Rook ys COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT / PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT l^ BY aKhyatt verrill CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS NEW YORK • 1915 Copyright, 1915, by CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS Published March, 1915 MAR 30 1915 (Dci,A3n8134 INTRODUCTION Whether civilized or savage, city-bred or living in the country, boys of every age and nation are fond of pets. The boy without a tame bird or animal of some sort is to be pitied, for in the companionship of a dumb creature lies a wonderful amount of pleasure, while affection, humanity, and love are fostered and developed to a great extent by caring for pets. A domesticated bird or animal, properly fed and cared for, is beyond a doubt far better off and far happier than its wild cousins, but if improperly treated and fed its lot is far from enviable. A great many pets no doubt suffer from dis- ease, mistreatment, and improper food, but in nearly every case this is due to lack of knowledge or mistaken kindness rather than to intentional cruelty on the part of the owner. Of course many boys, and grown-ups as well, are brutal or cruel by nature and seem to take supreme pleasure in teasing or maltreating the unfortunate birds and animals that come under their power. Such people would no doubt be just as cruel to children or to their fellow men and the fact that they are naturally unfitted to control any living thing is no reason for discouraging others from keeping pets. Unfortunately, there is a great dearth of books or pam- phlets treating of the care and rearing of pet birds and animals, and this book has been prepared with the purpose of filling this long-felt want. V vi INTRODUCTION Numerous handbooks have been written dealing with some one group or class of animals or birds, such as dogs, cats, pigeons, canaries, etc., but no general work containing full directions and rules for rearing, feeding, and caring for every kind of pet has hitherto been published. To many boys the unusual appeals most strongly, and for this reason the author has devoted a great deal of space to describing various beasts and birds that are seldom seen in confinement, but which are particularly adapted to life in captivity and make excellent pets. Some of these animals are regularly domesticated in their native lands but are never seen in our own country, save in menageries and zoological gardens; and yet their docility, intelligence, handsome colors, and interesting habits par- ticularly fit them for household pets. Others are of value mainly for large estates or for profit, and for this reason have been included, for it is a hard matter to draw the line between true pets and animals or birds reared for profit. Out of every flock or herd some in- dividual will develop unusual traits and intelligence and, whether chicken, goose, calf, or colt, a pet will be made of it. As a knowledge of natural surroundings, food, and habits are essential to the proper care and feeding of any foreign bird or animal, the author has given as much information on these matters as possible and the reader who is interested in natural history will find not a little valuable instruction in the descriptions of the wild birds and animals. During many years' experience as a naturalist and natural- history collector the author has had ample opportunity to study the dispositions and habits of animals, birds, and reptiles, and it is his firm conviction that there are very INTRODUCTION • vu few wild creatures which cannot be tamed and domesticated by kindness, and proper care and feeding. Some of our native animals and birds make splendid pets and yet are seldom seen in captivity, while foreign species of the same families are commonly domesticated. White mice and white rats, cats, dogs, squirrels, and rabbits are all favorites and yet the dainty deer-mice, wood-rats, flying squirrels, prairie-dogs, woodchucks, coons, coyotes, foxes, and the odd raccoon-fox of the southwestern States are far more interesting and become just as tame and affec- tionate in captivity. We are all accustomed to parrots, mina birds, and pigeons as pets, but bluejays, crows, nut- crackers, and other native birds are far easier to raise and are more interesting. Many of our native American wild fowl and ducks are particularly well fitted for domestication, and breed and in- crease readily in captivity, and with the increasing scarcity of our wild birds and animals it is of great importance to rear them in confinement, for only in this way can many species be prevented from disappearing completely from our land. Descriptions of all these native species suitable for rearing in a state of domestication are included in the work, with directions for their care and feeding. A great many of our native birds and animals can be pur- chased tame, from dealers in ornamental and fancy stock, but boys living in the country or outlying districts can usually obtain their stock by trapping or by rearing the young. The illustrations have been prepared with the object of showing the various birds and animals treated in the text, and, in the case of such domestic animals as rabbits, guinea- pigs, etc., the characteristics of the more noteworthy "fancy" viil INTRODUCTION varieties. The plans for cages, hutches, runs, and other enclosures have been drawn especially for this book and embody the very latest and most improved designs for their various purposes. Wherever possible, several different de- signs have been provided, in order that the reader may select the one best suited to his needs and surroundings. CONTENTS PART I — MAMMALS CHAPTER PAGE I. General Remarks and Suggestions . . i Hints on keeping pets. Choice of pets. II. Rabbits and Hares ii Care and housing. Feeding. Breeding. Diseases. Hares for market. Fancy rabbits. Wild hares and rabbits. III. Guinea-Pigs or Cavies and Their Rela- tives ... 29 Care and housing. Feeding. Breeding. Diseases Bolivian agouti cavies. Bolivian tortoise-shell cavies Bolivian Dutch-marked cavies. Peruvian cavies Abyssinian cavies. Animals related to the guinea-pig Agoutis. The pampas cavy. The paca. Capybaras Chinchillas. Viscachas. Porcupines. IV. Squirrels and Their Kin 43 Housing. Feeding. Care and breeding. Varieties of squirrels. Animals related to squirrels. V. Large Rodents — Woodchucks and Other Marmots 56 Woodchucks. Care and housing. Feeding. Habits. "Peter," the story of a pet woodchuck. Other mar- mots. VI. Rats and Mice 72 Tame rats and mice. Care, housing, and feeding. Wild mice and rats. Other rat-like creatures, ix CONTENTS VIl. Carnivorous Animals 82 Raccoons and their cousins. Care and housing. Feeding. The raccoon-fox. The coati. Kinkajous. The opossum. The bear. The story of a pet bear. Foxes and wolves. VIII. Dogs loi History and varieties. Care and housing. Feeding. Training. CleanUness. Diseases. IX. Cats and Catlike Animals 118 Domestic cats. Care and housing. Feeding. Breeds of cats. Diseases of cats. Wildcats. Other catlike animals. The hunting leopard. X. Monkeys and Monkey-like Creatures . 133 Uakaris. Capuchins. Marmosets. Old World mon- keys. Care and housing. Feeding. Diseases. Le- murs. XI. Ruminants and Hoofed Animals . . . 153 Deer. Antelope. The goat. Dwarf antelope. Pec- cary. Cony. PART II— BIRDS XII. Canaries 160 General care and cages. Feeding. Breeding. Breed- ing-cages and nests. Rearing the young. Diseases. Various breeds of canaries. The Saint Andreasburg canary. The Campanini Holden. The English ca- naries. The red canary. The gold-spangled lizard canary. XIII. Song and Ornamental Cage-Birds . . . 183 Cages and aviaries. Flying-cages. Training birds. The European goldfinch. The bullfinch. The sis- kin. The chaffinch. The linnet. Brazilian cardinal. The Java sparrow. Finches. Soft-billed birds. The nightingale. The blackcap. Skylark. Song-thrush. Blackbird. English robin. Japanese robin. Clarinos. Shama thrush. Mocking-bird. Troopial. Starling. Wax wing. CONTENTS XI XIV. Parrots and Talking Birds 216 Care and feeding. Training. Diseases. The African gray parrot. The green parrot. Dwarf parrots. Paroquets. Lories. Cockatoos. . Macaws. Toucans. Crows. Jays. Magpies. Motmots. The mynah. XV. Wild Birds 237 Care and feeding. Obtaining wild birds. Rearing young birds. Hawks and owls. Crows, ravens, and similar birds. Blackbirds. Sparrows. XVI. Game-Birds and Wild Fowl 249 Raising game-birds as pets. Pheasants. General care. Pens and runs. Handling new birds. Breed- ing. Hatching. Rearing the chicks. Feeding. Dis- eases. Diseases mainly affecting adult pheasants. Varieties of pheasants. Other game-birds. XVII. Water-Fowl and Wading-Birds .... 290 Habits and care. Wild ducks. Tree-ducks. Orna- mental and wild geese. Swans. Gulls and terns. Herons. Cranes. Storks. Flamingoes. Pelicans. Spoonbills. Cormorants. Ibis. Shore-birds. Galli- iiules. Screamers. XVIII. Doves and Pigeons 308 Common pigeons. Cage and breeding loft. Feeding. Nests. Wild doves and pigeons. PART III— AQUARIUMS AND REPTILES XIX. Fresh-Water Aquariums 321 Preparation. Animals and plants. Collecting the specimens. Care and feeding. XX. Salt-Water Aquariums 334 Preparation. Collecting the specimens. Care and feeding. Specimens of peculiar interest. XXI. Reptiles 347 Reptiles as pets. Lizards. Horned toads. Gila monsters. Alligators. Iguanas. Turtles. Snakes. ILLUSTRATIONS FACING PAGE / FACING PAGE Agouti 36 Goose, Egyptian . . . 300 r Avadavat 196 //^Gopher, Pouched ... 80 1/ Black Cap 210 j/Cjround-Squirrel,Thirteen- Capuchin ^\\ V Lined, or Spermophile . 46 ^ Capybara 36 i/Grouse, Sand 288 ^ Cardinal, Brazilian . . . 214 j/lSuereza 144 ^ Cat, Margay 130 t' Guinea-Pig, Abyssinian . 36 '^ Cavy, Patagonian . . . 36 »^Guinea-Pig, Bolivian . . li^ y Chachalaca 288 1/ Guinea-Pig, Dutch ... 36 ' , Chameleon, True . . . 354 v^Guinea-Pig, Peruvian . . 36-' . Chinchilla 36 U' Hamster 80 ^ Chipmunk 52 y'' Hawks, Young . Frontispiece ^ Chipmunk's hole, section /Hermit-Crab 344 iX* of 52 ^Hutch 24 l^ Civet 130 '^ Hutch, Breeding ... 24*^ Clam, Razor 340 ''^ Hutch, Movable, in tiers . 24^^ Coati 88 ^- inch mesh and at least 3 feet high above ground. The netting should be fastened to stout posts set into the ground to a depth of about 18 inches, and the netting for a space of 6 or 8 inches at the top and 18 inches at the bottom of the posts should be left free so that it may be bent or turned inward. The lower edge of 18 inches should be turned in and covered with at least 12 inches of earth to prevent the rabbits from digging under, and the upper edge of 6 inches should be bent in to prevent the creatures from climbing out. To secure the upper edge in position, cleats or brackets should be fastened to the posts. The enclosure should be provided with sleeping hutches or boxes and these may be any sort of stout, clean, wooden boxes with water-proof paper, linoleum, zinc, tin, or other material fastened over them to keep out the rain. The boxes should have sliding doors so that the rabbits may be RABBITS AND HARES 13 confined when desired, and small ventilation holes should be made near the tops. In addition, you should have a few regular breeding hutches for the does. When keeping rabbits in individual hutches, the hutches should be made of good, clean boards, and they should be large and roomy enough to afford space for the inmates to exercise. By having a number of hutches and placing them in tiers or rows, a large number of rabbits may be kept in a very small space. A very convenient form of indoor hutch is 6 feet by 2 feet by 2 feet, with a movable partition dividing off about one third of the space at one end for a nest and sleeping chamber. The partition should have a smooth hole for the inmates to pass back and forth from one part of the hutch to the other. The front of the hutch should have two doors, one of wire netting, the other of wood, the latter leading to the sleeping quar- ters; and this should be arranged to close very tightly. The dividing partition may be arranged to slide in and out in a groove between the doors, or it may be slipped in position through one of the doors, but it should always be removable in order that the hutch may be thoroughly cleansed. The floor should also be removable, or there should be a well-fitting tray placed over it. By using a sliding false floor above the real floor, the hutch may be easily cleaned. If outdoor hutches are desired they should have sloping roofs and eaves overhanging the ends and sides to keep out the rain, and the netting door should have a sliding wooden cover, or a curtain of cloth which may be 14 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT drawn over the netting in bad weather. In any case, ventilating holes at the top of the hutch should be provided, for it is just as necessary to ventilate your rabbit's room as your own. It is an excellent plan to use movable hutches which may be set out-of-doors in good weather and taken indoors in bad weather. By nailing cleats or handles to the ends of the hutches, they m^y be easily carried from place to place. If the hutches are furnished with a wire-netting floor and a sliding wooden floor is ar- ranged over this, the latter may be removed when the hutch is out-of-doors, and the rabbits can nibble at the grass that projects up through the netting. Another method is to use very simple netting-floored hutches out-of-doors, and the regular wooden-floored hutches for indoors. Where there are a number of hutches to be kept in tiers out-of-doors, the top hutch is the only one which will require a sloping water-proof roof. It is very important to keep the hutches clean and free from dampness, filth, and litter. Unclean hutches are disagreeable and slovenly and cause many rabbit diseases, and in addition the creatures become dirty, discolored, and odorous and are soon unfit for pets. Naturally, rabbits are very cleanly and neat animals, and it is both cruel and injurious to compel them to dwell in dirty quarters. Clean the cages daily and scrub off the floor boards with soap and water, and always remove all stale, decayed, or wilted food from the hutch. For bedding, hay, fine straw, or clean, dead leaves will answer; and for short-haired species. RABBITS AND HARES 15 clean sawdust may be used on the floors of the hutches. Hutches for long-haired species should never be sprinkled with sawdust, for this material becomes matted in the fur and ruins the coats of the animals; for such varieties use clean, soft hay. Hay of the proper kind may be readily made from the lawn clip- pings after mowing with a lawn-mower, but it should be thoroughly dry, sweet, and clean. The rabbits will nibble at the hay, but if sufficient food is furnished in the form of fresh vegetables, and if a layer of good oat straw is spread in the hutch, there will always be a soft, clean covering for the floor. Feeding No animal thrives as well on such a diversity of vegetables as the rabbit, but nine times out of ten pet rabbits suff'er from overfeeding. If kept in an open run or court the animals will have so much room for exercise that there is little danger of overfeeding, and as their appetites vary greatly, the only rule is to note the amount of food left over and reduce the amount given accordingly. In open runs, growing grass, a few shrubs or trees, and some quick-growing green foliage, such as crimson clover, vetch, or alfalfa, will provide green food for the rabbits to nibble when they are hungry. Rabbits should be fed twice a day, ordinary stock being fed morning and evening, and does with suckling young being given a noon meal in addition. The particular kind of food used depends more or less 1 6 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT on the season, the market, and the price of available vegetables. While a few staple foods are sufficient for rabbits, yet these animals are very adaptable to sudden changes of diet, and you can safely feed the particular vegetable which is cheapest and easiest to obtain. Even in winter rabbits require some green food. Cabbages, kale, spinach, turnips, beets, and mangels are all good and, while cabbages are used more exten- sively than any of the other green foods and are usually cheap, they are not particularly desirable, as they give the animals an unpleasant odor, and mangels or beets are far better; parsnips are also excellent. Hay should always be kept in the hutches or runs, and an occasional warm mash of cooked potatoes or clover leaves mixed with bran should be given. Whole crushed oats, bran, and other grains are also good in limited quantities. In cold weather a warm mash each evening is to be recommended, and now and then a little sulphur or some common flour mixed with the food will keep the animals from sufi^ering from loose- ness of the bowels. Rabbits require little drinking wa- ter when green food is abundant, but in warm weather or when dry food is fed there should always be pans of fresh, clean water within reach of the animals. Moreover, does with young should be given milk di- luted with one third warm water at least once a day, and in all cases a piece of rock-salt should be kept in the court or in each hut. Winter feeding should consist of green food or veg- etables in the morning and grain or whole oats in the RABBITS AND HARES 17 evening, the animals under three months old being given crushed oats with bran. In summer green food is the chief reliance, and all garden vegetables, clover, dandelion, plantain, dock, and other weeds, as well as green grass, should be given. Wet food should always be avoided; pluck or cut the clover or weeds in the afternoon when dry, and keep it under cover until feeding time if it looks like a shower or there is danger of dew reaching it. Young rabbits under three or four months of age should be fed rather sparingly with green food, for if given too much they will soon become pot-bellied, and if this symptom is noticed the use of green food should be immediately discontinued and the animals placed in an open run or enclosure, where they will have abundant exercise. Under these condi- tions, they will probably soon recover, but if not at- tended to, and green food is given, they will die in con- vulsions. Old rabbits are not, however, subject to this disease. Breeding Rabbits breed when very young, but for healthy, strong animals the does and bucks should be kept apart until at least six months old, and even ten months is considered advisable by many breeders. The old does may be mated in February, but young does are usually mated in March. The young will then be born in April when there is plenty of green food, and the mother will have an abundance of milk for them. 1 8 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT If the first litter arrives in April the doe should have about four litters a year, at intervals of about twelve weeks, with a longer rest in midwinter. The hutch for the breeding doe should be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected, and a good supply of soft hay and oat straw should be given the doe, so that she can build her own nest. Either an ordinary hutch with a nesting compartment may be used for breeding, or a special hutch may be furnished. Such a hutch should be about 2 feet long, i foot wide, and 10 to 12 inches deep, and it does not require a top or lid if indoors, but It should be placed in a corner where the mother will not be disturbed or troubled. Loose boards may be placed over the top and holes made for ventilation. In an outdoor run a breeding hutch may be made by cutting a hole large enough for the doe in a box about 18 inches square and 10 inches deep, and turning the box upside down. The doe will arrange her own nest in this a few days before the young are born, and when she commences to build the nest extra attention should be given to her food. Milk and warm water should be given regularly, and a pan of clean water should always be in the hutch. At this time and for several days after the young arrive great care should be taken not to frighten or startle the doe. Strange cats, dogs, or people should not be allowed near, and if you are obliged to touch or handle the hutch or nest, do so very slowly and carefull}^, and avoid any quick or sudden movement or noise. For the first week or two after having young the doe RABBITS AND HARES 19 should be fed almost entirely on warm bread and milk for the morning and evening meals, and with a little green food and fresh vegetables for a midday meal. The amount of green food may be gradually increased, and the milk and bread reduced, and a little boiled corn-meal mush should be given every day or two. The milk, mush, and all other soft foods should in- variably be placed in a separate dish of earthenware, and as soon as the food is eaten the dish should be removed and washed and scalded thoroughly. The young will begin to leave the nest in three or four weeks, and the box should then be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected and filled with fresh straw and hay. The young may be weaned when a month old, but it is better to let them remain with their mother for two or three weeks longer. Remove two young each day until they are all transferred to another hutch, which should be large enough to hold all the young rab- bits you raise. They will get along well together until three or four months old, when the does and bucks should be separated. A number of does will get along together in one hutch or run, but usually the bucks will fight unless kept singly. When breeding rabbits or hares it is a great advan- tage to have several litters of young at the same time, for oftentimes one mother may have ten or twelve young, which are more than she can care for, whereas another doe may not have over four or five. In such cases, the surplus from one mother may be transferred to a doe with few young, and in this way all may be 20 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT saved. Otherwise, all young in excess of six or seven should be destroyed soon after birth. Diseases If properly cared for, rabbits are very free from dis- eases, the most common ailments resulting directly from lack of care, improper ventilation, poor, insuffi- cient, or too much food, and unclean hutches. Such diseases as mange, scurf, surfeit, and eye disease, or ophthalmia are due to foul quarters. Cold snuffles and similar troubles arise through improper ventilation and sudden draughts of cold air when rabbits are kept in warm buildings. Many stomach and bowel troubles come from feeding too much juicy green foods to young rabbits, or from changing their diet too suddenly, as well as from feeding wet food. For pot-belly, constipa- tion, and other digestive troubles, plenty of exercise is the best remed}^, but severe constipation may be remedied by mush and other soft foods and a little castor-oil. For diarrhcea, a little dry barley meal or powdered acorns in skimmed milk are effective rem- edies. Ear canker, an incrustation of the ear, and ear-wax may be cured by washing off the crusts with lukewarm water and a soft sponge and applying powdered bo- racic acid. This should be repeated daily until cured completely. The most serious disease known to rabbits, especially in America, is coccidiosis, caused by an internal parasite, RABBITS AND HARES 2i and this trouble kills a great many young rabbits. The greatest care should be taken to prevent the in- troduction of this parasite, and hew animals should always be kept separated from your old stock until it is certain they are not affected. Where hutches are kept in tiers, the disease is very apt to spread if once introduced, although absolute cleanliness will do much to prevent it. Whenever a number of young rabbits which are well cared for become pot-bellied and show S3^mptoms of cold and snuffles, you may suspect that old rab- bits which are apparently healthy are suffering from chronic coccidiosis, and are expelling coccidia (para- sites) from their bodies. The first steps to be taken are to isolate the affected animals and their hutch and clean and disinfect it thoroughly. If the animals are badly affected it is best to kill them mercifully and not try to cure them unless they are extremely valuable. Hares for Market Although most rabbits in this country are reared as pets, yet they are very profitable animals to raise for the market. The small domestic rabbits are not in great demand for food in America, but in England they form a very large and important part of the diet of many people. So many are annually consumed in Great Britain that, in addition to the immense native supply, from ten thousand to twelve thousand tons are imported, mostly from Australia and New Zealand. 22 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT In America the wild rabbit is well known in the markets, and diirm«; the past lew years the Belgian Hare has been widely raised for market purposes. This animal is superior to the ordinary rabbit, is strong, hardy, and easy to raise. Although opinions differ as to the origin of the Belgian Hare, some holding it is mereh' a variet}' of the rabbit and others contending that it is a cross between the hare and the rabbit, there is little doubt that it originated in northern Europe, where for a very long time it has been raised extensively for food. Unfortunately, most of those who undertook to raise Belgian Hares in this country devoted more attention to producing fancy, pedigreed show animals than to developing a profitable business from market animals. The result was that Belgian Hares soon became a fad and the country went hare-mad, and when a reaction came this really superior food animal was soon neglected and, in many cases, given up entirely. Nevertheless, a great many people are to-day raising Belgian Hares for the market and are finding it a pleasant, eas}', and profitable business. The Belgian Hare is one of the most desirable ani- mals for table use and is probably superior to all other breeds of rabbits. It weighs more than other breeds, develops very rapidly, is prolific and ver\' hardy. The general care and feeding of the Belgian Hare are pre- cisely the same as for common rabbits, and at four months of age the young are ready for market and, if properly fed, should weigh six pounds or more. Hares mav be marketed either alive or killed and RABBITS AND HARES 23 dressed. In the former case they should be crated properly and shipped to market, and in hot weather this is by far the better plan. Moreover^ many people may object to killing or dressing the animals, and by shipping them alive this will be avoided. If the ani- mals are to be killed this may be done in two ways, either of which is practically painless and perfectly humane. The best method is to dislocate the neck. As it takes some little practice to do this properly, most amateurs will prefer to kill by a blow on the head. To dislocate the neck the animal should be seized by the hind legs with the left hand, the thumb of the right hand placed just behind the ears, where the neck joins the head, with the palm resting on the left side of the hare's head, and the fingers holding firmly under the jaws. The creature should then be quickly and sud- denly stretched out with considerable force, at the same instant pressing in with the right thumb and bending the head sharply back. The simpler and easier method is to hold the hare by the hind legs with the left hand and strike a sharp, hard blow on the back of the head with a round stick of hard wood. In either case, as soon as the rabbit is stunned or the neck dislocated, the jugular vein should be cut with a sharp knife, and the carcass hung head downward to bleed. The next step is to make a longitudinal incision with a sharp knife down the middle of the belly, being care- ful not to cut into the intestines but severing the skin and abdomen. The intestines, paunch, and other 24 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT viscera should then be drawn out, and the heart, Hver, and kidneys left in place. A slit should then be made between the tendon and the bone of one hind leg, the other leg slipped through the cut, and the carcass hung up until it stiffens. The bodies should be packed in a basket, hamper, or a well-made crate, or even in a barrel with ventilation holes. If a crate or basket is used, it should be pro- vided with slatted trays so that the hares may be sepa- rated in layers, but if a barrel is used each carcass may be wrapped in paper, and the rabbits packed in layers. The trays are far preferable, however, and the superior condition in which they reach the market \V411 usually result in an increase of price more than sufficient to pay for the time and trouble incurred and for the cost of the trays. If the market is not far distant arrange- ments may be made to have the empties shipped back to the breeder. Although it is impossible to state just what a person should realize from market rabbits, yet under usual conditions there should be a good margin of profit. Much depends on the distance to the market, the de- mand, and the cost of food. In England, where rabbits and hares are as common in the market as fowls, the prices paid for the dressed animals average from ten to twelve cents a pound. In America the price varies a great deal; but in many places from eighteen to twenty cents a pound is the price paid for dressed rabbits and hares. Usually better prices may be obtained by sell- ing direct to the consumer than to a marketman or -^ f i \ d 1 4 ; RABBITS AND RABBIT-HUTCHES. I. Lop-Ear. 2. Patagonian. 3- Himalayan. 4. Siberian. J. Japanese. a. Movable outdoor hutch in tiers. b. Breeding-hutch. c. Simple outdoor hutch. d. Post with netting for enclosure. e. A simple hutch. RABBITS AND HARES 25 commission merchant, but of course the demand is not as great. Sometimes definite arrangements may be made with hotels and restaurants as to price and quantity. Fancy Rabbits Although the ordinary English Rabbit is an excellent animal for a pet, yet some of the other "fancy" breeds will be found more attractive and interesting, and if kept in good shape and bred true to form and color they will sell readily. The care of these fancy breeds is much the same as for ordinary rabbits, but sev- eral of the varieties are rather delicate and must be kept indoors or in a very sheltered location in cold weather. Some of the most notable fancy varieties are the following : Lop-Ear This was at one time a great favorite with many people, both professional fanciers and amateurs, espe- cially in England. The breed is easily recognized by the long, soft, drooping or "lop" ears, which often reach an enormous size in pure-bred stock. Fourteen inches or more is not unusual for the length of each ear of this rabbit. The Lop-Ear is a rather large, "rangy" rabbit, usually of solid color. In breeding, those with uneven, stiff, or angular ears should be dis- carded, and only those with the longest, softest, and most perfect ears retained. 26 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT Patagonia7i This is a variety in which the ears are erect but bend sharply and at an angle near the tips. It is not often seen and should not be confused with rabbits having some "Lop-Ear" blood, and which have one ear drooping or bent, or have a partial curve or drop to one or both ears. Himalayan This is a very beautiful and striking breed of grace- ful, compact build, and distinguished by its peculiar color markings. Well-bred Himalayans have the nose, tail, ears, base of ears, with a small space on the head, and feet and legs pure black. The body should be white, but Himalayans with yellow, gray, brown, or orange bodies are sometimes seen. If well-marked, per- fect animals are desired great care must be used to dis- card all stock whose markings are "off color," uneven, or mixed with light hairs. Siberian This is a long, silken-haired variety, resembling the Angora in its coat but with the dark nose, ears, and feet of the last breed. It is a very attractive, pretty variety but must be carefully brushed and cared for if the coat is to be kept in good condition. Breeding does get on better if the hair is clipped fairly short, as otherwise it becomes matted and objectionable. RABBITS AND HARES 27 Japanese This is a curiously marked variety, distinguished by the even, tiger-Hke bands on the body and the dark nose and ears. Great care in breeding must be taken in order to keep the markings clear and distinct. Angora This is the commonest breed of long-haired rabbits, but the majority of so-called Angoras are nowhere near pure-bred. Practically any long-haired or semi- long-haired rabbit is classed by ordinary dealers as an "Angora." The true, pure-bred Angora is a very handsome and very troublesorne creature. The hair should be extremely long, very soft and silky, and the color uniform. The perfect Angora is snowy white, but Angoras of any solid color are very attractive. Many ordinary English Rabbits show tendencies to long or Angora-like fur, and in breeding either the common or the fancy breeds such individuals should be discarded. Angoras require frequent brushing, scrupulous cleanliness, and careful feeding to do well; for a mussed-up, dirty Angora rabbit is about as miser- able and unattractive a creature as one can find. Wild Hares and Rabbits All varieties of wild rabbits and hares may be raised in captivity and usually become gentle and affectionate. The little Cottontail, the Northern Hare, the Jack 28 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT Rabbits, and the Arctic Hares may all be raised for pets, and will usually breed in confinement. The food required by these creatures is practically the same as for tame rabbits, but fresh bark, grass, and green food is very important. The Arctic Hare will also eat moss and some kinds of evergreens and is very fond of young birch shoots and buds of trees. CHAPTER III GUINEA-PIGS OR CAVIES AND THEIR RELATIVES THE name of guinea-pigs so long applied to these little creatures is really misleading, for they are not related to pigs and did not originate in either Guinea or New Guinea. They are properly cavies, and though no naturalist can state definitely from what particular species they are descended, there is not the least doubt that they originated in Central or South America, where numerous wild varieties of their family still exist. Cavies are very easily reared and are so docile, quiet, good-natured, and neat that they are universal favor- ites with boys and fanciers. Although mainly used as pets, or for exhibition purposes, many people keep them to drive away rats and mice; for it is a common belief — apparently founded on fact — that rats and mice will not infest buildings or houses where cavies are confined. The commonest type, or breed, of cavy is a smooth- haired variety known as the English or Bolivian Cavy. These are found in a great variety of colors and are divided by fanciers into several distinct classes for ex- 29 30 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT hihition purposes. The most important are Bolivian Solt-Colored Cavios. Ihe main points in this variety are tlie huge head wirli an outward curve to the face, or "Roman nt)se"; fairl)' huge ears turned over at the upper edge and nearly bare of hair; short neck; deep, wide shoulders; broad back; and a plentiful, short, soft, glossy coat. The main point to be obtained is an absolutely e\en coloruig o( a single shade of red, cream, brown, black, or white. A single hair of an}' other color will disqualify this breed for prize contests, and only by constant care in breeding and the elimination of all parti-colored stock can good results be obtained. Cark and Housing Cavies require comparatively little space, for they are not particularl\' active creatures, but their hutches should be large enough to afford plent}' of space for moving freely about, and in good weather they should be placed in pens or boxes, with a w^ire-netting top and no bottom, which may stand on a plot oi' grass. Regu- lar feeding, cleanliness, and proper food and bedding are the most important points. While quite hardv, cavies should not be kept out-of-doors in cold weather but should be housed in a fairly warm building and given plenty oi' clean straw, although with the short- haired varieties, sawdust, peat, or dry sand will keep the hutches free from moisture and is easily replaced when dirty. Long-haired cavies frequently nibble each other's hair, and for this reason the Peruvians should GUINEA-PIGS OR CAVIES 31 be kept in separate hutches. The other varieties may be kept in hutches holding several individuals, but the does and bucks, over five or six weeks old, should be separated. Feeding Cavies v^ill eat almost anything of a vegetable nature; but they are often overfed or improperly fed, and it is a good rule to feed only the best and just enough. Sweet hay should be given morning and evening, and if a little hay is always in the hutch it will do no harm and will give the creatures something to nibble at. Hay should be placed in a rack within easy reach, for if scattered loose in the cage or hutch it will be trodden and soiled and oi no use as food. Bread and milk, squeezed almost dry, is good with the morning meal, as are also a few large oats. For the midday feed green food is advisable, such as plantains, water- cress, carrot tops, parsley, dandelions, chickory, and clover. Every few days a slight change in diet should be made, and the evening meal should regularly include a mixture of bran, meal, oats, barley, or rice made just moist enough to stick together. By a little experiment- ing you can soon determine just how much food snould be given at each meal, and you should try to give just enough to satisfy the animals without leaving any ap- preciable waste. Never place the food loose in the hutch, but set it in little dishes or pans with a broad bottom which cannot be readily upset. Cavies as a 32 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT rule do not drink much but depend upon the natural moisture in green food; but a Httle clean water should always be provided. Breeding Although cavies will breed at a very early age, the young will be stronger and better if the old ones are kept separated until eight or nine months old. Peru- vians used for breeding purposes should have the hair clipped quite short, as it is likely to become matted and dirty if not combed, and to do this when the doe has young is not advisable. Moreover, the long hair is a great impediment to the mother when nursing her young, and as breeding animals are not shown in ex- hibitions, the loss of hair is immaterial. The young cavies should be left with the mother for four or five weeks. Then they will begin to eat solid food, and during this time plenty of warm mash, bread and milk, and crushed oats should be fed. If you are raising stock for exhibition, the young that do not approach a standard should be disposed of for pets or to other breeders, and only the really good ones retained. Cavies are very prolific, and a great difficulty is in keeping down the stock and maintaining perfectly marked or standard individuals. In selecting does and bucks, or, as sometimes called, "sows and boars" for breeding, you should choose does having good size and coats and select the bucks which possess the best characters lacking in the does, such as color, form, eyes, etc. GUINEA-PIGS OR CAVIES 33 Diseases Cavies are free from all vermin and are not at all subject to disease or parasites of any kind. Snuffles, pot-bellies, loose bowels, and epileptic fits are sometimes met with, however. These troubles are caused mainly by lack of cleanliness, improper food, or sudden changes in temperature and should be cured as far as possible by natural means. Less food, especially green food, and more exercise will usually remedy a "pot-belly," while even temperature and plenty of warm bedding will cure colds or "snuffles." Fits usually result in death but can be avoided by not overfeeding with rich food. Bolivian Agouti Cavies This is a well-marked variety of the common cavy in which the short, glossy hair is a beautiful silver-gray, with black "tickings" through the hair and known as "Silver-Grays," or else the color is rich golden-yellow beneath, with black "tickings" over the head, legs, and feet. This form is known as the "Golden Agouti" and is a very handsome and attractive variety. Bolivian Tortoise-Shell Cavies To stand a chance of prize winning this type should have but three colors — red, black, and yellow — and while the colors may be arranged in any pattern or proportion, they should be sharply defined and should 34 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT never blend or mix. White spots or patches should not be permitted, for the animals thus marked belong in another class, known as "Tortoise-Shells and Whites." These should, as a rule, have less white than tortoise-shell colors, and the white markings should be as regular and evenly distributed as possible. Bolivian Dutch-Marked Cavies These are cavies in which white with red, black with white, yellow with white, or similar colors are dis- tributed much in the same manner as a Dutch-marked rabbit, or, in other words, in heavy, regular blotches, with distinct, sharp edges. Specimens marked un- equally on both sides will not prove prize winners but may be excellent to breed from. Interesting and lovable as are the common Bolivian Cavies, other more fancy varieties are even more at- tractive. Prominent among these are the Peruvians and Abyssinians, neither of which names have any- thing to do with the native country of these little creatures, which are merely varieties or breeds of the commonplace guinea-pig. Peruvian Cavies These are very striking-looking creatures when well bred, and the greatest difficulty is often found in dis- tinguishing head from tail, so heavily covered and completel}^ concealed are the little fellows by the enor- mously long, silky hair. Peruvians are not so hardy as GUINEA-PIGS OR CAVIES 35 the Bolivians and require daily brushing to keep their coats in good condition. The best way to accomplish this is to hold the cavy on the palm of the left hand and brush the hair with a common hair-brush. A wire brush or comb should never be used for this purpose. This is a breed particularly well adapted for rearing by girls, and many of the best prize winners in this class have been exhibited by girls. The main point to be gained in the Peruvian Cavy is a broad, flattish body and very long, silky, abundant hair, which should touch the ground on the sides and trail behind and should completely cover the face, much as in the Yorkshire terrier. Color is of little im- portance, for they are shown in blacks, blues, grays, white, yellows, browns, and in various combinations of these colors. Abyssinian Cavies This is considered the hardiest variety of all cavies, and they are so odd and peculiar in appearance that every cavy fancier should raise them. While the coat of a Peruvian should be as silky as possible, the hair of an Abyssinian should be as harsh or rough as pos- sible. Secondary to the harshness of the fur is the matter of "rosettes." These are little circular, star- like growths of hair dotted all over the head and body, which give the rumpled and brushed-the-wrong-way effect. The short, bristly hair on the face and lips gives this breed the appearance of being quite fero- cious, but in reality they are as gentle and quiet as 36 PETS FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT any other variety. Color in this breed is not impor- tant, although the sohd or "self" colors and tortoise- shells are very attractive. Animals Related to the Guinea-Pig Although the original ancestor of the domestic guinea-pig is not known with certainty, yet there are many species of cavy-like creatures found wild in trop- ical America, and nearly all of these are easily tamed and become as gentle and affectionate as the true guinea-pig. There are also quite a number of animals closely related to guinea-pigs, yet very different in appearance and in their habits, which are, nevertheless, subject to practically the same treatment, feeding, and housing. While these various unusual animals are not always to be found in the stores of animal dealers or fanciers, yet now and then you may come across one of them, and sailors returning from voyages often bring such things home. As out-of-the-way pets always attract attention and are interesting, it is advisable to secure such specimens when you can, especially if you raise other animals such as guinea-pigs, rabbits, squirrels, etc. As a rule, all these creatures are low in price, for comparatively few dealers know anything of their habits or needs and are glad to get rid of them. There is no trouble in disposing of them to zoological gardens or menageries if in good condition, should you wish to do so, and in the meantime you can learn a lot about their habits and peculiarities; while if they ^^^f^/i^e^^^. I' Mi'. GUINEA-PIGS OR CAVIES. p^t-a 4- Capybara. Patagonian Cavy. S- Chinchilla. Varieties of Guinea-Pigs— 6. Agouti. a. Bolivian, b. Dutch.