The City of New York F 128 .3 .B883 Copy 1 Henry Caliios Brovn Oass FlZii Cop}Tiglit]sI^. Ci)FmiGHT DEPOSm The City of New York By Henry Collins Brown It SIXTY-FIFTH THOUSAND J. M. RusTON, Publisher 531 West 37th Street, New York 1917 .3 Pictures and Text Copyright, 1915 H. C. Brown, N. Y. Copyright, 1917 J. M. Ruston "Mo -" ©CI,A4752!)8 J . F. Tr.pley Co. New York OCT 3 1917 / City of Ships By Walt Whitman City of ships ! (O the black ships ! O the fierce ships 1 Otlie beautiful, sharp-bow' dsteamshipsandsail ships !) City of the world ! ( For all races are here ; All the lands of the earth make contributions here) ; City of the sea ! city of hurrieii and glitteringtides ! ^City whose gleeful tides continually rush or recede, . >• whirling in and out, with eddies and foam ! 'City of wharves and stores; city of tall facades of ^ marble and iron I j|ilProud and passionate city ! mettlesome, mad extrava- l^ gant city ! Spring up, O city ! not for peace alone, but be indeed yourself, warlike ! Fear not 1 submit to no models but your own, O city ! Kehold me ' incarnate me, as I have incarnated you ! I have rejected nothing you offered me — whom you adopted, I have adopted; Good or bad, I never question you — I love all — I do not condemn anything ; I chant and celebrate all that is yours— yet peace no more ; In peace I chanted peace, but now the drum of war is mine ; War, red war, is my song through your streets, O city! Pitblished by Pertnission of David McKay, Philadelphia The rare Old Prints are from the Private Collections of: Mr. Robert Goelet Mr. Percy R. Pyne, 26. Mr. J. Pierpont Morgan Mrs. Robert W. Deforest Mr. A. Van Home Stuyvesant Mr. Herbert L. Pratt Mr. Simeon Ford Mr. N. F. Palmer Mr.R.T. H.Halsey Mr. J. Clarence Davies Mr. Robert E. Dowling Mr. John N. Golding ( Mr. John D. Crimmins Mr. Henry Morgenthau New York Historical Society and others. Foreword In the pages which follow an attempt has been made, in a highly condensed form, to give a history of our wonderful City and to include many items of an unusual character which will serve to give the stranger, as well as the New Yorker, some idea of its early beginnings as well as the present complex organization, which goes to make up the chief City of the New World. New York grows so rapidly and changes so quickly, that special interest will attach to the many rare and valuable old prints which adorn these pages, and which serve to im- part an interest and a charm all their own. Many of them are now so rare as to be practically inaccessible to the ordinary reader; in some cases only one or two copies are known to exist. They recall a New York, of a more modest and perhaps more lovable period, — when many of our down town streets were still tree embowered and little red brick houses of two and a half stories were the rule and not the exception. In striking, contrast to these gentler times, are the cloud piercing sky- scrapers, the many storied cliff dwel- lings, and the rushing subways of t j-day. Many readers we know, will thank us for preserving these half forgotten scenes of 3'esterday and not a few will recall them with affec- tionate, personal interest. To the sentimental side of our little work we have also added much prac- tical information for the use of visitors. It ought to make a desirable memento of New York for many occasions. A much more important volume of "Old New York" is now ready and will be sent for inspection on request. Elsewhere due acknowl- edgement is made of the source of our pictures. H. C. B. 6 Table of Contents Page A Short History of New York 17 to 63 New York in the Revolution 51 New York in the Nineteenth Century . . 63 Curious Facts about New York 85 Greater New York's Total Assessed Valuation 97 How to See the City 99 Residences of Prominent People 117 Famous Churches in Nev/ York 121 St. Paul's Chapel 125 The Custom House 139 The Statue of Liberty 143 Our Wonderful Bridges 145 Statue of George III 149 Some Extra Valuable Sites 153 Personal Tax List 155 Governor's Island 159 Ellis Island 161 Union Square 1 63 Madison Square 165 Fire Boats 169 The City Hall 171 India House I77 Street Car and Subway Systems 181 The Restaurants of New York 183 Something about Skyscrapers 187 What transient Visitors Spend 197 New York Clearing House 203 7 Page The Chamber of Commerce 205 The Titanic Memorial Lighthouse 209 Where Washington took Farewell of his Officers 211 The Shopping Districts 213 How to Save Time Seeing the City. . . . 225 Five Boroughs Constitute the City of New York 233 Old Castle Garden 235 The City's Office Building 237 Highest Priced Real Estate in New York239 Leading Hotels in New York 243 Laying Out the City in 1807 249 Beginnings of Free Education 251 Old Merchants of New York 253 Beginning of the Telephone 265 The Swamp 271 N. Y. Historical Society 279 The Aquarium 279 Recreation Piers 275 Brooklyn Borough 285 Leading Hotels 243 List of Illustrations Page First View of New York i6 Second View of New York i8 The Government House, 1790 ._. 20 Old "Steamship Row", 1890 22 Present Custom House, Bowling Green. 24 Washington Square as Parade Giound, 1853 26 Corner Broadway and Canal St., 1835 . . 28 Burning of Barnum's Museum, 1868.. . . 30 The Peter Goelet House, Broadway and 19th St., 1893 32 01d_ Gilbert Elevated Road, Green- wich St 34 Fraunce's Tavern 36 Chatham Square opp. the Park 1853. . . 38 First Home of the Union Club 40 Street Cleaning Department, 1861 42 Parade of the "White Wings", 1014. . . 44 The Middle Dutch Church as the Post Office 46 Trinity Church, 1848 48 The Woolworth Building -50 Castle Garden until 1880 52 Old John St. Methodist Church, 176S. . 54 View of Wall St.. 184s 56 Statue of George III which stood in Bowling Green , 58 9 Page St. Peter's Church, Barclay and Church Sts., 1831 60 St. George's Chapel in Beekman St., 1831 62 The City Hall, built in 181 2 64 Nathan Hale Statue 66 The "Bread Line" 68 Residence Clement C. Moore, 23rd St., and Qth Ave., 1831 70 Grace & Trinity Churches at Rector St. and Broadway, 1831 72 Broadway and Cortlandt St., 1853. ... 74 No. 26 Broadway. 1848 76 Chemical Bank, 1831 78 Waddel Mansion, Cor. sth Ave., 3Sth St. 80 Lord & Taylor's Stoie, 1826 82 R. H. Macy's First store, 1853 84 Broadway from 59th to 46th St., looking south in 1868 86 Foot of Fulton St., 1828. . ._ 88 Union Square looking south in 1820. . . yo Union Square in 1853 looking north. . . 92 The old Reservoir on Sth Ave. — 40th to 42nd St 94 The Bunker 'Mansion, 39 Broadway (Washington's home) 96 Bank of Manhattan Co., Broadwav, Bowery & 17th St., 1823 '. . 98 Broad St., 1790 loo W. & G. Post's Paint Store, 160 Water St., 1756 102 10 Page Colgate and Company in Dutch Street, 1816 104 Historic Claremont, Riverside Drive and 1 26th St 106 New York's First Hospital 108 St. Paul's Church and Broadway stages, 1831 no Fulton Ferny established^ by Robert Fulton and William Cutting in 1814. . 112 The Astor House in 1834 114 St. Patrick's Cathedral at Mott and Prince Sts 116 Bridge at Broadway and Fulton St., 1868 118 The Flat Iron Building, cor. of 23rd St. and Broadway 1 20 Looking north, Broadway from Trinity Church 122 Clinton Hall cor. Beekman and Nassau Sts., 1831 124 The Poe Cottage 126 Washington's Headquarters, the Jumel Mansion 128 First Home of Borden's Condensed Milk Co., Hudson St., 1S60. _. 130 Beginning of the Traffic Squad in 1868. 132 Gramercy Park, Residence Cyrus W. Field ._ 134 A Modem Ocean Steamship 136 The Merchants' Exchange, 1831 138 II Page Steamboat Wharf, Whitehall St., show- ing U .S. Barge Office and pier, etc. , 1 83 1 1 40 Chuich of the Ascension in Canal St., 1831 142 General Theological Seminary, 21st St., between 9th and loth Aves 144 A Modern Sound Steamer between New York and Boston 146 Dr. Tyng's Chapel, Madison Ave., 42nd St., 1864. 148 Statue of Liberty 150 Wall St., looking west to Trinity Church, 1796 152 Equitable Building, Broadway 154 Our New Municipal Building 156 Cathedral of St. John the Divine 158 New York Hippodrome, 6th Ave., bet. 43rd and 44th Sts 160 Famous Retail Establishments: B. Altman & Co., Franklin Simon & Co., John Wanamaker, R. H. Macy & Co., Lord & Taylor, A. Jaeckel & Co., Gimbel Brothers, Best & Co., Mark W. Cross Co., Arnold & Hearn, Stern Bros., etc., etc. , etc. ; also Public Buildings, Hotels, Depots, etc. . . 162-288 The Chamber of Commerce 170 Printing House Square, i860 172 Grant's Tomb, Riverside Drive and 123rd St 176 12 Page Broadway bet. Barclay St. and Park Place. 1831 180 Broadway from No. I to Rector St., 182s 182 Where Stanford White Lived 186 Leonard Jerome's House, First home of the Union League Club, i860 188 Corner Fifth Ave. and 23rd St 192 A. T. Stewart's residence, cor. 5th Ave. and 34th St., 1873 196 Hotel Manhattan, comer Madison Ave. and 42nd St 198 . Broadway looking north, showing St. Paul's Church, etc 200 The Steamer Washington Irving . . . . 202 Block on Broadway bet. Cortlandt and Liberty Sts., 1914 204 Lower Wall St. about 1790 212 Murrav St., Dr. Mason's Church, 1825. 216 Steinway and Sons first Piano Factory as it stood in Walker St.. 1858 218 The Little Church Around the Corner on 28th St 224 H. Lindenmeyr & Sons' old store 226 U. S. Branch Bank, Wall St., two doors east of Nassau 232 The old "Cow Catcher " cor. Broadway and 23rd St 234 Penn. R. R. Station, 7th and 9th Aves. between 31st and 33rd Sts 246 13 Page New Home Roger's Peet & Co., 5th Ave. near 42nd St 248 Madison Ave. and 40th St., in 1914, The Anderson Galleries 252 Phenix Bank, 45WallSt., erected 1812. 2^4 The Vanderbilt Hotel 258 Arnold & Hearn's store in Canal St., 1826 264 U. S.Sub. Treasury, Wai:St 266 Metropolitan Tower 268 The Curb Market, Broad St 270 Wall St. looking west, 191S 274 The Stock Exchange 278 Where Telephoning began 280 College of the City of New York 282 The Singer Building 284 The Citv of New York CHAPTER The Beginning HE was born — no one knows where or when. He died — no one knows when or how. He comes into our knowl- edge on the quarterdeck of a ship bound for the North Pole. He goes out of our knowledge in a crazy boat manned by eight sick sailors." So writes one historian of Hendrik Hud- son, whose name is first identified with New York. He appears to have vanished into nothingness when his great work was done. Even his portraits and autograph are not generally believed tu be genuine. No one knows his age at the time he made his dis- coveries. That he was of mature years is shown by his havmg an eighteen-year old son. But whether he was a hale manner 4, ; m 1' ~^Utl \ 1 1 'ji 1 K of forty or a grizzled veteran of seventy has never been guessed. He was born, i t seems, in England, some time in the sixteenth cen- tury. His name was Henry Hodgson, but his Dutch employers later twisted the Eng- lish phraseology into "Hendrik Hudson." Hisfather and grandfather are supposed to have been London merchants. Hudson had made two attempts to find the Northwest passage, both unsuccessful. This caused the company to abandon further work along this line, and as an explorer Hudson seemed a failure. Justwhenit looked as if he would sink into oblivion the Dutch West India Company gavehim the opportunity_ of his life, and by his immortal voyage i n the Half Moon to the mouth of the great river which now bears his name, he achieved un- dying fame as one of the great discoverers of the world. _ For his perilous journey, in the frailest of frail crafts, Hudson received the munificent sura of $320. In case he never came back the directors of the company agreed to pay his widow a further sum of S80 in cash. The announcement of Hudson's discov- ery created intense interest in Europe, and other expeditions were hastily planned. Conspicuous among those who followed, was Adrian Block in the "Tiger". His vessel burned to the water's edge off the 19 . ffl:Ss^ Battery, and as a result, his crew enjoyed the distinction of being the first white men to actually settle on Manhattan Island, albeit that was not their original intention. They landed at where 39 Broadway now is and erected some rude structures wherein to pass the Winter of 16 13-14. In some miraculous manner, considering the utter absence of tools, etc.. Block and his men contrived to build another boat called the "Restless", in which Block explored all the neighboring harbors and the Sound and located a trading place where Hartford now stands. Lower Broadway is, therefore, not only the scene of the first occupation by white men of Manhattan Island, but is also entitled to the credit of being the site of the first shipyard in New York. Curiously enough, a great transaltantic , steamship office now occupies the same corner. Notwithstanding Block's really wonderful and valuable contributions to the knowledge of a little known land, no particular honor has ever been accorded his discoveries, and but for the naming of an obscure island at the end of the Sound, the importance of his labors would probably have been long ago forgotten. One reason for this apparent neglect, may be found in the fact that no journal of his visit to New Netherland has come down to the present generation, and hence his own account of his discovenes and experiences is lost to us. He returned to Holland bearing peltries and other evidences of the wealth of the new country, and great- ly enhanced the value of Hudson's original discovery; he was instrumental in organ- izing the New Netherland Company. The Dutch being in a cold climate, were quick to realize the value of the furs, skins, etc., of this new country and in October of that yeai, the States-General issued letters patent to a company of Amsterdam mer- chants, granting them the exclusive privilege of trading with this new land for a period of three years — "That they shall be privileged exclusively to frequent or cause to be visited the newly discovered lands situate in Amer- ica between New France and Virginia, whereof the sea coast lies between the for- tieth and forty-fifth degree of latitude, now named Nieu Netherland." Reference was specifically made to this territory which was then spoken of for the hrst time as "Nieu Netherland". The tercentenary of this event is celebrated this year (1914). Under the charter just spoken of. New York en- tered formally into the commerce of the world. Trading between Old Amsterdam and the New continued to increase, although in a desultory fashion. It was not until some years later that 23 actual steps were taken to occupy the island and people it with permanent settlers. This was first accomplished by a contingent of Walloons who came from Holland in 1623 under the patronage of some wealthy direct- ors of the newly formed West India Com- pany, to whom larpe grants of land were made conditional upon their being col nizei by fifty persons or more. They settled in Pavonia and along the shores of the Hudson, principally in the neighborhood of Albany and beyond. Two families and six men went up the Fresh River (Connecticut), landed where Hartford now stands and began to build Fort Good Hope. Another party was taken to the South River, founded Fort Nassau near the present Gloucester, N. J., and eighteen families, the largest band, set- tled Fort Orange, present city of Albany. These Walloons were not strictly speaking Holland Dutch, but came originally from Belgium. It was not until 1626 that the formal settlement and occupation of Man- hattan Island was accomplished by the Dutch. In that year Peter Minuit, repre- senting the West India Company, arrived and after some parley with the Indians, finally bought the site from them for some trinkets valued at 60 guilders, about S24.00. It seemed_ an insignificant matter at the time, but in view ( f the subsequent devel- 25 opments, it stands today as one of the most important and far reaching bu iness trans- actions ever recorded. Nevertheless, bo h the States-General and the West India Company vastly underrated the value of Amsterdam in New Netherland, as it was officially termed. Consequently, through no fault of the settlers themselves, the Dutch occupation of New York cann't by any stretch of friendly imagination be re- garded as financially successful. Between 1626 and 1 664, the population scarcely num- bered ISOn, from which must be deducted a not inconsiderable proportion of English, French, Swedes, Germans, Portuguese, bondmen and slaves, leaving the actual Dutch population almost in the minoritj^ In this respect it may be compared with the settlement of the Pilgrims in Plymouth, which after ten years of struggle, contained less than 300 souls, while Boston and the neighboring_ settlements had risen to over 50,000 within the same period. It was of the greatest importance, however, not so much for what it actually accomplished as for what was to follow as the result of these pioneer efforts. The remarkable personality of Governor Stuyvesant undoubtedly served to give a character and standing of such a high order socially and politically, as to place the Dutch regime for all time in an enviable position. He had served his coun- try well as a gallant soldier in the Low Countries and as Governor of Curacoa, and at the time of his advent in New York, wore a wooden leg with silver bands in place of the one he lost during an attack on the Portuguese island of St. Martin. He dress- ed with scrupulous care after the most ap- proved European fashions. He bore himself with a princely air and made a strikingly picturesque figure. Prior to this, he had married in Holland, Judith Bayard; his sister Anna married Nicholas Bayard, his wife's elder brother. The latter died soon after, and Stuyvesant was accompanied to the new home by his wife and his sister and the latter's three infant sons. All these were of the ruling classes in Holland, and were highly educated according to the standards of the day. Although he was harshly treat- ed by the West India Company for his sur- render of New York, he never lost his in- terest and afTection for the little settlement oyer which he once ruled. Returning to his farm in the Bouwerie in 1667, after his visit to Holland, he went into retirement and spent his remaining years in the inter- est of the Dutch Church, having erected a chapel near the house on his farm, beneath which he built a vault, where he was buried in February, 1672. His widow, dying in 29 i68 7, left the chapel to the Dutch Church. According to the terms of the bequest, the vault was preserved, although the chapel was allowed to fall into ruin. St. Marks was_ erected on the site in 1799. From time to time his descendants are laid beside him. In the wall of the Second Avenue side of this sacred edifice can be seen the stone tablet marking his last resting place which reads as follows: "In this vault lies buried Petrus Stuyvesant Late Captain-General and Governor in Chief of Amsterdam in New Nether- 1 and, now called New York, and the Dutch West India Islands. Died Feb- ruary A. D. 1672, aged 80 years." On another page is shown a picture of this famous church at the corner of Second Avenue, lothto nth Streets, which is still attended by many of our oldest families. On his return from his last visit to Hol- 1 and, of which we have spoken, Stuyvesant brought a pear tree which he planted on his farm. It survived and bore fruit for over two hundred years. It stood on the north- east comer of Third Avenue and 13th Street, where a tablet (on the wall of the buildmg now standing there) has been placed by the Holland Society of New York commemorating the site. When it finally succumbed to a particularly vicious ■=<'orm 31 in February, 1867, the whole town felt a personal loss. No other landmark was so universally known or loved. A small por- tion of this famous tree has been preserved and may be seen in the rooms of the New York Historical Society, 76th to 77th Streets, Central Park West. Disputes between the Dutch and English over territorial rights were ceaseless. It must be remembered that during the entire period of Dutch occupation, the English claimed that they were intruders, and that all the country between \'irginia and Maine belonged to them by right of Captain John Smith's discoveries. The Dutch claimed all the land lying between Cape Cod on the north, and the Delaware River on the south. Curiously enough a strange sur- vival of this period still remains in New York — the Hudson River is yet referred to by the people of the city as the "North" River, while as a matter of fact it lies direct- ly west, as the Delaware River was referred to as the " South''^— and this ancient desig- nation is the origin of our present curious localism. What we call the East River is not a river at all, but an arm of the sea, although it does lie directly east of the city, and is correctly designated geographi- cally. In 1664 matters between the Dutch and 33 tbe English reached a climax, and the Eng- lish seized the city, naming it after the Duke of York, brother to the reigning Eng- lish monarch, King Charles II. The English showed vast wisdom in ruling the new addi- tion to their possessions. With a few ex- ceptions most of the Dutch Burgomasters, schepens and other officials, who under the English rule became the aldermen and sheriffs, were continued in power, and on the whole, the administration of the English was a decided improvement over the policy of the Dutch West India Company. The loss of this colony made a final ending of the Corporation, which had already lost enormous sums in the enterprise; thence- forth, with the exception of about ten months in 1673, New York remained exclu- sively and continuously under the English until the Revolution. That the Dutch char- acter and Dutch influence has endured and is important, is a high tribute to the splendid character of the founders of our city, no less than to the general willingness of the Eng- lish to let the original settlers preserve their identity and to pursue their political and religious desires unmolested. Strangely enough the English who captured New York were evidently of a different mold from those who peopled New England. Liberahty and tolerance in religion and 35 politics was the first agreeable surprise which greeted the Dutch. The Protestant Episcopalian service was, of course, at once introduced. The chaplain of the English forces had, however, no proper place in which to celebrate divine service except in the Dutch Church in the Fort. It was very cordially arranged therefore that after the Dutch had ended their own morning wor- ship in the church, the British chaplain should, in the afternoon, read the Church of England service to the governor and the garrison. The same church, therefore, did duty for both. Later the English erected their own edifice — beloved old Trinity — in 1696, and the Dutch continued to do just as they always had done. In fact, the Eng- lish did little or nothing to disturb the Dutch, and although in England the two governments were occasionally at war, the people themselves preserved a friendly feeling and found that in the new country, erstwhile enemies were not such bad neigh- bors, and each learned tolerance from the other. The same was true of the French Huguenots, another important element in these early days. The Dutch tongue was continued in churches for many years, but in a community where already no less than eighteen languages were spoken, it soon became a matter of public convenience to 37 adopt the language spoken by the major- ity — and English finally became the uni- versal tongue. On June 15th, 1665, the English organized their court, and established trial by jury. The city records were kept partly in Eng- lish, but chiefly in Dutch, until 1673. For many years, however, all ordinances, public notices, etc., were printed in three lan- guages — Dutch, French and English, in order to be understood by the average in- habitant. The French language enjoyed the distinction of being used otficially at times, together with the Dutch. From the very beginning. New York has always been a city totally diff'erent from any other in the Union, and in another and equally important respect, it is today what it has been from the very beginning — a cos- mopolitan town. There has never been a time from its inception to the present, when its population did not include repre- sentatives from every section of the globe. Writing in 1646 of his visit to New Nether- land in 1643, the French missionary — Rev. Isaac Joguessaid: "On the island Man- hate, and in its environs, there may well be four or five hundred men of different sects and nations; the Director General told me that there were men of eighteen different languages." 39 'r^ "? ^' i ^ 1 S t f, Hi ; ' f "r— ' s. <-i ' n r ^ Rlii ,fyi!'»^*'' ,J|: First Hoino of T'nion Club, Broadway, 1831. (No. 34.6) opcL^J in 18J0. In that respect we have not only main- tained this ancient record, but have added to it materially. Its present huge foreign population is nothing at all unusual or new. Even that period of nearly one hundred and fifty years, during which practically no im- migration reached these shores whatever except from Great Britain, New York at- tracted what few foreigners were received. While the English at first showed great wisdom in the liberal treatment of the Dutch, the Duke of York soon caused a radical change in the administration of local affairs, and in a short time the Crown had assumed all the functions of government, and representatives of the people had no actual voice whatever. Naturally this gave rise to great dissatisfaction, but in 1683 Governor Dongan, afterwards the Earl of Limerick, an Irish Catholic, a favorite of the King, secured a charter for the City of New York, granting some of the reforms demanded and introducing an assembly in which there was some real power exercised by the people. Here again we come upon an exhibition of New York's characteristic liberality. _ In the colonies at that time. Protestantism was considered not only essen- tial, but an actual condition of existence, and yet here we have a Catholic providing the first popular assembly in New York. 41 Charles 11 died in 1685 and the Duke of York succeeded. Almost his first act was to revoke the Dongan charter and abolish popular government. Two years later he decided to consolidate all the colonies into one Province under one governor. To carry out this plan Governor Andros, with head- quarters in Boston, was placed in supreme command. New York felt deeply slighted by this change, and its material prosperity was thought to be seriously threatened. In 1689 however, England deposed King James who fled to France. Andros was placed in jail in Boston; William and Mary were pro- claimed the successors of James, and again a new order of affairs began for America, At this time occurred an event of the great- est importance — the martyrdom of Jacob Leislerand his son-in-law, Jacob Milbourne. Leisler was a merchant, born in Frank- fort, Germany, the son of a German clergy- man, and at the time of which we speak, enjoyed considerable prominence in the city. His farm was situated just west of the City Hall, his house being near the site of the present World Building. Frank- fort Street was subsequently named for his native city, and Jacob Street after his son- in-law. As I have already stated, the flight of King James and the imprisonment of Andros gave a great impetus all through 43 ::jg[ c ^^ .• .i- J^H c ^ J^i i h^^m o ^r -::'::.' ' 'mE^J^ s F »l'5«*" OT ^^^Hv "^^'^^^^PIH 1 -S^Ktr P3i| c. . '^-^^^^^K\, ^ "^A^^nfl^ H .<$^Kjr ^ 'fSI "o •a (2 ^..^S^ the colonies for a larger and fuller measure of popular government. Nicholson, govern- or under King James_, had gone to Eng- land, and during the interval pending the arrival of the new governor, to be ap- pointed by King William, there arose in New York an emphatic demand for a party devoted to this greater freedom. In response to a general request, Leisler consented to lead this popular party, and in the absence of any direct representative of the Crown, assumed control of the gov- ernment. He acted under a letter received from King WilUam addressed to Nicholson — "or in his absence to stick as for the time bein^, take care for preserving the peace and administrating^ the laws of our said Province of Ne^a York in America." This letter was delivered to Leisler as the successor of Nicholson, who was then in England. It bore date of July 30, 1689, and ordered the recipient to take command of New York. It was from the authority of this letter that Leisler took control and based all his sub- sequent actions. Nicholson having the ear of the King, chose to place an entirely wrong construc- tion on all the acts of Leisler, and to im- pugn him with personal motives, and as- cribed his activities to a desire to add to his own personal following. Unfortunately, 45 the King believed this, and in due time ap- pointed Col. William Sloughter governor, who sailed from England in 1690. Upon his arrival in New York, the enemies of Leisler — the aristocratic party, headed by- Bayard, Philipse, Van Cortlandt, and other representatives of the moneyed class, seized Leisler and his son-in-law, and caused them to be put to death by hanging, the first and only men ever to suffer the death penalty in New York for a political offense. The gal- lows stood about wherethe present site of the Tribune Office now is, on Leisler's own farm. Here perished the_ first Governor of New York who drew his power directly from the people. Two years later the son of Jacob Leisler, prosecuted the appeal which had been de- nied his father, secured an order for the restoration of his confiscated estate and in 1698 obtained an act from the Eng- lish Parliament which completely rehabil- itated the dead man's memory. This act cancelled the judgment of the court in New York, sustained Leisler's course as governor, and declared that he had been confirmed in the power that the people had bestowed upon him by the King's letter of July 30, 1689. Three years later the bodies of Leisler and Milbourne were taken from their resting places, and after 47 Trinity Churi Torn down in IS-lo for present lying in state in the City Hall, were, with impressive ceremonies, reinterred in a burial ground which is now Exchange Place. Un- fortunately, no man knows their present sepulchre. A monument to his memory was erected in New Rochelle, N. Y.,in 1913, by the Daughters of the Revolution, but none has yet been placed in the city itself. New York prospered under the admin- istration of William_ and Mary. During the next half century its population steadily increased each decade, and all through Colonial days it continued to_ wax and grow strong. It retained its original cosmopol- itan character; swarthy men in picturesque gari3 adorned the streets, and denizens from all parts of the world made up its popula- tion. Here are some interesting figures showing its growth. Years Population 1698 4.937 1703 4.375 1712 5.841 1723 7.248 1731 8,622 1737 9.059 1746 II. 717 1749 13.294 1756 13.046 1771 21,862 1774 22,750 49 The Woolworth Building, occupying a block on Broadway between Park Place and Barclay Street. Years Population 1786 23.614 1790 33.131 1800 60,529 1810 96.373 1820 123,706 *i830 197-092 * This year New York overtook Phila« delphia in population. New York in the Revolution The history of the City of New York up to the Revolution is, of course, more or less familiar to us all. It is not our purpose to follow in detail this period, but two events of greater importance than the others deserve to be recorded. The ftrst of these is the trial of John Peter Zengerin i735. who essayed the first inde- pendent newspaper in America, and as a result found himself in serious difficulties with the authorities. The columns of his paper, "The New York Weekly Journal," teemed with bitter criticisms of the newly- appointed governor, William Cosby, and his council, who retaliated by ordering the arrest of Zenger and the burning of several numbers of the Journal in Wall Street, opposite Federal Hall. From prison. Zenger continued to attack the ruling powers, and the populace became wildly SI excited over the situation. The result of his trial was a verdict of "Not guilty," which was greeted with many demonstra- tions of popular satisfaction. This estab- lished once and for all freedom of the press in the Colonies, and to John Peter Zenger, a German, the republic owes this inestima- ble boon. The second event was resistance to the Stamp Act in 1765. The city as well as the rest of the colonies had contributed its quota of money and men to the expense of the French and Indian wars, and had otherwise borne its full share of public expense. Consequently, when the news of the passage of the Stamp Act taxing the colonies a second time for the same expenses was received, a great storm of indignation arose. Associations sprang up rapidly in every colony under the name of "The Sons of Liberty." In New York the headquarters of the Sons was in Martling's Restaurant, and a liberty pole was erected on the Com- mon, now City Hall Park, in 1766. Bad feeling between the citizens and the King's troops steadily increased. Three times this year the troops cut down the Liberty Pole, but the fourth pole was held in place until 1770, when a party of the Sixteenth Regi- ment cut it down. As the result of this out- rage, a fight occurred between the King's 53 troops and the citizens, in which one of the latter was killed, three wounded and many- injured. This incident is claimed as the first conflict of the War of the Revolution, and is referred to historically as the "Battle of Golden Hill." It occurred about where is nowthecorner of John and WiUiam streets. Events moved rapidly after this through- out the entire English possessions in North America, culminating in the Battle of Lex- ington, which opened the Revolution in reality. When the Declaration of Inde- pendence was read in New York, the citi- zens proceeded to Bowling Green, tore down the leaden statue of George III and melted it into bullets. During the war New York was occupied by the British almost from the first to the last, and suffered niore in proportion than any other single city or section of the coun- try. While the city itself was free from actual conflict, yet many engagements were fought in its vicinity, one in particular — the Battle of Long Island — in which the British troops very nearly drove Washington into the hands of Sir William Howe. A dense fog. however, enabled Washington to get his army across the river, where Aaron Burr met and conducted them successfully along the west side of the city to Harlem Heights almost under the eyes of the British troops. 55 A few days later the Battle of Harlem Heights was fought. In both of these engagements a large number of prisoners were taken by the British, who were after- wards confined in churches, sugar houses, the old Hall of Records, and other inade- quate buildings. Some were taken to old hulks in the Wallabout. Many died of starvation and disease contracted in these places. The Martyrs' monument in Trinity churchyard is erected to their memory. The long occupation of the British left the city desolate and discouraged. A disas- trous conflagration in 1776 almost leveled it to the ground. _ In addition to the rigors of war, this calamity caused the inhabitants acute suffering, and to make matters worse if possible, a second fire in 1778 destroyed almost the few remaining houses. Upon the evacuation by the British in 1783, therefore, it seemed that ruin and devastation could have gone no further. The citizens of New York were naturally in a greatly depressed frame of mind, and it looked for the moment as if there was no possible hope for the future. With the departure of the last British boat, however, and the entrance into the city of the Amer- ican troops with General Washington, com- mander-in-chief, Hamilton, Lincoln, Knox and other victorious generals of the Conti- 57 The statue of George III which stood in Bowling Green. Destroyed during Revolution and melted into bullets. nental Army, the citizens regained their cour- age and viewed the future cheerfully. Within a short time Washington was elected first president of the newly formed republic, and New York was selected as the Federal Capital. This inaugural, fraught with so much importance, is worthy of a descrip- tion from an eye-witness: Mrs. Eliza Susan Morton Quincy, wife of Josiah Quincy thus describes the event: "I was on the roof of the first house in Broad Street, which belonged to Captain Prince, the father of one of my school com- panions, and so near to Washington that I could almost hear him speak. The windows and the roofs of the houses were crowded, and in the streets the throng was so dense that it seemed as if one might literally walk on the heads of the people. The balcony of the hall was in full view of this assembled multitude. In the centre of it was placed a table with a rich covering of red velvet, and upon this, on a crimson velvet cushion, lay a large and elegant Bible. This was all the paraphernalia for the august scere. After taking the oath of office, a signal was given by raising a liag upon the cupola of the Hall for a general discharge of the artil- lery of the Battery. _ All the bells in the city rang out a peal of joy, and the assembled multitude sent forth a universal shout. The 59 Old St. Peter's Church, cor. Barclay and Church Streets. First Roman Catholic Church ia New York City. President again bowed to the people and then retired from the scene such as the proud- est monarch never enjoyed. Many enter- tainments were given, both public and private, and the city was illuminated in the evening." A statue of Washington, erected under the auspices of the Chamber of Commerce of the State of New York by public sub- scription, as he appeared taking the oath of office, has been placed on the steps of the Sub-Treasury building, site of the old Federal Hall in Wall Street facing Broad, commemorates this occurrence. As President, Washington lived in the Franklin House in Franklin Square, corner of Cherry Street (a picture of which is shown on another page) during the first period of his occupancy. The site is now covered by one of the piers of the Brooklyn Bridge. The neighborhood at that time was one of the social centres of New York, and contained the residences of many well known families. In the Franklin House, General and Mrs. Washington held public receptions in the afternoon, in accordance with the custom of the day; these receptions usually ended when the General's bedtime cam.e, about ten o'clock. A little later when Fort George and the battery which had been built just outside of the fort were removed. 6r Old St. George's Chapel in Beekman St., 1831. Now site of Chas. A. Schieren Co.'s Belting House. a Government House was erected on the same site in which Washington was to re- side, but the capital being moved to Phila- delphia in 1790, he never occupied it. He moved to the Bunker Mansion at No. 39 Broadway, where he remained until his removal to Philadelphia. With the final adoption of the Federal Constitution, the several cities began to forge ahead, and in 1800 New York City with its 60,000 inhabitants may be fairly said to have started on its career. At the same time Philadelphia had about 105,000 and Boston 80,000. Most of the people in New York lived below Fulton Street, and Greenwich Village (now the 9th Ward) was regarded as a summer resort, not to be visited for a stay of less than two weeks at least. New York in the Nineteenth Century After the removal of the capital to Phila- delphia, New York settled down to begin that career of commercial importance which marked it at the beginning and has been its dominant feature ever since. The country itself may have been said to have been in that happy state where it was making no new history. The city of New York was small enough to be com- 63 pact, and yet large enough to give evidence of its coming cosmopolitanism. The main residential section was below Fulton Street, which at that time did not extend west of Broadway. The merchants to a large ex- tent lived over their stores. _ The wealthy families maintained luxurious country places along the East River and on the banks of the Hudson. Their imported Lon- don carriages and livery and large retinues of servants were the feature of the social life in New York, and were reminiscent of the Colonial days. Notwithstanding the fact that all men were supposed to be free and equal after the adoption of the Federal Constitution, slav- ery was not abolished in New York City until almost a half century later. The lead- ing social centres of New York at that time were clustered around the Battery, which was then and is today a most agreeable sec- tion of the city. There are still standing on State Street the houses of Roger Morris and Archibald Gracie, which are relics of those days. The Battery had a sea wall extending along its front and presented a beautiful shore to the waters of the Bay. It was thickly wooded with poplars and elms, and was a highly fashionable promenade during the summer_ season. During the War of 1812 Fort Clinton was erected at its extreme 6S . Nathan Hale Statue. Broadway side of City Hall Park. southern end and was connected with the main land by a wooden bridge. After the war the fort became Castle Garden (1824), and for many years was a place of enter- tainment. It is, perhaps, most vividly recalled by old New Yorkers as the scene of Jenny Lind's great triumph under the management of P. T. Barnuni in 1855, and later the emigrant station until 1891. To- day it is known as the Aquarium. Other centres of social life were lower Broadway from No. i up to Rector Street, on the corner of which stood Grace Church before it moved up town. Greenwich Street for two or three blocks north of the Battery was known as "Millionaires Row," where were the town residences of Brockholst Livingston, John Johnston, Robert Lenox, Adam Norrie and other distinguished mer- chants of that day. On the east side of the city, along Wall, Pine, Hanover Square, Pearl and Cherry streets, were the honies of many well-known families of the richer class. The Walton House, which stood on Pearl Street, is still recalled as the most luxurious and hand- some residence in this or any other city at that time. It was torn down to make way for the Brooklyn Bridge. The geographical formation of the island remained practically what it was at the 67 time of Hudson's first discovery, with the exception of a few roads leading to the in- terior, but as a matter of fact, the whole eastern seaboard of the colonies had little more conveniences in 1800 than were avail- able two hundred years earlier. The inven- tion of steam had not been introduced, and communication with the interior was slow and burdensome. Mail coaches left regu- larly two or three times each week — Albany and Philadelphia being three-day trips and Boston six days. The site now in the course of development of New York's civic centre, and of which the new court house will be the main building, embraces a section that was formerly a huge pond, in some places possessing a depth of over 90 feet. It was on this pond that John Fitch gave the first demonstration of a steamboat. An attempt was made to drain the pond; part of the work was undertaken. A canal was cut through the swampy land of Lispenard meadows to the west, drain- ing into the Hudson. This, however, made it more of a menace to health than before and ten years later the pond was fiUedin and the canal turned into the street which now bears its name. Skirting the shore on the west, the first habitation outside of the city was a cluster of houses beginning at about Fourth Street, 69 which was then called Greenwich Village. Through Greenwich Village ran a limpid stream which had its rise somewhere about Madison Square in Twenty-third Street, flowed along Broadway through Fourteenth Street and diverged to the southwest. The whole of Greenwich Village was of a particu- larly sandy nature, forming a natural drain- age system. On this account it seemed to be free from the awful scourges of yellow fever which periodically visited New York, and it was the custom during such epidemics for most of the families who could afford it to flee to Greenwich Village. The epidemic of 1822 was of such severity that all of the banks and large houses erected buildings there in which to live and carry on business, from which fact Bank Street gets its name. This exodus lasted for several months, and during this period most of the important business of New York was transacted in Greenwich Village. The village was con- nected to New York by a stage line which ran once or twice a day; no one thought of paying a visit to a friend in Greenwich Village except with a view of staying at least two weeks, and trunks and bandboxes always accompanied them. The nineteenth century, therefore, holds for New York City a wonderful record of achievement, during which time the founda- 71 Grace and Triniiv C Brua.hvay. Grace CLurch now at Broadway and 10th Street. tions of our present greatness was laid. It is the purpose of this narrative to give but the bare facts in the history of this period, which mixes the bitter with the sweet. At the very beginning of the century New York records the loss of two of its greatest statesmen in the death of Alexander Ham- ilton, who fell on July 7, 1804, the victim in a duel with Aaron Burr, which marked the latter for all future time a ruined man. The death of Hamilton was regarded asa National bereavement and his funeral in NewYork was the most remarkable ever seen in the city. This incident ended duel- ling in the North. Three years later, on August 7. 1807, the first attempt of steam navigation on the Hudson River was made by Robert Fulton in the "Clermont," called by the doubting ones "Fulton's Folly." The present plan of our streets and avenues north of Houston Street is the result of the work of a Com- mission appointed in 1807, who completed their labors in 18 11. The War of 181 2 called a temporary halt on New York's rapid develop- ment, and for a time paralyzed trade and social life completely. Forts were erected at several points along' the North River, at the foot of Gansevoort and Hubert streets, and off the 73 Battery which I have just described. In the northern part of the city MacGowan's Pass and clear across to Harlem Heights numer- ous blockhouses were erected, as it was thought the British would enter by way of Canada. In the midst of all these prepara- tions peace was declared and the treaty signed at Ghent, and once more the city settled down to the development and trans- action of its legitimate affairs. In 1812 the present City Hall was completed and occup- ied. Two yea rs later the city took great com- mercial strides in the development of packet service to all parts of the globe, beginning with the famous Black Ball Line between New York and Liverpool in 18 17. The State Legislature in this year approved of the construction of the Erie Canal, 363 miles in length, connecting the Great Lakes with the sea, which feat — the wonder of the age — was accomplished Oct. 26, 1825. The first horse railroad was set afoot in 1831, connecting the centre of the city with Harlem, and followed a few years later by the establishment of the steam railroads. In the middle of the thirties New York was well established in its coinmercial progress and had passed to the front in population by 1830, leaving Philadelphia behind to take second place for the first time. It boasted of six play houses the most frequented of 75 which was the Park Theatre on Park Row estabhshed in 1798, and one visitor de- scribed the city at this time as the gayest place in America. And amid this great wave of prosperity came its greatest set- back the Great Fire of 183S, which de- stroyed 600 buildings causing a loss of 20 million dollars. It is doubtful if any other city ever suf- fered a catastrophe of such magnitude and yet achieved such an astonishing recovery. Not only was it rebuilt in a remarkably short period but the new buildings were of a class distinctly superior to the old type and greatly enhanced its appearance. The pi ^tureof Wall Street in i84Sshownelsewhere gives a good idea of this great improvement. This unexpected blow, however, led to the panic of 1836-7 affecting every part of the land. All insurance companies suspended payment and 260 business houses failed for over a hundred millions, and the 23 lianks in this city closed their doors. Within a year New York was again on the road to recovery and many changes for the better grew out of the ruins of the great conflagration, one of far reaching and great importance being the introduction of Croton Water into the city in 1842 as it was the lack of water which proved so disastrous in the fire of 1835. 77 The press of the day must also be men- tioned and at the time of which we speak the leading newspapers were the Commer- cial Advertiser, established in 1793, now represented in the "Globe", the Evening Post begun in 1801, The Sun with its initial number on Sept. 3, 1833, changed the size of its paper from the large cumber- some sheet of its contemporaries to a small quarto and instituted the present newsboy- system of delivering papers to the public, a custom quickly followed by others. On May 6, 1835, the Herald appeared, estab- lished by James Gordon Bennett and on April 10, 1 841, the Tribune entered with Horace Greely. While the Times followed in Sept. 1851, and the World four years later. In 1837 Samuel F. B. Morse perfected his invention of the telegraph but it was not until 1843 that the Federal Governemnt granted him sufficient funds to prove its value and in 1846 New York (the home of the inventor) was connected with Philadel- phia and Washington by telegraph. The building of railroads was pushed vigorously during this period and immense sums in- vested. Quick returns were expected but not realized, and resulted in the panic of 1857 which was felt in every part of the nation. Banks again suspended payment 79 and resulted in 5000 failures with a loss of three hundred millions of dollars. Arisinp^ from the stupor of this set-back New York again went forward only to be retarded shortly by the Civil Y/ar, but the develop- ment of the steamship, telegraph and rail- way went steadily on, placing it in its pres- ent supremacy. At the opening of the Civil War New York had as its Mayor, Fernando Wood, an unscrupulous politician who sent a message to the Common Council for New York to secede from the Union. The heart of _ New York, however, beat true to the Union. In July, 1863, the draft riots occurred, the most serious of lawless outbreaks since the Astor Place Riot of 1849. It was not until tv^^o million dollars worth of property had been destroyed and more than twelve hundred rioters killed that the situation came under control. To offset that side of our history we must point tothe two hundred and ten million dollars raised by the Union League Club of New York for the government to suppress the rebellion. New York men also furnished the money for building the iron clad " Moni- tor" the saviour of the Union fleet. The close of the Civil War brought a change of great local interest in New York — the passing of the Old Volunteer Fire De- partment for the paid system of today es- Lord & Taylor's store in Catharine Street, 1826. tablished in 1865. The fascinating and heroic tale of the old volunteers is a story of its own. In 1868 the elevated system was com- menced, and completed through the efforts of Cyrus W. Field and Jay Gould in 1880. Three years later saw the greatest bridge in the world stretched across the East River, the "Brooklyn Bridge." In 1898 greater New York was estab- lished, giving New York City an area of 318 square miles. Its present immense population, its new bridges, subways, river tunnels and great buildings, are elsewhere described and pictured in this book, and are of fascinating interest, and will supple- ment and complete this altogether too brief a sketch. In the pages which follow we have added much general information regarding the city, so that a visit to the big town will be made more interesting, and more under- standable. New York is so huge and changes so rapidly that even its own people have hard work to remember how certain streets looked even a few years ago. We are certain, however, that a perusal of this work will amply repay any person who visits the town and desires to retain some lastii^.g impressions of his e.xperience. 83 1 he first Department Stoie, R. H. Macy, 185J. 6tb Avenue near 14th Street. In New York — 340 million people travel every year in the subways, and over 250 million in the surface cars. A passenger train arrives every 52 sec- onds. There is a wedding every 13 minutes. Four new business firms start up every 42 minutes. A new building is erected every 51 min- utes. 350 new citizens come to make their homes every day. 4 transient visitors arrive every second. A child is born every 6 minutes. 30 deeds and 27 mortgages are filed for record every business hour of the day. Every 48 minutes a ship leaves the har- bor. Every night Si, 250, 000 is spent in the hotels and restaurants for dining and wining. An average of 21,000 persons pass daily through the corridors of the largest hotel. 7.500 people are at work daily for thj city in one building — the Municipal Build- ing. 300,000 pass the busiest points along Broadway each day. More than 1,000,000 immigrants land every year. 85 Every man, woman and child is allowed 105 gallons of water a day. 4,000 people are arrested every day. 11,000,000 matches are given away daily in the tobacco shops and hotel cigar stands. The telephone centrals have 586,000 calls each hour. _ There are 1,090 churches of all denomina- tions. $2,500,000 is spent annually in mainte- nance of public charities. There are two fires every hour — yet the average annual fire loss is less than $5,- 000.000. The Fire Department answers 233 false alarms every daj'. 20,000 people spend all their working hours underground. There are 50,000 night workers. 2,000 pupils, representing 27 different nationalities, are registered at one school in the East Side. New York City, in the course of the year, carries the names of 97,oiS persons upon its p:iyrolls. Of these aVjout i5-000 are tem- porary employees, leaving 82,015 regulars. Probably no less than two other persons are dependent upon the earnings of each city employee, making a total of nearly 300,000 persons whose support comes out of the city treasury. 87 The Board of Education has the longest payroll, with 25,800 names on its list. The Police Department has 10,640 employees, the Street Cleaning Department 7,002, the Fire Department 5.14S. the Department of Water Supply, Gas and Electricity 3.330, the Department of Health 2,961, the De- partment of Public Charities 2,898, and the Department of Docks and Ferries 2,601. New York City Has— More Irish than Dublin. More Italians than Rome. A German population twice the total population of Bremen. More than Leipzig and Frankfort-on-Main combined. 113 public parks, varying in size from 4 square yards to 1,756 acres. More active club women than London and Paris combined. One block in which more than 5.000 peo- ple live and on less than 4 acres of ground. More Austrians and Hungarians than in Trieste and Fiume combined. _ A Jewish population one-seventh of its total, and their number equals the popula- tion of Maine. An annual budget greater than that of any other five American cities combined — ■ in all about one-third as much as Uncle Sam spends to govern the nation. 89 More people living in its confines than in fourteen of our States and Territories. The record for being the greatest pur- chasing municipality in the world, not ex- cepting London. More than one-half the population of the State of New York. The majority of the banking power of the United States, which has two-thirds of the world's banking power. An annual population increase of more than 100,000, besides its own product of births. New York City has 1562 miles of surface, subway and elevated railways, operating 8514 passenger coaches carrying daily 4,849,012 passengers on cash fares, and 419.799 on transfers. A density of population (in Manhattan) of 96,000 per square mile, six times that of any other city in the United States. Chi- cago, the next largest city, has 10,789 per square mile. Within a radius of 30 miles a population of 7,000,000 people, one-fourteenth of the population of the United States. A population greater than the total popu- lation of the United States when Washing- ton was inaugurated. A. gross debt equaling the interest-bearing National debt. 91 Assessed valuation representing one- fifteenth the total estimated wealth of the United States. Sufficient space to accommodate 25,000,- 000 people if the population were evenly- distributed. A central hotel district, with a radius of less than half a mile, which contains 72 hotels, with a capacity for more than 20,000 guests. More than $205,000,000 invested in ho- tels. Their yearly expenditure is $29,000,- 000 and they employ 31,000 persons of all nationalties. 170 buildings that are 10 stories and over in height. Five office buildings, all within five blocks, worth $45,500,000, within which . 28,500 people are at work daily. Public libraries that are made use of by 5,000,000 more people annually than those of any other city in the world. A new water supply system, now build- ing, which will cost $300,000,000. It will eventually supply 1,000,000,000 gallons of water daily. Famous Central Park, which cost origi- nally $5,000,000, and whose construction and maintenance to date has aggregated $25,000,000. The land is now worth $200,- 000,000. 93 ■r%r ( ^5^s k \ lii-^' 'JHH 'f^i ' jBBHB jP^^^ ^Bf / i \. ^^^P — ^.^yjH^ A i »-/ :^ Spent $250,000,000 in the last 10 years in building underground and under water railroads. Two terminals — the Grand Central and Pennsylvania Railroad's new stations and tunnel under the Hudson — which cost over $200,000,000 — four times as much as would be required to duplicate all the railroads of the entire European kingdom of Denmark^. A value of real estate reckoned at $3,391,- 771.862. Average daily transactions at the New York Clearing House totaling $253,000,000. A total value of imports at the port of New York of $940,000,000 annually. Ex- ports, $775,000,000 annually. A population twice that of the six largest States in the Union (after Texas), whose combined area is 754,665 square miles — 3,200 times that of New York City. A total population which, if divided into smaller communities, would make 10 cities the size of Pittsburgh. 1,500,000 more people than in the entire State of Missouri. A population greater than any Western State, any Middle State (except Illinois), or any Southern State. A population exceeded by only three States in the Union — New York, Pennsyl- vania and Illinois. 95 A population which equals the combined population of Florida, Georgia and Ala- bama. 10,640 men in its Police Department. 5,145 men in its Fire Department. Savings bank deposits aggregating 5970,- 000,000 — about S22S for each man, woman and child in the city. Public schools attended by 900,000 pu- pils, in which 18,200 teachers are employed. It spends Sioo.ooo daily for ice cream. Counting two glasses to the pint, New York consumes daily, all the year round, an average of 14,000,000 glasses of beer, at a cost of $700,000. Including the imported brands, 10,000,000 barrels of beer are sold in the Metropolis annually, each barrel containing 31^2 gallons. The City's soda water check amounts to J6oo,ooo for each 24 hours. This means, 12,000,000 glasses. Greater New York's Total As- sessed valuation $7,800,180,532 The assessment tolls, 19 15. show the total assessed valuation (tentative) for all the five boroughs of Greater New York to be $7,800,180,532. The following table, which includes both privately owned real estate and that of corporations, shows the figures for each borough: 97 Boroughs. 19IS. Manhattan $4,932,364,260 Bronx 656,310, 771 Brooklyn 1,628,268,357 Queens 500,226,299 Richmond 83,010,845 Totals for all boroughs. . . $7,800,180,532 How to See the City Within late years the business of showing strangers over the town in specially con- structed Motor Busses, has grown to be an important industry. All things considered, it saves much time and effort, is vastly more satisfactory, and in the end proves cheaper. Competent lecturers accompany each trip, and anyone who has traveled much, will admit that a great deal of the pleasure of a trip depends upon having the different places properly described. There are several companies, any one of which is sure to be satisfactory and the points of interest they have selected is the result of close acquaintance with the city. There are two routes generally selected — one through the lower part of the city be- low 23d Street, and the other north, or up- town. That through the lower part of the city gives a comprehensive view from Madi- son Square down Fifth Avenue and Broad- 99 way to Bowling Green, from which point a fine view is had of the Bay, the Statue of Liberty, the Aquarium, and the Battery. The financial district, Stock Exchange, the Bowery, Chinatown, the Italian and He- brew quarters and Brooklyn Bridge are seen on the way. The lecturer will call out the different buildings as the car rolls along giving a brief history of each. Some of the principal features of this down-town trip are as follows: Brooklyn Bridge BuildinginwhichLafayettewasweIcomedini824 Bowling Green Bowery Burial place of Alexander Hamilton and Robt. Fulton Bridge of Sighs Building in which Washington bade farewell to his officers Burial place of Charlotte Temple and Char- lotte Cushman Bartholdi's Statue of Liberty Burial place of Capt. James Lawrence: "Don't Give Up the Ship." Church where ^^'ashington attended services Criminal Court Building Chamber of Commerce Castle Garden Consolidated Stock Exchange Church containing largest ecclesiastical oil painting in the world ^ ^^^^^s^^^^TT^ffi^^^^^H -J g^ vt''^' '^H^^HM^HI^^^^^H w^ \ ^MH^H9|H|H< o ^ ^ ^^^ f ?-^ . o ^ ^>' f^ffl !' t' VsSt i "J J' V ) -i.vi , ,1 lirfai^sr 1 S-a iiilil!Bl^ffifiiW^7^^^^*^^BS^ft m ^S dZ ^^^^9Hp4^3f^H^^^^H da > ^1 ^^^HSvBh i-* fj|'^^i^^^^^^^^i \ T '^'^u-^i^^^^^^^t^^^^^^^^M ^' 'LvPi^^^^^Hi^^^HHHB Cotton Exchange Curb Market City Post Office City Hall Columbia Univ^ersity Club Coffee Exchange Cooper Union Church attended by Lord Rogers Church to the memory of the first American Foreign Missionary Chinatown Custom House Building Chemical National Bank (known to the bank- ing world as "Old Bullion") Eye and Ear Hospital East Side Tenements (barracks) Empire Building Ellis Island First Street paved in New York First Street laid out in New York Five Points Fence from which busts of George III were removed. Fire boat "New Yorker" Funeral Urn over 2000 years old Flat Iron Building First Presbyterian Church in New York Gramercy Park (only private park in New York) Statue of Admiral Farragut St. Mark's Church Statue of Nathan Hale Sub-Treasury Site of building where Washington's Inaugural Ball took place 103 Site of Battle of Golden Hill Site Fort Amsterdam, 1619 Statue of George Washington Stopping place of Jenny Lind Site where first "New York Girl" was born Singer Building Site of Liberty Pole Statue of Abraham de Peyster Scene of Draft Riots Scene of the S20,ooo,ooo fire in 1835 Madison Square Presbyterian Church (Rev. C. H. Parkhurst) Madison Square Garden Maiden Lane Manhattan Bridge Mulberry Bend Mills Building Marble Cemetery (one of the oldest Christian cemeteries in the country) N. Y. Life Building N. Y. Hospital New Equitable Building New York Stock Exchange Newspaper Row New York Clearing House New York Municipal Building New York Harbor National Arts Club Offices of J. P. Morgan & Company Oldest ferry entering New York Oldest statue in New York Oldest building in New York One-mile stone Oldest Catholic Church in New York Old Bowery Theatre Oldest Bank in America Princeton Club Players Club Police Patrol Boat Place where Washington took the oath of office as first president of the United States Park Row Building Presbyterian Building Place where Washington's army rested Rescue Mission in Chinatown Site of Merchant's Coffee House Site of first Metropolitan Opera House Site where leaden statue of George III stood St. Paul's Chapel Statue of Lafayette Statue of first Dutch Governor of New Amsterdam Site of Old Slave Alarket, 1709 Site where Marinus Willetts seized from Brit- ish muskets with which he armed the Ameri- cans Site of first settlement of white men on Man- hattan Island Tammany Hall The Ghetto "- Trinity Church Theatre in which Charlotte Cushman made her debut Theatre where Edwin Booth achieved his early fame Tallest inhabited building in the world Terminus of all the Elevated Roads » University of the City of New York 107 pjH|WW|HB 1 ^. \ ^1 iH B '' "^S^^M^^^H '^^1~>, ~ ^^^E"^ V 1^5 2 tf ^ ^rji^H^I^^ '-^^Bn 19 ^■-^ ^ "^^^^iH^ 9 '1 If "-■i»^4rAMiLia 'A o H ^ ^^^^t^^i^lHHi U. S. Quartermaster's Oflfice Union Square U. S. Assay Office Wall Street Washington Memorial Arch Whitehall Building Young Woman's Christian Association The tour through upper New York in- cludes the palatial residential section along Fifth Avenue, the beautiful boulevards and driveways of Central Park and Riverside, the Tomb of General Grant (where a stop of ten minutes is made) and where an un- equalled view of the Hudson River and the Palisades can be obtained; Columbia Uni- versity buildings, cathedrals, churches, hos- pitals, etc., as given on the following list, and which are referred to by the lectuier: Building of American Society for the Preven- tion of Cruelty to Animals Appellate Court House Automobile Club of America Ansonia Apartment House Academy of Sacred Heart Barnard College for Women Block House No. i of 1812 Block House used during Revolution Brick Presbyterian Church Block on which stand seven theatres College of the City of New York Church of the Blessed Sacrament 109 "^^1^ ■*'^ .:-im fl^^ bbM^^^M ^ ^^1 ^( - - ■^M*^^P W'- ^ 1 ^^^^^^^ u-> ■ d '^all Church containing Baptismal Fountain given in 1694 Collegiate Reformed Church Church of Heavenly Rest Central Park— with BethesdaFountian— Zoolog- ical and Botanical Gardens — Egytian Obelisk Claremont Inn Church where Duke of Marlborough and Miss \'anderbilt were married Club that raised funds and troops for Union during Civil War Cathedral of St. John the Divine Columbus Monument Delmonico's Restaurant Democratic Club Engineers' Club Fifth Avenue Presbyteiian Church Fort Washington Former Home of Boss Tweed Former Home of Bishop Potter Fountain presented to city by officers and sailors of the English Fleet Finest Apartment House in the World House in which Jay Gould died Headquarters State Reputilican Club House in which Prince Henry of Prussia was entertained Holland House House built of stone imported from Germany Hotel St. Regis Historic Mac Gowan's Pass Hotel in which Napoleon of France stopped Jewish Synagogue Knickerbocker Club III Little Church Around the Corner Low Memorial Library Times Square and Building Millionaires' Row Metropolitan Museum of Art Museum of Natural History Marble Collegiate Church Metropolitan Club Manhattan Club Manhattan Viaduct Martha Washington Hotel (women only) Most costly residence in America Millionaires' Club Morningside Park Metropolitan Opera House New York Club New York Herald Building New Hotel Astor New Pennsylvania Depot New Grand Central Station Old Fort Lee Old Potter's Field Old Arsenal Panoramic View of Washington Heights Plaza Hotel Receiving Reservoir for city water Republican Club Sherry's Restaurant Statue of General William Tecumseh Sherman St Patrick's Roman Catholic Cathedral Soldiers' and Sailors' Monument — Riverside Drive Site where Gen. Washington met Gen. Green and "Wolf" Putnam 113 "c -■f -V' ■ 4 if, j w «*- r- "-^ 41 i St. Luke's Hospital Site of tragic Windsor Hotel fire Scene ot retreat o£ American troops during Revolution Site of duel between Aaron Burr and Alexan- der Hamilton Tiffany's new store Trees planted by Li Hung Chang University, Union League, Union Clubs Vanderbilt Twin Houses, etc. There is also a trip around Manhattan Island by the sight-seeing yachts "Obser- vation ' ' and ' ' Tourist ", which is of extreme interest and well worth making. The boats start from Battery Park Pier at 10:30 A.M. and 2.30 P.M. daily, from May 1st to November ist. They sail up the East River, around the island, through the Har- lem Ship Canal, down the Hudson, past the Palisades, Fort Washington, Grant's Tomb and Riverside Park, revealing an unexpected number of interesting fea- tures of the shipping and commerce of New York as well as the gigantic Atlantic liners. Another trip starts from the above-men- tioned pier at 1:15 P.M. daily, going down the Bay to Staten Island past the Quaran- tine Station, Forts Hamilton. Wadsworth and LaFayette, through the Narrows to the ZI5 St. Patrick's Cathedial at IMott and Prince Streets. Lower Bay, past Sandy Hook Light Ship and Fort Hancock. The yacht rounds the Sandy Hook Light Ship (25 miles from Battery Pier) presenting an unequalled view of the entrance to New York Harbor. On the way back to the city a good view is given of famous Coney Island, Brighton and Manhattan Beaches. As in the case of the motor busses, all of these yachts carry a competent lecturer who explains every point of interest in passing. Residences of Prominent People It is doubtful if any city in the union has a residential section of such international reputation as borders Central Park on the east, along Fifth Avenue. Practically every house is occupied by a family of note socially or commercially, and for those who wish to take a leisurely stroll along that noted thoroughfare, we give below a few names together with the number of the houses in which they re^de. All are on Fifth Avenue. Mrs. John Jacob Astor No. 840 Mr. Edwin Gould " 936 Mr. Francis Burton Harrison " 876 Col. Oliver H. Payne " 852 Rev, Alfred Duane Pell " 929 117 Mr. William Rockefeller No. 689 Mr. Thos. F. Ryan " 858 Mr. Jacob H. Schiff " 965 Mrs. Finley J. Shepard (Miss Helen M. Gould) " 579 Mrs. Russell Sage " 604 Mr. B. N. Duke " 200 Mrs. Marcus Daly " 225 Mr. Anthony J. Drexel, Jr " 1051 I^Ir. Fred'k S. Flower " 612 Mr. Henry Clay Frick. .sth Ave. cor. 70th St Mr. Robert Goelet No. 647 Mr. S. R. Guggenheim " 743 Mr. Robt. L. Gerry " 816 Mr. Wm. Guggenheim " 833 Judge E. H. Gerry " 856 Mr. Geo. J. Gould " 857 Mr. Adrian Iselin, Jr " 711 Mr. Wm. E. Iselin " 745 Mr. Philip Lewisohn " 923 Mr. Mortimer L. Schiff " 932 Mr. \\'illiam Salomon " 1020 Mr. Sam'l Untermeyer " 675 Mr. Fred'k Vanderbilt " 459 Mr. Wm. K. \'anderbilt " 660 Mrs. Wm. K. Vanderbilt .Jr " 666 Mr. Harry Payne Whitney " 870 Mr. Frank W. Woolworth " 991 Mrs. O. H. P. Belmont. No. 477 Madison Ave. Mrs. H. O. Havemeyer.sth Ave. cor 66th St. Mrs. E. H. Harriman. . .5th .A.ve. cor 69th St. Mr. James Speyer No. 257 Madison Ave. Mr. Andrew Carnegie. .5th Ave. cor. gist St. Mr, James B. Clews. . .sth Ave. cor. 85th St. 119 The Flat Iron Building, Corner of 23rd Street and Broadway. Mr. James B. Duke.. . .Sth Ave. cor. 78th St. Mrs. Ogden Goelet 608 sth Ave.. Mr. Elbridge T. Gerry .2 East 6ist St. Judge A. R. Lawrence.. 69 Washington Place Mr. Ogden Mills 2 East 69th St. Mrs. Herman Oelrichs. . 5th Ave. cor. 57th St. Mr. Louis Stern 464 Riverside Drive Mrs. Hamilton McK. Twombly.27 E. 55th St. Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt . 5th Ave. & 57th St. Senator William A. Clark. 5th Ave. & 77th St. Mr. Wm. H. Vanderbilt. 5th Ave.. 53-54th St9. Mr. John D. Rockefeller 4 West 54th St. Mr. J. P. Morgan. . .36th St. & Madison Ave. Famous Churches in New York New York has some very famous sacred edifices. Unquestionably the one which ap- peals most to strangers is the historic Gothic pile at the head of Wall Street on Broadway— old Trinity. Not so many years ago people climbed the spire _ of Trinity to get a view of the surrounding city as it was then the highest point on the island. Its proportions, however, have been dwarfed by its present surrounding sky- scrapers, which tower far above the spire, but the dignity and beauty of Trinity have in no wise been diminished; the contrast between its restful repose and the turmoil of Broadway is as grateful to-day as ever; 121 Looking North, Broadway from Trinity Church. The large building overlooks Trinity churchyaid. and the open gate still as persuasively in- vites us to turn aside for a moment within the twilight of its aisles, or to stroll amid the headstones where so many thousands are sleeping the long sleep. _ The church is the third of those which have stood here since 1697. The first one was burned in the great fire of 1776, which destroyed 500 buildings, and the second one, having become unsafe, was pulled down to make way for the present edifice, which was completed in 1S46. It is of brown sand- stone and is regarded as a fine specimen of the Gothic style. In the belfry is the fa- mous chime of bells. On New Year's Eve thousands of people come down to Trinity to hear the chimes ring out the old year and welcome the new. In the northern part of the ground near Broadway stands the handsome Gothic memorial commonly called the Martyrs' MOXUMENT. Sacred to the memory of those brave and good men, who died whilst itnprisoned in this City, for their devotion to the cause of A nieri- ca's Independence. On the left, as we enter at the lower Broadway gate, is the monument, "In memory of Captain James Lawrence, of the United States Navy, who fell on the ist day of June, 1 8 13, in the 3 2d year of his age, in 123 Clinton Hal!, cor. Bceknian and Nassau Sts.- Now site of 'i'cmple Court. the action between the frigates Chesapeake and Shannon." The tribute on the pedes- tal reads: The heroic commander of the frigate Chesapeake, whose remains are here deposited, expressed ivith his expiring breath his de- votion to his country. Neither the fury of battle, the anguish of a mortal wound, nor the horrors of approaching death could subdue his gallant spirit. His dying words were, "DOX'T GIVE UP THE SHIP." Alexander Hamilton's tomb is marked by the conspicuous white marble monument i n the south grounds near the Rector street railing. It would require much longer time than can be spared at present to enumerate all the interesting things about old Trinity. It is safe to say that a visit is well worth the trouble. St. Paul's Chapel St. Paul's Chapel on Broadway be- tween Vesey and Fulton streets, is of sufficient historical interest to deserve a short chapter to itself. Curiously enough, the Broadway end of the building! s the rear, for the church was built fronting on the river; and in the old days a pleasant lawn sloped down to the water's edge, which was then on the line I2S of Greenwich street. One effect of St. Paul's thus looking away from Broadway- is to give us at the portal an increased sense of remoteness from the great thoroughfare and of isolation from its strenuous life, so that all the more readily we yield to the pervading spell of the churchyard's peace- ful calm. St. Paul's is a cherished relic of Colonial days. Built in 1766 as a chapel of Trinity Parish, it is the only church edifice which has been preserved from the pre-Revolu- tionary period. After the burning of Trinity in 1776, St. Paul's became the parish church; here worshipped Lord Howe and Major Andre and the English midshipman whowas afterward King George IV. After his inauguration at Federal Hall in Wall street, President Washington and both houses of Congress came in solemn proces- sion to St. Paul's, v.-here service was con- ducted by Bishop Provost, Chaplain of the Senate, and a Te Deum was sung. _ There- after, so long as New York remained the Capital, the President was a regular at- tendant here; his diary for Sunday after Sunday contains the entry: "Went to St. Paul's Chapel in the forenoon." Wash- ington's Pew remains to-day as it was then; it is midway of the church on the left aisle, and is marked by the Arms of the 127 United _ States on the wall. Across the church is the pew which was reserved for the Governor of the State, and was oc- cupied by Governor Clinton; above it are the State Arms. The pulpit canopy is ornamented with the gilded crest of the Prince of Wales, a crown surmounted by three ostrich feathers. It is the only em- blem of royalty that escaped destructionat the hands of the Patriots when they came in- to posses9ion of the city in 1783. In the wall of the Broadway portico, where it is seen from the street and is ob- served by innumerable eyes daily, is the Montgomery Monument, in memory of Major-General Richard Montgomery, of Revolutionary fame. It consists of a mural tablet bearing an urn upon a pedes- tal supported by military accoutrements. General Montgomery commanded the ex- pedition against Canada in 1775, and on Dec. 31 of that year, in company with Colonel Benedict Arnold, led the assault upon Quebec. Just after the exclamation, "Men of New York, you will follow where your General leads!" he fell, mortally wounded. Aaron Burr bore his body from the field, and the Englishmen gave it soldier's burial in the city. Forty-three years later, in 181 8, Canada surrendered the remains to the United States. 129 First homeol Borden's Condensed Milk Co. in Hudson Street, 1855. The monument had been ordered by Congress as early as 1776. It was bought by Benjamin FrankHn in Paris, and was shipped to America on a privateer. A British gunboat captured the privateer, and in turn was taken by an American vessel, and so at last the monument reached its destination. The inscription reads: This Monmnent is erected by order of CONGRESS, 25th Janry, 1776, to trans- mit to Posterity a grateful remembrance of the patriotic conduct, enterprise and per- severance of MAJOR GENERAL RICH- ARD MONTGOMERY, who after a series of successes amidst the most discouraging Difficulties Fell in the attack on QUEBEC 31st Decbr, 1775. Aged 37 years. The State of New York caused the remains of Majr. Genl. Richard Montgomery to be conveyed from Quebec and deposited beneath this monument the Sth day of July, 1818. At that time Mrs. Montgomery, in the forty-third year of her widowhood, was living near Tarry town on the Hudson, Governor Clinton had told her of the day when the steamboat "Richmond", bearing her husband's remains, would pass down the river; and sitting alone on the piazza of her home, she watched for its coming. With what emotions she saw the pageant is told in a letter written to her niece: 131 "At length they came by with all that remained of a beloved husband, who left me in the bloom of manhood, a perfect being. Alas! how did he return? However gratifying to my heart, yet to my feelings every pang I felt was renewed. The pomp with which it was conducted added to my woe; when the steamboat passed with slow and solemn movement, stopping before my house, the troops under arms, the Dead March from the muffled drums, the mourn- ful music, the splendid coffin canopied with crepe and crowned with plumes, you may conceive my anguish. I cannot describe it." The most conspicuous monuments in the churchyard near Broadway are those of Thomas Addis Emmejt and Dr. William J. MacXevin, both of whom participated in the Irish rebellion of 1798, came to New York and achieved distinction, Emmet at the bar and MacXevin in medicine. The inscriptions are in English, Celtic and Latin. "West of the church is the urn with flames issuing from it, which marks the resting place of George Frederick Cooke, the dis- tinguished tragedian; born in England 1756; died in New York 181 2. The monument was erected in 1821 by the great EngHsh actor, Edmund Kean, and has been the subject of pious care by Charles 133 3 ^^^^'^^f^^^is'F^siif^'^iySi^ \ u ^»^.<^^HH|^^^^^Ei^^i^^^^% / / ' -^-^l ti '^SMm^"'*^ '^ L ^ ' ' ^ "^H !2 aHBtfe^K^ ' ^ ' ".fl ^sT^BR^^ ''fi^l E l^j^^L^^ ^^ ' •^i^-'^-V^I 3^ io^P^ /,^^^| 2 ^^W^ >^^^^^l /^HA ^*^ '' i^^i^^H 1 ^'t^*'^'^"^''-^5 T3 1 ^ ,^.1.'" ' '.^^ul S «^ ' ' ^^BhhB >. V jj ^^^«[H u / .^^hH 6 I. "^ ,^wm Kean, who restored it in 1846, Edward A. Sothern in 1874 and Edwin Booth in 1890. The epitaph is by Fitz-Grcene Halleck: Three Kingdoms claim his birth. Both hemispheres pronounce his worth. St. Paul's is dear to the heart of every New Yorker and will ever so remain. St. Peters a block or two from St. Pauls on Barclay Street is the oldest Catholic Church in the city and it still holds services in its original location. With these few exceptions the other important churches are far uptown. St. Thomas on the corner of Fifth Ave. and 56th Street, St. Bartholomews on Madison Avenue and 44th Street. The First Baptist, popularly known as "Rocke- feller's Church," St. Andrews, St. Patricks, Temple Emanuel, Cathedral of St. John the Divine, are all noted structures. A special feature of the services is the music which is of an unusually high order of ex- cellence. Grace Church at loth Street and St. Marks near 2nd Avenue, where_ Gov- ernor Stuyvesant is buried, are also in the public eye but are attended by many of the oldest family. "The Little Church Around the Corner" is a familiar name for the Church 135 of the Transfiguration, on East Twenty- ninth street, near Fifth avenue. The story goes that when in 1871 Joseph Jeffer- son endeavored to arrange for the funeral of George Holland, a brother actor, at a church on Madison avenue, the pastor said that he could not hold burial services over the body of an actor. "But," he added, "there is a little church around the comer you can go to." "Then all honor to the little church around the comer," replied Jefferson. "We will go there." From that time the church and its rector. Rev. George H. Houghton (who died in 1897) were held in affectionate regard by the the- atrical profession. Many actors have been buried from the church, among them Les- ter Wallack, Dion Boucicault and Edwin Booth. There is a memorial window given by The Players (the actors' club), in loving memory of Booth. John Street IMethodtst Church. — The John Street M. E. Church, at 44 John street, called the ''Cradle of American Methodism," is the oldest Methodist church in America. It was founded by Philip Embury in 1766; the first edifice was erected in 1768, a second one on the same site in 181 7, and the present structure in 1841. There are treasured here Philip Embury's Bible, Bishop Asbury's chair and 137 The Merchants' Exchange, 1831. Now Bite of National City Banlc. Wall Street. the clock which John Wesley sent over from England, and which still ticks off the time. There are over a thousand diffeient churches in New York, the Christian Science being the latest addition. Their buildings deserve special notice by reason of their wonderful architectural beauty. In near- ly all the hotels there is a church bulletin issued weekly, which gives the pastors name, location of church, and in some instances the subject for the coming Sunday. These should be consulted by the_ stranger, as well as the religious columns in the Saturday evening papers which contain all the latest church news. Custom House On the same site on which stood the first public building ever erected in New York — old Fort Amsterdam — stands the new York Custom House. In this splendid building, New York possesses the largest and most beautiful custom house in the world. The building was designed by Cass Gilbert; it is of Maine granite, seven stories in height, and cost $4,500,00. It is embellished with a wealth of exterior decoration, the motives of which are found in the world-wide commerce of the United States, of which seventy-five 139 Si'-'^iii^^MM ro *nn^ I'lfi m'^jjifBti^ " 1 1 'f If ^ " ^3^^£ hS^V'irm S 3 (' ''''-E.M U3 j^ 'J5 ^ o >2 ' ♦f ^t^ iNf^ -PW o mi^ 94 V '^■HH OJ £f rt CQ s rt ^■^^H fTi '5 D i^iiiisiMMiyi per cent, enters through the port of New York. Dolphin masks, rudders, tridents, the caduceus of Mercury, the winged wheel, the conventionalized wave and other sug- gestions are of the sea and ships and trans- portation. A series of forty-four Corin- thian columns surrounding the building are crowned with capitals from which look out the head of _ Mercury, ancient god of com- merce; and in the keystones of the window arches are carved heads typical of the eight types of mankind — the Caucasian, with accessory of oak branches; Hindu, lotus leaves; Latin and Celt, grapes; Mongol, poppy; Eskimo, fur hood; coureur de bois, pine cones; African. Extending across the sixth floor of the Bowling Green fagadeis a series of twelve statues carved from Tennessee marble. The figures are of heroic size and represent twelve sea-faring powers, ancient and modem, which have had part in the com- merce of the globe. Passing into the Interior which is open to visitors from g to 3 are seen some beauti- ful Mural paintings depicting early his- torical scenes, describing this eventful spot, and the happenings that made it famous. It is reached by all the subways, elevateds and Broadway street cars and is well worth a visit. I4X The Best KnowTi Picture in the World— The Statue of Liberty The Statue of Liberty Entlightening THE World is on Bedloe's Island, in the Upper Bay, i H miles from the Battery. It is reached by steamboat, which leaves the Battery hourly, on the hour, and returns on the half-hour, from g A. M. to 5 P. M. One may obtain a satisfactory view of the ex- terior and return on the same boat, time from Battery and return three-quarters of an hour; if the ascent of the Statue is to be made, allow an hour and three-quarters. As it is easily the most widely known statue in the world and is printed more times every year than any art work ever yet produced it may be of some interest to Rive_ some particulars regarding its pro- portions. Ft. In. Height from base to torch 151 i Foundation of pedestal to torch. . . .305 6 Heel to top of head iii 6 Length of hand 16 5 Index finger 8 o Circumference at second joint 7 6 Size of finger nail 13x101 n. Head from chin to cranium 17 3 Head thickness from ear to ear. ... 10 o Distance across the eye 2 6 143 Ft. In. Length of nose 4 6 Right arm, length 42 Right arm, greatest thickness 12 o Thickness of waist 35 o Width of mouth 3 Tablet, length 23 7 Tablet, thickness 2 o Height of pedestal 89 o Square sides at base, each 62 o Square sides at top, each 40 o Grecian columns, above base 72 8 Height of foundation 65 o Square sides at bottom 91 Square sides at top 66 7 Our Wonderful Bridges The New York and Brooklyn Bridge, which spans the East River, connecting the Boroughs of Manhattan and Brooklyn, has its Manhattan terminal at the City Hall Park. The promenade is free; fare by trolley, s cents. To see the bridge, we should view it from the water, or walk across it. Only by actually going out upon the bridge may one gain any concep- tion of its tremendous construction. We shall find, too, a memorable prospect of river, and harbor and city, east over Brook- lyn, west and north over New York to the 145 Palisades. The ridge of high buildings on the lower end of Manhattan, as seen from the bridge in the afternoon, has much of the character of a mountain; its heights cast in shadow the district east of it, just as a mountain shadows the slopes and val- leys behind it long before the sun sets. If we go out to the middle of the river span, we shall have the novel experience of look- ing directly down upon the water craft 135 feet below. As seen from here, even the largest steamboat takes on an appearance curiously suggestive of a toy boat. The bridge was begun in 1870 and opened to traffic in 1883, having consumed thir- teen years in building, and cost $1 5,000, o( 0. Subsequent alterations have increased the cost to $21,000,000. It is justly considered one of the wonders of the world. The Manhattan Bridge spans the East River north of the Brooklyn Bridge. The river span is 1,470 feet, each land span is 725 feet, the Manhattan approach 2,067 feet, Brooklyn approach 1,868 feet — -total length of roadway 6,855 feet. The towers are ^,22 feet above mean high water mark. The cost was $24,000,000. The Willi.amsburg Bridge, from Wil- liamsburg, Brooklyn, to Grand street, Man- hattan, is the greatest suspension bridge in the world, with a channel span of 1,600 147 feet, a length of 7,200 feet between ter- minals, a height of 135 feet at the center and towers 335 feet. The bridge is 118 feet wide and carries four trolley and two cable tracks, two roadways and two foot walks. The cost was $12,000,000. The Qi'EENSBORO Bridge extends across the East River from East Fifty-ninth street, to Ravenswood, in the Borough of Queens. The clear height of the bridge above mean high water is 135 feet. The carrying ca- pacity is enormous. There are two floors the lower one 86 feet wide between railings, the upper one 67 feet. Its cost was ^20,- 000,000. Statue George III. The Equestrian Statue of George III shown in this book is reproduced from the original drawing made for The New York Historical Society by the noted military artist authority, Mr. Charles M. Lefferts of Plandome, L. I. _ IsTo authentic picture of this famous statue having come down to this genera- tion, Mr. Lefferts, after a study of several years of the original records of the Revolu- tionary period, was able from undisputed documents to create the picture of His Majesty George III. mounted on horseback, 149 The Best Known Picture in the World. The Statue of Liberty. On Bedloe's Island, presented to the American people by the French Nation in 1884. with absolute certainty as a true represen- tation of the original and it is here repro- duced with his kind permission for the first time in any publication. The story of this statue begins in June, 1766, when the Assembly of New York pro- vided for the erection of an equestrian statue of George III., also a statue of William Pitt, the champion of the American cause in the House of Commons. On June 3, 1770, the statues arrived in New York, having been executed by the noted sculptor, Joseph Wilton, of London. On August 16, 1770, the statue of the king was placed in the Bowling Green, facing the Fort Gate, with great ceremony. It was made of lead richly gilded, and was modeled after the famous equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius, in Rome, Italy, On July 9, 1776, it was destroyed by the citizens of New York and soldiers. Most oi. it was sent to Connecticut, where it was melt- ed into bullets for the American Army. Four pieces of the statue, including the tail of the horse, was ploughed up on the farm of Peter S. Coley at Wilton, Conn., in April. 1 87 1, and became the property of the New York Historical Society in 1878. The king's head, much disfigured, was taken by Cap- tain John Montressor, Chief Engineer of the British Army, and sent to England as an example ' ' of the infamous disposition of the Ungrateful people." The slab of the pedestal now also owned by The New York Historical Society, was taken to Paulus Hook, New Jersey, and in 1783 placed over the grave of Major John Smith of the 42d Royal Highland Regiment, who died July 25, 1783. In 1818, when Jer- sey City was graded, the slab was removed and used as stepping stone at the residence of Cornehus Van Voost, who in 1874 gave it to the Society, where, with parts of the statue and Mr. Leffert's picture, it may be seen on exhibition in the New York Room. Some Extra Valuable Sites The 2,500 square feet at the corner of Wall and Broad streets, occupied as part of the banking house site of J. P. Morgan & Co., is the most valuable property in the city. It is assessed at the rate of S4o,ooo a front foot. In the next most valuable sec- tion, at Thirty-fourth Street and Fifth Avenue, the two north corners are assessed at 517,000 a front foot, and the third most valuable district is at Forty-second Street and Fifth Avenue, where north corners are assessed at S 15,000 a front foot. According to figures of appraisers the Grand Central station is the most valuable property, its assessment being placed at §18,175,000. 153 Equitable BuildiiiR, Bioad\\a> l)ctween Liberty and Cedar Streets. Kepi'cscnts an invtbt incut of o\ n 20 niillioii dollars. Altman's store is not far behind, with a total assessed value of $14,450,000. Some other assessments are: 191S. Grand Central Station $18, 175,000 Flatiron Building 2,075,000 Woolworth Building 9,500,000 Biltmore Hotel 8,575,000 Holland House 1,525,000 Manhattan Hotel 3,850,000 McAlpin Hotel 9,450,000 Plaza Hotel 8,000,000 Waldorf-Astoria 13,135.000 Calumet Club 340,000 Union League $1,895,000 University Club 2,175,000 Hammerstein's Opera House. . 775,000 Strand Theatre 2,325,000 Taxes Rockefeller Heads Personal List The list of personal property assess- ments shows the unusual fact that in all Manhattan there are only seventy-five persons assessed on $200,000 or more. John D. Rockefeller at $5,000,000 heads the list, with James B. Ford second at $3,000,000. Andrew Carnegie, who formerly was as- sessed at $5,000,000, is not on the list at all, having taken refuge under the secured debt law. 155 Our New Municipal Building. Contains over 7000 city employees. James B. Ford, whose personal fortune ranks second in the assessment lists to that of John D. Rockefeller, inherited from his brother, J. Howard Ford, who died suddenly in New York last March. The brother's estate included the Stony Ford Stock Farm of over 1,000 acres at Goshen, N. Y. Mr. Ford is vice-president of the tJnited States Rubber Company and a director in many kindred corporations. Some of those assessed at $200,000 or more are: John D. Rockefeller $5,000,000 James B. Ford 3,000,000 Oliver H. Payne 600,000 Henry C. Frick 500,000 Cornelius Vanderbilt 500,000 Gertrude V. Whitney 500,000 WiUiam Ziegler, Jr 500,000 George Ehret 400,000 Jacob H. Schiff 400,000 P. M. Warburg 400,000 Alice G. Vanderbilt 400,000 Margaret O. Sage 320,000 Amos R. E. Pinchot 300,000 James Gordon Bennett 300,000 Edith S. Vanderbilt 250,000 James Speyer 200,000 T. F. Ryan 200,000 Henry Phipps 200,000 Total is $860,000,000. 157 Cathedral of St. John the Divine. This is the first chunh building to rival the fntiious cathcilrals in Kurope. Comnienoed in 1S'J2 and will probably be a century in building. There are in the whole city 73,ooo indi- viduals, estates and corporations assessed for $10,000 or more. The total assessment amounts to $860,000,000. Some of the more important estates as- sessed and the amounts at which they are valued are: B. Altman Ss, 000, 000 John H. Ford 5,000,000 George Westinghouse 5,000,000 George W. Vanderbilt 5,000,000 J. B. Haggin 5,000,000 J. P. Morgan 3.600,000 George A. Hearn 2,000,000 Alexander E. Orr 2,000,000 Mary E. Pinchot 1,000,000 Henry B. Hyde 1,000,000 John B. Carter 1,000,000 John L. Cadwalader 500,000 James M. Horton 500,000 Frederick T. Martin 500,000 Adolph M. Bendheim 500,000 Max E. Bendheim 500,000 T. D. Sullivan 300,000 Harris Fahnestock 300,000 Governor's Island the headquarters of the military Depart- ment of the East, is little over half a mile from the Battery. _ Besides officers' bar- racks, etc., it contains the antiquated Fort 159 Columbus, the circular structure erected in 1811, called Castle Williams, now used as a military prison and a landing-place and hangars for aerial craft. The Military Ser- vice Institution in one of the buildings on the island has a collection of war relics. Admission to Governor's Island is by pass, obtainable by writing to the post adjutant, Government Ferry, near South Ferry. Ellis Island near Liberty Island, is the landing-place for immigrants, where they are examined as to their eligibility for admission to the United States. The immigrants enter a big reception-room in the main building, where they are divided into groups. These pass before a corps of examining physicians, then before the immigrant inspectors, who question each person as to his purpose, :neans, character, etc. Visitors are ad- mitted to a balcony overlooking the room where they are received. Free ferry from the Battery. Photographing New York's tall sky scrapers is a very difficult matter techni- cally and the pictures we show in this work of modern buildings are due to the skill of Ir- ving Underhill, Brown Bros., George P. Hall, and others — all expert operators and clever, artistic workmen. They are copyrighted. 161 „ ^ el's:: E3_.^J^ , ^ Union Square Union Square lies between Broadway and Fourth avenue. Fourteenth and Seventeenth streets. Here southeast of the park stands H. K. Browne's bronze statue of Abraham Lin- coln. The curb bears the words of the Sec- ond Inaugural: "With malice towards none, with charity for all." Across the Square, the equestrian bronze statue of Washing- ton (by the same sculptor) stands close by the spot where General Washington was received by the citizens when he ehtered the city on its evacuation by the British, Nov. 2 5, 1783. Facing south on Broadway- is the statue of Lafayette, by Bartholdi, of Statue of Liberty fame, which was erected by French residents in 1876, with the dedication: "To the City of New York, France, in remembrance of sympathy in time of trial, 1870-71." The reference is to the period of the Franco-Prussian War. In the west of the Square is the James Fountain, designed by Dunndorf and given to the city by D. Willis James. It is a much admired bronze group of a mother and her two children. The fountain in the center of the Square flowed for the first time Oct. 14, 1842, on the occasion of the Croton Water Celebration, when a pro- cession seven miles long filed past it in re- 163 Franklin Simon & Co. Correct dress for Iwtli sexes. 5th Ave. & 38th St. Site of Old Waddell Mansion. view by Governor Seward. In season there is in the basin a fine display of water Hlies. Fourteenth Street leads west to Fifth Avenue and Sixth Avenue, and east to the Academy of Music and Tammany Hall. Tammany Hall, one of the best known political buildings in the country, a block and a half east of Union Square on 14th Street, is owned by the Tammany Society, a benevo- lent organization founded in 1789. It took the name from Tammany, a friendly and popular chief of the Delaware tribe of Indians; and it was this chief, who gave to one of the tribes for a totem the tiger, which was afterward adopted by the Tam- many Society. The Tammany Hall Gen- eral Committee is a political organization which occupies Tammany Hall as head- quarters; it is distinct from the Tammany Society, but is generally regarded as part of the original organization. This is the headquarters of the Democratic Party in the city. Madison Square Beautiful as a park, with its trees and lawns and fountain and statues, Madison Square is set amid distinguished surround- ings. In the northeast the Madison Square Garden, scene of the famous Stanford White shooting, lifts its graceful tower with the i6s A department store of national reputation — R. li. Alacy & Co., Broadway and 34th St. gilded Diana poised on the pinnacle. On the east is the Appellate Court House. The Madison Avenue Presbyterian Church (the pulpit of Dr. Charles H. Park- hurst) with its massive columned portico, tiled dome and gold lantern is in design and liberal use of color, more like a theatre than a church. It stands on the corner of Twenty-fourth Street surrounded by sky- scrapers. The Square is dominated by the Metro- politan Tower, one of the architectural wonders of the world, and by the Fuller Building, which stands at the 23d Street intersection of Broadway and Fifth Ave- nue, one of the most famous streets in the world. The building is popularly called the Flatiron, because the plot on which it stands is of flatiron shape, with the rounded point toward Madison Square. From viewpoints far up on Fifth Avenue the Flat- iron towers up impressively. The building, including site, cost $4,000,000. It is 300 feet high, with twenty stories, and 456 oflEices above the fourth floor. In the northeast corner of the Square is Bissel's bronze statue of Chester Alan Arthur, Twenty-first President of the United States of America. In the south- west, near Twenty-third Street, is the statue of ROSCOE CoNKLiNG, Senator from New 167 ' f^^ 1 1 ^^^^ :r — ^=^^:;',.j|g^^^-"- .,£he ^H^H^^BI p ^^ i -J The world renowned Wanamalcer Stores, Broadway from Asior Place to lotli Street. York, 1867-81. The figure is of bronze, by Ward, and represents the orator in the attitude so familiar to his audiences. The memorial was erected by friends on the spot where bewildered and overcome in the ter- rible blizzard of March 12, 1888, he fell exhausted, and suffered exposure which resulted in his death. The famous Madison Square Garden is on the northeast corner of the Square. This is the home of the Horse Show and of the Circus. It was on theroof of this building that Harry Thaw shot Stanford White. Fire Boats The city has ten of these boats. They are equipped with powerful machinery and are of tremendous hose capacity. Their mission is to quell fires in the shipping and on the water front. Steam is always up and everything is in readiness for instant response to the alarm which comes over the wire or is given by rapid, short blasts of a steamer's whistle. When a boat's siren answers the call and the boat starts away, i t is something to stir the blood even of one to whom a fire engine dashing through city . streets is an old story. At the battery stands a statue to John Ericsson (born in Sweden, 1803, died in 169 The Chamber of Commerce Building. New York, 1889") who invented the screw or propeller as applied to steam navigation in 1836-41. In 1863 he designed the turreted ironclad "Monitor," which met the Con- federate ram "Merrimac" in Hampton Roads, Va., March 9, 1863, and by its suc- cessful performance revolutionized naval warfare. The "Monitor" is represented in one of the panels of the pedestal. The City Hall This building is considered by architects and artists one of the most successful ex- amples of the Colonial School existing in our country today. It was completed in 1812, and succeeded the old Federal Hall standing on the corner of Wall Street and Nassau. It remains exactly as originally built except for the Cupola and Statue on top which was burned when the building caught fire during the celebration of the Atlantic Cable in 1S58. It is by far the most interesting public building in the city and is filled with delightful mementos of the past. It is built of white marble, but the rear wall is of freestone, for the builders of 18 12 surmised that the city would never go be- yond this. To-day the city limits are six- teen miles north. The Mayor's room is on 171 '**^ ?05 ^ r r ~ »•« ir •■ w «f ' t •» "• •■ :f? - ^ ;^ . *" 4f« jj ji_^ ^ - . the first floor. Under one of its windows on the outside is a tablet recording: "Near this spot, in the presence of General George Washington, the Declaration of Indepen- dence was read and published to the Ameri- can Army, July 9th, 1776." The halls of the Council and Assembly are on the second floor, and may be visited. The Governor's Room, originally intended for the use of the Governor of the State, is on the Second floor. Across the hall is a statue of Thomas Jefferson, by David d'Angers, a replica of the one in the Capitol at Washington. The Governor's Room, which is open to the public from 10 to 4 daily (Saturday to noon), contains Trum- bull's full-length equestrian portrait of General Washington, and a series of por- traits of New York's Governors and other worthies. That of Governor Dix, by Anna M. Lea, represents him as author of the historic dispatch sent by him as Secretary of the Treasury to Wm. Hemphill Jones in New Orleans, Jan. 29, 1861: "If any one at- tempts to haul down the American Flag, shoot him on the spot." An easel bears a Washington portrait woven in silk in Lyons, France, at a cost of Si 0,000. Here, too, are preserved the desk and table used by President Washington during his first term. The table is inscribed in letters of 173 Lord & Taylor's new building, sth Ave. and 38th Street. gold: "Washington's writing table, 1789." The fine old mahogany furniture is that which was used by the first Congress of the United States in Federal Hall, in Wall Street. Across Chambers Street is the S6,ooo,ooo Hall of Records, in which provision is made for the safe keeping of the depds of all the real estate of Manhattan Island. The exterior sculptures of the Hall by Bush-Brown and Macmonnies, include figures of Commerce, Industry, Naviga- tion, History, Poetry, Inscription, Preserva- tion, Law, Alaternity and Heritage; groups of the races — Indian, Dutch, English and Huguenot — which had part in the city's past ; and statues of twenty-four men promi- nent in its development. In front of the City Hall stands the Mac- monnies bronze statue erected by the So- ciety of the Sons of the Revolution in mem- ory of Nathan Hale, a Captain of the Reg- ular Army of the United States of America, who gave his life for his country in the City of New York, Sept. 22, 1776, a picture of which is shown on another page. An old time Chop House is Farrish's at 64 John Street. Fifty years ago it was famous, and still retains its popularity. I7S India House World trade, with all that the name carries of the mystic spell of foreign lands, the rich glory of South American beauty, the zephyrs and adventures of the South Seas, the deep enchantment of the Orient, has a home and centre in downtown New York. It is the first of its kind. It is the child of the present enthusiasm through the country for the broad extension of our horizon of commerce with far off lands. The home is to be a club. Its name will be India House. The name alone lifts the curtain of a century and more — '"India" — and a picture presents itself of the gorgeous wonders of the East that the daring and ability of the adventurous British merchantman opened up to make Great Britain the lead- ing trading nation of the earth. It brings a picture of the home of this romantic trade, the dignity and quiet solidity of East India House, in Leadenhall street, London, where much of British commercial success and power were born. New York has a foreign trade tradition, younger than that of London, but of ab- sorbing interest, that has not yet died. It has a tradition of stately clipper ships, of masses and tangles of rigging and ropes 177 ^'sa?*' -V. .:'«»:' i.,^'> * and masts and spars, that stuck above the tops of the attic roofs of the rted brick colonial houses along the East River front from Fulton street to the Battery. Old pictures of South Street give a good idea of this period and there are still many New Yorkers who can recall the time when a veritable forest of bowsprits formed a canopy all along this section of the city. The new home of the club is most ap- propriately selected. On another page we show the building as it appeared about 1850, when it was erected originally. It has always had tenants connected with shipping, was once the Cotton Exchange and more recently as the offices of W. R. Grace & Co. Many of the best known names in Ameri- can trade and commerce are already in- scribed on the membership rolls of India House. The officers are James A. Farrell, president; A. B. Johnson, E. N. Hurley, James R. Morse and Robert Dollar, vice- presidents; Willard Straight, secretary, and J. P. Grace, treasurer. On the board of governors, in addition to the officers, are W. E. Bemis, William H. Childs, E. A. S. Clarke. W. L. Clark, Col. Samuel P. Colt. E. P. Cronkhite, H. P. Davison, W. Cam- eron Forbes, P. A. S. Franklin, Lloyd C. Griscom, Joshua A. Hatfield, Charles E. 179 .^s Jennings, Waldo H. Marshall, James R. Morse, Frank Presbrey, Welding Ring, W.L. Saunders, W. D. Simmons, E. P. Thomas, F. A. Vanderlip, J. G. White and A. H. Wiggin. What Our Street Car and Subway- Systems Have Done to Promote Efficiency A complete private telephone system, consisting of 1550 telephones, 8000 miles of cable; handling 16,000 calls daily. A force of highly trained and efficient workers, provided with well appointed training schools for mental development and with welfare departments for the phys- ical and moral development; a military band of 1 17 pieces; dramatic clubs; a private baseball park and tennis court; a baseball league of 8 clubs; football teams; recreation rooms with shower baths, terminal restau- rants, etc.; Sunshine committees; a system of provision stores, mutual benefit associa- tions, and an em.ployes' monthly magazine. New York adds about 140,000 to its popu- lation each year. It will cost $198,989,786.52 to run New York in 1915. 181 The Restaurants of New York For years the restaurants of New York have enjoyed a popularity and a reputation all their own. In fact in some parts of the city — notably the Great White Way which is that part of Broadway lying between 34th and 54th Streets, the restaurants play a conspicuous part in the night life of the big towTi, Here may be found food of every Nationality and every variety. In this particular part of the city there is no special catering for strictly French, Itahan or German cooking. You can get anything your palate may suggest and in abundance. In other parts of the city the tastes of cer- tain of our foreign population are carefully studied and specialties of exclusively for- eign origin are served. Within the last year or so most of the Broadway houses provide entertainment as well as food and their Cabaret shows are of a high standard of excellence. In addition to singing and vaudeville provision is also made for dancing. This craze has evident- ly come to stay and few even of the largest hotels are now without their professional dancing masters who supervise the floor and overlook the dancers. The rooms set apart for this amusement are delightfully decorated, brilliantly lighted and the music 183 is of the highest order. There is no deny- ing that dancing, music with dinners, cab- aret entertainments, etc., etc., have done much to make an evening pass rapidly and enioyably in the city and no stranger need feel time hang heavily on his hands whose tastes at all run that way. The best value in the dining direction is undoubtedly the table d'hote. Quite a number of restaurants make a specialty of the latter for $i.oo, some with wine and others without. From that it runs as low as 6sc. and as high as $2.50. These restaurants are scattered all over town and usually advertise their offerings in the papers. From these announcements you can easily pick out one that is nearest your location and rest assured that it will be good value. To sum up, the table d' hote is the cheapest considering quality and quantity; but the Carte du Jour has other and perhaps greater attractions for some persons. Taking for granted therefore, that the eating i tself is bound to be satisfactory the only question that remains is. How much do you want to spend? At Sherry's, Delmonico's, the Biltmore, the Vanderbilt, the Belmont, the St. Regis, the Plaza, the Waldorf, the Knickerbocker, the Astor, Holland House, Imperial, Ritz Carlton, the Manhattan, Netherlands, etc., the prices 185 while reasonable for what they serve would not be recommended for visitors with a limited pocketbook. They enjoy a cHen- tele to whom quality and service come first and the cost afterward. At the same time a visit to either one of them as part of your trip to New York can be made without bankruptcy as a necessary consequence and they are well worth seeing. Something about Skyscrapers New York is the birthplace of the sky- scraper. Only this year (19 14) was there destroyed the Tower, the first building at 50 Broadway which successfully demon- strated the value of this new idea in architecture. A tablet to the honor of the designer adorned this building. A later and more impressive building will arise on the site of the first ten story baby sky- scraper which marked the beginning of the new school in building. While the same idea has been carried out in many other cities, the skyscraper in New York, its native land, is still the last word in this direction. These buildings grew out of the concen- tration of business and the ever-insistent demand for business office room in the close- ly congested business centers. The sky- scraper provides business opportunity for » 187 Leonard Jeiome's house first home of the Union League Chib, i860. Madison Ave. & 26tli^bt. a thousand, two thousand, ten thousand, where without it there would be room only foras many hundreds. _ It added immensely to the value of the limited real estate on the island. Two factors have made it possible — the passenger elevator, which gives im- mediate access to the upper stories, and the steel cage system of construction, which enables the architect to design his building to any desired height. The steel cage is a framework of steel beams, bolted together with hot rivets. In effect it is a bridge set on end. The walls are simply weather shields, fastened to it. Under the old system the walls supported the floors; in the new buildings, the walls serve merely as curtains to shut out the weather, and are themselves supported by girders which project at the levels of the floors. The steel frame goes up first, and the walls are put on afterwards; sometimes the upper stories are walled in before the lower ones. Under the old system of supporting walls, buildings were limited to eight or ten stories; the steel cage goes up twenty and fifty stories, and the architects tell us that there are no mechanical obstacles to buildings of lOO stories. With steel beams and steel ceiling arches, concrete floors and stone and metal stairways, the structures are considered to be fireproof. 189 ^ » 1 M gl^K 1 ^^^v^T^tT^J^ 1 w.:. „. ^-^^:-^ J 1 Some of the greatest engineering achieve- ments in their construction are below the ground, in the foundations contrived to sustain the prodigious superstructures. , The foundations go down to bedrock, in some instances more than lOO feet below the surface. A curious effect of the skyscrapers is the influence the mass of steel in their frames has on the compasses of the shipping in the harbor. Commanders of steamers at Ho- boken say their compasses show a differ- ence of as much as seven degrees in leaving their docks, which lessens as they get down the_ bay, but some pilots assert that the variation is notable as far out as the turn in the Gedney Channel. The steel caissons are sunk to bedrock and supported by brick piers. The wind pressure, the weight, and all other mechani- cal details are carefully worked out on the plans and the structure reared accordingly. Some of these buildings contain a popu- lation equal to a good sized country town. More than 7,500 are in the Municipal Building, while the Metropolitan, contains even more. All of them have populations running well over the thousands. Not a few have a number of floors underground filled with stores and connecting with sub- ways leading everywhere. With this are 191 also a number of other conveniences — bootblacks, barbers, post offices, baths, doctors, dentists, telegraph and telephone, dining rooms, lunch counters. In short the modern New York skyscraper is a small city in itself. The tallest skyscraper is the Woolworth Building, which occupies the entire block front on Broadway from Park Place to Barclay Street. It has fifty-five stories and rises to a height of 793 K feet above the Barclay Street entrance. It is the highest inhabited building in the world. The Best Known Street in the World— WaU Street When the Dutch settled New York, their farms and gardens were frequently injured by black bears, wild boars, wolves and other predatory animals which came in from the North. Later on, Indians also became troublesome. Finally Governor Stuyve- sant ordered a wall of staves built across the island in 1653, the cost to be defrayed by all of the citizens. The walls or stockade, extended along the East River, from near the present head of Coenties Slip, on the north line of Pearl Street, crossing the fields to the North River, on the present north side of Wall 193 ,,,11115 E!i II 11 eg „ '"' il h<- laiiKui.-: 5th Avenue Buildmt;, corner i;i.>ail\vay and 5tli Ave., where Col. Thomoson's road house stood, 1853. Street (whence its name), and then along the North River to the fort, just east of Greenwich Street, which was then under water. In digging the foundation of the new Bowling Green offices, s-ii Broadway, in igio, a large number of these old posts were found many feet under the surface. Although nearly 250 years old, the portions found were in a wonderful state of preserva- tion. From the very beginning. Wall Street has been of the first importance. Here stood all the early public buildings. Feder- al Hall, the Custom House, the Assay Office, the Merchant's Exchange, the Ton- tine Coffee House — father of all the ex- changes — the Post Office, etc., etc. It was also the scene of the trial of Peter Zenger, whose triumphant acquittal secured for the colonies freedom of the press as we have al- ready described. But it is as a financial Centre that its greatest fame rests. On the corner of Broad Street is the largest private banking house in the world, J. P. Morgan & Co. Across the street in Broad Street is the Stock Exchange. Facing the Wall Street entrance of the latter is the imposing structure of the Bankers' Trust Co., directly opposite the Sub-Treasury. The great firm of Kuhn, Loeb & Co., who recreated the Union 195 Pacific in conjunction with the late E. H. Harriman is nearby. The First National Bank, known as "Fort Sherman" — from its close connection with Secretary Sherman and the resumption of specie payment — is on the Broadway corner. Famous old Trinity standsatthehead. TheUnited States Assay Office, James Speyer & Co., the great National City Bank, the Bank of New York, the Bank of the Manhattan Co., and dozens of others of world wide reputation are all embraced in a space of a very few short blocks of this famous thorough- fare. It is one of the narrowest and shortest streets in the country being about 30 feet wide in its busiest part and scarcely half a mile long, yet it transacts more im- portant business than any other similar circumscribed area in the world. Visitors can see the interior of the Stock Exchange where over three million shares of stock have changed hands in one day by application to any member who will gladly furnish tickets. \\Tiat Transient Visitors Spend The railway traffic in and out of New York City daily averages 493,000 people on 2340 trains. Many thousand more come 197 ' ' III 1 F -i-l '-ijcnj ' i Lin 111 t "iff 1 Hotel Manhattan, corner Madison Avenue and 42nd Street by boat and the automobile traffic is in- creasing. The daily commuting traffic is about 150,000, so that the incoming and outgoing transients will aggregate approximately 300,000 daily — but the average number of out-of-town visitors in the city all the time is 200,000. It is estimated that the average stay of the 200,000 is four and a half days, and their daily expenditures are estimated as fol- lows: Dinner $520,000 Lodging, with other meals 800,000 Shopping 320,000 Theatres 200,000 Side Trips 280,000 $2,120,000 Average individual daily expenditure, about Sio. The average daily number of arrivals at a big Broadway hotel runs about like this: Monday 450 names Tuesday 550 Wednesday 550 Thursday 450 " Friday 375 Saturday and Sunday are the dullest days of the week with about 300 names for each day. A total of about 3000 names for 199 Looking North, Broadway, showing St. Paul s Church. Post Office. Haan's Restaurant in Park Row Building, and Woohvorth BuUduig. the week for one hotel. This average con- tinues steady from September i, to the following 4th of July. The average at the Waldorf-Astoria from September i to July i, is 450 names daily. The average number of guests is 1000, but this often reaches 1800. At the Astor, Knickerbocker or McAlpin, the daily aver- age registrations are 300 to 450 with a total of 700 to 800 guests in the hotel all the time. These hotels, of course, only represent the cream. Thousands of people prefer the smaller and quieter hotels, of which there are more than 1200, to say nothing of hun- dreds of transient boarding houses. There are 215 hotels in New York with fifty rooms or more of which the following statistics are interesting: — Assessed valuation $153,054,500 Value furnishings 21,000,000 Daily running expense 150,700 Employees 42,000 Total number rooms S3, 000 Daily guests 80,000 It is estimated that all the hotels in New York employ 85,000 people and cost $100,000,000 yearly to operate. New York, in its capacity to accommodate strangers, exceeds Chicago 15 to i; Boston, 25 to i; Philadelphia, 35 to i; and Cincin- nati, 100 to I. 201 The Financial Heart of the Country in the New York Clearing House In times of great financial stringency much is heard of the Clearing House — that great institution which regulates and con- trols the financial destinies of the country. It is perhaps the most important link in the chain of finance which binds together the commercial world and it acts as guard- ian and protector in emergency as in the great panic of 1907. It stands on Cedar Street near Broad- way, and occupies a building which is one of the handsomest in 5s'ew York. In design and adornment, _ the _ white marble structure is in fit keeping with the dignity and importance of an institution whose daily transactions are regarded as a barometer o'^ the financial condition of the country. The cost was $1,100,000. Visit- ors are not admitted. The Clearing House Association compris- es forty-eight banks and fifteen trust com- panies (these representing also numerous others), which meet here to settle their ac- counts with one another. In the course of its business, each one of the banks receives checks and drafts drawn against some or all of the others. Instead of each one send- ing to collect these checks from the others, 203 City In\estiiig Buildiii„oii Broadway between Cortlandtand Liberty biiLLtb, 1914 all the banks come together in the Clearing House and turn in the ckecks drawn on each. _ After a system of exchange, a bal- ance is struck and the sum is ascertained which each bank must pay in or which must be paid to it to clear its account. By this system of paying differences it is prac- ticable to settle enormous accounts in a way extremely simple and expeditious and involving the actual payment of amounts which are comparatively small. Thus for the year igi2 the average daily clearing (i.e., the sum of the checks presented by all the banks) were $319,050,407, while the av- erage daily balance, paid in cash, were $16,670,832, or 5.22 per cent. The clerks representing the banks meet in the Clearing House at ten o'clock, and the balances are ascertained by 12.30. _ A bank which is a debtor to the Clearing House must pay its balance by 1.30 of the same day, either in cash or Clearing House certificates. Banks which are creditors receive checks for the balance due them the same day. The Chamber of Commerce One of the noted buildings in New York is a massive pile of white marble, in the Renaissance style, with decorations in 205 A. Jaeckel & Co., Furriers, No. 384 5th Avenue Shopping District. bronze. This is the home of New York's great Chamber of Commerce. Between the columns are statues of Alexander Hamilton by Martini, De Witt Clinton by- French, and John Jay by Bitter, and above the entrance are groups symbolical of Commerce. The vestibule admits to a monumental hall and broad stairway of Caen stone. Admission is by card of a member. The Chamber is a magnificent apartment ninety feet long, sixty feet in width and thirty feet high. It is lighted through an enormous skylight in the ceil- ing; and the walls, unbroken to a height of twenty feet, are hung with the Chamber's large collection of portraits of New York merchants. _ The Chamber of Commerce, organized in 1768, is an association of merchants which concerns itself with ques- tions affecting domestic and foreign com- merce, the welfare of the city and national interests. It has had large influence in the development of the port of New York and the city's growth and commercial expansion. The annual dinner given by the Chamber of Commerce, like the Lord Mayor's banquet in London, is made the occasion of semi-public utterances on great national questions of the day. 207 The Titanic Memorial Lighthouse Surmounting the twelve-story building of the Seaman's Institute, South Street and Coenties Slip, is a memorial to those who perished in the Titanic tragedy of April 15, 191 2. At the dedication, addresses _ de- clared the Lighthouse Tower to be "given in memory of the engineers who sent their stokers up on deck while they went to cer- tain death ; of the membersof the heroicband of musicians who played even while the water crept up to their instruments; of the postal clerks who bravely put duty ahead of personal safety; of the Marconi operator; of the officers and crew who staid by their ship. It is given in memory of those in the steerage who perished without ever realiz- ing their hopes of the new land, the America of endless possibilities. It is given in memory of all the heroic deeds by first and second cabin passengers. In short, it is a monument to every person without regard to rank, race, creed or color, whose life went down when the giant vessel slipped be- neath the waves." The Seaman's Institute, which this me- morial forms the crowning structure is an organization to look out for Jack ashore. It performs well its duties and one of its particular duties is to get Jack to "Write 209 Hardman Peck & Co.'s first Piano Factory in Macdougal Street loolved lilie tills in 1836. Home." In every room a huge placard stares the roving sailor with this adtnoni- tion and it does effective service in this par- ticular. Where Washington Took Farewell of His Officers Fraunces' Tavern, on the southeast corner of Broad and Pearl streets, contains on the second _ floor the famous "long room," in_ which General Washington took affecting leave of his officers and aides Dec. 4, 178,5, before proceeding to Congress to surrender his commission. The Tavern was built in 1700. It was opened as a tavern by Samuel Fraunces in 1762. The building has been restored by the vSons of the Revolution to its original proportions. The first floor is still a tavern; or more properly speaking a modern restaurant where good meals can be obtained by the stranger. The second floor contains a dis- play of historical relics. Next to the Juniel Mansion this building is more closely associated with the memory of Washington than any other on the island, and is the mecca of many a patriotic pil- grimage. The Chamber of Commerce was organized here in 1756, and the Tavern 211 was the scene of many spirited meetings by the Sons of Liberty prior to the Revolu- tion. The Shopping District Aside from its artistic and historic value, this little volume is also intended to be of practical use to the stranger in New York; to point out the many attractions, com- forts, novelties and places of interest which tend to make a visit enjoyable. As many of our readers have heard much about the great stores of New York, wewill com- mence with a short sketch of its famous shopping districts. Fifth Avenue from Madison Square to Central Park is now a very important re- tail section. The cross streets from Madi- son Avenue west to Broadway are always included as part of this same district. Broad- way from Astor Place to Grace Church in- cludes the great Wanamaker stores, com- prising a retail section by itself, with subway station, and street cars connecting with all parts of the city. From 14th Street west to Sixth Avenue and north on Sixth Avenue to 34th Street is another famous region. This includes J. B. Greenhut's great shops O'l both sides of Sixth Avenue at i8th Street. Simpson-Crawford's, Cammeyer's, Alexand- 213 The old sLoie ol Jos. Wild &. Co., im- porters of Oriental Rugs and Carpets in Worth vStreet, 1870. Now at 5th Ave. & 3Sth St. Established 1852 er's, Gimbel's, Saks', Macy's and others. It may truly be said that nowhere else in the world are found such magnificent buildings devoted to retailing, such alluring shop win- dows, or such a profuse_ display of costly merchandise. The handicraft of the lead- ing artisans of the world in all lines is here displayed to the buyer from every part of the country. For New York depends not only on its home trade, but also upon the half million visitors or more who come here every day for a long or short sojourn. And so well do its merchants realize this fact, that special shipping facilities are at the constant service of the passing stranger. The same courteous and liberal treatment in the matter of exchanges, refunds, etc., which is provided for the regular every-day patron is also extended to the non-resident customer. Many of our firms enjoy a national repu- tation. All have the confidence of the home folks. Among so many desirables, it is hard to make a selection, and only the limits of our space curtail the list. The following houses will be found among the most important in the Fifth Avenue sec- tion. They are grouped under their respect- ive callings: 215 Murray Street, Dr. Mason's Church, 1825. Departmenl Stores R. n. INlacy & Co. Gimbel Brothers Saks & Company Hearn's Dry Goods B. Altman & Co. J. M. Giddings & Co. Lord & Taylor Stern Bros. Jas. McCreery & Co. Arnold, Constable & Co. Women's Apparel Bonwit Teller & Co. Stewart & Co. Mary Anderson Warner Oppenheim, Collins & Louise it Co. Co. Alice Maynard Franklin Simon & Co. Children's Outfitters Best & Co. Jewelers Tiffany & Co. Marcus & Co. Black, Starr «& Frost Schumann's Sons. Gorham & Co. Dreiser and Company Tecla Reed and Barton Fredericks IMerriden Brittania Co. T. Kirkpatrick & Co. Furriers A. Jaeckel & Co. C. G. Gunther Sons Leather Goods and Trunks Mark Cross Crouch & Fitzgerald Men's Clothing Rogers Peet & Co. Brill Bros. Brooks Bros. Smith Gray & Co. Brokaw Bros. Weber & Heilbroner Wallach Bros. _, F. A. O. Schwartz ~: Sporting Goods X. G. Spaulding&Bros. Wright & Ditson Ambercrombie & Fitch 217 Steinvvay and Sons' first Piano Factory as it stood iu Walker Street in 1858. Principal Theatres and Amusement Places Academy of Music — E. 14th St. & Irving PI. Alhambra — 7th Ave., 126th St. American — Eighth Ave., 42th St. Astor — Broadway and 45th St. Belasco — 44th St., near Broadway. Berkeley Lyceum — 19 W. 44th St. Broadway— 'Qvoa.d.wa.y, 41st St. Carnegie Lyceum — 5 7th St. & 7th Ave. Carnegie Music Hall — 5 7th St. & 7th Ave. Casino — Broadway, sgth St. Century — Eighth Ave. and 5 2d St. Circle — Broadway and 60th St. Cohan's — Broadway, 43d St. Collier's — 41st St., east of Broadway. Colonial — Broadway and 6 2d St. Comedy — 41st St. bet. B'way & 6th Ave. Cort — 48th St., east of Broadway. Criterion — Broadway, 44th St. Daly's — Broadway, 30th St. Eden Musee — West 23d St., near 6th Ave. Eltinge—236West 42d St. Empire — Broadway, near 40th St. Fifth Avenue — Broadway, near 28th St. Forty-eighth St. — 48th St., east of B'way. Fulton — W. 46th St., near Broadway. Gaiety — 46th St. and Broadway. Garden — Madison Ave., 27th St. Garrick — 35th St., near 6th Ave. 219 Globe — Broadway, 46th St. Grand Central Palace — Lex. Av. 46th St. Grand Opera House — 23d St., 8th Ave. Hackett — West 4 2d St. Hammerstein's — Broadway, 42d St. Harlem Opera House — i2Sth St. Harris— West 4 2d St. Herald Square — Broadway, 35th St. Hippodrome — Sixth Ave. and 43d St. Hudson— W. 44th St. Irving Place — Irving Place. Keith's — 14th St., near Broadway. Knickerbocker — Broadway, at 38th St. Lenox Lyceum — E. 59th St. Lexington Opera House — Lex. Ave., s8th St. Liberty — West 4 2d St. Lincoln Square — 1947 Broadway. Little — 44th St., west of Broadway. Longacre — 48th St., west of Broadway. Lyceum — 45th St., near Broadway. Lyric — 43d St., near 7th Ave. Madison Sq. Garden — Madison Av., 26th St. Majestic — -59th St. and Broadway. Manhattan — West 34th St. Maxine Elliott's — 39th St., near B'way. Metropolis^E. 14 2d St. and Third Ave. Metropolitan Opera House — B'way, 40th St. Murray Hill — Lexington Ave., 42d St. New Amsterdam — 42d St., 7th Ave. New York — Broadway, 44th St. Palace — Broadway, 47th St. 'I lie Store of Al)rali:tm iS: Strauss in lower I'ullon Strcot, Hrooklyn, i.-stahlished 18O5, Now occupy a whole bloek in heart of shopping district. Playhouse — 48th St., east of Broadway. Princess — 29th St. and Broadway. Proctor's — (i) 23d St. (2) 58th St. (3) B'way and 28th St. (4) E. 125th St. Republic — West 42d St. Savoy — 34th St. and Broadway. Strand — Broadway and 48th St. Stuyvesant— W est 44th St. Thirty-ninth Street — 39th St., nr. B'way. Victoria^Broadway and 42d St. Vitagraph — 'Broadway and 43d St. Wallick's — Broadway, 30th St. Weber's — Broadway, 29th St. West £«J— 125th St., 8th Ave. Winter Garden — 50th St. and Broadway. ART GALLERIES AND MUSEUMS. American Museum of Natural History — American Water Color Society — For time and Place of exhibitions see daily papers. Metropolitan Museum of Art. New York Public Library — Paintings, books, prints, etc. National Academy of Design. Van Cortlandt Mansion. The Aquarium — Battery Park. N. Y. Historical Society — 77th & Central Park West. Moving Picture Shows are scattered throughout the city in every section, and range in price from 5 cents to 25 cents, though special attractions are as high as 50 cents, 223 How to Save Time Seeing the City While New York is a large city there are few places where the transportation facili- ties are so convenient and where they are so rapid. Subway and Elevated stations appear almost every half dozen blocks while street cars and Fifth Avenue stages can be had at every comer. Taxicabs are also fairly reasonable but it is wise to ar- range in advance regarding the charge for the latter. Hacks and hansoms are in the same category. The legal fare is not ex- cessive but the demands of the drivers frequently are. In case of a dispute do not argue with the latter but order him to drive to the nearest police station where the matter will be adjusted. Arrangements for automobiles are more satisfactory but of course much more ex- pensive. There are several reliable com- panies operating the latter but it is always better to have an understanding with them also regarding charges. Disputes are dis- agreeable and can be avoided by adopting the suggestion above. If time permits there is no way in which the city can be seen better than by walking. The next best thing is a seat on top of the Fifth Avenue coaches. They traverse a most interesting part of the city and the experi- 225 : -■ ■ ■ .-, l t i - 1 i i Wm ence rivals the famous London busses, a ride on which no experienced traveller misses. The elevated and street cars are also interesting but for obvious reasons can- not compare to the top of a bus. For the benefit of those who have time and inclination to walk we append a list of interesting places laid out in sections. The start to all of these is at the end of either a subway or elevated and can be reached quickly from any part of town. Then you may begin the journey a-foot. As this table covers immense distances it may be well to divide the trip somewhat. Broadway for instance, is fifteen miles long. If you want to see the biggest skyscrapers, begin at Bowling Green — a station of the subway. The "Great White Way" is three miles further north on Broadway. When you are through with the skyscraping sec- tion which ends at City Hall, get in the subway for the Great White Way and get out at Times Square and go south to 34th Street. The other districts should be trav- eled in the same way. Any hotel clerk will tell you what stations to get out at or enter. 2. Broadway. Skyscrapers, Trinity and Grace Churches, Union Sq., Madison Sq., Greeley Sq., Herald 227 lypical OlVirc I'.ml.ling in tlir Financial District. Sq,. "Great White Way," Times Sq 24 Fifth Avenue. Washington Sq. and Arch, New York PubUc Li- brary, St. Patrick's Cathedral, Plaza, Residential Section 40 Battery and Bowling Green. Cus- tom House, Produce Exchange, Battery Park, Governor's laland. Liberty Statue, Ellis Island, Aquarium 52 Bowling Green to Wall Street. Stock Exchange, Sub-Treasury, Assay Office, Financial District, Fraunces' Tavern 59 Wall to Fulton Street. Clearing House, Chamber of Commerce, Insurance and Jewelry Districts. Fulton to Chambers Street. Post Office, Printing House So., City Hall Park, Hall of Records, Mu- nicipal Building, Leather District. 70 Chambers to Canal Street. Civic Center, Tombs and Criminal Courts, Ivlulberry Bend, China- town, Hudson River Day Line. 75 Canal to Houston Street. Ghetto, Bowery, Bradstreet's, Police Headquarters 84 Houston to 14th Street. Cooper Union, Greenwich Village 89 22g kX^pm ■»..* -uj.