<^ THE ACCEPTANCE, QUEEN VICTORIA, OF THIS VOLUME, ILLUS TR ATIN a A PICTURESQUE ENGLISH COUNTY, IS HUMBLY SOLICITED Id |er llnjcstfi's |aitljful .Subject, THE AUTHOR. ^^^.s- Jr. . I WYE BKIDGK, HKIiEFOUD. 'Nor distant far, the stout Old Bridge appears, Withstanding flood and storm three hundred years. Its arches, rough, yet sturdy all now seem ; And jealous of the piers high up the stream, Would to the rival fabric slily say — ' We shall be s^tidng, when you arc in decay.'" Herefojidia.— Canto 11. H E R E F R D I A JAMES HENRY JAMES, A/u/dle Temple. LONDON: EDWARD LACEY, 434, WEST STRAND. MI )('(•(' I. xr. 4^ LONDON: WERTHF.IMEU AN!) CO, rmNTIttS, CIKCUS I'LACIC, FlNi-nURV. PREFACE. Herefordshire, by its historical associations, its beautiful sceiiery, so delightfully intercepted by the picturesque and winding river, the Wye, at all times claims the admiration of travellers. The highly cultivated soil, rich with orchards, hop-yards, and catde, adds greatly to its importance as an agricultural district. These natural advantages, united with the truly hospitable character of its inhabitants, render it a most agreeable place of sojourn to strangers, who cannot fail to be interested in rural scenery, and in the pleasant and peaceful occupation of the resident population. Whilst the County thus enjoys an unrivaUed position amongst the other districts of the ancient Siluria, and indeed amongst the most favoured parts of all England, the many eminent persons (either natives, or closely alHed with it), who are and have been identified with hterature, science, art, and with her ecclesiastical institutions, make it not unworthy of commemoration in a special form. The Author has attempted this pleasing yet not easy task ; but the spirit which has prompted him will, he trusts, cause the many defects, too palpable in the working up of its varied subjects, to be considerately overlooked. vi PREFACE. The difficulties inherent to poetic composition, when applied to objects which embrace not only scenes in Nature, but also historical facts, local allusions, names and dates, will be readily appreciated by the reader. These, it is hoped, may be taken as an apology for the apparent want of connection between, and the somewhat awkward blending of, the matters consecutively discussed in the Cantos which compose the Poem, of which the Author now ven- tures the publication. But he cannot do so without tendering his best acknowledgements to his valued friend, the Rev. Albert Jones, M.A., Minor Canon of the Cathedral, for his kind assistance in procuring for him several of the drawings for the Historical Illustrations, as well as the Notes relating to them. Whilst adhering to the History of Hereford, as the leading thread of the Poem, the aim has been throughout, to render it accept- able to general as well as local readers, by the introduction of subjects associated with rural life, and also by relieving the heroic metre (in Avhich the principal portion of the text is written), by the occasional adoption of lyrical measures. The Author must not omit to express to Mr. Freudemacher, Artist, and Messrs. Wertheimer, Printers, his approval of the very able man- ner in which they have seconded his efforts in the Illustrations and Typography of the Volume, to make it not unworthy of his native county. MtDDi.K Ti-.Mn.K, Jan. \-^///, 1H61. CONTENTS. Dedication Introductory Stanzas Canto I. Canto II. . Canto III. Canto IV. Canto V. . Canto VI. Notes to the Poem Notes to the Illusti'ation.'- PACK, I 3 7 24 44 65 ^^ lor 121 1^2 LANDSCAPE ILLUSTRATIONS. Wye Bridge, Hereford The Castle Green Cathedral and Lady ChajDel The Preaching Cross, Blackfriars The White Cross The River Wye, from the Prospect at Ross Goodrich Court, and Goodi-ich Castle Town Hall, Hereford Tintern Abbey ..... Ludlow Castle . - , . . ARMORIAL BEARINGS, RELICS, c\:c. St. Ethelbert's Shrine, or Pyx . Arms of the City of Hereford . Arms of the Bishopric, prior to the time o Arms of the Bishopric, since Cantilupe Arms of the Deanery Seal of the College of Vicars Choral The Crosier of Bishop Trelleck, and Bull c The Brass Statuette at the College Arms of the Author .... f Cantilupt f Pope Clemen \ I. Frontispiece, 14 56 46 7^ 88 ro8 12 I i.^o i5« itle Page. 7 4.^ 65 85 lOI I ^ : Familiar with the scenes my youth had known, Thou mad'st my thoughts and feelings all thine o\\n Thee, whom to kno^^- was but to see and love ; Thee, whom to love was but a joy to prove. That joy none holds, save He, w^ho now doth bless His humble creature Avith such happiness ; The happiness which warms a husband's heart. The sympathy which prompts a parent's part : And next to thee and thine, my former home (The which to picture in this modest tome My pen hath tried) commands a child's sweet care, LeaA-ing many a sweet remembrance there ! This then accept, a token of my love, A poor thank-offering to the Power above. Who so far on our earthly pilgrimage, For us, hath deign'd His mercies to engage I ^'Y-,. SiLURiA, our fathers' cherish'd home, Where fought invincible, through wounds and death, Britannia's hardy sons, defying Rome, Her galhng chains, and slavery's hated breath ! Land of the brave, where drawn from ancient sheath, The sword of freedom met a hostile world, Her bands all led Caradoc's arm beneath, Nor vainly strove, where'er his flag unfurl'd. And shedding life for life, he back th' invader hurl'd. HEREFORDIA. II. Herefordia, favour'd part of that blest land, We and our children hold through years of peace; Abode of industry, where Nature's lavish hand Doth give to labour hundred-fold increase : The region, too, where now in joy and ease, Religion bids us use the treasures given. As trusts for those, whose wants we should appease. The poor and meek; who oft by trouble driven. May lack the things of earth, but not the wealth of heaven ! HI. Rashly, in vain, with feeble hand and lyre. Untuned to strains befitting such sweet theme, To sing thy beauties doth my muse aspire, A task most grateful, though it unwise seem, Fruitless as ends the sage's frequent dream. Yet as a parent eyes a much loved child. Hiding a fault in virtue's brighter beam, Hiou must regard the poet's venture wild, Praising the thought, e'en if his work doth i)rove unskill'd ! SUBJECT. Contemplation. — Morning on the Plinlimmon Mountains. — Source of the River Wye, its Descent to Rhayader, its Course by Penybont, Glasbury, Hay, Clifford and Whitney, into the County of Hereford. — And by way of Clifford, Hereford, Goodrich, Tintern, and Chepstow, to join the River Severn.— The peaceful Condition of the Country and its pleasant Villages and Churches. — Allusions to Owen Glendwr and Henry V. — The City of Hereford, the Old Castle, and its defence against the Parliamentary Troops in the Time of Charles I. — The Castle- Green, River, Bridge, Dinedor Hill. — A Summer Storm as seen from Dinedor. — The Mutability of Worldly Grandeur. — Allusion to the prevailing Spirit to restore and sustain our Ancient Temples devoted to Divine Worship. — Tjie joyous Character of Rural Life. — The Sportsman's Song. Hail, Herefordia ! clothed with hill and plain. Where grateful peace, and smiling plenty reign A paradise, where clustering orchards bloom, And pear and apple blush Avith soft perfume, (larden of flowers ! where hop on slender bine And damask rose with honeysuckle twine. Land of beauty ! where garner'd riches crown I'he labour of man's hand with fruit its own. HEREFORDIA. II. Hail, Herefordia ! Freedom's charm'd retreat, Where mind and mind in kind communion meet, All free to think and act, aloud express That which but makes a Briton's happiness, Personal independence ; this, to move Here none would rashly try, below, above : Not the least fair of England's fair domain, ■ Where Ceres triumphs with her golden train ! III. Hail, Herefordia ! damsel coy and bright. With cheek of roses, eye of piercing light. Thee, modest, joyous, e'en the wanderer loves To greet in cottage, hall, or sylvan groves, (ren'rous of heart, sedate in torm and face, There shine alike thy kindliness and grace. Apt with sweet words, whose truth and eloquence Bespeak thy candour, purity, and sense. HEREFORDIA. IV. Hail, Herefordia, hail ! The welcome warm Thou bid'st thy children, and the matchless charm, Which Nature to thy landscape doth impart, Delight the eye, felicitate the heart. The aids thou giv'st to impotence and age, The charities thy liberal hand engage, Mark the best feelings of humanity, The founts of holy love that never die. V. Lo ! Morning dawns ; bright o'er the arc are traced Faint streaks of crimson from the opening East. Then, hie Thee, rambler, where, all robed in snow, Plinlimmon's rugged heights resplendent glow ; There, view for once, athwart the mountain plain. The rising sun illume the pathless main. Piercing with glittering beams the cold grey sky, Ere first his face doth greet thy straining eye. Chill'd though thy blood be in its purple vein, Perception touch, but slow, the sentient brain, HEREFORDIA. Sublime and fair shall grow the wondrous scene, Warm wax thy heart, pleased be thy smiling mien. As Night retires before the God of Day, The waning mist assmnes its upward way. The light, on Morning's spangled front unfurl'd. Gives life and language to the waking world : The tongues, all mute through Darkness' dreary hour, Now celebrate Jehovah's love and power ! vi. In deep defile, beneath the granite cone, Where sits the eagle in its eyry throne, There may you trace a small yet limpid spring, By pebbles chafed, o'er pebbles murmuring ; The fount whence Vaga, like a serpent's trail. Draws her quiet course through Siluria's Vale : A brooklet, here, its shallow bed descends ; A river, there, with broader current bends. Here shelving rocks, with lichens overgrown. Form shady haunts where salmon sport alone ; There, sloping margins, warm'd by sunny beam, Entice the trout to gambol in the stream. HEREFORDIA. n VII. Threading their stony way, all rough and steep, The widening streams in ample volume sweep, And thundering down the rugged precipice, Where caldron-like the seething eddies hiss, The currents mingle in the plain below, Beneath the bridge at Rhayader now flow. Then passing close by Penybont and Builth, Through scenes of rustic toil and buoyant health ; Skimming the fertile vale of Glasbury, The river glides Hay-Church, and Castle nigh, Touching the fruitful soil of Hereford, Where Whitney-meadows streich their velvet sward. VIII. Silent, and clear, fair Vaga flows along Through groves enliven'd by the skylark's song ; In frequent groups, kine fill the open glade, Sipping the liquid glass in cooling shade. Here fleecy flocks, like stars in th' azure sky, The meadows stud, delightful to the eye, HEREFORDIA. Where tiny daisies rear their crownlets sweet, So tempting e'er to children's rambhng feet ! IX. Through shocks of ages past, of war and storm, Unchanged and fresh, yet smiles loved Nature's form The hill, the dale, the boundless sea and sky, The rivulet and rock, still catch the eye. Nor should we feel the wasting hand of Time, Did not pale Ruin, in her face sublime, The once staunch oak, the tower, and fane assail, Leaving but crumbling stones to tell the tale, How work of human skill must share the doom, Which yields its maker to the lowly tomb. So droops De Clifford's strong-hold bleak and bare, (The childhood's home of Rosamond the Fair.) With Goodrich walls, old Chepstow's frowning keep. And Tintern's shrine ; 'neath which, in noiseless sweep, See, Vaga hastes to kiss Sabrina's wave, Fringing with flowers the bank her waters lave. HEREFORDIA. 13 X. All fickle as the wind, that turns aside At morn, at night, at noon, and evening tide, Are human thoughts. So, e'en the weaker part, Which holds the female's soft, and loving heart, In waywardness and change doth come behind The rougher sex, the master of mankind, — Who e'er would woman's gentler mind control With bonds, which bears not his maturer soul. Now cold and sullen, hot and jealous, he Doth exercise relentless tyi-anny : — Yet, doubly cruel still, is womankind. Who, in a sister's ways doth error find, (Denying sympathy for faults her own). If accident doth make the lost one known. So Rosa fell, and paid the penalty Devised by Ellen's cruel jealousy ; Yet who but mourns the hapless maiden's fate. Who doth not loathe her rival's murderous hate I 14 HEREFORDIA. XL Peace triumphs here, where War once had its sway, Briton and Saxon mix'd in bloody fray : Corn-fields and Gardens rich with apple-bloom, And Hop-yards redolent with soft perfume, And smiling Hamlets with their copse-wood hide, The Village Church, its land-mark, and its pride : — The Sacred Court, where praise, and prayer, and love, On Sabbath-morn, address the Power above ; The Font which seals the younghngs of Christ's flock, Our Saviour, King, our Hope's ne'er-failing rock ; The Altar-stone where kindred hearts agree To bear Life's toils, share its felicity ; Our latest couch beneath the verdant sod. Till call'd to taste the Paradise of God ! XII. The restless spirits, once all fire and life, Are dead and cold, have ceased their angry strife. The princely Glendwr sleeps at Monnington, In humble grave, the river's bank upon ; CASTLE-GREEN AND CATHEDRAL. 'To trace the giowth of yon stupendous pile, Its massive tower and well proportion'd aisle, A thousand years ere Queen Victoria's reio^n The Muse recalls." Herefordia. — Canto II. HEREFORDIA. 15 Henry of Agincourt is gone to earth, Yet Monmouth stands, which gave the hero birth. Old Hereford, fair city of the Wye, Famed for its cyder and its loyalty, Still holds her place amid the pleasant scene, Where groves and varied landscapes intervene. Reft is her castle, all her ramparts lost, Which bade defiance to the Scottish host. Preferring bloodshed, in Charles Stuart's cause, Brave Scudamore upheld the crown and laws, So, earn'd he then a victor's wreath and fame, Link'd ever with the City's spotless name. The fortress gone, yet on its former site The Green remains, to all affords delight ; Its slopes, its trees, its beauty ever fill (With river, bridge, and Dinedor's wood-clad hill). The gazer's eye with pleasure seldom known, Save, Art and Nature make the work their own ! XIII. Now looking down from Dinedor's camp and hill. Where late, the view was all serene and still. i6 HEREFORDIA. Dun clouds appear upon the changing sky, Surcharged with Jove's august artillery. Hot grows the air, a tremor strikes the earth. The darkness looms, such at volcano's birth Appals the mind, ere pent-up fires escape, And make the mountain-cone with fissures gape. Now loud, and louder, distant thunders speak, From murky clouds the rain-drops melting break ; Then flash on flash, and peal on peal succeed, Sweeping th' horizon's line with giant-speed. See, here and there, the forked lightning flies. Through the blue vault, the rolling bolt replies. Now lost and hid, each tower, each spire, recedes, And, shorn with wind, trees quake like trembling reeds. Reckless and quick, as spoil'd and wayward child, The tempest triumphs in its fury wild. Till the broad sun, all conquering, full and bright, Regilds both field and stream with living light. XIV. All worldly grandeur, wealth, and pomp, and power. Are creatures of a day, a fleeting hour. HEREFORDIA. 17 That which belongs to finity and time, Tainted by death, decay, perchance by crime. Soon fades, and, wanting reproducing force, Dechnes through Nature's perishable course ! That which endures through immortaUty, Must breathe of love, a holy sympathy. Preserving all from sin's impending fate, Leading to life, in life's most perfect state I So, pious hands from time to time restore The sacred temples built in days of yore ; The tapering spire, the huge expanded dome. Where duty bids us seek our heavenly home. Old and young, rich and poor, with pressing feet, His grace to share, in God's high presence meet ; As wave on wave, along the river flows, Each race of worshippers but comes and goes ; Now clear, now dim, then lost to human eye, Swept in the ocean of eternity ! XV. A country-life is stirring, free, and gay, Unlike the townsman toiling, day to day. i8 HEREFORDTA. None need be sad, if they but love the field, A sportsman's life doth recreation yield. Enjoyment, there, will Melancholy cure, The best of pill to keep the doctor poor ; Save now and then, a crack, a fall, or sprain, Will cost some cash, and not a httle pain ! To learn to tumble is no sad mischance, It mars the risk, and doth the fun enhance. And he whose foot in stirrup oft doth get, Ne'er fears a broken bone, a somerset ! Hurrah ! Hurrah ! The thrilling horn Doth wake the portals of the morn. And drives dull sleep away. See ! see ! once more, the golden sun To streak the east hath just begun, And hails the commg day. HEREFORDIA. 19 2. " Up and astir 1 " the sportsman cries, And quick the downy couch he flies, — To take th' exciting field. Both horse and hound are on the move, Whilst Reynard lurks in yonder grove. By tangled brake conceal'd. 3- Hark ! hark ! Again, at headlong pace, The sky doth echo back the chase, Each footstep, sliout, and breath ! O'er hedge and ditch, at dawn of day, See, gallant Reynard leads the way, Heedless of all, save death. 4- Hurrah ! hurrah ! With clattering heels, And heavy tramp, the landscape reels. As 'twere a whirlwind's birth ! To die this morn he hath no mind So Reynard leaves his foes behind, And safely runs to earth 1 L V:';&. SUBJECT. A Retrospect. — The Introduction of Christianity into England. — Reflections uiDon that Dispensation. — Sketch of the History of the Cathedral Church of Hereford. — From the time of the Heptarchy (including the Murder of King Ethelbert), to the end of the Eighteenth Century. — Fabric raised by Wilfred and Athelstane. — And Additions by Bishops Lozing and Raynelm. — Its Restoration under Deans Merewether and Dawes. — Story of Ethelbert and Elfrida.' — St. Cantilupe's Shrine, and Works of Bishops Audley, Booth, and Stanbury. — The New Altar Screen. — Allusion to the late Dean Merewether, and the late Mr. Joseph Bailey. — The Cathedral and its central position amongst the Parochial Churches of the City. — The Ancient Monastery and Hospitals. — The Attractions afforded by the Fields surrounding the City. — The Child's Song. How oft, and pensively, in life's young day. When summer sparkled in its silvery way, Fair Nature wooed me, with her flowery sheen, To rove o'er fields and thread the sylvan scene, The mind thrown backward for a thousand years, (Long interval of changes, joys, and tears) ; When with infant step, half averted smile. Civilisation scarce had touch'd this isle ; Fearful to stay, till from the brighter east, Religion first her starry mission traced. Dark was the land, and drear old England's shore, When Saint Augustine and his compeers bore 24 HEREFORDIA. The Cross of Christ, and His enUghtening Word, (By Saxons, simpler-minded people heard) ; The ray of hope, the pledge of heavenly love, Which made man heir of endless bliss above 1 Love e'er be with thee, sainted Virgin mild, Grace be with thee, mother of Holy Child ; Honour and praise to Jesus, God's own Son, Our Saviour, King, and Lord, most Mighty One. Glory to Jehovah, the Great, All-wise, Maker of heaven, and earth, and sea, and skies. Father of all. Giver of life and light. Ruler Supreme, All-powerful, Lifinite ; God of the Universe, Whose mercy hath Saved us from death, eternal woe and wrath, By one complete and lamb-like sacrifice, Ransom, His goodness could alone devise ! What marvel then that o'er the landscape rise, The stately piles whose summits climb the skies : Altars for praise and prayer, temples of love. Where man (his soul and mind withdrawn above), HEREFORDIA. 25 To God e'er present on His kingly throne, His wants, his cares, his inmost thoughts, makes known. Oh praise ! Oh prayer I rare privileges given, That not a sigh escapes His ear in heaven ! Based on a Rock, Messiah's church withstands The wreck of age, and Satan's fiendish hands ; Nor guile nor tumult can His truth efface, Nor infidelity His star displace. He hath declared, and who can dare gainsay, "That His dread word shall never pass away!" Jesus, the once-rejected Corner-stone, With hope, and joy, His saints will ever crown ; To those who seek will point the ready way That leads to life and never-ending day. There, faith engrafted on the Holy Three, Assures the yearning soul's felicity ! III. To trace the growth of yon stupendous pile, Its massive tower and well proportioned aisle, A thousand years ere Queen Victoria's reign, The Muse recalls, when, high o'er South-Town's plain, 26 HEREFORDIA. Stern Offa's palace reared its stately head, A scene of treason base, — a tragic deed ! Swept are its walls, its ancient gate, and fane, Yet lurks there still foul murder's loathsome stain ; For history tells how Mercia's monarch took Counsel with Quendreda, and vilely broke Hospitality's ties. He, by her, led. The blood of Royal Ethelbert then shed. Who thither lured, claim'd for his queenly bride. Their child Elfrida ; but so brideless died. Leaving the hapless maiden sad, forlorn, In Croyland's shade the Anglian Prince to mourn ! But crime Hke this could ne'er unpunish'd be ; His harrow'd soul, bent down with misery. From Harden Church the slaughter'd king he brought, And 'neath a tomb magnificently wrought. Enshrined his bones within Saint Mary's aisle ; With divers lands endow'd the sacred pile, (lave to the church the sainted sovereign's name. Wherein to worship pious pilgrims came. The gifts, so made, the old Cathedral shares, Erected now, some full eight hundred years. HEREFORD I A. 27 IV, Within that space, lo ! Time hath done its worst, Devouring fire, rapine, and war accurst ; 'X^ilfred's work, that by Athelstane begun. By Griffith, Prince of Wales, were soon undone. Till Lozing, and Raynelm, with master-hand, The fabric in its present outline plann'd ; Save, that about a century ago, The Western Tower was suddenly laid low. The modern front by Wyatt then replaced, Exhibits little skill, and doubtful taste. Assorting badly with the first design, Noble, elegant, of dimensions fine ! V. So long as stands about thy sacred walls A stone on stone, the busy mind recalls, With thoughts still sad, the Saxon monarch's fate, Seeking within thy courts now consecrate, The crumbling effigy defaced and \\'orn, O'er which his Anglian lieges loved to mourn ; The relic fails, yel in the poet's verse His blood-stain'd dea'.h imi)ressive words rehearse. 28 HEREFORDIA. I. " Night wanes apace, the crowd are gone, The lamps have ceased to glow ; And Cynthia's beams reflect upon The placid lake below, 3. '' The song of mirth is heard no more, No guests the goblet fill ; The banquet's revelry is o'er, All, all is hush'd and still t 3- *' No more amid the stately pile, The dance affords delight ; Nor tale, nor jocund sports beguile The silent hours of night. 4- " All seek the downy couch of sleep, The host and worthy guest ; The drowsy guard on duty keep, And envy them their rest ! HEREFORDIA. 29 5. "No minstrels strike th' enlivening string, None sound the thrilling horn ! The nightingale hath ceased to sing, And slowly breaks the morn. 6. " The portals of the dappled east Assume their bright array ; The sun, in new-born splendour drest, Drives lowering clouds away. 7- " Thick vapours from the earth arise, And pass away unseen, Till night again shall veil the skies, Now lucid and serene. 8. "Above proud Offa's gate the gold- Embroider'd banners hung, And 'scutcheon'd shields emblazon'd told, From whence his race had sprung. 3J HEREFORDIA. 9- " The glittering lance and crested plume Adorn the sculptured wall, And deepening shadows cast a gloom Around his spacious hall. lO. " On South-Town's ' heaven-directed ' fane^ Sol sheds his glaring ray ; And peace and joy through Mercia's plain, Their gladsome sceptre sway. I J. *' How different far the scene will be When night appears again, — O'er all now reigns festivity, But lamentation then i 12. " A richly silver-braided vest The virgin train prepare ; A scarf to wrap the snow-white breast, And gems to deck the hair. HEREFORDIA. 31 '3- '^ Elfrida, at her lat.ice high, Sits with the bridal throng, She looks and looks, then heaves a sigh ; ' Why tarries he so long ? ' 14- '' He comes, 'tis he ; and by his side, Attends a noble band ; He comes to claim his royal bride, His loved Elfrida' s hand. 45- " The wish'd for hour is gone and past, Slow chimes the marriage bell ; May heaven forbid it prove his last, The bridegroom's funeral knell. 16. " The priest before the altar stands, The maid bends on her knee. And lifts to God her heart and hand, In pious fervency. 32 HEREFORDIA. 17. " But where is he who should have knelt, Before his Maker low ; And where are they, who might have felt, What none but parents know 1 18. " In vain she waits and looks around, Still vainer are her cries. With shrieks the sacred aisles resound : Save echo, — nought replies. 19- " Full grief her throbbing heart enthrals, Her lips grow ghastly pale ; She weeps, she faints, and senseless falls, Before the altar rail. 20. But where is he by whom the vows Of love were pledged so late 1 Demand of Offa's artful spouse, Whose fiat seal'd his fate. HEREFORDIA. 33 21. The blush of guilt, upon her cheek, Sends forth its purple hues ; And agitation seems to speak, What conscience dares refuse. " Quendreda, mother, queen, and wife, In heart a loathsome thing, With subtlety assail'd the life Of Anglia's youthful king : — ■ 23. " Ethelbert, suitor for her child, (Fond hope of Mercia's lord I) To whom, in accents sweet and mild. She gave her plighted word. 24. "To Him, who gives life's fleeting breath, His soul hath ta'en his flight ; He sleeps the last long sleep of death, Upon his bridal night. 34 HEREFORDIA. 25. " His guards were gone, no friends were near To bless him ere he died ; None, none to dry the faUing tear, Or ])id his pains subside. 26. " Oil ! where is she whom fate hath niade. Dejected and forlorn? She goes to Croyland's hallow'd shade, To live, alas ! to mourn ! 27. " Weep Anglia, weep, thy monarch 's dead ; To heaven his spirit 's flown ; And he, whose hands his blood have shed. Will mount thy vacant throne. 28. " He reigns ; but, mark, how self-reproach Pervades his inmost breast ; And pangs of sad remorse encroach Upon his fever'd rest 1 HERKFORUIA. 35 29. "He lives, but life hath li.tle left, Of aught his love to claim ; — Of all but grief 'tis now bereft ; To him, 'tis but a name I " VI. While aught is left of Cantilupe's fair shrine, (The Bohuns in their altar-tomb recline), Of Audley, Booth, and Stanbury, who wore The mitred cap — in the cathedral bore Their share of decoration ; so, thy name, Dean Merewether, shall survive to fame, Whose knowledge, tas^e, munificence display' d, Restored the Lady Chapel, and here made The Lantern Tower the glory of the scene ; Where stands, too, Bailey's richly sculptured screen. But both, alas ! removed, are dead and gone, Ere they the finish'd work had look'd upon ; Not ta'en too soon to suit th' eternal mind, Too early lost to those they left behind. 36 HEREFORDIA. VII. Nor wanting there be other sights around, Fresh charms imparting to the sacred ground ; The ancient College with its spacious square, The Bishop's Cloister and the palace near ; Nor distant far, the stout old bridge appears, Withstanding flood and storm three hundred years. Its arches, rough, yet sturdy all now seem ; And jealous of the piers, high up the stream. Would to the rival fabric slily say, " We will be strong, when you are in decay." VIII. Like aged parent, with his children nigh, . The Minster keeps its place revered and high ; The neighbouring fanes surround it close at hand, All-Saints', Saint Peter's, with Saint Martin's stand With spires uplifted, proudly looking o'er Saint Nicholas' Church, and its low stunted tower. On site remoter, raised in days bygone, Where creeping ivy hides the sofLen'd stone, HKREKORI) CATIIEDUAL AND LADY CHAPEL. ' Like agfed parent, with bis cliildroii nigh, Ttie Miuster keeps its place revered and high ; The neighbouring fanes surround it close at hand. All Saints', Saint Peter's, with Saint Martin's stand, With spires uplifted, proudly looking o'er Saint Nicholas' church, and its low stunted tower." Canto II. HEREFORDIA. 37 The graceful Monastery of Old Blackfriars, AVith preaching-cross, though modestly aspires ; And next to these, once courts of praise and prayer, Their kindred piles, the Hospitals appear, Making the city rich in Halls that feed, And shelter give to those who are in need : Thus Nature, Art, Benevolence, here, move In land of Beauty, Peace, and Christian love. IX. In pleasant meads that skirt the city round, Diversified with vale and rising ground. Induced by sport and June's delightful air, Gay troops of children meet and froHc there ! And in their fetes all happily engage Their loved companions of a riper age. Who now review with sense of joy and pain. The days they did athwart the hill and plain AA'ith agile limbs th' exciting chase pursue, AVith faultless aim the ponderous missile throw. Joyous, their name and race should thus survive, And sad, themselves l)ut moments few can live. 38 HEREFORDIA. Like rose-bud burst in April-shower, Anxious to taste the vernal morn, The gentle Alice, Nature's flower, A spring- plant fresh was latest born ! Fragile and prattling, blithe and fair. She '11 dance and smg the long day through ; When evening comes, her eyes prepare With ceaseless fire to shine anew. 3- Sweet is the breath of childhood's rest, Brings damask hue to thy soft cheek ; Then sleep, that with the greater zest, Thou may'st thy life's enjoyment seek. 4- Young flowers soon fade, though now they 're bright, And oft they lie all blench' d and low ! The nip])ing frost and shade of night Do sap their strength, and spoil their glow ! HKREFORDIA. .i9 But to enjoy, is to be good ; True pleasures tiow where virtues thrive, So take in youth and age the food, Whereon thou niav'st hereafter hvc. I SUBJECT. Spring. — Opening of Vegetation and Active Life. — The Hop-yards and Orchards. — Tlie Natural Scenery of the County. — The Golden Valley : — Dore Abbey, Moccas, Garnons, Holm Lacy. — Goodrich and Ross. — Malvern Hills. — Wilton Bridge and Castle. — Goodrich Court, and Goodrich Castle. — Penyard Wood, and Walford. — Song to the Ivy Green. — Address to Tintern. — Comparison between Richmond Hill and Wyndclifif. — Allusion to Piercefield and Chepstow Castle. — The Beauty of Evening. — Song of the Night. — Possibility of War. — The Volunteer Movement. — Song of the Oak Tree. Hail, Herefordia ! region bright and gay, Where, crown'd with blossoms, smiles the Queen of May Doffing the garb of Wmter, stern and cold. Her cheerful reign doth Spring prepare to hold. Bursting her bonds, and roused from icy death. Nature awakes, and with her genial breath Strews warmth and verdure, where the howling blast Late made the country round a desert waste. Up and astir ; with varied objects rife, Man hastes again to labour and to life 44 HEREFORDIA. With the yoked team upturns the mellow land, Here scatters seed with firm and generous hand, There leads the flock to pastures green and sweet. Where sunlit slopes the sportive lambkins greet ; Nor deaf to duty and the calls of health, Raising by industry the rustic wealth, The village matron and her youthful train. Now swell the busy troop o'er hill and plain. Though bonny France with sunny landscape shines, All redolent with smiles and blushing vines, She cannot boast a more enchanting sight Than Herefordia, when the Hop-yards bright With festoon'd vistas meet the raptured eye, And orchards rich in blossom'd drapery. Shed perfumes which Pomona only showers, • Eden of perfect beauty, fruit, and flowers ! III. Come charming Summer, time of joy and love To all creation, here, below, above ; Birds, fishes, insects, beasts, and e'en mankind, All seek thy face, and atmosphere refined. HEREFORDIA. See, morning breaks ! and o'er the dewy earth, Light, borne on fragrant wings, hath early birth. From branch to branch the tiny bee doth stray, Gathering her honied store from day to day. On velvet lawn the fleecy flocks recline, And 'mid the stream collect the lowing kine. Tempted by shade and pasture rich and deep To climb the river's side, bush-grown and steep, Ne'er heeding happy youths in fields hard by, Who dance o'er new mown-grass so merrily ! Then welcome jocund Autumn crown'd with corn. With gushing grapes and over-flowing horn. When sumptuous fare, the tankard's ruby foam. Make glad the rustic heart at harvest home ; Then plenty cheers the lord of wealth and soil, The humble cottar, child of want and toil. All bless'd by fruits of Providence and Heaven, With lavish hand to peer and peasant given. IV. Reader, if lust of wealth attract thy heart. Go, thread the maze of Mammon's crowded mart ; 46 HEREFORDIA. If fashion lure thee to her ghttering way, Go seek her courts, where clothed in soft array, And smiling mien, her votaries take delight, Wasting their strength m one continued night. Nor finding rest till garish eye of day On sallow cheeks shall stamp a feverish ray. If Nature lead thy more sagacious mind, Go, trace her haunts, where health and peace combined Induce wise thoughts, true hours of happiness, And ripe old age which Heaven doth deign to bless. V. Who saunters then the fine old county through. Can coldly pass the scenes which catch his view I The wooded height, the grassy dell and mead, Where burly oaks their shady branches spread ; The slopmg orchards where Pomona yields Sweet pear and apple ; the gold-colour'd fields, Where waving corn in rich profusion shines, The well-train d hoj)-yard with its tender bines, Resounding with the gleaner's joyful song, The merry dance of labourers, old and young? PKKACHIXG CROSS. MONASTKRY BLACKFRIAKS. '• On site remoter, raised in days bygone, Where creeping ivy hides the soften'd stone, The graceful Monastery of Old Blackfriars, With I'reaching Cross, though modestly, aspires." Herefori'Ia. — Canto ]I. HEREFORDIA. 47 VI. When summer-months Avith bahny zephyrs vie, The rod and hne the thoughtful anglers j)ly, The Golden Valley anxiously explore, Where sport invites them to the sparkling Dore. There may the student sweet retirement taste ; The bard in reverie luxurious waste, Beneath the Abbey walls, the livelong day, And wake soft echoes by his tuneful lay. Nor needs the painter for his pleasing art, Whilst Vagi's shores such fairy nooks impart, Task grateful ! From the spot wherein she leaves Fair Brecknock's hills, whence Monmouth's vale receives Her stream, Nature, with ever-changing hue, Enchants their ready pen and pencil too. VII. Moccas embosom'd in her sylvan glade, Fair gardens on its terraced slope display'd, And Belmont peeping from its close retreat, Th' enraptured voyager's attention meet. Sweet Rotherwas, secluded snug and warm, 'Neath Dinedor's sheltering hills; ne'er feels alarm. 48 HEREFORDIA. Holm Lacy stately with her park and deer, And Fownhope woods romantic all appear. The scene extends, till Ross and Goodrich nigh On either bank their crowning charms supply. The Prospect boasts, beside its sacred head, The path which Kyrle delighted once to tread, With narrow purse, yet soul enlarged he bore Himself the friend of all the neighbouring poor. By precept urged them, by example led, To win their heavenly and their daily bread ; His fame and virtue through the country ran. The modest teacher and the Chrisdan man. And Pope, great judge of inmost thoughts and ways, On the philanthropist bestowed his praise, Praise woven with the poet's deathless song. Deserved and just, harmonious on the tongue. VIII. Whoe'er hath gazed from Ross' high Prospect down, Whose pretty church surmounts the antique town. There traced the river through its winding way, Reflecting golden tints on summer day. HEREFORDIA. 49. Thence look'd Avhere Cambrian mountains bound the view, And Malvern's heights are bathed in purple hue, The nearer hills all thick with shadows green, And valleys robed in Nature's matchless sheen, The slender spires, and hamlets here and there, Basking in Industry's enriching air, — Will long recall the grandeur of the sight, Retain the thoughts which raised the mind's delight 1 Thence glancing westward from the sunny brow, The beaten road ascends the steep below. Nor distant far, thick clothed in ivy green. The walls, and bridge of Wilton, grace the scene ! Within few steps the stranger may descry, Fair Goodrich Court, and Castle rising high, O'erlooking Walford, on the other shore, Old Penyard's wood with Weston in the rear. High o'er the stream old Goodrich lifts its head. And bears with beetling brow an aspect dread ; Uttering a gloomy plaint, her spirit mourns ; With sadden'd heart to former glory turns. 50 HEREFORDIA. Twine, quickly twine, sweet Ivy Green, O'er my shorn walls all grey and bare, And kindly hide, with leafy screen, The hand that works destruction there. " Twine, twine again, with perfumed flowers, Bright as the golden sun in May ; With honey'd blossoms crown the hours. Bid Time my threaten'd fall delay. Fain would I e'er conceal the truth, Traces which mark my ancient stone, Oh ! could I but renew my youth, When o'er my halls bright splendour shone. " Though ruin haunts my once proud fane, No better fate, my masters share, None of their lordly race remain To Goldrick, Talbot, or De Clare. HEREFORDIA. 51 5- '' Yon puny towers now vainly wear The tinsel of a later day, Like youthful beauties flaunting peer, Mocking my age and sure decay. 6. " Then quickly twine, sweet Ivy Green, O'er my now soft and crumbling form ; Let thy young tendrils intervene, To sate the blind devouring worm." IX. As day declines, lo ! Goodrich fades from sight. Its turrets hid beneath the pall of night ; And led by thoughts her raptured mind engage, The Muse to Tintern makes a pilgrimage. i. Hail, fair Tintern ! Whether or not it be In Winter's dreary hour, when gloomily 52 HEREFORDIA. The harsh wind blows all biting, cold and loud. And earth lies ice-bound, wrapt in snowy shroud : On Vernal morn, when o'er thy sacred ground, The young grass springs, and Nature smiles around ; In Summer, when the sun shines warm and bright, And skylarks warble in the azure height ; Or in brown Autumn, decked with changing leaves. When garners full, fruit blushing, golden sheaves Rejoice the heart of man, — I visit thee ; Tintern, thou still hast deathless charms for me ! 2. Crumbling and reft though be thy ancient gate, Roofless thy walls, fast sinking, desolate ; All stript and naked thy once glittering shrine, Thy gothic windows glassless, where did shine, Traced in soft lines and tinctures bright and fair, Legends of saints, histories old and rare ! Dull and dismantled though thy lofly tower, Ungarnish'd, voiceless be thy stately choir ; Yet, Tintern, thou dost speak in tones to me, Both sad and sweet, like holy memories be. HEREFORDIA. 53 3- Nor praise nor prayer now wakes thy fretted aisles, Nor studied jjomp the sacred rite unveils ; Thy lands and tythes by ruthless spoilers shorn, Which made thy coffers rich with coin and corn : Thy mitred abbots crumble in the dust, Their tombs scarce marked with sculptured cross or bust. The mind, reflecting on thy glories gone, Regrets thy ruin, but is proud to own The growth of freedom and the milder law, Ruling since feudalism hath ceased to awe The public mind : that knowledge, hand in hand With holy truth, hath lighted up the land. 4- Then farewell Tintern ! He, Avho stands alone Within thy walls, thy beauty looks upon (The ivy clinging to thy wasting form, Where, silent, feeds the dull, rapacious worm I) Will ne'er retire without a parting sigh, The past and present crowding in his eye, Wishing again to see thy front sublime, Nor further injured by the hand of Time. 54 HEREFORDIA. X. Monastic life is but existence lost, Wanting the spring which should adorn it most. 'Tis active virtue makes religion thrive, Th' example best, by which to act and live. A tree hath use which sheds its proper fruit. That failing, 'tis a dry and cumbrous root. Th' imprison'd warbler sings ; but lo ! its song Is not so thrilling, half so sweet or strong. As when it sounds in Nature's haunts all free, Waking the air with charming melody ; To strains there given its younger mates aspire, And so results a full harmonious quire ! XI. And who can quit thy shores, meandering Wye, Ere climbing Wyndcliff, towering clear and high, Viewing the gorgeous landscape stretching wide, And Piercefield wash'd by thy ne'er-ceasing tide ; Then visit Chepstow, th' old and quiet town. By sheltering hill-side, closely nestling down, With aspect mild, beneath the Castle-keep 1 Like angry monarch scowling o'er the deep, HEREFORDIA. 55 Its watch hath been since JuHus Caesar hurl'd His countless legions through the startled world, Till by Clare, Bigod, Pembroke's lord possest, By Somerset and Cromwell 'mongst the rest ; And lastly, in Victoria's peaceful reign, Portion of Beaufort's rich, much prized domain ; Where forest huge, and pastures fill'd with kine, Of Nature's wealth afford an endless mine. T. Who hath not heard of Richmond's charming hill, Whence Nature liglit and beauty thickly showers. And Father Thames with ample stream doth fill The shore, where stand proud Windsor's regal towers. 2. Deep in the gorge, there Kingston holds its place, And Bushey's noble park is clearly seen, A fitting guard to Plampton's fairy space, With palace, maze, and garden, all serene ! HEREFORDIA. 3- But here, more bold and grand, doth Wyndchff rise, AVhere Vaga wanders through the wooded vale, Kissing with lofty brow the dappled skies, And Tintern droops, in dust, a ruin pale. High, on the broad expanse the eye doth rest, Unnumber'd counties meet the raptured view. Encircling fair Sabrina's golden breast, Then lost in Cambrian mountains clothed with blue. Varied and rich, the prospect hath no end ; Now soft, then wild, fresh objects catch the sight Exhaustless ; save where earth and air do blend Their lessening outlines with the melting light. Sublime, enduring, at His high command, Our great Creator's work will death defy Unlike the fruit of man's but puny hand, Made for an hour, but to decay and die. HKREFORDIA. 7- So, classic Piercefield must its beauties lose, Roofless and bare will be as Chepstow's keep : Nature alone shall see the world's sad close — Will o'er its fallen greatness watch and weep, XII. Happy is he who scans this matchless scene, Where charms of Art and Nature intervene : Nor yet the varied landscape let him leave, Ere day declines in dewy lap of Eve. Day hath its glory ! 'Neath th' horizon's bound, Life, light, and shadow, run their wonted round. Morn moves along with quick and sounding feet, All heralding with sweets the Noon-tide heat ; But Evening soft assumes her sober vest, Suggests pure thoughts, fit time for sleep and rest Bids the full mind reflect on moments past, Foretaste the morrow, that, perchance its last. He who but tries the future oft to view, Will mete the present with a standard true, Doth labour well to fill the narrow span Which (iod awards to action and to man. 58 HEREFORDIA. Hark ! hark ! through rusthng trees Now sighs the Mid-night breeze, O'er field and streamlet borne ; And high in ivied towers-, Through melancholy hours, The moping owl doth mourn ! List ! list ! all soft and clear, Now breaks upon the ear, The nightingale's sweet song. Listen, as louder grows The melody, and flows Her trilling, matchless song ! See I see ! as in the cloud The moon herself doth shroud. Leaving the waning night ! Silent on velvet lawn. Watching the day's grey dawn The glow-worm sheds her light ! HEREFORDIA. 4- Hark ! hark I how quick and shrill, Crowing o'er vale and hill, The cock doth wake the morn 1 Now larks do carol high, The hound doth join the cry, The sportsman winds his horn I XIII. Hark ! hark ! dull guns now in the distance boom, Athwart the sky impends a heavy gloom ; ^Uneasiness doth strain the public mind, A sense of danger, feeling undefined. Erect and ready every man doth stand, Couragefand lovenow nerve each heart and hand ; Courage in war to meet the con^ig foe, And love of country none doth better know : Pure unbought patriotism, the thought which spurns All other motives, when abroad there burns Aggressive action, and the wish to brand With foreign yoke our yet unconquer'd land. See, in the noble work, all ranks unite, Reckless of life, all wait the glorious fight ; 59 6o HEREFORDIA. O'er serried hosts these magic words appear, "The Queen, old England, and our children dear ! XIV. Firm as the rock which studs fair Albion' shore, Unscathed by storm, and deaf to ocean's roar, Dauntless and steadfast as her stalwart oak, Her sons, regardless e'en of threat or stroke, Make common cause ; and all in band compact, When danger frowns, resolve to think and act, Well weigh the cause which craves their sturdy might, And, once decided, buckle to the fight No better guards shall Albion ever need, Whilst hearts so true are ready e'e^to bleed^ Whilst the broad oakJunbendin^E^Sd and high, In countless fleets her wooden walls supply. The British Oak, the fine old oak, With outstretch'd limbs and strong, Defies the tempest's rudest stroke, Endures through ages long ! HKREFORDIA. 6i Deep in the soil, robusr, and tall, Firm stands its giant form ; With branches wide, its shadows fall, A shelter from the storm 1 3- When dark clouds veil the wintry sky, Leafless it grows and bare ; Its limbs extend all bright and high, A crown of frost-work wear. 4- When Smiimer smiles all warm and green, And decks the field with flowers, I'he oak puts on its shady sheen, The rudd)' apple showers. 5- When by the Woodman's axe it falls, Dismember'd, shorn, and low, The brave old oak rears wooden walls, A fence 'gainst En'dand's foe 1 62 HEREFORDIA. And so/ Religion hath been given, A shield and solace here ; It yields both peace and joy in heaven, With Jesus ever near. ,/'!:>y^, ~ SUBJECT. Nature must be viewed m all her Changes, and her Haunts are necessary to Contemplation. — Scenery from Ludlow, by way of Hereford, Ledbury, and Malvern. — Ludlow Castle, its History and Present Condition. — The Character of the Country in Olden Times. — The Saxon and Roman Periods. — Invasion by the Danes. — Origin of the Castle of Hei-eford, and Subjuga- tion of the City by William the Norman. — The Men of Here- ford in Doomsday Book, -^Surrender of Hereford to King Stephen. — Henry the Third and the Barons. — Deposition of Edward the Second. — The Wars of the Roses. — The Earls of Hereford. — The Viscounts of Hereford. — The Siege of Here- ford by the Parliamentary Forces in Time of Charles the First. — Its Defence by Sir Barnabas Scudamore. — The Monastery of the Blackfriars. — The White Cross and the Plague in Here- ford. — Chapel at Kington destroyed by an Earthquake. — The Slipping of Marcle Hills. — Longevity of the Inhabitants of the County. — Morrice Dance performed before King James the First. — Presentation to that Monarch of Twenty-one Sons by Sir Roger de Baskerville. — General Reflections on Man, and the Design of the Creation. — Herefordia, delightful both to Strangers and to her Children: the Tie not broken by Death. — Autumnal Leaves. Picture a voiceless, dull, unmoving world, Eternal silence into chaos hurl'd ; Or, e'en a flow of never-ending light, Without the rest and soft repose of night ; Pluck the fair stars from Heaven's high firmament wSink the vast sea, by foaming billows rent, And build a Babel huge of cold, grey s':one, Whereon to fix the straining sight alone. Monotony so sad would craze the mind, Render the vision soon both dim and blind. But Providence all-good, supremely great, Hath saved His creatures from so dire a fate ; 66 HEREFORDIA. Securing health and joy ! Wherever view'd Nature doth shine in crowds or soh'tude. He loses much who ne'er can Nature see In all her fitful, strange variety : Now sunny, pleasant, bright, serene and mild, Gentle as sportive lamb and prattling child, Then dark and threatening, with a face severe. With o'ercast sky and tempest hovering near. Anon, to fury lash'd in wildest height. She strikes the startled earth with subtle light; Next brooding into silence, such as reigns When spectral corse doth scare the battle-plains. Thus Spring delights to smile with opening day, Clothing the hills and dales with soft array, Then Summer lures us with her balmy hours. Her purpled thickets and her perfumed bowers ; And sober Autumn with her golden horn. Loads the huge barn with blushing fruit and corn, The stores which cheer us through the Wintry night, When social converse charms with kindly light. HEREFORDIA. 67 But quiet thought, and contemplation deep Love lonely heaths where clouds and shadows sweep. In spangled fields and tangled lawn and dell, The artless child of Nature fain would dwell ; Far from the world, its anxious strife, and gains, The mind high impulse, purer view^ obtains. Content with little ; thus, the greed for much The spirit vexeth not by sordid touch ; Simple of heart, the student there confines His book to fair Creation's glorious hnes ; Religion, too, the moral feeling sways, Leading to truth's more calm and pleasant ways ! 111. Reader, if worldly cares distract thy mind, The harass'd brain restoring balm would find, Go, trace the glebe from Salop's boundary line. To spot where Malvern Hills the county join : See Ludlow smiling, with her castle-wall In peace o'er Ludford's antiquated hall : Thence pass by Berrington to Lem'ster 'low n ; Then visit Hampton Court retired and lone. 68 HEREFORDIA. By Dinmore Hill, the Vale of Lugg pursue To Hereford, the varied country through ; Then see Stoke Edith's mansion, park, and fane. Till Ledbury's steeple rises o'er the plain ; Thence seeking Eastnor's awe-inspiring towers. Her velvet slopes, and all-enchanting bowers ; Enraptured, climb the Beacon's swelling height, There contemplate the panoramic sight. Where beauty reigns, and Nature ever glows, Displaying charms, which Britain only shows. Brief is the task, but in the mind and eye. Will linger long the pleasing memory. That freedom dwells, and industry here thrives, Blessing the fruit the great Creator gives. If Contemplation woo the purple shade. And youngjiomance aftect the leafy glade, (Coy Nymphs the twain, each tells her musings sweet. In pleasant groves, fond lovers' safe retreat), Go, seek the woods, where Wigmore's thickets join The hills and vales of charming Leintwardine, Traversed by streams, where, through the vernal day, The anglers love to lure their finny prey. HEREFORDIA. 69 And he who scans the dark, barbaric age, When conflicts dire marked history's early page, May see, not far removed, the battle-field, Where Pembroke's earl display'd his blood-stain' d shield. IV. Close-built, and nesding on the church-crown'd hill, Fair Ludlow smiles with antique gables Siill, But not disturbed by sounds like those of yore, When her stout walls Montgomery's banner bore, Founder of the fortress ; and from whose fame, " Palace of Princes," dates its fitdng namic. The Castle, for King Henry, Pagnell held. Who aiding, next, Matilda, 'twas then quell'd By Stephen's force ; he, join'd by Scotland's heir. Reduced the place, and fix'd his standard there. In the third Henry s reign, De Montfort came, Demolishing the towers by arms and flame. Bold Roger Mortimer then ruled, its lord, Till, to King Edward, treason foul'd his sword ; And, here, the Duke of York in durance vile Held Glastonbury's Abbot for awhile : 70 HEREFORDIA. And once again, the Castle was besieged By the sixth Henry, who plundering waged War 'gainst the town ! Led by savage glow. His soldiers laid the ancient stronghold low. Upon the death of York at stern Wakefield, The Earl of March (his son) the Castle held ; Here, the fifth Edward and his brother were Watch'd by the Earl of Rivers' friendly care, Till, trapp'd away by Glo'ster's fiendish power, The royal youths were murder'd in the Tower. In Charles's wars, Bridgewater's famous earl In the King's cause his flag did here unfurl, And for a space, the fortress kept at bay Cromwell's rapacious troops, which round it lay. V. Drear though be thy walls, dark be thy present fate, Where Ruin stalks all-grand, but desolate, Yet thou bright deeds and brighter hours hast known, Reflecting glory, pleasure all thine own ; The hours when pageant, masque, and festival Did the brave knight and jewell'd dame enthral, HEREFORDIA. 71 The deeds which even deadi and age defy, Rich traits of honour, courage, loyalty. Nor dost thou need the poet's glowing verse, Such Milton's e'er-impassion'd strains rehearse, And Butler pour'd from sharp satyric vein, Within thy courts in Stuart's merry reign. VI. Who views thy giant fortress, once the pride Of Norman power, will not have inly sigh'd — That time is gone, when in thy neighbourhood Raged constant havoc, bloodshed, war, and feud. Peace marks thy place ; where, once with feather'd crest Bristled the barb, now builds the bird her nest, And songs harmonious wake the verdant plain. Nor booming gun doth shake thy walls again. Stately and still, beneath the vaulted sky. Thou hold'st thy ancient head sublime and high : Unscathed by storm, save fire of human rage. Thou stand'st a monument in after-age Of feudal greatness, civil discords past, Whereof thy stones a fading record last ; 12 HEREFORDIA. All ivy-clad, as if kind Nature tried With graceful shroud thy wasting form to hide ! VII. In olden time, Herefordia played her part, Prompt e'er in war ; m peace with useful art, To exercise her children's ready hand By labour to improve her generous land. This portion of Siluria was well-known, Which the Dimetae Tribes then made their own, Where long the people bravely held their home Against the legions of invading Rome. Nor till Caractacus was captive borne. And Rome's imperial robe by Claudius worn, Here, did the galling yoke Siluria know, 'Fore Julius Frontinus her soldiers bow ! The Roman station. Magna Castra, stiU, And Ariconium built near Bury Hill, Attest the rule, which, for five centuries' time, The Caesars held in Britain's shifting clime. THE WHITE CROSS. 'The White Cross (Bishop Charlton's work) records, Now by its simple form, though not in words, That, since the Plague bore, by its poisonous breath, To the doom'd city then, both woe and death, The country-people have enjoy'd fair health, The fertile soil produced its cereal wealth ! " Herefordia. Canto IV HEREFORDIA. 73 VIII. During this era, a poor village known To Britons, " Caerffawydd," or "The Beech Town," Enjoyed the nov/ fair city's pleasant place ; And Boel, the governor (so legends trace), At the round table of King Arthur seen, Was in high council, kept at old Caerleen. Some fifty years had pass'd, that king being slain, The district v/as by Saxon Cridda ta'en ; And of the Heptarchy, the Mercian throne, The last and greatest kingdom then was known. Betwixt this time and Offa's dismal reign, Britons and Saxons were by thousands slain ; To mark the country here by Offa won, The famous Dyke that monarch then begun. Two centuries later, did the Danes invade The city. Bishop Carmalac being made Prisoner, and for whom a ransom paid Was by King Edward, till, by royal maid, Ethelfieda ^ the routed Danes were slain, And few survived to flee the crimson plain. The Wall and Castle, by this princess rear'd. Did cause the King to be by Welshmen fear'd ; 74 HEREFORDIA. So, that with Athelstane a truce was made, Tribute in silver, gold, and kine was paid ; And, by this monarch was the River Wye, 'Twixt Wales and England, named the boundary. King Harold next the city wall renew' d, And when by Griffith, Prince of Wales, subdued, The citizens were under tribute laid To William First, who a Mint here made. Thus ceased the Sovereigns of pure Saxon race, Of whom, in history, now, the slightest trace Recalls a sense of love and honest pride, Their mild and simple rule so justified. IX. In Doomsday Book, the men of Hereford Were chronicled in eulogistic word ; Claiming the van when hostile ranks did meet. And so, the rear, when force compell'd retreat. In Eleven-thirty-nine, th' year of Grace, For the Empress Maud, Talbot took the place, Holding it three years, when to Stephen, King, Fortune of war the castle old did bring ; HEREFORDIA. 75 And^ crov/n'd, that monarch sate at Whitsuntide In the Cathedral Church. He did decide The southern suburbs all to set on fire, That no unfaithfiil troops might there conspire. When Heniy with the Barons was engaged, The war at first in Hereford was waged. That done, the Ba'ctle-field of Lewes was fought, Hence, were the King and his son Edward brought ; But luckily the Prince he found his way To Wigmore, where Earl Mortimer then lay. In solemn council there convened and closed, At Hereford, King Edward deposed ; And Hugh de Spencer, by the Friar's-Gate, His favourite (Earl of Glo'ster) met his fate. X. The soil of Hereford was next imbued With war "and blood, during the Roses' feud ; The Duke of York, 'gainst Pembroke's royal Earl, And th' Earl of Ormond, did his flag unfurl ; But ere in fight, the troops at Kingsland met, High in the Heavens three glaring suns v/ere set. 76 HEREFORDIA. Of Lancasters, four thousand nigh were slain, And Owen, second spouse of Catherine The Queen, with nine brave officers of note, By Yorkists, were within the City smote. In Cromwell's wars it was then thrice besieged, And Cave and Waher 'gainst each other 'gaged ; The former rashly did capitulate, lire latter entered by old Widemarsh Gate ; But soon his army did evacuate, When Scudamore reversed the City's fate, And forced the Earl of Leven to retire, Who so escaped King Charles' superior fire. XI. The Earls of Hereford, once powerful thanes, Held feudal reign o'er town, and hill, and plains ; From Sweyn, Fitz-Ozborne, to the brave Breteuil, Through ]\Iilo, Bossu, and the Bohun's rule. To th' eighth Earl Humphrey, last of that high nam.e, Henry, his heir, was Duke of Buckingham ; He aided Richard to usurp the throne, (Then prompted Richmond to obtain the crov/n). HEREFORDIA, 77 Was by that monster kill'd at Salisbury, When ceased the honours of the family ! Viscounts of Hereford, the oldest known, The Devereux' race through sixteen ages own ; Of these, great Robert, Earl of Essex too, Eliza's favor and her vengeance knew ! XII. Lord Cantilupe (the Bishop's brother), he (Time, second Edward) built the Monaster}^ Of Old Blackfriars. In the succeeding reign, The King, the Black Prince, and a noble train, At its high consecration were employed ; And so the fabric for a time enjoyed Much reputation : to its coffers brought The stores which lay nor churchman set at nought. The Whitecross (Bishop Charlton's work), records Yet, by its simple form, though not in words. That since the Plague bore, by its poisonous breath. To the doom'd City then dire woe and death, The country-people have enjoy'd fair health. The fertile soil produced its cereal wealth ! 78 HEREFORDIA. No dark event within the county's bound Hath frighten'd e'er the simple folk around, Since Kington Chapel sank by rude earthquake, And Little Marcle Hills did dance and shake, Its church destroying in their hasty fall, (Some add !) the parson, clerk, and people all ! XIII. The population here attain old age. If temperate habits do the mind engage, " But rheumatism abounds," so cries the sage, " Where cider flows," their native beverage ! In presence of their lord, the first King James, When flourish' d many fine old English games, Ten persons did perform most jollily, A Morrice Dance before His Majesty — Five men, five women, whose united years A thousand reached, by history appears. And Baskerviile, much to His Highness' sport. Stout sons a score-and-one he took to court. But Stuarts now no longer fill a throne, The stalwart knight of Norman blood is gone : HEREFORDIA. 79 The Lord of Eardisley, a hundred lands, With all his race is mingled \\i;h the sands — The shifting sands which form'd the hill and plain, Where e'en not now his once strong towers remain ! But kings are mortal ; so the life of man Doth vanish into dust, a narrow span ; And dynasties but mark time's finite space, All unenduring as swift lightning's trace ! XIV. Though grand soe'er the page of history reads, And brightly there shine man's heroic deeds, How feeble seem they, when our eyes survey The works of God through each recurring day. The World's design is wonderfully laid, Wherein such love and mercy are display' d. That, wanting these, existence would have been A dreary waste, an unimpassion'd scene ! Mark but the sky its soft and azure hue. Where sun and clouds, delightful, form the view ; The fields, too, deck'd in verdiu-e rich and deep ; The shading trees in lines of beauty SAveep ; 8o HEREFORDIA. And rivers bright, like th' eye in human face, Light and expression on the landscape trace ; Supplying harmony to charm the whole, The joyous song of birds enchants the soul. Nature rejoiceth in variety, With endless objects, leads the mind and eye ; Here, the bluff rock o'erawes the watery main. There, mountain-range o'erlooks the sunny plain Uniting order, use, and ornament, In system peerless, wise, and excellent ! XV. So rich in gifts doth Herefordia claim The stranger's love. To those, who, with her name, By birth have privilege of closer tie. Sweet Home dwells ever in the memory. In life thus dear, — in death 'twill form a part Of the soul's prayer to sleep within her heart ; Fain would the Muse secure her resting place, A nook within the county's much prized space. Whene'er that comes, oh ! let the moment see The Day's decline, whilst Autumn's leaves shall be .HKREFORDIA. Thick strewed by winds, which murmur solemnly O'er her poor tomb, the fitting drapery. 1. Autumnal Leaves : What lessons teach they in the busy crowd, Where Fortune weaves Her web of blank or prize ; but that a shroud Awaits the old and young ; aye, instant death To him that strives 'gainst fate with fiercest breath ? 2. Pale, falling Leaves : What speak they in the forest bending low, Where Nature weaves Her own cold winding sheet of spotless snow; ■♦■> But that all earthly things must see decay, Ere light shall shine with never-ending ray ? 3- Pale, floating Leaves : What prove they on the swift but silent stream, "Where soft Wave heaves. And on the golden prow the sun doth gleam ; But that the sands of Time unheeded fly, Find the unseen depths of Eternity 1 82 HEREFORDIA. Pale, falling Leaves : What say they on the bed of starry flowers, Where Beauty weaves A coronal, to hide the fleeting hours ; But the stern law, without exception made. That all must die, the brightest flower must fade ? 5. Pale, wasting Leaves : What say they in the charnel house of Death, Where Darkness weaves A gloomy pall, e'er stifling light and breath ; But that, like leaflets withering day by day. The whiten'd corses there must sink away? 6. Yet Autumn Leaves Foretel an Earthly and a Heavenly Spring : This sure Hope gives (Gladdening the Universe with cheerful ring) To Nature and to Man's immortal mind, That both shall live again, renew'd, refin'd? SUBJECT. Invocation to the Month of May. — The Agricultural Character of the County, paucity of Manufactures therein. — The County Towns. — Kington, Charles the Second and Mrs. Siddons there. — Leominster, Weobley, and Ledbury. — Ross. — The River Lugg. — Eminent Men conected with the County. — ^John Guillim the Herald. — Roger of Hereford, Bishops Putta, Wilfred, Athelstane, Lozing, Raynelm, Bruce, De Bethune, De Breton, Fox, Hoadley, Skipp, Miles Smith, Huntingford, and Musgrave. — Cardinal Wolsey once Dean. — ^Joanna de Bohun. — Henry the Fifth. — The Rev. Canon Phillips. — ^John Phillips the Poet. — Davis and Gerthenge, James Cornewell, Nell G Wynne, Sir John Geers Cotterell, Sir Uvedale Price, Bart., Richard Payne Knight, Thomas Andrew Knight, Sir Samuel Rush Meyriclc, Dean Merewether, Duncumb, Fosbrooke, Joseph Bird, James Wathen, John Webb. — William Havard. —David Garrick, Dr. Clarke Whitfi^eld, Dr. John Bull. David Cox, Charles Lucy, Benjamin Jennings, Jun. — Bishop Gilbert, Dean Langford, the Duchess of Somerset. — The Rev. Chancellor Taylor, the Rev. Dr. Talbot, founder of the County Lifirmary. Rise, rise, sweet May, and let the day Thy opening glances take ! The Skylark's throat Avith silvery note, Bids thee from slumber wake ! On dale and hill, the Daffodil Shakes off the heavy dew ! The Cowslip bright doth greet the light, And welcomes Spring and you ! 86 HEREFORDIA. 2, O'er velvet lawn, the milk-white Fawn Gambols all blithe and free : On silken grass, both lad and lass Now foot it daintily ! A sluggard ne'er, with matted hair, Waste not fair Morning's breath : Or, sallow cheek will soon bespeak A poison worse than death ! 3- To hail on lawn the Sun at dawn Brings cheerfulness and health ! The Bee on wing is gathering Her store of honey' d wealth ! To crown Thee queen with garland green. Thick set with Pink and Rose, A fairy band, link'd hand in hand, Doth lovingly propose ! 4- Away, away, where breezes play O'er beds of soft perfume ! See, Flora leads to daisied meads A train of richest bloom ! HEREFORDIA. 87 Then rise, sweet May, and let the clay Thy early kisses take ! The Skylark's throat, with silvery note Bids thee from slumber wake ! Herefordia e'er to agriculture given, There manufactures have but little thriven ; And thus, her towns are few and small, but fair. Not rich in art, but fixed midst beauties rare. Through Kington, placed by Radnor's hilly side. Sparkling and swift, the Arrow's waters glide. There, Charles, when outcast, and his fortunes frown'd. Ere Worcester's battle, safe asylum found ; Now, too, remains the Talbot-hostelry, Which shelter gave to fallen royalty ; There, Siddons first appeared in girlish age, The future queen of Britain's tragic stage. Whose name, with Garrick, Kemble, Powell, too, O'er Hereford no common halo threw. Then, Lem'ster, seated in a valley warm. And Weobley, cosy, snug, and safe from harm, HEREFORDIA. Enjoy sweet peace, in troublous times not known, When Stephen wore uneasily the crown. 'Midst fertile soil, Ledbury, Bromyard stand, Where apple, pear, and hop, enrich the land ; Nor distant far, Ross, with her wood-clad hills, O'er meads and corn-fields thick, complacent smiles A landscape pointing to the mind and eye. Such only found where flows the matchless Wye. Now quits the Muse her pleasing task to guide, But bids the thoughtful rambler turn aside, And ere, to Hereford he sighs, " Adieu ! " Of Relpeck Church and Castle take a view. Then Madley, with her decorated tower, Will hold the critic through a pleasant hour. I. Through a rich sweep of woods and meadows green, The lazy Lugg doth wind its quiet way ; Now hid by copses, then in valley seen. Till, with the Wye its yellow stream doth play. 2. Glide on, fair river ! as thy silent wave Flows from its tiny source to peaceful end, THK -SVYE, FROM THE PltOsPKCT, KOSS. 'The Prospect boasts, besides its sacred bead, The path which Kyrle delighted once to tread, With narrow purse, j-et soul enlarged he bore Himself the friend of all the neighbouring poor." Herefordia..— Canto II HEREFORDIA. 8 (J So may life gently ebb from birth to grave, Soothed by the thoughts which wisdom's path attend. 3- Steering a course that flees both rock and shoal, Delighting now in sunshine, now in shade, Noiseless and safe may Man attain the goal, Where Providence a place of rest hath made. 4- Who scans the book of Nature, doth not need Lessons of duty to the young or old ; Jehovah wills that he who runs may read, Where, knowledge yields, of price and form untold. o- Who hath not seen beneath the crystal stream. The polish'd pebble, variegate and bright : Like sparkling gem it brilliantly doth gleam, All rich with beaut)', rosy tint, and light ? 6. Thus virtue shines in its own element ; A kindred soil its lustre multiplies. The future, mindful, gives to each event The meed of praise which present time denies. r po HEREFORDIA. 7. A distant ray doth more intensely glow, Familiarity doth lessen worth ! Posterity, though late, doth justice do, AVhen unrequited merit leaves the Earth, 8. A prophet hath no honour in his day. Nor earns he favour in his native land ; But when the sainted spirit flies away. His tomb is garnish' d by a stranger -hand ! II. How Providence hath graced thy ancient shire, Old Hereford, the Muse with feeble lyre Hath sung ; and ere she close the lettered page, Whether or not it lives a day, or age, Duty and love would fain her lay extend. Where fancies with the rural picture blend, — To scribe their names, whose virtue, deed, or mind Have ever service done to human kind ! Then, who so fit to lead the goodly roll. As Guillim learned, witty, quaint old soul. Father of heraldry, and blazoned lore. On whose illumined tome the students pore, HEREFORDIA. 9^ Puzzled with strange beasts, fishes, and a train Of symbols coined in mythologic brain ! Roger of Hereford, a century Ere Bacon lived, versed in astronomy, A treatise wrote upon Astrology, With book on metals couched most daintily. III. Few Sees can boast of bishops such a hne. Whose learning, piety and goodness shine ; Lavish of gold they raised their ancient seat, The Minster grand, religion's calm retreat ! There, Putta, Milfred, ruled when first it rose, Athelstane next, who, (later scribes suppose), Founded the present pile. Then did succeed Lozing, Raynelm, Bruce, De Bethune : these, we read, The fabric finished. By the liberal aid Of Joanna de Bohun soon was made The Lady Chapel, glory of the place ! Of Bishops Booth and Audley then we trace The work ; and next, of Bishop Stanbury, The latter sent to Sarum's richer see. The list gives scholars great and not a few, De Breton, Fox, Hoadley, Skipp, (prelates, too) : 92 HEREFORDIA. The famed Miles Smith who Glo'ster's mitre wore, And Huntingford his honours meekly bore. Musgrave beloved, alas ! too early gone, Then ably filled Saint Cantilupe's fair throne. Who, rightly borne to Ebor's stately chair. Next ruled with firm but kindly spirit there. In him were blended, for his office high. Due meekness, reverence, and charity ; And best of all, the wisdom which doth teach Christ's minister to practice more than preach : He through long life observed with constant view Precepts praised by many, kept but by few. Nor did the lofty Wolsey think too mean Of Hereford, and so was once its dean. Step lowest of the hill he dared to climb. Ne'er since attain'd, — rough, dangerous, yet sublime ! IV. Henry the Fifth, though on its confines born, Within the county spent his childhood's morn, Was bred at Bicknor, in the family Of the then powerful Earl of Salisbury. His nurse's tomb, with effigy is set There, in the church of fair Saint Margaret. HEREFORDIA. 93 In later times^ the canon Phillips claims Our praise, whose loyalty past history names, As having lodged some days at Withington Prince Charles, in the year sixteen fifty-one, After Worcester's battle, when on his head A price was set, but happily not paid. Nor must we slight the good old clerk's grandson, John Phillips, who, our famous Cider on. In classic verse (with other poems) wrote, As bard and scholar stamping him with note. The poet Davies too, and Gerthenge, then Whom Fuller names as "having used the pen, The best in England." The first lived to be Master in ^^Titing to the Prince Henry ! If gallantry and courage, honored be, The noble Cornewall needs no eulogy ; Who, in his ship, the mighty Marlborough proved How English tars can fight ; how much he loved His country ; and, there, dying oft' Toulon, From the opposing hosts their praises won. v. Save, for one fault — and who is free from sin ? — The city needs not blush for fair Nell Gwynne, 94 HEREFORDIA. The once poor apple-girl, then favourite, Of gay King Charles, born near the palace-site, Where, long, her grandson, Lord James Beauclerc, wore Hereford's mitre. Honour well he bore To his ancestress ; her, whose charity, For our brave soldiers' weal her sympathy. The Hospital at Chelsea did endow, A work of love which marks her memory now ! For sterhng worth, the fine old gentleman, The friend of rich and poor, we ne'er may scan, Geers Cotterell's fellow. Whilst Garnons rears Its head, his name throughout succeeding years Will be the pleasing theme of old and young. Still dear to hearts, in their affections strong ! VI. For love of Nature, philosophic mind. In learning skill'd, all men of taste refin'd, Uvedale Price, the gentle brothers. Knight, A trio form, rare, excellent, and bright ! To those delighting in black-lettered lore. Who Fosbrook's, Meyrick's, Duncumb's works explore. Their deep research and patience will descry. Safe pioneers in art and history ! HEREFORDIA. 95 And Havard, come of low but honest birth, Claims eulogy for industry and worth. The generous aid his fortune freely shed On youth deserving, in the county bred : And deeply versed in archseologic field. Whose labours ancient treasure oft revealed. Uniting too, rich fund of anecdote. With local customs, and events of note. Dean Merewether, Wathen, Webb, and Bird, Will long be m.ention'd with a kindly word ! VII. Whilst Avon's Swan his magic sceptre sways. For deathless song, sweet poesy, and plays, Must Garrick's fame endure. His genius rife To Shakspeare's thoughts gave force, and hre, and life. Suiting the actor in his wondrous part, Absorbing person, character, and heart. Portrayed in narrow bound of mimic stage, Th' awaken'd spirits of a former age. Though late, yet loved, whilst sounds the sacred song. And voices soft in swelling measures throng. The hearers pause to catch the notes again, Th' impassion'd tones of Whitfifeld's solemn strain. 96 HEREFORDIA. And when the Nation's loyal anthem peals — " God save the Queen " upon the organ swells, The ancient College doth take honour full, Her hall associate with the fame of Bull, The author of that soul-inspiring song, Whose strains from year to year our tongues prolong. VIII. And whilst we care for learning, and for youth, Their early training and their moral growth. The Muse would speak with gratitude and pride ; For, Gilbert, Langford, Somerset, divide The noble work by them so well design' d, The school to educate our children's mind. Nor fails the hand which pens these feeble lays, To trace slight tribute of his love and praise, For one, whose guidance led, in truant youth. His early bent to science and to truth ! Nature, history, music, and the lore, On which the classic mind delights to pore, Find students here : so, homage Art receives. And o'er the youthful sculptor, Jennings, grieves ; Who, had he chanced maturer years to gain, Would not have plied his taste and skill in vain. HEREFORDIA. 97 With gifted pencil, Cox's veteran hand, In sparkhng landscape held supreme command ; O'er tangled thicket, leafy lane, and dell, Threw sunny gleams, the rainbow's magic spell. Whilst, too, in glowing tints our painters speak. The canvas teems with Beaut)''s smiling cheek, And Lucy's genius ever will siu'vive. The lineaments of Kyrle sublime shall live ! From England's annals, in her darker hour, Scenes, full of tragic incidents and power. His later works with vivid force portray, Worthy of Art in its most palmy day. IX. Spirit of Faith, of holy thought and word, Thy blissful reign and sacred shrine record. Spirit of Faith, thy visions bright we see Through Jesus' Cross in Time's Eternity I Spirit of Charit}-, thy teachings mild Disenthral the soul, leave it undefiled ; Prompting the heart to love, the hand to share The woes to which humanity is heir ; To soothe the wants of infancy and age, The chilling gripe of penury assuage. 98 HEREFORDIA. Thus shaped thy life, so sweet thy memory, That ne'er a monument shall needed be, Talbot ; whilst yon fair House with ample door, With skill and comfort cheers the suffering poor : Whilst Herefordia holds her honour'd name. Recorded, there, shall be thy lasting fame. -_jj^ltfr.k'i fJHih SUBJECT. Song. — A Parallel between Foreign Countries and England. — Natural Tendency of Man to respect his Place of Birth. — Reflections on the Past, Present, and Future. — Appeal to the Reader. — Hereford as seen from Aylstone Flill and Broomy Hill. — Allusion to Changes in the Scenery. — The Railway. — Increase of Flouses in the Vicinity. — May Dance on Broomy Hill. — Reference to the Hatterail, or Black Mountain. — The Floly Mountain. — May- Hill and Malvern Hills. — The Catholic Cathedral at Belmont. — The Two New Churches of St. Nicholas and St. Martin. — The Churches of St. Peter and All Saints, and the Cathedral. — Legend of the Spirit of the Wye. — The Hospitality shewn by the People of Herefordshire to Strangers. — The Generous Disposition of the Men. — High Character of the Female Sex. — The Produce of the County, Cattle, Sheep, Florses, Apples, Flops, Cyder, Fruit, and Corn. — The Gleaners' Song. — Allusion to the fine Timber grown in the District, and the celebrated Oak Trees at Sarnsfield, Eastwood, Moccas, and Eardisley. — Reflection on the great Blessings conferred by Providence on the Country generally, and the mutual Obligations under which Persons are placed one to the other, both as Individuals and Citizens. — Con- clusion. I. Away, away, to sunny lands and skies. Where cloud-wreath'd mountains don a cap of snow ! Away, away, where dark-eyed houri vies. And chains the heart with passion's fervid glow. 2. Away, away, to Italy's soft clime, Where lake and streamlet lave the vine-clad vales ; Away, away, where tinkling cymbals chime, And fair-haifd maidens chaunt their love-lorn tales. I02 HEREFORDIA. 3- Away, away, where fields of Gold abound, Where grape and pomegran't swell the wine-crown' d feast ; Away, away, where sparkling gems are found. To fairy gardens in the gorgeous East. 4- Away, away, and take your pleasure's fill ; O'er Earth and Sea in search of Beauty roam Then sated, sigh for England's dale and hill. The joy and comfort of your own dear Home. 5. Slight not that Home of Liberty and Peace, The Land which yields thee wealth and social love ; Whose Laws, to fetter'd Slaves, ensure release, And to thy Sons the hope of bliss above ! I. Distant and mean though be the spot of earth. Which, once his home, still owns the wanderer's birth. Yet thoughts and scenes familiar to the eye, (When age recurs to sparkling infancy), Return, like fancies in a morning dream. Prove but brief joys, though real all would seem ! HEREFORDIA. 103 Bright was the sun of Hope in childhood's day, Lighter the heart that chased dull Care away ; The hearth more gay which held the social throng, Sweeter the voice that hymn'd the sacred song. The face remains (the form is gone above), With smiles that speak a parent's ceaseless love ; Like angels watching o'er a soul that tries, Vainly, to join them in their paradise ! « How oft in gloomy haze the Future lowers, The Present weeps in melancholy hours, And yet the Past, by tender hnk, revives The bliss which love in kindred heart conceives ! II. Now tell me, dear Companion of my song. Wearied or pleased upon the wayside long, Com'st thou, a stranger from a land remote. With ear and eye quick to perceive and note ; Perchance, returning after years of toil. And grief, again thou tread' st thy native soil ; To clasp old friends in sweet and firm embrace, Once more the haunts of infant-years to trace % Then join me on the brow of Athelstane, Thence view the ancient City in the plain ; I04 HEREFORDIA. And climb again old Broomy's grassy hill, Where Contemplation loves to hnger still. There, see the change so late come o'er the scene, W'here Vaga flows through daisied banks serene ; These spann'd afresh wiLh bridge of iron form, The path for Railway, broad, and strong, and warm ; Where shoots the engine with its valve of steam, A giant coursing with unearthly team. Tearing along by strange, expansive power, As many miles as minutes count the hour ! TIT. Nature yet smiles; but here and there intrude Clusters of houses on her neighbourhood ; With sounds of voices, marks of human feet, Outnumb'ring those we once, on May-morn sweet, Led through the dance in joyance and in ease. On Broomy's slope, beneath her aged trees. A screen from western winds, dark Hatterail By mountain-range protects the fertile vale : Where Hereford on Monmouth's border ends, High, steep, and clear, the Holy Mount ascends ; Thence onward glancing, in the dappled east, May-Hill and Malvern's outlines soft are traced. HEREFORDIA. 105 But close at hand, where Behnont-woods surround, A gothic pile surmounts the rising ground, A rival beauty, viewing with disdain Saints Nicholas and Martin in the plain. These dwarf-like seem, when quietly survey'd Beneath the Minster's high and ample shade, Back'd by All Saints, Saint Peter's tap'ring fane, Whence Lacey fell, — by accident was slain. Who roams along the River's peaceful shore, Recalling incidents of Legend-lore, Can fail to raise the soul's ecstatic part, Mark scenes which please the eye and touch the heart ; Watching the hours, as on the Dial's face. The march of Time all silently they trace ? I. List to the young Lark's carol high, Soft warbhng through the Summer sky ; See, see, the Sun's declining beam, With golden streak, paints Vaga's stream : All clothed in shadows deep and red. Fair Belmont lifts her classic head. And breathing sweets o'er bank and bower, Now welcomes Evening's soothing hour. io6 HEREFORDIA. 2. The busy crowd doth cease to bear Their wonted burthens, toil, and care. The Mind, o'erstrain'd, its functions flies ; Labour in quiet slumber lies : And Pain and Sorrow, eased, forego Their keenest pang, their bitterest woe : Ambition slacks its onward race. Repose now reigns o'er Nature's face. 3- As Day recedes behind the West, Kissing the clouds on Heaven's breast, Grey twilight hails the crescent Moon, Queen of the Night in balmy June : And wooed by Zephyr's breath serene, Mute Contemplation views the scene, Where near the River's liquid way. Beauty and Love enraptured stray. 4- Now lost for once in silvery shroud, Pale Luna hides in fleecy cloud : Hark ! trilling on the ravish'd ear, Sweet Philomel sings soft and clear, HEREFORDIA. 107 And darting from the osiers' side, A fairy skiff ascends ihe tide : Plaintive and low, a maiden's wail Now emulates the sighing gale. 5- In slender shallop, swift and light, The River-Spirit haunts the Night ; Repeats her lone unhappy tale, All widow' d, joyless, thin, and pale. Shaping her course Avhere once did gleam, Her lover's barque on Yaga's stream, She still pursues the midnight-wave, With dirge laments his bloody grave. 6. " Weave me a wreath, a cypress wreath. Bring streamers from the willow grove ; Senseless and cold the sod beneath, Lies all I mourn, lies all I love. " Weave me a wreath, a cypress wreath, And with me weep, fair swan, and dove ; Wasting and low, the sod beneath. Lies all I've lost, lies all I love. io8 HEREFORDIA. " Light of my soul, star of my life, Nature, and I for thee must mourn, Till death shall end my pining grief, Our ashes mingle in one urn." IV. If stranger rove within this ancient shire, The rambler finds the kindest v/elcome here : Generous and warm, the sons of Hereford All comers greet, at their well-fumish'd board. Right cold is he to female beauty's charm, If thy fair daughters ne'er his heart disarm, By grace, good-nature, and fresh, blooming cheek. Armour 'gainst which Creation's lords are weak ! True love and loyally, like roses, tvv^ine, So e'er unrivall'd do thy maidens shine. If monarchs be by rustic beauty won, Folk smaller must the soft impeachment own : Round, soft and crimson'd as the apples fair, Their lips enticing, and resistless are ; Who tastes them once, will surely ne'er refrain. Ere he forgets to steal a kiss again. ^^3^- GOODRICH COURT, AND GOODRICH CASTLK. Within few steps, the stranger may descry Fair Goodrich Court and Castle rising high." Herefoudi a . — C a nto III. HEREFORDIA. 109 V. The strength and sinew which thy yeomen yield, To guard their homes, and plough the fertile field ; The fleecy flocks and kine of purest breed ; Horses for draught, or train'd to greater speed ; Large stores of edibles to market borne, With apples, cyder, hops, and fruit, and corn, Form but few items of the ample hoard, The staple growth of fine old Hereford. Then, hear the Gleaners' Song, its loud encore. Through green glades, hark ! their joyous strains nov/ pour. Hie to the li^^ field, the busy field. Where poppies wave so lightly. Then thread the meads, where lambs conceal'd. E'er join in frolics sprightly. 2. Bright as the Sun, that cheers the day. The Reaper's Sickle gleameth ; And swift as lightning clears its way. Where yellow Barley streameth ! HEREFORDIA. 3- Then up the hill, and down the dale, Come, lasses, trip it lightly; O'er hedge and ditch, through brake and vale, Where Fairies pace it nightly. 4- Rise, quickly rise, and brush the dew, Which drapes brown Autumn's morning ; Thick clover-grass fast scamper through, To glean the Corn at dawning. 5- Kind Providence guards rich and poor, His mercy ever bideth ; For great and bimll, His boundless store A Harvest full provideth. Then ridge by ridge o'er fields now roam : The largest sheaf he beareth. Who, ere he takes his burthen home, Nor time nor labour spareth ! VI. Here, too, the Oak, the forest-king appears. Of aspect noble, rich in shade and years, HEREFORDIA. With lofty elm, the graceful ash and yew, The beech and willov/, pride of sylvan view, Whose leaves prove grateful to the feather d throng, Which cheers the summer day with tuneful song. He rightly sees thy sylvan glories shine, Where stature, strength, and grand proportions shine Their giant limbs extending broad and high. At Sarnsfield, Eastwood, Moccas, Eardisley ; Who then doth think how many pelting storms, And wintry blasts have rack'd their stalwart forms. Must own the Power which rears from tiny seed Such wondrous trees, must be Divine indeed. The work of man, to Hve a day, a year. Wants constant care, material repair ; But Providence to plants, in age and youth, Vouchsafes self-nurture, self-defence, and growth : By such gives shelter to the beast and bird, On all both use and ornament conferr'd ! VII. Since Providence hath bless'd the fruitful land, His bounties scatter'd with a liberal hand ; Should not the mind its denizens e'er train To thoughts and works, wherein their interests join ? 112 HEREFORDIA. Who wealth enjoys, to hhii a trust is given, T' administer the sacred gift of Heaven ; To migitate stern Want and Poverty, Encourage useful Knowledge, Industry ; Respect the rights which man from man may ask, Make equal laws, the sage's noblest task. If this v/ere done, Corruption soon must cease. And hated War succumb to arts of Peace ; No tricksters, then for pubHc place and pay. Would e'er debase the crowd in open day ; Nor forced by petty shifts to hold their rule, Ne'er rob the State, the Nation's sense befool. Small evils are not cared for, so we bear The yoke, until it be too bad to wear, Nor till their reign a rankling nuisance grows, To crush it will the Pubhc Mind propose : Who dares, by wiles, to win your confidence. To pilfer next, will quickly make pretence. VIII. Diogenes, to find an honest man, With lamp in hand the thoroughfares did scan. The Muse, to seek a statesman great and true. Must lantern use, and double glasses too ! HEREFORDIA. 113 Red tape, and nepotism, and low deceit. Now form, alas ! the common counterfeit : From rulers such let all devoutly pray That fate will rid us at an early day. Should Patriots again (a race like Peel), Within Saint Stephen's Hall their light reveal, The Muse might hail Britannia's sky more clear, Reform and Progress, stars ascendant there. Where England reigns, by far a higher aim Than empty sov'reignty should wreath her name. Conquest alone can give no moral right To stranger-lands, to rule by threat and might. For practised wrongs possession is no plea ; C ivilization, — Christianity Are but the cover to Hypocrisy, When made the means of loss and misery To people far-removed, who neither need England's doubtful friendship, her rule, or aid. Thy recent trials in the troubled East, Where civil discord made a bloody feast, Should e'er a warning and a lesson prove. Those, who would reign by force and not by love. 114 HEREFORDIA. Will, soon or late, in fearful conflict be With the sad objects of their cruelty; Nor will the foe Death's messenger recall. E'en though the guiltless with the guilty fall. IX. 'Tis best be poor, than feel the galling stain Of fraud and wrong assail our smallest gain ; Ill-gotten wealth hath wings and curses too, Pangs bitterer than griping Want e'er knew : Then, say, Britannia, (the World's fair Queen), Is thy sceptre bright, thy hand fair and clean ? Though to thy sway thy sons allegiance owe, Yet, there are duties thou may'st not forego : To comfort, aid, encourage by reward, The men whose lives thy island-fortress guard ; To keep implicit faith in work and word, So that thy pledge to others' be preferr'd ; To stifle strife, befriend the poor and weak. To do the right thou dost in precepts speak ; Justice to love, and so exemplify, By holy deeds, thy Christianity ! How comes it then, that Lucre paves the way To thy councils : that Wealth, in grand array. HEREFORDIA. All honour wins ; that Vice, in splendour set, Is current passport to a Coronet? How fare thy brave defenders, rough but true 1 Requited how the perils they go through ? Privations, hardships, ever bear a price. Four groats a day may possibly suffice ; And what, for faults, how venal though they be, The knotted scourge is't fitting penalty 1 A sin so foul, the Muse would fain disclaim ; But England owns it, to her lasting shame ! To say "that Britons never shall be slaves," Is idle boast, whilst o'er thy children waves The hateful lash. Far worse than slaves they be, The mangled victims of such tyranny ! The Law which such injustice perpetrates. The State which wanton Torture tolerates. In Christian practice have no real place. Wanting its Mercy, Charity, and Grace ! X. Ere quits the Muse, a scene so soft and fair, Wliich breathes of home, and parents' early care. She now would weave in this, her parting song, Their honour'd names, whose love so deep and long, ii6 HEREFORDIA. A glow of sunshine throws around her heart, Not to be quench' d till hfe and she shall part ! To wish them here, were idle, wild, and vain, To vex their souls with mortal coils again ; Their present bliss this would too keenly mar, The which her anxious Mind must yearn to share And distant though the sweet re-union be, Hope augurs joy as grows its certainty ! XI, Farewell, then, Herefordia ! Thy pure fame Is to the Bard dear as his humble name. Thy ancient boundary speaks to him of home . Whate'er he sees, where'er his footsteps roam. Recall sweet memories, such as may no more Be tasted, save on Heaven's eternal shore. Where all things shine with glory, life, and light, The Father, Son, and Spirit Infinite ! The theme is endless, and the Muse too weak Thy beauties all in fitting words to speak. She, loth, must flee to ruder scenes afar, Where, congregated thousands, hustling jar ; Where, trade and commerce busy traffic drive, The scholar, politician earnest strive, HEREFORDIA. And ermined lawyers sit in grave debate, Adjusting grievous WTongs in Church and State. XII. Adieu ! Herefordia ! — Farewell ! sweet Wye ! On thy green banks fain would I listless lie, Court soothing Sleep, sister of pulseless Death, Closing the eye, but not the living breath ; And binding Reason, whilst, through airy groves Unchained and loose, Imagination roves : Revels in dreams, which, like to frosted flowers, Fly, when the sun of life his morn-beam showers : And when exhausted proves the vital sand. My soul is wafted to the better land, Let friendly hands, with simple tribute, trace A corner there for my last resting place I XIII. Next to our Kindred doth our Country come, The spot which gives us birth, our childhood's home. No object, there, of beauty, love, or tie, In after-years escapes the memory. 117 ii8 HEREFORDIA. As the pure Soul doth yearn for holy Truth, The Mind reviews the haunts of early youth : Where'er we wander, be it east or west, That place, recall' d, appears the last and best. So, did the Muse this pleasing task essay. With Herefordia link her lengthen'd lay. END OF THE POEM. CANTO I. The County of Hereford comprises a portion of the ancient Siluria which extended over Monmouthshire, the Forest of Dean, and the whole of South Wales, except the County of Pembroke. This district was inhabited by the Dimetse Tribes. That part of Here- fordshire, lying west of the parish of Byford, and now strerching to Radnorshire and Brecon, is said to have been formerly in- cluded in Wales. A portion of the localities enumerated in the poem, — namely Ludlow, Tintern, and Chepstow, — do not properly belong to the County of Hereford ; but, they are comprised in the Diocese, which extends over a large portion of Shropshire, and a part of Monmouthshire. " /;/ deep defile^ beneath the granite cone'' The range of hills, known as the Plinlimmon, situate partly in the Counties of Radnor and Montgomery, commences a few miles above the Town of Rhayader. In these hills, the highest point of which rises 2463 feet above the level of the sea, is the spring from which the River Wye (anciently called the Vaga, from its meander- ing course) originates. The source also of its sister stream, the Severn, is to be found in the same mountain-district. The Wye, as HEREFORDIA. indicated in the poem, descends from its hilly bed, and on its way- forms a wide and beautiful cataract, a short distance from Rhayader, where it finds its level. It passes from thence to Penybont, Builth, Hay, Hereford, Ross, Monmouth, and Chepstow, falling about two miles below the latter place, into the broad channel of the Severn. The Plinlimmon Hills, although of high elevation, comprise a series of undulating surfaces rather than a mountainous ridge of very prominent elevation. These hills, by their peculiar form, afforded a shelter to the renowned Welsh chieftain, Owen Glen- dwr, who, with a force only of 120 men, in the year 1401, was enabled, for several months, to withstand the attacks of an army greatly superior both in numbers and appliances. " The river winds Hay church and castle nighr The town of Hay, or, as it is usually styled, " The Hay," situate on the confines of Brecon, is only separated from Herefordshire by the river Wye. It has some historical associations with the 'doings of Llewellyn and King John. By the latter, the castle was destroyed, in the year 12 16, and, with the exception of a gothic gateway, there are not now any remains of much interest to the antiquarian. It is a singular fact, that the town of Monmouth is similarly separated from Herefordshire only by the Wye. Ludlow also abuts on the county, being isolated from it by the river Teame ; and Hereford- shire, in like manner, adjoins Worcestershire, close to the town of Tenbury. The town of New Radnor, also, is situate not far dis- tant from Herefordshire, on its south-western boundary. " So droops De Cliffords stronghold bleak and barer " Clifford Castle," which stands upon the north bank of the river Wye, was built by William Fitz-Ozborne, Earl of Hereford, but was held at the time of the Doomsday Book by Rudolphus de Totenie. It was acquired by the Cliffords by the marriage of Walter Fitz- Richard with Margaret, daughter of Ralph de Cundy. Walter Fitz-Richard, being a descendant of Richard IL, Duke of Normandy, whose father accompanied the Conqueror into England, and, having married the heiress of Ralph de Cundy, of Clifford Castle, took the name of De Clifford. The place continued to be the baronial seat of the family for two centuries. Here was born the too celebrated lady, of whom Dryden says: — ■ "Jane Clifford was her name, as books declare, F'air Rosamond was but her iwm de srii^en-e^'' NOTES TO CANTO I. 123 Shs was daughter of one of the Earls of CHfford, and became celebra;ed for her amours with King Henry II., who built her a tower, in Woodstock Park, which he defended from his jealous wife by the classical device of a labyrinth. Queen Eleanor, however, who was as well read in ancient history as her spouse, was not slow in hitting upon the expedient of finding the clue of the thread and in reaching her rival. The historical romances add, that she com- pelled this unfortunate lady to swallow poison. Whatever may have been her fate. Fair Rosamond was buried at Godstow, and the following Latin epitaph is inscribed on her tomb : — •' Hie jacet in tomba, Non Rosamonda seel Rosa jNIundi, Non redolet, sed olet, Qui redolere solet." It has been translated thus : — " Here lies not Rose the Chaste, but Rose the Fair, Whose breath perfumes no more, but taints the air." The ruins of Clifford Castle, completely covered with ivy, look down solemn and sad upon the Wye : — " Clifford has fallen, howe'er sublime. Mere fragments wrestle still with time. Yet as they perish, sad and slow. And rolling dash the streams below. They raise traditions gloomy scene, The clue of silk and wrathful queen, And link in memory's fairest bond, The love-born tale of Rosamond." " On Ht'rjford^fjir City of the Wye'' The city of Hereford is of great antiquity, and in the time of the Heptarchy, was the capital of the Mercian kingdom. It stands about 250 feet above the sea-level, on a deposit of gravel, 900 acres in extent, and from 15 to 33 feet in depth. The rocks of which this gravel is mainly composed, have been identified with those found some forty miles higher up the river Wye, in the valley of the Ithon, and in the vicinity of Builth and Rhayader. The population of the city and its liberties was 12,108 in the year 185 1 ; it has since, however, much increased through the advantages of being made the centre of four important railways, namely, the Ross and Gloucester, the Hereford and New})ort, the Shrewsbur)-, and the 124 HEREFORDIA. Worcester lines. All of these railways are now completed, except the lat.er, which is now in course of formation from Malvern; and a fifth hne is projected to Hay and Brecon. The present site of the city was, during the Roman era, occupied by a village, called, by the Britons, Caerffawydd, or the Beech Town. The existing city became, in the year 586, the capital of the principality of Mercia, and was called by the Anglo-Saxons Fernlege^ or the place of Ferns. The origin of the name Hei-eford has been the subject of much speculation. The Anglo-Saxon words, •' Here-I-Foi'd^' or, " Here is a Ford," have been mentioned as probable derivations, but the necessity of a seco?id Saxon name does not appear, th^Jirst having been Feinilege. " Hearde-ford, a " Ford for herds" has also been suggested. The Britons, no doubt, pre- ferred a name of their own, and on the disappearance of the Beeches, would probably find another. This could be readily pre- sented in the Roman Road from Magna to Wigornia (Worcester), which passes at about a mile distance to the north of the city. Heiifford, signifying " The Old Road," is the modern Welsh name ; another supposed derivation is Garivffo?'dd, or "the Rough-road," gutturals being often dropped in the transition from one tongue to another ; thus, E7'einnwg, " The Orchard," the ancient British name of this part of Siluria. Haroldfort has also been mentioned as its possible origin, the castle of Hereford having, after the ravages of the Welsh, in 1055, been strongly repaired by Harold, afterwards king. In ancient maps and descriptions, the names Hariford and Haeford frequently occur. The historical incidents of the city are briefly sketched in the poem, from the period of the Heptarchy to the civil wars of Charles I. The city was rewarded, after the Restoration, by a new charter, and an augmentation of the city-arms, with the motto, Iiivictce Prcemiiun Fidditatis. Since that period, no event of any historical importance has occurred in the city or county. " Reft is her castle, all her ramparts lost!' The casde of Hereford is described by Leland as having been one of the fairest, largest, and strongest fortifications in England. It stood on the north bank of the Wye, slightly eastward of the cathedral, and consisted of two wards. In the smaller, or western one, on a lofty artificial mound, was the keep, which had ten semicir- cular towers in the outer wall, and one great tower within, beneath which was a dungeon. The dimensions of the eastern ward were, NOTES TO CANTO 11. 125 175 yards in the north and south, 196 in the east, and 100 in the west. The smaller ward measured 100 yards on the south and east, on the north and west were three sides, of sixty-five yards each. A moat, crossed on the west side of the smaller tower, by a bridge of s-one arches, with a drawbridge in the middle, surrounded the whole. Ethelfleda, who died a.d. 920, and was succeeded in the government of Mercia by her brother, Edward the Elder, com- menced the castle and city wall. The latter was sixteen feet high, and extended round the city on all sides except the south, where it was defended by the river. Projecting from the wall at intervals were fifteen semicircular embattled watch towers, thirty-four feet high, called from their shape, " half-moons," and having embrasures in the shape of crosses in the centre for observation and the discharge of arrows. Although portions of the wall have been rebuilt and repaired since the days of Ethelfleda, the present scanty but interest- ing remains undoubtedly stand on the ancient foundation. The length of the wall was 1,800 yards, and that of the intervening space, defended by the river, 550 ; the total circumference of the city (intra-mural) being 2,350 yards. There were originally six gates, or bars, at the principal entrances. A moat, which was obtained by directing the course of a neighbouring brook, surrounded the wall, and, until the recent alterations in and about the city, a shallow stream remained in its place. After the final subjugation of Wales by Edward I., the castle, being no longer needed as a means of defence, was allowed to fall into decay. Ruinous in the time of Leland, the devastation of civil war, a century later, could not fail to accelerate its destruction, and in 1652, subsequent to its gallant defence against the Scotch, by Barnabas Scudamore, the materials of the building were seized as royal property by the Parliamentary Commissioners, and disposed of for £85, as their gross value. CANTO II. " To trace the groivth of yon stupendous pile!' The history of the Cathedral church of Hereford, from its foundation in the Saxon era, to the end of the eighteenth century, is briefly sketched in the text. 126 HEREFORDIA. The dignitaries and officers, attached to the cathedral, now in- clude the bishop, dean, two archdeacons, four canons residentiary (who, with the dean, form the chapter) ; the chancellor of the diocese, chancellor of the cathedral, precentor, succentor, praelector, trea- surer and sub-treasurer, twenty-eight prebendaries (four prebendal stalls being held by as many canons) ; the custos and vicars choral of the college, an organist, a chapter-clerk, six lay deacons, and ten choristers. The stipends attached to seventeen of the prebends, have been, by a recent act of parhament, transferred to the Ecclesiastical Com- missioners ; a species of legalised spoliation, which, it is submitted, can be justified on no reasonable grounds. It is conceived, that these ancient institutions were intended to be conferred as rewards upon distinguished members of the parochial clergy within the diocese ; and as such they gave additional importance and dignity to the cathedral establishment. Nor can it be imagined how this act of spoliation was tacitly assented to by the bishop of the diocese, who was (except in one instance), the patron of all the prebendal stalls. It might, however, have been rendered more tolerable had the emoluments been re- tained, and had the prebendal dignity been incorporated with some of the less valuable parochial preferments in the gift of the bishop. But that the property of these strictly local appendages to the See and Cathedral should have been appropriated by, and added to, the funds of an ecclesiastical commission, wholly independent of, and irresponsible to, the diocesan authorities, is an instance of the grasping manner in which parliament is allowed to deal with private interests, and can only be accounted for on the principle of " robbing Peter to pay Paul." " The ancie7tt College with its spacious SqiiareT The College, which is a corporation independent of the bishop and the dean and chapter, at present consists of a custos and five vicars choral. The Vicars, in the first place, are nominated by the Chapter, but are subject to rejection by their own body after a year's probation. The custos is chosen for life, the choice gene- rally faUing on the Senior Vicar. The college is built in form of a quadrangle, with obtuse arches, opening into a lawn in the centre, and was erected about 1474. It contains a hall, common room, chapter room, and a chapel, with suites of apartments for the occupation of the members. The college NOTES TO CANTO II. 127 garden adjoins the gardens and grounds of the bishop's palace, being beautifully situate on the banks of the river Wye. Between the cathedral and college is a cloister, connecting the two buildings, one hundred and nine feet in length. " Whilst aitgJit is left 0/ Cantihipe's fair shrined The shrine of the eminent prelate, Thomas Cantilupe, stands on the eastern side of the great northern transept, immediately beneath the apartment now used as the library of the cathedral. " So thy 7ia77ie, Dean Merewether^ shall survive to famer To the untiring zeal, exertions and excellent taste of the late Very Rev. John Merewether, D.D., Dean, who died in the year 1850, may be attributed the noble w^ork of restoration of the cathedral, which is now in course of completion. In it he was ably seconded by the other members of the Chapter, and by the inhabitants of the diocese, cit}^, and county. The altar-screen recently erected in the choir, was the gift of the late Joseph Bailey, jun., Esq., one of the members of parliament for the count}'-, who died in the year 1850, greatly regretted by his constituents, his family, and a large circle of friends. " The neighbour i7ig fanes surround it close at handy Two only of the ancient parochial churches within the city — those of St. Peter and All Saints now remain ; the former situate at the head St, Owen-street, and the latter at the junction of Eign-street and Broad-street. The new churches of St. Nicholas and St. Martin are without the city walls. The late Rev. John Hanbury, M.A., Rector of St. Nicholas, and the late Rev. H. J. Symons, LL.D., Rector of St. Martin, were actively engaged for some years in promoting the erection of the respective edifices. " jVight wanes apace^ the crowd are gojiel' The event described in the ballad, laid the foundation of the future importance and prosperity of the Cathedral. The restless am- bition of Offa, King of Mercia, prompted him to attack the neigh- bouring kingdom of the East Angles, with a view of adding it to his dominions, but he was defeated by the successful valour of Ethelbert. Peace being subsequently concluded, Offa acceded to proposals of 128 HEREFORDIA. marriage between Ethelbert and his daughter Elfrida ; and the young and unsuspecting prince attended, invited, at the palace of OfFa, at South-Town (now Sutton), with a splendid retinue, to treat for the intended spousals. Quendreda, the queen of Offa, is recorded to have prevailed upon her husband to violate the ties of hospitality and humanity, and Ethelbert was treacherously murdered there, a.d. 793. His guards were dispersed; his kingdom, taken by surprise, was annexed to the state of Mercia. The faithful Elfrida, who had been betrothed, if not married to him, retired to Croyland Abbey ; and Offa, seized with remorse, sought to appease his wounded conscience by actions which, at the time, were thought to atone for the deepest delinquency. Offa removed the body of Ethelbert from Harden, where it had been privately buried, to the cathedral of Here- ford, erecting over him a magnificent tomb, and endowed the church with valuable gifts, chiefly situate in the vicinity of his own palace. The known virtues of the murdered prince caused his shrine to be visited as that of a martyr ; and such was the fame of his miracles, that the city and cathedral attained a degree of opulence from the pious contributions of devoted pilgrims. CANTO HI. " The Golde7i Valley anxiously explore^ Where sport invites them to the sparkling Dorel' DoRE Abbey, more commonly called Abbey Dore (the name being derived from the river Doire or Dore), is a parish in the hundred of Webtree, beautifully situate at the head of the Golden Valley. The church is dedicated to the holy Trinity and St. Mary, and consists of a portion of the ancient abbey of White Monks. This was founded in honour of the blessed Virgin Mary, in the reign of King Stephen, by Robert, son of Harold, Lord of Ewyas. It consisted of an abbot and eight monks, whose revenue at the dissolution was valued at £118 2s. The remains of the abbey, now forming the parish church, are highly interesting to the antiquary, and derive additional beauty from their picturesque position. The late Rev. John Duncumb, M.A., the historian of the county, preceded the present incumbent in the rectory, and was, besides his literary talent, greatly resi)ected for his private personal worth and character. NOTES TO CANTO III. 129 " Moccas embosom d in her syh'an shaded Moccas Cour.', the seat of Sir Velters Cornwall, Bart, and Gar- nons, the seat of Sir Henry Geers Cotterell, Bart., are beautifully situate on the north and south banks of the river Wye, about eight miles from Hereford. Belmont, Rotherwas and Holm Lacy (the mansions of Wegg Prosser, Esq., Charles Bodenham, Esq., and Sir E. F. Scudamore Stanhope, Bart ), occupy equally beautiful sites, nearer to the city. The poet Pope, whilst on a visit at Holm Lacy, wrote his well-known sketch, " The Man of Ross," in which he so faithfully porurays the character of John Kyrle, so eminent for his philanthropy and personal virtues. " The scene extends till Ross and Goodrich nighr The town of Ross is said to have been founded from the ruins of the Roman town "Ariconium," which stood at a short distance. It was formerly a free borough, from the time of Henry HI, to the 23rd year of Edward I., when it sent two members to parliament. This privilege was subsequently and finally rehnquished, on the petition of the inhabitants in the follow^ing year. King Henry W . passed a night at Ross on his way to Monmouth to see his queen, at the time his son and successor (Henry of Monmouth and hero of Agincourt), was born. It is said that the king received intelligence of the prince's birth from the ferryman at Goodrich, when he was about to cross the river ; and that he gave the boat and ferry, which were then the property of the crown, to the ferryman, in return for the pleasing news. The unfortunate Charles I. slept at Ross m 1645, on his way from Ragland Castle. The living is a rectory and vicarage united, in the archdeaconry and diocese of Hereford, in the pa^ronage of the bishop. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is an irregularly-built though hand- some edifice, with a lofty and well-proportioned spire, and stands in an extremely beautiful situation. The eastern window is orna- mented with stained glass, and contains a figure of Thomas de Cantilupe, Bishop of Hereford, in the act of benediction. A weekly market was granted to the town by King Stephen to Bishop Breton. The bishops of Hereford had formerly a palace here, which is now demolished ; and an old stone cross, called " Cob's Cross " (a cor- ruption of "Corpus Christi Cross"), is still standing, and supposed to be commemorative of the ravages of the plague, which visited the town in the years 1635-6-7. I30 HEREFORDIA. The benevolent John Kyrle, Pope's " Man of Ross," died here, in 1724, aged eighty-eight, and hes buried in the church, where a rich monument, with a medalhon, was placed to his memory in 1776, from a bequest by Lady Betty Duplin for that purpose. Ross was the birth-place of John de Ross, a celebrated Doctor of Law, who was established by the Pope in the bishopric of CarHsle, without any election, in 1318, and who died in 1331. " The walls and bridge of Wilton grace the scene.'^ " Fair Goodrich Court and Castle rising highr The bridge and ruined castle of Wilton are about a quarter of a mile from Ross, being situate immediately in front of the Prospect. Goodrich Court, the seat of Lady Laura Meyrick (widow of Lieut- Col. Meyrick), is situate about three miles from Ross, and contains a fine collection of armour, collected by the late Sir Samuel Rush Meyrick, who erected the mansion. The Keep is the most ancient portion of the fine old ruin of Goodrich Castle. It was composed of three stories, each consisting of a single small room, the lowest being the prison, without even a loop-hole to admit air or light. The original windows are considered to be the most truly Saxon that can be. In the middle story, a stone frame for glass seems to have been inserted, and the style points to the time of Henry VI., and probably made by the celebrated Earl Talbot, who tenanted one of these chambers. The dungeon is sup- posed to have been erected in the time of Edward III, when Richard Talbot obtained the royal licence for converting his dungeon into a state prison. All that is known of the origin of the castle is, that a fort, held by a doomsday-book proprietor, of the name of Goldrick, or Goodrick (hence the name "Goodrich"), covered the ford of the river at this place before the Conquest. In 1 1 65, the castle became the property of the Earl of Pembroke, the then lord of the district from Ross to Chepstow. In 1347, it was the seat of the Talbot family, who founded a Priory of Black Canons at Flanesford, which is now a barn, about a quarter of a mile from the castle. During the Civil Wars, the fortress played a con- spicuous part, being taken and retaken by the opposing parties ; first for the Parliament, but it was subsequently taken by Sir Richard Lingen, who, in 1646, defended it for five months against Colonel Birch. It was, excepting the Castle of Pendennis, the last castle TINTERN ABBEY. ' Hiiil, fair TiBtern ! whether or not it be In winter's dreary hour, when gloomily The harsh wind blows, all biting, cold, and loud, And earth lies ice-bound, wrapt in snowy shroud : On vernal morn, when o'er thy sacred ground. The young grass springs, and Nature smiles around ; In summer, when the sun shines warm and bright, The skylark trilling in the azure height; Or in brown autumn, decked with changing leaves, When garners full, fruit blushing, golden sheaves Rejoice the heart of man, — I visit thee ; 'J intern, thou still hast deathless charms tor me." Herekordia. — Canto 111. NOTES TO CANTO III. 131 which held out for the king, Charles I. In the following year, it was ordered by the Parliament " to be totally disgarrisoned and slighted"; and so it became a ruin, just at a point of the river Wye where such an object is most picturesque and interesting. " Hail fair TiJitern, whether or not it be^ In winter's dreary hour, when gloomily." Tintern Abbey, although one of the oldest of the Cistercian com- munities of this country, was not famous either for its wealth or the number of its members ; and at the dissolution contained only thirteen monks, supported by a rental of from £200 to £300, at the highest calculation. Dugdale returns the revenue at £132 is. 4d., and Speed at £256 iis. 6d. Its splendid situation on the banks of the Wye, coupled with the elega,nce of its architectural design may, however, challenge comparison with the finest ecclesiastical monu- ments in the United Kingdom. The abbey was founded in the year 1 131, by Walter de Clare, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary ; but its endowments were greatly increased by Gilbert de Strongbow, Lord of Striguil and Chepstow, and afterwards Earl of Pembroke. The establishment consisted of Cistercians, or White Monks, introduced to England only three years before, when they settled at Waverley in Surrey. The founder of the church was Roger Bigod, Earl of Norfolk ; and the conse- cration of the choir (the first portion finished) took place in 1268 ; and, in the body of the church, which is the most interesting part of the ruins, the architecture is of a style long subsequent. It was built in the regular cathedral-form, with a nave, north and south aisles, transept and choir, and a tower, w^hich stands in the centre. In the choir of the abbey was buried Maud, Countess of Pembroke and Marshal of England, her body being borne into the church by her four sons. " Then visit Chepstow, old and quiet to'iun" Chepstow Castle is supposed to have been originally built by JuUus Ccesar. In the reign of Henry I. it was possessed by the Clare family, of whom Robert de Clare (surnamed, like his father, Strong- bow), is famous for his Irish adventures. It afterwards came, by the marriage of a daughter of Robert Strongbow (who had no male issue), to William, Marshal of England, Lord Protector of the King- dom ; and, by the marriage of his daughter, it fell to Hugh Bigod, Earl of Norfolk. This daughter was Maud, who was in her widow- 132 HEREFORDIA. hood created Marshal, in virtue of her descent, the king, Henry III., solemnly giving the truncheon into her hand. She was buried at Tin- tern, in 1248, her body being carried into the choir by her four sons. The casde was subsequently sold to the Earl of Pembroke, whose heiress, Elizabeth, carried it to Sir Charles Somerset, afterwards Earl of Worcester. During the Civil Wars, it was a place of great im- portance. It was, in 1645, given with other lands to Oliver Crom- well ; but was at the Restoration again possessed by the Somerset family, who now enjoy it. Here, Henry Marten, one of the regicides of Charles I., was confined for twenty years, where he died at the age of seventy-eight, and was buried in the chancel of the parish church of Chepstow. CANTO IV. " Go^ trace the glebe from Salop's bounding liner The river Teame, flowing beneath the walls of Ludlow Castle, divides the counties of Hereford and Salop, Ludford House, for- merly the seat of the Charlton family, being within a few hundred yards of the bridge. Berrmgton is the seat of Lord Rodney, and Hampton Court (once the property of the Coningsby family, and afterwards of the Earl of Essex), now belonging to J. H. Arkwright, Esq., are situate within three miles of the town of Leominster. Stoke Edith Park, lying midway between Hereford and Ledbury, is the seat of the Right Hon. Lady Emily Foley, relict of the late Edward Thomas Foley, Esq., one of the former representatives of Herefordshire in parliament. Eastnor Castle, the noble residence of Earl Somers, was erected about thirty years since, and is romantically situate within four miles of Ledbury, and about three miles from Malvern Hills and the Herefordshire Beacon. " The Earls of Hereford^ once poiverful thanes'' When the Mercian kingdom was subdued by Egbert, the title of Earl of Mercia was given to a viceroy, whose power at the first being that of a tributary sovereign, gradually declined. On the removal of Leofric from Hereford to Coventry, a.d. 1040, Sweyn, the eldest son of Godwin, was made Earl of Hereford ; but being NOTES TO CANTO IV. 133 banished for treason eleven years afterwards, was succeeded by Ranulph, who was defeated by Algar and the Welsh, ad. 1055. Although a Norman, he was displaced by the Conqueror, and his earldom granted to William Fitz-Ozborne, a relative and adviser of the king, together with extensive landed possessions, in defence of which he at least strengthened Chepstow Castle. His son Bigod, surnamed De Breteuil, having joined the Earl of Norfolk in a con- spiracy against William Rufus, was deprived of his property, and condemned to perpetual imprisonment. The title and possessions were next granted to Milo Fitz-Walter, Earl of Brecknock, who in the time of Henry IV., erected the castle of St. Briavels, on the east bank of the Wye, a few miles below Monmouth, the abbey of Llanthony, and the priory of the same name, at Gloucester. This warrior and architect supporting the Empress Maud, the earldom was given by Stephen to Robert de Blossu, Earl of Leicester, a grandson of Bigod de Breteuil, upon which Milo retired to Llanthony, where he died. On the accession of Henry II., the title and possession passed to Roger, eldest son of Milo ; thence upon his death, occasioned by an arrow whilst hunting, to his brothers, Henry and Mahel, and after- wards to Humphrey de Bohun, who had married their eldest sister, Margery, and had no fewer than seven successors of the same name ; of these, the most eminent was Constable of England in the time of Edward I., who wdth Roger Bigod, Earl of Norfolk, extorted from that monarch the Charter of 1298, which for ever exempted the English from payment of any tax levied without the consent of their parliamentary representatives. On the death, in 1373, of the seventh Earl Humphrey, whose monument is in the Lady Chapel of the cathedral, the male line ceased, and the property of the De Bohuns was divided between his two daughters, Eleanor, wife of Thomas de Woodstock, Duke of Gloucester, and sixth son of Edward HI., and Mary, who married Henry, Earl of Derby, son of John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster. Henry was created Duke of Hereford in 1377, and upon his suc- cession to the throne,- in 1399, the earldom of Hereford was con- ferred on Edmund Stafford, Earl of Buckingham, son-in-law of Thomas de Woodstock, who fell in the batde of Shrewsbury, 1403, whilst fighting for the king. His son Humphrey (the eighth of that name), the friend and supporter of Henry VI., was created Duke of Buckingham, and fell on the Lancastrian side, at Northampton, in 1460, leaving his grandson, Henry, as heir. One half of his pro- 134 HEREFORDIA. perty was seized by the sovereigns of the House of York, as co-heirs, but their heir claimed restitution successfully from Richard III., who was placed on the throne through his exertions. Becoming disgusted with the new monarch, he took up arms in favour of the Earl of Richmond, and was arrested and executed at Salisbury, in 1483. Since that period, the titles and possessions of the De Bohuns have been merged in the English crown. " The viscoimts of Hereford^ the oldest Jznownr The viscounty of Hereford has been held for sixteen generations by the Devereux family, and was conferred in 1550 ; it is the premier peer of that rank in England. Robert de Evreux, or Ervrus, was one of the Norman leaders in the battle of Hastings. His descend- ant, Sir Walter Devereux, had estates at Bodenham and Whitchurch, being Sheriff of Herefordshire in 1371 and 1376. A subsequent baronet of the same name, who, on his mother's side, came from the De Bohuns, got the title of Viscount Hereford from Henry VIIL, for his services in the French wars of that time. The barony of Ferrers, and the earldom of Essex and Ewe, descended to this house on the maternal side ; but ceased in 1646, on the death, without issue, of Robert, the third earl, a general in the Parliamentary army. Robert, father of the last-named, was the distinguished and unfortunate favourite of Queen Elizabeth, " Lord Cantilupe (the bishofs brother), he, Time, second Edwards, built the Monastery.''^ The remains of the ancient Monastery and Pulpit Cross of the Black Friars, situate at Widemarsh-gate, were restored at the ex- pense of the late John Arkwright, Esq., of Hampton Court, near Leominster. That estate is charged with the support of Coningsby's Hospital, immediately adjoining the ruins, which was instituted in 1 6 14, by Sir Thomas Coningsby, Knight, being the only private military hospital in the kingdom. The vicarage of Bodenham, in which parish Hampton Court is situate, was directed, in a codicil to the founder's will, to be given to the successive chaplains of this hospital. " The White Cross (Bishop Charlton's work) records'' During the prevalence of the Black Death, or Plague, in the city, in 1347, the markets for the sale of provisions necessary for the NOTES TO CANTO IV. 135 inhabitants within the walls, were held on the spot now occupied by the White Cross, about one mile and a quarte*- west of the city. This relic was erected some years afterwards by Bishop Lewis Charlton, whose monument in the cathedral bears the same heraldic device, a lion rampant. The prelacy of this bishop was from 136 1 to 1369; and he is supposed to have been descended from the Charlton family, who were formerly Earls of Powis. " In p7'ese?ice of their lord^ the first King James. When flourish' d many fine old English games^ Ten perso7is did perform most j oil il}\ A Morrice Dance before His Majesty T Ralph Wigley, one of the persons who, in the year 16 13, joined in the morrice dance performed before King James L, is said to have been 132 years old. " And Baskerville much to his Highness sport. Stout S071S, a score-a?id-07ie, he took to cotcrtr The patriarchal person alluded to, was Sir Roger de Baskerville, the last most eminent member of that once very powerful family, whose then representative accompanied the Conqueror into England. To his ancestor was granted Eardisley Castle, with other large pos- sessions, in the western portion of the coun::y. Several direct descendants of the old knight, and the present personal representa- tives of the race, are still resident at Weobley. " Cofnpact and nestling on the church-crowii d hill, Fair Ludlow stands with antique gables stilir The town of Ludlow, which name is of Saxon origin, and formerly spelled " Leadlowe," or, " Ludlowe," was called by the Britons " Dinan," or the " Palace of Princes," and appears to have been dis- tinguished for its importance prior to the Norman Conquest. At that time, Robert de Montgomery, kinsman of William the Con- queror, fortified the town with walls, and erected the greater part of its stately castle, which he made his baronial residence until his death, in 1094. On the attainder of his son, Robert de ^lont- gomery, the castle passed to Henry I., who made it a royal residence, greatly enlarging and embellishing it ; and having strengthened the fortifications, placed in it a powerful garrison, under the command of Gervase Pagnell. He, in the following reign, having embraced 136 HEREFORDIA. the cause of Matilda, held it for a considerable time against the forces of Stephen, by whom it was besieged in person, assisted by Henry, son of the King of Scotland. This prince, drawn up from his horse by an iron hook, was rescued from incarceration by the courage and address of the English monarch. Ludlow, from its proximity to Wales, was always a station of im- portance, and a strong garrison was constantly kept up in the castle, for the defence of the frontier from the incursions of the Welsh. In the reign of Henry IIL, an order was issued from the castle for all the Lords-Marchers to repair to this place, attended by their fol- lowers, to assist Roger Mortimer, at that time governor, in restrain- ing the hostilities of the Welsh. And in the forty-seventh year of the same reign, Simon de Montfort, Earl of Leicester, who had joined the confederated barons, assisted by Llewellyn, Prince of Wales, attacked the castle with their united forces, and having set it on fire, nearly demolished it. In the reign of Edward II., Roger Mortimer, a descendant of the famous governor, having joined the discontented barons, was sent prisoner to the Tower of London, from which he effected his escape ; and in commemoration of his success, erected, in the outer ward of Ludlow Castle, a chapel, which he dedicated to St. Peter, and endowed it for a priest to celebrate mass ; but being arraigned for high treason, in the reign of Edward IIL, he was publicly executed at Tyburn. In the reign of Henry VL, Richard, Duke of York, who then had possession of the castle, detained John Sutton, Lord Dudley, Re- ginald, Abbot of Glastonbury, and others, in confinement here ; and issued from this place his declaration of allegiance to the king, which he also repealed some years after on the defeat of Lord Audley, at Blore Heath; but on his subsequent insurrection and attainder, the king laid siege to the castle, and, having taken it, stripped it of all its ornaments. The town was j^lundered of every- thing valuable by his soldiers. The Duchess of York, with her two younger sons, was taken prisoner and confined for some time in one of the outer towers of the castle. After the death of the Duke of York, at the battle of Wakefield, the castle descended to his son, Edward, Earl of March, afterwards Edward IV. The young king, Edward V., and his brother, the Duke of York, lived in the castle, under the superintendence and protection of Earl Rivers, till their removal by order of the Duke of Gloucester (afterwards Richard HI.), to the Tower of London, where they were barbarously murdered. Prince Arthur, son of Henry VII., resided NOTES TO CANTO V. 137 here after his nuptials with Catherine of Arragon, in 1501, and kept a splendid court until his decease in the following year. In the reign of Henry VIIL, a kind of local government, called the " Council in the Marches of Wales," was established at Ludlow, consisting of a lord president, as many councillors as the prince chose to appoint, a secretary, an attorney, and four justices of the Principality, the lord president residing in the castle. During the Parliamentary Wars, the castle held out for the king, Charles I., under the command of the Earl of Bridgewater, but finally surrendered to the Parhament. Frequent skirmishes took place in the town, between the contending forces, in one of which Sir Gilbert Gerrard, brother to the Earl of Macclesfield, was killed. Opposite the entrance gateway is the Hall, in which was per- formed by the children of the Earl of Bridgewater, the celebrated " Masque of Comus," composed by Milton, and founded on an incident which occurred to the family of that nobleman soon after his appointment to the presidency. In Mortimer's Tower, the poet, Butler, after the Restoration, wrote several cantos of " Hudibras." The remains of the castle, with its massive walls and picturesque towers, still exhibit traces of its original grandeur, forming a most interesting and venerable ruin, situate on the summit of an eminence of grey-stone rock, overhanging the river Teame, which separates the town of Ludlow from the adjacent county of Hereford. CANTO V. '^ And, thus, her Towns are small, andfeiv, hut fair!' The town of Kington is of considerable antiquity, prettily situated on the banks of the river Arrow ; and, here, the manufacture of chintz and gloves was once extensively carried on ; the former has, however, ceased altogether, and the latter is much diminished. King Charles II. is said to have visited the town prior to the Battle of Worcester, and to have slept at the Talbot Inn, still standing in Bridge-street. Near to it is a barn, where the tragic actress, Mrs. Siddons, who was born at Brecon, made one of her first pubhc ap- pearances on the stage. The church dedicated to St. Michael, is an ancient structure, standing in a large burial-ground, beautifully situate, and commanding a fine view of the surrounding country. A Free Grammar School was founded here, pursuant to the will of J38 HEREFORDIA. Lady Hawkins, who, in 1619, bequeathed money for the purchase of an esta'e, which, thirty years since, produced £224 los. per annum. The hving is a vicarage, uniting, also, the curacies of Brilley, Michaelchurch, and Huntington. On Bradnor Hill, about a mile north of the town, there are traces of an ancient camp ; and there is a rocky eminence in the vicinity, called Castle Hill, though it does not appear that any castle stood there, or that it was the site of an encampment. A chapel is said to have been destroyed by an earthquake ni this place, about 500 years since. Leominster (according to Leland) derives its name from a minster or monastery, founded here by Merewald, King of West Mercia, about 660, and that Saxon prince is said to have had a castle or palace about half-a-mile eastward of the town ; a fortress, also, was standing on the same spot in 1055, when it was seized by the Welsh chieftains, and fortified. At the lime of the Norman survey, the manor, with its appurtenances, was assigned by Edward the Con- fessor to his Queen Editha ; in the reign of William Rufus, the fortifications were strengthened, to secure it against the incursions of the Welsh. In the reign of John, the town, priory, and church were plundered and burned by William de Braos, Lord of Breck- nock ; in the time of Henry IV., it was in possession of Owen Glendwr, after he had defeated the Earl of March, In the next century, the inhabitants of the town took a decisive part in the establishment of Mary on the throne, for which service she granted the first charter of incorporation, about 1554. The monastery founded by Merewald, having been destroyed by the Danes, a college of prebendaries, and, subsequently, an abbey of nuns, were established here ; but these institutions were destroyed previously to the time of Edward I., who endowed the abbey of Reading with the monastery of Leominster, to which it afterwards became a cell ; its revenue, at the dissolution, being £660 i6s. 8d. The charter of incorporation, received from Queen Mary, was confirmed and extended by subsequent sovereigns. The last was granted by Charles II., in 1665. The borough has sent two members to Par- liament since the 23rd year of Edward I. The parish church dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, is a spacious and irregular structure, exhibiting specimens of every style of Norman and P^nglish architecture : the tower, Avhich is of considerable elevation, stands at the north-west angle. This place confers the title of Baron upon the Earl of Pomfret, who styles himself Baron Lempster, that having been the ancient name of the town. NOTES TO CANTO V. 139 Weobley was, until its disfranchisement by the ParHamentary Reform Act of 1832, an unincorporated borough, and returned two members to Parliament. The elective franchise was granted by Edward L, and was renewed, or confirmed by Charles I. The church dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul is a fine structure, and contains several monuments of the families of Birch and Peploe. On the south side of the town are the remains of an ancient castle, which was taken by Stephen, in the war between him and the Empress Matilda, for whom it had been kept by William Talbot. Ledbury derives its name from the river Leden, which intersects the parish from north to south. It is situate on a declivity at the eastern angle of the county, and at the southern extremity of the Malvern Hills. In the more ancient parts of the town, the houses are composed of timber and brick, with projecting stories ; and in the centre stands a curious market-house in Elizabethan style. Ledbury sent two members to Parliament in the reign of Edward I., but surrendered the elective franchise, subsequently, on the plea of poverty. The parish church, dedicated to St. Michael, exhibits some fine specimens of Norman architecture, and on the south side of the chancel is a chapel, dedicated to St. Catherine, of decorated character. The north Porch is in the early s yle of English architec- ture, as is also the tower, which is surmounted by a spire of elegant proportions, and beautifully standing out against the hill, pictu- resquely clothed with trees. The Hospital of St. Catherine was founded here, in the thirteenth century, by Hugh Foliot, Bishop of Hereford, and endowed for six widowers and four widows. It was re-founded by Queen Elizabeth, in 1580, for a master, seven poor widowers and three widows. The present building, highly orna- mented, was erected in 1822, at a cost of nearly £6,000. In and near the parish were several Roman remains, and there is still a part of the famous Beacon Camp, considered to have been one of the fortresses built by Caractacus, when this part of Britain was invaded by the Romans, under Ostorius Scapula. At Ledbury, Jacob Tonson, an eminent bookseller, and the subject of a satirical triplet by Dryden, whose epitaph, pubhshed in the " Gentleman's Magazine," for February, 1736, was closely copied by Dr. Benjamin Franklin, for his own tombstone. The town of Bromyard is situate partl}^ in a hollow and partly against a hill. The church, dedicated to St. Peter, is a spacious structure, in the Norman style, occupying a high and prominent position. The downs adjacent to the town, on ib.e A\'orcestershirc T40 HEREFORDIA. side, are extensive and open, and the district lying towards Hereford, from which it is distant fourteen miles, is rich in orchards and fine hop-gardens. The Free Grammar School was endowed by Queen Elizabeth with £i6 4s. iijd. per annum, subsequently augmented by £20 per annum, by John Perrins, Esq. There are almshouses for seven aged women, endowed by the Rev. Phineas Jackson, formerly vicar of the parish, to which also the Rev. Dr. Cope, a former incumbent, was a benefactor. The town has been always considered dull, and, from its isolated position, is said, by a local proverb, " to have been the last built, and that it fell from the sky • ready made." " 0/ Kilpeck Church and Castle take a viewT Kilpeck is a parish, and perpetual curacy, in the upper division of the hundred of Wormelow, and the living is in the gift of the Bishop of Gloucester. The church, dedicated to St. David has some fine portions of the Norman style of architecture. It was given by Hugh Fitzwilliam (whose family assumed the name of Kilpeck) son of the Conqueror, to the abbey of St. Peter, Glou- cester, in 1 134, and became a cell of black monks subordinate to it, till its suppression. The ancient castle of Kilpeck fell early to ruin, and, since the time of Edward L, a part only of the walls was remaining. " Then Madley, with her decorated to7Juer, Will hold the critic through a pleasant hoiir^^ Madley, a parish in the hundred of Webtree, is a vicarage in con- nection with the perpetual curacy of Tiberton, in the peculiar juris- diction of the Dean of Hereford. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is a large and handsome edifice, principally in the decorated style, with an embattled tower at the west end. The late very Rev. John Merewether, D.D., Dean of Hereford, was vicar of the parish, and, by his munificence and taste, contributed greatly towards the restoration and beautifying of the church. " Father of Heraldry and blazoned lore'' John Guillim, author of the valuable treatise, known as "Heraldry Displayed," was born at Hereford, in 1565, was educated at the Cathedral Grammar School, and died in 1621. " Roger of Hereford, a century Ere Bacon livedo versed in astronomy^ Roger of Hereford, ancestor of Richard Hereford, Esq., the NOTES TO CANTO V. 141 proprietor of Sufton Court, having flourished, as astronomer, as- trologer, alchemist and mathematician, so early as the time of Henry II., anticipated the career of Roger Bacon by nearly a cen- tury. He is said to have been educated at Cambridge, as his works were long preserved in the library of that university ; of these the most noted are, a "Treatise on Judicial Astrology," and "A Book of Metals." '■'■ Few Sees can boast of Bishops such a lijie^ The Bishops Putta, Turtell, and Terteras, were the three first Saxon Bishops of Hereford, to whom, between the years 730 and 740, a magnificent cross was erected on the east side of the cathe- dral, near the site of the present Grammar School. i\mongst the eminent persons who have filled the See of Hereford, since the Conquest, may be mentioned : — John Le Breton, LL.D., the predecessor of Cantilupe (1269 — 75) who was eminently " learned in the law." His treatise, " De Juri- bus Anglicanis," written by special command of Henry HI., was long in use as a standard authority. It washighly eulogised by Sir Edward Coke, who speaks of the author as "an ornament to his profession and a solace to himself." Thomas Cantilupe, or Cantilow, was son of William, Lord Can- tilupe, or Kentilupe, so-called from his residing in Kent (by Milli- cent, Countess of Evreux), who represented two of the principal Norman families which entered England with the Conqueror. This prelate was born in 1225, became Chancellor of the University of Oxford, and was, by Henry III., made Lord Chancellor of England, and succeeded to the See in 1275. He died in 1282, at Civita Vecchia, on his return from Rome, where he had been to obtain redress for encroachments made on the rights of his church. His flesh was buried in the Church of St. Severus, near Florence ; his heart was inurned at the monastery of Ashbridge, in Bucks, and his bones were deposited with pomp in his own cathedral, where his tomb, or shrine, now exists, in the north transept. He was canonized about the year 13 19, and, after his death, the arms of the See (the same as those borne by the East Anglian kings) were abandoned for those of the saint ; and these have been retained to, and are used at, the present time. Edward Fox (1535— 1538), the first Protestant Bishop of Here- ford, and one of the pillars of the Reformation, was almoner to Kmg Henry VIII. 142 HEREFORDIA. John Skipp, D.D. (1539 — 53), was one of the compilers of the Book of Common Prayer, and his successor, John Harley, D.D. (1553 — 54), was imprisoned and deprived of his See by Queen Mary, for the alleged crimes of heresy and wedlock. Miles Smith, D.D., born at Hereford, in 1550, who died in 1624, was the son of a flctcher, or maker of arrows, was bred up at the Cathedral School, and Brazenose College, Oxford. He became a Canon Residentiary of the cathedral, and afterwards Bishop of Gloucester. He was eminent as an Oriental scholar, and was em- ployed by James I. in the translation of the Holy Bible. He wrote the Preface to the Authorized Version, and, to this prelate and Dr. Bilson, Bishop of Winchester, was committed the entire revisal of the sacred volume. George Isaac Huntingford, D.D., was appointed to the See in 1 815, and died in the year 1834. He held, also, the Wardenship of the College of Winchester, near to which city he was first mducted to the offices of the sacred minis .'ry, in a small parish church, where he was buried by his own special desire. Dr. Huntingford was esteemed one of the most learned men of his time, a profound Greek scholar (equal, perhaps, to Porson), and was greatly beloved for his eminent Christian virtues. " Alusgrave beloved, alas ! too early gone!' Dr. Thomas Masgrave was, on the death of Bishop Grey, in 1837, raised to the See of Hereford ; and in 1847, was translated to the archiepiscopal chair of York. In both these high positions he won, by his amiable, upright, and truly Chris dan character, the affection of every class of the community. He died in i860. " Nor did the lofty Wolsey think too mean Of Hereford, and so was once its Dean.^ Thomas Wolsey was born at Ipswich, in March, 1471, and from the time he became a Bachelor of Arts in the University of Oxford, at fourteen years of age, to the date of his downfall and his retire- ment to the abbey of Leicester, in 1530, no British subject ever advanced so rapidly in the favour of his sovereign. His income exceeded in amount the revenues of the Crown, and his household comprised 800 persons ; his retinue included noblemen and gentle- men of the highest rank and character. Wolsey succeeded Reginald West, as Dean of the Cathedral of Hereford, in 1512, during the episcopate of Bishop Booth, but appears to have held it but a short NOTES TO CANTO V. 143 time, Edmund Frowcester having received the dignity in the same year. From the modest position of a Fellow of Magdalen College, and tutor of three sons of the Marquis of Dorset, in 1500, he ulti- mately became rector of Lymington, a chaplain to the king, Henry VIIL, rector of Redgrave, counsellor and almoner to His Majesty, rector of Torrington, canon of Windsor, registrar of the Order of the Garter, prebend of Bugthorpe, Dean of York, Bishop of Tournay, Bishop of Lincoln, Archbishop of York, Cardinal of St. Cecily, then Lord Chancellor of England, and Pope's Legate, a latere, in 15 16, Besides the profits of these appointments, the king bestowed on him the rich Abbey of St. Albans, in cominendiun^ and the Bishopric of Durham, and, afterwards, that of Winchester; and will these, he held, in pawn, the Bishoprics of Bath and Worcester, enjoyed by foreign incumbents. '• Henry the Fifth though on its confines bornT On the other side of the Wye, the district of jNIonmouthshire begins (for we have hitherto been in Herefordshire), and Courtfield claims our attention for a moment, as the place where Henry V. is said to have been nursed, under the care of the Countess of Salisbury. The remains of a bed and an old cradle were formerly shown as relics of the Monmouth hero. Half a mile further down the river is Welsh Bicknor Church, which has puzzled the antiquarians by its sepulchral effigy, representing a recumbent female figure, in stone, not ungracefully dressed in a loose robe, but without inscription or coat of arms. Tradition Avill have it, that it is of the Countess of Salisbury, and it is perhaps correct in the person, but wrong in the name; for, the lady who nursed Henry at Courtfield, supposing him to have been there at all, was, in all probability. Lady Montacute, who married the second son of the first Earl of Salisbury, but was no countess herself Her son, however, Sir John De IMontacute, who possessed the manor of Welsh Bicknor, succeeded to the earldom of Salisbur}^, and became Earl Marshal of England. It was he who was chief of the Lollards, and was murdered in the year 1480, by the populace of Cirencester. Welsh Bicknor is stated to be in Monmouthshire, but, locally, it is in the lower division of the hundred of Wormelow, in the county of Hereford. '' /;/ later times the Canon Phillips claims Our praise, whose loyalty past history namesT The Rev. Canon Phillips, who had then an estate at Withington, 144 HEREFORDIA. afforded an asylum in his house to Charles II., in 1657, after the battle of Worcester. " Nor imist we slight the good old Clerk's grandsonr John Phillips, the son of Dr. Stephen Phillips (Archdeacon of Salop), and grandson of the Rev. Canon Phillips, was born at Bamp- ton, in Oxfordshire, where his father was also rector. He attained great celebrity by his poems, " Cider," " Blenheim," and the " Splen- did Shilling" ; and died 15th February, 1708. There are monuments to his memory in Hereford Cathedral and Westminister Abbey. " The Poet Davies, too, and Gerthenge, thenr John Davies, poet, schoolmaster, and penman, was born in Here- ford, and became writing master to the Prince Henry, son of James L, and died at Carhsle, in 1618. He and his pupil, Richard Gerthenge, were noticed by Fuller in his " British Worthies," and reputed to be the best penmen in England. " The iiohle Cor new all needs no eulogy V James Cornewall, Captain in the Royal Navy, was born at Moccas, in 1699 ; was brother of Velters Cornwall, who represented the county of Hereford in seven successive parliaments. Whilst in com- mand of his ship, the " Marlborough," of 90 guns, in an action with the combined French and Spanish squadron off Toulon, in 1744, he lost both his legs, and refused to leave the deck, until he died by the fall of the main and mizen masts. " Save, for one fault, and who is free from sin, The city need not blush for fair Nell Gwyn!'' Ellen, or Eleanor Gwyn, was of Welsh extraction (and although the place of her birth has been supposed by some persons to be in the Coal-yard, Drury-lane, by others in the city of London, and in Oxford), was born, February 2nd, 1650, in Pipe-lane (now called Gwyn-street), in a cottage contiguous to the palace, which her grand- son. Lord James Beauclerk, the then bishop, pulled down, and included its site in the episcopal grounds. " Uvedale Price, the gentle brothers Kiiight, A trio firm, rare, excellent andbrightr Sir Uvedale Price, Bart, of Foxley (the father of the late Sir Robert Price, for many years member for the county and city of NOTES TO CANTO V. 145 Hereford, and with whom the baronetcy ceased), was a very learned and accompHshed scholar, and the author of an " Essay on the Picturesque." Richard Payne Knight, of Downton Castle, was a rare instance of high intellect combined with great philanthropic feehng and practice. He was a very humane man, and warmly attached to literary pursuits ; and, in furtherance of these objects, lived in great retirement, surrendering to his younger brother, Thomas Andrew Knight, his splendid paternal estate. He was the author of an "Analytical Essay on the Greek Alphabet"; an "Analytical Enquiry into the Principles of Taste," a " Monody on the Death of the Right Hon. Charles James Fox," and other works. He left a valuable collection of Papers and Manuscripts to the nation, which are now deposited in the British Museum. Thomas Andrew Knight, whose name has been previously men- tioned, was President of the Horticultural Society, and contributed very valuable works on agricultural and other subjects ; amongst which are, a " Pamphlet on Mr. Forsyth's Method of filling up with Plaister the Holes in Trees" (1802); also pubhcations on the "Ne- cessity of a Commutation of Tithes" (1804 and 1834); a "Report of the Committee of the Horticultural Society" (1841) ; a "Selection of Physiological and Horticultural Papers" (1841) ; the " Culture of the Pear and Apple" (1797) ; but his most celebrated work is the " Pomona Herefordiensis," illustrated with coloured engravings (1811). " To those delighting in black-letter lore^ Who Fosbf^ooke's, Mey rick's, DimciimUs wo7'ks explored The Rev. Thos. Dudley Fosbrooke, a learned scholar and anti- quary, was Rector of Walford, and the author of an '' Encyclopaedia of Antiquities," and " Elements of Archaeology, Classical and Me- diaeval" (1825) j the " Tourist's Grammar" (1826); " Foreign Topo- graphy, being a Sequel to the Encyclopaedia" {1828); "Choir Service Vindicated ; a Sermon" (1829); and "British Monachism." Sir Samuel Rush Meyrick, a learned antiquary and armourist, the owner and founder of Goodrich Court, arranged the armoury in the Tower and at Windsor Castle, and possessed a valuable collection of armoury at his own mansion. He was the author of several Papers on the " Academies of England, Great Britain and Ireland," and " Ancient Welsh Manuscripts"; and editor of "Dunn's Heraldic Visitation of Wales" (1846); and the "Doucean Manuscripts" 146 HEREFORDIA. (1836) ; and, it is believed, also of a later and valuable work on " Armour." The Rev. John Duncumb, Rector of Abbey Dore, and Vicar of Mansel, a learned and accomplished antiquary, was the author of "Collections towards a History of the City and County of Hereford" (1804). " Thefrie?idofrich and poor, we ne'er may scan Geers CottereWs fellow T Sir John Geers Cotterell, Bart, (grandfather of the present Sir Henry Geers Cotterell, Bart), many years M.R for Herefordshire, died in 1845, aged eighty-seven. He was greatly beloved by persons of every rank, and was regarded by all as the head of the County. " And Havard, come of low but honest birth'' William Havard, Esq., born in Hereford, of humble parents, in 1735, rose to be partner in one of the chief London banks, and subsequently connected with the City and County Bank in his native city. He devoted his leisure hours to literature, and was author of the popular song " My Poll and my Partner Joe," published in Dibdin's collection. He died in 181 1, at his house in South Lambeth. " Uniting^ too, rich find of anecdote, With local customs, and events of note.'' The Rev. John Merewether, D.D., F.R.S., Dean of the Cathedral ; the Rev. J. Webb, F.S.A., Rector of Tretire ; and the Rev. J. Bird, Vicar of Mordiford, all eminent as scholars, enjoyed a high and deserved reputation for their great knowledge of archaeology, and through whose exertions many curious remains were discovered throughout the county. James Wathen, Esq., a gentleman much given to literary and artistic pursuits, accompanied the late Cap. Pendergras to China ; he subsequently resided and died in Hereford. " Whilst Avon's Swan his magic sceptre S7C'ays." David Garrick (the son of a French refugee, who, in 1766, held a lieutenant's commission in a regiment of Dragoons, then quartered in Hereford), was born in Widemarsh-street ; from whence he was, with his mother, removed to Lichfield, soon after his birth. NOTES TO CANTO V. 147 " Though late yet loved^ whilst peals the sacred song.'^ Dr. John Clarke Whitfeld, Professor of Music at the University of Cambridge, for several years organist of Hereford cathedral, died about the year 1845. He was the author of the oratorio of "Pa- lestine," and numerous Anthems and Services, which rank amongst the best works of our most eminent musical composers. Besides his great musical proficiency as an organist and teacher, he was an admirable performer on the violoncello, and possessed of an ex- traordinary fund of wit and anecdote. " Now whilst 2ve care for learning, ajidfor yotithr The Cathedral Grammar School was founded by Bishop Gilbert, in 1386, for the purpose of affording gratuitous instruction to the sons of poor citizens. But the salary of the master being only £30 a year, and not being deemed adequate, fresh regulations were made in 1665, when he was also allowed to receive private pupils. The Duchess of Somerset was a great benefactress to the school, and by her munificence it enjoys, in turn with Manchester and Marlborough schools, the presentation to thirty scholarships, fifteen at Brazenose College, Oxford, and fifteen at St. John's College, Cambridge. There are also exhibitions for four boys born in the city of Hereford, founded by Dean Langford, who died in 1607. The school was raised to considerable eminence under the head-mastership of the late Rev. Charles Taylor, D.D., who resigned the charge soon after he became Chancellor of the Diocese. This gentleman died in the year 1834, in consequence of a fall from his carriage. He was greatly beloved and regretted by his family, friends, and pupils ; amongst the latter, the author deems himself fortunate to have been included. *' Through a rich sweep of woods a?id meadows greefi, The lazy Lugg doth wind its quiet way^ The river Lugg, a deep and slowly-flowing stream, rises in the county not far from Leominster, and passes through a valley rich in meadows, corn-fields and hop-gardens, at a distance of about two miles south-east of the river Wye at Hereford. In some portion of its route, the adjacent soil is of a deep clay, and its waters partake of its red, yellowish hue. The river affords excellent sport to the angler, who delights to wander on its quiet banks. 148 HEREFORDIA. " So homage Art receives. And der the youthful sculptor, Jennings, grieves^ The late Benjamin Jennings, jun., a native of Hereford, and sculptor of " The Birth of the Rose," and other beautiful works, died in the year 1856, at an early age. The late David Cox, head of the Water-Colour School lived at Aylstone-hill for several years, and there painted many of his most characteristic sketches of rural scenery. Charles Lucy, Esq., the now eminent artist, and painter of the interesting picture, " The Man of Ross portioning a Bride," is a native of the county. This charming work is in the possession of John Bleek Lye, Esq., M.D,, Castle-street, Hereford. Amongst other excellent productions from Mr. Lucy's easel, may be mentioned, the "Prometheus Chained"; "Milton visiting Galileo in the Pri- sons of the Inquisition"; " The Parting of Charles I. from his Family"; " Lord Nelson on Board the Victory on the Morning of the Battle of Trafalgar " ; " The Departure of the Puritan Fathers for America" ; " The Daughter of Cromwell on her Death-bed Remonstrating with her Father." The majority of these pictures have been engraved in the best style of art. " And when the Natioris loyal Anthem peals'^ John Bull, Doctor of Music, and composer of the incomparable air of" God save the King," was a Gentleman Commoner of the College of Vicars. His musical works remained unknown for many years after his decase. " Thus shaped thy life, so sweet thy memory, , That needed ne'er a monument shall be^ The Hereford County Lifirmary, standing on the south bank of the river Wye, at the eastern angle of the Casde Green, was opened in the 1776. It was erected by public subscription, mainly through the exertions of the Rev. Dr. Talbot, Rector of Ullingswick, who headed the list with the munificent contribution of £500. The site for the building was given by Edward, the fourth Earl of Oxford. NOTES TO CANTO VI. 149 CANTO VI. " Then join inc on the hroiv of Athehtane, Ji< >i< * >i< And climb again old Broojfiys grassy hillj' Athelstane, or Aylstone Hill, supposed to be the scene of King Athelstane's treaty with the Welsh, in the tenth century, is beautifully situate about a mile north-east of the city of Hereford, of which, and the surrounding country, it commands a most extensive and delightful prospect. Broomy Hill is situate about the same distance from the city, but in a south-westerly direction, and upon the banks of the river Wye. During the last fifteen years many additional houses, the residences of gentlemen connected A\ith Hereford, have been erected in its immediate vicinity, the new bridge of the Newport and Abergavenny railway forming a beautiful object in the landscape. " With sound of voices, maixh of human feet , Oiitnwnhering those who, 07ice, on May-mor7i sweet, Led through the danced The charming and truly rural custom of going a Maying prevailed in this district thirty years since, and young people of both sexes met and danced together on Broomy Hill, under the three large elm trees which now stand near to the basin of the waterworks. From this point of the hill are seen the Hatterel (Hatterail), or Black Mountains, in Brecon ; the Skerrid, or Holy Mountains, near Abergavenny, in Monmouthshire ; the Malvern range in Wor- cestershire ; and May Hill, in Gloucestershire. " But close at hand where Belmont-woods surrotmd, A Gothic pile surmounts the rising ground^ The priory church and monastery at Belmont, erected under the auspices of Mr. ^^'egg Prosser, and the parochial churches of St. ]\lartin and St. Nicholas, are new features in the scene. The cathedral, and the ancient spires of All Saints' and St. Peter's churches, all of which enjoy a commanding position, with the fine stretch of the river, visible from Broomy Hill, render it one of the most picturesque spots in the vicinity. St. Peter's church is memo- rable for the death of its founder, Walter de Lacy, in the year 1085, who accidentally fell from the battlements, which he had I50 HEREFORDIA. ascended on the occasion of their completion. The church was given, in 1161, by his son, Hugh de Lacy, to the abbey of St. Peter, at Gloucester. " And cold is he to female beauty^ s charm. If thy fair daughters ne'er his heart disarm^ The allusion, it is almost unnecessary to remark, refers to the captivation of Henry 11. by Fair Rosamond, daughter of Lord de Clifford ; and to that of Charles IL by Nell G^vyn. '• The strength and sinew which her yeomen yields The county of Hereford has long been proverbial for the manly character of its agricultural population, the richness of its orchards and hop-yards, and their valuable produce. Its importance has been greatly enhanced within the last thirty years, by its excellent breed of horned cattle, horses and sheep, the former of which are surpassed by none in the United Kingdom. " He rightly sees her sylvan glories shine ^ Herefordshire is generally famous for its finely-timbered woods and parks ; and especially for its beautiful oak trees. The most celebrated specimens of the latter class are at Sarnsfield, Eastnor, Moccas Park, and Eardisley. The last-mentioned is a tree of very large dimensions and great age, standing about a quarter of a mile north-east of the village of that name. •-ts^ " And darting from the osiers' side. The fairy skiff attempts the tide'' One of the many legends associated with the river, is that relating to the " Spirit of the Wye," which, it is said, has for centuries fre- quented the stream, upon that beautiful portion lying between the old bridge at Hereford and the charming domain of Belmont. This legend, it is beheved, had its origin in the circumstance of the death of a youth, who was the suitor of the daughter of a governor of the castle of Hereford. Having been implicated in a conspiracy against the garrison, but without her knowledge, he was executed by order of her parent. This sad event turned her brain ; and the spirit of this damsel is reported to ascend the river nightly in a fairy skiff, to visit the scene of her former happiness, and there to lament the death of the long-cherished object of her affections. NOTES TO CANTO VI. 151 " And what, for faults how venal though they be. The knotted scourge is't fittiiig penalty ?" According to a return made in the House of Commons, dated 14th July, 1859, the number of persons employed in the Royal Na\y, in the year 1858, was 52,000. Of this num.ber, 47,646 are still sub- ject to the degrading and cruel system of corporal punishment. In the last-named year, 997 were flogged. The number of lashes inflicted was 32,420, the average being 32 lashes; the instrument of torture being the cat-o'-nine-tails. The offences in all the ships were nearly the same, namely, drunkenness, insubordination, theft ; and the great difference of the punishment, between one dozen and four dozens of lashes for the same offence, seems to depend more on the temper of each individual captain or punisher, than on the gravity of the ofl"ence so visited. The cause of the difficulty (which we hear constantly complained of) in getting seamen, — of numerous desertions, of the character of the seamen being degraded — may be so traced to the barbarities thus perpetrated under the official sanction of the Admiralt}^, whose conduct is a standing disgrace to the crown, the government, and the parliament. It must not be omitted to state, that the warrant and commission officers are not liable to the punishment. But till a very recent period, young gentlemen were liable to it j but it was considered so degrading, that by a special order they were exempted from the punishment. Our aristocratic chiefs, yet, have pertinaciously continued it for the actual working and able-bodied sailors, who in the hour of danger bear the great brunt of the perils to which the service is exposed. How such iniquity can be perpetrated in a Christian country, it would be difficult to imagine. But we know that the interests of the great body of the people are wholly unrepresented in both branches of the senate ; in the upper house, where sit the titled and territorial aristocracy ; and in the lower one, the junior members of their families, combined with the heads of the great mercantile and manufacturing classes. These are all, more or less, bent upon their own individual aggi-andisement ; and the means by which too many of them obtain places in the legislature, cannot be characterised as honourable NOTES TO THE ILLUSTRATIONS. Wye Bi'idge and Cathedral. — This view, taken from the south bank of the river looking east, represents the bridge and the cathe- dral. Few structures of the kind, from the peculiar suddenness and extent of the floods, which are created by the mountain- streams collected at the head of the river, near Rhayader, require to be so firmly built over a comparatively small river, as the Wye Bridge at Hereford. And few bridges have so well withstood the many floods, which with overwhelming force have borne against this ancient fabric. At the close of the last, and during the present century, the floods have been so great as to entirely cover the meadows for a great distance on either side, the road through St. Martins, being wholly under water, and extending from the bridge to the causeway beyond the turnpike-gate, on the way to Ross. The present bridge, the footway of which was widened about thirty years since, was built about the year 1490, replacing a bridge of wood, which was erected in the reign of Henry I. Shrine, or Pyx, of St. Ethelbert. — Sir Thos. More, in his abundant wit, says, "The taking up of a man's bones, and setting them in a gay shrine, hath made many a saint." It was just so with Ethelbert, King of the East Angles, of whose death or martyrdom, the box, or pyx, in the engraving (more like a Florence oil-chest than anything else in common use), is considered to be a sacred memorial. The particulars of the historic incident having been detailed in the text NOTES TO ILLUSTRATIONS. 1^3 and notes, those here given will relate to the shruie itself. It is of exquisitely curious workmanship, but not more so than many other tributes of veneration. Like the relics of Bishop Trelleck, the shrine was lost to the cathedral for several centuries ; but it was discovered on the Continent some forty-five years since, by the late Canon Russell, who purchased it from its then possessors ; and by him it was generoflsly restored to the dean and chapter. The Shrine, or Pyx, as it is called, is seven inches long, three inches and three-eighths broad, and eight inches and a quarter high ; it is form.ed of oak, very thick and strong, covered with plates of copper, tastefully enamelled in different colours, and handsomely gilt. The sloping part, or roof, measures three inches in height ; the front panel five inches. The figures on the principal side tell the horrible tale of the assassination of Ethelbert. The assassins are cautiously advancing on tip-toe, and pointing to their victim, whilst one is in the act of striking off" his head ; and Ethelbert, surprised at his devotions, seems in the act of springing up to meet the hand, which from the cloud appears outstretched to receive him. It has been suggested, that this device might relate to some priest or bishop assassinated during the celebration of mass ; but as mass is not usually celebrated with the head covered, and as the cross on the table is a simple cross and not a crucifix (which last is generally used in public mass), it appears much more probable that the murder was committed during an act of private devotion ; and the dress and crown of the martyr rather denote a prince than either a priest or bishop. The design on the upper part or roof of the shrine, still has a relation to the martyrdom. We see there a sort of bier, on which is extended, what, we may suppose to be the body of the mari}T : two men are employed in raising it from the ground : it is surrounded by figures, probably intended to represent angels, two of whom are scattering incense ; and two others, standing behind the chair, seem to point to heaven. One of them bears a tablet with an inscription. The figures at each end of the shrine may, perhaps, represent St. Ethelbert after his beatification : at least, the glory over the head would lead one to this supposition, as none of the figures on the front, — the assassins, the murdered prince, or the bearers of the bier, — have anything of the sort. The colours of the enamel are three shades of blue, a gi-een, red, yellow, and white ; the figures are gilt ; those in front have their heads in relief 154 HEREFORDIA. The back of the shrine is covered with a mosaic pattern of four pointed leaves, repeated within square compartments. The back panel opens downwards as a door, and fastens with a lock. On the inside is a plank of wood, on which is painted a red cross, the usual sign of a relic. This is much stained with a dark liquid, supposed to have been the bood of the martyr. A7'7ns of the City of Herefoi^d. — Gules, within a border azure, charged with ten saltires sable, three lions passant gardant in pale of the second. Supporters, two lions rampant proper. Crest, a lion passant gardant proper. Motto, " Invictae Fidelitatis Prsemium." Arms of the Bishopric, prior to the time of Cantilupe. — Gules, a bezant between three Saxon crowns, composed alternately of points and crosses, or, surmounted by a mitre, with fillets proper. The Castle Green and Cathedral. — The sketch represents this beautiful public walk, formerly a portion of the site of the old castle of Hereford ; with Lord Nelson's pillar, the Cathedral, and the Read- ing-Room. Anns of the Bishopric, assumed by Cantilupe, and now adopted. — Gules, three leopards' heads reversed (two and one) swallowing as many fleurs-de-lis, or. Hereford Cathedral, and Lady Chapel. — This is a north-eastern view of the Cathedral, including the Lady Chapel, built by Joanna De Bohun, in the twelfth century, and Bishop Booth's Porch, erected between the years 15 16 and 1535. The dimensions of the Cathe- dral are as follow : — Total exterior length, 344 ft. j interior, 325 ft. ; length of the nave, 130 ft. ; great transept, 147 ft. ; smaller transept, 109 ft. j Lady Chapel, 93 ft. j breadth of nave and aisles, 74 ft.; nave, 38 ft. ; each aisle, 28 ft. ; Lady Chapel, 28 ft. ; Tower, interior, 31ft.; exterior 43 ft.; height of nave and choir, 70 ft.; lantern, 96 ft.; tower to battlements, 41ft.; and to apex of the pinnacles, 166 ft. The length of the College cloisters is 109 ft. There are two portions also extant of the bishop's cloisters, namely, the eastern and southern, connecting the Cathedral with the garden of the bishop's palace. Arms of the Deanery. — Azure, five chevronels, or. Cross of the Black, or Preaching, Friars. — This order, totally dis- tinct from that of St. Guthlac, was originally established in 1276, under the auspices of William, Lord Cantilupe, brother of the bishop NOTES TO ILLUSTRATIONS. 155 of that name. It was first located in Bye-street- without, but was afterwards removed to its present site, Widemarsh-gate-without, which was given to them by Sir John Daniel ; and here the buildings were commenced in the time of Edward II. More than twenty years afterwards, Edward III. enabled them to complete the un- finished portions ; and he was, with his son, the Black Prince, three archbishops, and a strong body of nobles and notables, present at the consecration. About midway between the remains of the monastery and the present hospital, stands the Black Eriars' Pulpit, or Preaching Cross, a beautiful and interesting, though decayed, remnant of the later decorated period, about 1350. It is a hexagon, open on each side, and surrounded by a flight of steps, gradually decreasing as they ascend. In the centre is a pillar of the same shape, with two trefoil arches on each side. The roof was embat- tled, and included a dome, surmounted by a stone crucifix. It is probable that this Cross was surrounded by cloisters, so as to afford a shelter to the congregation. Capitular Seal of the College of Vicars. — The original, from which the engraving is taken, is about 2 J inches long, and \\ wide, repre- senting the Virgin Mary, standing underneath a canopy, bearing in her right hand the holy child Jesus, and in her left hand an olive branch. On the upper portion is a shield, which shows, palewise, two chevrons composed of pellets. Legend — SIGILL. COLL. VICAR. ECCLES. HEREEORDIENSIS. The same design ap- pears to have been adopted as the' Seal of the dean and chapter of the cathedral ; and this is carved in bold relief over the entrance to St. Ethelbert's Hospital, situate in Castle-street, which is under the governance of the dean and chapter. The River Wye from the Prospect at Ross. — The view embraces a beautiful point of the river, immediately below the circular tower erected by the late Mr. Hooper, a gentleman greatly respected by the inhabitants of Ross, and one of the chief benefactors of the town. Bishop Jrelleclzs Crosier and Pope Clement's Bull. — These curious relics were discovered about fifty years since, in a rude wooden coffin, near the altar in the cathedral, about two feet eight inches below the marble flooring. The coffin contained also the vestige of a body, almost mouldering to dust, the back part of the skull being entire ; on its left side lay a lock of red hair. The crosier traversed the body from the right breast to the left foot. The leaden seal, or 156 HEREFORDIA. " Pope's Ball," with the letters, CLEMENS P.P. VI. {i.e. Pope Cle- ment VI), was attached to it by a silken cord or skein, in perfect l^reservation. About four inches below the top of the crosier, lay a gold ring, with an amethyst stone near it. The stone has been replaced in the ring, which it perfectly fits. Some pieces of silken stuff were found amongst the dust, but so decayed that they could not be removed. The coffin, an oblong box, was seven feet long, and about two feet wide, composed of oak boards, rough, and about an inch thick, but so uneven as to vary half an inch. A lid had been laid over it, but no nail-holes could be observed. The leaden Bull was about two and a quarter inches in diameter ; and the vestige of the crosier is about nine inches long; its breadth across the crook, six inches ; and the diameter of the staff, one inch and a half. Bishop Trelleck died in 1360, so that these relics must have lain in his coffin for 450 years. A crosier will be remembered as the pastoral staff, or emblematic crook of a bishop. The origin of the term " Bull" has been disputed. Some derive it from " bulla," a seal ; and that from " bulla," a drop or bubble ; while others obtain it from a Greek word, signifying a council ; or from the Celtic " burl," or " bul," a bubble. Fosbrooke tells us, that the Papal Bull is a term taken from the seals, but not confined to deeds of popes. It is extended to those of emperors, princes, bishops, etc., who, till the thirteenth century, used seals of metal, which the popes continued with lead in common acts ; gold in more important ones. These seals varied in form till Urban 11. (about 1088), since which they have been much alike; viz., portraits of Paul and Peter, supported by a cross ; on the reverse, the Pope's name. After the two letters P.P., is the number, in Roman numerals, which distinguishes such Pope from his pre- decessors of the same name. Bulls of grace and favour had strings of red and yellow silk ; of punishment, hempen cords. The most ancient are written in Roman running-hand ; and in Lombardic, from the twelfth to the thirteenth century, though small Roman characters were occasionally used. A mixture of the two kinds, obtained so late as the fifteenth century. Du Cange says, " Briefs was the term a])plied to the Papal acts, sealed with wax ; Bulls to those with lead." These very valuable and curious relics were stolen from the Cathedral about twenty years since, where they were placed in the NOTES TO ILLUSTRATIONS. 157 Lady Chapsl (then used as a library), and preserved in a glass-case- The dean and chapter now only possess a model of them. The White O'ozs. — In the road leading from Hereford to Hay, at the junction of another road leading to Burghill, and the battle- field of Mortimer's Cross, is an interesting architectural relic, the White Cross. It consists of an hexagonal flight of seven steps, each ten feet long at the base, and gradually decreasing with the ascent ; each step is eleven inches in breadth and. twelve in height. These are surmounted by a shaft six feet in height, also hexagonal. On the sides, which are two feet broad, exclusive of a pillar at each angle, are square jjanels, including pointed arches, which contain, on shields, a lion rampant, which were the arms of the Charlton family, who were formerly Earls of Powis. Above, is an embattled parapet with the moulding and base of a second division of the shaft, which is said to have been destroyed or buried, during the Civil Wars, by the Roundhead soldiery. The entire height of the Cross, which was restored in 1850, at the expense of the Right Hon. and Rev. Lord Saye and Sele (one of the Canons Residentiary of the cathe- dral), is fifteen feet. During the prevalence of the Black Death or Plague of 1347, which may be said to have been invited to Hereford by the open moat, narrow streets, and other deficient sanitary regulations of that period, no market-people could be found willing to enter the city. The markets were consequently held at this spot, then a piece of waste ground ; and on this occasion, all clothing and other articles belonging to the citizens, which were deemed infectious, were dipped in large tanks of vinegar. Some years afterwards. Bishop Lewis Charlton, whose monument in the Cathedral bears the same heraldic devices, erected the Cross, no doubt in commemoration of the plague, though monkish writers ascribe his motives to a different origin. It appears that St. Canti- lupe frequently walked to and from his favourite palace of Sugwas (situate about two miles and a half distance from the Cross), whence one day returning, and coming in sight of the cathedral at this point, he is reported to have heard the bells ring for some lime of their own accord, though it does not appear he ever mentioned the tune. As during the prelacy of Charlton (1361-6) the shrine of the sainted prelate was in the zenith of its power, this tale would doubtless enhance the interest of the Cross in the eyes of the pilgrims. Ancient Equcsir'um Statuette. — This curious relic is supposed to be 158 HEREFORDIA. about 500 years old, and conjectured about that time to have be- come the property of the College of the Vicars Choral, at Hereford, in whose possession it has ever since remained. From the costume of the armour, it appears to be about the time of our Henry HI. It is formed of brass, and stands about twenty inches high, and is nearly twelve pounds in weight. The knight has evidently the crusader's flat helmet, with the ornamental cross forming the sight- piece ; hauberk of scale-mail, and chausses of chain-mail. The shield on his left arm is wanting ; the sword, in the right hand, is extremely broad, and without the cross -guard. The horse is orna- mented with trappings and breast-band, which has apparently had bells attached to it; on the forehead of the horse is a projecting tube, and the top of the helmet is open, and formerly had a crown. The whole of the horse and man is holLw ; and whether they have been intended for use as a lamp, or for the purpose of holding hot water (query, a tea-kettle), the learned are much in doubt. Goodrich Castle and Goodrich Court. — A pretty bend of the river Wye, affords a glimpse of the.old Castle looking down on Goodrich Court, erected about thirty years since by the late learned antiquary and armourist. Sir Samuel Rush Meyrick, Knight. Tliis gentleman was commissioned by his late majesty King George IV. to arrange the armoury at the Tower, and at Windsor Castle. The Town Hall, JBntchers' Hall, and St. Peter's Church. — The engraving represents the Old Town Hall, now standing in the High Town, Hereford, but which it is proposed shall be removed, and be replaced by a clock-tower. The Town Hall was creeled by John Abel, carpenter to King James I., who also built the Town Halls of Leominster and Ross. The Butchers' Hall, a fine old house in the Elizabethan style (and the last of the houses forming the late Butchers' Row), was erected in 162 1, and stands at a distance of about thirty yards eastward of the Town Hall. Saint Peter's Church, of which the spire is only seen in the engraving, is situate at the head of Saint Owen's-street, to which it is a considerable ornament. Before the removal of old St Nicholas' church, from the j^oint of junction between King-street and Bridge-street, the situation of the churches was such as to present one at the head of each of the leading streets of the city. Tifiterfi Abbey and the Jlje. — The remains of this beautifid eccle- LUDLOW CASTLE. ' Close-biiilt and nestling on the church-crowu'd hill. Fair Ludlow stands with antique gables still, But not disturb'd by sounds like those of yore, When her stout walls Montgomerj-'s banner bore, Tlie founder of the fortress ; by whose fame 'Palace of Princes,' dates its fitting name." Herefordi; Canto IV, ■H NOTES TO ILLUSTRATIONS. ^59 siastical structure, stand on the edge of the river, on its southern bank, about five miles from Chepstow. Arms of the Author. — Quarterly, ist, sable ; a dolphin embowed, vorant a fish proper ; a mullet, for a difference in chief argent. 2nd, gules ; three Lucies (pike fish) hauriant and erect argent (two and one). 3rd, gules ; a chevron, or, between three arrows, barbed and shafted argent. 4th, gules; three gauntlets erect argent (two and one). Impaling. Quarterly, ist and 4th argent, a fess between three fleurs-de-lis sable ; 2nd and 3rd ; argent, on a bend gules between three pellets, as many swans proper. Crest, a dolphin embowed, vorant a fish proper. Motto, " Decrevir Ltidlow Castle. — The ruins of the splendid old fortress are here given as seen from the Herefordshire side of the river Teame. Ludlow Castle, strictly speaking, is not locally situate in the county, but it is included in the diocese of Hereford ; a portion of the borough of Ludlow, however, is in Herefordshire. THE END. ERRATA. Page 22, line 6, for For fabric raised by Wilfred, read For fabric raised by Milfred. „ 27, „ 3, for Wilfred's work, that by Athelstane begun, rmd Milfred's work, that by Athelstane begun. ,, 49, „ 17, /or High o'er the streanr old Goodrich lifts its head, read High o'er the stream, see, Goodrich lifts its head. „ 73, „ 19, /or Ethelfleda; the routed Danes were slain read Ethelfleda, the routed Danes were slain ; „ 75, ,, 12, for At Hereford, King Edward deposed read At Hereford, King Edward was deposed. „ 84, „ 17, /or Dr. Clarke Whitfield, read Dr. Clarke Whitfeld. ,, 88, „ 12, for Of Kelpeck Church and Castle take a view, read Of Kilpeck Church and Castle take a view. „ 95, „ 22, for Th' impassion'd tones of Whitfield's solemn strain, read Th' impassion'd tones of Whitfeld's solemn strain. / I yi ^y<:^ />/£^c ^% Aj-^^ yA.^,^t.<^^^ ~if^^ "^ -z: / ^7-^- ^^<^>^!*^^"'«ji— = — «^vJ7 ,^ ii -TV — (j « -^ />&-^^^^ 6> 7 -^ /C -yy 1 r/- 17. ,^/; i^Si^i^ .Z^^ — - ^. 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'..ia«^^^-^>^ ^=2_-c^ J^ zJy^^ y^^ ^ i^f^f y^ ^/£c P^^ r ^•?i?i^'^»^^ ^^rW?/^. j'J^-^ .jf-^y^ .-^.t-jy /,, A-.^ ,/, i .z:^ ^/^ .-S-v.--- /,-< ^j2J^ ^C ^^ cJ/.^^ Jt^ /rty?-t/^ "^^^^ 2^..^^^/^^ c5 ^^^::2r^^^-<-'^ /-^^--<^ fy-^>--^ /4wy ^y:^ J^t^^^^^y^^-^ y .^v^^ y^ /^ri^JK: A^-^^^^^ ' ^,>^fii ^^ ^*^Xi-*- /t**^ ,^.t*^^ /.^''■^^^U^^Z^ iA^^z..,^,^ pT^c'^ ^^^^^^ /^-^ y^^^^^ ^'^ ^>.-^t/iy /C^^i^, '^ jP^^^'.^^c'^/ M'-^ ^"^^^ /^^i^'A ^^^^^ \ ^i^n/S^!r^^ ^J^^^^ .^.^-=3 ^^^ ^^i.-^ / \ A INSCRIPTION FOR A DRiNKINa FOUNTAIN. I. Kind Nature plants soft chords in every hearfc : S3 fragrant flowers are pleasing to each eye ; In taese both rich and poor have equal part, E.ijoy thur odours, and her harmony S ■) tae full stream of Holy Love from High Djth sate the yearning of each anxious breast ; Njaa lack the gifb who seek it faithfully Fi-om Him who offers perfect joy and rest. 2. H ^-v g-ateful then doth prove this fountain clear, Rifreshing travellers on their weary way ; Wiea q i iffed from heated hand or goblet rare, It d )tti the parching thirst of each allay. Tne sw33ts of nature never pall the taste, So, virtue leaves a sense of peace behind ; Ths draught here ta'en ne'er works a moral waste, lb favours health, — invigorates the mind. Midi:e Temple. ALPHA. THOUGHTS ON EA.STER. 1. Oh ! long desired was that auspicious hour, When rose the Eastern Star with lustrous power. Discovering where the holy child was born. Whom angels' songs proclaimed at early morn. ' ] 2. In stature growing, soon with comely grace, Grlory ineffable illumed His face ; All-wise in words, Divine in act and thought. Repentance, piety, and truth He taught. 3. " It is finished." That agonizing word. So faintly uttered by our sinless Lord, Announced, " the lamb-like sacrifice was done, — Marvel of marvels, Man's redemption won." 4. Mocked, pierced, and scourged, Christ passed through pangs of death, Yielding His state. His Godhead, and His breath ; But risen now to His resplendent seat, Where praise; and homage countless tongues repeat ; " Immanuel,'' he reigns for ever there, A crown of crowns in majesty to wear ! 5. Shall wo then fail (yet earthward prone to cling !) To seek our Master, Saviour, and King, To share with saints around his throne above. The joy and riches of his peerless love. Middle Temple. ALPHA. / A^cn^ ^ f^. ^ At^ y-^. %. ^^ ~ ■ — ■ ^ * "1H E E E F R D I A, By J. H. JAMES, E.G. & U.S. Middle Twiple. 'A PoEsi intended to celebrate the beauties, and record the fame of the worthies of Herefordshire. In snch u composition tie two main ingredients to be looked for, are accuracy of description and faithfulness in details. With these requisites Mr, James has strictly complied. He has written pretty verses, he has illustrated his volume with well-executed engravings, and he has enriched it with valuable historical notes. If lie is proud of Hereford- shire, the people of Herefordshire ought in return to be proud, that among the natives of the county is one so accomplished as a verse-writer, and so diligent both as a genealogist and antiquarian. "AYe have but one regret to express upon a perusal of this volume, and that is the scant notice*given of St. Ethel&ert, a picture of whose shrine forms the fitting froniispiece to the book. The life of St. Ethelbert, King of the East Angles, is a thrilling romance of the dark ages. If Mr. James had coiisulted the pages of the old monastic writers— if he had looked to the 'Decern Scriptores,' ' William of Mahnsbury,' and 'Matthew of Paris,' he would have discovered tliere, and already prepared to liis hand, one of tlie most tragic tales that ever yet has been told by troubadour or sung by bard. We behold there combined tos;ether, as in an ancient tragic drama, the ambition of Offa, the perfidy of Quendreda, the noble generosity of Ethelbert, the love and grief of Elfrida— of her who was afcerwards a recuse of Croyland, — and with these the doom and death of Quendrecia, and the vengeance of Heaven pursuing the ambitious Oifa in his grave. Here was a subject, not for a little ballad such as ilr. James has written, but a theme worthy of an epic poem ; and it has been lost, not because a poet was wanting, but because the fitting diligence of a pains-taking antiquarian investigator had not been exercised ! " ' Heretordia ' is -a beautiful volume, and from the manner in which it is printed and illustrated, independent of its intrinsic merits both in prose and poetry, peculiarly fitted for the drawing-room."— Zow(7o?i Review. HEREFORD: WILLIAM PHILLIPS, HIGH TOWX. .^ STANZAS (Suggested by the fountain in Garden-court, Temple) Whilst drinking- deep Castalia's cliarnied stream, The flowers of Poesy like magic spring ; Each glimpse, each thoug;ht (a faintly pictured dream). Delightful objects to the fancy bring. Now gazing on the crystal fount below, Cool perfumed zephyrs kiss mv flushing cheek j As youthful maiden's silken ring'lets glow, Prismatic rays upon my vision break. And warm with life, upon the leafy stem. The feathered songster pours its triUing note, Enamoured with the soft, transplendent gem, Rare melodies escape its bursting throat. Though close at hand the busy burghers press, Eager to grasp the much regarded coin, Peace here presides in all her gentleness. Philosophy and Learning (sisters) join. With modest earnings, health, and friendships blest, So, let me labour through the lengthened day, That night, approaching with refreshing rest. Fatigue and anxious care may fly away. Middle Temple, 1st March, 1867. ^^^^'^" ^"^ lis- ^ THE GASTLE AND OHUBCH OF KH^PECK. Unlike yon desolate and barren mound, Where once, with ponderous gate and drawbridge high, The frowning towers of Kilpeck's lords arose. The antique church yet smiles in grace and form. Thus finite things, the pomp and circumstance Of human grandeur fail ; the race and reign Of Princes, Kings, and Emperors decline ; Their strongholds droop, and levelled with the dust, AH vestige of their vanished power is gone. Not so, the altar to the Great, All- Wise Creator, King and Father of mankind. Which still survives ; for pious hands sustain, Perpetuate, and beautify the courts, Where God vouchsafes His presence ; and receives The worship of our meek and grateful hearts. 2. Now to the sacred fane of Norman mould. The faithful flock each Sabbath morn to pray ; There to admire the circling arch, the frieze Enriched with quaint and curious device. The turret, too, with tuneful bell doth mark The course of time, and solemnly proclaims The flight of ransomed souls from Farth to Heaven, There, gathered in their last and quiet homes. The children of the hamlet sleep in graves. O'er which the cheerful sun with splendour shines. And warbling birds salute each new-born day. Middle Temple. ALPHA. DORE ABBEY CHURCH. Far from the road, in Sylvan vale secure. With swelling hills and fertile fields begirt, The ancient Abbey holds its peaceful place. Though sadly shorn of its proportions fair, Beauty yet stamps the consecrated pile ; The lengibened nave, on tapering columns reared. With vaulted aisles, is vanished from our sight. Still the tall tower, with glittering fane adorned, O'er the broad transept keeps a solemn watch, And faultless, stretching tow'rds the smiling East, The chancel yet unblemished strikes our view. 2. No move a train of white-robed monks appear, No mitered Abbot on his stately throne, Nor humble servitor in cloistered cell ; Yet undisturbed by sacrilegious hand, The hallowed purpose o? the church survives ; To pure and simple ordinances given, Both prayer and praise, alternate, rise to heaven.r ?. Preserved and prized through all the shocks of time (Seven centuries recount their former years). Thy courts attest (where, turbulent and rude The strong man l©ng had lorded o'er the soil), A zeal for holy things, exceeded not By those who rule in more enlightened days, 4. Temple of God, sweet shrine of faith and truth, n altar raised to Christ's unequalled love, »,le3t by the presence of the Eternal One, Warned 1^ the music of thy tuneful bells, ^^ • In greater numbers may each Sabbath find The old and young, the rich and poor employed In pious homage to Jehovah's Name. Middle Temple. ALPHA. -^,^, C^u^ r^' /^- A-f IN MEMORIAM. The Very Reverend Richard Dawes, M.A., Dean of Hereford, Died March 10th, 1867, aged 71. I. All softly breathing through declining years, Whilst silvery locks adorned his placid face ; A quiet traveller in the vale of tears. Our pastor, guide, and friend hath run his race. He, mortal, born to struggle and subdue, Infirmity and care have marked his lot ; Yet strong in purpose, diligent and true. To God and man his duty ne'er forgot. E'er swayed by kindness, charity, and love. His rule was gentle and his teaching wise ; Steadfast in faith, he sought his rest above, Where bliss awaits him in the fadeless skies. Aye, he is gone ! Now o'er his vacant seat The sable plumes our lasting loss declare. And muffled peals these solemn words repeat,— " J jabour like him ; for death and heaven prepare. J. H. JAMES. Middle Temple, 20th March, 1867. /^;2>^2^^^ ^^ ^-^-^^1-^ ^^- ii5i^ -7^ -^ % / / ^/^ f ^cTf -^ — THE FORESTER'S SONG. A JUBILEE CHANT. 1. Foresters all, set work aside, Put on your festal gear ; For spring and merry Eastertide Ne'er meet but once a year. The sun doth kiss the cheek of May, And hawthorn clothes her bowers; Haste to the hills and dales away, All decked in smiles and flowers. 2. Come with the sash, the horn, and star, Badges of Forestry ; The sylvan glades shall sound afar With stirring melody ; Gather j'e old, and young, and all, Where health attends the breeze ; Let thousands join our festival Under the green wood trees. 3. Come, come with faces blithe and gay, Let sorrow be unknown ; Nor want, nor pain shall cloud the day Which love hath made our own. The sick we'll cheer with ready hand, Mourners shall happy be ; And joy unmixed shall crown our band, The band of Forestry. 4. Pluck ye the lilac pale and sweet. But let the daisy be ; Dance o'er the lawn with nimble feet. For it is our iubilee. Foresters all, set work aside. Put on your festal gear, For spring and merry Eastertide Ne'er meet but once a year, ROBIN HOOD. Elm Court, Temple, May Day. ^l! .^^z.^ ^a^.-e^ ^ ^.Sr -^ '0^^//I^$\n^'»-^y^C THE DERBY RACE DAY. (May 22nd, 1867.) Inaugwated hy ripe cherries, hail, and snow-siormSt Bright beauty, fresh with glow of Spring", Appears with cherries in her cheek ; Stem Winter sunshine envying, Returns with blasts and snow-storms bleak. 'Tis sad, ill-nature thus should blight The milder seasons of the year. Sincere, with frowns, can ne'er affright The smiles which /outh and May-day wear. In passing through Farringdon market at half-past two o'clock this afternoon during a sharp snow-storm, I was agreeably surprised with the sight of a large basket of ripe cherries. ^ ^^ 4z^ -^..**UJ^45t.-' „^::r>^ >^^v < y ,^>^>=i^■Zi^.=^^;.^^ ^?^ ^,r-tL£*'^'^^ZC ^. MY FIFTY-FOURTH BIRTHDAY, Another Year I What doth its record tell ? What mercies unperceived and gone ? How many sorrows now the volume swell ? What countless duties, slighted and undone ? The Past, how brief, yet grievous proved its care ; And overwhelminar, were it not that He, Who knew the ?11, did hope and courage bear, The burthen robbed of its intensity ! 2. Then shall we tarry in this earthly sphere, Where Nature shews both frailty and decay ; Can I dream on, unscathed by harm and fear, Whose pleasures vanish with the short-lived day I Inane, unsating, is our highest prize. If it but savour of mere time and sense, Uncertain are our cherished home and ties. If God and Christ vouchsafe not the^r defence. Middle Temple, May 22nd, 1867. ALPHA. -^^ ^ \U^euJt£4^^^ ^t-r^-- Oi^^ 'z/y^^^^. ^0 • ^:^^^:^^^0^ C-^^-^--^ c>^,.^7^t^,c^t^.t^ ^^ . / ^'^^ ^ ^^ '^ y ^ ^^'^-^--r T^^i^ gw ' J IN HEMOHIAM. Mrs, Jane Jones, wife of the Reverend Albert JoruSt ^-4.> died 7th May, 1867, aged 64 years. Can it be so ? And doth the spark of life, Like dazzling meteor quickly pass away ! With hidden danger is our being rife, Ever the fading creature of a day '( So lately smiling, and by hope upborne, To share the joys of friendship, love, and home. From fond relations so abruptly torn, Thou sleepest now, a tenant of the tomb I 2. How shall we realise the treasure gone ? An untrue tale doth it not rather seem ; Are life and death, the dear and absent one, But fleeting phantoms of a mystic dream ? * Twere wild to challenge God's supreme decree. Which hath our hearts, our choicest idol riven. To blame the voice that softly summoned thee, To quit dull earth, and shape thy course to hearen. 3. Yet not despairing, we would fain be free. Nor sadly hence thy exit now deplore. With thee in bliss, each anxious soon to be, Where thou, in Mercy, are but called before. And stricken sorely, oyerwhelmed by wo. Thy kindred lose thy precious lore and care : Bereaved, beneath th' Almighty's hand they bow. Warned by thy end, for ours all must prepare. J. H. JAMES. Middle Temple, 13th May, 1867. OUR CIVIC MOTTO. Invict/B Fidelitatis Pramiicm. Courage doth nerve the warrior to fight For kindred, country, liberty, and right. When danger hovers, prudeuce prompts the way To shun the perils of a deadly fray. But true to honour, loyalty, and love, Fidelity the surest stay doth prove ; Nor might, nor threat with duty interferes. No selfish thought, no jealousy appears. \ friend smcere performs the ooblest deeds. Success e'er smiles, where his example leads ; The ifood achieved, no recompense he seeks, Save" but the thanks a greatful heart bespeaks. His r.ame revered, his virtues often told, Are themes delightful to the young and old. S ertJ'.l, 'hioi^AleUtatis Pr<.,niu,n:\ The bonier s.lt.res. Jul ^ .otto were Krante,l by Charles U. u. .uUlition U> a new XU- f>y the jriU.mt defence, by Sir Barnabas Scuda- „o e ot tl e eiiy 'knd castle of Hereford, agamst the ScoU-h utider the Earl of Leven. This event was the last I»ece of ?n. cess "ained by the Royalists. It has not been stilted m the iHteXtorU-s what were the civio arnis prior to the tune of the FlantHKenet dynasty. Probably they wore the sainea.sthoHe ; saS bv the bishops previous to the tin.e of C.atduiH: n.maly : Gnles. a bezintbelw.n.n three Saxon crowns, eo.npiH.-,! I.'emLlv <>;• P«»ints and ci-osses. Would some of the eoi- ve/spondents of the Joumal, connected with^the corp.>rRt.nn. be kind enonsh to inform me upon llus "':it'cr^ HEKEFOKDIKNSIS. Middle Temple, 20 May, 1867 7'- ^ . .^ /y ^ ^<:rv /> -/- J^^ V"^^ ^^ ^ '527 ^^-^^ '^^^CP^ THE BE-KNIGHTED CITIZEN 1. The Lord Mayor is a baronefc, An honour right to claim ; The Sheriffs twain, with chains beset, Add knighthood to their fame. 2. Poor Rose, by cniel Whiglings Still lives a happy wight ; He, too, though tardily, is A brave and gallant knight. 3 . And Bodkin, '^MMMn, good as he, The royal favours share. Promoted to the like degree, A full-faced helmet wear. L/ X Of dignity ne'er may they tire, Five worthies of the town, Whilst great Earl Derby (Stanley's sire), Protects the Queen and Crown. Note.— The Lord Mayor Gabriel has been promoted to a baronetcy; and the sherififs (Mr. Alderman Water low and Mr. Lycett) have been made knights ; and Alderman Rose, who was passed over at the close of his mayoralty by Lord Palnierston, now receives a similar honour. Mr. I » W. EI. fied^n, assistant judge at the Middlesex Sessions, A/LyT^*0**^*'*-'y^. and MhlUHMMM^flAP., have also shared the royal favours. • /^*/ 1 A. knight is, 'by heraldic usance, entitled to wear a full- fit/t^lUv*^* faced helmet. NON EQUES, ' I Temple, 2nd August, 1867. ^ y ^ ^ * ^ , * J^^^ 1^ y^:v yr^y^^^^ ^5' >^ AUTUMNAL LEAVES FROM SOMERSET. STANZAS : \,^WiggvSAi hy the Scenery pom St. Vinc^nCx Ho'l.s ( l.fo,!,, near Bristol.] SftVO, that Jehovah, by His high command, Bad© Nature firsi; the solid granita hew ; Or that an Earthquake huge, with iron hand, Cleft the grey stone, and forced a channel throii-^b,— How could the silent Avon make her way. Like g'!i'er serpent, thread the deep defile, Where bpai^kling prisms reflect the Solar ray, And rock on rock in wondrous strata pile ? 2. Magnificently grand, from dizzy height, Glancing along the am be- -tinted trees, It is to tvace the s'-ream defined and bright, Now smooch as glass, ihea c.-isped with rippling breeze I Dappled and bh^e, with he'-e a id there a cloud, The sky is mi.Tored on the iver's breast, And sinking slowly in its moul'cen shroud, The Sun doth vanish in t le glowing West. Swift as the flight of birds in mornin-^- air, Or slow and swan-like o'er its )im )id wive, The buoyant cr<-.ft their living bni-i;heas beir, Seeking the rest which M' id and Bo ly crave ; Nor woo thev he Ith in vain, whilst j.)cund Spring And Summer-smishine with their smiles appear ; Whilst Au oumn doth its golden riches brmg To crown the portais of the dyiag Year. " - 4. Here Nature shapes her course in rare outline. Where Hill and Valley form a matchless view, Whei-e Sky and Water, Shadow soft combine, To deck the scene with'fresh, luxarirat hue. Nor JAcks it Music's ever pleasing sirains. Where lark and linnet s-ng the long day through. And Philomel, by night doth charm the plains, With warblings chastest, thrilling, sweet and new. /?^<:- 5. Hata^ mark, how Art with Nature dares to vie, And Science scorns the ma^aitude of space. In ?.ir suspended (p inful to the eye !), O'er the broad chasm slim arches hold their place. From shore to shore see, curving chains appe-ir. Not touched by waves, nnscfthed by storm and wind ; Where travellers, free from accident and fear, A ready path, from hour to hour, now fiur'. Temple, 27th August, 1867. ALPHA- 11 \ 86 NA^^ONAt. ymJbi THE LOST BARON. 'Twixt Queen and Lords we're doomed to hear A most uncivil strife ; Both stickling for a living peer. But not a pper for life. Lord Campbell deemed the ptatent queer, Of Baron Wensleydale, -w Which, though he has no " son and heir," Shall in remainder fail — To make a Lord of child unborn. Or, male kin more remote, — Who might the E-oll of Peers adorn, /' * With name and blood of note ! St. Leonards, too, upon his word^ — / 'Gainst which none dare dissent, ^ Declared that Parke, altho' a Lord, Is not of Parliament. So 'twixt the two, the BARONWlost A Judge's snug retreat ; V^ But has a title at the cost — Of Salary and Seat ! ^' v:> TSEl FLEETING YEAR. •* Eheu ! fugaces, Postume, Postome, Labuatur Anni." — Horace. ttow swift is time, whilst o'er its silent way, Nor storm, nor tempest stems its ceaseless flow ; And circling years exhaust both night and day, Into the past their memories softly go. With smiling mien, young Spring hath come — is gone, Painting the mead with rainbow-tinted flowers ; Bright Summer warm, with ruddy beam hath shone, Protracting eve with twilight's charming hours. Next, golden Autumn crowned with fruit and com, Outpouring ruby wine in glistening streams. To human hearts a fount of joy hath borne, Promoting rest and pleasurable dreams. Stern Winter, too, with icy palm and breath, Holds in his clutch the bosom of the earth, His harvest gathers, rich in tears and death. And these to melancholy thought gives birth. But welcome Christmas with his grateful cheer (Kind minister of mirth with laughing eye), Essays to hide the closing of the year, Bids gloom and sorrow from his presence fly. Brief are the seasons, and how much of pain A few short months inflict upon the heart, Since friends and kindred may not here remain, But one by one from busy life depart. Who may be next to swell the funeral train ? Jehovah only can in truth declare ; He warns each soul with solemn words and plain,— '• Put off earth's coil, for heaven's delights prepare." J. H. JAMES. Middle Temple, 22 ud December, 1866. "^ A SONNET. Hail Cambria ! Thee, Nature, grand and wild, Superbly clothes, excelling rule and art ; Faery-land, ocean-girt, and mountain pil'd, Where terrors strange huge cataracts impart .' Thy ancient prowess 5'et makes glad the heart ; Thy bardic glories in the memory throng; In visions fresh thy martyr'd spirits start ; Birth-place of Music, Loyalty, and Soner, The strains of David's harp thy minstrelsy prolong. Who traces now thy fertile plain and hill, The smiling hamlet studded here and there, Surveys the flocks which feed beside the rill, Can but enjoy thy sweet, contented air ; Recalling days, when wasted, lone, and bare, Castle and cot succumbed to foenian's rage, He must the bright and peaceful change prefer, Nor wish renewed the dark and cruel age, When with thy sons and soil stern havoc did engage ! Thy shores, dear Wales, no longer teem with war, The plough succeeds the devastating sword. The pruning-hook supplants the death-winged spear. Rich golden sheaves the bread of life afford ; So verified hath been the prophets' woi-d, Victoria fills Old England's peerless throne. Of whom true love and praise are ever heard ; Thou, too, doth prize thy Prince, her first-born son, And him with pride thy faithful people look upon ! I fit Bmoxinm. THO\fAS PR[CE, ESQ., LL.D.. The ^Irhnl^rfu ™°^^^* ^'^^ serene, ' And wh^ th!*'''*^ p"'^ soberness he 'wore i So nrnr; Ji ? ^."5°^ *"a^ c'-ossed our way. SootMn^f^'^ '^"' ^'" ^"'■^ ^»d valued aid; Rv^n5*^^^":^r "^ *^« troublous day By love and kindness quick deliveranTiade. Gentle yet firm, he sought the purest end P.i^fk guide and pastof of his ?elIow-men • Oh ZV"^' ^f^r^^^ ^'^"^^^^ and alTen'd Oh ! where shall we descry his like Lain ? ' VvXiir;^^ii' NAundisCyed bVS And htn T "* anH eloquent, his words were few • And btendmg wisdom with the irrace of vl!! ' H.S earthly oo„r«, he usefull/^^r/ /hSh. M.ddle Temple. ^^,^j^g_ ■ ^-»-ll.^<_ . ///^ I Some thirty years have smoothly passed awav As many springs have worn their bright array! As many golden autumns ceased to glow Ax many winters robed the fields in snow. Since m my youth I saw thee, beauteous Wales, And gambol'd o'er thy pleasant hiUs and vales. Enticed by summer's balmy air and sky. Tired of the world, its cares, and apathy. Once more I breathe in Cambria.-where to be Is paradue of life and ecstacy 1 ?Sr^!°.?I°'* *''? strivings of mankind; Ihe greed for wealth, collision of the mind. , I roam at liberty, as if no bound Constramed the earth and elements around'. At morn I climb the mountain's dizzy height. There gazmg watch the skylark's rapid flight ; Boarmg through clouds, entranced I contemplate The warbhng songster close at heaven's high gate i Thence, crimsoned with the sun'j exciting glow I look upon the moving mass below, ' Not in cold hate, such feeds the coward's breath-. Suggesting deeds of vengeance, guilt, and death, iJut kind forbearance, charity, and love. The constant attributes of God above. Screened from the stroke of noontide's fiercer foat,- The verdant plains afford a safe retreat ; Ensconced in shade of over-arching trees, Where babbling rivulets and whisp'ring breeze TeU their soft tale, I read through nature's book, And through her to the great Creator look ; Him ever bless'd, yet praise and prayer can reaohl The meed of thanks, which gratitude should teach' :' Praise for the goodness now vouchsafed to me. Prayer that His mercies may continued be 1 As twilight o'er the fading landscape steals, , Wafting the dew, which coming night reveals',- My footsteps wander to the pebbly shore. Where the green waves their ceaseless waters poUt';- Bearing unseen upon their dappled crest The countless treasures of old Ocean's breast Drear grows the scene, and hollow is the sound, Which moaning comes athwart the wave profoundl A sense of terror, dim, and undefin'd, Chills the warm blood, and agitates the mind ; Till the broad moon attracts the straining sight. Gilding the clouds with slow, increasing light,— Climba tTie blue vault, and o'er the ruffled main Draws the bright stars in her resistless train 1 * Tia then the spirit gains its proper tone. Though tranquil, yet it ne'er can be alone ; God,-who hathfashioned earth, and sea, andland,- Sustaining worlds in His Almighty hand Is e'er present, and by His Son hath given To every soul eternal bliss in Heaven. Soft as the sky in rosy month of May, Quiet as ocean with its sunny spray, , Peaceful as forests in the summer wind. So Cambria prospers with a placid mind, Thrifty and clean her children Bear their way,- Palns-taking, happy through the livelong day, Nor strife, nor havoc scares the fertile land, Such once prevailed, when Rome with iron hand' Essayed her arms in Briton's blood t' embrue, T ' enslave thy people and thy soil subdue. If wildness reigns, ' tis in Creation's face. Where Nature lives in grander forms to trace' The pow'r of Him, who can in thunders peal. His boundless will and majesty reveal ; Yet condescends the lowly flowers to rear, Master-piece of work, subject of his care. Gently as an infant, with unshod feet, Treads the soft glebe and tends the daisy sweeti So God as father o'er the world presides Guarding with love whate'er His hand provides. Cambria I famous is thy land ; in story. With deeds and names thou fill'st the roll of glory;' Princes and bards, great warriors, and those ■Who in science, and learning's page disclose Triumphs of thought, and on the heart unheard Pour the bright truths of revelation's word. Where, too; are they ; dull both of soul an-i tongue;- Who, lisf ning to thy dulcet harp and song. Can fail to catch the fervour of the strain, But, listening, try to utter it again 1 Cambria ! Thou hast lasting charms for m6 ; Thy daughters chaste in maiden purity. Thy sons, too, cheerful, temperate, and kind (The social virtues happily combin'd). Of the world's burthens take their proper part, Religion ruling both the head and heart ; Each for the other generously lives, Sharing the bread a bounteous Maker gives ; Ne'er slighting any, not the low and poor. Or stranger wearied at their open door I Cambria ! Bright gom in Albion's crown. Thy prince and monarch claim thee as their own ! O'er mountain, valley, and the trackless sea, ■Victoria knows thy love and loyalty ; In peace or war, a faithful friend, and tried. With English. Scotch, and Irish, side by aide. The gallant Welshman fears no foreign power. But glories in the fight, enjoys the ho Hoome it must, to join the common i Protect his sovereign, country, home, and laws ! , /fjC^y And all alike would grace the scroll of fame, 1/lC^.Jit. a t^^ Where Nelson, "'-"^'- Picton, Camnhell. claim ' ' ' ^ ' "-^^^ A lasting tribute toflfeir deeds anc Siddle Temple, 15th January, 1867. ^r u s I c (A Souvenir of the Hereford Festival, 1867.) 1. Wherefore bath Music soothing' tonetj, Entrancing to the Mind and Ear ? Speaketh it not of lost loved ones, To Heart and Memory ever dear! Yes ! It renews a pleasing strain, By gentle lips long since exprest ; Restores fond wishes, (but in vain, Lite buried deep within the breast). 2. Music recalls the solemn time When souls delight in prayer and praise, And mingling tongues, in song sublime, Proclaim Jehovah's peerless ways. Hark I Music prompts the .noaning Wind, Whispering through yon bending tree, Whose scattered leaves and blossoms find Light wings to waft theno o'er the lea. Soft Music steals .across the Sea, As white waves strike the pebbly shore, Discoursing wondrous things to be, When Earth and Ocean are no more ! Wbtu Spring and Flora grace thtj plain. Announced by tuneful melody. Fair Nature smiles, and Care and Pain Succumb to powers of Harmony. 4. Wherefore doth Music captivate The hearts alike of Rich and Poor ? Doth it not courage stimulate. Make pleasure innocent and pure ? So, Music, breathe thy charming tone, The welcome Hymn of Peace and Lot», That I, in rapture, when alone May have foretaste of Joy above. 5. Now Heavenward led by sweetest straia Charity claims our sympathy, The faithful in yon sacred fane Their highest pledges ratify. To ease the Widow's sad distress, To staunch the Orphan's bitter tear, Are deeds which God doth deign to bless To Christ, our Master, bring us near ! ^iT. n. jAMBa. , Ttmpla, Ifith Angnst, 1Rfi7. ^ MMA. if^l^ EECOLLECTIONS OF WALES. THE BLACKBERRY HUNTERS. Half clothed, yet happy, without sock or shoa, In troops the children berry-hunting go, With bonny face, and blithe, contented mind, All eager try the luscious fruit to find. In leafy lanes, where lofty hedges hide The sun's fierce ray, and on the green hill-side. The motley groups of every size and age, In the sweet task both handc and eye engage. Clam'rous and quick the rosy striplings toil To beat the bushes, and secure the spoil. Nor fails the search, nor satisfied the will, E'er bonnet, hat, and basket well they fill. Close with the crowd, and party to the work. The brindled curs in quiet thicket lurk ; To win his share young Pug will e'en propose, Till thorn and briar incommode his nose. Thro' Cambrian vales the peasant maiden moves, "With wild flowers decked in fashion nature loves ; When day declines, her footsteps backward roam. With smiles she bears the blushing berries home. Middle Temple. J. H. JAMES. THE NSW YEAR. Slowly and dall, through winter's day, The..sun pursues his heavenly way ; And now and then, with feeble beam, Salafces the hill, the vale, and stream. Mot \\r\% is gone, and noon-tide hour Hath smiled, but with diminished power, Whil<-t eve appears with waning light, Sinks in the lap of sombre night. . The dawn, which next doth rouse the earth," Win 1 eet thei New Year's happy birth ; All-cbee,ail I aaits-a countless throng. The ft ther'd warblers' charming song. With music sott— a brighter ra/ 1 W' 1 cele'br te its natal day. Swest Hope, arrayed in starry flowers, Fa'r spring's delights, warm summer hours, R'ch autumn's fruit, its golden com, Will yield us p'enty every morn ; And if we pray to God above, ( Who sends us peace, and jiy, and lor©, , The passing season^:— oacb now yealr ; Bring Cliiist aad oar salvatior*iiear. ;; . J. H. JAMES: ' MiS-^e Temple; 25^1) Dc<>c mbcr, IS'^0. / WMt^. THE PATRIOT'S GRAVE. ** A ccingar zondfortitudinis** Betired and solemn where Thamesis* wave^ The verdant bank of Ghiswick's meads doUl XaTCQ An Exile, long from relatives and homey The bones of Foscolo have found a tomb j Whom, lost yet loved, Italia softly mourns,' To him with pride the muse of history turnS^ Patriot, scholar, chcisfcraa combined. His country's friend, her great and mj^lstaMniod^ Unawed by frowns, regardless e'en of mighty Upholding Virtue, Liberty, and Right, From foreign rule he strove her land to save^ Por her dear sake now fills a distant grave ! Constrained by duty and his world-wide fame^ His truth, his talents, and his honoured name^ IBright kiadred -spirits meet in silence here. O'er his poor dust to drop affection's tear ; And last, not kast, Italia's noblest son, (Her fetters burst, her second life begun). To bless his shade, in accents keenly felty In grateful homage Garibaldi knelt, With pious hands a floral chaplet wove, A tribute of his deep and lasting love. ^^luA^^ 1/^UJt^ ^<^^V ^iV^^l^<4/-i.^^X^, yA^>p^ L ^^ ^^^^-«^ /v^'-^ ^:,:*,oc. .^i^^ y ^7U>xi^Jr^ /n^^^^^^ r^^L..A«^ /^v-./^ P*^^4 <:-< ~THE PATRIori^KAYK, ra)n4/ortii»«J«nu." Betired and solemn where Thf™«™ '^•^ -.^ For her dear sake i 1 distant grave ! <^--^^'\^:t^i:^^^^ BrigWt kiiiilred-BpiiiU i L silence here. S-er hi» poor dust to drop affechon s t^ ; m« tetters burst, her second Ufe begun). To bless his shade, in accenta keenly felt. In grateful hnmsge Garibaldi knelt, With pious hands a Boral chaplet wove, A tribute of his deep and lasting love. 80 sleeps dear Fosoolo, but not alone, Near him repose,-to glory not unknown. Children of Science, Poe-y, and Art, Who in their .lay played no unworthy part ; The"r works, the.r «af..t6 Loi'i lierooL.:;,ihe p>.;.-ier, aad the great ind good Earl Mao:.:.,iey, oar tiijt ciiibassalor to China, His tomb was vo--tored in the yea.- 1861, by the late Mr. Gumej', Woo sun-irtM hut a sbort period tbi? grateful tribute to liio moiiiory 0; ' [lo exiled patriot and poet, lu the spring olUie vcu- vya. Oeneial Garibaldi, accom- panied b- :.li'' ll'ike aiKl Duchess 01' liiliieibml, and other distUi.,ai^;iea i.eivo.u, visited iho ■;)• ive of i'oscolo. and plaeed iiimn it a lloral niiaplet, ana ( .1 tliidawreath. in i)ron/e lias sinee been substituted, upon wkieh a versa ill. Italian is iii-.iiibed. This interesting event has been cciinnieiiio.Mte.l t'V a clever painting by my relative Mr- Oharlfs l.uev, which was included in the Exhibition ot the Kival .Ua.leiiiy oc Arts in the year 1865, adding another ge'ii to his aire :,dy numerous list ot historical pietuves. 'I'lie i;rave ot the poet was originally denoted by a plain upriL,'ht slab, with the name, ^e, and date ot death. The ^.resent tomb is of sarcophagus form in polished granite, surrounded by a rail of bronze. At the liead is the name "Ugo Foscolo." At the foot, "Died 10th September, 1S27." On either side are tha ata>s of the tloeeasod. namely :— A shield azure, sur- mounted by a coronet set with pearls, and motto, " irciiiffar 3)nO. Fortlliidiim." I am son-y to have mislaid the Italian verse inicribcd ou the broozs wceith, whieh hca been placed where the tloral chaplet ot Oaiibaldi was '^^"*''- J. H. JAMES. Middle Temple, Xovember 22nd, 1806. ^luA^^ C^^Zt^ ^^^"K ^A^-^^'i^^^tLcAj^. /^i^*^ L Z^ >«^ 6^..*^ A^'^ ^:<»yx ,i<^^^ '( .fs\ J^ •^ J i ^~^ ~ — ~^ — '■ — ' ^- >^ n ^ ^^^V r 9^i^/:^c^Jp^y^^^ 7^>4^<";^>z^*^^^.^^^^ ^^^^^ly^^^-^ :/ £^^^"2^*-*^ ^^ ^^;^:^ <^'l ^^^c -^^.. >^ V .^*^, -/•■ V /» y^ ^M^^^/i.^^ '• ^-c . / I y r^fZ^^^^c^ A ^^ / / r-/ / i:2^ '^..^'^UL^'^-^ .u^^^ ■/^C^Z-Z^ ^ ( ^' / ^- C^«^^ -■^v. -£y / ^/'>r .i^* <^-^^- /-•^t ^ -^t:^ C ^^ 7/ / ^^i^^;?^^^ ^ ;^. ^ y^^^'>^\ '-/^^"-^ >4^-<^-£ ^^"^7 ~^^^ - ^^ ^ ^^ ^^ <:-> p •<^ ^^.^^-1, 4 ^^^ ^- ■^^^o THE POEr €HATr£RTO:C» "^Mow few of those who through tlio city go, — Where love of proM afcw^rbs t*he eag^er ^u'ing the bread, the sympathy, and eare, ^uch, Forfune to a favoured child would give. •Tis hard to think—" cjld is the human heart" ; Would it not wish that Genius should live, To share life's joys, her fair and sunny part ? Is Britain ever deaf to Nature's cry, When misery makes known her pressing need ? Oh ! rather does she not her wants supply, And blessings heap upon the sufferer's head ? ii .\v 11) 111}' troubles mis^hii we hourly «pare. Bit f >r the pride which hides the cause of woe ; The murijtl courage which can danger bear, iVf ust HbV thpir certain remedy forego. Thomas Chatterton was born in the city of Bristol in 1753, and died in an obscure street leading out of Holborn, L'ladon, in 1770. «This young man poss:>o;ed an extra- ordiniry genius, and was the supposed aulhor of some pjenis which he averred w^re written by Rowley, a priest, ^'siaid to have flou.ished ia tlie fifteenth century. Chatter- tbn declared thf tl& found these productions in a chest i.i hi itivecitj', but the truth has nev^r y«t been known. ^>'ot ii.-.etmg with the friends he expected, and having strong unbridled passica^, Chatterton, in a fit of despair, put;an end to his existeace by swallowing poison. He is stated to have been employed as clerk in an attornisy's oflBce, where, naturally imbued with a tendency to literary pursuits, his love of poetry, and his power to prodnoe it, may very probably have received additional stimulus. It is ureatly to be lamented that in his, as in too many other instances of struggling genius, be should, through the force of extreme sensitiveness. And false, although pardonable pride, have fai'.ed to disclose bis distressing condition, by which meons, in all human pro- bability, he might Have been rescued from so wretched fate. ALPHA. Temple, September Mh, 1867. f ^ AUTUMNAL LEAVES FROM SOMERSET. SELWOKTHY AND PORLOCK. The Sun it shines on Selworth Hills, Where Nature spoiteth gaily, With cheering strains, her luiidio fills^ The sky, and plain, and valley, follow, ioilow me through the wood, Wuere hi^h the ash tree dim betb. Follow, follow o'er orake and flood. Where faintest echo chimeth. Follow, follow me to the moor, Where the pink heather streameth, Follow, follow me to the shore. Where sun on ocean gleameth. Follow, follow me to the brow ; Earth, bky, and sna united, In pros^Mjcts, there, of beauty glow Upon the sense deli^httid. Follow, follow me to the shore. Where waves o'er waves are beating, Like shades of Time return no more. Their courses ne'er repeating. Follow, follow me to the sea, .Her breast the deep concealing; •Follow, follow where wonders be. The power of God revealing. The Eiirth endures, all firm and grand. The sky smiles fair and bright ; The sea declares its Maker's hand. His majesty and mittht. Then follow, follow through the wood; Tl>e heart no grief concealeth, K"or sorrow l^ng will e'er intrude Where Heaven's sunshine stealeth. Then woo with me, in Pt)rlock Bay, The breezo's gentle luotinn. Hesilth bearing o'er the watery w^j, The tribute of the ocean. The village of Solworthy is situate about four miTe« from Minehead, on the road to Lintem. Its beautiful woods stretch along the«|. hills to Orestone Point, which overlooks the picturesque Bay of Porloch. In the nndgt is a rich valley, tiiiely woo i^ ^-3 t^ (X> ^ ,r, P.H •^^ cgl^"'-^ "^i .^ © ^ l=i OC TO ^" I tr^ <^ ;S f:?' tr- t» O S S M ^ H ^ H sills ^ p ?; t! m O ■ c y ^^^2 g.^ r EL2.B ?r!:i t^^^t^ ^ < O p . - § ^ o hJ p » w 2 PB 2 P P CD _e ^ I— 'M ^J S^^ 2 "^ K f= '^ CD *Tj CD zi. rt , "^ C • ^■g^t^ ri ^. ^ . *^v l^ )^/^^^^4:^z^ ^ y^^^ /Si/x^,.^iyL^£^ ^^^^ /i^ Zl^*^<«^V-^^^--^ ^/^ / p 7 .^ ^ /2-*-K /X-^i-^^-^ i^-^-^L^-^^txy C* A^^u'7-^-^-^^ ^r^/U-,^^ -i*^ >^ — ' cs y ' S^'W^y u^^^'-^^^^ 7^ /^ v^ ^<^^-.. ^P^'-^^ir':; ai^-:iC'^'^^^^^-a 4^ // r/ x^. z' -^^ 0.-^ . .> vx^^ /^' r J^^-^ .<5^ /^> crzri,^ T^£ri>^- V '^J'- V^^ ^^^- ■'^^/:^L^ -^ ^^ -M^' ' '^. ^ ' t^^^y .^^^^ .^^^^ /i^^^^^ -^^^'-^y^ ^ < ^^ n \ - e- j^.f^^^ — ^ <:: C^ ^ ^_5^ ^^ - < ^^ ^ ^ / ^y I L JiJ/^ / * % .e ^ /i^«. •'*i '-.') A ^^'-* \ /- /UA^£^ Z ^^'-<^ /^ .. Jj C*y * < r^ S< I ^^uH^c^Cu^ ^^^^T^/ tr*^/f2f>^ ^^ /i> ^ "■ '^ 'yv'Li.^ Aj:r ,-^y ^^^^^ JU^^-^ ...;^^,^^ /3.^^/^^^ A \. « ^^ , ^i, ^ /7t:<_^ (^i^4^ ^J^^^^^ /%, /><,^^Ar 7^ / -^ /ii ^/7 Tig: ^-t^z^/^j^ Cji. ^. ^4e^< 6^ .^ ^ Y ^^ / -^'^^''^ *"•—*-*- ^<-<^ /2^Z>i^c7 /r-yV^<^ ^-^^^.^ ^c^ --^^^^^^^yiWj Uu:c: -:7 /^J.i^U^c ^^'i V^^ :. /-^st to puss, you, and me ; I close my poem and the post, — " Qu/Les-cat in Fa-ce." Temple, January 15th, 1868. ALPHA. J! ^^^'^2*^**^* ^^ ^^ ^ — ^ ' ^ €^.^ ;S^^^^ ^-.Z^X^ a^^-^^^'^>- ^i ^^^^-*<-4^^^^-^.>.-^^ -^^ ^^c^ ^y V ^A '■^ v^-^ X fr.Yt ^^^^^^ /iU^'^^ /^^<^^ iCj^^c '^^ ^ «. 1 r:'l*,^>^^^^-2.**-^%3- .i.,^t>fctA i^^i}''^ ^.c^L^J^ 3. ^ .^^fZ^JC^^^j. trA^ ^;?-'2^ , /^4- :?^, /^^-^-^,^^^- -'^^' ^-'^ -■'--*' ^^ -^^.>^.,^ ^ <: / '^---^^4C^C1^^^Z^ -J ^ ^^.^.'^^.>.jl;,, , ^ -^, 7-T^ ^^ ^ f- ti^ /^y ^z^<^ ^^y/^l^,^^. r Act^uyt^^/Ci^ ,lhi:^c^4J^/Jir M^l^ji^^tH^ . h <^*^ r'^^^ <^ jt ■i '^<- ,^., ^-^^ J . '. >x''-<'"^'^ /^^e jv X^^^-e^V^*^^ ^^^ ^ ^ <^^ ^<. V^^ A /^ _^^v.. /^^.^^^syy- ^ ^'k. ^V x^^'*'*^ ^v^yC-^-x-^-e^ ^>^ ^ ^^i^Vtti H-f^^t/^y ^ *A 7^ t>i J-^^ ^/t,<- / '^ J ^x ^ t • t ^^-»^K- ^^=" /^; 3-^ 33 ^f>^ ^^^^is ^-y^. ^ri ^p^i^ 1. ^-^ v^Z^^ -s Z^' 'i.^ -^^-/ ^^ /h^y-rV^CAy rri^x} r^ I, c t f^^ ^^i^ CJL^^^Z^ I ^^ J> ^^ ^.-fei c - ^Uj-^^V^-^^ > ^ <-c J7^' V"^,^ a <5^i #-^2-tr%i-' < C2L <^ ^-> ^^^^ ' jACl^^^^ J- *>- ^ .^. ^ c i7_ x^ * < ^ r^ y ^ ^ ^ ^;^^'^_^^^L^i^ ^'r:^^;A^^/r ^l < — / /?7-Z^^^aA^<--^ V ^ / 1 ^ yi " ^^^^^^<^'^^j2:Sy — 7" p^i- ;^^:^^ i^i^^-^ ^--'^-^ ^— <^- 3 3 -t^^ — ^.^:^ 'i^7>*^ /j-'^ c^ A^^y/^l^^ /^^^^ £-■ ^^t"^'-^ ^'.y>/^. z^^..^ ,.:; ^ ?i^/i^^ /^^-idjr /^.c,^,^ z^^^ '^^ ^^ 7'^^ \ ^^ ^ -^ ^^^ ^.^^^C ^ /i^l^^J^^^y ;S ^^ Z^^i^a^ ^ ^^^^^Kr:^^j.^ ^i^ > ^^^^ ^^-*w ^^^< J&AJ) J^£U JsL^^ic:^^ ^-.^XJ^ -Z^i^-/ z^y^ ihtz ^yv ^ l^/^A «:^ y^. /^^rc K^ ri^i^ / .^ 'W ^^^/, , \' /5 ^^S/.^^'^rr::^'^ --^^^^:^ ^fc .-.^t^^ /z /// ^<^ / ^ '^^ <^^"i-^-l-»«,-Vvl^< ^jy^ ->^ V ^ — e^v 1^^$ J^^ U^^^'^' P^Cri^j^ r-%^^ i^^o^^ c.yZ'^/zZZ ^^^^/i-'-v-^^ ^^ J^-L**^^ X ; -. //^,. .^^.^ .p'...A.^:. . ^/m>*'^ "^u^^^^^^-^^^^ -&»i=*=^W^^*^ /->--t-^-^-^ ^.^^^t^U^^ /^^^ l^^^?z-3«'*-^ ^^^'^t^^a^Cn.Ci-ti y^6>i^ •A >^*^ ■"/ ^ .^^ J^ti. A ^:^-<, ^iL.*^'^ f.U'J^ 'i<^^^^. 1« ^ (7 ^ y^/c^^l^-'^^^^t^^^^-'^^^^ JlZ^r^f^C / t^l'^^^^ i^ ^2.^^ ^iL^^^ A if * -^ .^x^/ -^ ^i^^ A.^^^ p^^ ^^^^^" ^; ^^ '^ ;^>^-^ ^-^-^r^J-^ ^^-"^^^^-^ -^- ^^^ />V*-*>^ ^^^f^"'^'^^^ ^^^^^'^^^-^ cc-^^t^-^^ J y^ ^v^ ^^— =^ ^-^..J^^^^^ / -^ — -> f^ Deacidified using the Bookkeeper process. Neutralizing agent: Magnesium Oxide Treatment Date: April 2009 PreservationTechnologies A WORLD LEADER IN COLLECTIONS PRESERVATION 111 Thomson Park Drive Cranberry Township, PA 16066 (724)779-2111 nOwie lologies e :-S66 I