j.°-n^. :c. 4 O '^. /=> ^" ■^^ V' .3^^ <" . .V ':" .>^ ^V ,v o V "^0^ SOME MEMORIES OF OLD HAVERHILL Copyright, 1915, by Albert LeRoy Bartlett. NOV 12 1915 4 t ■ '-1*^ Mrs. Peggy White Bartlett 1776 — 1831 SOME MEMORIES OF OLD HAVERHILL IN MASSACHUSETTS BY ALBERT LeROY BARTLETT Privately printed and limited to five hundred copies, of which this is No. / HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS MCMXV p'-. (TO CI.A414537 NOV 12 1915 SOME MEMORIES OF OLD HAVERHILL I HE door that opens into the room of the past is unlocked with the smallest of keys, and swings open to the gentlest of pressures. A faded silk purse, starred with silver beads and infolded at either end by a silver sliding ring to hold fast its treasures, lying before me brings back from the years that are gone the one from whose silken-mitted hand it swung. I see her walking adown the fragrant, flowery road of a far-away yesterday, her leghorn bonnet with a wreath of flowers beneath its brim crowning her banded dusky-gold hair, while its broad ribbons are tied in an expansive bow beneath her dimpled chin. The white Cashmere shawl is draped to disclose at the throat the broad lace collar clasped with a cameo pin, and the shawl itself is held, where its folds meet just below the bosom, by an arabesqued bar of gold. The flounced dress swells over full petticoats, and touches the ground as she moves onward as the wing of the swallow the Some Me mories wave. Slipping from the folds of the shawl one hand supports the little silk parasol, brown or black or figured to match the dress, and from the wrist soft undersleeves of lace fall back. The other hand carries this little netted purse, its colors then as bright and fresh as the heart and the dreams of her who bore it. He who is at her side wears a bell- crowned tall hat. The high dickey beneath his strong, clear-cut, smooth-shaven face, is supported by a broad black satin stock. The swallow-tail coat of severe black rolls away to disclose a bit of the figured waistcoat beneath, but fits close over muscular shoulders and swells over sinewy arms. And the fragrance and the flowers of that road of yesterday, its impressions and its memories, break upon my senses like waves from the expanse of time, rolling in upon the shores of the present and flood- ing them over. II The house wherein I write is full of memories, for to it my mother came as a bride to be greeted and welcomed by my grandmother and her family whose home it had been before, and who henceforth w^ere to share it with the new household. One by one they all have followed the angel of death out- [8] Of Old Haverhill ward over the portal, and the first-born and the second-born, leaving in their places memories and visions, — " — into the night are gone; But still the fire upon the hearth burns on, And I alone remain." When the house was built it arose amid an or- chard of fruit trees. Forty acres of bloom and scent lay on the slope between it and the glinting, dimpling Merrimac. Peach and plum, pear and apple, apricot and quince, in season gave bloom and in season fruit. Between it and the town, along the river, stretched a short mile of pasture land where the violets bloomed and the luscious black- berry trailed and myriad swallows built their caverned homes in high sand banks. Little the builders dreamed that the factory and the tenement house would devastate this Arcady, and alien races dwell in crowded tenements where then the kine chewed the cud of content in sun-kissed but soli- tary stretches. Ill There are heirlooms in the old house, precious to him, at least, who lives with them and loves them for association's sake. What romances they call up! What dreams and ambitions! Youth, look- I9] Some Me mories ing forward; manhood and womanhood, weaving strong threads into the fabric of life; old age, — and memories! And the romance and the dreams reach back two hundred years. Here is china that graced my great-grandmother's grandmother's table; here some silver, quaintly marked J. ^' S., — wedding silver of my great-great-grandmother's, married in 1756, — the initials meaning that Sarah Longfellow, aged 17, blended her name and her fortunes with General Joseph Cilley's. Senator Jonathan Cilley, the classmate and friend of Haw- thorne and Longfellow, killed in the memorable duel with Senator Graves of Kentucky, was her grandson. Here are law books of my great-great- grandfather, Judge and General Israel Bartlett, and of my great-grandfather, Judge and Lieutenant- Colonel Thomas Bartlett, imported from London in 1745, and bearing their autographs, ^'Israel Bart- let, Esq., 1746," and '^Thomas Bartlett's Book, 1782." Here is the bull's-eye watch which the latter of these carried. It may have noted tri- umphantly the time of Burgoyne's surrender at Sar- atoga, or have marked the anxious hours at West Point at the time of Arnold's treachery, for Colonel Bartlett was in command of a regiment there. Here is the huge old bible with the records of the family from 1712 written in it. Here is the tall [lo] Of Old Haverhill clock that ticked solemnly in the house of the Greenleafs when Benjamin, the arithmetician, was born, and here another, older, that marked time in the home of my mother's father. Here is the ma- hogany bureau, delicately inlaid, with claw feet and swelling front and quaint brass pulls, each em- bossed with an American eagle, that held my grand- mother's wedding linen, and here the Sheraton mirror into which her blushing face looked as she arranged the ribbons and laces for her marriage in 1805. Behind this latticed closet door are some three- volume novels of the early nineteenth century, The Children of the Abbey, Alonzo and Melissa, carefully kept from my boyhood range; Bunyan's Pilgrim^s Progress, Mrs, Hemans' Poerns, — books deemed more suitable for youthful minds, — and old, old school books, — the English Reader, printed in Haverhill, — and the little girl who read its didactic pieces, its argumentative pieces, its selections from Milton and Thompson and Pope, was ten years old! — the Rhetorical Reader, the Historical Reader, Murray^ s Grammar, a Tacitus and other Latin books studied at Dartmouth a hundred and more years ago. What papers have the pigeon holes of these old desks held! What potent documents have been [ii] Some Me mories written here in the clearest of hands, the ink as it flowed from the quill sanded to dry its exuberance! How often has this old brick oven yielded bounties of New England cooking! How many times has the old crane in the fireplace held its bur- den of steaming kettles! How often in the still hours of the evening have the family sat about the tiled hearth, dreaming of the promise of coming days or recalling the fortunes of the past, the glow of the logs giving light, and the housewife, whose hands could not be idle, evoking the music of the whirring spinning wheel. And the old Dutch motto set in the hearth is ''TFo euer schaz ist, da ist audi euer Hertz/' — Where the treasure is, there is also the heart. Dear days of yore, whose argosies were moored in the safe harbor of home! Sometimes sitting here alone, in memory I hear again the old stories and ballads told in the sweetest voice that ever fell upon my ears, or the melodies of the songs of long ago, — Lady Washington's La- ment, Mary o' the wild moor, Bonnie Dundee. Was it so long, so very long ago that the first gift of books was put into my hands, the stories of Fran- conia and of Beechnut, by Jacob Abbott? And is that day, that golden day, so very far in the past, when, O wonderful gift! — two little volumes in red, A Child's History of England, by Charles Dickens, [iz] Of Old Haverhill first led me into the wonderful, entrancing world of history? Grateful beyond words am I for that quiet, gentle leading that brought me into the kingdom of good literature and taught me to find enjoyment in the common things that lie within the reach of the humblest and the poorest, — '' — tongues in trees, books in the running brooks, Sermons in stones, and good in every thing ^ So the past is to me like a meadow full of flowers varied in form and hue, sweetlj'- odorous all, — and out of this abundant bloom I gather but a bou- quet. IV A brilliant woman of Washington who had long had a prominent place in the highest society there, was speaking of the heart burnings, the petty dis- tinctions, the quarrels over precedence, in which not only the ladies but the men took part. ''Tell your mistress," said a distinguished jurist to the servant of the lady whose guest he was, indignant that another than himself had the chief honor of escorting her to dinner, 'Tell your mistress that Justice Blank has been here and has gone . " "I have been visiting in the academic town of A — ," she added, "where I lived some years ago; and I have [13] Some Me movies been somewhat awed by the encroachments of style there. One had a single serving maid when I lived there, but now she must have a retinue, and the old neighborly freedom has been frozen by the icy conventions of modern society." Better is a dinner of herhs where love is, than a stalled ox and hatred therewith. More dear than magnificence pur- chased by the sacrifice of friendly feeling is such a simple neighborhood tea as my mother used to give, whereat she was oftimes both cook and server, when the best china — the old Lowestoft or the blue-sprigged — was brought forth from the parlor cupboard, and the repast was as simple as it was delicious, — biscuits golden brown but white within and light as the heart of youth, butter the gift of kine that fed on flowery meads, honey distilled by the bees of Hymettus, cake with the permeating flavor of spices and fruits, to which time had added the bouquet, and tea that Hebe might have served to the gods. And in my Cranford the atmosphere was clean, and the talk on worthy subjects, and the English pure and undefiled, and the kettle on the hearth sang cheerily. A dear aunt of mine, the youngest and last of her generation, used often to say as she recalled the Haverhill of her girlhood, ''How sweet the birds sang, how fair the flowers were, how beautiful the [14] Of Old Haverhill world seemed when youth and hope and happiness dwelt in the heart." In her more than four-score years she had seen the old home, which is my home, successively heated by open fireplaces, by wood stoves, by furnace-heated air, by steam, and by hot water; she had seen it lighted by candles, by lamps for whale oil and for spirits and for kerosene, by gas and by electricity. She had seen the lumber- ing stage coach supplanted by the steam railway and its energetic rival, the electric tram. A host of modern inventions had multiplied the needs and increased the complexities of life. She had seen the transformation of a typical New England communi- ty into a city that retains few of its old character- istics and — alas! — remembers few of its old tradi- tions; she had seen the population change from one of almost unmingled English ancestry to one where- in are commingled many nationalities, and a Cafe degli Dura V Abruzzi invite patronage where the degenerate descendants of the Indians last pitched their wigwams. And when she would ask me, laughing and knowing full well that it was all before my time, if I remembered the scare of the spectral sow who nightly emerged from beneath ^Svitch bridge," and ' 'lovers' rock with the drooping willow above" that was a trysting place sixty years ago, the Christian Chapel riot, the bars that opened [is] Some Me mories from Emerson's field into Washington square and the quest for the buried chest of gold there, or her own great uncle, Israel Bartlett, who was the last to wear the queue, small clothes and silver buckles in the streets of Haverhill, I could only answer, "I remember them as twice-told tales that never lose their charm." V I live on the road leading ''from Jonathan Shep- ard's past Simon Ayer's," or so the old deed of my farm, given in 1790, describes it, and on Silver Hill, for so another deed locates it; and the last of the Silvers was the occasional companion and the con- stant terror of my boyhood. He lived in a little, black, gambrel-roofed house, the cellar of which still exists on the hill opposite the site of the old Bowley school, now Silver Hill Terrace. Beside his house was a tree hung with all manner of iron fruit, chains, bars, huge anchors, the relics of a sea-faring life. He was spare, grizzly, and to my youthful eyes the personification of extreme old age. When the wind blew from the south he was mild and full of pleasant recollections; but when the penetrating east wind blew and stirred rheumatic pains, and his thin legs were wrapped outside his trousers with red flannel, he was a very gattling gun of profanity. But he [i6] Of Old Haverhill told me many a tale of Indian times, tales that his father had told him and his father had told him, for he was of old Haverhill ancestry. Over old cellars, in some of which sturdy trees had grown to full size, he rebuilt — in imagination — the rude houses that once rose there, and summoned back the settlers whose homes they were. Across the road from my house there was one of these cellars. Some plum trees grew overhanging it, and by its almost buried walls rue and rosemary still survived. In the dread times of Indian warfare, so he told me, the dwellers there, looking out of the little windows of the house, saw in the murky darkness the stealthy approach of the savages. Just a flutter of light here and there disclosed their presence. The bold little garrison loaded their blunderbusses and fired away, only to discover when morning broke that they had riddled the goodwife's washing, which had been spread on some brush to dry, and which a gentle wind had made seem creatures of life and danger. Ayer street and Varnum street mark the domain of another quaint and crotchety veteran of my boy- hood, Varnum Ayer, and Ford street turned into house-lots the gardens of my great uncle. Colonel Ebenezer Ford, whom I remember as always wear- ing the old-fashioned dress coat that well befitted his stately and dignified presence. Opposite his home [17] Some Me mories dwelt ''Old Sloe," — Rufus Slocumb, who earlier kept a tavern on Merrimack street, a short distance west of Main street, and who, before the coming of the railroad, was the freighter of goods to and from Bos- ton. He began this business in 1818, and in 1835 he kept forty horses and two yoke of oxen constant- ly employed in the business, and his large covered wagons almost literally lined the road from Haver- hill to Boston. In one day in 1836 he had full loads for forty-one horses and eight oxen. In his old age when I knew him he could dance like a cotillion master, he could swear like old Silver, and he had a shrill, raucous voice that, like that of Whitefield the apostle of Methodism, could be heard a mile. Small, thin, he was full of intensity and activity, and with a grim sense of humor and unfearing de- termination he played no trifling part in the history of the town. In August, 1835, the Rerverend Samuel J. May, having preached in the First Parish Church on Sunday morning, desired to give an anti-slavery address in the evening. For this purpose he found no hall open to him except the Christian Union Chapel, where the Hotel Webster now stands on the corner of Washington and Essex streets. The lecture room was in the second story of the building and was reached by two flights of stairs [l8] Of Old Haverhill on the outside of the building. Mr. May was at- tended by Elizabeth Whittier, a sister of the poet, and Harriet Minot, both young ladies of great courage and high spirit. A mob assembled and tried to break up the meeting. Failing by lesser means to accomplish their purpose, they drew up before the building a loaded cannon. It was their intention to tear away the outside stairs, fire the cannon, and by a panic bring disaster to those within the Chapel. But into the midst of the mob, alone and unarmed there rushed "Old Sloe," blaz- ing with anger, and with mighty oaths flung forth by his stentorian voice he scattered the cowardly mob and frustrated their design. VI When I went to the old Washington street school, located just below Railroad square, the road leading from what is now the junction of Washing- ton and River streets to the top of the hill was mere- ly a cut bounded by sand banks on either side. We followed a path on the top of the southern bank, now entirely removed, and, like young barbarians, practiced our skill in shooting stones into the chim- neys of the houses below in the "Burrough." I do not think that it ever occurred to us that the rattl- [i9l Some Me mories ing of these missiles on the roof, the well sent stone that actually went down the chimney or the one, unskilfully shot, that merely broke a window, were really unpleasant to the dwellers. What we liked was the adventure; to see from our heights the men rush out like hornets, the swift retreat, the mad — very mad — pursuit; and the thrill of watch- ing from some secure hiding place the angry foe go by. The Burrough, — Frinkshorough, — was a settle- ment lying along the river bank and under the hill where River street now begins. It had an unsavory reputation, although some worthy people dwelt there. Its manners were its own, and its code of morals was not strict. There dwelt — " Chipbird, Tinker, Poker, Poopey-eye, Shag and Bum, Big Liz, Little Liz, Big Burrough, Little Burrough, and many a jug o'rum," as an old rh3^me ran. A century and more ago a visitor spoke of the Burrough-ites as ^'being em- ployed on the river instead of farming, and having the distinguishing vices of looseness, intemperance, and want of punctuality in business." In the Carrier's Address, January 1, 1828, Whittier excepts this section from the vale of the Merrimack that he loves: — [201 0/ Old Haverhill " — blent with every chord That in a heart of deepest feeling thrills, Is the green vale where Merrimack's stream is poured Through the wild vista of its neighboring hills. All's dear to me quite up and down the river With one exception, — Frinksborough, — however." One death in the Burrough occasioned a tribute from Whittier. There was brought to Haverhill and exhibited in Frinksborough in 1832, an Ichneumon, an animal of the weasel family sometimes called Pharaoh's rat. This animal was domesticated in Egypt, and ranked among the divinities on account of its utility in destroying serpents, small vermin, and the eggs of the crocodile. Three young ladies, among them Harriet Minot, went under Whittier's escort to see the exhibited specimen, but it had died and been buried before their arrival. The facile pen of the poet, however, wrote its elegy: — " Thou hast seen the desert steed, Mounted by his Arab chief, Passing like some dream of speed, Wonderful and brief! And the mirage thou hast seen, Ghttering in the sunny sheen, Like some lake in sunhght sleeping, Where the desert wind was sweeping, And the sandy column ghding Like some giant onward striding. [21] Some Me mories Once the dwellers of thy home Blessed the path thy race had trod, Ejieeling in a templed dome To a reptile god. Thou, unhonored and unknown, Wand'rer o'er the mighty sea! None for thee have reverence shown, None have honored thee! Here in vulgar Yankee land Thou hast passed from hand to hand. And in Frinksborough found a home. Where no change can ever come! What thy closing hours befell None may ask, and none can tell." It was westward of the Burrough and along by the river that the sunny stretches lay where the swallow built and the blackberry bloomed and fruit- ed and the earliest vernal flowers heralded the spring. There, a little lad of ten, I was wandering alone, gathering hepaticas and violets, singing, con- scious neither of care nor of fear, when from a shaded ambush there sprang suddenly upon me a boy ruffian who, with the most frightful language, tortured me, beat me on the head with a sharp stone — I still bear the scars — , and dragged me to the water's edge with the intention of throw- ing me into the deep river. Something, I know not what, made him turn and run, and I, drenched with blood, exhausted with pain and fright, dragged my- Of Old Haverhill self to safety, narrowly escaping being a victim of that lust for cruelty that a few years later was mani- fested in the Bussey woods tragedy and the crimes of Jesse Pomeroy. VII The old Washington street school which I attend- ed was swept away in that growth of the city west- ward that transformed lower Washington street from a village road with dwelling houses on either side, into a wind-swept tunnel lying between rows of tall shoe factories. The building, a two-story brick one, was in a yard that extended from Wash- ington street to Wingate, its outer bounds a high, prison-like, brown board fence. When we had finished the primary work under some gentle woman teacher in the lower room, we were sent up- stairs to be instructed in the grammar branches by a master and his assistant. The desks in the mas- ter's room were double, and fortune placed me, when first I reached that room, as seat mate to the worst boy in school. The master was a man of might and muscle named ''Jake" Smith, and daily, at least, he came with black and threatening frown down the aisle to sieze my seat mate by his shoul- ders, drag him across the desk, and over my shiver- ing form lay on resounding blows. Then, when [*3] Some Me mories Master Smith went up the aisle, the "worst boy" would threaten, in blood-curdling language, the most horrible revenge. No dime novel pirate ever had greater command of the things that horrify and the words that shock. A sense of humor, the play of sunshine on waters that else were leaden, that has always lightened life, relieved much the horror of those days, but the ache of the child's heart still reaches over the many years that lie be- tween then and now. The little white-headed boy who met the threat of the teacher to seat him with the girls by exclaiming, ''Oh why not let me go now?" who tried to comfort the music master whose appeal to the scholars to sing so loud as to raise the roof had been met by the feeblest response, by pointing a little finger towards a weak place in the ceiling and saying, "I think I see a crack," has found, however, that the gentle humor that wounds not, that is so clean that it might be uttered in the white halls of Heaven, ''bars," as the servant in the Taming of the Shrew says, " a thousand harms, and lengthens life." When this school building was dedicated in Dec- cember, 1849, Dr. James R. Nichols, later the dis- tinguished scientist and the scholarly editor of the Journal of Chemistry ^ read a poem. Here is an ex- tract from it: — Of Old Haverhill "The teacher asked, 'How many rods a mile?' And as the youngster paused a gentle smile Relaxed his boyish features, and with eye Fixed on the birch, he ventured to reply : * How many rods a mile? I cannot tell ; But this one feeling truth I know full well', — A truth we all must learn sooner or later — *It takes but just one rod to make an acher.' " The dread days of the Civil War went by while I was a grammar school boy, and the scenes of its pomp and pathos passed before my eyes. Up Wash- ington street marched the home troops on the way to the railway station, and down the street, worn, weary and broken, they passed on their return. What cheers we gave them! how reverently we followed them ! how we envied them ! Carl Messer, riding on the noble steed that his townsmen had given him ; Colonel Jones Frankle, proudly bearing the sword inscribed ''Be just and merciful, "that his confident friends had entrusted to him. The martial spirit was in the school; the boys wore soldier caps; the girls with their own hands made the flag that swung before the school; from the button holes of our little jackets hung the emblems of our loyalty, — I still have mine, a little medal with the picture of Lincoln on one side and of Hamlin on the other, which my mother tied in with a little blue ribbon as she told me that I must be a loyal little Lincoln lad, Us] Some Me mories — and woe to the one who was not enthusiastically and devotedly patriotic! There was a little lad in the primary department — Charles Oscar Wallace — with the usual grime and tousel of the small boy on his hands and face and hair. He went to the recruiting office to enlist. "Can you write?'^ asked the Captain. ''No," was his reply, ''but I can fight like h — 11." And when he came back to school — such is the hero-worship of youthful minds — we saw not the grime nor the tousel, but only a shining hero with the halo of daring over his head. Of the spirit of sacrifice of our elders I think there is no more tender evidence than this: when Clarence Woodman, an idolized youth, slain in the conflict, was brought home for burial, one of the papers of the town quoted as the spirit in which the dearest were given for the life of the Nation, these patriotic and pathetic lines from Cato : — *' Thanks to the gods! my boy has done his duty! Welcome, my son! There, set him down, my friends, Full in my sight that I may view at leisure The bloody corpse, and count those glorious wounds. How beautiful is death when earned by virtue! Who would not be that youth! what pity 'tis That we can die but once to save our country! Why sits this sadness on your brow, my friends? I should have blushed if Cato's house had stood Secure and flourished in a civil war." [26] Of Old Haverhill For some years the circus pitched its single tent on Wingate's field, the land between Wingate and Granite streets just back of the school, and on such days, though our eyes might be on our books, our real selves followed the clown or the strident calliope about the streets, or in imagination witnessed the fairyland that the canvas hid from our actual gaze. Advancing trade displaced the old dwellings of Washington street that were within neighborly dis- tance of the school house. Some were torn down, some were moved back, some were burned in the great Haverhill fire of 1882, and some journeyed to new neighborhoods. Next to the schoolhouse, on the east, was a house kept immaculate by its mis- tress. The garden back of it bore fruit tempting to the eyes on the other side of the board fence. But the house stood prim and proud, and a bit disdain- ful of its neighbor with the swarming school child- ren. The day of its ill fortune broke upon it. Moved to the junction of Washington and River streets, as if broken in spirit it became at first shabby, then somewhat dilapidated, and then, as if abandoning all pride, it went to complete ruin in a debauch of dirt and neglect. And have I not seen in human lives, ''so weary with disasters, tugg'd with fortune," such downward course with ever in- creasing speed to Ruin? U7I Some Me mories VIII Little river was originally the West river, and northeast of its junction with the Great river — the Merrimac — was the site of the village of the Pen- tucket Indians, Pentucket meaning '^the place by the winding river." When Washington on his mem- orable visit to Haverhill, November 4-5, 1789, stood here by the junction of the greater and the lesser streams — ** And he said, the landscape sweeping Slowly with his ungloved hand, 'I have seen no prospect fairer In this goodly eastern land, ' " — a little bridge, twenty feet wide, spanned the smaller stream, and the view up and down the Merrimac was unobstructed. When as a school boy I went my way to the old High School — now the Whittier School — the north side of W^ashington square was open, and here I was wont to lean over the railing to watch the waters of Little river dimple and sparkle as they flowed beneath the overhanging trees, or the gundelows that had brought up the fragrant salt hay from the Salisbury marshes, or the swift swirling waters when the spring floods swelled the peaceful stream to an angry torrent. Some- times on Sundays I stood with the reverent throng [28] Of Old Haverhill on the south side of the square and watched the rites of baptism as those who followed the old Christian custom were immersed in the clean and cleansing waters of the Merrimac. On the north- west corner of the square, where the Hotel Webster now is, stood the Christian Union Chapel, after- wards the South Church. For many years the minister of this church was Elder Henry Plummer, a man of noble countenance and commanding form, who in all the years of his preaching never received a regular salary, believing that there should be no bargaining about the proclaiming of the gospel, and relying for his support upon the free-will offerings of his people. He believed, too, that the true message of the preacher was directly given by God, and that to make careful preparation, especially to write a sermon, implied doubt of the Inspirer. I have seen him rise in the pulpit and say, ''Brethren, the word has not been given me," and then the meeting became one of prayer and testimony by the brothers and sisters. He became an earnest be- liever in the extreme Advent doctrine, and on one occasion when an excited meeting of kindred be- lievers was being held in his own home and ail seemed to expect immediate ascension to Heaven, his witty but somewhat impatient wife called to her youngest daughter, ''Run, Abbie! hist the scuttle [29] Some Me mories and let 'em go up." When Elder Pike, of Newbury- port, appeared in the pulpit in exchange, everyone was on the alert, for he was one whose quaint utter- ances now moved to tears and now provoked to laughter, and his swift shafts of wit spared not the individual members of his audience. ''If those who wrote the scriptures were not inspired by God," he said once, ''they were no better than — ," — here his eyes searched the congregation, — "than — you are, Brother R — , and the Lord knows you ain't any better than you ought to be," and the brethren, swift in response, cried "Amen! Amen! that's gospel truth!" In later years a minister temporarily oc- cupied the pulpit, who had the peculiarity of never hearing a long word without being possessed to use it in his next sermon. A pupil studying aloud once used the word parallelopipedon in his presence. He, knowing nothing of the terms of mathematics, appropriated the word as the name of some mon- strous animal, and his next Sunday's discourse con- veyed the startling assertion that "the sinner would hear his doom with the awful fear produced by the roar of the parallelopipedon in the aboriginal forests of Africa." If quaint characters sometimes occupied the pul- pit, still quainter occupied the pews. One sat in the pew directly in front of mine, and made person- [30] Of Old Haverhill al the vivid descriptions of the wicked given by the minister by turning round and pointing her long fore-finger at me and such chums of mine as were with me, saying, ''That's you, and you, and YOU." There was another, strangely lame like Vulcan whose gait convulsed the gods on Olympus, as ugly in feature as Victor Hugo's Quasimodo, his lengthy prayers but prolonged groanings, his testi- monies but strange and ludicrous malapropisms. ''The preacher spoke so suffectingly there wasn't a dry tear in the house," he said once. "Sinners, what'll you think when you wake up and find your- selves dead?" he would ask. "I've got some good nieces, all girls," he would explain. Late in life he married one who was the negative of all charms of character and person, a union brought about by some practical joker. "Mary Ann," he said as they came from the minister's after the ceremony, "you go on one side of the street and I'll go on t'other. 'Taint assembly for us to walk together." While I mention these oddities I am not forget- ful of the many sweet, humble Christian lives that hallowed the old church and made its influence in the town a helpful and uplifting one. In the earlier days Washington square was some- times flooded when the spring snows, melting, swell- ed the river, but the highest flood was on March 15, [31] Some Me movies 1846. The ice, breaking up in the river, had form- ed a dam at Bradley's falls, a mile above the village, twenty feet high. This suddenly gave way and the huge mass of water swept down upon the village. At Washington square it rose twenty-three feet above highwater mark, swept the bridge away and down to Artichoke creek, and surrounded the church in which the worshipers were holding their Sabbath evening service. The old hymn which they so of- ten sung, ''We are out on the ocean sailing to a home beyond the tide," was made almost literally true as the boats took them from the water-beleaguered church across the swelling and tumultuous flood to safety. In the middle of the square was erected in 1857 a flag-staff 183 feet high, and when, after ten years standing, this was cut down, it was replaced by one 200 feet high. Here was the scene of many a smart contest as the fire engines vied with one another in the height to which the streams of water could be sent, the men crying as they worked the pumps, ''Break-'er-down! Break-'er-down! Break-'er- down!" The land where the post office now stands was part of the two hundred acres given as pasture land to the Reverend John Ward, and until it was sold to the United States in 1892 no deed of it had been [32] Of Old Haverhill passed for more than two hundred years. In 1883 the stone arch covering Little river was extended from the street line to the Merriinac river front. Here about an acre and a quartei of land was made by filling, and when the Park Commission was es- tablished in 1890, it was turned over to them for im- provement. And here the Park Commission began its work in 1890, with the simple equipment of a wheelbarrow, a hoe and a broom. Here of the de- sert has been made a place of beauty and fragrance and rest. The valuation of this land is about $325,000, and the cry has sometimes been heard that it should be sold; yet how infinitely poorer we should be with this money in our treasury but with this restful and delightful oasis Jn the busiest part of our city forever covered with piles of gloomy brick. " A thing of beauty is a joy forever; Its loveliness increases; it will never Pass into nothingness; but still will keep A bower quiet for us, and a sleep Full of sweet dreams, and health, and quiet breath- ing." In 1849 A Week on the Concord and Merrimack Rivers, by Henry D. Thoreau, was published, but it met an unappreciative reception. To obtain the money which its publication required the author was obliged to use his ability as a land surveyor. [33] Some Me niories In this avocation he surveyed for the heirs of Cap- tain Emerson of Haverhill the old Emerson farm, extending from Winter street to Washington square. Within this tract there was a beautiful grove adjoining Little river and sunny meadows lay contiguous. Long ago, in Indian warfare times, this land was owned by Captain Simon Wainwright. He was killed in the memorable raid of August 29, 1708, but a tradition lingered that he had buried a chest of gold on the farm, and treasure hunters often in days gone by have dug within the confines of this land, and especially with ardor and hope near an old oak tree that stood by the bars that led from Emerson's field into Washington square. IX Through the parsonage lands Front street, called Merrimack street in 1837, was laid out two-and- a-half rods wide in 1744. The land where so many beautifdJ shops now exist was an alder swamp, and the first attempts to pave the street failed be- cause of the insecure foundation. When the first Baptist church was built in 1766 on '^Baptist hill," on the site now occupied by the Academy of Music, its location marked the extreme western end of the village. This first edifice is seen in the oldest pic- [34] Of Old Haverhill ture of Haverhill, that made in 1815. A second building replaced it in 1833, and the third structure, the one with the towering steeple familiar in pictures, built in 1848 and torn down in 1872, filled the more than a century of Baptist worship here. The strong- ly antagonistic feeling of denomination against denomination, happily now almost lost, in the earlier days is shown by the address of dedication of the third house, November 8, 1849: ''This society in its earlier days, like all others, sprang up from the tyrannical spirit of the boasted Puritans, whose car of Juggernaut undertook to crush under its wheels all who did not worship the Savior of mankind according to their dictates." On the same oc- casion the pastor, contrasting its Gothic tower with the beautiful Corinthian spire of the Bradford church, said, ''It is a source of great gratification that this church has been constructed on correct Christian principles, in contrast to the pagan temple on the other side of the river." But out from the verdant beauty of surrounding trees the white Corinthian spire of the "pagan temple" still rises, a "silent finger pointing up to heaven," while the Gothic structure has been long replaced by a play- house. Of the lack of Christian amity between brethren of the same church there are many true stories. bs] Some Me mories In one of the Haverhill churches a constant atten- dant was Mr. Butters, an excellent man of very im- pressive manner, who used to go up the aisle to his pew carrying a beautiful gold-headed cane and supporting his elegantly-dressed wife on his arm. In the same church was Cornelius Jenness, a man of witty devises, sharp tongue, and many animosi- ties, born, as someone once said, ''otherwise minded." Mr. Butters had in some way offended Mr. Jenness, and so on the next Sunday as in characteristic state he went up the aisle, he was immediately folowed by Mr. Jenness, carrying in exact mimicry a stick with a huge door knob on it, and supporting on his arm his withered, bent and shabbily dressed housekeeper. A bar, a stumbling block, a perpetual veto, this "otherwise minded" brother was the subject of frequent prayer. In one evening service a zealous member earnestly implored the Lord to make bro- ther Jenness more amenable, more in harmony, more pliable, or, if this seemed impossible, merci- fully to remove him. And Cornelius arose and said, "I won't go." Farther down the street and a little west of Fleet street was a stately old mansion with its yard and stable, built by Dr. Nathaniel Saltonstall in 1789. Dr. Saltonstall was a younger half-brother of Colonel [36] Of Old Haverhill Richard Saltonstall whose home was the Button- woods, on Water street. On the death of his father in 1756, when he was ten years old, he was received into the family of his uncle, Meddlecott Cooke, Esq., of Boston. Here he grew up in sympathy with the patriots, and was thus estranged from his Haverhill relatives, who were tories. He inherited in Boston the land on School street on which the City Hall now stands. This land he sold, and with the pro- ceeds he built the mansion house in Haverhill. He married Anna, daughter of Squire Samuel White. His daughter Sarah married Isaac R. How, Esq., the grandfather of the late Gurdon How and of the late Mrs. Susan How Sanders. In 1871 the house was moved to a beautiful location north of Lake Saltonstall, where it still stands, retaining in its in- ward and outward appearance its colonial dignity and beauty. The old shipyard between Merrimack street and the river was a place of great delight to the boys of seventy years ago. As this was a generation before my time I borrow a description of it from the grace- ful pen of one who knew well the Haverhill of that early day, Dr. John Crowell: — Just below the "Baptist Hill," Sloping towards the river side, Where rolls today the busy tide [37] Some Me movies Of labor's ceaseless ebb and flow, The ship-yard stood — we knew it well; I almost think I see it still, With shapeless timber and smoking tar; — The hewer with his broad axe armed. Hewing away with measured sweU, From Bradford shore that echoed far. O, what deUght to the dreamy boy To creep and chmb o'er the staging tall. Deeming it then his highest joy To watch the growth of the mammoth side Of the noble ship, as day by day The steaming planks encased her bows That swelled aloft in graceful pride. And now the calkers fill up the seams With oakum and tar, till all her beams And decks and hatches are water tight. Behold, upon the shaven side, The painter, drawing in brilliant rows The rainbow hues in living Hght, That soon shall show upon the tide. When she has kissed her native sea. • ••••• O, speed the ship, as down she floats Through shallow stream to meet the sea! O, welcome her with peaceful notes, For, lo! she comes to dwell with thee, — With thee, old Ocean, till her sides Are dim and worn with storm and brine And ceaseless ebb and flow of tides! I close my eyes; the vision fair Comes like some dim, half vanished dream; The ship-yard rises, and the throng That shouted in the Autumn air. When the fair ship first kissed the stream, [38] Of Old Haverhill Make music like a childhood song. Old voices come with saintly swell; My dream is gladdened with the sight Of far-off faces, and the night Is mellow with the pensive note, So silver sweet, of "Baptist beU;" I hear the cadence gently float — The sounds of childhood sadly sweet In melting tones my senses greet." X For eighty years the old Haverhill bridge was a DQore or less picturesque feature of the town. Built in 1794, and then without covering, it was consider- ed a marvel of strength and, with its graceful lines and its white gleaming woodwork, a structure of ex- ceeding beauty. Its early appearance has been pre- served for us by a sketch drawn by Robert Gilmor of Baltimore, a young man who made in 1797 a journey extending as far east as Portsmouth, New Hampshire. Returning he stopped in Haverhill for a few hours. The manuscript journal of his leisurely journey is in the Boston Public Library. In it he speaks of Haverhill as a particularly pleas- ant and beautiful little village, and he describes the bridge as follows: * 'Across this river (the Merri- mac) is thrown one of the new constructed bridges like that of Piscataqua, only this has three arches [39] Some Me mories instead of one, and the work which supports the whole is above instead of being just below the bridge. I had time enough before dinner to step to the water's edge and take a sketch of it. While I stood there, with my drawing book laid upon a pile of plank which happened to be convenient, and in- tent on my work, I did not perceive the tide which rose very fast, and on looking down perceived my- self up to my ankles in the river. The water rose so gradually that I did not feel it." (Robert Gilmor, a young man of wealth, born in 1774 and hence twenty-three years old when this journey was made, was of such eminent family that in his travels he had admittance to the best society. He called in Philadelphia on the Vis- count de Noailles, and was the guest while in that city of the wealthy Mr. Bingham. He called upon the artist Gilbert Stuart at Germantown, and found him engaged upon a copy — the first that he made — of the celebrated full length portrait of Washington, the original of which he had made for Mr. Bingham for presentation to the Marquis of Lansdowne. The copy that he was making was to be the personal property of Mr. Bingham, and Stuart told Gilmor that he had orders for as many copies at $600 each as would bring him $60,000. Stuart then had the appearance of a man who drank much, his face being red and bloated. Gilmor visited Mr. Craigie in Cambridge at the Craigie House, and in Boston he was an invited guest at the pubhc dinner in Fanueil Hall to President Adama.) If it had its season of graceful and fair youth when our great grandmothers and great grand- [40] Of Old Haverhill fathers were the belles and beaux of the town and leaned over its rails to watch the sparkling river, whispering love's lightsome messages to the rythmic flow of the tide, it had also a period of sturdy strength when time had turned its beams to a mellow brown and it wore the protection of a roof, when Slocomb's freight wagons went in long lines through its rumb- ling tunnel, and herds of Vermont cattle crowded it as, bleating and bellowing, they were driven to the Brighton shambles. If its twilight gloom, its musty smell, its dizzy footway, its general appear- ance of mild decay in its old age, live in the memory of old Haverhill boys, there lives also the remem- brance of its keen and witty tollman, Stephen Morse. Let one go by without paying toll, and Morse locked the gates and followed in hot pursuit. He was known to go in the chase even as far as Bradford Academy. ''I suppose," said one haughty dame whom he had pursued to the further end of the bridge, ''I suppose you would have chased me if I had been a skunk!" ''Marm," he replied, ''if you had been a skunk you would have left your (s)cent." On one occasion a young man haughtily passed him a ten-dollar bill. ''Can you give me nothing smaller?" asked the tollman. "What right have you to inquire into my finances?" was the arrogant reply. The tollman silently locked [41] Some Me movies the gates and went up the street for change. He sought the large old-fashioned copper cents, and wherever he sought them he stayed and chatted and enjoyed the warmth of the fire, for the night was bitterly cold. Finally weighted down with a thousand of them he went back to the half-frozen youth and proffered him nine hundred and ninety- nine. "Haven't you something larger that you can give me?" asked the youth. *'By what right do you inquire into my finances?" said the tollman. "But where can I carry them?" "In the emptiest thing about you — your hat," was the last shot. The hat of the youth, however, covered the head of him who was later the brilliant senator of Kansas, the author of Opportunity, the Honorable John James Ingalls. A lover riding by with his lass in a "one-hoss shay," tossed pertly into the mud the coin from which the toll was to be taken. The toll- man picked up the coin without a word, but he left the change where he found the coin — in the mud. At the Haverhill end of the old bridge was a fish house where "Jonty" Sanders boiled lobsters. The Haverhill patrons sometimes complained that when they went out of town there was no rebate, but when strangers came into town they received a (s)cent back at the fish house. [42] Of Old Haverhi\l " Our town's a pleasant one/' sang Whittier, — '"Tis odd, however, That strangers say so, since the first that meets them, When they have paid their toll across the river, Is the old fish stand, whose vile odor greets them In such a style that I have wondered why. With kerchiefed nose, each did not turn and fly." At four-score, graj^ and decrepit, the old bridge was torn down. Hawsers were hitched to its beams and powerful little tugs with many a toot and whistle pulled its arches over into the river that it had so long spanned. The Reverend William Bently of Salem, a wonder- ful scholar and a man of most f acinating personality, the minister of the East Church from 1783 to 1819, kept a very minute diary, and one passage is de- scriptive of a visit to Haverhill four years before the old bridge was built. The town then had a popula- tion of 2,408, and a valuation of $1,519,000. Of the places of which he speaks, Harrod's tavern stood where City Hall now is; the Congregational Church was on the Common — ''City Hall Park"; Assembly Hall was on Water street at the foot of Lindel; General Brickett's house was the one, now much changed, on the easterly corner of Water street and Carleton's court; Chief Justice [43] Some Me movies Sargeant dwelt on Main street, where the Unitarian Church now is; and the Reverend Mr. Shaw oc- cupied the parsonage on the commanding site where now the beautiful High School stands. "September 22, 1790. At J^ past 6 in the morning I went from Salem to Haverhill to attend at a Review of the Regi- ment, & to visit Capt. Elkins who is superintending the build- ing of a vessel I soon mounted a Hill, which gave me a sight of Haverhill steeple 4 miles before I reached the ferry. When I arrived at the ferry I found that the Review was to be on Bradford side. I found Capt. Elkins at Herod's Tavern below the Meeting House. The landlord was a neighbor of mine in Boston, & has a family of nine children The Town has many good Houses, and an extensive prospect, be- ing situated upon rising ground, descending to the River, upon whose bank is the great Street. The Street extends a full mile but the group of houses is at the upper end & the dwell- ing Houses chiefly above the Street. At the lower end is an elegant Seat of the Saltonstals, now the property of Mrs. Wat- son of Plimouth. It has about 30 acres of land, an ancient row of elms and Buttons, and a most engaging prospect of the River and adjacent country. At the upper end of the Street is the Baptist Meeting House the only respectable assembly of that denomination in the County, & that is lessening. It was founded about 30 years ago during the ministry of Mr. Bernard, by a Mr. Hezekiah Smith who is the present pastor. It is much out of repair, as are houses in general of that denom- ination. The Assembly Room is in an unfinished building. Below is a Shop, & the entrance into the Room is by a flight of Stairs behind the Shop. As it is upon the Street, it opens into a Gallery with a handsome painted Balustrade. Over the fireplace at the opposite end is a loft for the Band, & the whole Room is finely arched and convenient. The Drawing Room is behind. The Congregational Church has a most ex- cellent site. It is facing you as you ascend a street leading [44] Of Old Haverhill from the main street into the Country. The houses round are pleasant & in good style. It is painted white, has a steeple & small bell which rings at one & nine. The interior of the Church is without elegance or any distinction. In this Town resides our Chief Justice Sargeant. Back of the Meeting House & on the side is the House of the Revd Mr. Shaw. The scene was engaging while I was present. The River was alive with Boats. The opposite Shore was crowded with Spectators, & every diversion was pursued which rural life permits. The regiment consisted of 800 rank and file, & the Company of Horse. The men were well dressed. The Col. named Brickett gave entertainment at his House for the Clergy, the OflBcers dining at Bradford on the opposite side of the River. He is by profession a Physician. There was a manly freedom in the higher class of people, but a strange contrast to the manners of the lower people, who being employed, instead of farming, upon the rivers on rafts & lumbering, have very much the manners of the people in the province of Maine .... At Haverhill the River is about K of a mile wide, & the tide flows commonly about 4 feet. We are carried over in Gon- dolas. 23rd. I returned as far as Newbury. I came down on the Haverhill side with an intention to pass at Cottle's ferry, 4 miles below the town. There is a ferry called Russel's, 3 miles, entering the road by a brick house on the right. But as the waterman lives on the other side & Cottle on this, they es- tabhsh it as a rule to pass down by Cottle's & return by Russel's ferry." XI It is difficult to restore old Water street to its condition when it was a street of aristocratic resi- dences, but I have heard my kinswoman, Mrs. Abbie Kimball, whose long span of life began with Us] Some Me mories the nineteenth century, the daughter of Sheriff Bailey Bartlett and his beautiful wife, Peggy White, describe it when her father lived there, — the row of stately houses on the north side, with gardens be- hind and terraced banks and flower beds in front, the river side open, and the view of its flowing waters unobstructed until it turns and is hidden by the hills. There stood the imposing mansion of ''Marchant" John White, the richest man of the town, with a hospitable entrance leading to a broad hall with a beautiful staircase. Flowers bloomed in front, in box-bordered beds, and back were well ordered and fruitful gardens. Here apartments were prepared for Washington when he came to Haverhill, but he took quarters at Harrod's tavern. He paid the honor of a call, however, to Mrs. White and her daughter-in-law, Mrs. Leonard White, and to Mrs. Bartlett, whose husband he knew well. The ''Marchant" White house later was kept as a tavern, called 'The Golden Ball," and later by the widening of the street its terraces and entrance were destroyed. Now, still noble in its decay, it stands on the west side of Stage street, removed from but yet near the scene of its days of grandeur and large- hearted hospitality. The old burying-ground on Water street, lying on the eastern confines of the crowded part of the city, [46] Of Old Haverhill its few acres sloping gently upward from the high- way and the Merrimac beyond, is the most sacred of all the roods of Haverhill earth for it holds min- gled with its earth the mouldered ashes of the fore- fathers and of later generations of worthy and illustrious citizens. Upon the shore of the river immediately below the earliest settlers, mooring their pinnace, disembarked to found here their new home, the limpid mill stream just above attracting them. Within these confines and beneath a spreading tree they offered their first worship here to the God to whose care they reverently confided themselves and their fortunes. Here on a knoll that lightly swelled from the surrounding land they built their first rude meeting-house in 1648. Here, probably, the thirteen children who died before 1654 — flowers too frail for the rigors and the hardships to which they were exposed — were buried in unmarked graves, and the twenty-seven other children and the seven adults who died before 1663. Following the custom of the old England from which they had come, the fathers set apart the land by the House of God as God's Acre — the resting place of the dead — , vot- ing in November, 1660, that the land immediately behind the meeting-house should be reserved as a burying-ground. Whatever stones may have marked the earlier graves have been destroyed. [47] Some Me movies The earliest legible stone is to the memory of Eben- ezer Ayer who died October 10, 1695, aged 17 years, 4 months and 19 days. The youth whose brief span is so exactly measured was an orphan, the son of Peter Ayer who died in 1682, and of Hanah AUin Ayer who died in 1688. Here the sorrowing colonists laid to rest in March, 1680, Alice, the ex- emplary and devoted wife of the Reverend John Ward, the first minister of the town, and here after half a century of service and in the fulness of his eighty-seven years, the venerable pastor himself was buried. Here, too, rests the line of his successors for more than a hundred years, — Rolfe, Gardner, Brown, Barnard, Shaw, — the stone of each commemorating his labors and his virtues. Al- though there is no proof that Hannah Duston, the early heroine of Haverhill, or her brave husband, Thomas, lies here, — the probabilities are negative,- yet many of their descendents are here buried. Here were interred the victims of the memorable Indian raid of August 29, 1708, — the minister, Rolfe, killed where the High School now stands, Captain Samuel Ayer, Captain Simon Wainwright, Lieutenant John Johnson, all men of great bravery, and twelve other victims, buried on the day of the slaughter because the intense heat made it neces- sary, and many of them placed in a common grave [48] Of Old Haverhill because the effort of making separate graves was too great for the exhausted survivors. Here per- chance rests the first ' 'exile from Erin, ' ' the j oily Irish fiddler, Hugh Tallant, who set out in 1739 the row of sycamore trees that bordered the Saltonstall estate below. " Not a stone his grave discloses; But if yet his spii'it walks, 'Tis beneath the trees he planted, And when Bob-o-Lincoln talks." The original confines of the burying-ground have been from time to time extended. In 1732 an ad- ditional acre-and-a-half was bought; in 1777 Colonel Badger gave an increase of land; and in 1817 the boundaries were extended by purchase to their present limits. Pentucket cemetery occupies the lower half of what in earliest times was known as the Mill Lot. In 1845 the upper half of this lot was purchased and a new cemetery — Linwood — laid out. This was dedicated April 21, 1846. To it many of the dead from the old cemetery were removed, for through carelessness and inattention the old ground had fallen into a condition of neglect. The stones had been thrown down and broken; the rambling blackberry covered the graves; weeds grew un- checked; and the rude and lawless made the place a resort for their idleness. The ladies of the town [49] Some Me mories set themselves to remedy the shame of this condi- tion. By their efforts, particularly by the proceeds of a levee held April 10, 1847, sufficient money was raised not only to make all needed repairs and im- provements, including the buckthorn hedge on the west and the iron fence on Water street, but also to erect the monument that now stands there to the memory of the Reverend Benjamin Rolfe. At this time the name of the Old Burying-Ground was replaced by that of Pentucket Cemetery. All of the inscriptions that mark the graves of those who died before 1800 and that are legible have been copied and are recorded in the Essex Antiquarian for Janu- ary, 1908. These inscriptions mark the simple directness, the reverence and the religious faith of the times in which they were written. Whatever in them seems quaint is so merely because forms of expression change. Like all inscriptions above the dead, they recount their virtues, express sorrow for their loss, hopes for their blessed immortality, and the briefness of life and the certainty of death. Whittier in his poem. The Old Burying-Ground y descriptive of one in Rocks Village, speaks of the forefathers as setting apart to Death the ''dreariest spot in all the land,'' — For thus the fathers testijfied, That he might read who ran, [50] Of Old Haverhill The emptiness of human pride, The nothingness of man. They dared not plant the grave with flowers, Nor dress the funeral sod, Where, with a love as deep as ours, They left their dead with God. The hard and thorny path they kept From beauty turned aside; Nor missed they over those who slept The grace to life denied." This burial place was not ill-chosen, however. It sloped downward to the south and the warm sun lay upon it; the broad river laughed or sobbed just beyond its lower confines ; the mill brook sang along its western line. Its memorials were rude and simple, but they bespoke love and memory, even though they often were writ with lines that, like the voice of Fate, reminded him who read that he, too, was mortal. The inscription on the footstone of Israel Ela, who died in 1700, is a proper finis to this chapter: — THY : OUR IS : RVnE THY : TImE IS : DVnE [51] Some Me mories XII The brook that turned the mill that gave to Mill street its name has disappeared from view, the dust of the forefathers has long ago become as the dust wherewith it is commingled in the old Pentucket burying-ground, but below is an old house over whose portals passed in and out some of the first settlers of the town, the old home of the first preacher of the town, the Reverend John Ward. For more than two hundred years it stood where it stands now; then, like nearly every old house in the place, it was moved to a new location. But when its historical value was appreciated, it was bought and restored to its original location. In it lived that sweet daughter of John Ward, Elizabeth, who won the heart of Nathaniel Saltonstall, and in it possibly they were married, December 28, 1663. With Elizabeth her father gave as dowry the estate now known as the ''Buttonwoods." Their grandson was Judge Richard Saltonstall, born July 14, 1703, a Colonel at the age of 23, a Judge of the Superior Court at the age of 33, one of His Majesty's Council, "a man of talents and learning, distin- guished for generous and elegant hospitality, and for his bounteous liberality to the poor. His address was polished, affable and winning, his tem- per gentle and benevolent, and he enjoyed the love [52] Of Old Haverhill and esteem of all." Under his direction the noble avenue of sycamore or buttonwood trees was planted by Hugh Tallant, the first Irish resident of Haverhill, the village merry-maker and fiddler, jolly and witty, — " Merry faced, with spade and fiddle, Singing through the ancient town, — Only this of poor Hugh Tallant Hath tradition handed down, — Jolliest of our birds of singing, Best he loved the Bob-o-hnk; * Hush!' he'd say, 'the tipsy fairies! Hear the little folks in drink.' " For a century and a quarter the shade of these Occidental plane-trees fell across the road and upon the waters of the river beyond. Then a blight attacked them, and in February, 1867, they were cut down and their trunks, sawed into planks, were used to build a wharf below the Haverhill bridge. Of the mansion of the Saltonstalls nothing remains save a tradition of its elegance and its hospitality. It stood on the beautiful site now occupied by the Historical House, the stretches of the glorious river in front, and resembled in its appointments and in the mode of life within the homes of the gentry of England. The eldest son of Judge Saltonstall and the heir [53] Some Memories to this estate was Richard, born April 5, 1732, who was commissioned as Colonel in 1754 and made Sheriff of Essex County in 1760. Brave in fighting, philanthropic, with a strict sense of loyalty he maintained his allegiance to the King when the Revolution was brewing. In the excitement of the times a mob of men from the outskirts of the town surrounded his house one night to express by violence their disapproval of his position. But he met them with such dignity, serenity and kindness that their fire was quenched. He left the town, however, soon after and returned to England. Here he declined the offices offered to him by the King, but lived honored by his English friends. He lies buried by Kensington church, with his virtues commemorated by a monument there. His estate became the property of his sister, Mrs. Abigail Watson of Plymouth. The mansion was destroyed by fire, the estate was sold to Colonel Samuel Duncan, and the house now occupied by the Historical Society was built on the site of the former mansion in 1814. The brick house a short distance farther down Water street, sometimes known as the ''Spiller House," though built in the manner of a garrison house with port holes and narrow windows, was never a place of refuge or defence. It is, however, [S4] Of Old Haverhill nearly two centuries old, having been built in 1724, and it is historical in having been the home of John Eaton, the early town clerk. XIII It seems to have been the fortune of many no- table houses in Haverhill to make at least one journey. The Dr. Saltonstall house retires from busy Merrimack street to the sylvan banks of Plug Pond; the Sheriff Bartlett house is divided, a part being moved to Dustin square and there burned, a part to the corner of Water street and Eastern avenue; the John Ward house makes a forty-year visit to Eastern avenue and then returns; the Judge Sargeant house goes first to Pleasant street and then to Spring court; the interesting house formerly occupied by the late George C. How, removes from Water street to Main street; its neighbor across the street, the Butters house, comes to town from the Kingston plains; and the list might be made much longer. The old house long known as the Smiley house, on the west corner of Pleasant and Winter streets, was earlier Kendall's Tavern, and stood on Elm Corner at the junction of Main and Water streets. A few rods east of the elm tree was a fount of clear water, known Some Me mories as Kendall's spring. North of Kendall's tavern on Main street was Peter Osgood's apothe- cary store, and beyond that is still the Osgood house, although it is hidden from view by the one-story shops that cover the front yard where once tall lilacs bloomed while between them a pebbled walk led up to the front door. The last resident in this house, Miss Ann Osgood, was an old, old lady when she died. When I was a boy and acted as assistant in the Haverhill Athenaeum library, Miss Osgood's choice of books distinctly impressed me because it was in so great contrast to that of the majority of the ladies. She read Motley's and Prescott's histories, the works of Parkman, and if she descended to fiction it was some volume of Miss Muhlbach's historical novels that she took across the way. On her mother's side she was of a notable family whose coming to Haverhill had romantic features. Her grandfather, Benjamin Willis, was a ship-master of Charlestown who married in Boston, Mary Ball, a kinswoman to that Mary Ball who was the mother of Washington. At the outbreak of the Revolution Mr. Willis was captured by the British. His wife and her three children Benjamin, Robert and Mary, lived on Charlestown neck. Near their home was a stream of pure and fresh water. A British man-of-war an- [S6] Of Old Haverhill chored near by and took possession of this water supply, enclosing it and declaring that it would shoot whoever entered this enclosure to get water. A neighbor of Mrs. Willis took her pail, one day, and started to get water in the enclosure. Mrs. Willis warned her of the peril, but the neighbor said, **I want the water, and I am going to get it." A shot from the ship blew off the woman's head before the eyes of Mrs. Willis. Then she, terrified, declared that she could no longer live there, and, hardly caring where fate might take her, came by chance to Haverhill. She believed her husband dead, she was poor, and the trying days of the Revolution came. She lived on Water street in an old house that was called "Noah's Ark." After the war was over her son, one day, watched a boat that was coming up the river. He started, gazed earnestly, and rushed to his mother with the cry, "Father is coming!" "No, no, he is dead," said his mother. "Come, see!" he begged. And as she reached the river side a man leaned over the rail of the boat and shouted, "It is I, Molly, come home to die!" He did not die, however, but lived to become a prosperous merchant on Merrimack street. His daughter Mary married Peter Osgood; his son Benjamin, going as supercargo in one of his father's ships to London, became acquainted with a leading [S7] Some Me movies merchant of that city, who took such a strong liking to the young American that he gave him both advice and assistance and enabled him to become one of the largest importers in the state. His ships laden with valuable cargoes came into Newbury- port, and thence his goods were brought up river or sent whither their young owner desired. The daughter of this Benjamin, Mary, married the Honorable James H. Duncan, and was long the dignified, gracious and beloved mistress of the man- sion now occupied by the Pentucket Club. The Athenaeum building, in the upper story of which was the Athenaeum library, occupied the site where the Odd Fellows' Building is now. When it was removed in 1872 the remains of three vats were uncovered. They were part of an old distillery, where West India molasses was made into New England rum, and the water for its use was brought in wooden pipes from an excellent spring, back of Music Hall, that gave the name to Spring Court. XIV An old map of Haverhill, published in 1851, is of much antiquarian value because it designates the residences of the citizens of that time. It is em- ts8] Of Old Haverhill bellished, too, with a number of cuts of public buildings and among them is one of the first Town Hall, built in 1847. Its four massive pillars in front, supporting the entablature, form its notice- able architectural feature. A belfry rises above the front of the building, and over this hovers a golden eagle. The hall was formally opened February 22, 1848. There was an historical address b}^ the Honorable James H. Duncan, and the singing of an original hymn of which the following lines are a part: — " Let us anew the scenes renew Here wrought in days of yore, When hostile bands with murderous hands Roamed our fair precincts o'er. The savage whoop, the fiendlike yell, Spread fearful consternation Where our town clock and massive bell Now wake congratulation." — It was by poetic license, undoubtedly, that time had been siezed by the forelock, for the town clock was not put up until two months later. — " Thy sons shall still, old Haverhill, Thy patriot deeds revere Long as the sun shall shine upon Yon eagle resting here." The reverence of the sons of Haverhill has not been bounded in time by the stay of the town hall [S9] Some Me mories eagle, for when this hall, outgrown as soon as built, was replaced by the newer one, in 1861, the eagle was placed on the hook and ladder house on Fleet street. Thence it has stolen in silent and myster- ious flight I know not whither, but where it rests I hope it may keep up the cry of the homesick soul until conscience compels its keeper to restore it to its earlier precincts. When on the evening of September 5, 1853, the streets of the town were to be lighted by gas for the first time, a plan was formed fittingly to celebrate the event. There was to be a procession of the military and the dignitaries of the town through the illuminated streets, the band leading and playing triumphal music, to the Town Hall where a banquet and toasts were to be enjoyed. All went well as planned except that the gas refused to burn or even to be lighted. It was indignantly told around the town the next day that ''Jonty" Sanders — a local butt — had maliciously pulled the wicks out of the gas jets, and thus spoiled the illumination. The first sewing machine in Haverhill was shown in the old Haverhill Bank building on Main street, nearly opposite the Eagle House. There was great prejudice against the use of these machines on shoes, and those who earliest introduced them for this purpose, — Moses How and Woodman & Lan- [6o] Of Old Haverhill caster, — used to stop and cover them over when buyers came. From the steps of the Town Hall George W. Lee strongly harrangued against their use, claiming that the work was good for nothing, and that their introduction would bring distress and starvation to the workers. The present City Hall — it still bears the brown tablet marking it as the Town Hall — was dedicated August 6, 1862. That was its formal dedication, but for four years it received a continued and greater dedication in the patriotic uses to which it was put. The stimulus of noble oratory, the en- thusiasm of crowded mass meetings, the great fairs in aid of the soldiers, the simple but impressive services over the dead heroes, all hallowed it to the cause of humanity and liberty. From its platform all the great speakers of that age of oratory, — Sumner, Phillips, Beecher, Chapin, — counselled and taught and inspired. There, too, music often ex- ercised her sway, — the Mendelssohn Club, Ole Bull, Camilla Urso, Annie Louise Cary, Adelaide Phillips, and she who held so large a place in the hearts of Haverhill people, Julia Houston West. The play was rare there, but in its place were the dramatic readings by great interpreters. All, all are gone, and yet I see them still, their gracious smiles, their little mannerisms, even their silks and [6i] So7ne Me mories their laces, bowing beyond the footlights of the past. The story is told of Mrs. Vincent, who sometimes played here with William Warren and the Boston Museum company, that once the stage waited for her until messengers were sent out to hunt her up. She was found remonstrating w^th a burly teamster who was driving a lame horse. As she was hurried on she exclaimed, ''Well, I don't care if the stage is waiting. I won't see a brute driving a horse on three legs without speaking my mind." Mrs. Houston West shared this compassion for the abused horse, and never failed to rebuke the one who abused him. The depth of feeling, the fullness of expression, that made her singing a revelation were due to the woman as well as to the great artist. A little anecdote of her, showing another character- istic, is worth relating for the lesson in it. Some busybody had told to a favorite accompanist of hers some criticism of her as made by the singer, and the accompanist, in tears, went to Mrs. West about it. "My dear," said Mrs. West with great sweet- ness and dignity, "she who told you that is neither your friend nor mine," and she made no other answer. Haverhill audiences have often been considered impassive. I recall two rebukes of this coldness, [62] Of Old Haverhill but widely different ones. Bret Harte once lectured here on The Argonauts of '49. He had gone but a little way in his lecture when he felt the chill of his audience. He stopped, looked around, frowned, and growled, ''Humph! icicles dressed up in clothes!" Then he turned to his manuscript, read it through with lightning speed, stalked to the dressing room and made the air sulphurous with curses. Mrs. Scott-Siddons, a very beautiful woman and a genius in the reading of Shakespeare's plays, had given with much power and sweetness several scenes from the great dramatist to an audience that sat silent and unmoved. Suddenly she left the desk, swept out before her audience, and recited a bit of silly verse, describing an auction sale of old bach- elors: — " A crier was sent through the town to and fro, To rattle his bell and his trumpet to blow, And to bawl out to all he might meet on his way, *Ho! forty old bachelors sold here today.' And presently all the old maids of the town, — Each one in her very best bonnet and gown, — From thirty to sixty, fair, plain, red and pale. Of every description all flocked to the sale. The auctioneer, then, on his labor began; And called out aloud as he held up a man, 'How much for a bachelor? who wants to buy?' In a twink every maiden responded, 'I — I! ' [63] Some Me mories In short, at a hugely extravagant price The bachelors all were sold ofif in a trice, And forty old maidens, — some younger, some older ,- Each lugged an old bachelor home on her shoulder." The audience awoke to animation, and the hand- clapping was prolonged and loud. When it ceased, in incisive tones Mrs. Scott-Siddons remarked, ''One touch of nature makes the whole world kin. I thank you for the genuine applause for that you most appreciate." XV Just above the site of the Cit}^ Hall two prim spinsters long kept a millinery and dress-making shop, the little sign above the door reading, ''Af. & P. Wingate, Mantua Makers.'" The wits very quickly designated them as Ma and Pa Wingate. Their ribbons and laces vanished long before my day, and my memory of them is an inheritance. I have often, however, seen them ''in my mind's eye, Horatio," — Priscilla, with her hair looped in smooth bands over her ears, the oak of the establishment, Mercy, the clinging vine, with clustering curls falling over delicate pink cheeks, gazing out through the little panes of their show window to watch for some prospective customer. [64] Of Old Haverhill Prim Prissy Wingate made my bonnet, But Mercy put the flowers on it. It looked so very, very nice, Mama quite gladly paid the price. In flowered band-box home I bore it. And Sabbath day to meeting wore it. A Httle late I reached my pew That all might see my bonnet new. The dear old parson preached of love. With eyes that gazed on realms above. But when he mentioned "Fair-I-see," I really thought he might mean me— Six summers only had I seen. And that excuses much, I ween, — He spoke of Mercy and of bhss; I thought of Mercy and of Pris. "The hand of Mercy giveth grace," — 'Twas true she fixed the flowers and lace, But somehow it seemed quite unfair To leave unmentioned Prissy's share, — So when he said, — thinking alone Of love divine to mankind shown,— With look intent and gesture neat That pointed straightway towards my seat, '' The hand of Mercy rested on it," — *'True!" cried I, "but Pris made the bonnet." [6s] Some Me mories If some one shall remind me that the name of the elder was not Mercy but Mehetabel, I shall answer in the spirit of an old colored mother who expressed surprise that she had named her little ebony baby Lily White, — ''She's jest Lily White to her ma, but you can call her Vi'let if you like." Apropos of making the name fit poetic demands I recall that when Kenoza lake was formally named in 1859, a local poet wrote some verses in honor of the event. Thinking that Kenoza was the Indian name for trout, he sang — " Tales of Kenosha, the trout, Swimming in thy depths about. In the beds of flag leaves deep, 'Mong the lily-pads asleep, — " but learning that the musical Indian word meant "lake of the pickerel," he restrung his lyre, and sang " Of the pickerel, Kenoza, Clear the gravelled bottom shows her, — a facile change, and a most ingenious rhyme. One old building of the near neighborhood ought not to go unsung, — the little schoolhouse which stood north of the Common and which until 1834 was the public one of the village. Over its threshold with ink-horn and book must have gone many a [66] Of Old Haverhill youth whose name is writ large in the history of the town, to be taught in the stern way of old the three R's, including ''stops and points, notes of affection and interrogation, accenting and Emphasizing," — this referring to nothing more sentimental or serious than reading. An early teacher of this school was Master Parker. He was as sharp of wit as he was quick of temper. To a father who had complained that he taught his son nothing he replied, ''Sir, I can instruct brains, but I cannot create them." " Old Master Parker's inky, oaken rule Sent terror through his tired, listless school As from his hand with lightning speed it flew, And left on luckless heads marks black and blue; Or, swift descending on the truant's back, Made every cringing nerve and muscle crack." Another master was one about whom "Dan" Carleton, an older brother of the late James H. Carleton, wrote, when he was a pupil, the squib, — " Old Doe's a very ugly man; He hcks his pupils all he can; May the good Lord shut off his breath Before he hcks us all to death." It certainly needed the Christian virtue of pa- tience to keep school in a building designed, as an early report said of this one, "to keep as large a Some Me movies number of pupils in as small a space as possible;" and the fact, also noted in an early report, that "three boys must sit together in each seat," did not make the master's task the easier. There were teachers here, however, who won by the gentler methods, — Greenwood, who died in 1841, as the school report said in his praise, "with the dew of youth fresh upon him, rendering his virtues the more fragrant;" Smiley, who had ever a train of youth following him, the genial book-seller later, and, later still, the third mayor of the city; Ham- mond, whose somewhat sterner rule was trans- ferred to the Winter street school; and Miss Ann Kimball, who was in her earlier years the model of primary teachers, and who reluctantly gave up her work only when, after long years of service, age stole from her the keenness of hearing and vision. After a full century-and-a-quarter of existence as a schoolhouse the building was moved in 1874 first to the corner of Locust and Winter streets, and being there unwelcome, to Primrose street. Like the house that "stood on the hill, — If it isn't gone, it stands there still." [68] Of Old Haverhill XVI One might teach almost the whole history of Haverhill in connection with the little triangle of land that never had an individual owner, so long known as the Common, but now — embellished and adorned — called City Hall Park, — the very centre and heart of the city. It lay in early times at the divergence of the Highway leading to Thomas Dus- ton^s mill (Main street) and the Highway leading to ye West Bridge (Winter street). The first meet- ing house of the town was built in 1648 "on the lower knoll of the Mill lot," — that is, on the knoll that rises from Water street in Pentucket Cemetery. The second meeting house was built, after much and bitter discussion, in 1698-9, in this little Common, and placed nearly opposite where Pleas- ant street enters Winter street. The land south- west of the Common was the property of Captain John Wainwright, and his house, on the site of the present City Hall, became in 1781 the possession of Joseph Harrod, and was kept as an inn called from the painting on its sign-board. The Masons^ Arms. A long tract of land on the east of the Common be- longed to Samuel Emerson. This land with the house and barn was bought in 1700 by the Reverend Benjamin Rolfe for fifty pounds of silver. After [69l Some Me movies the massacre of Rolfe the town bought the estate as a parsonage. The new church had been built ten years when, early on the morning of August 29, 1708, just as daylight first flushed the east, the dis- charge of John Keezars' gun and the blood-curdling yells of the Indians on their murderous foray aroused the inhabitants. The savages scattered over the little village, killing the minister Rolfe in his house, burning, murdering in fiendish fury, and taking flight before the sun was fully risen, leaving not only grief for the sixteen victims slain but deep- er sorrow and fear for the captives borne away. Here in 1743 was hung the first bell in the town, one imported from London, and here a year later a whipping post and stocks were erected nearly opposite the present site of the Hotel Bartlett. In 1766 a new meeting house was built just north of the old one. The Common was the training field for the militia. From it marched one hundred and five minute men to the scene of action on the day that the news of the skirmishes at Lexington and Concord reached Haverhill. This number was almost half of the entire military force of the town. And that night, in terror lest the British should make an attack on Haverhill, the citizens, men, women and children, brought their goods packed to the Common, and in [70] Of Old Haverhill anxiety waited in readiness for flight at the first alarm. In the battle of Bunker Hill fifty-four of the thousand men engaged in the redoubt were from Haverhill. Here should be told the story of William Baker of Haverhill, to whose action the ride of Paul Revere was due. He was a youth of twenty, em- ployed in a distillery owned by Mr. Hill in Cole's Court, now Portland street, in Boston. A woman quartered with the Forty-Third British regiment went to this place and, being partially intoxicated, unwittingly communicated to the owner of the dis- tillery the design of the British to march to Con- cord. Baker volunteered to carry this information to General Warren. He passed the British guards and sentries and reached Warren's headquarters. There he gave the information to Adjutant Devens, General Warren being absent. Having performed this mission Baker proffered his further services, and to him was entrusted the duty of reaching Charlestown and having ready the horse on which Paul Revere made his historic ride. XVII George Washington, elected President of the United States March 4, 1789, and inaugurated on the 30th of April following, wished to become per- [71] Some Me mories sonally acquainted with the state of feeling towards the new government. He therefore visited New England in the autumn of that year, going as far east as Portsmouth. Colonel Tobias Lear, Wash- ington's secretary, who accompanied him on this journey was a native of Portsmouth, a graduate of Harvard College in 1783, and on terms of mutual affection and respect with his great chief. The citizens of Haverhill desired the President to visit them on the return journey, but hope and dis- appointment rapidly alternated until, on the after- noon of November 4, a solitary horseman rode frenziedly adown the street past the Common, blowing a trumpet and crying ''Washington is coming! Washington is coming!" The bell in the meeting-house steeple rang as never before, the children in the town school at the head of the Common were immediately dismissed, and every- one hurried forth. Soon Mr, Lear appeared, mounted on a white horse and followed by a carriage drawn by four white steeds, in which sat General Washington and Major Jackson. He re- mained over night at the Masons' Arms, rode through the village, and by his graciousness and pleasant compliments greatly honored the town. He reviewed the village militia, drawn up on Water street, before continuing his journey. The morn- [7*1 Of Old Haverhill ing after his arrival he crossed the river by the ferry opposite Kent street, leaving behind the town whose beauty he had praised and enriching her traditions by the memory of the courtesy of the Father of his Country. In honor of his visit Wash- ington square and Washington street received his name. The meeting-house on the Common saw the organization of the first Sunday school in the place, the inspiration of two ladies. Miss Gibson and Miss Pagett, of Charleston, South Carolina, who were then visiting Mrs. Atwood in the great house north of the Common. In the parlors of the Atwood house the Haverhill Benevolent Society was organized in January, 1818, through the in- fluence of these Southern guests. The town had used the church as its meeting place for many years without payment, but in 1827 the Parish decided to make charge for such use. The town refused to pay such charge, and hence- forth until the building of the Town Hall in 1847 held its meetings in various places, even as far dis- tant as the churches in the East and the West parishes. A controversy then arose between the town and the parish as to the ownership of the Common. This difference was settled in 1837 by the action of the town in buying the claim of the [73] Some Me movies parish to the land and laying it out as a common forever. For this release by the parish the town purchased as a site for their church the Marsh lot, north of the Common, paying for it S2,750. The vote of the parish, passed June 5, 1837, shows under what conditions the Common is held: — " Voted, That the Parish will sell, by quit-claim deed, to the Town of Haverhill, for the use of the Town, as an ornament- al common, not to be built on, the land of the Parish hereto- fore used as their meeting-house lot; reserving all the stone and brick on the same, on full and plain conditions, expressed in the deed, limiting the use of the said land for the purpose of an ornamental common, and providing for the said deed being void, and the land reverting to the Parish, if any building or buildings whatever, shall, either by the said town or any per- son or body, ever be placed or suffered to remain on said land, or on any of the said land situate between any part of the said land and the Marsh lot, so called, lying a few rods northerly of the land so deeded to the Town." The parish in the same year built a new church on the Marsh lot. This new edifice was destroyed by fire on January 1, 1847, despite the energy of the ladies in forming a line and passing the fire- buckets filled with water while the men looked on. The present church was then built, facing for many years the Common, but finally being turned to its present position. The Common to which the Town thus acquired complete title was a rough and uneven patch, with [74] Of Old Haverhill buttonwood trees upon it that had been planted by Judge Sargeant in 1790. In 1844 the ladies raised money for its grading and improvement, and in 1846 the elms that since have formed its arboreal beauty were set out. In this year the town scales were removed from it to a place south of the Common, neighboring to the old town pump — an institution dear to those who remember it and the iron gourd from which all drank its waters — that might have rilled as interestingly of the habits of the town and its people as did the one immortal- ized by Hawthorne. XVIII When the secession of the Southern states threw the shadow of the Civil War over the country, Haverhill prepared to render its service. In compli- ance with an order of Governor Andrew of Massa- chusetts, Captain Messer of the Hale Guards called a meeting of the company under his command, at the armory in the Town Hall, on January 23, 1861. When by roll call each member was asked if he was ready to respond to the summons of the Governor to defend the Union, every mother's son of them answered, "Yes!'' That summons came on April 19. The old guard, the surviving members of the [75 ] Some Me mories Haverhill Light Infantry, some of them veterans of the war of 1812, assembled to act as escort to the departing company. The firemen lent their pic- turesque presence to the procession, and the throng of citizens filled the walks. Thus accompanied the Hale Guards — Company G — marched in mid- afternoon to the Common. Alfred Kittredge there placed in the hands of the officers the sum of $1,500 — the gift of citizens — to be distributed to the men; Thomas F. Barr presented a beautiful silk flag; Dr. Raymond H. Seeley made an inspiring and patriotic address, bidding them in the name of their fellow-citizens ''God speed;" the Honorable George Cogswell brought them the message of cheer and blessing from Bradford; and then, the band playing patriotic airs, the whole concourse moved through Main and Merrimack and Washington streets to the railway station. There were cheers and tears, fer- vent prayers and fond farewells, and the playing of America by the band as the train moved oE. The tragedy of war had touched the town. The Tiger Engine Company honored the ten of its members who were in Company G by retaining them on the roll list, exempt from all assessments, and framing their names to be hung on the walls of its hall. When news of victory came, the boys built the bonfires of rejoicing in the wide spaces of Main [76] Of Old Haverhill street below the Common; when word of defeat came, the silence of gloom and sadness lay over the whole village. The name which the G. A. R. Post of Haverhill bears — Major How — is that of a hero who fell in the fearful six days fighting before Richmond. Henry Jackson How, killed June 30, 1862, by a musket ball in the breast, a graduate of Phillips ilcademy of Andover and of the class of 1859 of Harvard College, left to his native town the splen- did picture of pure manliness as well as the glorious memory of a fearless soldier. Tall, well-propor- tioned, blufT but hearty, the personification of truthfulness, he united kindness with firmness so flawlessly that he held love while he exacted obe- dience. ^'I did not come to this war hastily," he said; '^I counted the cost;" and his last words were, "I know I must die. I am willing to give up life in so good a cause. Let death come here on the field of battle, — it is more glorious so. And let me be wrapped in the flag given me by my dear friends in Haverhill." His sword is the precious possession of the Post that bears his name; his picture is there to bring back memories and arouse inspiration; but no re- cord of the Haverhill of his generation would be complete that did not bear, at least, in simple lines, [77] Some Me mories the story of his devotion and death. "So that the life he brave, what though not longV^ XIX For more than a full century and a quarter — from the time when Parson Rolfe bought from Samuel Emerson, in 1700, the house at the back door of which he was massacred, until Dr. Moses Nichols purchased the estate in 1831 — the success- ive ministers of the First Parish dwelt on the present site of the High School building. The house of the Indian tragedy of 1708 was torn down and a new parsonage erected in 1773. This later parsonage was the house so recently removed to make room for the school edifice. Its first occupant was one who had lived in the older house for thirty years, the Reverend Edward Barnard, pastor of the church from 1743 to 1774. More interesting than his scholarly and elegant sermons are the manuscripts of his which form a sort of a diary and shine like a little light on the customs and manners of his times. These manuscripts have now mysteriously disappeared but before their vanishing Miss Harriet O. Nelson fortunately examined them and made excerpts from them. From her delightful essay on [78] Of Old Haverhill this Old-Time Haverhill Minister I borrow the fol- lowing paragraphs: — "Two other manuscripts comprise what is called 'an ac- count of benefactions' for ten years beginning with 1762, and is a careful list of gifts received, with the donors' names, many of which are still familiar in this vicinity. The record of good things makes one's mouth water, even after this lapse of time. There are beef and veal, geese and turkeys, and a long procession of 'roasting pigs,' while the return of spring never failed to bring salmon, 'shadd' and Tickarel' of the 'first catching.' At Thanksgiving time it might be said of this good and gifted parson as of Chaucer's Franklin — 'It snewed in hj^ house of meat and drink.' Then came turkeys, pigeons and geese, bisket and oranges, 'Mince pye,' 'cranbrie tart and fine pudding,' with no end of 'sparrib.' On another occasion there are sent from 'Mrs. Ayer, lady of ancient Deacon, a cheese new, part of an old cheese, and Diet Bread to assist in the entertainment of our quilters,' while again, generous soul, she is credited with 'cabbage, spare-rib, chop of Bacon, Turnips, small legg of Pork,' and still again, 'Half old sheep.' Gifts of brandy, rum and 'cyder' show that the days of prohibition had not dawned, while pipes and tobacco are not unmentioned. Nor were the donations confined to supplies for the inner man. One was after this wise: 'Mrs. Sally McHard, genteel toothpicks to myself and lady,' while a rather puzzHng memo- randum runs thus: 'Mr. Marsh, tutor at college, half a ticket to my wife, 3 dollars.' A new saddle from nine donors is men- tioned in impressive capitals, but the smallest favors seem always to be noticed, such as an orange or two now and then, or'a Mugg from Mrs. Steele and a httle Mugg to Sally from her negro girl, Kate.' The minister occasionally acknowledges the free use of a chaise for a visit to Andover, Chester, or even remote Boston. The somewhat promiscuous character of these 'benefactions' reminds us not a httle of Barkis's offerings of affection to Peg- [79] Some Me mories gotty, — 'a double set of pig's trotters, a huge pin-cushion, half a bushel or so of apples, a box of dominoes, some Spanish onions, a canary bird and cage, and a leg of pickled pork.' Certain brothers Gary were evidently good geniuses of the Barnard household. Brother Richard Gary is credited on one occasion with the gift of 'six gallons of Rum,' and 'Brother Daniel Gary, quam plurima.' Again there is acknowleged from the Reverend Thomas Gary 'a gown for my son Nedd, one side fine Plaid, other handsome Galliminco.' Oh, if we could only have a picture of Master Nedd on his first appear- ance in that smart new garment and find out its precise cut! If his younger brother felt any envy of Master Nedd's finery, perhaps he was consoled by a gift from Mr. Osgood of two chickens and some gray squirrels.' " As a foil for the smile caused by the quaint gift to Master Nedd, comes a tear for his death. This lovely boy, Edward, born December 3, 1747, died September 6, 1752, not quite five years old. The father, ''a grave, meek, peace-loving man," saddened by his bereavement, thought perhaps of the beau- tiful Greek youth stricken in his beauty, imaged in the brook as was his son in his heart. So he wrote the following touching and beautiful poem : — .NARCISSUS Narcissus was a lovely boy, Around his parents smiled, Added to every rising joy. And all their cares beguiled. [80] Of Old Haverhill Health sat upon his smiling cheek, Life sparkled in his eye, Genius conspired in what he spake To raise our prospects high. So have I seen the infant rose Beneath the genial ray Its blushing beauties half disclose, And gladden every day. Anon I hear the stormy wind, Cold night attends its shades; Withers the flower with head inclined, Its blushing beauties fade. No more to me the spring appears To bless the teeming earth; No more the birds salute my ears To hail the fruitful birth. The plants in ample order rise, Exult in various forms; — But in the grave Narcissus lies, Nor seeks my longing arms. The sense in mournful strains repines, But faith corrects my tongue ; Truth in my breast serenely shines, And thus inspires the song. When heavenly souls by death forsake This frail, obscure abode. Upward an active flight they take, And find their rest with God. [8l] Some Me mories There bright as cherubim, they stand Before their Savior's face; A verdant palm shall fill each hand, And crown each temple's grace. No more of pain or thirst they know Through everlasting years! My God commands the streams to flow, And wipes the falling tears. XX When the first Catalogue of the Officers and Students of Haverhill Academy appeared in 1827, printed on a single large sheet of pink paper, the name of John G. Whittier appeared in the list of pupils, and the name of Miss Arethusa Hall ap- peared as Preceptress. She who was Whittier's teacher for a brief while, filled the measure of Words- worth's description of a perfect woman in She was a phantom of delight. The record of her long life reminds me of Ben Jonson's lines, — " Where'er she went the flowers took thickest root. As she had sow'd them with her odorous foot, — and the flowers were religious thoughtfulness, in- tellectual culture, sympathy, compassion, love. One of her pupils wrote in the old fashion of the acrostic this picture of her : — [82] Of Old Haverhill " Mark you that lady who, with gracious air, Instructs the young committed to her care? See how by firmness and benignity She brings all hearts to own her sovereignty. Happy indeed are those who travel on, Attaining knowledge with her benison! Love guards her action, duty points the way : Long may she live to exercise her sway." This prayer for her long life was granted, for, born in 1802, she was released from earth in 1890. No worthy picture of her exists. Tall, stately, gracious, ''her noble spirit shining in her noble face," she wrought with ceaseless activity and in all the fields of woman's work from the humble household duties to the writing of books. " Queen of the tub, I merrily sing While the white foam rises high, And sturdily wash and rinse and wring, And fasten the clothes to dry ; And out in the free, fresh air they swing, Under the summer sky." Two months before her death she wrote me a delightful letter describing the school and the town when she came to Haverhill in 1827: — " Some days before the opening of the academy I went to Haverhill, and was received at the house of Madam Duncan, a lady of the old school of gentility, whose home was a model of neatness, order, and the elegance of the day. Her son [83] Some Me movies whom I had met resided with her and was then unmarried. Here I remained a few days until a permanent boarding place was found for me. This proved to be the home of the vener- able Mrs. Atwood, mother of the lamented Harriet Newell, wife of one of the missionaries to India. The dedication of the new academy soon took place with much ceremony, the principal citizens of the town taking great interest in the new institution. The school consisted of two departments, one for young men and the other for young ladies, each having a distinct head. The apartments for the two were on the same floor, separated by the entrance hall. The whole school assembled in my room for morning prayer. In the male department I recollect John G. Whittier, who about that time by his poetical effusions had awakened the interest of some of the best educated citizens. He was an earnest student and attracted much notice, young ladies think- ing it an honor to receive contributions from his pen for their albums I remember with pleasure the polite attentions I received from the cultivated society of Haverhill. In all my later teaching I recall no place where social intercourse was so enjoyable." The second preceptress of the Academy, Miss Mary Cranch Norton of Sharon, has left in her correspondence some bright and delightful glimpses of the Academy. She describes the meeting of the young ladies and young gentlemen for morning worship : — " After the young ladies were seated, oh, how I shrunk with- in myself when the sound as of a mighty rushing wind an- nounced the approach of the cavalcade, and they all entered to the number of thirty-three, and Mr. Carleton (the Preceptor; brought up the rear. To complete the tragedy he ascendea my throne where two large arm chairs are placed, one ot [84] Of Old Haverhill which I occupied, and seated himself at my right hand, and there we sat in that conspicuous situation facing the whole assembly." In the important place that she was called to fill Miss Norton felt the weight of the responsibilities, and her letters betray a difiidence and shrinking that were due alone to her inexperience. Her sweet presence, sprightliness of wit and tender womanli- ness won the love and loyalty of all her pupils. She became in 1830 the wife of Col. Jacob How, and lived thenceforth in the old Atwood house in Cres- cent Place which was torn down in 1872 to make place for the High School building then erected. XXI The Academy became a free High School in 1841, but it was not established as such without the op- position of those who deprecated the expense. When Mr. Train was advocating in one of the town meetings a liberal appropriation for its support, one of the prominent citizens rose to move "as an economical measure that the town appropriate a sufficient sum to remove Mr. Train from the town." The statue of The Thinker that stands before the new High School is the tribute of a pupil, Mrs. Emma Gale Harris, to the memory of a long time [8s] Some Me mories master of the school, Joseph A. Shores. From 1856 until 1872 he governed the destinies of the school by ideals that sought high character, scholarship and manly development. Back of his modesty there was much firmness, and when necessity arose he could use the rod. A rash and daring but brilliant pupil who was in the later years of his too short life the mayor of the city and its most popular citizen, once in the midst of a long morning prayer by Mr. Shores drew a pistol from his pocket and fired it. The prayer did not halt, the master's tone was even and reverent, but his eyes opened for a brief moment to note the criminal. But when the morning services had been concluded the master drew a stout ferrule from his desk and flogged into the future head of the city a feeling sense of his offence. "So much of a man as I am," said the victim in later years, "that whipping made me," — and between master and pupil there was ever afterwards mutual love and respect. When I was a pupil in this school it was part of the discipline of the boys that each should declaim once every fortnight in the presence of a roomful of scholars. The most of us would rather have faced a band of Modocs than the unsympathetic, grin- ning host who formed our audience. At least three gestures were required, one with the right hand, [86] Of Old Haverhill one with the left, and a full sweeping gesture with both hands. I have always envied the assurance of the youth who dumbly made the required ges- tures immediately after his bow, and then, the demanded gymnastics having been completed, re- cited the declamation that he had memorized. A long-limbed boy who was also a wit, said that it was unfair to the legs to give all action to the arms. So he prepared a declamation with appropriate action as follows : — " He looked to the right, " a kick with the right foot; " He looked to the left, " a kick with the left foot; " And he saw Phin Davis pursuing; " a rush with both feet to his seat. How odd it is, though years have sped, To feel the same old shivery dread As when in halcyon schooldays past My turn for public speaking came. I hear the master call my name; The long aisle stretching out before, Up which my fettered feet must go. Seems endless; and the billowy floor Shows threatening dangers, as of yore. With face that, like an oriflamme, [87I Some Me mories A flag of dread and terror flies, I make my bow and raise my eyes; I've reached the platform, — here I am; No less reluctant than before. When I the schoolboy's burden bore, And told in stammering, sing-song way, How Bingen's soldier dying lay; Or, fired with the dramatic story, Declaimed Bozzaris' deed of glory; Or took a more triumphant tone In Warren's " Stand, the ground's your own!' — And, having thus announced my text, Failed to recall what lines came next. For the dedication of the Haverhill Academy, April 30, 1827, Whittier wrote an ode that was sung to the air, Pillar of Glory. When I wrote the history of this school I was desirous of including this poem. As it was not then to be found in any of the volumes of his verse I asked him if he would furnish me a copy. With a smile he replied, ''No, and I hope thee'll not be able to find it, either." He told, however, the story of the event. *'I had written some verses," he said, ''which had been printed in the newspapers, and the committee who had direction of the occasion invited me to write an original poem for the dedication of the Academy. They also invited the "Rustic Bard," Robert Dins- more, an old Scotch farmer living in Windham, to read some verses . On the day of the dedication [88] Of Old Haverhill a procession was formed to march through the streets of the town to the new building, and the honor of leading it was given to the two poets. The old Scotchman was very short and red-faced, with long white hair, and a very uncertain gait due to a very generous draught of Scotch Whiskey be- fore we started. I was a tall and slender Quaker lad, in a Quaker hat and a Quaker coat, — and frightened out of half my wits. A grotesque pair we must have been, but we delivered our verses all right. It was at this time, I think, that the name of ''Quaker Poet" was given me." XXII It is characteristic of men as they grow older to become eulogists of the past — the twilight gives a golden glow — , but, with all due respect to the present, I remember with gratitude and delight the plain living and high thinking that characterized the Haverhill of my boyhood and early manhood. The purity of character, the culture and refinement of the pupils who were my schoolmates in the old high school, the high aim of the teachers and the faithful supervision of the scholarly and dignified members of the school board, are to me full com- pensation for what may have been lacking of mo- [89] Some Me m,orie dern equipment, laboratory method and special- ization in teaching. The compliment paid to Haverhill by Matthew Arnold more than twenty years ago, when he characterized it as one of the two most cultured places that he had visited in the United States, was not undeserved. The traditions of Haverhill recall a succession of men of worth and women of high breeding who gave to the town and maintained for it the foundations and the reputat- tion of a scholarly and refined community. Its first high school bears now the name of that one of its pupils, Whittier, who gave the consecration of the poet's dream to the familiar scenes, river and lake and woodland stretch, to legend and story and the simple home life. The second building rose where once had stood the home of Harriet Atwood Newell, the missionary; in whose rooms the first Sunday school was organized, and the first charit- able society formed; where Arethusa Hall resided, and Mary Cranch Norton lived her too brief life. The third building covers historic ground, and no pupil who enters its doors should be ignorant of the holy and scholarly story of the place of its location. Not alone by the blood of the minister Rolfe is that ground sanctified, not alone by the devotion and scholarship of his successors, but by the in- spiring life of that aunt of President John Quincy [9°] Of Old Haverhill Adams who dwelt there, of whom her nephew said: ''If the Protestant Church tolerated canonization, she would have deserved to stand among the fore- most in the calendar." That a future President of the United States was fitted for the senior class in Harvard College in the old house removed to make place for this latest high school building, should be an inspiration to the boys, but in the character, scholarship and influence of the aunt in whose family he studied may be found an example and model for pupils and teachers alike. ''Elizabeth Smith, sister of Mrs. Abigail Adams and wife of the Reverend John Shaw, was a very superior being. Cultured and refined, she did not neglect the at- tractions of dress, and her whole appearance was attractive. Of great beauty, dignity and stateli- ness, wearing an elaborate and queenly headdress, the most accomplished woman of the little world wherein she lived, she yet was faithful to the common duties and the requirements of a poor clergyman's wife. She aided her solitary maid in her work, attended to the clothing and mended the stcckings and minded the appearance of the little boys in the family, and, far from being above work, gave to it that dignity and fidelity that 'makes drudgery divine.' " She made frequent visits to Boston, meet- ing there the best societv, and bringing back to the [91] Some Me mories rural town the news, the culture and refinement of the city, and its latest fashions as well. Over the students in her family she tenderly and carefully watched. They idolized her. Everything con- nected with her lifted them up to something purer and better, and even when they left her immediate care she followed them by her correspondence, giv- ing them needed advice, precious from such a source. She always turned the conversation at table and elsewhere to instructive themes, and, familiar with the best in literature, with Shake- speare and Addison and Pope, she drew by her conversation her household to the very fountains of the best English thought and expression. It was the custom of her time to hold protracted meetings in aid of spiritual revival for three or four successive days, and at these all the ministers of the surrounding towns were gathered, their families with them. As few events but death caused a change of pastorate, the clergymen and their fami- lies became intimate with one another, and so rare a woman as Mrs. Shaw was held in high esteem by all. When her husband died in 1791, she had many suitors. Among these was the Reverend Stephen Peabody of Atkinson. As a widower he had consulted Mrs. Shaw about a new wife. ''What kind of a woman do you want?" she asked. m' Of Old Haverhill "Oh, one just like yourself," was the gallant and sincere reply. Soon afterwards Mr. Peabody mounted his horse and was riding to visit the woman recommended, when he heard of the death of Mrs. Shaw's husband. He immediately turned his horse and went home. Other suitors were his rivals, the most energetic being the Reverend Isaac Smith, a cousin of Mrs. Shaw's, and the pre- ceptor of Byfield Academy. On one very rainy night each of these suitors, supposing that the storm would keep his rival at home, rode to call on Mrs. Shaw to lay at her feet himself and all his prospects. But Mr. Smith had to ride fifteen miles while Mr. Peabody had to ride only six, and so when the more remote suitor reached her door he was met by her quaint servant with the greeting, ''You are too late, sir. Parson Peabody has long ago dried his coat by the kitchen fire, and has been sitting with Mrs. Shaw a whole hour in the parlor." And Parson Smith rode back the [fifteen jhopeless miles, and thereafter to the day of his death lived single and never smiling. XXIII The young John Quincy Adams came to the scholarly atmosphere of Parson Shaw's home from [93] Some Me movies a most unusual training. Born in July, 1767, he was not eleven years old when he accompanied his father, the first President Adams, on a state mission to France. In the seven years following he re- ceived not alone the instruction of the best Euro- pean schools but the education and culture that came from association with the best minds in France, Holland and Russia, and with such men, much older than himself, as Franklin and Jefferson. When the duties of his father carried him to Eng- land it was the son's choice that brought him home to enter the household of his aunt and prepare for the senior class of Harvard College. Here he came in the spring of 1785 and remained until March, 1786, when he entered the Harvard class of 1787. Immediately after graduation he went to Newburyport to study law in the office of Theo- philus Parsons, later Chief Justice of the Supreme Court of Massachusetts, and in the two years' stay there his visits to Haverhill were frequent. His diary kept in those years has been published under the title Life in a New England Town, 1787, 1788, and in this are many entries relating to Haverhill. He was a welcome and frequent guest in the houses of Judge Sargeant and Sheriff Bartlett and ' 'Mar- chant" White, and his classmate, Leonard White, the son of "Mar chant" White and the brother of t94] Of Old Haverhill Mrs. Bartlett, was his intimate friend. His moth- er's cousin, John Thaxter, who had been the private secretary of his father in Europe and his own tutor, was practicing law in Haverhill, and young Adams enjoyed his companionship. It is to this Mr. Thax- ter that the following entry in his diary refers. Mr. Thaxter was then a bachelor, but married a few weeks later Elizabeth Duncan. — " ( Oct. ) 22d ( 1787 ). At twelve we went to Mr. Thaxter's lodgings, and found fifty or sixty people heartily at work, in which we very readily joined them. At about two there were eighteen or twenty left, who sat down to a table covered with *big-bellied bottles.' For two hours or more Bacchus and Momus joined hands to increase the festivity of the company; but the former of these deities then of a sudden took a fancy to divert himself and fell to tripping up their heels. Momus laughed on, and kept singing until he grew hoarse and drowsy; and Morpheus, to close the scene, sprinkled a few poppies over their heads, and set them to snoring in concert. By five o'clock they were aU under the table except those who had been pecuharlycautious and two or three stout topers. I had been very moderate, yet felt it necessary to walk and take the air. I rambled with Leonard White over the fields and through the street till near seven o'clock. Then I went home with him and,after passing a couple of hours in chat, retired quite early to bed. " Mr. Adams in this diary pays high tribute to his friend Leonard White, who was a Member of Congress, 1811-1813, and for twenty-five years cashier of the Merrimack Bank. [95] Some Me mories XXIV To one son of Haverhill the mother town has given many proofs of her love and abiding remem- brance. The old farmhouse where John Greenleaf Whittier was born and where he lived through his boyhood and early manhood, is kept as a shrine to his memory; the old academy building where he at- tended school bears his name; his portrait hangs in the Public Library and in every schoolhouse; the **Whittier Collection" of his works, first editions and the literature about him, is one of the treasures of the Library, also; a Whittier Club twice yearly holds meetings in his memory, one meeting being at the scene of Snow-Bound in the month of June, the other observing the day of his birth. When I was a high school boy of fourteen or fifteen, I remember going one day into Smiley's bookstore and seeing a tall, spare man bending over the counter of books; and the friendly owner of the store called me to him, and said, **Do you know Mr. Whittier, the poet? and have you seen this new poem of his?" — and he opened before me Snow-Bound. I went home not feeling the earth. I had seen a poet; I had felt the clasp of the hand that wrote the poems that I was de- claiming, Barbara Frietchie, Ein Feste Burg i9t [96] Of Old Haverhill Unser Gott, and the triumphant Laus Deo. And my mother told me then in what an enchante land I was living; that to the river which daily I saw sparkling beyond the apple orchards, to the hills which bounded my horizon, to the old legends and stories of familiar places he had given " The light that never was on sea or land; The consecration and the poet's dream." In the plain old farmhouse that now enshrines the memory of the poet and the old New England life depicted in Snow-Bound there had lived, be- fore the birth of the poet, four generations of his ancestors of the simple confidence, the plain life and the pure spirituality of the Quaker faith, be- ginning with Thomas Whittier who came from Eng- land in the good ship Confidence, and built this house fifty years later. The family seems to have originated in an old town eighteen miles from Shrewsbury, England, where an ancient white lime- stone church gave its name to the hamlet. White- church, and also to its most prominent family. Then by mutations and changes in spelling the family name became first Whitchur in pronuncia- tion and later Whittier in spelling. I like best to approach this old house by the way described in ''Telling the Bees, — [97] Some Me mories '' Here is the place; right over the hill Runs the path I took ; You can see the gap in the stone wall still, And the stepping stones in the shallow brook. There is the house, with the gate red-barred, And the poplars tall; And the barn's brown length, and the cattle-yard, And the white horns tossing above the wall. There are the beehives ranged in the sun; — " through the gap in the old stone wall, across the little brook by the stepping stones, along the path leading from the brookside through the old-fash- ioned garden where still in season bloom the old- tim.e flowers, hollyhock, London pride, sweet rocket, bluebells, low-growing pansies and lavender and mint, — " And the same rose blows, and the same'sun glows, And the same brook sings as in years ago. " XXV Mr. Alfred Ordway, whose artistic pictures of Whittier's home gave great delight to the poet, in showing me a picture of the west door of the house which we reach by the garden path, illustrating the lines from The Barefoot Boy, — [98] Of Old Haverhill " Oh for festal dainties spread Like my bowl of milk and bread; Pewter spoon and bowl of wood On the doorstep, gray and rude, " — said that be should have colored the boy's blouse red if he had not known that Quakers object to this vivid color. But Whittier, being color-blind, would not have been disturbed by this brightness. When he was a boy his mother sent him into the neighboring fields to pick wild strawberries, but he was unable to distinguish the ripe berries from the green leaves. It was to the farmer's boy, physically delicate, fond of reading but with few volumes to gratify his taste in this old home, that his first school-master, Joshua Coffin, brought a volume of Burns' poems, — a magic gift that broke through the stern envi- ronment and reached the fountains of song within him. It was Bonnie Boon and The Cottar^s Saturday Night and A Man^s a Man for A' That and Mary Morrison and To Mary in Heaven that reached and touched him. The tribute, prompted by the gift of a sprig of heather from the land of Burns, which Whittier paid to the Scotch poet is one of his tenderest poems, the tribute of the heart to one to whom he owed much, to whom he gave gratitude and love, and for whose frailties he [99] Some Me mories implored — as did the blessed Master for all man- kind — charity and forgiveness. "Let those who never erred forget His worth, in vain bewailings; Sweet Soul of Song! I own my debt Uncancelled by his faihngs! Lament who will the ribald line Which tells his lapse from duty, How kissed the maddening lips of wine Or wanton ones of beauty; But think, while falls that shade between The erring one and Heaven, That he who loved like Magdalen, Like her may be forgiven. Not his the song whose thunderous chime Eternal echoes render; The mournful Tuscan's haunted rhyme, And Milton's starry splendor! But who his human heart has laid To Nature's bosom nearer? Who sweetened toil like him, or paid To love a tribute dearer? Through all his tuneful art how strong The human feeHng gushes! The very moonlight of his song Is warm with smiles and blushes!" ''How do things come to thee?" asked Whittier one day of a friend who was a writer of stories; [lOo] Of Old Haverhill "Do they come in pictures?" And when she said that they did, "So they come to me," he remarked. Whittier told his friend Rantoul of the embarass- ments that grew out of his limited vocabulary. He said that in the white heat of literary production words failed him to such an extent that he was sometimes in terror lest the vision that he saw so completely should vanish before it could be fixed on paper. His conception seemed to come to him on fire with impatience, like some evangel which he must perforce deliver to mankind, but his supply of words was meagre and inadequate, and his fear lest the impassioned thought escape him unrecorded was at times most painful. Much of his work was composed fragmentarily on the backs of letters, leaves torn from some old account book, stray pieces of vagrant paper, — unfinished stanzas, parts of lines, bits of composition, to be wrought into a complete whole after many attempts and with unceasing pains. Often as Whittier walked the familiar ways he was so absorbed in his pictures that he did not, or would not, break the line of thought to speak to ac- quaintances. An acquaintance once jestingly ac- cused him of "cutting" her on the street, and with his sweet smile he replied, "Thee is right. There are only two people here that I never fail to see," — [lOl] Some Me movies and he mentioned two old men, both poor and one a cripple. The anonymous tribute of an Amesbury friend expresses the love and pride in which he was held by his neighbors : — " I say it softly to myself, I whisper it to the swaying flowers, When he goes by ring all j^our bells Of perfume, ring, for he is ours. Ours is the resolute, firm step, Ours the dark lightning of the eye, The rare, sweet smile, and all the joy Of ownership, when he goes by. I know above our simple spheres His fame has flown, his genius towers; These are for glory and the world, But he himself is only ours. " XXVI There comes to me the remembrance of a cold, clear day in December, 1891, his last birthday on earth, when a little company of friends went to call on him at the home of his cousin, Mrs. Cartland, in Newburyport. He came into the room to greet them with that modesty that made Holmes call him "the wood thrush of Essex," and with a dignity and serenity that touched us all into silence. The face was like alabaster through which an inward light [102] Of Old Haverhill shone, the eyes like a benediction, the voice like music from the Isles of Peace. Amid the gifts from near and far, the messages of remembrance and love from the honored and the great, his heart turned to his own, the friends from his native town, and he spoke with deep feeling: "It is said that a prophet is not without honor save in his own country and in his own house, but I have been signally honored by my dear townspeople." When, a year later, the snows lay over his grave and the people of Haverhill assembled in their pub- lic hall to do his memory honor, there came an unexpected guest whose presence demanded a place in the programme for which no provision had been made. It was soon arranged that this bardic guest, the last of the Hutchinsons, be allowed to choose his own part. When he was introduced he rose in all the majesty of his old age, with long white beard and flowing locks and flashing eyes, and sang as an old bard might have done that trumpet cry of the poet's that takes as its title the words of Luther's hymn, Ein feste Burg ist unser Gott. It brought back the Whittier of the flashing eye and the warring spirit, whose verse was mighty and eloquent in denouncing evil, and whose pen was the weapon with which he smote Wrong. [103] Some Me movies XXVII At the celebration of the two-hundred-and- fiftieth anniversary of the settlement of Haverhill, in 1890, I had the honor of reading the poem, Haverhill^ which Whittier had written for the occasion. As he was too feeble to attend the exer- cises he invited me to come to Oak Knoll and read the poem to him. On that delightful visit he spoke particularly of the rhythm, ''We poets," said he, "might as well write prose if the melody of our lines is not kept." Although he was very deaf he was a most delightful listener to my reading of this poem and of some others that he desired me to read, and he rewarded me by a very pleasant compliment, naively adding, ''The lines sound very well; doesn't thee think so." Of those who took part in the formal literary ex- ercises of that anniversary — though it seems but as yesterday — I alone am living. If I read the dear lines well it was because there was love in my heart for the old town, a love that gave full mean- ing and earnestness to the prayer of the poet : — " Adrift on Time's returnless tide As waves that follow waves, we glide. God grant we leave upon the shore Some waif of good it lacked before. [104] Of Old Haverhill Some seed, or flower, or plant of worth, Some added beauty to the earth; Some larger hope, some thought to make The sad world happier for its sake. As tenants of uncertain stay, So may we live our Uttle day That only grateful hearts shall fiU The homes we leave in Haverhill. The singer of a f areweU rhyme, Upon whose outmost verge of time The shades of night are faUing down, I pray, God bless the good old town ! [los] 7 H 88 78 ^>^^' Deacidified using the Bookkeeper process. 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