Glass .-TS W^ "? Book »N 4- GopyiigM°_ COPYRIGHT DEPOSFT WHITIN MACHINE WORKS WHITINSVILLE, MASS. Manufacturers of TEXTILE MACHINERY ~* WHITIN PLAIN LOOM Pickers, Cards, Combers, Drawing Frames, Roving Frames, Spinning Frames, Spoolers, Twisters, Reels, Quillers, Plain, Fancy and Duck Looms, Worsted Roving Frames; and Cotton Waste Machinery. STUART W. CRAMER, Charlotte, N. C. Southern Agent HOW TO UNRAVEL KINKS IN HUMID1FICATION WRITE TO THE American Moistening Company 120 Franklin Street, Boston, Mass. William Firth, President Frank B. Comins, Vice-Prest. and Treas Over 1000 users of our system bear testimony to the Superiority and Efficiency of our equipments. UNIVERSALLY ADOPTED THROUGHOUT THE SOUTH . Our COMINS SECTIONAL HUMIDIFIERS. Our FAN TYPE and HIGH DUTY HUMIDIFIERS. Our VENTILATING TYPE OF HUMIDIFIERS (Taking fresh air into the room from the outside) Our ATOMIZER or COMPRESSED AIR SYSTEM. Our COMPRESSED AIR-CLEANING SYSTEM. Our CONDITIONING ROOM EQUIPMENT. Our AUTOMATIC HUMIDITY CONTROL (Can be applied to systems already installed). Our AUTOMATIC TEMPERATURE CONTROL Are ALL STANDARD OF MODERN TEXTILE MILL EQUIPMENT. SOUTHERN OFFICE 811 Empire Building Atlanta, Georgia Emmons Loom Harness Co LAWRENCE, MASS. LEADING MANUFACTURERS OF LOOM HARNESS AND REEDS COTTON HARNESS for all kinds of Plain and Fancy Weaves in Cotton Linen and Silk goods. MAIL HARNESS for Duck, Worsted, Silk, and Woolen Goods. SELVEDGE HARNESS 18 to 24 inches deep, for weaving Tape Selvedges. REEDS for Cotton, Woolen, Silk, and Duck. SLASHER and STRIKING COMBS. WARPER and LEICE REEDS, BEAMER and DRESSER HECKS, JACQUARD HEDDLES, MENDING EYES and TWINE. BAKED ENGLISH HARNESS AND JACQUARD HEEDLES for Weaving Soft and Hard Silks. GARLAND LOOM HARNESSES AND RAWHIDE LOOM PICKERS Are Always Stamped With This Trade-Mark Send for Our New No. 5 Illustrated Catalogue GARLAND MANUFACTURING CO, SACO, MAINE FAST SULPHUR COLORS BLACK BLUE CUTCH GREEN KHAKI U. S. GOVERNMENT TESTS MANUFACTURED 9Y E. C. KLIPSTEIN & SONS CO. SOUTH CHARLESTON, WEST VIRGINIA SOLE AGENTS AND DISTRIBUTORS A. KLIPSTEIN & CO, 644 GREENWICH STREET NEW YORK NORTHROP LOOMS Trade-Mark Registered Twisters Spoolers Warpers Reels Balling Machines Banding Machines Mirror Spinning Rings Trade-Mark Registered U. S. Patent Office Dutcher Temples Trade-Mark Registered U. S, Patent Office Rabbeth Centrifugal Clutch Spindles Rhoades- Chandler Separators Moscrop Single Thread Yarn Testers and other Patented improvements in Cotton Machinery Draper Corporation HOPEDALE MASSACHUSETTS Southern Office 188 South Forsyth Street Atlanta Georgia PRACTICAL LOOM FIXING By THOMAS NELSON Director Textile Department, North Carolina State College of Agriculture and Engineering West Raleigh, N. C. Copyrighted 1917 by Thomas Nelson T£ /49 s PREFAGE The writer of this book hopes that it will be of some help to those who are interested in the construction and fixing of looms. Thomas Nelson West Raleigh, N. C. \V NOV 24 1917 ©CLA477733 w PRACTICAL LOOM FIXING BY THOMAS NELSON V^ CHAPTER I Plain Looms. For fabrics, such as sheetings, print cloths, lawns, mulls and other / W fabrics that are woven on two harness shafts, the plain loom is used. ^4. This loom has the shedding cams on the bottom shaft in the loom and J_>only fabrics that are made with two harness shafts can be made on same. When fabrics such as drills, denims, hickory stripes or twill goods have to be made, the same loom can be used with the addition of ^-~ an auxiliary shaft to carry the shedding cams, the cams being driven jj* from the bottom shaft in the loom. Plain looms are divided into two classes, viz., regular plain looms and automatic looms. The foundation for all plain looms is practically sj the same, the only essential difference being the automatic attachment for transferring bobbins or shuttles. The various movements of a loom are usually divided into two divisions, principal and auxiliary movements, the principal movements being considered as the shedding, picking, and beating up movements. All the movements must work in unison with each other if the best results are to be obtained from the loom. The movements may be itemized as follows: 1, shedding motion; 2, picking motion; 3, beating up the filling; 4, let-off motion; 5, take-up motion; 6, filling stop motion; 7, warp stop motion; 8, protector motion. In ad- dition to these there is the tape selvage motion, used on twill and sateen goods; temples, lease rods. Shedding Motion. Fig. 1 is a sketch of a shedding motion for plain fabrics, also lay cap, reed, lay and lay sword of the beating-up motion. The ends for a plain fabric are drawn through the harness from back to front, begin- ning from the right hand side. As one harness is raised and the other lowered, the ends are opened and make what is known as the "shed," through which the shuttle travels with the filling, hence the motion to obtain this separating of the ends is known as the shedding motion. Names of Parts. — A, is the harness roll on which are the collars B. B. Each collar is of two sizes, one being about one-eighth to one- iourth of an inch larger than the other. C, the harness straps connecting collar to harness D. E, jack stick; F, jack strap connecting harness to treadle G. H, treadle ball; I, shedding cams; K, fulcrum of treadles. Setting Shedding Motion. When starting up a new warp there are two conditions which it is aboslutely necessary to consider, otherwise a shed of sufficient size for the shuttle to pass through cannot be obtained. These two con- ditions are first, collar on harness roll; second, the shedding cams. The collar is of two distinct sizes, one being larger than the other. The shedding cams also are of two sizes, one being larger than the other. Each collar must be arranged so that the strap on largest part will be connected to back harness and the shedding cams must be set so that the largest cam will also operate the back harness. If either of these two conditions are not strictly carried out, the shed for one pick will be larger than the shed for the next pick. The reasons for this connecting of the harness to the harness roll and treadles can 10 Practical Loom Fixing more readily be explained on reference to Fig. 1. The shed is formed from the fell of cloth, (fell of cloth is last pick of filling put in cloth), the harness and lease rods. The back harness being farther away from the fell of cloth has to travel a greater distance than the front harness in order to make the same size of shed for the shuttle to pass through, Figure 1. Practical Loom Fixing 11 consequently that harness is connected to the largest cam. Also the back harness being connected to the treadle nearer the fulcrum, it is necessary that the treadle move a greater distance to compensate for Figure 2. 12 Practical Loom Fixing this. The front harness, not having to move as far, is therefore, operat- ed by the smallest shedding cam. With the harness roll and the shedding cams in their correct posi- tions and the harness connected up, all parts of the shedding motion should be level when the harness are crossing each other. When the cams are level, the treadles should also be level and the treadle balls in con- tact with the cams, the harness should be level and the harness roll should be level. Not only should the front and back har- ness be level but the ends of the harness should also be level, that is, one end should not be lower than the other. The harness roll should be level so that when the harness are open, the straps will not lap under each other. Fig. 1, on page 10, illustrates a good set- ting of the shedding motion. It will be no- ticed that the harness straps operate per- fectly on the collar, there not being any underlapping of the straps. The front har- ness is just low enougb to prevent chafing of the ends by the for- ward and backward movement of the lay and the treadle balls are in contact with the shedding cams. Fig. 2, on page 11, illustrates a very faul- ty setting of the shed- ding motion. The har- ness roll has been set correctly as will be seen by the straps, but Figure 3. the front harness is too low, the yarn bearing heavily on the race board, indicated by arrow. The treadle ball on treadle operating back harness is not in contact with the shedding cam — indicated by arrow. The lay is shown as be- ing up against the harness. The consequent result of such a setting as this is as follows: The ends resting too heavily on race board will Practical Loom Fixing 13 chafe or "button," that is, small lumps or buttons will be made on the ends through the rubbing of the race board against the ends when the lay is moving backwards and forwards with the result that it is practically impossible to obtain a perfect fabric as the ends will be continually breaking out. The treadle ball should be in contact with the shedding cam for the whole of the revolution of cam so that the harness will have an easy movement. With the treadle ball as illus- trated, the cam will strike the ball and this in turn will cause the har- p c Figure 4. ness eyes on that shaft to come suddenly in contact with the ends causing many to break out and will also have a tendency to cut the harness eyes and otherwise wear out the harness, thereby producing fautly cloth and increasing the cost of manufacturing the cloth. 14 Practical Loom Fixing The front harness should never be set too close to the lay. If thfe lay strikes the harness, the harness twine will be cut wherever the lay comes in contact with it. Not only at these points will the harness twine be cut, but the lay, in striking the harness will force it back and when the harness is at the bottom and is knocked back by the lay, the top of the eyes are very easily cut. This is because the ends are tight and cut into the top of the eye and especially if the yarn is hard sized. A 3 C I Figure 5. Setting Harness Roll. At A, Fig. 3, (page 12), is illustrated the correct method of setting the harness roll when the harness is level. This is indicated by the heavy line passing through center of roll and showing that the harness strap Practical Loom Fixing 15 screws are directly opposite to each other. B shows the harness open with the back harness strap wrapped around the collar and the front harness strap unwound from the collar. This gives the easiest working of the roll and harness because each harness shaft is raised and lowered its required distance without either of the straps lapping under. Fig. 4 (page 13) illustrates a very faulty setting of the harness roll and one which is very often seen. A illustrates the setting of harness roll with the harness level. This is indicated by the line drawn through the roll from one harness strap screw to the other. B shows the result of the setting when the front harness is lowered and the back harness raised. The back harness strap is not wrapped around the collar sufficiently, neither is the front harness strap sufficiently wound from the collar. This, of itself and on this pick, does not have any unfavorable results, but, on the next pick, illustrated at C, when the back harness is lowered the result of this setting is very readily seen. On this pick, the front harness strap laps under itself, indicated by a X, and this raises the front harness higher than it should. Not only this, but the harness is given a sudden jerk which strains the yarn and when fine yarns are used this is often the cause of breaking out the ends and making uneven cloth. This jerky motion is also very detrimental to the harness and causes them to wear out sooner. The sketch also illustrates the strain that is put on the back harness strap and the harness itself. The stretch- ing of the harness causing the harness eyes to be pulled tight is often the means of cutting the ends in the eyes, as well as cutting the eyes them- selves. The life of this harness is considerably reduced. Fig. 5 (page 14) illustrates the setting of harness roll directly opposite to Fig 4 as line through harness roll indicates. The same unfavorable results will occur as in previous setting of roll. In addition to these defects, there is also the possibility of another defect appearing which in its results is worse than the foregoing. It will be noticed at B that the front harness and harness straps is stretched tight on this pick. If also on this pick, the lay should knock against the front harness, the top of the eyes would be cut because the ends which are drawn through the harness are tight and they would act as a knife on the top of harness eyes. Especially will this be the result if the harness twine is a little too fine for the goods being made, as sometimes happens, especially when the warp is drawn through the harness by the drawing in machine, as this requires a spiral spring through the harness in order to keep each eye separate, therefore a finer twine has to be used. Again, many looms are constructed with too little space between the lay and the loom arch and it is very difficult to keep the lay from striking the harness. In some cases this can be remedied by using a deeper harness. In any and every case, the harness should be set so that the lay will not strike them during weaving as this causes a large expense to the mill as well as a loss in production for the weaver. The back harness is raised too high and receives a sudden jerk when the straps lap under, as illustrated at X in B. At C, the straps do not have any bad effect on the weaving, the bad effects resulting from B. Summarized, the setting of the shedding motion should be as follows: 1. Have harness roll level, harness strap screws opposite each other. 2. Have harness level, both front to back and side to side. 3. Have treadles level. 4. Have shedding cams level. 5. Have treadle balls set against the cams so as to be in contact with the cams for the full revolution. 16 Practical Loom Fixing 6. Have harness set so that the lay will not strike against the front harness. 7. Have harness set so that when shed is open, the yarn will not rest on the race plate, neither be too high off the race plate. It is only necessary for the yarn to just touch the race plate. Figure 6. Practical Loom Fixing 17 Timing of Shedding Motion. A shedding motion can be set on three different timings as follows: late, medium, early. The medium and early timings are most generally used. For medium timing have harness level with crank between bottom and front center, illustrated in Fig. 6 at A. For early timing have harness level with crank on bottom center, illustrated in Fig. 6, at B. Many loom fixers measure the distance of the reed from fell of cloth and then set the harness level. For uniformity, this method is not as preferable as timing by the position of crank on crank shaft. There is a difference in the results obtained in certain fabrics with these two timings. On fabrics that do not have an excessive number of picks per inch the medium timing is very often used but on fabrics requiring a large number of picks per inch, the early timing is preferable. In plain goods, such as 80x80, the only way in which this number of picks can be put in the cloth is by early timing. When this timing is used, the ends have crossed the last pick of filling put in the cloth and holds it in place so that the reed has only to beat this one pick firmly into position. CHAPTER II Measurements for Size of Shed. When a shedding cam has to be constructed it is necessary to ascer- tain the stroke of cam required to raise and lower the harness the re- quired distance. With the cams already on loom, the size of shed these cams will give can very readily be obtained. When making these calcu- lations it must be remembered that there is always some loss caused ^-~ ( — ) ■&- £ ft n r ^ FIG.7 by the stretching of the straps, the method of connecting the various parts and the setting of the motion. This loss amounts oh an average to about three-quarters of an inch. 18 Practical Loom Fixing Take for example the following measurements of a shedding motion. Length of treadle from fulcrum to point of connection with front harness 22 inches. Distance from fulcrum to treadle ball, 14 inches. Stroke of cam, 3 inches. Distance of front harness from fell of cloth, 7% inches. Distance of front of shuttle to fell of cloth, 3% inches. What will be the size of shed? 22X3-^14=4.714 inches, distance through which front har- ness moves. 4.714 X3.5H-7 .5=2.2 inches size of shed. 2.2— .75=1.45 inches actual size of shed, after allowing three-quarters of an inch for stretch- ing of straps and lost motion. A shuttle about 1% deep would be used for this size of shed. Shedding Cams. In plain goods, two shedding cams are used and one is always larger than the other. The largest cam always operates the back harness because this harness is farther away from the fell of clotb and has to travel a greater distance in order to make the same size of shed as the front harness. The back harness is also connected nearer the fulcrum and for these reasons a larger cam is required. On twih and sateen goods, the cam that operates the front harness is the smallest, with an increase in size of each cam that operates the second, third, fourth and fifth harness respectively. All shedding cams have a certain amount of pause or dwell, that is v each harness when full open is stationary a certain length of time to allow the shuttle to pass through the shed. This is often called the dwell of the cams, and has a certain relation to the time occupied by one revolution of crank shaft. The shedding cams for plain goods may be classed under three heads: First, one-third dwell cam; second, one-half dwell cam; third, two-thirds dwell cam. The term dwell, refers to the portion of a revolu- tion of crank shaft that the harness dwells or is stationary. The one- Practical Loom Fixing 19 third dwell cam can only be used on narrow looms, because of the short time the harness remains open for the shuttle to pass through. When tender or poor yarns have to be woven this dwell cam may be used. A smaller shuttle has often to be used so as to get clear through the shed on time. The one-half dwell cam is the best practical cam that can be used. The harness are open for one-half revolution of crank shaft, which gives sufficient time for the shuttle to get clear through the shed, and one-half revolution for the harness to change. This cam is frequently used on narrow looms, always on medium width looms and often on wide looms. The two-third dwell cam, when used, is only used on extra wide looms, which requires extra time for the shuttle to pass through the shed from one shuttle box to the other. The harness are open for two- thirds revolution of crank shaft, but this only leaves one-third revolu- tion in which to change the harness, consequently a sudden movement is E f^^^s^^^^fflf F Flo.9. 1 "" ■ > 1 given to the harness which has a tendency to strain the yarn and alsc tends to quickly wear out the harness. Soft or tender yarns can not be woven with this cam, because of the sudden changing of the harness. Construction of Cams. Cams should be constructed so that the harness will be raised or lowered without any jumping or jerking motion. The easier the harness can be moved up and down, the better will be the weaving. In construc- ting a cam, care should be taken so that there will not be any depres- sions in same or the treadle ball will have a tendency to lock or bind, especially with a small ball. The following illustrations are given to show in a clear way the principle on which cams for plain weaves are constructed. Three cams are given, each having the same measurement, but with different dwells: Fig. 7 (page 17) having one-third dwell, Fig. 8 (page 18) one half dwell, Fig. 9 two-thirds dwell. To make plain goods, two cams are necessary as pattern repeats on 20 Practical Loom Fixing two picks, but only one cam need be illustrated as this will show the principle. Measurements: diameter of pick cam shaft \>k inches; diameter of cam hub, % inch; stroke of cam, 3 inches; diameter of treadle ball, 2 inches; dwell % revolution of crank shaft. To construct cam: One, describe circle A, which equals diameter of shaft; two, describe circle B, which equals hub or inner throw of cam; three, describe circle C, which equals the radius and center of treadle ball, with ball in contact with inner throw of cam; four describe circle D, which equals the radius and center of treadle ball, with ball in contact with outer throw of cam; five, divide circles into as many parts as there are picks in pattern. This is shown by line E F; six mark off dwell on each half of circles, illustrated by B, H, I, K; seven, divide space between G I and H K into six equal parts; eight, divide the space between circles G and D in six unequal parts, having smallest on outside and largest in center; nine, begin at one side with bottom corner of unequal parts, and on each of the corners describe circle as made by treadle ball. This will finish on outer circle on that side at H. On opposite side begin on outer circle, at G, and finish on inner circle. Ten, make out- line of cam by curved line touching extremities of treadle ball. CHAPTEE ni Picking Motion. This is one of the most important motions on the loom. It is this motion that causes so much power to be required to drive the loom. Description of Picking Motion. Unless all parts are adjusted and set correctly, there will be a consider- able waste in supplies such as breaking of picker sticks, lug straps, shut- tles, etc., as well as a loss of production caused by loom having to stop to replace broken parts. Especially will this be the case when too much ; "pick" is used. It is the aim of all good loom fixers to reduce the "pick" required to drive the shuttle across the lay to its lowest amount for in this way the loom runs with the smallest amount of attention from the fixer. The picking motion on a cotton loom is generally known as the "cone" or "ball" pick and is illustrated at Fig. 10 (page 21). The pick cam A is fixed in the pick cam shaft in the loom. Above the cam the cone B is connected to the picking shaft C, the shaft being held to the side of the loom by two pick shaft boxes. The picking arm D extends downward from the picking shaft and to this shaft is connected the lug straps. It will be noticed that the picking cone is not set directly over the center of the picking cam. With this arrangement the picking cam comes in contact with the cone forcing it upward, whereas if the cone had been directly over the center of picking cam, the cam would' have a tendency to drive the picking shaft forward against the pick shaft box. A point to be noticed in regard to this picking cam is the shape. This shape of cam gives a gradual development of power or force behind the shuttle, or in other words, a gradual increase in speed is given to the shuttle from the beginning of pick until the shuttle leaves the picker. This principle of driving the shuttle is much preferable to a sudden blow. The shape of the pick point also deserves consideration. If the pick point F is too hollow there is a tendency to lock or bind the cone which gives a jump to the motion and occasionally tends to break the picking shaft. With the pick point too narrow and straight a soft pick is the result, causing the loom to bang off. Practical Loom Fixing 21 Some picking cams have a circular base with a large pick point. These cams are generally keyed on the shaft, and adjustment in timing of pick can be made by moving the pick point backward or forward. On a new loom the pick point should be flush with the outer end of picking cone. On a loom that has been in operation for a number of years it is sometimes necessary to move the cam nearer the side of the loom in order to obtain the power required. The picking shaft should be set so that the picking cone will drop on the cam immediately after picking and travel around the cam until it is picked again. If the shaft is not set correctly, the cone does not drop immediately and in some cases only comes in contact with the cam just previous to picking, caus- ing a weak pick. Care should be taken in setting the picking shaft so as Figure 10. to have the cone full into the pick point and also have the end of pick point full against the cone for unless this is done much of the power is lost, The dropping of the picking cone in the same place after each pick eventually has its effect on the picking cam, with the result that the cam is badly worn at that point. It has been customary until recently to replace a badly worn cam with a new one. A device has recently been invented and put on the market by the Clinton Cam Company, Clinton, S. C, in the form of a casting to correspond with the outside of the cam which covers the worn part and this has removed the necessity of replacing the whole cam. Considerable saving has been effected by this because of the time saved that previously was required to replace the cam; also a saving in the cost of the cam. In addition to this, the adding of the casting to this particular point on the picking cam has made the cam more rigid at that point and also heavier, consequently a firmer blow is given to the picking cone. Parallel Motion. Fig. II, (page 22), illustrates this motion. A, picker stick. B, parallel or shoe. C, parallel tongue. D, parallel stand. E, plug. This is one of 22 Practical Loom Fixing the most important parts of the picking motion. The object of this motion is to enable the picker to travel parallel the full length of the stroke. The parallel stand, fastened to the rocker shaft, is level but the parallel is so constructed that the picker will travel parallel with the bottom of shuttle box. The shape of the parallel is obtained by using the picker as a center and the distance from picker to end of parallel as a radius. The parallel should be set to work full and free on the parallel stand, and should not work to one side or the small projection on top will soon be worn away or broken off with the result that the parallel will move Figure 11. about when picking and this will have a tendency to throw the shuttle out. The plug, which is inserted in the picking stand, must have the face perfectly true or this will cause the parallel to run crooked and shuttle will be thrown out. During picking, the parallel tongue forms a tapering contact with plug and guides the picker stick. Without the parallel motion it would be impossible to run a loom because it is abso- lutely necessary to have the picker travel straight in the shuttle box. If picker had to make an arc or a circle or in other words a curve from back to front end of box, the shuttle could not be driven across the lay. It is to dispense with this curve that the parallel motion is used. Practical Loom Fixing 23 Timing of Picking Motion. The shuttle should begin to move when crank is on top center. The motion is set on this timing because the shed is open to receive the shuttle, also the shuttle will have time to travel through the shed before shed begins to close. If the picking is set earlier than this the shuttle will have to force its way into the shed and this will chafe the yarn and break out the selvages. Another objection to picking before crank reaches top center is that ridges or furrows are made on the back of shuttle; this will also cause the shuttle to rattle in the box. The reason for ridges being made on back of shuttle is as follows. The lay on top center travels at its highest speed and as the crank moves toward the back center the speed is considerably reduced. The shuttle is therefore being delivered when lay is at its highest speed, but the speed of shuttle decreases as it passes through the shed. The speed of the lay also decreases and this allows the shuttle to keep close to the reed and get clear through the shed and into the opposite box on time. If shuttle is picked before crank reaches top center the lay will not have attained its highest speed and as the shuttle is passing across the lay there will be a tendency for the reed to leave the shuttle behind and in this way cause ridges at the back. CHAPTER IV Setting Lug Straps. These straps should be set to avoid extremes in power. To illustrate. A stronger pick is made by lowering the stirrup strap on pjcker stick Figure 12. or by lowering the dog on picking arm, or the arm itself. A weaker pick is made by raising the stirrup strap on picker stick or by raising the dog on picking arm, or the arm itself. The desired result is obtained by manipulating the dog on picking arm and stirrup strap on picker stick, but extremes should not be used, that is, the strongest pick on one and the weakest pick on the other. To more clearly illustrate this point Fig. 12 is given. Three different settings between the picking arm and picker stick are shown. A repres- ents the picking arm. B represents the picker stick. The connections 24 Practical Loom Fixing are shown between C on picking arm and D on picker stick, the line representing the lug straps. At section marked I, the lug strap is at its lowest point on the picking arm and at its highest point on the picker stick. The best results will not be obtained from this. There will be extra power on the picking arm, but it will be lost on account of the lug strap being high on the picker stick. This fixing will also cause trouble to the fixer as the screw that holds the stirrup strap, which in turn holds up the lug strap, will either break or be continually coming out. Section marked 2 is just the opposite to the marked 1, and is probably more un- satisfactory, because of the power being applied at the weakest point first. There will also be a tendency for the lug strap to jump up on the picker stick. The most satisfactory setting from every standpoint is given in section 3. In this case the lug straps are set level with the medium power on both picking arm. and picker stick. It is not always possible to set the lug straps absolutely level but it is advisable to do so when possible and to conform to practical results. In any case it is much easier to change from a weak to a stronger pick or from a strong to a weaker pick. This is illustrated by the dotted line which shows that for a weaker pick the lug strap can be raised on picker stick, while for a stronger pick the lug strap can be lowered on picking arm and still not have that undesirable extremes of power. The lug straps and picking cams should be so set in relation to each other that there will not be too much play between the lug strap and the picker stick as this causes lost motion and weak picks. To illustrate. First, lug strap on one side of loom is set to have about three-eighths of an inch play between outside lug strap and picker stick. Second, lug strap on opposite side of loom is set to have about one inch play between outside lug strap and picker stick. With the pick on correct time the picker stick on each side will begin to move when crank is on top center, on their respective picks. There will be a tendency for more weak picks with the second setting than with the first for the following reasons: In first setting, only three-eights of an inch had to be taken up before lug strap came in contact with picker stick. In second setting, one inch had to be taken up before lug strap came in contact with picker stick. This means that in the first setting, the pick point on picking cam will be just beginning to raise the cone on picking shaft and this will bring the lug strap against the picker stick and the full force of the pick point can be used to drive the shuttle across the lay. In the second setting, the pick point on picking cam will have forced up the cone a certain distance before the lug strap is brought in contact with the picker stick, thus reducing the force of the blow because much of the initial movement has been lost. To remedy this, the lug strap will have to be shortened as on opposite side and the pick cam set later to corres- pond, taking care that the picker stick and shuttle begin to move when crank is on top center. CHAPTER V Setting the Pickers. The majority of pickers used are made of strips of leather cemented together. When these pickers are used it is advisable to fasten the strips together more securely by three fine wire nails, one at the top of picker and the other two at the bottom as illustrated at Fig. 13-A. By doing this the strips do not break apart and the pickers last longer. Practical Loom Fixing 25 The loop which holds the picker to the picker stick should be of the correct size so that the picker can be securely fastened to the picker stick. In setting the picker to the picker stick, the stick will have to be at the back end of the box. The picker when fastened to the stick should not come in contact with box plate at the bottom of box. When picker stick is at the back end of box it is not straight, but at a certain angle so that when fastening the picker to the picker stick, if care is not taken, it will press hard against the box plate. It is advisable to cut the picker to fit. This is illustrated at Figs. 13-B, 13-C. Fig. 13-B shows / / c ; / 1 J-L 1 — . r- ill A. vWW\, B. MVWV C Figure 13. picker on picker stick with the stick straight in box. If picker is cut at dotted line it will fit on picker stick, as shown at Fig. 13-C. No part will be in contact with box plate when picker stick is at back of box. When picker is in correct position the shuttle should be pushed full in the box against the picker so that an impression will be made in face of picker. At this point, a small round hole should be cut. If this hole is not made, the shuttle is apt to strike in different places, but by making this hole, shuttle will strike true and be delivered better. Ex- cellent results are obtained if the hole is cut from one-sixteenth to one- eighth of an inch higher, that is the center of hole to be made that dis- tance higher than the impression made by the shuttle tip. Under no circumstances must the hole be made lower than the impression made by the shuttle tip or the shuttle will continually be flying out. It is advisable, when a new picker is being put on the picker stick, to notice whether the parallel is adjusted correctly or not. Sometimes the picker is too low when shuttle is being delivered and this will cer- 26 Practical Loom Fixing tainly throw the shuttle out. When this occurs, the elevation of the narallel will have to be changed. On some looms, an adjusting nut is provided for this purpose, but where this is not provided the picker can be elevated at delivery by inserting a piece of leather between the ton of parallel tongue and picker stick, or between tongue and parallel. If the picker is too high at delivery, a piece of leather inserted between picker stick and bottom of parallel tongue will reduce the elevation. Saving Pickers. Leather pickers usually consist of strips of leather glued together A saving in pickers can be made by keeping all the old pieces of leather and picking out the best pieces. A new picker can be split in two pieces and an equal number of old pieces of leather cut the Same shape as new picker can be made. These can be glued together and three fine w^e nails put in the picker as indicated at A, Fig. 13. If the mill has drop box looms, the old rawhide pickers can be used. The picker can be softened so that the part through which the spindle passes can be made pliable This can then be flattened out and the piece cut to the same shape as the leather picker and nailed to the regular picker leather. A good method is to have a layer of leather, then a layer of rawhide with leather behind. In making these pickers, it is of course necessary to keep them the same thickness as the regular pickers. Setting Picker Stick. Three methods of setting the picker stick are illustrated at A, B, G, in Fig. 14. R is to represent back end of shuttle box. At A, the picker stick has returned almost to the back end of box. The bottom of picker stick is set about level with the spiral spring to which the picker stick is connected through the heel strap. There is a direct pull of the spring to the bottom of the picker stick, which makes it easy to pull the picker stick to the back end of the box after picking. The spring should not be too strong, only sufficient strength being required to pull the picker stick back to its original position. If the spring is too strong, the pick will have to be made stronger to overcome the extra resistance of the spring, which is a waste of power. At B, the picker stick has been raised from one to two inches higher than A, which allows the picker stick to stay in the shuttle box from two to three inches from the back end of box. At C, the picker stick occupies the same position as at A, that is, the bottom of picker stick is level with the spiral spring, but the heel strap has been connected between the parallel tongue and the picker stick. This keeps the picker stick from three to four inches from the back end of shuttle box. When the picker stick is set as at B and C, it acts as a shuttle check and is used for this purpose. Both these settings are used by fixers. The object : on to the setting at G is that the picker stick is kept too far into the box, In both cases, extra pick is required on the shuttle to drive the picker stick to the back end of the shuttle box, but especially is this the case with setting as at G. CHAPTER VI Binders. Fig. 15 (Page 28) illustrates various shapes of binders used on cotton looms. A represents what is known as a gradual tapered binder. This is used on drop boxes and also other boxes, and is made of malleable iron so that the shape can be altered to suit various circumstances, Practical Loom Fixing 27 such as different sizes of shuttles. This binder, however, is usually so shaped that there will be a gradual taper on same and the shuttle will be gradually checked as it gets into the box. Also, this binder should grip the shuttle about half way, or near the center of shuttle. The binder should not be bent to grip the shuttle near back end or there will be a tendency for the shuttle to be driven crooked across the lay. This is due to the fact that the pressure being on the back end of shuttle will release the shuttle too soon and the shuttle will not be guided straight out of the box. If shuttle is released too soon with this shape of binder, the dagger will rub against the frog in passing under it, and will also cause the loom to bang off. This can be seen on examination of the dagger, for the point of dagger will show the effect of rubbing against the frog. B also illustrates a gradual tapered binder on a wood base The adjusting nut is to allow adjustments ,to be made according to the width of shuttle and clearance of dagger from frog. With gradual tap- ered binders, gradual tapered shuttles should be used, that is, shuttles that taper grauuaiiy from the shuttle tip backwards and do not have any shoulder on back of shuttle. Such shape is shown at A and B. Figure 14. With this shape of binder and shuttle the picker stick is pulled al- most to the back end of the box after picking, this setting of the picker stick being illustrated at Fig. 14-A. It is only necessary to put a piece 28 Practical Loom Fixing of leather at the back end of box between end of box and picker stick. What is generally understood as a shuttle check is not used with this shape of binder and shuttle. When shuttle enters the box, the speed is gradually reduced until it gets to the back end of the box where it is held in position for the next pick. There is, however, a small check finger fastened to the protector rod, which in a way controls the binder so as to keep the shuttle in position when full into the box. This finger is fastened to the protector rod with the opposite end under the lay sole. When the shuttle is almost full into the box, this finger should be set against the lay sole and in this way the shuttle is held in position. Illustrated Fig. 21, Page 38. C, illustrates a wood binder, and when made as with full lines, would be known as a shoulder or blunt binder. This shape is usually used on the back of shuttle box with a side protector. The shape of shuttle used can be as full lines which represents a shouldered shuttle,, that is, the back of shuttle extends nearer the tips of shuttle than does the front of shuttle, in other words, there is a gradual taper on front of shuttle to the end of tip but not at the back. The shape can be also -o A 3 B 3 C Figure 15. gradually tapered, as indicated by dotted lines. Many fixers, however, prefer the shouldered shuttle for this binder. The dotted line on binder illustrates a method of using the wood binder on front of shuttle box and having practically a gradually tapered binder. D illustrates a blunt or shoulder binder, on front of box with center protector. This binder is made of cast iron and the uhape cannot be changed. A shoulder shuttle can only be used successfully with this binder. If the gradual tapered shuttle is used with this binder, it will not pass straight into the shuttle box; also, when shuttle is leaving the tsnuttle box the front end of shuttle will be forced away from the reed, and shuttle will run crooked across the lay and will also have a ten- dency to fly out. This is clearly illustrated in sketch. One end of Practical Loom Fixing 29 shuttle is in contact with the binder, which forces back that end be- cause there is nothing to prevent it and this causes the other end to be forced out as will be seen. If, however, a shoulder shuttle had been used, as indicated by dotted lines, the binder could not have forced back the end of shuttle and it would be delivered straight from the box. Summarizing the above, it can be stated thus: On looms with grad- ual tapered binders, gradual tapered shuttles can be used. On looms with shoulder or blunt binders, shouldered shuttles can be used. Front binders, with few exceptions are generally gradually tapered. Front binders have the center protector; back binders have the side protector. On fine goods, the gradual tapered binder and shuttle is preferred. If the shoulder shuttle was used, it would be too hard on the selvages ends. Relation of Picker Stick to Binder. As stated previously, with gradual tapered binders, the picker stick returns to the back end of shuttle box after each pick. The checking of the shuttle after it enters the box is done by the binder and then held in position by the small finger fastened on protector rod and under the lay sole. With the shoulder binder, the picker stick remains in the shuttle box two or three inches and acts as a check on the shuttle. Fig. 14-B is the setting of picker stick. When this shape of binder is used, it is necessary to use a shuttle check, or have the shuttle box very tight. It is not advisable to have the shuttle box too tight as this wears out the shuttle and increases the supply bill. The necessity for having to use a shuttle check with this kind of binder is as follows: The shuttle, as it passes from one shuttle box to the other, travels rapidly. As the shuttle enters the box, it comes suddenly in contact with the shoulder of the binder and this sudden contact causes the protector finger to rebound slightly, or in other words, to release the binder for the moment, and shuttle shoots into the box. If the picker was at the back end of box under these conditions, the shuttle would rebound and it is to prevent this rebound and to bring the shuttle to a stop gradually, that the check is used. CHAPTER VII Beating Up. * The third principal movement in weaving is "beating up the filling." Fig. 16, (Page 30), A and B, illustrates this motion. The names of the parts are as follows: Reed cap G; reed H; lay sole K, on top of which is fastened a steel race plate or a wood race board; lay sword L which is fastened to rocker shaft M; connecting pin N which connects the crank arm from crank to lay. Measurement of sketches, 28 inches lay sword, from center of rocker shaft to connecting pin; 12 inch crank arm; crank 3 inches radius. The figures are reduced in size proportionately. The sketch A illustrates the general setting of the crank and connecting pin in relation to each other. Sometimes the setting is as illustrated at B. When the lay is vertical, the reed in full against the cloth. Sometimes in beating up, the lay is a little forward of the vertical. Very seldom is the lay behind a vertical line when filling is being beaten into the cloth. The curved line illustrates how the connecting pin moves. The circle illustrates the crank making its revolution. The radius of the crank being 3 inches, the diameter of the circle as described by crank will be 6 inches. The lay, which is at the fell of the cloth, or up against the cloth when crank is on front center, will be pulled back 6 inches 30 Practical Loom Fixing by the crank. This distance is illustrated by connecting pin on lay, having moved from N to S in the curved line. When crank is on front center, the crank arm will be at N. X; when crank is on back center, the crank arm will be at S, Y. The intermediate points of connecting pin between N and S, show the various positions of the lay with corres- ponding positions of the crank. For example, with connecting pin at N, from M to N, the crank will be on front center. M, 0, will be position of connecting pin when crank is at 0. M P. will be position of connect- ing pin when crank is at P. M R, will be position of collecting pin when crank is at R. M S, will be position of connecting pin when crank is at Y or back center. Two points will be noticed. First, The distance through which the connecting pin travels, has been divided into four equal parts. Second, The distance through which the crank travels has been divided into Figure 16. irregular parts, each part being in exactly its correct position. The dis- tance from 0, connecting pin, to 0, crank circle, is exactly the same distance as from P to P, and R to R, and S to Y. From this it will be seen that the lay does not have a regular movement but has what is known as an eccentric movement. Connecting pin moves from N to 0, while crank moves from X to 0. Connecting pin moves from to P, while crank moves from to P and so on through the movements. The lay therefore, travels the fastest between points and R, and slowest between R and R, while crank is passing round back center. A comparison of A and B will show that A has more eccentricity than B, which will therefore give a firmer beat up to the filling. The eccentricity is caused by the connecting pin being higher or lower than the crank shaft, or the shaft being higher or lower than the connecting pin. In B the crank arm is in a straight line when crank is on front Practical Loom Fixing 31 center. In A the crank arm is on a plane or a straight line when crank is on top center. "It is this relation of the connecting pin to the crank that causes the eccentricity. The eccentricity of the lay allows the shuttle time to get across the lay from one shutle box to the other. If a change had to be made on a loom from fine goods to coarse goods it would be advisable, if possible. to increase the eccentricity of the lay because of the firmer beat up of the filling which would be obtained, and the corresponding increase in time allowed for the shuttle to pass through the shed. Effect of Pick on the Eccentricity of the Lay. This heading is given because it is sometimes thought that the pick has some effect on the making of the eccentricity of the lay. This is not so as the pick does not have any such effect. If there is extra strong pick on the loom; or if the shuttle is too tight in the shutle box there will be a slight retard when crank is on top center, because this is the timing of picking motion. This retard can be felt by placing the hand on the lay cap but it is not in any way the cause of the eccentricity. This is merely poor loom fixing and should be remedied at once. CHAPTER VIII Take-Up Motion. When the number of picks per inch in cloth has to be changed, the only thing to be done is to put a new change or pick gear on the take-up motion, hence calculations for this motion are seldom made. There are one or two little points about this motion that are not as clearly under- stood as they ought to be. For the purpose of making these points clear we will divide the take-up motions as follows: 1. When motion is driven from bottom shaft and one tooth in change gear is equal to two picks put in the cloth. 2. When motion is driven from crank shaft or lay sword and one tooth in change gear is equal to one pick put in cloth. 3. When motion is driven from bottom shaft and calculation has to be made for change gear. Fig. 17 illustrates a train of gears driven from the bottom shaft in loom. One tooth in change gear will be equal to two picks in cloth. A is the ratchet gear of 100 teeth; B, take-up gear of 17 teeth on same stud. This gear meshes directly into change gear C, of 24 teeth, which is on the sleeve of pick sleeve gear D, with 21 teeth. This gear trans- mits motion to the cloth room gear E of 50 teeth. The circumference of tin roller is 14% inches. In take up calculations, the circumference of tin roll must always be taken into consideration and not the diameter of roll. The driven gears are multiplied together for a dividend and the drivers together with the circumference of the tin roll for a divisor. Result of driven gears divided by result of drivers will give a number, which multiplied by 2 will give the picks per inch. The multiplier 2 is used because the motion is driven from bottom shaft and one tooth in change gear is equal to two picks. 100X24X50 =23.58X2=47.16. 17X21X14.25 The change gear it will be noticed, is 24 teeth, so that there will be 48 picks per inch in cloth. Now the calculation only shows 47.16 picks per inch, but as 'there is always a certain amount of slipping 32 Practical Loom Fixing of cloth and contraction after cloth is taken off the loom and as this is variously estimated at from 1% to 2 per cent, the picks will be right for the change gear. In all take-up motion calculations, the ratchet gear is a driven gear and the circumferences of tin roll is considered as a driver. Somewhat the same arrangement of gears is used when the motion is driven from crank shaft or lay sword as given in 2. In this case the change gear is generally the ratchet gear. The following gears are used on one of these motions. Ratchet gear (change) 46 teeth, take-up gear 12 teeth, gear fixed on sleeve gear 35 teeth, sleeve gear 12 teeth, cloth 100 0\ So n □ B \+±"ClR. Figure 17. roll gear 60 teeth, circumference of tin roll 13 3-8 inches. 46X34X60 =45.66. 12X12X14.375 The take-up gear has 46 teeth, for that number of picks per inch Practical Loom Fixing 33 in cloth. The calculation allows a little under that but when allowance is made for slippage and contraction of cloth from loom there will be 46 picks per inch in cloth. Fig. 18 illustrates the train of gears when motion is imparted as stated at 3. These gears require a calculation to show the number of Figure 18. picks per inch put in the cloth as the change gear does not indicate the number of picks per inch. To save time, a list of gears should be made showing the number of picks each gear will give. Sometimes the calculation is made by proportion, using the gear on loom with the picks in cloth and ascertaining what gear will be required for another number of picks. This however, is not very satisfactory, because it is not always possible to get the exact change gear. With the train of gears in illustration, what change gear can be used for 64 picks per inch? In this calculation the picks per inch are 34 Practical Loom Fixing substituted for change gear. The answer is multiplied by 2, because the motion is driven from bottom shaft. 110X68 =9.542X2=19 change gear. 64X12X12.25 Influence of Tin Roll on Picks Per Inch. The size of tin roll has a decided influence on the number of picks per inch. Any variation in the size of roll will have a corresponding variation in the picks per inch. This is a point that should be carefully watched, especially when old tin rolls have to be re-covered. In re- covering tin rolls, the old perforated tin should always be taken off before putting on the new tin. If this is not done ,the new tin covering being put over the old, will increase the diameter of the roll and this will cause the cloth to be pulled down faster, with the result that a less number of picks will be put in cloth than is called for by the change gear. If the circumference of tin roll is increased in any other way, the change gear and the picks per inch in cloth will not correspond. When sand rolls are used, and at one time they were more in use than at present, the surface would gradually rub ana wear off. When re-cover- ing with this "sand," which is a combination of grit, small patricles of glass, etc., the circumference will be made too large if care is not taken when doing the work. When re-covering an old sand roll with perforated tin, all the old sand must be cleaned off the roll otherwise an uneven surface will be left and this will show clearly in cloth by making it uneven. Perforated tin is now used almost exclusively for cotton goods, but on the finer grades of goods extreme care is required in selection of thi^ so as not to damage the cloth when winding on ihe cloth roll. Setting Take-Up Pawl. On plain goods the take-up pawl should be set to turn the ratchet gear when the harness are level. At this point the yarn and cloth has the least strain on them. The most strain is on the yarn when harness shafts are wide open and if the take-up motion operates at this tim« an additional strain is put on the yarn. CHAPTER IX Gear Let-Off Motion. ^ig. 19 illustrates a gear let-off motion. This motion is used exten- sively on plain looms. The motion is controlled by 'he vibration of whip roll and the connecting rod from lay sword. There are different makes of gear let-off motions, but all have the same governing principles. The parts of the motion given are as follows: A clutch lever A connects a spring rod B to the whip roll. On the spring rod are two springs, ;i long one and a short one. An upright lever C works on a stud fixed to the side of the loom. The top of the lever is on the short end of the spring rod and is held between the spring and the collar. To the bottom of the lever is fastened a round iron rod D that is connected to the pawi lever E at F, the connection being shown in small sketch in corner. The connection F is directly behind the vertical shaft G, on which the pawi lever moves. On the end of pawl lever a small pawl H is fixed and this pawl turns the ratchet J. A small spring keeps the pawl in contact with the ratchet. The vertical shaft G carries a worm K which, when the shaft revolves turns the worm gear L. This worm gear is fastened to a small shaft which carries on its opposite end a small pinion gear and ihis Practical Loom Fixing 35 pinion gear being meshed with gear on loom beam flange transmits motion to the loom beam. The rod M is connected to the lay sword which works free through collar set screwed on pawl lever rod D. Setting the Motion. Have the whip roll set a little higher than the harness eyes, with clutch lever A as near vertical as possible. The large spring on spring rod B should have sufficient pressure on it to keep the yarn tight. The pressure on this spring will be determined by the amount of yarn on beam. The small spring should not be too close or tight and is governed by the strength of the top spring. This small spring counterbalances the oscillation of the whip roll and the rebound of the top spring. When the harness shafts are level, the upright lever C should be vertical and the pawl should be on the outside of the ratchet as shown in large sketch. When the harness are opening the whip roll is forced down and through the spring rod B a slight forward movement is given the B f \W/////AOVW/, j//,'V ^^^ '///////////, -c o /n Figure 19. upright lever C. This causes the pawl H to pass over the required num- ber of teeth on the ratchet gear and also brings the collar on pawl lever rod almost in contact with the small collar on rod M, which is con- nected to lay sword. In beating up, the rod M will pull the pawl lever rod D forward and the ratchet will be turned. The small collar on rod M can be set to come in contact with collar on pawl lever rod D according to requirements, but a good setting is to have the reed about one inch from the fell of cloth with collars in contact with each other. Every part of the motion must work freely. If there is any binding in 36 Practical Loom Fixing any part of the motion uneven cloth will almost certainly result. When thin cloths are being made, there should not be too much motion of the whip roll as the extreme movement is likely to cause thin places in the cloth. When a full warp is put in the loom the long spring on spring rod is tightened by moving the collar. This reduces the vibration of whip roll and in turn reduces the number of teeth passed over by the pawl on the ratchet gear. This reduces the speed of the loom beam in letting off the yarn but not the amount of yarn let off because of the circumference of the yarn on the beam. As the yarn is woven off the loom beam, the circumference of the yarn on beam is reduced.therefore the loom beam has to travel faster to let off the amount of yarn taken up in weaving. The tension on the large spring must be reduced per- iodically so as to maintain the full width of the goods in the loom. If this is not done the cloth will be pulled out too long and will be too narrow. Friction Let Off. The commonest friction let off is a rope passed around the drum of the beam head and attached to a weight lever under the loom beam. Sufficient weight is required on the lever to keep the yarn tight. As the beam is reduced in size, some of the weight is taken off. In damp weather, when rope is used it becomes sticky and the yarn is not let off evenlv. When this occurs, the rope and beam head should be cleaned thoroughly, and black lead or powdered graphite should be applied in small quantity and this will allow the beam yarn to be let off evenly. Sometimes French chalk or Talc powder is used but this is not as good as black lead. The rope should be kept clean at all times and oil should not be allowed to drop on either the rope or beam head as this will soon make the rope sticky and cause uneven cloth to be made. The best results from the rope friction seems to be obtained when a hemp rope is used as it is less likely to become sticky. Many mills are using chains for friction instead of rope. These chains are not affected by changes in atmospheric conditions, that is, if the room should be damp owing to a change from dry to damp weather, or an extra amount of moisture being put in the room, there will not be any visible effect on the chain let off. This is an advantage over the rope let off. These chains, however, require great care or the beam head will soon become grooved. CHAPTEE X Filling Stop Motion. This motion is illustrated in Fig. 20 and is an alternate stop motion, that is, the fork is raised out of the way of the elbow lever on every second pick. The purpose of the motion is to stop the loom when filling runs out or is broken and in order to operate successfully, the various parts must be set and adjusted correctly. A stop motion cam A is setscrewed on the pick cam shaft in the loom. This cam is made in different shapes, an eccentric cam often being used. The elbow lever B, is of two parts, one extending over the cam and the other end extend- ing upwards under the filling fork. G is the filling fork, D the grate which is in line with the reed and back of box. At right hand side of illustration a fork and fork slide is shown. When the loom is running, the filling is carried by the shuttle directly in front of the grate and between the grate and the fork. As Practical Loom Fixing 37 the lay comes forward, the filling will raise the fork out of the way of the elbow lever and loom will continue to run. When filling is broken the fork passes through the grate, and the elbow lever, in moving out- wards comes in contact with the catch on end of fork. This forces back the filling fork slide and at the same time forces back the shipper handle and loom is stopped. Setting the Fork. In setting the fork, care must be taken that the prongs of the fork pass clear into or through the grate and must not come in contact at all with the grate but must work clear so that when filling breaks, the catch on the fork will remain over the elbow lever. Excessive move- ment of the fork should be avoided and the fork should be set so as not to pass too far through the grate as this not only gives excessive move- ment but causes strain on the filling. The prongs of the fork should not be too long, or when fork is raised the bottom of the prongs will come in contact with the lay sole and this often causes loom to stop. Shape of Fork. The prongs of the fork can be made any desired shape. These shapes are given in Fig. 20 at E, F and G. The shape given at E and F are two of the best that can be used. E has the straight prong, F the slightly concave prong. The filling is subjected to the smallest possible amount of strain and it is not necessary to have them pass very far through the Figure 20. grate in order to raise the catch on end of fork the required distance out of the way of the elbow lever. The shape at G is not very desirable and is not as easily regulated as the other shapes. The filling is more likely to slip on the fork and more pressure is required to raise the catch on the end of fork the required distance. In all cases the prongs 38 Practical Loom Fixing of the fork should be of sufficient length to reach below the level of race plate and into groove that is cut into the lay sole at the required point. Timing of Stop Motion. Have shuttle in box at stop motion side with crank in front center or just a trifle past front center. Push fork slide as far forward as it will go. At this point, the stop motion cam should be set to raise the elbow lever so that the end will be just passing under the catch on fork. Thin Place Preventor. On almost all cotton looms there is a thin place preventor. These are constructed differently but the object is the same on all, namely, to raise the catch on take-up gears when filling breaks which prevents the gears from drawing down the cloth for those picks where no filling is inserted. On looms with tight and loose pulleys the thin place preventor is of much value as the lay usually turns over for two, three or four picks before coming to a stop. On these picks the ratchet gear on take-up motion is kept from being turned and the cloth is not pulled down. The loom can generally be started up without turning back the take-up gears if the preventor motion is working correctly. Often, the passing of the hand across the cloth before starting up the loom is sufficient to prevent a thin place. The motion is operated in all cases from the filling fork slide so that as this slide is pulled back when filling is broken, the motion operates. Protector Motion. There are two kinds of protector motions on looms, namely, center protector and side protector. The purpose of the protector motion is to prevent smashes. If the shuttle should not get into the shuttle box the loom will bang off and if shuttle is in the shed a smash will be prevented. Figure 21. Fig. 21 illustrates a center protector. The center protector has only one dagger which is in the center of protector rod. The binder in shuttle box is always on the front of box. In illustration, A represents shuttle boxes; B, the binders; C, protector fingers; D, protector rod; E, dagger; F, spiral spring on protector rod; G, check finger; H, the frog Practical Loom Fixing 39 cr receiver. The frog is held under breast beam, one end being behind the shipper handle. The spring on protector rod is to keep the protector fingers in con- tact with the binders. The spring should not be too tight, only sufficient tension being required to keep the protector fingers in position. The spring, however, is sometimes used as a means of checking the shuttle but it is' not advisable to do this. When the shuttle is in the box, the binder is forced out and in turn forces out the protector finger and the dagger on protector rod passes under the frog or receiver. When shuttle is not in the box, the dagger strikes the frog and knocks off the shipper handle, stopping the loom. The small sketch on right hand side shows the check finger in con- tact with the bottom of lay sole. This check finger is only used on front binders and which are generally gradual tapered. The setting of this finger is to have the shuttle almost full into the box with the binder and protector finger pushed out almost as far as they will go and at that point the end of finger should be set against the bottom of lay sole. This will check and hold the shuttle in the box. The check finger must not be set to hold the shuttle too tight in the box but just enough to keep the shuttle in place and also to prevent rebounding of shuttle in box. If the finger is set to hold the shuttle too tight, more power will be required to drive the shuttle; the shuttle will also wear out sooner. By the use of the check finger, the picker stick can be set to the back of box after picking. Figure 22. Fig. 22 illustrates the side protector. A side protector is always operated from a back binder. The finger shows the protector motion on shipper handle side and the connection of frog with brake. The frog A has the knock-off finger B fastened to it and which is directly behind the shipper handle C. D is the dagger which is attached to the protector 40 Practical Loom Fixing rod; E being the protector finger fastened to protector rod. The pro- tector rod is suspended in small bearings under the lay sole. When the dagger comes in contact with the steel receiver F in the frog, the shipper handle is knocked out of position, the belt is pushed on the loose pulley, and the brake G is pulled in contact with the wheel on tight pulley H, thus stopping the loom. With this protector motion, two frogs are generally used. The one operating on shipper handle side is an active or live frog, the one on opposite side of loom is an inactive frog or as is often called a blind frog. These two frogs are exactly the same but the inactive frog merely receives part of the strain when loom bangs off. The daggers are set so that the one on shipper handle side will come in contact with the frog before the dagger on the opposite side. If these conditions should be reversed, that is, if the dagger on inactive frog should be in contact with frog before the active dagger, a smash will certainly result, sooner or teter. Setting Protector Fingers. The protector fingers which are fastened to the protector rod must be set so that when shuttle is in the box the dagger will clear the frog. Also, when shuttle is not in the box, the fingers should be set so that the dagger will strike squarely in the frog. If the dagger strikes too nigh, the binder has to be set closer in the box so as to have the dagger move a greater distance, thus requiring more power as well as putting increased pressure on the shuttle. The frog should be placed in the position it will be when loom is running. The dagger should be full into the groove in frog. At this position, the protector fingers should be set full against the binders. In setting, care must be taken not to have any lost motion between finger and binder, also that the dagger strikes full into the frog. CHAPTER XI Cover or Face on Cloth. The subject of cover or face on cloth is one that should have full attention given to it. Judging from the way much of the plain cloth is woven, it would appear as though face on goods is of very little value. Cover or face is of value and fabrics possessing this feature, which costs practically nothing to put on, is very often the deciding factor in many sales. Not only is this feature the deciding factor in making the sale, but a better price is often paid for the goods. There are three requisites for putting face on cloth. First, setting of whip roll. Second, soft twisted filling. Third, timing of shedding cams. First. The setting of whip roll is one of the first details which must be attended to. It is suprising how often this little thing is neglected. What ought to be done in every mill on the same class of goods, whether goods have to be covered or not, is to have one position of the whip roll. When the correct position has been found for either reedy or covered cloth, the whip roll on all looms should be set the same and the result will be uniform in every piece produced. Setting For Reedy Cloth or Without Cover. Fig. 23 illustrates the setting of whip roll and harness to produce cloth in loom without any face or cover on it. With the harness level, that is, crossing each other, the warp yarn forms a straight line from the whip roll A to the breast beam B. Fig. 24 illustrates the harness shafts open, the dotted line representing the warp line as in Fig. 23. Practical Loom Fixing 41 It will be noticed that there is an even tension on the yarn both at the top and bottom. As the ends in a plain cloth are drawn through the reed two in a dent, every two ends will be worked together as a unit, and the reed wire separating every two ends and beating the filling into the cloth will keep each two ends together and leave an empty space between. Each two ends being opened and held together at even tension must of necessity run together. The warp and filling is divided evenly en the face and back of cloth. Setting For Covered Cloth. Fig. 25 illustrates the position of whip roll to put face or cover on cloth. It will be noticed that tb.3 only change that has been made be- - -^HTl Fig. 28 Fig. 24 tween Fig. 23 and Fig. 25 is that the whip roll A is set higher in Fig. 25 than in Fig. 23. This, however, is one of the vital points in putting face on ^oods. Fig. 26 illustrates the harness shafts open with this setting, the dotted line illustrating the warp line as in Fig. 24. The harness shafts have been raised and lowered the same distance as in Fig. 24, hut it will be noticed in this Fig. that the bottom of the warp is much tighter than the top half. This is because the line that is formed by m ( 2) • ■^ B$ Fig. 25. Fig. 26 the warp drawn through the raised harness shaft is not as high above the warp line as the warp drawn through the lowered harness is below the warp line. In other words, when a harness shaft is raised, the yarn that is drawn through that shaft does not have the same tension on it 42 Practical Loom Fixing that the yarn does that passes through the harness shaft that is lowered. The effect of this on the yarn and cloth is as follows: When the harness shafts are open and the reed is beating the filling into the cloth, the ends in the top part of the shed will be looser than the ends in the bottom part, consequently the loose ends will spread out and in between the tight ends and the marks of the reed will not be seen. Also, remembering that the bottom half of the warp is tighter than the upper half, the filling will be forced on the face of the cloth and it is the filling that makes the "face" on cloth. In some cases, the cloth is raised at the breast beam by placing a strip of wood either on top of breast beam or in front and allowing the end of wood to extend over the top of breast beam. When this is done, the warp line will be higher both at the breast beam and whip roll than at the harness shafts when shafts are level. Care must be taken that the cloth is not raised too high or the ends of the upper half of the shed will be too loose. This will also occur if the whip roll is too high. Second. To obtain the best face or cover, the filling should be soft twisted. It will readily be seen that the softer and more loosely twisted filling that can be used, the better will be the face or cover since the filling is forced on the face of cloth and it is the filling that gives the cover. Third. The timing of shedding cams has a decided influence on the face of cloth. There are three different timings of cams, namely, late, medium, early. Each setting is suitable for special kinds of cloth, but when considering the regular plain sheeting and prints, the medium or early timing should be used. The medium timing of motion is to have crank between bottom and front center with the harness shafts level. Early timing of motion is to have crank on bottom center with the harness shafts level. With the early timing, the shuttle will have passed through the shed and laid in the pick of filling, the harness shafts will have crossed the picks and be almost full open when the reed is beating the filling into the cloth. With the whip roll set at Fig. 26 the filling will be forced on the face of cloth because the bottom half of the warp is tighter than the upper half and also because the ends, being opened, will allow the filling to be beaten into the cloth easier. Many fixers time the position of the shedding cams by the distance of reed from fell of cloth with the harness shafts level. A medium timing of motion will be when reed is about one inch from fell of cloth with harness shafts level; an early timing of motion will be when reed is about two inches from fell of cloth. Cost of Adding "Face" or Cover to Cloth. It has been previously stated that it costs practically nothing to add face to cloth as the following shows: First. It costs nothing to raise the whip roll for the fixer can do this in his regular work. When the correct position has been ascer- tained, a measuring stick can be made and all the whip rolls set to this standard. As the raising of whip roll puts additional strain on the bottom part of the shed, the yarn will have to be carefully sized so as to retain all its strength, but this can be done by a judicious mixing of sizing ingredients. The whip roll must not be set too high or the yarn at the bottom part of the shed will have too much tension on it and the ends will be liable to break. Also, the yarn at the top part of the shed will be too loose and this will have a tendency to throw out the shuttle. Practical Loom Fixing 43 Care is therefore required in getting the correct position for the whip roll. Sufficient face or cover can generally be put on cloth by adjusting the whip roll, though occasionally a strip of wood has to be added to the breast beam. This will be added expense but the results obtained will more than compensate for this. Second. The making of soft twisted filling will probably cost a little more because of the extra breaking of the ends on the spinning frame. These breakages should not be too many unless the filling is extra soft twisted, in which case there will be more ends down on the spinning frame and more stoppages on the loom than there will be when the regular filling is used. The regular filling twist is usually correct and an excellent face or cover can be obtained when other things are in proportion. Third. It certainly does not cost anything to set the shedding cams early in preference to setting them late. Summary. To sum up in a concise form the following points are given which, if followed, will certainly give good results. For Cloth Without Face or Cover. Have harness shafts level. Crank between bottom and front center. Set whip roll so that "warp line" will be in a straight line from whip roll to breast beam. For Cloth With Face or Cover. Have harness shaft level. Crank on bottom center. Set whip roll so that "warp line" will be above a straight line from whip roll to breast beam, the line being lower at the harness shafts. In other words, raise the whip roll. In some special cases put a strip of wood on the breast beam. CHAPTER XII Temples. Temples are for the purpose of keeping the fell of cloth as wide as the yarn in the reed. If temples were not used, the selvages would not weave. Fig. 27 illustrates a left hand temple with plate. This is a single roll temple, some temples having double rolls. Temples are made for all kinds of work, both fine and coarse and in different widths to suit the cloth being made. The rolls should always work freely, if they do not, the pins in the roll will make small holes in the cloth if fine cloth is being made. The pins will also pluck the filling and make a poor looking cloth. The rolls should be kept clean as ends frequently wrap around them. This keeps The pins from holding the cloth out firmly and allowing it to slip. Waste also accumulates at the ends of the roll and this keeps the roll from turning. It is often necessary to take out the rolls to clean and oil and in replacing same, care is necessary. On some fine goods, the finest pins used in rolls will sometimes make temple marks. To remedy this, the rolls should be covered with fine tissue paper until only the points of pins show through the paper and this is enough to hold the cloth the full width. Sometimes filling is wound round the roll but this is not as good as tissue paper. Rough and bent pins cause temple marks, plucking of filling in cloth as it passes through the temple; and holes are often made in cloth by these defective pins. 44 Practical Loom Fixing Setting the Temple. The plate of temple should be fixed securely to the breast beam. Che trough of the temple should be just high enough for the lay sole to pass under. The selvage of cloth should be full into the temple. When the reed is about one-eighth of an inch from the fell of cloth the lay sole should be in contact with the heel plate on temple. Fig. 28 illustrates the lay almost in contact with the heel plate of temple A. With the heel plate set so as to have the lay sole come in contact at this point, a slight forward movement is given to the temple. This releases the selvage at this point and the strain on them is slightly reduced. There should not be too much movement of the temple. Lease Rods. These rods are for the purpose of separating the yarn and obtaining, as the name indicates, a "lease." This use of lease rods enables the weaver to readily find the place if an end should be broken; the ends can Figure 27. also be kept straight, which is of great service, especially when colored yarns are used. A clearer "shed" is obtained by the use of them and they also keep the ends from becoming tangled. A soft wood, with sur- face insufficiently protected, should not be used as the continued draw- ing of the ends over the rods soon cuts little ridges or furrows in them. This is a source of constant trouble and expense as the ends getting in ihe ridges are continually breaking out, especially on fine yarns. Such rods have then to be sandpapered frequently so as to keep them smooth. To overcome this difficulty, a lease rod made from either basswood Practical Loom Fixing 45 or white birch, thoroughly seasoned and kiln-dried, then enameled with a spe^al enamel designed and made for this purpose, and the enamel carbonized and thoroughly baked on the rods for successive coats under high heat for hours, produces a hard, glazed surface, over which the ends runs as smoothly as over glass. So made they wear for many years Lease rods are of different shapes and sizes. The largest rod, which is a round one, is always inserted in the yarn first, and is the back rod. The back harness is raised and the front harness lowered when the rod is inserted in the yarn. When the front rod, which is oval, is inserted, the front harness is raised and the back harness lowered. The reason for inserting the rods in warp in this order is as follows:: When the back harness is lowered and the front harness raised the shed is formed Figure 28. at a point between the rods and the fell of cloth. The added thickness of the back rod is sufficient to put the necessary tension on the yarn to make a clear shed because the front harness is near the fell of cloth. When the front harness is lowered and the back harness raised, the shed is formed from the front rod and the fell of cloth. The back har- ness has to travel a greater distance than the front harness to make me same size of shed for the shuttle to pass through because it is farther away from the fell of the cloth, therefore more tension is required on the ends drawn through that harness so as to make a clear shed. This additional tension is obtained by having the ends under the front lease rod which is sufficient to equalize the distance between the harness and fell of cloth. A small oval rod is therefore necessary for front rod as the larger the rod the farther the yarn has to bend. Shuttles. On single box work the usual custom is to have two shuttles to one loom so that when one is at work the other is threaded up ready for use. When more than one shuttle is used on the same loom they should all be the same size, shape and weight. The shuttle box is set for one size of shuttle and there should not be any variation in size otherwise there will be more or less trouble with loom banging. The weight of MM 46 Practical Loom Fixing shuttles should be as near the same as it is possible to get them. The shape of shuttle should be the same on all shuttles used. With a gradual tapered binder, the best shape of shuttle to use is one that is tapered io the shuttle tip, with the tip in center of shuttle. A shoulder shuttle should only be used with a shoulder or blunt binder and the shoulder on snuttle should not be too deep. More and better production can be obtained from the loom by the use of a correctly designed shuttle. The shuttles should be made of the best material and perfectly constructed. With poor material the shuttles soon become ridgy on the back, splinter and soon wear out. The result is a loss in production caused by ends breaking out, smashes, etc. Care of shuttles is an important part of weaving, especially on fine goods. Shuttles are, however, very often neglected with the result that ends are continually breaking out. All rough places should be made smooth by being sandpapered and all sharp edges should be eliminated. Shuttles should be handled carefully and should not be dropped on the floor. This causes the tips to be blunted and flattened. It is im- possible to have good weaving when the shuttle tips are flat or blunted. When the tips are in this condition any loose ends are caught by the tip and broken out. The tip strikes the loose ends, breaking them and carrying them through the shed. The blunted tip can readily be de- tected when this occurs because the broken ends are carried in the direction this tip is traveling. All blunt tips should be sharpened. They should be perfectly round and to a sharp point, for only in this way can the best results be obtained. In sharpening care should be taken so as not to have the shuttle tip flat as this will cut out the ends. CHAPTEE XIII Auxiliary Shaft For Twill Goods. When a mill is equipped for weaving plain goods only, the shedding cams are put on the pick cam shaft. If it is intended to also weave twill or sateen goods on these looms a small auxiliary shaft is added to the loom. This shaft is driven from the pick cam shaft at varying speeds according to the twill that is being made on the loom. ■ If a three harness drill is being made the aux- iliary shaft has to be driv- en so that one revolution of the shaft will be eaual to three picks, or if a four- harness drill is being made, one revolution will be equal to four picks. Fig. 29 shows the connection between the pick cam shaft and the aux- iliary shaft. A, represents crank shaft. B, represents pick cam shaft. Different sizes of these gears are put on the shaft as will be seen and the meshing of either of these gears will drive the auxilliary shaft at a differ- ent speed, according to the Fiflure 29. number of cams being used. jyTtaTn. 7oTs£T«. " * -3 o to Finn U Aw.*- TTO- C*HS. 3 JfcLO Teeth Practical Loom Fixing 47 A fixed gear is usually set on the auxilliary shaft. When plain goods have to be made the gear on pick cam shaft will have to be the same size as the gear on auxilliary shaft, since auxilliary shaft has to travel the same speed as the pick cam shaft, namely, one revolution of the auxilliary shaft to two revolutions of crank shaft. Example to Find Gear Required. A loom has to be changed over from plain cloth to four-harness twill. Gears on loom as follows: On end of crank shaft 35 teeth; on end of pick cam shaft 70 teeth; on auxiliary shaft 60 teeth. What size gear required to drive auxiliary shaft? Rule: Multiply driven gears together for a dividend. Multiply driver gears by twill required for a divisor. Divide one by the other and the answer will be gear required. 70X60 =30 tooth gear required. 35X4 By substituting in rule the gear on pick cam shaft that is meshed in gear on auxiliary shaft, the number of picks in one revolution of auxil- iary shaft will be found. Example: Gear on end of crank shaft 35 teeth; on end of pick cam shaft 70 teeth; on pick cam shaft driving auxiliary shaft 40 teeth; on auxiliary shaft 60 teeth. How many picks in one revolution of auxil- iary shaft? 70X60 =3 picks, or cams for three harness drill. 35X40 Changes Required. When changing over from plain goods to twills or sateens several changes have to be made. These are as follows: New harness rolls; additional treadles; additional jack sticks and straps; gear to drive auxil- iary shaft. If a vibrating whip roll had been used for plain goods, it would be advisable to reduce the vibration for the following reason: The vibrating whip roll is used to relieve the strain on the yarn when the harness are open, for at this point the greatest strain is on the yarn. This vibrating whip roll is therefore, more desirable for plain goods than for twills or sateens because one-half the yarn in plain cloth is raised and the other half lowered at the same time. In twills and sateens some harness are changing while others are stationary so that the vibrating whip roll is not of as great value as on plain cloth. Timing of Twill or Sateen Cams. When two harness shafts are being changed, that is, one raised and one lowered, the crank shaft should be just past bottom center when they are level or just passing each other. The timing of this motion can often very easily be changed as an intermediate or carrier gear is used to transmit motion from the gear on pick cam shaft to gear on auxiliary shaft. By moving this carrier gear out of position, the cams can be set at any desired point in relation to crank shaft. Roll and Spring Top. Twills and sateens are usually made on either roll or spring top. Fig. 30 illustrates roll top for three and four harness; als"> a spring top 48 Practical Loom Fixing similar to that which is used on the Draper loom. The rolls shown in illustration are di- rectly over the har- ness th o u g h on many looms these rolls are on one side of the loom, arch. The principle of operation is the same whether the rolls are directly above or to one side of the loom. These rolls require careful adjustment or the straps will lap under and this causes the harness to jump. With the spring top this trouble is entirely a voi d e d and it is an ex- cellent motion. If the treadles are set correctly to the shedding cams and are in contact I with the cams for Figure 30. the whole of the revolution, there is no difficulty whatever with this motion and good results are obtained. In all cases, whether rolls or spring tops, there must be correct setting of the harness and treadle balls, otherwise the harness will not receive the easy movement that is neces- sary for good weaving. CHAPTER XIV LOOM FIXING POINTS. Under different heads the various causes of loom being out of order will be given, together with remedies for same. A loom fixer's duty is to keep the looms under his charge in good repair so as to produce the maximum production of first quality goods. LOOM BANGING OR SLAMMING. This is what a loom fixer is called for in a large number of cases. There are quite a number of causes for this, which will be enumerated. Late Pick This is generally caused by lug straps slipping. The straps should be closed in so that the pick will start on time. The correct timing of picking motion is to have shuttle begin to move when crank is on top center. Late pick is sometimes caused by pick cam slipping. The cam will have to be reset on time. Practical Loom Fixing 49 Weak Pick. When the picking motion is on time and the shuttle is not picked hard enough so as to get in shuttle box on opposite side in time, the pick has to be made stronger. This can be done in two ways. First, by lowering lug strap on picker stick. Second, by lowering driving arm, or dog on driving arm. Either of these methods can be used, but care should be taken so as not to have the lug straps at extremes. See Chapter Four. Cracked or Part Broken Lug Strap. When the lug strap is cracked or part broken, much of the force of the blow is lost causing a weak pick. This should be replaced with a new strap. Cracked Picker Stick. A weak pick is often made with a cracked picker stick. It is best to replace such a picker stick with a new one as soon as possible. One cause of picker stick cracking is by having the shuttle held too hard in the shuttle box, so that when beginning to pick, the picker stick is bent and when this occurs, neither the picker stick or shuttle lasts long. The shuttle should not be held too tight in the box, only sufficient to have the dagger clear the frog, and also to keep it from rebounding. Fig. 31 illustrates by dotted, lines,, how. aj picker stick is bent J when shuttle is held too tight in shuttle box. Picker sticks are cracked and broken when the stick strikes too hard against the front end of the box. A buffer should al- ways be used to pro- tect both the picker and the picker stick. This buffer is some- times made of leather; also of cloth wound tightly in a roll and put in the front end of race. The picker striking the buffer in- stead of the solid end of the race increases the life of the picker stick and also the picker, because the hard blow on picker and picker stick is re- duced. Picker sticks should be made from hickory, cut straight with the grain. Poor quality picker sticks will more easily bend as shown in illustration. Figure 31. 50 Practical Loom Fixing Rebounding Shuttle. A rebounding shuttle is one that strikes hard against the picker and rebounds back in the box. Some looms, with the slightest rebound will bang off, while others will continue to run. This depends on the pick from that side on which shuttle has rebounded. With a rebound- ing shuttle, a weak pick is made because of the loss of the initial move- ment in picking, that is, before the picker comes in contact with the shuttle, and the shuttle is not driven hard enough to get full into the opposite box and loom bangs. There are four causes of rebounding shuttle: First, pick too strong. Second, insufficient check. Third, loose box. Fourth, protector finger slip- ped. First, if pick is too strong, shuttle will rebound and the pick must be reduced by raising lug strap on picker stick or by raising the driving arm. Second, when a shoulder swell is used and there is not sufficient check on the shuttle, it will almost invariably rebound unless the shuttle box is very tight and that should not be. If the picker stick is fixed so as to remain about two or three inches in the shuttle box and the pick is not too strong, the shuttle should not rebound. (See Chapter Five). With a gradual tapered shuttle and binder the check finger on protector rod should be set to hold the shuttle in position when it gets to the back end of the box. When the shuttle is almost full into the box the check finger should be in contact with the lay sole. (See Chapter Ten, Protection Motion.) Third, if the box is loose the only remedy is to tighten up the box. Fourth, When protector finger slips there is lost motion between the finger and binder, and this allows the shuttle to shoot into the box and rebound. In resetting the finger in correct posi- tion, care will have to be taken that the dagger is full in the frog and frog in position it will be when loom is running, so that the dagger will clear the frog with shuttle in box and will strike full in frog when shuttle is not in box. Loose Picker Stick. If the picker stick and parallel are not fastened securely together a weak pick is made owing to lost motion. The remedy is to tighten up the bolt that holds the two together. Belt Slipping. A slipping belt often causes loom to bang. The belt should be thoroughly cleaned and a good belt dressing applied. Lost Motion in Gone. This is caused by neglecting to oil the cone with the result that the cone wears and becomes loose on its stud and a weak pick results. The only remedy is to replace with a new cone. Neglecting to oil will also cause a flat place to be made on the out- side of cone because the pick point strikes the same place on each pick. This occasionally causes a weak pick and loom bangs off. Change of Atmosphere. If there has been a sudden change from dry to damp weather the boxes will become sticky and damp. Shuttle will not fit correctly in the box and loom will bang off. To remedy, take a piece of waste and wipe shuttles and boxes thoroughly dry. If this does not immediately remedy, take a piece of fine sand-paper and rub the shuttle. It is advisable to rub both shuttles so as to keep them the same width. The very smallest drop of oil put on the binder with the finger after cleaning with waste will often remedy. -Practical Loom Fixing 51 Lug Strap Too Far From Picker Stick. Sometimes the lug strap is too far from back of picker stick, allow- ing top much play. The pick may begin on time, but the cone will have traveled too far up the pick point and in this way a soft pick is made. The remedy is to tighten up the lug straps so as to reduce the space be- tween picker stick and strap, then set picking cam back and in this way the full pick point will be used for the pick. Shedding Cams Too Early. If shedding cams are set too early, the shed will be closing before the shuttle gets full across the lay with the result that, the shed is often closed on the back end of shuttle and shuttle is tilted as it enters the box The result is that the shuttle does not get full into the box and loom bangs off. This also causes the shuttle to be chipped, and the tip is also often blunted. Shedding Cams Too Late. If shedding cams are set too late, the shuttle will enter the shed before it is full open and in this way will be retarded in its movement and loom will bang off occasionally. Worn Pick Point. By continued use the pick point will wear off and the force of the blow reduced. Frequently when this occurs extra pick is added by low- ering the lug strap, but when the pick point is badly worn it is advisable to replace with a new one. Neglecting to oil the pick cam and cone causes the pick point to wear off sooner. LOOM STOPPING. The essential difference between loom banging and loom stopping is that in loom banging the loom stops with a jar while in loom stopping the shipper handle slips out of the shipper handle stand and loom stops easily. In the majority of cases when the loom stops, the trouble can generally be located with the filling fork and filling fork motion though there are other causes of loom stopping. Some of the causes of loom banging will also cause loom to stop. In setting the filling fork have shuttle in shuttle box on filling fork side of loom. Push filling fork slide as far forward as it will go and have crank on front center. The prongs of filling fork should then be in the grate. Care must be taken that the prongs of the fork pass clear into the grate. If the prongs touch the grate the loom will, in some cases, stop with filling not broken, and in others will run when filling is broken. The bottom of the prongs of fork should not touch the lay sole when fork is raised as this will cause loom to stop. When the fork has been correctly set, and the crank on front center, the stop motion cam should be set so that the elbow lever will be just passing under the catch on fork. Sometimes a little later setting is preferable, that is, have crank just past front center with elbow lever just passing under catch on fork. If loom stops and fork is set correctly then something else is the cause. Other causes of loom stopping are as follows: Rebounding Shuttle. When a shuttle rebounds in the box the filling becomes loose. In- stead of the fork being raised, the loose filling is forced through the grate and the catch on fork is caught by the elbow lever and loom is stopped. 52 Practical Loom Fixing Filling Catching on Fork. A rebounding shuttle will also cause filling to catch on fork because the filling is loose. If the prongs of the fork stand out too far or are too short the filling will catch on them. This holds down the catch on fork so that the elbow lever coming in contact with same stops the loom. If the filling catches on fork and does not stop the loom at once, the catch on fork will be raised up and if filling should run out or break the loom will not stop until the filling that is caught on the fork, breaks. The prongs of fork should be either straight or slightly concave, for with tbis shape, filling is not as liable to catch. Fork Too Far Through Grate. This will cause the fork to be lifted too high and the result is that after dropping, the fork rebounds and the catch on fork is caught by the elbow lever and loom is stopped. This occasionally causes the filling 10 become slack and catch on the fork. Not Sufficient Friction on Filling in Shuttle. If there is not sufficient friction on filling in shuttle, the filling will be slack and the fork will not be raised. A piece of flannel or felt inserted near the eyelet in shuttle will generally overcome this defect. Filling Slipping Up or Down on Fork. As the fork is passing through the grate, the filling sometimes slips either up or down the fork. This depends on the shape of the fork. When possible a straight prong fork should be used and if filling should slip on same two or three notches can be made in the prongs just about where the filling should be held. These notches must not be sharp or they will cut the filling. Wrong Timing of Stop Motion Cam. If stop motion cam is set too early, the elbow lever comes in contact with the catch on fork and loom is stopped. If cam is set too late, the fork will have been raised and have dropped back again in time for elbow lever to come in contact with catch on fork and stop loom. Crooked Running Shuttle. A crooked running shuttle will sometimes touch the fork in passing and this causes the fork to jump. The result is that the catch on fork drops in front of elbow lever and if lever is being moved outwards by the stop motion cam the loom is stopped. A late pick will sometimes have this effect, the back end of the shuttle touching the fork as shuttle passes into the box. Stand For Shipper Handle Worn. If the shipper handle stand is worn, the shipper handle will slip cut and loom will stop. This only occurs on old looms, but the stand will bave to be fixed so that the shipper handle will fit securely in it. Occasional Rubbing of Dagger Against Frog. When the lay comes forward to beat up the filling, the dagger should make a full clearance of the frog. Sometimes the dagger rubs against the frog, not enough to make the loom bang off, but enough to gradually push off the shipper handle. This can be seen by looking at the end of dagger, which will be worn and polished by coming m con- tact with the frog. To remedy this, the dagger and protector fingers will have to be reset. In resetting the dagger have frog in position it will be when loom is running. Bring lay forward and have dagger full in frog. The protector fingers should then be set full against the binders. When shuttle is in box, the end of binder should be clear from box Practical Loom Fixing 53 about one-half to five-eighths of an inch. In setting the dagger and pro- tector fingers, if frog is not in the position it will be when loom is running, but is back from that position, the dagger will strike too high and will often cause a smash. CHAPTER XV SHUTTLE FLYING OUT. Shuttle flying out of the loom is probably the most dangerous thing in weaving. However, shuttles do not fly out very often, considering the vumber of times t*e shuttle travels across the lay, and mstj little injury is caused by them. Practically all American looms are equipped with a shuttle guard. This is attached to the lay cap so that if shuttle should fly out of the shed in passing from one shuttle box to the other, the shuttle guard will keep the shuttle from leaving the loom. This reduces the danger of flying shuttles to a minimum. The shuttle should travel straight across the lay. If there should be any obstruction in the path of the shuttle it causes shuttle to fly out. Sometimes when an end breaks it becomes entangled with the other ends behind the reed and if the shuttle should pass on top of the tangled ends it will have a tendency to fly out, especially if the cloth is being woven with a loose top shed. Sometimes the cause of a shuttle flying out is hard to locate; at other times the cause can readily be located. There are quite a number of causes of shuttle flying out, some of which will be enumerated. Overfaced Reed. The reed should always be in line with the back of box. A straight- edge should always be used to line the backs of box and reed. If the reed is in front of the back of box, or in other words is overfaced, the shuttle will almost certainly fly out. The tip of the shuttle is turned outwards on delivery and shuttle shoots out. Overfaced reed can some- times be remedied by adjustment of the lay cap so as to have the reed ki line with back of box. Sometimes only the ends of reed are overfaced. This is due to the loom fixer using the hammer or wrench on the ends of reed to prevent overfaced reed, but when reed is turned around an overfaced reed is made and the ends of reed have again to be knocked back into line. The ends of a reed should never be knocked back, but should be lined up accurately with the straight-edge. The reed should be perfectly straight and smooth from one end to the other, and should not be dinged at any point, as this will cause a crooked running shuttle. Neither should any reed wires protrude in front as this will have a tendency to cause the shuttle to fly out. Underfaced Reed. An underfaced reed is one in which the end of reed is behind the back of box. This causes the shuttle to run zigzag across the lay and also causes shuttle to fly out. As in overfaced reed, the reed should lined accurately with back of box. This defect will also cause the shuttle to be chipped on the back as it is entering the box. Yarn too High Off Race Plate. If the yarn is too high off the race plate, the shuttle will be raised H 3 a 3 •Z4- " VVlnAr 4 / * -4. R*.J 3 e, 3 --2+ " ASC _x _x _x XX >? x 1 = 2 _x X X **_ x"x"~ xx-- D L Slot Figure 41 Figure 44. Practical Loom Fixing 69 3rd Box Black — 2 picks . . 3rd Box Black — 2 picks . . 3rd Box Black — 2 picks . . 4th Box Green — 12 picks. 3rd Box Black — 2 picks . . 3rd Box Black — 2 picks . . 3rd Box Black— 2 picks . . 2nd Box Red — 12 picks.. 2nd Box Red — 12 picks . . 1st Box White— 2 picks. 1st Box White— 2 picks. 2nd Box Red — 12 picks . . 2nd Box Red — 12 picks.. c c c c i c c c MS c I I Q= I I T ' ' ■n E2 n I E3 i i 1 ' ■ C3 t Fiffiire 42. 70 Practical Loom Fixing are several makes of this motion, one being illustrated at Fig 43. A double cam A is fixed on the pick cam shaft. This cam revolves between the two levers B and G, which are pivoted at D. A locking lever E is mounted on a stud on the upper lever B at G, said lever E locking with arm E 1 , mounted on stud F in lower lever C. A catch slide H is attached fo the top end of the locking lever F. The cylinder connecting rod J is attached to the lower end of the cylinder lever G. The catch slide works forward and backward through a slotted sliding bar K, which is supported by a bracket to the side of loom. The slotted bar is illus- trated in Fig. 44. Figure 43. Operation of Motion.— A rod extends the full width of breast beam. On one end of the rod a finger is attached which is in contact with the filling fork slide, and on the other end of rod the finger L is attached. When loom is running, the cam A revolves with the shaft, the larger of Practical Loom Fixing 71 the two surfaces operating under top lever B. The two levers, B and C, are held together through the combined action of the spring and locking lever, so that when top lever is raised the bottom lever is also raised. The cylinder connecting rod J is therefore raised, which forces over the chain barrel through pawl D, Fig. 40, page 67 — and at the same time gives a forward movement to the catch slide H, which passes through the slot in sliding bar. The small cam will draw back the levers. When filling breaks, the filling fork slide forces back the finger which is in contact with it, and this raises finger L, at the same time raising the slotted sliding bar K. As the catch slide H comes in contact with the bottom of slot the forward movement is stopped. This forces back locking lever E and causes the lever to turn on its pivotal support G, against the action of the spring, allowing the arm B to be raised by the movement of cam while the arm C remains stationary, and the action of connecting arm J on the chain barrel is immediately arrested. Timing of Still Box Motion. — With lay on front center and shuttle in single box end, the cam should begin to move forward the catch slide H. Breakage Preventers. The breakage preventer in the box motion consists of a spring bolt, which holds the top of the sliding finger shaft box in position. This is a spring on an ordinary bolt and is of sufficient strength to keep the top of box in position when everything is in good working order. The empty spaces of the star gear and small segment gears should be directly oppo- site each other, so that the large gear can revolve without coming in con- tact with the small gear, but if from any cause the small gear should be turned over so that the large gear connects when it ought not to, the top of the sliding finger shaft box will be forced up, and this will prevent the breaking of teeth in gears and also the top of the sliding finger shaft box from being broken. • The small gear turning over farther than it ought to is often caused b:v a weak spring on the spring lever. On the back of each cam are four projecting pins and a spring lever is held on two of the pins, which, ,if of sufficient strength, will prevent the cam from moving out of posi- tion after being changed, but if the spring is weak the small gear will partly turn over and be caught by star gear. Spring lever is shown at K, Fig. 38, page 64. Another breakage preventer is in the form of a spring clamp. The stud in end of lifting rod D, Fig. 38, by which the boxes are raised and lowered, is held by a spring clamp. Fig. 45 illustrates an end view of the boxes and spring clamp with the stud in clamp marked' A. If the shuttle should be trapped between lay sole and boxes as boxes are being raised or lowered, the stud will be forced out of its position and no dam- age will be done to either shuttle or shuttle boxes. This figure also illustrates the shuttle trapped between shuttle box and lay sole as box is being lowered. It will readily be seen that unless the stud was forced out cf position either the shuttle or shuttle box would be broken. If the picker or anything else should get stuck in boxes the same thing will occur. Shuttle Check Cam. On some box looms a shuttle check cam is used. This is a small cam about three inches in length and extends about one-half inch beyond the surface of the pick cam on the drop box side of the loom. When crank 72 Practical Loom Fixing is on back center the pick cone should be in center of cam and the lug straps set to hold the picker stick not more than one inch on the spindle. CHAPTEE XX GINGHAM LOOM FIXING POINTS. Shuttles. — All shuttles must be as near the same size, shape and weight as it is possible to get them or good results cannot be obtained. The single box has to be fitted to all the shuttles, and if one shuttle is very much different from Vile others there will be trouble in running same. The shuttles should not be too large or they will chip through striking the mouthpiece of the box. Neither should they be too small or the picker race will cut the shuttle at the top. Figure 45. Binders. — The binders should be bent to grip the shuttle about half- way, also to give a gradual check to the shuttle as it enters the box. The Hat end of binder should not be set full against the box, as there is Figure 46 always more or less loose filling when shuttle is leaving the box, and if the end is full against the box there is a tendency to cut the filling. It is only necessary to have the extreme end of binder against the box. This is illustrated at Fig. 46. A shows how the end of binder is against the mouthpiece of box. B shows the end of binder flat against the mouthpiece of box. Arrow indicates where filling will get between binder and mouthpiece of box. Practical Loom Fixing 73 Sharp Edges in Boxes. — In starting up a new set of boxes it is ad- visable to take off all sharp edges with a very fine file. The groove in swell must be perfectly smooth, as any sharp edges will cut the filling. The sharp edges of picker race should be taken off or shuttle will be cut. Figure 47. Shuttles Working Loose in Box.— When large patterns are made in which a shuttle is used only occasionally, there is a tendency for this shuttle to work forward in the box with the result that when shuttle is picked across the lay the loom will bang off. To overcome this the swell 74 Practical Loom Fixing should grip the shuttle about half-way and shuttle should be held firmly in box, but not too tight. The boxes should work freely in the slides, but should not be loose or they will swing about and this has a tendency 10 cause the shuttle to gradually move to the front of box. The picking motion must also be set to give an easy pick. Putting on New Picker. — When a new picker is put on it must be perfectly true. If warped in any way, good results cannot be obtained irom it. The picker must work free on spindle and in the picker race. A small hole is often made in the picker where the shuttle strikes. A good bunter should always be kept on the spindle, as this saves the picker and stud from the jar that would otherwise be given when picker strikes the spindle stud. Bunters are made in different ways, but a serviceable one is made from a strip of leather with spindle holes cut in it about two and one-half or three inches apart. A leather washer can also be put on the spindle between the holes. Guide Plate. — Fig. 47 illustrates the setting of picker to guide plate. When the picker is at the back end of box, the face of picker should be flush with the guide plate. This is shown at A and this setting allows the shuttle boxes to change without in any way affecting the shuttle. If the face of picker is not flush with guide plate, but is too far back in box the shuttle will also be too far back and when boxes are changing, the tip of shuttle will strike the guide plate. This will cause the shuttle tip to become flat on the end. It will also cause the guide plate to be worn. The boxes are also apt to skip and sometimes cause a smash. This is illustrated at B. When the face of picker is too far out in the box the back end of shuttle will be caught on the picker when boxes are being raised or lowered. This will also cause the boxes to skip and shuttle to fly out or cause a smash. This setting is illustrated at C. A buffer is used on the back end of spindle and also in the back end of box, and by regulating this, the face of the picker can be made flush with the guide plate. These buffers also reduce the jar when the shuttle strikes the picker. The buffer in the back end of box can be made from cloth in the form of a roll, or can be made of leather. Setting the Boxes. — The boxes must be set so that the bottom of each box will be level with race plate. If this is not done there will be con- siderable trouble with shuttles chipping and also flying out. The first or top box is adjusted by set nuts at the bottom of lifting rod. The second box is adjusted by the stud in slot at front end of lifting lever. The third and fourth boxes are adjusted by the stud in slot at back end of lifting lever, also by crank E, Fig. 38, page 64. No positive rule can be given to set the boxes. Each box has to be set separalely, beginning with the top box. If, in changing from one box to another, the boxes do not come level with the race plate after setting first box, the leverage is not equally divided. By moving the studs in slot of lifting lever backward or forward according to whether the boxes are too high or too low, the right leverage will be obtained. Any change in either of the studs will correspondingly change the position of boxes. To illustrate the difference in leverage when raising the boxes refer fo Fig. 38. When a change is made from first to second box the single box cam C is turned. This brings the largest part of cam on top with the fulcrum of lifting lever at the back end of lever. To change from first to third box the crank E is turned. This brings the fulcrum of lifting lever on the single box cam with the cam in its normal position, that is the largest part of cam at bottom. To change from first to fourth Practical Loom Fixing 75 box both cams have to be turned. This will change the position of the tulcrum on lifting lever. From this it will be seen that as the position of the fulcrum changes there can be no hard and fast rules given to set the boxes, but judgment must be used in setting them. The boxes must either be perfectly level, or the back end elevated a trifle with the front end level with the race plate. Under no circumstances must the back end of the box be lower than the front end. Boxes Skipping. — If the links on chain are not set right the chain will have a tendency to bind. The link should be put on the bars so as to have them alternate; that is, one outside and the next inside, on both sides of the chain to correspond. Fig. 42, page 69, illustrates this method of putting on the links. Short or bent links will cause the chain to ride on the barrel, instead of dropping in the notches. Double-sliding finger not working freely will cause the boxes to skip. It is necessary that this finger be kept well oiled, in fact, the whole motion must be kept well lubricated. CHAPTER XXI DOBBY HEAD MOTION. Two kinds of dobbies used in cotton mills are known as single action dobby and double action dobby. The single action has a closed shed, but the double action has an open shed. In a single action, the harness returns to the bottom of the shed every pick. These machines Figure 48. are not used very extensively, but where they are used, fancy lenos are generally made on them. This dobby has several disadvantages, the principal one is that the loom cannot run very fast because of the time required to change the harness from one pick to another. Another disadvantage is that the filling has to be beaten up into the cloth in a closed shed. The dobby that is most extensively used at the present time is the double action dobby. This dobby is often referred to as 76 Practical Loom Fixing double index or single index dobby. The working parts of both are practically the same, the actual difference between them will be ex- plained under separate headings. DOUBLE INDEX DOBBY. A sketch of the working parts of a double index dobby is given at Fig. 48. The following are the names given to the different parts: A, harness lever. B, B 1 are the jack hooks. C, jack. D, connection of jack with harness lever. E, needles. F, rod which passes through all the harness levers. G, rod on which the ends of all the harness levers work. H, H\ knives. J, J\ index fingers. K, rod which passes through all the index fingers. L, chain barrel. The harness lever A has a num- ber of notches on the top. These notches are for the purpose of regu- lating the lift on the harness shafts. Each harness shaft is connected to a harness lever by a wire loop and harness strap. The loop is put in one of the notches. For front harness shafts the loops are put in notches near the bottom and are stepped higher in the notches for back harness. The reason for this being that the back harness shafts have ta travel a greater distance than the front harness shafts in order to make the same size of shed. Rod F, which passes through all the har- ness levers, is fixed outside the frame of dobby. Its purpose is to keep the harness levers in contact with the rod G, and also to prevent the bottom of the levers from jumping when levers are being raised. The index finger J is in contact with the top jack B through the needle E, but the finger J 1 is directly in contact with the bottom jack hook B 1 . SINGLE INDEX DOBBY. A sketch of the working parts of a single index dobby is given at Fig. 49. In comparing this sketch with Fig. 48 it will be seen that the only difference between them is in the method of operating the jack hooks through the index fingers. In this dobby one index finger operates two jack hooks, the bottom jack hook by being directly in contact with the finger and the top jack hook in contact through the needle E. The top of the needle is directly under top jack hook and the bottom of the needle fits into a small groove at the end of the index finger, so that when the finger is raised both hooks are lowered at the same time, and one of them will be caught on the knife that is moving outward on that pick. Stated briefly, the distinctive difference between the two dobbies is as follows: In a single index dobby, one index finger operates both top and bottom jack hooks. The chain bar is turned over every pick, as each bar represent only one pick. In a double index dobby, one index finger is required for every jack hook. The chain bar is turned over once on every two picks as each bar represents two picks. There are twice as many index fingers in a double index dobby as there are in a single index dobby. OPERATING DOUBLE INDEX DOBBY. In operating the dobby, the knives H, H 1 are connected at each end by a knife hook to a rocking arm. The knife hooks are threaded on the end so that the knives can be set in different positions. Figure 50 shows the knives connected to the rocking arm by the knife hooks. The rocking arms are fulcrumed in the center, and as one knife is coming forward the other is returning. To raise the harness shaft a peg is put in a bar in the chain. The chain is put on the chain barrel L, and the peg comes in contact with an index finger. If a peg is put under the index finger J the opposite end of the finger is lowered, because the rod K acts as a fulcrum for the fingers. This lowers the jack hook so that Practical Loom Fixing 77 when the knife comes forward, the catch on the hook is caught on the knife and the harness lever and harness shaft is raised. This is clearly- seen in Fig. 48. A peg is placed in the chain bar under the index linger J, which lowers the top jack hook over the knife H. As the knife comes forward, it catches the hook and pulls the jack and harness lever to position indicated by dotted lines. In many dobbies the rocking arms are of different sizes. The front rocking arm is smaller than the one at the back. This is to allow greater leverage on the back harness. Driving Dobby. — The dobby can be driven either from the crank shaft or pick cam shaft. When driven from pick cam shaft a driving rod is connected from rocking arm in dobby to a crank setscrewed on end of bottom shaft. On this drive a pawl is always used to turn over the chain barrel. When the dobby is driven from crank shaft the rocking arm is connected by a driving rod to a gear, which receives motion from gear on crank shaft of half the number of teeth, so that two revolutions of gear on crank shaft are required to make the inward and outward movement of knives in dobby. Figure 49. Driving Chain Barrel. — There are two distinct methods of driving chain barrel: First, by pawl fixed on front rocking arm. Second, by worm and worm gear. In the first method a ratchet gear is setscrewed on the front end of chain barrel shaft. This gear is pulled over by the pawl fixed to a stud in the lower portion of front rocking arm. The pawl pulls over the chain barrel when the lower portion of rocking arm is on its outward movement, so that when this driver is used each bar in chain represents two picks. The distance chain barrel is turned, can be regulated by raising or lowering pawl stud in slot of rocking arm. When stud is raised leverage is decreased, but when lowered, 78 Practical Loom Fixing leverage is increased. When a change is made in either case a corres- ponding change has often to be made with the rachet gear. The second method of driving is used on both single and double index dobbies, generally on single index. In this method motion is im- parted to the chain barrel from the crank shaft. One arrangement for single index is as follows: A gear of 30 teeth on crank shaft meshes in another gear of 60 teeth. This latter gear is setscrewed to an horizontal shaft that carries a small bevel gear on the opposite end, which meshes into another bevel gear fixed on a vertical shaft. At the top of the vertical shaft a worm is attached which drives the worm geer on chain barrel shaft. Other methods of driving are used, one of which is the use of a chain connecting crank shaft to another small shaft that carries the worm gear which drives the chain barrel. In all cases of single index drive, care is required in setting the motion so as to get the correct timing. Setting Dobby on Loom. — To set a dobby on a loom there are a few points that will require to be taken notice of. Adjust the position of the cord rollers or sheaves so that the harness shafts will be suspended an equal distance from each side of the loom. Have the front cord roller adjusted so that the front harness will be from one-half to three- quarters of- an inch behind lay cap when crank is on back center. Set the spring blocks on the floor in a line with the roller cords. This can be obtained by dropping a plumb from the rollers at the sides on which the cords work. The point thus found will be the center of spring block. Harness hooks can be put in harness shafts to correspond with plumb line. Starting Up Dobbies. — When starting up a new dobby the harness levers will have to be adjusted so that they will work free and easy. The levers can be adjusted by set-nuts on each side of the frame. Dobby is generally run before connecting up the harness straps, and in running, the levers should drop of their own weight. Every working part will require a good oiling. In a double index dobby with a worm gear drive for chain barrel, connection between driving of dobby and chain barrel will have to be specially noticed, so that both can be set together on the same pick. To illustrate: The dobby can be set so as to have either the top or bottom knife coming outward on the first pick. If the first row of pegs in the chain govern the top set of jack hooks, the driver will have to be set so that the top knife will come out on first pick. If driving is set so as to have bottom knife coming outward on first pick, a broken up pattern will result, because the second row of pegs, which is the second pick, governs the bottom jack hooks, and this will cause the harness that ought to be raised for second pick to be raised for first pick. The picks will be put in the pattern as follows: Second, first, fourth, third, sixth, fifth, and so on, which gives a ragged appearance to the pattern. Obtaining the Size of Shed.— The size of shed required on a dobby is just sufficient to allow the shuttle to pass through without chafing the yarn. The shed can be regulated generally in three different places: First, driving crank. Second, rocking arm. Third, knife hooks. On some dobbies the size of shed can only be regulated at the driving crank and knife hook. In both cases the required adjustment can generally be made. First have the harness shafts strung up to harness straps, with the springs attached underneath. Keep the yarn tight when tied to the apron and have the yarn just resting on the race plate. The reason for having the yarn just resting on the race plate is that when filling is beaten into the cloth the bottom shed is raised up a trifle. Have the Practical Loom Fixing 79 harness shafts level at both ends with the back harness shafts a little lower than the front. This is sometimes called an angular shed and is obtained by the harness levers coming in farther at the back, in other cases by increasing the length of the harness straps. Set the lower stud of driving arm about half way in the slot of the driving crank and the top stud of connecting arm also about half way in the slot. The rocking arm should be vertical when the driving crank is on front or back center and the loom crank shaft past bottom center. When the driving crank is on top center, set the top knife about one-fourth of an inch behind the catch on jack hooks. When the driving crank is on bottom center set the bottom knife the same distance behind the catch on jack hook. This adjustment is made by set nuts on the knife hooks. If this setting does not give the correct size of shed the sweep will have to be adjusted at either the driving crank or rocking arm. The object of setting the stud about half way in the slot is because that position gives a medium sweep of knives. If the shed is found to be too small the connecting stud will be brought to the outer end of slot in driving c^ank. This will give a. larger sweep, therefore a larger shed, but in consequence of this larger sweep, when the driving crank is on top and bottom centers the knives will be too far behind the catch on jack hooks. It is also possible that this change of sweep may pull the knives too far back, so that they will strike the back end of the knife slide. In either case the knives will have to be re-adjusted by the set nuts on knife hooks. If the shed is too large and a smaller shed is made it is possible that the knives may not get back of the catches on jack hooks, and will have to be re-adjusted in just the opposite way to the former. Fig. 50 illustrates the three positions where adjustment in size of shed can be made, indicated by figures 1, 2, 3. Pattern Chain Pegging. — In pegging chains, two items have to be taken into consideration: First, whether loom is right or left-hand. Second, the direction chain barrel revolves. It is necessary that these two items be known, especially the first, for the following reason: If loom is right-hand, the dobby will be on left-hand side; but if loom is left-hand, dobby will be on right-hand side. If chain has been pegged tor dobby on right-hand loom it will not work on a dobby on left-hand loom unless turned round and last bar used for first. On some patterns this does not make much difference, but on others it does. It is advis- able to have one system and adhere to it, namely, always begin with first harness on one side for all chain plans made. If this is done the chain can be made from chain plan with simple instructions. To illustrate: Have first harness shaft on right-hand side; also have first pick in chain plan on top. On a right-hand loom, chain will be pegged from right to left, reading from first harness. On a left-hand loom, chain will be pegged from left to right, reading from first harness. If this system is used it is only necessary to state whether loom is right or left-hand. These instructions are for chain barrel revolving inward towards the loom. For an outward revolving chain barel, it will be necessay to state this in giving instructions, as R. H. out, and chain will be pegged opposite to inward revolving chain barrel. Requirements of a Good Dobby.— The dobby that is the simplest in its construction where the different parts can be taken out easily to be repaired will be the best to use, everything else being equal. All the different parts of the dobby should be made in their right proportion. The index finger, hooks, needles, should all work free with each other. Especial notice should be taken of the index fingers. See that these fingers are cast straight and smooth, otherwise they will rub against 80 Practical Loom Fixing each other and miss-picks will result. This occurs occasionally in a double index dobby. When this is the case the fingers will have to be taken out and finished off on the emery wheel to take all the rough places off them. A dobby that will require all this work doing to it Figure 50. when new is certainly not the dobby to select. Another requirement is that the dobby be of the right capacity with the loom, that is, if the loom is only adapted for a twelve harness dobby, it certainly is not wise to put on the loom a twenty or twenty-four harness dobby. If this is done, every time the lay goes back it will strike the harness shafts and cause them to vibrate. This will result in poor weaving, the harness shafts will be continually catching on each other and making miss-picks and smashes, also if the harness straps are not securely fastened to the hooks, the shafts will be continually dropping and making smashes. To use a dobby of a capacity of twenty to twenty-four harness shafts there should be at least ten inches between lay and crank shaft when lay is en back center. This is allowing the harness shafts to be about three- eighths of an inch thick. PREPARATION OF HARNESS SHAFTS. In preparing harness shafts there are several small details which if properly attended to will help very materially the production and quality of cloth. These details can be enumerated as follows: Do not allow the heddles to get rusty. Rub heddle rods evenly with tallow or oil, or a mixture of tallow and oil. This allows the heddles to slide free on the rods. Put all heddles on shaft the same, that is do not put on some heddles with twisted ends on top and other heddles on same shaft with twisted ends at bottom. Have the twisted ends of the heddles on all shafts the same, that is, have all on top or all on bottom. Have only one counts of heddles on a shaft, do not mix fine and coarse heddles together. Heddles must work free on heddle rods. The hooks tl;at support the heddle rod must not be too deep in the shaft or the cods will hold the heddles tight and they will not move freely. Have all hooks for heddle rods facing the front. Have heddle rods secured on both ends of the harness shaft. This must be especially noticed, as a smash often results through heddle rods slipping out. Have harness hooks on top of harness shafts set in line. Have harness hooks set so that there will be a straight and an even pull on the springs. Pracical Loom Fixing 81 CHAPTER XXII DRAWING IN THE WARP. Have the harness shafts suspended in front of drawing -in frame with heaviest weaving harness in front. This is the general method of arranging the harness. For example, if a plain and fancy stripe is being made, the plain harness shafts will be on front. If single beam, have slasher comb or lease level with heddle eyes. If two or more beams, al- ways put yarn from bottom beam over top of drawing in frame first, then yarn from the other beams to follow. Have a rod between the threads from each beam to keep them separated. There are two methods of arranging the combs. First. Have the combs on the top of each other. The comb for bottom beam will be on top with the other combs underneath. This brings the yarns from top beam in front of the yarn from bottom beam. This method does not take up much space. Second. Have all the combs level. The back comb will be from bottom beam with the other combs in front. Put up harness shafts in right order, then have warp drawn in. On many patterns the harness shafts can be divided into sections to have the warp drawn in. Take, for example, fancy stripe to be made on plain ground. Harness shafts for plain will fce in front, harness shafts for fancy stripe will be at back. To divide in sections, leave off the plain harness shafts and draw in fancy stripe, keeping each stripe separate. Put up the harness shafts for plain and draw in the plain threads. When the required number of threads have been drawn in on plain harness shafts for one pattern, pull the threads for one fancy stripe through plain harness shafts. Repeat this until all the warp is drawn in. It must be understood that this cannot be done on all patterns, only on those patterns in which the threads from each beam forms a stripe with all threads together. When warps are to be drawn in without a hander in, the drawing-in hand begins on right-hand side; with a hander in, on left-hand side. When all threads are drawn through heddles, draw the warp in reed. If reed is too wide, divide the space equally on both ends. STARTING UP THE WARP. Have the loops on harness levers in dobby stepped, that is, the front loops in lowest notches; raising the other loops in notches in the same proportion. Bring the beams from the drawing in frame on beam truck provided for that purpose. Support the harness shafts between crank shaft and lay on two rods, then put beams in loom. Hang the harness on harness straps. Attach the springs to bottom of harness shafts care- fully. This is very important, especially when using fine yarns. It is also necessary to have the same strength of spring on each side of the shaft. One method of testing springs is as follows: Have a straight piece of wood about one yard in length with a screw in one end and at the other end lines ruled about half an inch apart with the lines num- bered. Take each spring separately, put one end on screw and suspend & weight on opposite end. This will pull out the spring a certain dis- tance, which will be indicated by the lines. Lay together all springs of the same strength, take springs to loom and connect the strongest springs to the heaviest harness shaft; that is, the harness shaft that has on it the most heddles and has the heaviest lift. Have whip roll level with harness eyes so that there will be an equal strain on the yarn when shed is open. Fix reed in lay sole and tighten up the lay cap. Pat friction rope around beam heads to prevent from turning. Set the harness shafts so that the back shafts will be a little lower than the front. Both ends of the shafts should be level. Have the yarn jusc 82 Practical Loom Fixing resting on the race plate. When weaving the yarn will be raised from off the race plate somewhat. Tie in the threads carefully to an apron. On fine yarns do not tie in too many ends at one time, as it is necessary to have every thread drawn tight before tieing to apron, otherwise threads will be broken out. Divide the heddles equally in sections made by heddle rod hooks. If the heddles are not divided equally more will be left on one side than the other, and as a result the heddles are pulled out of their true posi- tion at the heddle rod hooks, which will cause the heddles to be crowd- ed at this point so that when the harness shafts are being raised and lowered the threads are chafed. This is illustrated at Fig. 51. Put. in the lease rods. For large rod, raise back harness shaft and every alter- A <&&T<trives to keep down cost of supplies. Reports. The various weave room reports should be made out each clay, such as weavers out; looms stopped and cause for same; warps out; cuts woven, etc. An estimate should be made of the number of warps that will run out during the coming week as this will enable the superintendent to plan his work, especially on fancy and colored goods. Examination of Cloth. The cloth as it is taken from the loom should t.e marked with the number of loom and carried to the place provided for it. Each day the cloth should be entered on the production sheet for 'he weaver and should be examined each day. By doing this the overseer can keep up with the amount of bad cloth made, the weavers who are making it and in many cases will be able to prevent the making of more bad cioth by looking into the various causes of same. The weaver is not always responsible for the bad cloth made and responsibility for same should be accurately and definitely placed. CHAPTER XXV CALCLUATIONS FOR COTTON HARNESS. The counts of cotton harness are usually calculated in two different ways. First, by having a certain number of harness eyes on a specified width. Second, by having a certain number of "biers" on a specified width. A bier has always twenty harness eyes and is indicated by a piece of twine passing over this number of eyes, generally on top of harness. Calculations for cotton harness are made for either two or four har- ness shafts, the finer grade of goods being made on four shafts. These calculations are always made to correspond with the reed, for example, if a number 30 reed has to be used then 30 eyes will be required per inch one each shaft, using two shafts. Example 1.— A sheeting fabric has to be made with 48 ends per inch, 40 inches wide. Harness eyes to be spread 42^4 inches. How many har- ness eyes on each shaft, using two harness shafts? 48X40=1920 ends in warp, without selvage ends. 1920-^2=960 eyes on each shaft. Selvage ends are added to outside ends in cloth and do not have to be used in calculation for harness eyes. Example 2.— The harness for a plain warp has to be spread 40 inches, the warp having 3360 ends. Use two harness shafts. How many eyes on each shaft? How many biers on each shaft? 3360-^2=1680 eyes on each shaft. 1680-^-20=84 biers on each shaft. Example 3.— A fine fabric has to be made with 120 ends per inch, 36 88 Practical Loom Fixing inches wide. Harness eyes to be spread 38 inches. Use four harness shafts. How many eyes on each shaft? How many biers on each shaft? 120X36=4320 ends in warp, without selvage ends. 4320-^-4=1080 eyes on each shaft. 1080-^-20=54 biers on each shaft. Frequently a fabric has to be made in which the number of ends in fabric are less than the number of eyes on harness shafts. When this occurs, the extra eyes have to be left on each side of the harness. Example 4. — A set of two harness contains 9QV4. biers on 40 inches on each shaft. The warp to be drawn through this harness has 3744 ends. How many eyes will have to be left over and how left over? 96 1 /4X20=1925 eyes on each shaft. 3744-^2=1872 ends to be drawn through each shaft. 1925 — 1872=53 eyes to be cast out or left over. 53-^2=26 eyes on one side, 27 eyes on the other to be left out. When a mill is making only one or two grades of standard goods there is little difficulty in keeping a supply of harness shafts on hand. In mills that make a variety of styles it sometimes happens that when an order is received for a fabric of a certain construction, the correct counts of harness are not on hand and will have to be ordered. Often, to save time, an old set of harness can be used until the new harness shafts are ready. This can only be done when there is a smaller number of ends in the new cloth than there are harness eyes in the old harness. If there are more ends in the new cloth than in the old cloth, new harness shafts will have to be obtained. When using an old set of harness shafts in which there are 'more eyes than there are ends in the new cloth, the extra eyes will have to be left over at different points across the harness. It is not advisable to leave too many empty eyes at one place. Example 5. — A new cloth has to be made with 1792 ends, the harness eyes to be spread 30 inches. The old harness to be used has 1104 eyes on 30 inches, on each shaft. Two harness shafts used. How many harness eyes will have to be left over? How will they bt, left over? 1792-^2=896 ends to be drawn through one shaft. 1104 — 896=208 extra eyes to be left over on each shaft. 208-^-30=6.93 or 7 eyes left over per inch on each shaft. Example 6. — A fabric has been made with 1542 ends. Harness eyes for same spread 30 inches. A new fabric is required with 1404 ends to be made on same harness. Two harness shafts. !How many eyes will be left over on each shaft? How left over? 1542—1404=138 eyes to be left over. 138-^-2=69 eyes to be left over on each shaft. 69-^30=2.3 eyes to be left over per inch; or 7 every three inches; or 2-2-3 eyes per inch on each shaft. Example 7. A fabric has to be made with 2520 ends, harness for same to be spread 30 inches. The only available harness is a set of two shafts that has 96 biers on each shaft on 40 inches. How many eyes will have to be left over on the width of harness used? How left over? How many biers to be left over at each end of harness shaft? 96X30 =72 biers on 30 inches on each shaft. 40 Practical Loom Fixing 89 72X20—1440 eyes on 30 inches on each shaft. 2520—2=1260 ends to be drawn through harness on 30 inches. . 1440 — 1260=180 eyes to be left over on each shaft on 30 inches. 180—30=6 eyes per inch to be left over on each shaft. 96 — 72=24 biers extra; 12 left over on each side of each shaft. WIRE HEDDLES. On many kinds of plain fabrics, wire heddles are now being used. Some users of these heddles claim that they get as good results as with cotton harness with the additional advantage that they do not wear out as quickly as the cotton harness; also that they can be used on any num- ber of ends in fabric by putting on each shaft the required number of heddles. The calculations for wire heddles is about the same as for ordinary cotton harness, that is the number of ends in warp divided by the num- ber of harness shafts used will give the number of heddles required on each shaft. CALCULATIONS FOR REEDS. On all reeds there is a wide strip of steel at each end, on which the number of reed is indicated. In general there are two systems of indicat- ing the number of reed. First, The number of dents per inch is stamped on the end of reed. Second, the total number of dents in reed and the width of reed is stamped on the end of reed. A third method is also used by indicating on end of reed the sley reed, that is, the number of ends per inch in the reed. In ordinary work, two ends are supposed to be drawn through each dent. The selvage ends are extra on each side and are not used in calculations. When the number of ends per inch is known and the number of ends in a dent equal, the number of reed can be readily ascertained. Example 9. — A fabric has to be made with 1584 ends, spread 28 inches in reed. 16 extra ends added for selvage. What reed used? 1584 — 16=1568 ends without selvages. 1568—28=56 ends per inch in reed. 56-2=28 reed. Example 9. — A fabric has to be made 27 inches wide with 64 ends per inch. 30 inches in reed. 24 ends extra selvage. What reed will be used? 64X27=1728 ends without extra selvage ends. 1728—2=864 dents to be spread on 30 inches. 864—30=28.8 reed. Or, can be indicated 864 — 30 which means 864 dents on 30 inches. In the production of stripe fabrics the ends are not drawn through the reed equally throughout. Some portion of the fabric may have two ends per dent, then another portion four or six ends per dent, according to the density of the stripe required or the thickness of the ends used. The following example will illustrate. Example 10. — A warp is reeded as follows : 16 dents 2 ends in a dent equals 32 ends 4 dents 4 ends in a dent equals 16 ends 14 dents 2 ends in a dent equals 28 ends 6 dents 4 ends in a dent equals 24 ends 40 dents 100 ends 100—40=2% ends per inch. Using a 20 reed, how many ends per inch 2^X20=50 ends per inch in reed. 90 Practical Loom Fixing There is always a contraction between cloth width and the width of yarn in reed. This contraction varies according to the proportion of ends to picks; sizes of yarns used; weave used and other causes. For example, there is generally more contraction on a plain weave than on a sateen weave because there are more intersections in plain weave than in sateen weave. If the warp is hard twisted and the filling soft twisted the cloth will contract more in width than in length. If the fdling is finer than the warp and soft, the cloth will contract more in width. Too much tension on the warp will make cloth longer- and narrower in width. One method of obtaining the contraction between cloth and width in reed is to take a thread from a certain length of cloth and measure same. The difference between cloth length and length of thread represents the contraction. Another method requires practice and experience to correctly esti- mate the amount of contraction. Example 11. — A cloth 30 inches wide has 64 ends per inch. Width of reed estimated at 32 inches. What number of reed will be used? 64X30—1920 ends. 1920-^2=960 dents. 960-^32=30 reed. Still another method is to make a calculation from the sley of cloth required and use a rule that will give a sliding rate of contraction. This rule is as follows: Rule: Deduct 1 from the sley, then from the answer substract 5 per cent. The answer will be sley or ends per inch in reed. Example 12. — A cloth 30 inches wide has 64 ends per inch. What number of reed will be used? 64-1=63. qC 63 — 5% =59.85 sley or ends per inch in reed. 59.85-^2=29.92 reed. It will be noticed that the answers to examples 11 and 12 are prac- tically the same. This is due to the fact that ends and picks would be pbout equal. This rule is not always pratical, but is used frequently on average constructions because of the sliding rate which decreases as the sley increases. Index 91 Page Groove in Shuttle Not Deep Enough 55 Gudgeons or Beam Spikes Bent 57 Gingham Looms 63 Gingham Loom Box Chain Building 66 Gingham Loom Fixing Points 72 Guide Plates 74 Harness Straps Lapping Under ■ 57 Harness Levers Too Tight ■. 84 Influence of in Roll on Picks Per Inch 34 Index Finger Binding 84 Jack Hook Binding 84 Lost Motion in Cone 50 Lease Rods 44 Loom Banging or Slamming 48 Late Pick 48 Loose Picker Stick 50 Lug Straap Too Far From Picker Stick 51 Loom Stopping 51 Loose Top Shed 54 Loose Crank Arm 57 Measurements for Size of Shed 17 Multiplier Motion 67 Not Sufficient Friction on Filling 52 Northrop Loom 61 Overf aced Reed 53 Operation of Motion and Boxes 64 Operating Double Index Dobby 76 Obtaining the Size of Shed 78 Plain Looms 9 Picking Motion 20 Parallel Motion 21 Protector Motion ~ 38 Pick Too Early 55 Pick Too Strong 56 Preparation of Harness Shafts 80 Pegs in Chain Bar Not Set Straight 82 Peg Too Short 8i Putting on New Picker 74 Pattern Chain Pegging 79 Relation of Picker Stick to Binder 29 Roll and Spring Top *? Rubbing of Dagger Against Frog 52 Rebounding Shuttle 54 Rebounding Shuttle 50 Race Plate Loose 55 Rope on Friction Let Off Binding 56 Setting Shedding Motion 9 Shedding Motion 9 Setting Harness Roll 1 ■'* 92 Index Page Shedding Cams 18 Setting Lug Straps 23 Setting the Pickers 24 Saving Pickers 26 Setting Picker Stick 26 Setting Take-Up Pawl 34 Setting the Motion 35 Setting the Fork 37 Shape of Fork 37 Setting Protector Fingers 40 • Setting for Reedy Cloth 40 Setting for Covered Cloth 41 Setting the Temple 44 Shuttles 45 Shedding Cams Too Early 51 Shedding Caams Too Late 51 Shipper Handle Stand Worn 52 Shuttle Flying Out 53' Sharp Eyelet in Shuttle 55 Shuttle Rising in Box 55 Sharp Filling Fork aand Grate 55 Soft Bobbin 56 Shuttle Spindle Too Small for Cop 56 Shuttle Spindle Sharp 56 Small Pinion Gear Too Deep in Beam Head 57 Still Box Motion 68 Shuttle Check Cam 71 Sharp Edges in Boxes 73 Shuttles Working Loose 73 Setting the Boxes 74 Single Index Dobby 76 Setting Dobby on Loom 78 Starting Up Dobbies s 78 Starting Up the Warp 81 Starting Up on Time , 85 System of Setting Shedding Cams 86 Setting of Whip Rolls.. 86 Supplies 87 Timing of Shedding Motion 17 Timing of Picking Motion 23 Take-Up Motion , 31 Timing of Stop Motion 38 Thin Place Preventor 38 Temples " 43 Timing of Twill or Sateen Cams 47 Temple Too Low 55 Take Up Motion Out of Order 56 The Stafford Loom 58 Index 93 Pago Timing of Box Motion 65 Timing of Still Box Motion 71 Uneven Cloth 56 Uneven Filling 57 Uneven Cloth 87 Underfaced Reed 53 Waste 86 Wire Heddles 89 Weak Pick 49 Worn Pick Point 51 Wrong Timing of Stop Motion Cam 52 Worn Picker 55 Worn Pawl and Gear in Gear Let Off 57 Weak Spring Behind Let Off Pawl 57 Worm and Worm Gear Binding 57 Warp Stop Motion 60 Warp Stop Motions 63 Wrong Setting of Chain Barrel 83 Weak Spring on Chain Barrel Shaft 84 Worn Index Finger and Index Finger Rod 85 Yarn Too High Off Race Plate 53 L S- Watson Manufacturing Co. LEICESTER, MASS., ARE THE LARGEST MANUFACTURERS OF WIRE HEDDLES and HEDDLES FRAMES. We manufacture the TWIN WIRE HEDDLES and also the DOMESTIC BRONZE WIRE HEDDLES, and have special facilities for the manufacture of IRON END HEDDLE FRAMES as well as Wooden End Heddle Frames. We are manufacturers of Hand Stripping Cards of any length and size of wire. We solicit your correspondence when in want. INDEX. Page Auxiliary Shaft for Twill Goods 46 Automatic or Labor Saving Looms 57 Arranging the Colors in Boxes 66 Binders 26 Beating Up 29 Belt Slipping 50 Boxes Too Loose 56 Box Motion 64 Breakage Preventors 71 Binders on Gingham -Looms 72 Boxes Skipping 75 Bent Connecting Links 8 1 Belts 85 Bobbins on Floor 86 Construction of Cams id Cover or Face on Cloth 40 Cost of Adding "Face" or Cover to Cloth 42 Cloth Without Face or Cover 43 Cloth With Face or Cover 43 Changes Required 47 Cracked or Part Broken Lug Strap 49 Cracked Picker Stick 49 Change of Atmosphere 50 Crooked Running Shuttle , '. 52 Crooked Ruunning Shuttle 55 Cutting and Filling 55 Care of Looms 85 Chain Barrel on Wrong Time 83 Chain Bar Too Short 84 Chain Bar Too Large 84 Chain Bars Too Far Apart 84 Chain Barrel Not Turned Over Far Enough 85 Calculations for Cotton Harness 87 Calculations for Reeds 89 Dobby Head Motion 75 Double Index Dobby 76 Driving Chain Barrel 77 Drawing in the Warp 81 Dobby Fixing Points • • • 82 Effect of Pick on the Eccentricity of Lay 31 Examination of Cloth 87 Friction Let-Off 36 Filling Stop Motion 36 Filling Slipping Up or Down on Fork 52 Fork Too Far Through Grate 52 Filling Catching on Fork 52 Filling and Bobbins Breaking 56 Gear Let-Off Motion 34 Gear Required 47 "Ideal" Automatic Looms produce strictly high-grade cloth. Practically no seconds or waste. Suitable for all manner of textile fabrics which can be made with one shuttle, plain or fancy, coarse or fine. Catalogue upon request The Stafford Company READVILLE, MASS. SOUTHERN OFFICE, CHARLOTTE, N. C, LOOMS BUILDERS OF Weaving Machinery FOR ALL KINDS OF WOVEN FABRICS Specialists in Jacquards, Dobbies, and Warp Stop Motions Grompton & Knowles Loom Works WORCESTER, MASS. PROVIDENCE, R. I. PHILADELPHIA, PA. SOUTHERN REPRESENTATIVES : ALEXANDER & GARSED CHARLOTTE, N. C. Westinghouse IP'"''" for I Voitlrs eeeeeo 'Sw/ciSmkfc- Motors Complete Electrical Equipment for Textile Mills Electricity is the best form of power for your mill. It is the most ecomical: in- creases production; improves quality; and betters working conditions. Westinghouse Textile Experts are pre- pared to give you the benefit of their ex- perience in equipping your mill from steam supply to the driven machine. -"''■-/>■ CWESTI-NGHOUStV ; ELECTRIC J yjtm 'A&ve bee. Westinghouse Electric and Manufacturing Company Atlanta East Pittsburgh, Pa. Boston Charlotte New York Philadelphia m LiiiLlLKJ lAa ©DHUGST? OES^DCa ©EtlTCTEIS for Power Transmission Link-Belt Silent Chain Drive Operating Sweater Knitters 6-H.P. Link-Belt Silent Chain Drive Operating Foster Winder meet the demand for a quiet, reliable power transmission | and tend to increase production. The method of transmitting power to the g various machines has a marked effect upon the quality of the product, the rate jj of work, the power consumption, durability of machinery, and cost of main- §{ tenance. Progressive managers have begun to realize the importance of this g element of their equipment, and by giving due consideration to the method of jj transmitting the power, have obtained vastly superior results. g Link -Belt Silent Chain is "Flexible as a Belt— Positive as a Gear— More g Efficient than Either. " fj Write for special Book No. 258 "The Ideal Drive for Textile Machinery" jj sent on request. jj Link-Belt Company PHILADELPHIA CHICAGO INDIANAPOLIS ■ New York Boston Pittsburgh St. Louis . Buffalo . Wilkes-Barre . Cleveland Detroit Minneapolis Kansas City, Mo 299 Broadway . 47 Federal St. . 1501 Park Bldg. Central National Bank Bldg. 698 Ellicott Square 2nd National Bank Bldg. . 429 Rockefeller Bldg. 732 Dime Bank Bldg, 418 S. Third St. . 407 Finance Bldg. Toronto, Can. Seattle .... 576 First Avenue, S. Portland, Ore. . . . 1st and Stark Sts. San Francisco . . . 461 Market St. Los Angeles . . . 161 N. Los Angeles St. Denver . . . Lindrooth, Shubart & Co. Louisville, Ky. Frederick Wehle, Starks Bldg. Knoxville, Tenn. . D. T. Blakey, Empire Bldg. Birmingham, McCrossin & Darrah, Am. Tr. Bldg. New Orleans, . C O. Hinz, Hibernia Bank Bldg. Charlotte, N. C . J. S. Cothran, Com'l Bk. Bldg. Canadian Link-Belt Co., Ltd. Year After Year G-B Apparatus is Selected by Mills and Manufacturers FOR the big mill additions and extensions as well as the small ones G-E apparatus has almost univer- sally been selected. This has been true year after year for a long time, until today 75 per cent of all electric power used in the textile industry passes through G-E motors. A large majority of the textile machinery manufac- turers at the big textile shows consistently select G-E motors to drive their exhibits. Where certainty of power and excellence of performance are demanded G-E motors are considered indispensable. The verdict of this highly qualified electorate merits your mature consideration. Remember the last word in motor design for each and every moving machine used in the textile industry can be obtained from our engineer salesman, who if requested, will study your local conditions before pre- scribing. General Electric Company General Office: Schenectady, N. Y. Address Nearest City Boston, Mass. New York, N. Y. Philadelphia, Pa. Atlanta, Ga. Cincinnati, Ohio Chicago, III. Denver, Colo. San Francisco, Cal. Detroit, Mich. (G.E. Co. of Mich.) St. Louis, Mo. Dallas, Tex. (So. West G.E. Co.) MORSE Chain-Driven Spinning Frames Efird Cotton Mills, Albemarle, N. G. The following are the results obtaining wherever MORSE SILENT CHAINS are used: 1. Higher and positive front roll speed. 2. Uniform twist. 3. Fewer ends down. 4. Better lighting and decreased fire risk through elimination of belts. 5. Decreased labor cost, one operator being able to handle more sides. MORSE CHAIN COMPANY, Ithaca, N. Y. Southern Representative, George W. Pritchett GREENSBORO, N. C. Allis-Chalmers Textile Motors They Meet Every Requirement For Group or Individual Drive Allis-Chalmers Manufacturing Company Milwaukee, Wisconsin Offices in all Principal Cities CANADIAN REPRESENTATIVES : CANADIAN ALLIS-CHALMERS, Ltd., TOBOSTO, ONTARIO Something About "Belt Slip" of Pulleys You know that on account of "Belt Slip," it is often necessary to speed up an engine, in order to bring the machines to their proper speed. You know that "Belt Slip" is a steady leak, that extends all the way back to the "Coal Pile." You know that "Belt Slip' ' causes the belt to wear, BUT DO YOU KNOW American Steel Split Pulley That a cast iron pulley has 100% more "Belt Slip" than an "American Steel Split Pulley." That it costs from 10% to 14% more for power, when it is transmitted by cast iron pulleys, than when "Ameri- can Steel Split Pulleys" are used* — due to the extra "Belt Slip." That "American Steel Split Pulleys" are from 40% to 60% lighter than cast iron pulleys, designed for equal service. That for main drives, or where an absolute minimum of "Belt Slip' is required, as with motor pulleys, loom, spinning and twisting pulleys, "American Steel Split Pulleys" with cork insert have 60% less "Belt Slip" than "American" pulleys with plain rims. That two of the largest and most efficiently run manufacturing plants in the United States— The Western Electric Company of Chicago, and the Ford Motor Company of Detroit- each have, over 20,000 "American Steel Split Pulleys" in service. That the greater efficiency claimed for "American Steel Split Pulleys" is based on scientific tests that have been run by reputable consulting engineers. If you have not used "American Steel Split Pulleys" write for free book "Pulley Efficiency." It gives a lot of data that will be most interesting to you. The American Pulley Company American Pulley with Cork Inserts PHILADELPHIA, PA. A Modern Lubricant for Modern Looms The world moves onward — step by step. New ideas — new methods — new men — must be produced to meet the new demands. Just as improved looms are rapidly supplanting outworn types — so is NON-FLUID OIL an improved lubricant that is' replacing common greases and fluid oils. TRADE MARK UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE Fluid oils are wasteful and inefficient. They leak out, drip, spatter and cause oil stains. Bearings require con- stant re-oiling to keep them from running dry — a loss of time as well as lubricant. Output of perfect goods from looms is cut down- because of damage from oil. Leading mills throughout the country have found it pos- sible to get away from these drawbacks by using NON- FLUID OIL. NON-FLUID OIL is highly adhesive and will never leak from bearings. With this product the customary inter- vals between oilings can be stretched from five to six times — less oil is used, less time spent in oiling, and OIL STAINS ON GOODS ARE ELIMINATED For all bearings of looms- use "A-No. 00000" grade; for all cams, "K-No. 00/Special.' Write for "Logical Loom Lubrication" and Free Samples. Sole Manufacturers NEW YORK AND NEW JERSEY LURRIGANT GO. 165 BROADWAY, NEW YORK NOTE: NON-FLUID OIL is not the name of a general class of lubricants, but of a specific product originated and produced by us exclusively. TEXACO LUBRICANTS In Textile Mills They are keeping down the friction load, saving wear and tear, and assisting in the economical production and transmission of power. We are proud of our showing in the textile mills because the many conditions encountered furnish such a telling example of the wide range of TEXACO LUBRICANTS. We are providing lubricants For Spindles, Preparation Machinery, Engines and Turbines Two of our specialties are RABTEX SPINDLE OIL, the most efficient bath spindle lubricant ever produced, and TEXACO CRATER COM- POUND, the great gear lubricant, which reduces wear on gears, clings to the metal, doesn't throw on to the goods. The Texaco Line for textile mills also includes Texaco Cylinder Oils, Texaco Turbine Oils, Texaco Machine Oils, Texaco Engine Oils, Texaco Softening Oils. We shall be pleased to answer any inquiries. There is a Texico Lubricant for Every Purpose THE TEXAS COMPANY Dept. X 17 Battery Place, N. Y. City Houston Chicago New York Offices in Principal Cities Steel Heddle Manufacturing Company 21st and Allegheny Ave. Philadelphia, Pa World's Largest Manufacturers of the FLAT STEEL HEDDLE, UNIVERSAL FRAME, used for all kinds of COTTON, WOOLEN, WORSTED and SILK GOODS METAL CUTTING A SPECIALTY Doup Heddles, Drop Wires and Heddles, with nickel finish, soldered Reeds and reed wire Ask for our Double Bar Frame for plain goods weaves. qizof COMPOUNDS HAVE PROVEN THEIR WORTH When you use SIZOL you will notice that it is clean under the loom. SIZOL prevents shedding and also makes the warps stronger and more pliable. SIZOL compounds set the standard for the UNITED STATES. MANUFACTURED BY The Seydel Mfg. Company Jersey City, N. J. S. C. THOMAS, GEORGE WITHERSPOON, Spartanburg, S.C. Mount Olive, N. C. Starch The efficiency of the loom depends upon the sizing of the warp. Starch is the most important ingredient of sizing, both for increased strength and increased weight. A careful selection of the special kind of starch best adapted for any desired result cannot be too strongly emphasized. NOTE THE FOLLOWING BRANDS: Eagle Finishing Famous N 400 Mill 500 Mill G. P. Warp Sizing Pioneer CORN PRODUCTS REFINING CO. New York Southern Office Greenville, S. C. Starch National Aniline and Chemical Company, Inc. Main Office 244 Madison Avenue, New York City Southern Office Commercial Bank Building, Charlotte, N. C. . Manufacturers of DIRECT COTTON COLORS SULPHUR COLORS BASIC COLORS PRIMULINE UNION COLORS WOOL COLORS KHAKI COLORS FOR GOVERNMENT TRADE, BOTH COTTON AND WOOL Also Manufacturers of TURKEY RED OIL NACCOPOL OIL SOLUBLE OILS TETRAPOL OIL SIZING COMPOUNDS, FINISHING PASTES, ETC. FOR DYEING AND FINISHING We sell all kinds of Chemicals for dye houses in cotton, woolen, paper mills, etc., including Aniline Oil, Bi- chromate of Soda, etc. GUM ARABIC Our Products Jacobs Patented Verybest Lug Straps Jacobs Patented Roller Cushion Lug Straps Jacobs Patented Canvas- back Lug Straps Jacobs Patented Pick Arms Jacobs "Special" Lug Straps Jacobs "Crescent" Lug Straps Jacobs "Star" Duck Lug Straps Jacobs "Star" Ticking Lug Straps Jacobs Jerker and Loop Straps Jacobs Combination of Straps (for silk looms) Jacobs Canvas Check Straps — plain or rein- forced. Jacobs Lug Strap Washers Jacobs 2 and 3 ply Leather Lug Straps Jacobs 3 and 4 ply form- ed and stitched Lug Straps Jacobs Canvas Hangups Jacobs Leather Hangups Jacobs Canvas Connections Jacobs Canvas Sweepstrap Heads Jacobs Leather Bunters (Cotton looms) Jacobs Canvas Bunters (Cotton looms) Jacobs Canvas Bumpers (Tire fabric looms) Jacobs Canvas Holdups Jacobs Canvas Loom Strap- ping Jacobs Leather Loom Strapping Jacobs Braided Harness Dobby Cords Jacobs Round Harness Straps Jacobs No. 44 and No. 46 XXCY Pickers (for duck looms) Jacobs No. 27 and No. 37 XXCY Pickers (for cot- ton looms) Jacobs B. S. D. (solid die) Pickers (for cot. looms) Jacobs Jersey Oak Pickers (for cotton looms) Jacobs Surpass WX Pick- ers (for cotton looms) Jacobs No. 44, No. 46. No. 48 y 2 Pickers (for duck looms) Jacobs Chrome and Oak Pickers (for cotton looms) Jacobs Canvas and Oak Pickers (for cotton looms) Jacobs Canvas Box Pickers (Carpet and duck looms) Jacobs Leather Loop Pick- ers (Draper looms) Jacobs Patented Bull Nose Pickers (Draper looms) Jacobs "Verybest" Loop Pickers (Tire fabric looms) Jacobs Leather Box Pick- ers (for silk looms) Jacobs "Diamond" Picker Loops Jacobs Picker Straps (6i/ 2 "x7/ 8 ") Jacobs Winding Leather, scarfed edge E. H. JACOBS MANUFACTURING COMPANY DANIELSON, CONN. BECAUSE FINELY WOVEN CLOTH AND BIG OUTPUT ARE ESSENTIAL, A LARGE NEW ENGLAND MILL USES THIS SHUTTLE IN HUN- DREDS OF THEIR C. & K. BOX BOOMS. IT HAS VITRIFIED ENAMEL EYE which allows tender places in yarn to weave into cloth instead of breaking and causing loss of production; and it has IMPROVED MARBLE SPINDLE which has no top springs or bottom catches or screws to break to damage warp and cause loss of production; and it is a shuttle made of DOGWOOD which does not splinter so readily as per- simmon, and lasts longer, is stronger, and withstands the gaff so well that looms produce more continuosuly; and it is a GUARANTEED SHUTTLE since made of wood, guaranteed to be free from knots and other inherent weaknesses, and tips are guaranteed not to loosen. SOME or ALL of the above features are the things insisted upon by skilful weavers who obtain high- est possible production. REQUEST US, without obligation to you, to examine your conditions and report to you in writing what can be accomplished for you by re-design of your shuttle. t* SHAMBOW SHUTTLE COMPANY WOONSOCKET R- '■ "An Ounce of Prevention Is Worth a Pound of Cure" M ANY OF THE BEST MAN I AGED MILLS HAVE ALL THEIR LOOMS EQUIPPED WITH OUR CAM DEVICE AND HUNDREDS OF THE MOST COM- PETENT MILL MEN RECOMMEND IT. IF YOUR LOOMS ARE NOT EQUIPPED, WHY NOT? LIBERAL DISCOUNTS IF THE MILL IS FULLY EQUIPPED. See Page 21 of This Book CLINTON CAM COMPANY CLINTON, S. C.