Class^ LBlSAi Book . .Kafc_. CopsyrightN COPYRrGHT DEPOSIT. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT WALTER J. KENYON State Normal School, San Francisco, Cal. NEW YORK THE BAKER & TAYLOR CO. 33-37 East Seventeenth Street, Union Square, North Copyright, 1899 and 1901, BY WALTER J. KENYON. RV OFl ECEIVEDl 901 [THE LIBRARY CON CRESS, Two Copies Received MAY. 2 1901 Copyright entry DLASSoVoOCc N* COPY 8. ROBERT DRUMMOM), PRINTER, NEW YORK. FOREWORD At the present time the United States leads the world in the excellence of its system of public education. Amoncr its prominent features is the training- in handwork, begun in the kindergarten and continued throughout the common-school years, whence it passes without break into the manual training high schools and special technical institutions. Of the several periods marking this manual training course the weakest is found in the primary school, dealing with pupils of from seven to eleven or twelve years of age. These children have outgrown the employment of the kindergarten and receiving class, but have yet to attain the growth qualify- ing them for the forms of handicraft common in the grammar grades. With a view to partially bridging this hiatus with the help of my many years of intimate acquaintance with children, I have devised these exercises. The writer is mindful of the later evidence of psychology. In the order of nervous and muscular development the large movements of trunk and limbs come under control before those more specialized o^ the digits and the eye. There is vi FOREWORD therefore some doubt to be expressed as to the age at which the child may profitably enter these employments which call for a somewhat definite manipulation of ruler, pencil, and scissors. I am quite content, however, to let the empirical psychology of each teacher decide this question in her own work. If the children of any certain grade exhibit at once a joy and an aptitude in the pursuance of these activities we have a modicum of evidence as to their usefulness. I should not hesitate to introduce the work to a second-year class, pro- vided its members had received the kindergarten training or its equivalent. On the other hand the exercises are not ill-adapted for pupils of upper grades, even the seventh and eighth, where of course a greater accuracy of performance is to be exacted. It is believed that many parents, realizing the value of constructive plays, will find the ensuing pages full of sugges- tion for rainy days in the nursery. It is indeed partly in response to appeals from outside the school circles that this little handbook is offered. W. J. K. San Francisco, April, 1901. CONTENTS TAGE Foreword v What the Title Covers 9 The Materials 12 The Tools 14 The Lessons 15 The Models 17 1. Bound Book No. 1 17 2. Tag 18 3. Thread-Winder No. 1 19 4. Seamless Tray 20 5. Circle-Maker 21 6. Thread-Winder No. 2 22 7. Thread-Winder No. 3 22 About Dictatio7is 24 8. Match-Strike 26 9. Corner Book-Mark 30 10. Oblong Pin-Tray 31 1 1 . Tripod Book-Mark 32 1 2. Label-Envelope 33 13. Stand Calendar 34 14. Portfolio No. 1 37 1 5. Scrolled Picture-Frame 39 16. Woven Tray , 43 17. Letter-Envelope 45 18. Square Tray, Bound 45 19. Round-Lipped Tray 48 20. Laced Tray 50 viii CONTENTS PAGE 2 1 . Tri-Tray 51 22. Button-Basket 53 23. Needie-Book 55 24. Scrolled Pin-Tray 58 25. Scrolled Match-Receiver 60 26. Bound Book No. 1 62 27. Button-Box, Ornate 64 28. Portrait-Calendar 66 Working Drawings , 69 29. Lip and Lace-Tray 71 30. Hexagonal Tray, Lipped 72, 31. Burnt-Match Receiver , 76 32. Tri-Cup, Mounted 78 33. Half Oblique Button-Box 79 34. Hexagonal Tray, Full Finish 81 35. Oblique Match-Stand 83 36. Cubical Box 85 37. Oblique Tray, Bound 87 t,S. Hexagonal Catch-all 89 39. Hair-Pin Stand 91 40. Bound Book No. 2... 91 41. Drop-Edged Catch-all 96 42. Sunflower Catch-all 98 43. Oblong Box and Lid 100 44. Octagonal Oblique Tray 103 45. Match-Pocket 106 46. Pencil-Vase.-. . 108 47. Pendant Match-Safe 1 1 1 48. Lotus Tray 114 49. Square Vase ... 117 50. Full-Bound Portfolio 121 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT WHAT THE TITLE COVERS LAST spring the writer stood before a big table full of odd little knick-knacks. They were all pretty in color and con- tour. They differed from the kindergarten devices in that they carried suggestions of durability and actual intrinsic value. The usual baby-ribbon and thin paper were displaced by mate- rials at once less frail and more aesthetic. The ensemble had a more businesslike appearance. There was more variety of material, too. A tough, beautiful cardboard, not hereto- fore seen in school handicraft, occupied a large place. Leath- erette was conspicuous, with now and then a glimpse of real leather. Here and there a morsel of wickerwork, such as a reed napkin-ring, showed itself. The question was asked, 14 What tools were used in making these things ? " and the an- swer was given, " Hardly any, save pencil, ruler, and shears." The writer pushed the discussion as to why primary teachers hadn't gotten hold of this line of work. A variety of reasons were uncovered. To begin with, the uninitiated pedagogue is easily scared by the term "manual training." It calls up harrowing 9 io FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT '* auditory images " of clanging hammers and rasping saws — things wholly impossible to the situation in hand. The first thing to be done, apparently, in shaping this work for print, was to cast about for some seductive caption which would win, at the very least, an unprejudiced reading from our clientele. We have said "Handicraft," because we do not mean either " sloyd " or "manual training," as they are commonly con- ceived, but something nearer the primary teacher's aspirations, nearer the children's ability, and nearer the possibilities of the primary schoolroom as it exists. The second pitfall to be avoided was that excess of system which, pervading the later educational movements, has filled the green earth with rampant bugaboos for the already hard- pressed grade teacher. The course here presented, while observing a general progression ' ' from the easy to the more difficult, ' ' avoids that rigid and finical insistence upon detail which has heretofore overawed the novice. For example, while it is as well to utilize the exercises about in the order given, the starry heavens will still remain unshattered if the teacher finds it convenient to induct Model 4 before Model 3. A number of teachers have, now and again, made little explorations into this field of primary handicraft. Of these ventures little has come to light. The fault has lain, not so much in a dearth of inventive genius, as in a lack of persist- ence in seeking the raw material. For example, most experi- ments have struck aground on "tag-stock." Every one knows that tag-stock offers no inducements as to color, and FIRST YEARS' IN HANDICRAFT u worse, is miserably brittle. No one seems to have found out, however, that there are to be had many varieties of papers and boards as tough as leather, as beautiful in color and tex- ture as an artist could dream them, and altogether satisfactory for our purpose. Price is another question that has not been properly opened up. I find my fellow experimenters paying ten cents a sheet for cardboard when by a little rummaging in the wholesale districts they can have a wholly satisfactory board at from a cent and a half to two cents and a half a sheet (22 X 28). Now dividing the cost of things by four is worth while; and it can be done, approximately, in most of the items, if you can evade your " Public Service Bureau " (!) and look these matters up for yourself. One point remains — the nature of the models. Most of the "elementary" things published, whether on differential calculus or roller skating, are not elementary at all. They embody every twist the author knows in his subject. For example, see the Leipzig work in cardboard. It is far more difficult than a course in cabinet joinery. But the models hereafter described are really elementary. They are things little folks can make — if the little folks begin at the beginning. Finally, they are real, intrinsic tilings, every one, to take home and use, or to use in school. THE MATERIALS Thirty children can each make the fifty models (30 X 50 = 1500 models) with the material here named. The first thirty models average about one-fourth of a cent apiece in cost. The remaining twenty use more material, including leatherette, and bring the cost up to about a cent apiece throughout the series. "Cover-papers" are exceedingly tough and beautifully colored, surpassing in both respects the various Manillas, bristols, etc., heretofore used in primary manual training. Cover-paper in the 120-lb. weight is heavy enough for the work in hand ; and the 50-lb. weight is just right for facing and edging. Thus exquisite color harmonies may be secured by selecting adjacent color tones for edging and surfaces. Ask your dealer for one of those beautifully gotten-up sample-books of cover-paper, either the "Herculean," or the "Princess," or the "Royal Melton." There are others. You can then select colors at your leisure. The crude, garish tints of the ordinary "tough check," etc., will here be found agreeably missing ; and in their stead ' ' Cadet blue, " " Havana brown," "Lincoln green," and many others as pleasing as their names. A two-piece model made up of Lincoln and Shamrock greens, or Cadet and Columbia blues is a combina- tion not to be despised by the most exacting colorist. 12 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 13 1 Quire of 30-lb. Manilla, 30 X 40 (or its equivalent, cut up), say. . m $ . 30 1 Quire of 60-lb. ditto 40 100 Sheets (22 X 28) 120-lb. cover 2.40 25 " " " 50-lb. " .... 35 5 " " lt gray " Velour " cover " ;: " 10 15 " binders' board, 70-lb. or lighter 25 2 Quires " heavy wrapping, " 30 X 40. 70 30 Sheets 22 X 28 lithographed book-paper 60 1 Sq. yd. book-cloth 25 1 Sheet thin bristol-board, 14 X 22 . .05 30 Calendar pads, I }4 X 2 % 30 30 " " 2 X 2> J A s 40 24 Sq. yds. leatherette 6.00 3 ' 4 " light muslin or cambric 21 90 Yds. baby-ribbon 1.35 50 " gray tape, half-inch 50 40 " black " " 4< 40 1 Ball druggists' cotton twine 05 2 Hanks Barbour's gloss thread 05 1 Spool heavy white or gray thread 10 3 Doz. Perry pictures 36 6 Sheets No. 1 sandpaper 10 1 Pt. Le Page's glue 45 2 Lbs. flour, for paste 10 * For Model 15. THE TOOLS i Doz. scissors (Heinisch 6%-mch straight trimmers, half nickeled) $4-00 6 Knitting-needles * 3° 1 Paper of darning-needles e . -05 2 Ticket-punches 5° 1 Doz. White's drawing-compasses 1.20 Ruler, each child bring his own. Pencil, " *The knitting-needles are for "scoring." They should be broken in two and the broken ends thrust into roughly whittled wooden handles, making twelve scoring-points. 14 THE LESSONS It is thought best not to take space here with formal direc- tions as to the management of the lesson. Each teacher will control details after her own habit. Of course the teacher will make each model herself before trying it with the children. Better try a small group at first, giving individual attention. After making three or four models the children will have become self-reliant, when they may be worked in larger numbers and with less supervision. It is a good plan to draw the model — the working draw- ing — on the blackboard, before the lesson. Teach the children to refer to these drawings. They very soon learn to do so, thus mastering a valuable knowledge and immensely lessening the teacher's further labors. One correspondent writes me that she has drawn the diagrams much enlarged, on sheets of stout Manilla paper. She finds that this permanent form pays well for the trouble of making. Of course the teacher will attend to vocabulary. When the class must learn to draw lines at right angles, give the i5 16 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT term riglit angle. Teach them to draw it (approximately) around the end of the ruler. In using the awl for scor- ing, teach class to dent the paper — not "cut it part way through. " In referring to measurements the mark " are used to indicate inches. THE MODELS Model 1 BOUND BOOK NO. 1 Take four sheets of any writing-paper, about j" square. Cut a square of 70-lb. cover-paper, Y\" larger, each way, than the other sheets. Fold each of these sheets along one 01 ics diameters. Place these folded sheets one within the next, 17 18 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT forming a book of eight leaves and cover. Sew, as shown in Fig. I, with strong thread. This book may be used by the pupil, in connection with his language and number, or he may take it home. Its appearance is improved by smoothing with a hot iron, or pressing under a geography. Model 2 TAG On bristol-board or heavy Manilla, draw a rectangle 3" X 13/ Cut this into three parts, each, \" X These will make three tags as shown in Fig. 2. Clip two corners free <— r — ^ hand, as shown. Punch the hole with ticket-punch. Take 12" of string— pretty pink string such as the druggist uses. Double it. Push the loop through the hole. Pass the ends through the loop and pull taut. Knot the loose ends. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT , 9 These labels are useful in marking various bits of school material. Model 3 THREAD-WINDER NO. 1 Material: 120-lb. cover-paper. Draw the rectangle shown in Fig. 3. Place the points indicated, respectively y A " and j£" from corners. F/g. 3. Connect these by the slant lines. Cut out on the heavy lines shown. This thread-winder is useful for the busy-work worsteds, etc. 20 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT Model 4 SEAMLESS TRAY Material: 120-lb. cover-paper. Draw the rectangle, Fig. 4. On each line place dots y 2 " from each end. With these dots as guides, draw the inner rectangle. Connect the rectangles at their corners. With a dull knitting-needle, or awl, score all the light lines. In scoring a line bruise the paper without cutting it. Use the ruler to guide the awl. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 21 Cut out the drawing on heavy lines. Fold on the scored lines, first at the corners, then at the base-lines ; then at the corners again, until the card assumes a tray shape as in Fig- 5- %. s. Model 5 CIRCLE-MAKER Material: 70-lb. binders' board. Draw the rectangle shown in Fig. 6. Draw its midline, — i" Fig *• On this midline mark oft' inches and half-inches. At the first half-inch mark bore a hole with a small brad-awl. This model is useful in drawing circles, when no com- passes can be afforded. The little hole bored is to receive the pencil point. At any of the other marks, a pin is to be thrust through the card, impaling it. Thus the pin will act as a pivot, at the centre of the circle to be drawn. 22 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT Model 6 THREAD-WINDER NO. 2 Material : i 20-lb. cover-paper. With the circle-maker (Model 5) draw a 3" circle. Draw- its diameter. Using the respective ends of this diameter as r;g.7. centres, draw the arcs shown in Fig. 7. Cut out on heavy lines. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 23 Model 7 THREAD-WINDER NO. 3 Material : 1 20-lb. cover-paper. Draw two equilateral triangles on the same base. Sides 2" '. This gives the rhombus shown in Fig. 8. On each edge of this rhombus, set off a point y x " from the acute vertex; another %" from the obtuse vertex. For convenience call these respectively Y x " points and ]A" points. Connect each pair of #" points with the opposite vertex. Connect each pair of %" points with the opposite vertex. Darken the lines as shown. Cut out on dark lines. ABOUT DICTATIONS No two teachers ever present the same material in the same way. Under favorable class-room conditions as to number of pupils, grouping, etc., it is profitable to teach this cardboard work by dictation. To be sure, dictation means class, not individual teaching; but it has certain indisputable values. Suppose the teacher says, in beginning the drawing, " Find the upper left-hand corner." What have we ? First, a language lesson; a mental act, on the pupil's part, in associating the terms upper, left, with the corresponding ideas. Next a motor activity, expressing that association and completing the psychic movement. Incidentally, an act of intense attention (to the teacher's words), having the value of a physical-culture command, or of military practice. This latter, provided the child be required to hear the direction first time. It is well to note here the especial value of dictations for eye-minded children — those who habitually receive their im- pressions by the eye, the ear -being less than normally recep- tive although not in any degree deaf. Auditory exercises, 24 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 25 requiring- responsive activity, are the remedy; and dictations of manual training are of this sort. Conversely, those children whom you discover to be ear-minded require less auditory and more visual training. For such, the dictation may be written; and by continual reference to blackboard drawings, a reading knowledge of working drawing may soon be given, after which the ear-minded pupil may look almost wholly to the black- board for his direction. Facility will probably lead the teacher to adopt this as her prevailing plan. That is, to use dictations and blackboard drawings together, referring the class more and more to the blackboard drawings until the cardboard construction assumes, in the main, the character of busy- work. A dictation is given for Model 8 which is intended as a suggestive example for other models. To economize space in these pages the dictations will ordinarily be omitted. 26 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT Model 8 MATCH-STRIKE Material: For beginners, a heavy cover-paper is best. It should be brown, buff, or gray-green— darker than sandpaper and harmonizing with it. Pupils of more ability may cover heavy wrapping with leatherette, in pieces large enough to receive the working drawing (Fig. 9). Z'/z" •> -A5- \ / L_ Sandpaper, : I'M'/z. \ .../ \ F* 9. Also sandpaper, either No. o or No. 1. One sheet of sandpaper, closely cut, is enough for twenty-four pupils. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 27 Dictation Place your paper with the short edges extending right and left. Find the upper left corner. Place a dot a fourth inch below it. A fourth inch to the right of this dot place another. Beginning with this second dot, draw a line 2}^" long, extending toward the right. From the left end of this line drop a perpendicular* 4" long, extending toward the lower edge of the paper. From the right end drop a similar ■* line. How far apart should they be at their lower ends ? Test them and correct if neces- sary. Draw a line connecting the lower ends of the two just drawn. (Teach terms right angle and rectangle.) How wide is your rectangle ? How long ? Find the upper left corner. Half an inch to the right place a dot. On which line ? Find the other end of this line. Place a dot half an inch to the left. On the lower line place two dots similarly. Find the upper left corner again. Three-fourths of an inch below place a dot. On which line ? Find the lower end. Three-fourths of an inch above place a dot. * Teach new words as a necessity for their use is encountered, without regard to age or grade of the pupil, or length of the word. Select common terms if they are correct. The side and end of a ruler are at right angles. Hence if the end of the ruler is laid to coincide with the first line drawn, a second, drawn along the ruler's edge, will be at right angles or perpendicular. 28 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT On the right line place two dots similarly. Find the upper dot on the left line. Find the lower dot on the right line. Draw a line connecting them. Find the remaining two dots on these side-lines. Connect them. Find the left dot on the upper line. Find the right dot on the lower line. Connect. Connect the two dots remaining. Find the upper left corner again. Place a dot a fourth inch to the right. On which line ? Another a fourth inch below the same corner. On which line ? Similarly, place pairs of dots a fourth inch from each of the other corners. Find upper left corner. Find dot a fourth inch below. Find upper right corner. Find dot a fourth inch below. Connect these dots. This line is parallel* with the upper edge of your rect- angle. Similarly draw a parallel a fourth inch within the lower edge. Similarly, a parallel a fourth inch within the left edge. Another within the right edge. Once more, find upper left corner. Darken the first half * Teach new words as a necessity for their use is encountered, without regard to age or grade of the pupil, or length of the word. Select common terms if they are correct. The side and end of a ruler are at right angles. Hence if the end of the ruler is laid to coincide with the first line drawn, a second, drawn along the ruler's edge, will be at right angles or perpendicular. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 29 inch of upper edge. The first three-fourths inch of the left edge. Darken similar spaces at the other corners. How large is the first rectangle you drew ? Find the next in size. Call it the inner rectangle. Trace around the inner rectangle with your finger. Find the left edge of this inner rectangle. Find two points where slant lines cross it. Place a dot at each of these points. Darken the line between these two dots. Darken the similar parts in the other three sides of inner rectangle. Notice how the inner and outer rectangles are connected by slant lines. Darken all the slant lines between the rect- angles. Cut the figure out on heavy lines. Now take your sandpaper. Lay it sand-side down. Draw upon the smooth side a rectangle \%" X 2]/?" . Cut this out.* Lay the sandpaper on the centre of the back piece so that opposite margins will be equal. Judge, this time, instead of measuring. Trace a faint pencil mark around the sandpaper, on the back piece. Now spread the glue, very thinly, on back of sandpaper. Press the sandpaper in position. Press the work in a book. * It is a good plan to set aside an old pair of shears for sandpaper cutting. This saves the better ones. 30 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT When it is dry we will punch two holes with the ticket-punch, similar to those in the match-strike. Model 9 CORNER BOOK-MARK Material: 70-lb. cover-paper. Draw the left half of Fig. 10; that is, the half composed ■9 : r/g. 10. of solid lines. Gne of these lines is a 4" perpendicular, is it not ? Fold paper on this line and cut the pattern out. Observe that two thicknesses of paper will be cut at once. Unfold the paper and you have the entire pattern shown in Fig. 10, plus a lap at the top of right half. Cut this lap off; FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 3i then only the left half will have a lap. Score the light line with dull awl. Fold the lap down, and fold the halves together, with pencil marks inside. Glue the lap over the edge of other half. The book-mark is improved by pressing. This book-mark may be appropriately decorated in water- colors if desired. Model 10 OBLONG PIN-TRAY Material : 1 20-lb. cover-paper. Draw Fig. 11. Cut out on heavy lines. Score the light * - 5 > \ / •A« / \ lines with the awl. Fold the box, including laps, into shape. Glue the laps inside the adjacent sides. Glue one at a time 32 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT and hold until secure. Use glue very sparingly— a mere garnish, applied with a tooth-pick. Most of the mussy work done by pupils will be avoided if they are taught to use less glue. Model 11 TRIPOD BOOK-MARK Material: 120-lb. cover-paper. Draw Fig. 12. The two little circles need not be drawn. They are to be punched out with the ticket-punch. Punch the holes; then cut out figure, on heavy lines. This finishes the tripod book-mark. In use, the three legs bestride a few pages of the book, the centre leg on one side, the long legs on the other. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 33 Model 12 LABEL-ENVELOPE Material: Light Manilla, 40-, 50-, or 60-lb. Draw Fig. 13. If the children are not able to work in {*->* /&". — i I Fi& A3. 34 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT quarter and eighth inches, the little triangular cuttings may be made freehand, after the teacher's inspection. The curved flap may be drawn with the circle-maker (Model 5), or with compasses mentioned in tool-list. Score the light lines and fold up. Use either paste or glue. The \" flap goes over the i%" flap, bringing the joint line down the centre. The bottom flap is pasted down next. The curved flap is not pasted. The label-envelope is used in many ways about the school and with variations may be profitably made in any grade. Model 13 STAND CALENDAR Material: (1) Heavy wrapping, or any cardboard not too stiff to be easily cut. (2) Leatherette. (3) A scrap of thin Manilla, such as used in Model 12. (4) For the leg, a bit of 70-lb. binders' board, or other heavy board. (5) A small calendar pad about rj£" X 2^". Draw and cut a rectangle of heavy wrapping 3" X A%" - Cut the leatherette a half inch larger on every side. Lay the leatherette face down. Lay the other sheet .upon it, equally distant from the edges. Crease up the projecting flaps of leatherette and glue them over on the paper, previously cutting the superfluous leatherette out of the corners. From the Manilla, cut a rectangle 2^/i" X 4 "• Paste* this on the back of the w T ork in hand, equally distant from edges. * Notice that thin papers are best fasted and heavy ones g hied. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 35 On the binders' board draw Fig. 15. Cut out on heavy lines. Score the light line occurring %' f from the wide end of the figure. Bend the piece slightly on this scored line. Fig. I¥. larger one on the other. Spread glue thinly on the small area Fi S . IS. and press the leg in position on the back of work. Take sug- gestion from Fig. 14. The calendar pad is glued in the location seen in Fig. 14. 36 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT It is necessary to apply the glue to only a small strip of the back — say the top quarter inch. The reader having followed this work from the beginning is now tolerably well assured that the exercises are really and truly elementary in their scope, and fit for little children. It is assumed that the teacher has by this time some facility in reading the simple working drawings here given, and under- stands the various references to material, all of which have been already explained. It is strongly recommended that, whatever the age of the pupil, he be not permitted to take this work up at the middle or end. In progressing step by step from the beginning the whole work is readily performed and nothing is obscure nor difficult, for either teacher or child. There will arise the question: "My class is not in frac- tions. How shall I handle parts of an inch ? " I taught these things first in a school where the children knew eighths as soon as they knew eight. I don't see how it can be otherwise. I don't see how a child can readily know eight without knowing the parts of eight. Hence the absurdity of setting apart any certain grade for the teaching of fractions. If, however, it is in any case impracticable to deal with fourth and eighth inches as fractions, teach the child temporarily to recognize, on his ruler, the desired space, as an arbitrary measure, for the present emergency. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 37 Model 1-t PORTFOLIO, NO. 1 Material: (i) Heavy wrapping. (2) Four feet of tape. If possible have tape harmonize in color with paper. Fig. 16 shows this model completed. F& /L Draw Fig. 1 Cut all heavy lines. The short heavy dashes are cut through with a knife-point to receive tapes. Fold on the centre line, but not sharply. Better, in fact, not fold at all, but bend around a pencil. Draw Fig. 17. The slanting ends may be ruled without measuring. Cut on heavy lines, along the center line. Bend around a pencil, 38 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT Draw another Fig. 17, and repeat. You need two pieces alike. Of course an experienced worker will draw both pieces F/cf. J7. F/jg. 18. in one rectangle and then cut them apart. Cut the tape into 8" strips. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 39 Insert a tape-end through a slit from the outside of port- folio. Let it lie for half an inch on the inside away from the edge, or toward the centre, and glue that half inch down. Adjust the other five tapes likewise, in the other five slits. You have two pieces like Fig. 17. . Call them guards. Glue the guards in the position seen in Fig. 16. This portfolio is for the pupil's own use, he henceforth keeping his pencil, ruler, and other material in it. Model 15 SCROLLED PICTURE-FRAME This model has three pieces. The drawings are very simple if made one by one. Each pupil should bring a cabinet photograph, to be framed. Fig. 19 is the front piece. It is to be drawn on cover- paper of a pleasing color. Draw the rectangle, then its diagonals. On each diagonal place two dots which shall be 2" from the end, in each case. The length of diagonal between dots is darkened. Cut out rectangle. Punch the four holes with ticket- punch. Cut the heavy part of diagonals with shears, using one of the punched holes as a beginning. Fig. 20 is the back piece. Make it of heavy wrapping. Draw the outer rectangle. Set off the 1 " margins on three sides. Draw the slant lines. Cut out on heavy lines. 4 o FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT Fold the three flaps in so that they occupy the places shown by the dotted lines. Now see if the photograph slips easily in and out of this back piece. Glue the back piece on the back of the front piece (Fig. 19), so adjusting them that their lower edges coincide. Slip the photograph in its place (being careful not to glue it fast) and place the whole under a book, to be pressed till dry. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 41 Pi& 20. FiS- Zl. 4 2 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT Meantime draw Fig. 21 on binders' board, as heavy as the children can cut. Cut on heavy lines. This is the leg. Apply glue to about 1" of the large end. Adjust to the back of the frame, and press till dry. The front of the frame is now to be " scrolled." Remove the photograph. Moisten the four triangular flaps with a damp sponge. They may now be curled on a lead-pencil without cracking. Curl them tight and they will stay when dry. The picture-frame is now complete and may be set up as in Fig. 2: FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 43 Model 16 WOVEN TRAY Material: 120-lb. cover-paper, of two harmonizing colors. Draw Fig. 24. Cut out on heavy lines. In cutting the ribs apart remove a narrow strip, as shown at a, a, a. Cut a similar little gap between each two ribs, all the way round. F/g. 23. Bend the ribs up to a perpendicular position, on the lines of the central square. Cut, from cover-paper of the other color, three strips y^" wide and \j" long. Weave these bands in and out, as seen in Fig. 23. Weave the lowest first. Arrange the ends of the strip to overlap each other inside the basket. Glue them there, one over the other. Be careful to make corners tight. Clip the projecting ribs to a pointed shape. Fold them down over top band. This method of cardboard weaving has been used in a 44 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT variety of forms. Baskets, triangular, hexagonal, etc., can be made in the same fashion. va» 67% c 2 'A " *- /" _ ^/"-^ ^-/" -^ /" - ? j^ " a a a 00 r/^. 2*. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 45 Model 17 LETTER ENVELOPE Material: 70-lb. Manilla. Draw Fig. 25. Note that the right and left flaps are nowhere alike in dimensions. This will explain itself when the model is folded together. Cut out on heavy lines. Fold on sides of central rectangle. Glue the 3" flap over the y/ 2 " flap. This brings the visible edge in the middle. Glue the lower flap over the side flaps. It improves this model to press it. Model 18 SQUARE TRAY, BOUND Material: For box, 120-lb. cover-paper. For binding, strips of leatherette* or any colored facing paper. The finished model is shown in Fig. 26. The side is broken away to show the manner of adjusting the binding. The box-plan is given in Fig. 27. Cut out on heavy lines. Score light ones and fold together. The laps are to be glued to the inside of box. Hold each joint a few moments until dry, before going to the next. Use the glue sparingly. Fetch each joint up close at the corner. * If leatherette is used for binding, it should be split by starting it at the edge and then stripping the back off. Otherwise it is too thick for this purpose. 4 6 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT «^ ■"/>/ 1 .% \ ^N^ x v, ,M\ Mt 1 * %' %S Mt FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT M Cut all the binding V% of an inch wide. Bind the corners first, as follows: Fold a binding strip down the middle (see Fig. J\d). Open again and cover inner surface with paste for about the P/^2L first inch in length. Press this length in place on one corner of the box. Cut off the remainder and proceed with the other corners. \ / */"-) ' *•* :-/** / \ For the top, cut a binder long enough to go all around with a trifle to spare — or about 17", all told. Fold this binder double, open it, and spread inner surface with paste for the first 3" or 4". 4 8 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT Press this pasted portion into place along one edge of the box, commencing, not at a corner, but anywhere between corners. Press the binding down at the top so that the fit is close. At the box-corner, clip the binder almost through with the point of the scissors. Leave just a "backbone " at the fold. Adjust the cut part nicely at the corner and proceed along the next edge, pasting as you go, a few inches at a time, and so all around the top. Prepare a similar strip and paste along the bottom edges, as seen in Fig. 26. If a proper color selection is made in binding and cover-paper, the effect is very pretty. Model 19 ROUND-LIPPED TRAY Material: 120-lb. cover-paper. The finished model is seen in Fig. 28. The construction drawing in Fig. 29. F/ir.28. To draw the curved lips, bisect the sides of the inner square. Spread compasses from one point of bisection to the FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 49 point from whence the arc starts. Draw the arc and the others similarly. If no compasses are to be had, use tri- angular instead of curved lips. r& z9. Cut out on heavy lines, score, fold, and glue. Glue the laps this time on the outside of box. The rule is to always glue the laps where they will show least. Finally, bend the curved flaps back. 50 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT Model 20 LACED TRAY Material: 120-lb. cover-paper and a flush yard of baby- ribbon. Model shown in Fig. 30. Drawing in Fig. 31. Choose n&- 30. FJ£.3I. your own dimensions. The fancy edge (or any substitute) may be cut on a waste piece and this used as a pattern around which to trace. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 51 The holes are cut with the ticket-punch. Be careful to punch them a uniform distance apart. The need of this will appear in the lacing. For lacing, cut the ribbon into lengths of 12^" or 13". Lace as seen in Fig. 30, overlapping ends of ribbon inside and joining, with a spot of glue, to each other and to the paper. Lace the top ribbon first and be sure to pull the corners up close. Hold the fastening a few moments until dry. Model 21 TRI-TRAY Material: 120-lb. cover-paper. (It is presumed, all this time, that you have a pleasing variety of colors.) The model is seen in Fig. 32. The construction in Fig. 33- If compasses are to be had, secure the triangle by the usual method, as seen in Fig. 33^. Add the 1" rectangles, 52 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT then the curves, then the triangular laps, the latter made by projecting the sides of the triangle each time to the right. Cut, fold, and glue in the usual manner. F,£.3$ To work without compasses, secure the triangle after the method seen in Fig. 33^. A perpendicular is erected at the F/£33A F/$.333. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 53 centre of the base, by laying the end of the ruler along the latter line in such a way that the ruler-edge shall lie along the line to be drawn. If the ruler has a perfectly square end (which should be attended to in the buying) the line drawn must needs be perpendicular. The sides may now be measured off, of the same length as the base. For the curved flaps of Fig. 33, substitute low tri- angles. Model 22 BUTTON-BASKET Material: 120-lb. cover-paper. Model is seen in Fig. 34. Construction in Fig. 35. n% 3* Draw the outer rectangle first, then the inner, which is \%" within the other. Divide all sides of the inner rectangle according to the divisions shown at the left edge. That is, the end divisions are each V% and the others % of an inch. 54 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT Divide all sides of the outer rectangle according to the divisions given for the left end. 3 A. " sfr Cut out on heavy lines. Score light lines and fold ribs upward. Now cut a quarter inch strip of the same material, 12^" long. It is easiest to crease it at the. proper points before gluing it on, as shown in Fig. 36. - With a toothpick touch glue to the tops of a whole row of ribs, on the outside. Press the proper length of rim in place FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 5s and hold until dry. Finish the other three sides likewise. Note that at each corner two ribs should be in contact, all the way up. Make the handle %" wide and 6" long. Glue it on the inside of middle ribs, from the bottom up. Model 23 NEEDLE-BOOK Material: (1) Two pieces of "heavy wrapping," each 2}i" X 3^" (2) A piece of leatherette 4" X 6#". (3) A scrap of muslin (or other fabric) an inch wide and 3;^" long. (4) A piece of facing-paper (or else Manilla) 3^" X $%"- (5) Two pieces of chamois (or else flannel) each 3" X 5". (6) Two pieces of baby-ribbon, each 4" long. Place the heavy wrapping pieces with long edges about }i of an inch apart and glue down upon them the muslin strip, as seen in Fig. 37. Lay the work thus prepared upon the leatherette so that the latter shows an equal margin on all four edges. In this position the leatherette is to be wrong side up 56 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT and the other is to be muslin-side down (or toward the leatherette). Cut a slit in the leatherette for the baby-ribbon, just at the edge of the heavy wrapping (Fig. 37 A). Pass 1" of the baby ribbon through this slit from the finished side of the leatherette. W Ti$. V /v\ \ n& 37 a The ribbon passed through the slit n6w lies between the leatherette and the heavy wrapping, and in this position is to be glued to the former. The work, so placed, is now to be glued to the leatherette. Spread the glue over the whole face of the work that lies toward the leatherette — save the middle half inch of the muslin, running full length of the open space, and including it. That is, the eighth inch of muslin free of the wrapping is to remain free of glue, together with a little margin each side of it. Having done this gluing, press the work, preferably under a warm iron. Otherwise under any weight. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 5; Now fold the leatherette margins over on the wrapping and glue them down (Fig. 37B), first cutting away the super- fluous corner folds. Fig- 37 JB. Fig. 37 "<*■ The facing-paper is now to be pasted over the inside of the work, leaving the leatherette exposed y%" at every edge (Fig- 370- This finishes the covers. Press till dry and then fold them together and work back and forth until the hinge is quite limp. Fold the pieces of chamois together, making four leaves. Sew these leaves to the hinge, stitching through the muslin, but not the leatherette. Before putting the leaves in they may be pinked with a pinking-iron or scissors. It improves the needle-book to iron it with a moderately warm iron. A hot iron ruins the leatherette. 58 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT Model 24 SCROLLED PIN-TRAY Material: 120-lb. cover-paper. The finished model is shown in Fig. 38, the construction F/$. 38. in Fig. 39. In drawing the latter, secure the equilateral tri- angle by either method used in Model 21. Adjacent each side of the triangle construct a \" rectangle, and adjacent this, a lyo" rectangle, as shown. Produce^ the sides of the triangle indefinitely in each direction. Find the lines separating the \" rectangles from the \y 2 " rectangles. Produce these each way until they meet the extended lines of the triangle. Connect these junction points with the respective outer corners of the i}?" rectangles. * Produce — in geometry, a term meaning to extend a line an additional distance. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 59 Because of these slant lines, we must now say quadri- lateral instead of rectangle. At the right end of each i' quadrilateral construct a y%" lap, as shown. Fig. 39 Cut out on heavy lines. Score and fold only on the lines of the triangle, including the extensions. Glue together, as usual. Hold each corner until quite firm before going on with the next. The \]A" projections are now to be rolled upon a lead- pencil. They must first be dampened to insure smooth 60 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT rolling. After rolling, allow the dampened paper to dry, after which the rolls should be tightened and glued fast underneath. Model 25 SCROLLED MATCH-RECEIVER Material: 120-lb. cover-paper. See Fig. 40 for the finished model. n&.+o. Draw Fig. 41. Cut out on heavy lines. Score and fold on the lines of the central square, and on the slant lines found in two of the adjacent figures. Glue as usual, with the laps on the outside. Roll the projecting flaps according to directions given in Model 24. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 61 62 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT Model 20 BOUND BOOK NO. 1 Figs. 42 and 43. Material: (1) Binders' board No. 70, covered outside with Wa (2) leatherette and inside with (3) facing-paper; (4) muslin for hinges; (5) two feet of pretty string or strong thread, for bind- ing; (6) blank paper of any sort for leaves. Draw a rectangle 6" X 9" on the binders' board. Divide it into rectangles 414 " X 6" and cut them out. Prepare one of these rectangles as follows: Parallel with a FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 63 A X A" edge draw a line half an inch from it. Cut on this line thus severing a half-inch strip 4^'' long. Lay this strip back in its place (as it was before being cut off). Glue over the cut a strip of muslin an inch wide and 4" long. The two pieces of board are now joined, the muslin acting as a hinge. Cut a piece of leatherette a half inch larger on every side than the binders' board. Glue the binders' board to this leatherette so that the muslin shall lie between the two. Turn the projecting leatherette over the edge and glue down. See Fig. 43- Cut a piece of facing-paper 4J4" x SU '■ Paste this on the inside of the work in hand. When this is dry, run a pencil-point along the facing-paper over the line of the hinge, severing the paper. The effect will be seen in Fig. 43. With the ticket-punch cut three holes through the half-inch piece. 6 4 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT This finishes one cover. Construct the other in a similar way. Be careful to have the respective punched holes oppo- site each other in the two covers. Punch the leaves now, in the proper place, and lace the whole together as seen in Figs. 42 and 42a. Model 27 BUTTON-BOX, ORNATE See Fig. 44. r/ff. **■. Material: (1) Heavy wrapping ; (2) dark facing-paper, for edging; (3) light paper, for facing; (4) leatherette, for lining; (5) a scrap of light Manilla, for bottom facing. Draw Fig. 45 on heavy wrapping. Cut out and glue up as usual. Edge top, bottom, and corners with dark facing-paper, as in Model 18; cut the panels out of light facing and paste in the position shown in Fig. 44. Out of leatherette cut four pieces like Fig. 46. Glue them FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 65 lightly in place inside the box. The little margins are added to secure covering at the joints. \ > 7 ^^™— ^ 7 \ F'JS- IS. ?'S ^ Cut a square of leatherette 3^" on a side, or just large enough to fit nicely on the bottom, inside. Glue it in place. 66 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT Cut a piece of thin Manilla (or any other plain paper) 3^" square. Paste it on the bottom, outside. Model 28 PORTRAIT-CALENDAR Figs. 47, 48, and 49. Material: (1) Heavy wrapping; (2) leatherette; (3) a Perry picture (of some great author or patriot) ; (4) a calendar pad, about 2" X V/2" \ (5) a strip of binders' board, for the leg. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 67 Cut a rectangle of heavy wrapping 4^" x 7". In the upper part cut an oval or round opening of suitable size and shape to properly disclose the picture. Cover now with the leatherette. After the latter is glued on, cut the corresponding opening in the leatherette, but a half inch smaller all around. The half-inch margin is then to *./!"- he <^ / *-* ^'S- *S- F'jfW. be cut into "teeth " and these are to be folded over on the inside of wrapping and glued there, as in Fig. 48. Fasten the picture in place with a spot or two of glue very, very little. Cut a piece of heavy wrapping %" smaller in each dimension than the work in hand. Glue it onto the back of the latter. The work should now be pressed while drying.. 63 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT Meanwhile cut Fig. 49 out of binders' board. Glue it in place by the upper end and bend it out as seen in Fig. 47. Affix the calendar pad with a touch of glue applied along the upper edge of the back. Punch a hole above the picture opening, that the calendar may either hang or stand. WORKING DRAWINGS A working drawing always looks more complicated than it proves to be. Those here given will offer no difficulty to children who have made the foregoing models. Lest some of the points previously mentioned may have become obsolete, let us recall them. In all of the working drawings given, heavy lines are lines to be cut. Light lines, generally, but not always, are to be creased. This creasing is to be done without any weakening of the paper. Hence the line, in scoring, is not to be "cut part way through," as is sometimes done. Instead, a dull point, of any sort, is used, that indents without cutting. A dulled brad-awl, smooth on the point, answers well. In gluing, the danger is always of using too much glue. A toothpick is therefore better than even the smallest brush. As the drawings are coming now to require some degree of accuracy, the matter of pencil-sharpening is of moment. Instead of the ordinary conical point used in writing, the graphite may be cut to a wedge point. This wedge, by reason of wearing much longer, is more useful in accurate drawing. It is seen in Fig. 64. Of course this item is a luxury only to 69 70 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT be enjoyed where a set of pencils may be put apart for use in this work. Finally, it has been agreed all along that new words are to be properly developed on their introduction ; and that the proper word shall always be used, to the exclusion of " baby- talk." Model 29 LIP AND LACE TRAY Material: 120-lb. cover-paper; 45 inches of baby-ribbon, harmonizing in color with the paper. Draw Fig. 51. The arrow shows radius for arcs. The small holes need not be drawn, but their centres should be marked. Score the lines of the square. Also the chord of each arc. Cut the figure out. Cut the ribbon -holes with the ticket-punch. To locate the hole accurately look down the barrel of the punch for the dot 71 72 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT previously marked in the drawing. The middle hole and that in the flap are cut at once, by folding the flap over. Cut the baby-ribbon into 15" lengths. Lace the top row first. Pass one end of the ribbon just inside the upper right hole. Glue this intruded end fast to the inside of the box, to the left of the hole. A quarter inch of ribbon is plenty for this fastening. Pass the other end of the ribbon through the upper left hole of the adjacent wall of the box, from the outside. Bring it FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 73 out through the next upper hole to the right. Draw the lacing taut. Where the ribbon twists, adjust it with a toothpick. Now stretch the ribbon over the middle hole. Press it through, by means of the toothpick, thus producing a little loop of ribbon inside. Stretch this loop taut and glue it in an upward direction against the inside of the box. See Fig. 50. Be sure the lacing is taut before gluing. Pass the ribbon in at the upper hole next on the right, then out at the corner hole. Pass it around the corner and continue. Having reached the starting-point, glue the last end over the first. Be certain that the whole ribbon is taut. A glance at Fig. 50 will show the lacing of the remaining two ribbons. To strengthen the corners, cut four triangles from the waste clippings of cover-paper. A square shown in Fig. 51^ makes two such triangles. Fold each as shown in Fig. 51^. Glue in the box-corners as seen in Fig. 50. Model 30 HEXAGONAL TRAY, LIPPED Figs. 52 and 53. Material: 120-lb. cover. In drawing Fig. 53 get the inner circle first. Keep the compasses spread the same radius and with them so spread, step off the circumference into six spaces. If this is accurately done these spaces will be equal. 74 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT Draw lines connecting the points of intersection and form ing a hexagon. Draw now the outer circle. "Radii r I»)ner circle, \ s /q". Outer c'»rc\e, %*/%. *>>• S3. Lay the ruler connecting two alternate points of the hexagon. This position is indicated by the dashed line. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 75 Draw the lines from the two corners of the hexagon to meet the outer circumference. Lay the ruler again, connect- ing alternate angles, and draw similar lines. In this manner draw two such lines, springing from each angle of the hexagon. Connect these lines, in pairs, at their outer extremities. Thus are completed six rectangles, based upon the sides of the hexagon. Draw now the curvilinear flap based upon each rectangle. The dotted arrow shows radius. Lay the ruler connecting opposite angles of the hexagon. Draw lines connecting these angles with outer circumference.* It is safest for the children to mark, in some way, the lines they are to cut, lest a mistake should spoil the work. Instead of darkening such lines, an X made upon each answers as well. After cutting out, crease the remaining three sides of each rectangle. Glue as shown in Fig. 52. * These hexagon problems have been successfully given to second year children, by means of a suitable dictation. 76 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT Model 31 'BURNT-MATCH RECEIVER Figs. 54 and 55. Material: 120-lb. cover. Pieces are required 7" X n" or over. Draw a pair of parallels the full length of paper and 1 y£'' apart. Draw another pair crossing these to form the central square. Mark out the remaining divisions. To draw the flaps lay the ruler as indicated by the dotted line. Point off the half inch. Draw the lines to this point. Before the cutting, score the sides of the central square and the middle line springing from each corner of the square. No others. Cut out and crease on scored lines. Glue flaps outside as shown in Fig. 54. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT ;; 73 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT Curl the upstanding flaps by first damping the upper sur- face, then rolling on a pencil. Allow to dry, then glue in place. Model 32 TRI CUP, MOUNTED Figs. 56, 57, and 58. F/g. SL Material: 120-lb. cover. In Fig. 57, draw the centre equitriangle by either of our former methods (Model 21). To draw the remainder of the figure, first strike the three axes of the triangle, extending them indefinitely, as shown. The various measurements are now readily made. Cut on heavy lines and glue up. Draw Fig. 58. Cut on heavy lines and glue up. The two parts are now to be united, as in Fig. 56. Touch FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT ; 9 a little glue to the under side of the upper piece, near each angle. Press the pieces together steadily for two minutes. Model :\:) HALF OBLIQUE BUTTON-BOX Figs. 59 and 60. Material: 120-lb. cover. In Fig. 60, draw first the outer square. Then set off the lines half an inch within. In the inner square so formed, set off the lines 1" within, not carrying them beyond the inner square. 8o FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT Fi" in radius. Paste it on the under side of box. Model 35 OBLIQUE MATCH-STAND Figs. 65 and 66. Material: 120-lb. cover. In Fig. 66 draw a 2j{ /; square, producing the lines indefinitely. It pays, in this, and similar models, to test the squareness of each child's square, before the succeeding steps are taken. The remainder of the drawing explains itself. Cut on all heavy lines. Note that this will cut the laps into two sets, those belonging to the collar and those belonging to the body. Score the sides of the central square. Score those lines separating laps from other surfaces. (Be careful to select the right line for scoring. It is a good plan to have the others erased beforehand.) Score lines separating collar from body. 8 4 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT Fold into shape, as seen in Fig. 65. In gluing, the body laps go inside, while the collar laps go outside. z'A - /%" >l/Z After the glue is dry, it is a good plan to pinch up all the angles. This will correct any bowing out of the sides or bottom. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT Figs. 67-70. Model 36 CUBICAL BOX Material: (i) 120-lb. cover. (2) Binders' board No. 70. (3) 50-lb. cover, for facing (2). On 120-lb. cover, draw Fig. 68, in which all squares are of the same size as the centre one. Cut, crease, and glue into box form. Prepare a cover to match. Fig. 69 gives the drawing. Notice in the sketch, Fig. 67, a reinforced top and bottom. These pieces make the box stronger and enrich its appearance. Cut a piece of binders' board about 6 V X 3". Face it on S6 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT " / \ / \ \ / J/„ " 3% s $£. H Z'/z" Sejuare. Fig. jo. r/jf.69. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 87 both eides with 50-lb. cover. The piece should now be dried thoroughly before proceeding". Ironing, alternately, one side and then the other, is an excellent way of drying the board flat. Or it may be pressed in a book. On the board so prepared draw two of Fig. 70. Cut them out. Glue these, one to the box, the other to the box-cover, as seen in Fig. 67. Apply the glue to the box and cover, not to the prepared squares. Apply it sparingly to the corners and edges, instead of spreading it over all the surface. Now place the cover on the box and lay a book over the whole until the glue is dry. Model 37 OBLIQUE TRAY, BOUND Figs. 71 and 72. V's- 7'. Material: for tray, 120-lb. cover; for edging, 50-lb. cover. Draw Fig. 72, the outer rectangle first. To secure the inner one place dots, as shown, 3^" from corners. Lay the ruler connecting a pair of these, and draw an inner line only long enough to answer for the inner rectangle. So continue. 88 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT Score all light lines. Cut all heavy lines. The V-shaped corner-pieces are laps. Don't cut them off. F/0. 7*>. Fold tray together. Glue laps outside. Sharpen the angles up by pinching. Clip off projecting laps. Of the 50-lb. cover, cut strips }i" wide and a few inches long. Fold down the middle as seen in Fig. 740. Now spread the glue sparingly over the first inch or so of such a strip. Press this glued portion into one corner of the tray and clip it off flush with the edge. Edge the other corners in the same way. Edge the outside corners similarly. In like manner glue this edging along all angles of the tray and the top edges, as seen in Fig. 71. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 89 Model 38 HEXAGONAL CATCH-ALL Figs. 73 and 74. F(2- 73. Material: 120-lb. cover for tray ; 50-lb. cover for edging. Draw Fig. 74, the outer circle first. After drawing the inner circle, use the same radius to step off the six angles of the hexagon. Draw the hexagon. Lay the ruler now joining opposite angles of the hexagon, as shown by the dotted line. The ruler, so placed, intersects the outer circumference in two places. Mark each intersection by a dot. The 3/g" lap may now be marked off by placing half of it on each side of this dot. Secure the other five laps in the same way. Cut out; crease, and glue up as usual. Finish with edging as in Model 37. Finish the short upright corners first, inside and out. Then the bottom angles 9 o FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT and the curved upper edges. To fit the edging along these curves, work it between the fingers in such a way as to stretch the fold slightly and wrinkle the open edges. This effect is ]r,r, er circle , j_ft Outer c'trcie, % *l V» '. 7¥cu t seen in the left half of Fig. 74^2. Another method is to clip the edging, at intervals of about %" , part way through, from the open edges toward the fold. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 91 Model 39 HAIR-PIN STAND Figs. 75, 76, and 77. Material: 120-lb. cover. Draw Fig. 76 and cut, fold, and glue, as usual. Laps inside. Draw Fig. 77 and finish up as usual. Clip projecting laps. We have now the two parts seen in the sketch, Fig. 75. Glue them together by applying glue sparingly to the bottom of the larger member, around the edges only not over the whole surface. Place the pieces together as shown. Lay a light book- over the top. Let it remain until the glue is dry. Model 40 BOUND BOOK, NO. 2. This exercise is best turned to account in mending school- books, such as readers, the covers of which have become "dog-eared" or worse. The operations are simple enough if taken one by one, in the proper order. Third-year children should find no difficulty in them provided they have made a reasonable number of the earlier models. The materials are: (1) two pieces of binders' board No. 70, if a stiff cover is desired. If the covers are to be flexi- ble, substitute "heavy wrapping," or even heavy Manilla. 9 2 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT F/ S . 7s. *>jf 77 n$. 7L FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 93 (2) About 2 feet of cheese-cloth, 4" wide. (3) Enough leatherette or else gingham or calico to cover the boards and lap over. (4) Plain paper, white or Manilla, equal to four book-pages in its area. Cut from the binders' board two rectangles, each as broad as the book and )±' greater in length. Cut from the cheese-cloth a strip as long as one of these rectangles and 2" wider than the thickness of the book to be bound. Glue the rectangles to this strip, leaving a space between them i._," wider than the back of the book-body. See Fig. 78. Wff. 78. The book-cover, so far completed, is now to be faced with the leatherette, calico, or whatever has been selected for the outer finish. Cut the latter l". longer and wider than the work to be faced. This piece is now to be pasted (not glued) over the covers, on the side already occupied by the cheese- cloth hinge. See Fig. 79. 94 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT The pasting ought to be done on the busy-work table, in a corner of the room. A pan of ordinary flour-paste is the thing. The best paste-brush is the worker's forefinger. Some newspapers, torn into quarter sheets, are convenient table-covers while this pasting is going on. The projecting portions of the cloth are now to be folded over to the inner side of the cover and pasted down — or glue may be advantageously used for this edgework. See Fig. 79. \JL The work will be smoother if the superfluous folds in the corners are first clipped away. If the work can be pressed it will be the better for it. Cut now a piece of cheese-cloth a little shorter than the book-body and 2" wider than the book is thick. Glue this securely over the back of the book, as shown in Fig. 80. Let the glue dry. The book-body so prepared is now to be fastened inside FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 95 the covers. The glue must be applied only to the projecting flaps of the cheese-cloth, leaving the middle portion dry. Fig. 8 1 shows the work at this point. Lay the work aside to dry awhile. Put newspaper between the sticky cheese-cloth and the book-pages, to protect the latter. 96 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT ( )ne step remains. Open any bound book and notice that the lining of the cover and the fly-leaf are one piece of paper. Prepare two such sheets, out of plain paper, white or Manilla. Cut them as wide as the length of your book-page. Their length must be twice the width of the book-page. In pasting each sheet in place notice that one-half of it must be pasted solidly to the inner side of the book-cover. The paste extends also about yi" onto the fly-leaf, joining it slightly to the first book-page. If the covers, when drying, show a disposition to curl, put them under a weight until dry. Model 41 DROP-EDGED CATCH-ALL Material: 120-lb. cover. Draw Fig. 82, beginning with the outside square. The middle square lies y^' 1 within and the inmost square 1 " within that. Notice that the jMT' measurement (see lower line J fixes the slant of the oblique lines. Cut out on all heavy lines. Score all remaining light lines. We have, on folding, two sets of laps to be glued. Glue the lower set in place first. The upper afterward. All laps must be underneath. (See finished model, Fig. 83.) Clip off projecting laps. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 9 y 6 «'/%"*- / 3'/z e, o TJg. *z rig- 33. 9 8 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT Model 42 SUNFLOWER CATCH-ALL Material: 120-lb. cover. Draw Fig. 84, the outer circle last. Use the same radius Oulgr circle 3/¥. Middle circle Z". ir)Y)er circle l%* to step this outer circumference off into sixths as if to draw a hexagon. Divide one of these sixths into halves. Begin at this point of division and step off into sixths again. This cuts the circumference into twelve equal parts. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 99 Draw a line from the centre of the circle to one of these intersections. Draw another at right angles with the f.rst. This cuts away one-fourth of the circle. On the remaining three-fourths of the circle draw the little scallops. The centres from which they are drawn are obtained by laying the ruler from the centre of the circle to the respec- tive division-marks on outer circumference. Where the ruler crosses second circle each time, place a dot. These dots are centres from which to draw the arcs forming the scallops. The dotted line will illustrate. The teeth may be drawn free-hand, extending from the middle circle to the inmost circle. Before cutting out, add the }£" lap. Cut out on all heavy lines. Glue the piece in a conical form, as seen in Fig. 85, with the lap outside. ^mg£^Ti£. 85. From similar stock cut a circle $%'■' in diameter. This is the base-piece. Bend the little teeth inward. Apply glue to their undt LofC. ioo FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT sides. Press the conical piece in place on the circle. Hold till dry. Cut another circle, 3" in diameter. Glue this on the inside to serve as a floor-covering. Keep the edges pressed down a minute or two. Model 43 OBLONG BOX AND LID Material: (1) Heavy wrapping. (2) Facing-paper (a 50-lb. cover-paper is excellent). (3) The same weight in a har- monizing color, for edging. On the heavy wrapping draw Fig. 86. Cut out and fold. « r * - /" > i To fasten the corners, cut strips of edging }i" wide. Glue such a strip inside the corner as shown in Fig. 86a. Then FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 101 bend it sharply down and glue it on the outside of the same corner. Treat all four corners this way. ^vj. 86>gl. Cut a strip of facing-paper 2" wide and \^ X A" long. Paste this facing around the sides of the box, folding the upper edge C'/s" — ^~^ 1 " ' / > ^^ i if? n s . 87. down the inside of the box, the lower edge onto the bottom. On heavy wrapping draw Fig. 87. The two triangular 02 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT inlets may be drawn free-hand after locating the middle of the line. Cut out and fold. Glue corners with strips, as in previous case. Paste similar strips along the upper edges of this cover piece, as seen in Fig. 88. Cut now a piece of facing-paper 3^" long and i%" wide. Paste it on one of the long sides of the cover so that margins will be left on three sides. On the fourth, or lower edge, the pasted piece is folded over and pasted on the inside. Face the other three sides in the same way. Cut a rect- angle of facing-paper 3 3/j"' X ?■%" ■ Paste it on the top of the cover, leaving a margin on all sides. This completes the model. If now a book or other weight be placed upon it, it will dry smooth. Ambitious pupils may want to line the box with plain paper. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 10 Model 44 OCTAGONAL OBLIQUE TRAY Figs. 89-91. Material: 120-lb. cover. After drawing the two circles in Fig. 90 inscribe the Ti£. 89, octagon in the inner one. The method is given in Fig-, goc. Primary children find nothing formidable about this octagon if it is explained at the blackboard, step by step, as they do their work. The octagon completed, lay the ruler connecting a pair of its opposite angles and crossing the outer circumference on opposite sides. Mark these two intersections. In a similar way, mark a point on the outer circumference opposite each angle of the octagon. METHOD FOR DRAWING THE OCTAGON. Draw a circle, radius, say i%" . Lay ruler across centre and mark points a and /;. 104 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT Spread dividers a distance somewhat longer than the- radius. Use points a and b as centres and draw the arcs giving c. r>$' 90. La}' ruler from c to the centre, crossing circle. Mark d and e. Spread dividers somewhat more than half the distance b—e. With b and e as centres, draw the arcs giving/. Lay ruler from /"to centre. Mark pointy. Draw the line e It one side of an octagon The FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 105 other seven may be spaced off by spreading the dividers e-g and stepping similar lengths off around the circumference. The sides may then be drawn. We have now eight points on the -outer circumference. To right and left of each place other points yb" away. This will make the latter %" apart. F/'3. 90 c Connect each pair of points with the respective angle of the octagon. Strengthen one line of each pair. Cut heavy lines. Crease remaining straight ones. Glue up as seen in Fig. 89, with laps outside. It will enrich this model to bind edges and angles, as in Model 38. The base is constructed as in Fig. 91. Of course the entire drawing completes a circle. Enough is shown in the figure for our purpose. The method is similar to that followed in the piece preced- ing, but the measurements differ. The V-shaped openings at the outer circumference are here }i" across instead of ]/^ r . 106 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT In cutting this figure out, the V-shapes are removed, being too small to use for laps. In their stead, pieces a little wider Tig. 9/, are to be first folded down the middle and then glued in place, nside this base-piece, when it is being glued up. The base is now to be glued to the upper member, as in Fig. 89. Touch the glue sparingly to the bottom of the upper member, at the edges only. Press the pieces in place and hold till dry. Model 45 MATCH-POCKET Figs. 92 and 93. Material: This model can be made in 120-lb. cover, but is more effective in heavy wrapping covered with leatherette. In Fig. 93, first draw a rectangle 3" X A%" . Divide it into rectangles 2^4", i v , and \}i" respectively. Extend the upper edge of the \" rectangle \" toward the left; \%" above draw a line parallel, and 1^" long. Con- nect the outer ends of these lines. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 107 On the slant line so produced, place a dot \yi" from its lower end. Connect this dot with t'ie right end of the \)A" line. To this wing add the two laps shown. They may be drawn free-hand, about %" wide. Draw a corresponding wing, with its laps, on the opposite side of the figure. Mark off the slanted top of the rectangle. Cut heavy lines, crease remaining light ones. Glue up, as in Fig. 92, with laps inside. To face the model with leatherette, first edge all edges and angles, inner and outer. For this purpose cut strips of leatherette }&" wide and strip the back off to make the stuff thinner. For the facing, cut shapes of leatherette correspond- oS FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT ing to the various faces, but slightly smaller, and glue them on. In this gluing be careful to make the edges stick closely. The model is very rich in appearance if this leatherette +— 3" * T facing be made to cover every part, including the back and inside. With the ticket-punch, or a larger one, if at hand, cut the hole for hanging. Model 4G PENCIL-VASE Figs. 94-96. Material: 120-lb. cover. In Fig. 95, draw the main rectangle, 4" X 9". Divide it into six \y 2 " rectangles. At upper end of each draw a semi- circle. At lower end a lap. At the right add the yk" lap. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT [09 Cut on heavy lines, crease light ones. Glue in a hexagonal form, with the lap inside. Bend semicircles outward. Draw Fig. 96, the circles first, then the hexagon within the inner one. Opposite the angles of the hexagon, place dots on the outer circumference. F'JS. 94. To right and left of each of these dots place others S/%" away. We now have eighteen dots, in sets of three. Connect them all with the respective angles of the hexagon. Draw lines, parallel with sides of hexagon, completing the quadrangles. Carefully strengthen the lines to be cut. no FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT * ■+ 7^ - /A A 7^ 7\ ?" - /\ ** Tin. 96. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT m Cut on heavy lines, crease the remaining straight ones. Glue up with laps inside. In uniting the two parts of the model, the upright member is pushed inside the base-piece until it strikes bottom. Test them and see if they fit properly. If so, apply glue to the six laps at the lower end of the upright member. These laps are, of course, bent inward toward the centre. The glue is applied to their outer, or lower, faces. Push the two pieces together. Place a book across the top, as a weight, while the glue dries. The six vertical edges, continuous in both members, should now be edged, as seen in Fig. 94. Model 4/1 PENDANT MATCH-SAFE Figs. 97-99. Material : Heavy wrapping faced with leatherette. The teacher should cut Fig. 98 out of tough cardboard. The children may be allowed to trace around the edges of the pattern so prepared. The dotted lines need not be drawn. After cutting, this Fig. 98 should be edged and faced with leatherette. The facing piece may be shaped by tracing about the piece to be covered. The leatherette is then cut }£" H2 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT inside this line. The back may be faced similarly in Manilla instead of leatherette. Fig. 99 is simple enough for the children to draw. It is cut, creased, and glued with laps inside. It is then edged and faced with leatherette (except on the back). n&. n In gluing this box to the back piece, apply glue to the back of the box, around the edges only. Press the two pieces together and hold till dry. The sandpaper (preferably the finest number) is now to be cut and glued in position. An old pair of scissors should be reserved for cutting sandpaper. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 13 A._ ^" MX "7 '/+: . ..-z 3/*" Sctricl paper, 2'/*: r/$. 9 8. T This drawing is too difficult for primary children. The teacher should cut this figure out in tough cardboard. The children may then trace around it for their own models. 114 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT The upper hole is made with a punch, the lower with a smaller punch or a brad-awl. See Fig. 97. * — t t " — ^ % W '/x" ■ /'W Vx" W ' *l s T \ A A A A / P'S- 99. 1 \ ) Model 48 LOTUS TRAY Figs. 100-103. Materials: 120-lb. cover-paper and two shades of leather- F/\g. 100. ette, all harmonizing. An adjacent harmony in olive-greens gives a fine effect. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT ii5 Draw Fig. 101 on cover-paper. Note that the inner circle is to be cut quite away. Also one-quarter of the remainder less the }i" lap. Glue up in conical form. The joint will be smoother if the ends are shaved thin with a sharp knife. Or they may be sandpapered thin. Draw Fig. 102 on leatherette. After the two circles are drawn, mark out the quadrant to be cut away. With the dividers spread the radius of large circle, begin at a and divide the circumference into sixths ; begin similarly at b and go around. The result will be twelfths. Using these intersections as centres and keeping the previous radius, the scallops may now be marked off. i6 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT Cut the figure out and fasten it on the inside of the conical piece, using occasional touches of glue. P/£. IOZol. The rim of leatherette projecting below the cover-paper is to be snipped at intervals into "teeth." Fig. 102^ shows the work at this stage. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT n; Draw Fig. 103 on cover-paper (or heavy wrapping - will do). For a method of drawing the octagon revert to Fig. goc Page 105. Cut out the octagon. Edge it with leatherette, stripped thin. Face the top with leatherette, the bottom with Manilla. To complete the model bend the " teeth " inward. Touch their lower surface with glue. Press the octagon against them as seen in Fig. 100. Hold till dry. Finally, cut a circle of leatherette y in radius. Glue it to the inside bottom, covering the teeth. Model 49 SQUARE VASE Figs. 1 04-106. Material: Leatherette and 120-lb. cover-paper. If Fig. 105 is deemed too difficult for dictation, the teacher may cut out a pattern, around which the children may trace. The y?" circle is punched out with a " bar-punch " (price, 20 cents at the hardware store). Fig. 105^. n8 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT The model requires four pieces, as in Fig. 105, cut from 120-lb. cover. Each piece is now to be backed with leatherette, as in K/g. /o* Fig. 105*7. The leatherette may be shaped by tracing around the cover-piece. Back of the leatherette another piece of cover-paper is now to be glued. It will be the same area as the leatherette, plus the dotted laps in Fig. 105/?. We now have the four sides of our vase and each side is in three thicknesses. Of the projecting laps (Fig. 105^) the upper ones are glued over in front. The bottom lap is folded inward to be later glued to the base-piece. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 1 1 * /% Tig. /os. Kg. /OSa. T/Q. /0S&-. Tig. 'osc. 120 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT The side-lap is folded inward. Glue is applied to its outer face and the adjacent side of the vase is affixed. After the four panels are thus joined, edge the corners with cover-paper, preferably of lighter weight but the same color. Fig. 1 06 is the base-piece. -W The holes are cut with the ticket-punch. Back them with bits of the leatherette used in the panels. Glue the base-piece together as usual and glue the top- piece to it. Cut a square of cover-paper 1 y±" on a side. Glue it to the inside floor of the vase, applying the glue near the edges only. If the completed work shows the least tendency to warp in drying, fill it with sand. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 12 i Model 50 FULL-BOUND PORTFOLIO Figs. 107-109. This model is simpler in its construction than some of those preceding. The fact that it requires surface-pasting over a considerable area, however, makes it an exercise rather cumbrous for the ordinary class-room. Normal schools and others provided with special rooms for hand-work will find the portfolio quite within the abilities of children advanced in the work. Material: (1) 70-lb. binders' board; (2) leatherette; (3) 122 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT lining-paper ; * (4) 4 feet of dark-colored tape; (5) a strip of muslin ; (6) a strip of vellum or other book-cloth. The latter should agree with the leatherette in color. It may be had as low as 25 cents a yard at bookbinders. From binders' board cut two rectangles, each g}4 ,f X 13". From the lining-paper cut two rectangles, each 10" X I2#". For the present these linings are pasted by one edge only, to the outside of the board (Fig. 108) and then folded over to F/ff. i° 8 - the inside. In this position the lining should fall about yi" short of the board, at the three open edges. Now connect the boards with a muslin strip, using glue. Leave a space of 1" between the boards. Leave about yi" at the ends of the muslin unglued for the present. * Any light-weight paper — Manilla, white, or the "lithographed" paper used for lining books, which see. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT 123 Cut a strip of vellum as wide as the muslin and an inch longer. Glue it to that part of the muslin already glued to the boards, but leave the middle part free of glue. Fold the projecting ends of vellum inside the muslin, con- cealing the ends of latter. Glue the vellum ends down to the boards. Cut two rectangles of leatherette, each 10" X 14". Paste them on the outside of the boards, leaving %" laps at top, bottom, and front. Before applying the paste dampen the board and the inside of leatherette with a sponge. Clip away the corners and paste these laps over on the inside of the board. With a knife-point cat slits (from the outside) through which to pass the tapes. Cut the tape into %" lengths. Pass them through the respective slits, from the outside. About \" of tape should pass inside. This is to be glued down to the board in the direction away from the edge. As a last step, paste the lining smoothly down on the inside of the board, first damping both board and paper with the sponge. It now remains to dry the portfolio. To prevent warping, both the inner and outer surfaces must be dried at the same rate. This may be accomplished by turning the model alternately inside out and right side out at intervals, as often as any tendency to warp is seen. I2 4 FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT Otherwise the portfolio may be dried under pressure (two or three geographies), but this will take several days. A third and rapid method of drying is to use a heated smoothing-iron. **'&• '09. If the iron is too hot or if too much pressure is used, it will sear the leatherette. Place a sheet of paper or muslin between iron and model. Iron the inside and outside alternately until dry. If warping occurs, iron the convex side. This ironing greatly improves the model in appearance. PUBLICATIONS OF THE BAKER & TAYLOR CO., Publishers and Booksellers, 33 37 EAST SEVENTEENTH ST., NEW YORK. FROM THE CHILD'S STANDPOINT. Studies of Child-nature. A Book for Parents and Teachers. By Florence Hull Winterburn. i2mo, cloth, with a por- trait of the author. $1.25. This book is a collection of studies of child-nature and child-life, written with that sympathetic insight into the heart of childhood for which this author is so justly noted. "Of more service as interpreter of children's natures than the formal child-study lore or easy treatises on pedagogy for mothers." — Literary World. "What we all know, but what no one ever said so well before. Abounds in wholesome truths." — Journal of Education. "A point which both parents and teachers need to have brought home to them." — The Independent. " Suggestive: present a new view of the ethical relations of parents and children." — The Outlook. " Singularly luminous studies. Child study humanized." — The Churchman. "Gives an insight into the nature of childhood." — Trained Motherhood. "Full of good sense and skillful suggestion." — The Congre- gaiionalist. " Cannot be commended too highly." — Living Church. "Thoroughly judicious." — Ecclesiastical Review. Sent, postpaid, on receipt of the price, by THE BAKER & TAYLOR CO., PUBLISHERS, 3337 E. 17th St., Union Sq. North, New York. BAKER & TAYLOR CO.'S PUBLICATIONS. NURSERY ETHICS. By Florence Hull Winter- burn. 12mo, cloth, $1.00. "This is one of the very best Looks that we have ever seen upon the general subject of the relations of parents and child- ren, and the duties of the former. Indeed, we should not scruple much about leaving out the qualification and calling it 'the very best'." — Public Opinion. "It is a word well and wisely spoken to mothers and to fathers. The treatment is full of feeling : it is enriched with deep, womanly sentiment, but is also calm and clear, and its suggestions have a definiteness which gives them practical value. We wish the little book a most successful mission." — Popular Science Monthly. "The philosophy of child-training has found in Mrs. Flor- ence Hull Winterburn a clear, practical, and efficient apostle. The nursery ethics of Mrs. Winterburn are the combined re- sult of years of serious study of the principles of justice as applied to the training of young children, and of practical ex- perience in carrying them out." — The Churchman. "The parent who can read it without benefit must either have attained perfection or be beyond the reach of grace." — New York Evening Post. ' ' The book is written ouc of a mother's experience, and shows everywhere a knowledge of the best modern thought upon the s ub j ect . " — Cong rego tiona lis t. " ' Nursery Ethics ' is a book which should be in the hands of every parent, teacher, judge, and every other person having dealings with children." — Boston Ideas. "Mrs. Winterburn goes at her subject directly. She does not theorize, but treats the matter from a practical standpoint throughout. Her work is one that should be in the hands of every parent and every teacher." — Milwaukee Journal. " It is safe to say that if this little volume could be made a text- book of every young married couple, the next generation would be a vast improvement on any one which has preceded it." — Boston Herald. Sent, postpaid, on receipt of the price, by THE BAKER AND TAYLOR COMPANY, PUBLISHERS, 33-37 Ei 17th St., Union Square North, New York. BAKER cO TAYLOR CO.'S PUBLICATIONS. WITH THE WILD FLOWERS. From Pussy-willow to Thistle-down. A rural chronicle of our flower friends and foes, describing them under their familiar English names. New and revised edition. By Maud Going. 16mo, cloth, fully illustrated, $1.00. CONTENTS. WITH THE WILD FLOWERS BY MAUD GOING The Pin nt World. Flowers and their Visitors. Buds. Hidden Treasuries. Willow-pussies and Al- der-tassels. A Wreath for the May- queen. The Calla's Poor Rela- tions. Cherry-bloom and Cot- tonwood. Spring's Younger Chil- dren. Field-daisies. Twilight and June in a Garden. Water-side and Pond Flowers. Unbidden (iuests. Winged Burglars. Ogre-flowers. Orchids. Among the Late Wild Flowers. The Happy Autumn Fields. Seeds on their Travels. Foes Afield - Plants Poisonous to the Touch. A delightful volume giving flower facts, rather than mere names and classifications. It is written by a true lover of nature, who adds to exceptional literary feeling the rare gift of making instruction thoroughly enjoyable by a style at once clear, entertaining and imaginative. The book carries us through the whole season with the flowers as they make their appearance. It is accurate in its illustrations and text to the point of scientific precision, and its style and method (which discriminate it widely from the ordinary "botany") enhance, through their intrinsic attractiveness, its power to instruct. "A valuable and interesting little work. Much quaint and out-of-the-way knowledge is gathered into its pages and communicated with friendly simplicity. Odd facts in the history of plants are explained in such a winsome way that it is not until the reader closes the book that he realizes how much scientific information has been administered to him. Many reminders of field and forest may be found in this delightful little volume." — New York Tribune. THE BAKER AND TAYLOR COMPANY, PUBLISHERS, 33-37 E. 17th St., Union Square North, New York. BAKER & TAILOR CO.'S PUBLICATIONS. MR. CHUPES AND MISS JENNY : THE LIFE STORY OF TWO ROBINS. By Effie Bignell. 12mo, cloth, $1.00. A charming account of the life irt captivity of two birds whose misfortunes made them at first the involuntary com- panions of humankind, and whose affection for their gentle guardian made them unwilling afterwards to leave her for a life of liberty with their own kind. All friends of the birds will detect in the writer of this sympathetic story a true lover of birds, not only from her perception of the most inter- esting of her pets' experiences, but also from her general attitude toward feathered life. The Audubon Society is sure to approve of her because, like its members, she reverses the old saying and really believes that two birds in the hand are worth nowhere near so much as one in the bush. FIRST YEARS IN HANDICRAFT. By Walter J. Kenyon, State Normal School, San Francisco, Cal. Square 12mo, fully illustrated, $1.00. This is a handbook of handicraft rather than " sloyd " or manual training, and is intended to show little folks how to make useful things with the ruler, pencil and scissors. It is meant for children, either at home or at school, of from seven to eleven or twelve years of age — children who have out- grown the employments of the kindergarten and have yet to attain the growth qualifying them for the forms of handi- craft common in the grammar grades. The materials used are simple and cheap, but tough as leather and beautiful in color and texture. The " models " are really elementary and are things little folks can make, and all of them are real intrinsic things which can be used at home or in school. Many years of intimate acquaintance with children, their ways and their capabilities, have fitted the author for ac- complishing his task with discretion and efficiency. THE BAKER AND TAYLOR COMPANY, PUBLISHERS, 33-37 E. 17th St., Union Square North, New York. TV/Tutt If* M**.~~.