% '»*^V-^"' '^M!^^^^\ ^^^r^ oV'^^Ol'- '^bv^ 'bV '^o^ i"^ .»••'. ^^-^. \ 0^ sl.*^'* ^P' '> "^-^o^ r^'^^S""". ^o'^ "Mm^rr:^ ^j^r^ oV'^^^P^- '>*^<-*- v-o^ ,..,. ,-^^ i ^oV" .v-^ -<=>^, • • * .V* , '#' • "W" < o V *" A^ . L ' . ^ n^ . o " • . '^ A^ •■ „*^ o * a Food Friends We Neglect A Group of Rich Nutrients which Deserve Seats of Honor at Our Tables By C. HOUSTON GOUDISS Food Advisor of The People's Home Journal; Author of "Foods that Will Win the War" and "Making the Most of Our Meat Supply"; Food Economist of national reputation. .^ y//p PRIVATELY PRINTED BY THE PEOPLE'S HOME JOURNAL NEW YORK COPYRIGHT, 1921 THE PEOPLE'S HOME JOURNAL NEW YORK JiiN -7 1921 ©CIA614786 CONTENTS IN JUSTICE TO A NEGLECTED FOOD PAGE NINE CITRUS FRUITS AS HEALTH BUILDERS PAGE TWENTY-THREE WHY WE SHOULD EAT MORE LAMB PAGE THIRTY-SIX REASONS FOR RAISINS PAGE FORTY-EIGHT >< THE MOTHER OF CIVILIZATION PAGE SIXTY THE DATE, THE FIG AND THE PRUNE PAGE SEVENTY-FOUR FOREWORD T ^ HROUGH long centuries of habit our food tastes have run in a rut. In refusing nature's repeated invitation to feast on certain of her most plentiful and valuable food gifts, we have not only limited the pleasures of eating, but notably lessened its profits in health, strength and efficiency. Most of us have long regarded nuts as food inci- dentals — fit only for palate-sharpening tidbits — and until quite recently have viewed citrus fruits largely in the light of table ornaments. Though milk is universally recognized as the most perfect form of human nutriment, a majority of people still fail to use one-half as much as they should. This neglect costs the American people mil- lions of dollars a day in undeveloped physical energy. Although the public mind has been changing in regard to the value of dates, figs and prunes, these rich nutritive fruits, which also serve as ideal regula- tors of the most important body functions, are not used as freely as they should be. And as for lamb, an unwarranted prejudice in favor of beef and pork has crowded it out of the menu in a manner which should bring shame to commonsense men and women. Millions of people have yet to know this really marvelous group of rich nutrients as their best food friends. To reveal them as such is the purpose of these pages. C. Houston Goudiss. O0OOOO000OO<>XXX3O0OOO0OO0O0C)0C)OO0C)O0OOOO00CH3OOO00CO0C0000OOCO00OOOC>0OOOC100CXXXDOOOOOOOOC)OOOOOOOCKXXX3(>^^ Why We Should Eat More Lamb A PLEA FOR THE CHEAPER CUTS OF THE BEST OF MEATS J[he. ,HERE are a good many things we Americans should do in order to make the most of ourselves and our resources, and since food is a fundamental, it is inevitable that some of these duties should fall in that field. We are a meat-eating people. We never have had to deny ourselves in this, because vast sweeps of grazing land have given us a broad and firm foun- dation for meat production. But in the free exercise of this appetite we have made one mistake. Largely because of a foolish prejudice, based on ignorance, we have neglected lamb. If you happen to live in that part of the nation east of Pittsburgh and north of Washington, you may wonder at such a state- ment. But when told that 75 per cent, of all the lamb slaughtered in this land is consumed in this particu- lar corner of the country — although 80 per cent, of it is raised west of the Mississippi — you will under- stand. In other words, lamb is largely a homeless meat outside of the section named — and chiefly because a good many millions of people have heard it has a "woolly" flavor! THE CHEAPER CUTS OF THE BEST MEAT Now, an antique sheep which, after several seasons of wool-bearing, finds its way to some meat market may have a flavor reminiscent of mittens or muf- flers — if carelessly cooked — but such sheep never should and seldom do get into food channels. Years ago, when conditions were altogether different, they were the kind commonly killed for eating. Hence the present inheritance of ignorance which still stands as a barrier to one of the most delicate, deli- cious and nutritious of all meats. Simply on the basis of goodness this amounts to a deprivation of distressing proportions. Epicures know that the flavor of lamb, whether in chop, roast or stew, is not only tempting, but satisfying. And few things gastronomic can rank higher in memory than an English mutton chop, browned to a Rem- brandt tone and served with a baked potato which looks for all the world like a huge cotton boll just bursting. I am dwelling on this matter of flavor because — well, because flavor is the heart and soul of any food. It is the first and foremost reason for our liking of meat. And here is a meat quite incomparable in sev- eral ways, which is the victim of a veritable conspir- acy of ignorance based on what someone has told someone else, and so on until a vicious circle of false notions is formed, shutting out multitudes from the benefits of the most healthful and attractive of meats, as well as one of the most palatable. Yet the average American west of Pittsburgh and south of Washington eats beef twenty times to lamb 37 WHY WE SHOULD EAT MORE LAMB once — ^not only depriving himself of a model meat, but, by his action, hindering the natural growth of a great industry which provides not only the best of food, but of raiment also. Our country this year will raise about 300,000,000 pounds of wool, whereas its needs in this line will be nearly 800,000,000 pounds. We shall have to call on other countries for the difference, just as we were forced to do during the war, when our position in this regard would have been critical but for access to the friendly markets of British colonies and South America. The Most Wholesome Meat Why is lamb "incomparable" in some ways? The first answer to this question lies in its supe- rior wholesomeness. Sheep are notably free from diseases which affect large numbers of cattle and hogs. You know, of course, that government inspectors pass upon all meat before it is offered for sale in the market. This is done to protect the health of the people — and particularly because both cattle and hogs are subject to tuberculosis. Probably you are not aware of the extent to which this disease exists. Of 27,000,000 hog carcasses inspected by agents of the United States Bureau of Animal Industry in a recent year, 31,500 were condemned because of tuberculosis and 870,000 partly condemned. Of 10,000,000 cattle inspected the same year, 38 THE CHEAPER CUTS OF THE BEST MEAT 27,000 were wholly and 49,000 partly condemned. Of 13,000,000 sheep likewise inspected during the same period, woiow^ was wholly or partly condemned. This remarkable freedom from disease among lambs is due, in all probability, to the fact that sheep eat what nature provides for them and in the way nature intends they should eat it. Man has worked out diets and menus for cattle and hogs, and his skill has wrought miracles of weight and appearance, but this civilizing of foods and dietaries brought with it the penalties of disease. As a result, the sheep carcass which hangs in the butcher's stall represents the cleanest and most healthful meat within man's power to command. It is nature's own brand of pure food. Even if lamb and mutton did have a flavor one had to get used to, it would be worth while getting used to it, under such circumstances. But, as I al- ready have said and wish to repeat, there is no dan- ger of even a tinge of "wool" flavor attending the dish if the animal is properly slaughtered and the "fell" (the thin, papery membrane that covers the carcass) is removed before cooking. From the economic standpoint lamb also is in- comparable. Mutton and lamb sell at lower prices than other meats, for the excellent reason that na- ture provides free food for sheep and thus assists in making their meat freer for man. Price in itself should not be required as an inducement, for the goodness and nutritive worth of these meats are in themselves sufficient reason for widespread use. But 39 WHY WE SHOULD EAT MORE LAMB the inducement exists — as if nature had determined to hasten the day when lamb will come into its own on Uncle Sam's big table! If you have confined your lamb purchases to rib or loin chops, you may not be able to appreciate this. Such cuts are higher in price than any other in the carcass, because they represent the choicest parts. And because the average American isn't always wise in his quest for the "very best," he has formed a habit of demanding these to the exclusion of other cuts which are equally delicious and far cheaper. It is human to want what is hardest to get. That's why the eight or nine pounds of chops in a 40-pound lamb carcass come so high. Everybody is anxious to get them because nearly everybody is ignorant of the fact that other parts are just as good and far more economical. Of course, nothing is nicer to look at than a full "eyed" rib chop, daintily "frenched" and emitting a fragrance that would tempt old Lucullus to rise from his grave and smack his lips. But this is a deli- cacy, fraught with such waste, and it is as unfair to use it for basing the economic value of lamb as it would be to figure the value of fowl in general by the market price of golden pheasant. To a certain extent the cheaper cuts of beef have been banefully neglected for many years. But this is not a circumstance when compared to the way in which the cheaper cuts of lamb and mutton have been ignored. As a matter of actual fact, public indifference to such cuts has made it almost impos- 40 THE CHEAPER CUTS OF THE BEST MEAT sible for butchers to handle lamb and mutton car- casses without loss, in many parts of the land. Yet whoever has sat down to a feast of roast stuffed shoulder of lamb — O, savory dish ! — or par- taken of neck of lamb en casserole, knows better than words can tell how "more-ish" are these meat de- lights. All such persons must join in pitying the misguided American housewife who, according to government statistics, buys annually for each mem- ber of her family an average of 71 pounds of pork, 67 pounds of beef and jive pounds of lamb! — a meat of rare virtue in every particular. Even if the man or woman at the dinner table doesn't care to remember that lamb contains a smaller amount of "purins" — substances which have a tendency to produce rheumatism and gout in the consimier — than any other meat, the fact that such palatable portions can be had for such reasonable expenditure should speedily work a change in this curious situation, and raise the average per capita consumption of lamb and mutton to a figure more in keeping with their flavor, healthfulness and re- markable nutritive content. Lamb's Food Value It is natural, of course, to think of beef as the most nutritious meat we have. That is a mental habit. Because of it, the man who orders a slice of roast beef feels he has provided for himself the maximum of food-fuel. But he is fooling himself. In caloric (energy-producing) value, the loin of beef from which his order is cut is only two-thirds as nutritive 41 WHY WE SHOULD EAT MORE LAMB as loin of mutton. Uncle Sam has figured this out to a pin-point of accuracy, and pound for pound he assures us that the fuel value in calories of beef loin is only 1020, compared to 1575 for mutton loin. This is true of every other part of lamb or mutton as compared with beef. Even the neck of mutton has a higher food value than loin of beef. And mut- ton flank is twice as nutritious as beef hindquarter. So, while we've been depriving ourselves of the goodness and economy of lamb and mutton, we've been denying om'selves also a source of nourishment far more productive of strength and energy than our beloved beef — and more easily digested in the average stomach! Because of its digestibility, lamb broth is one of the universal foods for sick folk and invalids who cannot assimilate other meats. Many a person re- cuperating from an illness is permitted to eat a small chop while beefsteak is still a remote possi- bility! "What fools these mortals be !" said Puck through Will Shakespeare three hundred years ago. He might be even more emphatic today if he were here to know that 25,000,000 Americans are eating 75 per cent of our lamb and mutton production, while the remaining 75,000,000 consume only 25 per cent ! It is largely a matter of education to make this three-fourths of our population appreciate their mistake in letting the other one-fourth eat three- fourths of the lamb. But not altogether that. There is a bigger and more important phase to 42 THE CHEAPER CUTS OF THE BEST MEAT this matter. The first need of any people is food. When food was abundant enough to be plucked from bushes, shaken from trees or felled with a stone or a club by the wayside, no one thought much about it — although, even then, it was the prime considera- tion of life. When men and women began to congregate in groups ; when communities took the place of strag- gling families ; when cities came as a sort of glorifi- cation of the community trend — then food became a problem. And with the growth and multiplication of great urban centers of population, this problem has developed marvelous complexity. For a few hundred thousand colonists to keep themselves fed and clothed was a fairly simple proposition. For 100,000,000 people to achieve adequate nourishment and sufficient raiment is quite another thing. Flocks Should Be Increased Heee it is that the lamb steps in as a prize solver of perplexities, though as yet the average American has not recognized the useful creature as such. "My coat is your coat, your warm undergarment, your blanket to defend you against chill at night, your constant protection against the vagaries of weather," says the lamb. "I supply the soft warmth which keeps your ba- bies in health at a time when life hangs by a slender thread. I give you armor to ward off cold and wet, when, as strong men, you go pioneering into crude, strange lands. I enfold age in comforting garments which hold death at bay." 43 WHY WE SHOULD EAT MORE LAMB This bit of fancy is not merely figurative. It rep- resents a wonderful fact which we Americans are ignoring. The succulent herbage on which sheep thrive is strewn bountifully over millions of acres from sea to sea. Where one flock now grazes a hun- dred might easily be fed and all without much addi- tional cost or care — for sheep find their own food. This manifolding of flocks would come quickly if all America were to wake up to the goodness of the meat that thus could be provided. Supply is deter- mined by demand. Let our people turn as they should to lamb and mutton, and lo, our wool problem would be largely solved ! We would become a self- clothing as well as a self-feeding nation. And that would have more than a material meaning to our present and our future. If such a goal were attainable only through some measure of sacrifice, still it would be worth the effort and the self-denial. But this is not the case. Go into any one of the famous hotels or restau- rants in New York, Boston, Philadelphia, and ask which meat is most sought. "Lamb" is the invariable answer. In these places no one ever thinks of what a thing costs. "How good?" is the common criterion. And on this basis alone the preference for lamb and mut- ton has grown to its present proportions. So it is not in any sense a matter of sacrifice. It simply is a matter of selecting and using a meat which epicures and connoisseurs regard as superior in texture and fiavor. 44 THE CHEAPER CUTS OF THE BEST MEAT Why shouldn't the American housewife, whose patriotism always is willing to do its duty, come to the fore and see that Uncle Sam does eat more lamb? Why doesn't she look into this matter? Even though she may have inherited some foolish doubts, wouldn't it be a good plan for her to give lamb and mutton a fair trial? Those of us who have tried it have sometimes been a bit discouraged at the prices asked. This is due to the fact that most of them have sought only the ribs, loin and leg — the costliest cuts. Get acquainted with the neck, shoulder, shank and breast of lamb, Mrs. America! Test on these cuts your skill as a cook. Keep an eye on the faces at your table as the meat portion is tasted. Then for- mulate your plans for the future. You will be furnishing better food for your family and your friends. You will be saving money on your meat bill. But above all, you will be encouraging a vital industry which, in the long run, will play a large part in the development and welfare and lead- ership of the land you love. It is a part worth playing, from every standpoint. 45 RECIPES FOR CHEAP CUTS Boned Shoulder, Stuffed Have the butcher remove the bone from a shoulder of lamb. Pre- pare a stuflBng from the following recipe and fill the cavity with it. Tie firmly into shape and place in a roasting pan. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour and pour one-half cupful of boiling water in the pan. Cook in a hot oven until the flour begins to brown, then re- duce the heat to a moderate temperature and continue cooking twenty minutes for each pound. Baste every twenty minutes with the fat in the pan. Peel the required number of onions and potatoes and parboil each for ten minutes. Drain and place in the pan around the meat about forty minutes before the meat is done. Remove the meat to a hot platter, surround with the browned onions and potatoes and serve with gravy made from the liquid in the pan. The stuffing for shoulder of lamb requires two cupfuls of bread crumbs, one teaspoonful of salt, one small onion chopped fine, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, three tablespoonfuls of melted fat and one egg. Mix all ingredients together with just enough hot water to moisten. Braised Shoulder of Lamb Order the shoulder boned and stuff it as in the preceding recipe. Melt one-third cupful of drippings, add one-fourth cupful of chopped onion, one-half cupful of diced carrots, and one-half cupful of diced turnips. Cook for five minutes and add one-fourth bay leaf, a sprig of parsley, one and one-half teaspoonfuls of salt and two cupfuls of hot water. Place the mutton in a deep roasting pan, pour over it this mix- ture, cover and cook slowly for two hours. Remove the meat to a hot platter and thicken liquid in the pan with flour to make a gravy. Fncassee of Lamb Cut into pieces for serving three pounds of neck or breast, sprinkle with salt and pepper and roll in flour. Brown in melted drippings. Add two sliced onions, one-half cupful of diced carrots and one-half cupful of diced celery. Pour over enough water to cover the meat, cover closely and simmer until the meat is tender — about one hour and thirty minutes. Boil one cupful of rice until tender, drain and arrange around the edge of a hot platter. Place the meat in the center. Thicken the gravy with flour, season with salt and pepper and pour over the meat. Scotch Broth Ingredients: Three pounds of lamb from neck or shoulder, three pints of cold water, one-half cupful of pearl barley, one-half cupful of diced carrots, one-half cupful of diced celery, one-half cupful of diced turnips, one-fourth cupful of sliced onion, salt and pepper to season, 46 THE CHEAPER CUTS OF THE BEST MEAT two tablespoonfuls of butter, two tablespoonfuls of flour and one table- spoonful of parsley. Soak barley overnight in cold water. Cut meat from bones, and put in a kettle with the cold water and barley. Heat quickly to the boiling point, skim and sinuner one hour. Put the bones in another kettle, cover with cold water, heat to the boiling point and simmer one hour. Strain and add to the meat mixture with the vege- tables and salt and pepper to season. Cook slowly until the vegetables are tender. Thicken with butter and flour rubbed together and sprinkle with parsley just before serving. Breaded Cutlets Ingredients: Two pounds of leg chops or cutlets, cut one-half inch thick, one egg, one tablespoonful of cold water, bread crumbs and two cupfuls of tomato or thin brown sauce. Wipe cutlets with a damp cloth, sprinkle with salt and pepper, roll in flour, beaten egg and then in crumbs. Melt four tablespoonfuls of drippings in a hot frying pan, put in the cutlets and cook until brown on both sides. Drain off the fat, add sauce, cover closely and simmer thirty minutes. Serve very hot. Shoulder Chops en Casserole Wipe two pounds of shoulder chops and brown quickly in a hot fry- ing pan. Brush with hot fat, season with salt and pepper and place in casserole. Parboil for fifteen minutes one cupful of diced carrots and drain. Put them in casserole with one cupful of peas, one cupful of potato balls and two cupfuls of thin brown sauce. Cover and cook slowly for thirty minutes, or until the potatoes are tender. Add twelve small white onions cooked until soft and drained. Serve from casserole, seasoned to taste. 47 000C>0000CO00000000000000000C)0000000000CX30C>0CKXXX)00<^^ Reasons for Raisins JLROi WHY THIS DELICIOUS DRIED FRUIT SHOULD BE A DAILY PART OF THE DIET IN EVERY HOME ROM a palate point of view, the prime reason for raisins is their rich, pleasing flavor. In this no other dried fruit approaches them. They rank high among those good things we just can't stop eating, having once started. I know busy men who carry raisins in their coat pockets and nibble at them like a child with a sack of candy in school. I know homes in which the raisin jar, placed where all may have a chance at it, is an institution like the cooky crock or the nut bowl. And I know something else which you and everyone should know. I know that every neglected opportunity to eat raisins is conclusive evidence of a lack of "food sense" — knowledge of the importance of food to health. For the raisin, tempting and delicious as it is, cannot be classed merely as a dainty, a confection, an occasional sweet. In the average home that is our present attitude, however. Nuts and raisins or- nament the holiday table and are passed in a per- functory way at the close of a monster meal. A host who had beefsteak handed around as a finale to the REASONS FOR RAISINS feast would be regarded as the unfortunate victim of incipient insanity! Yet in food value alone the raisins served as a delicacy to top off the meal are twice as rich as steak. No sweet is tastier, I'll admit. But here's a sweet that's also a meat — meat and medicine, too. And when the American people come to a full apprecia- tion of the raisin, om* average annual per capita consumption of one pound and a third of raisins will surely leap upward and approach the figure in Eng- land, where people eat an average of five pounds. The sweet that's meat and medicine ! These words paint a good picture of the raisin — the reddish-brown, sugary, dried grape which comes chiefly from the world's real "gold coast" of Cali- fornia, to supply us with solidified sunshine in a rare form. For while the sun ripens the material for raisins just as it ripens every other fruit, in this case the celestial source of heat, light and energj^ also serves as a master of the curing process. After the luscious raisin grapes, which California produces at the rate of more than a quarter billion pounds a year, have been cut from the vines, they are placed on trays and left for a certain time to dry in the sun. Then they are stacked to cure more slowly, and when "done to a turn," are taken to the packing houses and sorted according to varieties and grades. So from start to finish the raisin is sole- ly a natural product, with nothing added and noth- ing taken away. Man simply lets the sun do the work and attractively packs the result. 49 REASONS FOR RAISINS In this wonderful process of raisin-making, Old Sol manages to incorporate in the finished product more iron than he puts in any other fruit, fresh or dried, and more than is found in most of our com- mon foodstuffs. If the reader thinks this a rela- tively unimportant point, let the next few para- graphs be read with extra care. Of all the minerals our bodies must have — and certain minerals, as you know, are vital to physical existence — iron is the most important. Iron defi- ciency, as a disease, baffles the medical profession, and the only method of attack thus far developed is treatment with inorganic iron. That is why our best tonics nearly always contain this ingredient. Even so, they are as a rule far from satisfactory. The body of an average healthy person contains less than one-tenth of an ounce of iron, yet this in- finitesimal amount is so necessary to the mainten- ance of life that even a slight deficiency soon shows in pale cheeks, flabby muscles and general lack of "tone." In the language of science, "metabolism" is disturbed. Metabolism is that mysterious process by which food materials which are not alive are transformed into the cell-structure of living tissues and made a part of the conscious, thinking creature called man. Of all wonders, this easily is the greatest. For it is the turning of inert matter into pulsing, breathing personality which sees, feels and dares, and through love and labor constantly is adding to the sum total of human achievement. 50 REASONS FOR RAISINS "Iron stands in the closest possible relation to the fundamental processes of metabolism," says Dr. H. C. Sherman of Colmnbia University, in a study of this subject prepared for and published by the United States Government. "It is an essential con- stituent both of the oxygen-carrying constituents of the blood and of the substances which appear to con- trol the most important activities within the cells. It is therefore of the highest importance that the food shall supply sufficient amounts of iron in forms which are readily assimilated." It is iron that makes red blood and lack of iron that pales the cheeks and takes the pep out of life. Neither vegetable nor animal life could exist with- out it. Most of the iron in our bodies is in the blood. There is no reserve stock of it, as of lime. So the amount needed for normal health must be supplied daily in the food we eat. And while nearly every food contains a little of this invaluable mineral, cer- tain ones supply it in extra generous measure. More than this, if we try to get the iron we need in any other way than through the food, we fail. Nature apparently has decreed that man must eat his way to iron-sufficiency, and nature offers the raisin as one of the chief food channels for this supply. In some European health centers, the so-called "grape cure" is popular, especially in cases of iron deficiency and obesity. The patient under treatment eats only ripe grapes — first cousins to raisins — and starting with a small amount, dailj'^ increases the 51 REASONS FOR RAISINS portion until seven or eight pounds are eaten every twenty-foiu- hours. The success of this treatment has been marked. When you look at a tempting cluster of raisins, peeping from between the lace edgings of a flat box or nesting in a bowl of nuts you are not moved to think of iron. Your thoughts are lost in a day-dream of the delicious sweet. Yet each raisin you eat pro- vides a larger percentage of this mineral without which the body soon would droop and die than you can get from such standard foods as bread, butter, milk, potatoes and rice. No other fruit, fresh or dried, approaches the raisin in this valuable contribution to physical exist- ence. Of course, an "iron constitution" depends on more than the amount of iron in the diet. Yet it cannot be secured without a sufficiency of this min- eral. So, why have we neglected this admirable source of iron supply — and in a form so easily assim- ilated? It is largely a matter of custom and habit. We've inherited a dependence on meat, bread and potatoes. We have exercised this inheritance to such an extent that in many homes it is seldom varied to any great degree. A food like the raisin appeals to many persons only as an occasional side dish, a delicacy to be nib- bled, a sort of table dressing for festal occasions. If we were as wise as we ought to be, raisin bread would be served at every table every day ; cakes and 52 REASONS FOR RAISINS cookies would be filled with raisins and people would buy them as they now buy candy and gum. Indeed, if human beings used raisin bread as the staff of life and got the raisin habit in some such degree as they now use candy and gum, the result would be not only an increase of valuable food in- take but such a decrease in our national curse of constipation as to be little short of astonishing, for besides its value as mineral and fuel food the skin of the raisin provides bulk which serves as an effec- tive laxative. And the pale faces which keep folk busy taking tonics and treating their cheeks to a daily course in cosmetics would soon be replaced by ruddy com- plexions, indicative of that wealth of health which lies ever near at hand in right food. Have j^ou ever suffered from anemia? Ever felt as if all the pep had gone out of your body and all the purpose out of your mind — limp and as near lifeless as a breathing being can be? Has the doctor ever pricked a bubble of blood from the lobe of your ear, compared its color with varying shades of red on a little card, then said you needed iron? If so, have you faithfully taken some iron tonic and patiently awaited results which did not arrive according to expectations? If you had only been a regular eater of raisins, you might have avoided the doctor, the distress and the drain of dollars attendant upon your unpleasant little journey into that state of mental and physical depletion which accompanies impoverished blood. 53 REASONS FOR RAISINS Of course, it would have been more pleasant to eat raisins than to take medicine — to have used a natural tonic than a chemical one. And far more sensible and effective, for raisins in addition to their iron content, are notable providers of heat and energy. Do not, however, take this natural tonic in large dosage, all at once, and expect a miracle! For you might pay the penalty exacted of the writer's sten- ographer who, after having taken dictation on this article — and being a sufferer from anemia — imme- diately bought a pound of raisins and ate them at one sitting ! Of course, the concentrated food value and high sugar content brought on a bilious attack. Health doesn't come in chunks, but through sane, careful use of what we eat. And raisins are so highly nutritive that they cannot be eaten like pop- corn. The food value of a pound of them is more than twice that of a pound of lean round steak, and to get the same amount of available energy you would have to eat eight or nine pounds of peaches and four pounds of bananas. Bicycle riders engaged in long-distance races, which make it impossible to stop regularly for meals, carry raisins in their pock- ets and depend upon them for nourishment. So it is no mere figure of speech to refer to the raisin as meat and medicine. Nor is it a statement to be lightly regarded that in the iron she puts into the blood circulation of the human family through her raisins, California does more for mankind than 54 REASONS FOR RAISINS could be bought with all the gold she has put into coin circulation. It would be one of the best things that could hap- pen for this country if we would increase our raisin consumption fifty-fold and eat a pound a week in- stead of little more than a pound a year. As a people we partake more freely of denatured or partly de- natured foods than any other, and we discard the mineral-bearing parts in most cases. As a people we live more luxuriously than any other. And under the dangerous dominion of these two obstacles to sturdy physical development, we breed an excess of dyspepsia and anemia which costs us more in cash and comfort than any one of us would believe, could the figures be shown. Of course, we should make it a point to eat more freely and regularly of all foods which contain a comparative abundance of iron. The principal ones are egg yolk, lean beef, cereals, lettuce, cabbage, spinach, asparagus, celery, beans, peas, grapes and raisins. When we come to the last-named, we find that they contain a much larger iron content than milk — and milk is the "perfect food." We also have learned, from the experience of arctic explorers, that the rigors of the far northern winter can be faced with confidence so long as the iron supply in the body is maintained at normal, but as soon as anemia sets in, the game is up. That is why raisins always hold a high place in the food supplies taken on such expeditions — why 55 REASONS FOR RAISINS raisins were among the foods first at the North Pole ! They should be given a similar place in our daily diet — but many of us are blind to the importance of such matters. We think we can go along eating as we please, regardless of what Nature provides or suggests. We have an idea there's a doctor or a bottle to cure the consequences of such blindness. There are bottles and doctors in plenty. There are "tonics" without end which are alleged to have power to renew lost strength. There are cute little boxes of color which fool no one, however skilfully applied to the cheeks. And there are foods, plenty of them, which contain the perfect tonic and cosmetic mate- rial, iron — a dependable health and beauty doctor. But it must be taken in this way to be effective. Here it is that the raisin rises to proclaim its wil- lingness to help. It is not an over-statement to say the raisin points a way to safety in this all-important matter of health and physical efficiency. Yet we have steadily declined to follow this guidance, despite the fact that our own country produces the finest raisins that are grown and in the largest quantity. If we exercised in food matters the kind of com- mon sense that has put us at the head of the world- procession of progress in many other ways, there would be a bowl of raisins on every dining table three times a day. We would demand more raisins in our candies, and use more of them in our des- serts. We would not be content until we had made 56 REASONS FOR RAISINS the fullest possible use of this ideal form of food. For here is a natural tonic-upbuilder, a proved soui'ce of strength and vigor, which comes to us as a delicious food and requires no special preparation. Here is a cosmetic in the form of a confection. If we read of such a thing in a fairy-tale, we'd gasp and wish it might come true. It does come true — every time you eat more raisins ! 57 RECIPES FOR RAISINS Queens Pudding stir one quart of scalded milk into two cupfuls of stale bread crumbs and let stand until crumbs are soft. Add two-thirds of a cup- ful of sugar, one-third of a cupful of melted butter, yolks of three eggs, beaten, juice and grated rind of one lemon, one tablespoonful of chopped citron, one cupful of raisins and one-half teaspoonful of salt. Mix and pour into well greased baking dish. Bake in moderate oven until firm and brown — about forty minutes. Cool slightly and turn out on a serving dish. Spread with a layer of any desired jam or marma- lade. Beat the whites of three eggs until stiff, add four tablespoonfuls of sugar and continue beating for a few minutes. Spread the meringue over the pudding and bake in a slow oven until the meringue is brown. Raisin Bread When bread sponge is light add one cupful of seedless raisins, then three to four cupfuls of flour, enough to make a soft dough. Finish same as bread. To make the sponge: Mix together one tablespoonful of butter, one tablespoonful of sugar, one tablespoonful of salt, one yeast cake dissolved in one cupful of lukewarm water, and two and one- half cupfuls of flour. Beat until smooth and let rise until light. Scones Make sponge as above. When sponge is light add one beaten egg, one-third of a cupful of melted butter, two-thirds of a cupful of sugar, one-half cupful of shredded citron, one cupful of chopped raisins and three or four cupfuls of flour. Turn out on a board, knead lightly until smooth and shape into twelve round biscuits. Roll each biscuit to one-quarter of an inch in thickness, place on a well greased pan and cut across each way in quarters. Let rise until doubled in bulk, brush with beaten egg diluted with water; bake from fifteen to twenty minutes in moderate oven. Bran Raisin Muffins Mix and sift together one and one-half cupfuls of flour, one tea- spoonful of salt, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder and one-half tea- spoonful of baking soda. Add two tablespoonfuls of sugar and one and one-half cupfuls of bran. Mix one egg well beaten with one-half cupful of molasses and one and one-half cupfuls of milk and combine mixtures. Stir in two tablespoonfuls of melted fat and one cupful of raisins. Pour into well greased muffin pans and bake in a moderate oven about thirty minutes. Raisins and Peanut Balls Put one cupful of shelled peanuts and one cupful of seeded raisins through food chopper, using large blade. Moisten with molasses, sirup or honey, so that the mixture can be molded easily. Form into small balls, roll in finely chopped peanuts and set in the ice box for an hour. 58 REASONS FOR RAISINS Sultana Biscuits Mix and sift two cupfuls of flour, one-half teaspoonful of salt, four teaspoonfuls of baking powder and three tablespoonfuls of sugar. Rub in four tablespoonfuls of shortening and one cupful of sultana raisins. Beat one egg, add three-quarters of a cupful of milk and stir into the dry mixture to make a soft dough. Turn out on a floured board, roll to one-third of an inch in thickness, cut with a small cutter and place on a greased baking sheet. Bake in a hot oven for about fifteen minutes. Peach and Raisin Conserve Soak one pound of dried peaches in one quart of cold water over night. In the morning add two cupfuls of raisins, cut in pieces, one- half pound of walnut meats, juice of one lemon and one orange, one orange cut in thin slices and one pound of sugar. Heat to boiling point and let simmer about one hour or until thick. Stir constantly, as the mixture thickens, to prevent burning. Raisin Filling Mix one cupful of chopped raisins, one-half cupful of sugar, one- half cupful of water, two teaspoonfuls of flour and one teaspoonful of lemon juice and cook until thick. Cool before using. 59 000000000000(X)00C«XX3CXXXXD000000CXXX)0000000CICOCKXXXX)^^ The Mother of Civilization JL oo WHY MILK IS MAN'S MOST IMPORTANT FOOD OOD is the most important factor in life, though few beheve it. Otherwise fewer would die young, more would grow strong, and millions who wonder why they don't feel fit could banish such fruitless speculation and replace it with productive achievement, prosperity and happiness. Three-meals-a-day has become such a matter of habit that the average person thinks as little of diet as of breathing. A few who have studied the values of food and its varied effects on the body know that most of our physical problems — whether of defects or diseases — can be solved through what we eat. The many who never think beyond temporary sat- isfaction of appetite, pleasing the palate, and select- ing what is easiest to get and prepare, so ignore these facts that it's a wonder we live and work as long as we do. Think of life as a long road, lined on both sides with structures of varied sort and size and in differ- ing states of preservation. Think of these structures as representing the many kinds of food we eat. We start along this road, and whether we travel afoot or in state ; no matter how far we have to go or what our earth-errand, each of us must stop twice WHY MILK IS MOST IMPORTANT FOOD or thrice daily at one of these houses to keep going. Some of them are mere half -built shacks, some fairly comfortable shelters, while others stand out like well-ordered homes. These latter are the vital foods — palaces of the palate ; fine edifices of energy and efficiency; radiating centers for vim, vigor and vitality. Among them is one which towers above all others. It is so much more spacious and attractive than the rest that the traveler instantly wants to know about it. "I always had thought there were many foods of equal value," he says. "Surely that cannot be the case, else why this structure of overshadowing size and beauty." Cm-ious to know the nature of the food upon which this chief house is founded, the traveler pauses to read the name above the great door, and is aston- ished to find the one word "Milk/' "Why, I must have been here when I was a baby! I must have been here when I was sick or recovering from illness. I must have stopped here often, yet never before had I any idea of its size and magnifi- cence." This traveler is like millions of others who have taken and now are on the same road. Because he is an American and because nature has favored Amer- ica as a great dairy country, it never has occurred to him that milk is a rich and peculiar blessing. In- deed, he has regarded milk more as a beverage than an indispensable food. 61 THE MOTHER OF CIVILIZATION He has seen much milk wasted. Until only a few years ago, he lived under absurd laws which forbade the sale of skimmed milk. Any idea that milk is intimately related to man's moral and social advance has been as far from his thoughts as is the nearest fixed star from the outer crust of this whirling ball on which we live, eat and work. Had he started down the road of life which branches into China, he never would have come to this palace of milk. With stunted body and dor- mant mind, he would have eked out his little span as a drudge-member of a relatively useless huge group of humans. For milk, more than any other one food, has de- termined the destiny of modern peoples! If this seems a strange, bold statement, let me tell you some of the facts that science has discovered and proved about milk. First, remember we are as we eat ! A few know this, not because of their faith in the power of food, but because of definite facts proved by the microscope and by human experience. Fewer still believe it. The day of doubt as to food's place in man's progress still is at high noon. But the dawn of another day — one of defeat for all such doubts — is at hand. The great war proved food's decisive power in a way never before dreamed possible. The peace we now have entered probably will unveil to man a still mightier force in food. For hardly a moon wanes without the return of some new Columbus from the 62 WHY MILK IS MOST IMPORTANT FOOD shores of test and investigation, with news of some great discovery in nutrition. This palace of milk lifts its gleaming towers high above all other food-shelters on the road of life, first because milk is the one complete food. Henry C. Sherman, Professor of Food Chemis- try at Columbia, says that it is the one article of diet whose sole function in nature is to serve as food, and the one food for which there is no satisfactory substitute. Dr. McCollum, Director of the School of Hygiene and Public Health at Johns Hopkins, and many other eminent scientists have acclaimed it the one food which contains all elements necessary to the growth, development, repair and maintenance of the body. There are at least five food fundamentals man must have. These are fats, which give heat ; carbo- hydrates, which provide energy ; protein, which fur- nishes material for body-building and repair; min- eral salts, which supply the blood and tissue cells with certain elements vital to the working of the body machinery, and vitamines — substances little understood but without which the other four ele- ments do not suffice for normal sustenance. The white fluid which comes from the cow con- tains all of these necessary foods « in generous measure. Milk Richest in Fats There is no richer, finer fat in the world than the butter fat suspended in milk in infinitesimally small globules. No carbohydrate is more easily assimilated 63 THE MOTHER OF CIVILIZATION by the human stomach than the sugar in milk. Its albumin and casein rank at the head of the list of proteins. In necessary mineral salts it supplies cal- cium, sodium, iron, magnesium, potassium and others which the body needs in smaller measure. Such a combination of values in a single food — and in one which can be fed alike to the youngest child and the oldest man, which strengthens the weak and makes the strong stronger — is without parallel. In itself, this is enough to make milk first among foodstuffs. But as if nature were insistent upon proving what matchless benefits she could crowd into one gift, we find milk richer in vitamines than any other food. As I said before, we know little about vitamines. beyond this — that no matter how complete a diet may be in fats, carbohydrates, protein and mineral salts, deficiency of vitamines renders it incapable of producing growth in the child and youth or main- taining strength and body balance in maturity and old age. It has been proved beyond doubt that some of the most disastrous diseases — beriberi and pella- gra, for instance — are caused by lack of vitamines in the diet. So nature holds out milk to man and says, "Here is the one food you can safely feed your babies. Here is the best food you can give your growing children and your youths and maidens standing on the threshold of manhood and womanhood. Here is ideal nutriment for men and women who use their 64i WHY MILK IS MOST IMPORTANT FOOD hands and brains. Here is a perfect food for those dedining days of Hfe when the body machinery is worn and needs to be carefully dealt with. "The fat and carbohydrates in this food will not overtax your stomach. The protein is of a sort that fits in more amicably with body needs than any other. The casein is easily digested and assimilated and acts as a natural nerve tonic. And, just to give you full measure of worth in one material, its minerals and vitamines are so generously apportioned as to make it invaluable for these alone, regardless of its other provisions." Now, civilization is the sum total of man's ad- vance on the up road from the prehistoric jungle to the perfect city of peace and justice. The cornerstone of all such advance is a physical body, strong, free from defects or disease, and in every way capable of supporting a sane, clear mind. The Role of Food There are exceptional cases in which an infirm body may house a capable brain. It is the rule, how- ever, that mental worth exists in direct ratio to physical fitness. And we know, from our own ex- perience and the results of scientific investigation, that the relation between normal bodies and good morals is so close as to defy any suggestion of accident. We know how much crime is caused by body de- fects, because we have seen criminal tendencies cured by the relief of such defects. We know immor- ality often is the result of malnutrition, which leads 65 THE MOTHER OF CIVILIZATION to physical inefficiency and helps to pave the way to poverty. It is true that the overfed and the un- derfed are not able to use their brains to the best advantage. It is a startling fact that a large share of all mental and material distress is due to two physical disorders which are caused by wrong food and can be cured by right food — indigestion and constipation. Weave all these strands of fact into one cord and you have a strong rope of flawless reasoning upon which to hang the statement that food is the prime arbiter in mental and moral and spiritual — as well as physical — development. Measure the extent and worth of the varied food elements in milk, and you have indisputable evi- dence that this one food is the mainstay in all such advance, and therefore may be regarded as the mother of civilization. That unadorned, paper-capped bottle in the re- frigerator, or on the kitchen table — how like a fairy flask of unlimited powers and possibilities it appears when we think of what it means to health and human happiness ! And when we think of its economic significance, we find it a fairy-dream come true! For so rich is good milk in food value that at almost any price it provides cheaper nutriment than can be got in any other form. For instance, one quart of milk equals in food value three-fourths of a pound of beefsteak, three-fifths of a pound of ham, one pint of oysters, eight eggs, two pounds of chicken, four-fifths of a 66 WHY MILK IS MOST IMPORTANT FOOD pound of pork chops, or three pounds of fresh codfish. These figures evidence the foolishness of boycot- ting milk when prices happen to advance a cent or two. Even at the present time, when all food prices have soared to unprecedented heights, milk is the cheapest animal food we can buy. Yet, as W. H. Jordan, director of the New York Agricultural Ex- periment Station, has said: "For some reason the public is exceedingly sen- sitive to any increase in the price of milk, while it treats with comparative complacency an increase in the cost of meats, flour and other staple products. It is important, therefore, if we are to maintain the necessary supply of milk, that the public shall be educated to understand its relative value. A cele- brated authority, Dr. Graham Lusk, has recently stated that a family of five cannot afford to purchase meat until it has bought three quarts of milk." There are justifiable reasons for the advance in the cost of milk. In the first place, the law, reflect- ing the public demand, has set new and exacting sanitary standards for every step in its production and distribution, and these add largely to the first costs. In the second place, increasing concentration of population in cities has, of necessity, widened the area from which milk supply must be drawn and, as a natural consequence, increased the average cost of transportation. But, until its price mounts far above present fig- 67 THE MOTHER OF CIVILIZATION ures, no one should make this excuse for Hmited use of this perfect food. Not all of the wonder of milk as a food is to be found in the raw white fluid we Americans consume annually in one form or other to the extent of more than 8,000,000,000 gallons. To be sure, the raw material itself is wonderful enough — for think of a complete food which needs no preparation in order to play its high part in man's life! — but it is very perishable. In order to keep it fit for human con- sumption it must be guarded with a certain tem- perature and defended against germ foes which would make it a menace instead of a blessing. Condensed Milk Where such protection is not possible; where climatic or other conditions stand in the way, or where it is more convenient to have on hand a milk supply that can be tapped at any hour of the day or night in any kind of weather, this blessing is avail- able in the form of condensed or evaporated milk. Condensed milk is fresh cow's milk from which a large amount of water has been taken and a certain amount of sugar added. Evaporated milk is the fresh article with the water percentage greatly re- duced. Either of these can be used in place of fresh milk for nearly any purpose, and each offers one advan- tage to the consumer — absolute purity. The standard for these productions has been set as follows by a joint committee from the American 68 WHY MILK IS MOST IMPORTANT FOOD Association of Dairy, Food and Drug Officials, the Association of Official Agricultural Chemists, and the Federal Department of Agriculture : "Condensed milk, evaporated milk, concentrated milk, is the product resulting from the evaporation of a consider- able portion of the water from the whole, fresh, clean, lac- teal secretion obtained by the complete milking of one or more healthy cows, properly fed and kept, excluding that obtained within fifteen days before or ten days after calv- ing, and contains, all tolerances being allowed for, not less than twenty-five and five-tenths per cent (25.5%) of total solids and not less than seven and eight-tenths (7.8%) of milk fat." Fresh milk is bulky and its transportation is ex- pensive. Under normal conditions it remains fit for consumption not more than two or three days. This, of course, limits its food use. And but for condensed, evaporated and powdered milk, such difficulties could not be overcome. With these handy, pure and economical forms of milk available, this admirable food is placed within easy reach of everyone at every season. Another popular and highly nutritious form of this perfect food is malted milk. In the manufacture of this, nearly all of the water in cow's milk is elim- inated and the strength-giving parts of malted grain are added, increasing the natural nutritive value of the milk. Some idea of the relative food-worth of these dif- ferent forms of milk may be gained from the fact that the caloric value of an ounce of cow's milk is 21.38; of an ounce of condensed milk, 104.24; and 69 THE MOTHER OF CIVILIZATION of malted milk, 131. Raw milk contains 4% butter fat, 3%% carbohydrates and 8714% water. Con- densed milk contains 9%% butter fat, S% protein, 43% sugar (carbohydrates) and 25% water. Malted milk contains 9% butter fat, 12l/4% protein, 74% carbohydrates and only 1%% water. So aside from the highly important content of vitamines, the con- densed, evaporated and malted forms of milk have far more food value than the fluid in its natural form. Powdered Milk It is also possible to buy powdered milk, made from whole or skimmed milk and labeled according- ly, which contains the concentrated nutriment of milk, all water having been evaporated. This is largely used in the manufacture of candy, baker's confectionery, and ice cream. Thus it is seen that man's ingenuity, applied to nature's most nearly perfect food, makes it possible to use milk under any and all circumstances. And yet it is a fact that even in our own land there are hosts of men and women and children who do not begin to get as much milk as they or the nation need. For the nation, first of all, needs able-bodied citi- zens, and such citizens come only through properly nourished children. No matter how well nourished a child may be after birth, it cannot meet the maxi- mum requirements of physical development unless its mother was properly nourished prior to its birth. The federal government and all food scientists 70 WHY MILK IS MOST IMPORTANT FOOD and dietitians are agreed that every child should be given not less than one quart of milk a day. The gov- ernment and these experts know that the cornerstone of any progress worth while is right food. That is why they have joined forces to fight for a larger consumption of milk in some form in every home. And that is why it is the part of patriotism as well as of thrift and commonsense for every American to follow as a vital slogan these two words: "More milk." 71 RECIPES Malted Milk Oyster Toast This recipe requires: Two tablespoonfuls of butter or butter sub- stitute, three tablespoonfuls of flour, one cupful of hot water, two tablespoonfuls of malted milk, one dozen of oysters, salt and pepper to season, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and three slices of toast. Melt the butter, stir in the flour and mix thoroughly. Dissolve malted milk in the hot water and stir into the flour mixture. Cook until thickened and smooth. Add seasonings and oysters and cook slowly until the oysters are plump. Pour at once over slices of crisp toast and serve very hot. Evaporated Milk Loaf Cake Take one-half cupful of shortening, one cupful of sugar, two eggs, one-half cupful of evaporated milk mixed with one-quarter cupful of water, two cupfuls of flour, three teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one teaspoonful of flavoring and one-eighth teaspoonful of salt. Cream shortening, add sugar gradually and work to a soft cream. Stir in the beaten egg yolks. Mix and sift flour, baking powder and salt and add alternately with the milk to the first mixture. Fold in stiffly beaten egg whites and flavoring. Pour into a well greased bread tin and bake in a moderate oven about fifty minutes. Chocolate Blanc Mange Ingredients: Two-thirds cupful of condensed milk, two cupfuls of boiling water, five tablespoonfuls of cornstarch, two squares of choco- late, one-eighth teaspoonful of salt and one teaspoonful of vanilla. Mix together the milk and water and heat to the boiling point. Mix corn- starch with a little cold water to make a smooth paste. Stir into the hot milk and cook, stirring constantly until thick and smooth. Add chocolate and stir until chocolate is melted. Remove from fire, add salt and vanilla and pour into a cold, wet mold. Chill, turn out and serve with whipped cream or custard sauce. Lemon Custard Pie Use one and one-half cupfuls of evaporated milk, one and one-half cupfuls of water, five tablespoonfuls of cornstarch, three-quarters cup- ful of sugar, the juice and grated rind of one lemon, two egg yolks, two egg whites and four tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. Mix milk and water and scald. Mix cornstarch and sugar together. Add lemon juice and rind and beaten egg yolks. Stir in the scalded milk and cook, stirring constantly until the mixture is thick and smooth. Continue cooking over hot water for ten minutes. Remove from fire and cool slightly. Pour into a baked pie shell and cover with a meringue made of egg whites beaten until stiff with the powdered sugar. Bake in a slow oven until meringue is brown. 72 WHY MILK IS MOST IMPORTANT FOOD Powdered Milk Muffins Ingredients: Two cupfuls of flour, one-half teaspoonful of salt, four teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one tablespoonful of sugar, one egg, six tablespoonfuls of powdered milk, one and one-half cupfuls of cold water and two tablespoonfuls of melted shortening. Mix and sift dry ingredients. Mix powdered milk and water together and stir into the beaten egg. Combine mixtures, add melted shortening and pour into well greased muffin pans. Bake in a moderate oven about twenty- five minutes. Recipe will make twelve muffins of ordinary size. Malted Milk Tomato Bisque One can of tomato soup, one and one-half cupfuls of boiling water, and four tablesjjoonfuls of malted milk. Mix malted milk with the boiling water and stir until dissolved. Add tomato soup, heat to the boiling point and serve with croutons or bread sticks. Malted Milk Blanc Mange Two tablespoonfuls of malted milk, one and one-half tablespoonfuls of cornstarch, a few grains of salt, one tablespoonful of sugar, one and one-half cupfuls of boiling water, and one-quarter teaspoonful of vanilla. Mix cornstarch and malted milk with a little cold water to make a smooth paste. Add boiling water slowly. Cook over hot water fifteen minutes, stirring until the mixture thickens. Add vanilla and pour into wet molds. Chill and serve with boiled custard or whipped cream. Powdered Milk Cocoa One and one-half tablespoonfuls of cocoa, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, two cupfuls of boiling water, two cupfuls of cold water, one-half cupful of powdered milk and a few grains of salt. Mix cocoa and sugar together and stir into the boiling water. Boil five minutes. Mix milk powder with cold water. Add to cocoa and reheat to boiling point. Add salt and beat two minutes with an egg beater. Cocoanut Cream Cookies Take one-half cupful of shortening, two-thirds cupful of sugar, two eggs, one-third cupful of condensed milk, two tablespoonfuls of water, three cupfuls of flour, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one tea- spoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful cinnamon, one-half teaspoonful of lemon extract and one-half cupful of grated cocoanut. Cream fat, add sugar gradually. Then beat in the eggs, milk and water. Add cocoanut and flavoring. Sift flour with salt, baking powder and cinna- mon and add to the first mixture. If necessary add more flour to make a dough that can be easily handled. Roll out one-eighth inch thick. Shape with a small cutter, brush with milk or water and sprinkle with cocoanut. Bake in a moderate oven about ten minutes. 73 OOC)OOOOOOOOOCOCOOOOOOOOC>000000300C^ The Date^ the Fig and the Prune THREE ALLIES OF HEALTH AND ECONOMY E are just beginning to realize that in the date, the fig and the prune we have highly nutri- tive foods rather than confections. Bearing a ban- ner with the encouraging legend, "For Health and Economy," these three good foods are marching in- to the homes of this land at a rate which indicates ultimate conquest. This is a happy sign, for nature has stored up in this trio a wealth of material not only for palate pleasure and cookery delights, but for health, strength and that brand of physical well- being which differentiates properly nourished folk from such malnourished specimens of humanity as abound in every part of the country. Despite the fact that dates and figs have for cen- turies been used as a principal article of diet by many eastern peoples, the average American still is inclined to view them as sweet dainties to be eaten like candy. And while they serve this purpose ex- ceptionally well, and are far more healthful for chil- dren and grown-ups than sugar confections, they should be given a different and larger place in our daily diet. When it comes to prunes, we have already exhib- ALLIES OF HEALTH AND ECONOMY ited a larger measure of good sense, and within the past twenty-five years — notably during the latter half of that period — we have placed this delicious foodstuff in somewhat the position it should occupy. This proper course has been influenced chiefly by the fact that we ourselves now grow the best prunes in the world and instead of importing most of the primes we use, we now supply nearly every country in the world, having exported 114,000,000 pounds last year alone. When people generally come to a clear under- standing of the health and economy value of these three dried fruits, old notions will be banished by a measure of common sense conducive to our best in- terests. As matters now stand, it is doubtful wheth- er one in a hundred persons has anything like the right conception of their remarkable food value. No Water in Dried Fruits For instance, each is notably rich in carbohydrates — sugar content — which supply heat and energy for the running of the body. Each is notably deficient in water — a fact of large meaning when we count up the cost of living, for what you spend on food is mostly a matter of what you spend for water. The average cut of beef or mutton is more than half water, while that of pork runs slightly lower. The average egg contains 65 per cent water; the average loaf of bread 45 per cent, and the average raw potato 63 per cent. When it comes to fruits, this water portion takes 75 THE DATE, THE FIG AND THE PRUNE a tremendous leap, and the average purchase repre- sents payment for at least three-fourths water. It is this high liquid content that makes fresh fruits so welcome in summer time. Yet the amount we spend for water in our food purchases is not wholly wasted, especially in the case of fruits. For the liquid not only adds to palatability, and therefore assists in digestion — but also serves as a medium to carry into the blood certain mineral elements necessary to complete nutrition. Long ago, however, some practical-minded pre- historic ancestor conceived the idea of removing this surplus moisture from certain foodstuffs — notably fruits — by exposing them to sun and air and storing them in dry form until ready for use. In those far days all men were wanderers, from one part to an- other of the then inhabited portions of the globe, so it was simply a matter of commonsense to dry the water out of foods by exposing them to sun and air, and thus save weight in carrying them from one place to another. That was the beginning of de- hydration, and when the time came to eat such foods, it was easy enough to add water. The drying process had not robbed them of any inherent nutritive value. Fruits that are Meat for Man The human family at that time was centered in the tropic or semi-tropic regions of Asia, where the date palm and the fig tree have flourished since Adam first walked in the Garden of Eden, so it was natural that the date and fig should become the 76 ALLIES OF HEALTH AND ECONOMY pioneers in dried fruits. As population increased, and wandering tribes pushed into the region of the plum tree, such plunis that could not be eaten fresh were likewise dried. That was the origin of the prune. The nutritive value of these three foods does not rest alone on their high sugar or fuel content, but is also a matter of what might be called their medic- inal values. For besides supplying the body with an unusual ratio of nutritive material which, as science has proved, is easily handled by the stomach and well assimilated in the digestive processes, each of them possesses the qualities of a mild non-irritating natural laxative. Each, therefore, serves not onlj^ for the relief, but also the prevention of our national curse of constipation. Let tJie Children Have Them Some idea of the sustenance of this trinity may be gained from the fact that a pound of dried figs contains 1475 calories (energy units), a pound of dates 1615 calories, and a pound of prunes 1400 calories. A pound of fruit in dried form containing about the same total of food value that would be found in four or five pounds of the undried fruit. So it is not to be wondered that our ancestors made large use of dried figs and dates, and later on of dried plums. For here is an ideal way of securing not only heat and energy at low cost, but also of fortifying the daily diet with mineral elements which must be included in the menu in order to provide a properly balanced diet. 77 THE DATE, THE FIG AND THE PRUNE When, in addition to these favorable facts, we re- member that these dried fruits are so easily digesti- ble as to be available for all members of the family, regardless of age, for little folks or for old persons of weak digestion, it becomes evident that in them we have a veritable gold mine of goodness. Indeed, there is no better reason for anything than for in- creased use of figs, dates and prunes in our daily diet as staple winter foods. And while a certain number of people have always appreciated this, still large numbers do not. The fig is the fruit of a tree that flourishes in nearly all far eastern countries, also in Spain and Southern France. Of late years it has been largely cultivated on our own Pacific coast. It is most pro- lific, producing three crops each season, each tree yielding from one to two hundred pounds of fruit at a bearing. Among the ancient Syrians and Greeks it formed one of the principal articles of food, and there is little doubt that the physical perfection of the Greeks, which still is accepted as the highest possible standard, was due in no small measure to this fact. A Meal of Milk and Figs Some of the most popular figs are shipped from the seaport of Smyrna, and therefore are known as Smyrna figs. They are packed in three ways — in flat, tight-pressed layers and in the square-shaped "Locoum" packing, in which the fruit is merelj'^ pressed between the fingers to a somewhat cubical 78 ALLIES OF HEALTH AND ECONOMY form — sometimes called London style and in round or American packing known as pulled figs. The London style finds a ready market in New Eng- land, and it has the advantage that the absence of air passages is an additional safeguard against the deterioration of the fruit. Now that the supply of Locoum or natural shape dried figs has increased, we find them becoming more popular for cooking. Their high nutritive value entitles them to rank with the heartiest foods we eat — four ounces of figs contain as much food fuel value as three-fourths of a pound of lean beef round. A half pint of milk and six ounces of figs constitute an excellent meal. The date, which is the fruit of the date palm, and grows in enormous quantities in certain tropic lands, notably Arabia and Persia, is the least used in this country of this trio of nutritious dried fruits, date meal forming the bread the Arab carries as his sole food on long journeys. The date palm begins to bear at from six to eight years and continues to produce for many genera- tions, sometimes for 400 years. A single tree will bear as many as 3000 pounds of dates in a season, and it flourishes under conditions which are fatal to all other forms of vegetation; indeed, the finest dates we get come from the so-called "sunken gar- dens" of the Sahara Desert. Formerly the packing of dates was so carelessly done as to bring them to this country in a condi- tion far from tempting, but recognition of their re- markable food value has led to a constantly increas- 79 THE DATE, THE FIG AND THE PRUNE ing effort to provide them for the pubHc properly cleaned and packed in sanitary packages. The Date Rivals Sirloin The date's caloric content is one and two-thirds that of sirloin steak. It contains 70 per cent of car- bohydrates and 10 per cent of nitrogenous ele- ments, and is one of the most easily digested of fruits. Little wonder that the Arab can live upon them under the hardest conditions. In selecting dates choose those which are large and soft, but not too sticky. The most desirable va- riety for food use is of a reddish brown color, not too much wrinkled, and with a whitish membrane between the flesh and the stone. When it comes to prunes — and every well-regu- lated family should come to prunes in some form at least once a day — it is one of the most encouraging of present-day food facts that last year California had to furnish nearly a quarter of a billion pounds of these dried plums to supply the demand and more than half of this vast quantity was consumed in the United States. Europe ate a large proportion of the other half, for during the war the American prune played an important part in the food supply of the warring countries. How Prunes Came to America The marvelous upgrowth of this industry has come from a single tree planted in California in 1870 by a Frenchman named Peller. At that time the prunes grown and cured in France were the 80 ALLIES TO HEALTH AND ECONOMY best in the world, but it was soon found that the soil and climate of California were especially adapted to these varieties of plums, and today the California production alone amounts to more than that of all the rest of the world. The trees are planted 100 to an acre, and a single tree often yields as much as 800 pounds of fruit in one season. The fruit is allowed to remain on the tree until it falls from complete ripeness, and is then dried in the sun. The fruit is allowed to drop from the tree in order to secure the fullest ripeness and consequently the greatest possible sugar content. California prunes, in addition to their fine flavor, are rendered especially desirable because sterilizing machines are used which clean the fruit at high tem- perature and destroy all bacterial life. After being cured, the prunes are graded into ten chief sizes, ranking from 20 to 30 to the pound to 90 to 100. In buying the prunes it is economical to pay the slightly higher price for the larger sizes, since in the very small sizes the bulk of the weight is taken up by the inedible pit. Prunes which run 40 to 50 to the pound provide about the largest percentage of edible material, when gauged by the price ordinarily asked. Within the past decade, notably within the past five years, primes have made great forward strides as a popular food. When Uncle Sam set his seal of approval on them as one of the most valuable foods that could be served to our fighting men — and when his pre-emption of so large a part of the crop sent 81 THE DATE, THE FIG AND THE PRUNE the prices skyward — a good many people who pre- viously had passed them by paused to prove their right to such preferment. One trial is sufficient, as a rule, for when properly cooked, stewed prunes constitute one of the most delicious of dishes. This is the Way to Stetv Them The best way to stew primes is to cover them with plenty of water and let them stand on the back of the range or over the simmering flame of the gas stove and undergo a long, slow cooking, without previous soaking in cold water and without addition of sugar during the cooking. They should not be allowed to come to a boil at any time, and should not be taken off imtil they are plumped firm and the skins soft. When removed from the stove a little sugar may be added, although in many cases it will be found that no extra sweet- ening is needed. They should stand at least twenty- four hours before serving. This brings out their full flavor and makes them wonderfully tender and delicious. All things considered, the prune is one of the most nutritious articles of diet we have, for they contain large amoimts of protein and easily digestible sugar. There are many ways of serving these three dried fruits. Within the past few years cooking experts have paid special attention to them so that it is easy to include one of them in the menu at least once a day throughout the year without tiring those who 82 ALLIES TO HEALTH AND ECONOMY sit at the table. They are as well adapted to sub- stantial dishes as to desserts, and the fact that sub- stantial dishes can be made of the latter is a large point in their favor. A Triumphant Food Trinity They can be eaten in some form or other by every member of the family — even babies find them a wel- come addition to their simple diet when cooked soft and the pulp crushed — and prunes are often in- cluded in special diets for invalids, the juice being frequently employed as a vehicle for purgative medicines. Because of their concentrated form they are easily kept, though they should not be pur- chased in too large quantities in warm weather. They constitute a really triumphant trinity in any consideration of food, whether weighed in the bal- ance of nutritive worth or economic value. They supply health, strength and goodness in a single package, so to speak, and during the winter months they take the place of fresh fruits whose peculiar nutritive elements are so needed by the body, but which are so often beyond the reach of the average pocketbook. In every home where good food is enjoyed, yet where eating is regarded as something more than a mere pleasing of the palate, the date, the fig and the prune deserve to be used with much the same regularity as now attends the potato and the meat dish. Their food value places them far ahead of the former and gives them good right to march in front 83 THE DATE, THE FIG AND THE PRUNE of the latter in the great procession of edible prod- ucts. Until we have learned to make larger use of them we shall be neglecting a rare opportimity to pleasantly and economically build up the best of all possessions — a sound body fit to house a sane mind. With the beginning of the New Year why not put among your resolutions "Eat more fruit," "Keep well through food," "Give more thought to diet." Any one of these slogans would bring your atten- tion to these excellent dried fruits which provide larger nutrition at less cost than the fresh varieties, and especially is this true when supplies run low in the winter time. 84 DRIED FRUIT DELICACIES Prune and Nut Salad Wash one-half pound of large prunes and cover with cold water. Simmer very slowly until tender. Drain and chill. Cut the prunes in pieces lengthwise and mix with one-fourth pound of pecan or walnut meats cut in lengthwise pieces. Mix one-third cupful of oil with three tablespoon fills of lemon juice, one-half teaspoonful of salt and one- fourth teaspoonful of paprika. Toss the nuts and prunes in the dress- ing and serve in nests of crisp lettuce as a relish with cold roast meat, duck or goose. Stuffed Prune Salad Wash one-half pound of large prunes, cover with cold water and simmer for fifteen minutes. Drain, place in a colander and steam until tender. Cool, cut a slit in each and remove pit. Set aside to chill. Mash one cream cheese with one-half teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth tea- spoonful of paprika and enough mayonnaise to moisten. Fill the cavi- ties in the prunes with the cheese mixture and serve on lettuce with French dressing. Grated American or Edam cheese may be used instead of the cream cheese if desired. Fruit Bread Sift together one cupful of flour, one and one-fourth cupfuls of graham flour, one tablespoonful of sugar, four teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one teaspoonful of salt. Rub in five tablespoonfuls of shorten- ing. Beat two eggs until light, add one cupful of milk and one-fourth cupful of molasses. Stir into the dry mixture and add three-fourths cupful of figs chopped fine, one-fourth cupful of dates, cut in small pieces and six prunes, chopped fine. Pour into a well greased bread pan and let stand thirty minutes. Bake in a moderate oven about forty minutes. Let stand twenty-four hours before slicing. One-fourth cupful of chopped nuts may be added if desired. Prune Cornbread Wash one-half pound of prunes, cover with cold water and simmer for fifteen minutes. Drain and steam until tender, then remove pits and cut prunes in small pieces. Mix and sift one cupful of cornmeal, one cupful of flour, three-fourths teaspoonful of baking soda, one and one-half teaspoonfuls of baking powder and one teaspoonful of salt. Add one tablespoonful of sugar. Mix together one well-beaten egg and one and one-fourth cupfuls of sour milk. Stir into the dry mixture, add three tablespoonfuls of melted shortening and the prunes. Pour into a well greased shallow pan and bake in a hot oven about twenty minutes. Cornmeal Muffins With Dates Cook together in a double boiler for five minutes one cupful of corn- meal, two tablespoonfuls of brown sugar, one teaspoonful of salt, two 85 THE DATE, THE FIG AND THE PRUNE tablespoonfuls of shortening and one and one-fourth cupfuls of milk. C!ool the mixture until lukewarm, add one egg, well beaten, and one cupful of flour sifted with four teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Beat until smooth, stir in one cupful of dates, cut in small pieces, and pour into well greased muffin pans. Bake in a moderate oven about thirty minutes. Prune Stuffing Mix two cupfuls of stale bread crumbs with two-thirds cupful of melted shortening, one teaspoonful of salt, one-eighth teaspoonful of pepper and one-half teaspoonful of sage. Add one apple, peeled and chopped fine and one cupful of stewed, drained prunes cut in small pieces. Moisten with prune juice and use to stuff turkey, duck or goose. Date and Orange Salad Soak two tablespoonfuls of gelatine in one-fourth cupful of cold water. Dissolve over hot water and stir into two and one-half cupfuls of grape juice. Add one-half cupful of sugar and stir until the sugar dissolves. Cool until beginning to stiffen. In the meantime remove the pits from two cupfuls of dates and stuff the centers with nut meats. Peel two oranges and separate into sections. Arrange half the orange sections and half the dates in a cold, wet mold. Fill the mold with the gelatine mixture and chill. Turn out on small lettuce leaves and garnish with the rest of the orange and dates. Serve with cream mayonnaise. Parisian Sandwich Filling Soak one cupful of prunes over night, drain, remove pits. Put through a meat chopper with one cupful of dates and one cupful of figs. Add enough orange juice to make a paste that can be easily spread. Spread on slices of graham, whole wheat or white bread. This filling will keep a long while in a covered jar and may be used as a cake filling if desired. Fruited Cereal Stir one cupful of farina or two cupfuls of oatmeal into one quart of rapidly boiling salted water. Cook for five minutes, stirring con- stantly, then put in a double boiler and cook for forty to sixty minutes. Fifteen minutes before serving stir in one cupful of finely chopped dates or figs. Imperial Tapioca stir one-half cupful of minute tapioca into two and one-half cupfuls of boiling water. Add one teaspoonful of salt and one inch of stick cinnamon and cook until clear, stirring constantly at first. Remove from the stove, take out the cinnamon and add one glass of currant jelly, one-half cupful of chopped figs, one-half cupful of chopped dates and one-fourth cupful of chopped nuts. Sweeten to taste and serve hot or cold with cream or custard sauce. 86 ALLIES OF HEALTH AND ECONOMY Jellied Prune Whip Wash one-half pound of prunes, cover with cold water and simmer slowly until tender. Add one-half cupful of sugar and simmer five minutes longer. Drain, saving juice, remove stones and cut the prunes in very small pieces. Soak two tablespoonfuls of gelatine in one-fourth cupful of cold water for five minutes and stir into the hot prune juice. Add juice of one large lemon and cool until beginning to stiffen, then whip until light and foamy. Fold in the prunes and the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs. Pour into a mold or serving dish and serve very cold. Garnish with whipped cream. 87 v,.«* y^^: \^,^^ :mU:^ \,-i^ .*^\ \./ ••• V9' ^oV V o ^ y ^'V"' ^- ^^ "^ *v^ ^ v^\.jL^'.*c. -"■ 0^ ... -^^ -v -^ ".''^^-.- '^- ^ -.^<^^,- ,}.'^'^'^\. °o^^.' y-V, //^;^^''°o y..^v>. c°\c^^"°o 'o, ,* A