KLIMINAKY KIPOKT )Cf lOBiiTlOHS e m W k R E PA RT M fc N • v ■^ •* / ■v PRELIMIIARY REPORT CONCERNING EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS PHINCirALLV IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA PRO.SECUTKD IN ACCORDAXCE WITH PARAGRAPH 2, SPECIAL ORDERS No. 109, WAR DEPARTMENT, MARCH 18, 1871, AND LETTER OF INSTRUCTIONS OF MARCH 23, 1871 I-UOM 'A I f-f' BRIGA'DIER GENERAL A. A. HUMPHREYS, CHIEF OF ENGINEERS. COXDUCTED UXDEI! THE IMMEDIATE DIRECTION 1st Lieut. GEORGE M. WHEELER, Corps of Eugineers. 1 8 71. WASHINGTON: GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE 18 7 2. Li '- I\ THK Senate ok thk I'mtki) Stati;.'^, J/O.V 2, \ini. Besolccfl, That uiiibUuudivd nml fifty adilitioiial copios of the ■'Kecouuaissauce of Aiizoua ami Nevada" he printed lu quarto form and bound; four hundred and tifty copies of whiili shall be for the use of tlie Senate, and five hundred for distribution liy tlie Chief of Engineers, United States Aruiy. Attest : GEO. C. GOKHAM, Secretary. Ix TiiK Senate ok the United States, * Mmj 28, 1S7-2. The followiiig resolution, passed by the Senate May "2, 1S7'2, was concurred in by the House of Kepresent.atives, May 27, 1872. Ecxolred, By the Senate, (the House of Rspreseutatives coucurrinj;,) that four thousand additional copies of the "Reconnaissance of Arizona and Nevada" be printed in quarto form and bound: one thousand copies of which shall be for the use of the Senate, two thousand seven hundred aud fifty copies for the use of the Honse of Representatives, and two hundred and fifty copies for distribution by the Chief of Engineers, United States Army. Attest : (iEO. C. GOKHAM, Secretary. t r? , )f y. 7 TABLE OF CONTENTS. Page. Letter of Secretarj' of AVar 5 Chief of Enginoeis 7 Lieutenarit Wheeler 9 lutroduction 11 Letter of instructions 11 Co-operatiou of the Supply Departments of the Army. 12 Medical Department of the Army- 1'2 ; CHAPTER I, Officers of the expedition 12-l;{ Escort 13 United States Naval Observatory 13 Western Uniou Telegraph Company 13 United States Lake Survey 13 lustriimcnts 13 Organization of expedition 15 From Rendezvous No. 1, Halleck Station, Nevada, to Rendezvous No. 2, near Belmont, Nevada l."> From Rendezvous No. 2, Belmont, to Rendez\ous Xo. ."?, at Camp Independence, California 15 From Rendezvous No. 3, Camp Inrps of L'ligiiircrs, ^] uihuiijluu, D. C. Ill iiccordaiice with teleyiapliic orders froni tlte War Dcpartmoiit, dated JMareli 11, aud as iiieii- tioued ill letter of iii.stractious from the Chief of Engineers of Mareh 2.'!, 1871, Lieuteuaut D. W. Lockwood, Corps of Engineers, was to have assisted in the performance of the duties of the exploration; but, owing to some iiiisapprchensioii on the part of the coiiimauding ofldcer of the EXI'LOIMTION IN NEVADA AND AIUZONA. 13 doptirliucul ill which LiciitoiiauL Loclvwood was serviug, ho was not able U> cuLcr upuii his hibors until early iu August. This siuglu matter, because of the iucideut vexatious delays occasioued by the multiple uatuie of the duties thrust upou my shoulders, was the reasou for the loss of nearly oue moiilh in time before the parties could lie said to have fairly organized for systematic work. This caused serious iucouveuieuce through the entire season, and it often seemed almost certain that, in couseiiuencc, the entire field of the labor projected could not be finished prior to the setting iu of the winter. Second Lieutenant D. A. Lyle, Second United States Artillery, who liad been serving with his company in Alaska, w as, at my request, ordered to join the expedition, but was unable to reach any of the rendezvous camps until that oue ostablislied at Belmont, Nevada, a little prior to July 1, when he was at once placed in charge of main party No. li and the escort. lie performed this latter duty until the close of the season's operations, and in many ways allied himself with the professional undertakings of the exploration. The Meilical Department was to furnish one surgeon and two hospital stewards. These persons came from the Military Division of the Pacitic, and were as follows: Acting Assistant Surgeon A. H. Cochrane ; Hospital Stewards Frank Ilecox and T. Y. J'.rown, the latter joining the command at Halleck Statiou, Nevada. Subsequently, Acting Assistant Surgeon Walter J. Hoffman reported at Carlin, Nevada, having been ai)pointcd by the honorable Secretary of War at the instance of Professor S. F. LJaird, of the Smithsonian Institution, and upon the recommendation of the Surgeon General. He was at once placed iu charge of the departments of mineralogy and natural history. Dr. Cochrane performed the duties of ''surgeon to the expedition," while the two hospital stewards accomplished excellent services as meteorological observers. The areas intended to be examined were entirely, with the exception of certain small sections, in Southwestern Utah, within the limits of the Military Division of the Pacitic, aud the furnishing of the escort was effected lluough the commanding general, whose kindness in this as well as in all matters relating to the supplies and furthering the objects of the expedition was constantly evinced. The permanent escort .that continued with the expedition until its termination came from Troop I, Third United States Cavalry, and consisted of two sergeants, four corporals, and twenty six privates, then serving in the Department of California, Brigadier General E. O. C. Ord commanding, to w honi, for his generous aid aud counsel at this time, as well as at all others, I feel especially grateful. Other temporary escorts were obtained from several of the posts in Arizona, and Lieutenant C'olonel George Crook, commanding this deiiartment at the timci of our entering its limits, was very kind in authorizing the facilities asked for in our informal requisitions. No lieutenant of cavalry was available to be placed in charge of the escort, as the troops of the Third Cavalry at Camp Halleck were about changing for a southern station. This resulted in no serious inconvenience, as (his escort, except for the very few days spent at rende/vcius camps, were always divided into two, and ofteu into as many as four parts. In the matter of the deter- mination of the main astronomical stations, especially fruitful assistance was furnished on the part of the ollicers iu charge of the United States Naval Observatory, the United States Lake Survey, aud by the otiicers and certain operators of the Western Union Telegraph Company. I would particularly express my sense of obligation to Admiral Sands, of the United States Naval Observatory, whose active co operation secured to me the services of Professor J. 11. Eastman at the observatory in Washington ; to (Jeneral C. B. Comstock, of the L^nited States Lake Survey, who allowed Civiliau Assistant O. B. Wheeler to perform similar service at the observatory at Detroit ; to Mr. Ortou, president, Messrs. Stager, Tinker, and Ladd, respectively, uianagers at Chicago, Washington, and San Francisco, of the \\'estcrn Union Telegraph Company, as well as \. 14 EXPLOIJATIOX IN J^EVADA AND AltlZONA. to Brighain Yoiiug, incsideut of the 3Iormou Chuicb, Salt Lake City, Utab, who, through the intervention of Hon. William H. Hooper, tendered the use of the Mormon telegraph from that point to Saint (k'orge, Utah. It requires but a hasty examination to coneludc that the elements placed at my disposal were \aried and complete, none too many, however, for tlie wants df an expedition to operate in so severe a section of country for such a length of time. For the full cooperation of the supply departments of the Army too many thanks cannot lie rendered. It would have been impossible, with the means placed at my disposal by the Engineer Deiiartment, to have conducted an exi>editiou of such magnitude over so great a range of country within the limited time of one season, except for this verj' solid and generous assistance. It shall be among my endeavors to show that this has not been illy merited, and ask that reference be made to some of the succeeding pages for a hasty summary of most of the results that have been so far accomplished. It is with the greatest difticulty that these can l>e made to seem not meager, since memory has to furnish so much material in the writing of this report, at a time when the majority of the notes are en route, or rather blockaded, upon the Union Tacittc Kailroad. To the many otiicers in com- mand of military posts along our route, as well as quartermasters aud commissaries, to very many ■gentlemen, superintendents of mines and residents of the mining districts, to various State, terri- torial, and county officials, to members of the i)ublic press, contiguous to areas of the exiiloration, and to various private citizens and others who have extended cordial aid and sympathy to the work allotted to my care, 1 desire to express my tiianks, as well as those of se\eral of the membeis of the exiieditiou. EXPLOEATIO:^^ m NEVADA AND AJilZONA. 15 CHAPTER I. The first principal rendezvous at Halleck Station, Nevada, on the Central Pacific Railroad, was establislied on tlie 3d of ]May, and the forces of the expedition were assembled entire within a few days, consisting, in addition to those already mentioned, as follows: Belonging to the engineer assistants and employes there were four topographers, one assistant surveyor, one assistant astronomical observer and computer, one chief geologist, one meteorologist, two collectors in natural history, one photographer, and guides, packers, laborers, &c., numbering thirty in all, wliicli number was increased to thirty-one on the 1st of July by the addition of an assistant astronomical observer and assistant geologist; as quartermaster's employes, including chief packers, cargadores, guides, &c., fifteen. The transportation was as follows : One flfty-mule pack-train, one forty-mule pack-train, one instrument wagon, and two instrument-carts, two odometer vehicles, and riding- animals for officers, civilian assistants, and employes, as well as the escort. While waiting at Halleck Station, all the available time of the assistants was spent in Journeys and examinations among the adjacent mountains within a radius from twelve to fourteen miles. RENDEZVOUS CAMP NO. 1, AT HALLECK STATION, NEVADA, TO RENDEZVOUS CAMP NO. 2, NEAR BELMONT, NEVADA. The entire expedition moved to Carlin, Nevada, at which point the first nnxin astronomical station was to be established. A side party was here organized for work to the north and west- ward, and principally outside the zone traversed by the parties of the fortieth parallel survey. This party was to converge upon the remainder of main party No. 2, at Battle Mountain, Nevada, which had been sent there to establish a temporary camp at the commencement of that line. Main party No. 1 cut loose from the railroad about June 1, and passed to the southward, through Mineral Hill, Eureka, and Morey districts, to Belmont, about seven miles from which place tiie second rendezvous camp was established. Two side topographical parties detoured from this line, coming in upon the main line succes- si\-ely at Eureka and Morey, visiting many mining districts and gaining valuable topographical and allied information. Main party No. 2, in charge of Acting Assistant Surgeon A. H. Cochrane, moving to the south, passed through Battle Mountain district, reaching Austin, as the first important point of any size. Side parties carried hasty examinations along the Toyabe Range and on either side of the Monitor Range. The complete rendezvous near Belmont was accomplished on June 24. The field of operations thus far was entirely confined to Nevada. RENDEZVOUS CAMP NO. 2, NEAR BELMONT, NEVADA, TO RENDEZVOUS CAMP NO. 3, AT CAMP INDEPENDENCE, CALIFORNIA. The interval of time here included is a little more than thirty days. The examinations were over areas in both Nevada and California. Main party No. 2, in charge of Lieutenant Lyle, operated to tlie south and west, impinging with one side party constantly employed upon the very desert and little-known area to the south and southwest from Belmont, which is a portion of that large tract in Southwestern Nevada hitherto unexplored. I beg leave to append the report presented by this officer, marked Appendix B. Main party No. 1, with two side parties constantly engaged, moved to the south and east, reaching Pahranagat Valley for supplies prior to the direct It) EXPLOEATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. uiaicli tbeijce in ueail.v a due line toward Camp Indepeudeuee, o\ei- dub of the ujost desolatt- regions upon the face of the earth, and amid the scenes of disaster of those early emigrant trains who are accredited with having perished in " Death Valley." This entire section is known in common parlance among the settlers of the mining and mountain towns of Nevada as "Death Valley."' while the "Death Valley proper" should be limited to that remarkable depression which, at its lowest surface, falls beneath the level of the ocean, and which lies principally in California. It was thought at first that it would be impracticable to make this march with the entire train, aiul that it would be necessary to surround this desert section in traveling along lines partially known, and entering it at certain points with parties numbering not more than five or six. It was almost impossible to gain any accurate information of even the chances for grass and water from either white man or Indian, the erratic wanderings of the latter having .scarcely reached a day's march from their own wick-e-ups. A party was dispatched to the southward, toward the Colorado, to establish a supply camp somewhere along Spring Mountain Eaiige, npon which to converge, after the parties should have again crossed tlie "Death Valley," in their outward journey from Camp Indepeudcn(j^. This arrangement proved most fortuitous. On the 23d of July, the rest of the main party were all together at Naquinta Springs, north and west from Tim-pah-rite Peak, with the desert stretching out along our western horizon. The objective point was a place since called Oasis Valley, known at the time to be sensibly to our westward, and containing good grass and water. This locality was reached after three days of the most severe marching, and was found to be a narrow valley, surrounded by low rolling mesas, from which broke, in many places, a largg number of springs of good, clear water, but of varying thermal conditions. "We remained here until joined by a messenger from Lieutenant Lyle's party, who reported still more terrible difficul- ties before us. This messenger came in accompanied by an Indian, and reported that he had left Lieutenant Lyle with a relief party on the eastern slope of the Inyo Range, and that he, in com. pany with a guide by the name of Ilahn, had gone forward to seek a camp to the eastward, and had been left far from this place by the guide, who apparently was confused from not knowing the country; this guide has never since been heard from. Lieutenant Lyle and party succeeded in reaching a little mining camp near Gold Mountain after great hardship. A subsequent guide sent by this officer explained that it would be impos.sible to send the main party immediately westward toward Camp Indepeudeuce; consequently, after reaching Grape-vine Springs, which, at the western slope of the foot-hills of a range of this name, faces upon the northwestern arm of the main Death Valley, the train moved to the north and westward, to Deep Spring ^'alley, reaching there a road, while a party of picked men took up their route nearly due west to i-each Camp Independence, no matter what the intervening obstacles, and succeeded in this after suffering what, up to that time, had been some of the most bitter experience that had ever fallen under my ob.servation. At this rendezvous, as in fact at all others, the time used for the recuperation of animals and arranging for supplies was economically employed by the professional force in local investigation and the preliminary redaction of notes. At this point the expedition was joined by Lieutenant Lockwood. RENDEZVOUS NO. 3, CAMP INDEPENDENCE, CALIFORNIA, TO NO. 4. AT COTTON- WOOD SPRINGS, NEVADA. Lieutenant Lockwood, having been placed in charge of main party No. 2, was ordered to pro- ceed well to the south, and tlicn, turning to the eastward, to encircle several of the supposed interior and limited local basins, which, although lying in the natural profile which trends toward the Colo- rado, still are separate and inclosed. His party skirted the Sierras for a considerable distance below EXPLOEATIOX IX XEVADA AND ARIZONA. 17 Owen's Lake, ami thence to the eastward and across the lower part of Death Valley. The general features of this trip, as well as those operations intrusted to his charge at subsequent times during the season, will appear in his preliffiinary report, herewith submitted and marked Appendix A. Besides a, special party in charge of supplies, who sensibly followed the general direction of main line No. 2 toward the next rendezvous, another party followed an individual and separate line. Main party No. 1, in executive charge of Lieutenant Lyle, broke out of Owen's River Valley to the eastward at the head of Owen's Lake, and came to the mountains on the western side of Death Valley, where they were joined by a side party that had followed a line via the mines at Cerro Gordo, having struck this range of mountains higher up. The main camp was joined by myself after a very severe march, when it was fourul that a small party had gone to the northward to effect a connection be- tween the two lines. A portion of this party returned, all, in fact, except Mr, Egan, the guide, who has never yet been heard from authentically; his fate, so far, is uncertain ; that of any one to have followed him in the particular direction he was taking when last seen would have been certain death. More details of this matter occur in the report of Lieutenant Lyle. The force was massed for the passage of Death Valley, and the camp in advance at Furnace Creek selected. TJie entrance to the valley was through a narrow, gorge-like canon, presenting among its tortuous walls a variety of contour and color. The descent was very rapid, and the bed of the valley below, limited in horizon through the narrow opening by the far mountains to the eastward, met our eyes in ^trange and gloomy vibrations through the superheated atmosphere. The canon has been named after the valley, and photographic illustrations here made will gi\e a far more tangible description than words can convey. Finally, one of the bugbears of the trii), that of crossing Death Valley, is over; this particular crossing was near the area of greatest depression, and Dr. Hofiman, with an assistant, was sent to the southward to take barometrical observations ; he did not rca
  • . A\'intcr was coming on, and being at least three weeks late in reaching this locality. EXPLOEATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 19 it was deteruiiued to diminisli sliglitlj- the size of the expedition— which liad at all times been too large— at this point; carrying- out this plan, the fearful sequel determined tliat three who had left us were among those unfortunates in the late Wickenburgh stage massacre, another one of the atrocities committed, so far as circumstantial evidence can determine, at the liands of the Indians fed and fostered by our Government upon reservations. RENDEZVOUS CAMP NO. C TO RENDEZVOUS NO. 7, AT CAMP APACHE, ARIZONA TERRITORY. The force, fairly organized, started out well in hand. Party No. 1 moving to the eastward across the Verde River at the caves, about thirty miles north of Camp Verde, thence in a nearly due straight line reaching the high mesa, and finally the northern end of San Francisco Mountains, about which detailed examinations were made, thence turning to the south and east. Camp Apache was an objective point, and the divide of the waters between the basin of the Little Colorado and those of the Verde and Salt Rivers was sensibly the line followed. We were troubled with some snow, and now and then unpleasant winds, all of which was agreeably modified after breaking from the mesa down into the Tonto Basin. The distance proved to be greater than was anticipated, and men and animals reached Apache much jaded. Main party No. 2 had arrived at this same point a day or two previous, having crossed our line, reaching the Little Colorado, thence via head of the White Mountains. Only a short time was spent here, as, already so long in the field, nearly every one was threadbare and ready for rest. A photograph of the White Mountain Apaches on ration day was secured. RENDEZVOUS NO. 7, TO FINAL RENDEZVOUS CAMP NO. 8, AT CAMP LOWELL, TUCSON, ARIZONA TERRITORY. The march between these points was conducted simply in two main lines, one via San Carh^s River and Camp Grant, the second via Pinal Mountains and Florence, on the Gila River. Tucson was reached on the evening of the 'Ah of December, and preparations for disbaudiiig already begun were hastened to a conclusion, and on the 11th everything had been disposed of and those of the parties who were to go either to San Francisco or Washington had departed. Seventy- one remaining mules, the property of the tpiartermaster's department, were turned over to the depot quartermaster, and forty-seven others, engineer property, were sold, with a view of being used as transportation in the coming campaign, and it is hoped that these, as also the several experienced packers, who remained, may be doing good service in the fight against the Apaches in the war, supposed already to have been commenced by General Crook, commanding the department. Thus, in the windings in and out of the main and various detached parties a reconnaissance line of G,.327 miles has been traversed, or nearly twice the shortest distance from Washington to San Francisco. A little more than 83,000 square miles of territory has been examined, lying in the following-named political divisions: Nevada, 32,000; California, 19,000; Utah, 1,200; Arizona, .31,000. It is safe to say that five-eighths of this is new ground. The expense has been a little less than $1 per square mile; per square acre not to exceed sixteen ouehundredths cents. The result has exceeded my most sanguine expectations, so much so that present experience would compelme to ask for two seasons to cover a similar-sized area, and it is hoped will contribute data worthy a place among the records of the Department in regard to this portion of our territory. The line has crossed the route of two railroads already projected, the Atlantic and Pacific, and Texas Pacific, along areas that will have to be traversed by the Utah Southern, and affords the requisite information for those routes north and south which are so mucli needed in the develop- 20 EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. ment of the mining interest, and wliLcli will be eventually reqnired to bold together tlie diverse interests of sections separated by large distances latitudiually. It may be said tliat mucli of this ground lias been visited before, but, altliougU tlie first party of recorded explorers, wLo visited sections familiar among the annals of this trip as early as 1540, moi'e than three centuries ago, and have been succeeded by various jjarties subsequently up to the present time, still the operations of this season have but joined on to, elaborated upon, and to a certain extent completed their work, mapping sensibly only those portions hitherto known as unexplored instrumentally upon the able map of the "Western States and Territories compiled in the Engineer Department by General G. K. Warren, at that time lieutenant in the Corps of Topo- graphical Engineers. EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 21 C IT A P T E R II. I shall eudeavor in this cliapter to give tlie general re.sults upon the subject.s mentioned in tbe letter of instruction.s from the Chief of Engineers; and, with thi.s in view, shall divide them into heads, as follows : 1st, astronoiuical; 2d, topographical ; 3d, phy.sicogeographical ; 4th, ineteorolo- gieal ; 5th, geological ; Gth, department of natural history, &:c ASTRONOMICAL. The great want in the mapping of the western portion of our territory has been the accurate establishment of a.strouomical po.sitions. The plan adopted this season has been to secure, at the most proper and available intervals of the perimeter of the area surveyed, the mam astronomical stations. During this sea.sou these have been to a certain extent accessory to, and governed by, the movements of the parties of the expedition. The locations are as follows: Carlin and Battle Mountain, Nevada, on Central Pacific Railroad, Austin, Nevada; Camp Independence, California; Saint George, Utah; and Pre.scott,- Arizona Territory. Including tho.se determined in 1869, there have been established for main stations, under my supervision, eleven points, in the interior of our western territory. In nine of these cases, the longitude has been determined by telegraiih. All have been solidly marked with stone monuments, and are available for future reference. The principal ob.server, 'Mr. E. P. Austin, presents a hasty report, submitted herewith, and marked Appendix C, giving a general notion of the character of the work, and the prospective value of the results. Another of the observers, Mr. Marvine, who also at times has had his attention directed to matters of geology, could, if present during the time of an-anging the material for a preliminary report, bear more particular testimony regarding the results at vSaint George, Utah, and at Pre.scott, Arizona Territorj-. His observation.s, however, when reduced by the com- liutei', will be presented in proper form in the final report. In order to comprehend fully the character of the value of this astronomical work, the full report will give, in addition to the reductions of our own observers, those of Messrs. Eastman and Wheeler, respectively, of the United States Naval Obsei'vatory, at Washington, and that of the United States Lake Survey, at Detroit. At tjie intei'mediate astronomical stations, the obseivations have been taken with sextants giving a check more [tarticularly upon the latitudes. The majority of the stations were confined to the two main lines of the survey, and the character of the work varies in no remarkable particular from that ordinarily perfonut-d in the Pacific Railroad surveys. Data from these observations will be properly grouped in tables for future reference. TOPOGRAPHICAL. The plan pur.sued has been to attach one topographer to each of the main and side parties, who was assisted by one observer taking odometer readings, and another person (o read the barometer for relative and absolute altitude of the station. In the frame-work of the map are the main astronomical points, the intermediate astronomical points coming in at the ends of the daily marches, while between each two of these latter the topographer takes as many stations as may be needed to satisfy him iu regard to the details. The base line is then the meandered line, measured by the odometer, checked by astronomical positions and angular bearings from prominent mountain peaks. 22 EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. Tlie portable transits employed, Laving a telescope of considerable focal power, give cpiite accurate readings for tlie bearings, and a sldllful topograplier, after a little practice, varies but sliglitly in bis latitudes and departures from those given by the asta'ouomical positions. The aneroid readings give data for a general profile of the routes and the heights of the stations, and after these observations are reduced by comparing with the cistern barometer, give a series of results of .surprising relative accuracy. In the vicinity of the rendezvous camps more time was available, and more minute surveys carried out. The contours of the areas, covered by mineral development in two mining districts, were taken. The method of moving in two lines, flanked at least by one side party adjacent to each, has worked very successfully, and in a great measure accounts for the very extensive results obtained topogTaphically. The difficulty of keeping these parties supplied, and in a state of active co- operation, calls for very constant, strenuous exertions, however, on the part of the officer in charge. As a certain allotment of funds and material had been made for one .season's work to cover a certain area, it became necessary, in order to consummate the results expected, to work with much celerity and little or no intermi.ssion, and the force at my disposal were constantly pi'essed with labors that gave them little if any rest, and no recreation from the commencement to the end of the season. It is with no little satisfaction that I can bear testimony to the willingness of the civilian assistants aiul employi'-s, with scarce an exception, to make any and all exertions, or undergo such pi-ivatious as were required of them. In gaining topographical information, special attention was given to the determination of the lierimeter line of the watersheds of the exterior ami interior basins; to the relative portions of mountain and valley; to the size and extent of the arable, mineral, and desert sections ; of the distribution of s]n'ings, streams, timber, &c., all of which are to appear in the liiial map or maps. The areas inhabited by llie Tiidian tribes are also to be marked out, and the varieties of observations afford material for the construction of a number of maps. The possil)le location for routes by rail, or common roads, along lines sensiiily north and south, have been carefully studied, and to this end the expedition has followed out and made use of the system employed in the earlier surveys for a railroad route from the Mississippi to the Pacific Ocean ; more accuracy having been obtained because of the sn|)erior character of the astronomical stations, and the improvement in field instruments now used. The large field traversed while upon various trips since 18G8, np \o that of the present season, has rendered me conversant with a considerable section of country over wliicli. in the final to])o- grai)hical map, a more systematic nomenclatiu-e can be adopted. Among those portions jn-osecnted more in detail, and presenting novel and interesting results is the .survey of the Colorado, partly hydrographic in its nature, and which adds unique information to the topographical knowledge of our continent. The general tendency of projecting too much has been felt in this undertaking,- and must always follow as tlie experience of any one who estinmtes for a scheme of exj)loration, no matter how little or how greatly elaborate among those sections of our western teiritory still unmajnied, where the physical obstacles arc so varied and difficult. PIIVSICO GEOr.RAPIIU'AL. The operations of the past season have lieen conducted in a great mcasiu'c in and around the Great American Desert. Go where you will in your journey westward, from the Rocky :\[ountains to the Pacific Ocean, EXrLOKATIOX IX XEYADA AXJJ xVEIZONA. 23 YOU ujiisl crosfiits bune'iiaml luiiaviUng [)laiii.s, valleys, or inoiiiitaiiis. Its coufigiiiatiou is varied, as are many of its local characteristics ; in width raugiug IVoin seveuty-five to two huudred aiul iifty iivilcs, but nowhere narrowing' so that an east and west line can be prolonged entirely through arable sections. Tiic elevations ot this great area vary, from the depressiou iu Death "S'alley, below the level of the sea, to mountain valleys, from six to seven thousand feet in altitude, surrounded by rugged and often desolate ranges, whose summits tower to heights of eleven and twelve thousand feet. The general trend of these mountain chains from the fortie.th to the thirty-tifth parallel is sensibly north and south, with spurs and ridges that bear for the general part to the northwest and southeast, the eastern slopes of the main ridges being by far the most gentle. Passing into Arizona, the continuity of the characteristic trend of the Cordillera system is somewhat broken iu that area occupying so large a portion of Northeastern Arizona, that will be named upon the maps as the Colorado Plateau. Upon the summit of this grand plateau one encounters the rolling and broken mesa formation through which ha\e obtruded at many points Aolcanic mountain peaks, that lift their black sides far iu the horizon. Through the middle of the Territory the ranges, formed of the more primiti^■e rocks, steer on in their course, and are met, as it were, by other ranges that, converging in direction, follow onward in their deliberate ad\ ance, nmssiug in the Sierra Madres of Mexico. The present map subsnitted will give st»ine\vhal of a geni'ral view of these more luominent features. Physical geography details, always having more direct reference to the vertical lines of a sur- vey, have been sought after, and th.e wants of the case attended to so far as possible. The posi- tive and relative altitudes of a multitude of points have been secured. Profiles along many lines of the basins, both exterior and interior, can Ije produced ; the con- figurations of the mountains, \alleys, rivers, creeks, and springs, in their general relation, have been noted. The character and suppo.sed extent of the great Colorado Plateau, the peculiar features of which have, for tke first time, lieen delineated, were partially studied and need but one more expedition to complete. Examinations while asceu AillZUXA. 27 aud the experience which my present travels has afforded ])ledges opinion in favor of the line lately snrveyed in the vicinity of the thirty fifth parallel. INDIANS. The experience of this season has <;iven consideriible farther opportunity for studying the Indian character, their habits of life, geographical distribution, iS:c. This experieuce has in no way produced a sympathy with that class of well-intentioned bnt illy-informed citizens who chiiui that the Indians are a much-abused race. My several trips of the past four years ba\ e allowed fidl opportunity for immediate observation on this subject ; therefore, in a subsequent report, I propose to present my views at greater length. The areas inhabited by, and known as the country of, the Sho.shones, Pah-Utes, Chemehuevis, Utes, Mohaves, Seviches, Hualapais, Apache-Mohaxes, Cosuiuas, Apache, (Tontos, Pinals, Coyoteros and Arivapas,) &e., ha\e been pretty accurately determined, and will lie mapped out. It was with no little surprise that, upon examining the best sources of information, viz, that obtained through Army officers, it was found that the actual number of the Apache warriors, who could take the field, wonld not exceed fifteen hundred. Major John (ireen, of the First United States Cavalry, who has had considerable experience among them, positively asserted that they could not muster twelve hundred men from all the tribes, including the White JEountain Indians, many of whom have been upon reservations since IStiS. All the tribes, without exception, belong to that wild, roving breed known as "Mountain Indians." Their lawless and migratory life has carried them beyond the notion of anything like order, even among their own people. It may not be uninteresting, at this particular period, when there are so many diver.se opinions, or rather theories, extant regarding the position or supposed condition of the hostile Indians in the Southwest, to acquaint the War Department, through the medium of this report, with the influence that the Indians, as we found them, have had as a help or as a biuderance to the objects of this exploration, so that at subsequent periods, when other parties shall have in hand the duties of sur- veying out remote, inaccessible, and inhospitable regions, they may have the benefit of the expe- rience. The general plan of moving in two lines, and receiving the co-operation of small side [larties, cannot but work admirably in any scheme of geographical exploration. Let us see how uiuch friendly Indians can be of service. We will premise that it is incompatible to divide up into four or five parties in a hostile country without calling on the military posts for greater escorts than could be reasonably expected from them ; therefore, as in the present case, it was found necessary to move in two parties only, while engaged in those parts of Arizona known as the habitation of the hostile Apache. This fact explains the principal hinderauce. It is almost impossible to obtain white guides who have any accurate knowledge of regions sensibly new, while hardly any nook or corner can be fmind not well known to the Indian ; hence in the selection of suitable camping-places, and as assistants to a natural guide, or to a white man who shall exercise judgment as to the movements of the command, their services can be made very valuable. The entire expedition, composed of officers, soldiers, and civilians averaged from eighty to one hundred and ten, being divided into parties varying from five to fifty. The little parties are really the ones that accomplish the most actual work. In Nevada, to each one of these little parties an Indian could be attached, and oftentimes two, who, in view of a small remuneration and plenty of food, served both as guide and laborer, thereby causing a positive 28 EXPLOEATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. beuelit, aiul, in all cases, ivlieviiig that apprebeusiou of danger wliieb all parties in a new country must experience, and which, to many, is more uncomfortable than danger itself. From among the Pah-Utes, in the Spring Mountain Ilange, often as many as seven or eight guides and messengers were employed at one time. These Indians have been considered friendly for some years, but frc(ineutly prospectors, in parties of two, going out into the mountains, never return. They have, however, a wonderful regard for a superior force. The semi-hostile Indians, as the Seviches, south of the Colorado, find the renegade Hualapais, found bordering the country of the Apache-Mohaves, can be made useful to a certain extent by a party of respectable size. No squad less than five in number should at present trust themselves among them. From the friendly Indians the ranchmen and miners get more or less assistance in and around their farms, working in the mines and as messengers; in this way they greatly facilitate the early development in this section. Now, how is all this changed, when one comes into the hostile Apache country! A party with a proper guard may travel for weeks and never see an Indian, except here and there, outside of range, and then generally more wild than a deer. In conducting examinations, a single member even of the professional corps must be provided with a guard before it is safe for him to pass the brow of a hill in front of camp. By dint of great perseverance, a s emi-friendly Indian maybe impressed into the service of guiding a party into a hostile country, but there is no certainty that he will be true to his trust. This hasty .sketch gives some notion of the disadvantages of conducting an exploration over a country occupied by hostile Indians; the subject needs only to be suggested to call attention to the fact that eveiy essential detail is, of a necessity, greatly contracted. The well-beaten Apache trails from Arizona to Sonora attest the fact of the lines long followed in raids upon the Mexican ranches and stock. The legend exists among the Apaches that they were once a concentrated and powerful race, far surpassing in strength the Navajoes, with whom they had frequent encounters. Their horses, cattle, and sheep were plenty ; their crops large ; their chiefs came from a line of hereditary princes. Finally, dissensions arising, the cupidity of certain upstart chieftains caused troublous times, the dividing into separate bands, and a general war among themselves resulting. The cud came in complete desolation and poverty. This continued nearly up to the time of the acquisition of the territory by the United States, when, against a common enemy, the white nmn, they banded together for defense. The secret of their great terror to the whites is their lawless and roving life, giving celerity to their movements, with great powers of endurance. The common experience in settling questions with such tribes, and the only one that has proven successful, is to thoroughly whip them, after which they never make any determined resistance. The Indians of Arizona have never been made to feel that they had any master beyond their own will for a wild and Bohemian life. No continuous concentration of force has been directed to their rancherias and villages, there to meet and teach them that they must give up their habits of violence and murder, or submit to the inevitable ftite of destruction. Let the Indian policy of this Government be what it may, the Indian question in Arizona will never be settled until the campaigns of an energetic oflicer shall thoroughly whip and subdue them. Let this be done, and they are then as amenable as the Shoshonos of Nevada or the Hua- lapais of Northwestern Arizona. The tribes encountered during the present season will be denominated, respectively, as friendly, semi-friendly, and hostile. In the first we must place the Sboshones, Pah-Utes, Chemehuevis, Utes, EXPLOEATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 2f) Mohavcs, ami possibly the Hualapais, as they are now nearly all on a reservation, and no longer consider it policy to bold out against the whites. In the second, Seviches, Apache-Mohaves, Cos- niuas, and Apache-Coyoteros. Among those uudonbtedly hostile are the Apaches, known as Ton- tos, Finals, and Arivapas. Other Apache tribes, as the Mescaleros, Bouitos, and those governed by Cachise, were outside the limits embraced in the present exploration. In this connection it seems almost impossible not to revert to that source of disaster to three members of the expedition, who were victims iu the Wickenburgh stage massacre, for which I most thoroughly believe the Indians are responsible. Considerable trouble was taken iu investigating this case through the agency of parties sent to the locality, and the weight of evidence couvicts the Indians, and possibly those, too, who were drawing their food and supplies from the Govern ment. From a careful study of the case, I am led to believe that the Indians in the vicinity of the Date Creek reservation, as iu fact those in various other localities iu Arizona, gathered courage from the fact that a peace commissioner had lately been in their midst, and hence thought with the greater impunity to commit this deed of violence with v^hich their innate character had so much natural sympathy. Here were three men who had mastered all the toils and hardships of a severe campaign, who started homeward pleased with the thought of dangers escaped and duties well performed, who, after passing what was supposed to be unsafe ground, fell victims to au Indian ambuscade. One of these, a young mau just entering upon his career, with years of promise be- fore him, one drop of whose blood the whole Apache race could not expiate, parted with his life; and forgetting all else, in the records of humanity, this life, as well as that of the others, should be charged to the Indians. Wherever opportunity afforded, conciliatory talks were held with the Indians, and the result was advantageous in the case of the Tah-Utes and Mohavcs. The former tribe, assisted by the Chemehuevis, who are au allied race, had been at war for five years with the Mohavcs; the cause of this difflculty was sought out, advice given, aud during the river trip the captain of the Mo- haves, who accompanied us, had a meeting with one of the Tah-Ute captaius, through whom an amicable adjustment was arrauged. The ruins of the famous Aztec tribes, a name so rliythmical iu legend, were met iu many local- ities. Their status can be referred to as little better thau— if iudeed quite as good as— those Pueblo Indians, among whom we now have evidences remaining iu the Zuuis and Moquis besides other local tribes on the Eio Grande, however great their numbers might have been. They were doubtless driven from their accustomed habitations by the Apaches coming from the southward, aud forced to seek for shelter those caves occupied by them as fortifications, finally becoming extinct, as must every race in the presence aiul in the line of progress of that race superior both in num bers and intelligence. SITES EOPv MILITARY POSTS. These refer to positions for occupation aud for operations. The selection for tlie sites of temporary or permanent military posts generally originates with the general commanding either the division or department, and their basis is determined by his peculiar ideas of the necessity therefor. Scouting parties ordiiuirily discover a sufacient number of places, in advance of the pushing for- ward of troops into a new, hostile Indian country, and their reports go ou record at the headquarters; therefore the results on this subject will be shown simply in marking upon the final map those points that can be conveniently occupied for military posts or scouting camps. 30 EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND AKlZONx^. INFLUENCE OF CLIMATE. The climatology of the Pacific coast, altbougli a subject of great iuiportaiice and interest, yet, for the want of systematic data, remains in a very vague condition. So far as the climatic oscillations now in progress are concerned, the general observations of so Lasty an exploration can bear no great testimony. Beyond the geological examinations tliat notice the translation of alluvial material by direct atmospheric influences, our investigations were confined more directly to the quite complete series of meteorological observations. At the present time these are not in shape to be analyzed. The principal portion of our time was .spent in the great basin of the Colorado, and among some of the outlying or rather interior basins to the northwest. At present, thi'oughout this area, arable sections are .scarce, and but few of these have been entered by the settlers. Little by little, however, the desert edges will be reclaimed by irrigation, and reference has only to be made to that narrow strij) of mountain valleys in the western portion of Utah, now inhabited by the Mormons, to .show what the Land of industry and neces.sity may do in reclaiming arid lands and bringing them under cultivation. I cannot but believe that many of the monntaiu valleys in Ne- vada and Arizona will at no distant date become peopled, as are now uiany of those from Salt Lake to the southward. It is generally admitted that large auKKuits of the acpieous vapors from the oceans rise to the higher currents of the ai'mosphere and are there carried, by rapid rates of motion, through long, and wide intervals. The great atmospheric gulf stream of the middle and southwestern Pacific Ocean impinges with its humid strata along the entire Pacific coast. A portion in the higher currents, from local surroundings, reaches its maximum of condensation while passing over the coast range, while the remainder progresses onward until it is caught by the Sierras, where it de- l>osits in the form of rain or snow. The upper portion of the great interior basin beyond lies exterior to this influence. The broad Tulare Valley of California in between the Sierras and the coast, if it could rise up and catch this moisture, would become the .scene of a luxurious vegetation, whereas now tJn- changes from the Acry wet to the very dry season, annually, are strongly marked. Let us suppo.se, however, that from the irrigating power that'can be .secured from the streams that rise in the Sieiras, and have their primal source from the.se same humid currents of the upper air, 5,000,000 of acres could be brought under culti\ation, with fields of corn and wheat, groves of fruit and forest trees, and varieties of vegetation, will it not be reasonable to conclude that, during this interval, the local surrounding climate will undergo slow changes, so that the atmosphere charged with humidity from this immen.se evaporation will bring about its own deposits of rain, thereby cau.siug a temporary vacuum, as it were, into which would fall portions of the moisture, at that time in passage in the higher regions ? Such a theory is not yet supported by known and pro- nounced facts ; it may not be uninteresting to consider it iu advance as among those changes to climate that the industries of man are producing. This same surcharged upper stratum that strikes the coast farther to the southward, follows the bed of the Colorado for a long distance, and the effects from it branch farther out as the api)roach is made to the higher ranges of mountains, situ- ated iu the northeastern portion of that basin. In this direction, the Sierras having lost their specific character, and breaking over toward the coast range, do not impose a barrier, and none is met until the Wahsatch and Uintah Mountains are reached, in whose higher altitudes it is understood that the humidity, that has had its origin at the .surface of the sea, is felt, and can be noticed by the more delicate meteorological instru- ments. EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND AEIZONA. 31 Extreme rauges of temperature have been eucountered along the route, raugiug from 8° F. as the maximum cold, to lOQo F. at midnight, for tlie greatest beat. Difference of Cet and dry bulb readings, give a range from 5o F. to ioo F. Tlie equability of temperature and regularity of the winds and rains of most of the valleys south of 38° latitude and until Southern Arizona is reached, comliinc to render the climate a very healthy and agreeable one. AGRICULTURAL AND GRAZING LANDS. As before stated, the arable lauds of Nevada are very small in relative amount; contrasting Nevada with xVrizona, the latter has the advantage in relative proportions, as will be shown by the statistical map to be constructed. Nevada cannot claim to be an agricultural section, but most of the local wants for the mining inhabitants could be supplied from home production. In Arizona, in and around Prescott, along the valley of the upper Gila, Salt and Verde Rivers, south of Tucson, along the Santa Cruz River and Sonoita Creek, there is an area capable of sustaining quite an agricultural populatiou; some of the finest soil that I have ever seen has lately been broken up along the Gila, and around the settlement called Florence. In the matter of natural lacilities for grazing hirge herds of stock, Arizona ranks Nevada ; in the number of mining districts Nevada leads far in the advance. As far as the probable amount of bullion from the two, at a time twenty years from now, is concerned, it is hard to say. It is be- lieved that after the Indian difliculty is settled, and railroads are brought into Arizona, that districts already examined will be worked profitably, and stimulus given to further and more care- ful prospecting. AVhen the Indians have become peaceable, the valleys and rolling foothills will afford the most excellent pasturage for very large herds of stock, with their covering of bunch and gramma grasses. At the present time, stock not herded by a respectable force is not safe in any portion of Arizona, except at certain localities along the Lower Gila and Colorado, and in the Hun- lapais country, or northwestern part of the Territory. It is safe, also, to say that the time is close at hand when these areas will become great graziug- grounds, for, in the onward march of population, (he stock-ranches skirting the tributaries to the west of the Mississippi and, Missouri Rivers must give way to the settler who wishes to till the soil, and the value per acre gradually gets beyond where it becomes profitable to use it for stock-raising purposes. Thus, year by year, droves of horses, cattle, and sheep are being driven more and more toward the far West ; valleys in Nevada that in 18G9 were uninhabited were heard to have been filled up subsequently with stock during the interval, and within two years every available stock-range iu the State will have been appropriated. Very little- game is found in and around the more desert portions of Nevada and Arizona ; in iact it may be .said that there is a zone of comparatively no game, whether large or small, limited on the west by the Sierras, on the east by the Wahsatch Mountains, north by 40°, and south by .35° 30' north latitude. In Northeastern and Eastern Arizona many herds of deer and antelope were seen ; bear, of the brown or cinnamon and grizzly varieties, and wild turkey. A certain strip, commencing on the eastern part and continuing south into Arizona, is also frequented by many species of game. Coal, of economic value, lay but at one portion of our route, so far as had been. discovered, and that was at the northwestern end of the White Mountains. Many carboniferous strata ap- pear, but the coal-beds are wanting. In and around Death Valley, among the carious of the Colorado, and at very many mining dis- tricts, granite and various volcanic rocks, offering a good variety of building material, were noted. 32 EXPLORATION IX NEVADA AXD AEIZOXA. MIXES. This subject, which above all others merits the most attention of any one of the practical and immediately remiinerative interests belonging to the field of this exploration, had not a promi- nent place in the letter of instructions. However, my experience on the western slope at other times thau during the present seasou has thrown me much among the mines and miners, and I believe it is to be the one subject which, if studied practically, cau be more benefited by honest industry in examiuatiou and intelligence in description thau any other that refers either to the commercial or industrial pursuits of the racific coast. At the present time I am labormg under two great difficulties. First, many of the valuable detailed notes collected during the past four years, and appearing as memoranda in certain books that wei'e inadvertently taken on the Colorado, were lost at the bottom of that river; and second, very many other later and duplicated notes are now en route; therefore memory has measurably to satisfy the claims that attach to this im- portant subject. The total lunuber of mining districts within the area covered by the exploration was ninety- two, of which eighty-six were visited by some member or members of the expedition; of these fifty-seven are in Xevada, eighteen in California, seventeen in Arizona. In connection with those entered in 18C0, my immediate attention has been called to more than one hundred districts, mostly of the silver-bearing ores. The location and size of all these appear on the map, and from it a great deal of valuable information regarding the practicability of reaching these districts, with a view to any mining oiieration, can be obtained. Personal examinations were made in the mining districts by Lieutenants Lockwood and Lyle, ])r. Hoffman, and Civilian Assistant Gilbert, all of whom pi'esent memorandum reports. In some cases a topographical party alone visited the district. In order to facilitate the amount of informa- tion to be gained from the necessarily hasty examinations of many districts, lists of questions, forty-five in number, a copy of which is attached to show the character of the information that was obtained, were prepared, so as to be filled ont while in the district. It will be attempted to duplicate as much as possible of the information to be gained hereafter, from tlie recorders or residents of the district, to replace that lost in the Colorado. LIST OF QUESTIONS. 1. Date of discovery of this district. 2. Has the district been woikcd at intervals, or continuously, since that time ? 3. Name of recorder. 4. Name of postmaster. ."). Name of Wells, Fargo & Co.'s agent. (!. Distance from railroad coramuuication, and nearest practicable route. 7. Description in detail of the geographical boundaries of the district. 8. Position of mining ledges in regard to the m.ain range of mountains in vicinity, /. f., whether in a canon or along foot-hills; and, if the latter, on which slope. Give general trend of monntains in vicinity, as well as that of marked spurs, ridges, and foot-hills. 9. General direction of lodes, (lci)osits, and stratilications. Ul. In case there are any real or siipposititious fissure- veins, or others of a permanent character, name tlic wall-rock, direction of the slopes, and planes of the hanging and foot-walls of the vein at ditierent levels, aud items of evidence of the existence of a permanent or regnliir vein. Amount and location of timber, wood, and water ; this latter description in detail. 11. Geological age of the rocks in the vicinity of the mineral devcdopiiiciits and (licir inin(ralni;ical characteristics. Till' nature and <|uantity of fossils, if any are found in the country rock. EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 33 1'2. Nature of ores in viciuity, ;. c. whether they are worked by free or wet, roastiug or smelting process, ami average yield per ton. 13. Gross annual production of bullion from tho mines, as well as that for each month of the year since the beginning, giving also the number of tons worked, as near as may be. 14. Average cost per ton for mining the ore. 15. Average cost per ton for milling the ore. 10. Average cost per ton for roasting the ore. 17. Average cost of mining labor, per diem. 18. Average cost of milling labor, per diem. 19. Cost of grain and hay ; facilities for raising farm produce, stock, &c. •20. Number of mills and description of each, with the cost of, and amouut of ore that each can work; this should give the weight of stamps and number of drops i^er minute, size of engine, number of boilers, number of pans and settlers, amalgamation process, and cold or hot straining of amalgam. '21. The principal mines now worked, with the description of each in detail. 22. Amount expended in the miueral development of any of the principal veins, and probable amount of bullion extracted from the same. 23. Number of inhabitants of the district. 24. Number of freight or stage lines. 25. Price of freight and passage from railroad. 2S. Number of churches, school-houses, banking-houses, stores, &,c. 27. Cost at the present time of a 10-stamp mill, with or without a Stedefeldt or other roasting furnace, also of an ordinary smelting furnace, in this district ; this should itemize first cost of machinery, transportation to mill site, and construction acconut. 28. Average amouut of ore that can be sloped by pue man in one day. 29. Average amouut of ore that can be extracted by oue man in one day. 30. Whether tunnels should be run in vein matter or in the country rock. 31. Average cost per foot for running a tunnel on main veins. 32. Average cost pev foot for sinking a shaft ou main veius. 33. Average cost per foot for running a drift on a main vein. 34. As nearly as may be, the exact area in the district covered by the miueral croppings and developments, giving area in acres, shape of area, and trend of longer axis. 35. State as near as may be the veal or supposititions water-level in the veius, and if the water-level has been reached, state whether there has been a change in the nature of the ore. 36. Is there any economical building-stone in the locality ? 37. Are there any indications of coal in the neighborhood, or have any been reported? 38. How many head of stock in the viciuity, and are more coming iu ? 39. What kinds of game are found ? 40. Nature of roads. 41. Names of Indian tribes, number of Indians, men, women, and children. 42. Do assays show the presence of gold in any of the silver-bearing ores in the district .' 43. Procure copy of the mining laws of the district. 44. Chauces for a decrease in the expense of any of the items incurred in mining industry. 45. Any proposition relative to a change iu the mining laws, that shall give more rcrtainty to the final acquiremeut of title and prevent chauces of "jumping" and litigation. Ill view of the preseut coudition of the data in this matter, it seems proper to confiue this report to circumstances concerning the locality of the various districts, the general character of the ores, the nature of the inclosing and country rock, the prospect of permaueucy in the veins, &c., and close the subject with a few suggestions niul recommendations. 'Sh: Gilbert alone presents geological notes. DISTRICTS INi NEVADA. These will be mentioned sensibly in their order from nortli to south. Many of these districts are not new, having their place in reports already made and published, but, coming within the 34 EXPLOEATION IN if EVA DA AND AEIZONA. liues ot the I'outes traversed, were always entered wbeu opportuuity occurred, witli a view to record any change in the condition of the mining industry at the date of our visit. The reports to wliich the above reference is made are fhose of the United States Commissioner of ^Mining Statistics, Vol. Ill of the Fortieth Parallel Geological Survey, and those of the State mineralogist of Nevada. BULL KUN DISTRICT, NEVADA. White Eock City, the principal location in this district, and the only one that is uow active, is eiglity-nine miles north from C'arlin, on the Central Pacific Railroad. The connecting wagon-road, which is of fair r|naliry, follows Maggie's Creek and Independence Valley. The Bull Run Range has a north and south trend, and forms the eastern limit of the broad valley of the Owyhee. At the point in qirestion it consists chiefly of (1) a bluish-gray, bastard limestone, somewhat altered, checked by frequent veins of calcite running at all angles; (2) gray, impure quartzite, passing on the one hand into argillaceous schist, and on the other into impure sandstone, resting against (3) a gray, homogeneous, syenitic granite. The granite is seen along the western foot of the range, and in ascending to the divide one crosses the edges of the stratified beds, which rest against it, and dip at 30^ to 60= to the east. A system of fissure veins substantially conforming to the dip and trend of the strata, traverses all the metamorphio beds, and even the granite, but is metalliferous only in the former. The metal mined is silver, and its principal associate is lead. So far as wrought, the veins have afi:brded chiefly oxidized ores, but some sulphides have been found, though the water-line has not yet been reached. There are no mills, and the ore is packed on mules to Cope district for reduction. The principal mines in operation are the Central Pacific, Porter, and Town Treasure. The number of men employed is small, and the entire population does not exceed fifteen ; the mines are comprised in an area two miles north and south by one mile east and west. There are no stage or freight lines. The best available buildiug material is timber, with which White Eock Canon is well supplied. Water for mill use is at hand, and at the canon of Bull Run Creek, a few miles farther south, is an available mill-site, with water-power.* A hurried personal visit was made to this locality, not so much, however, to examine the mines as to cross the divide of the waters of the Humboldt and Columbia Basins, and gain a look along the valley of the Owyhee, which observation alone paid for a long ride of nearly two hundred miles. The heavy snow on the mountains had not disappeared, and evidently the miners were waiting for the opening of the spring in order to commence vigorous woik. Samples of ore, both chloride and sulphide, looked very x)romisiug, so far as this alone could show. The majority of the ores require roasting, and hence that heavy weight of expense per ton must act here, as it has so often in other regions, as an incubus to speedy developments. Th6se mines had been opened but little at this date; however, it has since been understood that arrangements have been comi)lotcd to bring in niachinciy, and, if the ore developments have kept pace, good test evidence will already have been furnished of what may be expected of this mining camp. Poor placers have been found in the little basin to the eastward of the main range, but they have been abandoned as tmproli table. Similar placers, it is understood, have been slightly worked in the neighborhood of the mines at Cope district. COPE DISTRICT, NEVADA.t Discovered in 1869. Worked continuously since that interval. From Mountain City, the only mining camp in the dLstriet, to Elko, via the stage-road, the distance is ninety miles. The ores are principally sulphurets. Fuel for roasting is abundant, at convenient jilaces. Mining labor costs here ^4.50 per day. There have been two large mills erected here, extracting some bull inn. The X)rincipal mines worked in June, 1871, are as follows : Mountain City, Pride of the West, Argenta, Excelsior, Independent, U. S. Grant, Eldorado, Crescent, Idaho, Nevada, Emmett, and Saint Nicholas. A study of names on the recorder's books of the many mining districts furnishes much of an index to the character of the miners and prospectors, who often place no little stress and pride upon the names selected with so much solicitude. Number of residents, about * From notes furnished by Sir. G. K. Gilbert, t From notes furnished by Mr. F. E. Simonton, EXPLORATIOX IINT NEVADA. AND ARIZONA. 35 four liundred autl fifly; one freight and one stage lino to Elko. The eomitry roads are good in tbis vicinity. Tbe Shoshone Indians inhabit this locality, catching many salmon for themselves and the miners during the season. One of the forks of the bead-waters of the Owi; beo tr.averses this district. It is believed that mauy of tbe late developments do not favor tbe idea of permanency, although tbe present stage of tbe opening of tbe mines is not sufficiently advanced to warrant a definite conclusion. Notes from J. W. Drew, late Uuiteil States Army, give au altitude of 5,800 feet to the camp ; also, average of temperatures, maximum ami miiiimuai, as occurriug iu July aud December, former Sio, 21 F., latter 20°, 4.5 F. Suow liable to fall auy time between November 1 and April 30. Situated in a ratlier isolated comb-shaped range, this district lies to the east of the head of Maggie Creek, and about forty-live miles from Carliu, on the Central Pacific Railroad; it is more approachable, however, from Elko, Nevada, via the stage-road to Cope district. The district was only vi.sited by a topographical party. Very little work has been done on the mines, and but little prospecting even, iu this locality. The majority of the ledges are noted as occurring on the eastern slope of the mountains. Some Inter prcspects have been found on the western side, carry- ing argentiferous galena and carbonate ores, well charged with irou as both coloring and matrix matter. The specimens gathered from mines on the eastern side show galena aud poor sulphuret ore, carrying considerable carbonate of copper. There is evidently a field for intelligent prosiiecting in this vicinity. TTJSCAEOEA DISTRICT, NEVADA.* Tbe Tuscarora placer mines are on the southward slope of hills of rbyolite, facing Independence Valley, aud are fifty-six miles by road, north from Carliu Station. The dirt is derived from subjacent rock, and covers it to hut a small depth in the gulches— 5 to 10 feet. The gold has the same origin, and can be obtained in small quantity from tbe parent rock. Some spots shoAved so much as to induce the erection of a ten-stamp mill ; but the amount extracted was not remunerative, and the mill is idle ; there are no veins. Tbe dirt is washed in sluices, with water brought two to six miles, the supply availing but three or four mouths. The gold is combined with silver, and brings $12 to |I3 jier ounce. The diggings occupy a belt one-half mile by two miles. Most of the miners are Chinamen, working in companies Population about one hundred and twenty-five. There is no timber convenient. RAILROAD DISTRICT, NEVADA. This district, situated south of Carliu, on the Central Pacific Railroad, and at a distance of twenty-one miles, was visited by a topographical party. Specimens collected. The notes are want- ing. The district was established in June, 1870. The ores are very base, and should bo more properly termed copper ores. They, however, carry average assays of silver, and iu consequence of their proximity to the railroad, with which they are now connected by three good mountaiu roads, some, at least, of the.se properties will be profitably worked. MINERAL HILL DISTRICT, NEVADA. Discovered in June, 18G9. It has been worked nearly continuously since that time. A stage-line connects with Palisades on Central Pacific Railroad about thirty-one miles distant. The ledges are principally on the northwestern side of a conical-.shaped hill, being an outlier to the west from the main mountains ; direction of the mineral veins, northwest aud southeast. The devel- opment that had taken place at the time of our visit did not show the best of indicatious for the presence of a permanent vein, but gave more the appearance of pockets iu limestone, which exhaust, bringing up iu their downward coiu-se upon the country rock. However, it is understood • From uotes furnished by Mr. G. K. Gilbert. 36 EXPLOKATIO^S^ IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. that at the White Piue district, after exhaustiug these basius, frequently others are I'ouiul by sinking directly or following some mineral thread or discoloration. The ores belong to the base metal order, abounding in sulphurets of silver and lead and carbonate of copper. In order to extract an economic percentage, the roasting process has to be applied. The gross production up to June 1, 1871, or in two years, was ■«'600,000: number of tons, 3,300; cost of mining the ore, per ton, $5; cost of milling the ore, including roasting, per ton, $30 ; raining and milling labor per diem, §4. There is one 15-stamp mill with a Stedefeldt furnace erected here at a total cost of §80,000; its capacity is 22 tons in twenty-four hours. The principal mines worked are the Austin, Mary Ann, Kiiu Rock, Grant, Star of the West, Vallejo, and Pogonip; upon these mines, with the exception of the Austin, about $80,000 have been expended; returns 8450,000; upon the Austin about $50,000 expended, returns so far 8150,000. Number of inhabitants, four hundred and fifty nearly. One stage and a variety of freight-lines connect with the railroad. Cost of freight, 1 cent per pound. Stage fare, $S. The cost of a 10-stamp mill at this locality, with a Stedefeldt furnace, is estimated at $65,000, estimating $13,000 for the furnace; both this and the total amount being liberal estimates. The whole area covered by mineral croppings will hardly exceed one mile square. There is at present no indication of reaching a water-level. A species of natural flre-stone, valuable for the lining of the furnace, is found not far distant. Water is obtained in limited quantities in a caiion to the north and east, along which the little mining town has been built. Wood is not plenty in the immediate vicinity, though large tracts are in view upon the sides of the mountains to the north and east. The Shoshones inhabit this region, and work to a limited extent for the miners. The country roads in this vicinity are solid. When the local tariffs on the railroad and the price of labor diminish, many items that affect the cost of the extr.actiou of the bullion at this comparatively accessible district will be cheapened. This district was visited by one of the members of the fortieth parallel geo- logical survey. Many new develoiuuents have been made since that time. DIAMOND DISTRICT, NEVADA. (Visited by a topographical party. Results fi'om a few scattering notes.) Situated on the western slope of the Diamond Range, north and west from Diamond Station, on the old overland stage-road. Diamond City is the name of the little camp. The Mammoth mine has been well opened by a shaft, now more than 75 feet. The elevation at the mouth of this shaft is 7,740 feet. The ore is principally argentiferous galena, giving assays as high as $270 i)er ton, and carrying 72 per cent, of lead. Veins run north and south, crossing an east and west stratified rock, about one and one-half miles in width. A smeltiug-furnace. soon to be in operation, was being built. The original locators, having wasted some money in imiirovemcnts, abandoned afterward their claims. The principal locations are the Champion, Iliddeu Treasure, Patriot, Curtis, and Keller. The location of these mines in regard to the railroad and the high percentage of silver, ought to establish profitable enterprises in this distiict if the mines are systematically worked. EACINE DISTRICT, KEVADA. (From scattering notes by a topographical paity.) Situated about forty-five miles from Elko, on the western slope of the Humboldt Range, and east of Dutchman's Station on the White Pine stage-road. All the appurtenances for a mining camp are here abundant. Very little development made, and this only upon two mines — the Uncle Sam and De Witt. Elevation of mines, 7,440 feet; specimens show several varieties of base silver EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 37 ores, and are all from the cropi.)ings. A little legitimate prospecting may fiud surface indications to warrant the investment of a certain amount of capital to determine the character of this area ot mineral land. This district lies on the stage-road from Palisades, on Central Pacihc Railroad, to iiamiltou, White Pine County, seventy-nine miles distant from the former station. The mines were first dis- covered in 1868, worked for a period, and then partially abandoned, after whi(;h, iu the spring of 1870, developments were going on in full vigor. Seven furnaces were in operation, the most suc- cessful one at this time being that of the Eureka Consolidated Company. The mineral croppiugs of this region are strewn over a considerable space, with but little regularity of form. The lead- bearing ores predoijiinate, while on the western slopes of the rolling mountains that face toward the southern end of Diamond Valley, milling ores are found, of both sulphide and chloride of silver, in limestone, however, and having no remarkable appearance of permanence. The ore that pro- duces the best results from the smelting has a brownish, decomposed look, carrying much carbona- ceous matter, and oftentimes not lead enough to facilitate the smelting process. The ore-beds defined seem to have a dip to the northeast of about 30", following wavy beds quite similar to what has been noticed in disturbed coal basins. The principal mines worked are those of the Eureka Consolidated Company, embracing one entire hill, joined at the southeast by properties of the Phd-nix and Jackson Companies, the latter idle. Outside from these the Bull Whacker, Otto, Empire, and Lexington mines were visited, and samples of milling ores were taken from the Star of the West and General Lee. Various freight lines deliver stores for 1 cent per pound from railroad. The area covered by mines is most irregular in shape, but will approximate to eleven square miles. A volcanic granite quarry to the east of the town furnishes a fine quality of building material. Wood for charcoal is abundant among the hills, bordering a radius of eight to ten miles. No records on hand at present give the annual production of bullion. The amount from the Ely Con- solidated, running five furnaces, has often reached, if not exceeded, $175,000 per month. The present price for freight on bullion is $10 per ton, to the railroad. Several freight lines compete. The town of Eureka is a very lively and smoky one ; several hotels, one church, oue bank, and one school-house are found here. The Richmond furnace is the only one that has a refinery attached. SIERRA OR SECREX CANON BISTRICT, NEVADA. (Notes from a topographical party.) Situated south and east from Eureka, about twelve miles distant. Rich cropping found and sev- eral mines worked with great success. From the Geddis mines, Nos. 3 and 1, ore taken from a shaft over 70 feet in depth has milled an average of $225 — rich bodies bringing out results very much superior to this. The Calico mine has a shaft of 75 feet, showing average milling ore of $100. Shafts have also been sunk to good depths on the Bertram, and Geddis Nos. 1 and 2, Secret Valley, Stockton, and some others. The district, though small and comparatively new, has an air of good promise. The cost of the various items pertaining to mining industry varies but little if any from that at Eureka, near at hand. (Notes from a topographical party.) This little mining camp is situated at the entrance to a wide caQon on the eastern slope of the Diamond Range, among the foot-hills of which the mines are located, lying in a southeasterly direc- H8 EXPLOEATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. tion , and not far from Eureka. Specimens obtained were from the Maryland mine ; others forwarded from t'ais district have not been received for examination, but are taken from the Mountain Chief, Michigan, Uncle Sam, Duqnette, Cole & Johnson, and Our Own, No. 2, mines. The ores are chlo- rides and sulphurets of silver, with galeua interspersed; a part can be smelted; it is maintained that others can be worked by the wet or free process; course of veins northeast and southwest. Water is scarce, and at a distance from the mines. Wood for fuel purposes plenty. The several expenses of mining industry vary but slightly from tliose obtained in Eureka. MOEEY DISTEICT, NEVADA. The mines of this district are north of Hot Creek, the camp itself lying to the south of Eureka, a distance of seventy-five miles, and south and west from Hamilton, at a distance of sixty-one miles. The ledges are arranged in a parallel system of thin fissures, found in the foot hills, whose trend is south 55° west magnetic, and which form a jiortion of the eastern slope of the Hot Creek IJange. The mines are found on either side of these hills, nearly uniform in direction, converging slightly to the main peak of the contiguous ridge ; these foothills break oft" to the northeast from the main range. General trend of the mountains north and south. The country rock is somewhat disturbed, and much debris from the peaks to the southwest covers the surface. Bearing of lodes south 5o° west ; country rock is an ancient volcanic rock, probably propylite, with later introduced volcanic dikes. The veins have an average dip of 00°. No vein has been found to exhaust either in hori- zontal or vertical working. Some veins are perpendicular. Plenty of nut-pine and cedar for fuel and timbering in adjoining hills ; fine building-stone in canon one and a half miles to the south; three springs of fine water in the district. The ores are all high grades, associated with man- ganese, and require roasting. The Stedefeldt process has been found to give a high percentage at Austin. Average cost of mining per ton, $25; price of mining and millhig labor, $4. As yet there is no mill, although the developments justly merit one. Principal mines worked : Magnolia, Bay State, Cedar, and American Eagle. Total amount of bullion for nine months ending June 30, 1871, $27,500, giving an average of $315 per ton. Freight to Austin, 3^ cents ; to Eureka this might be reduced to 2 cents. The cost of a 10-stamp mill and Stedefeldt furnace is estimated at $45,000 ; this is a low estimate. The ore from these mines has been transported to Austin at a great expense and there worked; meanwhile the district has been self-supporting to the Morey Company, they being the only ones who have done much work. In their case, however, it has been conducted on a very small scale. The total number of feet owned by them is 20,400; this embraces the greater share of the district, whicli is quite small. The matrix material of the veins is soft. The introduction of Chinese labor succeeded satisfactorily at this point while it was tried by Mr. D. S. Ogden, the superiutendent, aud was only discontinued at the time it was concluded to lessen operations. This labor ought to be introduced to a certain limited extent among the mines of the interior, where cheap labor is so much needed. By arranging them in small gangs, placing over each an intelligent and vigilant foreman, the work can be equally as well done. They also succeed well as assorters of ore. The veins are from 3i to 5 feet thick, showing a pay-streak from C to 22 inches, aud giving assays from $75 to $525. Work was being pushed ahead on the Cedar and Magnolia at the date of our visit, and from the latter the most flattering results obtained at the end of the tunnel, 155 feet. Ore from a pay-streak from IS inches to 2J feet was continuously averaging from $150 to $200 per ton, and often reaching as high as $600. The Bay State, Mount Airy, American Eagle, and Black Hawk are all good mines. The average milling results, after little assorting, average from $.395 to $552 p(>r ton. (Juite thorough examina- EXPLORATION^ IX NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 39 tious were made here, and the impressions produced were exceedingly favorable; indeed, there are few localities yet encountered where there is a more favorable opportunity for the judicious expen ditnre of capital. No examinations made here since 18G9, subsequent to M'hich visit there was a great lull in mining matters ; latterly, however, the prospects have greatly revived ; mines have been found to descend where alone pockets were expected ; capital has been introduced on a large and liberal scale. I am informed that the charter has been granted and the incorporation perfected for a narrow-gauge railroad from Elko to Hamilton, and that work is soon to be commencetl. A wire tramway for transporting the ore from the mine to the mill at a trifling expense is in operation, and at last accounts was working successfully. Tiiis is the first instance in which this method of transporting the ores has been tried; various experiments are going ou with a view to perfect this sort of a tramway, and the results cannot fail to be a step in the right direction. SPRING VALLEY DISTRICT, NEVADA, This district is situated immediately north of the stage-road from Austin to Eureka and about twelve miles from the latter iilace. The ores are chlorides and sulphides of silver in metamorphic limestone, showing croppings of a limited size. But little labor has been applied, and beyond generalizations of the widest nature, but little can be said. Most of the miners were absent and the time for observation short. The mines lay in the southeastern foot-hills, covered with nut pine. Water is scai'ce. The country roads are good. ANTELOPE DISTRICT, NEVADA. Situated about fourteen miles in a southwest direction from Mineral Hill. Uase metal ore in a highly metamorphic limestone formation. No developments showing expectations even of a permanent vein. The croppings are distributed over a considerable area, among low, rolling hills, on the western slope of a range that passes nearly due south from Mineral Hill. Water scarce; wood plenty. A few miners at work. HOT CREEK AND EMPIRE DISTRICTS. Situated in the Hot Creek Range, and successively to the south and adjoining IMorey. These localities were visited by topographical parties, but no notes arc available except the average milling assays of the ores from the Hot Creek district at the Old Dominion mill, when this was in operation. These were very favorable, in no month falling below $200 per ton, and reaching as high as $325 per ton. The mines are on the eastern slope of the range, and crop from a volcanic formation. A transcript from the mill returns of the Old Dominion mill shows the avei'age working value per ton to range from $80 to •$J172. RATTLESNAKE CANON DISTRICT, NEVADA. South of Eaipire, adjoining it, and now believed to be a part of it; is being worked by a New York company, whose principal endeavors have attached to the Philadelphia mine; showing roast- ing ores, stedefeldtite predominating. The ore deposits are in volcanic rock. The water level had been reached, and arrangements were soon to be made for pumping, when it was intended to push the work on with vigor. The walls, at a depth of 55 feet, were clean and well defined. Water sufficient for nauiug purposes. Wood scai'ce. No mill in the cafion. A 2-stamp mill in sight in the vallev below. 40 EXPLORATION IX NEVADA AND ARIZONA. The little mining camp of this name is situated iu a canon that runs toward the Hot Creek Valley, and from the mountains between the Rattlesnake Cation and the old Milk Spring district. This district shows two very dissimilar series of ores. The first, prominent along a very long line of east and west croppiugs, is of a yellowish-brown ore, heavily charged with lead, assaying about $G0 per ton in silver, and, like the Eureka ores, can doubtless be easily smelted. The ores from the west, and in the direction of the Empire Caiion, .show .sulphide and chloride of silver in lime- stone, and also among volcanic rocks. The fir.st series belong to a line of fissure; the others have no particular direction, and doubtless are pockets for the greater part. The veins of the carbona- ceous ores are wide. Several miners were vigorously at work ; wood and water sufficient for mining purposes. The most direct access to this locality is via Eureka, and thence down Hot Creek Valley. The distance from Hot Creek Station is fourteen miles. But few developments had been made. The principal work has been done on the 2 G, Casket, and Western Extension mines. The district is, however, in my mind, cue of great promise, if developments prove that it can be worked on a large and comprehensive scale. The direction of the veins trends toward the summit of the range. The nearest milling center at present is Belmont. Plenty of wood for fuel purposes. Roads are not yet well opened. BATTLE MOTNTAl^- DISTRICT, :>JEVADA.» The district includes fonr princip.il locatious, kuowu as Battle Moimtain, Trenton, Galena, and Copper Canon, all on the eastern slope of the Battle Mountain Range. The first mentioned, ivhich is the oldest, I did not risit. Galena, five miles farther soutli, is now the principal center of activity ; it is situated fourteen miles south from Battle Mountain Station, -svitli which it is connected by a good road. The country rocks are metamorphic sedimentary, (quartzite, mica-slate, clay-slate, limestone, &c.,) dipping to the wesl at .all angles, from 20- to 75-. The veins are well defined, and for the most part are more nearly vertical than the adjacent beds, but trend vrith them north and soutli. The chief ore is argentiferous galena, and some mines have passed below the water-level ; others are still dry and yield a large proportion of oxidized ores. Price of labor, §3.i50 jjcr diem. No mill was in operation at the time of my visit , but that of the Nevada Butte Silver Mining Company approached completion. The best ore ($150 to S300 per ton) is shipped to .San Francisco. The principal mines worked are the Avalanche, Buena Vista, Butte, Trinity, and White, and they are comprised in an area about one and one-half miles square. Population, 200. The mines of Copper Cailon (the Virgin and Lake Superior) lie three miles farther south, aud are worked en- tirely for copper. The surface ores are carbonate of copper and red oxide, aud the deep-seated copper gl.ince. The w.ater- level has not been reached. The ore is sold iu Liverpool. Galena and Copper Canon have a scant supply of water, ami have no timber in the immediate vicinity, though it is found on the range, YANKEE BLADE DISTRICT, NEVADA.* Situated immediately north of the Ree,se Kiver district. It is reported at Austin that work has been entirely suspcniled in this district, REESE RIVIiR DISTRICT, NEVADA.* There arc no new developments at Austin, but, by economic and .skillful nianageuient, the place is recovering from the stagnation thai followed the White Pine excitement. The mih of the Manhattan Company, which now does a large custom business in addition to the reduction of the ores mined by the company, is to be enlarged, and another mill is building to reduce, by competition, the prices of milling, and foster still further the development of mines held by imrties with small capital. Great advantage is derived iu the largo miues from the use of a contract system, which pays the miners iu whole or part by a perceutage of the ore extracted. • From notes furnished by Mr, G. K. Gilbert. EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 41 KINGSTON DISTRICT, NEVADA.* Sitiiatccl oil tlio eastern tlauk of the Toyalje Range, twenty miles south of Aral in. The silver mines of the district are entirely tlescrtcil, and Ibo iii.ichincry of its mill is being removed. NORTH TWIN RIVER DISTRICT, NEVADA.* Situated ou the eastern flank of the Toyabe Range, facing Smoky Valley, and thirty-five miles south of Austin. The groat speculations that have been based on this district are without fulfillment. In Summit Canon, two men are said to be at work, and at the entrance of Park Canon, where stands an unfinished silver-reducing mill, the proprietor still faithfully maintains his residence. TWIN RIVER DISTRICT, NEVADA.* Situated immediately south of North Twin River district, and including Twin River, Last Chance, Ophir, and Wis- consin Cafions. In Ophir Canon the extensive works of the Twin River Silver Mining Company stand idle, the celc- brjited Mni-phy mine is full of water, and the town, once containing several hundred, has now but five or six inhabitants, two of whom are engaged in mining. The other canons are ipiito deserted. JEFFERSON DISTRICT, NEVADA.* This district of silver mines is situated on the west side of the Toquiraa Mountains, being separated by that range from the Silver Bend District, (Belmont.) and by the Smoky Valley from the Twin River district, (Ophir Canon.) It is entirely deserted. MANHATTAN DISTRICT, NEVADA.* This district, now .ib.andoned, was located ou the west side of the Tor|uima Mountains, immediately south of the JeftVrson district. MOUNTAIN CHIEF DISTRICT, NEVADA. This district, visited by a topographical party, lies on the eastern .slope of the Toqnima Range, and nearly duo north from our camp at Meadow Creek Oaiion. Principal mines: Monntain Chief, Mount Ruby, and Blue Point ; no notes available. / SILVER BEND DISTRICT, NEVADA. Belmont stands on a system of plicated black shales of silmian age, with some associated limestone and qnartzite, all dipping east and northeast at high angles, and resting against a mass of granite that lies west and south of them. The argcntiferons veins arc near the grauite, and dip and trend with the .strata.* Quite a minute survey and examination were made in this locality by members of the fortieth parallel geological survey, and there is little left to be done beyond chronicling changes in the material developments of the mines that have since taken place. Nothing has been done with the mining or mill property of the combination company. Mr. Canfield bad in constant operation a 10-stamp mill, with furnace and cru.shers, working upon ores from the Ai'izona and Transylvania mines, and iiajing a good profit. The owners of the El Dorado south were busily engaged in a legitimate development of their mine down to the water-level, which shows at this point a most beautiful fissure-vein. The old Belmont mill, situated in the town of Belmont, was receiving a thorough overhauling, preparatory to receiving new furnaces and machinery. The ore supply was expected to come from explorations that had commenced on the Transylvania uortb, and upon the old Belmont lead. The Monitor, in the bight of the hill near the summit, and lying nearly iu a line between the Arizona and El Dorado south shafts, was taking out fine, high-grade ore. Other parties, here and there, were prospecting theii' leads in a small way. * From notes furnished by Mr. G. K. Gilbert. 42 EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND AEIZONA. To the uortb ami west of the towu, and in the continuation of the mineral-bearing trend, some mines were visited. At one of them a little work is progressing. They doubtless belong to the same system of mineral deposition. Mining and milling labor commands $3.50 per day. There are sixty stamps set up in this district, only ten of which were working. Two freight-lines connect with Austin. Number of inhabitants, 400. There is said to have been taken out, in bullion, from the High Bridge, $170,000; El Dorado, $200,000, and Transylvania, $250,000. During the last year the bullion from the Arizona has in- creased the above amount, so that probably the district in total has produced not far from $750,000. The veins here are undoubtedly permanent. The range of the properties is limited. Developments become exceedingly expensive after reaching the water-level. By the judicious combination of interests and application of capital, this could be made one of the most flourishing districts in the interior of Nevada. The original name of this district was Silver Bend, then it was temporarily called Philadelphia ; at present the record-books show " Silver Bend " to be the appropriate name. KEVEILLE DISTRICT, NEVADA.* Reveille district, orgauized iu 1856, is on the Reveille Range, two hundred and twenty miles sontli, by road, from Elko, on the Central Pacific railroad. The mountains are here composed of heavy beds of lime and quartzite, uplifted ,ind shattered by massive eruptions of rhyolitic lava. Silver ore has been found at numerous points in the surface of the limestone, with a calc.areo-siliceous gangne. but no traceable vein has been demonstrated, except along the uneven margin of the rhyolite, where it is adjacent to the limestone. The base metals are iron, copper, lead, and antimony. No deep mining has been done, but a notable amount of superficial work. A mill for the district was buUt twelve miles west, at the foot of the Hot Creek Range, but it is not now used, and the district is quiescent. The supplies of water and timber are scant. This was formerly known as the Worthington district, and it is situated northwest from Silver (^anon, about seventeen miles distant. The ores are represented as rich smelting ores. The notes taken by C. A. Ogden are not now available. It is understood that the main mountains are of limestone, highly fossiliferous, covered on their eastern flanks by eruptive beds of rhyolite. The deposits occur on the eastern base, cutting across the ravines that are parallel with the northeast spurs. Water in two places for mills ; timber sufificient for fuel and building purposes. The area covered by croppings is about 2J square miles. ELY DISTRICT, NEVADA. The range, or group of hills occupied by the district stands as an island on the eastern foot-slopes of the Ely Mountain Range, and is quite as peculiar iu structure as In position, since its axis of elevation and the accompanying fractures trend north 00° west, and the system of argentiferous veins east and west, nearly at right angles to the gcner.al trend of the Cordilleras. The rocks are slightly altered limestone and argillaceous shale, with vitreous sandstone or qnartzi te. At Pioche the latter stretclies as a longitudinal belt, a half mile in width, with an easy dip to the northeast, and is sejiarated by faults from bodies of limestone and sh.ale on either side, tluough which it seems to have been uplifted. The metalliferous veins are confined to this belt. In the shale a few fossUs were found, one of which I thought to be a Carboniferous form, ( riiUUjpsia,) but, as the specimens were afterward destroyed, it has been impossible to conlirni this identification.' This district, flrst discovered in 1804, was relocated, and developments commenced in 18GS. A visit was made here in the fall of 1SG8, since which time astonishing developments have been made, and Pioche ranks second to no mineral section in Nevada, except Washoe. Fifty-five stamps were busily employed, the ore being worked by what is known as the wet process, giving a foir percentage; ■ Fiom notes furnished bv Mr. G. K. Gilbert. EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 43 the-, tailings are collected, however, and will be reworked at some later period. Oalv tbe bi-her grade ores are earned to the mill at the present stage of the naming industry. Water beino.;" oa.twa.id, otheis at Ball.onville, eleven miles to the south. The present cost of transportation of o es rom he n„ne to the mill is somewhat of a burden. The walLrock is auartzite, b^rb oke nd disturbed in many places ; the ores found are chloride and sulphuret of silver specim n « h n and ruby silver, stedefeldtite, argentiferous galena, small amounts of manganate f s Iv r ! lie ad carbonate of lead, and pyrites of iron. The lower levels have a tendeLy towa ^lu ^hu^ o es and i is not unlikely that, at no distant date, in order to secure a sufficiently high per6 ^ " roasting will have to be introduced. percentage, o"?t oT d . : , ■" 1 " "■ '™''-'' "' '''''''^' '"" "" ^^''^^ '^'''^'''' "-- ^>-"^- "-ting ou^ht to lead to a wide and more substantial vein to the westward Astonishing results have been obtained from the (Lightener) shaft, sunk on the Raymond and :" goo!u;:mi!r ■ '' '''''' '^^ ^""^' -^-^^^^ '^^^■^^"^^■°^"^^^' -- -^ -^^^^^ - -I-ted a' This district was the scene of considerable terror and bloodshed for quite a season caused bv plrlt r^r T ""'^""'^ "^^^"^ *"" ^^'^^^^"^ " ^"'"'^^"^ " «f ^^^^-- Much of hH;^ mn ecords. titles, &c., are often placed, incident upon the irregular method of the prospeetin. locating and placing in market of mines in interior and remote sections ^' U>J^^tTZ:',!T' '' '"'"' ''''' "" " ^'^^^'^"^' ^"^^"'^' ^"^ -"-^"lated a mining anlleft the ! ) .f' '"''"'"'' '" ""'''■ ^' '^■^' '"^ ^"S"'^^' ^^^^^^^^^^^ nearly evervthin^ and left the surface of the country more desolate than before the mines were worked • since tlu rw t::::;rr\^rr^^ '^ ^" -^^^^^^ --^« -^- ^»"^on is producerhrs^::; a new town of as respectable proportions as the former this LT' '"'' ''"''"'^' '"^"^' '^°' '^^"^^"'^'^^ ^'^ "'^^'"■^' ^^«t---^' - -«^^' -re destroyed in HIGHLAND DISTRICT, NEVADA. This lies to the west of Pioche, Nevada, and is understood to be in a limestone formation t'kl bva? ;■ '''''^'''''^^' tJ^^t a 30-stamp mill is about to be erected. " The" notes taken by a topographical party are not at hand. BLIND MOUNTAIN DISTBICT, NEVADA North and west from the Highland, carrying base-metal ores ; little prospected, and verv little work being done. Mining laws very good ; plenty of wood, but water scanty No es f om a graphical party not at hand. ^^otes iiom a topo- CEDAE DISTRICT, NEVADA. I and ^'f ,''f "? f ''''"'''' '" ''''' '''''' '''' «^ *^^ -^«*^- «'^« Of I^^miett Spring Mountains ' and n any due east from Pahranagat Lake. Most of the assays, so far as con d be fou To ' showed only a low-grade silver ore. The locality was not visited f^-om want of t^e. ' PAHRANAGAT LAKE DISTRICT, NEVADA. Great Qnartz Uo.nt.i. U a .ass of upimd ana .o.new.at aUercl strata, .vitb a genera, .i, t,. t.e w. vest. Tb.j 44: EXPLOIIATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA.' quartzite, 500 to (iOO feet thick, that caps the riflge, are of slight iiicliuatioii, exposiug their edges ou both siiles of the mountain, and they contain an interstratilied bed of black limestone. Below them is an almost uninterrupted exposure of limestone, to the eastern base of the mountain, and iu these are the mines. They are so much disturbed and faulted that the thickness of the mass cannot be definitely ascertained, but it can hardly be less tlian 2,000 feet. The limestones are profusely fossiliferous, and belong to the Hudson River and Trenton groups of the Silurian system.* The district of raliranagat Lake, once the scene of great activity and excitement, is now com- paratively deserted, except by a few persons known as " chloriders," who here and there coyote little pockets of rich ore, and take it to the Crescent mill, where it can be worked by the wet process. The miU of the Hyko Silver Mining Company, who at one time spent their money here in so princely a manner, although well appurteuanced in every particular, now stands idle; though why, it is ditlicult to say. From a careful examination of this district, the i^resence of a great deal of surface mineral has been definitely determined ; it has also been found out that former labors have been directed independent of sense or judgment. The metamorphic limestone is greatly disturbed, and the tracing of the veins through it is very diflicult. In the northern part of the district, spread over a considerable area, and cropping from the quartzite, other portions of this apparently large mineral deposit are found. It seems patent that success alone is to come from this portion of the extensive property, and it is my belief that no permanent and remunerative vein will be opened in the district until the croppings in the quartzite are tried. Verifying this opinion, formed while in the district, a shaft has been sunk iu this locality, and good results obtained, although it had not reached over seventy feet at the date of the informatiou. It is rumored that the New York Company are soon to resume operations, and Pahrauagat may yet add its history to that of the mining centers of the West. A bed of volcanic tufa at Logan Spring can furnish very superior building-stone. TIM-rAn-UTE DISTRICT, NEVADA. This district lies nearly due west from Silver Carton, occupying the southwestern end of a detached range, similar to the Worthiugton Eange. The eastern limit of the mineral-bearing zone is highly metamorphosed slate, with north and south stratification, parallel to which, and protruding through limestone, the country rock is a parallel quartzite dike, extending laterally for miles. Most of the leads are found between the quartzite and the slate, although stringers and seams of the ore are iu the quartzite. It was supposed at one time that there was an immense vein of ore through the district, and that the luca lode was this mother vein. Very few developments had been made to determine this, however, and nothing certain has been shown beyond a few narrow and rich leads. Several miners are laboring with a laudable vivacity, and it is hoped that their endeavors will be happily rewarded. Most of the miners are poor, and capital is sadly needed among the many for- ■bidding localities in which mines are found. The ores average high grade, and considerable bullion has already been produced at the Crescent Mill and at Hyko. The rocks are sedimentary, and comprise a series of thin-bedded, vitreous, red sandstone, overlaid by a mass of soft .argillaceous and chloritic shales, succeeded iu turn by massive gray and black limestones. These all trend north and south with the general course of the rango, and dip to the east at an average angle of 30'^. The several strata are to bo seen, in the order named, by crossing the range from west to cast, the sandstones and limestones, in virtue of their superior hardness, standing iu bold ridges on either side of the eroded shale. By a succession of vertical faults carrying down the more easterly beds, the minor features are several times repeated, and the superficial width of the several members increased. * From notes furnished by Mr. G. K. Gilbert. EXPLOKATIOX IIST NEVADA AND AKIZONxV. 45 PMallol with this systom of faults, and witbiu the shales, are the metalliforoiis deposits. Iiiterstratilieil with the same shales are a few feet of limestone containing fossils of the Potsdam epoch. This is, I believe, the lirst recorded occurrence iu the great basin of argentiferous veins in primordial rocks.* This is an argentiferous galena district, and is situated south and west from Timpah uto Peak. The mines occur in a system of parallel veins or deposits, from 75 to 200 feet wide, and show large amounts of ore. The galena is bright and lu.strous, and carries in its composition little or no fluxing agent. The surrounding hills are covered with nut-pine and cedar. The ores are of low grade, but the resulting lead should be of economic value. These ores will have to pass through a scorifying l)rocess before they can be introduced into a blast-furnace, and need, in connection, some fluxing agent. Whether nature has furnished that in the near vicinity has not yet been determined. Should this be found, and thorough proof adduced that the problem of smelting these ores can be solved on the ground, there seems to be no reason why, if this district were operated on a large scale, it should not bo equally as profitable as the mines of Cerro Gordo. Cost of mining, $2 per ton. Mining labor, $i per day. About $7,000 have "been expended on the mines, developing con- tinuance to 50 feet iu depth. SOUTHEASTERN DISTRICT, NEVADA, t Work, on a small scale, has been carried on at intervals iu this district since its discovery, iu the spring of 1>*70. The ucarest water is to the northwest about twelve miles. The situation of the mines is to the southeast from Tim-pah- nte Peak, in a canon on the western slope of the northern end of the Vegas Range. Veins have appearance of perma- nency; ores of low grade. Ores are base, the principally associated metal being copper. Plenty of wood for mining purposes. "WAUCOVA DISTRICT, CALIPORNIA. This district is nearly due east from Camp Indepeudeuce about twenty-two miles, and on the eastern slope of the Inyo Range. The mines were not examined by any members of the party; however, from the specimens and description, I am led to believe that they resemble, to a certain extent, those at Cerro Gordo that have been made so profitable. They are of argentiferous galena principally, some indifferent silver rock being exposed iu places. But little work has been done so far. Wood and water are plenty. These mines may probably be made remunerative if worked on an extensive scale. SAN ANTONIO DISTRICT, NEVADA. | We left San Antonio on the following morning, (July 5,) and traveled iu a southeasterly direction for about nine miles. The soil at first was sandy, with "sage bushes" growing iu abundance. When we h.ad gone about six miles the soil became more barren and the vegetation scant. Here we came across volcanic ashes, with large cxuautities of fragments of agate, silicified wood, and lava. Iu the sjiring of 1864 J. P. Cortez & Co. opened the first mine, soon after ■which the district was formed. This mine was the La Libortad, which was soon followed by the Potomac, the Merri- mac, and the Lea ; and the whole number of claims in the district nnmbored about two hundred and fifty. San Lorenzo, or the old Potomac Camp, is a small, deserted village among a series of hills in a small valley, altitude 6,600 feet, (aneroid barometer 57.) We went southward in this small valley, in a gradual ascent, for about three-fourths of a mile, then descended again for the same distance to the Potomac. The general stratification of all the rocks runs northwest and southeast. The tunnel is iu the side of the hill, penetrating the stratifications at nearly a right angle cast 40"-" north, to a depth of 300 feet through quartz. The ores are cupreous sulphurets, also malachite and films of azurite. About fifty tons of ore have been taken out, averaging, without assorting, $100 per ton. Tliis tunnel was iutenued to touch or iieuetrate the Jupiter lode; altitude at mouth of tunnel, 6,622 feet. Southeast of this, about 200 yards, is the Merrimac, not worth mentioning. * From notes furnished by Mr. G. K. Gilbert. tFrom notes furnished by Mr. F. R. Simontou. I From notes furnished by Dr. W. J. Hofl^man. 46 EXPLOEATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. Wo now procecilcd to the La Liboitad, which is the most southeni mine of the distiii.t. The ciitiauce to the miue is an iiicliuo at an angle of 43 ', altitude 5,710 feet, to a depth of 500 feet. At 400 feet we cam e to moist earth, and at a depth of 4G0 or 475 feet to water, which tills the bottom of the mine. Here we came to a drift rnnuing northwest to a distance of 50 feet. The quantity of ore taken out is about 300 tons. Cost of mining, $25 per ton ; cost of shipping, §25 per ton ; cost of working, 625 per ton. The amount derived since opening, about $100,000, which is not quite equal to the sum expended. MONTEZUMA DISTRICT, NEVADA.* (Camp in Big Smoky Valley, July 7, 1871. J Wo left camp soon after snnvisi: for Montezuma, which was but eight miles southwest, on the northern slope of Mount Nagle, in a small ravine. In the valley we were just leaving was a salt-marsh, which is separated from the Sil- ver Pe.ak salt-nuirsh by a low divide of volcanic rocks, a continuation of Lone Mountain, with these mountains sur- rounding Montezuma. This district was discovered May 18, 1887, and was organized on May 24, 18G7. The district has been worked constantly since that time. The recorder is Matthew Plunket. The nearest post-ofBee is Silver Peak. The general course of the mining and other ledges is east 35- north and west 35^ south. Incline of strata, 48^. The High Bridge mine follows down between two strata of metamoriihic limestone, in which was emholite, (chloro-bromide of silver,) to a depth of 85 feet. Valne, from l|6S to .$200 per ton. Altitude of opening, 0,050 feet. South of the town of Montezuma (which consists of six houses, two taverns, and a store, besides one dwelling-house, aud a mill) lie the mines on the hill-side. The Savage mine, the most important in the place, has a tunnel of 80 feet depth to a silver- bearing vein, whose dip is at an angle of 40-'. ■ • The altitude of mouth of tunnel is 7,010 feet, (aneroid barometer 57.) The ores are embolito, sulphurets, malachite, azurite, (scarce,) selenite, chafazite, and a few of the rare zeolites. The principal mines are the Crocket, Mountain Queen, Brewster, aud Osceola. The other mines of importance are the Hubbard, Norfolk, Southern, Light, Burchard, &c. Tlicrc are about fifty claims in the district, nine of which have been worked at difterent times. The timber is abundant all over the mountains, but water is taken from -wells. There is a lO-stanip mill erected at the camp, (dry stamp,) with a reverberatory furnace. This is also deserted at present. There are a few Indians living in the mountains. They appear to be at iieace with all, and are often hired to carry water, wood, aud do other work around the mines. Most miners get from 5i75 to $100 per month, with board. There has been expended in the development of the Crocket, |2,500 ; Mountain Queen, $8,000 ; Brewster, $3,000 ; and Osceola, $2,500. The ores are worked at Benton and Columbus. BLIND SPRING DISTRICT, CALIFORNIA.* This district was organized iu the autumn of 18S4. Distance from Reno one hundred and eighty-five miles, and AVadsworth one hundred and sixty-five miles. The mountain and ledges run north and south. There is one fissure- vein called the Comanche. This has not boon sufficiently developed to give entire proof as such. No wood found here, and water occurs only in the valleys, from four to six miles away. The ores are antimoniates of lead aud silver, and are extremely rich in silver. The yield for 1871 was $60,000. Cost of miuing is $10 per ton ; cost of milling and chlor- idizing, $15 per ton ; labor per diem, $4 ; labor per month, $(iO, with board. In the district near Benton is one 4-stami) mill, built at a cost of $4,000. It is run by water-power. This mill cau work one and a half tons per day, (of ore.) The principal mines are the Comanche, Rockingham, Diana, and Silver Sprout, also the Wilson Claim, and Cornucopia. Costs of developing the claims are as follows : Comanche, $15,000 ; Rockingham, $12,000; Diana, $40,000 ; Wilson Claim, $7,000; Cornucopia, $G0,000— not worked now; Silver Sprout $2,000; Koarsarge, $15,000. Late advices show a great change in the character of the ores in the Rockingham mine. At the time of visiting this place the water-level had not yet been reached, and the antimoniates of silver abounded exclusively. But upon reaching the water-level, at a depth of about 350 feet, the antimoniates were gradually replaced by the sulphurets, pyrites froiiuently occurring. Partzwick has .about ten buildings, of which one is a livery-stable, one store, and one liquor store and hotel; number of inhabitants about forty. They are erecting at the northern end of the village a 10-stamp mill, with a Stede- feldt furnace, with capacity of working 15 tons of ore per day. Bchton is situated about a half mile south of Partzwick, and has — houses, 12 ; inh.abitants, 55; blacksmith's shop, 1 ; hotel, 1 ; stores, 2; saloons, 2 ; livery-stable, 1 ; school-house, 1 ; Wells, Fargo & Co.'s office; post-office. Also 1 arraatra mill, (water-power). " From ]U)tes furnished by Dr. W. J. Hoflfraan. EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 47 ALIDA DISTRICT, NEVADA.* Alida Valley is from one to two miles broad, by about six miles in length. At the extiemc eastcru part is located the spring, from ^vhich issues a fine stream of water. At the summit we just crossed we found a largo vein of mala- chite and black oxide of copper crojipiugs. The ravines on both sides of the mountain are covered with cedars and pines in abundance, and on the northern side of the mountain we saw two springs of good water. Alida Valley is covered with good grass, and the watercourse is fringed with a dense undergrowth of willows. Here a man named Scott was working a claim which ho had discovered. The ore was stromeyerito, with malachite, cuprite, and a little hematite. GOLD MOUNTAIN DISTRICT, NEVADA.* We followed a trail up a wash, which took us just to the east of Mount Magruder, then down a geutlo slojio, and across a barren desert. Finally, after crossiug two ranges of mountains, we came to another sand desert. Vp the opposite side of this wo came to Camp Gold Mountain, which is situated on the northern slope of Gold Mountain. The well at Gold Mountain Camp furnishes just sufficicut water for the three men and foiu- animals that are kept there. The district was formed in 1865. The nearest jilace for mail and fre)ght-shipi>iug is at Silver Peat. The nearest rail- road station is Battle Mountain. Wood is abundant, and water can ouly be obtained on the northern slope of the moimtain by sinking wells. On the southern slope, in a ravine, is East Spring, of alkaline water. The chief ore is gold, and for the purjiose of reducing this an arrastra has been erected, and gold is obtained by means of amalgama- tion. Cost of mining the oro is about ■'JilO per ton. Barley is worth 10 cents per pound, and hay is worth .$50 per ton. There is sufficient grass on the mountain-slopes to furnish all pasture necessary for the animals. The amount realized for one month's work is $400, .and two hundred pounds of rock is generally worked per day. The chief mines are the Evening Star, State Line, Nova Zcmbla, Kohinoor, Golden Eagle, Bamboo, Boomerang, Little Bell, Iluburmac, and Bor- neo. The total number of locations is about forty. The amount expended since 1865 is about §7,000. There are but two men working at present, but at one time there were twenty employed. A 10-stanip mill would cost in this place If 10,000 or $15,000. Many of the mines are situated on the slopes of the smaller mountains, which generally run east and west. Much gold is taken out of the summit of one mountain of syenite. The gold occurs in qnartz, Jasper, and malachite ; specimens of the latter are unique. Argentiferous seleuite, of excellent quality, occurs in abundance four miles south of camp. The State Liuo ledge, lying five miles to the northwest, is 3,000 feet in length, and ;2P feet thick, yielding $30 per ton. The ledge runs northwest and southeast. PALMETTO DISTRICT, NEVADA.* This district was formed on April 0, 1860. Nearest place of communication is Silver Peak. The nearest railroad staion is Wadsworth. The ledges run north-northwest and south-southeast, and dip at an angle of 45° northeast. Abundance of timber, and several springs of water, and small streams two miles east. The number of tons of ore taken from the mines is about 500. Cost of mining ore is $12 per ton ; cost of milling and roasting, .f35 per ton ; cost of chlo- ridizing, §15 i)er ton ; labor per day, miuing, $4; labor per daj', milling, $4; cost of barley, per pound, 5 cents; cost of hay, per ton, ijSO. There is one 10-stamp mill here, which cost $90,000. The principal mines. — On the westeru'slope of the range are the New York, Champion, Kentucky, and Virginia, suji- posed to be the same vein. Those on the east are the Tennessee, Palmetto, Carolina, aud Louisiana. The amount expended in these mines is $75,000, aud bullion obtained about $200,000. A 10-stamp mill at present would cost about $36,000. The valley con- t.ains large quantities of grass, and is generally on limestone aud sandy soil. Farther to the west are largo quantities of porphyritic •granite, containing fine crystallizations of orthoclase. GREEN MOUNTAIN DISTRICT, NEVADA. This district lies to the south of Palmetto, aud is at iircsent deserted. It was organized in 1869. The cost of working is the same as in Palmetto. The gold which was worked chiefly amounted to about $2,000. The only silver ledge in the district, the Vcta Madre, runs northwest and southeast, and dips east. This lies between limestone and granite strata. The once famous Tule Canon belongs to Green Mountain district. A part of the old Cottonwood district belongs to the Palmetto. In the latter district .are about one hundred and twenty-five claims. There are not more than twelve or fifteen persons living here at present. From notes furnished by Dr. W. J. Hofl'man. 48 EXPLOEATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. COLUMBUS DISTEICT, NEVADA.* Tbe town of Colnmbns is situated on the sontliern slope of the mountains, facing the desert. Cohimbus district was formed and organized in December, 1864. The nearest railroad station is Wadsworth, which is one hundred and ' thirty-three miles distant. The district is twenty miles square. The general course of the mountains is east and west, with small spnrs running off in northerly and southerly directions. The mines are located all over the mountains. The metal-bearing veins run northwest and southeast, and are found in limestone, slate, and granite. Wood occurs in abun- danc3 eight miles from town. Water is scarce, as it is taken from wells. There are three mills at this place, two of which arc 5-stamps each, and one a 4-stamp mill. There is no Stedefeldt furnace attached to any of them. The ore is chiflly chloro-bromide, (embolite,) and the mills since starting, a year ago, have yielded about |30,000. Ores are worked by the dry process. The total number of tons worked is between 3,000 and 4,000. Cost of mining is $10 per ton ; cost of roasting and milling, |45 per ton ; cost of labor per day, at mines and mills, |4 ; cost of barley, 5i to G cents per pound ; cost of hay, $45 per ton. Tlie stage runs to and from Reno ; fare, $50. Freight is taken to and from Wadsworth, and costs from 4 cents to 5 cents per pound. The two 5-stan)p mills work each about six tons of ore per day, and the 4-stamp mill about five tons per day, making a total of seventeen tons per diem. The principal mines of the district are the Mount Diablo, Black, Metallic, Columbia, Northern Bell, Peru, Potosi, Bellmarte, P.appinaux, and Vulture. Development of Mount Diablo has cost $40,000, the rem.aiuing ones each |J15,000. There are five hundred or six liuudred locations in the district. Total number of inh.abitants about three hundred ; number of houses about forty-live, including stores ; stores, 4 ; livery stables, 2 ; saloons, (about,) 10. ONEATA DISTEICT, CALIFORNIA.* This district was formed in June, 1870. The town is ten miles from tbe district. Reno is one hundred and twenty-five miles from Benton and the nearest railroad station. The mines and district are located on the western slope in the northern spur of tbe White Mountain Range. The ore is, in appearance, a mere deposit, and the 100 tons that are now in sight yield, or are worth, according to assay, from $25,000 to $30,000. There is running w.ater and plenty of timber all through this part of the mountains. The ores accompany talcoso slate, granite, and nietamorphic limestone. The ores are all sent to Columbus for milling. Cost of working mines, |00 per ton ; cost of milling, $60 per ton ; cost of mining and milling labor, each $4 per d.ay ; hay worth $40 to $45 per ton. TIio principal mines are the Wetherell and Indian Queen, and proceeds for one mouth's work (of ore) was $500. Freight to Reno is 7 cents per pound, and for ores §60 per ton. There is a 10-stamp mill and Stedefeldt furnace building now at Partzwick, costing $25,000. In these mines there are generally from twenty to thirty men employed. MONTGOMERY DISTRICT, CALIFORNIA.* The next district is the Montgomery, organized in 1863 by Henry B. Rich as recordci-. The mountains, as in the last district, run north and south, and the mines are located over uearlj' all p.arts. The true metalliferous veins run irreguharly north and south. There is iileuty of wood and water in the moun- tains. The rock overlying the silver-bearing rock is limestone, over which comes granite. The ore yields generally from $250 to $300 per ton. Cost of mining, per ton, $75 ; cost of milling, per ton, $50 ; cost of roasting, per ton, $15 ; cost of labor, per diem, |4. SILVER PEAK AND RED MOUNTAIN MINING DISTRICTS, NEVADA, t These mines are situated in Esmeralda County, Nevada. Jii'd Mountain distncl. — The mines in the district were discovered January 26, 1864. Silver Pealc district. — The mines in this district were discovered, and district organized February 1, 1865. The distance from railroad is one hundred and sixty miles by wagon-road. Nearest station on railroad is W.idsworth. Timber. — This is located on the summit and -west slopes of the Red Mountains, extending twelve or fifteen miles along the summit, and about ten miles fi'om the mill. The timber-belt is about eight or ten miles wide. Varieties; Pinon or nut-piue, cedar, mountain mahogany. The timber is small, but good for that country, and plenty of it. Water. — In Clayton Valley, near foot of eastern slope, is a cluster of large springs. They are all brackish, one or two boiling, nearly all warm, and a few cold. Water is abundant enough to run a 200stamp mill. Also springs on west slope. Red Mountain Spring, the principal one, issues from the foot of the peak of that name. This water is pure " From notes furnished by W. J. Hoffman. t From notes furnished liy Lieutenant D. A. Lyle. EXPLORATION IN NE\^ADA AND ARIZONA. 49 au.l good. Liu,e.toue spring flows at least 6,0U0 gallous i„ 12 hours. .Several springs ou the western slope- one small alkali spring on eastern slope, about six miles from those in valley; water quite cohl. Koclcs ami m;«.r„?.,._Liu,estonc, granite, mica, greenstone trap'; one very remarkable «.-The gross annual production of bullion from these mines, while the mill wms vuuni,,..- was between §900,000 and |1,000,000, averaging about «25,000 per mouth. Cosi of mM,ui, milling, #o.-Average cost per ton for mining, (gold and silver mixed,) .if5 per ton. (^^/..-rerhaps a little more for gold, and a little less for silver.) Average, cost for milling per ton, (no silver milled,) *;?.50 for gold. Average cost for roasting, (none roasted here, some silver sent away and roasted.) Average cost for mining labor, ^4 per diem. Indian labor, (used at mill,) 50 cents per diem. Cost of 10-stamp mill, (put up.^ gold, .^5,000 ; cost of lO-stamp mill, (put up,) .silver, ^20,000 to $25,000; cost of20-stamp mill, (put up,) gold, .$25,000; cost of 20-,stamp mill, (put up,) silver, 130,000; cost of SO-stamp mill, (put up,) gold, *30,000; cost of 30-stamp mill, (put up,) silver, $.50,000. Mines ,rorto7.-The principal work has been upon the Crowning Glory Mine. The company employed seventy-five men upon it for three years at $4 per diem. The amount expended in the mineral development of these mines is about ^280,000. Total amount of bullion extracted, about .$2,000,000. The ore is hauled about seven or eight miles over a good road to the mill. The ore is transported down from the mine for some distance in ore-carts, over a railroad; these cars descend under the action of the force of gravity almost, and are hauled up empty by mules. lnhahltant..~At present only four or five men remain here, all the hands having left, while the mill lies idle for repairs, and all work is suspended. There are in the place about twenty houses built of concrete, one store, and one l.very stable. Materials for making concrete are clo.se at hand, gravel being on the ground and limestone in a butte near by, and a lime-kiln near the mill. The company burn their own lime. There is one stage-line to Aurora, tare |2.-> to that point and .$50 to Reno on railroad. Freight, H cents per pound to AVadswortb. Mails weekly, I think. DEEP SFKING VALLEY DISTRICT, CALIFORA'IA.* This district was organized in 1862, and called White Mountain district, but has since been changed to the above ■ Nearest .station on Central Pacific Railroad is Wadsworth, distance one hundred an,l eighty miles. name Principal Mincx, 1. C;«rfm-//«.-This vein dips to west b'-. It is not worked now. Some miners sunk a shaft to some depth a few years ago, but were killed or driven away by tlu« ludians. Assay value per ton, $75. 2. San /«««._There has been expended in opening this mine about .$2,000. It has produced so far $1,500 in bullim, 3. Julm Dmn.-Oue thousand dollars hav^ been expended ou this mine. No bullion produced. Vein vertical 4. San Fmnchco.-Five hundred dollars expended opening it. Three hundred and sixty dollars produced in luillio,,. 5. TeHHa«t.-One thousand dollars expended on it. Produced $500 or $(!00 in bullion. 6. Homestead.— i-ive hundred expended. Produced $600 in bullion. : Om.-AU silver. Some of the veins contain 33.V per cent, of gold, aud others more. The ores must be reduced by roasting. Average yield per ton, $100. The ledges and veins are situated in both the foot-hills and main rau^e of the White Mountains. They lie in Deep Spring Valley, in the ea.stern slope of those mountains, aud extend from the low foot-hills to the summit. There are two sy,stems of veins running nearly at right angles to each other. In the foot- hills the strike of the lodes is north and south. Near the summit it is nearly e.ast and west. Country roek is granite ill the foot-hills, and higher up it is talcose slate. *From notes furnished by Mr. F. Klett. 50 EXPLOEATIOX IN NEVAJ)A AXD ABIZOXA. Timber. — About three miles (north) iu the moniitaiiis there is i)lent5" of wood — cediir, and nnt-piiie. About twelve miles up on the range good pine is found. TValvr. — AVyoming Creek, having its source iu the mouutaius to the north and northwest, descending, runs southeast tor four or tive miles in Deep Spring Yalley, and sinks in the sand ; -nater, pure aiul excellent, sufficient for a small mill, at least. Milh. — One mill here, 5-stamp battery, run by water-power, 2 iiaus, 1 settler, and 1 furnace; cost about I$1U,0U(I. Can mill about 4 tons of ore per day. Coat of labor. — Average cost per ton for mining the ore. iS20; average cost per ton for milling and roasting, $50 ; mining labor per diem, &i : milling labor per diem, s:5. FISH SPRING DISTRICT, CALU'ORXIA.* This district lies in the foot-hills on the eastern side of the Sierra Nevada, about nineteen miles north of Camp Independence, California, in Owen's River Valley. The mines are small gold mines, mostly owned by one man, and worked by means of arrastras run by water-power. They yield a small but certain income. Water very abundant and excellent. My notes on this district are not at hand, which precludes any attempt at giving yields, Ac. KEARSARGE DISTRICT, CALIFORNIA. This district is situated well up iu the foot-bills of the easteru slope of the Sierras, at a distance of eight miles from Camp ludependeuce, California. The miues are well opened at two levels, and show in each large qufintities of average milling ore, that yields a good percentage and return by the well-known Washoe pi'ocess. A tramway down a steep incline carries the ore from the mine to the mill, which is compactly constructed, of ten stamps, with all the modern improvements. The application of water as the power for driving the machinery is by far the prettiest specimen of the kind that I have ever seen. A m,ountaln creek is tapped loO feet above the mill, and the water brought in an open ditch to a plane inclined at an angle of about 40°, down which it passes with tremendous velocity until it is received by a 13i-inch turbine wheel, which it .sets in motion, and which takes the part of an expensive engine iu the ordinarj' mills. The ores are of chloride and sulphide of silver associated with oxide, sulphide, and carbonate of lead. Many specimens are covered with crystals of molybdate of lead, and are of a yellowish- brown color. All the mines that are worked in this district belong to the Kearsarge Mining Com- pany ; they are 13 in number, and are all supposed to belong to one large fis.sure vein. This is one of the many districts that would be tapped and suijplied by a railroad passing to the southward from either Truckee or Wadswoith, on the Central Pacific Eailroad, to the Colorado Kiver. SAN CARLOS DISTRICT, CALIFORNIA. The mines are situated in the low hills nearly east from the little town of Independence, and were abandoned at the time of the burning of the mill by the Indians in 1804. It is understood that the mill is to be rebuilt and mining developments to be resumed. LONE PINE DISTRICT, CALIFORNIA. The mines of this district are at the little camp known as Cerro Gordo, and are principally of argentiferous galena. They were discovered some six or seven years ago, and several unsuccessful attempts made to extricate the silver lead bars from the ore, but without success ; finally the process was discovered. The programme of working is now somewhat as follows: a scorifying furnace is charged with two-thirds lead ore and one-third silver ore of a poor quality, found on the eastern slope of the hills and heavily stained with carbonate of copper ; this and the proper amount of charcoal is kept in a state of fusion for eight hours, then drawn off and cooled ; after which it is * From notes furnished by Lieutenant D, A. Lyle. EXPLORATION IIST NEVADA AND AEIZONA. 51 introduced into tbe ordinary blast furnace, with the requisite amounts of charcoal and salt. This system works admirably, and now enormous returns are secured from these very inaccessible mines. The ore averages from $50 to $05 per ton, in silver, the resulting bars from $260 to $300 per ton. The veins are wide, and the ore occurring in large lenticular-shaped masses trending to the south- ward ; so far as known the supply is inexhaustible. Notwitstanding the expensive freights, the mines are made very remunerative. The cost of transportation to Los Angeles, California, is $55 per ton ; thence to San Francisco $20 per ton ; theuce by Pacific ^fail Steamship Company to Newark, New Jersej-, at an additional expense of $25 per ton. It was found to be more prolitable on account of the higher percentage of silver from the bullion, and the increased price obtained for the lead to ship to Newark, paying the extra expense, rather than to have the refining done in San Francisco. This is only one proof out a number tliat can be cited, showing tlie advantage of large estab- lishments where skilled labor can be concentrated, by means of which a still higher and higher percentage can be extracted from rebellious ores, which is a matter of so great necessity, especially in ores of low grade. There are three furnaces smelting ores from three mines, two at Cerro (^ordo and one at Swansea, on tlie northern shore of Owen's Lake. COfiO DI«TBICT, CALIFORNIA. Tliis district, situated south and east Irom Owen's Lake, in the Coso Eange, has been worked at fitful intervals in a rude and simple manner. The quartz is gold-bearing. One of the members of the expedition foinid about seventy-five persons employed here, mostly Mexicans, who make use of the arrastra process for the extraction of the bullion. The fact that Americans have not occupied this ground may argue in favor of the poveity of the veins, which, added to the presence of the surrounding desert on three sides, make the locality anything but an inviting one. GRAXITE MOUNTAIN DISTRICT, CALIFORNIA.* 'J'he mines of this cUstiict wove discovered Liy Mr. Egau,ot' Swansea, and the district oroauized a year or so ago. Principal miiioi. — Tlic principal mines are sitnated ou the west side of Granite Mountain, a bigb abrupt peak in the Tortoise Range, and are at a great altitude. The principal mines are the Toronto, Santa Clara, and Alta. The bluffs in which they are situated are very steep and almost vertical, and to the south of Santa Clara is a trapdike, nearly vertical, cutting the strat.a. Country rock — granite, limestone, and metamorpbio slate. The ledges of mineral are near the juncture of the .strata of slate and lime. The ores are galena, associated with some carbonate of lead, with quartz; a good deal of hard limestone is iuterstratified with the galena. The Alta is above the Santa Clara, and has a mineral vein several feet wide ; hematitic iron was found in this vein ; also, perhaps, a little magnetite ; but the Santa Clara is the chief lode ; this is an immense bed of mineral, and is apparently quito rich ; the metalliferous vein is many feet thick, and, perhaps, extends through to the eastern side of the peak in a horizontal direction. Timhei: — There is little or none in the imniediaU' vicinity of the mines, but ten or fifteen miles distant along the range, plenty for fuel is found. Water. — Plenty of water is found in Darwin Canon, a very narrow anAS0 DISTRICT, CALIFORNIA.* This district lies tweuty-eight miles soiitUetist of Walker's Fass, or about oue Limdreil and seveuty-li\ e miles from Los Angeles or Visalia, and is easily accessible, o\er fair roads. Timber noue. Excellent water may be bad from wells. Formation, of easily decomposing granite, associated with metamorphic rocks, and carrying quartz and felspar seams. The quartz seems to contain mostly snlphides and chlorides. Iron .and copper pyrites are jireseut, considerable argen- tiferous "alena, and silver and lead ores. Three adits have been started and se\eral shafts, the deepest being abou t 50 feet. The main adit had been driven about 100 feet in a S. 25° E. direction, with an inclinatiou of about 8^\ I found uo seams exposed in the openings, finding speeiuiens only in the dump and in some unopened seams, whieb looked as if perhaps workable. Tlie mining was evidently of the simplest description, lliues at present entirely deserted. AMARflOSA MINES, CALIFORNIA.* Twenty miles east of tlie s.iiitli end of Death Valley, and north of Camp t'ady, near tlie old Mormou trail. Tliey are deserted, though the remains of buildings, adits, and stump-heads. &c.,show that considerable work basbeeu doue. Wood and grass entirely wanting, while the little water present is very alkaline. The adits are in granite, ruu at random in from the sides of a canon; they follow no seams, vein.s, or deposits of any kind, and noue could be found, while there was no ore discoverable iu the iliimp-piles or lU'hris. The distance fron\ th<^ base of supplies, and the desert nature ol tlie inmili y. wuiild iiinbibit aiivtbing but the very ilrliest of mines to lie worked witli any pnitit. TlMHKIl MolNTALX DISTRICT, NEVADA. Discovered iu 18U!», in Spring IVIountiiin Range, north and west from Las N'egas ranch. The ores are galena and sulphide of silver, in addition to large deposits of low-grade ba.se metal silver ores, distribnted over a large area. The high mountains are heavily wooded. All the appurtenances for mining can easily be rendered available, and the Colorado River will, in time, be the outlet for these ores. YELLOW FINE DISTRICT, NEVADA.! The mine is on the crest of a fractured anticlinal of limestone of Carboniferous age. The broken strata make with each other an angle of 90^, and have received little, if any, relative vertical displacement along the plane of fracture. Supposing, as is presumable, that the fracture has afforded a channel for the distribution of the ores, it is probable that other bodies, similar to those already found, are irregularly disposed among the cru.slied beds below, but a coutinuons lead is not to he anticipated. * From notes furnished by Mr. A. R. Marvine. t From notes furnished by Mr. G. K. Gilbert. EXPLOEATIOX Ilf NEVADA AND AKIZONA. 53 The Comet n.iue was the only oue ^•i.sited in this district, and it is understood to be the prominent n. ue. The ore .s of the smelting order, b„t, Jndging fron. genera, appearances, does not arr, a n.atr.x const.tnent. a natnra, iiux. Shonld such be the case, this mine cannot be worked with ;ofi s.nce the presen remote location will not permit of transporting to the site of the mine an ar iflei 1 fluxing agent. I qn.te agree with Mr. C^.ilbert as regards his notions of permanencv, frona a mn exper.ence among hmestone districts. Galena ores, as a rnle, are deposits in beds or .oX .at er t an as v.ns. The Yellow Pine district as organized, however, is of great extent, ad is saul to show a mnlt.plicity of locations and ores. Donbtless n.an. of thenr wil^e ntilized L^ U^ Colorado P.ver act as the channel of s.,ipn>ent, as these mountains offer favorable facilities "ch ::^'T2^r^'TTr'' ""''"'''■ ^^--^"P-*--f^^--.ehasanexposur;ofHme. o,hea.ten slopes by ernptive beds .,f volcanic roclc. There is an immense bod; of heavy pine tunber distnbuted over a great share of the higher elevations of the Spring Mounhun Kanl'. f'l.ARKE DI.STRU'J'. This district is situated partly in Nevada and partly in California. The tirst reduction tiom the held notes places Ivanpah and the mines in its immediate vicinity in Nevada, while those 2^0 the son h are :n California. This resnlt shonld not. however, be consider d a final s subject to certain sources of error. ' * The mines here are in three groups, and show entirely dissimilar charact.-ristics. The most orhrly groups, u. the vicinity of Ivanpah, occnr as thin veins in limestone, and dipping- u L n :^ T:::T\ """'' """ ^'^^'-^ ^"^■-^^•^"'^^ -^ ^tede^dtlte/and some JZ ^ ^ s.h er The pa.vstreak ,s very narrow ; the country rock greatly disturbed. ihe more southern locations were not visited. The first lot found in the vicinity of Chrke Monntam occur m granite, and are reported as wide veins of low-orade silver Stdl f^.rther south, nearly fifteen miles, large deposits of copper have been locate.l and opened to some extent. Water is scarce in the northern part, but more plentv lower down t r 'e T ::::i^T'' '"""^ '-" """^' ^-^^ ^-"---^ ^^'^-^ - ^'- ^-orado;::::^!::; h.UKi?o7aTeir"''''\'"V" ''""'"■"' '^ •^""•^" '"''^^^^- ^^^'- ~ -- ""~S and in the hand, of a well-organ:zed and powerful company ought to be nuule remunerative Contracts were in operation for building a o-stamp mill at Ivanpah ; this would render available consKiera^le ore now on the dumps, valued at about .8100 per ton. Ore at present " 1 j'ed on M,n,n labor, .».3 pei da, . Ind.an labor is utilized to a small extent. Freight from Los Anoeles is cents per po.„K,. .Vo indications of water in any of the shafts ; but a wel is being sunk ; we the m.nes and the town and on the western slope of the range. Depth, 70 feet ; u;w:^ ^Z NEW YOEK- DISTRICT, NEVADA AND CALIFORNIA. This district lies south and east from Clarke Mountain, at a distance of seventeen miles Mines extend on the western side of the range. Deposits of a cupreous sort of ore were notic prob b v ^erypoornI sdver. Galena and sulphuret ores were found on the eastern slope, wl'^'e « ood and grass plenty. Approaches to the Colorado Eiver easy. HUALAPAIS DISTRICT, ARIZONA. This was located years ago, and known as the Sacramento district. Some labor was spent with httle succes.s, until finally the parties were driven out by Indians. was spent, « ul, 54 EXPLOEATIOX IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. lu the spring of 1871 a party of prospectors re-entered the district, and discovered many new- veins, showing almost every variety of silver ores. Some little excitement followed, and very many claims were located. The general direction of the ledges is from north 10° west, to north 55° west, and the surface exposure of mineral is the largest 1 have ever seen. The veins occur in solid granite, and along edges of eruptive volcanic beds, and are wide and well defined. Many of the surface ores are rich, and especially the nari'ow veins, most of which will prove to be feeders. Both gold and silver are found, the latter predominating. Tlie veins that are to be permanent will be of the lower-grade ores, but yet of sufficient richness to admit of their being worked even in this locality. There are evidences that the water-level is to be found early, and that the ore will assume a more i^ermanent form, principally of the blue sulpburet variety. One of the handsomest veins that it has ever been my fortune to examine was the Porter mine, at that time the best developed in depth in the district, .showing a distinctly organized vein in solid granite at 5.5 feet. Mining operations can now be conducted in the northwestern part of Arizona, as the Hualapais Indian.s, occupying this section, have been subdued and are at peace. The Colorado Eivcr is near at hand as a mode of transit, and the pi'ojected Atlantic and Pacific Railroad passes midway between sevei'al mining districts that border on the river. I look upon this district as one of the most promising in Arizona, and, indeed, among many of those met in my travels. One 5-stamp, free process mill is in process of erection. sia: This district was discovered in 1871, and lies on the eastern slope of the Hualapais Mountains at a distance of thirty miles from the Needles on the Colorado River, and the railroad near the thirty-fifth parallel passes within nine miles of the principal locations. The mineral belt covers an area of nearly twenty square miles. The veins are similar to those in the Hualapais district, have the same direction, and, in fact, to a remarkable degree, these districts are counterparts No work done yet. "Wood, timber, and water are plenty. The site for a mining-camp is very desirable. This locality also will act as a center, from which much prospecting will be done further down the same range; also to the south and east, and bordering the country of tlie Apache- Mohaves, from which locality float-mineral was noticed in different places. The mines iu the vicinity of Prescott were visited by Lieutenant Lockwood, and a slight memorandum appears in his report. Those about Bradsliaw Mountains were visited l>y a party under Lieutenant Lyle, and his remarks are quoted. Later statistical information has been obtained from this locality, which is to be collated in systematic form for a subsequent report. From very many localities during the season float-mineral has been brought into camp, until one is weary with so much mineral and so many mountains. It all adds to that forcible proof, already established iu my own mind, that tin- stores of precious minerals iu our western territory are inexhaustible, and that mining in the United States is only in its infancj". MINES IN UKADSIIAW MOUNTAINS, ARIZONA.* These niiiie.s Vu; southeast from Prescott, Arizona Territory, and about forty miles distant. The piiueipal mining districts are the Tiger, Pine Grove, and Bradshaw, iu the Bradshaw Mountains, and near Bradshaw City, a mining- ciimp near the suiuniit of t!ie mountain and at an elevation of ahout 7,0(10 feet. Tliese mines arc on the main range of mountains, whose trend is nearly north and south. TIGER DI.STEICT, ARIZONA.* Tliis district was organized iu June, 1871, by the Tiger Mining Company. Principal mines : Tiger, California, Benton, Gray Eagle, Loreno, and Eclipse. There are several other ledges, but these are the principal ones. * From notes furnished by Lieutenant D. A. Lyle. EXPLOEATION i:S^ NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 55 1. 'J'iijfi: — This uiiue i^s opened liy a sbaft 90 feet deep, aud a level run 20 feet below tlie surface, aud auother one at the depth of 80 feet. Country rock : giauite aud slate. The hanging aud foot walls are, "both of them, slate iu all the miucs iu the Tiger district. Croppings bold. Ores: sulphurets of silver; assays |S00 to §1,000 per ton, first-class ore ; $60 to $80 geueral average ; width of vein, 10 feet. The vein has been traced for four or five miles. ■2. California. — Ledge 30 feet thick, and two miles long. Ores: silver; chlorides and sulphurets ; all tlie mines in the district, silver with a little gold. riNE GKOVE DISITIIICT, AEIZONA.* This district was organized iu .June, b-^70. Principal mines: Blaudiua, Jlorelaud, New Era, Shcltou, aud Hunter. Ores: gold and silver; sulphurets and chlorides. Course of veins, north and south, northeast and southwest. No work being done yet. BRADSHAAV DISTER'T, AKIZOXIA.* Date of organization unknown, bnt prior to the others. Principal mines: Del Pasco, War Eagle, and Bradshaw. Ores : gold-quartz ; course of veins, north and south aud northeast aud southwest ; country rock : granite ; foot-walls : granite aud .sometimes the hanging- walls. Timber: plenty of pine, juniper, aud some oak. Building aud mining timber is abundant on the ground and excellent in quality. TVater: scarce — not enough for milling purposes. It is found in the shafts, but it is questionable whether the supply will be sufficient for mining purposes. Mills: no mill or machinery yet in the Tiger district; a small 5-stamp gold-mill in Bradshaw district for milling rock taken from the Del PascQ mine ; water suiiply not very abundant. Cost of various articles at Bradshaw City : hay, per ton, $75 ; barley, per pound, 15 cents ; lumber, iier thousand feet, .^100 ; miners, $2.50 per day and board ; blasting-powder, per keg, $15; freight, per pound, 15 cents; cost of a ."i-stamp mill, fput up.) 110,000; cost of a 10-stamp mill, $15,000 to $20,000 ; cost of a 20-stamp mill, $25,000, liemaiks. — Prescott, Arizona Territory, is the nearest po.st-oi'fice. about forty miles distant, reached by a trail. This has a good track, but is, in mauy places, very steep. There is a wagon-road from Walnut Grove to Miunehaba Flat, live miles from Bradshaw City. A steep trail leads up from the flat to the city. The place contains about one dozen log-houses and a store. TUKKEY CKEEK DISTEICT, AEIZONA.* Mines are deserted ; tbey are all gold, I think : an old dismantled mill on Turkey Creek ; lack of water for mining pui'poses. WEAVER DISXIUCT, ARIZONA.* ' This district is situated south of Antelope Mountain and in the vicinity of Wickeuburg, Arizona Territory. Recorder, C. P. Stanton, at Vulture City, three aud oue-fourth luiles north of Wickeuburg. Principal nnnes: Great Sexton and Mason. 1. Great Scxtoti. — This mine is opened by a shaft aud tunnel. Ores: gohl-beariug qiuartz ; assays $30 per ton. Only fifty tons have been worked at Vulture null ; result not known. 2. Mamin. — Opened by a shaft ; ore worked by horse arrastras. Ores : gold and silver, with quartz ; assays $640 silver and $27 gold per ton. Country rock : quartz and granite. General eour.se of veins in district : northeast and southwest. Mills, coat of luhor, 4c. — Vulture mill, at Vulture City, is a 40-stamp mill. Mining-labor, $3 to $4 per day. Wood, at Vulture City, $10 per cord ; very scarce. Plenty of grass and water. WALNTUT GROVE DISTRICT, ARIZONA.* None of the veius are being worked now iu this district ; no water for past two seasons. Priucipal mines: Sutler, Blue Jay, Big Eebel, Josephine, Eobinson, aud Crescent Lead. 1. Sh/Ut,— Ores refractory; both gold and silver found, but principally gold ; assays $30 gold, $17 to $16 silver per ton ; no galena ; thickness of lode, 22 feet pay-ore ; course of vein, northeast and southwest. 2. Blue Jo.i/.— This mine was opened by a shaft aud tunnel, the latter 70 feet iu length, run on a 4-foot vein of gold aud silver, 3. Big Seitl — Opened by a tunnel ; gold-be.aring quartz in .slate formation ; lode 12 feet thick ; course of vein, northeast and southwest ; assays $37 gold per ton. * From notes furnished by Lieutenant D, A, Lylc, 56 EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 4. Jusyj/i i«c.— Opened by a tiiunel in years IStio and 1660; vein in slnte; 18 inches thick of jiay-rock; course of hide, north and south ; assays .§47 jier ton ; contains some free gold. .'i. Hubiiison.—OpeneA by a shaft and tunnel, the tunnel tapping the vein 80 feet below the surface; course of lodes north and south ; ores quite rich ; $90 to .§100 per ton resulting from working arrastras: free gold. It is said that a mill will .'soon be erected for -norking this mine. 6. Crescoit Lead— Ore, galena ; assays §884 .silver, and G^i per cent, of lead : ."> feet of pure metal : course of lode, northeast and southwest ; no work done yet. JUmaH: — All these mines held by miners under United States laws. The Montgomery is the principal mine, located in October, 1863 ; worked by horse-arrastras ; $250 to $300, free gold, resulting; have had no water now for two years. This was the first mine opened in Yavapais County, Arizona Territory. MARTINEZ DISTRICT, ARIZONA.* The mines in this district lie south and southwest from Camp Date Creek. Principal mines : Mayflower and Mar- tinez. 1. iIuijHomr. — Mine, gold; matrix matter, quartz; country rock, granite ; strike of lode, northeast and southwest ; opened by a .shaft sunk 40 feet; $10,000 expended on this mine; ore hauled to A'ultnre mill, twenty miles distant ; water scarce — some in Martinez Creek, two miles distant ; coarse of creek, southeast— empties into Ha.ssyampa. 2. Martinez. — This mine is said to be richer than the Mayflower ; gold-quartz, formerly worked by arrastras ; first ton paid_$l-29 gold ; not working now ; cost of mining-labor, $3 to $4 per day. Title, miner's : these two mines are liearly south of Camp Date Creek, Arizona Ten-itory, and six miles distant. SANTA MARIA DISTRICT, ARIZONA.* Boundaries unknown; the Rhinoceros is the principal mine; lode 3 feet thick, inclosed in walls nearly vertical ; nut working now. VrLTCRE MINE, ARIZONA. This mine, so noted as being famous among tlte gold mines of Arizona, could not be visited this sutumer for want of time ; however, certain iuformatiou lias been gathered, ■which will be placed in form in due time. One poiut of significance is the fact that at the uiine it is reported that there are tuore than 1,000,000 tons of ore, of low grade, that cannot be transi^orted 14 miles to the mill, for reduction, because of the cost. The dump-piles at a great atany mines all over the country are groaning with just such loads as this; certainly an argument in favor of concentrating pro- cesses, and increased and cheapened facilities for mining. In this conuectiou let me say that I believe that the production of gold from Arizona is likely to be far in advance of the same mineral from Nevada. The mines in Apache Pass, visited in 1S6S, are somewhat similar in character to the Vulture mine, and are sure to become productive upon the opening u]) of the country. :mines in the final moi'ntains, Arizona. Upon reaching Tucson it was found that considerable interest was evinced iti .some late dis- coveries in the Pinal Mountains, a pretty dangerous Indian localitj'. Notice of these will be found in Lieutenant Lockwood's report, and the following remarks of Dr. Hoffman are herewith attached : Gold. — Auriferous sand was found near the trail leadnig from the Salt River to Camp Pinal, about eight miles .south of the river. The formation was .syenitic, with occasional bowlders of granite, ilinute particles of gold were visible in the sand, and .specimens, or rather sample.s, of sand preserved. Xott. — It is believed that i)rospectors so far have been unsuccessful in utilizing these same placers. * From notes furuishod by Lieutenant D. A. Lyle. EXPLOEATION IN NEVADA AND AEIZONA. 57 Silver. — Ou iieaiiug Camp I'iual, and abont six miles noitb, we foiiud float, (iu the different washes,) consisting of stromeyerites, with their coatings of azurite and malachite. The fragments were rich, and would probably be worth $100 to $150 per ton ; but these were, apparently, choice pieces. The float was fonnd on both the northern and southern slopes of the Pinal Mountains. After we arrived at Florence, I saw members of a private prospecting party, who had tine specimens of silver ore, and which they claimed npon assay was worth $7,000 per ton. I think it utterly impossible, as the ore consisted of a cupreous and argentiferons hematite, with blotches of stromeyerite, &c. Until the Indian difticulty is settled, mining must remain practically at a stand-still in Arizona, except in the northwest part of the Territory and certain other strips that border the Colorado River. In closing this subject, which somewhat in detail has given the frame-work of what may be considered as worthy of receiving attention ou the part of Government explorations, a few sugges- tions will be ventured npon material, though not new, yet that still has a vital bearing upon the mining interests of the far West, that are slowly struggling toward their merited prominence, and upon subjects worthy the attention of our political economists and legislators. The time is fast approaching when the miuing interest is to assume a greater national promise and the one, next to agriculture, that calls for an enlightened support on the part of the Government. Experience, already gained, leads to the conclusion that it is proper, as among the first steps, to set apart certain areas from the public domain, to be segregated from the public lands and to be known as " mineral lauds," to be subject to entry, patent, and sale as such, and governed by special laws, the details of which have been so selected that the Governuient interests shall be secured, that free and equal rights to all the miners shall be obtained, so that tlie public lands, held in heritage for succeeding generations, shall not be created into a subsidy to the minei'al interest, and so that a fresh impetus shall be given to mining enterprises that are to depend upon our private capital legitimately employed for their support. From the mapping out of the geographical boundaries of various districts it appears that they often overlap each other and follow no standard regarding size, therefore early legislation may well fix these limits that surround any specially discovered mineral area, and as the longer axis of the mineral cropping is generally sensibly north and south, the liaiiting rectangle might well be established to not exceed twenty miles in this direction, and fourteen miles iu an easterly aud westerly direction, measuring from the central location. So far as segregating areas of land from the public lands and applying them to mineral purposes is concerned, it cannot result iu detriment to the Government interests, that accrue from the occupation and sale of new lands. Since the laws governing the new disposition have for their precedent the system that has worked so admirably in securing homesteads to settlers in remote sections, and stipulate similar terms, but away from the sea-board, from dose inland transportation, the interior mining districts, of which the number increases year by year, need all that surrounds them to themselves, as a part and parcel of their owu integral character. Furthermore, at ninety-nine out of every one hundred districts, agricultural land as such has no marketable value unless the mines are worked, and the remunerations from mining enterprises are not generally so great as to render it advisable for a capitalist to seek a remote corner where mines are for sale and first purchase a shaky possessory title to a mine, successively titles to water, mill, wood sites and other necessary conveniences for conducting his operations. It seems highly desirable that this idea of setting aside mineral districts as sucli should be favorably considered. The local mining laws in districts that ai-e distant from settlements are generally formed by the parties of prospectors who push out in advance, and, discovering fresh mineral, at once set out to form a district. Ordinarily these parties have no text at hand that gives them a version of 8 58 1<:XPL0RATI0N IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. the best kiio\Yii local miiiiiiy la\T.s, aud are probably unskilled iu legal or other techuicalities ; they create a system of laws which would auswer very well if the mines were of no value, but iu case of sudden developments of wealth, where chances to question the validity or extent of a claim aie involved, the loose description from the records affords one of the arguments in favor of litigation. Therefore, it seems not unwise to frame a set of local mining laws that shall be generally acceptable to all the interests involved, that branch oat into new and un])rospected regions, and which shall conform to the United States laws already enacted and which shall be acces.sible to all. The nearest appioach to such a system was found in the set of by-laws adopted to control the Blind Mountain district, that were prepared by an able mining lawyei- in San Francisco, whose long experience entitles him to consideration. They would be quoted here only that the space does not permit. On the part of Congress, the most earnest solicitude should be evinced to so amend the general mining law, from time to time, as to make it conform to the strict sense of needs that are requisite to the various mining sections, to be governed by experience and knowledge gathered from time to time from reliable sources. It is believed that tlie bill now before the mining committee in Congress has stipulations defining, -with a greater accuracy and with a more liberal tone, the limits and integral character of a " vein, lode, ledge, or deposit," and embraces details favorable to a more speedy method of obtaining a secure title to mineral property. By persons whose experience has led them to take a comprehensive view of the wants of the mineral interest in our western territory, and to the position that the Government sliould assume as the guardian of this trust, the necessity and desirability of a national school of mines has already been urged. For me to concur would be only to reiterate ideas already advanced; presum- ing, theu, upon the use and practicability, it only remains to mark the place, and the single sugges- tion offered is, that it should be at Washington. Besides, it may be urged as a national economy that the proceeds available from tlie sale of mineral lands should be devoted to the maintenance of such an institution. One of the urgent wauts felt in the promotion of our mining industry is that of increased and cheapened inlandlransportation. Eiver transportation tipou our western coast is, to a great extent, a failure, as beyond the Columbia and Colorado Elvers, that furnish somewhat irregular avenues of connection with the interior, no streams of considerable magnitude exist; river transportation, even in this very American age, lose^ its great power when pitted against railroads, as instanced at many localities in the valley of the Mississippi, Avhcre railroads supersede the river modes of transportation because of speed and time. Therefore, it is railroads that the mining interiors of the western coast need, and it is not believed that Congress should, at this season, be so sparing of its land-grants to aid private capital iu the prosecution of these schemes, since, having already given over to privfite corporations the better share of the lands that yet renuiin, there is relatively but little danger of diminishing the l)rospective revenue of the countiy by withholding from corporations, devoted to local interests only, grants of the very inferior land that in the majority of instances will inclose these lines of road. Narrow-gauge roads, that have met with so much favor upon the Continent, and which at present are being slowly introduced in the United States, recommend themselves at once to any one desirous of seeing tliis charactei' of communication brought, as speedily as possible, to the doors of our mineral wealtli. In the new areas of silver-bearing veins that arc becoming so numerous, it requires but litth' discrimination to show that the majority of the ores are complex in their character, and that the present known melhods of reduction give only an ai)proximate percentage of their silver-bearing EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 59 Aiilue; tlit'iel'uie, tUe iiupioveiiieuts that arc I'roiu time (o time suggo.-sted in tlie methods that may be adopted for the extractiou of a higlier percentage of bidliou, arc worthy of attention. Thns it is that, on account of greater facilities of talent and machinery, the refinery at Newark is iu advance of that at San Francisco, and, iu turn, that of Swansea collects the best-known methods of reduc- tion ; but cannot the skill and knowledge that is aggregated at these centers be diffused again, so that we can bring to little mining camps in the interior, practical results that shall enable them to resume operation upou one that is worth twenty dollars per ton, which before must remain un- touched, because impossible to obtain from it more thau fifteen? A subject worthy of uote, since for many years the shipment of the base-metal ores will be made to these reduction centers, is that of concentration of ores by the specific gravity or eutirely mechanical process. Several attempts at this have beeu made, but with, so far, but little success. The mechanical appliances are imperfect, but are susceptible to that modification that shall l>rove the availability of the method. The introduction of cheapened labor, and especially in remote districts, a subject so sensibly urged by Mr. R. W. Raymond, United States Commissiouer of Mining Statistics, merits favorable consideration. Let this labor come from whatever quarter of the globe it may, let it be Asiatic, African, European, or American, there should be no restriction to free trade in this particular when the necessities of a national interest require it for its development. I am led to believe that one thing that hinders greatly the embarking of capital iu uew localities is the want of reliable information as to the presence and position of the mineral-bearing ores. The bullion product of the country, since statistics have beeu collected, has beeu found to vai-y withiu limits never exceeding uinety millious of dollars per annum; after the exhaustion of the placer-mines of California, this product sensibly decreased, until a reaction iu its favor was experi- enced from the early results furnished by the Comstock lode. Much prospecting has beeu done since that time and a great fnauy mineral districts located ; the common experience proves these to be principally of silver. The sizes and grades of the districts are varied. They are all possessed of a greater or less amount of the precious metals, and iu the prosperous future are to contribute to our national wealth and necessities, so that those who live to see the close of the present century may not be surprised at an annual product of bullion as large as one hundred and fifty millions, !io more than they may be at the fact of the present ore in sight in AVashoe — a mine which by many was not long- since thought to be practically exhausted — of a supposed value of fifteen millious of dollars; all of this, provided enlightened legislation will study and assist the want of legitimate mineral enterprises. ' Siher ore occurs iu connection with limestone, granite, the older volcanic rocks, as propylite, andesite, rhyolite, &c., and ipiartzite; the instances of the latter are, however, very rare, as among the former very numerous, although the deposits are wanting in determinate characteristics. From the latest and most reliable geological contributions to our knowledge as to the epoch of formation of the silver-bearing veins, this period is fast being narrowed down to a much more recent geologic age than was formerly supposed. The map now presented eujbraces in preliminary form some of the most general topographical information, the location of routes pursued, the positions of mining camps, &c. A rough transcript from most of the topographical notes of the season is given. The final map, on a scale of one inch to six miles, will deliueate the topography in detail, and will be constructed with great care. Profiles of the more important north and south lines are to be produced. [NoTK. — IiiCoriii.iticin. where tiinilsbecl by meiiibers of the expedition, is printed in small type.T 60 EXPLOKATIOX IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. • Coutour iii!ii)s oi' two miuiug districts are in process of preparatiou. A skeleton map, sLowiug the areas occupied by tlic Indian tribes and their reservations, will be furnished for the use of the Indian Bureau. A statistical map, showing relative amounts of arable, mineral, and desei't sections, will receive attention. A skeleton map embracing the perimeter lines of the great interior and exterior basins of this region is to be projected. CONCLUSION. Although the day of the path-linder has sensibly ended in this country, still it is expected that among the results of an exploration there shoidd be something new. In summing up the effort will be made to lay the groundwork of the new discoveries, if such they may be termed, the bearing that these may have on further and more extended explorations, and estimates for their continuance. As a subject of primal importance, the mapping out of the mining districts already discovered, locating their positions, areas, directions of lodes, &c., determining their place as links in the great chain of mineral deposition throughout the entire Cordillera system, and as presenting limits to the field for search for the precious minerals, the result fully sustains the most sanguine anticipa- tions, proving the existence of mineral districts over large areas, and also that the field for pros- pecting has only commenced, although it may have progressed somewhat in advance of the interior development of new sections of country. The topographical features of the great Colorado plateau have been developed along that portion of its perimeter from the vicinity of Saint George, in Utah, to the White Mountains rising out of it, near the border line between Arizona and New Mexico. Geological data along new ground in that specially rich field among the lower cailons of the Colorado Lave been gathered. The limits, character, and relations of a number of inclosed and entirely interior basins in Nevada and .Southeastern California liave been determined. A further exploration of the Colorado has finally determined the absolute head of navigation, the limit beyond which a party of examination will not be likely to ascend the river, and that, although navigation, subject to many diCdculties, uuiy be carried somewhat higher than had been expected, still the wants of the interior country will not denuuid this above a certain specified point. It has been ascertained that a railroad can cross the Colorado at the mouth of the Virgin liiver and be carried along easy grades into Arizona ; also, tliat the Colorado can be crossed by a north and south line near the foot of the Grand Canon, and that this route may at once be made available for mails to the iioitherii part of Arizona, and for the inland passage of troops. The almost incredible vertical height of the walls of the Grand Canon has been verified, as also the crater character of the San Francisco Mountains. Auriferous sand and gravel has been noted at various points on the Colorado and along the tributaries from the plateaus, and at other localities, though the rumor of rich and extensive placer deposits is discredited. The usual number of rumors of diamonds and precious stones were heard, but it is believed I hat their position must now be limited to quite inaccessible portions that have not yet been visited. ]\ruch light bas been thrown upon the limits of the great interior basins and also that of the Colorado. These are a few of the subjects, sensibly new, that suggest themselves ; from continued investigations of a similar nature may be expected novel and unique information upon the same and allied subjects. The first grand necessity lies in the fact that the country ought to be more thoroughly mapped, both for military and civil purposes. In order to carry out this mapping project, parties in force must repair to this field, and they ought to be liberally and systematically EXPLOEATION IN NEVADA AND AKIZONA. 61 fitted out; aad hence .schemes of exploratiou should foUow a settled plan and form a si)ecial part and parcel of the anuual estimates submitted to Congress. lu this connection, there is herewith submitted for the action of the Department the basis of a plan for the surveys and explorations necessary to a complete reconstruction of the engineer map of the "Western Territories, referring more especially to areas west of the one hundredth meridian of longitude. From a careful study of this map it appears that there are fully 175,000 square miles of territory unexamined instrumentally, located sensibly as follows : In Southern and Southeastern California, 25,000 square miles; in Southeastern, Eastern, Northwestern, and Western Arizona, 18,000 square miles; iu Southwestern and Northern New Mexico, 15,000 s.v xsu Auizoxa, Beiidczrous Camp near Iinh'j)iii(TriiiT. fnlifoniiii, Anfiiist^, 1871. [Spcdal rielil Oi'ilers Xo. IS.) I. Lieuteuaut D. W. Liickwood, Corps of Engineers, having reported at tliese iK^adijiiartcrs, will assume entire and permanent charge of main party No. 2 of tlie expedition, for general instructions conforming to tlie spirit of ])aragrapli :i JSpecial Orders No. 10'.), Adjutant General's Office, Irtth of Mardi, 1871, and tlie letter of the Chief of Engineers of March 23, 1871. lie will conduct this main line of the explorations along routes that will bo from tinie to time designated to him, and while en roule between rendezvous camps he will conduct his party precisely as if it were a separate expedition. Besides his executive duties, he will take personal charge of sextant astrouoniical work, more particularly with a view to correct latitude stations. Upon reaching Washington at the termination of the tield labors of the explorations of this season, lie will prepare at once a preliminary report of operation.s, to be followed as soon as practicalile by a detailed report, accompanied by sub-reports of certain civilian assistants. GEO. M. WHEELEK, FivM LifiilciKiiil, CdQii of Kiitfiiwcrf!, ComiiiuiKling ErpcdilUin. The time from xiugust 2 to August 10 was employed in refitting, &c., and on the latter date the party left camp to proceed to Htump Springs, designated as the next point of rendezvous. Your expedition haviug been in the field for several months at the time of reporting for duty, J found, upon assuming comniaud of main party No. 2, the special oi'ganizatiou for field-work complete, and would recomnu'nd the iilan adopted by you as one particularly suited to the character of the country traversed, and the nature of the operations conducted under your charge during the past sea.sou. The personnel of the party was changed, from time to time, bat was always kept up in such a manner as to enable me to apply my.self more particularly to duties of an administrative character and to daily astronomical work. The departments of geology, mineralogy, and natural history were represented throughout the season, and the topographical department nearly all the time was in c'liarge of Chief Topog- rapher Louis Nell, who merits my full coiameudatiou for the skill and energy he displayed. The party was in the field under iny charge from August 2 to December 4, 1871, and during that time traveled a distance of one thousand two hundred and eighty-nine miles en route from Cam]) EXPLORATIOX IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 63 ludepeiuleiice, Calitbruia, to Tucson, Arizoiui Territory, the geueral course beiug as follo^vs: Down Owen's River Valley to Desert Wells; tbenee east to the Cottonwoods via the Amargosa River ; from the Cottonwoods to Saint George, on the old Salt Lake road; theuce south down the Grand Wash to the Ute crossing on the Colorado River. The passage of the river having been effected with the assistance of the boat parties, the Colorado plateau was followed to Truxtou Springs, Arizona Territory. Leaving this point, Prescott wasreached via Young's Spring and Bill Williams's Mountain, passing around its northern slope. From here the route to Tucson was via Camp Verde and Sunset Crossing on the Colorado Chiqnito to Camp Apache ; thence via old Camp Pinal to the place mentioned. The maiu object of the expedition, as iudicated in the letter of instructions from the Chief of Engineers, dated Engineer Office, Washington, D. C, March 23, 1871, being the obtaining of correct topographical knowledge of the area traversed, and its embodiment iu an accurate map, the principal labors were in carrying out this requirement. The plan adopted was the same as in ISO!), the different points along the route beiug located by triaugulation with a Cassella theodolite, and the length of base liae determined by odometer measurements. The positions of camps, as determined by this method, were corrected by astronomical observa- tions, the instruments used being sextant 2831 byTroughton and Simms, and mean solar chronom- eters. Whenever circumstances would permit of it, equal altitudes of the sun were taken for time, and circuinmeridian altitudes of the same body for latitude. Generally, however, as the camps along tiie route were only for one night, east and west stars were taken for time and Polaris for latitude. By comparison of the results thus obtained with those determined at the main astrono- mical stations, where a transit and zenith iustrument combined was used, the probable error of latitude, at least, can be reduced to a very small limit. With regard to the topograpbical features of the area passed over, the changes were so frequent and so complete that no general description will suflice for the whole, and I therefore shall present this subject more in detail with regard to locality than would otherwise be necessary. Some idea, however, of the change in character of topographical features along the route traveled may be formed when the nature of the transition from the desert valleys and lofty, rugged, volcanic moun- tains of Southern (California to the elevated plateau bordering the Coloiado River, and generally Northern Arizona, is fully understood. On the 10th of August the party left Independence and followed Owen's River Valley to its southern extremity. Desert Springs was the most southern point reached on the march to the ren- dezvous cainp at Cottonwood Springs, Nevada; thence the line of travel was nearly due east, and most of the time followed the wagon-trail from Visalia, California, to the Ivanjiah mines. This road crosses several ranges of mountains and is only available for wagons lightly loadearty, this point being selected prior to theSth proximo, with a view to a good camp, if possible, as well as a favor.able outlet toward the south. Uxion the arrival of the boat party at this point, immediate informa- tion will be sent to the land iJarties, who will at once make a hurried march for the river, where they will be crossed, and continue on at once to Peacock Springs. A small party of observation will remain af this point, and the boat liarty will continue the ascent of the river, reaching the canon at the mouth of the Diamond River, if possible, to which point a party of relief and observation will be sent from Peacock Springs to t.ake the party to camp. The time necessary for this jiarty to wait at the mouth of the Diamond River cannot be stated until at the crossing of the river. In case the boat party cannot reach the .above-mentioned point they will fallback upon the small party of obser- vation at tbe crossing, which, in consequence, must be re- enforced by riding and pack animals from Peacock Springs, after the main expedition shall have reached this point. Lieutenant Lockwood is hereby placed in command of all the land parties, and Lieutenant Lyle in executive charge of main ]>arty No. 1, while both parties are together, and in entire and absolute charge of this party when it shall be separate. GEO. M. WHEELER, Firxt Liciilciiaiit, Corps of Engineers, Commanding Ej'peclHion . Side parties were sent to Charleston Peak and Mormon AVell. The march was resumed on the 15th of September, and on the 20tli the Muddy Eiver was reached, the march across the Vegas desert, forty-six miles long, having been made without accident. From here a side i^arty was sent off via Clover Valley and Shoal Creek, to rejoin the expedition at Saint George. The wagon was sent across the desert to the same place via the old Salt Lake road, and the main parties followed up the Virgin Eiver, reaching Saint George the 26th of September. The country in the neighborhood of the Muddy Eiver having been examined in 18G9, and a repoit with regard to it made by yourself, I shall confine myself, concerning this locality, to speak simply of the changes that have taken place since then. In 18G9 the two settlements of Saint Joe and Saint Thomas were thriving towns, as Mormon industry is understood, while West Point, only just settled, bade fair, in time, to equal them in agricultural benefits and population. These settlements are now all deserted by theLr former inhabi- tants, they having left owing to the establishment of the fact that the places mentioned were in y 66 EXPLOEATIOX IN 2s^EVADA AXD ARIZONA. tbe State of Xevada. I was iiiforinecl tbat the people wlio formerly lived here are now settled some where in Arizona, about two hundred miles to the east of Saint George. The improvements at Saint Joe and at Saiut Thomas have been sold to (so called) Gentiles, and will in time constitute valuable properties as the mineral resources of the adjaceut country are opened up and markets for the products thus furnished. West Poiut has been left to the Indians, who show their apprecia- tion of this act of compulsory generosity ou the ]iart of the ]\roriiions by increased impudence (were that possible) to ]>eople passing near them. This valley is one that, especially in the upper part, is capable of grazing a large amount of stock ; all the caBons and washes leading down to the river are, as a general thing, heavily grassed, while the only water in the country around beiug that in the river, herding would be a simple matter. The Virgin Mountains limit the valley of the river of that name to the east, and extend in an almost unbroken chain to within fifteen miles of Saiut George, where the river breaks through them ; in some parts these mountains are heavily wooded. To the west of the river a high mesa extends to the irregular, broken mountains lying east of the Mormon range. This mesa is cut up here and there by washes which carry the surface-waters to the Virgin Ei\'er ; formerly it was the scene of much sntiering on the part of emigrants en route to Southern California, as the only water ever found is that which has collected in tanks and these drj- up during the summer. Two roads cross it; one direct from Saint George, striking the Muddy near the old California crossing, and one which follows the river down to the Virgin Hill, and thence over to Saiut Joe. Tliis hill is prac- tically impassable since the Mormons have abandoned the Muddy settlements, on account of the rain having washed off all the earth, leaving only the bare strata of rocks, which terminate in an abrupt staircase formation, extremely difficult even for loose animals. Lieutenant Lyle was sent from Saint Thomas eastward over the Virgin Eange of mountains, to find a suitaljle place for a temporary camp near the river, where the main parties might rendez- vous until your arrival up the river at the poiut of crossing. A point near Pah-Koon Springs was selected by him as answering the above requirement. The camp at Saint George was broken on the morning of October 1, and leaving Lieutenant Lyle in charge, I pushed forward to the river with a small party to select a poiut at which tbe crossing should be made. The route taken was down the Grand "Wash, or near it ; the Mormons had broken a sort of wagon-trail at some time iu the past down this wash or caiion, and this was fol- lowed so far as practicable. I had expected, from previous information, to find a high range of mountains designated as the Buckskin Itauge, lying to the east of the Virgin Mountains, and limiting the area drained by the Grand Wash in that direction ; instead, however, only an elevated mesa was seen, which near the river assumed a steep and rugged character, occasioned bj' the con- stant wash, in past ages, of waters seeking a lower level in the bed of the Colorado. For twenty miles north of the river the western edge of this mesa is nearly vertical, and curiously marked with bands of different colors, showing the stratification. To the north this mesa joins a vast wooded plateau, which extends to what is called Hurricane Valley, on the Virgin River, forty miles above Saint George. Your opportune arrival with your boats the morning after I reached the river, rendered it unnecessary for the train to remain any length of time at Pah-Koon Springs, and on the morning of October Gth everything was across the river and ready to proceed toTruxton Springs. The freight was ferried over on the evening of the 5tli, requiring only four hours, and the animals swam the stream the next morning. One horse had a leg broken among the rocks ; otherwise there was no accident of any kind. Traxton Springs were reached ou the evening of October 10th, where the detachment of C troop, Tliird Cavalry, detailed as escort, had already arrived. EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. (37 The first marcli out from tbe river was to Tin-ua-kali Spriugs, near the foot of what is knowu as the Colorado Plateau. The trail to it leads up a broad wash, the formation continuing for some plied with game, and they all appeared capable of taking care of themselves. They did not allow the squaws to come iu sight at all. No Indians were seen again until reaching Camp ^'erde, although tliroughout Chino and Agua Fria Valley they fre(pu'ntly commit depredations. The ranchmen always take their riHes with them ; and it is a common occurrence for herders to be picked off, or men shot, while at work in the fields. The Apache-Mohaves roam throngii this region, and their country extends east to the mountains beyond the Verde Elver. At the post of that name several hundred were being fed. Quite a large number were found at Beaver Creek, and although then en route to the post to get their five days' allowance, showed great insolence to a small advanced guard that preceded the party. I have since learned that these Indians have all left the reservation. At Camp Apache nearly twelve hundred were being fed, and seemed peaceable and well con- tented. Last May, however, they drove off the herds, and for a long time remained away from the post. These Indians belong to the Coyotero, or White Mountain Apache tribe, and have committed many depredations in this country, and even as far south as the roads leading ont from Tucson. The next tribe to the south are the Einal Apaches, who live in the country about the Pinal Mountains. Xoue of them were seen ; they are very wild and warlike, refusing to go upon reserva- tions or have any communication whatever with white men. Their country is very rough, and scouting parties encounter great difficulties iu hunting them. The general character of the Apache Indians is too well understood to require any further mention from me than that my experience in their country leads me to conclude that their blood- thirsty nature has not been overdrawn. In time, perhaps, civilizing influences might render them less wild and barbarous than they now are; but this change I do not consider as likely to happen except iu the case of those taken at an early age from their own people. In conclusion, I would express my indebtedness to the different assistants who were with me for their co-operation and valuable aid in bringing the labors of the season to so successful a termination. Eespectfully submitted. DANIEL W. LOCK^VOOD, First Lieutenant of Engineers. Lieutenant Geo. M. Wheelee, Corjhs of 3n(iinecr.s. APPENDIX B. Report of Second Lieutenant D. A. Lylc, Second United States Artillery. Ukited States Engineer Ofpice, Explorations in Nevada and Arizona, WasJiingfon, I). C, March 5, 1872. Sir : In compliance with your letter of instructions, dated February 15, 1872, I have the honor to submit the following preliminary report : EXPLOEATION IN NEVADA AND AEIZONA. 77 I assumed .conimaud ut' the escort, a detachment of twenty-live meu from Troop I, Third United States Cavalry, and also of main party No. 2 of the expedition, by virtue of the foll(jwing orders : Special Field Orders ) United (Staies Engineer Oi fice, No. in.— Extract. ^ Explokations in Nevada .usd Arizona, Camp near Belmniit, Xivadn, June 23, 1871. I. Second Lieiiteuaut D. A. Lylc, Second United States Artillery, having reported in obedience to paragraph I, Special Orders No. 98, Headquarters Military Division of the Pacific, is hereby jilaced in command of the escort, and, nntil the arrival of First Lientenant D. W. Lockwood, Corps of Engineers, in charge of party No. 2 of the exploration. GEO. M. WHEELER, First Licidiiiaiit, Untied Stales Engineers, CommandiiKj Expedition. Special Field Orders \ United State.s Engineer Ofitce, No. KJ. S Explorations in Nevada and Arizona, Itendezrons Camp near Belmont, Xerada, Jnly 2, 1871. Main party No. 2 of the exploration, nnder conmiand of Second Lientenant D. A. Lylc, Second United Stales Artillery, will proceed at daylight to-morrow (Monday) morning, en ronle to Camp Independence, California, on the trnnli-line selected from this point to the rendezvous camp at the above-named station. He will be fnrnished with a copy of the letter of instructions from the Chief of Engineers of tlic 2?d of March, 1871, and will, in all respects, adhere thereto, conducting his party in the same manner as if it were a seiiarate expedition. Fifteen days will be allowed to reacli Camp Independence, and en route .special attention mnst be given to the examinations in the contiguous mining districts. He will be called npon for a report of his trip. By command of Lieutenant Wheeler. D. A. LYLE, Seeond Lieutenant, Second Jrtillern, Adjutant of lite Expedition. Accordingly, on the morning of the 3d of July, I left the rendezx'ous camp in Meadow Creek Canon, north of Belmont, Nevada, and set out npou the ninrcli FEOM BELMONT, NEVADA, TO CAJIP INDEPExNDENCE, CALIFORNIA. Following down Meadow Creek Canon for several miles we struck the stage-road from Austin to Belmont; thence crossing the Toquima Eange and Ralston Valley, in a southwesterly direction, we encamped at Cedar Springs (Baxter's Station) on west side of valley, having marched thirty and a (piarter miles. Here we found plenty of wood and good water, but very little grass. Ealston Valley is from eight to twelve miles wide, a sandy, gravelly, stony desert, with no vegetation except wild sage. At this point a wagon-road comes in from the southeast from Eeveille. The next day made a short march of eleven miles to Indian Springs. (San Antonio,) in Big Smoky Valley. Ilcre we found plenty of water, slightly brackish, little grass, and no wood except sage-brush. The route to this point was npon a wagon-road, from Belmont to San Antonio and Fish Lake Valley. The road from Cedar Springs lies over a low range, through an excellent pass, bordered with plenty of nut-pine and cedar, but no grass or water. There are two quartz-inills at this point, both lying idle; some arable laud, but natural facilities for irrigation are limited. If irrigated the soil would be productive. Jack rabl)its and mountain quail the only game seen. My orders being discretionary with regard to everything except time and general direction of line, I concluded to detach at this point a small topographical party, consisting of Acting Assistant Surgeon W. J. Hoflnian, United States Army, in charge, one to])ographer, two civilian assistants, with a packer, guide, and soldier, to visit San Antonio mining district, and follow down the west .side of the San Antonio Range, pushing their investigations to the east and southeast, and passing to the east of Lone Mountains to Jloutezuma; then crossing the mountains, after visiting the 78 EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. Moutezuiua mines and entering Clayton Valley, this party was to join the main party at Silver Peak, while myself with the latter party crossed the Smoky Valley Desert to the west and southwest of Lone Mountains, via Desert Wells, where, instead of crossing the low summit of the Toyabe Range to the westward into Fish Lake Valley, as previously intended, we would move southeasterly into Clayton Valley to Silver Peak, iu order to facilitate the junction of the detaclied side party, presuming that the topograpliical and physical results would be more fertile on this line than they could possibly be Ijy crossing directly into Fish Lake Valley to the north of Red Mountains. This presumption was fully sustained by subsecpient results. Ou the oth the maiii party crossed this desert, reaching Desert Wells at 5 ji. m., having made thirty-two miles, very hot and dusty, both men and animals suffering severely from thirst, the result of drinking brackish water at Indian Springs. Here we found three springs filled with slimy mud, from which we could get no water. About half a mile to the northeast was a large hole con- taining a few gallons of water. We concluded to bivouac here for a few hours to rest and feed the animals preparatorj- to making a nigLt march to Silver Peak, twenty-five miles distant. By dint of considerable digging, at which we all took turns, we procured enough water to^supply our wants and those of the animals partiallj', though it was very brackish and alkaline. The country traversed this day was a sandy desert, covered with wild sage, and toward the lower end of the valley interspersed with hard, white alkali flats, destitute of vegetation. Jack rabbits, lizards, and beetles were the only specimens of animated nature seen. Owing to the cloudi- ness of the weather and the darkness it was not until 2 o'clock a. m. that we resumed our march to the southeast, and skirting for several miles an alkali lake, (dry,) some twelve miles long and fi'om one to six miles wide, we passed up a rocky wash and crossed a low ridge or divide connecting Red Mountain Range with Lone Mountains. This ridge was comiiosed of volcanic remains — lava flows, extinct volcanoes, volcanic ashes, scoria, and basalt; native sulphur and alum being also met with. Entering Clayton Valley we passed a very perfect volcanic cone of recent date, but now extiuct, and striking a salt marsh, twelve to fifteen miles long and from four to eight miles wide. Me arrived at Silver Peak. Here is a cluster of saline springs, mostly warm, and of various degrees of satura- tion, one of which was constantly boiling; the waters were impregnated with salt, lime, borax, and sulphur. Another very remarkable spring was one out in the salt mar.sh about half a mile, which was nearly fresh, and the water quite cold. The white surface of this marsh was broken by two or three rocky huftcs, upon which trilobites and other fossils were found ; toward the lower part of the Aalley were shifting sand-hills. Here we remained till the Stli of July, recuperating ourselves and animals, awaiting the arrival of Dr. Hoffman and party. This interval was devoted to investigations of a geographical, geologi- cal, and mineralogical nature. Astronomical and meteorological observations were also made. I vi-sited the mines in the Silver Peak and Red Mountain mining districts, which are owned by the Silver Peak and Red Mountain Gold and Silver Mining Company, who have a 30 stamp gold-mill at this point. For the details regarding these mines 1 would respectfully invite your attention to my report on "Mines and mining districts,"' ap[)eiided and marked A. Clayton Valley is a complete interior basin, being surrounded on all sides by mountains. It is about eighteen or twenty miles long, and from eight to fifteen miles wide, the longer axis being nearly north and south. There is plenty of grass isi the vicinity of the springs, but poor in quality, and no wood nearer than the summit of the main ridge, about ten miles from the mill. Upon taking a cursory view of the topographical features of the country to the south and south- east from a peak near our camp, and foreseeing that the farther my line of topography extended EXPLOEATIOX IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 79 in that direction, toward what was kuowu as the "head of the Auiargosa," the positiou of which point was very indefiuite and mythical, the greater would be the probability of my forniiug a junc- tion with your line, without serious difficulty on my outward march from Gamp Independence to meet you subsequent to this time. Dr. Hoffman and party having arrived on the 8th, the next day I ordered him witli the same party to cross Clayton Valley in a southeasterly direction, cross the Montezuma Eauge into Alida Yalley, moving south and southeasterly down that valley to Gold Mountain, visiting the mines there, and swing around the Palmetto Mountains to the westward, examining those mines, and thence to rejoin me in Fish Lake Valley. I directed the chief topographer, Mr. Nell, to make a very careful survey of the country thus traversed, to fix as many points as possible to the south and southeast of Gold Mountain, and to collect every item of topographical and geographical information he could obtain in regard to that terra Incognita. This he did with gre.at ability and judgment, and to my entire satisfaction. Tlie knowledge thus obtained was afterward of the greatest service. On the 10th we crossed the Red Mountain Range to the north of Red Mountain and Silver Peak, the two most noted peaks of this range, and camped at Red jMountain Spring, near the foot of the former peak, on the western slope, having made a short march of eleven and three-fourths miles. From this point myself and a small party made the ascent of those peaks and took barome- trical observations. The assistant topographer, Mr. Klett, also toolc advantage of this to gain an extended view of the country. The next day the party moved to near Fish Lake, a small body of tepid water, a few rods in extent, in Fish Lake Valley, a distance of nineteen miles. There is pretty good grazing- in the Red Mountain Range, and plenty of timber for fuel on the mountain ridge and western foot-hills. Abundance of excellent water is found at three points on the western slope, at Red Mountain, Mamie, and Cave Springs. It is said that Mamie Spring has only been running about two years. Red Mountain is of volcanic origin, as is also Silver Peak. These two peaks are about three miles apart and joined by a sharp, comb like ridge. The western foot-hills are of sedimentary origin. From Fish Lake Valley to Camp Independence there is nothing new of topographical impor- tance, as our roirte lay sensibly along an area surveyed by Professor "Whitney in his able geological survey of the State of California. At Fish Lake Dr. Hoffman and party joined, returning from Gold Mountain. His report is appended, marked C, and he was immediately detached to make a side trip to the northward via Columbus, thence, crossing the White Mountains to McBride's ranch, he was to follow down Owen's River and valley to the rendezvous camp at Camp Independence examining the mines and mining districts on his route. His report of this trip is appended hereto, marked 1). There are several ranches in Fish Lake \'alley; hay, barley, oats, and potatoes being pro- duced in abundance. Irrigation is necessary. Near the south end of the valley is Piper's ranch, the most important one, perhaps, in the valley, several hundred acres being under cultivation, and irrigated by the waters of Cottonwood Creek. Quite a large area could be rendered produc- tive by a judicious use of the water from small creeks issuing from the White Mountains, which are soon lost in the saud. A good wagon-road connects Piper's ranch with Palmetto, and another with Deep Spring Valley. From Fish Lake we marched to Piper's ranch, twenty-two miles, thence crossing a low range through a good pass, and passed down the eastern side of Deep Spring Valley, a small interior 80 EXPLOEATIOX IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. basin aliout ten miles long by four or live miles wide, inclosed by two spurs of the White Mountains, which fork at the upper end of the valley and join again at the lower end, producing this unique basin. Three small lakes, a salt marsh, and several springs, some of the latter being sulphur springs, are situated at the southern extremity of the valley. Wyoming Creek rises in the mountains to the northwest and running southeast for four or five miles sinks in the sand. Plenty of water and good grass at lower extremity of this valley, but no wood. The remainder of the valley is covered with sagebrush, growing in a deep, sandy soil. From Deep Spring we crossed the AVhite Mountains into Owen's Kiver Valley through a very good natural pass, but which, at two points, is impracticable for wagons. A wagon-road is being constructed from Owen's River up the western slope, which will descend into Deep Spring Valley by a canon to the north of the one by which we ascended. Plenty of wood lor fuel on and near the summit. Distance to Owen's River about twenty-two miles. We crossed the river at a ford above and near Big Pine Creek, which is a very good one when the river is not too high. There are several ranches here on Big Pine Creek, but a great deal more laud could be irrigated and reclaimed, as the supply of water in this creek is exceedingly abundant and excellent, and has a good deal of fall. At this point I left my train to follow me on next day, and pushed forward to Camp Indepen- dence, about twenty-eight miles distant, where it also arrived the 18th, at 10.30 a. m. Here I immediately established an astronomical and meteorological station, and placed Mr. Austin, the astronomer, in charge. Mr. A. R. Marviue reporting here tome, was assigned as assistant to Mr. Austin, as previously directed by you. FROM CAMP INDEPENDENCE TO GOLD ]\IOUNTAIN AND RETURN. Immediately upon my arrival at Camp Independence I fitted out a small party of picked men and carefully selected animals, to run a reconnaissance line to what was known as the head of the Amargosa. The object of this line was to determine whether or not a passage could be found directly to the eastward over the sterile deserts and mountains intervening between the Amargosa and Owen's Rivers that was practicable for a large train of men and animals ; to procure data for con- structing an accurate topographical map of that unknown area; to make collections in natural history, mineralogy, and geology; and, lastly, to form a junction, if possible, with yonr line, and, if a practicable route was discovered, to lead your large train to our rendezvous camp in Owen's River Valley. This party consisted of one topographer, two ciNllian assistants, two soldiers, a guide, a packer, an Indian, and myself, with four pack-mules. Before starting I could get no definite information concerning the country to be traversed, and from every quarter received the most discouraging accounts of the dangers attending such a trip through a country entirely destitute of water, as far as known, after crossing the Inyo Range. Not deterred by these unfavorable reports, I was enabled to take the field again within three days after my arrival, with my animals re-shod, and the party siip])lied with forage and rations. I would heri' state that 1 am deeply indebted to Major H. C. Egbert, caiitain Twelfth Infantry, commanding post of Camp Independence, and to Lieutenant W. E. Dove, Twelfth Infantry, acting assistant quartermaster at that post, for their prompt and energetic co operation, by placing all the resources of the post at my di-sjiosal, and lending me their earnest assistance. About noon, July 2] , we left camp, and passing through the town of Independence, crossed Owen's River at Bend City, (now deserted,) and ascended the monntains through Mazourka Canon. Fifteen miles up we camped at an excellent spring; gi-ass and wood jilenty. Next day crossed EXPLORATION IN NEt^ADA AND ARIZONA. 81 the range and camped in a deep, rugged canon filled with blocks of granite, and very narrow, which we called Wheeler's Caiion. Here there was plenty of wood and water, but very little grass. Below us, and to the southward, lay Salinas Valley, a small interior basin, about twelve miles long, and from five to eight miles wide, containing salt-beds near its southern extremity. Mr. Hahn, the guide, now requested us to remain in camp one day while he would go in advance and see if there was enough water for the party at Grape-Yiue Spring, which, he said, was about thirty- five or, perhaps, forty miles distant. He said he knew the route, and was positive we could reach that point in one day's march ; but when questioned in regard to the locality of the pass in the opi)osite range, he gave evasive answers, nor could he give any definite information in regard to the character of the country to be traversed. From several previous interviews I had held with him in regard to this country, I had grave doubts as to whether he knew the country or not; these doubts were now painfnlly confirmed. Mr. Hahn asserted positively that he could go to Grape-Vine and return the same night by 10 p. m. I concluded to remain in camp one day and let him go in advance, directing him to be back by 2 a. m. the morning following, but that I should start on his trail at 5 a. m. whether he returned or not. I ordered Koehler and the Indian, "Sam," to go with him to Grape-Vine Spring and re- main there, making collections iu natmal history till I came up. July 2-1, at 5 a. m., Hahn not returning, I set out upon his trail to the northeast, hoping to meet him. This trail led over a rocky, volcanic divide, separating Salinas from Termination Valley, which latter was some fifteen or twenty miles long, having heavy sand-hills, over which the trail led, the mules sinking knee-deep at every step. The day was excessively hot. The wind, passing over the heated sand-hills, came in scorching gusts, rendering our sufFerings intense and our thirst almost intolerable, while the incessant glare of the sun upon tiie white sand nearly blinded us and caused great ijain in our eyes and heads after the fir.st few hours. At 4 p. m. we struck the slope leading up to the foot-hills, covered with sharp rocks and jasper flints. By o p. m. we were brought to a halt halfway up a sharp peak, over which the trail led, by the mules becom- ing so weak as to be unable to proceed farther. I ascended the peak alone on foot to get a view of the country beyond. Once up, I saw no hope of getting my animals, in their then weak and exhausted state, over the summit at this point, so steep and rocky were the mountains. Beyond, range after range of black ridges, their wall-like sides banded with white, red, and yellow strata, reared their frowning crests, and seemed to interpose an impassable barrier to farther progress. I returned to my anxious followers and we descended in silence and tried two or three canons, but, after penetrating a short distance in each, were comiielled to turn back by vertical walls of rock that effectually prevented our ascent. Worn out and almost exhausted, we bivouacked on the heated, flinty surface to get a little rest ; made some coffee, our only fuel being some small bushes, and ate a little hard-tack. We dared not eat any meat for fear of increasing our thirst. I was surprised at the rapidity with which the mules weakened and succumbed to fatigue upon this day's march. We saw nothing of Hahn, and I concluded that he had found the country worse than he anticipated, and had, no doubt, deserted us ; or, thinking, perhaps, we would not attempt to follow his trail with pack-mules over such a country, had gone on to Join you. Twenty-four miles were made this day. Most of the distance we had to march on foot, owing to the weakness of our animals. The soles of my shoes had completely worn out, and' the others were but little better off. Fortunately, I had apairt)f slippers with me, which protected ijpy already bleeding and lacerated feet a little at least. Next morning I started off to southward along the foot-hills, to make one last endeavor to find a pass through which I could penetrate this range into the valley I knew must lie beyond. Happily 11 82 EXPLOEATION IX NEVADA AND ARIZONA. I found a cauon which bade fair to lead us to the summit without serious obstacle. This we called Last Hope Caiion. We reached the summit without difficultj-, and here fouud the trails of the three animals ridden by Koehler, Hahu, and the ludian. It was at or near this point that Koehler after- ward told me he had last seen Hahn about 8 p. m., at which time Hahn turned and left him without saying a word, and that he called to him but received no answer, and supposed he had gone back to meet me. Hahn must have followed after Koehler and the ludian that night, for we found the three trails lower down aud near the mouth of the caiion. This trail we followed eagerly down a deep caiion, but scarcely had we proceeded half a mile ere we came upon one of those falls of tilted slate which so often impede or prevent one's progress in these ca&ons. "With considerable loss of time we succeeded in reaching the arroyo below by climbing a bluff and going down a steej) incline of loose rocks and soil, but hardly half a mile more had been traversed before we came upon another fall, about 30 feet high. This barrier appeared at lirst sight to be impossible to surmount with our loaded pack-mules, but to return was hopeless, for the mules were too weak to climb back around the first fall. Our situation was indeed critical. Here we drank the last drop of water that we had husbanded carefully, amounting to only a few swallows each. This appeared rather to increase than alleviate our burning thirst. The party looked at me in silence till I gave the order for unpacking aud loweriug the cargoes with lash-ropes over the precipice. This was done cheerfully and without a murmur. With much labor, patience, and coaxing we got the mules to clamber up tCe cliffs and slide down into the wash below, without the loss of a single animal. I cannot speak in too high terms of the admirable courage and cheerful obedience of my little party during this trying day. Feeling little hope of meeting with water, we moved silently down for several miles, when suddenly a cry of " water" was heard from the man in front, who po'nt^d to a small green patch on the mountain-slope to the northwest. At the mouth of this caiiou— called Break Neck Caiion by the men— we left the trail of the men who had preceded us, they having turned off to the right, and made for the green spot over a perfect net-work of rocky rapines. The surface was completely covered with bi'oken volcanic rocks about the size of ordinary cobble-stones. About sundown we reached it, and found water sufficient for our wants by digging. Oar joy at this discovery knew no bounds. This we christened " Last Chance Spring." Distance made from last camp, nineteen miles. The next day, feeling very foot-sore and weak, though much refreshed, we started across the upper end of Death Valley, traveling over a gravelly, sandy desert to Gold Mountain, twenty-two and a half miles distant, reaching there about 4 p. m. About the middle of the valley we crossed a mule-track leading north toward Tule Canon ; this we thought to be the track of Hahn's mule. At Gold Mountain, finding two miners, I learned from them that I could not reach the Amar- gosa in less than three days' march, owing to the worn-out and lame condition of my animals. This would render me too late to meet you at that point according to our preconcerted arrangement. I prevailed upon Mr. T. J. Shaw, one of the miners, to take a fresh mule of his own and carry a message to you the next night. He did so, and returned the night following, bringing back your answer, which informed me of the critical condition of your party in regard to provisions, and also of the non-arrival of Hahn, the guide. This latter advice led me to suppose that he had deserted us" to our fate, and made for Tule Canon, where there was water. I immediately sent Mr. Shaw back to Grape- Vine to guide your train to Pigeon Spring, via Death Valley and Tule Caiion, while, with my party, I started for Fish Lake Valley to get supplies, and returned to Pigeon Spring, which we accomplished by 6 a. m. on the morning of the 2Sth, having been twenty hours in the saddle. That same day I went to the head of Death Valley to meet the train, but failing to make it out on the desert, returned, and had EXPLOEATION IN NEVADA AND AKIZONA. 83 just laid dowu to obtain a little rest Trhen Mr. Shaw arrived with a note from Dr. Cochraue, who was in charge, saying that they had arrived in a very exhausted condition at Tule Spring, some eight or nine miles distant. I immediately saddled up, and taking some flour and barley, set out for that point, reaching there at 2.30 a. m. The next day I moved your train over the mountains to Pigeon Spring, where, killing u beef, and having plenty of wood, grass, and water, we enjoyed a good night's rest and the first hearty meal either party had had for several days. Thence, by easy marches, ^ia Piper's ranch and Deep Spring Valley, I reached the rendezvous camp. FKOM CAMP INDEPENDENCE TO COTTONWOOD SPEINGS, NEVADA. During the time that we lay in Independence I was engaged in fitting out and supplying the difi'erent parties with subsistence stores, preparatory to another forward movement, and in duties of a general executive nature. August 12, main party No. 1 left this camp and moved south through Independence and Lone Piue, crossing Owen's River and camping near its mouth after a march of twenty miles. At this point you left us, and passing via Cerro Gordo were going to run a reconnaissance line to the north of mine, and then join me in the Telescope Eauge. Our next march was to the east of Owen's Lake, some twelve miles, to a point below Swansea ; road very sandy ; short alkali grass, very poor in quality ; bad water, and no wood. "We then moved southeast to near Arab Springs, in the Coso Range, about sixteen miles. Hero we had plenty of wood and grass, but very little water, though plenty of water was found at a large spring, five miles distant, in east side of range. The next day we crossed a small, broken, desert valley, called Tortoise Valley, and camped twenty-five miles out, near Egan's Falls, in Darwin CaELon ; little wood, plenty of water, but no grass here. The spring here suddenly rises near the foot of a high bluff, and quite a little stream issues forth ; running a short distance, it is precipitated over several cascades, from 12 to 80 feet high, formed by slate ledges. The canon at this point, and for some distance below, was impracticable, being only a narrow gorge cut through the slate by the water. The formation of this range is chiefly granite, slate, and volcanic rocks, with large mineral deposits in Granite Mountains. From here we crossed a high mountain by a steep trail, and, pass- ing to the north and west of Granite Mountain, we regained Darwin Canon, and following it down we debouched from the Tortoise Eauge into Panamiut Desert, a sterile basin, utterly destitute of vegetation except a few thorny shrubs. This desert for some miles was sandy. Then crossing a large alkali flat, till near the eastern side, onr route lay over low volcanic mesas whose surfaces were torn up and washed into deep, rocky ravines by the terrific water-spouts which are of frequent occurrence in this section. The trail now was extremely rough and rocky, rendering traveling very difficult ; reaching the foot-hills we suddenly changed our direction trom southeast to northeast, and proceeded up Rose CaSon seven or eight miles to Rose Springs, about five miles northwest of Tele- scope Peak, on the western slope of Telescope Range, where we camped. The weather was extremelj' hot, men and animals suffering greatly from thirst and fatigue. Panamint Desert is between twenty and thirty miles in length, and from eight to eighteen miles wide, a desolate waste of sand, gravel, alkali flats, and low mesas, with shifting sand-hills near northern extremity. Horned rattlesnakes met with here. Telescope Eauge, to the eastward from where we entered the desert, presented that peculiar banded structure of bright colors, known among old prospectors as " calico ranges." Town's Pass lay to the north of our camp. At Rose Spring we had plenty of water, and near the head of the caiion, which was an open plateau, plenty of grass and wood. Here we lay for a 84 EXPLOEATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. few days to send a topographical paity to the top of Telescope Peak, and puisuaut to your verbal iustnictions I dispatched Mr. Charles King to Fnruace Creek, ou the east side of Death Valley, to seek a pass over the rauge aud across that valley, aud also to ascertain the amount of water there. This he succeeded iu doing with great judgment. I also dispatched Mr. Egan, the guide, who so kindly volunteered to lead us to this point, with two men to go to Cottonwood Cafion, some dis- tance up the range, there to meet aud conduct you to my camp. On the morning of August 19 he left them aud went ou ahead to the uorthward, up the west side of Death Valley, to find that canon, aud, having an excellent mule, was soon out of sight. They followed his trail till 11 a. m., aud found their mules failing so fast that they turned back to Marble Spring, a place they had passed the day before. After much suffering and fatigue they regained my camp. As Mr. Egan had appeared quite positive iu his knowledge of tlie location of the point designated to meet you, I had uot the slightest doubt but that he had reached the camp of the small party at that place; but to guard against any chances of his failure to reach that point, and iu case he should return to Marble Spring, I sent a man to the latter place with a note, advising him of our movement (should he uot find the broad trail of the main party) across Death Valley, and also sent rations to be left there for him. Upon this day you xejoined me aud assumed command of the party. As Mr. Egan could not have reached Cottonwood before you left, we concluded that he had joined them afterward. I had no apprehensions for his safety, because he seemed perfectly conversant with the country. How- ever, rations and a note were left for him at Eose Spring in ca.se he should return to that place. Several days after, when the side party from Cotton woods joined us at Ash Meadows, I learned that Mr. Egan had never joined them, and was supposed to have lost himself iu Death Valley. Intelligence has since been received that he was heard from iu Clarke District, near the Colorado. From Eose Spring to Ash Meadows, Nevada, my duties Avere chiefly of a military nature, hav- ing commaud of the escort, aud iu executive charge of the train under your immediate direction. The route between these two points lay, the tirst day, along aud over the Telescope Eauge to Death Valley Caiion ; the next, Death Valley was crossed at a point where it was some fifteen or eighteen miles wide. This crossing was made safely, a small side party being detached to take meteorological observations at the lowest part or sink of the ^•allcJ■, about teu miles to the rigid, and southward. We camped at Furnace Creek on the east side of the vallej-. Wood scarce, grass poor in quality, being short, alkali gi'ass, very enervating to animals; water plenty, coming from numerous warm springs. Two days' hard marching brought our worn-out traiu to Ash Meadows, where we fouud pleuty of excellent grass and water, the latter from warm springs. Very little wood here. To reach this point we had to cross the Funeral Mountains, a range quite high and steep, and the Amargosa Desert, through which, for miles, the dry bed of the river of that name meanders southward. At this poiut we lay for a few days while you i)ushed forward to the rendezvous camp and sent back forage, of which we stood in great need. I then moved southward and crossed a low range into another sandy aud gravelly desert, (Pah-rimi) Desert,) which extends south for miles, and skirts the Spring Mountain Eauge. This desert contains several beautiful little oases, the principal one being at Pah-rimi) Springs, at which point are located quite a number of Pah-Ute Indians, very friendly and quite intelligent. These Indians raise corn, melons, and squashes. Great quantities of wild grai>es were fouud around tliese springs. From here, another day's march brought us to Stump Spring, on the old California emigrant-road. This road we followed to the rendezvous camp at Cottouwood Springs, Nevada, crossing the Spring Mountain Eauge, through an excellent pass near Mountain Spring, where we fouud pleuty of wood, grass, and water. EXPLOEATION IX NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 35 At Cottonwood Springs we lay for several days, procuriug supplies from Camp Mohave and Las Vegas. Here tlie river j.arty was detached to make the ascent of the Colorado l,y boat, and Lieutenant Lockwood placed in command of the land parties. FROM COTTONWOOD SPRINGS TO SAINT THOMAS, NEVADA. On the loth of September, Lieutenant Lockwood left this rendezvous camp for Las Ve^as tweuty-two. miles distant, and ordered me to follow with my party twenty-four hours later ^At Las Vegas we lay a day or two, awaiting the arrival of our supplies from Camp Mohave. On the 20th we started on the arduous march across the Vegas plains and mountains to the old California crossing of the Muddy, abont forty-five miles distant. This march was made at night Lieutenant Lockwood and party leading. I followed with main party No. 1 about an hour later' We arrived next morning at the crossing. The following day we moved down to Saint Thomas near the confluence of the Muddy with the A^rgin. At this point I was detached with a small topographical party to visit Salt Mountain, five miles south of Saint Thomas, and thence to proceed eastward across the Virgin Range to seek a point convenient to the crossing, for a rendezvous camp. The pass through this range is a very good one, practicable for wagons, though near the summit heavy sand was met with. The Mor nions had passed through it formerly with their light wagons. Two days' march brought us to Pah-Koon Springs, situated in a deep wash, which lies west of what the Mormons call the Grand Wash. The tract of country lying between the Virgin Ranoe and the SeA Itch Mountains to the eastward, and extending from near Saint George, Utah to the Colorado River, is a high volcanic mesa, cut by numerous caSons, very deep, but nearly all of which empty into the Grand Wash. Getting into these chasms once, it is almost impossible to get out for miles, the walls being high bluffs and nearly vertical. These canons, or arroyos, rise to the north- ward in large upland plateaus, densely covered with cedar, containing a good deal of grass, but very little water. ' Pah-Koon Springs are nine in number, all warm, with beds of quicksand beneath. The Indians have small patches of ground here which they irrigate and cultivate during the seasons they have Dopme-nuts. j