PLANNING A TRIP 
 ABROAD 
 
 BLAIR JAEKEL 
 
Class _i=, L_ 
 
 Book ^ v- ' 
 
 CopigM 
 
 COPYRIGHT DEPOSm 
 
PLANNING 
 
 A TRIP 
 
 ABROAD 
 
PLANNING 
 A TRIP ABROAD 
 
 BY 
 BLAIR JAEKEL, F.R.G.S. 
 
 Author of Windmills and Wooden Shoes, etc. 
 
 NEW YORK 
 
 McBRIDE, NAST & COMPANY 
 
 1913 
 
Copyright, 1912, Bt 
 McBRIDE, NAST & CO. 
 
 J3 
 
 Published, May, 1912 
 
 gCI.A31 I 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 PAGE 
 
 I Routes and Expenses 1 
 
 When to go 3 
 
 Choice of steamer 5 
 
 Table — Costs of passage ... 12 
 
 What to take and wear .... 16 
 
 Carrying money 20 
 
 Passports 22 
 
 Mail 23 
 
 Cablegrams 24 
 
 Arranging for steamer baggage . . 26 
 
 Costs of traveling 27 
 
 Trips costing $150-$340 .... 28 
 
 Trips costing $490-$535 .... 32 
 
 II On Board 35 
 
 Disposal of baggage 36 
 
 The deck chair 38 
 
 Bathing arrangements 38 
 
 Mail 40 
 
 The dining saloon 41 
 
 Fees on shipboard 47 
 
 Service 50 
 
 Deck sports 51 
 
 Social entertainments 52 
 
 Other amusements 53 
 
 III Arrival in Europe 57 
 
 Passing the customs 57 
 
 Baggage arrangements 61 
 
 Transportation charges .... 64 
 
 Shipping baggage 65 
 
 Railway information ..... 67 
 
 Porters, cabs and tips ..... 67 
 
 Purchasing railroad tickets ... 69 
 
 Time-tables 70 
 
 Economical ways to travel ... 71 
 
 Circular tour tickets 72 
 
 Season tickets 74 
 
 Distance tickets 76 
 
 Special tickets 76 
 
Contents 
 
 PAGE 
 
 What class to travel 78 
 
 Table — rates and distances ... 80 
 
 Hotels and pensions 94 
 
 Costs of accommodations .... 94 
 
 Tips in hotels 100 
 
 Hotel coupons 101 
 
 Seeing points of interest .... 103 
 
 Routes between countries . . . 108 
 
 IV What to See Abroad 115 
 
 Algeria 115 
 
 Austria 116 
 
 The Balkan States 117 
 
 Bavaria 118 
 
 Belgium 119 
 
 England 122 
 
 Ireland 127 
 
 Scotland 129 
 
 Wales 132 
 
 Brittany .134 
 
 Dalmatia 137 
 
 Denmark 138 
 
 France 138 
 
 The Riviera 138 
 
 The Rhone Valley 140 
 
 Germany 140 
 
 The Black Forest 141 
 
 The Rhine 141 
 
 Holland 146 
 
 Italy 148 
 
 The Lake District 148 
 
 The Hill Towns 150 
 
 Normandy 151 
 
 Norway 152 
 
 Portugal 153 
 
 Russia 155 
 
 Sicily 155 
 
 Spain 156 
 
 Sweden 157 
 
 Switzerland 157 
 
 Tyrol 159 
 
 V Shopping in Eubope 161 
 
 Where to buy: 
 
 Amber, artificial flowers, cameos, 
 165; chinaware and pottery; ci- 
 
Contents . 
 
 PAGE 
 
 gars, 166; cigarettes, clothes, 167; 
 coral, 169; cutlery, diamonds, dress 
 goods, 171; embroideries, 172; en- 
 gravings and reproductions, filigree 
 work in gold and silver, 173; furs, 
 gloves, 174; hats, 175; inlaid work, 
 176; ivories, 177; jewelry, lace, 178; 
 leather goods, 179; linens, mosaics, 
 motor apparel, 182; pearls, pipes, 
 Roman antiquities in jewelry, etc., 
 silks, 183; silverware and Shef- 
 field plate, shoes, tobacco for the 
 pipe, 184; toilet articles, tortoise 
 shell, turquoises, 185; umbrellas, 
 underwear, 186; walking sticks, 
 watches, water-proofs, wood-carv- 
 ing, 187; miscellaneous, 188. 
 
 VI Automobile Touring Abroad . . .189 
 VII Hotels and Hotel List . . . . . 199 
 
 Austria 200 
 
 Belgium and Holland 201 
 
 British Isles 202 
 
 France 208 
 
 Germany 210 
 
 Italy 213 
 
 Russia 216 
 
 Spain 217 
 
 Switzerland 217 
 
 Tyrol 220 
 
 VIII Books to Read 221 
 
 General Information ..... 221 
 
 Austro-Hungary 221 
 
 The Balkan States 222 
 
 Belgium 222 
 
 England and Wales 222 
 
 France 224 
 
 Germany 225 
 
 Greece 225 
 
 Holland 226 
 
 Ireland 226 
 
 Italy 227 
 
 Mediterranean Countries .... 228 
 
 Norway and Sweden 228 
 
 Palestine 229 
 
Contents . 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Russia 229 
 
 Scotland 229 
 
 Spain and Portugal . . . . .229 
 
 Switzerland 230 
 
 Turkey 230 
 
 IX Foreign Money 231 
 
 Interchangeability 231 
 
 Tables of foreign money .... 234 
 
 X United States Customs on Return . 238 
 
 U. S. Customs Regulations . . . 244 
 
 Residents of the United States . 245 
 
 Non-residents of the United States 247 
 
 Goods other than personal effects 247 
 
 Cigars and cigarettes .... 248 
 
 Baggage declarations .... 248 
 
 Contested valuation 250 
 
 Miscellaneous provisions . . . 250 
 
 Baggage for transportation) bond 251 
 
 Sealskin garments . . . . . 251 
 
 Penalty for non-declaration . . 251 
 
I 
 
 ROUTES AND EXPENSES 
 
 WHATEVER you have read of the 
 history, romance, literature, art 
 or architecture of Europe in general, or 
 of the different European countries in 
 particular, will in a measure determine 
 what you wish to see on a trip abroad. 
 It will all have been unconsciously pre- 
 paratory. Whatever interests you most 
 in your readings you will want most to 
 see, and like as not you will plan your trip 
 so that the itinerary will include such 
 towns and cities the reading about which 
 has contributed the most to your pleasure 
 and enlightenment. 
 
 Having obtained, therefore, unknow- 
 ingly through the previous years, a gen- 
 eral idea of where you wish to go abroad 
 and what you wish to see, then, in a gen- 
 eral way, plot out your prospective trip 
 with a map of Europe in front of you, 
 bearing in mind always that it is cheaper 
 — if this item concerns you in the least — 
 and more satisfactory to "do" a little of 
 Europe at a time and "do" it thoroughly. 
 Having planned your itinerary, it is time 
 then to take up in detail such reading 
 matter as bears directly upon your trip. 
 
2 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 Going well armed with information about 
 the places you intend to visit will enable 
 you to expend your time and money in 
 each to the best possible advantage, and 
 objects of no great interest to you, or 
 those of only local celebration, may be thus 
 overlooked with impunity. The subject 
 you are interested in the most, whether 
 history, romance, art, architecture, city 
 building, literature or what not, will 
 doubtless govern your route. 
 
 Assuming that you have chosen in a 
 general way what you wish to see the 
 most, perhaps the best method of becom- 
 ing conversant with any certain country 
 or city, so to speak, is to read over the 
 various travel books covering the subject. 
 These are usually thorough and authen- 
 tic. But while reading them you may, 
 perchance, change your route appropri- 
 ately. Time and again you will find that 
 the smaller and apparently insignificant 
 towns hold more of interest for you than 
 the larger cities — not so much of art and 
 literature, perhaps, but often of history 
 and architecture and customs and cos- 
 tumes. The cities are more cosmopoli- 
 tan; the out-of-the-way places the more 
 typical. Art and architecture are not 
 mere by-products of Europe. A certain 
 amount of knowledge of the history of 
 each will be to the traveler's advantage. 
 
Routes and Expenses 3 
 
 When to Go 
 
 When to visit certain countries or 
 cities depends upon two things: The 
 season of the year and the festivals 
 or celebrations that take place at certain 
 times, if you are at all interested in such 
 matters — such as the Passion Play at 
 Oberammergau. 
 
 May and June are perhaps the best 
 months to visit Ireland, although in the 
 late summer there is more to do there of 
 a social nature. England, Scotland and 
 Wales are at their best during the sum- 
 mer months. From a tourist's point of 
 view, Northern France, Germany, Bel- 
 gium, Holland, Austria and overland 
 through the Balkan States as far east as 
 Constantinople, Russia, Denmark, Nor- 
 way and Sweden are most advantageously 
 visited in summer. Spring is the time of 
 year to visit Southern France, the Ri- 
 viera, Southern Italy and Sicily, Greece 
 and Dalmatian ports along the Adriatic. 
 Easter in Rome is quite an event. On 
 the other hand, the glow and warmth of 
 a winter along the Riviera or in South- 
 ern Italy is largely fictitious. The sun, 
 when it shines, is agreeably warm ; but the 
 natives have not as yet mastered the 
 house heating problem to the satisfaction 
 of the American tourist. The hotel peo- 
 
4 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 pie will exaggerate the pathetic story of 
 one little three-pronged radiator to a 
 room into a compelling catch-line adver- 
 tising steam heat. 
 
 Trace a line directly east from New 
 York and it will just about bisect the cu- 
 pola of the Aquarium at Naples. Naples 
 in summer is as warm as New York, but 
 more and more people annually are spend- 
 ing at least a part of the summer months 
 in Southern Italy and Sicily. South of 
 the latter is impossible, almost, in sum- 
 mer. Port authorities are more than ac- 
 tive these days in checking the admittance 
 of cholera suspects, and, taken by and 
 large, the ports of Italy are as healthful 
 in summer as those of any other country. 
 
 June in Venice is delightful and per- 
 haps the best month to visit it and the 
 Italian Lake district. June, July and 
 August are the "high season" months in 
 Switzerland; even early in June some of 
 the mountain passes are not yet open and 
 the villages up in the mountains are in- 
 accessible. Southern Spain is too terri- 
 bly hot for comfort in midsummer; be- 
 sides, most of the illustrious adepts in 
 what may be called Spain's national sport, 
 bull-fighting, have left for a tour of Mex- 
 ico or have gone on vacations to their 
 country estates — and many rich men may 
 be numbered among the Spanish matadors 
 
Routes and Expenses 5 
 
 — so that the exhibitions given, if any, 
 are of mediocre caliber. Portugal, being 
 for the most part coast line, is not so 
 warm. Winter in Madeira, the Canary 
 Islands or the Azores is delightful, and 
 summer there is by no means unbearable; 
 but these, although possessions of Euro- 
 pean countries, can hardly be considered 
 parts of Europe. Midsummer is, of 
 course, the time of year to visit the north- 
 ern countries that fringe the Baltic, while 
 the ideal time to start from New York 
 upon a trip to the Mediterranean is in 
 February or March. 
 
 Choice of Steamer 
 
 In their choice of steamers, travelers 
 must be governed by their tastes and 
 their pocket-books. If not in too much 
 of a hurry the prospective voyageur will 
 find the larger, slower boats more con- 
 ducive to a pleasant, healthful trip across. 
 These are vastly steadier, of less vibra- 
 tion and somewhat cheaper, although not 
 much, than the fast express steamers, and 
 are lifted gently over the seas instead of 
 ploughing through them. The slower 
 the steamer, the less vibration; and the 
 heavier she is loaded, the less motion. 
 
 In the selection of the stateroom it 
 might be well to remember that the nearer 
 the center of equilibrium of a ship, tech- 
 
6 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 A MAP OP EUROPE 
 
Routes and Expenses 
 
 H0W1STG TRAVEL DISTRICTS 
 
8 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 nically speaking, the less motion. In an 
 "outside" room on the highest deck there 
 will be felt more lateral motion, or "roll," 
 than in an "inside" room on the lowest. 
 In a room near either the bow or the 
 stern of the ship there will be felt more 
 perpendicular motion, or "pitch," than in 
 a room situated amidships. "Outside" 
 rooms, or rooms having windows or ports 
 looking out to sea, being more airy, 
 slightly larger, better lighted and better 
 equipped than "inside" rooms, are, of 
 course, more expensive. 
 
 To avail yourself of the lowest steamer 
 rates, you will have to start any time be- 
 tween the first of September, generally 
 speaking, and the first of April ; but often 
 this is not practicable. Winter rates 
 westbound, which are the lowest in this 
 direction, commence about November first. 
 Some of these winter rates with certain 
 lines amount to but three-quarters or 
 two-thirds of the so-called "high season" 
 rates. Another advantage that the out- 
 of-season voyageur has is that trans- 
 Atlantic steamship travel between the 
 dates above mentioned is comparatively 
 light, and many steamship companies of- 
 fer the passenger the best on the ship, 
 within certain bounds, for the minimum 
 rate. 
 
 "Intermediate" steamship rates to Eu- 
 
Routes and Expenses 9 
 
 rope, slightly higher than the winter 
 ones, hold good for, say, the month of 
 April and the first two weeks in August. 
 Westbound, there may be but one or two 
 sailings of intermediate rates. East- 
 bound summer rates apply in May and 
 continue through July. Westbound, 
 they apply in August and continue into 
 October — and then is when you will have 
 to pay the piper for the best accommo- 
 dations. 
 
 It being "out of season" to cruise to 
 the Mediterranean in summer, the steam- 
 ship rates 'to these southern ports are 
 considerably lower in summer than in win- 
 ter. By landing at Naples, Palermo, 
 Genoa or Trieste and traveling north- 
 ward and westward, returning from a 
 British or north Continental port, a 
 great part of Europe may be toured 
 without the traveler having to retrace a 
 single step. 
 
 The American Line ships, sailing from 
 Philadelphia to Liverpool; the Red Star 
 liners, from Philadelphia to Antwerp ; 
 the Hamburg-American liners, from 
 Philadelphia to Hamburg ; and those of 
 the North German Lloyd, from Baltimore 
 to Bremen, are among the most popular 
 "one-cabin" boats — that is, boats carry- 
 ing no first cabin passengers, but where 
 the passenger is first class on the boat. 
 
10 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 On these the rate of passage is slightly 
 more than half the minimum rate pre- 
 vailing on the boats of the same lines 
 sailing from New York. They are big, 
 slow, steady freighters, and where the 
 sea voyage and the intimate associations 
 that it brings are to be considered by the 
 traveler, he could not do better than book 
 his passage on one of them. The Ham- 
 burg line, especially, is doing everything 
 in its power to make its Philadelphia 
 service more popular, and it has recently 
 transferred from its New York service 
 several heretofore "first cabin" ships to 
 be used in its "one-cabin" Philadelphia 
 service. With these boats the element of 
 time is not considered. They take from 
 ten days to two weeks to make the voy- 
 age. Gales and bad weather bother them 
 not the slightest. If worse comes to 
 worse, they head into it, no matter what 
 the direction, and do not attempt to 
 "buck it," as is demanded of the fast ex- 
 press steamers. 
 
 Four lines for British ports sail from 
 Montreal in summer, and from Halifax 
 and Portland in winter: the Allan Line, 
 the Royal Line, the White Star-Dominion 
 Line and the Canadian Pacific. This 
 route is not only 300 miles shorter than 
 from New York across, but fully one- 
 third of the total distance — some 900 
 
Routes and Expenses 11 
 
 miles — is eaten up in the voyage down 
 the St. Lawrence River and Bay. There 
 are' less than four days of open ocean 
 sailing, the distance across from land to 
 land being only about 1800 miles. The 
 scenery along the St. Lawrence Valley is 
 another item to the credit of the route. 
 Both first and "one-cabin" ships ply on 
 this Canadian service and a wide range 
 of rates is available. It is a popular 
 route, not only with the Canadians them- 
 selves, but with American residents from 
 the West, the journey to Montreal being 
 less expensive and a great deal shorter, 
 of course, than to New York or other 
 port on the Atlantic seaboard. 
 
 Condensing matters, the reader will 
 find compiled on the following four pages 
 a table showing the minimum rates of 
 passage by the various lines. 
 
12 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
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16 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 What to Take and Wear 
 
 What to take and what to wear on 
 a trip through Europe is a problem 
 that will continue to puzzle the theo- 
 rists for some time to come. One thing 
 is certain : you will always take too 
 much ; you will always find that you might 
 have done without this, that and the 
 other, and that space is occupied by car- 
 rying it along which might have been 
 used to better advantage. Lay out 
 everything that you cannot possibly do 
 without, and then take only half of it — 
 this might serve as a pretty good axiom 
 to go by. 
 
 On board ship the traveler, even in 
 summer, will wish to wear something in 
 the way of a suit which is reasonably 
 heavy. Homespun cloth is perhaps the 
 best for this purpose — it does not have to 
 be kept as perfectly pressed to look well 
 as serge, for example, for the salt sea 
 air and dampness are death to creases. 
 These homespun effects also make admir- 
 able suitings in which to travel about Eu- 
 rope. A coat sweater and a light-weight 
 raincoat are almost indispensable for 
 steamer use, as well as for traveling in 
 the north of Europe, no matter what the 
 time of year. Bedroom slippers and a 
 bathrobe may be put to daily use by the 
 
Routes and Expenses 17 
 
 passenger to go to and come from the 
 bathroom, although the light raincoat, 
 which the passenger has been previously 
 warned to carry, will serve admirably in 
 lieu of the bathrobe. A steamer rug, of 
 course, is a necessity. On many ships 
 nowadays these may be rented for the 
 voyage from the deck steward upon pay- 
 ment of one dollar, thus saving the trav- 
 eler one item of baggage which is next to 
 useless except for the steamer passage. 
 If the traveler sits about much in his 
 deck chair with his feet and lower limbs 
 unprotected by a wrap he will rue the 
 day that he did not procure a steamer 
 rug by one means or another. The in- 
 tending purchaser of one will do better 
 to rent a rug for the passage across, buy- 
 ing one in London before the return. 
 England is the home of articles of this 
 sort, and they may be had cheaper there 
 than in America. 
 
 The lounging suit should be changed 
 before dinner to one of dark material. 
 
 The full dress suit is never necessary, 
 unless on a diplomatic mission. If there 
 should be dances on board, as is often 
 the case in good weather, a dinner coat, 
 or Tuxedo, is of course desirable, but it 
 is by no means compulsory to wear one 
 to dinner. I should say that possibly 
 one-third of the first class passengers 
 
18 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 appear at dinner on shipboard in evening 
 clothes ; part of the remainder merely 
 change to other and more presentable ap- 
 parel; and some don't change at all. It 
 is purely a matter of personal choice. 
 
 Negligee shirts of flannel, or other 
 soft material, with soft, unstarched cuffs, 
 are the best for travel, either by land or 
 sea. If the traveler fails to take a cap 
 that really "stays on" it will be missed 
 sorely, and even a heavy overcoat, or ul- 
 ster, may be taken along for wear on 
 board ship. It will not be found too 
 warm if the winds blow from the north, 
 and it may be rolled in the same bundle 
 with the steamer rugs at the end of the 
 voyage to be left in storage with the 
 steamship company until the return trip, 
 or, if returning by another line, sent 
 ahead to the port of embarkation to be 
 stored by the company until the sailing 
 date. 
 
 Rubber-soled shoes are not a necessity 
 on shipboard, but to many who are ac- 
 customed to their heelless form a pair 
 of these will be considered a desirable 
 addition to the luggage. 
 
 For steamer wear, ladies should have 
 an old suit for the deck, soft hat, veil, 
 and heavy long coat and sweater, all of 
 which may be packed up at the end of 
 the voyage with the rugs. For wear on 
 
Routes and Expenses 19 
 
 the other side, a three-piece suit of rajah 
 or mohair is the best, and, if going to 
 northern climates, a woolen suit. Wash 
 silk waists are preferable, and one or two 
 fancy dark waists to match the suit 
 should be taken ; for street and afternoon 
 wear, one or two foulard one-piece 
 dresses ; and a semi-evening gown of 
 crepe de chine — the crepe and silks are 
 easily packed, take up little room, and 
 do not wrinkle. As to shoes, three pairs 
 are amply sufficient: one pair of heavy 
 waterproofs, one pair of low shoes, and 
 a pair of pumps for evening. Doe skin 
 or chamois gloves are good because they 
 are readily washable. A dark, thin, silk 
 kimono is a necessity. Toilet articles of 
 celluloid are lighter than those of silver 
 and less likely to be stolen. Silk, or 
 Skinner satin petticoats save laundry 
 bills. Last but not least, a sewing bag 
 containing the small necessities may be 
 packed along. Old underwear, if worn 
 on the trip, may be thrown away at the 
 end or when soiled, and replaced with new 
 garments very cheaply and satisfactorily 
 in Europe. This latter applies to men as 
 well as to women. 
 
 The ideal way to travel through Eu- 
 rope is in company with a suit case, as- 
 sisted, perhaps, by a small handbag in 
 which to carry toilet articles and things 
 
20 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 likely to be needed upon a moment's no- 
 tice. An additional ticket may be 
 bought, almost, for what it costs to 
 transport even a steamer trunk with you 
 from one place to another. 
 
 Carrying Money 
 
 By far the simplest, safest and sanest 
 method of carrying funds abroad is to 
 make use of the "travelers' checks" is- 
 sued by the American Express Company, 
 the American Bankers' Association, 
 Thomas Cook & Son, or any of the prin- 
 cipal steamship lines. Where a long 
 stay is to be made in one place, the let- 
 ter of credit, perhaps, is better, and even 
 a sight draft is easily negotiable upon 
 the proper identification. 
 
 Travelers' checks are of $10, $20, $50, 
 $100 and $200 denominations, and the 
 rate of purchase is one-half of one per 
 cent. — in other words, $100.50 will buy 
 $100 worth of checks. Bound together 
 in a neat folding cover, they may be 
 carried in the hip pocket by gentlemen, 
 and secured to a button by means of a 
 chain supplied for the purpose; by a 
 lady, in a chamois bag around the waist 
 or in a deep pocket in the underskirt. 
 A small pamphlet giving the names of 
 banks and correspondents, even in the 
 most remote cities and towns throughout 
 
Routes and Expenses 21 
 
 the world, which cash these checks is sup- 
 plied the purchaser; and in almost all of 
 the hotels and larger stores abroad they 
 are gladly accepted in payment of pur- 
 chases made. If the traveler returns to 
 America with one or a number of un- 
 cashed checks they may be deposited for 
 their face values in bank, like bills of the 
 same denominations, and he loses nothing. 
 
 The method of turning these checks 
 into money abroad is easy; simply sign 
 your name on the line designated, mak- 
 ing sure that your signature as signed in 
 the presence of the payer is identical with 
 that with which you already signed the 
 check in the office of the company from 
 which it was purchased. They may be 
 purchased abroad as well as in America. 
 The equivalent of the American denomi- 
 nation of the check in the coinages of 
 the different foreign countries is shown 
 on its face, so there need be no fear of a 
 swindle. 
 
 Before embarking it is best to buy, 
 say, $20 worth of the money of the coun- 
 try in which you expect to land to cover 
 incidental expenses until you will have 
 time to have one of your checks cashed. 
 A limited amount may be procured from 
 the purser, and, in case the procuring of 
 it ashore was impracticable, it should be 
 obtained from him several days before 
 
22 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 the termination of the voyage. There 
 will doubtless be a run on his bank the 
 landing day, and some will come away 
 disappointed. 
 
 Passports 
 
 While passports are convenient docu- 
 ments to have along, they are absolutely 
 necessary only when traveling through 
 Russia, Turkey and the Balkan States, 
 and then only after having been prop- 
 erly vised by the Consul-General of the 
 country in the American city in which 
 the traveler lives. They may be vised 
 by the Russian, Turkish, Servian, or 
 other Consul-General in London, or Ber- 
 lin, or Paris, for example, upon the 
 proper recommendation of the American 
 Consul-General in that city, but it is much 
 less trouble to have them vised in Amer- 
 ica. As a means of prompt and absolute 
 identification a passport is worth all the 
 money expended for it. 
 
 The method of procedure to obtain a 
 passport is as follows: Upon request, 
 the Passport Division of the State De- 
 partment in Washington will send to you 
 an identification blank. After filling this 
 in, signing it and swearing to the result 
 before any notary public, mail this blank 
 back to the State Department, Passport 
 Division, together with one dollar, and 
 
Routes and Expenses 23 
 
 the passport, properly made out, will be 
 forthcoming in a few days. A passport 
 is valid for two years from the date of 
 issue, and safeguards the foreign travel- 
 ing of a man and his wife and minor chil- 
 dren. 
 
 Mail 
 
 Before starting, decide upon certain 
 addresses to which mail may be sent, and 
 instruct relatives and friends accord- 
 ingly. These addresses may be those of 
 the correspondents of the banking house 
 which supplied your travelers' checks or 
 letter of credit, or of the steamship com- 
 pany's agents, or of the branches of one 
 of the large tourist companies. If going 
 and coming through London it might be 
 best to have your mail sent there, giving 
 explicit written instructions about for- 
 warding while on your Continental trip 
 to the agent of the company who handles 
 it. If you do not expect to be in the 
 same city twice, give addresses along the 
 route sufficiently far ahead of your trav- 
 eling schedule so that mail may be await- 
 ing you. At each point, after you have 
 inquired for mail, give instructions for 
 forwarding — always in writing — so that 
 letters received after you have left will 
 reach you ultimately. It is hardly ad- 
 visable to have mail, especially important 
 
24 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 mail, sent to hotels, unless you contem- 
 plate a prolonged stay in a certain place. 
 Purchasers of Thos. Cook & Son's 
 hotel coupons, or buyers of railway tick- 
 ets through them, may avail themselves of 
 Cook's mail-forwarding service, than 
 which there is no better. Suppose, for 
 example, you land in Naples and travel 
 up through Europe, sailing for home 
 from Liverpool: have all mail, up until a 
 certain date and giving sufficient time al- 
 lowance for it to reach the place before 
 you, sent to Cook's, for instance, in Ven- 
 ice. After that date, and up until a cer- 
 tain later one, have mail sent to Cook's 
 office in Lucerne, then Paris, then Berlin, 
 then London, and so on. When you 
 reach Venice and receive your mail leave 
 written instructions on a card especially 
 printed for the purpose for them to for- 
 ward all mail that may come for you 
 after you have departed to their office in 
 one of the cities on ahead at which you 
 expect to stop — the last city visited be- 
 fore you sail for home is best. Repeat 
 the performance at every point where you 
 have ordered letters sent. 
 
 Cablegrams 
 
 Cablegrams may be opened and re- 
 wired to any address, if a certain sum is 
 left to prepay the charge, the remainder 
 
Routes and Expenses 25 
 
 to be refunded, or they may be mailed to 
 your next known stopping place. 
 
 If there be the least possibility of your 
 having to cable back to America it is ad- 
 visable, before you start, to decide upon 
 a code name and have it registered at 
 both the Western Union and Postal Cable 
 offices in the city in which the party lives 
 to whom you may wish to cable. If this 
 party lives, for instance, in Chicago, the 
 code name of the party followed by the 
 name of the city will be sufficient address. 
 Suppose the word "wax" is chosen as the 
 code name of the party to whom you wish 
 to cable; then a cable addressed "Wax 
 Chicago" will reach him. "Wax" may 
 also be your code name abroad, to be reg- 
 istered with the firm which handles your 
 mail. If your party in America wishes 
 to cable you he will address it "Wax," to 
 be followed by the code name of the firm, 
 and the city. If you are in London and 
 Cook handles your mail and if you have 
 registered your code name with them, 
 "Wax care Coupon (Cook's code name in 
 London) London" will reach you, being 
 either held until called for or forwarded, 
 according to instructions. Be particu- 
 lar that both you and your friends or 
 relatives in America use the same cable 
 code. The International Mercantile Ma- 
 rine puts out a neat code book, grouping 
 
26 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 sentences about forwarding money, ill- 
 ness in the family, etc., under certain code 
 words. Any one of the well-known com- 
 mercial codes is of wonderfully wide scope. 
 
 Arranging for Steamer Baggage 
 
 If you return by the same line, or by 
 one of the same combination of lines, from 
 the same port in Europe that you landed, 
 whatever baggage that you may have 
 which is unnecessary to your comfort on 
 your Continental trip, such as a roll of 
 steamer rugs, may be stored with the 
 steamship company at that port, free, 
 gratis, for nothing, to be claimed by you 
 when you come to embark for home. Mr. 
 Cook also handles and stores baggage 
 with care and impunity, and he will call 
 for it, although not in person, and for- 
 ward the same to any point, port or prin- 
 cipality for a nominal charge, and even 
 place it in your room in the hotel for you 
 and unbuckle the straps. In the case of 
 a trunk you will have to surrender the 
 key to the forwarding agent for the bene- 
 fit of the customs official of the country 
 to which it is consigned. If you land at 
 a Mediterranean port and wish to wan- 
 der up through Europe and sail for home 
 from a British or German port, steamer 
 baggage may be given over to the care 
 of the ship's baggage master before land- 
 
Routes and Expenses 27 
 
 ing, and he will follow instructions as to 
 forwarding to the port, or even inland 
 city, desired. Of course it will cost you 
 some money, but then you will learn from 
 experience that baggage is the bane of 
 European or any other kind of travel. 
 
 Costs of Traveling 
 
 A trip to Europe consuming some few 
 days more than five weeks can be made 
 for considerably less than $200, if the 
 traveler will but cross on "one-cabin" 
 boats, make use of the third class railway 
 carriages on the British Isles — plenty 
 comfortable enough and the class usually 
 taken by the average American — and 
 second class on all Continental railways, 
 which tickets ordinarily permit of first 
 cabin boat passage across the English 
 Channel or the North Sea. An example 
 of such a trip is as follows: 
 From Philadelphia to Liverpool ("one cabin" 
 boat), eleven days in crossing. 
 
 1st day — Arrive in Liverpool. 
 
 2nd day — To Chester, Birmingham and Warwick. 
 
 3rd day — Coach to Leamington and on to Strat- 
 ford-on-Avon. 
 
 4th day — To London. 
 
 5th, 6th, 7th and 8th days — In London. 
 
 9th day — To Paris via Newhaven and Dieppe. 
 10th, 11th, 12th and 13th days— In Paris. 
 14th day — To Brussels. 
 15th day — Brussels and Antwerp. 
 16th day — Embark from Antwerp, "one cabin" 
 ship to Philadelphia, 12 days in cross- 
 ing. 
 
28 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 Your passage over and back at the mini- 
 mum rate will cost $ 95.00 
 
 You allow for tips on board 16.00 
 
 Your traveling and hotel expenses on the 
 other side for the sixteen days will come 
 to exactly 48.00 
 
 Total $159.00 
 
 Trips Costing $160-$S^0 
 
 For $173.50 (this can be run up to 
 $196, if you take the pick of the accom- 
 modations on a "one-cabin" boat) you can 
 loaf eleven glorious days at sea, make a 
 three weeks' tour of the cathedral towns 
 of England, and loaf eleven days going 
 home again, as follows : 
 
 Philadelphia to Liverpool ("one-cabin" boat), 
 eleven days en voyage. 
 
 1st day — Arrive in Liverpool. 
 
 2nd day — To Chester, Birmingham and Warwick. 
 
 3rd day — Leamington, Stratford-on-Avon and 
 Oxford. 
 
 4th day — To London. 
 
 5th, 6th and 7th days — In London. 
 
 8th day— To Colchester. 
 
 9th day — To Ipswich. 
 
 10th day — To Bury and Cambridge. 
 
 11th day — In Cambridge. 
 
 12th day— To Ely. 
 
 13th day— To Yarmouth. 
 
 14th day — To Norwich. 
 
 15th day — To Lynn and coach to Sandringham. 
 
 16th day— To March. 
 
 17th day — To Peterboro and return to March. 
 
 18th day — To Boston and Lincoln. 
 
 19th day — To Doncaster and Sheffield. 
 
 20th day— To Manchester. 
 
 21st day — To Liverpool and embark for Phila- 
 delphia ("one-cabin" boat). 
 
Routes and Expenses 29 
 
 In this case, your steamer transportation 
 
 (minimum rate) will cost $95.00 
 
 Tips on board will come to 16.00 
 
 Hotel and traveling expenses for three 
 weeks in England 62.50 
 
 Total $173.50 
 
 For $73, which covers merely the ex- 
 penses of transportation through Europe 
 in this case, quite a comprehensive tour of 
 its northern part may be made, as fol- 
 lows: "One-cabin" boat from Philadel- 
 phia to Liverpool; on to Harwich and 
 across the North Sea to the Hook of Hol- 
 land ; to The Hague ; to Amsterdam ; to 
 Berlin ; to Cologne ; up the Rhine to May- 
 ence; to Frankfort; to Lucerne via 
 Schaffhausen ; to Interlaken ; to Como 
 and the Italian Lakes; back to Berne; to 
 Paris; to Brussels; to London via Ostend 
 and Dover ; to Warwick and Stratford- 
 on-Avon; to Liverpool and return to 
 Philadelphia on a "one-cabin" steamer. 
 By purchasing Cook's so-called "second 
 class" hotel coupons — which hotels in 
 many cases are just as satisfactory as 
 those of the "first class" — the traveler 
 may allow $1.87 a day for room, break- 
 fast and dinner. The cost of lunches 
 need not exceed any coin equivalent to 
 our quarter. A thirty days' trip would 
 thus cost for hotel coupons $56.10. 
 This, plus $95 for steamer passages at 
 
30 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 the minimum rate, plus a limit of $16 for 
 tips on board, plus the $73 for railway 
 transportation, plus $7.50 for lunches, 
 will total $247.60 — actual expenses for 
 traveling. Tips abroad should not total 
 more than $10, the necessary expenses of 
 the whole excursion of seven full weeks 
 costing in round numbers $260. 
 
 Transportation through southern Eu- 
 rope — always second class railway car- 
 riage on the Continent, third class in 
 England, and first class on Channel boats 
 — will cost $89, the route lying as fol- 
 lows : Antwerp to Munich ; to Venice ; to 
 Florence; to Rome; to Naples; to Genoa; 
 to Monte Carlo; to Marseilles; to Bor- 
 deaux ; to Paris ; to London via Rouen, 
 Dieppe and Newhaven; to Liverpool via 
 Oxford, Birmingham and Chester. From 
 Philadelphia to Antwerp on a "one-cabin" 
 ship, and return from Liverpool on a boat 
 of the same type, will cost, say $110; 
 tips on board, $16 ; hotel accommodations 
 and meals for thirty days, $63.60 as be- 
 fore. These plus the $89 for transporta- 
 tion through Europe will total $278.60, 
 being all necessary expenses, except the 
 tips abroad and incidental expenditures 
 and purchases. 
 
 For $160, covering all necessary ex- 
 penses for a month's trip from the time 
 you leave the American continent until 
 
Routes and Expenses 31 
 
 you return, you may proceed as follows : 
 Leave Montreal on a "one-cabin" boat 
 for Havre ; proceed to Paris, having three 
 days' sight-seeing about Paris and Ver- 
 sailles ; to London, via Dieppe and New- 
 haven ; spend three days in London ; to 
 Edinburgh; to Glasgow and return from 
 there to Montreal. 
 
 An eight weeks' trip from Montreal to 
 Liverpool, through central Europe and 
 return to Montreal from Glasgow, in- 
 clusive of all necessary expenses, may be 
 made for $340. The route in this case 
 would touch Liverpool, Chester, Strat- 
 ford-on-Avon and Warwick, London, 
 Harwich and the Hook of Holland, The 
 Hague and Scheveningen, Amsterdam, 
 Antwerp and Brussels, Cologne, Biebrich 
 and Wiesbaden via the Rhine, Heidelberg, 
 Lucerne via Basle, Interlaken via Meirin- 
 gen and Brunig Pass, Griindelwald, Ge- 
 neva via Lausanne and lake steamer, Paris 
 with five days there, London via Dieppe 
 and Newhaven, Melrose and the Abbeys, 
 Edinburgh and Glasgow. 
 
 These examples show for how little a 
 trip to and through Europe may be made. 
 In the two that follow, suppose we pro- 
 cure more pretentious accommodations on 
 a large first cabin ship and stop at hotels 
 more frequented by the traveling Amer- 
 ican. 
 
32 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 Trips Costing $^90-535 
 
 A trip of this caliber, visiting Ireland, 
 Scotland, England, Holland, Belgium and 
 France may be made, inclusively, for 
 $490. It may be arranged as follows: 
 $100 berth on a ship sailing from New 
 York and touching at Queenstown; then 
 to Cork and Blarney Castle; by rail to 
 Bantry and motor over to Parknasilla ; 
 one day there and by motor to Killarney ; 
 visiting the gap of Dunloe; by rail to 
 Dublin and a day there; by rail and 
 coach to Newcastle; rail to Belfast and 
 Portrush; a day at Portrush and the Gi- 
 ant's Causeway ; via Stranraer and Larne 
 to Glasgow; by rail, steamer and coach 
 through the Scottish Lakes and Tros- 
 sachs to Stirling and Edinburgh; two 
 days in Edinburgh ; to Melrose, Abbots- 
 ford, Carlisle and Keswick; coach to 
 Grasmere and Ambleside ; steamer to Win- 
 demere; one day in Windemere and on 
 the Lake; to Furness Abbey; to Chester 
 and on to Warwick; from Warwick by 
 coach to Stratford-on-Avon and back to 
 Kenilworth Castle; to Oxford and Lon- 
 don; two days in London and thence via 
 Harwich and the Hook of Holland to The 
 Hague; one day at The Hague and 
 Scheveningen ; to Amsterdam and the 
 Island of Marken, Volendam and Edam; 
 
Routes and Expenses 33 
 
 to Antwerp and Brussels; a day in Brus- 
 sels and then to Paris ; two days in Paris ; 
 then to Boulogne and embark on steamer 
 for New York ($90 berth). 
 
 For $535 exactly, including every ex- 
 pense except the tips on board the steamer 
 and purchases abroad, perhaps the most 
 pleasurable and most comprehensive two 
 months' trip through Europe may be ar- 
 ranged. Below is an outline of the route 
 and a summary of the points of interest 
 along it: 
 
 Leave Boston on first class steamship 
 ($90 berth) for Naples, calling en voy- 
 age at Ponta Delgada in the Azores, Ma- 
 deira, Gibraltar and Algiers, with time 
 enough ashore to see the interesting 
 things in each place. The four days al- 
 lowed to Naples will enable one to visit 
 Capri, Sorrento, Amalfi, Pompeii and 
 Vesuvius, not mentioning the Museum and 
 places of interest in Naples itself; two 
 days in Rome; a day in Florence and on 
 to Venice ; two days in Venice and a day in 
 Milan; to Lucerne via the St. Gothard 
 Tunnel; two days in Lucerne, with an ex- 
 cursion up the Rigi; via Meiringen and 
 Brienz to Interlaken; excursions from 
 there to Lauterbrunnen, Griindelwald 
 and the Jungfrau; to Heidelberg via 
 Berne and Basle; a day in Heidelberg 
 and on to Wiesbaden ; a day in Wiesbaden 
 
34 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 and then down the Rhine from Biebrich 
 to Cologne; to Amsterdam, with excur- 
 sions to Marken, Volendam and Edam; to 
 The Hague and Scheveningen ; to Ant- 
 werp; to Brussels; to Paris; four days in 
 Paris and the vicinity; to London via 
 Boulogne and Folkestone; two days in 
 London, sailing from there direct for 
 New York. 
 
II 
 
 ON BOARD 
 
 PLANNING is truly half the pleasure, 
 but the day will come at last when 
 that wonderful metaphorical bag of anti- 
 cipation bursts with a vengeance and be- 
 gins to scatter its good things along the 
 route of your holiday trip abroad. The 
 ship sails at noon. 
 
 Some time previously — let us hope it 
 has been quite a while, months, even, be- 
 cause first come first served is the way the 
 booking of passengers is handled by the 
 steamship companies — the delightful es- 
 sence of your prospective trip will have 
 crystallized into a glorious reality simply 
 by your mailing your check for $25 to 
 the steamship company as a bond of good 
 faith that you really wish to avail your- 
 self of , the accommodations selected. 
 Three weeks at least before the sailing 
 date you will have paid the remainder. 
 Prior to that time the company would 
 have paid back your $25 deposit on de- 
 mand, if something had turned up unex- 
 pectedly that compelled you to remain in 
 America. If the refund is asked for 
 within the three weeks before sailing, you 
 35 
 
36 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 will be obliged to wait until your accom- 
 modations have been re-sold by the com- 
 pany ; if this is not possible, your $25 
 deposit is lost. 
 
 It is also well to have decided definitely 
 when you will return from Europe and en- 
 gage this passage also before you start. 
 In the late summer and early fall there 
 is always a great demand for return pas- 
 sage to America, and many people are 
 compelled to remain on the other side 
 longer than they had expected, simply be- 
 cause they are unable to procure the ac- 
 commodations desired. Many companies 
 allow a certain discount if the traveler re- 
 turns by the same line. 
 
 The proper thing to do is to go on 
 board an hour or more before the steamer 
 is scheduled to leave the dock. It is wise 
 to visit the ship on the day previous, if 
 possible, and familiarize yourself with the 
 location of the stateroom, baths, and so 
 on. Stewards will be on duty to take you 
 over the ship and you will have time to 
 examine things a little more leisurely. 
 By doing so you can go to your room next 
 morning without being personally con- 
 ducted. 
 
 Disposal of Baggage 
 
 Tags and labels for baggage may be 
 procured from the steamship company at 
 
On Board 37 
 
 the time the ticket is issued. These bear 
 a large initial, according to the passen- 
 ger's last name, and space in which to 
 write your full name and number of state- 
 room, name of steamship and sailing date. 
 Some are marked "For the Hold," and 
 others, "Wanted." Paste one of the for- 
 mer on each end of every piece of baggage 
 not wanted in the stateroom, and tie a 
 tag marked "Wanted" on each piece of 
 baggage that may be needed during the 
 voyage. Baggage for the hold of the 
 ship should be sent so as to reach the dock 
 at least a day before sailing. It will be 
 found there when you arrive, and when 
 claimed, the baggage master of the line 
 will see that it is placed on board. State- 
 room baggage — steamer trunk, suit case, 
 roll of rugs, etc. — should accompany the 
 passenger to the dock the day of sailing, 
 and stewards will immediately take charge 
 of it and place it in the stateroom as 
 marked on the tags. 
 
 Do not attempt to unpack baggage to 
 any extent before the ship leaves the dock. 
 If you do, it is best to lock the stateroom 
 door when you go on deck, because the 
 steamship company is not responsible. It 
 warns the passengers to take every pre- 
 caution while the ship is in port and while 
 there are strangers and visitors of every 
 class aboard. Stateroom doors should 
 
38 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 not be locked during the voyage while the 
 occupant is on deck, but valuable jewelry 
 or other articles should be relegated to 
 the purser's care for safe keeping. 
 
 The Deck Chair 
 
 Upon your previous inspection of the 
 boat you may have had the foresight to 
 hunt up the deck steward, or his assistant, 
 and, after payment of the usual dollar, 
 have chosen the spot for your deck chair 
 for the voyage. This should be, prefer- 
 ably, on the trip to Europe, on the star- 
 board side — the right hand side of the 
 ship, looking toward the bow. Most cold 
 winds will come from the north, and by 
 being on the starboard side going over 
 and the port, or left, side coming back, 
 you will be protected. The chair will re- 
 main in the same spot throughout the voy- 
 age, unless there are so few passengers 
 that it may be moved about the deck at 
 will without discommoding anyone. If the 
 price of the deck chair was included in 
 your payment for passage at the com- 
 pany's office, the deck steward merely 
 wishes to have the receipt. 
 
 Bathing Arrangements. 
 
 Then there is the bath steward. It 
 seems to be an unwritten law at sea that 
 every passenger, if physically able to do 
 
On Board 39 
 
 so, should take a bath at least once a 
 day. So the bath steward is a mighty 
 important personage to interview. On 
 the day before sailing his bath schedule 
 will be undeveloped, and you may choose 
 your own hour, fifteen or twenty minutes 
 being allotted for each bath; the steward 
 will come to your room and notify you 
 each morning of the voyage when your 
 bath is ready. 
 
 It will be well to keep in mind the fact 
 that in traveling eastward each day will 
 be shorter by from a half to three-quar- 
 ters of an hour, due to the fact that you 
 are meeting the sun earlier than it ap- 
 pears to New York, for instance. The 
 difference in time between London and 
 New York is four hours, which are offi- 
 cially disposed of at sea by turning ahead, 
 on the eastward voyage, the hands of the 
 clock in the main gangway — usually at 
 about 10:30 each evening. On the re- 
 turn voyage they are turned back in the 
 same way. In setting the hour for your 
 bath, therefore, bear in mind the fact that 
 in going east, if you make it eight o'clock 
 and then retire without setting your own 
 watch, you will find yourself called at 
 about quarter past seven, which is rather 
 early rising on shipboard. On the re- 
 turn voyage, therefore, it will be well to 
 set the time a half to three-quarters of 
 
40 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 an hour earlier than your regular rising 
 time, for the same reason. 
 
 There will be a sufficient number of 
 bathrooms on board to accommodate ev- 
 erybody sometime, but if you wish the 
 choice of bath hours, apply early; the 
 earlier the better. If you wait until the 
 last minute the bath steward's schedule 
 will have been completed up until nine 
 o'clock in the morning or later — which is 
 almost too late to indulge before breakfast 
 in one of the most beneficial phases of an 
 ocean voyage. And what benefit or pleas- 
 ure is there in a cold salt plunge after 
 breakfast? 
 
 If unable to visit the ship the day be- 
 fore sailing, your deck chair and bath 
 should be arranged for as soon as possi- 
 ble after going on board. 
 
 Mail 
 
 The purser will have all mail addressed 
 to you in care of the ship, and he usually 
 details one of his assistants to preside at 
 the impromptu post-office in the saloon to 
 answer inquiries of the passengers. Flow- 
 ers and fruits sent to you to the ship are 
 placed on one of the tables in the dining 
 saloon, to be claimed by you, or are sent 
 to your own stateroom. Letters written 
 on board before the ship sails, or shortly 
 thereafter, to relatives and friends, if 
 
On Board 41 
 
 stamped and placed in the mail box to be 
 found in the main gangway, will be taken 
 off by the pilot when he leaves the ship 
 and mailed promptly ashore. A card 
 showing the hour of the pilot's departure 
 will be displayed conspicuously near the 
 mail box. 
 
 The Dining Saloon 
 
 After the excitement attendant upon 
 the slow and laborious process of leaving 
 the dock has subsided somewhat, it is best 
 to go "below" — meaning "downstairs" on 
 board of a ship — and arrange with the 
 steward, usually the second, who has that 
 department in charge, for your seat at 
 table in the dining saloon. You will oc- 
 cupy the same seat throughout the voy- 
 age, so it is well to obtain a location that 
 suits you. For those addicted to seasick- 
 ness, the nearer the entrance the better. 
 Most ships sail in the morning or at noon, 
 and for the first meal on board — lunch, in 
 this case — no seats in the saloon are allot- 
 ted, the passengers seating themselves as 
 they choose. 
 
 The captain's table in the dining saloon 
 is the table of honor. The seats to his 
 immediate right and left he usually dis- 
 poses of personally, after a perusal of the 
 sailing list, to intimates who may have 
 crossed with him before, or personal 
 
42 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 friends of himself or the company. The 
 remainder are at the disposal of the stew- 
 ard who attends to the seating. At the 
 captain's table it is proper and customary 
 to follow his example of dress at meals. 
 If he appears in full dress uniform at din- 
 ner, which he usually does, it is merely a 
 mark of respect for the gentlemen at his 
 table to appear in dinner coats, and the 
 ladies in more or less full dress evening 
 costume. Upon the evening of the day 
 of leaving port it is not probable that the 
 captain will be down to dinner, nor will 
 he appear when there is fog or when mak- 
 ing port. 
 
 And speaking of captains, there are 
 captains and captains. Some court the 
 society of their passengers, and some in 
 their manners hint of being chronic dys- 
 peptics. But the traveler must not ig- 
 nore the fact that all are efficient and able 
 navigators, else they would lose their li- 
 censes in no time. I know a captain in 
 one of the British lines — a member of the 
 Royal Naval Reserve and a young man 
 still in his thirties, but a navigator, a 
 seaman and a disciplinarian of the old 
 school ; more, he is a diplomat and brings 
 trade to his company. At the beginning 
 of every voyage the chief steward submits 
 to him a chart showing the seating and 
 the names of seat-holders in the dining 
 
On Board 43 
 
 saloon. This he looks over carefully be- 
 fore ever making his appearance at ta- 
 ble. Inside of a few meals he can name, 
 if the occasion demands, every seat-holder 
 in the saloon by merely looking about him, 
 and can pass a personal time of day with 
 everyone he meets on the decks. All of 
 which naturally makes a passenger feel at 
 home his first trip on the boat, and he will 
 put himself out to return with the same 
 captain. 
 
 I know another captain who would not 
 come near the dining saloon if his life de- 
 pended on it, and the voyage might be 
 completed without many of the passen- 
 gers surmising that he is on board at all. 
 By saying "good morning" to anyone he 
 would break faith with himself. Yet, with 
 a favored few he proves himself most con- 
 genial and entertaining. He is the most 
 bashful man in existence. 
 
 Just a word here to the wise is suffi- 
 cient: Don't ask the officers all the ques- 
 tions you can think of. Nobody but the 
 Lord above knows when the ship will dock, 
 or how long the fog will last, or the an- 
 swers to a thousand similar questions usu- 
 ally inflicted every voyage upon the cap- 
 tain and his men by unthinking passen- 
 gers. 
 
 They tell a story of the master of the 
 old Cunarder Etruria — than whom a 
 
44 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 better nor a gruffer seaman never 
 breathed salt air. 
 
 Upon one voyage across there had been 
 fog for about sixty hours straight run- 
 ning, during the whole of which time the 
 captain had been on the bridge under con- 
 stant strain without sleep or rest. 
 
 Among the passengers was an elderly 
 lady who soon became an inveterate ques- 
 tioner. Concerning the fog her curiosity 
 nearly consumed her. Unfortunately for 
 the captain, her deck chair was on the up- 
 per deck and right at the foot of the 
 ladder that led to the navigating bridge. 
 
 Suddenly one morning the ship came 
 out of the fog blanket, as though through 
 a wall, into fine, clear weather — a com- 
 mon phenomenon. The captain immedi- 
 ately left the bridge for a much needed 
 rest in his cabin, for the continuous duty 
 of almost three days and nights, with no 
 other stimulant than frequent cups of 
 strong coffee, had told on his nerves. 
 
 "Captain," greedily questioned the cu- 
 rious lady, as the "old man" stepped off 
 the bridge ladder on his way to his room, 
 "wasn't the fog terrible? Do you always 
 have it in this part of the ocean?" 
 
 Now, let me ask you, who under the blue 
 canopy of Heaven, after having been on 
 duty for sixty hours, could answer that 
 question with any degree of courtesy? 
 
On Board 45 
 
 Growled the captain: "How the 
 
 do I know, Madam? I don't live here." 
 
 Sometimes the bedroom or dining-room 
 steward will wax most loquacious and of- 
 fer all manner of information, no matter 
 whether solicited or not. Let it go in one 
 ear and out the other. It is surprising 
 how little the average steamship steward 
 these days knows about the sea. 
 
 For years I had a perverted idea that 
 the Rock of Gibraltar was on the African 
 side of the Straits. On my first voy- 
 age through the Straits, which happened 
 to be westward, the bedroom steward over- 
 heard my mentioning the fact that I in- 
 tended to behold this eighth wonder in 
 the annals of wanderlust, no matter what 
 the time of day or night we passed it. 
 Later I discovered that we were due to 
 pass through the Straits about daylight 
 of a certain morning. At the appointed 
 hour upon the said morning, when I was 
 peacefully oblivious to everything, even 
 pertaining to Gibraltar, the steward 
 knocked on the stateroom door with a ris- 
 ing inflection and announced that we were 
 about to pass the Rock. 
 
 My stateroom was on the starboard 
 side and I might easily have looked 
 through the port and beheld the "Gib" in 
 all its glory. Slipping on my overcoat 
 and slippers (one time in a thousand 
 
46 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 aboard ship when an overcoat makes an 
 elegant bathrobe), I hurried, nevertheless, 
 to the port side of the deck. It was still 
 dark, but I gazed with wonder upon the 
 huge black face of the rock (it was the 
 cliffs of Tangier) directly abeam, and, 
 although the thing didn't exactly resem- 
 ble a full-page insurance advertisement, 
 I was none the less duly impressed. To 
 make it doubly realistic, a number of ta- 
 ble stewards standing by the rail assured 
 me that it was the "Gib" we were all so 
 worked up about. Suddenly my bedroom 
 steward whispered into my ear that "Gib- 
 raltar might be seen to a better advantage 
 from the starboard side of the ship, sir." 
 Whereupon, the group of table stewards, 
 every one of whom had certainly been 
 through the Straits at least a dozen times, 
 profited by the tip as well as myself. 
 
 On deck, later in the day, an acquaint- 
 ance whose room was on the port side of 
 the ship and who also had evidently 
 pledged the memory of his old geography 
 teacher to see Gibraltar at all costs, said 
 that his steward had awakened him, but 
 that he had remained comfortably in his 
 bunk and seen the magnificent sight 
 through the porthole. 
 
 Such is the fallacy of boyish impres- 
 sions, not to mention dining saloon navi- 
 gation. 
 
On Board 47 
 
 Fees on Shipboard 
 
 The passenger is expected to appro- 
 priate a certain amount of his money to 
 the payment of fees on board, and the 
 extent of the sum is in direct ratio to the 
 courtesies, which ought to be duties, he 
 receives at the hands of the various stew- 
 ards. Some of these steamship stewards 
 draw in salary from the company that 
 employs them as little as a shilling a week ; 
 some, I am told, receive nothing. The 
 work of a steamship steward is of the 
 hardest kind and he really deserves every 
 cent that the passenger gives him; but 
 because he deserves it from a passen- 
 ger is no argument against his deserving 
 a decent wage from the company. He is 
 practically on duty continuously from 
 the beginning to the end of the voyage, 
 and while in port he has to clean the rooms 
 and put things in shape for a new ship- 
 load of passengers. 
 
 For the benefit of the uninitiated, a 
 brief schedule of the fees expected will not 
 be out of place: A table steward expects 
 $2.50, or its equivalent in the coin of any 
 realm, from each passenger whom he 
 serves in the dining saloon. The steward 
 who attends to your stateroom expects a 
 like amount. For this he will bring fruit 
 to your room every morning before break- 
 fast, and do a hundred and one little serv- 
 
48 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 ices of a like sort. Some travelers there 
 be who give more, but this is neither clever 
 nor necessary, and only holds the donor 
 up to ridicule in the eye of the steward. 
 The room steward also attends to the 
 stateroom baggage and takes it ashore 
 and places it under the proper initial for 
 customs inspection. The bath steward 
 expects one dollar from each regular 
 bather. No baths ; no dollar. A gentle- 
 man traveler, if he frequents the smoking 
 room, may fee the steward who attends to 
 that department one dollar, and that is 
 a very liberal gratuity. A lady traveler, 
 if on account of illness during the voy- 
 age she requires the attentions of the 
 stewardess, will be expected to fee her in 
 addition to the room steward — usually 
 one dollar, unless the passenger be con- 
 fined to her bed and the stewardess is 
 obliged to serve meals in the stateroom. 
 One dollar is a liberal allowance for the 
 deck steward to reimburse him for taking 
 care of your rugs and chair cushions at 
 night and seeing to your comfort on the 
 decks. If he serves your meals on deck, 
 in case of illness, he expects more, in pro- 
 portion to his services. He it is who, in 
 case of necessity, will bring you the usual 
 menu from which you may select and have 
 served to you on the deck anything tempt- 
 ing that the card may suggest. 
 
On Board 49 
 
 These are the necessary fees, and the 
 amounts apply, for the most part, on "one 
 cabin" ships as well as first ; although two 
 traveling together on the "one cabin" 
 boats can reduce the fees slightly per per- 
 son. 
 
 But there is a host of other servants 
 on the first class boats who stand in your 
 way conspicuously at the end of the voy- 
 age. The chief steward will often expect 
 anything from a dollar up, according to 
 his attentions and the size of your party. 
 The second steward on most large ships 
 is the "head waiter," and can order any- 
 thing not on the menu to be cooked for 
 you especially, if you do not mind feeing 
 him in proportion to his attentions. If 
 the ship carries a band, you are expected 
 to subscribe — from a quarter to fifty cents 
 is sufficient. On many ships the band 
 draws no salary whatever. If there is a 
 gymnasium on board and you ride the 
 camel occasionally, you are expected to 
 fee the instructor to the extent of from 
 a quarter to fifty cents. If you play 
 deck games, the deck sailor on some of the 
 ships will anticipate a little something for 
 his trouble of chalking out the deck for 
 shuffleboard or deck golf, or obtaining for 
 you the implements with which to play. 
 If you read the ship's books, the library 
 steward expects a quarter at least. On 
 
50 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 the smaller boats — the 
 boats, for example — the aforementioned 
 necessary fees will suffice, and even these 
 hold only when the service has been satis- 
 factory. Under no circumstances should 
 the passenger pay his fees before the ter- 
 mination of the voyage. 
 
 Service 
 
 To have laundry done on board is not 
 often possible, except in the case of a 
 long cruise, and then it is neither 
 cheap nor of the best workmanship. I 
 have paid as high as six cents per hand- 
 kerchief. If absolutely necessary, how- 
 ever, the bedroom steward will attend to 
 it. On some ships passengers' shoes will 
 be cleaned during the night if left outside 
 the stateroom door upon retiring, but 
 neither is this service often necessary. 
 To indulge daily in having your shoes 
 cleaned will prompt "Boots" — the nom de 
 shine the English give him — to solicit a 
 fifty-cent fee. The services of the ship's 
 doctor are free to those suffering from 
 seasickness. If the passenger is suffering 
 from an ailment contracted before board- 
 ing the steamer, the doctor will attend the 
 case at a rate which he himself determines, 
 usually the rate paid for such services 
 ashore. The doctor is responsible for the 
 state of health of the first and second class 
 
On Board 51 
 
 passengers, and his certificate is accepted 
 by the port authorities so that these pas- 
 sengers may land without medical exam- 
 ination as soon as the ship docks, unless 
 dangerous contagious diseases are discov- 
 ered aboard during the voyage. Smok- 
 ing is permitted on board of a ship on any 
 of the decks and, of course, in the smok- 
 ing room; never in the gangways nor 
 staterooms. 
 
 Wines, beer and mineral waters may be 
 had by signing a card, the aggregate bills 
 being presented at the end of the voyage. 
 Cigars and cigarettes may be obtained 
 from the smoking room steward, and at 
 very reasonable prices, for he does not 
 carry them ashore and he has no duty to 
 pay. Most steamship companies order 
 their cigars wholesale direct from the man- 
 ufacturer. The smoking room steward 
 will also have a cribbage board or two, 
 chessmen and board, etc., which may be 
 borrowed from him by the passengers. 
 
 Deck Sports 
 
 There is a variety of deck games and 
 sports on board of a ship in which the 
 passenger may indulge as often as he sees 
 fit. Perhaps the most popular is shuffle- 
 board, the playing of which is not intri- 
 cate enough to demand an explanation. 
 Often there is held a shuffleboard tourna- 
 
52 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 ment. There is also deck golf, a rather 
 crude imitation of the original, owing to 
 the limited deck space; deck tennis, swing 
 bars, and quoits. On many of the liners 
 where the plan of the ship has provided 
 liberal deck space, there usually takes 
 place a sort of an athletic carnival, or 
 "Field Day," near the end of the voy- 
 age. The small entrance fees to the va- 
 rious events are devoted to the purchase 
 of prizes from the ship's barber, who has 
 a regular curiosity shop, selling a variety 
 of articles from a soft traveling cap to a 
 Teddy bear. "Field Day" permits the 
 promulgation of all known varieties of 
 mild athletic contests, from threading the 
 needle to the tug-of-war. 
 
 Social Entertainments 
 
 Aboard some of the larger boats a cer- 
 tain protected portion of the deck is 
 screened off with weather cloths, deco- 
 rated with the ship's code flags and the 
 enclosed portion of deck powdered with a 
 preparation of wax. Here dances are held 
 in the evenings when the weather is fine. 
 
 Most British ships terminate the social 
 phases of the voyage with what is called 
 the "concert," consisting of an evening of 
 prearranged full dress entertainment in 
 the saloon. Anyone among the passen- 
 gers who is endowed, or nearly so, with 
 
On Board 53 
 
 even a molecule of talent, is supposed to 
 contribute voluntarily to the success of 
 the evening. On some of the smaller and 
 slower boats — notably those sailing from 
 or to Philadelphia — half the passenger 
 lists include the names of many well-known 
 professional people not above the desire 
 to help out at the "concert" to the best 
 of their several abilities. To this momen- 
 tous event a small admission is ordinarily 
 charged, and printed programs sold, the 
 proceeds from which are added to the 
 maintenance fund for disabled British and 
 American sailors, their widows and or- 
 phans. 
 
 On German boats, principally, the cul- 
 minating social event takes the form of 
 the captain's dinner, usually upon the 
 last evening before making port. For this 
 reason alone the function is not very aptly 
 named, inasmuch as the supposed host, 
 swamped with the responsibilities of the 
 hour, does not often appear. However, 
 this puts no curb to the gayety of the oc- 
 casion. All hands are expected to look 
 their sweetest, and the table decorations 
 and extent of the menu fall nothing short 
 of a banquet. 
 
 Other Amusements 
 
 Posted in the smoking room may be 
 found one or more pools on the day's run, 
 
54 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 which terminates at noon. Each of these 
 pools may require the same or a different 
 entrance fee. There are ten entrants to 
 each pool, each entrant choosing a num- 
 ber from to 9 not already selected. He 
 pays his fee — the lowest is usually a dol- 
 lar — to the smoking room steward, who 
 places his name opposite the number cho- 
 sen on the list. The last figure of the 
 day's run as officially posted determines 
 who wins the pool. For example: A man 
 writes his name opposite number 7 on the 
 pool list. If the official number of miles 
 in the' day's run ends with a 7, such as 
 417, he wins the pool, consisting of $10, 
 including his own entrance fee, if that fee 
 has been one dollar. Out of this the 
 smoking room steward expects a small 
 gratuity, and the remainder sometimes 
 goes to provide refreshments for the nine 
 losers. There may be two or three sep- 
 arate pools posted for each day's run, and 
 a person may enter both or all, using the 
 same or different numbers, upon payment 
 of the required fees. Often the last day's 
 pool on the luxurious liners demands a $10 
 or even a $25 entrance fee. 
 
 To indulge with any freedom in the 
 auction pools comes a little higher. The 
 method of procedure is as follows: 
 
 Suppose the lowest day's run that the 
 ship ever made on any voyage was 360 
 
On Board 55 
 
 miles, and that the highest day's run was 
 420. Her average run, therefore, will be 
 somewhere between 380 and 400 miles. 
 Twenty men will be inveigled, of their 
 own volition, of course, to deposit $1, 
 $5, $10, or whatever entrance fee happens 
 to have been determined upon. This de- 
 posit is merely for the privilege of draw- 
 ing one of the twenty slips of paper, each 
 labeled with a number from 380 to 400. 
 After all are drawn, each number is auc- 
 tioned off to the highest bidder. For in- 
 stance, if a person draws the number 392, 
 he may or may not have to bid for it to 
 retain it, according to whether or not 
 anyone else considers that this number has 
 a better chance of coinciding with the 
 number of miles run. If he bids high 
 enough he retains it and pays the price 
 of his bid in addition to his entrance de- 
 posit. After the numbers have been auc- 
 tioned separately, the total numbers be- 
 tween 400 and 420, the "high field," are 
 auctioned off to the highest bidder, and 
 the total numbers between 380 and 360, 
 the "low field," are disposed of in the 
 same manner. Thus, the same person 
 may bid in the "high" and the "low fields" 
 in addition to several numbers. It may 
 cost him some money, but it is entirely 
 permissible — even encouraged. The per- 
 son who has bid in the number which co- 
 
56 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 incides with the official number of miles 
 in the day's run, as posted at noon, wins. 
 If the pool has commenced at 380, as in 
 the above example, and if the day's run 
 has been a number of miles below 380, 
 the pool goes to the man who bid in the 
 "low field." If, under the same "condi- 
 tions precedent," as they say in play 
 writing, the posted run is a number of 
 miles above 400, the pool goes to him who 
 bid in the "high field." 
 
 Auction pools are expensive divertisse- 
 ments. 
 
in 
 
 ARRIVAL IN EUROPE 
 
 Passing the Customs 
 
 COMPARED with New York, the 
 matter of passing the customs in- 
 spector in any port or frontier station of 
 the Old World is a veritable sinecure. 
 The advantages (which there certainly 
 are) and disadvantages (which there 
 have been proven to be) of our tariff sys- 
 tem are moot questions and not for dis- 
 cussion in these pages. Be this as it may ; 
 if the customs examinations at the ports 
 of entry or frontiers of the several coun- 
 tries of Europe were as rigorous and ex- 
 acting as our own, many Americans, af- 
 ter having experienced about six of such, 
 would think twice before making a second 
 tour through Europe with a greater num- 
 ber of encumbrances than a camisa de 
 noche and whatever the Spanish is for a 
 hair comb. 
 
 In most countries on the other side 
 merely a perfunctory examination of the 
 traveler's baggage is made, especially 
 that of an American traveler, who is gen- 
 erally assumed to be bent upon sight-see- 
 ing and not smuggling. 
 57 
 
58 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 Travelers' personal effects are allowed 
 to enter all countries duty free. To- 
 bacco, spirits, wine or matches, beyond 
 the ordinary amounts to be used on a 
 journey, are dutiable in most European 
 countries. Patent medicines are subject 
 to duty in France ; in Germany they are 
 on the free list, except pills in suspi- 
 ciously large quantities. Germany also 
 taboos perfumery and matches in any 
 quantity, and growing plants; but since 
 no one craves the companionship of a pot- 
 ted geranium on a trip through Europe, 
 this latter warning may be ignored. In 
 Portugal but one bottle of patent medi- 
 cine passes free of duty, while in Eng- 
 land the American reprint of a book copy- 
 righted in England is liable to confisca- 
 tion. Military rifles are not permitted 
 to pass into any country, and for sport- 
 ing guns a duty according to weight 
 must be paid in Germany, Belgium and 
 Portugal. In order to take a rifle or 
 shotgun through Spain a permit from the 
 Civil Governor of each District must first 
 be obtained. 
 
 No traveler, however, need have any 
 fear of being compelled to pay duty in 
 any European country upon such impedi- 
 menta as are pertinent to the journey. 
 
 The most expedient method of passing 
 any customs inspection, in Europe as 
 
Arrival in Europe 59 
 
 well as America, is to see first that all 
 your baggage has been placed together 
 on the dock or in the frontier station. 
 Unlock the trunks so that the lids may 
 be raised easily upon a moment's notice. 
 Open wide the hand luggage so that the 
 inspector may assume at a glance that 
 you are not a smuggler. In most ports 
 it is wise to button-hole an idle inspector 
 yourself and lead him to your baggage 
 the minute it has been brought ashore, 
 or tell the porter to do this for you. If 
 you have nothing dutiable and reply to 
 that effect when questioned by the in- 
 spector it is doubtful if he will wish to 
 disturb your packing in the slightest. 
 He may go as far as to lift the lid of one 
 trunk ; he may not even look at your hand 
 luggage. If you have dutiable articles, 
 say so, and show them to the official. 
 This expedites the examination consider- 
 ably, and the inspector may possibly be 
 more lenient. 
 
 I once entered England through the 
 port of Queensboro with two boxes con- 
 taining fifty Dutch cigars each — one box 
 of fifty being the legal limit. The seals 
 on these were broken. My reply to the 
 inspector when he asked me if I had any 
 dutiable articles was, yes, a hundred 
 Dutch cigars for my own enjoyment and 
 consumption and that I expected to take 
 
60 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 whatever were unconsumed, if any, on 
 board the steamer when I set sail again for 
 America. He said he would have to see 
 them, and I showed them, having placed 
 them conveniently on top of the packing. 
 He asked me if my wife wasn't traveling 
 with me, and I said she was. Then he 
 asked me if one of these boxes of cigars 
 wasn't hers, and I grasped the kindly 
 hint and said it was, of course, certainly 
 — all the while trying to imagine any in- 
 spector mean enough to ask me to have 
 her give a demonstration to prove it. 
 But I paid no duty. 
 
 At the frontier stations on the Conti- 
 nent the heavy baggage will be taken out 
 of the car and into the customs house at 
 the depot, the train waiting a sufficient 
 time for the passengers to have their bag- 
 gage inspected and put back aboard the 
 car. On the express trains hand bag- 
 gage need not be taken out. It will be 
 examined in the cars. Have it off the 
 racks and opened, and the inspector may 
 merely touch his cap to you. 
 
 Anyone who is willing to allow a per- 
 fectly respectable looking suit case or ex- 
 pensive handbag to be plastered up with 
 hotel advertisements — I suppose I am too 
 commercial — should never be arbitrary 
 concerning a customs inspector's chalk 
 mark. Once I came in contact with such 
 
Arrival in Europe 61 
 
 a person in the examination room at 
 Folkestone. Judging by her grips she 
 was a peripatetic catalogue of all the 
 hotels in Europe. In her hand she car- 
 ried a new shawl strap containing a thin 
 steamer rug. This, together with her 
 other baggage, the inspector marked with 
 chalk to signify its having passed his ex- 
 amination. With quite some temper and 
 very little discretion the lady rubbed the 
 chalk mark off. With just as much tem- 
 per and as little discretion the inspector 
 snatched the shawl strap and marked it 
 a second time. The second chalk mark 
 was rubbed off even more violently. The 
 lady started through the door, but the 
 doorkeeper, seeing that she carried a par- 
 cel which bore no chalk mark and which, 
 for this reason, had obviously not been 
 passed by the inspector, refused to let 
 her through. I had a train to catch and 
 did not wait to see the outcome, but if 
 she has arrived wherever she was going 
 she must have suffered her shawl strap 
 to submit to the chalk mark. 
 
 Baggage Arrangements 
 
 Passengers' heavy baggage, up to the 
 usual limit of free allowance on British 
 railways, may be registered from the 
 landing stage at the port of entry to any 
 address in London upon payment of six- 
 
62 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 pence (twelve cents) for each piece. The 
 address to which it is to be delivered must 
 be marked plainly upon it. The owner 
 receives a receipt. This system of reg- 
 istration — a distant relative of our 
 method of checking baggage — relieves the 
 traveler of transferring it from one 
 station to another or across the city. 
 It will be shipped on the same train, 
 where practicable, as that taken by its 
 owner. The registration of baggage 
 from England to any continental city 
 saves the passenger all trouble and ex- 
 pense of paying harbor dues and convey- 
 ing it between train and boat, or vice 
 versa; it also secures an allowance of 
 fifty-six pounds free of charge on the rail- 
 ways, and also the privilege of paying be- 
 fore departure the charge for excess, if 
 any, according to the fixed through rate. 
 The charge for this continental regis- 
 tration varies from fourpence (eight 
 cents) per package to a shilling (twenty- 
 four cents) per passenger, according to 
 the cross-Channel route. 
 
 The baggage checking system on Brit- 
 ish railroads is pathetic — because there is 
 none. If a traveler chooses to look after 
 his own trunk on the run "up" to London 
 — which is "down" from Liverpool — he 
 must give it into the care of a porter and 
 see that it is properly labeled with the 
 
Arrival in Europe 63 
 
 name of the station in London (Padding- 
 ton, Euston, or other terminus) and 
 placed in the baggage car, or "luggage 
 van," as they say in England. The pas- 
 senger receives no check or the least 
 assurance that it will reach the end of 
 the journey simultaneously with the 
 owner, or even at all. At the end of the 
 trip, instead of being wheeled into the 
 baggage room, it is dumped upon the pas- 
 senger platform to be sorted out and 
 claimed by its owner. The baggage men 
 have no way of knowing that this or that 
 or any other trunk belongs to you. The 
 registration system obtains generally on 
 the Continent ; but it is far better to leave 
 all heavy baggage in storage at the base 
 of operations and do your real traveling 
 with suit cases and hand baggage. 
 
 Baggage Regulations 
 
 There is no free allowance of baggage 
 made by the German railway administra- 
 tion, with the exception of certain parts 
 of North Germany, which control the fif- 
 teen "luggage zones" into which the coun- 
 try is divided. The charges for its 
 transportation, however, are reduced ac- 
 cording to the number of railway tickets 
 issued. No definite rates are obtainable ; 
 they are no more proportionately than 
 those of other countries, and the traveler 
 
64 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 will have to take the baggage man's word 
 for them. 
 
 Transportation Charges 
 
 Neither is there a free allowance made 
 on the Dutch, Belgium nor Italian rail- 
 ways ; on the other hand, passengers 
 holding ordinary through tickets to Aus- 
 tria, Belgium, France, Holland, Hun- 
 gary, Russia, Spain and Switzerland are 
 allowed 56 pounds of free baggage per 
 ticket if it is registered. Throughout 
 England, Ireland and Scotland 120 
 pounds of baggage may be transported 
 free on an ordinary first class railway 
 ticket, 100 pounds on a second class 
 ticket, and as much on a third, if the 
 porter who handles it be surreptitiously 
 slipped a small fee. In France 66 
 pounds are taken free; the charges in ex- 
 cess of this are based upon one centime 
 per 20 kilograms per kilometer, or, in 
 plain English, approximately three- 
 eighths of a cent per 44 pounds per mile 
 — one kilogram equaling about two and 
 one-fifth pounds, and one kilometer, 
 nearly five-eighths of a mile. 
 
 In Belgium no free baggage, except 
 that carried in the hand to the extent of 
 55 pounds, is allowed. The rate for its 
 transportation is about one and one-half 
 centimes per 25 kilograms per kilometer, 
 
Arrival in Europe 65 
 
 which is about three-fifths of a cent for 
 56 pounds a mile. 
 
 Holland likewise puts the ban on free 
 baggage, the rates varying on the basis 
 of 22 pounds from two cents (5 Dutch 
 cents) for twelve and one-half miles (20 
 kilometers) to 20 cents (45 Dutch cents) 
 for 250 miles (400 kilometers). 
 
 Austria also reckons its baggage rates, 
 for amounts above 66 pounds, upon the 
 basis of 22 pounds, and this amount costs 
 about one-twelfth of one American cent 
 for five-eighths of a mile. In Switzerland 
 the rate is one-tenth of a cent for the 
 same amount for a like distance. 
 
 Italy allows no free baggage. The 
 rates of transportation are involved and 
 complicated, a minute table of which will 
 be found on the page before the time-ta- 
 bles of the Italian railways in Brad- 
 shaw's Continental Railway Guide — an 
 inexpensive book procurable abroad which 
 no independent traveler should be with- 
 out. Throughout Spain and Portugal 
 sixty-six pounds is the usual free allow- 
 ance. 
 
 Shipping Baggage 
 
 The baggage master on board the 
 steamer will contract to ship your bag- 
 gage in advance between ports served by 
 the line. Thus, if you land in Genoa and 
 
66 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 wish your trunk to be sent to England 
 to await your arrival after traveling 
 leisurely up through Europe, the bag- 
 gage master on board the ship will take 
 charge of it, sending it by a boat of the 
 same line or combination of lines — most 
 likely one touching Genoa on the return 
 voyage from the Far East — to the Brit- 
 ish port of call — Plymouth or South- 
 ampton, as the case may be. Here it will 
 be stored until you notify the steamship 
 agent to which city you wish it sent. 
 The charge for this service varies accord- 
 ing to the weight of the trunk — $2.00 be- 
 ing an average estimate, but not includ- 
 ing express charges from the British port 
 to London or other city. 
 
 Baggage in advance is also handled by 
 the several tourist companies and by the 
 English firms of Pickford, Carter Patter- 
 son, The London Package Delivery Co., 
 and the American Express, representatives 
 of each being found in almost every depot 
 abroad. Through any of these baggage 
 may be called for at a hotel in any city 
 and forwarded to any hotel in any other 
 city, or held in storage for you. It may 
 be shipped by ordinary freight or express 
 vitesse. By ordinary freight it will take 
 a trunk a month or more to climb through 
 Europe from a Mediterranean port to 
 England, but it will be only half as ex- 
 
Arrival in Europe 67 
 
 pensive as express Vitesse. The charge 
 for this latter service will be about one- 
 half of a second class passenger fare for 
 one small trunk. 
 
 In all cases when baggage is shipped in 
 advance, trunk keys are demanded by the 
 forwarding agents so that it may be ex- 
 amined by the customs inspector of the 
 country to which it is consigned. Addi- 
 tional expense may be incurred by insur- 
 ing the baggage against fire, shipwreck, 
 etc. 
 
 Railway Information 
 
 At every railway and steamship ter- 
 minal throughout Europe uniformed in- 
 terpreters are on duty, some employed by 
 the line itself and some by the tourist 
 companies, who are perfectly capable of 
 giving authentic information as to the 
 leaving time of trains, baggage, hotels, 
 points of interest, and so on. Included 
 in a galaxy of languages, these interpre- 
 ters invariably speak English, and they 
 expect a small fee from the party accom- 
 modated. The "runners" of all the prin- 
 cipal hotels, sent to meet trains and who 
 solicit business, also speak English more 
 or less fluently. 
 
 Porters, Cabs and Tips 
 
 Uniformed porters meet trains through- 
 
68 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 out the whole of Europe and will carry 
 passengers' baggage to or from the train 
 and the cab. To secure the services of 
 a porter on entering a station is no trick 
 whatever ; as the train moves in simply 
 lower the window sash of the compart- 
 ment and beckon to one as he stands in 
 line on the platform. He will follow 
 your compartment until the train comes 
 to a stop, will hop in, and, after unload- 
 ing the baggage from the racks overhead, 
 will slip his carrying strap through the 
 different handles, and walk off. For this 
 service he should always receive a fee 
 amounting to not more than the local 
 equivalent of five American cents for each 
 piece. In England this will be about 
 three-pence; in Germany 20 pfennigen; 
 in France 25 centimes; in Italy 25 cen- 
 tesimi, and so on. The duties of the por- 
 ter include calling a cab for his patrons. 
 Usually the money taken in by the porters 
 is handed to a collector, who makes his 
 rounds several times a day and divides the 
 amount equally among them. 
 
 Cabs of all kinds and many vintages 
 will be found at all railway stations and 
 steamship docks. The horse-drawn and 
 motor taxicabs are now generally in evi- 
 dence. Their introduction has been a 
 boon to the traveling American, who in 
 years past was compelled to waste valu- 
 
Arrival in Europe 69 
 
 able time in dickering and bargaining, 
 only to feel after all his trouble that he 
 had been fleeced. The taxicabs — whose 
 meters are regularly inspected by the mu- 
 nicipal authorities almost everywhere — 
 preclude all this. One or two European 
 countries have yet to see them put into 
 operation — Holland, for example, where 
 the cab rates are high and where the driv- 
 ers often connive with the hotel porters to 
 squeeze the top prices from patrons. 
 Taxicab rates abroad, however, are low. 
 In London the cabs not equipped with 
 taximeters contain a card showing the 
 rates for certain distances. 
 
 Purchasing Railroad Tickets 
 
 Local railway tickets between one town 
 and another, single fares and return, are 
 best procured at the ticket windows at 
 the railway stations precisely as we do 
 in America. Through tickets or tickets 
 covering a whole tour are most advan- 
 tageously purchased from one of the re- 
 liable tourist companies or from the rail- 
 road of whose special rate tour you avail 
 yourself. The tickets will be offered at 
 the lowest rates and the purchaser may 
 seek the advice of an experienced man as 
 to routes, and so on. If you have de- 
 cided upon your route before sailing, 
 tickets covering it in toto may be pur- 
 
70 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 chased from the steamship company or 
 from the agent of one of the large tourist 
 concerns in this country. If landing in 
 England it is best to buy the steamship 
 ticket through to London, thus taking 
 advantage of the reduced railway rate 
 from the port offered by the steamship 
 company. 
 
 Time-tables 
 
 Every British railroad from London to 
 any of the Channel ports issues reliable 
 books of time-tables of through trains to 
 the Continent and between the principal 
 cities. These are usually sold for a 
 small amount and not given away as they 
 are in America. But perhaps the most 
 comprehensive books of both local and 
 long distance time-tables, containing dili- 
 gence routes, advice as to hotels and a 
 wealth of other information for the trav- 
 eler, are the paper-bound books known 
 as "Bradshaws." One of these, the 
 "British Bradshaw," deals with British 
 railways, steamship sailings and every- 
 thing of information to the traveler per- 
 taining to the British Isles. It may be 
 bought at any railway terminal or tourist 
 office for a sixpence. The "Continental 
 Bradshaw" is larger and more expensive. 
 It costs fifty cents, and a better edition, 
 more securely bound and containing maps 
 
Arrival in Europe 71 
 
 of the various countries, costs three shill- 
 ings (about seventy-five cents). The 
 "Bradshaws" are issued monthly and 
 they are authentic and up to date in the 
 matters of time-tables and rates. It is 
 quite the most important article in every 
 "first aid to the traveler" kit. Of course, 
 being a British publication, it is printed 
 in English. There are reliable French, 
 German and Dutch time-tables, too, but 
 these are printed in the language of the 
 country of whose railways they treat, and 
 are not of the wide scope of the "Brad- 
 shaw;" but they are more specific as to 
 the different methods of conveyance and 
 may be used to advantage in a country 
 through which a particularly thorough 
 tour is being made. 
 
 In Belgium, Spain and Italy, railway 
 time is reckoned from one o'clock (which 
 is one a. m.) to 24 o'clock (which is 12 
 o'clock midnight). This is at first a 
 little confusing to the American, but if 
 he will remember that the numeral 12 
 must be subtracted from any hour 
 greater than 12 in order to ascertain the 
 p. m. hour, he will soon become accustomed 
 to it. 
 
 Economical Ways to Travel 
 
 With regard to economical ways to 
 travel it must be remembered that, dis- 
 
72 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 tance for distance, boat travel is always 
 cheaper than on the railways. If you 
 would save money in travel — not exactly 
 save it, but spend less — patronize the 
 smaller hotels which cater to the native 
 element. It may be a difficult matter for 
 some of us to refrain from bragging about 
 being Yankees (the common name abroad 
 for all Americans), but the moment we do 
 we will be charged accordingly. Certain 
 hotels in Paris and London are no 
 cheaper than the most fashionable hotels 
 in New York. The reason is that their 
 patrons are mainly Americans used to 
 paying exorbitant prices for everything. 
 And it is not an uncommon occurrence 
 that the European gets a lower rate at 
 these same hotels. 
 
 Circular Tour Tickets. 
 
 The number of independent circular 
 tours that may be made through Europe 
 is legion. Possibly those of the widest 
 scope tap the countries included in the so- 
 called Rundreise Union. The word run- 
 dreise really means a circular tour or 
 "round trip," but the Rundreise ticket is 
 issued between any points within the 
 Union, providing a certain distance is 
 traveled. The traveler may go as far as 
 he likes — clear to Constantinople, if he 
 wishes — and double back by the same or 
 
Arrival in Europe 73 
 
 a different route within the time limit and 
 so long as he doesn't wish to carry other 
 than hand baggage. 
 
 A Rundreise tour of Holland or Bel- 
 gium, providing it covers at least 249 
 miles (400 kilometers) in length, may be 
 commenced at Flushing and ended at the 
 Hook of Holland or Rotterdam or Am- 
 sterdam or Ostend or Antwerp, or it may 
 be commenced at any of these points and 
 ended at the starting point or any other. 
 In the case of a tour confined to Belgium, 
 the only condition is that the journey 
 must include a complete circuit of not less 
 than 155 miles (250 kilometers). 
 Throughout the Rundreise Union these 
 tickets may be issued for a straight re- 
 turn or a circular journey if a minimum 
 distance of 373 miles (600 kilometers) is 
 covered when the validity of the tickets is 
 60 days; 1,865 miles (3,000 kilometers) 
 when the validity is 90 days ; and 3,107 
 miles (5,000 kilometers) when the validity 
 is four months. Providing a distance of 
 373 miles is covered, Rundreise tickets 
 may be issued over any route for a wholly 
 German tour, either straight, return or 
 circular, but in this case the journey must 
 end at the starting point. 
 
 The holder of a Rundreise may stop 
 off where and as often as he will, and by 
 its use he will save twenty to thirty per 
 
74 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 cent, of the single fares covering the same 
 route. The countries included in this 
 Union are France, Belgium, Holland, Ger- 
 many, Austro-Hungary, Switzerland, part 
 of Italy, all of Scandinavia, the Balkan 
 States and Turkey. The tickets are 
 valid for any and all seasons, the only 
 conditions being those of traveling the re- 
 quired distance within the time limit and 
 with no allowance of free baggage. 
 
 During the summer months the varie- 
 ties of Continental circular tickets offered 
 by the English railroads and the various 
 tourist agencies are too numerous to men- 
 tion in detail. The rates of these are 
 considerably cheaper than single fares. 
 
 Season Tickets 
 
 Several Continental countries issue 
 what are called season tickets, valid for 
 from five to forty-five days and good over 
 all the railway lines in that country at 
 any and all times within the time limit. 
 For example, a person may travel over 
 the whole Belgian railway system (2,890 
 miles) for five days and nights continu- 
 ously for the sum of $2.35 (11.75 francs) 
 third class ; $4.10 (20.50 francs) second 
 class ; or $6.15 (30.75 francs) first class. 
 Tickets good for fifteen days may be had 
 at double the above prices. An un- 
 mounted photograph of the holder, meas- 
 
Arrival in Europe 75 
 
 uring an inch and a half square, must be 
 supplied to be affixed to the ticket, and a 
 deposit of a dollar is also required, which 
 will be refunded, at any Belgian railway- 
 station if the ticket be given up not later 
 than twelve o'clock noon on the day fol- 
 lowing the last date for which the ticket 
 is valid. These tickets are obtained on 
 short notice in England from the agencies 
 of Dean and Dawson, John Frame, the 
 Belgian Mail Packet Company, or the 
 London and Northwestern Railway. Sev- 
 enteen-day excursion tickets between 
 London and Ostend are issued in connec- 
 tion with the Belgian season tickets for 
 about $10, $7.50, or $5, first, second or 
 third class respectively. Additional 
 rules and regulations for the holders of 
 these tickets will be supplied by the agents. 
 Tourist season tickets, available over 
 most of the Swiss railways (mountain lines 
 not included) are issued for periods of 
 15, 30 or 45 days at the rates of $17, first 
 class ; $12, second class ; $9, third class 
 for the 15-day tickets — $25, first class ; 
 $18, second class ; $15, third class for the 
 30-day tickets — $33, first class; $23, 
 second class ; $17, third class for the 45- 
 day tickets. An unmounted photograph 
 of the purchaser is also required in Swit- 
 zerland. So, in this country where the 
 promotion of touring is one of the princi- 
 
76 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 pal industries of the people, it is possible 
 for a person to travel for a year at a cost 
 of forty cents a day, first class. In Lon- 
 don these season tickets may be procured 
 from the general agency of the Swiss 
 Federal Railways. Season books on the 
 Swiss Lake boats are issued at low rates. 
 Distance Tickets. 
 
 Distance railway tickets (akin to our 
 mileage books) are issued by the Spanish 
 railroad companies for travel over a dis- 
 tance of from 1,243 miles (2,000 kilo- 
 meters) to 7,458 miles (12,000 kilome- 
 ters). The charges for these are from 
 about $30 (165 pesetas) first class, and 
 $22 (121 pesetas) second class, for the 
 shortest distance, to $158 (792 pesetas) 
 first class, and $120 (607 pesetas), second 
 class, for the longest distance. They are 
 valid for from three months to a year. 
 
 Special Tickets 
 
 In France, travelers may purchase a 
 permit, good over the seven divisions of 
 French railways for three months for $19, 
 which allows the holder to buy second or 
 third class railway tickets at one half the 
 regular rates "Sectional tickets," or 
 tickets good over each of the seven sec- 
 tions of the French Railway system, are 
 also sold at greatly reduced rates, allow- 
 ing of continuous travel for fifteen or 
 
Arrival in Europe 77 
 
 thirty days over a certain section, some- 
 what as in Belgium. In addition, the 
 traveler is given as much as 185 miles 
 of free transportation in order that he 
 may reach the frontier, I might say, of 
 the section over which his ticket is valid. 
 
 In Holland six or eight persons travel- 
 ing together, first or second class respec- 
 tively, may purchase tickets for one half 
 the regular fare of a single journey, or 
 for the round trip, at the rate of single 
 fares. Another special rate ticket in 
 Holland for eighty Dutch cents, first 
 class, or sixty cents second class, allows 
 the purchaser to travel from Amsterdam, 
 The Hague, Rotterdam, Utrecht or 
 Gouda to any one of twenty different 
 towns without stopover; while in summer 
 cheap tickets are sold over certain routes, 
 valid for but one day without stopover. 
 Thus a person may travel from one sta- 
 tion on a line to any other station on the 
 same line, distance not considered, for 
 four gulden ($1.60), first class, or three 
 gulden ($1.20), second. There are also 
 thirty-day tickets good over all the Dutch 
 railway lines proportionately cheaply. 
 
 Kilometer books for sale at one third 
 of the regular single ticket rates are 
 good throughout the German Empire ; and 
 the Baden State Railways issue a 1, 000- 
 kilometer book, good for one year, for 
 
78 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 sixty marks ($15), first class; and forty 
 marks ($10), second. 
 
 In Italy there are division tickets as in 
 France; the thirty-day ticket, good for 
 continuous travel over all lines within the 
 stated time, sells for 300 lire ($60) first 
 class, or £10 lire ($42) second. The 
 sixty-day ticket costs 47,5 lire ($95) first 
 class, and 330 lire ($66) second class. 
 Fifteen and thirty-day tickets, good 
 throughout Sicily, are offered at equally 
 low rates; $15 or $11, first or second 
 class for a fifteen-day ticket; $20 or $16 
 for a thirty-day ticket. 
 
 What Class to Travel 
 
 The general formula for European 
 railway and steamship travel is to go 
 third class in Scotland, England and 
 Wales. Ireland's third class is not up to 
 the standard of that of the others. 
 Throughout the Continent, except in 
 Spain, the second class carriages are very 
 comfortable. On steamships and all 
 river and lake boats it is better to go first 
 class, which is even cheaper than second 
 on railways, and more than likely the 
 through ticket will permit of this. 
 
 Avoid traveling on Sundays and holi- 
 days if possible, and especially for long 
 distances, unless first class. Should the 
 second class compartments be crowded, 
 
Arrival in Europe 79 
 
 as they usually are on Sundays and holi- 
 days, a small gratuity offered to the 
 guard will enable him to see his way clear 
 to slip you into a first class compartment, 
 and no questions asked. Unless in a 
 hurry, it is unwise to travel at night. By 
 so doing, not only is the intervening 
 country lost to the sight-seer, but the 
 "sittings up" are not conducive to a com- 
 fortable night's rest. 
 
 To use the sleeping cars in Europe is 
 expensive business. In the first place, the 
 traveler must purchase a first class fare ; 
 in the second, he must pay a rather ex- 
 orbitant supplement for the use of a 
 berth. In addition to these, if he travels 
 by the "trains de luxe" — often the only 
 ones between certain points that carry 
 sleeping cars — he must pay another sup- 
 plement for this privilege. For example, 
 the distance from Paris to Marseilles is 
 536 miles. A sleeping berth in the "train 
 de luxe" between these points will cost 
 $13.60, or about two and one-half cents 
 a mile — approximately, five times as 
 much as the American rate. This is in 
 addition to a first class fare, which, in 
 this case, would be $19.30, or nearly four 
 cents a mile. A sleeping berth on the 
 night express between Paris and Mar- 
 seilles costs $10, or about one and three- 
 quarters cents a mile. 
 
80 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
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94 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 Hotels and Pensions 
 
 The prices of hotel and pension accom- 
 modations in Europe vary considerably. 
 In certain countries they are higher than 
 in others. Always they are higher in the 
 cities than in the small towns and country 
 districts. Always they are higher "in 
 season" than "out of season" — whichever 
 the "season" may be. The migratory 
 American usually establishes the "sea- 
 son," and when he begins his annual exo- 
 dus to Europe the rates go up. 
 
 As much as for its scenery Switzer- 
 land is famous for its hotels. The Swiss 
 are the hotel keepers of the world, which 
 is well to remember when traveling in 
 places out of the beaten track. If there 
 is a Swiss hotel keeper in any town, Wai- 
 kiki or Walla Walla, it is a foregone con- 
 clusion that his hotel will be the best in 
 that town for the price. More than 800 
 hotels are noted in the little handbook 
 published by the Association of Swiss Ho- 
 tel Proprietors, and on the average the 
 tourist pays from $3 to $4 a day for full 
 board. 
 
 Costs of Accommodations 
 
 The ordinary charge for bedroom, 
 light and attendance at the first class ho- 
 tels in Switzerland is from three and one- 
 
Arrival in Europe 95 
 
 half francs to five francs; for the con- 
 tinental breakfast of tea or coffee, rolls, 
 butter and honey, one and one-half 
 francs ; for the dejeuner, or luncheon, 
 three to four francs ; for the table d'hote 
 dinner, four to six francs. 
 
 But here just a word about "light" and 
 "attendance." 
 
 They cannot seem to convalesce from 
 the custom abroad of charging for the 
 light, electric or gas, that the guest may 
 consume while in residence at the hotel. 
 In days past, which are not so very far 
 passed, at that, the proprietor doled out 
 candles to his patrons when they returned 
 at night, for which he made a small 
 charge on the bills. The introduction 
 of gas and electricity was too sudden 
 abroad to permit so deep rooted a custom 
 as charging for light to be annulled on 
 the minute. 
 
 "Attendance" simply means being 
 waited upon. The hotel servants must 
 be paid something at least by the proprie- 
 tor, and the proprietor since time imme- 
 morial has taken it upon himself to 
 charge against his patrons an additional 
 item in order to help cancel his outlay. 
 It is a little like what might be the privi- 
 lege of staying at a hotel in America and 
 then being charged in addition for elec- 
 tricity and heat used, for having the maid 
 
96 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 make up the bed and for allowing the 
 clerk to watch you sign your name on 
 the register. The custom of charging 
 for "attendance" is as chronic abroad as 
 charging for "light." But the item is a 
 small one. 
 
 In the smaller, so-called "second class 
 hotels," quite as clean and comfortable as, 
 although less pretentious than the "first," 
 the charges are: for bedroom, one and 
 one-half francs to two ; for breakfast, one 
 to one and one-quarter francs; for the 
 table d'hote at noon, two to three francs ; 
 for supper in the evening, one and one- 
 half to two francs. 
 
 The rates for bedroom increase accord- 
 ing to the size and location of the room, 
 but the rates for meals are usually fixed. 
 By this schedule one may stop in Switzer- 
 land at first class hotels for $3 or less a 
 day, and at the smaller hotels for $2. 
 Pensions are supposed to be somewhat 
 cheaper, but the rates at some of the 
 better known ones will be found to be 
 quite as high as those of the hotels, while 
 the accommodations are usually inferior. 
 A prolonged stay at any hotel may be 
 made at a daily rate considerably lower 
 than those mentioned above, in which 
 case it is best to inquire the inclusive rate 
 for "full pension" — meaning room, board, 
 service and lights. One may live com- 
 
Arrival in Europe 97 
 
 fortably as cheaply in Switzerland as in 
 any country in the world. 
 
 Comparative hotel accommodations in 
 Italy are more expensive, although I 
 have lived at one of the best hotels in 
 Naples for $2 a day, including three ex- 
 cellent meals. The hotels that cater to 
 the native element are ill-kept and un- 
 cleanly. 
 
 Through provincial Germany the rates 
 hold relatively the same as in Switzerland, 
 and the hotels are of the same high order. 
 In the large cities, especially the capitals, 
 rates are somewhat higher. In Dresden, 
 $2 a day will cover the expense of room 
 and three meals at one of the smaller but 
 scrupulously clean hostelries to the right 
 of the station and just beyond the tunnel 
 under the railway tracks. An excellent 
 room and excellent meals in a German 
 pension in Berlin — not one of the matiy 
 which cater to the American music stu- 
 dent, however — may be had for as little 
 as $9 a week. 
 
 The hotel accommodations of provin- 
 cial France are just as cheap, although 
 not up to the standard of Switzerland or 
 Germany. In Paris the same relative 
 values hold as in other European capi- 
 tals. 
 
 Norway, Sweden and Denmark offer 
 excellent and comparatively inexpensive 
 
98 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 accommodations for the tourist, and $£ 
 or slightly more a day will pay for room 
 and meals at any of the less pretentious 
 houses throughout Scandinavia. 
 
 Holland, with all her polished door- 
 steps and shining brasswork, is conspicu- 
 ously lacking in good reasonably priced 
 hotels. The best in the country are none 
 too good, and by the prices they charge 
 one cannot compute their various degrees 
 of excellence, whether good, bad or in- 
 different. Holland is one of the cheapest 
 of European countries to travel through, 
 but one of the most expensive to stop in 
 over night. There is an old saying, how- 
 ever true it may be, that a gulden (forty 
 cents in American money) in Holland 
 goes only as far as a mark (twenty-three 
 cents) in Germany. Be that as it may. 
 
 Belgian moderate priced hotels are no 
 worse than those of her neighbor, nor are 
 they much better. 
 
 In Austria, Hungaria and all down 
 through the Balkan States, improbable as 
 it may seem in the case of the latter, the 
 hotels in the larger cities are of the first 
 water as to quality and very reasonable 
 as to price. I wish I could say the same 
 for the small town inns, but then the 
 Middle East has not yet come into its own 
 as a tourist territory. 
 
 Other than the best hotel in any small 
 
Arrival in Europe 99 
 
 Spanish town is next to impossible if the 
 traveler expects to enjoy any degree of 
 comfort, and even this will be expensive 
 considering the accommodations. 
 
 Generally speaking, hotels in Great 
 Britain are the most expensive in Europe. 
 The ordinary charges at London hotels 
 vary from about $2 a day in the less pre- 
 tentious houses to $5 and upwards, 
 (mostly upwards) in the most expensive, 
 and this for room only. The most eco- 
 nomical method of indulging in hotel life 
 in London, a system that may be applied 
 advantageously to any continental city as 
 well, is to bargain for room and break- 
 fast only, taking lunch and dinner wher- 
 ever you choose. Room and breakfast 
 at a good hotel in London (the "temper- 
 ance" hotels, for example, patronized 
 mainly by visitors from the Colonies) 
 may be had for, say, $1.35 (five shillings 
 and sixpence). Lunch should not exceed 
 a shilling and a half, and the city is 
 crowded with interesting little French 
 and Italian restaurants where sixty cents 
 (two shillings and sixpence) will buy a 
 sumptuous table d'hote dinner, wine often 
 included. 
 
 Provincial England, Ireland, Scotland 
 and Wales abound in comfortable and 
 cleanly little inns where $2 a day will pro- 
 vide for everything. 
 
100 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 Tips in Hotels 
 
 As to tips abroad, the traveler through 
 Europe will make no mistake by adhering 
 to a strict ten per cent, ratio. Ten per 
 cent, of any hotel bill, divided propor- 
 tionately among those who serve you, is 
 all that is expected. In addition, the 
 equivalent of five American cents for each 
 piece of baggage may be given the porter 
 for bringing it to your room upon arrival 
 and for toting it back to your cab again 
 at the end of your stay ; and the field 
 marshal who presides over the lobby — 
 the concierge on the Continent, the hall 
 porter in England — will never refuse a 
 small tip in* any event, but one is neces- 
 sary only when he has imparted requested 
 information about trains, points of in- 
 terest, and so forth. A franc, or its 
 equivalent in the currency of the coun- 
 try, is about the proper amount per per- 
 son if remaining under his jurisdiction 
 for three or four days, and considerably 
 less in proportion in the case of a party 
 of four or more. 
 
 It is not necessary to tip the chamber- 
 maid for a one night stay, but when re- 
 maining for a longer period ten cents per 
 person will be amply sufficient. If at 
 your request she prepares a bath for you 
 ■ — which, by the way, is one of her many 
 
Arrival in Europe 101 
 
 duties — she will expect ten cents — six- 
 pence, half a franc, or some coin of the 
 same value. To your table waiter, when 
 he submits your bill at the termination 
 of your visit, should be given the ten per 
 cent, ratio, less the amount you may have 
 already given the chambermaid. When 
 the charge for "attendance" is included 
 in the bill the ten per cent, donation may 
 be dispensed with, but nevertheless, the 
 waiter will expect at least a little some- 
 thing for having waited upon you. If a 
 protracted stay is made in any one hotel 
 the ratio of tips may be reduced to eight, 
 or seven, or even five per cent. 
 
 Hotel Coupons 
 
 To anyone not conversant with the 
 French language — which is not only the 
 language of diplomacy but of hoteldom 
 abroad — and who is not endowed with the 
 sang froid (shall I say?) to walk delib- 
 erately away if the price as quoted is not 
 satisfactory, I should suggest that the 
 traveler in Europe for the first time pro- 
 vide himself with the "hotel coupons" is- 
 sued by the well-known tourist companies 
 abroad. These may be purchased at 
 varying prices, according to the desired 
 accommodations at "first" or "second 
 class" hotels. What has been said above 
 with regard to the standard of hotels in 
 
102 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 various countries may prompt the pro- 
 spective purchaser of hotel coupons which 
 "series" to buy, depending upon the coun- 
 try or countries to be visited whether for 
 "first" or "second class" houses. A dol- 
 lar and eighty-seven cents in American 
 money will buy one day's coupons accept- 
 able for room, continental breakfast and 
 the regular table d'hote dinner at any 
 and every "second class" hotel in any and 
 every city and town in Europe, which is 
 included in the lengthy list provided with 
 the coupons, leaving lunch to be provided 
 for in addition. This precludes the pos- 
 sibility of being charged exorbitant rates. 
 The "second class" hotels as listed are 
 often the best in certain places, and you 
 can usually make up your mind, by look- 
 ing over the list before you get off the 
 train, which hotel you will favor. The 
 hotel coupons good at every hotel men- 
 tioned in the "first class" list cost but 
 slightly more than those of the "second 
 class," various "supplements" being noted 
 in addition. 
 
 You will thus be able to compute the 
 approximate expense of a month's or six 
 weeks' stay on the Continent in advance. 
 Unused coupons are redeemable at the 
 purchasing office for fifty or sixty per 
 cent, of their original value. 
 
 The disadvantages of these coupons 
 
Arrival in Europe 103 
 
 are: that the traveler is limited as to his 
 choice of hotels in every town; that, be- 
 cause the coupons are not actual cash, he 
 is sometimes bundled into an inferior 
 room; and that he might have bargained 
 for the same accommodations at a lower 
 figure than the coupons cost him, which 
 is frequently possible. If, on a month's 
 trip, the traveler provides himself with 
 coupons for fifteen days, which he may 
 use at his discretion, and fights his own 
 way for the remaining fifteen, he will sel- 
 dom regret the adopted method of self- 
 maintenance. 
 
 Seeing Points of Interest 
 
 There is not much definite information 
 to be offered the traveler with respect to 
 European guides. Sometimes they are well 
 worth the money spent on their services. 
 More often they are not. Every place 
 of interest abroad is full to overflow- 
 ing with them, good, bad and indifferent. 
 Sometimes they are a necessity, almost; 
 sometimes they are an encumbrance. In 
 a place like Rome, where there is so much 
 to see that a whole summer's sojourn 
 would not exhaust it all, a reliable guide 
 engaged by the day is a profitable invest- 
 ment. But then again there are so many 
 incompetent cicerones in Rome that the 
 authorities of the hotel selected should be 
 
104 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 consulted before entering into any agree- 
 ment. Indeed, if desirous of procuring 
 a guide by the day, the guides vouched 
 for by the good hotels are the best 
 throughout Europe; then, if they prove 
 incompetent, you have some place to reg- 
 ister an effective complaint. In a place 
 like Rome, too, the really reliable guides 
 are licensed by the local historical so- 
 ciety and the information they impart 
 is practically authentic. The average 
 charge for a guide anywhere is about 
 $2.00 a day and expenses (carriage hire, 
 car fares, etc.), with an additional ten 
 per cent, of the bill as a gratuity if he 
 proves satisfactory. Owing to the im- 
 portunities of beggars and mendicants 
 and venders of curios it is sometimes 
 rather more than annoying to make cer- 
 tain excursions in the vicinity of Naples 
 without a guide. 
 
 In museums and art galleries a guide 
 will be more of a nuisance than a help. 
 What interests you the most may not be 
 included in his catalogue of exhibits, and 
 in the end you will see nothing but what 
 he chooses to show you in order to work 
 off his "line of talk," thus giving you the 
 impression that he is a very learned per- 
 sonage and deserves the exorbitant rate 
 he will invariably try to charge. The 
 various guidebooks exploit the contents 
 
^^7i 
 
Arrival in Europe 105 
 
 of the galleries and museums fully, and 
 from them you can learn as much as any 
 human guide can tell you, and rely bet- 
 ter upon the information. 
 
 When it comes to an object of univer- 
 sal interest, such as the Cologne or the 
 Milan cathedral or St. Peter's in Rome, 
 the services of one of the local English 
 speaking guides may be secured, and to 
 the traveler's advantage. Plenty of such 
 fellows will be found at the entrance and 
 will show a party through, explaining 
 everything, for a nominal charge ranging 
 from fifty cents to a dollar. If time 
 presses, and a second visit cannot be 
 made, this method cannot be improved 
 upon. 
 
 However, it seems to me a sacrilege to 
 be personally conducted about any Euro- 
 pean city by a chattering guide. An ex- 
 cellent method to pursue is to read what 
 Mr. Baedeker, or other reliable guide- 
 book person, has to say about your next 
 stopping place before you get there. 
 Determine from his descriptions or from 
 what you already know to be the "big 
 things" in the town and the things that 
 you will wish to see the most. You cannot 
 see everything everywhere abroad in a 
 summer, and) this you will have to admit 
 before you are through. After you have 
 selected your hotel, walk out to the near- 
 
106 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 est bookshop and buy a little pocket plan 
 of the city, or, by purchasing the special 
 edition of the Continental Bradshaw you 
 will have plans of all the principal Euro- 
 pean cities contained in one volume. By 
 studying the plan for half an hour you 
 will glean a better idea of the town in gen- 
 eral than by walking about it aimlessly 
 for a week. After you have studied the 
 plan, jump into a horse-drawn taxicab 
 and tell the driver (and the powers of pan- 
 tomime are wonderful if you cannot speak 
 the language) to drive you around the 
 place for an hour or two and point out 
 the objects of interest. During your 
 royal progress through the city ask him 
 every question that comes into your head, 
 for you will have to tip him anyway. 
 Thus, when you come to visit those places 
 of interest the next day, perhaps, you will 
 be able to plan your sight-seeing com- 
 paign so as to waste as little time as pos- 
 sible. It is a good idea, too, to take a 
 ride around the city in an electric car, 
 and it is a pleasant and profitable way to 
 spend an evening. Even if you do not 
 speak a word of the local language it will 
 make very little difference — the car is 
 sure to come back some time to the place 
 where you got on. Personally, I try to 
 see the important historical things in 
 every city, but I must confess that the 
 
Arrival in Europe 107 
 
 people and their customs as they are to- 
 day appeal to me a great deal more. So, 
 after doing my duty in looking at things 
 historical a part of the day at least, I re- 
 lax in the evenings and "follow the crowd." 
 It is educational suicide to stay in the ho- 
 tel in the evening and try to study up on 
 what is in store for the morrow. 
 
 The little town of Alkmaar, the cheese 
 capital of North Holland, has a system 
 of showing its visitors the sights and 
 apologizing for its eccentricities that 
 might be emulated by many a city in Eu- 
 rope. 
 
 On Fridays of each week there is held 
 a cheese market in Alkmaar — a sight that 
 is well worth spending a night there in or- 
 der not to miss a single phase of it. As 
 you walk about the next morning between 
 the piles of cheeses in the market square, 
 at every move divulging the fact that you 
 are a visitor, you will doubtless be politely 
 accosted by a youth who, in more or less 
 fluent English, will offer to explain the 
 making and marketing of cheeses and in- 
 cidentally show you the sights of the lit- 
 tle city. 
 
 These erstwhile guides of Alkmaar are 
 pupils in the high school, admonished to 
 sally forth on market days and air the 
 English they have been taught in conver- 
 sation with English speaking visitors. 
 
108 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 They are well versed in everything of in- 
 terest that the town contains ; they accept 
 no gratuities ; and they, as well as you, 
 profit by the half day thus spent. 
 
 A happy human combination of Bae- 
 deker and Bradshaw is he of the epaulets 
 and gold cord — the hotel concierge. He 
 conducts a sort of lbureau of general in- 
 formation just large enough for himself 
 and his desk "on the right as you enter." 
 He knows all about trains and boats and 
 trolley services, excursions in the vicinity, 
 important points of interest in the city 
 and how to get there. He will unburden 
 his soul for the asking — and a certain 
 aforementioned gratuity at the end of 
 your stay. But being neither archaeolo- 
 gist nor art critic, his store of authentic 
 information is limited to where to go and 
 how. 
 
 Routes between Countries 
 
 The shortest steamship route between 
 Ireland and Scotland is the forty-mile run 
 from Larne to Stranraer, the boats leav- 
 ing Stranraer upon the arrival of the 
 through London and Northwestern Rail- 
 way trains from London or Edinburgh. 
 This is the most popular passenger route 
 between the two provinces, and the most 
 important. The Irish Sea proper, how- 
 ever, seems to be scarred severely by the 
 
Arrival in Europe 109 
 
 tracks of steamers from Ireland to Eng- 
 land. One may cross from Belfast to 
 Fleetwood (138 miles), from Grenore to 
 Holyhead (70 miles), from Dublin to 
 Holyhead (46 miles), from Dublin direct 
 to Liverpool, or by one or two other less 
 important routes. 
 
 From England to the Continent there 
 are numerous routes across the Channel 
 and the North Sea, and these it might be 
 better to catalogue for the convenience of 
 the reader. Below will be found a list of 
 the most important of the different serv- 
 ices and the lines by which they are op- 
 erated. 
 
 FROM ENGLAND TO BELGIUM 
 
 To Antwerp from Goole: Lancashire and York- 
 shire Ry. Co., Mondays, Wednesdays, and 
 Saturdays. 
 
 To Antwerp from Grimsby: 20 hours, Great Cen- 
 tral Ry. Co., Mondays, Wednesdays, and 
 Saturdays. 
 
 To Antwerp from Hull: 22 hours, Wilson Line, 
 on Saturdays. 
 
 To Antwerp from Leith: Gibson Line, Tuesdays 
 and Saturdays. 
 
 To Antwerp from London: Great Eastern Ry. 
 Co. Daily except Sunday, via Harwich. 
 
 To Antwerp from Newcastle: 28 hours, Tyne- 
 Tees S. S. Co., on Saturdays, via Harwich. 
 
 To Bruges from Goole: Lancashire and York- 
 shire Ry. Co. 
 
 To Ghent from Goole: Lancashire and Yorkshire 
 Ry. Co., Wednesdays and Saturdays. 
 
 To Ghent from Hull: Wilson Line, on Satur- 
 days. 
 
110 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 To Ghent from Leith: Gibson Line, weekly. 
 
 To Ostend from Dover: 3 hours, Belgian Mail 
 
 Steamers. Frequent crossings. 
 To Ostend from London: Gen'l Steam Nav. Co., 
 
 Wednesdays and Saturdays, 9 a. m. 
 
 FROM ENGLAND TO DENMARK 
 
 To Copenhagen from Goole: Lancashire and 
 Yorkshire Ry. Co., Wednesdays. 
 
 To Copenhagen from Hull: Finland Line, Wed- 
 nesdays and Saturdays. 
 
 To Copenhagen from Leith: Leith, Hull and 
 Hamburg Co., Thursdays. 
 
 To Copenhagen from Newcastle: Wilson Line, on 
 Wednesdays. 
 
 To Esbjerg from Grimsby: United S. S. Co. of 
 Copenhagen, Mondays and Thursdays. 
 
 To Esbjerg from Harwich: United S. S. Co., 
 Ltd., Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays, Sat- 
 urdays. 
 
 FROM ENGLAND TO FRANCE 
 
 To Bordeaux from Liverpool: Compagnie Gen- 
 eral Transatlantique, 12th and 30th of each 
 month. Moss Line, weekly. 
 
 To Bordeaux from London: Gen'l Steam Nav. 
 Co., on Saturdays. 
 
 To Boulogne from Folkestone: (1 hour and 40 
 minutes), Southeastern Ry. Co., frequent 
 crossings. 
 
 To Boulogne from Leith: Gibson Line. 
 
 To Boulogne from London: (9 hours). Bennett 
 S. S. Co., three times weekly. 
 
 To Brest from Plymouth: Great Western Rail- 
 way Co., Saturdays 8 a. m. 
 
 To Caen from Newhaven: London, Brighton and 
 South Coast Ry. Co., Wednesdays. 
 
 To Calais from Dover: (1 hour to 1 hour and 20 
 minutes), Southeastern and Chatham mail 
 steamers. Frequent crossings. 
 
 To Cherbourg from Plymouth: White Star and 
 American Trans-Atlantic Lines, Wednes- 
 days and Saturdays. 
 
Arrival in Europe 111 
 
 To Cherbourg from Southampton: White Star, 
 American Trans-Atlantic lines, London and 
 South Western Railway Co. 
 
 To Dieppe from Newhaven: (Three and one-half 
 hours), London, Brighton and South Coast 
 Railway Co. Frequent crossings. 
 
 To Dunkirk from Goole: Lancashire and York- 
 shire Ry. Co., Tuesdays. 
 
 To Dunkirk from Hull: (20 hours), Wilson Line, 
 Saturday evenings. 
 
 To Dunkirk from Leith: Gibson Line, on Thurs- 
 days. 
 
 To Havre from Liverpool: Booth Line. 
 
 To Havre from Southampton: London and South 
 Coast Ry. Co. 
 
 To Marseilles from Hull: Wilson Line, every two 
 weeks. 
 
 To Marseilles from Liverpool: Bibby Line. 
 
 To Marseilles from London: Peninsular and Oc- 
 cidental and Orient Lines. 
 
 To Nantes from Weymouth: Great Western Ry. 
 Co., Wednesdays. 
 
 To St. Malo from Southampton: London and 
 Southwestern Ry. Co. 
 
 To St. Nazaire from Liverpool: Compagnie Gen- 
 eral Transatlantique. 
 
 FROM ENGLAND TO GERMANY 
 
 To Bremen from Hull: (36 hours), Argo S. S. 
 
 Co., Mondays and Fridays. 
 To Bremen from London: (36 hours), Argo S. S. 
 
 Co., Tuesdays. Thursdays and Saturdays. 
 To Brunsbiittel (Kiel Canal) from London: 
 
 United Steamshipping Co., Ltd. 
 To Dantsic from Hull: Wilson Line, every ten 
 
 days. 
 To Hamburg from Goole: Lancashire and York- 
 shire Ry. Co., Mondays, Thursdays, Fridays 
 
 and Saturdays. 
 To Hamburg from Grimsby: (30 hours), Great 
 
 Central Ry. Co. Daily except Sunday, 7 
 
 p. M. 
 
112 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 To Hamburg from Harwich: Gen'l Steam Nav. 
 Co., Wednesdays and Saturdays. 
 
 To Hamburg from Hull: Wilson Line, Wednes- 
 days and Saturdays. 
 
 To Hamburg from Leith: Leith, Hull and Ham- 
 burg Co., Mondays, Wednesdays, and Sat- 
 urdays. 
 
 To Hamburg from London: (Liverpool Street 
 Station), Gen'l Steam Nav. Co., Wednes- 
 days and Saturdays, 8:40 p. m. 
 
 To Hamburg from Newcastle: (36 hours), Tyne- 
 Tees Steam Ship Co., Saturdays. 
 
 To Hamburg from West Hartlepool: West Har- 
 tlepool Steam Nav. Co., Ltd., Wednesday 
 and Saturday evenings. 
 
 To Holtenau from London: United Shipping Co., 
 Ltd. 
 
 To Konigsberg from Hull: Wilson Line, weekly. 
 
 To Stettin from Hull: Wilson Line, Fridays. 
 
 FROM ENGLAND TO HOLLAND 
 
 To Amsterdam from Goole : Lancashire and York- 
 shire Ry. Co., Wednesdays and Saturdays. 
 
 To Amsterdam from Hull: Hull and Netherlands 
 S. S. Co. 
 
 To Amsterdam from Leith: Gibson Line, Mon- 
 days. 
 
 To Amsterdam from London: Holland S. S. Co., 
 Wednesdays and Sundays. 
 
 To Delfziel from Goole: Lancashire and York- 
 shire Ry. Co., Tuesdays. 
 
 To Flushing from Queensboro: Zeeland Shipping 
 Co., via South Eastern and Chatham Ry. 
 Daily. 
 
 To Flushing from Folkestone: Zeeland Shipping 
 Co., via South Eastern and Chatham Ry. 
 Nightly. 
 
 To Harlingen from Hull: Hull and Netherlands 
 S. S. Co. 
 
 To Hook of Holland from Harwich: Via Great 
 Eastern Ry., 8:30 p. m. daily, from Liver- 
 pool Street Station, London. 
 
Arrival in Europe 113 
 
 To Rotterdam from Goole: Lancashire and York- 
 shire Ry. Co., Mondays, Wednesdays and 
 Saturdays. 
 
 To Rotterdam from Grimsby: Great Central Ry. 
 Co., Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, 7 
 
 P. M. 
 
 To Rotterdam from Hull: Hull and Netherlands 
 
 S. S. Co., Daily except Sunday. 
 To Rotterdam from Leith: Gibson Line, twice 
 
 weekly. 
 To Rotterdam from Liverpool: Cork S. S. Co., 
 
 Wednesdays and Saturdays. 
 To Rotterdam from London: Batavier Line, 
 
 Daily, Sunday excepted. 
 To Rotterdam from Newcastle: (24 hours), Tyne- 
 
 Tees Shipping Co., Tuesdays. 
 To Rotterdam from Southampton: Holland 
 
 American Trans-Atlantic Line. 
 
 In addition, one may travel direct by 
 boat from various British, German and 
 Dutch ports to Gibraltar or any of the 
 other principal ports along the Mediter- 
 ranean. Ships sail for the Far East from 
 Southampton, London, Bremen, Ham- 
 burg, Rotterdam or Amsterdam almost 
 every day, calling at Lisbon, Gibraltar, 
 Marseilles, Genoa, Naples and Brindisi. 
 The passage rates are more than double 
 the overland railway fares between the 
 same points, and the journey takes more 
 than twice the time. 
 
 The trip across the English Channel is 
 always a kind of a bugaboo to the traveler 
 susceptible to seasickness. There are two 
 ways of looking at this cross-Channel busi- 
 ness ; the longer the route selected, the 
 
114 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 calmer will be the passage; and the 
 shorter the route, the sooner it is over. 
 The two British and French ports nearest 
 to each other are Dover and Calais, and it 
 takes but a little over an hour to make the 
 passage of twenty-five miles from one to 
 the other. But just in this "neck" is 
 where the currents meet as they surge 
 through the Strait of Dover from the 
 North Sea and the Atlantic. On account 
 of the time saved the traveler by this route 
 it is the most expensive. 
 
 The seventy-nine miles from Newhaven 
 to Dieppe are covered in three and a half 
 hours. At this point of the Channel the 
 North Sea current has about exhausted its 
 strength, and the current from the Atlan- 
 tic has not yet begun to accumulate force. 
 Because of the time consumed it is the 
 cheapest direct daily cross-Channel route 
 between England and France, with the ex- 
 ception of the all-night trip from South- 
 ampton to Havre. 
 
 Across the lower end of the North Sea 
 from England to the Hook of Holland or 
 Flushing the night may be spent in com- 
 parative comfort. 
 
IV 
 WHAT TO SEE ABROAD 
 
 EVERY country in Europe — every 
 district, indeed, has its peculiar fas- 
 cinations for the tourist, and with little 
 difficulty he may map out his tour to in- 
 clude only those sections which hold 
 whatever strikes his fancy the most. 
 After having guide-booked through the 
 great museums of art and antiquities in 
 the large cities ; after having hurried 
 along their lively thoroughfares and 
 sipped coffee with the cosmopolitan 
 crowds in their gay cafes ; after having 
 strolled about in their handmade parks 
 and pleasure places, the traveler may 
 awake at the end of a few hours' train 
 ride to find himself inhaling the atmos- 
 phere of medieval times in some little 
 out-of-the-way corner where the modern 
 methods of a prosaic workaday world out- 
 side have but little influence. Whatever 
 the traveler's hobby, it may be gratified 
 through the simple procedure of purchas- 
 ing a railway ticket. 
 
 Algeria 
 
 From Marseilles it is an all night's 
 
 115 
 
116 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 trip in a fast French steamship to Algiers. 
 Here in the narrow, slatternly, dimly 
 lighted alleyways of its Arab quarter the 
 traveler finds many types and conditions 
 that will come as a forceful surprise in a 
 city of such importance. The business 
 and residence sections of Algiers are typi- 
 cally French. Not so in Tunis — the east- 
 ern terminus of the North African rail- 
 way line. Tunis is essentially Arabic and 
 its picturesque bazaars are famous 
 throughout the world. Living in Tunis 
 is cheaper than in Algiers and its situa- 
 tion is more beautiful and healthful. The 
 ruins of ancient Carthage are quite close. 
 And if you go to the edge of the desert 
 and see the original "Garden of Allah," 
 take the train south from Constantine to 
 Biskra. Biskra is as near the great Sa- 
 hara as civilization seems to care to risk. 
 
 Austria 
 
 In addition to the Tyrol and the Salz- 
 burg environs, much of the interest in 
 Austria lies in its great cities, Vienna, 
 Prague, Budapesth. Vienna is a gay, 
 cosmopolitan city, rich in new architec- 
 ture of a grandiose type and in remains 
 of the Middle Ages. It lies in a plain 
 on the Danube Canal with spurs of the 
 Alps in the distance. In the neighbor- 
 hood of the city is the charming Vienna 
 
What to See Abroad 117 
 
 forest and the Danube Valley called 
 "Wachan" with the finest views. 
 
 Styria and Carnithia contain the major 
 part of Austria's forest land, the small 
 towns, and agricultural communities. 
 From Trieste along the Adriatic includ- 
 ing Croatia and Dalmatia is a region rich 
 in interest to the traveler. Towns abound 
 in Roman ruins, and the air of Italy 
 seems transported there. The life is gay 
 and luxurious, and the costumes pic- 
 turesque. 
 
 Bohemia is suggestive of Germany, and 
 Prague, its capital, is a more German 
 Vienna on a less elaborate scale. 
 
 The Balkan States 
 
 In Montenegro one may observe at 
 close range the most superb specimens of 
 physical manhood, each heavily armed and 
 dressed in that picturesque native costume 
 which time and the best fashion tailors of 
 Europe have never been able to remedy. 
 
 In Bosnia and the Herzegovina the 
 traveler may peep behind the lattices of 
 Turkish life, since this district was not 
 so very long ago nominal Turkish terri- 
 tory and since the Turk, therefore, is a 
 predominant element of the population. 
 He and his art are the important objects 
 of interest in the cities. Visiting these 
 Austrian provinces will make it seem that 
 
118 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 within a few hours the traveler has been 
 whisked from civilized Twentieth Century 
 Europe into the primitive East, with all 
 its mosque minarets and veiled goddesses 
 of the harem. Bazaars abound, and the 
 scenery of the rural districts is delightful. 
 Throughout Servia, Bulgaria and Rou- 
 mania are colors and types galore, set in 
 the bustling activity of modern cities 
 clanging with trolley cars, lighted with 
 electricity and paved with asphalt. If 
 you ever become tired of wandering in 
 and out among the more advertised and 
 better known sections of Europe in search 
 of that ever elusive something new, a trip 
 through these Balkan States, where the 
 East meets the West, the fusion point of 
 Yesterday and To-morrow, will fill your 
 cup of delight to overflowing. 
 
 Bavaria 
 
 Outside of Italy, Bavaria is unques- 
 tionably the most interesting country in 
 Europe. The peasantry are the most in- 
 telligent, kindly and attractive to be 
 found anywhere. All through the north- 
 ern and central parts the scenery is en- 
 chanting in its rolling, rural peaceful- 
 ness, and here are found ancient walled 
 towns of exceeding picturesqueness like 
 Rothenburg, and cities full of art and 
 architecture like Nuremburg. 
 
What to See Abroad 119 
 
 In the central part is a chain of splen- 
 did cities. Ulm, with a Rathaus a blaze 
 of wonderful mural paintings that cover 
 the outer walls from ground to roof; 
 with queer old buildings, and with a 
 cathedral whose spire is the loftiest in the 
 world. Augsburg with its Renaissance 
 fountains, its medieval streets, and its 
 curious Fugery, a town within a town. 
 And Regensburg, with its great cathe- 
 dral, and its curious towers of defense 
 attached to private houses, a few of 
 which still survive, and the wonderful 
 Walhalla overlooking miles and miles of 
 the Danube and the great Bavarian plain. 
 
 Then to the south you find the splen- 
 did scenery of the Alps, secluded moun- 
 tain villages, old castles, peaceful valleys, 
 and great and rugged peaks. Here, too, 
 lie the matchless Bavarian lakes, and 
 most unique of all, those incredible castles 
 built by mad Ludwig, some on lonely 
 islands on the shores of silent lakes, and 
 some on almost inaccessible mountains, 
 but all of them gorgeous as strange 
 dreams. 
 
 Belgium 
 
 You can travel five centuries in Bel- 
 gium in thirty minutes. From the 
 modern watering place of Ostend to un- 
 spoiled medieval Bruges is only fourteen 
 
120 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 miles, yet you plunge from a fashionable, 
 garish summer resort, tasseled and tin- 
 seled, to a city asleep with the dust of 
 centuries upon it. A little farther on, 
 only twenty-eight miles, is Ghent, a city 
 large and rambling, presenting a curious 
 mixture of ancient life and Twentieth 
 Century commercial activity. Antwerp, 
 bustling, commercial and progressive, lies 
 thirty miles to the eastward, and at the 
 same distance is stately Brussels, a beau- 
 tiful city of splendid buildings, boule- 
 vards, clean streets and pleasant shops. 
 Such are the sharp contrasts in this little 
 land of ancient Flanders and Burgundy. 
 And the contrast does not end here. 
 London has a population greater than all 
 Belgium, yet this small kingdom of big 
 cities is the most thickly populated in 
 Europe. In size it is not quite as large 
 as Maryland. The State of Texas could 
 accommodate twenty-three such coun- 
 tries within its borders. 
 
 But what Belgium lacks in size it makes 
 up in interest, for it is one of the most 
 fascinating of the European States from 
 the traveler's standpoint. The art and 
 architecture of the Middle Ages are better 
 preserved here than in other countries of 
 Western Europe, for Belgium escaped in 
 a large measure the terrible ravages of 
 the great religious and political upheavals 
 
What to See Abroad 121 
 
 that disastrously affected other parts of 
 Europe. Thus in Belgium we have splen- 
 did churches, richly sculptured guildhalls, 
 ancient market places, belfries, whole 
 streets of red-roofed and gabled houses, 
 splendid works of art by native painters 
 — all these are there as living manifes- 
 tations of old Flanders' medieval glory. 
 
 For the same reason the student of art 
 revels in Belgium's display of master- 
 pieces of painting. No other country, 
 with the exception of Italy, has such a 
 wealth of native art. It is never exotic, 
 here, as in other art centers of Europe, 
 for here Memling, Van Eyck, Rubens 
 and a score of others lived and painted, 
 and their work remains in its native 
 environment. 
 
 In Bruges Belgium possesses one of the 
 picture towns of Europe. It is verily a 
 dream city. Called "the Northern Ven- 
 ice," it combines all the quaintness of the 
 Netherlands with the soft beauty of 
 Venetian waterways. 
 
 The medieval charm of Bruges is in- 
 describable. The streets of curious old 
 gabled houses of every size and shape, 
 irregular and mellow, breathe the atmos- 
 phere of a glorious past. Miles of can- 
 als interlace the city and into these are 
 built the houses with their crumbling, 
 moss-grown walls. 
 
122 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 The hotels of Belgium are good and 
 the cost of living is moderate. 
 
 BRITISH ISLES 
 
 England 
 
 England will always be a delight to the 
 traveler in that he finds in a compara- 
 tively small compass a whole world 
 thrilling with interest. Historic remains 
 are in evidence from the early Roman 
 times, nearly all in excellent preservation. 
 There is a variety of scenery, strikingly 
 beautiful, and a wealth of splendid archi- 
 tectural magnificence. One is struck 
 with the sense of completeness or finish 
 of everything in England, and it appears 
 that even the old forests are little 
 changed since earliest times. Every- 
 where the tourist is in touch with the 
 past and the future at the same time. 
 There are unlimited railway facilities, 
 making travel all over the island a simple 
 matter. 
 
 The districts suggested in the follow- 
 ing, which include the finest scenery, the 
 places of greatest historic and literary 
 interest, and the most characteristic 
 architecture all could be combined in a 
 consecutive tour of no great extent. 
 
 In the north is the famous Lake dis- 
 trict included in the counties of West 
 
What to See Abroad 123 
 
 Moreland, Cumberland, and the north of 
 Lancashire. There are sixteen lakes — 
 the largest ten and a half miles — which, 
 despite their size, include some of the 
 finest wild scenery of Europe. Winder- 
 mere is of greatest size, while Ullswater 
 and Durwentwater are of almost equal 
 attraction. Grasmere was once the home 
 of Wordsworth and almost every spot 
 about here is reflected in his poetry. 
 Coniston, Keswick, and Ambleside are of 
 great interest also. There is ample op- 
 portunity for mountain climbing, the 
 ascent of Helvellyn being perhaps the 
 most noted. 
 
 Sherwood Forest asd the Dukeries 
 command considerable interest in the 
 beautiful walks and drives, due to the 
 fact that so many of the ancient seats of 
 the peerage are found here. The circular 
 drive is about twenty-five miles in extent, 
 and the entire district may be visited in 
 two days. It includes Newstead Abbey, 
 the home of Byron, and Walbeck Abbey, 
 with its great underground rooms. 
 Sherwood Forest is the quondam demesne 
 of Robin Hood. In the vicinity is Lin- 
 coln Cathedral, begun in 1074. It is 
 very well preserved, and is imposing on 
 account of its splendid situation, size, 
 and exquisite detail. This district is in 
 Nottingham and is either approached 
 
124 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 from the city of this name or from Ches- 
 ter by way of Sheffield and Mansfield. 
 
 Derbyshire Peak is approached from 
 Manchester or Derby and includes the 
 fascinating valleys of the Dove and the 
 Derwent. The country is both rocky and 
 wooded, and especially Dovedale is worth 
 seeing, with its narrow valley, hemmed in 
 by limestone cliffs and fantastic rocks 
 and surrounded by woods. The famous 
 old baronial mansion, Haddon Hall, is 
 here. 
 
 The Shakespeare country is in the 
 central west of England and shows many 
 fine examples of the characteristic Eng- 
 lish thatched cottage, and is beautiful 
 in pastoral scenery of English country- 
 side along field and river. Warwick, a 
 town of great antiquity, makes a good 
 base from which to take walks and 
 drives or excursions on the picturesque 
 Avon. The town itself is full of interest 
 in its half-timbered buildings, but espe- 
 cially so in Warwick Castle, which dates 
 from Saxon times, and is a fine example of 
 feudal architecture. Kenilworth and old 
 Guy's Cliff are within walking distance 
 to the north, as is also Stratford to the 
 south. Lady Godiva's Coventry is worth 
 visiting and the road from this town to 
 Stratford is esteemed the most beautiful 
 walk in England. Stratford, besides its 
 
What to See Abroad 125 
 
 Shakespearean interest, is beautiful in its 
 environs. 
 
 The Valley of the Wye is reached 
 from Gloucester — there is a fine cathedral 
 here — and offers a wonderful boat trip 
 from Monmouth to Chepstow. There 
 are such romantic ruins as Tintern Abbey 
 and Raglan Castle to be seen, and from 
 one point, Wyndcliffe, may be had one 
 of the finest views of river scenery in 
 Europe, compared by many to the Ger- 
 man river views. The Wye district is a 
 good entry point for South Wales. 
 
 Devon and Cornwall. This district in- 
 cludes the peculiar English moors and 
 the wonderful coast district of the south- 
 west peninsula. Cornwall abounds in 
 walks about the rocky coast. It has a 
 particularly mild climate that seldom 
 goes below 50 degrees, even in winter, 
 and tropical vegetation flourishes. At 
 Tintagel the great promontories rise to 
 200 feet. Lands End, Penzance, and The 
 Lizard are rich in walks along serpentine 
 cliffs, smugglers' caves, and quaint fish- 
 ing villages. Clovelly in especial is 
 picturesquely beautiful in its whitewashed 
 cottages with their green doors. This is 
 the country of Kingsley, while just north 
 is the famous Doone Valley. Dartmoor, 
 to the east, is a district, twenty-five 
 miles by twelve, of peaty moss hills and 
 
126 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 valleys out of which spring great granite 
 blocks, tors and menhirs. There are 
 many evidences of the ancient Britons in 
 this section. The noted resorts of Tor- 
 quay and Teignmouth are on its out- 
 skirts. 
 
 Surrey and the Downs with the water- 
 ing place of Brighton are south of Snow- 
 don. The Downs are wild and solitary 
 heath, hilly, and concealing several very 
 quaint villages. Dorking and Guildford 
 are but twenty-three and a half miles 
 from London, and within walking dis- 
 tance of each other. The Canterbury 
 Pilgrim's Way led past these towns, and 
 travelers may be pleased to follow it to 
 the Cathedral and town of that name. 
 
 No English tour is complete without a 
 visit to several of the Cathedral towns. 
 The most attractive are Canterbury, Lin- 
 coln, and Gloucester, which have been 
 mentioned, Durham, York, Peterborough, 
 Norwich, Ely, Cambridge, Wells, Win- 
 chester and Salisbury. The majority of 
 these places can be combined in a circular 
 tour of the island without special digres- 
 sions. Besides this, one should include 
 a visit to Oxford College, if possible. 
 Chester is another Cathedral town well 
 worth seeing, but its great sights are the 
 old Roman wall, which runs completely 
 about the town, and the peculiar old 
 
What to See Abroad 127 
 
 houses — the Rows — which project over 
 the street. 
 
 London is England's greatest center 
 of interest in countless ways, but one 
 point of special note is that, notwith- 
 standing its great size, there are many 
 country excursions that may be taken 
 from it, most taking less than an hour. 
 
 Epping Forest with its historic Eliza- 
 beth's hunting lodge, is but fifteen miles 
 away; Hampton Court, fifteen; Waltham 
 Abbey, twelve and three-quarters ; Har- 
 row, with the famous school and its 
 scenic attractions, eleven and a half; 
 Chigwell, with Dickens' old inn, twelve 
 and a half; Epsom, with its inn of the 
 Seventeenth Century, fourteen miles; St. 
 Albans, a very ancient abbey town, 
 twenty; Stoke Poges Church, twenty-one; 
 Windsor Castle, twenty-one; Jordan's, 
 the burial place of Penn, twenty-two; 
 Chalfont St. Giles, the home of Milton, 
 twenty-three miles. All these places are 
 reached by swift trains and contain that 
 very beautiful village scenery which is 
 characteristic of England, and for which 
 she is famous the world over. 
 
 Ireland 
 
 Ireland offers the traveler much that 
 cannot be seen in any other section of 
 Europe. There is the rolling landscape 
 
128 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 of lush green vegetation, charming lakes 
 with mellow old ruins, picturesque, white- 
 washed, thatch-roofed cottages, the 
 ubiquitous jaunting car, and a peasantry 
 that for wit and good nature is not 
 equaled anywhere in the world. Contrary 
 to general impression there are scattered 
 throughout Ireland charming old ruins of 
 castles, abbeys, round towers and Celtic 
 crosses that will well repay a visit. 
 
 By far the most interesting part of 
 Ireland is the south where lie Cork, Blar- 
 ney Castle and the Killarney Lakes. The 
 Lakes of Killarney, three in number, are 
 large with wooded shores and a number 
 of splendid ruins of castles and abbeys 
 dating back six centuries. The passenger 
 from America can disembark at Queens- 
 town, from which Cork is only a half 
 hour by rail and Blarney is but five miles 
 out of Cork. The Killarney Lakes lie 
 sixty-nine miles from here and are 
 reached in three and a half hours by train. 
 Leaving your steamer early in the morn- 
 ing, it is possible to visit Cork, go out 
 and kiss the Blarney Stone and see the 
 sun set over Killarney all in the same day. 
 
 Dublin is 186 miles from Killarney and 
 Belfast is 112 miles north of Dublin. 
 From here the Giant's Causeway, which 
 is in the extreme north of the island, may 
 be comfortably seen by an all-day excur- 
 
What to See Abroad 129 
 
 sion. It is then only a few hours' trip 
 across the channel to either Scotland or 
 England. 
 
 All of Ireland worth seeing can be 
 done in six or seven days, the south 
 alone in three or four days. 
 
 Scotland 
 
 There are few lands that have become 
 backgrounds of literature to the extent 
 that Scotland has. Burns, Wordsworth, 
 and Scott have written much of its beau- 
 ties and this fact, besides its intrinsic at- 
 tractions, makes it of prime interest to 
 the traveler. Touring is greatly facili- 
 tated by the conveniences of circular tour 
 privileges, which combine coach routes 
 with railway and steamboat transporta- 
 tion. The best season is in June, July, 
 and August. 
 
 Going north from Carlisle, one enters 
 the Burns country by way of Dumfries. 
 Ayrshire is delightful as an agricultural 
 district, cut by beautiful streams, and 
 rich in the scenes of Burns' life. Far- 
 ther north are the Scottish lakes, Loch 
 Lomond and Loch Katrine, and the far- 
 famed Trossachs. The Trossachs are 
 the richly wooded country at the eastern 
 end of Loch Katrine. This romantic 
 section is perhaps the most beautiful in 
 Scotland. The lakes are surrounded in 
 
130 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 places by steep cliffs, in places by thick 
 forest, and are dotted by picturesque 
 islands, while all about rise high moun- 
 tains, of which the majestic Ben Lomond 
 is the best known. In Loch Lomond is 
 the Ellen's Isle of Scott's "Lady of the 
 Lake." 
 
 By way of the interesting town, Cal- 
 lander, one may visit Stirling and the 
 historic Stirling Castle, and go south to 
 Edinburgh. This city is considered one 
 of the most beautiful of Europe in that 
 its fine architecture is so well combined 
 with the advantages of a naturally beau- 
 tiful situation high above the surround- 
 ing country. There is the old town to 
 be visited and the castle perched on a 
 bold rock and once the ancient seat of 
 the Scottish kings. Holyrood Castle 
 contains many relics of history. Edin- 
 burgh is the starting point for the Sel- 
 kirk Mountains and the land of Scott. 
 There is much to see here of which may 
 be mentioned Hawick and Jedburgh Ab- 
 bey. Melrose is especially worth while 
 with its beautiful ruined abbey and Ab- 
 botsford, Scott's home, near by. 
 
 For the rest there is too much to 
 mention of the various boat trips along 
 the coast through the peculiar firths. It 
 is worth while, however, to speak of the 
 journey to the Skye. This is generally 
 
What to See Abroad 131 
 
 made by rail from Glasgow to Oban on 
 the west coast. Three and a half miles 
 from Oban is Dunstaffnage Castle, whence 
 came the famous Stone of Scone. Trips 
 by boat start for various islands, among 
 them Staffa, with its strange caves of 
 great interest, the most famous of which 
 is Fingal's Cave, that penetrates the 
 island for 200 feet. The Oban-Skye trip 
 takes from two to three days. The island 
 is remarkable for its wild grandeur of 
 scenery and savage solitudes. Portree 
 and Storr Rock, especially Quisang, here 
 should be visited, as there is here prob- 
 ably the most striking rock scenery in 
 Great Britain, a combination of moor- 
 land cliff and fantastic pinnacles that is 
 picturesque in the extreme. 
 
 The Caledonian Canal cuts across 
 Scotland, running southwest from Inver- 
 ness to the west coast. It makes a de- 
 lightful trip by boat, affording diversi- 
 fied scenery of mountain and plain. 
 North of this canal is the Highland dis- 
 trict with its wild solitude. 
 
 As regards the language and people 
 of Scotland, there is but little difference 
 to be noted between the appearance of the 
 peasant class and that of England, ex- 
 cept that in the Highlands one may see 
 the kilted men with more or less frequency. 
 English is spoken everywhere, and in but 
 
132 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 few cases will the traveler come across 
 those speaking only Gaelic. 
 
 Wales 
 
 Wales is the most mountainous part of 
 Great Britain, and though the experi- 
 enced mountain climber will encounter no 
 peaks to climb for altitude records, he 
 will find a grandeur of scenery that will 
 stir the most phlegmatic. Tourists might 
 spend from three to six weeks to ad- 
 vantage here, but those pressed for time 
 may obtain a good idea of the district in 
 a week and have an opportunity to visit 
 the finest spots. 
 
 In the north of Wales is found the most 
 picturesque scenery diversified in moun- 
 tain, valley, and coast. The chief gates 
 to this section are Chester and Shrews- 
 bury. 
 
 From Chester one is within easy reach 
 of Conway where is situated the famous 
 castle of that name, justly considered one 
 of the finest in England. Water reaches 
 two sides of the great rock on which it 
 stands ; the rest is within the walls of the 
 town of which it forms a part. Near by 
 at Carnavon is another even more exten- 
 sive castle with a walled town. The 
 vicinity of the coast here is full of appeal 
 with its great rugged cliffs and indented 
 shore. Four of the chief places of inter- 
 
What to See Abroad 133 
 
 est are Llandudno, a historic watering 
 place, Great Orme's Head, Bangor and 
 Penrhyn Castle, and the famous isle of 
 Anglesey with Beaumoris Castle. 
 
 Inland a short distance is the moun- 
 tain district of Snowdon. From the little 
 village of Beth Gellert — an ideal spot in 
 its picturesque mountain surrounded 
 houses — the most desirable places are 
 within easy reach. There is Llanberis, 
 often spoken of as the Chamonix of Wales, 
 with the wild Llanberis Pass, where there 
 is instant change from dense forest to 
 crags of richly colored rocks, and again 
 glens thick with moss and trailing vines. 
 Snowdon (3,560 ft.), the highest moun- 
 tain in England or Wales, is reached 
 from here, and from its summit one may 
 have a wonderful and extended view over 
 the country to the sea. South and east 
 lies Llangollen where one may visit Valle 
 Crucis Abbey, a romantic ruin of the 
 Fourteenth Century. In this section 
 other places that may be visited are Port 
 Madoc and Harlech, Bettwys-y-Coed, 
 Blaenan Ffestiniog, and Dolgelly, with 
 its beautiful mountain, Cader Idris. 
 
 The great charm of this part of Wales 
 is the ever varying character of the land- 
 scape, from quaint village to wild wood- 
 land, and from bare crag to forest tarn, 
 with occasional glimpses of rough and 
 
134 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 ragged coast. There is a great oppor- 
 tunity for the traveler who wishes walk- 
 ing tours, and it is very easy to make 
 arrangements for drives in any sort of 
 equipage from a buggy to a brake. 
 
 South Wales is reached from Glouces- 
 ter by way of Cardiff and Swansea, and 
 is valued as the haunt of the pedestrian 
 traveler. The sea coast bears the chief 
 interest of this section and contains 
 strange remains of the earlier civilization. 
 There are stretches of wild moor and 
 woodland, cromlech and shattered cliff. 
 The main places of interest are the Gower 
 Peninsula, Tenby and Manorbier Castle, 
 Pembroke Castle and St. David's, with 
 its cathedral, and Monkton Priory. 
 
 Now that steamships land at Fish- 
 guard on the west coast of Wales, this 
 district via the Severn Tunnel is on the 
 direct route to London. 
 
 Brittany 
 
 In all Europe probably no section pre- 
 sents such a succession of medieval towns 
 as Brittany. From remarkable Mont St. 
 Michel, perched high on its rocky emi- 
 nence washed by ocean tides, around the 
 entire circuit of its fascinating towns to 
 Vitre, the unspoiled, the traveler finds in 
 Brittany a kaleidoscope of ancient cities 
 with centuries-old gabled houses, curious 
 
What to See Abroad 135 
 
 streets, delightful time-scarred churches, 
 not magnificent like those in the sister 
 province of Normandy, but old and per- 
 meated with the atmosphere of ages past, 
 arcaded streets, pretty turreted cha- 
 teaux, an occasional castle of the Middle 
 Ages frowning down on the now peaceful 
 inhabitants, and peasants whose very 
 dress seems to defy the progress which 
 is creeping so slowly into this rugged 
 peninsula. 
 
 This peninsula of west-central France, 
 washed by the English Channel and the 
 Atlantic Ocean, a little larger than the 
 State of Maryland, is a rugged country 
 of stern, wild coast and rocky promon- 
 tory, granite-seamed hills, wooded 
 heights, rocky moorland, tree-studded 
 fields and deep-cut valleys — a landscape 
 ever changing and never monotonous. 
 
 Just as Normandy, which lies immedi- 
 ately to the north, is the home of magnifi- 
 cent ecclesiastical architecture, so Brit- 
 tany has an idividuality of its own ex- 
 pressed in these singular towns and sim- 
 ple peasants dressed in the costumes of 
 their ancestors. 
 
 The costumes of the peasants are strik- 
 ing. The distinctive feature is the head- 
 dress worn by the women. The men wear 
 shoes or sabots and are clad in either 
 short jackets or loose blue smocks, flar- 
 
136 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 ing trousers and broad-brimmed hats with 
 velvet streamers. On wedding and 'par- 
 don or feast days both men and women 
 array themselves in the most remarkably 
 brilliant clothes of richly embroidered 
 silk and velvet. 
 
 Here at least is a country where es- 
 cape may be had from the high cost of 
 living. The hotels are not pretentious, 
 but are neat and the food good. The cost 
 per day of room and board need not be 
 more than $1.50 or $2.00. 
 
 Although remote in civilization, Brit- 
 tany is readily accessible. St. Malo is 
 overnight by rail from Paris or by boat 
 from Southampton, England. From here 
 a tour of the fringe of interesting towns 
 can begin and the circuit completed at 
 Vitre, which is the most easterly city 
 and is only five hours from Paris. 
 
 A circular tour of Brittany, from 
 Paris and return, covering every town 
 worth visiting, can be had for exactly 
 eighty-five francs, or seventeen dollars, 
 second class, the way you are likely to 
 travel if you are sensible and demo- 
 cratic. 
 
 A circular tour of Brittany should 
 include the following towns: Mont St. 
 Michel, St. Malo, Dinan, Morlaix, Lan- 
 derneau, Douarnenez, Quimper, Rospor- 
 den, Concarneau, Pont Aven, Quimperle, 
 
What to See Abroad 137 
 
 Carnac (for the ancient Celtic ruins), 
 Quiberon, Vannes, Josselin, and Vitre. 
 
 Dalmatia 
 
 Dalmatia, which is Austrian territory, 
 offers a coast line not often seen by the 
 tourist, but replete with architectural 
 antiquities and interesting peoples. The 
 Italian influence has been felt all down 
 along this Adriatic shore and often the 
 costumes and appearance of the people 
 are identical with those of the Italians. 
 Gravosa is one of the walled cities of 
 medieval Europe that time has not 
 changed materially. Spalato was the 
 birthplace of the composer, Franz von 
 Suppe, and contains the most renowned 
 domestic ruin of Roman times — the an- 
 cient palace of the Emperor Diocletian. 
 A few miles outside the city they are 
 excavating Salona — a Dalmatian Pom- 
 peii. Zara is the home of the maraschino 
 industry and the capital of Dalmatia. 
 Cattaro, farther down, has a harbor 
 which is the best fortified by nature of 
 any in the world, and from here a most 
 interesting and entirely comfortable trip 
 may be made by stage twenty-eight miles 
 across the mountains to Cettinje, the 
 capital of Montenegro. The view of the 
 Bay of Cattaro from the mountain 
 heights is one never to be forgotten. 
 
138 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 Denmark 
 
 Denmark is a curious little country of 
 a peninsula and many islands. The Vi- 
 kings were sailors of necessity if they 
 went visiting much, even among them- 
 selves. The countryside is charming. 
 Copenhagen is a large clean city with 
 many interesting buildings. The genius 
 of the sculptor Thorwaldsen is seen at its 
 best in the Church of Our Lady and the 
 Thorwaldsen Museum. 
 
 France 
 
 From Nantes in Brittany it is but a 
 step to Angers and Tours, the best bases 
 of operations from which to make little 
 excursions into the surrounding chateau 
 district, which includes much of the prov- 
 inces of Anjou, Maine and Touraine. 
 Here the tourist finds French domestic 
 architecture and landscape gardening at 
 their best, for in this region are the an- 
 cestral homes of the nabobs of French 
 nobility. Each imposing estate fairly 
 reeks with romance. By virtue of its un- 
 excelled highways and its beautiful, yet 
 formal, scenery, this chateau district of 
 France is a delight to the motorist. 
 
 The Riviera 
 
 The French Riviera along the Medi- 
 
What to See Abroad 139 
 
 terranean and its Italian relative across 
 the border, are set with a string of 
 famous places that aspire to being winter 
 resorts. Edged in front with deep bays 
 and inlets of azure and well protected 
 from the north winds by a chain of hills 
 in the rear, the whole coast line is re- 
 splendent in sub-tropical verdure. Not 
 alone in winter time, but in summer as 
 well, it is peopled with a hodge-podge of 
 humanity from all over the world, always 
 holiday bent — and expense not consid- 
 ered. 
 
 From Cannes to Ventimiglia in Italy 
 the scenery is exquisite and striking in its 
 variety. Charming little valleys lead 
 hither and thither to unexpected nooks 
 and picturesque glimpses among the 
 hills, with here and there a view of the 
 snow-capped Maritime Alps. It is a de- 
 lightful region through which to motor, 
 although the roads are not always as good 
 as they might be. Cannes, Antibes and 
 Manton are among the more important 
 towns, while Nice, with its casino and 
 sumptuous hotels, is the magnetic pole of 
 the district socially, and Monte Carlo is 
 the chief attraction. Here there are no 
 types worth mentioning, except the ever 
 interesting foreigner, be he German, 
 Russian or American, on a vacation. 
 Serious enterprise seems to be lacking 
 
140 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 altogether; everything — even the climate 
 and the scenery — is meant to promulgate 
 frivolous enjoyment. 
 
 The Rhone Valley 
 
 The Rhone Valley is known sometimes 
 as the Italy of France. It is full of 
 romance, beautiful and ancient buildings 
 and charming landscapes. It has many 
 ancient Roman ruins and some of the 
 most picturesquely situated towns in 
 Europe. Le Puv is one of these. At 
 Nimes there is one of the finest and best 
 preserved Roman temples extant. There 
 is also an amphitheater which though 
 smaller than the Coliseum at Rome rivals 
 it in beauty. These are two examples of 
 many remains of the Caesars. The Rhone 
 Valley is the land of the Troubadours and 
 some of its ancient atmosphere still re- 
 mains to-day. The costumes of the peas- 
 ants are quaint and the people are inter- 
 esting. There is enough variety in the 
 landscape to make it far from monoton- 
 ous. 
 
 Germany 
 
 Germany, more than anything, is a 
 country of large, clean and beautiful 
 cities. Still, it is not without its delight- 
 fully curious corners. Throughout parts 
 of the Harz Mountain district in the 
 
What to See Abroad 141 
 
 north and within easy access of Berlin, 
 and in the Black Forest in the south and 
 best reached from Zurich or Heidelberg, 
 the grandeur of the mountain scenery 
 compares favorably with the best known 
 tourist centers of Switzerland. 
 
 The Black Forest 
 
 This intensely interesting region of 
 pine and fir forest, wooded mountain, and 
 fertile, cultivated valley, can be entered 
 by way of Heidelberg and Baden. It is 
 almost entirely in the Grand Duchy of 
 Baden, and beside its scenic charm has 
 interest in the many picturesque and 
 brilliant costumes of the inhabitants of 
 the district. There is a walking club 
 that gives most detailed information to 
 the tourists, and the routes are well 
 marked. The excellent German forestry 
 laws have made the entire section easy 
 for pedestrian travel. The roads are of 
 the best, and automobile or carriage 
 tours are delightful. The Hohenweg is 
 a posted route for foot travelers, and 
 starting from Pforzheim, a short distance 
 from Heidelberg, includes the most desir- 
 able districts of which the wild grandeur 
 of the Hdllental and Titisel is worthy of 
 remark. 
 The Rhine 
 
 The Rhine is possibly the most dis- 
 
142 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 tinctive feature of the whole German Em- 
 pire, in that it traverses the nation from 
 its southernmost boundary to the north- 
 ern border of Holland. From Basle to 
 the German Ocean it is 525 miles long. 
 It varies from a little over half a mile at 
 the Holland boundary to one-eighth of a 
 mile at the Rhemgon district. The most 
 famous territory is from Cologne to 
 Mayence. 
 
 In this section are the most traveled 
 excursion districts and the most noted 
 castles. Cologne is the traffic center and 
 steamers ply up and down, taking twelve 
 and a half hours from Cologne to 
 Mayence, and seven and three-quarters 
 hours on the return trip. It is prefer- 
 able to go up stream, as there is more 
 favorable opportunity to view the scen- 
 ery, and the fare is one-sixth less. Tickets 
 may be bought allowing great stop-over 
 privileges, and the opportunity to travel, 
 either by boat or train, from place to 
 place, as one wishes. 
 
 The whole district is of volcanic origin, 
 and this cause gives rise to the peculiar 
 cliffs, valleys, and crater lakes. At Co- 
 logne, the usual starting point of trips, 
 one may visit the Cathedral which has 
 the reputation of being the most magnifi- 
 cent example of Gothic architecture in 
 the world. Going south along the river 
 
What to See Abroad 143 
 
 a pleasant excursion may be made by 
 stopping at Bonn, an interesting univer- 
 sity town. From here as a base, the 
 justly famous Seven Mountain district 
 on the opposite bank may be walked over. 
 Wooded hills are particularly beautiful, 
 and the paths with their roadside shrines 
 give the impression of being remote from 
 modern civilization. The old Heisterbach 
 Abbey ruin is traversed and the ascent of 
 Petersberg and the Drachenfels easily 
 accomplished, affording wonderful views 
 of the river and surrounding country. 
 
 The ascent of the stream from here 
 gives the traveler a most impressive idea 
 of medieval history. Ruined castles of 
 robber barons sit high on almost every 
 cliff, and thickly wooded slopes alternate 
 with vine-clad hills. Behind Andernach 
 is the beautiful volcanic Laacher See and 
 the Abbey near by. At Coblenz is the 
 imposing fortress of Ehrenbreitstein, 
 while farther up at St. Goarhausen is the 
 Lorelei rock. At Rudersheim to Johan- 
 nisberg the river narrows and is most 
 picturesque, affording a constantly diver- 
 sified panorama. 
 
 Mayence, 115 miles from Cologne, is a 
 short distance above. This town has had 
 a continuous existence from the first cen- 
 tury B. C, and contains some of the 
 most noted Roman relics in Europe. 
 
144 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 Near by is the health resort of Wies- 
 baden, from where excursions may be 
 made to the forest district of the Taunus 
 mountains. 
 
 The Moselle branches off southeast 
 from the Rhine at Coblenz, and is of al- 
 most equal scenic value with the ad- 
 vantage of being less traveled. A most 
 pleasant tour may be made of this district 
 by boat, taking two days and breaking the 
 journey over night at Trarbach. At 
 Kreuznach outside of Coblenz is the great 
 crag, Rheingrafenstein, rising perpendic- 
 ularly from the stream and the outlaw's 
 castle at Ebenburg. Treves or Triev is 
 at the border into Luxembourg. Here 
 there is an interesting Roman amphithea- 
 ter and bath in excellent preservation. 
 From Mayence, the Rhine turns almost 
 due south to Basle and borders the west- 
 ern end of the Black Forest. 
 
 From Basle the river turns at right 
 angles and runs on to the Lake of Con- 
 stance. From Schaffhausen, a sleepy lit- 
 tle town of medieval aspect, the Rhine 
 falls may be visited, though their reputa- 
 tion will suffer with the man who has 
 seen Niagara. The river trip from 
 Schaffhausen to Constance is a delightful 
 one, entirely different from the other 
 districts in its low banks. At the lake the 
 river widens out in great bays. The lake 
 
What to See Abroad 145 
 
 itself is over forty miles, and borders on 
 five States. The town of Constance is 
 the execution place of Huss and contains 
 many interesting relics of the Middle 
 Ages. 
 
 The long line of railroad from Berlin, 
 south and east, via Leipzic to Frankfort, 
 separates the two Central Germany forest 
 districts. A little north of Eisenach is 
 the way to the Harz mountain district, a 
 section of great scenic grandeur where 
 are wild rock cliffs, thick, black forest 
 and the most picturesque peasant towns. 
 The medieval village of Goslar breathes 
 the charm of this romantic territory ; it 
 was once the seat of the Holy Roman Em- 
 perors. The Brocken with its wild crags, 
 has appeared in "Faust" and is the scene 
 of many tales of magic and superstition. 
 The Valley of Ochre, Harzberg and 
 Ilsenberg are among the finest touring 
 sections in Europe. 
 
 South from Eisenach, which was 
 Luther's town, rise the green wooded 
 mountains of Thuringia, with a little 
 milder beauty than the Harz. The Wart- 
 burg, where Luther was held, crowns a 
 hill on the outskirts of the town. Both 
 wooded sections are full of romance and 
 each has its individual charm. 
 
 Directly south from Berlin the way 
 goes into Saxony. Dresden, the chief 
 
146 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 city, has its greatest fame through art 
 and music. On the outskirts beyond 
 Pirna are the peculiar rock formations 
 of Saxon Switzerland. 
 
 Holland 
 
 Holland is characterized by the curious 
 customs and costumes of its small towns 
 and out-of-the-way places, by its wealth 
 of windmills, by its tree-lined brick roads, 
 and by the general aspect of its below- 
 sea-level topography. Only by its dykes 
 and its incessant pumping does it keep 
 itself intact. Girdled with these life-pre- 
 serving dykes and treading water with its 
 windmills it manages not only to keep its 
 head above water but with each year it 
 tries to cheat the ocean by reclaiming a 
 small part of its body. It has a type of 
 scenery, therefore, all its own. Because 
 the country is so inconceivably small the 
 traveler can see all of it that is particu- 
 larly interesting in from three to five 
 days — a week at the most. In no other 
 section of Europe are the distances be- 
 tween towns so short ; in no other section 
 are the modes and conveniences of reach- 
 ing these towns so varied. If the traveler 
 relies solely upon the railway trains to 
 carry him from one place to another he 
 may be compelled to wait a couple of 
 hours in order to ride a few minutes. A 
 
What to See Abroad 147 
 
 happy convenience of steam tram lines 
 and electric services and railways and 
 canal packets enables him to get about 
 without loss of time and to penetrate the 
 more remote parts of the country which 
 one or the other of the different methods 
 of transportation may overlook. 
 
 Only that part of Holland to the west 
 of the Zuyder Zee is looked upon as the 
 tourist district. Here may be found all 
 the important places of interest, includ- 
 ing The Hague and Scheveningen, Delft, 
 Amsterdam, Haarlem, Rotterdam, Dor- 
 trecht and Utrecht. Volendam and the 
 Island of Marken, just near Amsterdam, 
 are the show places for types, while The 
 Hague is Holland's most beautiful and 
 most expensive city and contains the most 
 notable works of Dutch art. But many 
 travelers overlook what is probably the 
 most typical section of Holland with 
 respect to both costumes and scenery — 
 the Island of Walcheren. Flushing, its 
 gateway, is but two or three miles from 
 Middleburg, the principal town of the 
 district and containing some historic 
 buildings. The Walcheren costume is 
 particularly striking and a day's drive 
 around the island will enable the traveler 
 to obtain some comprehensive glimpses 
 of Dutch rural life. The giant dyke at 
 Westkapelle, next to the one at The 
 
148 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 Helder that fortifies North Holland 
 against the sea's encroachment, is the 
 most important in the country and well 
 worth inspection. 
 
 Italy 
 
 Generally speaking, Italy is a rather 
 slovenly country. Its public buildings 
 are constantly in a state of disrepair and 
 the scenery along some of its railway 
 lines resembles what might be expected in 
 the vicinity of a municipal ash heap. 
 Beggars are importunate, and since rail- 
 way communication has put a stop to the 
 operations of the brigands in Sicily, it is 
 quite within the bounds of supposition 
 that they crossed the Straits to Italy 
 and commenced forthwith the more lucra- 
 tive and scarcely less legitimate occupa- 
 tion of begging. 
 
 The Lake District 
 
 The Italian Lakes which are gener- 
 ally agreed upon as being the most beau- 
 tiful in the world are found in the ex- 
 treme northern part of the country, some 
 of them indeed lying partly in Switzer- 
 land and partly in Italy, and Lake 
 Garda to the extreme east being partly in 
 Austria as well as in Italy. All this 
 stretch of country partakes of the char- 
 acter of Switzerland in the west and of 
 
What to See Abroad 149 
 
 the Tyrol in the east. The most impor- 
 tant of these lakes are Lake Maggiore, 
 Lake Lugano, Lake Como, and Lake 
 Garcia, the last being perhaps the most 
 beautiful of the lot. In addition to these 
 are many smaller and less known lakes 
 which possess, however, exquisite beauty. 
 Lake Maggiore is the largest (unless it 
 be Garda) and has some wide reaches of 
 beautiful, island set water. Pallanza, 
 which is one of the favorite resorts on the 
 shores, is an exquisite town. Lugano 
 and Como are more river-like bodies of 
 water, Como being by far the wilder of 
 the two, the snow-capped mountains com- 
 ing close to the shore at all points. The 
 shores of all these lakes are studded with 
 picturesque villages and private villas, 
 and the color of the water, the atmos- 
 phere, and the shores combine in long to 
 be remembered pictures. It is never too 
 hot here for comfort and the summer can 
 be passed around the lakes with entire 
 satisfaction. 
 
 Lake Garda is not only beautiful be- 
 cause of the surroundings, but because of 
 the astonishing color of the water itself, 
 which is not unlike that of the Morning 
 Glory Pool in the Yellowstone. 
 
 These lakes can be reached in three or 
 four hours' ride from Lucerne or Geneva 
 in Switzerland, or in about the same 
 
150 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 length of time from Milan, which in turn 
 is only a few hours' distance from Genoa. 
 If anyone intended to do simply the lakes 
 and the hill country, Genoa would be the 
 proper place to land. Garda lies between 
 Milan and Venice, although as seen from 
 its southern extremity, at the point where 
 the railroad between these two cities 
 comes to its banks, it gives but a faint 
 idea of its real beauties which develop 
 farther to the north. 
 
 The Hill Towns 
 
 Florence may be called the gateway to 
 the hill country, which stretches across 
 the north-central part of Italy from the 
 Mediterranean to the Adriatic. Crown- 
 ing the hills of this region are numberless 
 cities and villages preserving unspoiled 
 the extraordinary charm with which the 
 builders of the Middle Ages invested 
 them; of the Middle Ages and still far- 
 ther in the past, for here was the oldest 
 civilization in Italy, that of the Etrus- 
 cans. Volterra, for instance, was old be- 
 fore Rome was born, and Perugia was a 
 power while Rome was yet a village. The 
 landscape is the most beautiful in the 
 country, outside of the coasts, and the 
 ancient cities are more picturesque than 
 can be found elsewhere in the Peninsula. 
 The people are most kindly and courte- 
 
What to See Abroad 151 
 
 ous, and the elevation prevents the tem- 
 perature rising in summer beyond that 
 which we are accustomed to here in the 
 United States. 
 
 Perugia is absolutely startling in its 
 unique beauty as it crouches like a lion 
 upon its great hills. In view from its 
 walls is Assisi, the home of St. Francis, 
 with a church that contains some of 
 the most wonderful coloring in the world, 
 and streets that are perfect pictures of 
 medieval times. Sienna has been termed 
 by somebody "a city of the soul" and has 
 a strangeness and a charm all its own. It 
 would be impossible to catalog all these 
 cities of the hills, for there are twenty or 
 thirty of them that are all well worth vis- 
 iting. No one can possibly be said to 
 know Italy who does not know at least 
 some of these wonderful old towns. 
 
 Normandy 
 
 Normandy, to the north of Brittany, 
 contains no grand and imposing scenery 
 and but few types; but its castles, ca- 
 thedrals and abbeys are the finest in 
 France. It seems to be the birthplace of 
 ecclesiastical architecture, and in no sec- 
 tion of Europe may the history of this 
 architecture be studied to better advan- 
 tage. Hotels are generally good and 
 living is comparatively cheap. Ten francs 
 
152 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 a day, added to the expense of purchas- 
 ing a sectional railway ticket, will allow 
 any tourist not afflicted with the habit of 
 stopping at the most expensive hotels to 
 make a profitable sojourn in Normandy. 
 Rouen, the principal city and architec- 
 tural capital of the province, and Evreux, 
 Lisieux and Caen offer the best examples 
 of Gothic edifices. 
 
 Norway 
 
 Norway is over a thousand miles long 
 from the North Cape to the southern 
 tip. Its rugged mountains, and its coast 
 line made picturesquely irregular by the 
 long narrow bays hemmed in on either side 
 by towering cliffs, give the country a 
 scenic distinction possessed by no other 
 land. The Norwegian roads are among 
 the finest in the world and the tourist will 
 do much of his traveling by carriage from 
 which the magnificence of the scenery may 
 be duly appreciated. Another striking 
 feature of Norway is the great number of 
 beautiful water-falls. 
 
 In the North is the country of the 
 Lapps, who with their reindeer beasts of 
 burden are picturesque but personally un- 
 attractive. 
 
 Christiana, the capital, is not espe- 
 cially interesting from an architectural 
 standpoint, but as the seat of government 
 
What to See Abroad 153 
 
 and the usual landing place it cannot well 
 be omitted. 
 
 Portugal 
 
 In contrast to Spain, the fertility of 
 Portugal's soil is remarkable, and in vege- 
 tation it is probably the richest land in 
 Europe. Grain, vegetables and fruits are 
 easily cultivated, and the fisheries along 
 the coast are scarcely surpassed in pro- 
 ductiveness by the land. 
 
 No country in the world presents more 
 variety in scenery than Portugal. Along 
 the Tagus are marshes that remind one of 
 parts of Holland ; in the northern sec- 
 tion are mountains that are almost Al- 
 pine in character, while the region of the 
 Douro, with its vineyard terraces rising 
 one above another, suggests the country 
 of the Rhine. 
 
 The best way to reach Portugal is by 
 boat from Southampton to Lisbon, a mat- 
 ter of three days' run. The Booth Line 
 issues excursion tickets at a very low rate, 
 and includes railroad fares and hotel cou- 
 pons for an entire tour of the country. 
 Its boats are smaller than those of the 
 Royal Mail, which are as good as any- 
 thing on the Atlantic, but are said to be 
 very comfortable. On leaving Portugal 
 the American traveler could go very com- 
 fortably to Madrid, a sleeping car being 
 
154 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 run between Lisbon and Madrid three 
 times a week, and then after seeing the 
 cities of northern Spain work south and 
 go home by the way of Gibraltar. This 
 is altogether preferable to attempting to 
 go into Portugal from Spain, and then 
 back again, as the railroad service be- 
 tween southern Spain and any town in 
 Portugal is so poor as to be practically 
 prohibitory. The railway service in Por- 
 tugal is excellent, by far ahead of Spain, 
 and the country is full of curious and in- 
 teresting places. Besides Cintra and 
 Bussaco, whose natural beauty is unsur- 
 passed, there is a most extraordinary 
 shrine at Braga which is very well worth 
 a visit. Thomar has a wonderful old 
 castle-church above the town, where 
 amid the crumbling walls there reposes in 
 a glass casket the body of the Grand In- 
 quisitor of Portugal, dead now these many 
 centuries. You come upon this ghastly 
 sight as you climb the lonely stairs, and 
 believe me it is enough to give one nerv- 
 ous prostration, and why the boys 
 haven't thrown stones at him through the 
 glass during all the years that he has lain 
 there in his solitary decay, is one of the 
 mysteries of the country. At Coimbra 
 there is a great university and a pic- 
 turesque ruin, and a castle at Leria is also 
 very beautiful. On the drive between 
 
What to See Abroad 155 
 
 these two towns there is an ancient abbey 
 in the florid Portuguese style which is a 
 very extraordinary piece of architecture. 
 South of Lisbon there is a number of in- 
 teresting cities, Evora and others. 
 
 Russia 
 
 Traveling in Russia is uncomfortable 
 and the country itself is foreboding. The 
 distances between places are great and the 
 rides are monotonous both on account of 
 the dearth of enlivening scenery and the 
 fact that Russian railroads are govern- 
 mental monopolies. The customs exam- 
 inations are encountered with surprising 
 regularity all over the country. The most 
 traveled section of Russia for the tourist 
 is between St. Petersburg and Moscow. 
 St. Petersburg is the great metropolis 
 where the population is composed of a 
 rather varied strata of society. It is a 
 city of magnificent buildings and animated 
 thoroughfares and it is the most unhealthy 
 capital of Europe. 
 
 Moscow with its great Kremlin and its 
 seething population offers many sights 
 to the tourist and has much in common 
 with St. Petersburg. Hotel accommoda- 
 tions will be found good. 
 
 Sicily 
 
 The ancient temples of Sicily, now that 
 
156 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 brigandage has become an industry of the 
 past, tempt the tourist continually, and 
 the picturesque villages along the coast 
 invite him to linger among them as long 
 as his time allows. Types are more 
 abundant than in Italy. Here are the 
 ruins of the ancient city of Syracuse as 
 well as many other Greek and Roman 
 towns. 
 
 Spain 
 
 Spain, as a whole, is unfortunate In 
 having her most interesting historic treas- 
 ures hidden away in her most unattrac- 
 tive and inaccessible towns. Except in 
 the south, the country is barren and de- 
 void of scenic beauty, but the cities and 
 smaller towns hold much that is of espe- 
 cial import to the tourist, particularly 
 in the way of architecture influenced by 
 Moorish design. Madrid of course should 
 be visited by every tourist to Spain, for 
 it is perhaps the center of the country's 
 social life as well as being the capital. 
 Here are the famous Prado, several fine 
 collections of old paintings, libraries, mu- 
 seums and the always interesting churches. 
 Seville, while it may not justify the old 
 Spanish saying to the effect that " he 
 who has not seen Seville has not seen a 
 marvelous place," nevertheless is one of 
 the most famous cities of Spain, as well 
 
What to See Abroad 157 
 
 for what it has been as for what it is to- 
 day. Among the smaller cities Toledo 
 deserves especial attention, for with its 
 great rocky hill and its half deserted, 
 grim appearance of romantic age, it is 
 peculiarly impressive. It is here that the 
 Toledo blades, famous for centuries for 
 their quality and beauty, are made. The 
 Spanish railway gauge differs from that 
 of the French; the trains creep along as 
 if ashamed of themselves, as they ought to 
 be, and rarely exceed a speed of fifteen 
 miles an hour. 
 
 Sweden 
 
 Sweden is noted for the number of lakes 
 within its borders — they compose one- 
 twelfth of its entire area. One can sail 
 directly across the country in comfort- 
 able boats by a canal which connects the 
 Cattegat and the Baltic, and the experi- 
 ence is worth having. 
 
 Stockholm, the capital city, is active 
 and bustling, and the people are pleasure- 
 loving and courteous. There are many 
 beautiful buildings and statues of illus- 
 trious Swedes. 
 
 Switzerland 
 
 Many Americans, asserting that they 
 have viewed the most magnificent moun- 
 tain scenery in the world in their own 
 
158 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 country such as the Adirondacks, the 
 Rockies, the Alleghenies, express little in- 
 terest in anticipation of a visit to Swit- 
 zerland. These good people should know 
 that the scenery of Switzerland and that 
 of the Canadian Rockies for example, 
 while both remarkable in their grandeur 
 and equally inspiring, are entirely dif- 
 ferent. Switzerland is unlike anything 
 but itself. Its scenery combines in a re- 
 markable way the wild and the cultivated. 
 The contrasts presented in the wonder- 
 ful turquoise-colored lakes, neat closely 
 cropped meadows of the valleys, resem- 
 bling patchwork quilts, with picturesque 
 nestling villages or isolated chalets im- 
 maculate in their tidiness, stupendous 
 crags of towering mountains with their 
 background of snow-capped peaks, make 
 a picturesqueness that is individually its 
 own. 
 
 Switzerland is the playground of Eu- 
 rope. Its art and architecture are of no 
 consequence, but in scenery it is pre-emi- 
 nent. Its hotels are the best and most 
 reasonable on the Continent, and it makes 
 a specialty of catering to the tourist. In 
 no other country may a vacation be more 
 profitably spent. It is a paradise for 
 the pedestrian, and the various mountain 
 trips may best be taken on foot. The 
 distinctive type of Swiss house, or chalet, 
 
What to See Abroad 159 
 
 adds much to the general composition of 
 almost every view. There are beautiful 
 lakes, towering peaks, glaciers, forests of 
 pine, and the highways and foot paths 
 are kept in the best condition. As in 
 Holland, there is in Switzerland a num- 
 ber of different methods of transporta- 
 tion. Steam railways, of course, inter- 
 sect the country ; on every lake plies a 
 line of good steamers ; finiculaire rail- 
 ways climb the highest peaks ; and there 
 are numerous electric lines. 
 
 The Tyrol 
 
 The Tyrol is the eastern arm of Aus- 
 tria that is hedged in by Bavaria, Swit- 
 zerland, and Italy. One of its great at- 
 tractions is this combination of the char- 
 acteristics of three countries. Innsbruck 
 is the chief city, and one of the most strik- 
 ing in Europe with its richly carved 
 houses, arcades, and the beautiful snow- 
 capped mountain rising, as it seems, al- 
 most out of the public square. The up- 
 per Inn valley is famous for the beauti- 
 ful valleys, little toy-like villages, and the 
 wonderful slopes at the foot of the snow 
 mountains. Jenback and Ziller Tal com- 
 mand the tourist's attention. Farther 
 south lies picturesque Bozen, the traveling 
 center for the Southern Tyrol. About 
 this town and Meran are famous castles, 
 
160 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 some almost as they were in the Middle 
 Ages. The views of the Dolomites from 
 here are magnificent. Farther east lie 
 the strange, gigantic bare rocks of the 
 Dolomites with their twisted fantastic 
 forms. When seen at sunset or sunrise 
 they are marvelous. 
 
 South the Tyrol borders Lake Garda. 
 Riva and Trient are very Italian in char- 
 acter, but are still Tyrolese. Beside the 
 scenic beauties which rival Switzerland's, 
 there is the interest of the people with 
 their variant costumes and the pursuits 
 and occupations of an earlier day still 
 unspoiled by the tourist. 
 
V 
 
 SHOPPING ABROAD 
 
 SHOPPING abroad offers a problem to 
 the traveler that is rarely, if ever, 
 found on this side of the water ; shoppers 
 are expected to buy and not merely to 
 "shop," as is the custom in America. 
 The shops are for the purpose of selling 
 goods to people who know what they want 
 before they start from home, and not for 
 the purpose of displaying attractive things 
 which the shopper doesn't dream of buy- 
 ing until he sees them. Especially is this 
 true in England. 
 
 Of late years, however, certain well 
 known shops in London which enjoy the 
 largest American patronage have con- 
 descended to allow a general inspection of 
 what they hope to tempt the tourist with ; 
 but in most British stores the shopper is 
 expected to make a purchase, whether the 
 article found there suits him or not. If 
 he does not buy he is treated coldly and 
 even rudely by the shopkeeper and clerks. 
 The secret of the system is this : the clerk 
 is required to "make a sale," and a cer- 
 tain number of failures will lose her her 
 position. Even the British themselves be- 
 161 
 
162 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 moan the practice, but for many years 
 it has been the custom in a country where 
 Twentieth Century conditions and modern 
 methods make the least impression upon 
 time-honored traditions, and the shopper 
 is powerless. 
 
 A number of years ago an enterprising 
 business man from Chicago — Selfridge, by 
 name — having been long associated with 
 one of the greatest department stores in 
 this country, conceived the idea of build- 
 ing a "department store" in London and 
 operating it in the American manner. 
 The Englishman (who has not remained 
 silent on the subject of the invasion of 
 his country by American business meth- 
 ods) smiled in his sleeve at the huge piece 
 of contemplated folly. Yet he was in- 
 terested to a -certain extent, and when the 
 store opened formally he came with his 
 wife and daughters to look the thing over. 
 Much of it he could not comprehend; the 
 idea of buying groceries and drygoods 
 under the same roof; the courteous treat- 
 ment he received from the employes (of 
 English birth, mostly, but thoroughly 
 coached in the American system). He 
 failed to understand the "lifts," and when 
 one, loaded to the gunwale, was going 
 down, he didn't understand why it re- 
 fused to stop at the fifth or the third floor 
 and carry him up to the seventh. And 
 
Shopping Abroad 163 
 
 the idea of having a restaurant on the top 
 floor ! Preposterous ! And a tea room 
 on the roof! Extr'ord'n'ry ! Silly, per- 
 fectly silly, and bally tommy rot ! 
 
 And so he went back home with his wife 
 and daughters, having found a good ex- 
 cuse to indulge in his favorite indoor 
 sport of writing letters to the newspapers. 
 
 For the first couple of years, the Eng- 
 lishman, although dissatisfied with his 
 own system, resented the American idea 
 and refused to patronize Selfridge's. 
 The store lost money. But in the sum- 
 mer the Americans flocked to the place. 
 It began to make the other shops "sit up 
 and take notice." After a while the Eng- 
 lishman began to think there must be 
 some little advantage in it after all. To- 
 day you will find as many English "shop- 
 pers" in Selfridge's as there are Ameri- 
 cans. They go in with a sneer and come 
 out with a snigger. They are "getting 
 the habit." By the grace of Selfridge 
 you can now go into Liberty's and simply 
 look around without being insulted; also 
 in Mapin and Webb's and Jay's and Swan 
 and Edgar's and Harrod's and half a 
 dozen other stores, where, a few years 
 ago, you felt like a culprit if you failed 
 to buy something. 
 
 To walk through Bond Street from Ox- 
 ford to Piccadilly is a treat for any in- 
 
164 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 veterate shopper. The street is so nar- 
 row that you can easily vibrate back and 
 forth. It is the most celebrated as well 
 as the most fashionable shopping street 
 in London. There is every kind of shop 
 and there is every thing for sale from a 
 six-inch roasting ear at a penny an inch 
 to a diamond necklace worth — well, any- 
 one can tell you what a diamond necklace 
 is worth; but miniature roasting ears at 
 twelve cents each held my attention longer 
 than the diamond necklace. 
 
 In the fall, after the Americans have 
 sailed for home, prices of many things in 
 London drop considerably. Gloves come 
 down a shilling or more, for example, and 
 prices of other articles which the Ameri- 
 can dare not come home without are re- 
 duced more or less. 
 
 The so-called "Cooperative Stores" of 
 London carry on an immense trade with 
 those Englishmen who are not averse to 
 paying cash on the spot, and the American 
 patronage of them is increasing yearly. 
 Of these there are about thirty, the prin- 
 cipal companies being the Army and Navy 
 Cooperative Society, the Junior Army and 
 Navy Stores, the Civil Service Cooperative 
 Society, and the Civil Service Supply As- 
 sociation. To members of the different 
 societies or to the strangers vouched for 
 by a member these stores sell first-class 
 
Shopping Abroad 165 
 
 goods at the very moderate prices which 
 the economy of management and the satis- 
 faction with small profits enable them to 
 charge. 
 
 WHERE TO BUY 
 
 Amber 
 
 Naples and Rome. The Italians 
 make good use of their sea products, and 
 they know how to get for them their com- 
 mercial worth. Although native Italians 
 still cling to a superstitious belief in the 
 healing quality of this particular marine 
 plant, they are not averse to selling their 
 surplus supply to visiting foreigners. 
 
 Artificial Flowers 
 
 Paris. The making of these counter-, 
 feits of nature has been perfected in Paris, 
 and nowhere else can such beautiful, nat- 
 ural imitations be found: nor such lovely 
 adaptations of the real flowers, in gold, in 
 silver, in fur, in whatever material hap- 
 pens to be the fantasy of the moment. 
 
 Cameos 
 
 Venice and other Italian cities. Italy 
 is helped in the present day manufacture 
 of these quaint cut ornaments by the won- 
 derful antique examples in her museums. 
 The art sense is by no means dead in 
 Italy, and her workmen have still an un- 
 erring instinct for the good in design. 
 
166 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 Moreover they are skilful enough to re- 
 produce the ancient models faithfully. 
 
 China Ware and Pottery 
 
 In the cities famous for their special 
 brands ; English makes in London, Delft 
 and other Dutch wares in Holland, Dres- 
 den ware in Germany. Nearly every 
 one of the European countries has been at 
 one time noted for its particular make of 
 porcelain or pottery. Most of these na- 
 tional industries have been either revived 
 or continued, and while authentic old 
 specimens may be both rare and costly, 
 good modern replicas are everywhere to 
 be had, so that the traveler who has a 
 fondness for any special sort can find it. 
 
 There are also interesting potteries of 
 more recent introduction sold in special 
 districts. Devonshire in England has its 
 native ware distinguished by a good Mor- 
 ris green. The peasant pottery of Brit- 
 tany is justly celebrated for its decora- 
 tive naivete. Paris itself has an up-to- 
 date and very artistic gres invented by 
 the modern craftsmen and used for all 
 sorts of house ornaments such as electric 
 light stands, flower pots, even the more 
 delicate toilet table necessities. 
 
 Cigars 
 
 Holland and Belgium. Both countries 
 having tobacco growing dependencies can 
 
Shopping Abroad 167 
 
 produce for their home markets brands of 
 cigars which the tourist smoker will be 
 overjoyed to find, after the absurd pencil 
 "stogies" of Italy and the unbelievably 
 poor tobacco of France. 
 
 Cigarettes 
 
 Servia, Bulgaria, Russia and the Bal- 
 kan States, also Egypt. Eastern Europe 
 and the "Near East" seem to have a 
 special gift for cigarette making. There 
 are plenty of cigarette makers in Con- 
 stantinople and in Cairo who will furnish 
 the tourist with a personal cigarette, 
 marked with his monogram in gilt. 
 
 Clothes 
 
 Women's, Paris. Men's, London. Both 
 cities have for so long held suprem- 
 acy in their respective fields that their 
 special offerings are common tourist 
 knowledge. In general, women's gowns, 
 both for street and indoor wear, are best 
 bought in Paris. All the Paris depart- 
 ment stores keep excellent ready-made 
 models, and the Parisian dressmakers who 
 will create a costume on short notice are 
 legion. Their establishments are to be 
 found over the whole city, the most ex- 
 pensive and the most original being those 
 of the Place Vendome quarter, the cheaper 
 houses scattered through the less central 
 
168 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 districts. All of them do their work for 
 less relatively than would dressmakers of 
 their class in America. 
 
 Dress goods and millinery and ladies' 
 tailors and dressmakers and everything 
 that appeals in one way or another to Mi- 
 lady Fashionable seem to be indigenous to 
 France. Paris is the Capital of Style in 
 women's clothes and from there are flashed 
 around the world the ikons and edicts that 
 women must wear certain things certain 
 ways this spring or next fall if they would 
 even be glanced at by their neighbors. It 
 is scarcely necessary to say that women's 
 wearing apparel is cheap or expensive in 
 Paris, according to where it is bought or 
 who makes it. The workmanship and 
 style vary but little among the reliable 
 dressmakers. 
 
 Clothes, gloves, leather goods, cutlery, 
 china, silver and silks may all be bought 
 in London at the lowest prices. Oxford 
 Street, Regent Street, Bond Street and 
 Piccadilly are the fashionable shopping 
 centers. Over there they call a dry- 
 goods store a "drapery" and will posi- 
 tively refuse to understand you if you 
 give it the American nomenclature. Of 
 these Harrod's, 87 Brompton Road ; 
 Jay's, £43 Regent Street; Swan and Ed- 
 gar's, Piccadilly Circus ; Peter Robin- 
 son's, 216 Oxford Street and 256 Regent 
 
Shopping Abroad 169 
 
 Street; Liberty's, on Regent Street 
 (especially for Oriental fabrics, silks and 
 velvets) ; and Selfridge's, on Oxford 
 Street, are perhaps the best known. 
 
 Unless you go to some of the fashion- 
 able tailors on Piccadilly or Bond Street 
 you will not have to pay more than $20 
 for a suit of clothes, made to order of the 
 best cloth. But English tailors as a rule 
 can only make an English suit — narrow- 
 shouldered, tight-trousered and anything 
 but stylish, as we in America are accus- 
 tomed to wear them. But, of course, this 
 is English style and every man to his 
 taste. Most tailors will give you either 
 an American or an English cut, according 
 to your wish, for the same price. Among 
 the medium priced tailors you will pay 
 from $10 to $25 for a suit of clothes, 
 made to order, of course. A dress suit 
 and Tuxedo coat made of the best ma- 
 terial — which would cost no less than 
 $150 in America — will cost $45. 
 
 Coral 
 
 Naples and the small Italian coast 
 towns. Coral, like amber, is a staple ar- 
 ticle of sale in Italy, and Italian work- 
 men have arrived at treating this pretty 
 sea product to an astonishing degree of 
 decoration. It is made into every con- 
 ceivable ornament and sold for every pos- 
 
170 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 sible price, depending somewhat on the 
 tourist's knowledge of Italian trade meth- 
 ods. In Italy one may still bargain for 
 an article considered by the buyer too 
 high, and the price may thus be brought 
 down to as little as half the original fig- 
 ure. At any rate it does no harm to as- 
 sume a lukewarm interest in whatever is 
 offered, for that attitude will often have 
 quite as good an effect in lowering prices 
 as any amount of haggling. 
 
 In purchasing the shopper must be very 
 wary. Spurious articles are forced upon 
 the customer every way he turns. Usu- 
 ally the original price is doubled by the 
 salesman upon the first asking, and, ex- 
 cept in the most reputable shops, you will 
 be paying more than the article is worth 
 if you succeed in cutting his price in half. 
 All corals of the first water, whether beads 
 or in setting, which are sold in Italy, come 
 from Japan. But the cheaper and in- 
 ferior corals found in Italian waters can 
 be "doctored" and made to look suspic- 
 iously like Japanese corals. It is wise 
 to seek the advice of someone familiar with 
 the different species before purchasing, 
 else milady will wonder, when the weather 
 becomes warm, where the pink paint on 
 the collar of her shirtwaist came from. 
 It is not wise in Italy to buy anything in 
 the presence of a guide nor upon the rec- 
 
Shopping Abroad 171 
 
 ommendation of the hotel concierge. 
 There is an old proverb about "honesty 
 among thieves," and these fellows never 
 fail to receive their commissions, on your 
 purchases from the dealer, all of which 
 comes out of your pocket. 
 
 Cutlery 
 
 London and German cities. 
 Diamonds 
 
 Amsterdam and Milan. 
 
 Dress Goods 
 
 London, Paris and Switzerland. Wool- 
 en stuffs can nowhere be bought to such 
 good advantage as in England. Suitings 
 of all sorts, but especially the English 
 and Scotch mixtures and the Irish home- 
 spuns, are of wonderful wearing qualities 
 and good appearance. Their prices are 
 not high. Lighter weight materials, like 
 silk, lawns and prints, are best in France 
 and Switzerland, since both countries 
 manufacture them. There are some print 
 mills also in the disputed Alsace terri- 
 tory, famed for the fresh and dainty col- 
 ors and the pretty designs of their cotton 
 prints. These plants all feed the markets 
 of the near by large cities, where a wide 
 assortment of lovely materials can always 
 be found. 
 
172 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 Embroideries 
 
 Germany, Switzerland, Belgium and 
 France. All hand work is amazingly 
 cheap on the Continent, and the tourist 
 is continually agreeably surprised at the 
 small charge made for embroidery and 
 lace. Much of the work in the countries 
 where these trimmings are to be had is 
 done by the peasants in their leisure time, 
 and since it is looked upon by them 
 largely as a pastime, they are satisfied 
 with small profits. 
 
 In Germany may be found the most 
 exquisite embroideries, done during the 
 winter months by the women of the coun- 
 try districts. After working in the fields 
 all summer it would seem the natural 
 thing for a German woman to do to put- 
 ter about the kitchen in winter and attend 
 to the thousand and one household duties 
 that must needs suffer more or less while 
 she lends a hand in reaping the harvest. 
 So she does, too, I have no doubt, but she 
 also finds time to do a little fancy work. 
 The women folk of whole districts work 
 together all winter to supply this or that 
 Berlin or Dresden or Munich merchant 
 with beautiful needlework. Once I saw in 
 Berlin the most wonderful tablecloth, al- 
 most wholly covered with exquisite em- 
 broidery in white. A price tag of 400 
 
Shopping Abroad 173 
 
 marks was attached. I am ashamed to 
 mention what the same thing would have 
 cost in this country. The German women 
 are also noted for a very effective 
 style of linen drawn work, not flimsy and 
 unserviceable like the Mexican work, al- 
 though less delicate in design. 
 
 Engravings and Reproductions 
 
 Berlin, Dresden and Munich. Ger- 
 many is the home par excellence of modern 
 color printing, though for work of the 
 very first rank, for elaborate editions de 
 luxe, France is a close second. Most of 
 the truly artistic picture post cards sold 
 everywhere on the Continent are printed 
 in Germany. So too are the admirable 
 color reproductions of the celebrated 
 paintings in the picture galleries. The 
 dexterous Germans have invented a color 
 reproduction which they print on canvas, 
 and which comes very near to being a 
 facsimile of the original. 
 
 Filigree Work in Gold and Silver 
 
 Genoa, Florence and other North Ital- 
 ian cities. In this work, as in the making 
 of cameos, the Italian jewelers have had 
 many wonderful models to copy, only 
 these models are even older, for many of 
 them are of Etruscan origin. The deli- 
 cate scrolls, with their little accents of 
 
174 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 polished knobs, are essentially Etruscan 
 in spirit, and may even be of Greek in- 
 spiration. This particular work is very 
 lovely in gold, but much of it is also ef- 
 fectively reproduced in oxidized silver in 
 combination with stones of good contrast- 
 ing colors, like lapis lazuli, agate tur- 
 quoise, and coral. 
 
 Furs 
 
 Berlin, Paris, and Russian and Scandi- 
 navian cities. The countries of Northern 
 Europe, being nearer the base of sup- 
 plies, offer the best buying centers for 
 furs. Fur garments, however, are not so 
 modishly made, naturally, there as in 
 Paris, and the tourist who contemplates 
 investing in furs may find it an ad- 
 vantage to buy the pelts in Russia, for 
 instance, and take them to Paris to have 
 made up. Parisian ingenuity can do 
 wonders with fur, and it is there com- 
 bined with unfailing skill with every 
 known other material from lace, beading, 
 and chiffon, to velvet and broadcloth. 
 
 Gloves 
 
 London, Paris, Brussels and the large 
 Italian cities. The styles of gloves vary 
 very much in different countries. For 
 gloves intended for street wear no one can 
 do better than to buy in London. The 
 
Shopping Abroad 175 
 
 turned seams are smart and the general 
 cut in keeping with the severity of an out- 
 door costume. Dress gloves can be 
 bought better in Paris and in Brussels 
 than in London. Long gloves, more par- 
 ticularly the soft suedes, are cheap ac- 
 cording to American standards in both 
 places. The glace gloves are of pliable 
 kid and pleasant to wear. The French 
 make an uncommonly durable silk glove 
 which is a good investment, and all French 
 people, both men and women, wear the 
 sturdy lisle gloves of French manufac- 
 ture. The tourist who is not above sav- 
 ing the wear of his or her kid stock may 
 safely take to the lisle variety while trav- 
 eling. The gloves of Italy have the repu- 
 tation of wearing badly, but as they are 
 sold for nearly nothing this defect can 
 be overlooked. Short gloves can be had in 
 Florence and Rome for as little as twenty 
 cents the pair. 
 
 Hats 
 
 Women's, Paris. Men's, London. The 
 same advice holds good in respect to the 
 headgear of men and women as to their 
 other wearing apparel. American men's 
 hats are not unknown abroad, and if a 
 man has a preference for a special make, 
 he can most likely find it, either in Ger- 
 many or in Italy. England certainly 
 
176 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 sets the fashion in tourist hats, men's. 
 France makes no such distinction in 
 women's hats, for no French woman would 
 wear the plain unadorned walking tur- 
 ban liked by both English and American 
 women more accustomed to the require- 
 ments of traveling. French hats can be 
 depended upon to be "dressy," but they 
 are also most adroitly and artistically de- 
 signed. Liberty's, in both their London 
 and Paris shops, sell very good, very 
 cheap, woven straw and grass outing hats 
 which when trimmed with a scarf of inter- 
 esting colors, make admirable additions to 
 a traveling wardrobe. In some of the 
 Italian cities pretty braided straws are 
 sold, and a hat of closer weave not unlike 
 the Panamas, but much more reasonable 
 in price. 
 
 Inlaid Work 
 
 The Turkish bazaars are the most in- 
 teresting shopping districts throughout 
 the Balkan States. Useful and ornamen- 
 tal brass and copper articles, inlaid with 
 gold or silver, sell at very reasonable 
 prices ; and the student of Oriental rugs 
 may pick up a creditable Anatolian now 
 and then for comparatively nothing — but 
 it takes a student to tell the difference be- 
 tween a good piece and poor one. 
 
 And speaking of rugs, I know a fellow 
 
Shopping Abroad 177 
 
 who has one for sale for a dollar and a 
 half. He is a swarthy Arab who stands 
 on the pier at Algiers where the steam 
 tender lands the shiploads of passengers 
 going ashore for the day. It looks from 
 a distance, this rug, as if it might be 
 worth fifteen or twenty dollars, maybe. 
 But the reason I think the Arab still has 
 it is because he offers it to all comers for 
 eighteen pounds — in round numbers, $90. 
 He will be on the pier still when you come 
 to take the tender to board the ship in the 
 evening, but he will have cut his price in 
 half. While the tender loosens her moor- 
 ings he will cut his price in half again, 
 and by the time the boat is ready to leave 
 the dock he will make a terrible sacrifice 
 and say that he will part with the rug for 
 exactly six shillings. 
 
 Ivories 
 
 Brussels. Belgium has a permanent 
 ivory producing field to draw from in her 
 Congo possessions: consequently her 
 shops show a large assortment of ivory 
 objects. They are sometimes as skilfully 
 carved as if they were Japanese. Many 
 small ivory souvenirs at attractive prices 
 are everywhere seen, some of them simply 
 ornaments, some of them having a pos- 
 sible use, like the tiny sets of ivory domi- 
 noes. 
 
178 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 Jewelry 
 
 Paris, Milan, Geneva, Lucerne and 
 southern German cities. In no other 
 sort of decoration has the modern art 
 movement taken such a firm hold as in 
 the making of jewelry. No other designs 
 are employed nowadays by Continental 
 jewelers, except reproductions of accepted 
 old settings. The art nouveau seems pe- 
 culiarly suited to ornaments, and, while 
 the German, Swiss and French manners 
 of developing it vary greatly, all these 
 countries have come to ultilize it. The 
 good jewelry of Paris is expensive but 
 very choice. The best is made by genu- 
 ine artists. The cheap Parisian jewelry 
 is often very pretty and the enamels wear 
 well enough to warrant their purchase. 
 The Swiss and German modern designs 
 are sometimes a bit extreme and occasion- 
 ally meaningless, but on the whole both 
 countries make interesting pins, chains, 
 belt buckles and hair ornaments. The 
 enamels are especially good. Italian 
 jewelry is more affected by traditions than 
 is that of the northern countries. Milan 
 has a glittering array of jewelry shops 
 in its fine arcade. 
 
 Lace 
 
 Brussels, Paris, Venice, Malta, Seville 
 
Shopping Abroad 179 
 
 and Ireland. All of these countries have 
 laces as distinctive as their languages, 
 and the tourist who knows the makes will 
 revel in the beautiful modern work. In 
 some places the lace industry has con- 
 tinued without interruption during the 
 five or six centuries since lace was first in- 
 troduced into Europe. In others it has 
 been allowed to lapse and has then been 
 revived, sometimes through the philan- 
 thropic enterprise of a society interested 
 in the arts of the land. In Ireland, in 
 France and in Italy such societies, all 
 under very aristocratic patronage, have 
 been instrumental in recreating a lace in- 
 dustry among the peasants, thus preserv- 
 ing a distinctly national employment. 
 Lace in Europe is not relatively ex- 
 pensive, and occasionally very lovely and 
 rare pieces can be picked up in second 
 hand shops by any one who is a good 
 judge of laces. 
 
 The most fashionable and expensive 
 shops in Brussels, carrying goods of a 
 general character, are to be found in the 
 Rue de la Madeline and the Rue Royal, 
 while other good ones hold forth in 
 the Boulevard Anspach, Rue Neuve and 
 Rue des Fripiers. 
 Leather Goods 
 
 London. English people travel more 
 than any other Europeans, which may 
 
180 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 perhaps account for the fact that all the 
 appurtenances of traveling are better 
 made there than on the Continent. 
 Trunks, hampers, traveling bags, the 
 characteristic tea basket, hand-bags, 
 rugs, hold-alls, even the smallest necessi- 
 ties for the trunk or the bag — these are 
 things to be purchased in London. Un- 
 der no circumstances waste your money in 
 the purchase of a "second-hand" trunk or 
 hand-bag. Establishments selling these 
 attractive looking articles are scattered 
 over London. In almost every instance 
 they are made of inferior leather and put 
 together in a hap-hazard, perfunctory 
 manner which permits them to stand up 
 well only under the sign on the side- 
 walk. 
 
 The foreign retailer does not seem to 
 have the same sense of honor that char- 
 acterizes his brother in America. In 
 London it is well to buy carefully if you 
 are dealing at a small shop. In purchas- 
 ing anything where the quality can be 
 concealed such as in leather goods, go to 
 one of the large stores or to a shop that 
 has been recommended. The recent ex- 
 perience of a friend of mine will illustrate 
 this point. He was walking along the 
 Strand one afternoon and chancing to 
 see some attractive looking suit cases in a 
 leather goods store, went in to inquire the 
 
Shopping Abroad 181 
 
 prices. Some were more expensive than 
 he wanted to pay and the salesman there- 
 upon showed him a number at a much 
 lower price, explaining that they were 
 second-hand goods, although no sign of 
 wear appeared on them, which accounted 
 for so reasonable a price. They were 
 cases he said that had been turned in 
 by army officers who had returned from 
 colonial service and were glad to get what 
 they could for luggage that they would 
 have no occasion to use again. My 
 friend after bargaining, as is the usual 
 custom, purchased for twenty-five shillings 
 a splendid looking, seemingly new, dark 
 pig skin case, hand sewn and guaranteed 
 solid leather. The following week end it 
 was used on a trip to the country with 
 the result that the seams opened up, the 
 thick "solid leather" frayed out and upon 
 examination the suit case was found to 
 be constructed of brown paper with a 
 very thin veneer of leather. The dealer 
 was insulting when it was brought back 
 and he utterly refused to do more than 
 exchange it for a much more expensive 
 case. This particular concern happened 
 to have stores at 55 Strand and 163 A 
 Strand, but there are probably many 
 more of the same type among the many 
 shops, the most of which are unquestion- 
 able honest. 
 
182 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 Linens 
 
 Germany and Ireland. Although these 
 two countries offer a larger assortment of 
 linens, this ancient and durable material 
 may be had almost anywhere in Europe at 
 small cost. The humblest households use 
 linen sheets, and linen laces are abundant 
 everywhere. Hand looms are still in use 
 in obscure places, and the linens thus 
 made are as lasting an investment as are 
 diamonds. 
 
 Mosaics 
 
 Venice, Florence and Rome. All 
 Italians excel in the making of mosaics. 
 It is only a modern continuation of a very 
 old Roman craft, but to-day it is applied 
 to small objects for personal adornment 
 as well as to larger pieces of furniture for 
 household use. Many lovely brooches, 
 belt buckles and hair ornaments may be 
 bought everywhere in Italy, done in 
 beautiful mosaic. Unfortunately they 
 are seldom mounted in either gold or sil- 
 ver, and in wearing the settings soon be- 
 come tarnished. However, since the mo- 
 saics themselves are so good, and often 
 artistically done, they repay remounting, 
 
 Motor Apparel 
 
 London. Motoring being the newest 
 
Shopping Abroad 183 
 
 outdoor sport — excepting the exciting 
 and prohibitive aviation — England natur- 
 ally provides for it as she does for all out- 
 door pursuits. 
 
 Pearls 
 
 Rome and Florence. 
 
 Pipes 
 
 Meerschaum, Vienna and Buda Pesth. 
 Briar, London. It is well to look for any 
 article in the land where it is used most, 
 and the favorite pipe of the native is apt 
 to be the best. So, of course, the meer- 
 schaum will be found as an inevitable ac- 
 companiment in beer drinking lands. 
 The Englishman's short briar pipe is an- 
 other national institution. Of late years, 
 through a spirit of imitation, young 
 Frenchmen have taken to smoking pipes, 
 and Paris therefore presents no mean as- 
 sortment of them. 
 
 Roman Antiquities in Jewelry, etc, 
 
 Rome and Naples. Southern Italy, 
 since its recently made explorations, has 
 been quick to see the commercial value of 
 antique reproductions. They are made 
 with discrimination and skill, and are 
 therefore not a bad souvenir investment. 
 
 Silks 
 
 London, Paris, Lyons and Milan. All 
 
184 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 of these cities sell dependable silks and 
 this is a material which can be had much 
 more reasonably in Europe than in 
 America. Certain places, like Lyons, are 
 noted for nothing else. The silk industry 
 of Lyons is now some 500 years old and 
 yet that city still holds first place in the 
 quality and range of its silk products. 
 
 Silverware and Sheffield Plate 
 London. 
 
 Shoes 
 
 For Americans, only the large cities. 
 American shoes have gained a certain 
 reputation abroad, and many Europeans 
 wear them in preference to any others. 
 For this reason agencies for well-known 
 American makes can be found in most of 
 the large cities. English shoes come 
 nearer in form to those worn by Ameri- 
 cans, but they are not so well finished. 
 French shoes are quite impossible for an 
 American foot. 
 
 Tobacco for the Pipe 
 
 London. An inveterate pipe smoker 
 will be wise to provide himself while he is 
 in London with a kind of tobacco he can 
 smoke. It is more satisfactory to pay 
 the duties levied on tobacco by the Conti- 
 nental countries, and to be sure of real to- 
 
Shopping Abroad 185 
 
 bacco, than to trust to the uncertain 
 quality of that offered elsewhere. 
 
 Toilet Articles 
 
 Paris and throughout Germany. 
 These are things which properly come 
 under the elastic title of neuveaute de 
 Paris, and which Paris makes to perfec- 
 tion, putting into their conception and 
 finish the fullness of French ingenuity and 
 French taste. Germany follows the 
 French designs. 
 
 Tortoise Shell 
 
 Naples and Rome. This is another 
 sea product most adroitly treated in 
 southern Italy. It is made up into every 
 conceivable small article for human use, 
 including lamp and candle shades. 
 
 Turquoises 
 
 Paris, Vienna, Rome and Florence. 
 Practically all the turquoise sold in Eu- 
 rope, either mounted or unmounted, comes 
 from Persia. Certain cities are the fa- 
 vorite clearing places of the small dealers 
 who traffic in these pretty stones, and they 
 are the places whose jewelers have a 
 special fondness for the warm and sympa- 
 thetic Eastern blue, and who know how 
 most becomingly to cut and mount the 
 stones, 
 
186 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 Umbrellas 
 
 Cologne and other German cities, Milan 
 and Switzerland. Neither England nor 
 France is an especially good place to buy 
 umbrellas, for neither the French nor the 
 English carry them when they can avoid 
 it, and for very different reasons. The 
 English dress for bad weather and, ex- 
 cept in a drenching downpour, scorn the 
 shelter of an umbrella. The French, de- 
 spite their uncertain climate, likewise dis- 
 pense with this homely article precisely 
 because they consider it unlovely. Para- 
 sols, now, are quite another matter. 
 They can be treated as part of an elabo- 
 rate toilet. They are of wonderful va- 
 riety and originality in France. 
 
 Underwear 
 
 Silk, Milan and Paris. Woolen, Edin- 
 burgh and Glasgow. Silk is a material 
 which permits of elaboration, hence its 
 more frequent use among the Latins than 
 wool, for underclothing. The underwear 
 of France, Belgium and Italy is most often 
 of silk, both of good quality and good 
 style. The woolens of England are un- 
 questionably better than those of the Con- 
 tinent, though it must be confessed they 
 are more practical than beautiful in cut. 
 
Shopping Abroad 187 
 
 Walking Sticks 
 
 London. England is the home of the 
 cane. It is as necessary to an English- 
 man's comfort as his pipe. Therefore, 
 although walking sticks are everywhere 
 sold, they are nowhere so "smart" as in 
 London. 
 
 Watches 
 
 Lucerne and Geneva. Swiss watches 
 need no introduction to travelers: their 
 merited renown is of too long standing. 
 They are sold by all jewelers of all lands, 
 but of course the logical place to buy 
 them is where they are made. 
 
 Waterproofs 
 
 London. This provision for rain the 
 English do allow. They make water- 
 proofs almost as well as they do cloth 
 suits, and their rubber-growing colonies 
 provide them with an inexhaustable sup- 
 ply of genuine rubber of a wearing 
 quality almost unknown in these automo- 
 bile days. 
 
 Wood-carving 
 
 Switzerland, the Black Forest, Norway 
 and Sweden, the Harz Mountains, Sor- 
 rento. This is a handicraft which, like 
 the feminine lace-making, has not been 
 
188 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 permitted to lapse in Europe. Carving 
 wood is how the Swiss peasants spend 
 their spare time and the results of their 
 labors — bookracks and cuckoo clocks and 
 salad tools and nut crackers and furni- 
 ture ad infinitum — compose the stock in 
 trade of a number of shops in every town 
 and city. 
 
 Miscellaneous 
 
 Paris has in addition to her many regu- 
 lar stores, a sort of magnified Old Curi- 
 osity Shop, where all manner of curious 
 second-hand things may be bought, such 
 as old draperies, jewelry, brass, clothing, 
 fans, rugs, trinkets — in fact, almost any- 
 thing that you may desire to purchase. 
 This permanent sale is held in the so- 
 called Temple in one of the poorest sec- 
 tions of the city. It is quite freely pat- 
 ronized by art students and is well worth 
 visiting, as much for its curious interest 
 as for the chance of picking up desirable 
 bargains. 
 
VI 
 
 AUTOMOBILE TOURING ABROAD 
 
 EUROPE is a veritable paradise for 
 automobile owners, and to cover Eu- 
 rope or part of it en auto is certainly the 
 most delightful, although the most expen- 
 sive, method of seeing the countries and 
 their peoples. Good roads cross and re- 
 cross the Continent like the strands that 
 bound Gulliver, and good hotels all but 
 rub gables with each other. 
 
 Everything considered, France is per- 
 haps the most remunerative country 
 through which to motor, although Ger- 
 many, Austria, Northern Italy, Switzer- 
 land and Belgium are not far behind ; and 
 I cannot imagine a more pleasant way to 
 see little Holland than to sweep along its 
 brick paved roads in a comfortable car. 
 For American drivers, used to long 
 stretches of straight roadway, England is 
 at first very difficult and trying to negoti- 
 ate in a motor. The roads, although well 
 made, are narrow and very crooked, and 
 the hedges at the sides obstruct the view 
 ahead so that more than a nominal speed 
 cannot be attained without risk. The cus- 
 tom of driving to the left and passing to 
 189 
 
190 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 the right, the reverse of our own, is also 
 tantalizing at first. 
 
 The American Express Company is 
 probably the best known firm packing and 
 shipping automobiles from this country to 
 Europe. The rates of transportation 
 range from $75 to $200, according to the 
 size of the car. The case in which the car 
 is packed may be stored at the port of 
 embarkation abroad and used again on the 
 return voyage. 
 
 No duty is imposed upon an automobile 
 entering England, Scotland or Ireland, but 
 lights and horn are carefully examined and 
 must be in good working order. Licenses 
 will cost from $10 to $25, according to the 
 weight of the car. A registration fee is 
 also required, costing approximately $5. 
 The speed limit in England is fifteen miles 
 an hour over country roads and eight miles 
 in the cities. Petrol, the general commer- 
 cial name for gasoline abroad, costs be- 
 tween 24 and 36 cents a gallon. 
 
 Crossing the Channel from England to 
 France, the car may be shipped uncrated 
 on any of the steamers, if accompanied by 
 the owner or his representative. Applica- 
 tion for deck space, giving the length, 
 width and height of the car over all, should 
 be made as early as possible. The steam- 
 ers being comparatively small, their deck 
 space is limited. 
 
^Automobile Touring Abroad 191 
 
 The rate of transportation of an un- 
 crated car shipped from Folkestone to 
 Boulogne at the owner's risk is $25 ; at the 
 risk of the company, about $38. The rate 
 from Newhaven to Dieppe at the owner's 
 risk is $22.50 ; and at the company's risk, 
 $30.25, with the additional fee of $1 per 
 ton weight. From Southampton, Cher- 
 bourg or Havre the rate, when the weight 
 of the car does not exceed one ton, is about 
 $12. It is about $18 if the car weighs be- 
 tween a ton and a ton and a half; and 
 about $24 if it weighs between a ton and 
 a half and two tons. 
 
 The duty on motor cars in France is 
 rather high, but there is the consolation 
 that the amount paid will be returned to 
 the motorist at the frontier when leaving 
 the country, if within six months. The 
 rate of duty is 50 francs ($10) for ap- 
 proximately every 200 pounds over 275. 
 If the car weighs less than 275 pounds, 
 and no car does, the duty will be $24. A 
 leaden seal is attached to a conspicuous 
 part of the car to show that duty upon it 
 has been paid; it will be removed at the 
 frontier when the motorist has surrendered 
 his certificate and the amount of duty has 
 been refunded. 
 
 French regulations require that every 
 automobile in use in the country must be 
 registered. The application for such 
 
192 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 registration must bear a sixty centime 
 stamp and include such information as the 
 name and address of the owner of the car, 
 the number of the motor and the name of 
 the maker. After the registration has 
 been made and properly noted by the au- 
 thorities, a certain number will be allotted, 
 which must be displayed both at the front 
 and rear of the car. 
 
 This is about all that happens to the 
 car. Next comes the driver ; and the 
 French authorities are as strict about the 
 competence of the person who runs the car 
 as they are about the car itself. The 
 driver of a car in France must undergo an 
 examination to prove his ability as a 
 chauffeur — a wise regulation and one that 
 might well be adopted in America. He 
 must also supply the department with 
 three unmounted photographs of himself, 
 a passport or some other paper of equal 
 authenticity as to the date of his birth, 
 and his home address. If the applicant 
 weathers all these specifications he will be 
 supplied with a little red card upon which 
 is stated that he may drive a motor car on 
 French soil. 
 
 Petrol costs about thirteen cents, or 
 from sixty to seventy centimes, a liter in 
 Paris. In the rural districts it costs only 
 about half as much. When entering the 
 capital every gasoline tank is examined 
 
Automobile Touring Abroad 193 
 
 so that the tourist will not be running his 
 motor at the rate of seven cents per liter 
 of gasoline any longer than the law al- 
 lows. Country hotels rarely charge gar- 
 age dues ; the simple fact that the motor- 
 ist has chosen that hotel in preference to 
 another is considered sufficient. Rural 
 France has practically no speed limit, but 
 drivers are more than cautioned to be 
 careful and the car must be at all times 
 under perfect control. Arrest will be 
 sure to follow the taking of an undue 
 risk on the road. Ten miles an hour is 
 supposed to be the limit in the cities, and 
 both a white and a green light must be 
 shown on the front of the car after dark. 
 Members of the American Automobile 
 Association will do well to apply for mem- 
 bership in the Touring Club of France. 
 This organization furnishes its members 
 with the best road maps, authorizes them 
 to demand a reduction of ten per cent, at 
 certain hotels on the road, issues free per- 
 mits for other countries and to enter or 
 leave any other country as often as they 
 wish without being compelled to pay the 
 otherwise necessary duties. Application 
 for membership may be made in person or 
 by letter at 65 Avenue de la Grande 
 Armee, Paris, and will be granted imme- 
 diately. A description of the applicant's 
 car in detail, and the owner's name and 
 
194 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 address and number in the A. A. A. must 
 be given. 
 
 On entering Belgium a twelve per cent, 
 ad valorem duty upon the car is imposed, 
 which payment is refunded at the frontier 
 when leaving the country. In other re- 
 spects the regulations are similar to those 
 of France. 
 
 Switzerland is unpopular with motor- 
 ists for the reason that the rules are so 
 exacting that only a veritable saint could 
 comply with them. When an accident 
 does happen, as it will sometimes, the 
 motorist is invariably the party to be 
 held responsible, no matter on whose 
 side the blame lies. The duty of $4 per 
 100 kilograms of weight on the car is re- 
 funded at the frontier when leaving the 
 country, as in France and Belgium. At 
 night the car must carry a white and a 
 green light in front and a red light be- 
 hind. The foot and the emergency brakes 
 must each be able to stop the car within 
 thirty-three feet (two meters) when mov- 
 ing at the maximum legal speed, which is 
 about nineteen miles an hour in the coun- 
 try, six and a quarter miles in the cities, 
 towns, or on mountain roads, and even 
 slower than this when conditions require. 
 The car must be stopped when meeting a 
 Government stage on the road, or a horse 
 that appears frightened. A permit to 
 
Automobile Touring Abroad 195 
 
 drive is always necessary unless the driver 
 can produce a permit issued by his own 
 Government and when that Government 
 and Switzerland act upon a reciprocity 
 basis with regard to these permits. 
 
 The same rule as stated just above ap- 
 plies to foreign drivers in Italy, and five 
 days after arrival is the time limit for 
 obtaining a permit, either upon this reci- 
 procity basis or by examination. For a 
 car weighing 1,200 pounds (500 kilo- 
 grams) or under the duty is $40, and will 
 be refunded upon leaving the country 
 within six months. Petrol in Italy costs 
 about as much as it does in Paris. 
 
 Austria discriminates a little and 
 charges 130 kronen duty on the car and 
 10 kronen per 220 pounds (100 kilo- 
 grams) on the weight of the motor — all 
 of which is refunded when the car leaves 
 Austrian territory. 
 
 Duty is not often demanded in Ger- 
 many when the person accompanying the 
 car can show a passport and prove by 
 convincing argument that the car has 
 been in his possession a certain length of 
 time. Such is also the case in Holland, 
 but a permit to drive must be obtained 
 from the Secretary of Public Works and 
 countersigned by the customs authorities. 
 Petrol in Germany costs about ten cents 
 (40 pfennigs) a gallon. 
 
196 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 Denmark imposes no duty if the owner 
 of the car signs a written declaration that 
 he is touring and will remain in the coun- 
 try only for a limited period. 
 
 It is a very humorous experience even 
 to travel by rail in Russia — after it is all 
 over — but it is about twice as difficult and 
 exasperating to try to take a motor car 
 through the country as it is to attempt 
 to travel through without a passport. 
 "And that reminds me:" I once heard 
 of a man who failed to procure this most 
 necessary document before invading Rus- 
 sian territory, and for some reason or 
 other the arjny of officials at the frontier 
 neglected to question him. His train had 
 rolled along well into the interior before 
 a zealous somebody demanded his pass- 
 port. Not being able to produce one, the 
 official said he would have to leave the 
 country. There was no other alternative. 
 The traveler was bundled off at the next 
 station, and, under the supervision of the 
 station master, was bundled aboard the 
 next train going west. Inside of an hour 
 an official demanded his permit to leave 
 the country. The traveler confessed he 
 was just out of permits. Without the 
 necessary permit he could not cross the 
 frontier, so, the official said, he would 
 have to get off. With no passport to 
 stay and no permit to leave, how he 
 
Automobile Touring Abroad 197 
 
 finally arranged matters remains a mys- 
 tery. 
 
 But to come back to automobiling, the 
 would-be motorist through Russia must 
 first make application for a permit to the 
 Secretary of Finance, affixing thereto 
 stamps worth at least eighty kopeks 
 (forty cents) and stating therein at what 
 point he will enter the country, how long 
 he expects to remain, and from what 
 point he will leave. By the time the per- 
 mit is forthcoming after the application 
 has been made, the project may have es- 
 caped the motorist's memory altogether. 
 If he is persistent about it and finally 
 succeeds in obtaining the permit, he will 
 have to pay duty on his car. The amount 
 is supposed to be refunded when he leaves 
 Russia, but in nine cases out of ten he 
 will have to wait until it suits the con- 
 venience of the customs authorities to re- 
 fund it. 
 
 American-built automobiles, if they 
 have been registered by their owners before 
 going abroad, will be admitted again into 
 the United States free of duty, provided 
 they have not been improved upon abroad 
 to a further extent than repairs which 
 were absolutely necessary, and even these 
 must not have cost in the aggregate more 
 than ten per cent, of the original cost of 
 the car. Cars of foreign manufacture 
 
198 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 taken abroad for touring purposes, duty 
 having already been paid upon them, may 
 be brought into the United States by the 
 owner, or within thirty days after his 
 arrival, under the same stipulations as 
 regard repairs. 
 
VII 
 
 HOTELS AND HOTEL LIST 
 
 APARTMENTS and accommodations 
 in general, except meals, being 
 taken into consideration, hotel expenses 
 abroad are no lower than they are in 
 America. The "first class" hotels abroad 
 charge as much for a room as they do on 
 this side of the water, and in many cases 
 these rooms are vastly inferior. 
 
 Meals taken in the hotels are more ex- 
 pensive than the same meals taken in the 
 restaurants about town. The cheapest 
 method is to arrange only for room and 
 breakfast, taking lunch and dinner when 
 you will and wherever is the most con- 
 venient. 
 
 Hotel proprietors in Europe have a 
 most profound regard for the personal 
 letter written in advance and stating the 
 number of rooms, on which sleeping floor 
 they are desired and the price the writer 
 is willing to pay for them. The nearer 
 the top of any hotel the cheaper are the 
 rooms, but the height makes little differ- 
 ence these days when the elevator is so 
 generally installed. Writing in advance 
 is the method of the European himself, 
 199 
 
200 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 and "when in Rome," you know — . 
 Whenever practicable, therefore, write on 
 in advance to the hotel selected, specify- 
 ing the number of rooms desired and the 
 price. You will be invariably accommo- 
 dated, and in a better manner than if you 
 waited until you arrived to dicker with 
 the proprietor in person. 
 
 Keep accurate account of your hotel 
 expenditures and never fail to add up the 
 items on the bill yourself. A franc or 
 two is often added with a smile by the 
 head waiter, and is as smilingly subtracted 
 the moment his attention is called to the 
 error in addition. For this reason it is 
 imperative that the traveler familiarize 
 himself with the monetary system of the 
 country. 
 
 HOTEL LIST 
 
 AUSTRIA 
 
 BOTZEN: Victoria, Kaiserkrone, etc. 
 
 BUDAPESTH: Hungaria, Royal, Queen of 
 England, Erzherzog, Stephan, Orient, 
 Budapesth, etc. 
 
 GRATZ: Elephant, Florian, Golden Lion, 
 etc. 
 
 INNSBRUCK: Tirol, Europe, Goldene 
 Sonne, Victoria, Kayser's Pension Ho- 
 tel, Hapsburg, Kreid, etc. 
 
 ISCHL: Kaiserin Elizabeth, Bauer, Victo- 
 ria, Kaiserkrone, Stern, etc. 
 
 LANDECK: Post, Goldener Adler. 
 
Hotels and Hotel List 201 
 
 LINZ: Erzherzog Karl, Goldener Adler, etc. 
 
 MELK: Lamm, Ochs, Kottl. 
 
 PRAGUE: de Saxe, Victoria, Schwarzes 
 
 Ross, Royal, Blauer Stern, Erzherzog 
 
 Stephan, Goldener Engel. 
 PRESSBURG: Griiner Baum, National, etc. 
 SALZBURG: Europe, Austria, Nelbock, etc. 
 TRIESTE: de la Ville, Delorme, Europe. 
 TRENT: Trento, Carloni, Agnello d'Oro. 
 VIENNA: Imperial, Archduke Charles, 
 
 Grand, Metropole, Bristol, Austria, etc. 
 
 Klomser, London, Ronacher, etc. 
 
 BELGIUM AND HOLLAND 
 AMSTERDAM: Amstel, Bible, Victoria, 
 
 Brack's Doelen, Americain, Palais 
 
 Royal, Suisse, Polen, etc. 
 ANTWERP: Grand, St. Antoine, de l'Eu- 
 
 rope, Grand Hotel Weber, Commerce, 
 
 Queen's, d'Angleterre. 
 BRUGES: de Flandre, du Commerce, Wind- 
 sor, Sablon, etc. 
 BRUSSELS: Grand, Bellevue, Metropole, 
 
 Astoria et Mengelle, Wiltcher's, de l'Eu- 
 
 rope, Central, Bordeaux, etc. 
 CHAUDEFONTAINE: des Bains, d'Angle- 
 
 terre. 
 GHENT: de la Poste, Royal, de VEtoile, 
 
 d'Allemagne. 
 HAARLEM: Funckler, Lion d'Or, Leeu- 
 
 werik. 
 THE HAGUE: des Indes, Vieux Doelen, 
 
 Paulez's, Bellevue, Central, etc. 
 LEYDEN: Lion d'Or, Levedag, Central. 
 LIEGE: de Suede, d'Angleterre, de I'Uni- 
 
 vers, du Chemin de Fer. 
 
202 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 MALINES: La Station, Beffer, Buda, de la 
 
 Coupe, Cheval d'Or. 
 OSTEND: Continental, de l'Ocean, de la 
 
 Plage, Imperial, du Phare, Allemagne, 
 
 etc. 
 ROTTERDAM: Maas, Leygraaf, France, 
 
 St. Lucas, Victoria, Weimar. 
 SPA: de Flandre, Orange, des Bains, Brit- 
 
 tannique, etc. 
 UTRECHT: Pays-Bas, de l'Europe, Belle- 
 
 vue, de la Station. 
 VERVIERS: Londres, Chemin de Fer, d' Al- 
 lemagne. 
 
 BRITISH ISLES 
 
 ALUM BAY: Royal Needles. 
 AMBLESIDE: Salutation, Queen's, White 
 
 Lion, Waterhead. 
 ARDRISHAIG: Royal, Lome. 
 AYR: Station, King's Arms, Dalblair, Ayr 
 
 Arms. 
 BANAVIE: Banavie. 
 BANGOR: George, British, Castle, Railway, 
 
 William's Temperance. 
 BATH: Grand Pump Room, York House, 
 
 Royal, etc., Christopher. 
 BEDFORD: Swan, Red Lion, George. 
 BELFAST: Grand Central, Imperial, Ave- 
 nue, Queen's, Station, Wilkinson's. 
 BETTWS-Y-COED: Royal Oak, Waterloo, 
 
 Gwydyr, Glen Aber, Craig-y-don. 
 BIRMINGHAM: Queen's, Great Western, 
 
 Plough and Harrow, Midland, Cobden, 
 
 Swan, Acorn. 
 
Hotels and Hotel List 203 
 
 BLAIR ATHOLE: Athole Arms, Glen Tilt. 
 
 BONCHURCH: Bonchurch. 
 
 BOSTON: Peacock, Red Lion. 
 
 BOWNESS: Old England, Royal, Crown, 
 Belsfield. 
 
 BRADFORD: Victoria, Alexandra, Talbot, 
 etc. 
 
 BRIDGE OF ALLAN: Royal, Queen, Hy- 
 dropathic. 
 
 BRIGHTON: Grand, Bedford, Norfolk, Al- 
 bion, New Steyne, Queen's, Gloucester, 
 New Ship, King's Arms, Hollywood, 
 Queen's Head, Crown, White Lion, etc. 
 
 BRISTOL: Royal (near cathedral), Grand, 
 Royal Talbot, etc. At CLIFTON: 
 Clifton Down, St. Vincent's Rocks, etc. 
 
 BROADSTAIRS: Ballard's, Albion, etc. 
 
 BUXTON: Empire, Palace, St. Ann's, Cres- 
 cent, Royal, Burlington, Eagle, Shakes- 
 peare, etc. 
 
 CALLANDER: Dreadnought, Ancaster 
 Arms, Hydropathic. 
 
 CAMBRIDGE: University Arms, Bull, Red 
 Lion, Hoop, Livingstone (temperance). 
 
 CANTERBURY: County, Fountain, Rose. 
 
 CAPEL CURIG: Royal, Bryntyrch. 
 
 CARLISLE: County Station, Central, Bush, 
 Crown and Mitre, Viaduct, Graham's. 
 
 CARNARVON: Royal, Royal Sportsman, 
 Castle, Prince of Wales. 
 
 CHATSWORTH: Chatsworth (at Edensor). 
 
 CHELTENHAM: Plough, Queen's Royal, 
 Fleece, Bellevue, Lamb. 
 
 CHEPSTOW: Beaufort Arms, George. 
 
204 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 CHESTER: Queen (at station), Grosvenor, 
 Westminster, Blossoms. 
 
 CHICHESTER: Dolphin, Eagle. 
 
 CONWAY: Oakwood Park, Castle, Erskine 
 Arms. 
 
 CORK: Imperial, Royal Victoria, Moore's. 
 
 COVENTRY: Queen, King's Head, Craven 
 Arms. 
 
 DONCASTER: Angel, Reindeer, 
 
 DOVER: Lord Warden, Grand, Dover Cas- 
 tle, King's Head, Shakespeare, Burling- 
 ton, etc. 
 
 DUBLIN: Shelbourne, Gresham, Metropole, 
 Cecil, Barry's, Gough's, etc. 
 
 DUMFRIES: King's Arms, Commercial, 
 Station. 
 
 DUNBLANE: Stirling Arms, Hydropathic. 
 
 DURHAM: County (the best), Rose and 
 Crown, Waterloo. 
 
 EDINBURGH: Royal, Balmoral, Carlton, 
 North British, Caledonian, etc., Douglas, 
 Cochburn, Imperial, etc. 
 
 ELY: Lamb, Bell, Angel. 
 
 EXETER: Rougemont (near Queen St. sta- 
 tion), Clarence, Queen's, New London, 
 Half Moon. 
 
 FURNESS ABBEY: Furness Abbey Hotel. 
 
 GIANT'S CAUSEWAY: Causeway, Kane's 
 Royal. 
 
 GLASGOW: St. Enoch's, Central, North 
 British, Windsor, Grand, Royal, etc., 
 Steel's, Cochburn, etc. 
 
 GLASTONBURY: George, Crown, Red 
 Lion. 
 
Hotels and Hotel List 205 
 
 GLOUCESTER: Bell, Wellington, New Inn, 
 Fowler's {temperance'). 
 
 GREENOCK: Tontine, White Hart, Royal, 
 etc. 
 
 HARROGATE: Queen, Granby, Prince of 
 Wales, Majestic, Royal, Empress, etc. 
 
 HARROW: King's Head, Railway. 
 
 HARWICH: Great Eastern. 
 
 HASTINGS: Queen's, Marine, Grand, Al- 
 bion, Albany, Palace, Royal Oak, Gros- 
 venor, etc. 
 
 HEREFORD: Green Dragon, City Arms, 
 Mitre. 
 
 HOLYWELL: King's Head. 
 
 INVERNESS: Caledonian, Station, Royal, 
 Imperial, Victoria, Waverley, etc. 
 
 INVERSNAID: Inversnaid. 
 
 IONA: St. Columba, Argyll. 
 
 KEIGHLEY: Devonshire Arms. 
 
 KENILWORTH: Abbey, King's Arms. 
 
 KESWICK: Keswick (at station), Queen's, 
 Royal Oak, Lake, Derwentwater. 
 
 KIDDERMINSTER: Lion, Black Horse. 
 
 KILLARNEY: Great Southern, Royal Vic- 
 toria, Railway, Lake, Graham's, 0' Sul- 
 livan's (at Muckross). 
 
 LANARK: Black Bull, Clydesdale. 
 
 LEAMINGTON: Regent, Manor House, 
 Clarendon, Bath, Crown, etc. 
 
 LEEDS: Queen's (at Midland station), Met- 
 ropole, Great Northern Station, Trevel- 
 yan, Griffin. 
 
 LICHFIELD: George, Swan. 
 
 LINCOLN: Great Northern Station, White 
 Hart, Saracen's Head. 
 
206 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 LIVERPOOL: North Western Railway, 
 Adelphi, Lancashire and Yorkshire, 
 Grand, Imperial, Compton, Alexandra, 
 Angel, Shaftesbury. 
 
 LLANBERIS: Victoria, Padarn Villa, Dol- 
 badarn. 
 
 LLANDUDNO: Imperial, Queen's, Marine, 
 St. George's, Prince of Wales, West- 
 minster, etc. 
 
 LOCH KATRINE: Stronachlachar. 
 
 LONDON: Cecil, Savoy, Royal, Metropole, 
 Victoria, Grand, First Avenue, Russell, 
 Charing Cross, Inns of Court, Morley's, 
 Windsor, Westminster Palace, St. Er- 
 mins. 
 
 LONDONDERRY: Jury's, Imperial, City, 
 etc. 
 
 MANCHESTER: Queen's, Grand, Gros- 
 venor, Albion, Victoria. 
 
 MARGATE : York, White Hart, Elephant. 
 
 MATLOCK BATH: New Bath, Royal, Tem- 
 ple, Terrace, Devonshire, Hodgkinson's, 
 etc. 
 
 MAUCHLINE: Loudoun Arms. 
 
 MELROSE: Abbey, George, King's 
 Arms. 
 
 MONMOUTH: Beaufort Arms, King's 
 Head, Bridge, Angel, etc. 
 
 NEWCASTLE-ON-TYNE : Station, Central 
 Exchange, Douglas, County, Turk's 
 Head, York, etc. 
 
 NEWHAVEN: Ship. 
 
 NEWPORT, ISLE OF WIGHT: Bugle, 
 Warburton, Star, Wheatsheaf, etc. 
 
 NORWICH: Maid's Head, Royal, Bell, Cas- 
 tle. 
 
Hotels and Hotel List 207 
 
 NOTTINGHAM: George, Portland, Flying 
 
 Horse, Caledonian (temperance). 
 OBAN: Great Western, Alexandra, Station, 
 
 Caledonian, Craig-Ard, Columba, Royal, 
 
 King's Arms, Argyll, Victoria, etc. 
 OXFORD:. Randolph, Clarendon, Mitre, 
 
 King's Arms, Roebuck, Golden Cross. 
 PAISLEY: George, County, Globe. 
 PENRITH: Crown, George. 
 PETERBOROUGH: Great Northern, 
 
 Grand, Angel, Bull. 
 PLYMOUTH: Duke of Cornwall, Royal, 
 
 Grand, Albion, Chubb's, Lockyer, etc. 
 PORTRUSH: Northern Counties, Antrim 
 
 Arms, Coleman's. 
 PORTSMOUTH: George, Central, Keppel's 
 
 Head, etc.; at SOUTHSEA: Esplanade, 
 
 Royal Pier, Queen, etc. 
 QUEENSTOWN: Queen's, Beach. 
 RAMSGATE : Granville, Albion, Royal, etc. 
 RIPON: Unicorn, Crown, Black Bull. 
 ROCHESTER: Crown, Victoria and Bull, 
 
 King's Head. 
 ROSS: Royal, Swan, King's Head. 
 ROWSLEY: Peacock. 
 
 RUGBY: Royal George, Horseshoes, Eagle. 
 RYDE: Royal Pier, Esplanade, Marine, 
 
 Eagle, Crown, York, etc. 
 ST. ALBANS: Peahen, George. 
 SALISBURY: White Hart, New County, 
 
 Angel, Red Lion, Cathedral, Old 
 
 George. 
 SCARBOROUGH: Grand, Crown, Prince 
 
 of Wales, Pavillion, Queen, Castle, etc. 
 SHEFFIELD: Victoria, Midland, Royal, 
 
 King's Head, Albany, Angel. 
 
208 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 SOUTHAMPTON: South Western Railway, 
 
 Radley's, Dolphin, Royal, Star, Crown, 
 
 Flower's, Railway. 
 STIRLING: Golden Lion, Royal, Station. 
 STRATFORD-ON-AVON : Shakespeare, 
 
 Red Horse, Falcon, Golden Lion. 
 TEWKESBURY: Swan, Bell. 
 TORQUAY: Imperial, Victoria and Albert, 
 
 Torbay, Royal, Queen's, Western, etc. 
 VENTNOR: Marine, Royal, Queen's Ez- 
 
 planade, Crab and Lobster, Commercial, 
 
 Terminus, Rayner's Temperance, etc. 
 WARWICK: Woolpack, Warwick Arms. 
 WELLS: Swan, Mitre, Star. 
 WILTON: Pembroke Arms. 
 WINCHESTER: George, Royal, Black 
 
 Swan, God Begot House. 
 WINDSOR: White Hart, Castle, Bridge 
 
 House. 
 WOLVERHAMPTON: Star and Garter, 
 
 Victoria, Talbot, Coach and Horses. 
 WORCESTER: Star, Bell, Unicorn, Crown, 
 
 Great Western, Central, etc. 
 YORK: Station, Harker's, Black Swan, 
 
 Clarence, City. 
 
 FRANCE 
 
 AIX-LES-BAINS: Aix, Europe, Metropole, 
 Albion, Venat, du Nord, Splendide, 
 Beausite, du Centre, etc. 
 
 AMIENS: Du Rhin, de l'Univers, Ecu de 
 France, Commerce. 
 
 ARLES: Forum, du Nord. 
 
 AVIGNON: Europe, Avignon, Crillon, Lou- 
 vre. 
 
Hotels and Hotel List 209 
 
 BEAUVAIS: de France et d'Angleterre, 
 
 Continental. 
 B0URGES: France, Boule d'Or, Jacques 
 
 Coeur. 
 CAEN: Angleterre, St. Pierre, d'Espagne, 
 
 etc. 
 CALAIS: Grand, Terminus, Central. 
 CHAMBRAY: France, des Princes, La Paix, 
 
 etc. 
 CHARTRES: Grand Monarque, Due de 
 
 Chartres, France. 
 CHERBOURG: de L'Amiraute, des Bains, 
 
 Aigle. 
 DIEPPE: Royal, Metropole, Grand, de 
 
 Paris, du Commerce, etc. 
 DIJON: de la Cloche, Bourgogne, Jura, Mo- 
 rot. 
 FONTAINEBLEAU: Aigle Noir, France, 
 
 Europe, etc. 
 HAVRE: Frascati, Continental, Bordeaux, 
 
 Tortoni, Aigle d'Or, etc. 
 LYONS: de Lyon, Bellecour, Europe, Nou- 
 
 vel, des Etrangers, Bayard, etc. 
 MARSEILLES: Terminus, du Louvre et de 
 
 la Paix, Grand, Noailles, Orleans, des 
 
 Negociants, etc. 
 MENTONE: Des Anglais, des lies Brit- 
 
 tanniques, National, Bellevue, du Lou- 
 vre, etc. 
 METZ: Grand, Metz, Paris, France. 
 MONTE CARLO (Monaco): Metropole, 
 
 Paris, Grand, Hermitage, des Anglais, 
 
 Splendide, Littoral, Londres, etc. 
 NANCY: Grand, France, Europe, Ameri- 
 
 cain. 
 
210 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 NICE: des Anglais, Grand Bretagne, Beau- 
 rivage, France, Grand, Metropole, Pal- 
 ace, etc. 
 
 NIMES: Luxembourg, Manivet, Cheval 
 Blanc. 
 
 ORLEANS: Orleans, St. Aignan, Loiret. 
 
 PARIS: Du Louvre, Continental, Grand, 
 Albany, Meurice, de l'Athenee, Palais 
 D'Orsay, St. James, Brighton, Termi- 
 nus, Regina, Majestic, Elysee Palace, 
 Mirabeau. 
 
 RHEIMS: Lion d'Or, Maison Rouge, Eu- 
 rope, etc. 
 
 ROUEN: Albion, Angleterre, France, de la 
 Poste, Dauphin, Victoria, Univers. 
 
 ST. GERMAIN: Pavilion d'Henri IV., 
 Prince de Galles, l'Ange Gardien. 
 
 TOULON: Grand, Victoria, de la Paix, 
 Louvre. 
 
 TROYES: des Courriers, Mulet, Commerce. 
 
 VERSAILLES: des Reservoirs, du Vatel, de 
 France. 
 
 VICHY: Ambassadeurs, Mombrun, Nouvel, 
 des Princes, Grand Bretagne, etc. 
 
 GERMANY 
 
 AIX-LA-CHAPELLE: Grand Monarque, 
 Nuellens, Metropole, l'Empereur, Drag- 
 on d'Or, Imperial Crown, Elephant, du 
 Nord, etc. 
 
 ANDERNACH: Hackenbruch, Glocke, 
 Rhein. 
 
 ASSMANSHAUSEN: Krone, Anker, Rhein, 
 Eulberg, Germania. 
 
Hotels and Hotel List 211 
 
 AUGSBURG: Drei Mohren, Goldene 
 
 Traube, Weisses Lamm, Die Kronen. 
 BACHARACH : Herbrecht, Bliicherthal, 
 
 Weber. 
 BADEN-BADEN: Stephenie, Europe, Mess- 
 
 mer, Angleterre, Bellevue, Victoris, 
 
 Hirsch, Holland, etc. 
 BERLIN: Adlon, Bristol, Savoy, Palace, 
 
 Central, Kaiserhof, Continental, Rome, 
 
 etc., Kaiser, Windsor, Minerva, Beyer's, 
 
 etc. 
 BIEBRICH: Bellevue, Nassau, etc. 
 BINGEN: Victoria, Starkenburger, Distel. 
 BONN: Goldener Stern, Royal, Kley, Rhein- 
 
 beck, Swan, etc. 
 BOPPARD: Spiegel, Bellevue, Hirsch, Clos- 
 
 mann. 
 BORNHOFEN: Marienberg. 
 BRAUBACH: Kaiserhof, Rhein, Nassau. 
 BREMEN: Hillman's, Europe, Nord, etc. 
 CAPELLEN: Stolzenfels, Bellevue, Lah- 
 
 neck. 
 CARLSRUHE: Germania, Victoria, Grosse, 
 
 etc. 
 CAUB: Zum Griinen Wald, Adler, Pfalz. 
 COBLENCE: Giant, Bellevue, Anker, 
 
 Traube. 
 COLOGNE: Monopol, du Dome, du Nord, 
 
 Continental, Victoria, Disch, Reichshof, 
 
 St. Paul, etc. 
 DARMSTADT: Darmstadt, Traube, Rail- 
 way. 
 DRESDEN: Bellevue, Bristol, Europe, 
 
 Grand Union, Weber's, Stadt Berlin, 
 
 Rome, etc. 
 
212 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 EMS: Curhaus, Angleterre, Russie, Flandre, 
 
 etc. 
 FRANKFORT : Frankfurterhof, Russia, 
 
 Bristol, National, Continental, Schwan, 
 
 Union, Drexel, etc. 
 FREIBURG: Zahringer, Victoria, Engel, 
 
 etc. 
 iHAMBURG: Atlantic, Hamburg, Streit's, 
 
 Vier Jahrezeiten, etc. 
 HEIDELBERG: Europe, Grand, Schrieder, 
 
 Schloss, Victoria, Prince Karl, Ritter, 
 
 Reichspost, etc. 
 HOMBURG: Russie, Four Seasons, Victo- 
 ria, Bellevue, Central, Adler, etc. 
 KONIGSWINTER: Berlin, Europe, Rief- 
 
 fel, Traube, etc. 
 LEIPSIC: Hauffe, de Prusse, de Russie, 
 
 Sedan, etc. 
 LORCH: Krone, Schmidt, Railway. 
 MANNHEIM : Park, Pfalz, Kaiser, Deutsch, 
 
 National. 
 MAYENCE: Holland, Rhein, d'Angleterre, 
 
 Post, Taunus, Coblence, etc. 
 MUNICH: Four Seasons, Bavaria, Bellevue, 
 
 Continental, Rhein, d'Angleterre, etc., 
 
 Leinf elder, Central, etc. 
 NEUWIED: Anker, Wilder Mann, Mora- 
 vian, Mader. 
 NUREMBURG: Bavarian, Strauss, Gol- 
 
 dener Adler, Wiirtemberg, Grand, Wit- 
 
 telsbach, Rother Hahn. 
 OBERLAHNSTEIN: Weller, Breitenbach. 
 OBERWESEL: Rhein, Goldener Pfropfen- 
 
 zieher. 
 RATISBON: Goldenes Kreuz, Gruner 
 
Hotels and Hotel List 213 
 
 Kranz, Maximilian, etc. 
 
 REM AGE N: Fiirstenberg, Hoersen, Hol- 
 land, Rhein, Anker. 
 
 ROLANDSECK: Rolandseck, Victoria, 
 Bellevue, Decker. 
 
 RUDESHEIM: Darmstadt, Jung, Rhein- 
 stein, Ehrhard, etc. 
 
 ST. GOAR: Lilie, Schneider, Rheinfels. 
 
 ST. GOARSHAUSEN: Adler, Krone, Nas- 
 sau. 
 
 SPIRES: Rhein, Wittelsbach, Pfalz. 
 
 STRASBOURG: National, Ville de Paris, 
 Palace, France, Europe, etc. 
 
 STUTTGART: Marquardt, Royal, Krauss, 
 Textor, Post, etc. 
 
 TRARBACH: Bellevue, Adolf, Marx. 
 
 TREVES: Porta Nigra, Treves, Luxem- 
 bourg, Anker, Venedig. 
 
 ULM: Russia, Europe, Kronprinz, Golden 
 Lion, Oberpollinger. 
 
 WIESBADEN: Kaiserhof, Nassau, Metro- 
 pole, Four Seasons, Rose, Park, d'An- 
 gleterre, Victoria, Minerva, National, 
 Rome, etc. 
 
 WORMS: Alter Kaiser, Hartmann, Europe, 
 Kaiserhof, Reichskrone. 
 
 WURZBURG: Russia, Kronprinz, Central, 
 Schwan, Wurtemberg, National, etc. 
 
 ITALY 
 
 AMALFI: Cappuccini-Convento, Cappuccini- 
 Marina, della Luna, Sirena Italia, etc. 
 
 ANCONA: Roma e Pace, Victoria, Milano, 
 Ferrovia. 
 
 AREZZO: Angleterre, Victoria, Stella. 
 
214 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 ASSISI: del Subasio, Leone, Giotto, Min- 
 erva. 
 
 B AVE NO: Bellevue, Beaurivage, Simplon, 
 Suisse. 
 
 BELLAGIO: Grand, Grande Bretagne, Ge- 
 nazzini, Florence, Suisse. 
 
 BELLINZONA: Suisse, Cervo, Railway. 
 
 BERGAMO: Italia, Concordia, Cappello 
 d'Oro. 
 
 BOLOGNA: Brun, Italia, Europe, Stella 
 d'ltalia, Pellegrino. 
 
 BRESCIA: Italia, Brescia, Gallo, Gambero. 
 
 BRINDISI: Grand Hotel International, 
 Europe, Central. 
 
 CADENABBIA: Bellevue, Britannia, Belle- 
 Isle. 
 
 CAPRI: At the MARINA: Vesuvio, Alex- 
 andra, Bellevue, Continental, de la 
 Grotte Bleue, Bristol. At CAPRI: 
 Quisisana, Royal, Pagano. 
 
 CASTELLAMARE: Stabia, Quisisana, 
 Weiss. 
 
 CATANIA: Gran Bretagna, Bristol, Cen- 
 trale, Globe, Sangiorgi, Vittoria, Roma. 
 
 COLICO: Risi, Piazza Garibaldi, Croce 
 d'Oro. 
 
 COMO: Volta, Plinius, Metropole, Italia, 
 Bellevue. 
 
 CORTONA: Nazionale, Garibaldi. 
 
 CREMONA: Cappelo, Roma. 
 
 DESENZANO: Reale Meyer, Trento, Due 
 Colombe, Railway Restaurant. 
 
 DOMO D' OSSOLA: de la Ville, Terminus. 
 
 FERRA: Stella d'Oro, Europa. 
 
 FLORENCE: Savoy, Grand, de la Ville, 
 
Hotels and Hotel List 215 
 
 Italia, New York, Paoli, Gran Bretagna, 
 Florence and Washington, d* Albion, etc. 
 
 GENOA: Genoa, Savoy, Isotta, Eden, Mod- 
 erno, de la Ville, de Londres, de France, 
 Bertolini's, Bristol, etc. 
 
 LEGHORN: Grand, Angleterre, Giappone, 
 Falcone, Bastia. 
 
 LOCARNO: Locarno, Metropole, du Pare, 
 du Lac. 
 
 LUCCA: Croce di Malta, Universo, Corona. 
 
 LUCCA, BATHS OF: Europa, New York, 
 Bagni di Lucca. 
 
 LUGANO: du Pare, Bellevue, Washington, 
 Lugano, Suisse, Beauregard, etc. 
 
 LUINO: Simplon, Posta, Luino. 
 
 MANTUA: Aquila d'Oro, Senoner. 
 
 MILAN: de la Ville, Cavour, Milan, Conti- 
 nental, Palace, Europa, Manin, Metro- 
 pole, Terminus, du Pare, Schmid, etc. 
 
 MODENA: Reale, San Marco, Italia, Cen- 
 trale, Scudo di Francia. 
 
 NAPLES: Bertolini's Palace, Grand, Bris- 
 tol, Parker's, Metropole, Eden, Mac- 
 pherson's, Gran Bretagna, des Etran- 
 gers, Splendid, Continental, Riviera, 
 Santa Lucia. 
 
 ORTA: San Giulio, Orta, Belvedere. 
 
 ORVIETO: de la Belle Arti, Aquila Bianca. 
 
 PADUA: Croce d'Oro, Fanti. 
 
 PALERMO: des Palmes, Trinacria, de 
 France, de la Paix, Centrale, Oliva, 
 Italia. 
 
 PALLANZA: Grand Pallanza, Eden, Posta, 
 Milano. 
 
 PARMA: Croce Bianca, Italia. 
 
216 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 PAVIA: Croce Bianca, Tre Re. 
 PERUGIA: Palace, Brufani, Grande Bre- 
 
 tagne, Belle Aarti, Umbria. 
 PIACENZA: San Marco, Croce Bianca, 
 
 Italia, 
 PISA: Minerva, Victoria, Londres, Nettuno, 
 
 National, Washington. 
 PISTOIA: Globo, Rossini. 
 POMPEII: Diomede, del Sole, Suisse. 
 RAVENNA: Byron, Spada, d'Oro. 
 ROME: Quirinal, Russie, Select, Michel, 
 Grand Continental, Angleterre, Mod- 
 erne. 
 SALERNO: d'Angleterre. 
 SIENA: Continental, Siena, Aquila Nera, 
 
 Tre Mori, Scala, Toscana. 
 SORRENTO: Victoria, La Sirena, Tramon- 
 tane, Tasso, Gran Bretagne, etc. 
 STRESA: des lies Borromees, Milan, Beau- 
 
 sejour, Italia, Regina Palace. 
 SYRACUSE: Grand, Villa Agradina, des 
 
 Estrangers, Villa Politi, Vittoria, etc. 
 TERNI: Europa, Italia. 
 TIVOLI: Regina, Sibylla. 
 TURIN: Europa, Torino, de la Ville, Cen- 
 trale, Suisse, du Nord, Tre Corone, etc. 
 VENICE: Grand, Europa, Danieli, Britan- 
 nia, Italia, d'Angleterre, Victoria, Belle- 
 vue, San Marco, etc. 
 VERONA: di Londra, Colomba d'Oro, Aquila 
 
 Nera, San Lorenzo, etc. 
 VICENZA: Roma, Tre Garafoni, Parigi. 
 
 RUSSIA 
 MOSCOW: National, Berlin, Belle Vue. 
 
Hotels and Hotel List 217 
 
 ST. PETERSBURG: Victoria, de France, 
 
 Grand, d'Angleterre. 
 WARSAW: Bristol. 
 
 SPAIN 
 
 CADIZ: de France et Turin. 
 CORDOVA: Suisse. 
 ESCURIAL: Miranda, New Hotel. 
 GIBRALTAR: Bristol, Grand, Cecil. 
 GRANADA: Washington Irving, Victoria. 
 MADRID: Des Ambassadeurs, Roma, Paris. 
 SEVILLE: Madrid, de Paris, d'Angleterre. 
 TOLEDO: de Castilla. 
 
 SWITZERLAND 
 
 ALTDORF: Lowe, Schliissel, Tell. 
 AMSTEG: Stern (or Post), Hirsch, Weisses 
 
 Kreuz. 
 ANDERMATT: Grand, Bellevue, St. Gott- 
 
 hard, Drei Konige, Oberlap. 
 ARTH: Adler, Rigi. 
 BASLE : Trois Rois, Euler, Suisse, St. Gott- 
 
 hard, Victoria, Jura, Krafft, etc. 
 BERNE: Bernerhof, Bellevue, Schweizer- 
 
 hof, Ours, France, Pfistern, etc. 
 BRIEG: Couronne et Poste, Angleterre. 
 BRIENZ: Croix Blanche, Bar. 
 BRUNNEN: Waldstatter, Adler, Hirsch, 
 
 Eden, etc. 
 CHAMONIX: Couttet, Imperial, Royal, Ca- 
 
 chat, Angleterre, des Aples, Beausite, 
 
 France, etc. 
 CHILLON: (between Chillon and Ville- 
 
 neuve), Byron, Chillon, 
 
218 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 COIRE: Steinbock, Lukmanier, Croix 
 Blanche, Stern, Drei Konige. 
 
 CONSTANCE: Insel, Halm, Hecht, 
 Schonebeck, Krone, Falke. 
 
 DAVOS-PLATZ: Kurhaus Davos, Belvedere, 
 d'Angleterre, Victoria, etc. 
 
 EINSIEDELN: Pfau, Sonne, Schlange. 
 
 ENGELBERG: Grand, Titlis, Sonnenberg, 
 Engel, Suisse. 
 
 FLUELEN: Weisses Kreuz, Tell, Adler. 
 
 FREIBURG: Terminus, Suisse, Faucon, 
 Autruche, Tete Noire. 
 
 FURKA PASS: de la Furka. 
 
 GENEVA: Beaurivage, des Bergues, d'An- 
 gleterre, de la Paix, National, Rich- 
 mond, Park, etc. 
 
 GRINDELWALD: Bar, Eiger, du Glacier, 
 Schonegg, Burgener, Alpenruhe, Na- 
 tional, etc. 
 
 HOSPENTHAL: Meyerhof, Lion d'Or. 
 
 INTERLAKEN: Victoria, Beaurivage, 
 Royal St. George, de Alpes, Jungfrau, 
 etc. Terminus, du Nord, Beausite, etc. 
 
 KANDERSTEG: Kandersteg, Blumenapl, 
 Victoria, etc. 
 
 LAUSANNE : Gibbon, Richemont, des Alpes, 
 Beausite, National, du Nord, etc. 
 
 LAUTERBRUNNEN: Staubbach, Stein- 
 bock. 
 
 LEUKERBAD: des Alpes, Maison Blanche, 
 de France, Union, etc. 
 
 LINDAU: Bayrischerhof, Krone, Reute- 
 mann, Lindau. 
 
 LUCERNE : Schweizerhof, Luzernerhof, 
 National, Europe, Angleterre, Schwan, 
 
Hotels and Hotel List 219 
 
 Balances, Eden, Engel, Adler, des 
 
 Alpes, etc. 
 MARTIGNY: Clerc, Mont Blanc, National. 
 MEIRINGEN: Sauvage, des Alpes, Bar, 
 
 Krone. 
 MURREN: Miirren, des Alpes, Beausite. 
 NEUCHATEL: Bellevue, du Lac, Faucon, 
 
 Soleil, du Port. 
 NEUHAUSEN : Schweizerhof, Bellevue, 
 
 Rheinfall. 
 PONTRESINA: Roseg, Krone, Enderlin, 
 
 Weisses Kreuz, Pontresina, Languard. 
 RAGATZ: Quellenhof, Schweizerhof, Ra- 
 
 gatz, Tamina, Lattmann, Krone, Rosen- 
 
 garten, etc. 
 RIGI: Rigi-Kulm, Rigibahn, Felchlin, Rigi- 
 
 Staffel, Kaltbad, Bellevue, Rigi-First. 
 ST. GALL: Hecht, Walhalla, Hirsch, Setoff. 
 ST. MORITZ (ENGADINE). At the 
 
 BATHS: Kurhaus, Stahlbad. du Lac, 
 
 Bellevue, National, Central} etc. At the 
 
 VILLAGE: Kulm, Palace, Belvedere, 
 
 Suisse, etc. 
 SAM ADEN: Bermina (best), Bellevue, des 
 
 Alpes, Krone. 
 SCHAFFHAUSEN: Miiller, Riese. 
 SPIEZ (LAKE THUN): Park, Schonegg, 
 
 Spiez. 
 SPLUGEN: Bodenhaus, Spliigen. 
 THUN: Thun, Bellevue, Falke, Kreuz, 
 
 Krone, etc. 
 VEVEY: du Lac, Trois Couronnes, Vevey, 
 
 d'Angleterre, Trois Rois, etc. 
 VITZNAU: Rigibahn, Rigi, du Pare. 
 WEGGIS: du Lac, Lowe, Bellevue. 
 
220 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 WIESEN: Bellevue, Palmy. 
 
 ZERMATT: Monte Rosa, Mont-Cervin, Zer- 
 
 matt, Post, Terminus, Suisse. 
 ZUG: Hirsch, Bahnhof, Rigi. On the ZU- 
 
 GERBERG: Kurhaus, Felsenegg, 
 
 Schonfels. 
 ZURICH: Baur au Lac, Bellevue, Simplon, 
 
 Croix Blanche, National, etc. 
 
 TYROL 
 
 BELLUNO: des Alpes, Belluno, Cappellor 
 CORTINA: Bellevue, Aquila Nera, Cortina, 
 
 Miramonti, etc. 
 FELTRE: Doriguzzi, Tre Corone, Stella 
 
 d'Oro. 
 FRANZENFESTE: Railway Restaurant, 
 
 Bahnhof. 
 LANDRO: Baur. 
 
 LONGARONE: Posta, Roma, Lepre. 
 MISURINA: Grand Misurina. 
 PERAROLO: Corona d'Oro, Sant' Anna. 
 PIEVE DI CADORE: Marmarole, Angelo, 
 
 Cadore. 
 SCHLUDERBACH: Pioner's, Schluderbach, 
 
 Sigmundsbrunnen. 
 TOBLACH: Siidbahn, Union, Germania, etc. 
 
VIII 
 
 BOOKS TO READ 
 
 GENERAL INFORMATION 
 
 A Satchel Guide to Europe. By W. J. 
 
 Rolfe. 
 The Complete Pocket Guide to Europe. By 
 
 E. C. and T. L. Stedman. 
 Practical European Guide. By M. D. Fra- 
 
 zer. 
 Health Resorts of Europe. By Thomas 
 
 Linn, M.D. 
 Civilization During the Middle Ages. By 
 
 Adams. 
 Studies in Medieval History. By Stille. 
 The Construction of Europe. By Murdock. 
 Stoddard's Lectures. 
 Burton Holmes' Travelogues. 
 Picture Towns of Europe. By Albert B. 
 
 Osborne. McBride, Nast & Co. 
 
 AUSTRO-HUNGARY 
 
 Austro-Hungarian Life in Town and Coun- 
 try. By F. H. E. Palmer. 
 
 The Fair Land of Tyrol. By W. D. Mc- 
 Cracken. 
 
 Tyrol, the Land in the Mountains. By 
 Crohnan. 
 
 Tyrol and Its People. By Clive Holland. 
 
 Vienna and the Viennese. By M. H. Lands- 
 dale. 
 
 Baedeker's Austro-Hungary. 
 221 
 
222 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 BALKAN STATES 
 
 Through Savage Europe. By Harvey De 
 Windt. 
 
 A British Officer in the Balkans. By Percy 
 E. Henderson. 
 
 Motoring in the Balkans. By Frances Kins- 
 ley Hutchinson. 
 
 The Lands of the Tamed Turk. By Blair 
 Jaekel. L. C. Page & Co. 
 
 Turkey and the Balkan States. By Esther 
 Singleton. Dodd, Mead & Co. 
 
 Bosnia and the Herzegovina. By Maud 
 Holbach. 
 
 BELGIUM 
 
 Belgian Life in Town and Country. By 
 
 Demetrius C. Boulger. 
 Belgium of the Belgians. By Demetrius C. 
 
 Boulger. Chas. Scribner's Sons. 
 The Cathedrals and Churches of Belgium. 
 
 By T. Francis Bumpus. 
 Belgium. By Grant Allen. 
 
 ENGLAND AND WALES 
 
 England Without and Within. By Richard 
 Grant White. Houghton Mifflin Co. 
 
 Ways and Days Out of London. By Aida 
 Rodman De Milt. 
 
 Nooks and Corners of Old England. By Al- 
 len Fea. Chas. Scribner's Sons. 
 
 Certain Delightful English Towns. By W. 
 D. Howells. Harper & Bros.. 
 
 Seven English Cities. By W. D. Howells. 
 Harper & Bros. 
 
Books to Read 223 
 
 English Hours. By Henry James. Hough- 
 ton Mifflin Co. 
 
 Literary By-Paths in Old England. By 
 Henry C. Shelley. Little, Brown & Co. 
 
 London. By Henry James Forman. 
 
 A Shopping Guide to Paris and London. By 
 Frances B. S. Waxman. MeBride, Nast 
 & Co. 
 
 Walks in London. By A. J. C. Hare. 
 
 Three Weeks in the British Isles. By John 
 U. Higginbotham. 
 
 London and Its Celebrities. By J. H. Jesse. 
 
 Literary and Historical Memorial of London. 
 By J. H. Jesse. 
 
 Dickens' London. By Francis Miltoun. 
 
 Milton's London. By L. A. Mead. 
 
 Handbook of English Cathedrals. By S. 
 Van Rensselaer. 
 
 A Trip to England. By Goodwin Smith. 
 
 London Films. By W. D. Howells. 
 
 Shakespeare's England. By William Win- 
 ter. 
 
 Gray Days and Gold. By William Winter. 
 
 Cathedral Days. By A. B. Dodd. 
 
 Baedeker's Great Britain. 
 
 Baedeker's London and Its Environs. 
 
 Black's Devonshire. 
 
 Black's Isle of Wight. 
 
 Black's Leamington (including Stratford- 
 on-Avon, Kenilworth, Warwick, etc.). 
 
 Black's English Lakes. 
 
 Black's Wales. 
 
 Black's London and Its Environs. 
 
 Ward, Locke & Co.'s Guide to South Wales. 
 
 Cook's Handbook for London, 
 
224 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 Cook's Historical and Literary Map of Lon- 
 don. 
 
 Wild Wales. By Geo. Borrow. 
 
 The South Wales Coast. By Ernest Rhys. 
 F. A. Stokes Co. 
 
 FRANCE 
 
 Seeing France with Uncle John. By Anne 
 Warner. 
 
 France and the French. By Charles Daw- 
 barn. The Macmillan Co. 
 
 France in the 20th Century. By W. L. 
 George. John Lane Co. 
 
 Home Life in France. By Matilda Barbara 
 Betham-Edwards. 
 
 French Life in Town and Country. By 
 Hannah Lynch. G. P. Putnam's Sons. 
 
 Royal Palaces and Parks of France. By 
 Francis Miltoun. L. C. Page & Co. 
 
 The France of To-day. By Barrett Wen- 
 dell. Chas. Scribner's Sons. 
 
 Unfrequented France. By M. Betham- 
 Edwards. 
 
 A Little Tour in France. By Henry James. 
 Houghton Mifflin Co. 
 
 In the Rhone Country. By Rose G. Kings- 
 ley. E. P. Dutton Co. 
 
 Through the French Provinces. By Ernest 
 Peixotto. Chas. Scribner's Sons. 
 
 An Inland Voyage. By Robert Louis Stev- 
 enson. 
 
 Travels with a Donkey. 
 
 A Motor Flight through France. By Edith 
 Wharton. Chas. Scribner's Sons, 
 
Books to Read 225 
 
 Andorra — The Hidden Republic. By Lewis 
 Gaston Leary. McBride, Nast & Co. 
 
 A Shopping Guide to Paris and London. 
 By Frances B. S. Waxman. McBride, 
 Nast & Co. 
 
 Paris. By Grant Allen. 
 
 Dumas' Paris. By Francis Miltoun. 
 
 Rambles in Brittany. By Francis Miltoun. 
 
 Baedeker's Paris and Its Environs. 
 
 Baedeker's Northern France. 
 
 Baedeker's Southern France. 
 
 GERMANY 
 
 Home Life in Germany. By Mrs. Alfred 
 
 Sidgwick. 
 German Life in Town and Country. By 
 
 William Harbutt Dawson. G. P. Put- 
 nam's Sons. 
 The Danube with Pen and Pencil. By B. 
 
 Granville Baker. 
 Romantic Germany. By Robert Haven 
 
 Schauffler. The Century Co. 
 The German Empire. By Howard. 
 Among Bavarian Inns. By F. R. Fraprie. 
 Germany, Her People and Their Story. By 
 
 Gifford. 
 Modern Germany. By Eltzbacher. 
 Baedeker's Northern Germany. 
 Baedeker's Southern Germany. 
 Baedeker's Rhine. 
 
 Baedeker's Berlin and Its Environs. 
 Cook's Handbook to the Rhine and the Black 
 
 Forest. 
 
 GREECE 
 
 The World of Homer. By Andrew Lang. 
 
226 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 Greece and the iEgean Islands. By Philip 
 Sanford Marden. Houghton Mifflin Co. 
 
 Sketches and Studies in Italy and Greece. 
 By John Addington Symonds. 
 
 The Isles and Shrines of Greece. By Sam- 
 uel J. Barrows. 
 
 Baedeker's Greece and the Greek Islands. 
 
 HOLLAND 
 
 Windmills and Wooden Shoes. By Blair 
 Jaekel. McBride, Nast & Co. 
 
 Holland of To-day. By Geo. Wharton Ed- 
 wards. Moffat, Yard & Co. 
 
 Dutch Life in Town and Country. By P. 
 M. Hough. G. P. Putnam's Sons. 
 
 A Wanderer in Holland. By E. V. Lucas. 
 The Macmillan Co. 
 
 Home Life in Holland. By D. S. Meldrum. 
 The Macmillan Co. 
 
 The Spell of Holland. By Burton E. Ste- 
 venson. L. C. Page & Co. 
 
 The American in Holland. By W. E. Grif- 
 fiths. 
 
 Holland. By E. De Amicis. 
 
 Puritan in England, Holland and America. 
 By Douglass Campbell. 
 
 Holland and the Hollanders. By David S. 
 Meldrum. 
 
 The Rise of the Dutch Republic. By John 
 Lothrop Motley. 
 
 Baedeker's Belgium and Holland. 
 
 IRELAND 
 
 Romantic Ireland. By M. T. and B. M. 
 
 Mansfield. 
 Black's Ireland. 
 
Books to Read 227 
 
 Black's Killarney and South Ireland. 
 One Irish Summer. By Curtis. 
 
 ITALY 
 
 The Italians of To-Day. By Rene Bazin. 
 
 Henry Holt & Co. 
 Italian Life in Town and Country. By Luigi 
 
 Villari. G. P. Putnam's Sons. 
 My Italian Year. By Richard Bogot. Jas. 
 
 Pott & Co. 
 The Ideal Italian Tour. By Henry James 
 
 Forman. Houghton Mifflin Co. 
 Italian Cities. By Edwin Howland Blash- 
 
 field and E. W. Blashfield. Chas. Scrib- 
 
 ner's Sons. 
 The Cathedrals and Churches of Northern 
 
 Italy. By T. Francis Bumpus. L. C. 
 
 Page & Co. 
 The Valley of Aosta. By Felice Ferrero. G. 
 
 P. Putnam's Sons. 
 Sketches and Studies in Italy and Greece. 
 
 By John Addington Symonds. 
 Walks in Rome. By A. J. C. Hare. 
 Cities of Central Italy. By. A. J. C. Hare. 
 Cities of Southern Italy. By A. J. C. Hare. 
 Venetian Life. By W. D. Howells. 
 Cities of Northern Italy. By Grant Allen. 
 The Hill Towns of Italy. By E. R. Wil- 
 liams, Jr. 
 A Little Pilgrimage in Italy. By Olave M. 
 
 Potter. 
 Italy, Her People and Their Story. By 
 
 GifFord. 
 In Unknown Tuscany. By Lawrence Hut- 
 ton. 
 
228 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 The Road in Tuscany. By Maurice Hew- 
 lett. Chas. Scribner's Sons. 
 
 Earthwork Out of Tuscany. By Maurice 
 Hewlett. Chas. Scribner's Sons. 
 
 Italian Hours. By Henry James. Hough- 
 ton Mifflin Co. 
 
 Italian Journeys. By W. D. Howells. 
 Houghton Mifflin Co. 
 
 Roman Holidays. By W. D. Howells. 
 Harper & Bros. 
 
 Tuscan Cities. By W. D. Howells. Hough- 
 ton Mifflin Co. 
 
 By Italian Seas. By Ernest Peixotto. 
 Chas. Scribner's Sons. 
 
 Gondola Days. By F. Hopkinson Smith. 
 Houghton Mifflin Co. 
 
 Italian Backgrounds. By Edith Wharton. 
 
 Salve Venetia. By F. Marion Crawford. 
 The Macmillan Co. 
 
 Cities of Umbria. By Lawrence Hutton. 
 
 Cook's Handbook for Northern Italy. 
 
 Cook's Handbook for Southern Italy. 
 
 Baedeker's Northern Italy. 
 
 Baedeker's Central Italy and Rome. 
 
 Baedeker's Southern Italy and Sicily. 
 
 Baedeker's Italy from the Alps to Naples. 
 
 MEDITERRANEAN COUNTRIES 
 
 Baedeker's Mediterranean. 
 Macmillan's Mediterranean. 
 The Mediterranean Trip. By Noah Brooks. 
 Mediterranean Winter Resorts By Rey- 
 nolds Ball. 
 
 NORWAY AND SWEDEN 
 
 Baedeker's Norway and Sweden. 
 
Books to Read 229 
 
 PALESTINE 
 
 The Real Palestine of To-day. By Lewis 
 Gaston Leary. McBride, Nast & Co. 
 
 RUSSIA 
 
 Greater Russia. By Wirt Gerrare. 
 
 The Story of Moscow. By Wirt Gerrare. 
 
 The Red Reign. By Kellog Durland. The 
 
 Century Co. 
 Studies in Russia. By A. J. C. Hare. 
 Russian Rambles. By Isabel F. Hapgood. 
 
 SCOTLAND 
 
 Romantic Edinburgh. By John Geddie. 
 
 Scotland, Historic and Romantic. By Maria 
 Horner Landsdale. 
 
 Lands of Scott. By J. F. Hunnewell. 
 
 In the Hebrides. By C. F. G. Cumming. 
 
 Black's Scotland. 
 
 A Land of Romance. By Jean Lang. Lon- 
 don: I. C. & E. C. Jack. 
 
 Over the Border. By Wm. Winter. Moffat 
 Yard & Co. 
 
 SPAIN AND PORTUGAL 
 
 The Cities of Spain. By Edward Hutton. 
 The Macmillan Co. 
 
 Spanish Highways and Byways. By Kath- 
 arine Lee Bates. The Macmillan Co. 
 
 Cathedrals of Spain. By John Allyne Gade. 
 Houghton Mifflin Co. 
 
 Castilian Days. By John Hay. Houghton 
 Mifflin Co. 
 
 Travels in Spain. By Philip Sanford Mor- 
 den. Houghton Mifflin Co. 
 
 Wanderings in Spain. By A. J. C. Hare. 
 
230 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 A Corner of Spain. By Miriam Coles Har- 
 ris. 
 
 Through Portugal. By Martin Hume. 
 
 Lisbon and Cintra. By Inchbold. 
 
 The Cathedral Cities of Spain. By Collins. 
 
 The Land of the Don. By Williams. 
 
 Saunterings in Spain. By Seymour. 
 
 Baedeker's Spain and Portugal. 
 
 Home Life in Spain. By S. L. Bensusan. 
 The Macmillan Co. 
 
 Four Months Afoot in Spain. By Harry A. 
 Franck. The Century Co. 
 
 SWITZERLAND 
 
 Switzerland. By Oscar L. Kuhns. T. Y. 
 Crowell & Co. 
 
 The Rise of the Swiss Republic. By W. D. 
 McCracken. Henry Holt & Co. 
 
 Swiss Life in Town and Country. By Al- 
 fred Thomas Story. G. P. Putnam's 
 Sons. 
 
 Switzerland of the Swiss. By Frank Webb. 
 Chas. Scribner's Sons. 
 
 Romantic and Teutoniq Switzerland. By W. 
 D. McCracken. 
 
 Baedeker's Switzerland. 
 
 TURKEY 
 
 Turkey of the Ottomans. By Lucy M. Gar- 
 nett. Chas. Scribner's Sons. 
 
 Home Life in Turkey. By Lucy M. Gar- 
 nett. The Macmillan Co. 
 
 Turkish Life in Town and Country. By 
 Lucy M. Garnett. Newnes: London. 
 
 Behind Turkish Lattices. By Hester Don- 
 aldson Jenkins. 
 
232 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 values all down through Servia, Bulgaria, 
 Montenegro and the remainder of the 
 Balkan States. 
 
 Gold coins are somewhat scarce in 
 Italy, paper bank notes being used as 
 substitutes. The same is true of Spain 
 and Portugal. Outside of the country 
 in which they are current these bank 
 notes have a very uncertain value, if, in- 
 deed, they may be exchanged at all. In 
 Italy and Spain especially there is almost 
 as much counterfeit in circulation as there 
 is real money. It is well, therefore, to 
 ascertain at the money changer's just 
 what coins are good and what are spuri- 
 ous. In Italy any silver coin bearing a 
 date prior to 1863 is of no monetary 
 value whatever. 
 
 There is usually a money changer at 
 every frontier station, and the traveler 
 will find it to his advantage, after having 
 attended to the customs examination of 
 his baggage, to change some of his money 
 of the country through which he has just 
 passed into the coinage of the country 
 he is about to enter — at all events, 
 enough of it to defray incidental ex- 
 penses until he can visit a bank and have 
 the remainder changed at exact current 
 rates. 
 
 This is just one instance where the in- 
 ternational travelers' checks stand one in 
 
Foreign Money 233 
 
 good stead. By purchasing them the 
 traveler will have interchangeable bank 
 notes as good as gold and accepted in 
 each country for the exact amount in the 
 coinage of that country mentioned on the 
 check, which is a very satisfactory rate of 
 exchange. 
 
234 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
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236 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
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CUSTOMS ON RETURN 
 
 IN brief, the customs regulations of the 
 United States, as they stand at the 
 present writing, with respect to returning 
 European travelers and the baggage that 
 accompanies them, allow each person to 
 bring into the country free of duty not 
 more than $100 worth of personal arti- 
 cles purchased abroad, which, from their 
 character, appear to have been necessary 
 on the journey. Thus, a certain number 
 of clothes, whether new or partially worn, 
 but which must be made up ready to wear, 
 will be passed by the inspectors; dresses 
 in the piece, whether cut or not, will be 
 charged for. Jewelry and toilet articles 
 are considered as necessary to the com- 
 fort and the good general appearance, 
 perhaps, of the passenger. Fifty cigars 
 or 300 cigarettes, if intended for the 
 purchaser's individual use, may be in- 
 cluded in the list and must be included 
 in the $100 allowance. A person bring- 
 ing in a number of articles of silver, for 
 example, if the whole amount does not 
 total even $50, will be charged duty. No 
 longer may a person enter on his declara- 
 238 
 
Customs on Return 239 
 
 tion blank such an item as "presents — 
 $20." "Presents" are not necessary to 
 the personal comfort of the traveler, and 
 duty will be imposed upon them. 
 
 Some days before landing on American 
 soil each passenger will be handed a blank 
 form of United States customs declara- 
 tion. Subjects of foreign countries re- 
 ceive a special form which admits of no 
 $100 allowance; and persons having been 
 abroad for a continuous period of three 
 years or more receive a special form 
 which admits their bringing into the 
 country household effects and personal 
 belongings free of duty. On this blank 
 form the passenger must fill in the spaces 
 designated with his or her name, age, ad- 
 dress in America, whether a born or 
 naturalized American citizen, the date of 
 sailing for Europe and steamer, how 
 many pieces of baggage were taken over 
 and how many the passenger is returning 
 with. Below all this may be found a long 
 blank space upon which to record in de- 
 tail the purchases made while abroad, the 
 value of each (and it is best to make 
 computations in the American equiva- 
 lents) and the total amount. 
 
 It is wise to put down every item of 
 any consequence and its actual foreign 
 cost. At the end of the list the very in- 
 significant articles as to price may be 
 
240 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 summed up under such a notation as "In- 
 cidentals — $7," or whatever the aggre- 
 gate cost of these amounts to. 
 
 After this declaration has been signed 
 by the passenger, it should be delivered, 
 either in person or through the room 
 steward, to the purser of the ship. He 
 will give in return a ticket which the 
 passenger retains and upon the presenta- 
 tion of which at the chief customs in- 
 spector's window on the dock will entitle 
 the passenger to have an inspector de- 
 tailed to examine his baggage. 
 
 All customs declarations, properly 
 made out, must be in the hands of the 
 purser before the ship reaches the quar- 
 antine station at the entrance to New 
 York harbor. At this point customs of- 
 ficers will board the' ship, examine her 
 "papers," and take over the customs 
 declarations from the purser. They will 
 be the first off the ship when she docks, 
 and by the time you are ashore the chief 
 inspector will have had your declaration 
 in hand a half an hour. 
 
 The ship's stewards will bring your 
 stateroom baggage off the ship and place 
 it upon the dock near the standard which 
 bears in bold relief the initial of your last 
 name. Baggage consigned to the hold of 
 the ship will be slower in making its ap- 
 pearance. (Second warning about bag- 
 
Customs on Return 241 
 
 gage: whenever possible, travel with as 
 few pieces as possible, and these of such 
 size as may be easily put in the state- 
 room.) 
 
 After seeing that all baggage has been 
 brought ashore and accumulated near the 
 respective initial standard, but not until 
 then, the time will be ripe to fall in line 
 before the chief inspector's window. 
 When your turn comes, which it certainly 
 will in spite of delays, hand over your 
 ticket and acknowledge your signature on 
 your declaration. A waiting inspector 
 will be detailed immediately to be led by 
 you to your pile of luggage. If your 
 declaration has footed up more than $100 
 worth of purchases abroad do not be 
 foolish enough to offer the inspector 
 money, or even a cigar, as a play for 
 leniency. It looks bad on the face of it, 
 and besides is considered an act of brib- 
 ery, punishable by fine and imprisonment. 
 
 After the inspector has practically 
 unpacked your grips and trunks and 
 strewn the result over anything and 
 everything that may happen to be within 
 reach in search of the articles noted upon 
 your declaration, each of which he must 
 see and check off, it is too late then to 
 figure on how you would arrange matters 
 if you had your packing to do over on 
 board the ship. To expedite the inspec- 
 
242 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 tion of baggage and thus enable you to 
 get off the dock before your last train 
 leaves for home, not to mention being re- 
 lieved of the necessity of having to re- 
 pack entirely, it is a wise traveler who, 
 when practicable, puts all his foreign 
 purchases on top of his packing where 
 they may be easily lifted and examined 
 by the inspector without disturbing the 
 shoes and so forth on the bottom. Assist 
 the inspector in every way possible, and 
 you will be treated in a courteous manner. 
 I have had inspectors beg my pardon for 
 it being their duty to see a certain article 
 which was impossible to pack on the top 
 of the trunk-tray, while my neighbor saw 
 the most of his belongings turned upside 
 down and scattered about simply because 
 he resented the procedure. Of course 
 there are inspectors and inspectors just 
 as there are ship captains and ship cap- 
 tains, but in a great measure it will de- 
 pend upon the passenger himself as to 
 the manner in which his baggage is 
 examined. 
 
 Dutiable articles will be laid aside by 
 the inspector until he can call an ap- 
 praiser to determine the duty to be paid 
 upon each. This must be settled in cash 
 at the collector's window before the arti- 
 cles may be repacked. It is well to re- 
 turn, therefore, with some money in the 
 
Customs on Return 243 
 
 pocket. But baggage will be held on the 
 pier for twenty-four hours to enable the 
 passenger to procure sufficient cash for 
 the payment of duties. 
 
 As said before, $100 worth of articles 
 purchased abroad, but necessary to the 
 comfort of the passenger on the journey, 
 will be admitted duty free. A suit of 
 clothes valued at $20 will pass the in- 
 spection ; a little silver sugar shaker 
 worth $2 will not. 
 
 Valuable articles of foreign make 
 brought into this country, but upon 
 which duty has once been paid, had bet- 
 ter be registered in America before being 
 taken abroad, so that there will be no 
 dispute about their free entry when the 
 owner returns from Europe. Owing to 
 an international agreement, coats made 
 of Alaskan seal purchased abroad cannot 
 be brought into America under any cir- 
 cumstances. Before taking a sealskin 
 coat abroad it should be registered in 
 America at the proposed port of reentry. 
 
 The privilege to demand a re-appraise- 
 ment is extended to any passenger dis- 
 satisfied with the value placed upon 
 dutiable articles by the appraiser, and the 
 application for such should be made im- 
 mediately to the deputy collector on the 
 pier. If this procedure is not practi- 
 cable, the articles may be left in the care 
 
244 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 of the customs officials and application 
 for re-appraisement made in writing to 
 the collector at the Customs House 
 within two days after the original exam- 
 ination. 
 
 Since the United States customs in- 
 spector will be about the last exigency 
 encountered by the European tourist, a 
 reprint of the latest United States cus- 
 toms regulations may be used appropri- 
 ately to close this little volume dealing 
 with the facts and fallacies of European 
 travel. 
 
 NOTICE TO PASSENGERS 
 
 Paragraph 709, appearing in the free list 
 of the present tariff act, governing passen- 
 gers' baggage, reads as follows: 
 
 709. "Wearing apparel, articles of per- 
 sonal adornment, toilet articles, and similar 
 personal effects of persons arriving in the 
 United States; but this exemption shall only 
 include such articles as actually accompany 
 and are in the use of, and as are necessary 
 and appropriate for the wear and use of such 
 persons, for the immediate purposes of the 
 journey and present comfort and conven- 
 ience, and shall not be held to apply to mer- 
 chandise or articles intended for other per- 
 sons or for sale; provided, That in case of 
 residents of the United States returning from 
 abroad, all wearing apparel and other per- 
 sonal effects taken by them out of the United; 
 States to foreign countries shall be admitted 
 
Customs on Return 245 
 
 free of duty, without regard to their value, 
 upon their identity being established, under 
 appropriate rules and regulations to be pre- 
 scribed by the Secretary of the Treasury, 
 but no more than one hundred dollars in value 
 of articles purchased abroad by such resi- 
 dents of the United States shall be admitted 
 free of duty upon their return." 
 
 residents of the united states 
 
 Residents of the United States must 
 declare all articles which have been ob- 
 tained abroad by purchase or otherwise, 
 whether used or unused, and whether on their 
 persons, in their clothing, or in their baggage. 
 The foreign value of each article, stated in 
 United States money, must also be declared. 
 
 Articles taken from the United States 
 and remodeled, repaired, or improved 
 abroad must be declared, and the cost of 
 such remodeling, repairing, or improving 
 must be separately stated: 
 
 THE FOLLOWING ARTICLES ARE DUTIABLE I 
 
 Household effects, including books, pic- 
 tures, furniture, tableware, table linen, bed 
 linen, and other similar articles, unless used 
 abroad by the owner for a period of a year or 
 more. 
 
 Goods in the piece. 
 
 Articles of any nature intended for sale, 
 or for other persons. 
 
 The following articles are free if un- 
 der $100 in value and if necessary for com- 
 fort and convenience for the purposes of the 
 
246 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 journey, and not for sale nor for other per- 
 sons: 
 
 Clothing. 
 
 Toilet articles, such as combs, brushes, 
 soaps, cosmetics, shaving and manicure sets, 
 etc. 
 
 Personal adornments, jewelry, etc. 
 
 Similar personal effects, which may include 
 — Cameras, canes, fishing tackle, glasses 
 (field, opera, marine), golf sticks, guns, 
 musical instruments, parasols, photographs, 
 smokers' articles, steamer rugs and shawls, 
 toys, trunks, valises, etc. 
 
 Clothing and other personal effects taken 
 out of the United States by the passenger if 
 not increased in value or improved in condi- 
 tion while abroad. If increased in value or 
 improved in condition, they are dutiable on 
 the cost of the repairs. 
 
 The above lists of articles which are duti- 
 able and nondutiable are stated for the as- 
 sistance of passengers and are not exhaustive. 
 All articles are dutiable unless specifically 
 exempted by law. 
 
 Pack in one trunk, if practicable, all duti- 
 able articles. 
 
 Receipted bills for foreign purchases 
 should be presented whenever possible. 
 
 Use does not exempt from duty wearing 
 apparel or other articles obtained abroad, 
 but such articles will be appraised at their 
 value in the condition as imported, due al- 
 lowance being made for depreciation through 
 wear and use. 
 
Customs on Return 247 
 
 nonresidents of the united states 
 Nonresidents of the United States are 
 
 ENTITLED TO BRING IN FREE OF DUTY, with- 
 out regard to the one-hundred-dollar exemp- 
 tion, such articles as are in the nature of 
 wearing apparel, articles of personal adorn- 
 ment, toilet articles, and similar personal 
 effects, necessary and appropriate for their 
 wear and use for the purposes of the jour- 
 ney and present comfort and convenience 
 and which are not intended for other persons 
 or for sale. 
 
 Citizens of the United States, or per- 
 sons who have at any time resided in this 
 country, shall be deemed to be residents of 
 the United States, unless they shall have 
 abandoned their residence in this country 
 and acquired an actual bona fide residence 
 in a foreign country. 
 
 Such citizens or former residents who 
 desire the privileges granted by law to non- 
 residents must show to the satisfaction of the 
 collector's representative on the pier, sub- 
 ject to the collector's approval, that they 
 have given up their residence in the United 
 States and that they have become bona fide 
 residents of a foreign country. 
 
 The residence of a wife follows that of the 
 husband; and the residence of a minor child 
 follows that of its parents. 
 
 GOODS OTHER THAN PERSONAL EFFECTS 
 
 Household effects of persons or families 
 from foreign countries will be admitted free 
 of duty only if actually used abroad by them 
 
248 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 not less than one year, and if not intended 
 for any other person, nor for sale. Such ef- 
 fects should be declared whether the passen- 
 ger be a resident or a nonresident of the 
 United States. 
 
 Articles intended for use in business, 
 or for other persons, theatrical apparel, 
 properties, and sceneries, must be declared 
 by passengers, whether residents or nonresi- 
 dents. 
 
 cigars and cigarettes 
 All cigars and cigarettes must be declared. 
 Each passenger over eighteen years of age 
 may bring in free of duty 50 cigars or 300 
 cigarettes if for the bona fide use of such 
 passenger. Such cigars and cigarettes will 
 be in addition to the articles included within 
 the $100 exemption. 
 
 BAGGAGE DECLARATIONS 
 
 The law provides that every person en- 
 tering the United States shall make a decla- 
 ration and entry of his or her personal bag- 
 gage. The law further requires that the 
 values of articles shall be determined by cus- 
 toms officers, irrespective of the statements 
 of passengers relative thereto. 
 
 It will thus be seen that there is no dis- 
 courtesy in the requirement that both a 
 declaration and an independent appraisal 
 shall be made. Taken together, these re- 
 quirements place the passenger in the same 
 position as any other importer of merchan- 
 dise. 
 
 Passengers should observe that on the 
 
Customs on Return 249 
 
 sheet given them there are two forms of 
 declarations ; the one printed in black is for 
 residents of the United States; the one in 
 red, for nonresidents. 
 
 The exact number of pieces of baggage, 
 including all trunks, valises, boxes, packages, 
 and hand bags of any description accom- 
 panying the passenger, must be stated in the 
 declaration. 
 
 The senior member of a family, present 
 as a passenger, may make declaration for 
 the entire family. 
 
 Ladies traveling alone should state that 
 fact in their declaration in order that an ex- 
 peditious examination of their baggage may 
 be made. 
 
 When the declaration is prepared and 
 signed, the coupon at the bottom of the form 
 must be detached and retained by the pas- 
 senger, and the form given to the officer of 
 the ship designated to receive the same. A 
 declaration spoiled in its preparation must 
 not be destroyed, but turned over to the pur- 
 ser, who will furnish a new blank to the 
 passenger. 
 
 After all the baggage and effects of 
 the passenger have been landed upon the 
 pier, the coupon which has been retained by 
 the passenger must be presented at the in- 
 spector's desk, whereupon an inspector will 
 be detailed to examine the baggage. Pas- 
 sengers must acknowledge in person, on the 
 pier, their signature to their declarations. 
 
 Examination of any baggage may be 
 postponed if the passenger requests the of- 
 
250 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 ficer taking his declaration to have it sent 
 to the appraiser's store. 
 
 Passengers must not deduct the $100 
 exemption in making out their declarations. 
 Such deductions will be made by customs of- 
 ficers on the pier. 
 
 contested valuation 
 Passengers dissatisfied with values 
 placed upon dutiable articles by the customs 
 officers on the pier may demand a reexam- 
 ination, but application therefor should be 
 immediately made to the officers there in 
 charge. If for any reason this course is im- 
 practicable, the packages containing the arti- 
 cles should be left in customs custody and 
 application for reappraisement made to the 
 collector of customs, in writing, within ten 
 days after the original appraisement. No 
 request for reappraisement can be enter- 
 tained after the articles have been removed 
 from customs custody. 
 
 miscellaneous provisions 
 Currency (or certified checks after 
 June 1, 1911) only can be accepted in pay- 
 ment of duties, but, upon request, baggage 
 will be retained on the piers for twenty-four 
 hours to enable the owner to secure currency 
 or certified checks. 
 
 The offering of gratuities or bribes to 
 customs officers is a violation of law. Cus- 
 toms officers who accept gratuities or bribes 
 will be dismissed from the service, and all 
 parties concerned will be liable to criminal 
 prosecution. 
 
Customs on Return 251 
 
 Discourtesy or incivility on the part of 
 customs officers should be reported to the col- 
 lector at the customhouse, to the deputy 
 collector or the deputy surveyor at the pier, 
 or to the Secretary of the Treasury. 
 
 BAGGAGE FOR TRANSPORTATION IN BOND 
 
 Baggage intended for delivery at ports 
 in the United States other than the port of 
 arrival, or in transit through the United 
 States to a foreign country, may be for- 
 warded thereto without the assessment of 
 duty at the port of arrival, by the various 
 railroads and express companies, whose rep- 
 resentatives will be found on the pier. 
 
 Passengers desiring to have their baggage 
 forwarded in bond should indicate such in- 
 tention and state the value thereof in their 
 declaration before any examination of the 
 baggage has been made. 
 
 sealskin garments 
 An act of Congress of 1897, as amended 
 in 1910, expressly forbids the importation 
 into the United States of garments made in 
 whole or in part of the skins of seals taken 
 in the waters of the Pacific ocean; and un- 
 less the owner is able to establish by com- 
 petent evidence and to the satisfaction of 
 the collector that the garments are not pro- 
 hibited, they can not be admitted. 
 
 penalty for not declaring articles 
 obtained abroad 
 
 Under Sections 2802 and 3082 of the 
 Revised Statutes of the United States, 
 
252 Planning a Trip Abroad 
 
 ARTICLES OBTAINED ABROAD AND NOT DE- 
 CLARED ARE SUBJECT TO SEIZURE, AND THE 
 PASSENGER IS LIABLE TO CRIMINAL PROSECU- 
 TION. 
 
 James F. Curtis, 
 Assistant Secretary. 
 Treasury Department, 
 Office of the Secretary, 
 Washington, March 11/., 1911. 
 
LET US HELP YOU 
 
 PLAN A TRIP ABROAD 
 
 No matter where you want to go our tourist depart- 
 ment will tell you how to get there at the least ex- 
 pense and trouble. 
 
 NORTH GERMAN LLOYD 
 
 Tuesday and Thursday sailings on the most superb 
 steamships to 
 
 LONDON 
 
 Saturday 
 sailings to 
 
 PARIS BREMEN 
 
 The Mediterranean 
 
 Gibraltar, Algiers, Genoa and Naples. 
 Three fascinating Cruises to the Palm-Treed 
 
 West Indies 
 
 Thurs.. Jan. 16, 1913 Thurs.. Feb. 20, 1913 
 
 Thurs..Mar. 27. 1913 
 
 Inaugurating the unparalleled North German Lloyd 
 Service to the Coral Lands of the American Riviera. 
 By the Superb Transatlantic Liner GROSSER 
 KURFURST. 13.243 Tons. 
 
 OELRICHS & CO. 
 
 General Agents 
 
 5 BROADWAY 
 
 New York 
 
All Around 
 the World 
 
 you will find people ready 
 to cash our 
 
 Travelers' Checks 
 
 Failure to make satisfactory 
 arrangements for their 
 funds has embarrassed many 
 travelers. 
 
 Provided with our checks 
 such experiences are 
 avoided. 
 
 K. N. & K. Checks are safe, 
 convenient and economical 
 
 If you contemplate a trip to 
 any part of the world, send 
 for our booklet "Funds for 
 Travelers. " It contains 
 information that is both 
 interesting and valuable. 
 
 KNAUTH, NAGHOD 
 & KUHNE, Bankers 
 
 Leipzig 15 William St. 
 
 Germany New York 
 
Put these books in your 
 bag before you start 
 
 Andorra, The Hidden Republic. By Lewis 
 Gaston Leary. The first book in English 
 on the smallest republic in the world. 
 Illustrated. $1. 50 net, postage 12c. 
 
 Windmills and Wooden Shoes. By Blair 
 Jaekel, F. R. G. S. Holland— graphically 
 depicted by a world traveler. Illustrated. 
 $1.10 net, postage 10c. 
 
 A Shopping Guide to Paris and London. 
 By Frances B. S. Waxman. How and 
 where to shop in Europe's shopping centers. 
 Illustrated. 75c. net, postage 8c. 
 
 Through Our Unknown Southwest. By 
 Agnes C. Laut. The wonders of ancient 
 civilizations and of present races. Illus- 
 trated. $2.00 net, postage 20c. 
 
 The Real Palestine of Today. By Lewis 
 Gaston Leary. * 'An unf orgetable picture 
 of the little land that yet looms so large in 
 the history and heart of mankind.* * — Chi- 
 cago Record-Herald. Illustrated. $1.00 
 net, postage 10c. 
 
 — Not to forget some good fiction 
 
 The Lovers of Sanna. By Mary Stewart 
 Cutting, author of Little Stories of Married 
 Life, The Wayfarers, etc. Illustrated. $1.00 
 net, postage 8c. 
 
 The Second Deluge. By Garrett P. Serviss, 
 author of Astronomy with the Naked Eye, 
 etc. Illustrated. $1.35 net, postage lie. 
 
 Traumerei. By Leona Dalrymple. A real 
 "find" in a clean, sweet novel of modern 
 life. Illustrated. $1.35 net, postage 14c. 
 
 Order from Your Bookseller Send for Catalogue 
 
 McBride, Nast & Co., Publishers 
 
 Union Square New York City 
 
C5TABU5HE0 IBIS 
 
 C^OTHI^ 
 
 BROADWAY COR.TWENTY-SEC0ND ST. 
 
 NEW YORK. 
 
 FOR FOREIGN OR 
 HOME TRAVEL 
 
 on Motor, Boat or 
 Rail. Ulsters, 
 Steamer Rugs, 
 Trunks, Bags, Trav- 
 eling Kits. 
 Elaborate or simple. 
 
 AT THE CITIES 
 
 ^C^^**'^ OR WATERING 
 PLACES. Dress, 
 Semi Dress and Negligee Garments ready 
 for immediate delivery. 
 Hats, Shoes and Haberdashery. 
 
 FOR TRAVEL AND PLAY OUT OF 
 DOORS. Norfolks and Knickerbockers, 
 Riding Coats and Breeches in all materials 
 from silk to Shetland Homespuns. Mack- 
 intoshes for motor or saddle work. 
 Golf, Polo and Fishing Gear. 
 
 Send for Illustrated Catalogue 
 
EUROPEAN train-men are 
 especially hard on luggage 
 
 Eternal slam-banging is the lot of 
 luggage that makes a 'round-the- 
 world trip. 
 
 It' s just that strain that Likly trunks 
 are built to stand. 
 
 Every Likly trunk has a foundation 
 box of bass-wood — the lightest, 
 sturdiest wood known for trunk- 
 making. Corner caps, slat protectors 
 and hinges are of special Likly 
 design. Each contribute to the 
 exceptional durability of the trunk. 
 
 And when you look inside it's the 
 good old story of * a place for 
 everything, and everything in its 
 place." 
 
 LIKLY 
 LUGGAGE 
 
 Steamer Trunks Gladstones 
 
 (plain or wardrobe) Suit Cases 
 
 Wardrobe Trunks Oxford Bags 
 
 Dress Trunks Kit Bags 
 
 —Luggage of all kinds 
 for all purposes 
 
 Write us for a catalogue and the name of 
 the Likly dealer in your town. 
 
 Henry Likly & Co., Rochester, N.Y. 
 
 NEW YORK SALESROOM, 38 EAST 21st STREET 
 
JUL 9 1912