AT FF.BMOY. I oridon : Printed b •'-. Spottiswoode, New-Street-Square i. S] ottiswoode, New-Street-Square v TO SIR RICHARD MUSGRAVE, BARONET, Of Tour in, County Waterford, WHOSE PATRIOTISM AND PERSEVERANCE SUCCESSFULLY CONTRIBUTED TO ACHIEVE FOR THE BLACKWATER INLAND NAVIGATION, W&\% OTorfc, ILLUSTRATIVE OF THE HISTORY AND SCENERY OF THIS NOBLE RIVER, IS, BY PERMISSION, MOST RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED. PREFACE. :>% L ^ a meetm g °f the British Association for the Advancement of Science, held at Cork in August, 1843, the author read a paper on the Statistics of the River Black water, the object of which was to aid the laudable endeavours of the Earl of Mountcashel and Sir Richard Musgrave in rendering this beautiful river available for the purposes of inland navigation. The essay having met with the approval of the meeting, the author was solicited to extend his inquiries ; and, embodying the substance of the essay, to prepare the present work for the use of strangers visiting the picturesque district of the Blackwater. Considerable encouragement was afforded him by the nobility and gentry of this country and Great Britain, in subscribing their names for copies ; and from many connected with the localities information of a very useful cha- racter has been furnished. For the kind assistance he has generally received, the author tenders his acknowledgments. His thanks are especially due to the Rev. James Mockler IV PREFACE. of Rockview, and the venerable and Reverend Matthew Horgan, the parish priest of Blarney ; to his legal brethren, J. D' Alton and J. K. O'Donoghue, Esqrs., for many valuable hints ; to the Rev. Samuel Hayman for much interesting matter respecting the ancient house of Raleigh ; and to Mr. Windele of Cork for the result of his antiquarian researches. The author more particularly acknowledges the kindness of his friend Dr. W. Cooke Taylor, in superintending the passage of the work through the press, and the hearty support afforded him from the commencement of the undertaking by Sir Richard Musgrave. 54. Blessington Street, Dublin, May 25. 1844. SUBSCRIBERS. Those marked with an Asterisk (*) are Subscribers for Large Paper Copies. *His Excellency Earl De Grey, Lord Lieutenant of Ireland. *Abercromby, Sir Robert, Bart, Birkenbog, Banffshire, and Fermoy, Ireland. Three Copies. * Armagh, the Dean of, Glenville, County Cork. *Anster, John, LL.D., Barrister- at-Law, Dublin. *Bandon, the Right Hon. the Earl of. *Bandon, the Right Hon. the Countess of. *Baldwin, Henry, Esq., Q.C., Assistant Barrister, East Riding, County Cork. *Barry, James, Esq., Ballyclough, County Cork. Two Copies. Bayley, Thomas Way, Esq., Barrister, Dublin. *Becher, Sir W. Wrixon, Bart., Ballygiblin, County Cork. *Bianconi, Charles, Esq., Clonmell. *Boyse, Thomas, Esq., Bannow. * Browne, Stephen, Esq., A.B., Devonshire Square, Bandon. *Butt, Isaac, Esq., Barrister-at-Law, and Alderman, Dublin. *Carbery, the Right Hon. Lord. Three Copies (one large and two small). * Campion, Rev. Robert S., D.D., Knockmourn Parsonage. *Campbell, Arthur J., Esq., Barrister, 13. Harcoui't Street, Dublin. * Carroll, Richard, Esq., Fermoy. *Clanchy, John Daniel, Esq., Barrister, 21. Grenville Street, Dublin. *Collins, Rev. D., C.R., Mallow. Coppinger, Francis, Esq., Gardiner Street, Dublin. * Corbet, E., Esq., Barrister, Dublin. Cuffe, Mr. D. B., Blessington Street, Dublin. *Curry, F. E. Esq., Lismore Castle, County Waterford. Curtin, Mrs. C, Carrigoon House, Mallow. VI SUBSCRIBERS. * Devonshire, His Grace the Duke of. *D' Alton, John, Esq., Barrister, 58. Summer Hill, Dublin. *Daly, Rev. 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C, Dublin. Lynch, Mr., Engineer Department, Fermoy. SUBSCRIBERS. * Mountcashel, The Right Honourable the Earl of, Moore Park, Kilworth. * Morpeth, Viscount. * Maley, Andrew J., Esq., Barrister, 9. Merrion Square South. * Martin, Richard Elmour, Esq., Barrister, York Street. *Mahony, Pierce, Esq. * MacCarthy, Florence, Esq., Barrister, Dublin, and Whitepoint House, Co. Waterford. *Miley, Rev. John, D.D., Metropolitan Chapel House. Moore, William, Esq., Moore Hill. * Morrogh, Edmond, Esq., Church Street, lfermoy. * Murphy, Rev. T., C.R., Fermoy. * Murphy, Jeremiah J. , Esq., Q. C, Fitzwilliam Street, Dublin. * Musgrave, Sir Richard, Bart., Tourin. Fifty Copies. * Nagle, James, Esq., Middleton, Co. Cork. Nagle, David, Esq., Cork. * Norreys, Sir Denham, Bart., M.P., Mallow Castle, Co. Cork. *0'Connell, Daniel, Esq., M.P. * O'Connell, Morgan John, Esq., M.P. * O'Donevan, Rev. M., R.C.C., Fermoy. * O'Flanagan, J. F., Esq., Barrack- Master, Fermoy. O'Flanagan, William Augustin, Esq., Fermoy. 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SUBSCRIBERS. * Steele, Thomas, Esq. Stock, Serjeant, M.P. * Stuart, De Decies, Lord, Dromana, Co. Waterford. Sugden, Sir E. B., Lord Chancellor of Ireland. * Taylor, W. Cooke, Esq., LL.D., London. * Tench, Gerald, Esq., Harcourt Street, Dublin. * Tighe, Robert, Esq., Assistant Barrister, Co. Limerick, Fitzwilliam Square. * Walsh, Francis Andrew, Esq. , Barrister, Cork. Walsh, Charles, Esq., Sunday's Well, Cork. Woodroffe, Charles Henry, Esq., Barrister, Ely Place, Dublin. SUBSCRIBERS. * Steele, Thomas, Esq. Stock, Serjeant, M.P. * Stuart, De Decies, Lord, Dromana, Co. Waterford. Sugden, Sir E. B., Lord Chancellor of Ireland. * Taylor, W. Cooke, Esq., LL.D., London. * Tench, Gerald, Esq., Harcourt Street, Dublin. * Tighe, Robert, Esq., Assistant Barrister, Co. Limerick, Fitzwilliam Square. * Walsh, Francis Andrew, Esq. , Barrister, Cork. Walsh, Charles, Esq., Sunday's Well, Cork. Woodroffe, Charles Henry, Esq., Barrister, Ely Place, Dublin. Lj££jfebM<£ ,„i EWES1 BLACBWATE AN D ITS VICINITY. HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE TO THE KIVER BLACKWATEB, IN MUNSTER. THE RIVER. There are few localities in the British Islands so rich in picturesque scenery, historical associations, and monumental remains, as the valley of the Blackwater ; and there is probably none possessing an equal variety of attractions for the geologist, the artist, the antiquarian, and the political economist. Difficulty of access, arising not from natural obstacles, but from want of conveyances, long secluded its beauties from all but such ardent Tourists as could dispense with the means and appliances of modern travel, who did not reject the clumsy market-boat because it wanted the luxuries of the trim steamer, and who could trust to their own legs, relieved by an occasional "lift" on an Irish car, over by-roads and bridle-paths which had never experienced the improvements of M'Adam. The exertions made to open this beautiful valley by roads along its sides and by a regular system of river-navigation have directed a large share of public attention to its varied attractions. The summer Tourists who come to explore this new region of picturesque landscape and mediaeval history ; the speculative travellers, who love to examine the natural resources of a country, and the patriots who are anxious that those resources should be developed to stimulate the industry and foster the prosperity of a noble race of peasantry, are naturally curious to know something of the ruined abbeys and mouldering castles which stud the entire range of the valley, interspersed as they are amid thriving towns and villages, and baronial halls and country-seats of a resident nobility and gentry. The stern magnificence of ancient ruins mingling with the luxurious elegance of modern architecture seems to require the aid of a friendly and familiar guide ; as such the author offers himself, his dearest wish being to direct the attention to the means HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE lavishly provided by nature to render Ireland prosperous — his best reward, the consciousness of having contributed in any way to advance its welfare. The river Blackwater, (in Irish, Awin Dubh,) is generally Awenmore or Avon- more, that is, "the Broad-water," by the native Irish. Spenser, however, in his Faery Queen, mentions it by a name which comes very near the Irish of its pre- sent appellation — " Swift Auniduff, -which of the Englishman Is named Blackwater." In a charter of James I. it is described as " the river Blackwater, called other- wise Broadwater ;" and it has been plausibly conjectured that the first name has reference to the darkness of the waters in the upper course of the river, and that the latter name is descriptive of the widening of the stream as it approaches the sea. In a statistical account of the river, read at the fourteenth meeting of the British Association in Cork, I stated that the name " Blackwater was probably taken from the limestone pebbles and black flints which during the greater part of its course form its bed ;" but in the discussion that ensued the Earl of Mountcashel attributed both the name and the colour of the water to the river having its source in a bog ; and this I find to be the opinion generally entertained in the country. As this work is designed principally for the use of Tourists, I shall describe the scenery on the banks of the river as it offers itself in the ascent of the stream. Before entering on the description of scenery, however, it will be convenient to enumerate in the order of descent the several tributaries which swell the stream of the Blackwater before it falls into the Atlantic. During its entire course, a distance of seventy-five miles, the Blackwater runs through a country rife with historic recollections, and diversified so agreeably as to offer an abundant field to the lover of the picturesque ; whether he delights in the quiet landscape of wood and water — sunny slopes crowned by tasteful man- sions — or prefers the bolder prospect of the rapid flood, foaming round the base of the rock sustaining the solitary Castle, the massive walls of which seem to mock time in their strength, and long destined to survive the names of those who reared them. At one place the banks are richly wooded — at another the river glides through a plain of corn and meadow-land — now beneath frowning moun- tains, steep and barren — anon midst fertile, smiling valleys. Memorials of the piety or chivalry of by-gone years are frequent along the river, and add to the natural beauty of the scene ; while populous towns, or quiet hamlets, mark the abodes of men. The source of the Blackwater is in a bog, near the boundaries of Cork and Kerry. It runs in a tolerably direct course from west to east, until it reaches Cappoquin, when it bends suddenly, and runs due south to the sea. In its pro- TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. gress it has many tributaries. At Drishane it receives the Fin Aion, or White River ; and- Bacool, a rapid mountain flood, which runs down from the hills of Muskerry. The Bantyre, having its source in the Boggra hills, joins it west of Clonmeen. The Clydagh, which also rises in the Boggra, runs into the Black- water, after forming the bounds on the east of the parish of Kilshanick. All these pour in their waters on the south side. On the north it receives the Oon Araglin, near the ruined church of Cullin, and close to Kanturk the Oon Dalue, or Double Rapid River; this washes thelbase of a hill yet bearing a mouldering ruin, called Castle M'Auliffe. At Bridgetown, a beautiful stream, the Awbeg, or Mulla of Spenser, joins. Nearly eight miles further, the Funcheon, a considerable river, falls into it underneath Mount Rivers ; and about half a mile further east, the Ariglen, at a place called Ballyderoon, having the same signification as Messo- potamia, i. e. the town between two rivers. These are its tributaries in county Cork. In the adjoining county Waterford, it unites with the Bride, the Finesk (in Irish Fion uisge, or Fairwater), the Owbeg, the Corish, and River Licky. The entire line of country through which the Blackwater glides is remarkable for scenic beauty, and it may afford some interest to the antiquarian to learn that this was one of the fair vales of Ireland, coveted by the wife of Heber, which produced the war ending in the loss of her husband's life and kingdom. Heber, or Hiber (from whom probably Ireland derived its name of Hibernia) and Heremon, were brothers, sons of Milesius, king of Spain. Having invaded Ireland, and defeated the Tuatha-du-Danaans, they divided the kingdom between them : Leinster and Munster were assigned to Heber, the elder, whilst Ulster and Con- naught became the portion of Heremon. There was also a third brother, Armegin ; and they were accompanied by a harper. Armegin was a poet ; and the bardic legends record the two kings cast lots which should have the poet, and which the harper, who accompanied the expedition from Spain. The chance gave the poet to Heremon, and the harper to Heber ; whence the reason assigned for the Northerns to excel in poetry, and the Southerns in music, to this day. * Moore, however, considers this brother Armegin to have had duties assigned without reference to either kingdom ; Armegin, according to him, was chief bard, who presided as minister over the respective departments of Law, Poetry, and Religion. He was also, according to O'Reilly, who wrote on the Brehon laws, Brehon, or lawgiver of the colony, likewise a poet and philosopher. In this appointment of arch-bard we have the origin and source of those metrical legis- lative enactments and chronicles that form so prominent a part in the early history of this country. Armegin wrote a poem, giving an account of his arrival at Inver-Colpa. It is preserved in the Books of Ballymote and Lecan, and in the D' Alton's Hist. Drogheda. HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE Book of the Invasion. He fell in battle. The power of bards is thus stated in the Book of Ballymote (f. 77.): — "A bard, whose only son had been killed in battle by the Lagenians, having continued for a full year after to satirize that people, brought fatalities upon them, so that neither corn, grass, nor foliage, grew for them during that year." Peace was not long permitted to the country under the new dynasty. A beau- tiful valley in the territories assigned to Heremon was the cause of the quarrel which arose. The particulars are thus stated by Keating, in his History of Ire- land : — " The occasion of the dispute was the possession of three of the most delightful valleys in the whole island : two of these * lay in the division of Heber Fion, and he received the profits of them ; but his wife, being a woman of great pride and ambition, envied the wife of Heremon the enjoyment of her delightful valley, and therefore persuaded her husband to demand the valley of Heremon ; and, upon a refusal, to gain possession of it by the sword ; for she passionately vowed she never would be satisfied till she was called the queen of the three most fruitful valleys in the island." Alas ! for mankind, that woman's gentle nature should be distorted and inflamed by pride and wild ambition, engendered by envy and jealousy. Female influence over men, when desire to please pre- dominates, is undeniably potent — all consideration, save the accomplishment of the wish of the loved one, is entirely lost sight of, and thus injustice is done — the most sacred ties are violated — most disastrous woes produced, to gratify the caprice or whim of some thoughtless and inconsiderate object of attachment. The refusal of Heremon to comply with the wish of his brother's queen, and part with his territory, led to a battle between them on the plains of Giesiol, where Heber lost his life, leaving Heremon sole possessor of the kingdom. The late Mr. Inglis in his accurate work, entitled, "Ireland in 1834," thus adverts to the scenery of our river : — " We have had descents of the Danube, and descents of the Rhine, and the Rhone, and of many other rivers ; but we have not in print, as far as I know, any descent of the Blackwater ; and yet with all these descents of foreign rivers in my recollection, / think the descent of the Blackivater not surpassed by any of them. A detail of all that is seen in gliding down the Blackwater from Cappoquin to Youghal would fill a long chapter : there is every combination that can be produced by the elements that enter into the picturesque and the beautiful ; dee}) shades — bold rocks — ver- dant slopes — with the triumphs of art superadded, and made visible in magni- ficent houses and beautiful villas, with their decorated lawns and pleasure-grounds." In Mr. and Mrs. Hall's interesting and valuable work lately published, " Ireland, its Scenery, Character," &c, the river is thus mentioned : — " From the source * These were the valley of the Blackwater and the Golden Vale in Tipperary. TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. of this fine river, in Slieve Lougher, one of the Kerry mountains, to its mouth at Youghal, it passes through a large extent of country, nearly every portion of which is closely and often painfully associated with the history of Ireland. The banks are for the most part wooded ; at times the river runs through fine, fertile, and productive valleys ; at others it winds at the base of or between huge and barren mountains, but everywhere affording pleasure, at least to the lovers of the picturesque. Every now and then the interest of the scenery is enhanced, and the records of the neighbourhood are illustrated by some ruin of castle or church ; very many of the strongest of the former, and the most famous of the latter, lying broken and covered by weeds in the graceful glens or toppling cliffs that skirt the sides or overhang the river." I might go on adducing similar notices of the scenery I have undertaken to describe, but prefer the Tourist to judge for himself, and mention the foregoing as instancing the gap in our topographical literature which I have laboured to fill. Mr. Inglis was correct in his remark. There was no description of the Black- water in print until the present ; and if my account satisfy the public, that my childhood's rapid river competes in attraction with the Rhine, the Rhone, or the Danube, my labours will be sweetly repaid. The second notice shows how much history is mingled with scenic description. Compiling this part was quite a labour of love. Surrounded by the fine collection of Irish works, which my father's national taste placed at my command, I felt not the hours passing while I gleaned the materials for my volume. Some errors may have been committed ; but they ought to be pardoned : they are not wilful, for I spared no pains to insure correctness, and examine every authority bearing on my subject. The grassy court — the mossy wall — Vault — barbacan, and turret tall ; With weeds that have o'ergrown them : Though silent as the desert air, Yet have their eloquence, and bear Mortality upon them. Yes ! these are talismans that break The sleep of visions, and awake Long silent recollections ; That kindle in the mental eye Romantic feelings long gone by, And glowing retrospections. — Anon. HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE YOUGHAL. Youghal, the seaport where the Blackwater loses itself in the ocean's waves, is town of great antiquity and importance. It is a borough, returning one member to the imperial parliament, and contains a population of about 10,000. This place, formerly called Ochill, a woody spot, is supposed to have been built in a forest, and named by the first settlers Phoenicians, from the appearance it presented as they sailed by it.* This town was incorporated, in the year 1209, by King John. In 1224, Maurice Fitzgerald founded a Franciscan monastery in Youghal. The occasion of its establishment is said to have originated in the following circumstances : — The chieftain was building a castle in the town, and while at work on the foundation, the workmen, on the eve of some festival, came and begged a piece of money from him to drink his health. The chieftain ordered his eldest son to give it ; but he, instead of obeying his father's direction, abused the workmen, which his father was so concerned at, that, instead of carrying on the castle, he erected a house of Grey Friars, took upon himself the habit, and died here in the eightieth year of * Smith's Hist. Cork, vol. i. p. 101. id. 109. TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. his age, a. d. 1256. This is believed to have been the first Franciscan friary in Ireland. In 1317, Sir Roger Mortimer, Lord Justice, landed here, with thirty-eight knights, and in a short time forced Edward Bruce to retreat from this neighbour- hood, and seek refuge in Ulster. The town suffered much in the Avars of the Earl of Desmond ; for, in 1579, he plundered it, and carried off the property to his castles of Strancally, and Lisfinny, co. Waterford. The Earl of Ormonde, re- ceiving intelligence of this attack, sent a ship from Waterford with troops, which entered the town, but, being overpowered by the forces of the Seneschal of Imo- killy, most of them were killed, and the remainder escaped with difficulty. The devastation to which the town was exposed left it quite desolate, not a man staying in it except one poor friar ; but on the retreat of the insurgents, in 1580, the inhabitants were invited to return, a garrison of 300 men being left for their protection. The mayor, who, before the incursion, had perfidiously refused to receive an English garrison, promising to defend the place to the last extremity, but who, instead of keeping his promise, yielded the town to Desmond, was taken, and hanged at his own door. In 1582, the Seneschal of Imokilly assaulted Youghal, but was repulsed, with the loss of fifty of his men. In 1641, it again became the scene of war. The Earl of Cork shut himself up in the town, and defended it against the insurgents at his own expense, with 1000 foot and 60 horse, in addition to which, the towns- men maintained fifteen companies. The besieged received succours in 1642, Sir Charles Vavasour, with his regiment of 1000 men, landed with some difficulty. The earl held sessions here soon after, at which the insurgent chiefs were indicted for high treason. The Earl of Cork died the year after in this town. In 1644 the native Irish were expelled, and their property seized. In 1645 it was again besieged by the Earl of Castlehaven, but the defenders held out until Lord Brog- hill arrived, and the siege was raised. When Cromwell visited Youghal, in 1649, the inhabitants embraced the cause of Parliament, and the Lord Protector made it his head-quarters during the winter. After the siege of Clonmel he returned, and embarked here for England. By letters patent under the privy seal, dated February 14. 1660, their estates and franchises were restored to such of the inhabitants, being " innocent Papists," who had been deprived of them during Cromwell's usurpation. On the 2d August, 1690, Youghal surrendered to King William III., who marched southward after the battle of the Boyne. The import- ance of taking Youghal appeared during the continuance of the siege of Limerick, as it was a check upon the garrison of Cork, and the wandering troops called Rapparees. On the 9th August, the governor of Youghal marched to Castle Martyr, where he defeated a large number of men with a few troops, and seized the castle. In 1696, the townsmen of Youghal, having manned a boat with forty seamen and soldiers, took a French privateer that lay at anchor under Cable HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE Island. In 1711, the corporation of Youghal transmitted a loyal and affectionate address to Queen Anne. In 1789, his late Majesty William IV., then Prince William Henry, visited Youghal, as commander of the Pegasus ; and on the occasion of honouring the corporation with his presence at dinner, was presented with the freedom of the borough. When the first Earl of Cork purchased from Sir Walter Raleigh the grants he had obtained of the monastic and other lands forfeited in Elizabeth's reign, he adopted the policy of colonising the towns in the vicinity of the Blackwater with settlers from England, chiefly from Gloucestershire, Somersetshire, and Devon- shire. Of these settlers, the greater part had adopted Puritan principles, which exposed them to ecclesiastical penalties at home ; they were in the great civil war the most decided enemies of the Stuarts, and it was the timely adhesion of Youg- hal to the parliamentary cause which relieved Cromwell from the difficulties in which he was placed by the obstinate defence of Clonmel. Like most of the Puritans, those who settled in Youghal were firm believers in witchcraft, and tradition preserves the memory of several unhappy persons burned at the stake during the presence of this delusion. Glanvil's curious collection contains the trial of one of the Youghal witches, Florence Newton ; and it is one of the most singular exhibitions of credulity and barbarity recorded in the melancholy annals of the witch-mania. Some of the peculiarities of puritanism are still to be found in the families descended from the original Puritans ; but the most palpable monu- ment of such rigidity is the venerable old church, the interior of which when last repaired was stripped of its collegiate character, and assimilated as much as possible to the severe plainness of the conventicle. Many of the followers of Cromwell and of William III., attracted by similarity of sentiment, in the families of the previous colonists, settled in or near Youghal, which with Bandon was long regarded as the great stronghold of what was called the Protestant interest in the south of Ireland. Several of the early settlers had been companions of Raleigh in his expeditions against the Spaniards, and there are some faint traces of their having kept up their old connection with the buccaneers. During several generations the spirit of naval adventure was rife in their families, and during the wars in the first half of the last century several privateers were fitted out and manned from Youghal, the crews of which were celebrated for their desperate bravery, which set all odds at defiance. Even so late as the last French war, Youghal sailors were distinguished in the navy by their readiness to defy the perils of storm and battle. The bay of Youghal, included between Knockadoon and Ardmore Head, is a noble expanse of water, but affords no protection to ships, except the harbour of Youghal. That harbour, as already mentioned, is strongly barred, and the depth of water on the bar has decreased within the period of ascertained history ; for we TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. find that in 1 649 several parliamentary frigates entered the harbour, and were moored opposite the town. It would be dangerous for vessels of such size and bur- then to attempt a passage at present. To the eye of the geologist the harbour presents evidences of having undergone still greater changes, and the traditions of the people and the Irish names of several localities singularly confirm the conclusions to which the deductions of science point. The long strand to the south of the town is a submarine forest, and peat-bog, worn by the sea, at some distant but not very remote age, speaking geologically, and the silent encroachments of ocean still con- tinue ; so that if some barrier, similar to the dykes of Holland, be not constructed, there can be little doubt but that at some future time the sea will win the flat bog by which it is at present skirted, and the waves roll to the very foot of the range of hills beyond. We have seen vast quantities of peat, or, as it is called in Ireland, turf, raised for fuel on this strand, between high-water and low-water mark. Trees of immense size have been also dug up, and on some of these, nuts have been found in such a state of preservation, that on opening them the kernel was distinctly perceptible. A very perfect nut-tree was recently dug up, close to the low- water mark, and on it not merely the fruit but the leaves were perfect in every thing but colour. The horns of the Irish elk, and the bones of other animals, have been dug up amid the trees on this part of the strand, thus affording indis- putable evidence of the encroachments of the ocean. Old people state, that within their recollection, the remains of some buildings might be seen under the water when the tide was very low. Finally, there is a tradition that Capel Island, which is now about a mile distant from the head-land of Knockadoon, was once so close to it that it could be reached by stepping-stones ; but this is a tradition too vague to warrant founding any argument on it. Opposite the town of Youghal there is a projecting spot of sand called the ferry- point, which is traditionally said to have extended at one time half way across the river, and which undoubtedly has been within the memory of man much more extensive than it is at present, persons now alive remembering it to have been a large and profitable rabbit-warren. Higher up than this is the creek of Pilltown, from which a flat valley, in many places as low as the sea-level, runs to Whiting Bay, and this bay is still called by an Irish name, which signifies " the mouth of the river." The narrow valley running from Pilltown to Whiting Bay is incon- testably of alluvial or lacustrine formation, and in the part of Whiting Bay immediately adjoining Ardmore, it is evident that the sea would now inundate a portion of the valley, but for a high bank of shingle which forms the strand. The positive testimony of an ancient author singularly confirms the theory that the Blackwater, or at least a branch of it, anciently discharged itself into the sea in the vicinity of Ardmore, to which Whiting Bay closely adjoins ; for Necham says — 10 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE Urbem Lismore pertransit flumen Avenmore. Ardmore cernit ubi fervidus scquor adit ; which Dr. Smith, more literally than poetically, translates, By Lismore town the Avenmore doth flow, And Ardmore sees it to the water go. Ptolemy mentions the river by the name of Daurona, but gives no particulars respecting its course and termination. Taking all these circumstances into consideration, and comparing them with the present aspect of the country, we are led to the following conclusions, which will be found to agree in their results with the accounts given by geologists of the changes in the embouchures of several rivers in America. The broad of Youghal, or wide space into which the river expands below Rhincrew and above the town, must be regarded as originally a lake bounded by wooded swamps ; indeed it retains much of the character of a lake at the present day. From this the water flowed to the sea by two channels, of which the larger, or at least the more navigable, flowed through the valley that now ends in Whiting Bay, and hence arose the ancient importance of Ardmore, now an insignificant village, but once so important as to have been a bishop's see. The closing of the mouth of the Whiting Bay branch was probably gradual ; but it may have been accelerated by some violent storm, or other convulsion of nature, and the river then worked out for itself a wider channel through the Youghal branch, at the same time a greater tidal action was brought to bear on the swampy forest, which is partly submerged be- neath the sea, and partly covered by the sand and shingle of the long strand. This change took place previous to the English invasion ; but when Henry II. came to Lismore, Youghal had not yet been founded, or at least was a place of such little consequence, that no one appeared to offer its allegiance to the monarch. The town was probably founded by the Geraldines, and other Anglo-Norman adven- turers, and colonised from Bristol, with which city it has always continued to be intimately associated. Its great value to the Anglo-Normans was the facility which it offered them for obtaining aid from England ; and on this account they established a light-house, the ruins of which still exist, under the name of the Round Tower ; and richly endowed a nunnery, under the condition that the nuns should see that the light was regularly maintained. This condition of tenure was instituted as an appeal to the religion and the gallantry of the native Irish, who were deterred from injuring the light which guided reinforcements to the invaders by a reluctance to offer violence to consecrated females. We have been induced to dwell at some length on the formation of this harbour, because we know of no other instance in which an interesting geographical problem is so curiously TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 11 blended with an obscure but most important period of history. The subject is far from being exhausted, and we trust that it will yet be more fully investigated by persons connected with the locality who may have an opportunity of combining historical research with personal examination. The town, within the last half century, has extended on all sides beyond the former limits : the ancient walls are removed, and few traces remain to show where they once stood. A slob having been reclaimed by the corporation, the Mall house and adjacent streets are built upon it. The principal street is about a mile in length, divided by the Clock Gate into north and south main streets. Many of the old houses have been modernised— some yet show their antiquity by their gable ends fac- ing the street, and pointed stone doorways. There are two good hotels, Merry's and Campbell's, both comfortable, and charges mo- derate. This coast abounds with fish; herrings, whiting, hake, cod, and shoals of sprats. It affords considerable amusement to the visitor to ramble by the rock- bound beach in the morning, and see the fishermen hauling in their laden nets. The town is much frequented in summer as a bath- ing-place, having the advantage of a fine smooth level strand, reaching nearly three miles along the western shore. There is a fine promenade along the Cork road. There are not very extensive accommodations for families, otherwise more would resort thither ; and it is hoped some enterprising persons may build lodges, which undoubtedly would well remunerate the outlay, and not only cause an influx of visitors, but induce many to become resident, and enjoy the beautiful scenery of the Blackwater, now thrown within their reach. In addition to cheap and abundant markets, the visitors have the advantage of fine air, and an agreeable neighbourhood. The view of the town is taken from Muckridge House, the tasteful and hos- 12 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE pitable mansion of Richard Albert Fitzgerald, Esq., to whom, and his accom- plished lady, I am indebted for facilitating my researches in their neighbourhood. The view of the town from Muckridge House is picturesque. In front is a Castle of modern erection ; but when associated with the recollections of the bloody wars fought in every direction, partakes of that indefinable feeling of reverence with which we regard the remnants of other times. Close beside is the bay, into which the Blackwater pours its waters. " A favourable circumstance to its navi- gation," observes the Rev. Horatio Townsend, in his Survey of the County Cork, " as the discharge of so great a body of water must necessarily exert sufficient force to preserve the mouth from any overwhelming excess of sandy accumula- tion." Now I should be inclined to regard this as, in no small degree, the cause of the bar of Youghal, which presents an obstruction to the entrance of the harbour — the rush of the river on the one side, and flow of the tide, collecting a mass of sand and mud which crosses the bay. There have been some experiments made by Mr. Francis Jennings, a distinguished scientific gentleman, a native of Cork, the result of which leads to the possibility of removing a considerable portion of the bar ; and this once effected, Youghal would speedily rival Cork or Waterford as a seaport. The facility of entering the harbour would be greater than at either of those cities : there is not, as at Cork, the river to ascend, and descend when sailing out. There is no delay incurred by waiting for the tide. The passage across to Bristol could be made in some hours less time than at present from Cork ; and should, as is likely, a steamer find sufficient encourage- ment to take this station when the traffic following the opening of the Blackwater navigation arises, all the articles of groceries, and other imports, will come direct here, instead of being procured from merchants in the neighbouring ports. The preference of Cork, as a port, leaves Youghal chiefly a trade in coal, and export of grain and butter. It carries on a considerable trade in manufacturing brick, the earth here being peculiarly adapted to that article, with which it supplies Cork to a great extent ; also earthenware of a coarse description. Our sketch shows the town snugly ensconced under a pretty wooded hill, and, from the low situation, appears quite springing from the sea. The long wooden bridge connecting it to the Waterford side, is higher up ; and between this and the town lies a vast marsh, which, if His Grace the Duke of Devonshire were to regard his own interest, he would most assuredly give every facility, nay, proffer encouragement to have taken in and reclaimed for building purposes. I understand a proposal was made to that effect, which His Grace declined acceding to, unless he was to have the portion nearest the town for his share ; and as this was likely to be that first reclaimed and most valuable, the proposers felt they would be worse off after all the expense necessarily incurred : so the matter drops. It is to be hoped some bonus may be offered by the Duke, as excellent sites for houses TO THE RIVER BLACKTTATER. 13 and streets would be obtained ; and every effort should be made to extend the town along the margin of the bay, as the steep hills prevent its extension in any other direction, and bathing accommodation is on a limited scale at present. Before entering the town by the Cork 'road, are seen the remains of a strong building, over the sea. A tower is in good preservation. It is said to have been a light-house, which its lofty position seems well adapted for. There are several relics of ancient devotion ; one of the finest ruins is that of the Collegiate Church, represented in Mr. Creswick's view. The College of Youghal was founded in 1464, by Thomas Earl of Desmond ; this church was repaired, at a later period, by the Earl of Cork. The foundation charter, and several endowments pre- sented to it, were confirmed by Popes Julius, Paul, and others. It was suffered to enjoy its revenues for some time after the Eeformation. Nath. Baxter Warden, about 1595, finding its tenure precarious, and resolved to anticipate the Government, caused the college reve- nues to be disposed of, and demised them and the house to Sir Thomas Norris, then Lord President of Minister. They were afterwards Walter Raleigh. The ancient church of Youghal was the finest specimen of the pointed English or Norman style of architecture in Ireland. It consisted of a nave, transept, and choir, with a square belfry or tower on the north side, about fifty feet high, which is still in good repair. The choir is now roofless and deserted ; its magnificent eastern window, glorious even in decay, fills the mind with melancholy when seen as the stranger enters the churchyard ; and this impression is not removed by the condition of that part of the ancient building still preserved in repair for divine service, namely, the nave and a portion of the ancient aisles. In the middle of the last century, when the old roof was repaired, the person employed as architect was so utterly incompetent that he quite destroyed the original design ; at the same time the painted ceiling of the interior was removed, and a uniform coat of white-wash substituted in its place. Pews and galleries were built according to the taste, or rather the caprice, of the several parishioners, and though several given in trust for Sir 14 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE alterations have since been made, they have been all further departures from the type of the original architecture, so that the interior is now an anomalous com- pound of a collegiate church and a meeting-house. The south division of the transept, which still retains the name of Chancel, is the Mausoleum of the Boyles ; and it is much to be wished that the heir of their vast domains would bestow some little attention on the repair and preservation of their monuments. The northern division of the transept is disfigured by the most perverse specimen of Vandal deformity to be found in Christendom. A square vestry-room, with a naked roof, has been erected inside the church, cutting off several fine monuments of ancient families ; one of which, and that the most curious, is consigned to the coal-cellar of said vestry -room. The communion-table is placed in a recess projecting into the ruins of the ancient choir ; and this modern addition is built in a style at utter variance with the original structure of the church, and is ornamented with mural tablets, containing the creed, the commandments, &c, which neither harmonize with the old structure nor with the modern changes made in it. Nevertheless, the people of Youghal are proud of their old church, and have reason to be so in spite of all their perverse efforts to spoil it. The interior of the deserted choir is now nearly filled with tombs, but these are almost hidden in the rank vegetation and tangled weeds which have been allowed to spring up unheeded in the neglected sanctuary. We doubt if there is in any ,M*bE •QU^lAl (CHU3ES.C: TO THE TITER BLACKWATER. 15 other part of Britain, possessing such an architectural gem as this choir, where it would have been permitted to remain in so deplorable a condition as in Youghal. The tombs offer much to interest the antiquary, who, like Old Mortality, loves to recover the half-defaced in- scriptions which tell the tale of by- gone days. There are many such around this ruined choir. Let us rescue a few from oblivion. Here is the altar tomb on the north side of the choir. There is little to mark the occupant — his name alone — Hie jacet Thomas Fleming. That, only that, to single out the spot, By that rememher'd, or by that forgot. No date — no trace — by which his lineage might be guessed, or his deeds recalled. Another, with some characters which I could not deci- pher, bears a Runic inscription ; the date is tolerably clear, 1517 ; the remainder much defaced. It is supposed to be the tomb of a mayor of Youghal. The one sur- mounted by a head over the cross, is called Ronayne's tomb. He was also a mayor in Queen Elizabeth's reign. There is a large tomb to the Boyle family, dated 1619. This is in a chapel much exposed to the weather. An epitaph to Sir Richard Villers, Lord President of Munster, who died in 1626, is quaint and terse : — Munster may curse the time that Villers came, To make us worse by leaving such a name, Of noble parts, as none can imitate But those whose hearts are married to the State ; But if they press to rival him in fame, Munster may bless the time that Villers came. \\t Placet Jletwmg The churchyard of Youghal is one of the most picturesque burying grounds in the three kingdoms. It occupies the slope of a hill, rising gradually from the 16 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE church to the old town-wall, which is here in tolerable repair, and is judiciously planted with trees and shrubs. Some years ago walks were cut through the ground, and nights of steps erected to facilitate some steep ascents. Unfortunately, some fine old monuments were displaced during this operation, and the slabs of the tombs were used as flags to construct the steps. Some curious inscriptions, which we vaguely remember, have been thus irrecoverably lost, and among others one beginning, " Here lie the bodis of my 2 grandmothers, maiden names, Fox and Chubb." The author of the inscription gave no clue to his own name, and no date. The Infirmary and Fever Hospital, built on a part of the Town-wall, look into the churchyard, which they sadly deform, and near them is a tower erected for the purpose of astronomical observations, by the late Dr. Dartnell, who was ardently attached to the cultivation of physical science. The view of the river, and the opposite coast of the county of Waterford, from the terrace laid out at the upper side of the churchyard, is very extensive ; the broad of the river has all the appearance of a lake enclosed by hills, and suggests strongly the idea of a time when it found its way to the sea by a course different from the harbour of Youghal. Adjoining the churchyard, and only separated by a fence and trees, is a truly interesting mansion of the genuine Elizabethan building, which once sheltered the TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 17 brave and enterprising Sir Walter Raleigh. In the garden opposite he is said to have planted the potato, which he brought from South America ; and the person left to take care of the grounds, imagining that the apple which grew on the stalk, was the part to be used, gathered it, and not liking the taste, neglected the roots, till the ground being dug afterwards to sow other grain, the potatoes were discovered there to have vastly increased. Tobacco is also reported to have been first in- troduced to Ireland from this port. The house is now in fine preservation, and well worth a visit ; it has a wainscotting of fine Irish oak, with carved panels, and the chimney-piece in the drawing-room is elabo- rately sculptured with gro- tesque figures. In the garden is a group of yew trees, here represented, said to have been planted by Raleigh. From a number of beautiful myrtle- trees about the house, it owes its present name, Myrtle Grove ; and its courteous owner, Colonel Faunt, permits the stranger to visit freely >I 3^s g =^ ^jjgi this dwelling of other days. Though no one had a keener appreciation of the charms of a country life, and unruffled repose from the turmoil of a court life, than Sir Walter, as is evidenced by his writings, a life of quiet and seclusion was by no means adapted to his ardent temperament. There is an instance of the extreme foresight of Raleigh mentioned in Smith's History of Cork. In 1602 he disposed of all his Irish estates to the Earl of Cork ; and, supposing his family would seek to disturb the deed of sale, as indeed was afterwards the case, Raleigh, when on the eve of his last voyage to the West Indies, addressing his son Walter, said, " Wat, you see how nobly my Lord Boyle hath entertained me and my friends, and therefore I charge you, upon my blessing, if it please God that you outlive me, and return, that you never question the Lord Boyle for any thing that I sold him ; for if he had not bought my Irish land, it would have fallen to the Crown, and then one Scot or other would have begged it, from whom neither I nor mine should have any thing for 18 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE it, nor such courtesies as now I have received." This allusion to the fate of his property, in case it passed into the power of the Crown, enables me, ere I leave this remarkable man, to introduce the following notices of him and Lady Raleigh, which have strict historical facts for their foundation. I selected them from " Passages in the Life of Sir Walter Raleigh," or Ralegh, for in his autograph he omits the letter i. These were written by me some years back, and they have never before been published. PASSAGES FROM THE LIFE OF SIR WALTER RALEIGH. Nothing could exceed the admiration excited by Raleigh's conduct on his trial. Having been engaged in the prosecution of the Earl of Essex, it made him very unpopular ; but he now " behaved himself so worthily, so wisely, and so tem- perately, that in half a day the mind of all the company was changed from the extremest hate to the extremest pity." The two who brought the news to the king were Robert Ashton and a Scotsman. The first said, " That never any man spoke so well in times past, nor would do in the world to come." The other said, " Whereas when he saw him first he was so led by the common hatred, that he would have gone a hundred miles to have seen him hanged ; he would, ere he parted, have gone a thousand to have saved his life." His manner is thus de- scribed: — "To the lords, humble yet not prostrate; towards the jury, affable but not fawning, rather showing love of life than fear of death ; towards the king's counsel, patient but not insensibly neglecting ; not yielding to imputations laid against him in words : and it was wondered that a man of his heroic spirit could be so valiant in suffering." Raleigh now addressed himself to prepare for the transition from this world unto life everlasting. By the king's desire he was waited on by the Bishop of Winchester, who found him perfectly reconciled, and in a Christian frame of mind, resigned to his approaching end. He was aware that no permanent happiness can be expected here, and every ill should be encountered with patience. The words of Churchyard came to his mind: — What greater gryfe may come to any lyfe Than after sweete to taste the bitter sower, Or after peace to fall at warre and stryfe, Or after myrth to have cause to lower, Upon such props false Fortune bylds her tower — On sodayne chaunge her flitting frame be set, Where is no way for t' escape her net. TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 19 In this frame he addressed the following beautiful letter to his wife*: — " You shall now receive, my dear wife, my last words in these my last lines. My love I send you, that you may keep it when I am dead ; and my counsel that you may re- member it when I am no more. I would not by my will present you with sorrows, dear Bess, — let them go into the grave with me, and be buried in the dust. And seeing that it is not the will of God that ever I shall see you more in this life, bear it patiently and with a heart like thyself. " First, I send you all the thanks which my heart can conceive, or my words can express, for your many travails and care taken for me ; which, though they have not taken effect as you wished, yet my debt to you is not the less. Secondly, I beseech you, for the love you bear me living, do not hide yourself many days after my death ; but by your travail seek to help your miserable fortunes, and the right of your poor child. Thy mournings cannot avail me, — I am but dust. Thirdly, you shall understand that my land was conveyed, bona fide, to my poor child. I trust my blood will quench their malice that have thus cruelly murdered me, and that they will not seek also to kill thee and thine with extreme poverty. To what friend to direct thee I know not, for all mine have left me in the true time of trial ; and I plainly perceive that my death was determined from the first day. Most sorry I am, God knows, that being thus surprised by death, I can leave you in no better estate. But God hath prevented all my resolutions, — that Great God that ruleth all in all. But if you can live free from want, care for no more — the rest is but vanity. Love God, and begin betimes to repose yourself on him ; and therein shall you find true and lasting riches, and endless comfort. For the rest you travail and weary your thoughts over all sorts of worldly cogitations, and sit down by sorrow in the end. Teach your son also to love and fear God while he is yet young, that the fear of God may grow up with him ; and then God will be a husband to you, and a father to him — a husband and a father that cannot be taken from you. "When I am gone, no doubt you shall be sought by many — for the world thinks that I was very rich. But take heed of the pretences of them and their affections, for they last not but in honest and worthy men ; and no greater misery can befall you in this life than to become a prey, and afterwards to be despised. I speak not this, God knows, to dissuade you from marriage. As for me I am no more yours, nor you mine. Death has cut us asunder ; and God has divided me from the world, and you from me. I cannot write much. I hardly steal this time while others sleep ; and it is also high time I should separate my thoughts from the world. Beg my dead body, and either lay it at Sherborne, if the land con- Tytler's Life of Raleigh, p. 267. 20 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE tinue, or in Exeter church, by the side of my father and mother. I can say no more ; — time and death call me away. " The everlasting, powerful, infinite, and omnipotent God, who is goodness itself, the true life and true light, keep thee and thine ; have mercy upon me, and teach me to forgive my persecutors and accusers, and send us to meet in his glorious kingdom. My dear wife, farewell ! Bless my poor boy ; pray for me, and let my good God hold you both in his arms ! Written with the dying hand of sometime thy husband, but now, alas ! overthrown. Yours that was, but not now my own, — "Walter Raleigh." The subsequent history of Raleigh is well known. He was reprieved, but con- fined in the Tower ; where his passion for study, his vast mental resources, the knowledge of countries and their inhabitants he had learned by his travels, all fitted him to find solace within himself in such an habitation. His hours were free from interruptions — no excitement disturbed his repose. He wrote during his imprisonment The History of the World, published in 1614. His faithful wife shared his solitude, though her peace of mind never recovered the blow his conviction and sentence had given her. She reminded him of his friend Shak- speare's lines : — the pale cheek, Like a white rose on which the sun hath look'd, Too wildly warm, (is not this Passion's legend ?) The drooping lid whose lash is wet with tears, A lip which had the sweetness of a smile, But not its gaiety — all these did hear The scorch'd footprints sorrow leaves in parting. Had he been of a less impatient temperament, in the enjoyment of his lady's society, his books, and the society of a few friends, he might have almost forgotten he was a prisoner. But disguise it as thou wilt, yet imprisonment is hard to bear ; and to one whose habits prompted incessant activity, confinement was peculiarly irksome. But fortune had another blow for him. The deed by which he con- veyed his favourite seat Sherborne on his son had been referred for examination to Chief Justice Popham, who presided at his trial ; and he held, from the omission of some important technical words, it was invalid. Robert Carr, the favourite of James, was easily persuaded to take advantage of this flaw to solicit the estate. Raleigh lost no time in remonstrating with the favourite, as appears in the following letter * : — * Ty tier's Life of Raleigh, 274. Cayley, vol. ii. p. TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 21 " Sir — After some great losses and many years' sorrows (of both which I have cause to fear I was mistaken in the end), it is come to my knowledge that your- self, whom I know not but by honourable fame, hath been persuaded to give me and mine our last fatal blow, by obtaining from his majesty the inheritance of my children, lost in the law for want of a word. This done there remaineth nothing with me but the name of life ; despoiled of all else but the title and sor- rows thereof. " And for yourself, sir, seeing your fair day is but now in the dawn, and mine drawn to the evening, your own virtues and the king's grace assuring you of many favours and much honour, I beseech you not to begin your first building upon the ruins of the innocent, and that their sorrows, with mine, may not attend your first plantation. I have ever been bound to your nation, as well for many other graces as for the true report of my trial to the King's majesty, against whom, had I been found malignant, the hearing of my cause would not have changed enemies into friends, malice into compassion, and the minds of the greatest number then present into the commiseration of mine estate. It is not the nature of foul treason to beget such fair passions ; neither could it agree with the duty and love of faithful subjects, especially of your nation, to bewail his overthrow who had conspired against their most natural and liberal lord. I therefore trust, sir, that you will not be the first who shall kill us outright, cut down the tree with the fruit, and undergo the curse of them that enter the fields of the fatherless, — which, if it please you to know the truth, is far less in value than in fame, — but that so worthy a gentleman as yourself will rather bind us to you (being, sir, gentlemen not base in birth and alliance) who have interest therein. And myself, with my uttermost thankfulness, will ever remain ready to obey your command. " Walter Raleigh." This letter had not the desired effect. The sweet retreat of Sherborne passed into the hands of the profligate Somerset, the lands being declared forfeited to the Crown. It was in the gloomy chambers of his prison in the Tower that Raleigh felt the soothing cares of his loved wife. She never indulged in any unseasonable burst of grief ; on the contrary, preserved the same calm unruffled sweetness that marked her life while preferring the secluded lawns of their sylvan Sherborne to the pomp and gaieties of the court. She would not leave her husband, even though her approaching confinement demanded better care and attendance than the state prison afforded. Her love for her husband made her forget herself: and a second son, Carew, was born in the Tower. It was her delight to talk with Raleigh over every honourable means of saving his life, and though convinced in his own 22 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE mind of their inefficacy, he could not deny her at least the gratification of assenting to her requests. He humoured all her plans, conferred with her on the best mode of putting them into execution, and addressed an humble petition to the King for mercy, which, as he expected, produced no favourable result. Still Lady Raleigh was undaunted. Under pretence of placing her babe at nurse, and taking her eldest son Walter with her, she left the Tower, resolved to go to the King in person, and plead for her husband's life. She drove straight to Whitehall, in which James occupied apartments, super- intending alterations then going on in the building ; and, as her carriage slowly approached the stately gate, she thought of the time she first dwelt in those walls. The eldest boy clapped his little hands with admiration as they drew nigh the gate, said to have been designed by Holbein. It was built with bricks of two colours, glazed, and disposed in a tesselated fashion. An embattled tower was on each side. On each front were four busts, of artificial stone. The mind of Lady Raleigh reverted to the time when, with a light heart and girlish brow, she attended Queen Elizabeth as maid of honour, and won the heart of the famed Sir Walter as Elizabeth Throgmorton. Fearful that the King might refuse to see her if she was known, she addressed a strange lord in waiting, and entreated him to give her opportunity of speech with the King, and merely to announce her as a "gentlewoman praying an audience ;" and holding the infant in her arms, her little boy timidly catching her skirt, she prayed to be admitted into the ante-chamber. The nobleman, a good-natured Scot, had no suspicion who she was, was struck by her noble air, and touched by the deep anguish of her expressive coun- tenance : — "Be of good cheer, leddy ; be of good cheer. King Jamie has a blunt speech, but a kind heart," and he permitted her to follow him. Leaving her and the children in the ante-chamber, the lord in waiting went to seek the King. Lady Raleigh soon heard the loud voice of the sovereign, for the door stood partly open. " A lady wants speech with us, did you say ? Is she alone ? " " She is, your majesty, but not quite." " Weel said, Douglas," cried the King, with a loud laugh ; '•' alone, and not quite — how mean ye, laddie ?" " She has twa bairns with her," replied the Lord Douglas. " A lady with two bairns," repeated the King, in amaze ; " What's her name ? " " I dinna ken, my liege ; she merely said, a gentlewoman." " I like not mystery. What say you, Carr ; maun I see the lady and the bairns?" — Lady Raleigh bent her ear anxiously to catch the reply, on which her hopes hung. Her heart half failed her when she recollected he thus interro- gated was the suitor for her loved Sherborne, the monarch's favourite. " I think," TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 23 replied the haughty minion, " the lady who claims audience, yet fears to present a honest name, is not worthy of so great a favour." " Vera well, Carr," replied James ; " my ain thoughts to a certainty." " I'll answer for it, your majesty," interposed Douglas, warmly, as the King was about to decline the interview, " that whatever name she bears is an honest one." " Ha ! by'r word but she must be weel favoured to have smitten the Douglas of a sudden. Saw ye this fair incognita before ?" " Never, on my salvatie," answered Douglas. " Nay, then, look not so sternly, man ; thou hast so raised my curiosity, that albeit her presence may be dangerous, I will have speech with the fair one. Stand by me, Carr." Lord Douglas re-appeared in the ante-room, and the lady and the children en- tered the presence. The room in which James and his favourite were seated was one of the new apartments just completed by Inigo Jones. The ceiling was painted by Rubens, and represented the king seated on his throne, turning with horror from the God of War, and other of the discordant deities, and as if giving himself up to the Goddess of Peace, with her smiling attendants, Commerce and the Fine Aits. The Venetian windows suffered the light to steal through scantily, but the magnificent furniture every where around was worthy of the ruler of a vast empire. James was sitting at a chess-board having as his antagonist his idle favourite ; the latter dressed in the very perfection of the fantastic costume of the period. Before the King the noble lady knelt, her little boy mechanically kneeling by her side ; the infant, at the sight of the King, buried his head in his mother's bosom. The lady broke silence : — " You see before you, sire," said she, in a low tremulous voice, " one whose grief hath caused to forget all difference of rank. I am lost to a sense of all but that high prerogative which the Almighty hath conferred on kings, and which I thus humbly implore your majesty to exercise for the safety of my husband, whose now most wretched, but once happy wife, kneels with her little ones before you." " Who is thine husband, lady ? " demanded James. " Sir Walter Raleigh." " Hah ! proud traitor," shouted the King, starting as though stung by a ser- pent, and overturning the table, chess-board and men rolled round the room. "No," answered the lady, with dignity; "you never had a truer subject. Do justice to his faithful heart. Think, on the word of thy mouth depends whether his spirit, chafed by long imprisonment, must find a premature grave in the dun- geon, if not on the scaffold. Though he bears much not to disquiet me, I see his loved form pining for freedom. Nay, for thine own sake, do not lose a servant 24 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE who will approve himself faithful when others of cozening speech may prove untrue." " Madam," said the King roughly, " I maun tak heed not to be cozened by your fair words. How can I pardon one who is linked with those that said of me and my bairns" (James kept looking at the children as he spoke) "there never would be peace in England until the fox and his cubs were taken off." Lady Raleigh rose up, and the blood mantled her previously pale cheeks : it was but the hectic of the moment, and an ashy paleness succeeded. She clasped her boy's hand. " Alas ! " said she " there can be no hope for my noble spouse, when every idle slander finds credence in the royal ear. Thou knowest, sire, those words were never spoken, and but the whisper of those who cry down fame higher than thine own. Yet do not let my errand be quite bootless. If I cannot move you to grant his liberty, let the sight of these dear ones so draw your mind to compassion as to spare the escheat of his seat Sherborne, and take all the rest. Leave not these children deprived alike of their parents, for I will not long be with them, and likewise of their paternal property." The King looked irresolute ; at last, fixing his eyes on Carr, and beholding his glance returned in an upbraiding aspect, his only reply was — "I maun ha' the land — I maun ha' it for Carr." " Is there no hope ?" said the lady, turning to him whom she justly regarded as the sole obstacle between her and the place she loved best. " You are said to have much power with the King ; will you not speak for me ? You will not, I am sure, deprive us of a spot endeared by the recollection of by-gone hours of hap- piness ? What ! not one little word ? To you even the memory of this scene must bring sorrow. Oh ! if you would treasure up the recollection of a good action — if you would pour a sweet drop in a bitter bitter chalice, yield to my prayers. Restore us dear Sherborne ; and if it be the will of Him to chastise us in our sins, let my Walter leave his family with a house to shelter them, and his last prayers shall bless thee." " I never interfere with the King's business," coldly replied the haughty Carr. " Then to you alone I appeal," said the lady, again dropping on her knees be- fore James : — " And oh ! as you deal with me and mine, may you and yours find mercy. I will not rise till I am heard. Alas, sire, your illustrious ancestor was in the sore strait my husband is now in ; you have known," she added, while tears, fast and heavy, streamed down her cheeks, " one whose beauteous head was subjected to the block. Think how you would have prayed for her life if you had been of age to act. — You, perchance, can call back something of the grief which her untimely fate brought on. Yes ! yes ! I see you understand me. You would have prayed as I now pray, and begged as I now beg. Let my noble husband TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 25 live ; restore to my children my "Walter ; and, as thou dealest forth pity to us, do thou receive mercy from on high." A new auditor had joined them unbiddingly, who was much affected at the so- lemnity of the lady's prayer. His countenance bespoke a noble nature, and his eyes were filled with tears. " Oh ! father," said he, grasping the King's sleeve, "lam sure you cannot refuse the lady. What place does she ask for ? I will give her mine." " Hush ! hush, Henry ! don't tease me now ; go to Buchanan — get thee gone, sir," said the King, angrily. The boy's tears fell fast as his father led him out of the room. James was met at the door by Lord Cecil — he started as the kneeling group met his sight — the king and he conferred together. " All I can say is, that I continue the reprieve," said the King ; " so away wi' ye, lady, and as for the land, I maun have it for Carr." " Then may the Almighty God deal with Carr and the rest of those who have wrought this woe upon us," said Lady Raleigh ; " unto him I commit them : — in the hands of a supreme power I leave them ; for the Lord sayeth, ' Vengeance is mine, and I will requite it.' " So saying, she left James to amuse himself, over- seeing his workmen erecting a pile, from which his own son was to step from the throne to the scaffold. While repairing the pannels of the drawing-room at Myrtle Grove, some years since, a cupboard, or small recess, concealed by the wainscot, was disclosed. It contained some old books ; one very valuable, in boards literally, the covers being oak, covered with leather, and bound by large clasps, now in the possession of Matthew Hayman, Esq. The work consists of two parts. One in black letter, with coloured initials, contains events from the time of Moses to the days of Saints Peter and Paul, and appears to have been printed in Mantua, 1479. The other, an ecclesiastical History of Peter Comester, by John Schallus, Professor of Physic, at Hornfield ; and is dedicated to Prince Gonzales. This part was printed at Strasburgh, 1483. In connection with this ancient residence, I may mention the family of Hayman, to whom it has belonged for some time. Robert of Gloucester, in his curious old Chronicle, gives the origin of this name, deriving it from jgtfgtttOtt, " a high man." In 1662, Samuel Hayman, of the old Somersetshire family of that name, came over to frelancl. He purchased this dwelling from the second Earl of Cork : it was then called the College House of Youghal. It was founded originally, in 1464, by Thomas Earl of Desmond, and consisted, as we have seen, of a number of sing- ing-men ; in 1586, it became the property of Sir Walter Raleigh, and was his re- 26 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE sidence while at Youghal. When Sir Walter quitted Ireland, it was repaired and remodelled in 1602 by Sir George Carew, Lord President of Munster, who left it, as far as exterior is concerned, in nearly the same state that it is now — a good specimen of the English "great house" in Queen Elizabeth's time. Raleigh was attainted about the year 1604, and Sir Richard Boyle had contrived, previous to the last voyage of the unfortunate Raleigh, to get a dead bargain of his Irish estates — three seigniories and a half for a sum not exceeding a thousand pounds. Sir Richard Boyle, evidently a very shrewd man, procured, in the patent con- firming the sale of these lands, special mention of the College of Youghal, and on the marriage of Sir Richard's daughter to Sir Jeffrey Fenton, in 1605, the revenues of the College were settled as the lady's jointure. Sir Richard had pre- viously managed to get his own kinsman, Dr. Richard Boyle, appointed warden of the house ; and induced the warden and fellows to make over to him and his heirs the College revenues for ever, on payment of twenty marks yearly. In 1634, the Lord Deputy Viscount Wentworth summoned Sir Richard to come and appear at Dublin Castle and answer some heavy charges that were brought against him ; on which occasion, observes Dr. Smith, " Sir William Reeves, then Attorney- General, exhibited a very severe bill against him." A fine of fifteen thousand pounds was awarded to the Crown, and a portion of the estates vested in the King. Lord Wentworth was shortly afterwards created Earl of Strafford, and Boyle first Earl of Cork. The Earl of Cork died in 1643 ; he was succeeded by his son, from whom Samuel Hayman purchased. On the death of Samuel, in 1672, this house, with other property, vested in his son John, who represented the town of Youghal in Parliament for ten years, 1703 — 1713. John had no issue by his marriage with a beautiful girl, named Hannah Crockford ; and when he died, in 1731, his brother Samuel got the place, which he enjoyed as long as he could. His son John succeeded to it, in due course, in right of being eldest born ; but, dying a bachelor, his next brother succeeded. This was a clergyman, the Reverend Atkin Hayman ; and it was he that changed the name of the place, and gave it the appellation it bears at present — Myrtle Grove. He went the way of all flesh, dying in April, 1793; and the register of his burial has, after the record of that event, the simple words, "A good man," — higher praise than a marble monument. On his death the property passed to his eldest son, the late Walter Atkin Hayman, Esq. ; and the house is now let to Colonel Faunt, who kindly permits visiters to inspect this dwelling, so interesting from its associations with past days. Matthew Hayman, Esq., in whose possession the work referred to now is, resides in the town of Youghal. His son, the Reverend Samuel Hayman, curate of Glanworth, is a clergyman of the Established Church, of great literary and classical attainments ; one of the principal contributors to our national periodical literature ; and though his sacred calling, and the retiring TO THE RIVER BLACK WATER. 27 disposition ever indicative of true genius, has withheld him from authenticating the numerous contributions of his vigorous mind by his name, those acquainted with his style, which is graceful and natural, awakening a sympathy in the subject between the writer and the reader, and while interesting the mind instructing the heart in lessons of deep feeling and solemn thought — require no index to point out the article of one whom I shall always feel proud to number among my friends, and for whose ready aid and cheering encouragement of my work I shall ever feel a grateful recollection. ARDMORE. Passing over the highland opposite Youghal is seen the top of a round tower, claiming some notice as seen from the river, though otherwise not coming within h* my limits. This is Ardmore, and well worth a visit. By the ferry the distance is about four miles over a mountain road. Several pretty seats are scattered near the shore, among which may be particularly mentioned Woodbine Hill, the handsome mansion of — Roch, Esq., commanding a splendid prospect. Whiting Bay, of which we have already spoken, is near this road ; and close to it Grange, a bathing residence of one of the best of Irishmen, Sir Richard Musgrave, Bart. The alluvial valley to which we have referred, as probably the old channel of at least a branch of the river, is very fertile, and produces better crops of corn than any part of the surrounding districts ; indeed, all the country between the ferry and Ardmore is well cultivated ; the cottages of the peasantry have every appear- ance of cleanliness and comfort, while the peasants themselves evince a readiness to give information to strangers, and to enter freely into conversation with them ; 28 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE which experience has taught us to note as a sure mark of healthy relations between the landed proprietors and the tenantry. Ardmore possesses some attractions as a bathing-place, and is capable of much improvement. There is a constant tradition that the Phoenicians once had an establishment here, and worked the lead-mines in the neighbourhood, which, however, have long ceased to be productive ; tracings of the workings, however, still remain. But the chief objects of curiosity in Ardmore are its ecclesiastical remains, which are placed on the top of a rocky hill overlooking the village and bay. They consist of a round tower, ruined abbey, and some smaller buildings, the use of which cannot in all cases be ascertained. An episcopal see was erected here by St. Declan, and confirmed by the synod of Cashel, held by St. Patrick, a.d. 448. St. Ultan, the successor of Declan, was abbot of the monastery as well as bishop of the see ; and after the title of bishop of Ardmore fell into desue- tude the president of the monastery held the dignity of a mitred abbot. The tower, perhaps the most perfect of this kind in Ireland, is built of hewn stone, carefully fitted and cemented. It is distinguished from many I have seen by having four projecting rings or belts round it at intervals, as if to divide it into stories or separate compartments ; each diminishes in circumference as it ap- proaches the top. The conical cap is considerably shaken ; but yet retains its position. In Smith's History of Waterford mention is made of its being sur- mounted by a curiously-shaped cross, but of this no trace now exists. The height is calculated to be ninety-one feet; the entrance fifteen feet from the ground, and the circumference of the base forty feet. In each story is a window, and the top one contains four windows, opposite to each other, larger than those beneath. In Ryland's Waterford the antiquarian reader will find all existing hy- potheses on the subject of Round Towers pleasantly displaced, without however the poor enjoyment of a more reasonable substitute than this : — "I shall offer as a conjecture that the round towers had some connection with the superstition which prevailed here at the period of the introduction of Christianity into Ireland, and that its early propagators endeavoured to avail themselves of the prejudices of the people, by erecting their places of worship in the vicinity of the ancient religious monuments." The church, close by, was a splendid edifice, richly sculptured. There are yet evident on the west gable twelve bas-relief figures, each under a small Saxon arch. Mr. Croker, in his " Researches in the South of Ireland," has given a very full account of this interesting spot. These figures, he supposes, were intended for the twelve Apostles. Underneath these are the Baptism, a Sacrifice, the Judgment of Solomon, with figures of our First Parents, and the Tree of Know- ledge between them. Near at hand is St. Declan's bed, a small stone hut with one window, per- TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 29 mitting a scanty ray of light into the interior. Here are the remains of a tomb, over which is a rude stone cross. Many virtues are attributed to the clay which received the remains of the saint ; and this causes the country people to take it hence in such numbers that they have excavated to a considerable depth. Archdall, in his Monasticon, mentions another religious edifice. This is Thompel a Deshert, or Temple of Desert, which I presume to be that referred to in the following agreeable notice in Eyland's Water ford: — " The ruins of another church are to be seen on the projecting headland which forms the western termi- nation of the bay. This beautifully situated building, which combines a romantic site with other interesting associations, is in a most ruinous condition, having few traces of ornament or peculiar architecture to illustrate its early history. It is one of those structures which the common people love, probably because it has nothing to recommend^ it to strangers, and because its very worthlessness has preserved it entirely to themselves. It is remote from any public road or thorough- fare, and seldom visited except by those whom a secret instinct attaches to the place. Still, though fallen and in ruins, this temple is not deserted by the class of persons for whose use it was originally intended : a few fragments of broken arches give note of former magnificence, while vessels intended for religious uses, a clear stream, and a well, reputed holy, draw together the descendants of the ancient worshippers." A close examination of these ruins will reward the labour of the architectural antiquary, for it is probably the oldest ecclesiastical ruin in Ireland, and appears to have been the structure erected in the time of St. Declan. On the strand below, St. Declan's stone is pointed out, which, accord- 30 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE ing to tradition, swam hither miraculously from Rome, bearing the saint's vest- ments, and a bell for his church. The stone lies shelving on the point of a rock, and on the patron-day of the saint, numbers of persons may be seen creeping under this stone, to which, and also to St. Declan's well in the neighbourhood, miraculous powers in the cure and prevention of disease are attributed. Several of those circular intrenchments attributed to the Danes are found in the vicinity of Ardmore, and we heard some vague accounts of antiquities having been dug up in their vicinity. There are also traces of two ancient castles, but neither history nor tradition throws any light on the persons by whom or the purposes for which they are erected. Were the neighbourhood of Ardmore systematically examined, and excavations made in promising places, there is every probability that relics of antiquity would be discovered which would throw considerable light on the condition of Ireland previous to the Anglo-Norman invasion. The vicinity of the raths or Danish forts particularly deserves investigation, and also the ruins of the more ancient church. ASCENT OF THE BLACKWATER, FROM YOUGHAL TO CAPPOQUIN. Commencing our ascent of the Blackwater, we leave behind the town of Youghal, and soon lose sight of the gap beyond, where the broad Atlantic heaves its billows on the bold strand leading to Clay Castle. The scenery around teems with rich- ness and picturesque beauty. Our steamer, the Star, for which we are indebted to the patriotic zeal of Sir Richard Musgrave, whose enterprising mind resolved to navigate the Blackwater at any pecuniary risk, confident he was thereby serving his native country, shoots merrily through the wooden bridge. This bridge was erected after a design by Mr. Nimmo, under the provisions of an act of parliament passed in 1828. It is formed of Munich fir, and is 1787 feet in length, 22 feet wide within the rails, and cost over 30,000/. This bridge passed, we leave Muckridge House to the left, ensconced among the luxuriant trees ; and now every bend in the course presents a succession of charming scenes, perpetually presenting new beauties as they are disclosed by the shifting our position with respect to them. The river is here fished by means of small boats, somewhat resembling canoes, and not unfrequently a rosy-cheeked peasant girl is the sole mariner, crossing from one side to the other. A high rocky hill breasts the water ; crumbling ruins crown the summit. These are all that remain of Rhincrew Abbey, reputed to have been a preceptory of the Knights Templars, which, on the suppression of that order in tins country, formed part of the grant made in 1586 to Sir Walter Raleigh, and subsequently sold by him to the Earl of Cork. The ruins are very extensive, consisting of a variety of apart- TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 31 ments, and the building when complete contained a quadrangle flanked by towers. The site was well chosen for defence, commanding the hill on three sides. A noble view of the bay is seen from the tower _-^=- in front. We have very scanty materials for the history of the Knights' Templars that settled in Ire- land; but there is reason to believe that the preceptory at Rhincrew was very richly endowed, for castles belonging to its agents are found in many parts of the counties of Cork and Waterford, which were erected both to protect their vassals and to enforce due payment of rent and feudal service. Some old peasants in the neighbourhood of Rhincrew averred that there were formerly some statues among these ruins, and they described them as representing the well- known costume of the Templars, the open helmet, cross-handled sword, and crossed legs, which intimated service in Palestine. They attributed their destruction to the Iconoclast fury of Cromwell's followers, and the Puritans who succeeded them, but in some cases the peasants themselves have lent aid in the work of destruction. Higher up the little stream which runs into the Blackwater, below Rhincrew, stands the baronial castle of Kilnatoora, which until lately was one of the most perfect specimens of a Norman fortified residence in Ireland. A farmer in the neighbourhood demolished a great part of the upper story, and a beautiful stone window, to get materials to build an addition to his house, and only desisted when he found that, owing to the strength of the cement, it would be cheaper for him to obtain stones from a neighbouring quarry. Within an hour of our having heard this account from one of the persons who had actually taken part in this barbarous demolition, we met another peasant who ascribed the breach to Cromwell's cannon, and who was quite indignant when he found that we were in possession of what he did not deny to be the real state of the case. On the abolition of the order of Knights' Templars, it had been stipulated that 32 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE their preceptories, commanderies, and estates, should be transferred to the knights of St. John of Jerusalem, or, as they were afterwards called, the Hospitallers. We have not been able to discover whether any part of the lands belonging to Rhin- crew were assigned to this, the rival order of the original possessors, for we have found no traces of the Hospitallers in the south of Ireland ; the priory of St. John in Waterford, which has indeed been sometimes described as a foundation of their order, was really a monastery of Benedictines. In the Maltese records, however, we find Irish knights holding high rank, and entries of money received from estates belonging to the order in Ireland ; and there is also evidence to show that the lands of Rhincrew were not seized by the Crown previous to the general dissolution of monasteries, after which they were granted to Sir Walter Raleigh. There is a tradition that spacious apartments, now choked with rubbish, were excavated by the knights in the rock on which the preceptory stands, and that from thence subterranean passages led to secret sally-ports at different parts of the river. The ruins were too dilapidated to admit of such researches as would test the truth of this tale, and we fear that there is not enough of antiquarian enter- prise and enthusiasm in the neighbourhood to stimulate to so toilsome and ex- pensive an investigation. On the hill between Rhincrew and Temple-Michael, there are traces of some field intrenchments of considerable extent ; but tradition and history are silent as to their nature or object. Leaving Rhincrew, we steer into a broad and placid lake, to which the artist has done much justice; and here the first object which attracts notice is the square- embattled tower of Temple-Michael, contrasting well with the graceful church TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 33 near, while the handsome residence of Thomas Carpenter, Esq. forms a pleasing object in the foreground. Little is known of this castle : it was probably erected by the Templars to guard the channel here, for the river formerly encompassed an island called Dar Inis, or Molana, now united to the main land. The extensive ruins on this island now opened to the sight are frequently visited by the stran- gers who went to Youghal, from which they are distant about three miles. The road is very good, and several handsome seats are in this neighbourhood, particu- larly Cherrymount, the seat of Captain Parker, situated in a rising ground; Wood- view, the seat of Colonel Uniacke ; and Garryduif, the seat of H. Garde, Esq. On the right bank of the river, as we ascend from Youghal, we see Rockview and Bayview, with Woodbine Hill, and Monatray in s Ardsallagh the distance. Nearly opposite Rhincrew House, where resided the late Dominick Ronayne, Esq., M.P. The Abbey of Saint Molanfide, on the island just men- tioned, is in the superb demesne of Richard Smith, Esq., whose mansion, Ballinatra, is contiguous. This Abbey was founded in 501, by Saint Molanfide for canons re- gular. He was first abbot ; and a statue, representing him in the flowing robes of his order, is placed on a pedestal in the cloister. An inscription bears the name of the lady whose taste introduced so appropriately this excellent re- presentation of the Monk of Old — " Erected by Mrs. Mary Broderick Smith, a. d. 1820." The Abbey must have 34 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE been of great extent ; even now it presents a most venerable appearance, clad in a luxuriant garment of ivy. The remains of Raymond le Gros, comrade of Strongbow, are said to be here in- terred ; and a funeral urn, with an in- scription to his memory, and bearing the year of his death, 1186, is placed underneath an arched window. The splendid mansion exposed to view as we glide onward is Ballinatra, the seat of Richard Smith, Esq., who has a large property in this country. The house is a large commodious mansion, the grounds extensive and well laid out, and many men are daily employed in keeping the grounds and gardens in perfect order. The present proprietor married the Hon. Harriet St. Leger, daughter of the late, and sister to the present, Viscount Doneraile. His bro- ther, John Rowland, Captain of the 6th Dragoon Guards, married the Hon. Catherine Alice, daughter of the late eminent Chief Justice Abbot, Baron TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 35 Tenter den, sister to the present lord. His brother Henry married the only daughter and heiress of Charles Widenham, Esq., Castle Widenham. His sister Penelope married His Royal Highness the Prince of Capua, brother to the King of Naples. His sister Gertrude married Lord Dinorben, of Kimnel Park, county of Denbigh. Adjoining Ballinatra is a wooded glen, Glendyne, with a most romantic drive by the side of a brawling rivulet. This leads to a Roman Catholic Chapel and a National School. In the valley of Glendyne a rocky basin, not so perfect now as it was some years ago, is kept constantly full by a stream falling from a cliff above, the superfluous water dripping over the sides of the basin. Tradition states that there were sorcerers who could raise the shadows of futurity on the surface of this fluid mirror ; and it required but little exertion of the credulous imagination to give form and pressure to the varying shades which indistinctly appear on its dark waters. Similar legends are found attached to these natural rock basins in all parts of Europe, confirming Warburton's assertion, that hydromancy is one of the most widely spread forms of divination. He thinks, from the name of the place where the witch resided who invoked Samuel — "Endor," i.e. "perpetual foun- tain," — that she had intended to consult the shadows on one of those natural mirrors ; and that this will explain her astonishment when a spirit appeared instead of a shade. An old man in Glendyne, had some faint recollection of a habitation which described a fair lady going to discover in the rocky basin the fate of her lover who had enlisted in the Irish brigade ; she beheld him falling in battle, and soon after died of a broken heart. On the day of her funeral intelli- gence arrived of her lover having fallen in some skirmish, nearly at the time when she beheld the fatal vision. Near the place where the river Lickey falls into the Black water is Clashmore, which, on the intermarriage with Miss Power, became the property of the Earl of Huntingdon. Loughtane is near the river. At some distance to the left are ruins which give abundant evidence of the extent and durability of the building. This is Strancally Castle, one of the fortresses of the Desmonds. From the Castle to the river a passage was hewn through the rock of consider- able length and breadth, and pretty deep. From these ruined towers is procured an extensive view of the surrounding country, and many a stronghold of the princely Desmond, wherein the various members of that powerful race resided with their martial retainers. Ye Geraldines, ye Geraldines, how royally ye reign'd O'er Desmond wide, and rich Kildare, and foreign arts disdain'd ; Your sword made knights, your banner waved, free was your bugle call ; By Glyn's green slopes and Dingle's side, by Decies and Youghal, 36 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE What gorgeous shrines, what Brehon lore, what minstrel feasts there were In and around Maynooth's tall keep, and palace fill'd Adare ; But not for rite or feast ye stay'd, when friend or kin was press'd, And foeman fled when " Crom a boo * " bespoke your lance in rest. How strongly do those feudal relics, whose grey and moss-grown battlements, " Plead haughtily for glories gone," --*~*«£§**9 remind us of the days of chivalry and romance, when, by some deed of strife and reckless valour, the knight strove to recommend himself to the object of his choice, and, by piercing the mailed breasts of his compeers, actually won with his sword the heart of his ladye-love ; when a glance of her bright eye fired the soul of the warrior, and feats of arms were rewarded with a smile. It is curious to contrast those rude times with our more artificial days of society, though we may not regret their decline. Young ladies are not wont now to prize their lover as the Indian girls theirs, in proportion to the number of scalps they display, or the knights discomfited while asserting their charms in tilt-yard or battle. They seek now for other qualifications ; and though the passion of love is not so fierce as of yore, there is no doubt it is as strong, and perhaps more enduring. Tradition relates that the cave at this Castle was used by the tyrannical earls of Desmond as a prison for persons having fortunes in this part of the * The motto of the Fitzgeralds. TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 37 country, whom they frequently invited to the Castle to make merry, and when in their power confined to this dungeon, where they suffered their captives to perish. There is a hole cut through the rock in the manner of a portcullis, down which the dead bodies were cast into the river. It is called the Murdering Hole. One person by good fortune escaped out of this dungeon, who informed the govern- ment of these horrid practices, and both the Cave and the Castle were soon after- wards demolished. The Cave is entirely laid open, and half the Castle b]own up, the powder having split it from top to bottom ; and large pieces of the wall were thrown to a considerable distance by the force of the blast. * The river is very deep at this place. The right bank is barren and destitute of timber, while the left is magnificently wooded, especially round a strikingly picturesque and beautiful castle lately erected, and called after its old neighbour, Strancally Castle, seat of John Keily, Esq. The contrast between the embattled towers, rising majestically over the flood, with the shattered walls and crumbling battlements of the old castle, is very striking. The view from the demesne is very fine. The junction of the Bride and Blackwater takes place in a valley opposite ; and the several streams afford distinct vistas of forest, and water bearing boats and vessels, some of considerable burden, to and from Youghal to Tallow, Seward, Top. Hib. Strancally. 38 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE while our steamer en route to Cappoquin diversifies the craft. The Castle is built in the Gothic style, and is surrounded by an extensive demesne. It lies about five miles from Tallow, and is quite an ornament to that part of the country. Leaving behind this stately pile, we reach an extensive range of steep bank, well wooded, and shortly a venerable mansion peeps high above the flood. Dromana, the seat of Lord Stuart de Decies, is one of the most splendid edifices on the river. The house is built on rocks, that rise almost perpendicularly from the right bank as we approach Cappoquin ; and the demesne extends a consider- able distance by the water-side, stretching away far into the inland, and diversified by lawn and woodland. The mansion has latterly undergone much repair ; but the description given by Lady Morgan in a work * written when on a visit in this vicinity, during the summer of 1817, is still tolerably correct. " The ground was divided into plots up to the door of the mansion, which stood on a rocky height over the river. On the opposite shores ascended a range of well-wooded acclivities, whose summits mingled with the level of the horizon. Of the original building, nothing now remained but a square ivy-clad tower, called Desmond's Castle, flanking a less imposing edifice, built in the reign of James I. Florence Macarthy, vol. i. p. 201. TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 39 This wing was in good preservation. The precipitous declivities which swept down from the rocky foundation of the house to the river had been cut into terrace gardens, a fashion still observable at the seats of the ancient nobility of Munster." This is the reputed birthplace of the old Countess of Desmond, who, at the age of 140 years, crossed the Channel, and travelled to London, to demand and obtain from James I. the restoration of her jointure, of which the attainder of the Earl of Desmond deprived her. Her death is said to have been caused from falling off a cherry-tree, into which she had climbed to get at the fruit. In Seward's " To- pographia Hibernica," Dublin, 1795, this is noticed as a seat of the Earl of Gran- dison, who had an estate of about 6000/. a year in this county, and stated to be built on the foundation of an ancient castle, formerly the chief seat of the Fitz- geralds of Decies. The castle, with all its furniture, was burned by the Irish. Near at hand, at Affane, a "bloody battle" was fought, on 1st February, 1564, between the Irish Guelphs and Ghibellines, the Earls of Ormond and Desmond, in which the latter had 300 men killed, and he himself, the chief Geraldine, taken prisoner by his ancient, implacable foeman, the Butler. When the victors were carrying the fierce chieftain in triumph on their shoulders from the field, the leader of the Ormond party rode up, and tauntingly inquired, " Where is now the great Earl of Desmond ? " Though faint, and a captive, the wounded chief indignantly replied, " Where but in his proper place ! still on the necks of the Butlers." On a reconciliation being effected between these great rivals, they shook hands : an aperture was cut in an oak door, through which they per- formed that greeting, each fearing to be poniarded by the other ! In Smith's " History of the County of Waterford," p. 53., he mentions the im- provements at Dromana. The gardens are situated on the side of a hill which hangs over the river, where is a noble terrace, affording a prospect up to Cappo- quin. To the south the river is hemmed in with high hills, covered with wood : at the foot of the gardens is a neat bastion, the vaults under which serve as a boat-house. The adjacent deer park is a pleasant spot of ground, lying contiguous to the seat, and a handsome lodge erected for the keeper. Through this park is a noble avenue, and the entrance near Cappoquin is a costly fanciful structure : there is a wooden bridge over the Finnisk river. This river forms a navigable branch from the Blackwater ; and if the plan suggested by Mr. Walker, county surveyor of Waterford, be carried into effect, continuing the canal already made from Dungarvon to Knockmoan, a distance of four miles and a half, it would open the communication with the sea-port of Dungarvon. The title Lord Stuart de Decies, so worthily bestowed on the noble owner of Dromana, is a very ancient one. In " Ryland's History of Waterford " we find it stated the lords of Decies derived their descent from James, the seventh Earl of Desmond. In 1561, a descendant of this nobleman was created " Baron of Dromany 40 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE and Viscount Desses," and dying without issue, his possessions (the title becoming extinct) descended to his brother, Sir James Fitzgerald, who removed from Cap- pagh to Dromana, where he died in December, 1581. We next find in " Burke's Peerage," vide note, that the Hon. Edward Villiers, in 1677, married Catharine, daughter and heiress of John Fitzgerald, Esq. of the Decies, lineally descended from James, the seventh Earl of Desmond, and who dying, left his eldest son John heir! to his grandfather, as fifth Viscount Grandison. His lordship was created Earl of Grandison 11th September, 1721. He was great-great-grandfather of the present noble lord, Henry Villiers Stuart, Baron Stuart de Decies, of Dromana, within the Decies, county of Waterford. The cherry is said to have been first domesticated in this country at Dromana, having been brought hither from the Canary Islands by Sir Walter Raleigh. That distinguished stranger had large possessions in this country, and, in truth, land must have been accounted of somewhat less value than at present, when we are informed by the author of " Re- searches in the South of Ireland " — " The lands of Affane are said to have been given by Garratt Fitzgerald for a breakfast to Sir Walter Raleigh." When seen from the opposite bank, the entire view is very fine. A slight portion of the old building remains, toppling the cliff. " Brown in the rust of time — it stands sublime, With overhanging battlements and towers, And works of old defence — a massy pile, And the broad river winds around its base In bright unruffled course." Vast tracts of wood stretch over the expanse the eye traverses, and the distance is closed by a well-defined range of mountain. High over all soars Knockmele- down. Its elevation is somewhere about 2600 feet above the level of the sea. Mr. Ecles, a gentleman who resided many years at Youghal, and wrote some tracts on electricity, selected as his last earthly tenement the top of this mountain, where he lies buried with his dog and his gun. At a little distance from the river, on the road between Clashmore and Cappo- quin, is the neat village of Villierstown, founded by the last Earl of Grandison, with the hope of introducing the linen manufactory into the south of Ireland, by establishing here a colony of Protestant weavers. Beyond this general fact, we could learn nothing of the experiment, not even to what extent the original plan was acted upon, or when it was abandoned. There is, however, an average congregation every Sunday at the village church ; and the incumbent, the Rev. Philip Homan, has the happiness of being equally beloved by his Protestant and Catholic parishioners. This distinction is shared by his neighbour, the Rev. Mr. Mackesy, rector of Clashmore ; and it is gratifying to add, that when the Protestant clergymen were reduced to difficulties some years ago, by the refusal to pay tithe, TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 41 that the Catholic peasantry in Mr. Mackesy's neighbourhood cut down and carted home his corn, without asking or accepting any reward. The national schools also in this neighbourhood have been productive of the most beneficial results. The English language is invariably spoken by the rising generation of peasantry ; and the series of books published, under the direction of the National Board, has conveyed innocent amusement and healthful instruction to families where the only literature previously known consisted of licentious songs and seditious ballads. The geologist will find this portion of the country rich in all that interests him. Where the house is situated, and down to the river, the rock is clay slate, while the summit of the hill bounding the domain is fine white sandstone. In a hollow in the lawn is a curious white clay, like fine sugar, which is said to be of use in glass factories. Traces of copper ore are discernible, and lead has likewise been turned up. On the left bank there is a substratum of micaceous red sandstone ; indeed, red sandstone is most prevalent here. Higher up is Tourin, the seat of Sir Richard Musgrave, Bart., to whose spirited and persevering exertions we are indebted for the opening the navigation of this beautiful river. The castle here belonged formerly to the Roches, who forfeited their estates in the rebellion, 1641 ; and has the advantage of a splendid view along the river and scenery of Dromana. The present is the third baronet. The first Sir Richard Musgrave was created a baronet of Ireland, according to " Burke's 42 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE Peerage," 2d December, 1782, with remainder to the issue male of his father. He filled the office of collector of excise in the port of Dublin, and wrote some poli- tical works. Dying without issue, the title, according to the limitation, fell to the father of the present worthy and public-spirited baronet. There are some small islands now met with, adding to the variety of the scenery. The hills tower aloft, and houses, rolling up their smoke, announce a town. CAPPOQUIN AND MOUNT MELLERAY MONASTERY. We have reached Cappoquin, pleasantly situated in an angle on the north bank. This place is of much antiquity, and tradition relates of a castle built here by the Fitzgerald family. In the war of 1641, it was garrisoned by the Earl of Cork ; and the following year Lord Broghill, on his return from the relief of Knockmourne, with about 60 horse and 140 foot, defeated a strong party of the insurgents. In July, 1643, General Purcell, having assembled his army at this place to besiege Lismore, ravaged the surrounding country. In 1645 the castle was taken by Lord Castlehaven. The Earl of Cork built a bridge here, and an act passed 16 & 17 Car. 2. for building a new bridge. The country about this town is highly improved. Close by is Cappoquin House, the seat of Sir Richard Keane, Bt. of Belmont, Lieutenant Colonel of the Waterford Militia. His father was created a baronet in 1801, and dying in 1829, the title devolved on the present baronet. His brother John so distinguished himself in the army, that he was created Baron Keane in 1839. The house is a handsome mansion of hewn stone, built in a well- wooded demesne. The view commands the course of the river for a considerable distance, and is closed by the wooded hills of Dromana. There is a neat church, and commodious Roman Catholic chapel here, an excellent national school, and another school, under the care of the Cork Society. The principal street contains some good houses and shops. Close to the town is Tivoli, the well-situated villa of Henry Dennehy, Esq. Three miles from Cappoquin is Mount Melleray, the abbey of the monks of La Trappe. The road leading to it is extremely picturesque. Shortly after passing the town it enters on a mountain district, wild and rocky, presenting steep pre- cipices ; the sides rugged, and a narrow gorge between the hills, strewed with loose rocks, over which a brawling torrent forces its watery way. Trees now nod overhead ; and again, on the other hand, we see their topmost branches, until lost in the depth of the dell, through the side of which our road winds. Piercing through the wooded glen, we catch a glimpse of the bleak country beyond, vast tracts of bog, and now stretching away to a horizon of lofty mountains. One TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 43 green spot seems an oasis in the sterile desert, and this is varied by the white walls and tall spire of Melleray Abbey. The members of this community, driven from their establishment in France during the Revolution in 1830, sought shelter and refuge in this country; and not in vain. Sir Richard Keane granted them a large tract of mountain land, comprising above 500 acres, at a nominal rent. Sums of money were given them by benevolent individuals. The Duke of Devonshire, ever prominent in acts of liberality and munificence, gave one hundred pounds. All denominations of Christians assisted the religious alms-seekers, for such they literally were in worldly goods when they reached Cappoquin, mustering in money but one shilling and sixpence. They applied themselves to labour ; their farm was an unprofit- able moor, yielding heath and stones in abundance. The brethren cleared off the former, and made heaps of the latter, which they used as occasion required, in building houses, fences, &c. They commenced tillage, and were assisted by the peasantry of the surrounding country, who supplied them gratuitously with horses and cars, deeming it a duty to aid these servants of God, who, when their funds permitted, paid hire to all their assistants. In an incredibly short time the aspect of the place was changed. The stony waste was fertilized ; the barren district, where no foot, save the sportsman in pursuit of game, ever trod before, 44 HISTORICAL AND TICTURESQUE GUIDE was divided into fields, and cut up by spade and ploughshare. The grouse, scared by the harrow, flew from their old haunts, and the snipe and hare found their province invaded, while they suffered no danger from the hand that disturbed. Beneath the unpromising surface of bog and furze-brake was a rich subsoil to work upon : when lime was applied, the garden yielded pease, beans, and other vegetables. The Abbey is exteriorly a plain structure. It encloses a quadrangular area. On three sides are ranges of building, 162 feet in length, 30 feet broad, and 32 feet high. On the fourth side is the church, 185 feet in length, 30 feet within the nave, 52 feet in the transept, and 50 feet high. The spire reaches an eleva- tion of 140 feet. The stones used in the entire building are those picked off the land ; the mason-work, carpentry, painting, &c. is the labour of the brotherhood — a noble monument of combined labour and perseverance. There are about 300 acres of the land reclaimed, and the rest in progress of improvement. They have a large dairy, thirty cows ; and have very fine green crops, turnips and potatoes. They grow a good deal of corn, principally wheat ; some rye ; and make their own bread and butter, which, with vegetables, form their diet — as no animal flesh is permitted by the rules of their order. The monks are in number about one hundred, and, with one or two exceptions, all English and Irish. Many have left rank and fortune to devote themselves to this contemplative life. Their costume consists of a white cloth robe ; over it a black cape, the long ends reaching down to the feet ; and a hood of the same covers the head. Perpetual silence is one of the most rigorous observances ; and while visiting the various portions of the establish- ment, beholding the numerous monks in their strange attire actively employed in various avocations, all silently pursuing the tenor of their way, leaves a curious sensation of novelty on the mind. Though they lead a life of continued mortifi- cation and labour, the brethren appear happy, and very healthy. No distinctions of rank or station are known. All rise at two o'clock every morning, summer and winter, and occupy themselves in devotional exercises chiefly until eleven, when they partake of their first meal. This consists of brown bread, stirabout, and potatoes ; their drink, water : an excellent spring affords an abundant supply, which is conveyed by pipes through the refectory. They have a repetition at six of their meagre fare ; and confine themselves to these two meals in the day. The dormitory is an immense apartment, over 100 feet in length, with wooden boxes, like stalls, on both sides : in each is a small bed and crucifix, leaving barely room for the inmate to dress and kneel to his devotions. The day is passed in prayer and labour in the fields, digging, ploughing, building, or in the workshops, making carts, gates, &c. Their taste for embellishment seems reserved for the chapel, and the small garden attached, — the future cemetery of the house. Some of the original monks already tranquilly sleep on the mountain breast, and the wild TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 45 flowers bloom over their lowly graves. The interior of the chapel is splendid ; behind the altar is a magnificent window of coloured glass. An organ has been lately added ; the gift, I understand, of a gentleman, who passed some days here in religious retirement. The choir is beautiful, richly carved, and admirably painted. The whole displaying a beauty of design and finish of execution worthy the most accomplished architect. The enlightened tourist, whose curiosity is gratified by beholding this truly wonderful establishment will not fail to recollect how much we, who live in the nineteenth century, owe to the monastic institutions of former ages. The follow- ing extract from a work*, lately published, enables me to refer to some instances which are appropriate in this place : — " The means of diffusing and perpetuating knowledge were amply provided for by the labours of the monks who, from the times of St. Gregory the Great, were usually employed in transcribing manuscripts for some hours every day. But it was not for mere intellectual advantages and enjoyments that the English were indebted to the introduction of Christianity. It brought in its train all those humbler arts that are so indispensable to the well-being of society, as well as those which exalt and embellish the human character. The trades of the iron- smith, the joiner, and those who worked in the precious metals, were held in such high repute amongst the monastic orders, that it was considered honourable for the highest dignitaries not only to patronise but occasionally to ennoble them by practising with their own hands. In the female communities the labours of the distaff and the loom were plied with well-regulated assiduity ; and in needle-work and the art of embroidery the nuns of those ages attained a skill that has left the specimens of their works that have survived unrivalled for elegance even to the present day. But it was the superior knowledge and persevering industry of the monks as agriculturists that contributed more than any thing else to beautify the aspect of the whole country, and to enrich the population with an abundance of those substantial comforts to which the people had been theretofore almost total strangers. Some of the fairest and most fertile tracts of England were originally reclaimed from the desert and the morass by the self-devotedness especially of the Benedictine monks. Through a spirit of mortification and a love of solitude they usually preferred the most desolate and sequestered districts, and such as seemed to hold out the least hope of a return for the expenditure of fatigue. But labouring, as they did, through a spirit of penance and divine charity, they speedily effected what to the theowas, or slave labourers of lay -proprietors, must have ever remained impossibilities. And in addition to the spontaneous enthu- Rome as it was under Paganism, and as it became under the Popes. London, 1843. 46 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE siasm with which as servants of Christ and of his needy members they applied themselves to toil, the monastic orders possessed immense advantages in these agricultural traditions of the ancient Romans which were cherished in the rural fraternities of St. Benedict long after they had been forgotten or lost every where else. They cleared the forest, drained the fenny regions, constructed roads and embankments, erected mills and bridges, and never hesitated to attempt whatever improvement it was not impossible for the most devoted industry to accomplish. The least favoured regions became the scenes of smiling plenty; the verdant meadow and rich pasture-lands extended where the stagnant waters of the marsh used before to engender pestilence ; and fragrant herbage and many-tinted flowers seemed to spring up and flourish wherever Religion passed through the land upon her errands of benediction." I have inserted this extract to remove from the memory of those who have been benefactors to posterity the thoughtless remarks which generally associate the words idle and lazy with monks. What those referred to in the above passage were in England the Trappists are to-day in Ireland. With equal zeal " they never hesitate to attempt whatever improvement it is not impossible for the most devoted industry to accomplish." With equal austerity, " through a spirit of mortification and love of solitude, they prefer the most desolate and sequestered districts, such as seem to hold out the least return for their labour ;" and the like result follows the untiring labours of this pious fraternity. They drain the fenny regions, construct roads and embankments ; erect a noble church and monastery ; the least-favoured mountain district becomes gradually the scene of smiling plenty ; and lo ! here, on this once barren hill, fragrant herbage and many-tinted flowers spring up and flourish ; for here Religion hath visited the land upon her errand of benediction. CAPPOQUIN TO LISMORE. Having returned to Cappoquin, we proceed to Lismore, distant four miles. The entire bank on the right is clothed with wood, frequently reaching to the water, and environing the various mansions with leafy honours. At Salterbridge, the seat of A. Chearnley, Esq., were formerly extensive iron-works, carried on by the Earl of Cork. Close by the river-side is Ballygelane, the property of N. P. O'Gor- man, Esq., Q. C, the worthy assistant barrister for Kilkenny. TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. LISMORE. Lismore now appears above the trees on the south side of the river — the ma- jestic castle, seated proudly on its throne of rocks, and the slender spire of the cathedral shooting into the liquid sky. The town is of good size, and possesses a commodious hotel. The river affords great facility for commerce with Youghal. By means of the canal cut at the expense of the late Duke of Devonshire, corn and flour are exported, and timber, iron, coal, and miscellaneous articles are imported. By charter of James L, a. d. 1613, granted to Sir Richard Boyle, afterwards Earl of Cork, the town, with adjoining lands, within a mile and a half round the parish church, was made a free borough. It returned two members to Parliament, until disfranchised by the Union. The soil round the town abounds in minerals : in 1836 a lead-mine was discovered, but is not yet worked. The beauty of Lismore has often been described. In a work published long since, the author says, " I know of no spot where the admirer of the picturesque will be more highly gratified than in this grand mixture of the sublimity of nature with the stupendous works of man." * The name is derived from Lis, a fort, and mor, great — in reference to a mount, or ancient fortification standing a little to the east of the town, now called the Round Hill. It was more anciently called Magh-sgiath (i. e. the field of the shield) ; also Dun-sginne. Dun signifies a fort seated on an eminence, and sginne, a flight ; which seems to allude to the flight hither of St. Carthagh, in 636, who was driven from Lestmeath, where he founded the Abbey of Ratheny. An ancient author f thus describes it : — " Lesmor is a famous and holy city, half of which is an asylum into which no woman durst enter ; but it is full of cells and holy monasteries, and religious men, in great numbers, abide there ; and thither holy men flock together from all parts of Ireland ; and not only from Ireland, but from England, and Britain, being desirous to remove from thence to Christ ; and the city is built on the banks of the river Abanmor — that is, the Great River — in the territory of the Nan Deci, or Desies." The city of Lismore acquired great renown as a literary resort. Morinus, in his life of the founder of the University of Lismore, writes, — " Certatim hi properant diverso transite ad urbem Lismoriam, juvenis primos ubi transigit annos." * Sketches collected during a Tour in 1797, by G. Holmes, f In Butler's Lives of Saints, St. Carthagh, B. 48 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE It is now an universally admitted fact, that at the period the northern hive of barbarians had devastated Southern Europe, and swept nearly every trace of civilization in their ruthless progress, Ireland, remote and insulated, was the cradle of science and art, the glory and boast of the western world. There her sages lectured and her bards sang, and the great and powerful of other lands came to drink of the fountains of knowledge profusely poured out. Amandatus est ad disciplinam in Hibernia was then as necessary to constitute an educated gentle- man as a degree in a university at present. " Exemplo patrum commotus amore legendi Ivit ad Hibernos, Sophia mirabile claros. " With love of learning, and examples fired, To Ireland, famed for wisdom, he retired. Devoted to learning, the Irish were not alone content with displaying an attach- ment to the sciences, and exhibiting unparalleled zeal to promote them at home, but extended their institutions abroad, and sent forth men of genius and piety, who became eminent in every part of Europe, in the early ages. Alfred the Great, who was the most renowned and most learned monarch in Europe, was educated here — in Hibernia omni philosophia animum composuit* : and here he acquired the skill on the Irish harp, which he afterwards employed so successfully, in procuring admission to the tent of Guthrum, the Danish prince, disguised as a harper, and while sojourning there, became acquainted with the manners and habits of his foes, and laid plans for defeating and banishing them from his kingdom. On his return to England, he invited Johannes Erigena to his court, and with the assist- ance of that Professor, founded the University of Oxford — probably on the plan of that of Lismore. Bede mentions an interesting instance of the liberality, and eagerness to impart the best instruction, evinced by our ancestors — " They not only liberally endowed seminaries for native pupils, but invited every foreigner to participate in the same pursuit ; and with a disinterestedness unknown in similar establishments of any people in their highest state of refinement, defrayed every expense, and gratuitously supplied the literary guests with every accommodation." Lismore Castle, the present principal attraction of more modern times, was built by King John, a. d. 1185, and was surprised by the Irish in 1189, who displayed their inveterate hostility by slaying the garrison, with Robert Barry, the governor. When rebuilt, it was occupied by the bishops as their residence, until the time of Milor Magrath, who, with the consent of the Dean and Chapter, granted it to Sir Walter Raleigh, from whom, with the rest of his possessions, it was purchased by the Earl of Cork. Early in the insurrection of 1641, the castle was besieged by * Gul. Malm. TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 49 5000 Irish, under Sir Richard Beling, but was bravely defended by the Earl's son, Lord Broghill, and the assailants compelled to retire. In 1643, a party of insurgents, in retaliation for the destruction of Clogheen by the garrison of Lis- more, burned a number of thatched houses, killed sixty of the inhabitants, and made several prisoners. And, in the same year, General Purcell united his forces with those of Lord Muskerry, and laid siege to the castle. After a week, a cessation of arms was agreed to, and the besiegers withdrew. The castle suffered much in this war, and was subsequently burned by Lord Castlehaven, in 1645. It was some- what repaired soon after, for we find, in 1686, the Earl of Clarendon, in his tour through Munster, slept within the walls ; and again, in 1689, it was visited by James II. In 1785, the Duke of Rutland, Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, held a council here, and issued several proclamations. The castle, with its appur- tenances, descended from the Earls of Cork and Burlington, by marriage, in 1748, of Lady Charlotte Boyle with William Cavendish, fourth Duke of Devonshire, the ancestor of his Grace the Duke of Devonshire. It is situated on the summit of a perpendicular range of woody rock, over- hanging the Blackwater. The scene which meets the sight is very beautiful. The bridge, a fine structure, spans the main part of the river by the great arch of a hundred feet, and we see six smaller ones underneath the causeway, intended to carry off the flood. This bridge was erected by the late Duke of Devonshire, at the cost of 9000/. Immediately above the light and graceful bridge appears the thick foliage of huge trees, flinging their boughs over the river, while richly covered rocks rise to a fearful height, crowned by the feudal towers of this ducal pile. The portions next us half disclose their antique casements, the ivied turrets and shelving roofs are concealed by the nodding trees. Farther off, the square- built towers are boldly defined against the brown woods, and high over all the venerable and lofty trees raise their shady branches, and form a verdant canopy. I proceeded to visit the interior, and, as I paced along the ancient avenue, felt awed by the solitary grandeur of the scene. Beside me the tall trees cast a shadow on the outer gate-house in front, giving its neglected towers a deep and solemn shade. Behind it was the stately castle, lifting its high embattled walls, blackened by the hand of time, and ivy the growth of centuries. I thought of Lord Frederick Evesham, in Florence Mac Carthy, terrifying Lady Dunore at this spot, as thus described by Lady Morgan : — " The splendid cavalcade at last arrived before the turreted gates of the castle of Dunore ; and, as the carriages rolled over the pavement of the gloomy court, and the tenants of the old rookery in the rear of the castle screamed their dis- approbation of the unusual intrusion, Lady Dunore's susceptible spirits again sank from their high -wound pitch. " God send us safe out of this wild country!" said her ladyship, with a deep sigh. 50 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE " Amen," said young Crawley, most emphatically. " Amen," repeated Lord Frederick, most theatrically ; adding, " The raven himself is hoarse That croaks the fatal entrance of Duncan Under my battlements. " " Good heavens ! " exclaimed Lady Dunore ; " how can you, Lord Frederick ? You, too, who were in part the cause of bringing me here, with your ridiculous accounts of the ' celestial empire,' and your ' chop mandarins,' that made me die laughing in London, are a monstrous dull set out here ! " The carriages stopped before the last gate ; and the lights flashed full upon — " God's providence is my inheritance." This inscription, the motto of the Earls of Cork, is yet over the archway, and, on passing underneath, I stood in a spacious courtyard. On each side are ranges of offices belonging to the castle, which faces the entrance, and forms a parallel- ogram. The castle is kept in excellent repair, and his Grace occasionally pays it a visit. He is much beloved as a kind, considerate landlord, and is well repre- sented by his agent, F. E. Curry, Esq., son to the late respected Colonel Curry. Mr. Curry resides in the castle, and several of my military friends who have partaken of his hospitality bear honourable testimony to the attention and kindness they received. Though the contrast is striking between the ancient and modern parts, united they produce a pleasing effect ; but the loneliness of the place is depressing. Even the eagle chained near the doorway looks wild and untamed, as if he never left his solitary eyrie. A man or two, loitering about, seemed as if they served nobody, without serving themselves. I was met at the entrance by the housekeeper, and after leaving my autograph in the hall — a low roofed apart- ment — followed my cicerone. She led the way upstairs, and conducted me through several apartments, none remarkable for size. There are some choice paintings, and two fine pieces of tapestry — a " Dutch Wedding" and " Dutch Fair." The colours were bright and natural, and the figures true to life. The view from one of the windows is startling. Down about a thousand feet the Blackwater glides, and you hear — " The fretful melody Of water, gurgling through the rugged weir, Brought on the breeze." King James II. dined in this room, and, on looking out of the window, nearly fell back in terror at its precipitate elevation over the river. In another apart- ment, Robert Boyle, the philosopher, " father of modern chemistry, and brother : TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 51 to the Earl of Cork," as one of his admirers described him, was born 25th January, 1626-7 : he was the seventh son and fourteenth child of the first Earl of Cork. I know nothing superior to the prospect enjoyed from the casemented projecting window of the tapestried chamber in Lismore Castle. It looks on the river, flowing several hundred feet beneath, gliding in its onward course under the graceful bridge and watering a rich and verdant valley. The hills do not contract the fair meadow inches which display the hue of the emerald in their green banks. Clumps of trees afford shelter and shade to flocks and herds. There are vistas presented to the sight, and high mountains peep from the lateral glens, through which the tributary streamlets from the hills pour into the Black water. Inglis says, " Nothing can exceed in richness and beauty the view from the bridge, when at evening the deep woods, and the grey castle, and the still river, are left in shade, while the sun, streaming up the valley, gilds all the soft slopes and knolls that lie opposite ; the bridge ; the castle, grey and massive, with its ruined and ivy -grown towers ; and the beautiful tapering spire of the church ; all combine to form a scene we gaze on with pleasure, and turn away from with regret." There are numerous weirs on this part of the river — no fewer than forty-two salmon weirs between Youghal and Lismore ; one under the castle is very pro- ductive : the fishing is rented from the Duke by Mr. Foley, at 700/. a year. In 52 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE the work on Ireland, by Mr. and Mrs. Hall, we find, " If the river in the neigh- bourhood of Lismore were free, we doubt if there be any place in the United Kingdom that would promise so ample a recompense to the votaries of the gentle craft ; and we presume to hint, that so great would be the consequent influx of visiters to this beautiful town, that a far greater revenue would arise to the Duke than that which he derives from the rental of the weir." The recent changes in the fishery laws are of such general importance as to deserve a brief notice. It is now enacted by 5 & 6 Victoria, c. 106., commonly called the Fishery Act, that all regulations relative to the fisheries of Ireland in existence prior to the passing of that act be repealed, and control invested for the future in the commissioners for public works, with certain prescribed powers for their guidance. By this Act the use of trawl or trammel nets is prohibited at any place in any season, or dredges, nets, instruments, or engines, for the destruction of fish within the limits of an oyster-bed, being private property ; but the proprietor of a salmon fishery, his lessee or assignee, has power to erect stake-weirs, stake- nets, bag-nets, or other fixed nets, for the taking of salmon, in or along any estuary, subject to the provisions contained in the Act ; which privilege is extended to the proprietors and certain lessees of lands adjoining such estuaries, where no several fishery exists. The Act specifies the description of net to be used. The meshes must have a space of two inches and a half between knot and knot ; and not even these are allowed if placed in any manner hurtful to the navigation : they cannot be permitted to extend further than from high to low water-mark, or to be placed at the mouths of narrow salmon rivers. After the 1st of January, 1844, no fish of the salmon kind shall be taken in any river, lake, or estuary, during the interval between the 20th of August and the 11th of February, nor any taking of trout in the interval of the 1st of October and 12th of February. Eels shall not be taken in rivers by nets, baskets, or any other fixed engine, between the 1st of July and 10th of January. Persons catching fish during the seasons thus prohibited, or exposing for sale any of the fish so defined to be protected, are rendered liable to severe penalties. Destroying or taking salmon or trout by cribs, boxes, sluices, weirs, or nets, is also strictly for- bidden from six o'clock on Saturday evening to six o'clock on Monday morning, during which time a free passage of four feet wide shall be left for the fish, and at all times a free gap, or queen's share, in the deepest part of the river. The Act expressly forbids this queen's gap being narrowed by the erection of any spur or tail walls ; and no person shall fish with rod and line, or in any manner whatsoever in any gap or queen's share, in any weir, or within fifty yards above or below such weir. Cross-fishing, either for trout or salmon, is also prohibited, save by the proprietor of a several fishery, or any person duly authorised by him in writing, TO THE EWER BLACKWATER. 53 within the limits thereof. All persons wilfully taking from, or offering to sell, unclean, spent, or unseasonable fish, are liable to penalties ; likewise all netting of salmon or other fish in mill-dams or water-courses. The Blackwater abounds with salmon, trout, perch, and pike. The principal portion of the river adapted to the sport of the angler is from Lismore to Mallow. There is excellent fly-fishing in the vicinity of Fermoy ; and two of the tributa- ries to the Blackwater, the Funcheon and Bride, are excellent trout streams. There are fishing-tackle warehouses in Fermoy for the sale of flies, &c. suited to the respective rivers ; and the sportsman need not be under any anxiety about a guide to the haunts of the finny tribe, as sufficient disciples of Izaak Walton abound ready to accompany the stranger for a small consideration. My poetic companion of yore, the " poor but contented Pat Sheehan," as he generally sub- scribed his effusions, has a growing progeny to supply his place. I should have expected the obliging servant who accompanied me over the castle to have been acquainted with some of the particulars which give interest to a visit of this kind ; but though she heard of the great Lord Boyle, it was all I could learn from her. The letter written during the siege in 1641, when Lord Broghill held the castle against the Irish is very spirited, and concludes thus : — " My lord, fear nothing for Lismore ; for, if it be lost, it shall be with the life of him that begs your lordship's blessing, and styles himself your lordship's most humble, most obliged, and most dutiful son and servant, " Broghill." Lismore is by some said to be the birth-place of Congreve, the dramatist ; his father having some military appointment in Lreland, which occasioned his being stationed in the South. He was educated partly at Kilkenny, and afterwards completed his studies in Dublin. When at the age of sixteen he was sent to study law in the Middle Temple, where he lived for several years ; but with little progress in the science of jurisprudence. The historic recollections of Lismore are not confined to its ancient renown as a literary institution, or the fame of its castle. Here, according to Matthew Paris, Henry II. first promulgated English law in L-eland in 1172. After landing at Waterford he marched to this place, where he was met by the chiefs of Munster, who, with the archbishops, bishops, and abbots of Ireland, swore allegi- ance, and gave him a charter confirming the kingdom of Ireland to him and his heirs for ever. The records of this important transaction are both scanty and contradictory ; but the weight of evidence goes to prove that the Irish prelates on this occasion sacrificed the independence of their country to a foreign monarch, on condition of having their ecclesiastical privileges maintained against the usurpations of the 54 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE Irish chieftains. The reformation of religion was the pretence offered in the bulls of Popes Adrian and Alexander for granting the sovereignty of Ireland to the monarch of England ; and this reformation was interpreted by the prelates to mean investing their order with the same political power in Ireland which it pos- sessed in England. The eagerness of the clergy to tender allegiance to Henry in Waterford, Lismore, and Cashel, strongly confirms the assertion that the English sovereignty was sought by the hierarchy ; and this is indeed subsequently asserted by their body in complaints of the violation of the compact addressed to the court of Rome. Matthew Paris expressly declares that the terms on which Henry was to obtain the sovereignty of Ireland were arranged in a synod or council at Lismore, the bishop of which see was the pope's legate. Modern opinions of the transaction are an unfair standard of j udgment. In the twelfth century public consent invested prelates with powers which they could not refuse, even if they were so inclined ; and it was natural that they should use them to strengthen their order, which they honestly believed to be the best security for the mainte- nance of civilised society. Lismore, as the place where the compact which gave Ireland to English rule was made, will excite different reflections in different minds ; but its historical associations, however various, must be equally interesting to all. The Cathedral Church is close to the castle ; the approach is from the town, through an avenue with a fine row of trees. It is the only remaining ancient church of those formerly here (some say as many as twenty), and was dedicated to St. Carthagh. This sacred edifice was often in considerable danger. In 1 1 73, when Raymond le Gros and Strongbow wasted the Decies country, they extorted a large sum of money from the then bishop to prevent the cathedral from being burned. The great care bestowed did not always avail. It sustained considerable damage in Elizabeth's reign from Edmund Fitzgibbon, called the White Knight, so called most probably from the colour of his armour. It was restored in 1663, at the expense of the Earl of Cork ; and has been lately repaired, when a square tower, surmounted by a light and taper spire, was added. The entrance is at the extremity of the south transept, under a pure Norman arch. The windows of the choir are of stained glass, and the bishop's throne and prebends' stalls richly carved oak. There are many tasteful monuments to the deceased members of families in the neighbourhood — Musgrave, Chearnley, Lovett, and others. Among the more striking are the tablets to the memory of Archdeacon Ryan and Dean Scott. One ancient tomb, inscribed to the family of Mac Grath, dated 1548, is richly sculptured; on the side stones are figures of the apostles in bas-relief, the upper stone is divided into compartments ; time has nearly ob- literated the design and inscription. Near the church are two small caves, and one in the grove near the castle. TO THE RIVER BLACK WATER. 55 Several entrenchments, vestiges of war's footsteps, are in the neighbourhood. A [ double trench, called Rinke-Bo-Padruic, or Dance of St. Patrick's Cow, is in this j parish ; of which the legend is, that it was the work of St. Patrick's cow, when I she went to Ardmore in search of her calf which had been stolen. Dr. Smith j conjectures it is the trace of an ancient highway from Cashel to Ardmore, between which two places there was formerly frequent intercourse. A single trench runs i from Cappoquin along the side of the mountains into county Cork, supposed to have been a "boundary or fence made to preserve the cattle against wolves." Some mineral waters are met with. Midway between Lismore and Cappoquin is a weak chalybeate water, and a strong chalybeate spring near Glenmore. The soil is in general fertile ; the lands arable and pasture ; and there is not much bog. Slate quarries are contiguous to the town ; and abundance of limestone, silicious rock, conglomerate, and sandstone, also present themselves. Iron, copper, and lead ores, have formerly been worked, but are now discontinued for want of fuel* ; it is, however, hoped the facility afforded by the navigation of the Blackwater will cause this evil to be speedily remedied. No measure more calculated to benefit the country and develope her vast natural resources can engage the atten- tion of the patriot and philanthropist. The intercourse which it necessarily causes would do more to dispel erroneous notions and prejudices, and remove animosities, than centuries of legislation. Let manufacturing industry prevail — let the labouring mechanic find employment, and peace and order will be united to temperance. Let not our lovely river flow unheeded by as " a sealed book." Employ the people. The river presents no obstacle, but there is work to be had — establishing beacons and guides through the channel, constructing quays, land- ing places ; clearing banks, giving means of employment, and directing the energies of the people to useful works. The opening of the Blackwater river will be of vast service to the entire of the country along its banks, affording new sources of employment to the people, and enabling the farmers to purchase coal and culm, and to burn lime at a moderate rate. By establishing lines of intercourse, and promoting industrious pursuits, feelings of discontent would be dissipated, and crime, originating most commonly in poverty and idleness, receive a wholesome check by removing its main cause. This river appears designed by nature to form a cheap and convenient mode of communication between the interior of this populous country with the sea, and demands little aid from art to render it highly beneficial. The present obstruc- tions arise from beds of gravel, which cause rapids or shallows in the main channel, and in summer time the water is so shallow that a vessel moderately laden cannot Lewis's Top. Diet, of Ireland. Lismore. Vide also Ryland's Waterford, 353. 56 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE pass, which almost amounts to a prohibition against carrying on trade with cer- tainty. Sufficient water for flat-bottomed boats is, however, attainable ; and we have ourselves ascended it at a period of drought when the river was remarkably low, without meeting any serious impediment. Sir Richard Musgrave, Bart., who most energetically devoted his time and talents, and by purse and example laboured to advance the condition of his fellow countrymen by directing their attention to the great wealth lying useless and neglected in their native land, observes : — " Above and below these shallows or rapids there is always a considerable depth of water : a good pull for 100 yards takes a boat over a rapid, and then there is generally, or rather invariably, a long reach of deep water, with a gentle current." He considers that as a general rule it would not be advisable to remove these beds of gravel. — " They answer the purpose of embankments. The rapid or inclined plane of water supplies, in a great degree, the advantage of a lock, and requires less time in passing. An anchor placed just above the rapid, with a chain attached to it, would afford great facility. A boat might then easily ascend by attaching this chain to a winch in her bow." The navigation of the Garonne is most useful for commerce, and this may be also said of many other rapid and shallow rivers. " The condition of the popu- lation of Sweden, France, and many other countries as to food and clothing is much superior to that of the population of Ireland. There are many causes for our inferiority. But one powerful cause no doubt is, the neglect of the natural resources of Ireland. Public attention is directed to the prospect of grand lines of railway, while valuable and cheap lines of communication by water are neg- lected." There is nothing can confer greater benefit on any country than a cheap and ready mode of conveying her agricultural produce to her sea-ports ; or, as the Commissioners of Public Works report, what Ireland stands most in need of at present is, a cheap and expeditious means of having her agricultural produce conveyed from the heart of the country to the extremities. The worst crimes of the people are produced through poverty, and its concomitant idleness, and not through any innate depravity of the population. Remove the cause, and the re- sult is certain of being gratifying to the lover of order and peace. Give but a good line of water-carriage along the Blackwater, and it will be the means of inducing capitalists to establish factories, for they will find every facility for trade. Cheap labour, cheap and plentiful provisions, and a ready mode of shipping their goods to the mart for the produce of their industry. Again ; see the great blessing to the population who reside in the vicinity of this navigable river. It runs along a country of 75 miles, which, doubling the length of coast, gives 150 miles. For about 50 miles it has a depth of water sufficient for all purposes of internal inter- course. We have, then, 100 miles which would be clearly benefited by the TO THE RIVER BLACK WATER. 57 j navigation. The greater portion of this line has a substratum of limestone, rendering it dry, and yields an abundant harvest of grain, and other pro- duce. There is, however, much deep loam, strong tenacious soil, requiring manure and labour. Some farms along the banks yield wheat and potatoes, and others lighter crops, while miles of fertile meadow-land afford pasturage for droves of sheep and black cattle. Now it requires but little argument to show how so great a tract of thickly populated country would be benefited by interchange of products. Sand, so excellent for manure, might be had reasonably. Coal and culm to burn lime might be brought in a lighter of from 50 to 60 tons to Cappoquin or Lis- more, and then transferred to flat-bottomed boats for the more shallow waters. Building materials, stone, sand, flags, bricks, slates, &c. could be easily brought from those districts in which they abound, and readily disposed of where they do not exist, and are only to be procured now at a great expense. The towns would derive much benefit also from the intercourse of passengers and strangers. Possessing the at- tractions of exquisite scenery, it is more than probable that thousands of our fellow-subjects of this and the sister countries, hitherto ignorant of the lovely landscapes on every side of the river, will gladly avail themselves of the means afforded to permit their enjoying them, and resort to our hotels and places of entertainment. The Rhine has become familiar as a high road, and even Switzer- land is now well known : any novelty is sure to have an influx of visitors ; and I feel proud to say the banks of the Black water from Youghal to Mallow, and for miles higher, may fairly rival those of any European river for the same distance. FROM LISMORE TO FERMOY. A weir belonging to the Duke of Devonshire, already described, crosses the river at Lismore, and prevents its continuous navigation ; but the possibility of transit to a much higher point has been indisputably established by Sir Richard Musgrave, whose flat-bottomed boat the " John Anderson," has made several trips between Lismore and Fermoy. The want of a towing-path renders it necessary that the boat should be drawn by men the greater part of the distance, but for some miles above the castle the water is sufficiently deep to allow of the use of oars. Evidences of genial climate and fertile soil abound at the point where deep water begins. There is a fuchsia trained against the wall of a house, more than twenty feet high, presenting one mass of rich flower from the root to the top- most stem. A finer sheet of water than the expanse of the river above the castle could not easily be found. Though visitors cannot precisely say — We were the first that ever burst Into that silent sea, yet the upper Blackwater is still but little known, and we felt something of the 58 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE excitement belonging to the explorers of unknown lands when we embarked in Sir R. Musgrave's boat, just where the river seems almost to expand into a lake above the castle. The view here is very fine. To the left facing the south is the ducal castle, with the graceful bridge ; while the shapely spire of the venerable cathedral reminds the tourist that he beholds a holy edifice, and he remembers the ancient glories of Lismore. Other seats in the neighbourhood are Ballyinn, P. Foley, Esq., and Tourtain, T. Foley, Esq. About a mile west, on the north bank, is a splendid domain, Ballysaggartmore, the residence of Arthur Usher, Esq. The avenue opens by a noble entrance, of which the accompanying sketch is a faithful representation ; the gate is the work of a native mechanic, and cost 150/., and the masonry is constructed of mountain granite, which is well suited to the Gothic architecture. The avenue leads through a dense wood, and winds along a steep hill, a perfectly level drive, though the mountain rises to a great height, and the descent on the other side is very great. A mountain torrent brawls along the bottom, and after a fretful course falls into the Blackwater. This is crossed by a castellated bridge, of which we subjoin an engraving. Nothing can be more ro- mantic than this castle in the woods. On every side are trees and hills, with the river in the distance ; and the dash and flow of the torrent falls pleasingly amid the solitude. When the bend of the road shows the cluster of towers, and arched TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 59 passages with the parapets of the bridge as if raised by magic, the scene is par- ticularly striking. It is all so executed as to bear traces of antiquity, and in excellent unison with the beautiful scenery of the vicinity. QS/ Adjoining is Flower Hill, the sweetly-situated mansion of Barry Drew, Esq. The grounds are laid out with much taste, and kept in excellent order. It com- mands a pleasing view of the river, and the attractions of its shores ; and close by is the waterfall of Glenmore. The distant hills over Cappoquin now appear indistinct, and Knockmeldown looks a dark hazy mass. Opposite is a tastefully- planted demesne and handsome house, Fort-William, seat of J. Gumbleton, Esq. ; and not far from this are the ruins of the castle of Ballygarron, once the seat of the Gays. The Gumbletons have been settled in this country about 150 years. They came from Kent, and purchased Ballygarron Castle and Manor on the river Blackwater. Since then they have acquired much valuable property in the neighbourhood of Lismore, Curry glass, and Tallow. Fort- William House, seat of John Gumbleton already mentioned ; Belgrove, the handsome seat of Rev. George Gumbleton ; 60 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE Curryglass House, seat of the late William Gumbleton, Esq. ; Castle View, seat of Richard Gumbleton, Esq., married to a Miss Fowke of Gloucestershire ; Marston, seat of R. Gumbleton, Esq., mentioned infra, sufficiently attest their respectability along the banks of the Blackwater. We glide by some pretty landscapes. The river here enables the rowers to pull, and the landscape on every side is worthy the noble river. Opposite Flower Hill is Glenbeg, the seat of George Bennet Jackson, Esq. It is charmingly situated, and there is a walk along the margin of the river planted with great taste ; its shady vista being composed of noble beech trees of great size and beauty. A curious natural cavern was discovered some time since in the demesne. Glencairn Abbey, the seat of the Bushe family, but at present occupied by the Right Hon. Dr. Keating, Judge of the Prerogative Court, as his summer residence, |i°^Mr M? forms no inconsiderable feature in the view before us. It is about three miles from Lismore, and surrounded by a finely-planted demesne. The architecture is quite in the Abbey style, and the interior boasts some good rooms ; the aspect agreeable, and the grounds command many charming prospects. From a rustic summer-house built over the river, the view of Flower Hill on the opposite bank is truly enchanting. Under Glencairn the water becomes shallow, and impeded by rapids. We have some very shallow water at Ballygally, the property of G. H. Jackson, Esq., and the sturdy boatmen find a difficulty in surmounting these ; but again, en route, we proceed to Ballyduff bridge, the property of Sir Richard Musgrave, Bart. This place must now possess interest for the advocates of the inland navigation of the TO THE RIVER BLACK WATER. 61 Blackwater, for here was first launched the " John Anderson," to ply between Lis- more and Glandelane. There are ruins of an extensive mansion here, once belonging to the Drew family. It was of considerable strength, and protected by a curtain wall, pierced for musketry. In the confusion which followed the civil wars of 1641 and 1690, this part of the country appears to have been exposed to the depredations of the disbanded soldiery of the defeated armies, and hence arose the necessity of fortifying this mansion ; in other respects this little place possesses no importance, for the village of Ballyduff is small, and thinly inhabited. There is, however, an appearance of cleanliness and comfort in the cottages which bespeaks the fostering care of a kind and intelligent landlord. There is a good depth of water from Ballyduff to Marston ; the banks on each side abound in varieties of wild herbs and flowers, affording pleasure to the bota- nist as well as to those who love the simple beauties of nature. Marston, the residence of R. Gumbleton, Esq., is built in the ornate cottage style, which har- monises well with the surrounding scenery. Here some shallows impede the navigation ; but this defect could easily be remedied by engineering science. Continuing our voyage, we reach the ruins of Macollop Castle, a monument of the early Anglo-Norman conquerors, and distinguished in the annals of the feudal wars between the Geraldines and the Butlers. It consists of a circular keep or donjon, flanked at the base with square towers, and is similar in character to many of the old border-fortresses between England and Scotland. Nearly half of the 62 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE principal tower was battered down by Cromwell's cannon, but the winding stair- case is still tolerably perfect, and is worth ascending for the sake of the rich prospect from the summit of the castle. Adjoining is a comfortable mansion, lately occupied by Francis Drew, Esq. ; and on his demise it came, by marriage of his daughter and sole heiress, to James Barry, Esq., of Ballyclogh, late captain 15th Foot, who recently filled the office of high sheriff of the county Cork. The domain is finely planted. Thick woods rise behind the house, while the distant hills of Clogheen and Kil worth close the view. This property possesses several valuable cider orchards ; and some years ago the cider made here by Mr. Drew lost the premium given by the Dublin Society, being so excellent in its kind, that the gentlemen who were judges imagined it to be mixed with foreign wine ; but the following year, being undeceived, they granted the premium.* The cider made on Captain Barry's property still preserves a reputation worthy its locality. The river winds like a writhing serpent, and is very shallow and rapid above Macollop. A little west of the house are traces where stood a wooden bridge, swept away by a high flood in 1838, to the great inconvenience of the inhabitants of the district. All along the north bank rich lawns, dotted with clumps of noble trees, lead to Kilmurry, seat of Thomas Grant, Esq. The new line of road, close to the water, shows a vast cliff of limestone, which would be of the greatest benefit if transported to districts where such material is required for buildings, or lime- burning. This is one of the great benefits which the facility of intercourse, brought on by inland navigation, confers — the facility of interchange of products of the various districts along the banks. To the south is a wooded tract of country lying in the county of Waterford, called Waterpark, where are still to be seen the remains of a stately mansion, formerly belonging to Chief Justice Pyne. There is a district on the north bank, called Inchinlema, in which was anciently a castle of Grauna ni Churimuth, but of which I could find no trace save vague tradition. A well, by the road-side, is called Tubber Grauna, and Garrison Well. A military barrack was here formerly, and a tan-yard : they too have gone, and left no sign ; but there are good farm- houses belonging to Michael Quirk, and two brothers named Flynn. Kilmurry is a fine old mansion, commandingly placed, on the side of a well-wooded hill on the north bank ; and its proprietor, Mr. Grant, promises fair to sustain the highly esteemed character of his honourable house. Opposite is Kilbarry, the splendidly situate and hospitable mansion of Henry Wigmore, Esq. Higher up than Kil- murry we meet a small island in the river. The north bank here falls precipitously into the stream, a dense mass of rock : tall firs nod from the summit. Opposite, * Smith's Cork, vol. i. TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 63 on the south bank, is Careysville, the handsome seat of Edward Carey, Esq., built on a rocky eminence over the river. Here was a strong castle of the Condons, called Ballymac Patrick. In January, 1642, this castle was taken by David, Earl of Barrymore, after an obstinate resistance. Close by are Glandelane Mills, and a high mill race, which requires a lock to free the navigation of the river. The ruins on a rock to the north are those of Ballyderoon, or town between two rivers — the Ariglen and Funcheon, which fall into the Blackwater close to Mount Rivers, the elegant and picturesque seat of Matthias Hendley, Esq. Near this is a neat house of Rev. T. Newenham, rector of Kilworth, and Moore Park, the finely -planted demesne of the Earl of Mountcashel. The house of Moore Park is a spacious mansion, commanding a fine view. The front looks into a nobly-wooded lawn of considerable extent, and adorned with clumps of trees, in various detached groupings. There is a fine selection of paintings, some rare master-pieces, in Lord Mountcashel's collection. The in- habitants of this country owe him much gratitude, for his benevolent exertions to advance the navigation of the river, of which he is practically illustrating the feasibility. Two large boats have been recently built for him, under the super- intendence of Alfred Cleverley, Esq., and are admirably adapted to the river. The boats brought a great number on board as far as Fermoy bridge, and draw 64 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE little water. By such examples as the Earl of Mountcashel and Sir Richard Musgrave, the rest of the proprietors may be induced to assist so valuable a measure as unfolding the resources of their native land, by establishing a cheap and convenient water carriage. In the domain, near the river Funcheon, is a strong castle, Cloghleagh, or Grey- stone, a tall square tower, rounded at the angles, built by the Condons. In " Smith's History of Cork," vol. ii. p. 147., there is the following circumstantial account of a desperate engagement fought here : — " Sir Charles Vavasor marched towards Condon's country, and took the castle of Cloghleagh, on 3d June, 1643, after an obstinate defence of Condon the governor. Next day the Irish assembled in such force, that the victors were compelled to retreat, and Sir Charles ordered the cannon to hasten to Fermoy, to help to defend that pass. He then led on his army ; but on entering a defile, was charged on by the Irish, and nearly all were slain. According to some, 600 were killed. Sir Charles Vavasor, and almost all the officers, fell in this engagement." I thought, when recurring to this event, that Dr. Smith laboured under some mistake, because the castle at this time belonged to the Fleetwoods, from whom the Earl of Mountcashel's ancestors purchased it. He showed me the patents granting it ; the first dated 3d September, 29 Elizabeth, granted to Thomas Fleetwood and Marmaduke Redmayn ; the second confirm- ing it in Charles II. 's reign. I find, however, that the very year before that mentioned in " Smith's History," namely, July, 1642, this castle, then the pro- perty of Sir Richard Fleetwood, was taken by Lord Barrymore, and the custody of it entrusted to Sir Arthur Hyde, from whom it was afterwards taken by a descend- ant of the original founder, who surprised the garrison. He was in possession when attacked by Sir Charles Vavasor. Some distance from the foot of the castle the Funcheon runs under a neat bridge, and falls into the Blackwater at Hallihan's rock. Among a collection of legends narrated of this locality are the following, which, I hope, may serve to amuse the reader. One is entitled, " The Enchanted Horse of Cloghleagh Castle ; " the other, which contains reminiscences of a gay spirit now gathered to his fathers, relates divers moving accidents, under the title of " The Haunted Huntsman, a Tale of the Blackwater side." THE ENCHANTED HORSE OF CLOGHLEAGH CASTLE. There lived not long ago, near the ivy-covered ruins of the ancient church of Kilcrumper, a poor labouring man, of the name of Larry, or Laurence Toomy. Many were the pleasant hours Larry and I spent together. Methinks I see him now, sitting on one of the time-worn tombstones, with his grandchild in his arms, and surrounded by half a score of the neighbours' children, enjoying the setting TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 65 sun. The evening breeze tranquilly playing 'mid his silver locks, which seemed to vie in antiquity with the moss-grown stone he had chosen for his seat. Various were the stories which Larry's proximity to that airy place could fur- nish (all of which were, of course, undeniably true) ; but there was one he took particular pride in relating, as he himself was the subject : it was, as I recollect, nearly as follows. Larry loquitur : — " When I was a young man, some fifty years back, I was very fond ov a smoke ov tobaccy, so that it was a great source ov throuble to be wid-out it ; an' one day, plase your honour, as I was goin out to the work, I desired my wife to have a pen'orth ov it, wid-out fail, for me when I returned. " The first thing I did when I came home in the evenin was to ax (ask) for it ; an' if I did, she up an' tould me, as how she had something else to do all day, mind- in the childer, and she was so busy that she forgot it. To be sure I was very vexed, giving her at the same time a great hearing, when, my dear life an' sowl, she opened at me, called me a Boulam skeich *, and a grate many other impertinances, when I tuk the three-legged stool, an' was goin to strike her, but constrained miself. — ' Grive me my penny,' sis I, an' away I wint the short cut through the fields to Kilworth, acrass the ford. There happened to have been some rain the days before, so that there was a swell in the river ; but seein an ould horse grazing on the bank, sis I to myself, * Faix,' sis I, * may be this chap will take me over,' an' as it was gettin dark, I knew that if I had him I wouldn't be long. " ' Come, my ould haro,' sis I, ' you'll save me the throuble of strippin to-night, any how ; ' so, by dad, up I got, as bould as a lion, an' dhrove him into the ford. " "Well, when we got into the middle ov the wather, instead of goin over straight, he biggin to face down the river, an' no kicks nor thumps could alther his coorse. Well ! whin we came to Downing Bridge, it would do your heart good to see the iligant fine leap he tuk from the middle ov the river, cliver an' clane, to the top ov the battlements ov the bridge, wid me ridin him all the time. (I never seen such another leap, only one. I heard the Paudreen mare give out anear Mallow, from a rock, forty feet above the level ov the say (sea), down to another rock, the same distance ablow it ; an' whin the mare came within five feet ov the lower rock, the jockey turned her round wid a common snaffle bridle, an' widout lettin her touch it, leaped her back agin ! ! !) " Well, Sir, he leaped up on the bridge, over to the opposite battlement, an' to my gratist ov consternashin, down again into the river ! I wasn't kilt, for we went on, 'till at last we came to the feet ov Cloghleagh Castle, at the bottom of which there grows an immensity ov all sorts — thorns, furze, briars, brambles, through * Bully. 66 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE all which, an' a sight more, this villin ov a horse dragged me, 'till my skin an' my back was skivered wid 'em, an' the blood runnin out in strames. Having satisfied himself there, an' not laving me worth a traneen, the scoundrel takes an' wid one I don't know whether it was a fly or a leap, jumps up on the top ov the highest chimbley ov the castle. " It must surely be a beautiful sight to see him cuttin capers on the top ov the castle, wid me on his back, leaping from one chimbley to another, an' so on, 'till my heart was almost dead within me wid the fright, At long last he landed on the ground, an' shure if I was frightened afore, I was doubly terryfied whin he opened his mouth, an' in the most natheral an' humanlike manner, he spoke to me as thus, axin me — (i ' How do you like yer ridin ? ' " ' Why, thin, not by any manner ov means, plaze yer honor,' sis I, thinkin it best to be civil, ' but wo'n't you let me off now ? ' " ' Och no ! ' sis he ; 'I wouldn't thrate you so ungenteelly ; wait till I take you to your journey's end. You're goin to Kilworth for a pen'orth ov tobaccy, an' I'll tell you what to do : ask for a naggin of whisky an a pound ov 'baccy, an' as soon as you get it I'll be off, so you need not mind payin for it.' " ' Very well, Sir,' sis I, ' but for the tinder marcy ov God take me asy ; ' so up we wint to Peg Gainy's public, that's just at the cross turnin in from Ballina- carriga. Troth, stiff enough I called for a naggin ov the best, an' drank it. ' Now,' sis I, ' I'll be afther troublin you for a pound of tobacco.' " ' No trouble in life, Sir,' sis she ; but shure an' sartain the very minit I got it in the heel ov my fist, I an' my gentleman were on our way to the castle, leaving poor Peg whistling for the change. " ' How do you like yer ridin now ? ' asked my coppulleen.* " ' Very well, Sir ; may be you '11 have the goodness to let me off now? ' " ' Yerah ! be asy,' sis he, ' don't be in such a taring hurry away from me, for you go back the way you came.' " ' Oh ! then God help me,' sis I ; ' I'm done for now, shurely.' " I had scarcely said these words, when on a suddint he gave a lep on the top ov the tottering castle, in the same way as before, thin from one chimbley to another, from that to the brake, where, after rolling about for more nor (than) half an hour, till I was quite kilt intirely, he plunged into the river, an' leaped over the bridge again, and at long last brought me to the foord, more dead than alive. " He then desired me to get off, which, you may be sure, he had not to repeat a second time. " ' Now, Larry Toomy,' sis he to me, ' I'm your wife's uncle, an' came here, an' * Little horse. TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 67 tuck the 'pearance of a horse, to meet you, an' punish you for your sever'ty to her about tobaccy. She had something else to mind to-day beside your smoaking ; an' if you struck her wid the stool, by this an' that,' sis he, ' there's not a stone in the bridge nor castle, where I always live, but I'd have marked wid your blood. Go home now, an' think ov this night, and let me hear no more complaints in future, for never fear I'll watch you, an' you know your doom.' " With that he instantly vanished, an' I returned home. Supper being ready, I sat down hungry an' tired, an' small blame to me ; but my wife remarking I did not speak, axed me the reason, so I tould her the whole story, went over to the dresser, an' swore on a prayer book I'd never put a pipe into my mouth again, which I have never done. " I sent home the unused pound ov tobacco, an' paid for the whisky : never again was cross to my wife." And now, gentle reader, you have the conclusion of the enchanted horse of Cloghleagh Castle. There were, I have been informed, some invidious persons, probably envious of our hero's reputation, who averred, that on the evening in question he was dis- covered near the Funcheon, in that glorious state which marks the distinction between a beggar and a queen ; and, in consequence, would consider his wonderful adventure with the enchanted horse as the result of spiritual imagination. This, however, is left to the sagacity of the reader, who, if indulgent, will consider it as malice prepense. THE HAUNTED HUNTSMAN. A TALE OF THE BLACKWATER SIDE. We had a fast run from Dunmahon to Moorpark, twice across the river Funcheon, and through the woods of Ballyclough. The hounds rattled the modkereen (fox) at such a clipping pace, he had not time to pick up a hen that crossed his path as he cantered among the fowl in Shawn Donoghue's farmyard ; and men, horses, and dogs had much inclination to say, " Hold, enough," when our gallant fox, after a burst of two hours and ten minutes (during which, out of a field of forty-five, only five lived to the end), bade us good night, by betaking himself to the deep earth just under the old castle in the Earl of Mountcashel's demesne. " What became of the fox, Brian ?" asked a youngster who made his debut with credit, but could not comprehend why we should part without his wearing the brush he so gallantly rode for. I loitered to hear the reply ; for Brian Hegarty, alias the " Haunted Huntsman," was a great humourist in his way. His answer is quite characteristic. " The fox, Master James, is now palliating himself, Sir, in his subterranean retrate." Leaving the fox in his " subterranean retrate," we moved out of covert of the 68 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE dark old wood ; and, leading our weary hunters down the steep defile to the wide- spread meadows of the Inch, the moon, scattering patches of silver around, pre- sented a scene strikingly beautiful. Over our heads towered the tall keep of the stately castle of Cloghleagh, flinging its shadow on many a fair rood of ground. No emblem of battle streamed in the night wind, but " For banner waved some rude wall flower." The hill on which the castle is built is thickly planted, and seemed in the haze of coming night a forest coeval with the time-worn walls. Many tasteful walks, judiciously formed, showed agreeable vistas amid the trees. From the base of the wooded hill spread a long level plain, through which the Funcheon flowed, groups of noble trees dotting the verdant lawns. We crossed a little bridge span- ning the river ; and having ascended the opposite hill, soon reached the hospitable walls of Mount Rivers. A pleasant party drew their chairs closer round the well-stored board after the ladies retired. Mine host is a favourable specimen of a fine Irish gentleman, though not of the olden time ; for his polished manners and conversation show nothing of the rough coarse habits of our forefathers. We had several sporting companions gathered from the field to the banquet, and amongst them our old friend, Captain Whackman. Wine now gave place to the more genial and congenial beverage yclept whisky punch ; and his fourth tumbler acted as the key to unlock the previously closed jaws of Captain Whackman. He became as remarkable for his volubility, as he had previously been for taciturnity, and rollicking tales of blood and battle, hair- breadth 'scrapes, " Moving accidents of flood and field," came from him in quick succession. Some one spoke of the proposed fancy ball at Cork. " By Jove, Sir," interposed our fat friend, " Great fun in a fancy," or, as he styled it, " a fashy ball." " Why," asked some dandy of dragoons, peering at the vulgar monster through an eyeglass, " pray were you" laying great emphasis on the words were you, " ever at a fancy ball ? " " Oh ! by this and that, I was, faith ! " " Where, Whackman ? let's have it ? " " With a heart and a half boys. Wait till I 'plenish the thimble : hand over the grocereis. Oh, that's the real perfume ! " and he sipped his glass with compla- cency. " You see, we were out hunting this way ; and sure enough, by the same token, I got a fall in the bogs beyant Wathergrasshill that mottled my new coat into TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 69 a rale piebald ; for when I was dhrawn out, one arm was dark brown, and so was one skirt, while the rest was a bright scarlet, only the first day's wear ; such a regular half and half you never saw, just like fair grog ; and laughing enough the boys had with me when I sat down to dine at Brooke Brasier's. " We finished a magnum of port, and a six-bottle cooper of claret, to say no- thing of half a dozen tumblers of ould Tommy Walker, and I fell asleep, when I got into the jaunting car that was sent to drive me home, for they knew where I was to dine, an' I used generally get comfortable there. But Brian Hegarty (your hunstman to-day, as honest a boy as ever broke bread) I fancy got a little com- fortable too : the night was dark, he said, for he turned his horse's head the wrong way, and, by Jove, when I awoke near twelve o'clock, instead of finding myself at my own demesne wall, going into Ballyhooly, where should I be but passing Glan- mire, and just entering the streets of Cork. " ' What place is this, Brian ? ' says I. " ' Why, then, what other place but Ballyhooly, Sir,' says he. " 'Brian, you omadhaivn*, do you call that the Blackwather ?' says I, pointing to the say. " < What else,' says he, ' if it isn't seeing double you are.' " I rubbed my eyes half in doubt, but I was too well acquainted with the lo- calities to have made a mistake. There was Blackrock Castle, and Loch Mahon, and Dunkettle, and the City. Brian had come to the same conclusion, and was muttering something about ' strange road, sure enough, Master right for once in his life,' when a chaise drew up. " ' Are you going any where ? ' said a voice familiar to me. " ' I am going home,' said I, innocently. " ' Home to Gurteen, and your back to it. Well, Whackman, that's a good one,' and my friend Ned Roche laughed long and loudly. " * Why,' said I, ' my stupid servant made a mistake, but if you'll sup with me at Lloyd's, we'll make the best of it.' " ' I can't,' he replied, ' for I'm engaged to a place where you'll be heartily wel- come, and I'll insure you to have amusement enough.' " ' Is it at this hour of night ? ' " ' Yes ! I'm going to a ball.' " < Where ? ' " ' Faith, I don't know the name of the lady, but I do the street — South Mall.' " ' Troth, you are very kind, to ask me to go to a house the mistress of which you don't know yourself,' said I. " * I never stand upon trifles ; you'll be heartily welcome.' * Silly person. 70 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE " ' Stay, there's a little obstacle to my going. I have no clothes, but what's on me ; ' an' I up and told him how I was out hunting in my new scarlet coat, and fell into the bog under Wathergrasshill, and got my coat piebald. " ' Stop,' says he, ' till I have a look at you.' " ' Who, in the name of the Saints, is your purty travelling companion, Roche ? ' I asked as the door opened, and a great brawny girl, with worsted stockings and big brogues*, having a basket of oranges slung over her shoulder, jumped on the ground. She dropped me a nice curtesy, crying, * Fine Cheney oranges — Cheney oranges,' till the cry might be heard in Blackpool. " ' Choke you, you b , you'll bring the watch about us,' I said ; ' can't you silence that clatter of a tongue of yours ? ' as she again raised the echoes. " ' I think I am not to say bad, Whack, my boy,' said my friend in his natural tone, I would not have known him, " * Why, bless my soul, Roche, what's the fun of this ? ' " l The ball is a fancy ball, and I see you'll do famously,' said he, surveying me. * I go as an orange girl, and you can give them a Tally Ho.' " ' Here goes,' said I, ' Yoicks Tally ! Tally ! Forward my honeys ! Hark For- ward ! ' and Roche in his turn had to cry for silence. " l Now we can bespeak beds at Lloyd's,' he said ; ' put up then, and my carriage can take us both to the ball.' " We drove into town, wet our whistles in some mulled port, and reached the South Mall. " There was no need to ask the house : the shouts of merriment that burst from the crowd before the door, greeting each character, as well as the lights blazing from cellar to garret, denoted it. Roche delayed for an instant, to write something on a card. He passed through the crowd with acclamation. I was greeted with great applause, and ' Three cheers, boys, for Captain Whackman, from Ballyhooly,' announced my name in the drawing-room ere the servants could have seen me. I found I was better known than I expected. ' How do you do, Captain Whack- man ? — How did you leave all friends in Ballyhooly ? ' followed on all sides. Such civility I never met ; and 'twas not confined to my own countrymen and women, no faith ! but Turkses, and Jewses, and peoples of all nations, came to inquire kindly, ' How was Captain Whackman from Ballyhooly ? ' I was considered the best character there ; and when I tallied a vixen fox (a pretty little slip of a colleen with red hair), and gave chase, for she cut and run like winken, begad! the room was bursting with laughter. ' Drag on her and find her, my darlings,' I shouted. ' Hark together ! together ! Away, away with her ! ' and breast-high I hunted till she gave in, and we danced the fox-hunter's jig till cock crow. So * Shoes. TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 71 you see, young man," said he, addressing the dragoon, " I'm more learned than you think." " So I perceive, indeed/' said the officer ; " but pray how did the characters all know you ? " " Wisha bad manners to you ; you must worm the little sacret out of me, I see. The rogue, Ned Roche, merely wrote on a bit of paper, and stuck it on my back, ' I'm Captain Whackman from Ballyhooly.' " THE HAUNTED HUNTSMAN. A LEGEND OF BLACKWATER SIDE. " You mentioned Brian Hegarty as having been your servant, Captain Whack- man ; perhaps you can tell me why he is called the Haunted Huntsman." I asked this because I was sure something worth hearing was to follow. I will give his reply as nearly as I can remember. " One would think 'twas leaky these tumblers of yours were," said he, holding up his to show its emptiness. " They hould mighty little, but it's all for the best, for then one gets a sup hot, you know," ad- dressing mine host. " I ask your pardon," says he, turning to me, — " Do I know why Brian Hegarty is called the Haunted Huntsman ? 'Tis I that do ; and why not ? he that lived with me, and his generation before him, man and boy, these hundred years, and, barring one thing, a better servant boy wasn't to be had, from Hill of Howth to Cape Clear, — and that's no stone's throw, I'm thinking. An honest, dacent, cute lad he cam to me, and, barring the dhrop, he was perfect ; but, between you and me, Sir, when a man gets fond of that, one can't answer for him ; and as I must tell the truth, Brian's love for the dhrop made him very irregular in his habits, and if I gave him a message in a hurry before breakfast in the morning, I was in luck if I had him back to 'tend table at dinner. He was a kind-hearted fellow as you'd meet in a month of Sundays ; and as he had acquaintance plenty as blackberries, he never wanted a companion in idleness, if he wanted any other excuse. The well-known reasons for drinking answered him exactly — ' A friend — a bottle — being dry — The fear of being so by and by, Or any other reason why.' If he stayed out the livelong day, and night after, as he often did, he never was at a loss for an excuse. My heart was often broke with him ; but, though he'd fret a saint, I could never part with him. Indeed, I tried once, but he would not go. ' If you don't know,' said the blackguard, ' when you have a good servant, I know when I have a good masther, so here I stick, plase God.' " His accomplishments were various. He could drive a coach and four — ride a horse from the time the bit was put in his mouth till he became a trained hunter — bleed, physic, dress him — train him for a race or steeple-chase — hunt a pack 72 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE of hounds, as all of ye know, how hounds ought to be hunted ; and I think ye'll be inclined to admit, a fairer boy to ride across a country never crossed a horse. He leaped the demesne wall of Kilshaine, after all but Frank Denneley sneezed at it ; and knew my ways so well, that I could not do without him at all at all. A few friends dropped in to take pot-luck with me one day, and I had plenty of spirits, but was out of sugar and wine. You know there is no wine to be had in Ballyhooly, so I desired Brian to clap a saddle upon Botheen, and canter into Fermoy for half- a-dozen of port and some lemons and sugar, and to put plenty of straw in the hamper to wrap about the bottles, lest they should be broke. ' Now,' said I, i if you make any delay — it is now three o'clock, and the gentlemen will be expecting dinner between five and six — by all that's good and bad, I'll break every bone in your skin, and make you walk out of my house after ; so you know what's before you, if you are not back against five.' " < Is it me, Sir, to make any delay ? — well, now, that bangs Banagher, any how. I'll be back in the crack of a whip.' He soon appeared on the back of Botheen, galloping towards Fermoy. " Five o'clock came, but no Brien — six o'clock — and Molly Regan, the cook, said, 'The mutton was biled, and the praters would be a mash if they warn't taken off the fire.' " ' Who's to put the dinner on the table ? ' said I, ' for Brian Hegarty is gone to Fermoy.' " ' Faix, then, 'twill be the could dinner before he puts it an,' said my comfort- ress, ' the lazy lout.' " ' Call in Terry Ryan from the garden,' said I. " She ran out, but Terry was gone to the mountain for turf, and Molly, the cook, had to act as butler. Despite my chagrin, the guests seemed to feel per- fectly comfortable. I had some excellent Black water cider Frank Drew sent me from Macollip, that all declared they preferred to Ruinart's champagne, and in copious libations of grog they seemed to forget there was such a liquid as wine in the world. " The night was warm, and the jug of hot water sending its curling smoke to TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 73 the roof, like a pillar of cloud, caused a wish to have a taste of the window opened. I complied, and my ears were regaled by a voice singing loudly down the avenue — ' Sporting, belleing, dancing, drinking, Breaking windows, rattling, sinking, Ever raking — never thinking, Live the rakes of Mallow. ' Spending faster than it comes, Beating peelers, watch, and duns, Duhallow's true-begotten sons, Live the rakes of Mallow.' " ' Here comes some wine, boys,' said I. ' This is my rascally servant, whom I despatched into Fermoy, at three o'clock in the day, for some wine for you, and here he comes at three in the morning.' " ' I'll bet you five to one without a drop,' said the Neal, ' and that he gives such an excuse, you are not angry with him.' " ' Done ! ' I answered ; ' the drunken scoundrel never does what I bid him ; and I am quite certain he can give no excuse to prevent my being angry with him.' " Meanwhile the vocalist turned round the road to the stables ; and as he swung to and fro to steady himself, it was quite evident he was not sober. I heard him, still supporting his character for melody, returning from the stables — ' Living short but merry lives, Going where the devil drives, Keeping ' " * I'll keep you no more in my service, Brien Hegarty, you infernal rascal ! ' I shouted, as he entered the room. " ' Asy, Sir ; don't be angry with me, masther dear ! may whisky be my poison if ' " ' It will be your destruction, you scoundrel ; leave my sight, you leave my service in the morning.' " ' Whist, Sir, don't let the gentlemen hear you speaking so foolish.' " ' Foolish ! but I am foolish in speaking to a drunken vagabond. I'll listen to none of your excuses, pack yourself off. — Stay, where's the wine ? ' I observed he brought in his basket. " ' Wine ! troth, yes. Oh, millia murther, see what happened through the manes of it ? ' and he showed the fragments of a half dozen bottles, broken into a thousand pieces. " * Now have I not reason to be angry ? ' and I turned triumphantly to O'Neal — ' I'll thank you for your five pounds.' 74 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE " ' Nay,' said he, ' I have won as yet — Brien returned you 'em without a drop.' " ' But I am angry with him.' " ' You have not heard his excuse.' " * Excuse,' said Brien, ' that he hasn't ; ' and, turning to me, ' As for your honour being angry with me, don't let that distress you. I don't blame your ho- nour for being angry with me at all, not in the least ; sure it's quite natural — having the quality to dine with you, and no regular man-servant to 'tend table, barring Molly the cook. But you see, when you hears me, as his worthy honour Doctor O'Neal says, you'll allow it's more to be pitied than blamed I am.' " ' Go on,' said I, impatiently. " ' Just what I said myself to Botheen, after leaving Fermoy ; I did not take above half an hour from the time I got the commands to enter the town, and that was the curious town. All our sogers — red coats here, and blue coats there — bristling with bayonets, guns, and swords — bands rattling, and bugles playing — Captain O'Flanagan, wid Ginerals an' Corporals all round, waiting his orders — 'twould delight your sowl to be listening to the music. — 'Tis a pity myself arn't a soger. I lost no time, you may be sure, in going to the grocer's, and packing my bottles with plenty of hay, as your honer tould me, and left the place. Go on, Botheen, said I, shaking the switch ; and we got on famously, till we reached Glenabo. As we got on the hill, which is skirted by the woods on both sides of the road, the place looked very lonesome. I stopped for an instant, as the moon was rising, and beheld Castle Hyde forenent me at the other side of the river, looking very grand, with the tall black woods behind it, and far away the blue mountains of the Gualty's, over all, crowning the sight. Behind me was Cairn Thierna, rising like a great giant in the sky, and I saw the heaps of stones on the top, looking like human craturs. I thought of the quare story they tell about the place ; how the lord's son was to be drownded, and how the father was building the castle for him atop of the hill, and how he tuk him to see it one day, and the poor gossoon * went to look into the big tub, where they wet the lime for mortar, and saw, as he thought, another little boy in the tub, and climbed in to play with him, and got drownded ; and how the stones quarried for the castle remain on the top of the hill to this day. These thoughts gave me the lowness, so I stopt for a minute at Paddy Foley's shibeen house, to take a darby, and met Mick Hegarty, my first cousin's nephew — a good boy. 'Twas getting darkish as I rode along, and I must have missed the boughereen\ somehoAv, for I beheld the tall castle of Ballyhooly rising from the rock over the Blackwater, and was just turning back, when the most extraordinary thing happened that ever was. I often heard tell of Small boy. f Little road. TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 75 such, but gave no credit to it — I thought it was all sharaos, mere old woman's talk, but sure enough, the headless horseman of Glenabo was close by my side. Oh, Sirs ! in pity's sake reach me your hand, for I'm wake as wather at the remim- brance of it.' (I mixed him a drop of hot.) * Your health, gentlemen. The horse the headless man was riding was black as the raven's wing, but the main and tail milk white — a tall strong horse, and went like the wind. The rider appeared a stout built man, and sat his horse with a sure seat, much like your honour, and never shook in his place, though he had no stirrups. Poor Botheen trembled like one in the ague, and snorted loudly. We trotted fast back, but the unnatural man and horse kept by our side. At last, wishing to see how he would reply, I said, " Why, thin, it must be distressing to your honer to ride without stirrups." " ' " True for you, Brien Hegarty," was the reply from his coat pocket ; and oh ! that I should live to see the sight, his ugly head grinned from the pocket hole. " ' That's a snug horse you ride, Sir,' said I. " ' " He has carried me well many a long day and night," replied the head in the pocket hole. " ' May be he was a hunter in his day,' I asked inquiringly. " s " As good as ever was lapped in leather," said the headless. " ' Can he go the pace now ? ' I inquired. " ' "Faster than it would be convenient for you to keep up with, my joker," replied he. " * My blood was up, Sir, at these words : I considered the credit of the family at stake, to say nothing of Botheen. "If my master was to the fore," said I, "you'd see whether I could keep up to you or not." a i u Why, and what could your master do, my lad ? " asked he. " ' He could give me permission to gallop a mile across the country with you, and see which was best ; but of course I would not take on me to run the chance of injuring his horse, not to say delaying his wine for dinner, and quality to dine with him — I'm late enough as it is, so good-by to you.' " ' " Not so fast, Brien Hegarty," said the headless horseman, in a commanding tone. " I'm master here, and do you gallop a mile with me, and I'll save you harmless ; for if your master dares lay a wet finger on you, when you go back to Gurteen, I'll bring him to the very fence where I broke my own neck, when I was huntsman to the first Duhallow hunt, in the time of George the First that was king, God be merciful to him I pray, and he shall share my fate." " ' God forbid, thought I to myself, but as I'm in for it this way or that way, I don't mind letting Botheen take a few fences ; the hunting season is nigh, and 'twill harden the mate on his carcass for the master.' " ' " Away," says Headless, and away we went over the boughereen, in a fly, through the big inches, over ditch and wall, as if both horses had wings. A running 76 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE brook was in front, Botheen flew over it like a bird. Headless brought his horse to the brink, but he turned tail, he refused to jump it. Beat — fairly beat, I exclaimed.' a t it B r i en Hegarty," said Headless, " you have won, I confess, and have a bold seat, and a sure hand. 'Tis over a hundred years since I broke my neck, in Castle Hyde deer park, where I was huntsman to the Duhallow hounds, and ever since I have been riding the road to get a man to ride a mile with me, and never succeeded till this night. You have dissolved the spell that kept me on the weary road, and deserve all the good I can give you. Fear no danger from man or beast. Ride with the tail-hound, never flinch from ditch, wall, or timber ; and as you stood to me, I'm the man that will stand to you." " ' But the master,' said I, ' he'll be my death — it's now very late, I'm thinking.' " ' " Tut, you fool !" says he ; " 'tis the master will be proud of you. Haven't you won a steeple-chase to-night such as no mortal ever rode before. Give him my compliments," said he, " with this note, and if he gives you a cross look after that, I'll scarify him." ' " A shout of triumph broke from O'Neal. " ' Well, I forgive you, rather than incur the headless man's anger,' I said, i so go to bed now,' and making a bow, he disappeared. ' But what's this ? ' — and I read the following from my grocer : — " ' Captain Whackman, " < Sir, " ' Your messenger reached this at eight o'clock, so drunk, that I placed some empty bottles in the basket to pacify him, or I could not get rid of him. I was not able to procure a messenger at that hour, or should send the wine per order, which hope you will excuse. I shall have it sent early to-morrow. " ' Your obedient servant, " « T. Rice.' " ' Now,' said I, ' is he not a precious rascal ? ' " ' A d d clever fellow at an excuse,' roared all. " * Who has won the bet ? ' asked O'Neal. " ' Have I not reason to be angry with him,' said I. " ' Why, you have just forgiven him.' " ' He brought no wine,' said O'Neal. " ' I think,' said Campion, who dined with us, ' it's better both be off. No doubt he did not bring a drop ; but then, Whackman had fair reason to be angry, whatever pleasure we may feel, and in recollection of the capital excuse the fellow made out, I propose we drink, Repose to the shade of the Haunted Huntsman.' TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 77 " The toast was drunk with all the honours, and ever since Brien goes by the name of the Haunted Huntsman." Next to Mount Rivers, on the north bank, is Rockview, the residence of the Rev. James Mockler ; a gentleman to whom antiquarians are much indebted for his zeal in collecting our national curiosities, and who has a choice collection of Irish works. I gladly take this opportunity of making my best acknowledgments for the readiness with which he rendered me all the assistance I sought while compil- ing this work. There is in his domain an interesting ruin, finely situated on a rock near the river. This is the castle of Lisclash, and was built by the Condons. Near it is a rath or fort, in Irish Lis* Here the victorious Irish encamped after the battle just mentioned ; and the following extract from the Earl of Castlehaven's Memoirs, with which the Rev. Mr. Mockler furnished me, shows it was again visited by troops two years later. " April, 1645. — I followed slowly (from Mitchelstown), and coming to the Black- water, near the ford of Fermoy, drew my foot and cannon into an old Danish fort, Ireland being full of them ; and having stayed there a good while, and hearing no news of my horse, I began to be uneasy. * The Lisclash estate was granted by patent, in the 14th of Charles L, to Henry Headley, and it has ever since remained in the possession of his descendants. The patent included the lands of Downing and Ballyvoluck on the Funcheon. 78 HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE GUIDE * * Finding by the track that my horse had passed the ford, and taken their way towards Castle Lyons, I followed. Being come near the top of the hill above the ford, I left those few I had with me drawn up, and, with some officers, went myself to a height to discover. There I saw all the enemy formed in a great plain with a scrub of wood before them, and my horse in great haste marching through to charge, having with them 100 commanded foot. But the enemy, seeing the squadrons broken as they came on the plain, gave them no time to form, but charged and defeated them. * Hence I marched to Mallow." This is called by Smith, the Battle of Castle Lyons. A ruin now attracts attention on the south bank — Carrig-a-brick Castle — another of the strongholds of the Condons. The well-cultivated land is here farmed by Dr. Roche of Fermoy. Near it Mill Bank, D. Reid, Esq. of John Allen, Esq. Opposite is Rathealy, Mrs. Lucas's house. Close to Fermoy is Monabeg, the pretty seat FERMOY AND ITS ENVIRONS. Fermoy, a market and post town, in the barony of Condons and Clangibbons, is beautifully situated on the river, lying chiefly in a valley surrounded by hills, between which the river glides. It bears the same name as an extensive barony in the county of Cork, which, in former times, was denominated Glean na Mkain, or Magh na Feine, i. e. the sacred plain, or plain of the learned. About the year TO THE RIVER BLACKWATER. 79 254, Fiach Muillethan, king of Munster, bestowed the greater part of this country on the Druid, Mogruith, from whom it obtained the name of Dal-Mogruith. The druid, on coming into possession of this country, converted it into a kind of sanc- tuary, and on the high land which bounds it erected a number of altars and places of worship, some of which yet remain, hence called Magh Feine, or the sacred plain. The inhabitant was called Fier Magh Feine, or the man of the sacred plain, or Fier Magh, whence Fermoy.* The next account connects this place with religion in a purer form. A Cistertian abbey, called " Our Lady de Castro Dei," was founded here, in 1270, according to an Irish MS., though Archall, in his Monasticon Hibernicum, p. 69., mentions the prior in 1226. The founder was Sir Richard de Rupella, who was Lord Justice of Ireland in 1261. The monks were brought hither from Suir Abbey, in the county of Tipperary, and afterwards they received an accession of members from Furness Abbey in Lanca- shire. In 1591, a grant was made by Queen Elizabeth to Sir Richard Grenville, Knt., and his heirs, of this monastery, and the lands appurtenant, containing by estimate 550 acres, at the rent of 15/. 185. Ad. Irish money. These lands were afterwards assigned by the Lord Treasurer of England to Sir George Harvey, for the use of the first Earl of Cork, who purchased them and several lands in Fermoy from Sir Bernard Grenville. A large stone bridge was built over the river here, with thirteen arches, anno 1689, and cost 7500/. In the struggle to keep James II. on the throne, this place became the scene of a conflict. In January, 1691, the frish, by the arrival of Tyrconnel, Nugha, Rice, and others from France, having received fresh supplies of arms and other neces- saries, were encouraged (being straitened in their quarters) to try their fortune by the enlargement of their frontiers. Their main design was upon Fermoy and Ballymore ; the first, because of its stone bridge on the Blackwater, was esteemed a very considerable pass. The fortifications were slight, and the garrison not numerous ; their strength consisted chiefly of two field pieces, which gave them more reputation than force : this place was attacked by Brigadier Carroll and 1500 of the enemy ; but the Danes, who had the guard of it, defended it very well, and Colonel Donop, with fifty of his horse an