Ronk Tgg CQFmiGtfr DEPOsrr. / s .- Xhe Practical f^otel Steward By JOHN TELLMAN. Published by THE HOTEL MONTHLY 325 Dearborn St., CHICAGO. ^IFOtJJ. O ^ -i O By l_ibp«ry of Coo--'<'i«s Two Copies Rect' to JUL 16 1900 SECOND COPY. ORDER DiV'StOS. JUL 25 1900 P •HI > IDEAL KITCHEN. m P/\N V^f^SHER^ I f , Jo- jbmpanying plan iMustrates a kitchen lo detached building and supposed to be i given a first consideration in t&e build- hotei. ed above the basement, or on th« second as nothing but the ceiling and roof above /faciiitating arrangements for ample ven- la the structure bein^ away from the main ^ kitchen fun>es will penetrate the hotel. jior is finished in enameled tile or brick. 4d floor. There are no partition walls.ex- Hone back of the range which is of brick. krtitions seperatingthe different depart- ist of a sheet iron Iwse three feet high nted with wire screen. Ihereisiio wood en except the table tops and the liuin; t sinks and ice boxes, which makes it an to keep til e room clear of roaches and rniin »rd can stand in anyone place in the kit- t what is going on ererywhere in tlie room, ing only one entrance and exit for em- leans of an iron stairway tive feet wide, sy for anyone to come and go from the oticed s kitchen (or in the basement) »re the g rooms, the storerooms and the waiters" >ms. n and light are by means of windows a et from the floor on the sides, and by loors or hatches in the ceiling, permitting »f heat and smoke through the ventilators !a hip roof. I would have the kitchen opaque glass and guarded with wire ifange is a large cap or hood to carry off i smell, arising from the cooking, through warmer I would have not over four feet high by two and a half feet wide, and ong, the two fronts of steel rolling blinds. t'9i/'i1 opened there is no obstruction of view r^/^ U it will be noticed, are arranged against »e sinks for two departments being to- _to require as little plumbing as possible -Served from the cold meat room. ' /feck is located conveniently under the ?. It is built in partitions to hold three [itanding on the edce. KEY TO DIAGR.AM steamers g Cake and toast range to Pudding warmer 1 1 StairwaV •<> low er floor 13 Egg boiler closets 13 Roll warmer 14 Salad service i^ugh 15 Silver cleaning room ilers and steamers S PA C £. I this plan will show to anyone exper :hen work, that there is plenty of room • ^.f ■> y T^-rT -^^- f'^erything handy, so to speak, and ^fTS can make their round and secure /Vl /4 / i\l *'''''^"' confusion or hindrance. red or more people can be served from Ipthes izfhute P/\N WASHERS Y<<1^^^^^''^^^' VEGETABLE ROON\ -2 / KITCHC/V DINlt^Q ROOM tCB B0)( 1 DD; RANQE 27/5// HE/\r£:.H Comhinti ICL Boy. J DIS H TfKBLE fpTsTP \w/\sH//rc 3 J z THAY f^ACK ONOtn ro^Ti/V^ TA0I.S PAsiRy moM c 'GLASS PANTRY 5 3 \f\ ^^r^ \ OPSJV SPACE SEP- >>> ^^^ y ^TTry y 'Ar//va THE K I TC H £ /\f /\AMN DINING ROOM > ? ^ ^ / // / ^ ^ ^ J ^ ^ ^^y^.^ y/ / /y / ^ // ^ ^ ^ ? ^ ^ ^ ^ / ^ 'ZZZZZZ AN IDEAL KITCHEN. Designed by John Telliiian for "The Practical Hotel Steward.' The accompanying plan illustrates a kitchen lo cated in a detached building and supposed to be designed and given a first consideration in the build- ing of a new hotel. It is located above the basement, or on tlie second floor, and has nothing but the ceiling and roof above it, thereby facilitating arrangements for ample ven- tilation; and the structure being away from the main building, no kitchen fumes will penetrate tlie hotel. The interior is finished in enameled tile or brick, and has tiled floor. There are no partition walls. ex- cepting the one back of the range, which is of brick. All other partitions seperating the diff'erent depart- ments consist of a sheet iron base three feet high and surmounted with wire screen. I'here isiio wood in the kitchen except the table tops and the lining of the large sinks and ice boxes, which makes it an easy matter to keep the room clear of roaches and all other vermin. The steward can stand in anyone place in the kit- chen and see what is going on everywhere in the room. There being only one entrance and exit for em- ployes, by means of an iron stairway five feet wide, it is not easy for anyone to come and go from the kitchen unnoticed. Below the kitchen (or in the basement) Ire the help's dining rooms, the storerooms and the waiters' dressing rooms. Ventilation and light are by means of windows a- bout four feet from the floor on the sides, and by large drop doors or hatclies in the ceiling, permitting the escape of heat and smoke through the ventilators at the top of a hip roof. I would have the kitchen windows of opaque glass and guarded with wire netting. Over the range is a large cap or hood to carry off the smoke or smell, arising from the cooking, through the chimney. The plate warmer I would have not over four feet eight inches high, by two and a half feet wide, and twenty feet Tong, the two fronts of steel rolling blinds, so that when opened there is no obstruction of view overhead. The sinks, it will be noticed, are arranged against partitions, the sinks for two departments being to- gether so as to require as little plumbing as possible. Salads are served from the cold meat room. The tray rack is located conveniently under the sorting table. It is built in partitions to hold three trays each, standing on the edge. KEY TO DIAGRAM. 1 Vegetable steamers 9 Cake and toast range 2 Tables 10 Pudding warmer 3 Sinks II Stairway to lower floor 4 Ice boxes 12 Egg boiler 5 Cooks' clothes closets 13 Roll warmer 6 Garbage chute 14 Salad service 7 Baker's trough 15 Silver cleaning room 8 Pastry boilers and steamers A glance at this plan will show to anyone exper- ienced in kitchen work, that there is plenty of room for the workers, everything handy, so to speak, and that the wtf'ters can itialce tlieir round and secure their orders without confusion or hindrance. Five hundred or more people can be served from this kitchen. IDEAL KITCHEN BASEMENT. iK'Kianed by John TMllman. for The Practlc*! Uol«l SMwMd " The accompanying design presents the basement plan of the ideal kitchen (illustrated on preceding page) and belongs to the steward's or working de- partment, of the hotel. Tiie floors arc all of concrete or cement; the par- titions of brick and tile, excepting the help's kitchen. which is partitioned with sheet iron and wire. The waiters' dressing room is arranged with fifty ckers in which they can hang their clothes. A ith. niljoiniiig the toilet, opens into this room and IS for their exclusive use. The helps hall (separate men's and Rii is' dcpu t- mcnts) islaiRP enough to act uniniod.ite sixty men and thirty live girls at one seating in the two rooms. In the entrance way, at the point whei c the w.ii( li man is located, all tho help of both the back lul front part of ihc house enter and leave thron: 'i i turnstile governed by the watclunan. and ar<' sub jtct to his scrutiny. No one can come or go wiilioui exhibiting an employe's pass The receiving door opens into the store room an and thirty five girls at one seating in the two rooms. \ / In the entrance way, at the point where the watch- / man is located, all the help of both the back and front part of the house enter and leave through a turnstile governed by the watchman, and are sub- ject to his scrutiny. No one can come or go without exhibiting an employe's pass The receiving door opens into the store room and is under the control of the steward and receiver. The beam of the wagon scale is controlled in the receiving room. The receiving room is partioned off with glass, af- fording a view of the store room. The ice plant is large enough for all cooling pur- poses in kitchen, pantry and storage, and makes enough ice for all other purposes. The drinking water for the dining room and guests in their rooms is congealed in the bottles from which it is served, instead of Uie old-style pitcher service with broken ice and water. The ice cream plant is also located in this depart- ment. The fuel for the kitchen is brought by the kitchen fireman through a passageway behind the watch- man's stand, the door of which is controlled by the ivatchman. AUGUST 1896. DATE LOINS REMARKS: ViZl IM 2;. I STEWARDS' REPORT for week ending- August 19, 1896. ITEMIZED S TATI-.MENT OF DAILY ISS The making of different kinds of reports d while others require more detailed report, s how much it requires of each kind of mate each guest; how many pounds of loins, ribs butter, dozen eggs, gallons milk, etc., and t cent, used for each guest. To make such a regularly requires an extra book as illu above. AMT. COST. PER CAPITA AMT. 1 Inc. DEC 23;t 34 9b .0272 58.S 73 lb .0571 178 13 48 .0105 9( n 28 .0088 723 51 17 .0422 224 41 55 .0324 480 52 51 .0409 8!» 93 .0702 60 94 .0475 .5fi 80 .0434 73 05 .0.571 113 35 .0884 173 49 .1.354 13.5 79 .1059 .7670 984 35 Loins — Ribs tTeal Pork autton 8eef tenderloin Poultry liame -Hisc. meats Ailk and cream lysters i-ish i'egctables ruits rooeries ;ggrs and butter 'otal issues otal house count for seven days 1281. )ost per capita S.7684. THE STEWARDS REPORT. The "steward's report, " illustrated above, is on the desire of the management. The n^ken from this "Itemized Statement of Daily Issues" desire to know only how much it costs for eacfook and shows the per capita cost of each of the jfincipal articles of consumption, as, for instance, , 16 first entry "Loins" shows for the week "233 lbs." ,t a cost of *34.95, which sum, divided by 1,281, the ggregate of the week's house count, shows the loins 5 have cost only about 2% cents per capita per day; nd so on for the balance of the report. The differ- nce of the per capita total of $76.84 on the "Itemized tatement ' book and the per capita total $76.70 of This book is folio page about twenty-two Ug stg^vard's report, is simply in the non-extension across by sixteen inches deep. It is ruled in s[ fractional parts of cents too small for computation vertical department columns and eight hor i a report of this kind. AUGUST 1896. ITEMIZED STATEMENT OF DAILY ISSUES RVI 1» 2 DATE IX)INS HI US VBAIi PORK MUTTON BKEF TORLiOlN POULTKV GAME Mi^r mkat.s MILK ANP '■KKAM niTT FISH K T .50 10 V GTBLsIgROC'RIES sundries por^^ay 13 I'il I.) H au 64 11.'. 107 X o:> 49 CI 11 2il •:6 2 CI) 1 4( «l » 4r, .'t 20 20 to 8 &n 5 I 70 10 9 47 ♦. 0: 29 /5 ;; «; ?.) r,4 // ■>u 100 «(, .s Oil — -' oil -- ~ — ""l — :-.' .<■: 9 HI, T~' ■>l> I.tS im It 5t r. in I-;:: 15 w ;xi... '•' 00 11 .Ml h 12 25 m 7.'> 6 5 15 95 :s 2 14 1 90 82 85 •:h — ^ III ;.) .■>■> 11' L' is:i 21 r,ii II T, <", ■•1. ^ .V ;.( .S' IJ /(/ ■-■> .S2 llo .i/ 15 di ion I no 211 ^' II :ii vr. t 10 44 s 2- 1: 20 »l no 0« H 'J' 11 50 90 25 15 50 50 6 1:' 86 9:i 54 75 .V ;cj """■ •iO ^™" IS ~ 14 .v-^ CO 'JO ■"" /) /// X i';^ ;\ It. " .'« /•-• «i 16 llil 2;* «s v.r> «> 1« .')« R 4n 119 M 8)i fiO ■1 4 S."i '.IS 20 9 OS III K.i .. 70 21 2 50 50 11 5 50 40 4 14 10 1:'. .51' ,y ■/(' /; s> -.', /i •/r /.! Hi ;y 0: /" ;n .'( :/ ■i4 ;« 2.'» ./(/ 131 ;.? 17 "'■' K k;. Kill r; Wl .'II ( IIS 'ili^ 1 li S'.l i 1 l!.-| •I'.i 1' (i: no li ;i;i 1 08 52 8 47 :: (ill 1-4 40 11 20 11 50 75 5 2 60 2 9 9 2 99 27 04 Til S .S.i /•.' .VI 4 «/^ ;.>' ;/.s' :. >y J.-, 24 «•! IK «rt IK it: .'>! t 4 ' .■>^ '.I 4'.l — - 20 14 •ill 50 50 .'III :«i s 4.'. ■>ll 11 4 ■>') 90 IK, (1 ni .V5 19 1: 2,S t!l »■-' .■)!! i 1: ;f; i< .s: c 14 10 K 20 20 Vi 00 8 00 :\ 50 so 25 I Cll 9 8 2 82 58 04 50 ?1 M « — ?; ., ."■' •/ ;.< i; .S.i ?" VJ >. :"i ^1 _^ ■■< m 4 2.5 ; «(/ ■>-. ii4 /?; .'« DT /.-J ;;s ;. ^.^ !/J II ;»> :;>.,■ ,3; /; 2l'J 41 5.3 4H0 m 61 HII .'« W< •J4 r;.i 7« 5« XII in .•(.: TV «.5 i:i 4fi 9H4 .?o Total cost of lli'st aeven uuIumiiK Total cost of meats 281 09 371 02 Total columns 9 to 15 $613 3H Total house count for week (seven days) 1281 Cost per capita $.7684 STEWARDS' REPORT for week ending August 19, 1896. ARTICLK. AMT. COST. FER CAPITA AMT. iNC DEC Loins 23;i 34 95 .0272 Ribs 585 73 15 .0571 Ve*I 178 13 48 .0105 Pork 91 11 28 .0088 Mutton 72; 54 17 .0422 Beef tenderloin 224 41 55 .0324 Poultry 480 52 51 .0409 Game Misc. meats Hll 93 .0702 Milk and cream 60 94 .0475 Oysters Fish 56 80 .04.14 Vegetableg 73 05 .0571 Fruits 113 35 .0884 Groceries 173 49 .1.354 Vggtt and butter 13.% 79 .1059 .7670 Total Issues 984 36 Total house count for seven days 1281. Cost per capita 1.7684. IIRMIZKI) SIATKMKNT OK D.MLY ISSUES. ■Ihe making of diffi-rcnt kinds of reports depends on tho desire of ,1,.. nuinngement. Tlie majority 'les.rc to know only liow mud. it costs for each guest, |vl..le others reci.iuMnoro detailed report, such as '^o^v much i, requires of each kind of material for "ch guest ; how n,any pounds of loins, ribs, sausage utter, do^en eggs, g,,lions milk, etc., and the per "m.u.edforeach,uest. To make such a report ablve. ' '''"''" '" '"''' ''°°' '^ illustrated ^c!ZlT '"' '°"° '''' '''•^"' twenty-two inches V ra ;'"""""''^^''^'=''- ^' -"led in Sixteen department columns and eight horizontal spaces, seven of which are for days of the week and one for "remarks." Each vertical department is subdivided into two columns for quantities and prices, for instance: t lo first entry on the first line under head of "R'bs ■•!.: lbs." at a cost of •■.^15. . 4. ' and under head ol ••mutton" "IIS lbs." at cost of "$8.05 " and "W lbs- at cost of ••.^7-49. • the total cost of mutton fo. t .^ day (.August 13) being $ISS4 [AH totals in «*''*^^' J^'^ tration are printed in italic figures.l The ^°^'' J° ^^ of all issues for the day is shown in the en $153.00 in the 16th column. ^ All the items in this book are copied and .n^--^-'-^ from the regular issue book. In making this report I have invariably found it desirable to separate the meats from the rest of the supplies, as shown in the "Remarks" space, where the total cost for the week of the first seven columns 's fa8i.o9. and of all meats, (including miscellaneous meats in the eighth column) to be $371 02 The total of the rest of the supplies (columns 9 to »S) is shown to be $613.33 and the grand total of the sixteen columns is $984 35- e will suppose the house count averaged 183 a ay during the week, or a total of 1,281 for the week. •vide $984 (the grand total of issues for the week) ' 1.281 (the house count for the week) and the "u t IS a fraction over 765^ cents per capita a day. THE STEWARDS REPORT. The "steward's report," illustrated above, is taken from this •Itemized Statement of Daily Issues" book and shows the per capita cost of each of the principal articles of consumption, as, for instance, the first entry ••Loins" shows for the week •'233 lbs." at a cost of $34. 95. which sum, divided by 1,281, the aggregate of the week's house count, shows the loins to have cost only about 2% ct-nts per capita per day ; and so on for the balance of the report. The differ- ence of the per capita total of $76.84 on the "Itemized .Statement " book and the per capita total $76 70 of the steward's report, is simply in the non-extension of fractional parts of cents too small for computation in a report of this kind. miNiioD y r iVMinj joyoso y/NA/JlO'3 v lDN3lAJ310aa QJldVlQ la W. H. BENDER W.J.QUNNING C.CLARKE. L.W.HOHLER THCO, PETIT IDKAS IN SETtING A BANQUET TABLE A Pittoriitl F.vprtssion of Ike Art of lUinqurt Cater in^ by Sti'frtil (Itnllemfii I'romiHtnl in the Hotel, Nestiiuriint mid Cliih World (Hvo putfolT.) W. H. BKNOKK W. M. IJcmliT, caloriT the Richelieu, Chicago. Naplun ill plain fold on plate. Pluto one Inch from eilKi- iif table and knives and forkg in line. Oyster fork beiiii; lirst to be used Is laid crosswise with pnniKS loiuhinK the bowl of the soup spoon. Much silver on the table ia confnslnR to the diner, there fore put on only such as is required, and replenish as the meal proRresses. No butter. Oo not load the labU- with condiments and relishes but liavetheni passed artnind. It spoils the appearance of the table to hide the cloth under a profusion of ware. I BooquKt 6 Halt 1 l.iiiito folk iiiul l\»li fork II C'hiiiii|>n4(id. « CbuinpaKDe 1 3kiilvoii. a forkii. an oyster 7 White wine fork and soup 8|ioon. 8 8herry I Napkin R. G. CLARKE. R. G. Clarke, manager Kinsley's: For six course dinner. A simple decoration of loose flowers. Nap- kin artislically folded on plate. Oysters to come after guest is seated. Bread sticks and pulled bread laid on the table cloth. Glasses arranged in curve and so placed as to show a distinct row of each par- ticular kind of glass lengthwise of the table. Oyster fork, which is the first to be used, is laid to right of plate over and crosswise of the knives. I Oelory i Hri>ad Rtlokii » I'uUtM bn>ad 4 Salt ■tinker and |>epper 6 Ur knlfo " Soup spoon 8 Mtb kntr« L W. KOHLER L. W Kohler, steward Chicago Beach Hotel. Napkin on plate. Would have three dishes of olives on the table and salt shaker and pepper for every U 3 steel blade knives 10 •> h. »vy iii,.«t riirks,a Bab fork fame fork and a salad fork 11 Hatter 1.' Water 1.1 ('liampairne 14 Clurei 15 sbeiry two. But very little silver on the table, but lots on sideboard. No teaspoons until required. 1 Butter knlfe.soup spoon and 3 Champacno larKe knife 4 Clarrt > 07*ter fork and lar^e fork 6 Hauterne H Water THEO. PETIT. Theo. Petit, caterer, formerly with Spiers & Pond. Paris: late proprietor of the Restaurant Francais. at the Wid-Winter Fair, San Francisco: Napkin on plate. No water. Sherry to go with oysters : claret with the fish and entiees: champagne with the roast. One salt shaker and one pepper to do service for four diners, but prefer castor for all condiments. Bread in large filatters. Tea spoons and other silver passed as required during the meal. 1 nHb knife larxe fork S Lance knife 4 champarne 5 Oyster fork, soup spoon and 6 Claret B Sberrr W. O. COLENfAN. W. O. Coleman, manager Burley & Co.'s hotel de- partment: Should be centerpieces. Two large salad castors on the table. Oyster and dinner plates. Bread and small patty of butter on a plate Napkin in long fold to right of plate. 1 Oyster plate on dinner platelU Salad fork 2 Brvad and butter plate 1 1 Tea and coffee spooni 3 Napkin 12 China salt celery dip not « Bread and butter knife-pearl orer \\i Inch hlK>> and handle with funcy shaped staodInK In a little plate blade 13 Cut glass pepper siiaker 6 Dessert knife— plated bladeU Water • Heat knife— steel blade 15 Claret 7 Oyster fork lii Cbampacne 8 Soap spoon 17 Port B Larire fork D. L. STAPLES. D. L. Staples, headwaiter the Auditorium, Chicago . Leave oysters off until guests are seated Place everything where it comes most handy (or the diner. A salt shaker for two. or a salt cellar for each one. One pepper for four 1 IndlTlduitl <i»!r uud Halt 9 Soup spoon 4 Ituttcr 10 Water 5 Two tea Spoons 11 Chuiupagne t1 Meal knife, butter spreader. 13 Claret dusnort kiiifit 13 Port J. R COLEMAN J. R. Colcin.iii. manager Grand F^acihc Hotel Cafe Chicago, ai.d formerly of Young's and the Parker House, Boston Said Mr. Coleman: Several years ago when I was at Young's in Huston Nicolini gave a dinner party in honor of Paiti and requested me to serve caviar sal ad before the oysters. Nicolini is a genuine epicur> and his choice of caviar salad before the oysters was a happy one. The caviar is mixed with lemon juic' and whipped lightly and very carefully with a fork so as not to break the delicate fish eggs. A small portion is placed on a heart of lettuce leaf and served on a dainty cnina dish. It creates an appetite Mr. Coleman would have a dish of this caviar sal ad on the dinner plate when the guest takes his seat Butter, crackers and olives on sideboard. Only su( li silverware on the table as is required for the early ^DN3wiioa'a QJldVlQ'ia RKL L,W.KOHLER THEO. PETIT. two. But very little silver on the table, but lots on sideboard. No teaspoons until required. 1 Butter knife, soup spoon and 3 Champaeno large knife 4 Claret 2 Oyster fork and large fork 5 Sauterne B Water THEO. PETIT. Theo. Petit, caterer, formerly with Spiers & Pond, Paris ; late proprietor of the Restaurant Francais, at the Wid-Winter Fair, San Francisco: Napkin on plate. No water. Sherry to go with oysters ; claret with the fish and entt ees ; champagne with the roast. One salt shaker and one pepper to do service for four diners, but prefer castor for all condiments. Bread in large platters. Tea spoons and other silver passed as required during the meal. 1 Fish knife large fork 2 Large knife 4 Champagne 3 Oyster fork, soup spoon and 5 Claret Sherry W. O. COLEMAN. W. O. Coleman, manager Burley & Co.'s hotel de- partment: Should be centerpieces. Two large salad castors on the table. Oyster and dinner plates. Bread and small patty of butter on a plate. Napkin in long fold to right of plate. 1 Oyster plate on dinner platelO Salad fork 2 Bread and butter plate 11 Tea and coffee spoons 3 Napkin 12 China salt celery dip not * Bread and butter knife-pearl over \M inch high and handle with fancy shaped standing in a little plate blade 13 Cut glass pepper shaker 5 Dessert knife— plated bladeU Water 6 Meat knife — steel blade 15 Claret 7 Oyster fork 16 Champagne 8 Soup spoon 17 Port 9 Large fork D. L. STAPLES. D. L. Staples, headwaiter the Auditorium, Chicago: Leave oysters off until guests are seated. Place everything where it comes most handy for the diner. A salt shaker for two, or a salt cellar for each one. One pepper for four. 1 Individual salt fork 2 Napkin on plute 5 Butter 3 Large knife. soup spoon, des- 6 Water sert knife, butter knife 7 Champagne 4 Largo fork, fish fork, oyster 8 Sauterne 9 Sherry D. D. CLEMENCE. D. D. Clemence, manager The Ontario, Chicago. Oyster plate only. Crackers on 6 inch plate — one plate between two people. No relishes — order them if wanted, would have some dainty dish or bric-a- brac china. Bread on tray. 1 Cracker plate 7 Napkin 2 Oyster plate 8 Oyster, dessert & meat forks 3 Pep.Der and salt 9 Soup spoon 4 Butter 10 Water 5 Two tea Spoons 11 Champagne 6 Meat knife, butter spreader, 12 Claret dessert knife 13 Port J. R. COLEMAN. J. R. Coleman, manager Grand Pacific Hotel Cafe Chicago, and formerly of Young's and the Parker House, Boston. Said Mr. Coleman: Several years ago when I was at Young's in Boston Nicolini gave a dinner party in honor of Patti and requested me to serve caviar sal- ad before the oysters. Nicolini is a genuine epicure and his choice of caviar salad before the oysters was a happy one. The caviar is mixed with lemon juice and whipped lightly and very carefully with a fork so as not to break the delicate fish eggs. A small portion is placed on a heart of lettuce leaf and served on a dainty china dish. It creates an appetite. Mr. Coleman would have a dish of this caviar sal- ad on the dinner plate when the guest takes his seat. Butter, crackers and olives on sideboard. Only such silverware on the table as is required for the early stages of the banquet, the remainder on the side- board for use when required. Napkin enfolding an oyster roll, and bread sticks to go with soup laid on the cloth between the napkin and the plate. A salt shaker and pepper to every other plate. Would not have individual salt cellar as they are not neat. Sherry with soup; claret with game : champagne with pastry. Claret should be in the room at least three hours before the banquet so that it can be served at the temperature of the room. 1 Caviar salad 6 Napkin with roll 2 Tea .spoon for caviar 7 Bread sticks 3 Meat knife and soup spoon 8 Water 4 Large fork and oyster fork 9 Cliampagne 5 Salt shaker and pepper tolO Claret every other plate 11 Sherry FRANK S. MURPHY. Frank S. Murphy, headwaiter Virginia Hotel, Chi- cago: Guest card placed on napkin on service plate After oysters and soup are served the service plate is removed to give place to fish plate. A bread and butter plate and butter spreader in front of service plate. Bread and butter in thin sandwiches, (two kinds of bread) passed around after guests are seated; also plain bread. No butter on table, but on sideboard and brought on request. 1 Service plate 8 'J Bonbon dishes 2 Napkin 10 Oyster. Ush.service and large 3 Guest card forks 4 Bread and butter plate andll Large, service & fish knives butter spreader and soup spoon 5 Almond Individual 12 Water 6 Pepper individual 13 Champagne 7 Salt Individual— gold-linedl4 Claret silver spoon 15 Sherry A. E. GLENNIE. A. E. Glennie, supt.. Union League Club, Chicago. My dear Mr. Willy: As per your request of yes- terday, I herewith send you a rough sketch of what is my idea of laying a banquet table, not knowing whether it will be any use to you, as views of cater- ers and stewards vary so much in this matter that I hardly know what to say. The most of the caterers stick to the old idea that they must have their tables lacfen with candies, cakes and confectionary pieces, and the napkins and table- cloths must be frilled and flounced, to make the ban- quet a success. Now this was all right some ten or twenty years ago, but it is very passe now, and not considered good form. Even smilax is not used to any extent now, or the set looking pieces of flowers made in basket shape, but instead a few maiden-hair or common ferns laid gracefully upon the cloth (not in a straight row), and a cut glass bowl filled with roses or any seasonable flowers, is, in my opinion, a more artistic decoration and certainly has not the stiffness or set look of a single string of smilax in the centre of the table or the artificial baskets that are used so much. So putting this forth as the proper table decoration, there are several good reasons therefor. First, if the guest cares to carry away the flowers and they are loose, he can do so; if they are wired, the pieces are large and bulky and to tear them apart would ruin the design, and if they were taken away whole but few would be able to be accommodated ; but when they are in a vase loose, they can be pulled apart and distributed among the guests and still retain their freshness. A flower withers very quickly after being wired; still, most florists will recommend the set pieces, for what reason I do not know, except it gives them a chance to work off their old stock, which would not look well in a vase There should always be a button-hole, either a carnation or small rose, placed at each gentleman's place, upon the napkin. If ladies are present, half a dozen pinks or small roses tied loosely together should be placed at their places. So much for table decorations. The old time caterers also have the idea of putting on all the silver that is necessary to be used for the whole dinner. This I also consider bad form, as it takes up room and inconveniences the guests. Fresh silver can be brought at any time. My sketch shows a banquet table spread, three kinds of wine to be served. It is a good idea and it is done very often now, to remove wine glasses from the table when service of wine is finished, as it gives the guests more room, but this is a matter of taste. Oysters should not be placed upon the table until after the guests are seated. It is also considered better form to pass bread and not have it on the table. Salted almonds should be served at all banquets, for they aid di- gestion. i Black pepper 2 Red pepper 3 Salt 4 Butter dish 5 Dish Of salted almonds (J Water glass 7 Champagne glass 8 Claret glass spoon 13 14 Knives 15 Napkin 16 17 Forks GEO. FULWELL. Geo. Fulwell, steward The Bates, Indianapolis, Ind 1 Bread 8 Bone dish 2 Napkin 9 Boquet 3 Hors d'oeuvre plate 10 Menu card 4 KIsh fork and entree fork 11 Salt and pepper 5 Kntree knife, butter knife, 12 Water soupspoon 13 Champagne ti Butter 14 Claret 7 Oyster fork 15 Burgundy PREFACE. This book "The Practical Hotel Steward" is written from the standpoint of one who has had years of prac- tical experience, and reflect what, in his judgment, are the best methods for a steward to follow. The author does not claim to be infallible, or that his methods are better than those of many others; but he believes them to contain the elements of success. John Tellman. JOHN TELLMAN. The Praetieal Hotel Steward. COPYRIGHTED 1896 BY JOHN TELLMAN. THE STEWARD'S DUTIES. class, capacity and internal arrangements being The steward is a man who manages the domestic prime causes. He will find some houses not so mod- concerns of another. ern, others not so well equipped as some in which Stewardship is by no means created by the ad- he has previously been employed. That should be vancement of the times, or improved methods of con- no reason for him to insist that "the pantry is in the ducting hotels, clubs or restaurants. On the con- wrong place," "the furniture and utensils are com- trary, we find this quite an ancient position of honor pletely out of date:" or, "worn out and should be and trust. For instance: in Scripture, we find that thrown out at once;" or, "he cannot work in such an Abraham had his steward: Joseph was the steward old rattletrap." While a great deal of the above may of Potiphar; and, as we follow history down to the be true, yet others had charge before him and the present time, all royal households and men of wealth house (may have) made a greatideal of money for the and position accustomed to maintaining an estab- proprietors; and if he will only try to accustom him- lishment always have a manager for their domestic self to. the house as he finds it, he may find things affairs — a steward. not so badly arranged after all. The hotel steward of today is supposed to be the GIVE HELP A FAIR TRIAL. same kind of a man as history describes-a manager, a steward on entering a new place should not do and an honest, trustworthy, judicious man on whom so with the belief that all the help of his predecessor the domestic welfare and happiness depends. His must be fired out. Wait and give them a trial, for duties in olden times were to supply the wants and they may be a great deal. better than those which he necessary servants for the entertainment of those by can get to fill the places so vacated. Should he find whom he was employed. The duties of the hotel by fair trial that the old help are undesirable, then steward of today are to keep the house properly by all means change as quickly as possible, supplied with provisions, to govern the help engaged HELP MUST RESPECT HIM in preparing such provisions, and to direct the ser- AJsteward of-judgment knows how to maintain the vice. ESSENTIAL QUALIFICATIONS. respectjof all with whom he may come in contact. A steward should possess these three qualifications The position being clothed with considerable dignity —honesty, a fair education and good judgment. A requires him to be of a reserved manner, speaking man, no matter how efficient, will not be retained in ^o those in his charge on business only ; yet he should position when found to be dishonest. The fact that "ot be haughty or hard'to. approach. He can be a man has "the itching palm" will travel many miles pleasant to the yardman or any of those under him farther than himself, and he often wonders why he ^^'^ ^t the same time feel (and have them feel) he is cannot find another job. Education is necessary, their superior. for it goes with judgment. A man without judgment RELATION TO PROPRIETOR OR MANAGER, cannot manage others unless depending upon brute The steward's relation to the proprietor or mana- force; and where force must be resorted to there can ggr is that of assistant in the fullest sense. The be no harmony and no pleasure in work; and often proprietor or manager handles the business part: he will be obliged to dismiss help who have proved the steward manages the domestic concerns. The most valuable assistants. steward has charge of the back part of the house, ADAPT HIMSELF TO CIRCUMSTANCES. attends to the marketing, sees that the help are all To be a successful steward a man must be able to in their places of duty, that the meals are on time, adapt himself to circumstances, as notwo hotels will superintends the preparation of the bills of fare, is be found just exactly alike in every respect — the particularly careful that economy is observed in all 2 THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. branches of his department, and sees to it that his should be promptly attended to; and should the ar- expense account does not exceed the fixed limit for tides not be on hand they should be gotten as soon theclassof house in which he isworking. He should as possible. These little attentions sometimes save feel on terms ot utmost ease with his employer in a great deal of annoyance. order that he may converse freely on any topic ap- RELATION TO THE HEADWAITER. pertaining to the business in which both are inter- i„ 3,, ^g,, regulated hotels the steward is indirect ested-to consult freely on all matters. By so doing authority over the headwaiter and dining room for- he is certain to learn the ideas and desires of those ^es. But as the headwaiter is usually a man of in- it is to his interest to please and satisfy. I believe telligence the steward should use caution in his ap- it proper and businesslike, in most instances, for the pUcation of such authority, lest a breach of harmony steward to forego his own ideas to those of his em- ^jgj^t ^^^^^ q^jj^ j^^^ jj ^j^^ headwaiter does not ployer, for it is his employer's money which the try to fulfill the stewards directions it is in the stew- steward spends for the house. The steward should ^rd's power to remove him or cause him to be re- not go to the proprietor or manager with all little ^Qy^^, But this is not always best. The headwai- troubles of no consequence. He is surely capable ter may be a first class man. He comes in direct con- of dealing with them judiciously without the assis- ^^^^ ^^,-^^^ ^^^ ^1^^ ^^^^^^^ 33 ^^^1, ^^ ^(^^ manager or tance of the man who is probably more occupied proprietor, and his efficiency has (very likely) proven than himself. itself in many ways. It would be hard for the stew RELATION TO THE GUESTS. ard to remove or try to have him removed without While a steward should at all times treat guests serious remonstrance. With cool deliberation such whom he meets with courtesy and respect, it is not friction need never occur, for the reason that you advisable to court acquaintance. In some houses should not try to fill his place (perform his duties) it is even better to keep at a distance, for the reason when he is there for that purpose. For instance: that (especially with regular boarders) they often the steward going into the dining room during meal hope to gain thereby some personal favor, which, if time and usurping the headwaiter's duties, such as granted and found out by the other guests, they seating guests, etc. The headwaiter is not incap. would be apt to feel slighted and cause complaint, able; or, if he is he should not be there, for in that I will say, however, that he should not be deaf to case it would surely be impossible for him to main- suggestions from guests or patrons of the house; he tain discipline and the obedience of his waiters. It may hear something which may prove beneficial. If is, however, proper for the steward to call attention a complaint is made give a fair hearing and then to and criticize the appearance and efficiency of the promise investigation and remedy. It is to be remem- waiters. It is to the steward's, as well as to the bered that a steward, no matter how old in the busi- headwaiter's interest, that waiters are in proper ness is never too old to learti. dress, and, above all, clean in appearance; also that RELATION TO THE HOUSEKEEPER. they serve neatly and with all possible dispatch. The steward's relation to the housekeeper should ^he steward also gives directions to the headwaiter be that of an associate in business, and should be ^^ ^"^ ^^'^"g^ ""' addition in service, that he may in- cordial. While in some (especially country) hotels fo^m his waiters before meal hours; also any new the steward is in authority over the housekeeper, rules in working. When arranging for banquets or yet in the well arranged and regulated large city ^P^<='^' ^^''''^^ °^ ^"^ ^'""^^ ^^^ l^eadwaiter awaits houses they are entirely independent of each other, ^he directions of the steward from beginning to end. But they have a great many things in common and ^H this can be done without any breach in harmony, can help and accommodate each other in a great THE ORGANIZING, GOVERNING AND FEEDING many ways, especiall}' in the management and ex- OF HELP. change of help. It often happens that the steward A very important part of the steward's duties is is short of someone in his department: the house- the organizing, governing and feeding of the help, keeper can send him one of her help to fill the va- I will begin this subject by dividing the working de- cancy temporarily. On the other hand, she, for some partment into different branches as follows: reason or other, may find it necessary to keep one or i. The cooks, more of her help late in finishing certain work in the 2. Pastry and bakery, house. It will not inconvenience the steward to see 3. Fruit pantry, that they are well fed. Also any requisitions of nee- 4. Silver and glass pantry, essaries the housekeeper may send to the storeroom 5. Dish service. THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 3 6. Servants' halls. and other material which he uses amounts to about 7. Storeroom. three-fifths of the expense of the table ; and if he is in- 8. Wine room. different can very easily throw away hundreds of 9. Yardmen. dollars almost unnoticed, until the steward's month- 10. Assistant or inside steward. ly statement is made. He has only to trim a loin of [The latter allowable only in the larger houses.] beef or a rib closer than necessary and th.row the DUTIES OF THE ASSISTANT STEWARD. waste into the stock boiler where it can not be found. Where the steward has an assistant, the latter's The stock boiler never tells tales. For this reason 1 duties are to relieve the steward of the immediate would never force a reduction of salary on cooks, supervision of the pantries and the servants' halls, vvithout first ascertaining if they willingly accept it. to keep an account of all breakage, to look to the Should they not. then change the crew at the figure saving of what food is returned from the dining room which the house can afford. in good condition, to keep order in the kitchen when When a chef resigns, giving the required time to the head steward can not be there. The assistant secure his successor, and he has shown himself faith- steward is generally clothed with sufficient authority f"' and competent, it is well to let him remain until to dismiss from service any employes under him. In his time expires; but should it, for any reason, be many instances, however, he is restricted and is re- necessary to remove him, it is not advisable to give quired to report all cases of insubordination to the ^0° ^°"S notice, in some cases none at all, but have head steward. The inside steward should be a man his successor right in the kitchen at the time the of some executive ability and action, and should not change is being made. I say this, because I have be undecided about every trivial offence. He should found, almost without exception, when notice was have a bearing of some dignity. Where there is a g'^en to the chef, the house was the loser. No mat- competent chef who knows how to keep his crew in ^""^ ''ow well meaning the chef may be his cooks wilt order the inside steward has no authority over the see that nothing is saved. I doubt if there is any j.QQj^g_ ^other branch of business where such waste and des- ^^^^ truction is practiced by men who are being removed from their places in a peaceful way. THE COOKS. ^ Upon the cooks depends the good''name of the hotel. Nc matter how weWthe rooms are kept, how THE PASTRY AND BAKERY, elegant the ofl|ce and rotunda, or what modern con- The pastry and bakery, the second branch, is of >enienGcrthehotel may have, they are all lost sight "° '^ss importance than the kitchen. When a hotel of when the cooking is bad. Therefore the steward has poor bread or rolls there is complaint.no matter will see that the cooks are the best the house can how good the cooks. When the pastry cook and afford. A good many hotel men think that when they ^aker are competent, sober men it is generally this have a chef with a good reputation, that ought to branch which causes less annoyance than the others, settle the whole matter. They surely find themselve Being located in most instances away from the kit- invariably mistaken; because a chef can ,tot do als ^hen they do their work quietly, as they are not in- the work himself. And when it is expected that a terfered with in their labors by waiters or other help chef, no matter how good he is, is supplied with in- ^^"'"S ^°' orders, (I will except resort hotels where competentassistants, there will be disappointment! kitchen and bakery are in one room, and the pastry When he should instruct his men in their work it is ^ook with his assistant serves his preparations.) best he does it himself, and while he does their work Their storeroom account is also more easily kept in his own is neglected. He can do only one man's ^heck. the material used by them being generally work at a time. More than this : no hotel can afford cheaper and but little waste. The total cost of ma- a crew of men who must learn at the expense of the. *e'''^'' ^^ compared with the kitchen, is a little more j^pygj, than 3-16 of the total issues of supplies on the ave- The cooks prepare all food which enters the dining ""^ge. If the men of this branch are not competent room; and in most places the chef also directs the '"°''^ ^^^'^ '''"' ■■^^"''' ^'^^''^ '''"' ^"^ ^^'■"^'^ ^ ^^^ serving, as in this way he can observe if his men ^ut some one thing or another will be a failure, prepare and serve most attractively. After the dish THE FRUIT P.\NTRY. passes him it is again subject to the scrutiny of the The fruit pantry is in most houses in charge of Steward. With the chefrests the economy of the kit- girls : for that reason it requires a great deal of the chen. He can make the steward's administration steward's personal attention. Here all relishes, an expensive or an economical one, as the meats fruits, desserts, tea, coffee, milk and cream, butter, 4 THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. and, in fact, everything not served by the cooks, is of the pantry girls. Where waiters are permitted to served from the pantry. Good pantry girls are not help themselves they often take cream instead of plentiful. When the steward has a good one he is milk fordrinking purposes. fortunate and should try to keep her. It requires a SERVING THE BUTTER. girl who is obedient and has a strong will of her own Butter is usually prepared for the dining room by —one who will show no partiality, serving waiters in ^^^ ^f jhe waiters, and then served from the pantry. turn as they call, and giving portions as directed by ECONOMY IN THE PANTRY. the steward. Early in the season of small fruits the y^,, fruit, bread, crackers, relishes, milk, cream. pantry often proves more expensive than need be, etc., not used, should be returned to the pantry from especially if you have girls th-re who will try to j^e dining room, and not taken to the dish pantry. please waiters, who always try to prevail on them ^here a great deal may be lost. for favors in serving larger portions. ^^^^ SILVER P'^NTRY TEA AND COFFEE MAKING. ^Yhe silver pantry is in accordance with the quan- The makin ; of coffee and tea belongs to this branch, ^■^^y g^^j quality of the service of the hotel. In a great In large houses there is a man who attends to the ^^^y places there is no silver pantry at all, the dish- making of coffee and tea, assists at carving at meal washers washing the knives, forks, glasses, etc., at time, opens the oysters and clams, or helps do so. one end of the sink ; but where a house has a fine He serves the coffee and rolls and makes the toast silver service and cut glass there should be a sepa- and griddle cakes. In other houses the work ofcof- ^ate room, which it is possible to lock after working fee and tea making devolves on the assistant stew- hours. This should be in charge of one, or, if very ard ; and again, in others, there is a girl who attends busy, two girls. On regular silver cleaning days the to this, as well as the baking of cakes, making toast headwaiter generally furnishes men for assistance in a place convenient to the dining room entrance, j^ ^^is work, since it is he who keeps account of this She also has charge of the rolls and all breads, ^vare, serves them in portions instead of permitting the THE DISH PANTRY, waiters to help themselves, as in some places. The dish pantry is the place where all soiled dish- Careful attention should be paid to the making of es are taken from the dining room. It generally coffee. Every hotel man knows how much annoy- consists of a large sink, one sorting table and a draln- ance it has given him, and yet it is not a difficult thing ing rack. Where there is a machine for dishwash- to do. It takes no more work to make good coffee ing the latter is not needed, but a table instead, than to make it poorly. In the first place, when you SATISFACTORY METHOD OF WASHING have urns for making drip coffee, see that they are DISHES. evenly heated, and be sure that water is boiling be- Where a house has no dishwashing machine I have fore pouring it on the coffee. I would make the bags found the following method about the best to adopt: of fine linen crash : then have the coffee of the best Have a sink made of two-inch pine wood about 14 quality ground very fine, using about one pound to feet long, 2 feet deep, 2I.2 feet wide, divided in three every two gallons of boiling water; let steep, then parts — one for hot soapsuds; the second for clean draw and pour it over a second time. It ought to hot rinsing water; the third for soakingdishes which stand about fifteen minutes before using Make ^j^ ^ot wash easily, such as egg cups and dishes only enough at one time to last abjut an hour. Start jj^at have been caked. Have a live steam pipe your second urn about fifteen minutes before the placed in the first, so you can keep the water at the first is empty. By instructing the coffee maker to desired heat; then get about six wire baskets six- proceed in this manner there will always be good ^gg^ inches long by eleven inches wide and eleven coffee. inches deep; have them lined with thin oak strips to I should never make tea in an urn. When there j^ggp the wire (which should be galvanized) from are pots to serve, have boiling water continually marking the dishes. After the dishes are carefully during meal hours and draw into the teapots as taken scraped and sorted have the dishwasher (who to the guest, about the same way as it is done in first should be a strong man) place them firmly, yet so class restaurants. Tea loses all its good qualities the water can pass around every dish. When the after standing over fifteen minutes and becomes real" basket is filled he should set it in the soap suds and ly unhealthy as a beverage. let it stand until he has filled a second basket, when SERVING THE MILK AND CREAM. he should take the first and plunge up and down four Milk and cream should always be poured by one or five times. This forces the water around the THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 5 dishes. Then they sliould be plunged just as many left there until they are unfit for any use. then they times in the rinsing water. If the water is hot the are taken out and sent to tlie help. Fish saved up dishes will be thoroughly clean and dry without for most a week. Friday it is sent to the help. The wiping. There is very little chipping. The method hash is burnt; the potatoes two days old are sour; is in many ways preferable to a machine, which often food, none of which is fit for humans to eat — can you does not give tiie satisfaction its expense would expect your help to be satisfied with it? Ifthissame warrant. By the above described method one man stuff were used the same day, or not later than the and three girls can wash the dishes for 200 people, next, warmed upand served nicely it would be eaien. SAVING AT THE SCRAP TABLE. There are many inexpensive articles that can be There should be arranged at the sorting table a given the help, such as dried fruit stewed for break- kind of railing on which are suspended a number of ^^st; there are plenty of cheap relishes; and in the tin vessels made square in order to fit closely to- summer, onions, radishes, cucumbers and occasion- gether. in which everything is saved which comes ally watermelons and other refreshing field products back from the dining room. The sorter should not ^re cheap enough. In houses where there is a sepa- be allowed to use his judgment as to what should be ^^^^ kitchen for the help less complaint is heard, saved. The steward or inside steward should watch The help should be well fed and it can be done this branch very closely and after the meal, should without too great expense deliver these savings to the chef, who can dispose HELPS ME.AL HOURS. of them. The steward should post in a conspicuous place in THE SERVANTS' HALLS. '^'^ halls the hours during which the help are to have In houses where there are white and colored help, their meals served, there is a dining room for the white, and another for THE STORE ROOM, the colored help; also a second officers' hall. The store room is the real business branch of the NURSES AND CHILDREN'S DINING ROOM. steward's department. The buying and selling is The second officers' hall is also often used as the d^"« t^^''^' ^'^^ °"'y difference from the regular re- nurses and children'sdining room and is under direc- tail grocery store being that goods are sold to the tion of the head waiter: those priviliged to eat here ^^^'""^ departments of the hotel at cost price, al- are the engineer, carpenter, head porter, linen room 'o^^'"6 "Otl'ing for shrinkage. It is in charge of a girl, head laundress, billiard room man and second "^^^ ^^"^^ ^^^ storekeeper-in large houses two bartender men, one the receiver, the other the bookkeeper who also issues, with the assistance of the receirer. FIRST OFFICERS' DINING ROOM. When the first officers' do not eat in the regular '^"^ STORE ROOM ICE BOX. dining room there is a room especially provided for ^" addition to the necessary storage rooms there them, or they take their meals in the Ladies' Ordi- '^ a large refrigerator, in two compartments, in which nary. WAITERS FOR THE HELP. Where there is colored help they should be waited on by men of their own color ; the white help by girls. Girls are always best for help's waiters ; they are REGULAR HOURS FOR STOREROOM ISSUES. Cleaner and are more prompt and reliable. ^l^ere are regular hours during which time the supplies are issued to the different branches or de- are kept fresh meats in the one, dairy products in the other part. The stock of goods is kept regulat. ed according to the time required to procure fresh fresh supplies from the market. FEEDING THE HELP. The feeding of the help is beyond a doubt the most annoying branch of the steward's department. To satisfy them is almost out of the question. No partments, who send regularly filled requisitions. THE STEWARD IN THE STOREROOM. Here, also, is where the steward can be found dur- matter what you give, even where they are fed from '"? »'^^ ^'"^^ ^« *^ "°' otherwise occupied, looking the carving stand, they will find fault: but if the °'-^' '^'^ accounts, making up his market list and steward will pay personal attention he can keep Preparing for his next day's bill of fare. them from complaining. Often, no doubt, there is STOREROOM MONTHLY INVENTORY. good cause for complaint, especially when their food Stock of supplies on hand should be taken at the is prepared in the main kitchen by one of the cooks, end of every month and submitted to the office. ■Vegetables and meats left over from the regular THE WINE ROOM. meals are set in the ice box by the chef and often The wineroom is kept entirely seperate from the THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. store room and is in charge of the assistant steward or wine storeroom man; but in many houses the head bartender issues the wines. When in charge of the latter the accounts are kept in the office and WINE ISSUES. The wine steward should fill no requisition for wines or liquors of any kind for guests or bar unless the same is first recorded in the office. A guest, in a very filthy and neglected wine room is usually the ordering, should fill in a card, printed for thatpurpose result. When wines are served to the dining room from the wine room direct, the wine room should be in charge of the steward's assistant or a wine steward. TEMPERATURE OF WINE ROOM. The wine room should be located where the tem- perature is most equable— not too warm in the sum- mer nor too cold in the winter. There should be also a refrigerator arranged with racks on which to keep such wines for daily use as champagnes, white sti'.l wines, ales, beers and mineral waters. Clarets, burgundies and all other dry red wines should not be chilled before use The waiter takes it to the clerk or cashier, who O.K's it, which means that it has been charged to the guest. Stock is taken once a month. This branch is one of the most important factors in the success of an Amer. ican plan hotel, many not being able to exist where the traffic in wines is prohibited by law. THE YARDMAN. The yardman is needed for all the rough and heavy work, helping the storekeeper and receiving the groceries, freezing ice cream, keeping the yard and sidewalks clean, looking after the help's toilet and doing such other work as he may be called upon to do. The following is a list of utensils required to conduct the back part of a hotel of about 250 rooms in first class style. I Nutmeg grater. 14x18x2 inch flat square KITCHEN. I 16 foot range. (4 oven) I 30 inch broiler. I 24 " I Bain marie about 21^x4 feet. I 40 gallon stock boiler. I 25 3 Steamers. I 12 in. marble mortar & pestle. I 12 ft. carving stand &bain marie I Egg boiler. I 10 foot plate warmer. I Toast, waffle and cake range. 1 Copper fisli boiler. a 32 quart copper sauce pans. 2 20 " 4 16 ■• " ;; 3 12 8 inch copper saute pans. braserie. inch wire broilers. 14 16 16 13x1 "'^'s " '■ " , ., QX12 " " oyster broilers. 2 French potato fryers. I dozen egg fry pans. 3 Hotel fry pans, I Black iron grease pan. 3 Porcelain lined iron pots for boil- ing vegetables I 10 inch potato masher, plunger or Petroli. 1 Saratoga chip cutter. 1 large Enterprise meat cutter. 3 dozen fcrged basting sp.oons. 2 3 prong steet flesh forks. 2 6)4 inch flat skimmers. 6 No. 10 flat handle skimmers. 6 Cake turners. I dozen gravy ladles (small) J 1. •■ " (medium) I " soup 3 Egg whips. 3 Flour dredges. I K pt , I pt- and I quart measure 6 14x18x2 inch flat square pans for steaks 2 8 inch Chinese strainers. 26" I large collander. I puree sieve I •' brush 1 bread crumber 6 Grease brushes 12 Union parers and corers 6 Vegetable knives 12 8 inch and 12 10 inch milk pans 2 40 quart dish pans 2 30 2 20 " " " 2 14 6 Roast pans to fit range 6 " " half size 3 Waffle irons I Meat block I Block scraper I Wire block brush 1 " brush fish cleaner 2 Pot chains I Ice pick I Cork screw 6 Wooden pails I Cedar tub (for potatoes) 6 2 gallon bowls for mayonnaise BAKERY AND PASTRY. I Oven for bread Candy kettle 1 Dumpling steamer 2 Peels I Mixing trough I Proving box 12 Bread trays I Scales I I quart measure I I pint 1 1^ •• 2 Egg beaters I Flour brush I Copper beating bowl I large and 2 small flour sieves 1 Strainer (large) 2 Chinese strainers I Fruit press 1 " parer 6 Basting brushes 2 large wooden mixing bowls 2 medium " " " 1 dozen " spoons 1 Felt jelly strainer 12 Sponge cake pans 12 8 inch and 12 10 inch Milk pans 12 Brown bread molds 12 Bread pans (French) 12 " " (plain) 12 Russia iron baking sheets 12 Muffin molds 36 deep and 36 shallow Pie plates 2 Ladles 2 Dippers I Copper custard pie dipper 12 dozen jelly molds, individual 6 Ice cream molds, brick 12 dozen charlotte russe rings I Lemon squeezer I 16 quart copper sauce pan I 10 I Pastry range, coke or hard coa\ I Grease pan for frying 1 40 quart dish pan 2 20 " " " 3 14 2 Rolling pins 1 40 quart freezer, steam power I Packing can I 16 quart freezer complete I Ice tongs I " chisel I " steam crusher PANTRY. 1 12 gallon hot water urn 2 10 " coffee urns I Tea urn, if tea is made in large quantity 1 Bread cutter 2 " knives 1 C an opener 2 small wooden tubs 2 Wood pails 3 Basting spoons 2 Small ladles I Cork screw 6 Earthern bowls I Ice pick I Knife polisher 1 Sugar dredge 3 I gallon pitchers (agate ware) 2 Cream dippers 3 Preparing knives I Collander 1 Strainer 2 dozen tea strainers, individual THE I'RAC TICAL HOTEL STEWARD. The following is a list of utensils required to conduct a forty room 2 Grease brushes 2 WaftU' irons I dozen dairy pans, 8 inch KITCHEN. 2 oven range (with water back) 24 inch broiler i4gallon stock pot (copper with faucet) 10 foot steam table (with stove) 6 foot plate warmer (with stove) 16 qt. sauce pan for soup, copper 12 " copper sauce pans 4 qt. copper sauce pans 2 10 inch saute pans 3 9x12 wire broilers 2 10 inch wire frying baskets I Grater 6 Egg frying pans I Black iron grease pan 1 Plunger or Petroli potato masher 3 Porcelain lined iron cook po(s for vegetables 2 Hotel frying pans. No. 24 I Saratoga chip cutter I Enterprise meat cutter 1 dozen basting spoons I 3 prong steel flesh fork 1 6}-£ inch skimmer 2 small " 2 Cake turners 6 small ladles 3 large " I Egg whip I Flour dredge I Nutmeg grater 4 Flat pans for cut meats I Chinese strainer, medium I Collander 4 Wooden pails I 40 quart dish pan 3 20 3 14 " ■' '■ 4 Roast pans to fit range 4 •' " half size I Vegetable bain marie 3 Earthen bowls for salads and mayonnaise When the house is not supplied with steam as is often the case, a hot water stove ol a good size will supply the kitchen with hoi water, heat the dishes, carving stand and bain marie, and at the same time save the expense of water backs in the ranges, which is consider- able where there is hard well water FOR PASTRY COOK. I Portable oven. (Hubbard is a good one.) 1 Stove 2 large wooden bowls I small I large mixing pan I small peel (short handle) I Scales I I quart measure I I pint I K •• I Egg beater I Flour brush I Beating bowl 1 Flour sieve, large country hotel. I " " small I Strainer I Basting brush }^ dozen wood spjons 1 Rolling pin 3^ dozen sponge cake pans 3^ dozen iron cake baking sheets 4 Bread pans 2 dozen deep pie plates 2 '• shallow " 2 Dippers I Custard dipper I Prooving box 5 dozen individual jelly molds 5 " charlotte rings 1 Fruit press 2 20 quart dish pans I 16 quart ice cream freezer I Packing can y^ dozen brown bread molds I Cake griddle I Pudding steamer for stove 14 dozen mufhn molds PANTRY. 1 8 gallon coffee urn 2 Bread knives 1 Can opener 2 small wood tubs 2 Preparing knives 1 Ice pick 3 Basting spoons 2 small ladles I Cork screw 1 Sugar dredge 2 I gallon pitchers of agate ware I Strainer I dozen individual tea strainers 14 " earthen bowls Managing Help. T/ie /aw of military government is alike the world over. It is as old as history. Every country has civil laws which undergo a revision, often a complete change to con- form with the spirit of the times; but the rules, discipline and etiquette, which form the Jundamental principles of military organization, will always remain as they are. The fact that every man is recognized in his station only alone makes it possible that one general can move the armies of a nation successfully. No private can seek redress or make a report of any kind to any one but the officer im- mediately above him., nor can the captain officially ap- proach a general and thereby ignore the intermediate officers. On the other hand, the general, when giving or- ders, gives them to the colonel and so they pass down from officer to officer until they reach the lowest rank. Every man remains in his place and attends to the duties of his office, which, in order to attend to properly, keeps him oc- cupied without any time to look after the duties of some- one else: in short, every man minds his own business. Business concerns and corporations who organize and govern their forces on the above basis surely meet with best results, especially in large hotels. * * * The steward having just entered upon his duties wi'h a full crew of help for a house with a capacity of about 225 people and doing a prosperous business, the total number of his force is about twenty-seven, divided as follows: I Carver, who also makes coffee. I Headwaiter. II Cooks, including: I Chef, I Second cook, I Roast cook, who also broils, I Fry cook, I Butcher, who also attends the cold meats and salads. I Vegetable cook, (girl) I Fireman, I Pan washer, 3 Girls for cleaning vegetables. I Baker. I Pastry cook. 1 Girl to help in bakeshop. 2 Girls in fruit pantry. I Girl in coffee and bread pantry. 1 Girl in silver pantry. 4 in dish pantry (i man and 3 girls) 2 Yardmen. I Storekeeper. Witli such a force of employes at his command it requires continual vigilance to see that the best 8 THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. possible results are obtained; that all do the work in every corner of the kitchen, pantries, ice boxes* alloted to them with efficiency and dispatch, as on bakery, storerooms or cellars, and say "we always their prompt and harmonious movement, inconjunc- keep it so." tion with a force of comp.^tent waiters, depends the I will here enumerate a table of rules for the good service required to please the guest. They all government of help as an illustration: look to the steward for their orders and any differ- RULES FOR GOVERNMENT OF HELP, ences which may arise among some of them are re- i.— All employes must be punctual in reporting for duty. ferred to him for adjustment. He is their manager, ■2— Every one must be clean in habit and in work. advisor and judge and should rule in a firm and dig- j. — There shall be no loud, boisterous or profane lan- nified manner. He has but little to say to anv of guage, nor zvhistling or singing. them, except as concerns the work, from the time he ^.—Etnployes coming late for their meals will not be enters until work is done. served unless good cause is shozvn to the steward, THE LABOR MARKET TO BE CONSIDERED. ^^o. if satisfied, will order service. When the hotel is located at or near a labor mai k- .... , ,, 1, 1. j- j ^ ^ , j- Notice oj meal hours will be found posted in dining et, where the steward can easily select new help on ■' ^ rooms. short notice, they can be more severely dealt with ^ a ■ i- . j.r j ■ z.- ■' ^. — Any one wis/iiiig to see an employe during "corking than if he must send to other towns, thereby de- ^ .. ^ , ; . ^ r w ■' hours must first obtain permission from the pending entirely on employment aeencies, necessitat- , j 7,7 ■ ■,- ^ ■., j n ■' ^ ■' * V, V.O, ...^^j steivard. No visiting permitted otherzvise. ing an expense of railroad fare, and when they come a at n .i ^ t j ■., j ■ ti i.-., 1. " ^ t, ciivi «iicii iiicj. v.,^jiiic ^ — No one allowed to stand or sit around in the kitchen are often found to be not so good as what you have. when off dutv The good help do not as a rule want to leave the y.^There shall be no smoking or chewing of tobacco. Cities, if they can help it, unless exceptional good S.-All breakage will be charged to breaker at cost price. salaries are offered. The penalty for violation of any of the above rules will SOME HELP NEED MORE WATCHING THAN z, ^ v i /- ./ _,_.j„_,„ be a fine or discharge from service, as the case may O FHERS. There is seldom a time when all the help is just "''''''''"^''• what they should be. Some need more watching "^'^^ '^'""''^ ''"'^^ ^''^ "''"P'^' ^"^ >'^' sufficiently than others, but by using proper efforts it is often embrace all needs for any house large or small the case that some who prove poorly at first can be EARLY MORNING DUTIES, made to do good work. The steward should be an early riser and be about In order that the steward manages with success, '" '''"e ^° ^^^ "^^' ^he helps meals are ready and he should set a good example by being a man of good Promptly served, in order that they may be ready for moral habits and retain an even temper, not use duty when time requires them to be at their respec- profane or obscene language, abstain from tobacco tive places; after which he passes to the ranges to in any form on duty and use no intoxicants. see if the chef has everything needed. From there RULES MUST BE ENFORCED. THE DISH HEATERS. It is well to have a printed code of rules posted in he inspects the dish heaters, sees if they have been a conspicuous place, which should be strictly en- properly attended to. The dish heater is occasion- forced. Any rule is a laughable farce when no ally a source of annoyance, especially in houses attention is paid to it, especially if the steward vio- where the steam fitting is badly done; it may happen lates it hidiself. that just at a time when the dishes are needed they Too much can not be said against the use of to- are cold, and nothing is more unsatisfactory than to bacco. Think of the manager of the hotel showing serve a meal on cold dishes. It should therefore be a guest around, and, when entering the kitchen, to the first thing looked after in the morning. By see a cook at work with a pipe or cigar in his mouth ! opening full both the supply and return valves, wait- another a chew of tobacco, spitting all over the floor ! ing about two minutes, and then closing the return or a waiter carrying a meal with a mouth full of to- down to about half a turn ; and then, if it does not bacco! It will not improve the visitor's appetite to work, have the engineer open the traps, which will see such a thing, and his good opinion of the house always start a circulation, that may have become will be much lessened. stopped during the night. Cleanliness should be one of the first and most THE EGG BOILER, important rules of the house. The working depart- After this comes the egg boiler, of which we find ment should always be in such a condition that the a great many different kinds in use Of late there steward or manager can be |)roud to show visitors are patent ones by which the time required for boil- THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 9 ing is regulated by clock or electricity. Where none permissable. the steward should by all means take of the latter are in use, I would suggest a simple and a personal interest in this work and he will thereby good one made of sheet copper about 20 inches long save many a dollar for the house. by 10 inches wide by 8 inches deep, resting on an After the midday meal is over the steward attends iron frame about 2 feet high, in which place a per- to his special work such as banquets, collations, forated pipe lengthwise, supplied with live steam, luncheons, etc., if there be any on that day, and ar- With this, water can be brought to a boil in a very ranges his menus for such spreads as may be ordered short time. The waiters place the eggs in small or in prospective. wire baskets, submerge in the boiling water, and After this he checks and O. K's. his previous day's watch time by a clock, v^iiich should have a place bills and sends them to the office, near by. THE MORALS MUST BE LOOKED AFTER. Then the steward sees if the toast and cake ranges The steward should try to maintain the highest are in order. He then hands the serving lists for the possible standard of morality among his help, for day to the pantry and gives his directions for the there is nothing more disgusting than to come in the service, in order that requisitions can be made on the kitchen and find the help using language of intimacy Storerooms in good season. and profanity. There should be no familiarity be- Then he );oes to the bakery and pastry and sees tween the male and female help while at work, or that bread and rolls are on time. anywhere as long as in the house. Where a rule to He sees if the yardmen are attending to their this effect is not strictly enforced the organization morning work becomes corrupt and short lived. The steward then goes to the storeroom and ar- REPRINL'\NDS. ranges his bills of fare for the printer (often this If the steward find any of his help violating a rule latter work is done the evening before), he should call the offender to one side, away from He then goes to his breakfast, and after that super- the hearing of the resi, and reprimand in a firm intends the serving of the best part of the morning manner, with injunctions and the penalties you will meal before going to market. invoke at its repetition; unless the offense is of [Where there is an assistant or inside steward it serious nature, when the penalties are applied at is the latter's duty to attend to the detail of the in- once. No offense should be overlooked more than side work above referred to, while the steward once. Such treatment as the above results much attends to the bills of fare and then goes to market.] better than where they are reprimanded in the pres- STEWARD SUPERINTEND CARVING AND ence of other help with a torrent of threats and SERVICE. oaths. When the offender is a man he will invar- The steward should be back from his trip to the iably resent it, and at times leave the house at once. market in time to superintend the serving of the And it is not manly to swear at helpless girls— only midday meal, especially where dinner is served at a bully would do so. Furthermore, such proceedings that time. At breakfast the guests come in the create disturbances which cause the rest to neglect dining room more scattered from the opening to the their work while it occurs, and the help lose respect closing of the door, but not so with the other meals for such a manager. of the day. For these the guests usually come in a AS I'O INTOXICANTS. rush, and the steward should be on hand to avoid The use of intoxicating drinks should not be per- any confusion likely to arise in the serving depart- mitted in the kitchen. The custom of it being fur ment on account of the impatience of the waiters, nished to the cooks is entirely foreign and I know and, also to see that a full supply of everything on of no instance wherein it has proven beneficial ; and the menu is constantly on hand; also that the carv- when the American educated cook comes to rule ing and serving of the proper quantity for a portion the kitchen, I have no doubt the use of beer, wine is in accordance with his directions. or whisky as a beverage in the kitchen, will pass In order to direct the serving from the carving away. Its effect on the cooks while before the range Stand economically, and at the same time attrac- has a tendency to excite, and often trouble has been tively, the steward should himself be a master of traced to this source. Where cooks are allowed to the art of carving. drink, others feel they have the same right and will To be a good carver is an accomplishynent -which every try to get it in some way. Where there is drunken steward is proud of. help there is also profanity: both go hand in hand. and Where a competent and trustworthy carver is not both offenses should be strictly dealt with. An ex- io THE PRACTICAL ample should be made of the first offender ; if the others value their places they will be more careful. IMPARTIALITY IN DECISIONS. Strict impartiality should be the steward's motto. In all his dealings he should not fine or discharge one and excuse another guilty of the same offense, unless the one is the cause of both. When there is complaint of a waiter not receiving proper attention, or any other difference which may arise, both parties concerned should be brought to- gether and the cause will soon be ascertained and can be adjusted. A decision when once made should not be changed. It is like a judge of a court, in whom the public soon loses faith if he can be persuaded to reverse his own decisions. THE BREAKAGE AND FINES BOOK. The steward should have a book in which an ac count of all breakage is kept, the name of breaker, articles and cost thereof, also such fines as he may have imposed for violating rules. Every evening a transcript of the day's charges in this book is sent to the bookkeeper so that the amount may be charged to their account and deducted from their wages. In all cases the ones so charged or fined should be noti- fied at once as it avoids complaints and dissapoint- ment. NO VISITING DURING WORKING HOURS. There should be no visiting of help during work- ing hours, and no strangers should be permitted to enter the working department, except on very urgent matters; then only with a pass from the office. Such visits always cause a disturbance or hindrance of some kind. There should be only one entrance to the working part of the house, where all help must enter and leave. At this entrance is usually a guard or watchman who admits no one but employes, and inspects all packages coming and going— this (r. prevent any attempt at dishonesty. (See illustration of watchman's gate in ideal kitchen basement, front- ispiece plate No. 2). EVENING DUTIES. ■When work is done at night the steward sees that the chef has his meat rooms and ice boxes properly locked: that dishheaters, pantries, etc., are in good order for the next day. WARNING SIGNS. There should be signs at all entrances that none but employes are allowed to enter their respective departments, then only during working hours. The steward cannot be too strict in the enforcement of this rule : it helps to avoid leakages, which will occur HOTEL STEWARD. in any house where help is permitted to come and go at will. QUALI TY OF HELP. The help in the house should be the best that can be had for the wages the house can afford. Help can be had of all classes and all prices. It is seldom that a good hand is found willing to work for ex- tremely low wages, and then he only stays until something better is found NO PROFIT IN CHEAP HELP. I have never as yet found an instance wherein a steward has met with lasting success, whose custom it is, upon newly entering on his duties, to try to impress the management of the house that he can reduce the expenses below those of his predecessor by dis- charging all forces in his control and replacing them with cheaper help, which often (I may say, invari- ably) results in a house sheltering a lot of material who can find work no where else. Such a method has not only the effect to lower the standard of the help, but it also lowers the service, which, after this steward loses his position, his successor can not readily improve, unless the original scale of wages is restored. ORGANIZATION OF A FORTY ROOM COUNTRY HOTEL. I will endeavor to illustrate the organizations of several houses that have come under my notice from a small forty-room country hotel to a large summer resort, all of them successfully managed and making money for their proprietors. First : A 40-room country house, catering to trans- ients at $2.00 a day, the force is as follows: The proprietor, who acts as his own steward. There are in the office I clerk I porter, who also does the housework. 1 boy who makes the calls and answers bells and keeps the office clean. 2 bar tenders The kitchen crew, colored, as follows; I head cook, man I pastry cook, woman I assistant cook, (man) who also does pan- washing I vegetable cleaner I yardman (colored) who kills the poultry, makes the soap, and keeps kitchen supplied with fuel I bar porter who also acts as store keeper I dishwasher. In the dining room are three girls. They keep the dining room in order, wash silver and glasses, scrub the dining room floor twice a week, say Wed- nesdays and Saturdays, and mop the same all other days. They are reenforced at meal times by two THE PRACTICAL chambermaids. When business is rushing an extra dining room girl is engaged. The proprietor acts as head waiter; his wife is Iiouse Iceeper. She has 3 girls, including the two helping at the tables; they keep the rooms in order and attend to the cleaning of paints. Two colored women do the laundry work. The house is noted for cleanliness and setting a good table, and has always been a money maker. The proprietor of the above house has a contract with the butcher to furnish all meats at a fixed rate — steaks, chops, roasts, boiling beef, etc., at uniform price, the same butcher preparing all meats ready for cooking. The following breakfast, dinner and supper bills are fair specimens of meals served at this house. BREAKFAST. Oranges and Apples. Oatmeal mush. Dry, buttered or milk toast. Fried chicken. Beef steak. Ham. Pork chops. Fried apples and bacon. Eggs fried, boiled or scrambled. Potatoes stewed, fried or baked Hot rolls. Plain bread. Tea. Coffee. Milk. DINNER. Vegetable soup. Fried Mississippi River catfish, tomato sauce. Pickled beets. Chow chow. Olives. Boiled mutton with turnips. Roast beef, brown gravy. Leg of veal with dressing. Baked chicken pie. Apple fritters, brandy sauce. Boiled and mashed potatoes. Sugar corn. Tomatoes. String beans. Cabinet pudding. Peach pie. Custard pie. Wine jelly. Fruit. Coffee. Milk SUPPER. Corn meal mush and milk. Cream toast. Baked bananas. Sirloin steak. Liver and bacon. Sausage. Fried or boiled eggs. Stewed pigsfeet. Cold roast beef. Ham. Mutton German fried potatoes Baked potatoes Hot waffles. Biscuits. Plain bread Apple sauce. Tea. Coffee. Milk. HOTEL STEWARD. ir The bills are changed daily and are written by the clerk for each meal. There are often served at this house Lodge instal- lation and ball suppers, when as many as a hundred couples are entertained. The proprietor never has any trouble to secure waitresses for an occasion of this kind, as there are always plenty of girls of re- spectable families pleased to give a helping hand. The chef and the pastry cook begin to prepare about two days in advance, and when the time comes and all is ready you will see as nice a table decorated with a profusion of flowers, stands of fruit and orna- mentals of salads, jellies, cakes, etc., as you could wish for. The daily per capita of this house averaged about 52 cents. ORGANIZATION OF A ONE HUNDRED ROOM, TWODOLLAR-A-DAY HOTEL. The organization of a 100 room hotel at $2.00 per day in a small city is about as follows: I steward I headwaiter Chef and crew consisting of I second I broiler I fry cook I vegetable cook I fireman and pan washer 3 dishwashers I silver washer I fruit pantry girl I baker and pastry cook combined 1 baker's helper • I scrubber who does all the kitchen cleaning 1 store keeper 2 girls in help's hall The fruits, etc., are served direct from the store- room, which is located on the same floor with and adjoining (he kitchen, there being direct communica- tion. The coffee making is done by one of the waiters, the baking of griddle cakes and toasting bread is done by the baker's helper. The carving is done by the head cook and his assistant. There is no cream bought for the house, but the dairyman brings the milk fresh from the farm in the morning. It is then placed in cans which are sup- plied with air-tight covers, the milk is then placed n a box filled with ice water continually flowing from the large refrigerator. The next morning the cans are taken out and the milk drawn off by means of a faucet, leaving the cream in the can. There is no pantry, everything is served from the kitchen, bake- shop and storeroom, which makes bookkeeping rather difficult. The house sets a good table and the per capita cost is about 75 cents. The following are fair samples of breakfast, dinner and supper bills. a THE PRACTICAL BREAKFAST. Fruit in season. Rolled oats or Farina in cream. Radishes. Young onions. Broiled bluefish, parsley butter. B'ried panfish. Sirloin or tenderloin steak, plain or with onions. Ham. Calves liver and bacon. Mutton chops. Lamb hash on toast. Chipped beef in cream. Eggs as ordered. French fried or stewed potatoes. Rolls. Muffins. Toast. Griddle cakes, maple syrup. Apple butter. Tea. Coffee. Cocoa. DINNER, Split pea soup Boiled lake trout, anchovy sauce. Hollandaise potatoes. Olives Young onions. Pickles. Roast beef, drip gravy. Tame duck stuffed, apple sauce. Irish stew, Dublin style. Spanish puffs, wine sauce. Mashed potatoes. Boiled potatoes. Stewed tomatoes Green peas. Sugar corn. Sago pudding, lemon sauce. Mince pie. Cocoanut pie Almond ice cream. Assorted cake Nuts and raisins. Fruit. Cheese crackers. Coffee. SUPPER. Sardines on toast. Mangoes. Olives. Cracked wheat or pearl barley. Fried yellow pike, tomato sauce. Potatoes au Gratin. Broiled oysters on toast. Sirloin or tenderloin steak. Pork chops. Cold: Roast beef, ham and tongue. Eggs as ordered. Potatoes, baked, boiled or Saratoga. Potato salad. Tea rolls. Plain bread. Toast. Strawberry jam. Cake. Coflee. Chocolate. Tea. At this house were served numerous banquets, luncheons and collations. One of these was a re- past for 450 Knights of Pythias at one seating, price 50 cents a piate. The dining rooms would only ac- HOTEL STEWARD, commodate 200, and in order to seat the balance all adjoining sample rooms, parlors and hallways had to be utilized. In this way room for all was found and everybody served and satisfied. There was no printed menu, and everything, excepting ice cream, oysters and coffee was on the tables before the guests were seated. The following was served: Stewed oysters. Crackers. Relishes. Assorted sandwiches. Chicken salad. Sardines. Deviled eggs. Ice cream. Cake. Coffee. This was a successful house and made money for the proprietor. The help was not always the best. There was one bad feature with this house, and that was the help roomed all in one hall regardless of color or sex ; the result can be imagined ! ORGANIZATION OF A TWO-HUNDRED-ROOM CITY HOTEL OF THE FIRST CLASS. The following is the organization of a 200 room house in Chicago, rates $3,50 to $5.00 per day, located in the business district. I steward I inside steward I head waiter Kitchen crew of ten, including. I chef I second I roast cook and broiler r fry cook I butcher and cold meat man I vegetable cook I fireman and chicken butcher combined 1 pan washer 2 kitchen girls I pastry cook I baker I girl to help in bakeshop T girl in fruit pantry I girl in coffee pantry 1 girl in silver pantry 2 dishwashers (men) with machine I storekeeper I yardman The help is all of the best class and well paid. The service is of the finest that money can buy. The whole organization works to perfection. The inside steward superintends the serving of all meals. The chief steward spends but little time in the pantries; he buys the supplies, to last not over a week. The milk and cream are supplied from a herd of Jerseys belonging to the owner of the hotel. The bills of fare are perfect, the following being fair samples: BREAKFAST. Strawberries Oranges Baked apples Oatmeal Cerealine Cracked wheat THK PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD, 13 Fried oysters Stewed oysters Beignets of pineapple, sauce Chartreuse Fried— Perch, Smelts, Codfisli cakes Broiled — Bluefish, Fresh mackerel. Shad, Salt mackerel Whitefish, Smoked salmon Lamb steak with bacon Tenderloin steak Sirloin steak Breakfast bacon Ham Pig's feet Calf's liver and bacon Veal cutlet Honeycomb tripe Mutton chops Pork chops. Oconomowoc sausage, broiled or frifd Stewed lamb kidneys Broiled chicken Chipped beef in cream Fried onions Fried bananas Browned corned beef hash Fried hominy Potatoes — baked, French fried. Lyonnaise Hashed brown, Saratoga. Stewed in cream, au Gratin, German fried Fried sweet potatoes Mashed potatoes Boiled potatoes Sweet potato croquettes Spinach with egg Asparagus Kohlrabi Parsnip fritters Rum punch Broiled squab on toast Lettuce and tomato Steamed apple roll, wine sauce Apricot pie Cream glace Lemon custard pie Lady cake Assorted cake Bisque ice cream Fruit Dates Assorted nuts Raisins Figs Roquefort and Imperial cheese Coffee Eggs k la Meyerbeer Omelette with run Eggs poached The following constitutes the working force of a Scrambled eggs with oysters large and fashionable summer resort of about 500 French rolls Corn bread rooms, the nearest base of supplies being 350 miles Graham rolls Crescents Wheat muffins Toast to order distant Wheat and rice cakes English breakfast, Ceylon. Oolong and Green tea Coffee Chocolate Cocoa LUNCH. Blue points Bouillon with rice Welsh rarebit Dill pickles Radishes Olives Fillet of Pompano au Vin Blanc Cucumbers Potatoes vendome Chicken livers saute k la Financifere Macaroni, Milanaise Roast ribs of beef Roast fricandeau of lamb, tomato sauce COLD: Roast beef Ham Mutton Turkey Veal Beef tongue Boned pig's feet Lamb's tongue Sardines Lobster mayonnaise Lettuce Mashed potatoes Fried sweet potatoes Succotash Boiled potatoes Tomato fritters Butter rolls Apple pie Pumpkin pie Silver cake Black cherries Assorted cake Fruit sherbert Fruit Figs Dates I steward I headwaiter Kitchen crew of 17, including. I chef I second cook 1 assistant second 2 roast cooks and broilers 2 fry cooks I butcher I cold meat man I coffee man I vegetable cook I help's cook I fireman and chicken butcher I pan washer and fish cleaner 3 girls 1 baker ;cook L rved by them 2 helpers ) ^ 2 girls in fruit pantry 2 storekeepers (one the printer) f I to help receive goods I to handle ice 5 yardmen •{ i to keep yard and lawn in order I I to handle the garbage [ I roustabout 10 dishwashers, induing, one man who oper- ates the machine, 3 men sorters and 6 girls. 4 waiters in help's hall ;When the house is running full capacity, the head , I bread, pastry and ice cream I pastry cook > j c., »u„~ Neufchatel. Swiss, Young American & Edam cheese waiter's crew consists of himself, second and third Coffee Tea Milk Sweet cider • ^ . j „u * ,;*„-^ assistants, and about 100 waiters. A SYSTEM OF ORDERING SUPPLIES FROM DISTANT MARKETS. The house is located on a small island , all supplies must of necessity be shipped by steamers from De- troit or Chicago; the milk and cream comes by ex- press from 90 miles distant, put up in packages much Baked roe shad, sauce Venitienne ... ,.,... ,„, , . Cucumbers Potatoes Marquise ''ke those used in shipping ice cream. The fresh Radishes DINNER. Blue points Salted almonds Olives Cream of Terrapin, Baltimore Consomme Printanifere Deviled crabs en coquilles Roast tenderloin of beef larded, sauce Bearnaise Roast turkey, cranberry sauce Croquettes of sweetbreads, sauce Supreme Oyster patties i la Romaine meats are ordered twice a week from Chicago by boat, and the groceries, poultry and vegetables from Detroit, four times a week, so that it requires close attention to keep a houseful of people, (often as 14 THE PRACTICAL many as eight hundred in all,) well supplied and jet not have anything go to waste. The steward makes a list of all supplies wanted, with the "leaving time" of the boats at the distant markets and "time when due to arrive." The accompanying illustration will give an idea of this list, a glance at which shows the time goods must be ordered in order to secure their shipment by the regular boats at stated intervals, and the time the goods are due to arrive. For instance: To insure shipment of the goods on the boat leaving Chicago on Tuesday 8 PM. and due at the dock Thursday at 9 A. M., the order must be sent from the hotel the preceding Sunday. And, as these goods are not received by the time that another order must be sent for the next regular boat (boat service twice a week), the stock on hand must be added to the expected goods yet in transit, so that the steward can always order intelligently and keep an even stock on hand. This must be done to avoid the spoiling of goods by overstocking or the incon- venience of running out of supplies. HOTEL STEWARD, bills of fare first class. The following breakfast lunch and dinner bills are fair specimens. FiREAKFAST. FRUIT. Oat meal Sliced tomatoes Cerealine Radishes FISH. Broiled whitefish Fried trout Salt mackerel Codfish balls MISCELLANEOUS. Stewed chicken Corned beef hash BROILED. Sirloin steak Sugar cured ham Pork chops Breakfast bacon Mutton chops Tenderloin steak plain or with onions FRIED. Veal cutlets breaded, tomato sauce Pig's feet Sausage EGGS. Poached Scrambled Boiled Shirred Fried Omelettes plain, with ham, cheese or jelly POTATOES. Boiled potatoes Lyonnaise Stewed French fried BREAD. Hot breakfast rolls Plain bread Dry toast Milk toast Corn muffins Buttered toast Graham bread Wheat cakes Maple syrup Green tea Oolong tea English breakfast tea r ^ i- r t-l •^ ~i a. 0. 0. a p a a ■"1 » ^ ffl ■^ (t a " (t Meat list from ^ ^. ^ ^ c n Chicago. n 2 g 3 > 2 2 c D. P > 2 a a. 2 ^ liOins Beef 30 24 Ribs Beef 3f) 40 Loin Butts 300 lbs. 3.^0 lb Loins Pork 40 Rax Mutton 20 .■SO Lambs 6 4 Hams (iO Bacon 80 Lard 13 cans Sausage 50 1 bs. 50 1 bs Olives LUNCHEON. Puree a la Jackson Radishes Cucumbers Baked whitefish, a 1 Espagnole Browned potatoes Baked chicken pie, home style Baked potatoes Mashed potatoes Boiled rice Stewed tomatoes Sweet potatoes Wax beans Welsh rarebit Cracked wheat custard, brandy sauce Hot brown bread Celery salad Pickled beets Spiced salmon Sardines Pickled lamb tongues Cold turkey Roast beef Pork and beans Sugar cured ham Pork Smoked tongue Cardinal punch Peach pie Lemon pie California peaches in syrup Assorted cake Raspberry jam Cheese Crackers Tea Coffee DINNER. Clam chowder Consomme with rice Sliced tomatoes Olives Radishes At the end of the season it is but a few minutes work with the aid of these lists, to ascertain how many loins or ribs, or how many pounds of poultry^ etc., were used for the whole season. This is the most prosperous resort west of the Atlantic coast. The proprietor is a thorough hotel man and has about him a most efficient corps of assistants; the food is of the best quality and the Baked lake trout, Creole sauce Long Branch potatoes Boiled fresh beef, horseradish sauce Prime roast beef, browned new potatoes Young turkey, giblet and cranberry sauce Spring lamb, mint sauce Pork and beans Minced chicken on toast, Richmond Macaroni with cream, au gratin Deviled crabs, au garniture THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 15 Fish salad Pickled beets hand on the day of stock taking — usually once a New potatoes in cream Mashed potatoes month. A plain journal answers for this work, unless New cabbage stewed Corn fritters ^ jg desirable to keep a continual check on the Boiled rice Stewed tomatoes stock from day to day, for which purpose there are Queen pudding, wine sauce , , . ^, ■ . / . ■ , .. Apple pie Cocoanut pie some very complete ones in the market (notably the New York ice cream Assorted cake Fulwell stock book) which will enable the steward Mixed nuts Raisins Iced watermelon to check any part of his stock in a very short time. Roquefort and Edam cheese Bent's crackers r^,^ illustration of the Fulwell and other slock books Coffee ' . . will be given later in these columns.] THE HOTEL MONTHLY SYSTEM OF STORE- ROOM BOOKKEEPING. For a clear and concise illustration of these books (receiving, issue and stock). I know of no belter way than to reproduce the article on storeroom bookkeeping "Hotel Monthly system" which ap- peared in the Hotel Monthly of date May 1895, (as regards the receiving and issue books) and a part of a similar article in the issue of May 1893 (as regards the stock book) : [In this latter illustration STOREROOM BOOKKEEPING. There is no fixed method for storeroom bookkeep- ing. Nearly every steward has some idea of his own in which he desires this branch of his department conducted. When it devolves on him to start a new system in some house that is just being opened for business, he goes to the stationer and has a set of books made to suit his plans, and if the method is practical will be the adopted system of that particu. lar house. He usually adopts a plan which will iir.. ■' -■ .. j an extra book for the wine room is referred to and enable him to keep well informed in regard to ex- ... , , i ^ ° illustrated. J pense of his department and make prompt- and -r-i 1 1 . j j ft- The books etc., needed: accurate reports to the management. However, , ...,» ,■ , ■, A receiving bock. (An ordinary two-column wide of late \ears, the march of progress in this de- . , ,, ^ page journal answers the purpose.) partnient has kept pace with the advancement of , . ,,,.,,,, An issue book. (A book ruled similar to the one modern hotel keeping, and systems are being evolved .,, , , illustrated on page 16, the page measuring about by well known stewards which are practical and 14x16 inches.) comprehensive and are met with approval by hotel . , ,,,,,. A stock on hand book. (An ordinary manilla paper men in general. This will have the effect to make .,,.,., copying book, with index, answers the purpose.) hotel storeroom bookkeeping more uniform. « , , . ,, r . ... A hook or spindle for the requisitions. The steward is proud to have a well kept set of THE RECEIVING AND ISSUE BOOKS, books in his storeroom. They show business tact All goods received must be accompanied with the and are invariablv subject to comment. invoice, and the invoices, after being O. K'd. should The object of storeroom bookkeeping is to enable be copied and itemized into the receiving book. At the steward to observe from day to day the receipts the close of each day foot up the total value of the and disbursements of supplies and whether properly goods received. This will illustrate: and economically handled, and also to guard against May ist, 1895. leakages. p. M. SMITH, A simple yet comprehensive system which I have 3 gals. Selects, (§$1.25, r J 11 . , . . , 20 lbs. Salmon, @ 15c, found to meet all requirements, and is extensively used, is a set of three books, namely, a receiving ARMOUR & CO., book, an issue book and a stock book. 200 lbs. Beef Loin, @ 12c, 60 lbs. Mutton, @ io}4c ^.^. The receiving book is a plain day book or journal " $30.50 (such as is used in all business houses), in which is CORBIN, MAY & CO., entered the quantitv, kind and price of goods as they ^4° '^S- Granulated Sugar, @ 5c, 10 gals. Vinegar, @ 12c, are received. Afterward these entries are compared i doz. Olive Oil, with the regular invoices, and the latter approved (or returned for correction if necessary) by the ^7-45 * steward and sent to the office to be audited. .,,.. r,** At the beginning of the month take an inventory The issue book is for entering in the requisitions , , , , , , , of the storeroom and enter the total value of the as they come from the different departments and , ■ , . , , .,,,.. stock on hand in the place provided for it in recapit- are filled. , . , , , . , , , , . ulation column of the issue book. In this case say The stock book is used to record all goods on ,, , , , . . *„ the slock on hand inventories $800. $3 ■75 3 .00 $24. 00 6. 50 $7- 00 I. 20 2 00 S6.75 I6 THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD Storeroom Issue Book, Hotel Monthly System Date, KITCHEN DINING ROOM OFFICE BAB ' 2 doz. SiuMtbrtad, 1 60 6 gal. CrMm 3 ice 1 50 5yai. Buurbon 9 SO 10 lb,. Flour 30 Mtb,. Sugar 1 1 bot. Ink 30 3 pk. potatoes 2 doz. cucumbers 48 lbs. rax lamb 20 lbs. chicken 75 patties 6^ doz. quail I case lettuce 3^ crate tomatoes I qt. oil - - - X doz. eggs 1 pt. vinegar 3^ gal. cream 2 lbs. jelly 2 lbs. hominy - 2 lbs. cooking butter 4 lbs. salt pork 12 cans peas 2 lbs. flour 1 pt. sherry 4 cans mushrooms 2}4 gal- punch 23^ gal. ice cream 15 qts. strawberries }4 lb. cheese 2 lbs. crackers Cake I lb. coffee Total issues 10 w^aiters. $r.oo each Extra cook, i day 75 covers a $2 50 Less issues and expense as above 75c. 20c. 30c. IOC 20C. ISC. I2C. 15c per doz. $1.50 $i 00 I 40 20 60 40 7 20 3 40 98 9 75 75 1 50 50 07 02 40 28 04 26 48 2 40 06 13 • 60 I 20 I 95 7 50 20 24 I 20 33 $48 14 10 00 3 00 $ 61 14 $187 50 61 14 $126 34 * * STEWARD'S MEMORANDA. The spread was satisfactorily served ; all guests pleased. Waiter James Brown broke two bouillon cups. Waiter H. Samson is too slow and lacks training. Balance, all O. K. WINE SERVED. 8 quarts Sauterne 12 " Pontet Canet 18 " Champagne Mendelsohn Quintette $15 00 Flowers - - 20 00 S 16 CO 30 00 72 00 8ii8 00 Time to serve: one hour and twenty minutes. THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. Requisition Blanks. These Storeroom Requisition Blanks are in use in a first class hotel, and are printed liere to give a general idea of a form which, with slight alterations to meet particular demands, will be found satis- factory. The size of sheets can be made to suit the convenience of the printer, It is well to distinguish the different blanks by having the paper for each of a different color. NORTHERN HOTEL. STORE ROOM Deliver to Kitchen: Wanted NORTHERN HOTEL. MARKET ROOM Deliver to Kitchen: Wanted B'f, sh'trns '■ ribs " liver " kidney " corned " ox tails " skins " tongues M"t'n racks saddles lees loins Lamb, racks kidneys fries pkd tng Veai.h'd'q'tr foreq't'r Calf's head ' brains feet ' liver Pork, loins t'nd'rlns sausage Pig's feet Sweetbreads Tripe Hams Bacon Fowls Lard POULTRY & GAME Eggs E'glish snipe Geese Grouse Partridge Plover Quail Duck, red h'd cvas b'k mallard teal tame Riceblrds Reedblrds Squabs, tame wild Turkeys Woodcock Spng chick'n Fowls FISH AND SHELL F'SH Codfish salt Blueflsh Blackfish Halibut Haddock Mack'r'lfrsh salt Smelts Shad Bass, striped sea black lake Whiteflsh Salmon smoked Sheep's head Flounders Wanted Pompano Weakflsh KIngflsh Trout, lake brook Lobster Crabs, soft oyster H'r'ng kip'rd " Holland " marinirt Shrimps Crawfish Frog's legs Scallops Help's fish Terrapin Green turtle Red snapper Perch Pickerel Pike Turbot Soles Raie or skate Oysters L'tlfn'kclms Anchovies ardines ' Russian '• boneless " domestic Caviare Salt sard'len V'G'TBLES Apples Asparagus Beets Brussels spts Cabbage Carrots Cauliflower Celery Chicory Chives Cranberries Cucumbers Egg plant Escarole Green corn Green peas Green pep'rs Horse r'dish Kale Ijceks Lettuce Lima beans Mint Onions Oyster plant Parsnips Parsley Potatoes sweet Radishes Romaine Sorrel Spinach tring beans Squash Tomatoes Turnips Fresh mushrooms Watercress .189 CANNED GOODS Artichokes Asparagus American " French Beans, Lima String " Wax Brussels spts Caviare Corn Lobster Mushrooms Peaches Pears Peas, French " American Pine apples Sardines Shrimps Sorrel Succotash Truffles peelings Apples .\nchovies Allspice Beans, white Barley Brooms Brushes Cassia, whole ' ground Cloves. "hole ' ground Corn starch Curry, pwdrd Capers Citron Chocolate Cheese Cracker dust Currants Cr'ked wheat Clams Flour Farina Ginger Gelatine Wanted Herbs, ■■ Sage.whle '• gr'nd " Thyme whole '■ " gr'nd " Bay le'ves Hominy Jelly Lemons Port wine Sherry Whiskey Brandy Rum Alcohol Claret Mustard Mace, whole ground Macaroni Meal, corn ' oat N'tm'gs.whle Olive oil Olives Pails Pepper, gr'd " whole " white " cayenne Pea meal Pickles Raisins Rice Rice flour Sugar. powdered gr'nul't'd brown Salt Sago Soap Saltpetre Twine Tapioca Tomatoes Vermicelli Vinegar Worcester- shire sauce Sapolio Italian paste NORTHERN HOTEL. STOREROOM Deliver to Fruit Pantry Wanted lbs B'st coffe " Help " Oolong tea " Green " " Eng.bre'k fast tea " Help tea •' Chocolate " T'blebut'r " Help " " Almonds " Filberts ■' Pecans " Walnuts " Cut sugar ■' Pow'd •' " Gran '• ' Salt ■' Pepper " Mustard •' Water crackers " Soda " Oyster " " Whitening " Creamery cheese " Roqueft cheese " Swiss •' Edam " Brie " Camenb'rt Wanted Doz. eggs Current jelly cans Apric'ts Cherries Peaches Pears Pineapple Plums Quinces Sardines Salmon box Lemons Raisins Toothp'ks Maf^hes bot. Worces. sauce " Half'd •■ " anch'vi '' " tobsco ■■ ■• cliowchow " Gherkins •' M'x'dp'k's •• Olive oil BHth bricks Bars soap gals. Olives ■ Vi'iegar • M'plesy'p " R'ckc'ndy syrup " Cream " Milk THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. A Steward's Market List of Perishable Foods. MARKET LIST, 189.... 3X. On Hand Veal Rib K"8t Beef Help •• Loin Ten'rloin " Kounds •' Strips Koils Shanks PlateC'n'd" Hump " •' Tongues, Fresh Beef " Pkl'd " Ox Tails •• Liver " Sw'tbr'ds " Suet Loins Mutton LCBB Kax Whole Kidney Lamb Whole Half Lee Foreqt'r " Loin Sw'tbr'ds " Liver Loin Pork Larding Ten'rloin " Salt Young Pig Pork Sausage Lyon Vienna " Fresh Tripe Pickled Tripe Fr'sh Pig's Ft Pkld.Pigs Ft Pig's .Jowl Lamb's Tong. Lamb's Fries Pig's Tongue Calf's Head No. 1 Hams No. 2 Hams No 1 Racon No 2 Bacon No. 1 Lard No. 2 Lard Wantea Lake Trout Brook Trout WhiteHsh Pike Pickerel I'eroh Pan Ush UliKk bass Sturgeon Salmon Smelts Halibut Kedsnapper Fresh Cod Salt Haddock PompanoJ BlueUsh Sea Bass Flounders Fin an Had'e F'h Mackerel Spanish ". Salt Buck Shad Uoe Sliad Uoe Soles Live Lobster Boiled •' Crabs Shrimps Scallops Turtle Terrapin Crawfish Frog Legs Quohaug Clm LittleNeck " Pea Nut Shell Oysters Count Select Standard " On Hand Wanted On Hand Tom Turkey Hen Turkey Hens Cocks Iloast Chick's Broiling " (ieese Ducks I'igeons Squabs Pheasant Prairie Chic. Grouse Doe Birds Kice Birds Plover Snipe Quail Wild Geese Brant Mallard D'ks Teal Ducks Canvas Back Ducks Antelope Old Potatoes New '■ Sweet " White T'nips Ruta-baga Squash Cabbage Carrots Parsnips Old Onions loung Garlic Sharlots Chives I>eeks String Beans Wax Navy " Lima Green Corn Cireen Peas Caulillower Asparagus Egg Plant Oyster Plant Spinach New Beets Beet Greens Wanted On Hand Wanted Dandelions Brussel Spr'ts Tomatoes Lettuce Chicory Radishes Mushrooms Parsley Sorrel Chevrll Mint Tarragon ('elery Celery Roots Hor>e Radish (i rated Horse Radish Root Green Peppei Red Pepper Water Cress |{liubarb Oranges Lemons Bananas Table Apples Cooking " Grapes Creamerv Butter Dairy Cooking " Eggs Amer Cheese Brie Cam'bert " Edam Gorg'zola" Paragon " Neufcha'l" Parmesan" Roquefort" Stilton Swiss ■' Sweet -Milk Skimmed Butter Cream reast Perishables "On Hand" and "Wanted." The above list of perisliable foods appeared in the Hotel Monthly of September 1893, as a contribu- tion from Mr. G. DeM. Sherman, then steward of the Virginia Hotel, Chicago, and now manager of The Cairo at Washington, D. C, who compiled it with the idea of its being a help to him in marketing, which it has proved to be. Thi^ sheet upon which it is printed for his use is iix 17 inches in size, and the vertical columns are uniform % of an inch in width. The list is arranged so that every article can be readily located. First comes the beef meats, then the mutton, veal, pork and fancy meats. The second column is devoted to fish, beginning with the fresh, then the salt water and ending with the shell fish. The third column begins with poultry, which is fol lowed by game. Next comes the vegetables — the dry first, then the green, continuing with herbs and ending with fruits. The list ends with dairy foods. The columns headed "On Hand" and "Wanted" are of especial value, particularly the "Wanted" column. In some hotels which do a moderate busi- ness the "On Hand" column need not be filled in with the entire stock; but the "Wanted" column, if properly attended to, will keep many a bill of fare from being "scratched," which in itself is a great deal, for a scratched bill of fare is an abomination. In a house that does a big business it will be found of great advantage to have the "On Hand" column filled in, and will more than repay the trouble it takes in the convenience it affords. aa THE PRACTICAL HOIKL STEWARD. T^iTtrirtrr perishable goods, but, if perishable, should consider J O" well before buying. The goods may be all right if On the methods employed in buying depends the used at once, but if it is necessary to carry them for welfare of the hotel to a great extent. To go buy- several days, and in the meantime become unfit for ing with a well filled purse, or for a laige and pros- use, the bargain becomes a total loss. Among the parous concern with good credit, who settle their staple articles which can not be found at bargains bills promptly, and where the cost need not be taken are coffee and flour. When a house has a blend of into consideration, it is an easy task. Anybody can coffee which pleases, it should be continued right buy for such a house. But where a house depends along; and so with flour: to insure good bread there on the close and economical buying of the steward, should be kept a brand that runs even the year it is not so easy, and it requires a man who has a around. knowledge of the qualities of different brands of The standard lines of canned goods can often be goods as well as of the grades of meats, poultry, bought cheap — lower than the market is likely to be. game, fish, and, in fact, everything that is needed It is well in such a case to buy. in a hotel. There should be a regular day every week for When the merchant buys he figures if his class of buying groceries and at no time should the steward trade can afford to pay the price he will be required buy goods to last longer than one month, no matter to charge to make a living profit, and if he can dis- how cheap, especially where the market is near at pose of said goods before they prove a loss by hand. reason of long exposure, or, if perishable, are spoiled In buying perishable goods such as fresh meats, from too much handling. poultry, fish, oysters, game, vegetables, fruit and To buy for a hotel is different in some ways, dairy products, he should himself make all selections Everything the steward buys is for current use and at the time of purchase, and should be able to judge It is not necessary to figure on a direct profitable for himself whether the butter is just what he needs, return, but to procure all articles at a justifiable the fish is really fresh, or the poultry is young, and, price, and at the same time satisfy and please the above all, if the beef is just the qualiiy he wants, guests. The steward should be able to calculate how much In preparing to go to market the question is, what he needs for his guests without having a lot left over to buy, how much is needed and how long will the that can not be put to good use. A great many goods keep; also the kind of goods, if for a $2.00 a things, if not all used at one meal, can be carried day house or for a $3.00 to $5.00 a day house ; if for until, by adding a little more, will make another a first class restaurant, or fashionable club, as every meal. But there are many things it will not do to one of the above requires goods of a different buy more than enough for a day at the time, such as quality. berries in season, etc. When a house engages a man to buy who is not The steward should also know how to take care possessed of the required knowledge it will pay of the supplies which he buys, meats, of course, re- school money, which in some instances amounts to quiring most attention, quite a sum until he has learned. Where there is a good ice box or system of refrig- A steward in buying should always ask the price eralion, and proper attention given, there is practic- of the goods wanted before taking them, no matter ally no loss. how regular he gets the same article, or reliable the TO MARKET firm. Prices change on all goods; they may have 1 *-' 1 rv advanced to a figure too high, in which case it would The steward should not use tobacco or strong require the selection of another brand. A good firm drink before going to market, as such indulgence appreciates the strict business methods in a buyer easily affects the fine sense of taste necessary. I and will take better care of his orders than if he will endeavor to illustrate a trip to the market for comes in, reads off his list of articles wanted in a a $3.00 per day hotel, with a housecount of 200, careless way, with an "I-don't-ask-prices : my-house- starting at the head of the list : can-pay-for-them," air. The steward should buy OYSTERS IN SHELL— A very desirable dish in just like the merchant, who first figures on the prob' season and about four-fifths of the guests will call able profit. The steward on his tour of marketing for them. Allowing five to the Drder makes eight often meets with what are called bargains, which he hundred. Where they are used more than once a should take advantage of if they are staple and non- week it is cheapest to buy them by the barrel ; jthey Sirloin, 17 po unt Is, 32 Tenderl loin. 5 16 Hip 10 24 Fat 8 ■' Flank 4 " Bone 14 " THE PRACriCAL HOTEL STEWARD. 23 will keep for several days in a cool place with is served ; that will require 140 steaks. In order to cracked ice over them. Oysters in bulk for stewing, find how many loins are needed I will give my ex- if not frequently served, will take about three gallons perience of cutting two loins different in size and solid measure per meal; when served daily for quality. The first loin weighs 68 pounds, first class, breakfast, half that quantity is sufficient. Large well fed young steer ; oysters for frying, when used every daw one and one-half gallons; but when served twice a week about three gallons are required. Oysters to be in good condition should not float nor have a strong odor, and should be kept in a cool place and pieces of ice placed in the tub. They spoil vory quickly in warm air. Hip for help 10 CLAMS — Little necks: not so many are used as Total 68 72 steaks of oysters, only about half the guests will call for Loin cost 16 cents per pound gives a total of $10.88. them. They sell at about the same price as shell Deduct from this $1.98, the highest value of parts oysters and are kept the same way. For Fri- not used as steaks, and you have $8.90, net value of day's dinner for chowder it will require about 350 seventy-two steaks, which makes each steak worth large clams. about 12.3 cents. FISH— Where fish is served at every meai iiie The second loin weighed only 54 pounds and cost ratio per guest is not over one-sixth of a pound for ig cents per pound: each. This applies to the varieties whicli are to be Sirloin. 8 pounds, 24 steaks had the year around, such as whitefish. bluefish. Tenderloin 3^, " 12 trout, Spanish mackerel, halibut, etc. Ratio gross Hip jj •• 13 weight will run almost double, or a trifle over one- Flank 10 quarter pound on such fish as red snapper, bass and Bones 10 pike, on account of the increased waste in cleaning Paj loi^ " them, mainly large heads. The shad being a very desirable fish when it first comes in the market the Total 54 49 .,, , .J * Cost of loin S4 pounds at 16 cents per pound was ratio will run about one-quarter pound per guest. -^^ ' - , ^ 1 J $8.64. Deduct 02 cents, value of waste cuts, leaves I place my hsh order: ■>■ -t y ,f f 1 •. c I j^ $7 72, the cost of 49 steaks or ■ s.^ cents each. The If for whitefish, 33 pounds i-/ / ■ -^^ If for bluefish, 33 pounds fi"' 'o'" '''^^ '^'"'^'^ ^"^ "^^d in Chicago; the latter If for red snapper, 50 pounds in the South and was of inferior quality compared If for shad, 12 single or 48 pounds with the former. It will require two loins of well If for smelts, 15 pounds fed young steer. If for pan fish, 8 pounds. RIBS— Next 1 need ribs ; how many :- I will see. A In selecting fish : To tell if fresh the gills should good carver can cut from 55 to 65 cuts out of a rib of have a natural red color, the eyes clear, and, by 35 pounds. About 70 per cent of the guests call for pressing the finger beind the small upper fin nearest roast beef, and since the chef has no cold beef for the tail, the fish should feel firm; but if the finger tomorrows lunch, I will take 4 ribs. Tomorrow I strikes the back bone the fish is old. After the fish can take one less. The difference between a steer is delivered at the hotel it should be cleaned, then rib and that of a cow is, the bones of the former are ice sliould be broken fine, place in layers the fish smaller, not so curved, and carry thicker meat on and ice alternately, but the fish should not be cut or the back. split before it is to be used, as by cutting fish and MUTTON— When mutton is young and reasonably then icing, the best of the fish, its flavor, is lost. fat is is always a desirable dish, especially as chops. FRESH MEATS— Next on the list are the fresh It will require about half pound to the guest, or meats. Seldom are they bought from day to day. fourteen racks of seven pounds each, or 98 The steward usually buys ahead for several days, pounds and you get ten chops to each rack. Sliort but this time we will buy enough for one day only. racks are cut about one inch below the lower rib. LOINS OF BEEF— This house serving no supper The neck is cut away at the other end and the it will be required for breakfast only. About 70 per short or breast ribs are cut away. In serving lamb cent, of the guests eat steak, where a good qualily chops (of which the per cent, required for each guest 24 THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. is far greater than mutton) I have found that it is bies that of a pheasant. They are usually served more profitable to buy the whole front quarters, boiled. They are easily told by a scar in front ol For instance, if it takes twenty racks of lamb at five the leg and near the back. For boiling I buy in tne pounds each— one hundred pounds, we will say, at same ratio as for chicken. thirteen cents per pound, would be a cost of $13.00. GAME— The season being very short on some va- Now take twenty fore-quarters weighing eight pounds rieties, it is served as often as the house can afford each, would be a total of 160 pounds at eight cents while the season lasts. per pound, $12.80. After trimming there are sixty MALLARD DUCKS, when properly cooked, are pounds of breast and neck worth three cents per well liked by the average guest. There are about pound, or $1.80. Deduct this from the first cost and six small orders in one duck, and as nearly every the twenty racks will cost just $11.00, a gain of $2.00. guest calls for mallard, I buy three dozen. There is no profit in buying heavy mutton this way. TEAL being very small, only two orders to each Where either mutton or lamb chops are served every duck, I buy eight dozen. morning the quantity used will be much less. QUAIL— About ninety per cent, of the guests will In buying lamb for roasting it requires about half call for them; also snipe and plovers. It requires a pound to the guest; fresh pork three-eighths pound; fifteen dozen to make a meal of any of the above, fresh pork sausage, for breakfast, about twenty allowing one to an order. pounds. PARTRIDGES — In first class houses partridges I now go to the poultry dealer. F irst on the list are are served a half to an order, usually , but in a $3.00 TURKEYS; it will take about 150 pounds, or three- per day house I make four orders, and in that way quarter pound for each guest, of undrawn well fat- four dozens will serve a dinner. tened young turkeys for a dinner. They should be PRAIRIE CHICKEN will cut in six orders, so even in size and weigh about fifteen to sixteen three dozen will do of them, pounds each. OTHER GAME such as venison, elk, antelope and CHICKENS, old, when used for pie, will require bear, one saddle is enough for a dinner, about eighty-five pounds; when for boiling, about * * * one-hundred pounds. Young chickens for roasting, BUTTER can not be bought without trying. The about 150 pounds. To tell when a chicken is young, color should be even, the flavor sweet, and contain press on the point of the breast bone; if it gives it 3^°"^ one ounce of salt to the pound. Butter should easily proves that it is not matured, but if firm and be kept in a separate box, away from fruits or sharp it is an old chicken cooked foods of any kind, as it easily absorbs foreign DUCKS AND GEESE-It requires the same quan- o^ors and becomes tainted, tity as turkeys for roasting. A sure way to tell when VEGETABLES (excepting asparagus) will keep a duck or goose is young, is to press the wind-pipe ^^^ several days and can therefore be bought in between thumb and finger; if it crushes with ordi- quantities as bargains present themselves. Aspara- nary effort they are young; the old ones will not gus being the most desirable vegetable in the market, Qj-ygj^ when in season, more than enough for one or two OLD PIGEONS for pie will require about seven "leals should not be bought, as they will not keep. jQ2en APPLES are usually packed in barrels. In buying SQUAB for broiling are served whole and nearly them I always have them opened, one. and sometimes every guest orders it. It is a most expensive dish, both ends; then inspect to the depth of several SPRING CHICKENS for broiling should weigh layers before taking them. about eighteen pounds to the dozen and serve half ORANGES are the most desirable fruit that we a chicken for an order. As nearly every guest is have for the table ; they are healthful and the aver- sure to order spring chicken, about eight dozen will age guest prefers them to any other fruit, and every be required. It is safest to buy them by weight as good house of any standing should have them for it insures a more even size. breakfast as long as they are to be had at a reason- CAPONS, or gelded cocks, are among the most able price. Florida oranges are the best in the desirable of domestic fowl in the market. The fact American market, but Mexico and California also of their being altered when about two months old produce large quantities of the fruit of fairly good they are easily fattened and grow quite large; their quality. Oranges two hundred to the box are just flesh is of a most delicate flavor, and the breast, the right size for an American plan hotel. It requires when roasted and nicely carved, very much resem- about one and a half boxes for a breakfast. THF-: PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 25 SMALL FRUITS— The berry season is always in the South require large quantities of fresh fruits iooked forward to with great delight by the hotel and vegetables, but less meats. My approximations guest, and the steward takes pride in serving them apply only to centrally located houses catering to as early as possible; but as there is nothing on the transient patronage, rate from S2.00 to $3.50 per day, bill of fare which they take the place of, it also and where a condensed bill of fare is in use. means an increase in storeroom expenditures, until A steward, no matter how well he understands his they are plentiful, when they are served daily in business, must first learn the wants of the guests of different styles, they then take the place of other the house for which he is to buy, before he can do fruit. The first to reach the market are from the so intelligently; mathematical calculations are of South, and of poor quality. There are about five little use without practical knowledge of the require- orders to every quart; it will take about thirty-six ments of the table in the particular locality in which quarts. he buys. GROCERIES are usually bought in quantities to * * last from two weeks to a month and selections are l„. cities there are many establishments who deal in made by samples, mainly. A poor observer can g^oods needed in hotels and are in competition for patro- spend more money than needed : for example I want : nage. This if the means of fair prices on certain CANNED PEAS, paid last $1.35 per doz. The commodities. salesman shows a sample very good for the above // is a true saying that "competition is the life of figure, but, he says, "I have a lot in for ten cents trade.' This is especially so -with regard to dealers in per dozen less which are fully equal to this sample." perishable goods. The steivard or bnyer bearing this in He brings a sample, which, upon opening, I find as mind can. by close watching, often buy very cheaply. It good, and it suits me first rate. By taking twenty should be one of his chief aims to keep posted on condition cases I gain S4. 00, which, if I had given the order of the market. But I do not believe it a good idea to keep without further inquiry, would not have been made; the patronage too much divided and uncertain. To select and so with everything I buy. afetv reliable firms who may depend on selling you a cer- TEA requires the most attention as the dealer tain amount of goods is commendable, as they will find must be relied on to a great extent. There are it to their interest to take good care of you. and will give three varieties of tea which are sufficient for any any advantage that may offer both in prices and quality. American plan house to carry; they are Oolong^ If you are nobodys custotner they will all try to take ad- English Breakfast SiuA Young Hyson. With these in vantage of you, and if the particular goods you watit are Stock many different blends can be made by mixing scarce, will not care to sell you at all, unless for exorbi- different proportions and the guest suited. tant prices, as they prefer to keep them for their regular In buying teas I have samples drawn of the kind patrons. The fact that a frm is larger or wealthier than wanted. Plenty of time should be taken in passing another is no evidence that they handle the best goods for upon the qualities. Five or six dollars is easily the lowest prices; nor is it any reason why there should saved and at the same time have a tea that is just be discrimination in their favor : but the man zi'ho tells what is wanted. you in plain language the best he can do and then sticks COFFEE — The principal element of success in to his promise is the right party to patronize. Lookout making coffee is good material to make it with, for the man loho wants to be too nice to you: he may Coffe for breakfast should be stronger than for cause you to pay for all of his polite honors and smiles. lunch and dinner, for the reason that every coffee Where the buying must be done by mail orders it is drinker is a connoisseur at breakfast. I find a blend far more difficult to attain desired results. You arc of three-quarter Old Government Java and one- entirely dependent en the dealer; he can send what he quarter Mocha will make a very satisfactory coffee sees 7nust be first disposed of, and occasionally one gets for the average hotel. When a blend is found which goods from some {otherwise) reliable firms that would is satisfactory to the house it should be continued, hardly be looked at where a choice can be had. Here, Frequent changes are rot commendable. again, it is most necessary to select a reliable house who * * * have a good business standing. Write and tell them The ratio which I have applied in my illustrations 7C'hat class of goods you need, and then, if what is sent is in buying is not intended for houses of all grades not up to the required standard, tiotify them that thegoods and localities; for instance: hotels by the sea shore are held subject to their order. They will soon find thai and northern lake resorts use a great deal of fish, they must send what is desired or lose your patronage. where it is just fresh out of the water; and hotels Last, but ?tot least, buy from no one who is ready to »6 THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. offer personal tnducements, and don't let a fnan sell you of soda. Place the meat or fowl in this for several g-Qods that you have no need of. Buy just what you want hours, then wash well, and, after drying thoroughly and no more. with a clean cloth, it will be perfectly sweet, but I have foand it a good custom to talk'matters over with should be used immediately, or soon as possible the chef before ordering or going to the market. For thereafter. the steward and chef to act in conjunction in all such There is now an article in the market called "pre- matters saves the house tnany a dollar. servaline," by using a small quantity of which will PRESERVATION OF MEATS. preserve meat and even restore to a fresh appear- A refrigerator in which an equable temperature ^^^e. By sprinkling a very little of this preparation of from 36 to 40 degrees can be maintained will keep o^*^^ ^ ^''^J' °f sweetbreads for instance, and cover meats for over three weeks. I found in taking a trip ^^'^h fine ice they will remain fresh for two weeks, through the principal packing houses of Chicago, CORNED BEEF-To make corned beef (sweet that in the large chill rooms where all fresh killed Pickle): Make a salt brine, strong enough to carry cattle, sheep and hogs are lung for cooling, the a potato; then add a quarter pound saltpetre and temperature ranged from 32 to 40 degrees. These three pounds sugar to two-hundred pounds beef; rooms (which it is worth any hotel mans time to 'h^n place the beef in this and leave thirty days see) cover acres of floor space, and hundreds of "^^ore using. dressed cattle hang in rows so exact that the sight DRY, SALT OR SMOKED BEEF. -Place in layers is beautiful to behold. The cooling is done by coils '" ^ square tank or vat using coarse salt only. After of pipe placed side by side about fourteen feet over- 'saving the meat in the salt for thirty days take out head and extending the entire length and width of and place in fresh water to draw for twelve hours; the ceiling. These are regulated by vents by which take the beef, wipe with a cloth, then hang up to dry the cold blast can be increased or diminished at and smoke. will. The meat dealer goes into these rooms and H.\MS:-The same process as corned beef is makes his selections and then has the privilege to employed, but they should remain in the brine for let his beef purchase hang there until sufficiently six weeks to be well cured, then wash in fresh water, aged, which is not less than ten days and sometimes ^^'P^ ^'^h a cloth, hang up to dry and smoke, as long as three weeks. The meat when taken from BACON requires about half the time of hams, this storage appears as fresh as if just killed. PRESERVATION OF DRESSED GAME. I believe where small refrigerators are built, using Take a flat square tin pan not over two inches the above plan, the best results are met with. deep; lay the birds or other game, flat, packing close BEEF should always hang and be kept free from side by side until the pan is full; then cover with ice. another pan a size larger that fits closely when in- POULTRY should also hang and be kept as dry verted; set in a box; then bury in fine broken ice as possible. to a depth of about three inches, and scatter a little RESTORATIVE — When a piece of meat or a fowl salt over the ice. In this way game will keep a long becomes wet or sticky from being kept in too warm time in perfectly fresh condition, but it should be a place, make a tub of cold water in which dissolve used immediately after exposure. Game should about half once each of saltpetre and bi-carbonate never touch the ice, always keep dry. THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 27 BILLS OF FARE press not undertaken the task of reformation. Even now one can plainly see where papers treating on The arrangement of bills of fare is a most import- ,. ,. . . , , this subject are not read in some of the country ant part of the steward's duties, and in the under- districts, taking of this work ho should be possessed of good taste as well as a knowledge of different kind» of STEWARD AND CHEF WORK TOGETHER. dishes, so that he may be enabled to arrange them In making bills of fare the steward and chef should in the order in which they ought to be eaten, and at vvork together; it can be done with better advan- the same time give them an artistic appearance. tage to the house than is possible where the steward The bills of fare of a hotel are often sent away makes the whole bill and not consult any one. The by the guests to (heir friends, as well as to guests soups and entrees belong to the chef; he always has and landlords of other houses in different parts of something in his ice box left over which he can use the country. The traveling public is interested in best according to his own ideas, while if the steward them for the reason that they may have occasion to tries to dictate to him what he (the chef) should stop at the house where the bill is from and begin to make out of the articles the chef may have on hand, judge the house by what it offers the guest to eat. the same pains will not be taken as if he were per- The hotelman studies the bill from a business stand- mitted to follow his idea. point; he criticises the ability of the steward, and IMPORTANT CONSIDERATIONS IN BILL OF he looks for new ideas, which if he considers good, FARE MAKING. would try to emulate. The principal considerations in arranging bills of THE BILL OF FARE REFLECTS THE HOUSE, fare are; first, what class of house; second, the Bills of fare aie subject to much comment and are, class of patronage to be catered to, whether trans- in many instances, considered in the light of a lent or family ; and, third, where located. reflector of the manner in which the house is con- RATE PATRONAGE I OCALITY ducted. They certainly do reflect the stewarding j^ .^ necessary to consider the class house because 01 the same. U jg ^^ ^f pgggon to use the same kind of bill for a Well arranged bills of fare come only from a house ^^^ ^ ^^^ ,,^^^1 ^^ ^,^^j ^^^^ -^ ^ ^^^^^ ^^^^ charges where the back part is harmoniously conducted. $5.00 a day for accommodation. It would be ruinous To serve a well selected and arranged bill of fare ^^ ^j^^ cheaper house. with required changes every day is essential, and g^. ,,^,3^^ ^^ patronage" I mean, whether they are can be done in the cheaper houses just as well as ^j ^^^^ transient, such as professional traveling men in the high priced ones. In treating this subject it ^f ^„ nationalities patronizing the same house; or is not my aim to formulate anything original or to -^ ^j^^^ ^^^ permanent residents in a family hotel, offer anything that is not known to the veterans in j^ .^ ^^,^„ j^,^^^^.^ ^,^.^^ ^,,g American eats his food the profession. only mildly seasoned — no strong heavy sauces; he I will endeavor to illustrate as well as possible gats his roast beef and steaks mostly rare; while the methods adopted in making bills of fare which I ^^^ German prefers well done roasts, heavy soups believe will meet with general approval. There will ^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^^^ ^..^j, p,^^^^ ^^ seasoning. appear herewith a large and well arranged collec- j,, ^^^■^^. ,,^j^,^ ^^.^^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^ ^ ^^^^^ ^^^^^^ tionof models from houses ranging from $2.00 per ladies and children to satisfy, the stewards posi- day upward, representing all localities, and may be ^.^^ j^ ^ ^^^^ ^^^.^^ ^^^ ^-j^^^ p,^^^^^ ^^^ ^.^ taken as a fair average, the major part of them hav- „. .,^„„ .. „ „,i,„, vr^* i„ „ ui ^ j- ° ■> ^ pleases the other. Not long ago, while standing in ing been favorably commented upon by various ^,,^ ^^^^^^^ ^^ ^^^ ,,^^^, .^ ^^.^.^^ ^ ^^,^^ engaged, a prominent hotel papers. lady came to me and said 'I wish to compliment INFLUENCE OF THE PRESS IN BILL OF you on your nice meals, but my husband does not FARE REFORMATION. like the coffee, he says it is not good." And while To the hotel press is due all the credit for the expressing my regrets along came a second lady progress which has been made in the improvement with profuse compliments and especially praising in bill of fare making. All the older men in the the coffee. Of course this created considerable profession well know how irregular the style of merriment at the expense of both parties. This making bills of fare was only a few years ago, [and will give only a faint idea. These houses require what monstrosities were often met with, which un- more radical changes in cookery than any other doubtedly would exist at the present time had the class. S8 THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. By "locality" is meant whether the house is loca- ted convenient to a good market, with ample variety of material easily procured at reasonable prices. When a steward from a city goes to take charge of a hotel in a country town he finds it necessary to study all the conditions referred to above, learn prices and what there is at his command, before he can make a bill of fare to suit the house. BILLS OF FARE TO BE EVEN IN QUALITY. Another very important item that should be consid- ered in making bills of fare for houses of any class is that the expensive articles are evenly distributed during the week with the cheaper ones; for instance, taking a dinner for Tuesday, there are on the bill: DINNER Consomme Colbert Split peas Celery Olives Broiled pompano Saratoga potatoes Boiled capon Roast beef Spring lamb Sweetbreads Lobster Newburg Mashed and boiled potatoes New asparagus New peas Corn Cardinal punch Lettuce and tomato mayonnaise Indian pudding Pie Strawberries Ice cream Cake Nuts and raisins Cheese and crackers Coffee Cost for 200 people : Celery Pompano Capon Beef Lamb Sweetbreads Lobster Asparagus 5 5-25 12.00 27 00 14.00 8.60 5.64 5.00 6.00 $83,49 And on Wednesday the bill would be as follows DINNER Consomme Julienne Cream of barley Radishes Olives Boiled lake trout HoUandaise potatoes ijoiled corned beef and cabbage Roast beef Turkey Lobster croquettes Spaghetti Mashed and boiled potatoes String beans Tomatoes Turnips Orange ice Vegetable salad Pudding Pie Wine jelly Ice cream Cake Fruit Nuts and raisins Cheese crackers Coffee Cost for 200 people : Radishes - - $ 2.0c Trout - - ■ 2. ro Corned beef and c - 4-50 Beef - ■ ■ 14.00 Turkey - - - 16.50 Spaghetti - - 44 String beans - - 1.80 Lobster croquettes It will be noticed that the bill of Tuesday con- tained all high priced material and probably would make a satisfactory bill ; but Wednesday is slighted, the material is all cheaper. Calculations should be far enough ahead to avoid such contrasts. The same material will make two bills more evenly balanced and meet with better results. For instance, I will give on Tuesday DINNER Consomme Colbert Split peas Radishes Olives Boiled trout HoUandaise potatoes Boiled capon Roast beef Spring lamb Lobster Newburg Spaghetti Mashed and boiled potatoes Green peas Corn Tomatoes Cardinal punch Lettuce and tomato mayonnaise Indian pudding Pie Strawberries Ice cream Cake Nuts and raisins Cheese and crackers Coffee Cost for 200 people : Radishes - - $ 2.00 Trout - - - 2.10 Capon - - - 27.00 Beef - - - 14.00 Lamb - - • 8.60 Lobster ■ - - 5.00 Spaghetti - - 44 Peas . - - - 2.60 And for Wednesday I should give: Consomme Julienne Cream of barley Celery Olives Broiled pompano Saratoga potatoes Corned beef and cabbage Roast beef Turkey Sweetbreads Lobster croquettes Mashed and boiled potatoes New asparagus Turnips String beans Orange ice Vegetable salad Pudding Pie Wine jelly Ice cream Cake Fruit Nuts and raisins Cheese and crackers Coffee Cost for 200 people : Celery Pompano Corned beef and c Beef Turkey Sweetbreads Asparagus $ 5-25 12.00 450 14.00 16, 50 5- 64 6.00 $41.34 THE PRACllCAL HOIEL STEWARD, 29 In comparing the figures it will be readily seen the pression on the bill without first ascertaining the summary of each bill has greatly changed, and, be- meaning and how to spell it correctly, sides, the first bill has lost less in quality then what USE AND ABUSE OF THE WORD MENU the second one gained. I do not believe in the use of the word "Menu" FRENCH NOT WANTED ON AMERICAN BILLS on a" everyday American dinner bill. It is too much OF FARE. like affectation. The name of the meal on the bills I do not believe in the use of French in making is simple and more pleasing to the average hotel bills of fare; it should be confined to the fewest patron, as Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner or Break- words. French is not wanted, least of all in country fast, Dinner and Supper or Tea. On holiday or spec- hotels, and not needed in the city houses. It will iai bills for dinner, I believe it is proper to use no be noticed that when the chef makes a dish with a heading at all, especially where artistic folders are French name it has but little call, and often when used and the proper announcement is made on the it is called for by some guests out of curiosity, they outer cover, which is quite sufficient. The word taste of it, and then if they like it, good: but often "Menu" is proper in making a banquet bill: no it is a waste, simply because they do not understand other word would answer so well for that purpose. T'"', , .,„ .. • • BREAKFAST. In looking over my collection of bills of fare, it is easily seen that the greatest progress has been made ARRANGEMEN F OF THE BREAKFAST BILL, in dispensing with French. Some first class houses When clam broth is served for breakfast, in my in the East have bills without any French, and there judgment it should be the first item on the bill. My is no reason why they cannot be set forth entirely reason for this is that clam broth has a stimulating in the English language, as well as other nations can effect, especially when the stomach is feverish. It make theirs in their tongue. Up to the time of the is an excellent restorative. late Franco Prussian war it (the French) on the Then comes fruit. In nearly all American hotels German bill of fare seemed indispensible, French it is served, and in every one the guest looks for it. being the court language. After the formation of I do not believe in enumerating the d'fferent kinds; the Empire one of the reformations the old Emperor simply the word "fruit" or "fruit in season" — ex- made was to banish the use of French at the court, cept when the berry season begins when the differ- Now all meals are ordered from a bill of fare printed ent kinds should be named, as strawberries. oranges, in the language of the land. etc. My reason for prefering the generic term is BILL OF FARE HEADINGS. that one is not obliged to have a full supply of the I do not believe in the use of headings for the different kinds in stock. Should apples and grapes different courses on an American plan bill of fare, run short oranges and bananas fill the bill. They are proper on restaurant or a la Carte bills. Next, the guest usually looks for a cereal of some where a large variety is offered for sale. Large kind: therefore I would place the oatmeal or headings over the different classes of dishes enable cracked wheat or whatever kind there is to offer, the patron to find more quickly what he wants; but The third dish on the bill is fish, fresh and salt, where the condensed table d'hote bill is in use the accompanied with what fresh relishes there are. items are so few that they are easily found. Then to enumerate about five different kinds of STOCK RELISHES OUT OF PLACE ON meat, which should differ in variety as much as THE CARD. possible. One day they could be broiled sirloin The placing of such relishes as chow chow, pickles, and tenderloin steak, ham, liver and bacon, fried sauces, mustard, etc., on the bill of fare is out of mush, stewed kidney and fried chicken. The next date. Every well conducted house has them subject day broiled tenderloin steak, mutton chops, fried to the call of the gue?t. sausage, ham, hominy, stewed chicken, etc. A METHOD OF BILL OF FARE M.AKING. limited number of dishes makes it easy to have an My method of making a bill of fare is, I believe, entirely different bill every day in the week, entirely in harmony with present advanced ideas. After this comes the potatoes; then breads and It is of the condensed form using as little French rolls of different kinds, griddle cakes and preserves; as possible. I think that few dishes, well selected then beverages, and well prepared, give the best satisfaction. NO WASTE IN PREP.^RING. USE NO AMBIGUOUS WORDS. In high-priced city hotels it is not good to limit I believe it improper for a steward to use an ex- the dishes to so small a number as above given: a go THE PRACTICAL greater variety is necessary; end as a great part of this meal is prepared as ordered, waste need not be necessarily greater than where a small variety is offered. BREAKFAST GOOD AT ANY HOUR. Where the proper attention is given Breakfast should be as good at eleven o'clock as at seven in the morning, as nothing 'ought to be prepared to last through the entire meal. The following specimens will give a fair idea of breakfasts are served in different hotels: SPECIMEN BREAKFAST BILLS OF FARE. Hotel Florence, Pullman, III: Fruit in season Stewed prunes Baked apples Oatmeal with cream Salt mackerel BROILED Sirloin steak Sugar cured ham Mutton chops Tenderloin steak, plain or with tomato sauce ENTREES Calf's liver and bacon Corned beef hash HOTEL STEWARD, for writing in what extra dishes or changes there may be. The Merchants, Omaha: Fruit Oatmeal Broiled whitefish Tenderloin steak Mutton chops Fried oysters Spareribs Sausage Eggs — as ordered French fried, baked, hashed in cream Hot rolls Toast Buckwheat cakes Maple syrup Coffee Tea Chocolate This breakfast is a bill of choice dishes, well ar ranged, but the pruning process overdone. The Hyde Park, Chicago: Oranges Clam broth Oatmeal with cream Broiled live lobster Smoked whitefish Sirloin steak Filet of venison Calf's brains. Belvedere Ham Bacon Fried chicken, cream sauce Eggs as ordered Potatoes — Baked French fried Lyonnaise Vienna rolls Muffins Toast Griddle cakes, maple syrup Boiled Fried Shirred Scrambled ^^^^^ ^^a Chocolate Omelet os ordered This is well selected. Will do for holiday occa- sions. Baked Fried _, „. .^^ , „. , , . t>r>T.'AT-vo T-T-r- 1 he Chittenden, Columbus, Ohio: Oranges Apples Grapes Bananas Hot rolls Oysters — raw, stewed and fried Dry, French, buttered or milk toast Radishes (^al^gg Oatmeal and farina with cream Tea Coffee Milk Cocoa Broiled white fish a la maitre d'hotel Fried smelts, sauce tartare Saratoga potatoes Hotel Orleans, Spirit Lake, Iowa: Fried spring chicken, cream sauce Fruit in season Mutton or lamb chops plain or a la Creole Rolled oats Boiled rice Sirloin or tenderloin steak with mushrooms Ham Broiled pig's feet, Menehould ....... ;■.■■■■■ .; .■ ■, , Calf's liver and bacon Broiled or fried bass, pike or pickerel ir i .1 ^ u j „ , , . ... , 1 1 ■ -^i, • Veal cutlets crumbed, sauce tomato Tenderloin or sirloin steak, plain or with onions t-v 1 i_ n i . ^ ,,, ,. , , Pork chops, sauce Robert Calf s liver and bacon „ „ -1 J L Country sausage Broiled ham tt i. . / • _^ , , , Hamburg steak, sauce piquante Stewed chicken „^ j 1 1 i. • it „ , , , , , Stewed honeycomb tripe a la Lyonnaise Corned beef hash „^ j 1 -j j _ . , , Stewed kidneys au madere t ried mush ,-^ 1 1 • 1 „ ,^ , . Calves brains au beurre noir Codhsh in cream n . ^ • c- . •„*„ ■, J Potatoes in cream Sautee potatoes Eggs as ordered Baked potatoes Lyonnaise potatoes French fried potatoes Fried mush Corned beef hash Codfish cakes „ , , „ , , „ /■/■■j V V" EGGS— Poached Scrambled Boiled Shirred Potatoes; Baked French fried Stewed tr ■ j 1 d i • i „ i^ A/i^^^^K^or Fried a la Buckingham a la Meyerbeer Breakfast rolls Muffins OMELETTES— Plain or with parsley, cheese, ham, Milk, cream and dry toast onions, kidneys Griddle cakes French rolls Coffee cake Pop overs Corn bread Coffee Chocolate Tea Wheat cakes German toast Corn cakes „, , , . I , Ml f u 1 f . J Peach preserves Comb honey New maple syrup The above are two stock bills for breakfast, used ^^^^ ^^^ Chocolate Cocoa Broma in places where no printer is nigh, or it does not This is a specimen of overcrowding A third less justify to have them printed. The blank lines are would make equally as good a bill. THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 31 The Albany. Denver: Tangerines Apple glace Sliced bananas with cream Water cress Clam bouillon Rolled oats with cream Eggs to order Easter omelet with preserves Mountain trout, butler sauce BROILED English mutton chops Quail on toast Tenderloin steak with mushrooms Fried oysters New potatoes in cream French fried and baked potatoes German popovers Milk biscuits French rolls Toast to order Griddle cakes Hot waffles Comb honey Maple syrup Cocoa Tea Coffee This, an Easter breakfast, is a first class bill, ex- cept the repetition of the words "with cream" w-hich should be avoided ; also I believe waffles are best for supper. The Arlington, Hot Springs: Fruit of the season Stewed prunes Young onions Radishes Hominy Cracked wheat Clam broth Salt mackerel Smoked herring Bluefish Lake trout Sirloin or tenderloin steak, plain or with onions Mutton chops Liver and bacon Ham Frog legs, breaded, tartare sauce Corned beef hash Broiled or fried tripe Fried mush Stewed chicken, a la creme EGGS— Boiled Poached Shirred Fried Scrambled Omelet, plain or with parsley, ham, cheese or jelly POTATOES-Baked, Saute. Chips, Hashed in cream French rolls Vienna rolls Corn muffins Graham rolls Toast Rice muffins Griddle cakes Corn cakes Coffee Tea Chocolate Buttermilk This is an excellent bill for a high class resort, where good prices are received. The Bates, Indianapolis: Apples Malaga grapes Oranges Radishes Clam broth Cracked wheat or boiled rice Eggs to order Omelet, with asparagus tips Broiled brook trout, Montpelier butter BROILED Tenderloin steak, with mushrooms Lamb kidneys with bacon Quail, with water cress Sausage Fried oysters POTATOES— Baked French fried Stewed in cream Vienna rolls Toast Corn bread Cream biscuits Buckwheat griddle cakes Preserved strawberries Coffee Tea Cocoa This is a model which commends itself. Hotel del Prado, Chicago: Cantaloupe Oatmeal Sliced cucumbers Broiled trout Salt mackerel Broiled tenderloin or sirloin steak Fried spring chicken, cream sauce Ham Bacon Boston baked beans, brown bread Eggs as ordered Omelets plain or with ham POTATOES-Baked Stewed in cream French fried Wheat cakes Parker house rolls Corn muffins Tea Coffee This breakfast was served family hotel. A good bill. Horn rolls Chocolate a medium-priced The Phillips, Dayton, O: Strawberries Rolled oats with cream Sliced tomatoes Young onions Radishes Cucumbers Fried pike Broiled tenderloin or sirloin steak Breakfast bacon Beefsteak with onions Broiled sugar-cured ham Fried softshell crabs, tartare sauce Eggs and omelets as ordered Potatoes French fried Hot rolls Blackberry butter Wheat cakes Tea Chocolate Coffee This is an excellent breakfast served at a $2.00 per day commercial hotel. The Southern, St. Louis: Bananas Oranges Apples Oolong, English breakfast or green tea Coffee Milk Cocoa Chocolate Raw oysters Fried oysters Oat meal Breakfast food Broiled pickerel Finnan haddie Broiled white fish Sirloin or tenderloin steak, plain, with onions, or with mushrooms Mutton chops Ham Bacon Lamb kidneys Quail Corned beef hash Codfish balls Orange fritters Sausage Baked beans and pork Eggs — Boiled Fried Poached Plain or Spanish omelette Potatoes — Baked, hashed browned. French fried, hashed in cream Buckwheat, wheat or corn cakes French rolls or flutes Bread — Home-made, Boston brown, rye or graham Muffins — corn, egg or graham Dry or buttered toast Waffles The Read House, Chattanooga, Tenn: California oranges Baked apples Oatmeal or boiled rice with cream Broiled white shad trout, steward sauce Codfish in cream Salt mackerel, boiled or broiled Radishes Calf's liver and bacon Broiled sugar cured ham Broiled mutton chops Eggs to order 3a THE PRACTICAL HOIKL SI i: WARD. Omelettes with tomatoes, ham or cheese Broiled sirloin or tenderloin steak, plain or with mushrooms Hamburger steak with fried onions Calf brains scrambled with eggs POTATOES — baked, Lj'onnaise, stewed in cream French rolls Graham and rye bread Biscuits Oatmeal flakes Corn muffins Graham wafers Buckwheat cakes Hot waffles Cherry preserves Comb honey Maple syrup New Orleans molasses Cjcoa Coffee Tea Potatoes — Lyonnaise, fried and saute Hot rolls Corn bread Dry, buttered, milk and dipped toast Griddle cakes The Randall, Fort Wayne, Ind. : Baked apples with cream Fruit Canteloupe Cracked wheat Rolled oats Fried oysters Fried fish Cod fish balls Broiled sirloin steak, plain or tomato sauce Chocolate half's liver with English bacon Country sausage Broiled ham Lamb chops Corned beef hash Fried mush Sliced tomatoes Ham, jelly or oyster omelette Eggs to order Potatoes — Boiled, French fried or stewed in cream French rolls Toast Corn bread Rice or wheat griddle cakes Maple syrup Honey Coffee Chocolate The six specimens above are all models and commendable. The Maxwell. House, Nashville, Tenii: Raspberries Preserved cherries Stewed prunes Coffee Tea Chocolate Grits Rolled oats Broiled black bass Salt mackerel Broiled — Sirloin or tenderloin steak Spring chicken Calf's liver Fried corn Veal cutlet, breaded Tripe in batter Corned beef hash, browned Eggs — Boiled, fried, scrambled, poached or shirred Omelets — plain, with cheese, ham, jelly, parsley or Spanish Potatoes— Boiled, French fried, Saratoga, Lyonnaise dinner. It is not meant to be a full substantial meal, stewed in cream Bacon Mush LUNCH. Lunch is a slight repast between breakfast and Breads, etc. — French, Vienna, graham, rye, corn Muffins — Corn, flannel Syrup — Maple Rock candy drip The Montana, Anaconda, Mont: Clam broth Radishes Cantelopes Oatmeal or cornmeal mush with cream Fried mountain trout Salt mackerel Sirloin or tenderloin steak, plain or a la carte Ham Veal cutlets Lamb chops Bacon Oysters in any style Fricassee of spring chicken Boston baked pork and beans, with brown bread Broiled snipe on toast Eggs as ordered POTATOES:— Baked Saute Stewed Fried sweets Plain, Vienna or graham bread French rolls Toast Currant buns Wheat cakes, maple syrup Coffee Tea Chocolate but simply to appease the appetite which would re- sult in faintness where the time between the regular meals is too far apart. This is especially so in the large cities, where occupation takes people too far away from their homes to enable them to return for Sliced tomatoes a midday meal without losing a great deal of time- They take their breakfast at home and a light lunch in some restaurant near at hand, returning home in the evening to a substantial dinner to which they can take their time. Family hotels serve a lunch at midday because the men are all away and the women and children do not care for substantials at that time of the day. It has always been the custom in the most fashion- able Eastern hotels so to do, also along the Pacific t^' _ slope among all classes of hotels and restaurants; Corn muffins ^ ° it is only of recent years that the custom is being adopted in the Middle and Southern states. Lunch is the most economical meal of the house. It seldom contains more than two and often not more than one hot dish, the balance consisting of cold meats from previous days, some salads and Hotel Tray more, Atlantic City, JV. /. : Fruit Coffee Chocolate Hyson, Oolong and English breakfast tea . , , , , . , ^ - ,, >-. , J , ^ TT ■ /^ t 1 pastry. In arrangmg I would begin about as follows Cracked wheat Hominy Oat meal v°-^'-^y & & » Fresh fish Salt mackerel Broiled sirloin and tenderloin steaks Lamb chops Calf's liver Breakfast bacon Frizzled beef Veal cutlet, plain or breaded Stewed kidney Eggs — Shirred, poached, scrambled Omelets Ham one soup or a stew of oysters or clams; next, tw-o fresh relishes, such as radishes, young onions, etc., (fish is not essential excepting on Fridays, it comes next on the bill); after this about two kinds of hot dishes — a veal cutlet or a boiled fowl and a cro- quette; then about three kinds of hot vegetables, including potatoes; then cold meats; then salads. THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD After this a sherbet, pastry, and last comes the Lakota, Chicago: beverages. The following specimen luncheon bills of fare are all good. There is some diflference in their arrange- ment but any of them are commendable: 33 Eastman, Hot Springs: Puree of cauliflower au croutons Olives Radishes Spiced onions Baked whitefish, tomato sauce Potatoes au gratin Roast tenderloin of beef, Jardiniere Mashed potatoes Potatoes boiled Stewed tomatoes Boiled rice Rabbit pot pie Banana fritters, glace Hot brown bread COLD— Roast beef Turkey Sugar cured ham Pig's feet Pickled lamb's tongue r^^ Dried chipped beef Vegetable salad Peach pie Custard pie Home made doughnuts Lunch cake Pineapple sherbet Preserved strawberries Cranberry sauce OYSTERS — Stewed Blue points Croute au pot Consomme vermicelli Fried scallops, ravigot sauce Hashed browned potatoes Radishes Stuffed mangoes Olives Broiled tenderloin steak, Bordelaise Braised turkey wings, a la Parisienne Baked macaroni with cheese Boiled potatoes Stewed tomatoes New beets Boiled rice COLD Lamb Chicken Ham Roast beef Pig's feet Dried beef Sardines Pickled lamb's tongue Beef tongue Salads Macedoine Potato Cold slaw Baked cup custard Peach pie Assorted cake Preserved figs canned cherries Sherbet d'Ananas Bananas Chocolate Coffee Crackers Brunswick, Boston : Cheese Oysters Consomme Fried Crackers American cheese English breakfast and Oolong tea Coffee Buttermilk Denison, Indianapolis : Consomme, in cups Radishes Sardines Sliced tomatoes Brook trout, a la Vatel Potatoes, brabanconne Boiled pickled tongue, sauce piquante Stewed tomatoes Roast sirloin of beef Mashed potatoes Asparagus Compote of domestic duck, with mushrooms Cream fritters, wine sauce COLD — Roast lamb Bologna sausage Boiled ham Potato salad Chicken salad Compressed corned beef Edam and American cheese Cranberry pie Pineapple sorbet Assorted cakes Fruit Coffee Oriental, Dallas: Fresh okra with chicken Hot rolls Cucumbers Pickles Radishes Gulf trout, a la Portugaise Fried sweet potatoes Hamburger steak, sauce piquante Chicken livers with mushrooms Roast pork, apple sauce Boiled potatoes Stewed tomatoes Boiled rice COLD — Roast* beef Corned beef Beef tongue Boned turkey Ham Tapioca custard pudding Apricot pie Ginger bread Assorted cake Frozen egg nogg Watermelons Preserved fruits American cheese Crackers Honey Buttermilk Coffee Broiled Pickled Stewed clams Fried clams Oat meal Cracked wheat COLD Roast beef Ham Corned beef Chicken Lamb Turkey Beef tongue Sardines Chipped beef Boned capon Pickled lamb's tongues SALAD Shrimp Chicken Lobster Lettuce DESSERT Ice cream Assorted cake Pies Water ice Fruit Crackers Cheese Coffee, cocoa, tea Arlington, Hot Springs: Hors d'oeuvres, assortis, club style Mulligatawny Young onions Olives Sweet mixed pickles Fresh shrimp, a la Newburg Ham with eggs, country style Neal cutlets, saute, a la Jardiniere Minced turkey, a la creme Mashed potatoes Browned sweet potatoes Rice Beets Stewed new turnips Fresh string beans Boston brown bread COLD— Ham Chipped beef Pigs feet Corned beef Tongue Roast beef Kippered herring Marinierte herring Chicken salad Lettuce Salad, a la Russe Pate de foie gras Congress pudding, brandy sauce Mashed potatoes Cocoanut wafers Assorted cakes Banana sherbet Pineapple in syrup American or Edam cheese Tea Buttermilk Chocolate Crackers Coffee A modest luncheon: Oyster Celery Olives Roast beef Baked pork and beans Browned potatoes Brown bread Lobster salad 34 Cold tongue Apple pie Ice cream Cake THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. Cold roast pork Cocoanut pudding Fruit Coffee Gingerbread Consomme, hot or cold Lettuce Lexington, Chicago: Vegetable, country style Olives Spanish onions Minced chicken, Romaine Haricot of mutton, Parisienne Baked pork and beans Leg of veal with dressing Mashed potatoes Browned potatoes stewed Green peas Steamed rice COLD MEATS Roast beef Ham Corned beef Turkey Beef tongue Boneless pig's feet SALADS Potato Lobster Mayonnaise Cold slaw Wheat muffins Corn cakes Banana pudding, a la Conde Pine apple cream pie Apple pie Chocolate ice cream Fruit Assorted cake Home made preserves New comb honey Brie. Swiss and English cheese Saratoga flakes Michigan butters Bent's crackers English breakfast, green and Oolong tea Chocolate Cocoa Coffee Milk Burnet, Cincinnati: Blue points Consomme, en Tasse Broiled whitefish, steward sauce Sliced tomatoes Julienne potatoes Radishes Prime roast beef, demi glace Mashed potatoes Boiled potatoes String beans Pork chops, breaded, tomato sauce Deviled crab, in shell, baked COLD Roast beef Turkey Ham Swiss cheese Tongue Sardines Mayonnaise of lobster Cranberry pie Lemon custard pie Assorted cakes Fruit Layer raisins Crakers Cocoa Buttermilk Orange water ice Mixed nuts Cheese Coffee Tea Louisville Hotel: Consomme Oil-, es Sliced onions Stuffed perch, a I'Anglaise Dressed cucumbers Potatoes, a la St. James Green turtle steak. Reform club styls Chicken livers, saute a la Turinoise Roast saddle of mutton, Rosemary sauce COLD Roast beef Sardines Kippered herring Lettuce Chicken salad Potatoes Spaghetti Stewed tomatoes String beans Peach pie Angel food Pineapple salad California cherries Edam and American cheese Coffee Tea Milk Chocolate Hollenden , Cleveland: Rockaways Boston brown bread Olives Sliced tomatoes Young onions Radishes Tomato soup Plain lobster Sardines Baked beans with pork Baked potatoes String beans Pickled beets and red cabbage Ham Corned beef Cold roast beef Tongue Chicken salad Plain and dressed lettuce Custard souffle, peach sauce Apple pie Jelly roll Assorted cake Preserved crabapples Grape sherbet Crackers Cheese Tea Coffee Bananas Oranges Apples The Colorado, Glenwood Springs: Cream of ssparagus Sweet pickles Radishes Broiled whitefish maitre d'hoicl Small brown potatoes Roast spring lamb Sugar corn New potatoes in cream Stewed veal with dumpling Chicken livers saute, native mushrooms Orange sherbet Cold roast beef Ham Tongue 'I'urkey Pig s feet St rmg bean salad Rolls Ginger bread Plain rice pudding, wine sauce Assorted cake Blackberry jam Cheese Crackers Tea Iced tea Coffee Milk The Grand, Mackinack: Mulligatawny Tomatoes Celery Olives Baked fillets of trout, fine herbs Saratoga potatoes Boiled fowl and pork, celery sauce Boiled potatoes Green peas Mashed potatoes Stewed tomatoes Boiled rice Asparagus Welsh rarebit Banana fritters, wine cream sauce Hot brown bread Ginger bread Combination salad Pickled beets Spiced salmon Pigs feet Sardines Pickled lamb tongues Cold roast beef Lamb Pork and beans Sugar cured ham Pork Tongue Huckleberry roly pol\- Pineapple sherbet Assorted cake California apricots in syrup Currant jelly Oeam cheese Crackers Figs Dates Tea Coffee DINNER. There is considerable difference of opinion in re- gard to the placing of the joints and entrees on the bill of fare, some claiming that the French method of placing the entrees before the roasts is the proper way, supporting their claim with good arguments; but the majority, I believe, favor the American way of placing the roasts above the entrees, giving equal good reasons in support of their side of the argument, and I should almost feel inclined to say that the steward might suit himself, since neither way has ever been declared wrong on the American bill by THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD good aulliorit\ But I prt'fer tlie placing of the roasts before the entrees. It is the adopted American style and is mostlj' in favor in hotels all over the country. Fur- thermore. I do not see how a sweet entree — which is quite popular in many hotels — can be placed above the roast consistently ; but it has been done. I be- lieve it wrong. Sweets should come after meat dishes. It seems to me where the French style of placing the entree before the roast is customary, there should be no sweet entree, and, if they are desired, should follow the roast as "entremet" or dainties and classed with all kinds of fritters and daintil>' prepared vegetables, as stuffed tomatoes, etc. 35 Chocolate ice cream 25 Assorted cake 20 CHEESE AND CRACKERS Roquefort cheese 25 American cheese 15 Swiss cheese 20 TEA, COFFEE. ETC. Coffee, with cream 10 Tea, with cream 15 Milk, per glass 10 Iced tea 10 Iced coffee to Corkage i 00 Bensdorp's Royal Dutch cocoa 15 Hotel Pfi'itei\ Milwaukee: Blue points 25 SOUP Puree of celery, with crusts 50-30 Consomme with spaghetti 40-25 Green turtle, with sherry 50-^0 Tomato with crusts 40-2^ HORS DOEUVRES Celery 25 Spanish olives 15 Sardines 25 There are two styles of meats the "a la carte" and Chili sauce 15 Caviare 25 Radishes 15 Chow chow 15 Mixed pickles 15 Chutney 15 Lyon sausage 25 FISH Fresh mushrooms on toast 75 Lobster Newburg, in chafing dish i 00 Frogs legs fried, tartare sauce 75-50 Boiled fresh codfish, oyster sauce 50-30 dishes are cooked to order. The following speci- ^i^^,,^ ^ass 50-30 Whitefish 50-30 Lake trout 50-30 men bills of fare will give an idea of a la carte Salmon 50-30 Codfish 50-30 Halibut steak 50-30 "table d'hote." The a la carte is where every article on the bill has a fixed price, as in restaurants and nearly all other establishments which are not Ameri- can plan hotels. They usually contain a large variety for the patron to select from and a majority of the meals : Administration Restaurant, World' s Fair Grounds: SOUP Consomme with sago 30 Puree of tomato with rice 30 FISH Broiled bluefish, aiix fines herbes 60 Baked trout, wine sauce 60 BOILED Ox tongue, sauce piquant 60 ROASTS Prime beef, au jus 75 Spring chicken stuffed, giblet sauce 75 ENTREES Beef, a la mode 60 Fricassee of veal, French peas 60 VEGETABLES Potatoes, boiled or mashed, no charge Boiled onions 20 Curtice Bros, green peas 15 French peas 25 Boiled rice 20 String beans 15 New potatoes in cream 20 Asparagus on toast 30 COLD Roast beef 75 Boiled tongue 50 Corned beef 50 Anchovies 45 Boiled ham 50 Chicken salad 60 Potato salad 30 Sardines 50 Shrimp salad 60 RELISHES Sliced tomatoes 20 Sliced cucumbers 20 Crosse & Blackwell's pickles New pickled beets 10 Celery 25 Olives 20 J. & J. Coleman's English mustard DESSERT Cabinet pudding, vanilla cream sauce 20 Apple pie 10 Mince pie 10 Vanilla ice cream flavored with Burnett's Extracts exclusively 20 ENTREES Boiled fowl with pork, cream sauce 50-30 Veal sweetbreads braised. Jardiniere 80-50 Croquettes of chicken, Financiere 80-50 Banana fritters, brandy sauce 25 ROAST Roast spring lamb, mint sauce 60-40 Roast ribs of prime beef, pan gravy 50-30 GAME Partridge 1.25-75 Prairie chicken 1.25-75 Spring chicken 100-50 Snipes and quails 60 Plover 60 VEGETABLES Mashea or boiled potatoes 15 Baked sweet potatoes 25 Mashed turnips 25 Hot slaw 25 Asparagus 40 Green peas 25 Fried parsnips 25 SALADS Tomato 3c Lettuce 30 Cucumber 30 ENTREMETS SUCRES Home made American pudding 25 Cranberry pie 15 Fresh peach pie 15 Mixed cakes 25 Mille feuilles, a la orange 25 ICE CREAM Vanilla 25 Chocolate 25 Strawberry 25 Assorted 25 FRUITS Oranges 25 Bananas 20 Fi,i;s 25 Nuts and raisins 25 Dates 20 Piums 20 Cantaloupe 25 Pears 20 Apples 20 Peaches with cream 25 Grapes 25 CHEESE Hotel Pfister cheese 25 Roquefort 25 Gruyere 25 American 20 Edam 25 Camembert 25 Demi tasse 10 Cafe Turque 25 36 THE PRACTICAL HO 1 EL STEWARD. Carte du four, Hotel Grunewald, New Orleans: OYSTERS Oysters, half shell 40 " fried 40 " scalloped 50 PORTION Doz. Half 25 25 30 Whole Half Salad Grunewald 40 Anchovy salad 40 on toast 25 Caviar on toast 25 Sardines 40 Sausage de Lyon 25 PORTION Doz. Half Oysters, on toasted English muffins 30 50 Oysters, broiled on toast . .50 30 RELISHES 25 Sausage de Brunswig 25 25 Celery 35 15 Olives 25 15 Radishes 15 25 Sweet pickles 15 15 Mixed " 15 Chow-chow 15 Whole Half 15 20 15 PORTION Doz. Half Oysters, stewed 40 25 Ojster patties 60 35 Oysters on spit 50 30 Wnole Half Pickled onions 15 10 Pickled beets. . . 15 10 Mangoes 15 ic Cold slaw 15 10 Pickled walnuts 15 10 Chutney 15 10 Whole Half 30 25 Green turtle 50 " " clear 40 Mock turtle 35 Chicken gumbo 35 Puree of tomato 35 Oyster soup 40 25 SOUP Whole Half St. Germain 35 20 Crab gumbo 35 20 Consomme 25 15 en tasse 25 15 with egg 40 25 Royal 40 25 Whole Half Consomme, Julienne 35 20 Printaniere. . . .35 20 Vermicelli 35 20 a la Colbert .. .50 30 Onion soup 35 20 FISH Stewed terrapin, Maryland style $1.25 Whole Half Broiled pompano 75 40 " Spanish mackerel 75 40 " blue fish 60 35 " sea trout 60 35 Filet of sole with white wine sauce 65 Green trout 50 Croakers 50 Whole Half Stuffed crab 35 Lobster broiled 75 LOBSTER AND CRABS Whole Half I 00 Whole Half Whole Half Tenderloin trout, tartar sauce 60 30 35 Red ( Drawn butter. 60 35 30 , snapper < Courtbouillnn. 60 35 30 Sheeph'd ( Hollandaise. . .60 35 Salt mackerel 60 40 20 Frog legs 75 40 Lobster a la Newburg Whole Half Shrimp a la Creole 50 30 Shrimp, plain 50 30 Whole Half Eggs boiled 35 " fried 35 " shirred 35 " scrambled 35 " " with tomatoes 50 " " with bacon . . .50 " poached on toast . . .50 plain 35 " au beurre noir 35 Smoked beef with eggs . . .40 30 30 25 EGGS AND OMELETTES Whole Half 20 Ham and eggs 40 20 Bacon and eggs 40 20 Spanish omelette 50 20 Omelette, plain 40 30 " with onions. .. .50 fine herbs 50 tomatoes 50 ham 50 jelly 50 cheese . . .50 Whole Half 25 Omelette, with peas 50 30 25 " " oysters ... 75 40 30 " " mushrooms 75 40 25 " " rum 75 40 30 " " ch'ken Tver 80 45 30 " " truffles I 00 60 30 " " kidneys ... 50 30 3« " " asparagus . 90 50 30 " soufflee I 25 75 30 GAME Prairie chicken. Quail Plover Mallard duck. Black duck . . . Teal duck . . . . Papabotte. Squab Snipe STEAKS AND CHOPS TO ORDER Small sirloin steak one only) Sirloin steak " with peas . " olives. " onions " " mush's " Bernaise . . " Bordelaise . " with truffles Extra sirloin steak " with onions " " " peas . . " " " olives. " " Bordelaise . " '■ with mush's " " Bernaise .. . " " with truffles Whole Hs (for 50 60 60 60 75 75 75 I 00 I 00 I 00 I 30 I 30 I 30 I 5° Whole Half Tenderloin steak 90 30 " with peas i 00 " olives . . . r 00 " mush's . . I 30 " truffles . . I 50 Bernaise i 30 Chateaubriand i 50 with mushrooms. 2 00 " " truffles 2 25 Porterhouse steak, single.: 00 with mush's . i 25 Extra porterhouse i 50 with mush's. 2 00 Hamburg steak 40 " tartar 60 Lamb chops, plain 60 40 breaded.... 60 40 " " with peas. . . 75 50 Whole Half Lamb chops tomato s'c ... 75 40 soubise 90 60 English niLit'n chops each 40 Mutton chops, plain 60 40 breaded, . . 60 40 " toma- to sauce. . . 60 40 with peas. . 60 40 Veal cutlets, plain 50 30 breaded .... 60 35 tomato sauce 60 35 Veal chops, piain 50 30 breaded 60 35 tomato sauce 75 40 Milanaise .... 75 40 Pork chops 50 30 THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 37 Whole Half Broiled or fried ham 50 30 English bacon. .. . 50 30 Chicken broiled 75 40 a la Marengo....! 25 75 fried Maryl'd St. .1 25 75 " fricassee 90 60 patties 75 40 hash 65 35 " with egg 75 40 " croquette 75 40 " with peas. 85 45 " liver saute, plain. 65 35 " " " with mushrooms 80 45 " en Brochette 75 40 Whole Half Potatoes boiled 15 10 " French fried 15 10 " hashed brown... 15 10 julienne 15 10 maitre d'hotel...i5 10 Lyonnaise 15 10 Saratoga 15 10 croquettes 35 20 sautes 15 ID stewed 15 10 Parisian 15 10 broiled 15 10 hashed cream ...15 10 Whole Half Roast chicken 75 40 beef 50 30 veal 50 30 mutton 50 30 lamb 60 40 Pate de foie gras i 25 75 Sardines 50 30 Whole Half Salad, lobster 75 40 shrimp 60 35 chicken 75 40 asparagus 75 40 tomato 40 25 Whole Half Caprera 25 15 American 25 15 Camembert 25 15 Cold custard pudding. Pies Cup custard Assorted cakes Chocolate eclairs Wine jelly Tutti-frutti Whole Half Apples 25 15 Oranges 25 15 Bananas 25 15 Grapes 25 25 Whole Half Dry toast 15 10 Buttered toast 25 15 Milk toast 35 20 Cream toast 40 25 Coffee, per pot Pot coffee (for two). Demi tasse cafe Pot of cocoa MISCELLANEOUS TO ORDER Whole Half Frizzled beef with cream . 40 25 Mutton hash 50 30 " with egg 60 35 Lamb fries, tomato sauce. 65 35 •• tartar " 65 35 kidneys 50 30 Kidneys, stewed, plain. .. . 50 30 Cornbeef hash 40 25 Pork sausage 50 30 Kidneys, broiled 50 30 " stewed with mush's 75 40 " en Brochette ... . 50 30 Calf's head. Vinaigrette . . 60 35 "en tortue 75 40 " " a la Poulette. 75 40 VEGETABLES Whole Half Potatoes au gratin 25 15 Mushrooms, stewed 40 25 French peas 40 25 Green peas 25 15 Flageolets 40 25 String beans 25 15 Asparagus, oyster bay . . . .65 35 German asparagus, Lubec. 90 50 Cauliflower a la creme. .. .65 35 Boiled rice 15 10 Beets 15 JO Onions, fried 25 15 boiled 25 15 COLD DISHES Whole Half Club sandwich 65 35 Boiled ham 40 25 " tongue 40 25 Pickled " 40 25 Ham and beef sandwich. . 25 15 Chicken sandwich 40 25 Sardine " 40 25 SALADS Whole Half Salad, potato 25 15 Macedoine 75 40 celery 50 25 Spanish salad 35 20 Cucumbers. . . 50 25 CHEESE Whole Half Brie 35 20 Roquefort 35 20 Swiss 25 15 DESSERT Lemon ice 15 Meringue glace 20 Vanilla 15 Charlotte russe 20 Roman punch 20 Kirsch " 20 Lalla Roohk punch 20 FRUIT IN SEASON Whole Half Calif, canned pineapple. . .25 15 peaches. .. .35 20 " '■ plums 35 20 pears 35 20 BREAD AND CAKES Whole Half Bread and milk 25 15 Rice and milk 25 15 Jenny Lind cakes 25 t5 German pan " 25 15 COFFEE AND TEA Pot green tea " black tea ^ 25 " Oolong tea Whole Half Calf's brains, pl'n or fried 50 30 '• " brown but'r. 60 35 " liver, br'led or fried 40 25 with bacon... 50 30 " " onions . . 50 30 Sweetbread, au jus 7s 40 with tomato s'ce. 75 40 " peas 75 40 Jardiniere 75 40 financiere 75 40 au truffles i 25 75 Welsh rarebit 75 40 Golden buck 90 50 Scotch woodcock 90 50 Whole Half French string beans 50 30 Macaroni or spaghetti, pl'n. 35 20 with cheese. 35 20 au gratin.. 35 20 " a rital- ienne..35 20 Succotash 25 15 Corn, stewed 25 15 Lima beans 25 15 Tomatoes, stewed 25 15 Whole Half Cold turkey 60 35 Tongue sandwich 25 15 Swiss cheese sandwich .. . 25 15 Russian caviar 45 25 on toast 50 30 Anchovy toast 50 30 Whole Ha Water cress 25 15 Lettuce, plain 35 . 20 with mayonnaise. 40 25 " egg 35 20 Flageolet 90 45 Whole Half Gorganzola 25 15 Neufchatel 25 15 With Guava jelly extra. ..35 20 Grunewald " . Angel food Biscuit glace Pudding glace , Orange cream cake. Fig cake 25 Whole Half Calif, canned apricots. .. .35 15 cherries. . . .25 15 Baked apples 40 25 Stewed prunes 40 25 Whole Half Buckwheat cakes 25 15 Rice " 25 15 Corn " 25 15 Wheat " 25 15 Pot of chocolate Cream per glass. Milk Coffee to order.. 30 25 N. B. Half portions served to one person only. 38 THE PRACTICAL Table d'hote (according to the Standard Diction- ary), is a full meal for a price. This, I believe, is about the most proper definition of the word as applied in America, a meal practically selected by the caterer, from which the guest may choose what he desires, for a certain fixed price, as in all Amer- can plan hotels. The literal definition of the word is "The landlord's table; a common table for guests.'' There is a general impression that a table d'hote meal (menu) consists of a limited variety, the guest having the choice of only one (Hobson's) or two articles in each course. In my opinion, however, any bill of fare which is served at so much for the meal, whether breakfast, lunch, dinner or supper, is a table d'hote meal. In many places there is a notice at the foot of table d'hote bills of fare to the affect that any guest wishing a dish not on the card can obtain the same a la carte (or at restaurant prices). The following bills are fair specimens of regular American plan (table d'hote) dinners: The Hollenden, Cleveland: Blue points, on deep shell Salted almonds Mock turtle, au Madeira Chicken bouillon Fresh lobster, Maryland Sliced tomatoes Olives Radishes Cucumbers Fillet of pompano, vin blanche Potato croquettes Boiled capon, oyster sauce Spinach Asparagus tips Roast ribs of beef Boiled Bermuda potatoes Mashed potatoes Spring lamb, mint sauce New spring beets, butter sauce Baked sweet potatoes Sweetbreads glace, French peas Frog legs, fried tartar Orange fritters, Benedictine Champagne punch Broiled plover, on toast Sweet potato chips Chicken salad Charlotte, a la Hollenden Orange cream pie Almond macaroons Vanilla wafers Tutti frutti, glace Strawberries, with whipped cream Oranges Apples Bananas Bartlette pears American, Brie and Roquefort cheese Nuts Raisins Figs Coffee Dishes not on the Menu will be served a la carte — Waiters will supply checks. Auditorium, Chicago: Little neck clams Mock turtle, a I'Anglaise Clear okra with chicken Cold consomme in cups Soft shell crabs, sauce Ravigote Olives Radishes Sliced tomatoes Filet of Spanish mackerel, Bearnaise Sliced cucumbers Potatoes Hollandaise HOTEL STEWARD. Ribs of beef Stewed tomatoes Mashed potatoes Spring lamb, mint sauce New potatoes Cauliflower Sweetbread glace, Perigord Green peas Punch, a la Romaine Plover with English bread sauce Dressed lettuce Currant pie Raspberry short cake Vanilla ice cream Petits fours Raspberries with cream Peaches Watermelon Stilton and Brie cheese Cafe noir THE VEGETABLES. Vegetables should be grouped together and not be placed witn the different meat dishes, excepting where it is intended to serve the meal in courses, or for a banquet. The guest usually orders all such vegetables as he may desire at one time and where they are spread all over the bill it takes them too much time to find what they wish; or if they are not close students miss just what they would like, and are not aware that it is on the bill until they see their neighbor served with it. PUNCH. Punch is served in many hotels every day, and where once started it is like a bad habit, "hard to be broken and yet almost indispensable when the habit is once contracted." I doubt the commend- ability of this addition because of its injurious effect on the digestive organs. In placing it on the bill of fare it should be immediately above the game. In arranging a dinner bill I should begin about as follows: ARRANGEMENT OF THE DINNER BILL OF FARE. When oysters or clams, they should begin ; in their absence some relish (hors d'oeuvres). I — oysters or clams. 2 — I relish of some kind. 3 — 2 soups (i clear, i heavy). 4 — relishes. 5 — I fish with one kind of potatoes. 6 — I boiled dish, if desired. 7 — 2 roasts. g j 2 kinds of potatoes. ( 3 kinds of vegetables. 9 — 2 entrees. lo — I punch, if desired. II — I game. 12 — I or 2 salads. 13 — I pudding. 14 — I pie, cake. 15 — I ice cream, i jelly or charlotte russe, etc. 16 — fruit, nuts, raisins. THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. The Maxwell House, Nashville, Tenn: 39 17 — Cheese and crackers. 18 — black coffee (with cognac, if desired.) It is optional to place the cheese and crackers before or after the fruit, nuts and raisins, but as a great many epicures call for cheese and crackers with black coffee at the end of the nieai I believe the above arrangement proper and in the order in which the differen;; courses are usually called for. STRIVE FOR VARIETY IN THE BILL OF FARE. Another important item in making a bill of fare is that all dishes form a distinct variety, no two kind should be alike, for instance: Consomme with rics and cream of barley do not belong together — the rice and barley being both cereals, forms a similarity. Consomme jardiniere and cream of barley will form a better contrast. The same with roasts and en- trees. With roast turkey need not be chicken or any other kind of fowl in the entrees. Among the vegetables, lima beans and string beans or succotash ought not to be on the bill at the same time; also turnips and beets, or parsnips, or oyster Cream of capon, Richmond plant are too much alike. Attention should also be paid to sauces and ga-, nishes: they should not be all white or all yellowr nor brown. For instance: There is fish with tartar sauce; the sauce with the first entree can be brown and the second white or red. Nor does it look well to have tomato soup then sliced tomatoes, fish with tomato sauce and possibly stuffed tomatoes among the entrees on the bill at the same time, no matter how cheap they are. I would not have the same article more than once- on the bill if possible. Of course there are excee- tions in some instances. The following speicp men dinner bills of fare from different hotels are good models : The Southern, St. Louis: Blue points Celery Pigeon broth Mangoes Salted almonds Terrapin, Maryland style Brook trout, tartar sauce Sliced tomatoes Julienne potatoes Roast sirloin of beef Green peas Roast sweet potatoes Wild turkey stuffed, chestnut dressing German asparagus Supreme of prairie chicken, truffle sauce SOUTHERN HOTEL PUNCH Canvas back duck, currant jelly Game salad. Julienne English plum pudding, hard and brandy sauce Blue points Cream of partridge, a la Mt. Vernon Chicken clear, okra Queen olives Salted almonds Petits bouchees, Duchesse Broiled Spanish mackerel, maitre d 'hotel Potatoes a la Russe Boiled capon, sauce chipolate Asparagus Prime cut of beef Spring lamb mint sauce Mashed potatoes Carolina croquettes Green peas Stewed terrapin, Maryland style Baked apples, with rice conde LALI.A ROOKH PUNCH Roast quail, stuffed. Perigord Dressed lettuce Washington pudding, lemon saucf Sliced apple pie Pumpkin custard pie Fancy cakes Neapolitan ice cream Confections Nuts Fruits Figs American, Roquefort cheese Crackers Coffee Hotel Trulock, Pine Hhiff, Ark: Caviar on toast Consomme royale Lettuce Radishes Tomatoes Broiled ponipano a la Tantj' Potatoes duchesse Boiled reindeer tongue, chasseur Ribs of prime beef, demi glace Mashed browned potatoss Stuffed egg plant Roast spring chicken, dressing Candied yams Asparagus, Hollandaise Filet of beef, a ia Bernaise Sweetbreads braise financiere Baba au rum ANGELICA PUNCH Roast saddle of venison, Tyrolienne Celery salad Steamed fruit pudding, brandy sauce Lemon meringue pie Green apple pie Rhine wine jelly Delmonico ice cream Assorted cake Nuts Raisins Crackers Cheese Coffee Tutti-frutti ice cream De brie Toasted crackers Fruit Cider Coffee Read House. Chiitt^iuoo^a: Fish chowder Consomme, au riz B('iled ialmon, anchovy sauce Cucumbers Hollandaise potatoes Roast ribs of beef, dish gravy Boiled sweet potatoes Stewed oyster plant Roast young turkey, cranberry sauce Mashed potatoes Hubbard squash Roast veal, brown sauce Lima beans a la Veloute 'I'ennessee corn pone Buttermilk Boiled calf's head, vinaigrette Scalloped oysters Compote of pears, Richelieu Cocoanut pudding, lemon sauce Apple pie Pumpkin pie Rum jelly Assorted cake Vanilla ice cream Watermelon Apples Edam and American cheese Crackers Coffee 40 THE PRACTICAL HOIliL STEWARD. The Revere House, Chicago: Puree of green peas Bouillon Sliced tomatoes Young onions Broiled Spanish macKerel, anchovy butter Pommes Parisienne Beef tongue, tartar sauce Roast ribs of beef, demi glace Mashed potatoes Spinach with egg Domestic duck stuffed, currant jelly Stewed new tomatoes 'New succotash Sweetbreads glace a la financiere Fresh lobster a la Newburg Orange fritters, Curacao CARDINAL PUNCH Chicken salad Pineapple souffle with w hipped cream Peach pie Raspberry meringue pie Almond ice cream Assorted cake Fruits Nuts Raisins Watermelon Edam and American cheese Water cracker Coffee Netv Hyde, Ridguuay, Pa: Saddle rocks Consomme, Deslignac Olives Baked shad, Italienne Boiled tongue, tomato sauce Sirloin of beef, brown gravy Loin of veal, browned potatoes Turkey stuffed, cranberry sauce small patties of oysters, bechamel Chicken croquettes, peas Sweetbreads larded. Toulouse Rice with peaches, a la Conde PORT WINE SHERBET Lobster salad Mashed potatoes Fried parsnips French baked potatoes Stewed tomatoes Cold slaw Creamed onions English fruit pudding, hard and brandy sauce Apple pie Lemon meringue pie Mince pie Vanilla ice cream Baked apples, powdered sugar Fancy cakes Fruit Layer raisins Lemon jelly Coffee Leiand Hotel, Springfield: Bluepoints Celery Green turtle Russian caviar Olives Broiled Spanish mackerel, maitre d'hotel Duchesse potatoes Boiled beef tongue with spinach Roast ribs of beef Turkey, cranberry sauce Chicken pie. New England style Oyster pattie, a la Leiand Charlotte of apricots, sauce chartreuse ROCK PUNCH Roast quail, au cress Broiled teal duck Boned turkey, aspic jelly Fresh shrimp mayonnaise Asparagus tips Sweet potatoes Green peas Mashed potatoes String beans Mince pie Plum pudding, hard sauce Pumpkin pie Assorted cake Tutti frutti ice cream Fruit Hickory nuts and cider Roquefort, DeBrie and cream cheese Water crackers Coffee The Plankinton, Milwaukee: Tomato, a la Creole Consomme Sliced tomatoes Olives Sliced cucumbers Broiled whitefish, a la maitre d'hotel Saratoga chips Roast chicken, giblet sauce Cauliflower Green corn Roast sirloin of beef Mashed and boiled potatoes Roast saddle of lamb, currant jelly String beans Spinach Pigeon stuffed, a I'Anglaise Soft shell crabs fried, Bearnaise Pine apple fritters, rum sauce PUNCH AU KIRSCH Salads Lettuce Pickled beets Chicken Boned capon Pate of fat livers Raspberry roll, brandy sauce Custard pie Apple pie Assorted cake Wine jelly Charlotte russe Confectionary Ice cream royale Roquefort, Edam and American cheese Water crackers Nuts Fruit Buttermi Vt.: Reine Pepper relish Raisins Coffee Water melon The Avenue House, St. Johusbury, Blue points Puree of chicken a li Queen olives Boiled turbot, Estragon Windsor potatoes Cold slaw Dressed lettuce Pickled onions Boiled native turkey, sauce supreme Pressed calf's head Potted tongue Filet of beef, larded, financiere Chicken saute, Marengo Spanish puffs, glace au cognac Roast prime ribs of beef, dish gravy Loin of lamb, brown gravy Mallard duck, currant jelly Steamed and mashed potatoes Green peas Stewed tomatoes Shelled beans Spaghetti a I'ltalienne PUNCH ROMAINE Salmon salad Baked Indian pudding with whipped cream Sliced apple pie Raspberry tart pie Sherry wine jelly Golden cream Lemon ice cream Assorted cake Bon-bons Fruits Nuts Confectionary Raisins Graham and water crackers Sage and American cheese Coffee St. Cloud Hotel, Canon City, Colo.: Consomme a la Victoria Baked St. Lawrence river salmon, maitre d'hotel Queen olives Celery Sliced tomatoes Boiled capon, cream sauce Young turkey, oyster dressing, cranberry sauce Prime cuts of beef, Yorkshire pudding Fillet of beef aux Champignons Charlotte of peaches, sherry wine Baked sweet potatoes Sugar corn Mashed potatoes Cabinet pudding brandy sauce Apple pie Strawberries with cream Port wine sherbet Assorted cake THE PRACTICAL Nuts American cheese Wafers Figs Tea Ciiocolate Milk Coffee Hotel Carey, Wichita Kan. : Mock turtle Consomme Royal Filet of sole, sauce remoulade Serpentine potatoes Radishes Pickled beets Green onions Small bouchees, a la Montglas Boiled chicken, sauce supreme Prime ribs of beef, au jus Asparagus Mashed potatoes Spring lamb with mint sauce Sifted peas Spinach Boiled potatoes Calves head en tortue Fresh mushrooms, sautee on toast Hard shell fritters, glace au rum SORBKT A 1,'ANANAS Fresh lobster en Mayonnaise Apricot pie Orange meringue pie Boiled lemon pudding, sauce Sabayon Strawberry short cake Chocolate cream Almond ice crtam Assorted fancy cake Fruit Raisins Nuts Cream cheese Coffee Butter crackers Tke Trcinont. Oshkosh. Wis.: Clam chowder Consomme Radishes Lettuce Queen olives iioiled Lake Superior trout, parsley sauce Julian potatoes Boiled tongue, piquant sauce Prime roast beef with gravy Roast loin of veal with dressing Fricassee chicken with dumplings New boiled potatoes Mashed potatoes Green peas Hot slaw Stewed kidneys, wine sauce Farina cake with jelly Shrimp salad Apple pie Peach pie Rice pudding, hard sauce Orange sherbet Wine jelly Oranges Apples Bananas Assorted cake American cheese Assorted nuts Swiss cheese Tea Coffee Milk Bent's water crackers Boston brown bread Home made bread SUPPER. Supper, the evening meal, is served in nearly all country commercial houses and in a great many city houses as well. It should consist mainly of light foods, cereals of some kind, some stewed or fried oysters, when in season, or clams in some way; a fritter, some cold meats, breads, toast, waffles, fruit, sauces and beverages. But where dinner is served at midday in houses depending upon the traveling public, it is necessary that the supper be more sub- stantial, especially where a man has been traveling all day and is tired and hungry, something more than the above-named items is wanted. Even to the regular boarder the wait from noon to evening has been long enough to fit him for a substantial meal. HOTEL STEWARD. 41 I do not believe, however, that it is necessary to enumerate nearly all available meats in the market; four or five hot meat dishes and eggs ought to be quite sufficient. In my opinion fruits should never begin the supper; it seems out of place. "Fruit first in the morning and last at night" is the old saying, and I believe it a good rule. In arranging a supper I should make it about as follows : I — Stewed oysters or cold consomme. 2 — Some fresh relishes. 3 — Cereals. 4 — 2 fishes — a broiled and a fried. 5—1 or 2 broiled meats. 6 — I or 2 fried dishes. 7 — I or 2 made dishes. 8— Eggs. 9 — Potatoes. 10 — Cold meats and salads. II — Breads, toasts, etc. 12 — Fruits, cake. 13 — Beverages. The following specimen is a supper served at the Bates House, Indianapolis, and which I believe first class . Consomme in cups Cucumbers Sliced tomatoes Pickled beets Chowchow Cracked wheat or cerealine, with cream Eggs to order Omelets, plain or with jelly Baked lake salmon, Chevaliere Broiled tenderloin steak, plain or with piquant sauce Veal cutlets breaded, Milanaise Rissoles of chicken, Madeira sauce Baked, domestic fried and hashed brown potatoes String beans Saratoga chips COLD Roast beef Bologna sausage Roast fowl Pig's feet Boiled ham Ox tongues Lettuce Baked pork and beans Lobster salad Finger rolls Toast New England griddle cakes Tea buns Vienna, Graham and rye bread Boston brown bread Home made bread Maple syrup Rock candy drips Watermelon Red raspberries Blackberries Sherbet Assorted cake Coffee Iced tea Milk Tea The following specimens are commendable: Louisville Hotel, Louisville: Blue points Spanish onions Olives Salami FISH — Broiled trout, a la maitre d'hotel Saratoga chips BROILED — Sirloin or tenderloin steak Lamb chops with bacon Ham ENTREES — Venison steak, club style Stewed green turtle in cases 42 THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. Fried oysters, a la tartare Banana fritters, rum sauce Eggs and omelets as ordered COLD — Roast beef Ox tongue Ham Sardines Kippered herring Lettuce (-elery mayonnaise POTATOES— Saute or French fried Oat meal porridge with cream Griddle cakes with maple syrup Compote of peaches Preserved cherries Strawberry jam Coffee Milk Chocolate Oolong, Congo or Young Hyson tea Phillips House, Dayton, O.: Cracked wheat Olives Celery Mangoes Fried yellow perch Potatoes a la Reitz Tenderloin or sirloin steak Pork spare ribs Broiled or fried ham Steak with onions Baked potatoes Potatoes Chateau French toast Eggs as ordered Omelette Cold roast beef, ham and fowl Chicken salad Tea biscuits Jenny Lind pancakes Baked apples Assorted cake Tea Chocolate Coffee The Maxwell, Nashville, Tenn. : Consomme in cups Pickled Beets Olives Coffee Cocoa Tea Cracked wheat Tenderloin steak Kidneys Bacon Cold roast beef Tongue Ham Eggs and omelets as ordered Potato salad Cold slaw Potatoes — French fried, saute Finger rolls Flannel cakes Assorted cake Syrup — maple Rock candy drip Lemon cling peaches American cheese Crackers The Southern, St. Louis: Consomme Green gages Stewed prunes Oyster stew Broiled — Jack salmon Fried smelts Whitefish Sliced tomatoes Sirloin or tenderloin steak, plain, vvith onions, or drip gravy Mutton chops Ham Bacon Tripe Chicken hash on toast Calf's feet, fried in batter Eggs — Boiled Fried Shirred Plain or kidney omelette Cold — Roast beef Ham Marined herring Turkey Smoked tongue Veal Salad a la Russe Dressed lettuce Potatoes — Baked German fried ' French fried Saratoga chips Bread Toast Rolls Oat meal and Indian meal, vvith cream Corn or wheat cakes Assorted cakes Ginger bread Oolong, English breakfast and green tea Baked apples Chocolate Coffee Milk Cameron House, La Crosse, Wis. : Bouillon en tasse Salted wafers Broiled sardines on toast Sliced cucumbers Sliced tomatoes Filet of turkey, sliced oranges Baked potatoes Cold — Tongue Salmon Ham Boned chicken en aspic jelly Russian punch Fresh lobster salad en mayonnaise Red raspberry shortcake Hot waffles with pure maple syrup Plain and rye bread Tea biscuit Toast to order Assorted cake Crackers Edam cheese Coffe Tea Iced tea The Randall, Evansville, Ind. : Shell oysters Celery Mangoes Fried smelts Hominy grits Apple tapioca BROILED Tenderloin steak Sirloin steak Plain or with onions Tripe Pig's feet Chicken croquettes, with green peas Calf's head in omelette Veal cutlets, plain or breaded Pearl paste, with jelly POTATOES Baked Shoestring Old fashioned fried Potato cakes Smearkase Eggs to order COLD Roast beef Lunch tongue Baked beans Toast — all wa)s Current buns French horns Corn or buckwheat cakes Honey Maple syrup French sherbet Quince preserves Cup custard Assorted cake Tea Coffee The Grand, Indianapolis: Bluepoints Sliced tomatoes Pickled peaches Radishes Consomme Oyster stew Cracked wheat or farina mush with cream Broiled bluefish, Ipmon butter Saratoga chips Broiled tenderloin or sirloin steak, plain or with French peas Veal cutlets, tomato sauce Minions of beef, financiere Welsh rare-bit au gratin Eggs as ordered Caviar omelets Baked, French fried and hashed brown potatoes String beans with bacon Cold — Boiled ham Roast beef Lamb's tongue Fowl Marinated herring Sardines Chicken salad Graham, rye or Boston brown bread Crown rolls Rusks Egg muffins Toast Wheat or buckwheat griddle cakes Flemish waffles Lemon cling peaches Preserved peaches Assorted cake Stewed rhubarb Sherbet Coffee Tea Cocoa THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 43 Planters Hotel, St. Louis: OYSTERS Blue points 25 Shrewsburys 40 Cape Cods on deep shell 40 SPECIALTIES IN OYSTERS Stewed in milk 25 Fancy roast 40 plain 25 in cream 40 Fried 30 0>ster patties 30-50 Broiled, celery sauce 50 Escalloped au gratin 40 En brochette 50 Steamed in shell 60 LITTLE NECK CLAMS On shell 25 Stewed 30 Fried 35 Steamed 50 A la Nantalse 60 Bouillon en tasse 20 Clam broth en tasse 25 Chicken gumbo passe en tasse 35 Celery 30 Caviar 25-40 Olives 20 Anchovies. 30-5© SPECIAL SELECTIONS T-errapin a la Maryland i 00-2 00 Terrapin a la Manhattan i 00-2 00 Lobster a la Newburg 60-1 00 Lobster cold, sauce tartar 50-90 Bordelaise 601 00 broiled 50-90 stuffed a la Chevreuse 45-80 Oyster crab patties 40-75 Hard siieil crabs deviled, sauce tartar 40-75 Ooquettes of crab meat 35-6o croquettes, Cardinal 40-75 a la Diable 50-90 Oyster crabs fried 60-1 00 a la Maryland 80-1 50 Crab meat a la Lorenzo 3S-6o Shad roe au beurre noir 40"75 Broiled sardines on toast 35-60 Chicken croquettes with peas 4075 Sweetbread cutlets " 4075 Deviled lamb kidneys 40-75 Chicken or turkey sandwich 20 Welsh rarebit 40 Golden buck 50 Scotch woodcock 40 Club sandwich 25 Sandwiches 15 GAME Mallard duck 60-1 00 Golden plover 60 Red head duck 1501 Quail Partridge English pheasant 2 00 Teal duck 60 Canvasback duck 2 50 Antelope steak 60-1 00 Squab 60 Prairie chicken COLD MEATS Roast beef 35-60 Chicken 40-75 Lamb 40-75 Boned game 50-90 Boned turkey 50-90 Beef tongue 35-6o Boneless pig's feet, Vinaigrette 35-60 Turkey 40-75 Ham 3560 Pate de fois gras 60-1 00 Pickled lambs' tongues 30-50 SALADS Chicken 40 75 Potato salad 25 Lobster 40-75 Shrimp 40-75 A la Russe 40-75 Tomato mayonnaise 40 Celery " 30 Cucumbers 30 Lettuce 30 Chicoree 30 Asparagus 40 German asparagus 60-x 00 The Burnett, Logansport. Ind. : Beef bouillon Water cress Lettuce Caviar Corn meal mush Baked salmon, butter sauce Baked giblet pie, Maryland Breaded veal cutlets, cream sauce Corn fritters, rum sauce Broiled — Tenderloin steak Sirloin steak Lamb chops Kidneys with bacon Eggs, as ordered Cold — Roast beef Mutton Ox tongue Chipped beef Sardines Summer sausage Salmon salad Potatoes — Steamed Domestic fried Shoestring Hot rolls Assorted cake Brown bread Ice cream Cherries in syrup Sliced bananas Comb honey Griddle cakes, with maple syrup Club house coffee Cocoa Tea Palace Hotel, Cincinnati: Consomme Wheat flakes or rolled oats with cream Fish — Broiled lake fish Fried catfish steak Cold Meats — Ox tongue Ham Roast beef Lamb Bologna Veal Sliced tomatoes Potato salad Chow chow Broiled — Sirloin or tenderloin steak, plain or with fresh mushroom sauce Bacon Pork chops Ham Dried beef in cream Lamb tongue, au Risoto Fried hominy Eggs, to order Omelettes plain with ham or tomatoes Potatoes — baked hashed brown Saratoga Breads — Hot biscuits Boston buns Ginger bread Graham bread Rye bread Wheat cakes Toast to order Corn cakes Rock candy drips Honey Assorted cake Soda wafereties Graham wafers Fruit — Baked apples Apricots Coffee Tea Chocolate Butter milk 44 THE PRACTICAL HOI EL STEWARD. Burnet Hou:e. Cincinnati: Little neck clams Consomme in cups Cracked wheat Mush and milk Broiled lake trout, maitre d'hotel Radishes Cucumbers Prime roast beef, au jus California grass birds, on toast German fritter, with stewed prunes Boiled rice Baked tomatoes Broiled sirloin oi tenderloin steak, plain or Creole Mutton chops, plain or breaded, with peas Welsh rabbit, or golden buck POTATOES— Baked Hashed in cream Lyonnaise Fried sweet French fried Eggs to order Omelette, plain, with ham or cheese COLD — Ox tongue Ham Lamb Corned beef Pork and beans Sardines Pickled herring Mayonnaise of chicken Rye and graham bread French rolls Tea biscuit Wheat cakes Corn cakes Ginger snaps Assorted cake Stewed pears Coffee ice cream Sliced peaches, with cream Pineapple preserves Tea Coffee Chocolate Cocoa Buttermilk TEA. Is a light evening meal — lighter than the regulation supper — and usually consisting of Tea, coffee or chocolate Dry, milk or cream toast Tea biscuits — wafers Cold meats, or sandwiches Salads Breads, cakes and conserves Tea is generally served on Sundays and holidays, when a specially appetizing midday dinner having been partaken of, a light meal is all that is necessary- It makes it convenient, also, to relieve a number of the help after dinner. BUFFET LUNCHEONS. The meaning of the word Buffet is a sideboard. As applied in connection with the above it is one or more large tables, upon which everything that is on the menu (which is intended merely as sou'-enier) is placed on the table before the arrival of the guests. There are no chairs, everybody stands and each one either helps himself or is served by the waiter, with what he chooses on a small plate with fork. They are always informal affairs and are much enjoyed by the participants. The following menus will illustrate: Grilled sardines Anchovy toast Mardadella sausage Celery Olives farcie Radishes Ham, goose breast, chicken and Swiss cheese sandwiches Lobster salad Lettuce salad Potato salad Salmon Mayonnaise Pate de foie gras Eggs a la bonne femme Punch curacoa Chaud froid de cailles Galantine de dinde Assorted cakes Tutti frutti ice cream Fruit Edam cheese Crackers Coffee Luncheon given to The Hotel Men s Mutual Benefit Association, by Detroit Hotel Men s Association at the Old Club, St. Clair Flats. Michigan. May ir, i8g2: Ham and chicken sandwiches Cold turkey Beef tongue Chipped beef Stuffed eggs, a la St. James Chicken salad Potato salad Lobster salad Queen olives Sweet pickles Radishes Punch Oriental Strawberries and sweet cream Neapolitan ice cream Assorted cakes Fruits American cheese Swiss cheese Crackers Tea Coffee Soothers for the Troubled Spirits of Ye Landlords, Ye Ladies, and the Strangers within Our Gates. To the H. M. M. B. A. at the Copley Square Hotel, Boston: CHAUD Bouillon de lucines, en tasse Croquettes de grenouilles, Parisienne Ris de veau, Coquillot FROID Saumon, decoree Galantine dechapon. d'Orleans Pigeonneaux en bastion, Semonier Jambon, gatti Langue de boeuf, Rocheford Aspic de homard Mayonnaise de volaitle Salade epicurienne Sandwich assortis ENTREMETS SUCRES Fruits glace de saison Charlottes, aux noisettes Petits fours Cafe noir G. H. Mumm's extra dry Copley Square punch Poland Spring water Cigars A cold luncheon served at the opening of the new Hotel Burlington, at Boscombe, Bournemouth, England: Swanage prawns Filet de sole en aspic Mayonnaise de Homard a la Burlington Saumon a la Christchurch Saumon a la Montpelier Pain de Volaille a la Mosaique Chaud-froid de Cailles Chaud-froid de Cotelettes d'Agneau Galantine de Poulard aux truffes Chapon a la Bechamel Boeuf braise a la Gelee Poulet Roti Grouse Roti Langue de boeuf Jambon de York Quartier d'Agneau Pates de Gibier Sandwiches ENTREMETS THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 45 Trifle Petits babas aux Cerises Nougats a la Cliantilly Meringues a la creme Patisseries variees Gelee au Vin Gelee a la Macedoiric de fruit Mousse aux (raises Charlotte a la Russe Gateau a la Napolitaine GLACES Vanille Citron Ananas DESSERT CARTE DE VIN Sherry Champagne, 1884 Claret, 1886 Champagne cup Claret cup Lemonade Johannis natural mineral water To the H. M. M. B. A. at the Waldorf, New York, May i^lh, fSgj: CHAUU Gombaut Passe en Tasse Croquette Panachee a la Waldorf Ris-de-Veau a la Surdez Souffle au Fromage Brissotin de Volaille Fantaisie FROID Consomme en Gelee Crabes a la Diable Pigeonneau de Philadelphie Timbale de pate de foie gras Mayonnaise de volaille Salad de homard Sandwich de Crabes Mous Sandwich assortis ENTREMETS SUCRES Glaces fruits varies Biscuit Bellevue Petits fours The glace Cafe frappe A buffet luncheon served January ig, iSgj, at the Chicago Athletic Club, from 7 P. M. to 12 P. M. : Bouillon in cups Celery Pickles Olives Oyster patties, Romaine Sandwiches Ham Tongue Turkey Sardine Cold meats Salads Turkey Ham Shrimp Potato Lamb tongue Chicken PIECES MONTEES Pate of game a la Diana Dindonneau Ham decore a la Gatti Galantine de Cochon de Lait en daube Boned turkey a la Berger Frozen cream sherbet Assorted cake Cheese and toasted crackers Cafe Buffet lunch served at the Union League Club, Brook- lyn, N. Y. The occasion being the ladies' annual reception : SERVICE CHAUD Consomme en tasse Clam broth Bouchees aux champignons frais Homard a la Columbus Croquettes de ris de veau a la Princesse Cafe Chocolate SERVICE FROID Celery Olives Saumon a I'avelane Filet de boeuf a la Russe Jambon truffe a la florian Langues de boeuf Rocheford Ballotines de poulets en chaudfroid Timbales de foie-gras en bellevue Galantines de dinde a la Elizabeth Pates de perdreaux a la U. L. C. Mayonnaise de volaille Salade de homard Rillettes Sandwiches assortis Entremets de douceur Paniers de nougat garnis de fruits Charlottes fontanges Gelees Moscovite Glace histone Sorbet fin de siecle Petits fours Bon bons Mottoes Fruit Champagne These luncheons afford skilled cooks an oppor- tunity to show their ability, as everything is set on the table in large dishes, ornamented. BANQUETS. A banquet is a repast or a rich entertainment given in honor of some memorable event or celebra- tion, usually attended with formality, all participants attending in proper dress for the occasion. During the meai the guests are entertained with music, afterwards suitable toasts, speeches, etc., which complete the feast. The menu consits of a full hot meal, like a table d'hote dinner, served in courses, usually accom- panied with wines. In some instances the price of the repast for each plate includes the wine, music and flowers ; in others the wine and flowers without the music, but in the majority of cases the caterer serves the meal only, for a price, and receives extra pay for wines, flowers and music. Sometimes the host provides his own flowers and music. Banquets are served in two different styles. The French service (a la Francaise) and the Russian ser- vice (a la Russe). The French service is not popular. Occasionally small parties not to exceed ten or twelve are served in this manner. Artistic chefs prefer it as it gives them an opportunity to show their skill to better advantage, everything being served on large (usually) decorated dishes in the most attractive manner, each dish containing as many orders as there are guests to be served by one waiter, who passes the dish around to the guests, helping them to their por- tion. The time required to serve a banquet in this style is necessarily slow and it requires thoroughly trained waiters to avoid any mishaps. Waiters in this country who understand this service are not plentiful, which may account for the French service being less in demand. 46 THE PRACTICAL HOI EL STEWARD. The Russian service is the most satisfactory; it is Many a cook in a country hotel can not be beaten simpler and much quicker. All meats, pastry and for plain and palatable cooking, but he is not well dessert are prepared in single portions nicely gar- posted on fancy dishes. Where such is the case nished and ready for the guest to eat. It is different only such dishes which he is familiar with should from the French style, as in this case the cooks and be placed on the menu, and no others. waiters do all the work for the guests; they are Locality and season often have a great deal to do •served with just about the size order desired and with the cost of a banquet, one may be served with in a much more appetizing way than if they were profit in one section at two dollars while money obliged to help themselves. would be lost at three dollars in another section for Where there is a well conducted kitchen and pro- the same banquet, perly drilled waiters the various courses are set The price of labor, rent and the products of the before the guest almost within' a minute of the time land are all factors to be considered, that they are taken from the range or pantry. To Last, when fine china, cut glass, silvers, etc., are serve the hot dishes steaming hot, and cold dishes to be used, the risk of breakage in tlie use of them with a fresh and cool appearance is a very import- must also be considered. ant feature. The steward should always know within a few The steward's generalship comes to good use in dollars how much it will cost the house to serve a the serving of parties; on him really depends the banquet after the menu is decided upon, success of the affair. If he is a man who becomes When a banquet is to be served the headwaiter rattled he is in danger of confusing everybody else, should be notified in time, that he may have the It devolves on him to see that every course, from room put in order and the tables arranged to suit oysters to coffee, are served in regular order, and the occasion, and that the waiters best suited for to keep harmony among the help during the service, the work are selected and given an extra drilling. He should see before the time comes that every- allowing one waiter to five, six or eight guests, ac- thing needed is on hand and ready. cording to the quality of service required. They The steward can avoid a good deal of confusion should be properly dressed "black full dress suit, by announcing what course to be served (to the ones white tie and no jewelry displayed. Where only who are to dish up) just at the right moment; it girls are available they should wear a plain white sometimes corrects an error in time. dress, neatly done with white linen collars and cuffs In preparing and estimating on the price of a ban- — no lace or frills of any kind should be allowed, quet the following should be taken into considera A table set with linens of fine texture, perfectly tion. laundried, cut glass, silver and fine decorated china The number of covers. needs but few ferns, smilax and flowers to look rich The class of people. and beautiful. The floral decorations are usually The skill of the cooks at the caterer's command. attended to by a florist, who makes a study of such ' ^' work; but in his absence it devolves upon the stew- ard to see that it is done properly. The setting of The quality of the table ware to be used on the the table depends on what there is to work with, occasion. T ., c .L 1 XL ... r r J- r u The best appearance possible should be made with In the first place the cost of feeding of a number ^*^ ^ ofpeoplereducescorrespondingly as the number of ^^hat there is on hand. The table should not be guests increases, therefore, when a banquet for overcrowded with dishes and stands which are of twenty-five covers is ordered the material used no service. should be less expensive than if one-hundred are to There should be no announcements or advertise- be fed at the same price. And when a banquet is ^^^^^ ^f ^^y ^-^^^ ^^ jj^g ^gnu such as appertaining intended for men who are accustomed to work in , i-i. r » i j r <• j * to quality of water, brands of food, etc. fresh air, such as the Brotherhood of Locomotive , . , ,,,.,,, For ideas in setting a banquet table, I will take Engineers, for instance, the repast should consist of , . , , , r , for illustration an article on this subject printed in food of a more substantial nature than if the same . f , ... ..I 1 ». the Hotel Monthly of September 1894, which at- is for a bar or press association, as the latter are ^ ^^ usually men leading sedentary lives, have a more tracted much favorable comment at the time, the delicate appetite, and their food should be more men who contributed the ideas being all well known daintily prepared. in the catering world. THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 47 IDEAS IN SETTING A BANQUET TABLE. A Pictorial Expression of the Art of Banquet Catering by Several Gentlemen Prominent in tlie Hotel, Restaurant and Club W or Id. The editor conceived the idea of securing the opinions of a number of gentlemen prominent in the hotel, restaurant and club world as to how a banquet table should be laid — the best disposition of the silver, china, glassware, etc., around each plate before the guest takes his seat. » * Our plan was to give a (suppositious) banquet — the regulation banquet. Covers for twelve. Three kinds of wine to be served, and one waiter to every four guests. The question put was substantially as follows: "In laying the table for this banquet what in your opinion is the best disposition of the silver, china and glassware, the bread, butter, salt, pepper, relishes, napkin, etc. , etc ; also the quantity and kind of knives, forks, spoons, glasses, etc., that should be placed around the plate before the guesc takes his seat, and should oysters be on the table?" In our interviews with the gentlemen called upon we caught some of them in their "busy" hours, and so, consequently, the sketch of "how they would have it," which is presented on the pictured table accompanying this article, (see plate four) and which illustrates their different ideas, might be revised somewhat. Many of the sketches were made upon the instant and in a crude manner, but nevertheless they each and all of them command respectful consideration. "a" in large diagram indicates centerpieces. GEO. FULWELL. Geo. Fulwell, steward The Bates. Indianapolij. [Mr. Fulwell, in the drawing accompanying his let- ter, has arranged a table for twelve persons — six ladies and six gentlemen- Banquet given by a gen- tleman. Host sits at end of table. A setting from this table is also shown on the large illustration pre- seniing twelve different arrangements.] MENU. Little neck clams MONTRACHET, 1878 Anchovies Radishes Cucumbers Salted almonds Celery Consomme. Rachel Fillets of Pompano, Venitienne Olives Potatoes Farcies, Regente Braised sweetbreads, Pique, Montglas French peas in cases CHATEAU LAFITE, 1869 ORANGE ICE Roast young grouse, currant jelly Tomato and lettuce salad MOET & CHANDON, WHITE SEAL Charlotte Russe Strawberry ice cream in forms Assorted cake Stilton cheese Fruit Coffee The menu and diagram of decorations for the table I send you are for a moderate priced banquet. The prevailing style now is to decorate the table with flowers, smilax. plants, ferns, fruit, etc. The elabo- raiepieccs montees. that the chefs took da3s and weeks to prepare and were so much admired by the guests are now out of fashion and seldom seen on a banquet table. So otlier artists have been lirought into play, who have artistic taste for arranging bouquets and pyramids of flowers, displaying fern leaves in beauti- ful designs and building pyramids of various kinds of fruits, and systematically placing the hors d'oeu- vre dishes so that they will do their part in beauti- fying the dinner tabic Attention should be given to the temperature of the dining room, which should be about 65 to 70 degrees. The table should be at least KEY TO Mr. FULLWELL'S TABLE. 1 Br°ad 2 Napkin 3 K'sli fork and entree fork 4 Butter knife, entree knife and soup spoon 5 Oyster fork ti Salt and pepper 7 Butter 8 Bone dish 9 Bouquet 10 Menu card 11 Burgundy glass 12 Claret glass 18 Champagne glass 14 Water glass 1,'> Hors d'oeuvre IB Uadisbes 17 Olives 18 Anchovies rj Salted almonds 20 Celery 48 THE PRACTICAL HOI EL STEWARD. ten feet long by four feet wide to give the guests plenty of room. The napery should be snow white and folded true in the laundry; that is, the crease in the table cloth should be exactly in the centre and the napkins ironed straight, so that the waiters can fold them true. Fancy folds are now out of fashion. The glassware should be cut and engraved, a com- plete set including the water glass. I will now explain as clearly as possible how I would proceed with the service of your banquet. A headwaiter and three waiters would be necessary. For the headwaiter I would select the largest and finest looking man in the dining room. The three waiters would be picked out all of even size; (if colored men all of the same shade of color.) Their dress would be black cloth, swallow tailed coats, white low cut vests, turn down collars; white string ties, tied in a bow, (except the headwaiter who would wear black); white linen gloves and no jewelry ex- posed, or handkerchief. There is as much system in serving a banquet as there is running a rail-road or in any other business The most satisfactory way to serve a banquet is the Russian style; that is, to have all the joints, etc., carved in the kitchen and the individual portion ar ranged on the plates for each cover. As you will notice, I prefaced the dinner with little neck clams; this I would serve on soup plates filled with shaved ice, with dinner plate underneath, White Burgundy would be served with this course. Care should be taken to have the wine at the right temperature. It is not considered good form to fill the glasses more than three parts full. The hors d'oeuvres are placed on the table and passed to each guest between the ^u^' O"" anything distinct from the regular meals, first four courses. Now comes the soup, which would such as when an announcement of the occasion is the cheese and nibbling the crackers, the waiters would prepare the finger bowls, filling them half full of luke warm water, slightly perfumed with a slice of lemon in each bowl. Stand bowl in small plate with napkin underneath. It is now time to remove the cheese plates and give to each guest a dessert plate and finger bowl, before handing around the fruit. The dessert course over with, the black coffee will be served in small cups. That ends the dinner. On account of ladies being present no cognac or cigars will be passed. THE MENU. The word menu in French means something small (as of small in size or dimensions). Menu d' un repas means a bill of fare. The words "d'un repas" are unnecessary, from the fact that the repast is announced on the card, which sufficiently explains it. Technically the word "menu" means any kind of a bill of fare and can be used vhere the French ex- pression is preferred to the English as Breakfast menu. Luncheon menu. Supper menu, etc. But the word as adopted in the English is popularly under- stood to mean a limited, choicely selected meal, as for a table d'hote dinner, a banquet, etc. The word "menu" is most appropriate for a ban- be served in the regular soup plate with dinner plate underneath. Never remove any of the plates while some of the guests are still eating. This course is removed by the fish, which is ac- companied by dressed cucumbers in a separate dish and placed in front of the hors d'oeuvre plate, which remains on the table during the first four courses. After this course, sweetbreads would be served, com plimented with Chateau Lafite Next course would be the ice, served in an orange with the inside scooped out, placed on a cold plate with fancy fringed doily. While the guests are en- joying the ice the Burgundy and claret glasses would be removed whether empty or full. Now comes the game, "the piece de resistence," which is accom- panied by currant jelly and salad. The currant jelly is passed to each guest by the waiter in a glass dish. The salad plate occupies the position on the table held by the hors d'oeuvre plate, which was taken away with the Burgundy and claret glasses. A relay of silver would be placed on the table for this course. The champagne, which is served with this cover, must be as cold as possible without freez- ing. Don't put ice in the wine, it ruins its flavor. When this course is finished all side dishes, plates silverware, cruets, in fact everything but the fruit, flowers, water and champagne would be removed from the table, and table brushed off with a crumb brush, before placing dessert spoons and fruit knives at each cover. The Charlotte Russe like the ice cream would be served on cold plates with fancy lace paper underneath. Baskets of assorted cakes would be handed with the ice cream. This course finished, the cheese with toasted hard crackers would be pas- sed to each guest. While the guests were tasting made on the card as "Sixth Annual Banquet of the Hamilton Club," "The Sixteenth Annual Dinner of the H. M. M. B. A.," "Farewell Luncheon in nonor of James Blank by his Friends," etc. On regular bills of the day it should be "Table D'Hote Dinner at the Auditorium" or "Dinner at Kinsley's" or "Breakfast The Southern Hotel." An announcement something in the nature of the above should' always be made to distinguish the repast from those given at the other intervals of the day, which the term "menu" fails to do. The arrangement of the menu is like a table d'hote dinner excepting that the entrees are usually placed above the roast (French fashion,) and some approp- riate vegetable accompanying the meat dishes about as follows : I course — oysters or clams. ,, _ ( soup. ] relishes (hors d'oeuvres). 3 " — I fish with I fancy potato. 4 " — I entree dainty such as pattie of terrapin etc. 5 " — I roast or heavy entree such as sweet- breads or cutlets, chops, etc. 6 " — I punch (sorbet). 7 " — I game or broiled young fowl, etc. 8 " — I salad, dressed lettuce etc. 9 " — dessert, lo " — coffee. \ THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 49 Or a cheaper one as follows: shell of butter. To serve an extra plate under the I course— I hors doeuvres (relish). one containing the food saves the linens from soil- ( I soup. . J.J,., r ,. — 1 ^ relishes '"^ ^ adds to the appearance of the service. — I fish with fancy potato. The men serving the wine (about one to every — I entree. twenty guests) should not be the regular table wait- — I punch (sorbet). ^^^ When removing the wines they should pour — I game roast. , .„,„ J the residue of the glasses in pitchers which can be dessert. saved and for which there is a possible use. If the — coffee. help is permitted to empty the glasses as they go to The following specimen menus are arranged in the pantry there may be disagreeable results, which accordance with the foregoing, the first represent- it may take several days to overcome. ing a high class banquet such as would be given at The following specimens of banquet and luncheon a hotel men's convention; the second is cheaper, menus include a number of annual banquets given consisting of one less course, the material Jis' less by the Hotel Men's Mutual Benefit Association. I expensive and the wines are of a cheaper grade. do not submit these latter as models (though the Menu No 1 majority of them are), but as an interesting feature „, . , to many old hotel men who had the pleasure to Bluepoints sTEiNBERGER CABINET partake of them. They are served at $5 per cover Clear green turtle including wines. ROYAL RESERVE _, . ... ^, . „ ,, ,^. „. The other menus will appear on thsir merits as Small patties, Financiere Stuffed olives Salted nuts models of well arranged specimens. Planked shad [^In an article on wines which will appear later, Cucumbers Saratoga chips , , . , j , • ,. .. RARSAr 8 8 the subject of serving and placing them on the menu Diamond back terrapin, Maryland will be discussed.] Lamb chops, Princesse T^zW/ banquet of the Hotel Men's Mutual Benefit Asso- Green peas ciation of the United States and Canada at the Tremont CHATEAU LAFITE 1874 House, Chicago, January 20. 1880: BENEDICTINE PUNCH gluC pointS On Shell Broiled Philadelphia squab sauterne, compliments of John A. Rice Asparagus Hollandaise Green turtle soup Chicken a la Royal Dressed lettuce Celery salad Small patties a la Financiere L. ROEDERER BRUT Broiled whitefish with small potatoes Neapolitan ice cream Assorted cake claret, compliments of Alvin Hubbert Strawberries pile^ ^j ^eef, larded, with mushrooms Roquefort cheese Crackers Asparagus Potatoes a la Suisse ^""^ ^ COGNAC Calf's sweetbreads, pique with French peas Mpnu No 2 Cutlets of partridge, truffle sauce CHAMPAGNE, compHments of Scott & Rice Caviar on toast Roman punch Consomme Princesse Saddle of Venison, Marinee larded a la Brioche VINO DE PASTO Baked mashed potatoes Green peas Stuffed olives Salted nuts Tomatoes champagne, compliments Chicago members Broiled Spanish mackerel, steward sauce Roast quail on toast, jelly Potatoes Duchess Saratoga potatoes HAUT SAUTERNE Boned turkey Chicken salad Pate of liver Sweetbread patties, Financiere Assorted cake Neapolitan ice cream Green peas pontet CANET Charlotte Russe KIRSCHWASSER PUNCH Roquefort cheese Edam cheese Broiled spring chicken on toast Fruit Coffee Cigars Lettuce POMMERY AND GRENO SEC ^- ^' ^' ^' ^' ^^'^1^'^^ ^^ ^^^ Metropolitan Hotel, Ice cream in forms ^^ ^'"''^' J^»"ary 19, 1881: Cake Fruit Huitres chablis Brie cheese Crackers Tortue Verte a I'Anglaise Coffee LIQUEURS POTAGES Amontillado In serving oysters or clams I would place them on ^^^"^^ ^^ "'^'"i aux croutons souffles Varies Varies shaved ice in a small deep plate. Never put ice jjoRS DOEUVRES over them, it spoils the flavor. All relishes such as Petits Bouchees a la puree Faisan olives, salted nuts, sliced tomatoes, celery, etc., aux truffe Perigord Bass rayee au gratin a la Chambord should be nicely arranged on the table just before poiSSON ruedesheimer the guests are seated; also rolls, bread and one Pommes de terre a la Duchesse so THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. RELEVE Filet de boeuf pique a la Godard Dressed lettuce Water cresses CHATEAU BOUILLAC DESSERT ROMANEE Poitrine de Dindonneau Farcie a I'lmperatrice Assorted cake Macaroons ENTREES CHAMPAGNE Champagne jelly Fruit ices Frozen pudding Croquettes de ris de veau aux champignons Galantine de poularde en Bellevue Pate de Strasbourg a la moderne FROID Voliere de Cailles a la forrestierre Salade de volaille a la Russe Mayonnaise de crevettes en aspic a la Ristoria SORBET A LA CARDINAL ROTI Selle de mouton a la gelee de groseille CHAMBERTIN Perdreau barde sur canape au cresson GIBIER Coeur de laitue Salade de celeri Petits pois a la Francaise ENTREMETS Asperges en branches Epinards au jus Haricots verts saute au beurre Charlotte Russe a la vanille decoree Gelee au champagne, petits fours LIQUEURS DIVERS SUCRES Glace Napolitaine en pyramide Pieces montees F'ruites et dessert Fromage Cafe Cigars H. M. M. B. A. banquet at the Burnet House, Cincin' tiati, January ij , 1882: Oysters on half shell Green turtle soup SHERRY Boiled Kennebec salmon Mashed potatoes. Burnet House fashion SAUTERNE Baked]sweetbreads with French peas CLARET Tenderloin of beef with mushrooms CHAMPAGNE Roast quail Baked mashed sweet potatoes Cold boiled lobster Shrimp salad Turkey salad Ice cream Assorted cake Fruits Cheese Crackers Coffee Cigars H. M. M. B. A. banquet at the Brunswick, Boston, May 8. i88j: Little neck clams HAUT SAUTERNE SOUP Cream of Asparagus AMONTILLADO FISH Baked Penobscot salmon, Genoese sauce Cucumbers Bermuda potatoes Sliced tomatoes REMOVES HOCKHEIMER Boiled Philadelphia capon, Estragon sauce Roast spring lamb, mint sauce Asparagus tips Rice String beans ENTREES CHAMPAGNE Tenderloin of beef, truffle sauce Sweetbread patties, Parisian style Chicken croquettes New peas MAYONNAISE pontet canet Lobster Chicken Shrimp ROMAN PUNCH GAME Broiled snipe on toast, Colbert sauce Apples Oranges Bananas Malaga grapes Strawberries Coffee H. M. M. B. A. banquet at the Lindell Hotel, St Louis, May ij, 1884: Little neck clams HAUTE SAUTERNE Consomme Colbert Timbale of fowl Cucumber salad Amontillado Columbia River salmon HoUandaise Potato croquettes Sweetbreads larded Green peas Asparagus PONTET CANET Broiled spring chickeni String beans Caulflower PUNCH imperial Roast snipe Dressed lettuce Water cress VEUVE CLIQUOT Charlotte Russe Champagne jelly Assorted cake Confectionery Tutti frutti ice cream Fruits Strawberries Bon bons Fromage de Brie Cognac Coffee Chartreuse H. M. M. B. A. banquet at the Grand Pacific Hotel, Chicago, May X2, 188^: Little neck clams Chicken bouillon CHATEAU YQUEM Cutlet of whitefish — larded — mushrooms New potatoes String beans mumm's extra dry Breast of spring chicken Asparagus Sweetbreads pique — green peas Rice croquettes — Claret sauce champagne sorbet Broiled snipe — dressed lettuce chateau la rose Fancy cakes Omelet soufflee Tutti frutti Confectionery Strawberries Fruit Coffee Roquefort H. M. M. B. A. banquet at the Metropolitan Hotel, New York, May 11, 1886: Little neck clams haute SAUTERNE Green turtle clear Cream of asparagus AMONTILLADO Small patties a la Renaissance Radishes Olives STEINBERGER Baked striped bass a la Chambord Cucumbers Potatoes Parisienne CHATEAU LA ROSE Filet of beef pique, Prince Carl Potatoes a ia Dauphine Capon stuffed a la Ambassadrice String beans Little neck clams HAUT SAUTERNE THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 51 Sweetbreads in cases, Lavalliere Charlotte Russe Green peas Fruit Squabs braise a la Rothschild liquors , . . ^ . . •.. „i J „„„c Roquefort and American cheese Spinach with poached eggs ' CHAMPAGNE KIRSH PUNCH ^ 1/ 1/ ^ ^ banquet at the Palmer House, Chicago, Saddle of spring lamb mint sauce ^.j^y j ^ jSSg: Asparagus Hoilandaise Little neck clams CHAMBKRTIN AMONTILLADO English snipe on toast water cress Consomme Royal Lettuce Small patties of chicken Charlotte Russe a la Chantilly Pompano LIQUORS Sliced cucumbers Curled potatoes chablis Assorted cake Mottoes Tenderloin of beef with truffles Ice cream in forms Jelly Macedoine pontet canet Dessert Divers Sweetbreads Fruit Cheese Coffee Green peas Cigars Siberian punch cigarettes H. M. M. B. A. banquet at VVillard's Hotel, Wash- Broiled plover on toast ittpton, D. C, May 10, 1887: Lettuce salad Saratoga chips moet & chandon (white seal) Assorted cake Bisque glace SOUP Green turtle Printaniere Royale Crackers ^ '"" Roquefort cheese AMONTILLADO ^^^^^ g^^^^^ FISH Potomac striped bass.JHollandaise sauce cigars Sliced tomatoes Potatoes Julienne Cucumbers ^- ■'^^- ''^- ^- '*^- f''""]"'^^ ''^ ^^"^ Hollenden, Cleveland, JOHANNISBERGER Ohio, May 12, l8gi : REMOVES Philadelphia capon, Estragon sauce sauterns Blue points Bermuda potatoes Asparagus Olives Celery Tendeiloin of beef, mushroom sauce Amontillado Consomme Macedoine German potatoes String beans Broiled whitefish chateau margaux Dressed cucumbers ENTREES Potted squab. Jardiniere pontet canet Sweetbreads pique, St. Cloud Broiled spring chicken Soft shell crabs, Maryland Curled potatoes French peas Lobster salad Shrimp salad cigarettes H. M. M. B. A. punch champagne JULES MUMM & CO.'S "GRAND SEC." maraschino punch Roast plover GAME Snipe on toast Colbert sauce Lettuce Fromage de brie Dressed lettuce Water cresses moet & chandon, "white seal" romanee Neapolitan ice cream DESSERT Frozen pudding Champagne jelly Macaroons Macaroons Tutti frutti Assorted cake Coffee Neapolitan ice cream liqueurs and cigars Oranges Malaga grapes Bananas ^ j^ j^j ^ ^ banqueT^he Russell House, Detroit, Strawberries with cream ^^^ ^^ ^g^^. Roquefort cheese Water crackers ' Little neck clams Coffee Caviar sandwiches cognac et liqueurs Cream of asparagus CIGARS AMONTILLADO ,, ., .^ „ , ', , , ,, „. Olives Radishes Salted almonds H. M. M. B. AJanquet at Monongahela House, Pitts. g^^„ ^^^^.^^^ ^^ chicken burgh. May 8, 1888: ^.^^^ ^^ ^3,^^^ ^^^^^ p^^^ Little neck clams haut sauterne SAUTERNE Dressed cucumbers Mock turtle Tenderloin of beef, with truffles Kennebec salmon a la Hoilandaise pontet canet RHINE WINE Potatoes Hoilandaise Stuffed tomatoes Potato croquettes Cucumber Olives ^''^^'^ mushrooms on toast Salpicon en Caisse Benedictine punch „.,, » r u f /-I cigarettes claret ^""^ Champignons ^^^^ ^ chandon Roast quail g. h. mumm's Green peas Baked mashed potatoes white seal Sliced potato chips extra dry Asparagus SORBET A LA MONONGAHELA Lettuce salad Chartreuse of strawberries Roast Jack snipe currant jelly Icecream . ^_^^ Assorted cake CHAMPAGNE Lettuce Roquefort '^"' Crackers Lobster Mayonnaise cigars cognac T utti frutti ice cream Coffee 52 THE PRACTICAL HOlEL STEWARD. H. M. M. B. A. banquet at the Burnet House, Cincin- nati, May 12, J8gj: Little neck clams Caviar sandwiches Clear green turtle soup AMONTILLADO Broiled Pompano, steward sauce Dressed cucumbers Potato croquettes Potpouri of chicken with truffles HAUTE SAUTERNE Larded sweetbreads braise French peas CHATEAU LA ROSE ROMAN PUNCH CIGARETTES Roast Philadelphia squab on toast Asparagus, Hollandaise sauce G. H. MUMM'S EXTRA DRY Tomatoes, mayonnaise dressing Tutti frutti Strawberries Assorted cake Roquefort Brie Crackers CIGARS Coffee COGNAC 1885 H. M. M. B. A. banquet at the Brown Palace, Denver, May 8, 18^4: Little neck clams HAUTE SAUTERNES Consomme Trianon Hors d'oeuvres Broiled mountain trout, maitre d'hotel Potatoes Laurette, cucumbers Sweetbreads en casseroles CHATEAU PONTET CANET Lamb chops, Maison Dore Stuffed green peppers PUNCH THERMIDOR Roast jack snipe Lettuce salad POMMERY SEC Nesselrode ice cream Assorted cakes Strawberries Cheese Coffee LIQUEURS CIGARS H. M. M. B. A. banquet at Delmonico s , New York, May 75, i8g^: Clams Consomme Plumerey Bisque of lobster Brissotins aux Supreme Striped bass, Joinville Cucumbers Saddle of lamb, Victoria Tomatoes stuffed with egg plant Breast of chicken, Lucuilus Peas Parisienne Asparagus, cream sauce SHERBET TREMIERE Squabs, water cress Lettuce salad Terrine of foie gras jelly Crust, pineapple Fancy ice cream Fruit Cakes Pyramids Coffee H. M. M. B. A. batiquet at Hotel del Coronado, San Diego, Cal., April 20, 'g6: Vermouth cocktails California oysters Clear green turtle, aux Champagne SUNNY SLOPE SHERRY Timbales of chicken, a la Talleyrand Salted almonds Celery Olives Barracouda, a la Hoteliere Potato croquettes Cucumbers CRESTA BLANCA, HAUTE SAUTERNES Larded tenderloin of beef, aux truffes Stuffed tomatoes a la Creole Sweetbreads in cases a la Conti , New peas CRESTA BLANCA, MARGAUX Asparagus a la Hollandaise Roasted squab, barde, with cresses G. H. MUMM's EXTRA DRY Mayonnaise of fresh shrimps Fancy forms ice cream Assorted cake Fruit Camembert cheese Coffee COGNAC H. M. M. B. A. banquet at the Vendome, Boston, June 8, '97: Little neck clams Clear green turtle Cream of fresh mushrooms Boiled fresh Penobscot salmon a la Victoria Broiled bluefish, sauce Bercy Sliced cucumbers New green peas Potatoes Sultane Spring lamb, Morlaisienne Supreme of chicken a la Toulouse Fresh asparagus Potato croquettes Braised sweetbreads, Berthier Soft shell crabs, Remoulade FROZEN TOM AND JERRY Golden plover sur canape Fresh vegetable salad Sweets Cheese Coffee The Lexington, Chicago: Huitres Salted almonds Consomme Printaniere, Colbert AMONTILLADO Celeri Olivps Farcie Poisson de Pompano, Remoulade LIEBFRAUMILCH Concombres Pommes Hollandaise Filet de Boeuf, Pique, Perigord Tomato a la Diable PONTET CANET 1874 PUNCH A L'AMBASSADEUR Timbale de Dinde, Ecossaise Asperges Allemande chambertin 1878 Poitrine de Perdreux, aux Truffes moet & chandon imperial brut Petits pois Gelee salade Biscuit glace a la Tosca Gateaux Assortis Fromage liqueurs Cafe The Westminster, New York City: Oysters on half shell AMONTILLADO Consomme Chatelaine HAUT SAUTERNES Baked lobster au gratin, a la creme Broiled mushrooms on toast, maitre d'hotel CHATEAU BELGRAVE Filet of beef larded with truffles New potatoes French string beans Asparagus THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 53 Punch Cardinal English snipe on toast PERKIER JOUET Lettuce salad Ice cream Cakes LIQUEURS Cafe A Fellowship Club Dinner at Kinsley' s Chicago: Blue points Cress Celery Cream of Terrapin Hors d'oeuvre varies Whitefish, au gratin HAUT SAUTERNES 1874 Mangoes Parisienne potatoes Filet of turkey with marrons CHATEAU LINAS Sweet potato Chateau CARDINAL PUNCH Breast of prairie chicken Fried hominy Olives farcies G. H. MUMM'S EXTRA DRY 1884 Asparagus Vinaigrette Glaces Cake COGNAC Cheese Coffee Crackers A dinner to Patti at the Auditorium, Chicago: Huitres GRAVES Consomme a la Caprivi Sheepshead a la Provencale Pommes Parisienne Filet Roti aux Champignons Spaghetti a I'ltalienne Pommes Dauphine PONTET CANET PUNCH ADELINA Chapon farci aux marrons Salade de Laitue RUINART BRUT Charlotte aux Pommes Glaces diplomate Fruits Gateaux Cafe Loyal Legion dinner at the Kirkivood, Des Moines: Consomme in cups Celery Radishes Oyster patties, sauce Poulette Fillet of beef with mushrooms Julienne potatoes Roast quail au Cresson Potato salad French peas Neapolitan ice cream Macaroons Kisses Select fruit Coffee Commercial Travelers banquet at the Palace, Cin- cinnati: Oysters on shell Cream of fowl Pompano, wine sauce Celery Hollandaise potatoes Patties of sweet breads French peas Fillet of beef, mushrooms Sweet potatoes Asparagus tops ROMAN PUNCH Roast Golden Plover Dressed lettuce Currant jelly Ice cream Cake Fruit Water crackers Cheese Coffee Cigars Trenton House, Trenton, N. J. : Little neck clams barsac Consomme Royale Planked shad viN DE pasto Cucumbers Potato balls Broiled spring chicken mumm's Bermuda potatoes New peas extra dry Fresh asparagus Roast English snipe Tomato salad Crackers and cheese Strawberries Vanilla and strawberry ice cream cordials Cakes Coffee cigars Kinsley s Chicago: Blue points Celery Clear green turtle Planked whitefish Parisienne potatoes Chicken croquettes French peas Fillet of beef, a la Cheron Baked tomatoes Browned potatoes FELLOWSHIP PUNCH Breast of prairie chicken au Madere Lettuce and chicoree Ice cream Cake Crackers Cheese Coffee Cigars Cognac The New York Hotel Association at Delmonico's: Oysters SOUPS Consomme, Hungarian Clear green turtle HORS D'OEUVRE Boudins de Becasse, a la Diane FISH Striped bass, Massena Fried smelts, Remoulade REMOVES Fillet of beef, stuffed, with sweet peppers Rissotto, Piedmontese style ENTREES Breast of chicken, a la Lorenzo French peas, with lettuce Sweetbreads a la Montebello Celery, Villeroy SHERBET, FAVORITE Roast red head duck FROID Aspics de foie-gras Lettuce salad SWEETS Pears, a la Richelieu Pyramids Fancy creams Fruit Fancy cakes Dessert Coffee WINES HAUTE SAUTERNE HOCHHEIMER SHERRY CHAT. DE FEZ BEAUNE MOET & CHANDON, WHITE SEAL mumm's EXTRA DRY POMMERY SEC PERRIER-JOUET, RESERVE DRY PIPER HEIDSIECK, BRUT EXTRA MONOPOLE CLUB DRY (BRUT) VEUVE CLICQUOT RUINART VIN BRUT LIQUEURS MINERAL WATER 54 THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. CARVING. reply in the negative. I felt that I lacked the knowl- There are a number of culinary works in which the edge of an important branch of the steward's duty, subject of carving is scientifically treated for the and made up my mind that I would learn at the first purpose of self instruction, giving illustrations and opportunity. Not long after I took a position as a comprehensive explanations. While these articles storekeeper in one of the first class hotels, and one are all very good and give a man a theory to work of the conditions on going to work was that I be by, I do not believe one can learn how to carve in taught to carve. It took me but a short time to be- any other way than by actual practice. For in carv- come fairly proficient with the knife and fork, and ing, as well as in a regular profession where skill now I would not be without this knowledge for and dexterity of the hands is required, theory is of anything. some value, of course, but practice is the only way A good carver can easily more than doubly save to learn and to become proficient. his wages for the house he works in. Not only this, The question whether a steward should know how but on the manner in which he serves depends, to a to carve can be answered only by saying, yes. He great extent, the reputation of the hotel's table. For should not only know how to carve but should be an no matter how well a cook may prepare the food, if expert, and, as I have said in a previous article, be it is slovenly served the best effects are lost to the proud of the accomplishment. partaker. A dish is always complimented when Jessup Whitehead, in The Steward's Hand Book, nicely served. A roast when mutilated in carving says, "All stewards are agreed that it is their duty has not only a tendency to disgust a sensitive appe- to carve," and surely we must all admit that it is an tite, but it proves expensive and wasteful, accomplishment of a gentleman. A good carver tries to give the best possible ap- The art belongs to the host or landlord, to the pearance to the dishes he serves. In this way he giver of entertainments, and it belongs to the man pleases both the guest and the house because his of fashion as well. It is only a modern custom which work will result economically. has arisen with the system of feeding large numbers One of the most important points in carving is in of people at one meal, which has made it necessary knowing how to keep the knife in good condition, to adopt the more expedient and economical method No body can carve with a dull knife. Before the of carving the roast in the serving room and serve hour for work arrives, the knives used for this work to the guest in proper portion, instead of placing should be inspected, and sharpened if necessary, the whole roast on the table and the host doing the The roast beef knife, for which I prefer the English carving. slicer, (it has a thin blade about sixteen or eighteen It not very seldom happens now that a guest, wish- inches long; I consider sixteen inches long enough.) ing to entertain friends at dinner, requests the When thin and flexible, as it should be, and of steward to send in a whole turkey, duck, chicken proper temper, it seldom requires a grindstone, a or even a two or three ribbed roast of beef, as he good oil stone being sufficient. But when the edge wishes to do the carving himself. becomes too thick and grinding is necessary, then It is evident then, that the steward in carving is see that the grindstone is evenly balanced and that filling a place of honor. He in that capacity fills the it has an even face. Hold the blade flat against office which was formerly held by the landlord at the stone, drawing it very slowly across the face the table. from one end to the other. Then turn over and re- Murrey, in the preface to his book on Carving, peat the same on the other side; continue this until says, "From my earliest recollections I was taught evenly sharpened. This work can not be hurried, that a thorough knowledge of carving was an im- in an effort to do so the knife will be spoilt. After portant part of my education." Applying it not the knife is sufficiently sharpened, take an oil stone only as I take it, to stewards, but to men of all posi- and smooth the edges. This makes it stand much tions in life. better than if the steel is used at once. When used When I first came to the city looking for a position for nothing but for roast beef, it will remain in good as steward, I went to the office of the most prominent condition for a long time, with an occassional use of hotel journal and placed an advertisement for such the steel. For poultry and game the Sabatier. or a position. The first question that was asked of me the French style carver is most serviceable, and will by the managing editor, I believe, was, "Can you withstand the bones better than the slicer. There carve? if so, I know of a man who wants an inside should also be a trimming knife to use for the pur- steward who can carve." As I could not I had to pose of cutting off the crispy parts of the beef, and THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 55 which can also be used in dissecting lamb, suckling But where the whole leg is roasted, begin by cutting pig, turkey, etc. The other tools are a steel and a slices from the thick or hip end across grain, using good fork. Thus equipped the steward is ready for the fork with your left hand as a stay, giving each work, for which he wears a white bib apron reach- portion a slice from the haunch and a small piece ing to his shoe tops, and has at hand several clean from the fore side of the leg. In this way the more side towels desirable as well as that which is less so will be ROAST BEEF — Begin first by preparing the roast evenly served and used. Another way is to take beef, wliich we will say is as usual in this case, a the bone out by first standing on end holding with a seven-rib cut. Set it on end, thick or shoulder end clean cloth b}' the bone and cutting the thick part down, in the carving dish on a well heated stand, off, beginning at the thin end and running the knife Care should be taken that the roast sets firm and as close to and along the full length of the bone. The near level as possible. Then trim off all surplus fat haunch separated, then with the point of the knife and crisp, the parts of the back bone which may be cut down on both sides of the bone beginning at the left on the roast by the butcher, and then with the thin end. After this draw the bone out with one fork draw out the sinew which runs along the entire hand and with the knife separate the adhering meat length in the thick part of the meat. This if per- from the bone. This done, you have two pieces of mitted to remain, hinders smooth carving and dulls meat to cut from. By the latter method it is hard to the knife. After this, cut close to and parallel with keep the meat from the fore part of the shank from the first or upper rib and about one inch deep; then falling apart, which is more wasteful than the first take the slicer, which should be held in a firm but method, that of carving from the bone, free grasp, not too stiff, all the fingers closed LEG OF MUTTON AND LAMB— Are best carved around the lower broad side of the handle, the right from the bone. With a clean cloth take a firm thumb extending on the upper broad side, holding hold of the shank bone, then begin carving at the in a flat position. Take off the first slice and lay it hip end by cutting thin slices diagonally towards aside for the guest who calls for the outside cut. the bone. The other way is just like that described If business is light and only one sev(^n-rib roast in the foregoing on veal, by first removing the bone, has been prepared, divide it between the second which in this instance I find preferable, as the haunch and the third rib. Then take the two-rib part, lay it separated can be cut in slices squarel> across the on the well done end In this way you will be enabled grain much nicer with assistance of the fork. In to carve that which is medium well done from the serving lamb or mutton a little of the fat should al thick end. Turn over and carve from the small end ways go with the lean, if well done is wanted. The remaining five ribs SADDLE OF MUTTON— The part including both should carve rare providing the joint was properly loins beginning at the lower rib and extending full roasted. Always cut thin slices unless thick is called up to the hips, is best carved lying with the back for. As the slice is cut place it on the dish with the up. Cut with a sharp knife at full length along the flat blade of the knife. Use the fork only for steady- centre of the back bone- then cut away one side ing the roast by resting it against the ribs. No ex- by beginning at the cut made at the back and separ- pert uses his hand in holding roast beef. ate it from the bones to which it still adheres. You In regard to the other joints such as lamb, veal, then have saddle in one solid piece from which nice pork and venison, a great deal depends on how they slices can be carved. Take the other part of the are prepared before roasting. In many hotels the saddle the same way when needed, butcher removes the large bones, which makes it SHOULDER OF MUTTON OR LAMB— These very easy to carve them, very little skill being re- joints are usually prepared by the butcher by re- quired. But where this is not the case, the carver moving the shoulder blade and rolling and tieing, must know the location of the bones and how best then which, after being roasted, requires no skill in to remove them without any waste. carving. But I believe the meat does not have as THE LEG OF VEAL— Weighing eighteen pounds fine a flavor where the bone is removed before roast- and over, being too heavy to be roasted thoroughly ing as when it remains, and it is well worth the well done without becoming too crisp on the outside carver's time to leave the bone for him to remove, within a given time, is usually separated from the It is not such a difficult task after one knows how, bone by the cook before placing in the oven. This especially when the joint is thoroughly well done, is the most economical as there is less waste and No effort should be made to carve until the blade the cook has the bones for his soups and sauces, has been removed. Separate the meat from the leg 56 THE PRACTICAL HO 1 liL STEWARD. to where the blade begins, then lay flat with the rib while slicing. This is a very good method but it has side down. This places the ridge of the blade up, the effect to spoil the appearance of several pieces which can be easily found by feeling with the back through which the fork happens to pass. So I be- ef the knife. Beginning at the leg cut the full length lieve to remove the entire back; by cutting through of the blade on both sides of the ridge. After this the thin ribs connecting the breast and back, is the is well loose pass the knife, which should be a small better way, as you then have the solid breast, which, one, without mutilating, under loose meat and around after having removed the wings, slice with a sharp the end of the blade, where there is usually a gristle, knife, simply steadying with the fork. In serving if the animal was young. Separating this with your turkey give each guest part white and part dark fork you can extricate the blade and place the loose meat. First place the stuffing, then the piece of dark ends back in place. The brisket, or breast rib meat, laying the white meat over the whole. Gravy having been removed previously, you are then ready should not be poured over the white meat as it dis- to carve. As the ribs are mostly called for by the colors it. Cranberry sauce or jelly are best served guests, there will not be enough of them if two ribs on a separate sauce dish. are given to every order; I therefore believe it best The same rules which apply to turkey will answer to give one rib and a slice of the leg when serving a for the CAPON and also to LARGE ROAST full order. Serve each order with one rib; if the CHICKEN, shoulder is small, two ribs. SMALL ROAST CHICKEN— First remove the The foregoing rules will apply also to the LEG wings and the legs. Remove the stuffing, then lay AND SADDLE OF VENISON. on the side, the back from you and split in two, be- IN CARVING A HAM the skin should first be re- ginning at the neck. Then cut the breast in two moved. Then trim off the fat, leaving about three lengthwise. Separate the drumstick from the sec- fourths of an inch. Then split as described in leg ond joint. First place some stuffing, then place a of mutton. Carve the part without the bone, begin- piece of the leg and a piece of the breast for an ning at the thick end, cutting nearly square across order. Always try to keep both colors of meat grain in thin slices. served as evenly as possible. ROAST PIG— When placed on the carving stand THE GOOSE— I believe this the most difficult of whole, begin first by cutting off the head. Divide fowls to carve, and unless young and tender is very this by separating the lower from the upper jaw and little pleasure to serve. In carving first begin by split them. Cut off the shoulders with the blade removing the legs, the same as for turkey, then in- and then the hind quarters. Divide the body in two sert the fork across the center of the breast. Hold lengthwise at the back, lay halves with the skin side it firmly and cut thin slices from the breast, holding up and carve in portions, cutting across grain paral- the knife flat against the breast. After cutting sev- lel with the ribs. Place a little of the stuffing on the eral slices remove the wing. Proceed the same way dish with the meat. If baked apples, serve on same on the opposite side, then remove the wish bone by dish, but apple sauce should be served separately, cutting across down to the shoulders. This does THE TURKEY — Begin by removing the legs, not serve nicely as a vi'hole and is best cut in two at First find where the second joint is attached to the the curve and served with a slice or two of the back. Cut squarely down to the joint, then pass the breast. The second joint should be separated from knife between the body and leg to the end of the the leg and divided in two portions, cutting parallel second joint. By giving a slight outward pressure with the grain. Many prefer the drumstick served the leg will fall off. Then separate the drum stick whole on the bone, but, as a rule the meat is removed from the second joint; then divide the latter in two, from the bone. Place a little dressing on the dish, three, or more parts, according to the size, cutting then a piece of the leg or second joint and one or lengthways, and separate the meat from the drum two slices of the breast. Tart fruit sauce, such as stick. The half of the back with the pope's nose is apple, gooseberry or plum are best served on a then removed. The bone on either side of the back separate small sauce dish. bone is very thin: cut through parallel but not too TAME DUCK in carving, unless it is very large close to the back bone on both sides. This will and fat, you can hardly make more than six full give you the two side bones and pope's nose of the orders out of each bird. Proceed much like carving turkey. You now have the breast. I was taught to a goose. First remove the legs, but do not separate take a strong fork inserting it across the back bone, from the second joint as the two together will not which if it is well set, will enable you to hold firmly make a full order, then remove the wings, then the THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD wish bone and make two orders out of each side of plates, usually with a leaf of lettuce, parsley or some the breast. When the duck is large and fat three other little garnish suiting the occasion, orders may be made from each side. Serve the FISH should always be served on a six-inch plate, same as goose. whether breakfast, dinner or supper, as it does away MALLARD DUCK. In an American plan hotel a with the bringing of an extra change of plates. No mallard duck should make about four to five good other food can well be eaten from the same plate on orders, not including the legs, which are not desir. which fish has been. A small portion of potatoes able though often served. The best way in carving nicely placed on one side, with a leaf of lettuce or a is to remove the legs first, then the wings, if they are small sprig of parsley and a small slice of lemon, not already cut off by the cook. If it is intended to An order of fish served in this manner will be found make but four orders ; cut along one side of the ridge very attractive and appetizing. bone the full length of the breast: then, with your ROAST BEEF appears best when served on what knife, free the meat clear down the side to the wing is known as an eight-inch dish. There should be or shoulder bone and separate from around the wish but little gravy unless otherwise ordered, bone. This gives you the whole side, which can VEAL, LAMB. MUTrO.NJ. TURKEY and all sometimes be cut in three portions, but more often other roasts and boileds should be served on a only two, owing to the condition of the duck and the seven-inch dish, or a size smaller than that for roast size or portions it is desired to serve. Proceed the beef. same way with both sides and serve with a small SINGLE STEAKS, A PAIR OF CHOPS, HAM, spoonful of jelly on the side. CANVASBACK and FRIED EGGS on seven inch dishes. RED HEAD DUCK are served about the same way. MOST ENTREES appear best served on six-inch TEAL DUCK. A nice plump teal duck will make, dishes. All VEGETABLES unless served as en- two portions. Cut through the center lengthways trees or entremets, should be served in what are thus dividing it into equal parts. Place on dish with known as bakers, or deep oval dishes, the cut or hollow side down. Serve with a little All SALADS make the neatest appearance when jelly placed on the side. served on five-inch plates on a leaf of lettuce. The foregoing are the most important roasts which rarni<;Viincr come to the carving stand. Sucli dishes as BOILED TONGUE, CORNED BEEF, FILLETS OF BEEF, etc., require very little instruction, as one's natural intelligence will prove a suflicient guide. A little parsley or water cress, when it is possible to get them, using in their absence a leaf of lettuce, and, in addition, sometimes a slice of lemon adds wonderfully to the appearance of many dishes, and What Dishes to Use in Serving. often has the effect of creating an appetite in those SHELL OYSTERS OR CLAMS to appear most cases where we find it necessary to cater to a deli attractive should be served on deep plates, the hoi- cate stomach, and always enlists a favorable com- low of which should be filled with cracked ice, ac ment. The idea that some may have that it is companied by a quarter of lemon. wasteful or extratagant is, to my mind, erroneous, BOUILLON when clear should be served in because the amount of patronage gained for the cups: but if it contain vegetables or garnishes of house through their attractive table service will any kind, regular soup plates should be used. doubly repay them for any money spent in that HORS D'OEUVRES should be served on five-inch direction. 58 THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. PARTY CATERING. charge, telling him what features of that affair she In some places, the providers or purveyors to so- ciety's entertainment have attained for thDmselves enviable positions, vvliich their gradually acquired knowledge — how to please and be original, what is new and elegant in decorations, what and how to serve at a party, a wedding or a birthday, a ball or a reception of any kind or style have attained for them. The caterer, keeping himself constantly informed of the doings in society principally through the means of papers and periodicals devoted to those interests, is prepared to meet the demands made of him, and not seldom his ideas are first taken into consideration when some social affair is contemp- lated. In order for a man to acquire such a stand, the aspirant should be possessed of refined tastes and manners, an affable disposition, and he must be a firm manager, and as his business, of course, brings him principally in contact with ladies, he should also be an urbane gentleman. For his own success, he must be a good calculator. To get started in this business (unless one has some friendly acquaintances in society, or can buy an already established concern) requires tenacity and a large sum of money, even where there is no such business in town. The most successful that we meet with is usually the man who started out in a small way, probably with a small restaurant and bakery, where he was occasionally called on to pre- pare some special dishes by ladies prominent in their circle, the nicety of which created such favorable impression, that it caused others to give him their orders for similar articles, and the prestige he so gained was taken advantage of. The first important bit of catering which brought Mr. A successfully to the notice of the fashion- ables was, let us say, as follows: Mrs. B s daughter was about to be married. Now Mrs. B was a very prominent leader of the ultra fashionable thought very nice and unique, and of others she dis- liked. She also informed him where she had seen a certain nice piece of statuary and a pair of antique vases, and some other articles of decoration which she thought would look very beautiful, and would harmonize well with what she had for the occasion, and, if possible for him to secure the loan of them, or others like them, for the evening. Mr. A un- dertook to furnish the desired articles, which, as a man of good qualities, and being well known, he had no trouble in renting, at a low price, he assuming the risk of breakage or loss. The next morning Mr. A in company with a florist, went to the resi- dence of the lady to inspect the interior arrange- ments and the lay of the drawing rooms, dining room, kitchen, etc., which was a necessity, in order to knovv all that was necessary to skillfully manage the affair without any possible mishap: also what style of decorations would be most appropriate, and what precautions were necessary to protect the guests from a possible inclemency of the weather. When there, he. found that the house extended back from the street a certain distance, with an entrance from the alley, which made it convenient for unload- ing all supplies in the rear. In front, it required the building of a temporary canopy from the curb to the entrance, and also extending a short distance par- allel with the sidewalk, enabling several carriages to land at the same time. A strip of carpet for the protection of the ladies' dresses and slippers from being soiled, in passing to and from the carriages was necessary from the landing to the guests' en- trance, it was also necessary to have some light. He contracted with a tent manufacturer for making and placing the canopy, (who also supplied the can- vas for covering the carpets in the rooms where necessary; also with an electrician to place a row of incandescent lights under the canop)', and change and place what lights were needed in the different parts of the house. set, so to speak While living in a large and elegant , r. , ^ j j , .1 i j i i ^ After having decided on where the bridal couple mansion on the boulevard, luxuriously furnished, , u * j * j i . a 1 j should stand to receive, and what floral decorations yet she was not prepared to entertain some four or r n .1 n * u t* j ■' ft- were necessary for all purposes, the florist submitted five hundred guests without some assistance. She ,. ,. ^ , ,, . , 1 ,1 . • j ^ his estimate to Mr. A , who also then ascertained mentioned the matter to Mr. A— (who usually , ^ ^ ,1 1 • .. 1 1 i- . j j ii.ciiL yj ^ \ J what tables, chairs, table linens, etc., were needed, supplied her with salads, ice creams and sometimes j u * *i, 1 u • * f i. «• j ^^^ and what the supper should consist of. It was found roasts, etc., on holiday occasions). He seemed so . , , • j u 1 1 ^ t n ^ ' ^ ' ^ ' that he required help about as follows. One man well informed that it was decided he should take . ., • ^ .u a at the carriages; one man at the door ; one man at charge of the decorations and the conducting of the ^, . , ^ /.. . . j j j . v,iiai5c.-. D ^j^g gentlemen s coat room, (the hostess decided to supper. Before leaving, however, Mrs. B dis- have several of her maids take charge of the ladies' cussed a recently given reception by Mrs. J dressing room) ; one headwaiter and his crew of where Mr. Smith happened to be the caterer in assistants; four dishwashers and cleaners. As most THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 59 everything was cooked at Mr. A 's restaurant, he ing coffee and ice cream were already on the table, needed only a small kitchen crew for serving. He where each guest was helped to what he wished by also engaged a private detective, who appeared in an attending waiter. The coffee passed to the guest full dress as if a guest, whose duty it was to notice in a cup and spoon was served (without saucers) any unbidden visitors that often appear in large with some whipped cream ready to drink, crowds. The policeman who was on that beat was After the guests had left, the headwaiter and as- asked to remain around and see that no crowds col- sistants began to clear up, cleaning all the dishes, lected to annoy the guests in passing in and out. glass and silverware, counting and repacking urns On the day of the wedding, Mr. A was given in chamois bags, making a memoranda of everything entire charge of the house. All arrangements and that was damaged or missing. The other help re- decorations were left to his own judgment. In the moved the canopy, and in short, the entire house dining room the tables were arranged in place, suit- was placed in its normal condition before Mr. A 's ing the size and shape of the room. On the side of help left it. In the days following, Mr. A re- the dining room, opposite the entrance, was the ceived many compliments from those who had been bride's table, about ten feet long, on which was there. The supper was served to pei fection, noth- placed the brides cake. The centre of the side fac- ing had been lost, and very little broken, and by his ing the dining room entrance were placed two seats skillful management had relieved the hostess of a for the bride and groom. Next to the bride, the great deal of annoyance, groom's father; next to the groom, the bride s On an another occasion, shortly afterwards. Mr. mother. The clergyman sat next to the bride's A served a buffet breakfast at a wedding where mother, and his wife next to the groom's father, everything was placed on the tables (similar to a The grooms mother next to the clergyman, and the buffet luncheon). These and several subsequent brides father next to the clergyman's wife The undertakings which, like the first, above described, balanceof the tables were small, seating but four all managed successfully, brought him prominently guests. In the hall was placed a table upon which before the public as a skilled caterer of good taste, were some paper boxes containing pieces of wedding His reputation was established. No society affair cake neatly tied up with tiny ribbons, which were to was strictly up to date unless he was in charge of be handed to the guests by a young lady as they the service. He now has an elegant office and sam- passed out. ple room located in the fashionable district of the In the pantry the headwaiter with his assistants, city, in connection with an elegant cafe and restaur- receiving and unpacking all the crockery, silverware, ant located on the ground floor. He has a full line cut glass, linens, the coffee and hot water urns, of samples of everything pertaining to the business, punchbowl, etc., counting and cleaning them, set- and carries a stock of porcelain, silver and cut ting the hot water and coffee urns and placing under glass tableware of the latest designs, from which them gas burners. The silver urns and punch bowl, his patrons may choose when engaging him, and for were placed on the sideboard in the dining room, which he charges accordingly. In the working de- They then set the tables, using very little and simple partment he is fully equipped to meet all demands, decorations. He can send out and have several parties served at In the kitchen the cooks have charge of preparing the same time. His furniture, such as chairs and such dishes as could not be done at the restaurant, tables, are made to fold so they will take but very also heating such dishes as were necessary The little room in transportation. His coffee and water menu consisted of "rns, of which he has a number of different sizes. Bouillon in cups are all provided with alcohol and gas burners. His Bread sticks and sandwiches , . u-^u ^^^^.^a jo^c: otn arpnark(>H Chicken patties packing cans, in which creams, ices, etc, are packed Lamb cutlets with peas for transport are all enameled, that nothing so Fresh lobster mayonnaise r • ., ^ Russian salad packed can contract a foreign taste. Ice cream Cake Violet charlotte j^j^ ^ j,as a most admirable system of count- Cheese and crackers , • ■ Coffee ing and checking everything before leaving his place ; The bouillon was served in heated cups, and bread again on arrival at the house where the serving sticks were placed on folded napkins in front of the is done, and then again on being returned He al- guest. One chicken pattie and one lamb cutlet were ways knows when and where anything is lost or placed on the same plate and passed to each guest, broken and on whom to place the responsibility for Then punch was served. The other articles except- loss or breakage. 6o THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. He has quite a library of books on everything per- two of the edge. They were filled with fruits, and taining to the culinary art, and of the catering busi- added greatly to the appearance, ness. He keeps informed on all the latest events of Large baskets and punch bowls made of nougat, society. The most difficult part of his business, he were also filled with fruits. On opposite sides of finds, is in devising new ideas, with which to meet the table, were enormous platters, each containing the general approval in his patrons' efforts to outdo a salmon, weighing twenty-five pounds, en mayon- one another in entertaining their friends. naise. One of the most beautiful pieces was a crown The foregoing is an illustration of conducting the (the emblem of Messrs. Hiram Walker & Sons, Lim- catering business on a large scale, such as few can ited) made of beef tongues, en jellie, and surmount- afford, and only in large cities. It is usually con' ed with an anchor of stearine, tied with narrow red, ducted in a more moderate way. In most all com- white and blue ribbon, and supporting the American munities you will find both men and women, usually and British flags in silk, one on either side, good cooks, who make a living by going to private Other pieces were lobster en aspic, jellies filled houses to do the cooking and preparing for parties, with small fruits, boned chicken and game in aspic, A GREAT CATERING FEAT. beef a la mode, ornamented hams, salads, etc. Be- The following account of a catering feat, in which sides an elaborate menu of bouillon, salads, cold a Chicago establishment distinguised itself in Can- meats, fruits, sandwiches, ices, lemonade, coffee, ada soil, is reproduced from the National Hotel punches, etc., Mumm's extra dry was served with Reporter: lavish hand. Added to this, a special brand of The scene of the service is a beautiful spot, It cigars was served, made exclusively foi the Messrs. lies between the ornate offices of the Messrs. Walker Walker by Bock & Company, Havana, and encircled and the river, and is laid out in the shape of a lawn by a band bearing the Walkers' name, three hundred by one hundred and fifty feet, divided The guests were lavish in their praises of the un- by a gravel walk from river to oflSces, and flanked bounded hospitality of the Messrs. Walker, and of on three sides by a box hedge, and on the office side the very excellent service rendered by Kinsley's, by a mammoth fountain and bed of tropical plants. and this affair must rank as a truly remarkable one. Two tents were used on this occasion, one sixty when it is stated that it took two carloads of para- feet in diameter, the other forty feet in diameter, to phernalia and material, and forty-five cooks and suit the proportions of the lawn on either side of waiters to serve it, all of which Messrs Kinsley & walk. Surmounting one tent, was the American Baumann took with them from Chicago, entering flag, while the Union Jack floated proudly from the each item in their lengthy invoice through the Cana- pinnacle of the other. The tables in either tent sur- dian Customs, and again through the American Cus- rounded the centre pole, and here the chefs and toms returning. Some little difficulty was exper- waiters had produced the marvelous effect which ienced in passing the Customs at Detroit on the so captivated the guests on their arrival. The plan return trip, the collector insisting upon the payment of decoration was somewhat similar in either tent, of duty on all foreign made articles in the outfit, enough difference of arrangement being made to although they had been used for some time by the avoid absolute sameness. Smilax and asparagus caterers, and duty had been paid on them when im- ferns encircled the centre pole, and tall vases of ported. But upon application to the Hon, Lyman J. American Beauty roses were placed around its base. Gage, Secretary of the Treasury, this difficulty was Wide red, white and blue ribbons in alternate colors removed were stretched from the edge of the table, and THE ENGLISH AS COMMERCIAL CATERERS, carried half way up the centre pole, where they As commercial caterers, the English have attained were fastened in festoons. Candelabra with vari- within certain limits to the highest excellence This colored shades were placed upon the table, and the says the National Hotel Reporter, is an outcome of blending of color with that of the ribbons was har- the incessant eagerness of the Briton to engage in monious and beautiful. some sort of outdoor function in which eating occu- The ornamental pieces consisted of Cornucopias, pies a conspicuous place Whether for boating par- five feet from mouth to tip, and a foot in diameter ties on the Thames, the races, or games of any kind, at th» mouth, made of white and gold pasteboard, the inevitable hamper of provisions is an essential and tied with wide ribbons of red, white and blue part of the equipment. Facility and certainty of alternately, these were laid against the centre pole, transportation make London the centre of alimen- and extended out upon the table to within a foot or tary supply for such occasions. Years of experience THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 6i and practice have taught English caterers a system, don. Another firm of caterers liitewise provide which for compactness and completeness has at- hampers for boating and picnic parties; but they do tained absolute perfection. One London establish- no: include a table as an adjunct. Their hampers ment provides a luncheon hamper, from which are contain linen, china and plate, pigeon pies, ox evolved a table, the comestibles and table furnish- tongue, pressed beef, salads, bread and butter and ings to be placed upon it. This package maybe cheese, all of which are furnished at a cost of 80 opened, and in less than five minutes the table is cents a head. This firm not only feeds its patrons, set up, dressed with linen and a service of silver, but also owns steam launches and house boats for china and cutlery. The eatables, which are included use on the Thames, which may be engaged at a in the hamper, consist of boeuf braise, of which six moment's notice, equipped for \)ccupancy for any tons are sold weekly by one caterer; mayonnaise of length of time. The firm's agents call every day for salmon, chaudfroid de foie-gras, aspic of ortolans, orders, and all that the lessees need consider is the perdreaux a la gelee, etc.. according to the price enjoyment of the moment; every complication of paid, which does not exceed $1 a head, all of the housekeeping being eliminated by the payment of a accessories included. This package is delivered fixed sum. free of charge within a reasonable distance of Lon- «a THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. \Ay^TNP'Q (barrels or casks) should be located in a place where an equable temperature with the least possi- (French, Vin; German, Wein.) ble variation the year round can be maintained, The word wine is a German term. When used which should be not over 60 degrees maximum, alone it applies to the fermented juice of grapes. Sudden changes are most dangerous to wines ; even Other fermented beverages extracted from fruit and when in bottles this should be avoided. New wines, vegetables are also called wine, but the name from and especially the heavy-bodied ones, can stand a which the same is made is prefixed, such as Elder- higher temperature; it is even beneficial to them berry, Gooseberry, etc. while new as it has a tendency to hasten maturity. Wine is made by taking the fruit when thoroughly Damp or foul air is to be avoided, as it has the effect ripe and the juice extracted by means of a press, to produce a moldy taste of the wines: for that The product in the fresh state, which is caUed Must, reason the cellar should be perfectly dry and well is placed in large casks to ferment; and after the ventilated. The ventilators should be either in the wine is settled and cleared it is drawn from the lees ceiling, or, this being mostly impossible, in the walls (which is the thick muddy sediment separated by as near the ceiling as possible. The place should fermentation) and placed in clean casks in cellars be kept scrupulously clean and no foreign matter of equable temperature, where it is permitted to such as vegetables kept in the same, remain for some time and completed for the market. In the centre and full length of the room or cellar The art of making and treating wines is a profes- there should be a rack made of two timbers laying sion which requires study and practice. There are parallel about two or two and a half feet apart, several comprehensive books written on this subject, upon which the barrels are to rest. The barrels one of them Thudicum, where everything is fully ex- should lay perfectly level, with bung at the top. On plained; and while it may not be necessary for a the sides of the cellar should be partitioned shelving, wine steward to know how wine is made and treated in which the bottled wines are kept, each partition I have found it a very pleasant study and have ob- being numbered or labeled showing what kind of tained a great deal of valuable information, which wine it contains. These partitions are divided into came in good place on several occasions. I shall in sections, one to contain all the champagnes, another a brief sketch endeavor to give my own experience Bordeaux, another Burgundy and so on, giving each in the handling of Native American Still Wines, distinct type of wine a section. which covers only a very small field. Their treat- All ales, beers, porters, distilled goods and min- ment, however, I find is very much the same the eral waters should be kept in a separate room, as world over. In some localities, of which California the temperature does not affect them so quickly. is one, they are handled with less danger of loss This latter room is best situated so as to answer as owing to the larger per cent, of alcohol contained an ante room for the wine cellar. In this can also in them than are those of the Middle Eastern States be kept the implements and utensils necessary in and of Europe. the cellar, such as several syphons (of different In Europe, all large establishments, both public sizes) which are used to draw the wine from the and private, have their well regulated wine cellars, barrels through the bung hole; an assortment of which is the pride of the keeper. He pays personal long tapered bungs; a burg starter; some bottle attention. To the Inn keeper it is the most import- racks (which are boards with large round holes in ant part of his business. When the cellars are ex- which the bottles can be placed to drain after wash- tensive he has a man (master of the cellar or wine ing) ; a corking machine ; several faucets; sulphur; steward) in charge of it. In large wine houses the labels for your bottles, and a variety of copper cellar master has a number of assistants who are measures and funnels. kept busy every day in the year issuing, drawing When receiving wine in casks or barrels it should and bottling the different kinds of wine. In well-to- be placed in the cellar on the rack which should be do families where the owner has a small cellar a there for the purpose, as before stated ; then, after man comes around at regular intervals, who looks leveling it, wedge-shaped blocks should be placed after the wine, draws and bottles what his patron on both sides, well piropped, so that the barrels rest may require until he returns. He may have several on them instead of the timbers direct. The next cellars in charge and thereby makes a comfortable thing to be done is to remove the bung, which is living, done with the bung starter (this is a tool like a flat The cellars where wines are kept in the wood long handled mallet.) Several strong blows on the THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 63 Stave near the bung will start it. After removing, then ready for use. The object of sulphur is to examine as to the condition of the wine, and also if destroy any possible remaining germs, retard pre- the barrel is entirely full ; if not take some wine of mature fermentation and act as a preservative in a similar kind and fill clear up, then close up again cases where wines are very weak, with a long bung, which can be more easily removed Barrels should be always sulphured after being at future inspections. emptied and washed, as it keeps them from becom- It is very important that as long as wine is kept in ing sour or turning moldy and they are ready for the wood the package should be kept full to the immediate use at any time. bung hole, for if thera is any room for air it will act To prepare sulphur blades, put one pound of sul- on the wine and a white scum to rise on the top, phur in an iron pan and melt over a fire, then cut which will cause it to become sour in a short time, some manilla or brown paper into strips of one inch If in bottling there should be more than what it takes wide, and dip them into the melted sulphur ; when to fill the bottles on hand, the remainder should be well immersed draw them out again and let cool, immediately drawn into a smaller barrel or keg, so One pound will make a sufficient quantity for a long that they are full, always using wines of the same while. kind to refill. Never use water, as it may cause the CLEANING BOTTLES. ■wine to turn to vinegar. Wine should always remain In cleaning bottles use soft warm water with a for some time in the casks in the same position des- little salsoda (and glass beads where necessary), cribed above, before bottling, in order to get over rinse with clean cold water, then place, bottom up, on the effect of transportation; and then, when it has a rack that they may drain thoroughly. When bottl- been decided to bottle the same, select if possible jng is intended, first inspect your wine ; if perfectly a clear day, as the lees or settling of wine act very clear, set all the bottles it is intended to fill in even much like a barometer, slightly rising on a stormy rows three or four deep. Get your corks ready by day and being settled in clear weather. A matter first washing in clean tepid water, as it softens them of greatest importance is the condition of the bar and they are easier to handle with the machine. It rels, jugs, bottles or other vessels in which wine is jg vvell to have about three assistants in order that drawn or kept, no barrels in which vinegar has been the work move rapidly. One draws with the syphon, kept, or in which v.'ine has become sour, or barrels one fills the bottles, the other corks, caps and labels in which vinegar, acid or mold can be detected, them. When all is finished the bottles should be should be used. Fresh empty whisky or wine bar- placed on the sides, inclining toward the cork and rels are the best. remain in that position until they are to be used, CLEANING BARRELS. tj^g^ jj^gy ought to stand up a day or more to permit The best method of cleaning barrels is as follows: ^^^ sediment, if any, to go to the bottom. First take about eight or ten gallons of scalding hot ^j^^ i^^^ ^^^^ ^^,^ ^^^^^ ^^g,^^ ^^^ ^^ ^^ ^^^^^^^ water (soft), adding about one ounce of sal-soda, or ^^,^^^ ^^^ immediate use. Usually when bottled the fourth of an ounce of caustic soda. When dis- too young, a sediment forms on the lower side of solved put it in the barrels to be cleaned: then drive ^he bottle: where this interferes with the serving it the bung lightly, shake this for about five minutes, ^^^^^^ ^^ rebottled and if this becomes necessary washing the barrel thoroughly; then let run out, p,^^^ ^^^ j^^^^,^ ;^ ^„ inclining position with the then put the same quantity of clean cold water in , , Af* u • «■ n „ .ti^j a^^,-,, tUa ^ ^ J neck or cork up. After being fully settled draw the the barrel and rinse in the same manner. If on dis- 1 u i- *i 1 ..i r..i „„ „„,..ui„ ti,^^ r^^.,i- cork, shaking the bottle as little as possible, then pour charging this the water is perfectly colorless and no ^^^^ ^^j^^^ ^,g^,^ ^^^^^^^ ^.^^^ carefully so as not to foreign odor remains, this will be sufficient ; if the disturb the sediment. Wine improves more rapidly contrary is the case repeat the rinsing two or three .^ ^^^j, ^^^^^^^ ^^,^^^^^ .^ ^^.^^^ ^j^^^ ^f^^^ it i^ ;„ ^ot- times and then fill the barrel with water and let it ^, ^, ... , . , ,„ ,,„„ •. j;^^^n.. oftor ties, though It IS best not to use it directly atter remain for a day, and then, after having emptied the , „,. i^ u u 1 ,„i „,^ .1,0 -,t i^oc* ^ff«r ■' b f bottling. It should lay several months at least alter same, take a blade of sulphur about three inches , ^,,. ^ bottling. long and one inch wide for a forty to fifty gallon BLENDING, cask, attach to a wire hook fastened to a long bung, It sometimes happens that an old wine lacking in light and place it in the barrel, driving the bung, quality can be improved by blending with another After having allowed enough time for the sulphur to which possesses in abundance that which is insuffi- consume, remove the bung, also the charred parts dentin the former; for instance, a "weak" wine which remain attached to the hook. The barrel is with a "heavy-bodied" containing an abundance of 64 THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. alcohol; red wines lacking in color, with the deeptoday no swell repast anywhere in the civilized red. Where the per cent, of alcohol is not high world is complete without sparkling champagne, enough, pure grape alcohol may be added. Harsh The wines of Champagne were recognized among white wines are refined by the use of gelatine and the finest known long before Dom Perignon's dis- adding distilled water. Harsh red wines are im- covery. As far back as the fifth century, St. Remi, proved with mild wines of the same but lighter color, baptiser of Clovis, the first Christian King of France, A white wine which is too pale can be given the bequeathed to various churches the vineyards he golden color by the use of a little caramel, etc. owned at Reims and Laon, together with the men However, blending or doctoring is not to be encour- who attended to their cultivation. [Henry Vizetelly aged, as only expert judges of wine can really tell in Facts About Champagne.] what may improve a wine that is not up to require- Along in the middle ages champagne, the wine of ments, and an amateur can too easily make an ex- kings and nobles, and so highly prized by them, was oensive blunder ^ heavy-bodied red wine resembling the Burgundies ' If there are several casks of young wine in the and for many years there was quite a sharp tilt cellar it should be drawn about twice a year— in the among the medical fraternity as to the relative spring and fall— and put into clean casks, using a merits of the products of the two provinces of syphon or faucet, being careful not to disturb the Champagne and Burgundy, the faculty of Paris to sediment. By paying proper attention to the treat- whom the matter was referred, finally deciding in ment of them the proprietor or manager can lay in a favor of Champagne. large quantity of good new wines and in the course The best wines grown in Champagne are those of of a few years have better goods in his cellar at a the prefecture of Reims and Epernay on the hills reasonable cost than he can buy already bottled, sloping toward the banks of the River Marne. It is paying proportionately a high price for them, Liq- ^aid that the inclination of these hills together with ueur or sweet wines such as Port, Sherry, Madeira, ^he soil, which consists principally of chalk, clay Malaga. Angelica, etc., do not require any of the a"d sand, are most favorable to the growth of fine careful treatment as above mentioned, as the abund- ^'"e, and there is no doubt but what location and ant quantity of alcohol preserves them. soil together are the factors to be reckoned with in any latitude where wines are raised ; as every wine A Classification of Some of the Most Famous grower knows what a great difference there is in Wines, Where Grown and How Made. the quality of the same kind of grapes in the same Beginning with the sparkling or effervescent vineyard. (Mousseux) wines ; This was first made in the Prov- Effervescent champagne is principally made from ince of Champagne, and is said to have been dis- a black grape, identical with that from which red covered by a Benedictine monk named Dom Perig. Burgundies are made, and are known as Plant dore non, chief cellarman of the Abbey of Hautvillers, a "black graped." [Thudicum Treatise on Wines], little village in the prefecture of Reims, one of the There are also other suitable varieties, such as the principal wine producing districts of Champagne grape known as the Meunier, which is of inferior toward the close of the 17th century. It was he quality, but gives abundance in quantity. Only about who first conceived the idea of blending or marrying one fourth of the entire crop of Champagne wines the product of one vineyard with that of another; are transformed into sparkling wines; the balance that is, he found a great difference in the quality of is made into still wines, mostly red. the wines produced; some were light-bodied, with When the season is at hand to gather the grapes, abundant fragrance , others were more generous but great numbers of laborers of both sexes are engaged, possessed very little bouquet. By mixing these who, with arm-baskets, proceed to cut them care- wines together in certain proportions, and even fully, picking off all bad or inferior berries, and adding wines of some previous superior vintage, he when the arm-baskets are filled they are carried to gave each what was lacking, and so improved all- the roadway and emptied into large hempers in It also occurred to him that a piece of cork would which the grapes are transported to the presses, make a more suitable stopper than tow of hemp or This work is done with great care to avoid breaking flax dipped in oil, which was used for that purpose or crushing the fruit before being pressed, for the up to that time. While experimenting in this way reason that as soon as the grapes are crushed incip- he discovered how to make an effervescent wine lent fermentation begins to dissolve the coloring that was delicate and pleasing to the taste; and matter on the husks of the black grapes, and has THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STLWARU. 65 the effect to give the wine a reddish tint. The grapes there it flows through pipes into reservoirs, to which should he pressed as soon as possible after picking are connected a number of faucits or taps which and the time for pressing them is not longer than close automatically as soon as the bottle is full, two hours The must so produced is placed in vats They are then removed and passed to the men who and allowed to remain for some time — not exceeding cork them and place an iron fastener (called an one day. This after being allowed to clear, is then agrafe) which can be easily removed when the time drawn into barrels of ordinary size and placed into comes for disgorging or removing the yeast. The cellars to ferment and is not disturbed until winter bottles are then placed in a cellar for future fer- About the middle of December, the wine having mentation, during which time there is some loss become perfectly clear is drawn from the lees occasioned by the bursting of the bottles; and the After this, manufacturing houses carry the wine to men working in these cellars when handling the their own cellars, where they do the mixing and pre- bottles are obliged to wear wire masks and leather pare the wine to suit the taste of their patrons, gloves to protect them from injury. After fermen- which is done by taking different qualities of wine tation ceases the bottles are placed in an inclined in carefully estimated proportions, mixing them to- position, neck down, and are often turned, which gether thoroughly in large vats called "making a causes the sediment which has settled on the side cuvee." In these the wine is thoroughly stirred of the bottle to deposit itself down to the cork, with fan-shaped paddles and then again put into Then the disgorging begins, which is done by remov- barrels. Usually about four-fifths of the wine from ing the cork and, by expert manipulation, expels the black grapes is mixed with one-fifth of white grape lump of yeast and the raising foam carrying all wine. remaining impurities with it, with but little loss of The expert wine maker must know at this time wine. The bottles then pass to the finishers who the amount of carbonic acid gas it contains, as on add what liqueur may be required, cork, wire and this depends the strength of effervescene, which, if label them. The wine prepared as above is per- too strong, will burst too many bottles, or, if too fectly dry (Brut) there is no perceptible taste of weak, the wine will not sparkle. They now have an sugar; and as the taste of consumers differ, some instrument called glucometer, whereby the exact desiring more sweet than others, the process of amount of saccharine is ascertained. If it shows a liqueuring is resorted to. This is done by the addi- lack of the latter pure sugar candy is added. If an tion of a liqueur prepared of spirits of wine and. excess of sugar is shown, bottling must be deferred sugar, small quantities of which are added in vary- until it has been absorbed through fermentation, ing proportions to each bottle as desired. In some The fineing or clearing is done by the use of gelatine cases the addition of a little spirits of wine without dissolved in wine and small quantities added in each sugar is all that is required. This done, the bottle barrel and thoroughly mixed with a kind of paddle passes to the men who do the corking, then on to which can pass through the bung hole. It is during others who attach the strings and wire to secure this stage of fineing and blending that the wine is the corks, then to others who apply the foil, and fin- really made and requires the greatest care to pre- ally they pass to the labelers. The wine is then vent spoiling. ready for shipping. After this comes the bottling. Owing to the tre- Champagne is produced in four qualities namely: mendous pressure of the gas generated during i — Non Mousseux. fermentation, which ensues after bottling, the bot 2— Crement. ties used for the purpose must be perfectly round 3 — Mousseux. and the glass of even thickness. They are all tested 4 — Grand Mousseux. by an expert and none are ever used a second time. The first, NON MOUSSEUX. is fined, drawn into Every precaution is used in order to keep the per bottles, corked and tied in the usual manner, but centage of bottles bursting during fermentation does not become effervescent; it is the original down as low as possible. method of making bottled champagne. The washing is done mostly by women. They use (2) CREMENT, is moderately sparkling, there is glass beads instead of shot, and after the bottles only a slight effervescence when poured into the are clear they are again examined. The season for glass. bottling is usually between April and August. When (3) MOUSSEUX. This wine when the bottle is the work begins the barrels of wine are brought up opened projects the cork with an audible report from the cellar and emptied into large vats; from and rises gently to the mouth of the bottle. 66 THE PRACTICAL HO 1 KL STEWARD. (4) GRAND MOUSSEUX, projects the cork with by E. Normandin & Co., near Bordeaux in a little a loud report and the wine overflows the bottle. town of Chateauneuf. The prices on wines for the market are according In the Province of Anjou (the cradle of the Plant- to the different grades which are : Ordinary wines, agenet kings) SPARKLING SAUMUR is extensively Fine wines and Cabinet wines, Pale wines and Red- made. This section ranks next to Champagne in dish wines. By the term dry or extra dry (brut) is importance of making effervescent wines and they meant wines to which no sweetening has been added are largely sold as the real champagne, and is Ml its natural state. Sec ov Grand Sec \i, used In Burgundy we find the SPARKLING CHAM- for wines which have been added to with sweet BERTIN, VOUGEOT, ROMANEE, NUITS and liqueur. VOLNEY. The first man to introduce sparkling champagne In Lower Burgundy the effervescent VIN D'AR- bearing the manufacturer's name (becoming immed- BANNE is made at Bar Sur Aube; near that place lately a popular wine with the French nobility) was the VIN D'ARBOIS is also made; but the latter the Marquis De Sillery. Since then the number of wines retain their effervescence only a few years, champagne makers has constantly increased. In the South of France the SPARKLING ST Among the older and most prominent houses now PERAY is a wine of good reputation. The method manufacturing sparkling champagnes (the majority of making it differs somewhat from champagne, of whom make both natural, intermediate or Grand The grapes from which these wines are made, are Sec wines,) are the following: Veuve Cliquot (now Cliquot-Werle). Moet & Chandon. G. H. Mumm & Co. Pommery & Greno. Deutz & Gelderman. Heidsiek & Co Ernest Irroy. Ruinart Pere & Fils. Perrier Jouet. George Goulet. Louis Roederer. Delbeck & Co. Dagonet & Fils. Bouche Fils & Co. Giesler & Co. J. Lemoine. Krug & Co. Chas. Farre & Co. Gustave Gibert. M, Duchatel. Fisse Thirion & Co. Binet Fils & Co., and others. very sweet and require no addition of sugar, which enables the manufacturers to dispense with some of the operations necessary in making champagne, which requires fermentation both in the cask and afterwards in the bottles. In making Sparkling St. Peray only one fermentation is necessary, the must being bottled as it comes from the presses. In years when the grapes contain too much sugar a little dry white wine is added after disgorging, which is done the same as in champagne. 1 his wine is of a pale golden color and said to be of fine flavor. It is said that it is so strong in alcohol, that one glass of it has an equal exhilerating effect of three glasses of champagne. This wine improves in keeping a few years but finally loses all of its effervescence. It is marketed in England, Russia, Belgium, Holland and Germany There is made also a wine known as CLARIETTE DE DIE which when newly made is a sweet sparkling wine, but loses all of its efferves- cence in about two years. At Limoux near the base of the Pyrenees, they make the SPARKLING BLAN- QUETTE, which is much favored in that section and usually classed with the Saint Per?3 range between 15 and 25 degrees of proof Spirit. Wines of Austria. Wine growing and making is an important Indus try in many parts of Austria, but it is owing to the fact that in some instances the wines are very poor and will not last, that most of them are consumed at home. In some sections very good wines are produced, especially in the southern part of Austria the red wines are so dark and full bodied that when mixed with an equal part of water they still have the color and strength of urdinary Bordeaux wines, while in the less favorable sections they are ex- tremely poor, rasping the tongue like the roughest cider. "H. Vizetelly in Wines of the World." The principal grapes grown are the blue Portugese and are said to have been imported from Portugal The wines grown in Lower Austria belong to the better qualities and are well known throughout Europe, the leading ones of which are: Red and white Voslauer White Goldeck Gumpoldskirchner Klosterneuburger " Weidlinger " Nussdorfer " Grinzinger •' Perchtolsdorfcr " Brunner and Riesling Of the above varieties the Voslauer is the best known. Ihe market for these wines is Russia, Turkey. Egypt, Germany and England. The general character of Red Voslauer is like Bordeaux but stronger and rather more sweetish, while the white somewhat resembles white Burgundy. The white wines are made mostly from the Riesling grape and most of the wines are ready for bottling after three years. Other wines of good quality are: White Mailberger " Haugsdorfer THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. White Guntramsdorfer " Enzerdorfer " Strausser " Shiebbs Red Matzner " Merkensteiner Falkensteiner and " Schrattenthaler The principal growths of Styria are first the White Lullenberger Wallershack Kaisersberger Grunauer " Jerusalemer Radkersburger " Schmitsberger " Rittersberger Eichberger and others The above wines are made from the Malvasia and Mosler grapes and are rather sweet and syrupy, with a fine spirituous flavor. Some of the other wines are : Red and white Marburger Red Gonobitzer The Styrian Schiller wines (so called because of having a light red color) are: Hochenburger Schwanberger Mr. Vizetelli says there are some two hundred different kinds of wines grown in Styria which differ in flavor, quality and time of ripening. The wines of German Tyrol are on the average similar to the Bordeaux. I will name the Red St. Magdealene Leitacher " Hoertenberger Red and white Salurner White Terlauer " Eppaner Kalteier " Seewcin Schloss Rametzer Kuechelberger Italian Tyrol produces large quantities of fine red wines from grapes known as the Burgundy, Cabernet and Portugese "imported" and Rassara, Gropello di Revo, Pavana and others "natives." Some of the wines of this section are the: Red Isera " Calliand " Ala " Rovereto " Ngrara THE F^RACTICAL Red Mezzolombardo " San Michele " Maizemino The names of some of the Moravian wines are . White Poleschowitz " Pollau " Bratelsbrunn Klentnitz " Baumoehl " Rauschenbruch Sctiattau Of Boliemia : Red Melnicker Red and white Labin Trogsiaver ' Berkowitzer White Cerneseker " Trojer In Illyria they produce a deep red full bodied wine known as Sittersdorfer : others: Stadtberger, a Schiller (light red) wine Bigama, golden St. Cancian, white And the Picolit, a thick sweet straw wine, the latter is quite a favorite in Turkey and Southern Russia, to where il is extensively shipped. Near Trieste are grown the: Prosecco, reddish yellow straw wine Merzaminos, dark red Refascos " Piantadella " " Wines from this section do not grow old, most of them being used when less than a year old. Dalmatia produces some very good wines ranking above the average of Austrian wines. The grapes principally grown are mostly of Italian origin. Some of them are the Kadarka, the Crelenjack, the Plavec and Madrulj. All of them dark varieties. Among the white are the" Vugava and Maraschino, a very sweet grape from which a sweet liqueur wine is made by that name (but this must not be mistaken for the liqueur by that name which is a distillation of cherries.) The Vugava wine is of a bright golden color, swe and spirituous. Cerljenacer, color and taste like Malaga Zlatarizza, rosecolor Madrina, deep red, sweet Rusivica Muscat di Rosa, white The latter from the Almissa Muscat grape, which gives delightful sweet wine of delicate rose scent. HOTEL STEWARD. 73 The Dalmatian wines are the most spirituous of all Austrian wines, in some years containing over thirty percent, of proof spirit, the strength of the other wines ranging from as low as 12 to as high as 28 per cent, of proof spirits. Hung-aria. The wines of Hungaria have been renowned for many centuries. History states that the Romans introduced the cultivation of the vine about the be- ginning of the Christian era. Of the many excellent varieties produced, the Takey and Rust wines are the most famous, the former commanding a higher price than any other wine in the world. Takey wine is made from several kinds of grapes, the Furmint or white Hungarian, the Weissling, the white Takey and white Malvasia. The grapes re- main on the vine until they are in a shrivelled con- dition, and when gathered the perfectly dried berries are selected and placed in tubs with per- forated bottoms. The grapes exude from their own weight upon each other. The drippings pass into a receptacle placed under the tubs. The liquid so collected contains a large amount of sugar. This is called essence. It passes through a very slow fer- mentation and contains but little alcohol. It must be very old before being ready for market, and is not considered fully matured until about thirty years old in the barrel. Takey Ausbruch is made by adding to the must of the plump rip,i grape a certain per cent, of dry berries. The wine made without any addition of dry berries is called ordinary wine; and where the grapes are pressed as they come from the vineyard (dry and plump together) is called natural wine "Szaiiiorodni. " The imperial Takey grows at a small town named Tarczal and ne^'er appears in trade. Among the »vines of the first class, I will mention' Takey, essence, sweet white " Ausbruch " " Ruster " " Menes Magyarat Ausbruch, sweet, red and white Bakacsonyer Bratenwein white Somlauer Szamorodnyer " " Neszeling, table and dessert wines, white Villany, like Burgundy, red Adelsberger, dinner and dessert wine, red Erlauer, light bodied red Szegzardi, table wine " Baraya, dinner wine " 74 Stembruch, dinner wine, white Ermellicker. Bratenwein " Eisenberger, dinner Odenberger, sweetish " Somogy, red and white Simonthurn, sweetish, red Meneser, Ausbruch "like Port," red Menesch, white Magyarater, white Karlowitzer, red Tetenyer, slightly sweet, deep red and many others. THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. is done to prevent the wine from becoming sour while still imperfectly fermented. The barrels in which the must is placed are never entirely filled, but there is always a vacuum of sev- eral gallons. In the winter the wine is racked from the lees and afterward a certain amount of spirits added to each butt, the fine wines receiving much less than the common ones at this time. To the latter class Vin de Color is added, which is a quan- tity of must boiled down to one-fifth its original bulk in a copper kettle; this makes a brown liquid almost the consistency of thin molasses, with an The alcoholic strength of Hungarian wines aver- unpleasant bitter taste. Quantities of this is added ages from i8 to 28 per cent, proof spirits. Takey until the wine is of the desired color. has from 20 to 25 per cent. Sherry is naturally a dry wine, but as a large per _ cent, of the export trade demands some sweet and WmeS of Spam. some slightly sweet sherry, Dulce ir5 added in var- In Spain they do not have cellars in which to make ious proportions. This is a preparation made from and keep wine, but instead they have large build- the must of over-ripe grapes checked in its fermen ings above ground with doors and windows. In tation by the addition of a large quantity of strong these "Bodegas," as they are called, the wine is spirits with cane sugar. made and kept until it is sold. The wine has no High class sherries are seldom shipped out of protection from the sudden and sometimes extreme Spain. They use them principally in improving the changes of temperature; it is no wonder, then, that new or more inferior qualities, which are exported, many a butt becomes sick and has to be sent to the The fine sherries are made of separately selected distillery to be turned into alcohol, which is the grapes, which are placed on mats to dry in the sun case in that country. until they become shriveled and then pressed. This While wines are grown to a g^eat extent all over class of wine is neither sulphured, colored nor Spain, the sections where this industry forms a sweetened. most important item in their source of revenue are The terms used for the different stages of the Jerez, Manzanilla, Malaga, Granada, Valencia and wine is as follows: Terragona. Of these Jerez heads the list in produc- Wine aged i year is "Vin dun Anno" or 'An- ing fine sherries. In the other districts named they nadas.' make, besides sherries, also white and red wines From the 5th to the 8th year it is "Fino." From 8th to 14th year it becomes Amontillado. 14th " 2oth " " " Oloroso. They are graded according to quality as follows: Palma is fine and dry. Double Palma ;same as above, but more developed. Treble Palma: the higliest grade, best of Amon tillado. Palo Cortado is O'cioso, having developed a fine both sivect and dry, some of them resembling those of Bordeaux. Of the principal varieties of grapes from which sherry is made are the Mantuo Castellano, prolific large berries; the Polomino Medium, green color; the Perruno, small yellow, and the greenish white Pedro Jimenez. In making wine they first place all the ripe grapes in a lagar (which is a trough of wood in which the perfume. wine is pressed-) and dust them over with plaster of Doable Palo Cortado: finer than the above, paris, which has the effect to neutralize the acid con- Treble Palo: the finest Oloroso, tained in the grapes. After this they are pressed. Raya is the third quality. It is in its natural state The weaker musts are then sulphured, which is done a good dry wine and is mostly prepared for exporta- by filling a vat in the top of which is a sieve tion to England and America, through which the must flows after being poured into Dos Rayas is a common wine, the vat by a pump from below: the must flowing Tres Rayas, very poor, not fit to sell, through the sieve spreads it like a shower and Besides sherries other wines of good quality are causes it to freely absorb the sulphurous acid. This the: THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 75 Gold colored Pajerete, full flavored, sweet Red Tinto do Rota, natural dry. " Malaga, dry and sweet " Tarragona, like Port " Val de Penas, dry sub bitter White Val de Penas, sweet Red Malmsey " Muscat " Valencia, sweet, used for Port " Vin Raucio, dry natural " Ojo de Gallo, light aromatic White Imperial Blanco, light aromatic color, but with age changes to a brownish purple. The section known to produce the finest Port is the Alto Douro, and comprises the mountain slopes bordering on the Douro River. In some places the hills on which the vineyards are located are so steep that it is necessary for men to carry the must, after being extracted, to lower and more accessible places in goat skins; it is then placed on the backs of don- keys who carry it to such places still farther down, where wagons are in waiting to take it to the Adegas. The soil is so poor and so little of it that nothing else could be raised but grapes: sometimes even Alcoholic strength of Spanish wines are: the un- they die for want of moisture in warm weather, fortified from 22 to 28 per cent. ; others with spirits The principal varieties of grapes grown are the added range from 30 to 37 per cent, proof spirits. Alvarelhao, the Bastardo, the Toariga, the Gouveio In concluding the subject of Wines of Spain it and the Souzao. As stated above the general treat- may be well for me to explain the use of the term ment of wines is the same as in Spain. The lagares 5c5/(rra which we occasionally meet with, as in quoting (in which the grapes are placed to be crushed by "Private Solera," referring to quality. the bare feet of men and are left to ferment before After the wine has passed through the stage of extracting) are principally of stone about six yards development, we will say, some of it is Palma, square. While it is said that the system of wine double Palma, Palo or Raya. The dealer or mer- making could be improved upon in the Oporto dis- chant separates them; he takes the Palma, or, rather, trict the fact remains that pure old Port wine is Amontillado, and places them with others which he known to be one of the most wholesome stimulants has of the same quality ; and the same with all the for feeble persons. other classes. Now if he has a hundred butts of Besides Port wines Portugal produces large quan- Amontillado and some one buys twenty-five, he titles of other white and red varieties, many of them draws an equal quantity from each of the hundred dry similar to Bordeaux, but very little of them butts to make up the twenty five and then goes to shipped abroad on their own merits, principally be- the nursery, Criadera (the part of the Bodega where cause they will not stand travel. I will mention his wine lies until it shows quality) and selects those of twenty-five butts; or, if he has none of his own, The Province of Estramadura, the then he buys of some other grower, some of the same quality, and proceeds to refill the butts from which he has drawn, thus keepmg his Solera in tact. They never sell an entire butt if it can be avoided, nor do they empty them. This has the effect to de- stroy the effect or individuality of any one year's vintage, the quality of the wine depending entirely on the kind and quality of grapes. Wines of Portugal. As in Spain wine is made and stored above sur- face, but the buildings are called Adegas instead of Bodegas. The system of making wine is also very much like the Spanish. As a wine producing country Portugal holds a most interesting place, owing to the famous Port which has found its way to the markets of the world, England and its colonies being the largest consum- ers. Port is made both white and red; the former is mostly shipped to northern Europe, Russia and Scandinavia. The red when first made is of a deep White, Lissubon, dry Muscat Calcavella, sweet Bucellas, good table wine. The country surrounding Lissabon White, Setural Terma, light bodied, fruity Red, Colares " Barra-aBarra " Faro '• Lamego " Salarem " Moncaon Ruby tint, Monsao, slightly astringent Rose " tart Golden " sweet, acidulous Red, Areas, slightly sweet and acid " Lamalonga " " aromatic " Gouvio, full flavored " MalvaS'ia " Conaifesto " Mouriseo Next to France, Italy is probably the most import- ant wine growing country of Europe and some very Wines of Madeira. 76 THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. Topaz, Villa Flor, spirituous, aromatic, both WineS of Italy dry and sweet Red, Lavardio, dry " Azambuja, full bodied, tart, spirituous r, , _ ,, , ,^ . fine varieties are produced there. The system of Pale, Torres Vedras, soft, sweet *^ ■' Ruby, Calvel, balmy perfume making wine in most localities is similar to that of And many others. France and Germany to which large quantities are The alcoholic strength of the wines of Portugal exported. varies from as low as eleven to forty per cent, proof Some very fine v/ines of Northern Italy are those spirits. of the district of Piedmont, where they are called by the name of the grape from which it is made, some of which are : The wines of the island of Madeira are no less Red Barbera Table wine, dry famous than tiie Port, and have held their promi- " Bonarda " ' nence for several centuries. The same method of Fresa " ' wine making is followed there as in Portugal, the " Grignolino " " finest vineyard on the island belonging to the Royai '• Dolcetto '' ' Family of that country. It is a very delightful wine. Wine made from a mixture of grapes is called somewhat resembling Port, and their color is amber Uvaggio and pale red. Red Borolo is a heavy full bodied wine of excel The grapes from which Madeira is made are the lent quality. Malvasia, imported from Candia and Cyprus Islands. Red Nebbiolo Secco, dry table wine It is said that they make the best wine. Other grapes Lombardy wines, considered of rather poor qual- are the Vidogna, the Bagoual, the Mascatcl and ity. Well known growths from that section are: Alicante, all bearing white fruit. The black are Red Corvino dry the Batardo, the Negramal, the Ferral and the " Malvasia " Tinta, all but the latter being used in making white " Erbametto "' wine. In former years the custom for improving the " Bordagno " wine was to ship it as baiiast on a long journey to White Casalmaggiore, dry ■warm climates, to the East or West Indies, this liav- Red Sassella, dry ing the effect to hasten the development of the wine. In Venetia we find the following wines enjoying a Such wines would then be quoted in the market as good reputation. Madeira twice passed the line: Madeira East India, Red CorvinI, dry, rather harsh etc. At present they use heated buildings with " Valpolicelio, dry, pleasant table wine glass roofs, called estufas. The wine \9 fortified Red and white Prosecco, dry with spirits at different stages without which it " " " Piccoiit dolce sweet would be too weak to keep or travel The follow- White Montu ing are the names best known in trade " Aleonzo Buai Red Vini da Pasto Maivasia ''■ Cesena Scrciai '' Fori; Verdeiho " Rimini Produced at Cama do LoboA, Campanario. San The finest \vines in Italy are said to be grown in Roque and Funchai the latter being the principal Tuscany, some of the best among them are . port. Brilliant purple Montepulciano, spirituous aro- Wines of The Canaries matic, rather sweet. Red Asti, dry Formerly a great deal of the wine grown there ' ChiancI, dry, delightful table wine was marketed as Madeira, but now they are princi- *' Pomino ' ' " pally sold as sherries to Central America and Brazil. " Artimino ' ' " It is on these Islands where the once famous Sack. '• Carmignano, dry, delightfui table wine a light sweet wine was raised, the expression having Red and white Montalcino, dry, delightful table been taken from Sec or Secco. wine THE F'RACTICAL Red Ripa, dry, delightful table wine " Poggiosecco, sweet White Nippozzono, dry Altomino " Castelruggero " In the South of Italy the far-famed Red and white Lacryma Christi, sweet Red Falerno, rather sweet " La Cryma Tiberii, rather sweet " La Cryrra di Casteilamare White Capri bianco, dry like sauterne Baja " Furia d'Ischia '■ Capo di Miseno Falerno Faustiana and many other sweet and dry varieties. • The La Cryma Christi is extensively made into sparkling wine and is said to be very popular in that country as such. In Sicily many good wines are produced of which the best known are the White Ma/sala, sweet, like Madeira '• Malvasia " " Moscato di Stramboli Red Marsala, dry Malmsey Amber color Villa Solto, like sherry San Sidero " " " Amareno " " Red tawney Mont Matrissa, tonical flavor " brilliant Santa Venera, soft, pleasant Amber, Dacarella, sweet, sharp Deep amber Cavallaro, dry " " Albanello, slightly sweet, sharp " Alcantara, spirituous pungent The alcoholic strength of the wines of Italy are from 22 to 24 degrees proof spirits in the North to as high as 29 to 30 in the South. Wines of Switzerland. The best wines in Switzerland are grown at Neuf- chatel ; they are the: Ruby color Cortaillod, dry like Burgundy Faverge " " " Boudry " " " " " Concise " " Colombier " " " From the Canton of Vaud the: White Deselay, fine, strong, aromatic • " St. Saphorin, dry '• Chebres, " La Cote HOTEL SIEWARU. jj Among other rich wines are the: Red St. Prex, dry, highly spirituous " Salvaquin " " " '• Gringet Gold colored Aigle, dry. sub acidulous agreeable " " Yvorne " " " " " Glacier, rich liqueur wine Red Visp, dry, full bodied " Baillio " Oberlander, dry " Costamser, " White Completer " " Sieblingener " Red Hallauer " Karthauser and others. The system of wine making is the same as in France and Germany. The alcoholic strength of Swiss wines ranges from 10 to 25 per cent, proof spirits. Wines of Greeoe. Greece occupies a mo.-,t interesting place among wine growing countries. In most instances the cellars are level with the ground, like in Spain, but the French system of wine making is most general. Owing to the semi-tropical climate great care is re- quired to prevent formation of acetic acid. The white wines must be pressed as rapidly as possible; and in making red wines the skins must be kept under the surface of the must, and, as far as pos- sible, the air excluded. Resin is applied to all wine made for home use. It is said that this is done to make the wine a pro- tective against malaria fever; but the wines for export are unresined, especially those grown in the Islands Santorin. Cephalonia, Zante and the penin- sula of Morea. I will mention some of the best knovi'n and most favored varieties: St. Elie, pale, original flavor resembling somewhat fine Amontillado Hymettus, rich ruby color. Burgundy flavor Hymettus. white, " " like Sauterne Noussa, red " " dry fruity Kephisia, red and white, decided boquet, deli- cate and dry Patras, color and flavor like fine Port Patras, white like Rhine wine Mavrodaphne, a liqueur wine Come, pale red, sweetish Sautorin, red, becomes topoz with age Night wine, a poetical turn for St. Elie Sauto wine, delicious muscat made from partly dried grapes like straw wine; made in pur- 78 THE PRACTICAL pie and white La Cryma Cliristi, delicious, sweet like wine of same name in Italy The alcoholic strength of the wines from Greece ranges from 15 to 26 degrees proof spirits. Excellent sparkling wines are also made in that country. Wines of Russia. The wine production of Russia is very limited and is confined to the southern part, along the Black Sea; though it is said that in Caucasia wine has been produced for ages past and that the wines of Europe have their origin there. The best wine is produced in Crimea. The liqueur-wines are of a delicious taste and boquet, and the red dry wines of a beautiful color and all contain a high per cent. of alcohol. Sparkling wines like champagne are also made. Vines principally grown there now are from Bor- deaux, Burgundy, tlie Rhine, Austria and Hungaria. The wines are named after the grape from which they are produced, like Sauterne, Burgundy, Ries- ling, Tokay, etc. The alcoholic strength of Russian wines averages from 14 to 25 per cent, of proof spirits. As a rule the} do not fortify wines in that section. Wines of Turkey and Roumania. Roumania produces some very good wines on the southern slopes of the Carpathian Mountains, re- sembling in quality the Hungarian and Southern Austrian product.s, being mostly white, of good rep- utation for delicacy of flavor and boquet. Best known varieties: White Croznovano Red Vigue de Monsieur " Jassy-Nicorestic Dealul Mare, Tohanic Scl.arata and others. Although the Koran prohibits the use of wine, there is nevertheless considerable produced in Tur- key, its climate being most favorably suited forwine making;and beforeMohammedanism took possession of the country centuries ago, in fact about the be- ginning of the Christian Era, the Romans derived large quantities of their best wines from what is now Turkey, especially the Islands of Cyprus, Crete or Candia and Malta. But very little of the^wines made there reach the outside market. One reason for this is that in the making of wine they have the custom of coating their wine vessels with resin, and also add mastic and turpentine to the must, which they claim is pre- HOTEL STEWARD, ventative against lung troubles; this gives it a most disagreeable flavor and a foreigner would consider it unfit to drink. This applies principally to conti- nental Turkey. Some of the wines produced on the Islands are quite pleasant. The industry is confined principally to the Christian population. The old fashioned coned shaped vessel is still used, which is partially buried in the ground. In Candia is where the wines extolled by ancient historians, Diodorus and others, are grown. Some of them are : Topez, colored Passum, sweet " " Pramnian Malvasia, sweet Fine Malmseys and Muscat wines are also grown on this Island. On the Island of Rhodes grows the wine which was much favored by Byron, called Samian. It is a muscat. On Seiv grows the wine which Pliny praised over eighteen centuries ago. The wines grown near Smyrna and Jerusalem very much resemble rich Muscadines. From Mt. Lebanon comes the: Red Vin doux Rosu, sweet rose tinted Vino d'Oro, bright dry wine. The Wines of Persia. The wines best known in ancient times in Persia were of Ariana, Bactriana, Hycrania and Margiana, grown on the slopes south of the Caspian. But the best there at the present time are those of Shiraz and Ferdistan. The wines in that country are made in amphoral shaped vases holding a little more than a hogshead, glazed both in and outside, and are covered with mutton tallow. When ready for use it is put in large glass Piasks, using wax and pressed cotton instead of a cork for a stopper. The wine dealers often mix Raki and saffron or extract of hemp to make it more quickly intoxicating; they also perfume the wine. The best known wines of Persia are: Red and white Shiraz, sweet " " " Ferdistan " " " " Haneadan " " " " Tabris " " " Teller and " " " Kasbin. V/ines of Africa. It is said that before the advent of the Mohamme dan religion, wine was extensively produced along the entire North coast of Africa, but since then and up to the time that France began colonizing Algiers THE PRACTICAL and Tunis, the industry was entirely destroyed. Now, however, the Frencli are raising considerable quantities of good wines, principally from vines brought there from the South of France, the pioduct resembling that of the mother country. In Morocco what little wine is made is done prin- cipally by Jews. They apply the system similar to that of Southern Spain. Grapes are said to grow larger and sweeter there than most anywhere else The wine is kept in large jars or vases and in goat skins. In ancient times the Nile Valley produced large quantities of wine, considerable of which was ship- ped to Rome. They were those of Arsinoe, Mendas, Koptos and Mareotis; but since the reign of Islam only grapes and raisins are raised. In Cape of Good Hope some very good wines are made. The industry began almost with the coloniz- ing under the Dutch, about the year 1650. They imported from different European countries the finest vines as well as expert vintners; the result was that for many years the Cape wines which found their way to the markets in Europe were much sought and brought good prices; but of late years, owing to large production and changes in English tariff laws, prices have fallen to a normal value. The principal wines produced are Sherry, Port, Ma- deira, Frontigiiac (so called for the reason the same class grape used and a similar method pursued in the making as in the countries from which the vine was brought); also large quantities of Cape Hock is made. But the most renowned from that section are the red and white Constancia, a sweet liqueur wine, and the Pontac, fruity and dry. Wines of Australia. Vine culture in Australia is of comparatively re- HOTEL STEWARD 79 cent date. Until the year 1840 the industry was not known there. At that time, however, vines were imported from France, Germany, Italy, Spain, Por- tugal and of the best from other wine producing countries, by the colonies, namely: Victoria, New South Wales, Queensland, South and West Austra- lia. Since then the industry has grown rapidly and with gratifying results. The wines made there are of superior quality and many of them have gained considerable recognition of importance in European markets. Red and white, dry and sweet liqueur, as well as some sparkling varieties are produced which are in most instances named after the vine or the locality from which they were imported. The wines most favorably spoken of are the: Red Glenpora, dry " Hermitage, dry like wine of same name in France like Medoc " Cabernet dry " Burgundy " Irrewang " " Kapunda, resembling joung port " Yering dry delicate " Sunbury " " Matavo, dry like port Tawney red Beaumont, soft, sweet, spirituous " Tintara, strong alcoholic White Riesling, dry like Rhine wine Rich golden Pedro Jimenez, dry, pleasant Light " Temprano, dry soft White Highercombe dry, sub acid ' Auldana ' like Rhine wine " Carwarra " " Sauterne " Muscat The average alcoholic strength of Australian wines ranges from 16 to 28 per cent, proof spirits. 3o THE PRACllCAL HOTEL STEWARD. INTERESTING SELECTIONS FROM THE WINE LIST OF A DIRECT IMPORTER. In completing the article on the Wines of the Old World, and before starting on the American wines, I think it may be of interest to many readers to re- produce at this time the wholesale wine-list of a direct importer. The information contained therein is of value, and in printing it I take pleasure in mak- ing the following acknowledgment. « * By courtesv of Mr. H. V. Bemis, president of the BemisRichelieu Wine Company of Chicago, we pre- sent the wholesale wine-list of the famous Richelieu wine cellars as stocked in 1890, the wines having been selected in Europe by Mr. Bemis, who is an acknowledged connoisseur, and whose opinion on all matters pertaining to choice wines has brought him the regard and friendship of notable people in both herriispheres. * # THE ART OF DRINKING WINE. To know how to drink wine belongs only to a cul- tivated taste; to know how to tempt guests to in- dulge in it with pleasure, belongs only to the host gifted with rare tact and artistic discrimination. A painting from the hand of a master must be placed in a favorable light, and with appropriate sur- roundings to set off its excellence; the most beauti- ful woman despises not the art of enhancing her charms by harmonious auxiliaries or by judicious contrasts. There is, in the same manner, an art and a science in drinking celebrated wines. After studying the menu, one can decide on a choice of wines, and on the order in which they are to be served. The following rules should be observed. With fish: White wines. With meats: Rich red wines At the conclusion of the repast: The oldest red wines. After the dessert: White, sweet and sparkling wines. In regard to the gradation of red wines, the rule is to commence with the newest and least celebrated. We shall see how these rules are followed by a generous liver: A few spoonfuls of soup, by their agreeable warmth, prepare the palate and stomach to fulfill their wholesome functions: a drop of golden Madeira or of old Sherry, gives these organsall the necessary activity. With the oysters, which are followed by the fish, come the fine Moselle and Rhine Wines, and the white Bordeaux or white Burgundy wines, half dry or sweet, far preferable to Champagne Frappe. When the fish and oysters are removed, so are these wines. When meat is on the table, the proper accompani- ment is the red Bordeaux wine, mellow and rich, clad in resplendent purple and with a perfumed bouquet. With Canvas Back, Mallard and Teal Duck, richer meats— roast beef, wild boar, roebuck— is served excellent, heady, rich red Burgundy. When midway in the feast, the guests have ar- rived at that satisfactory stage when the stomach, still docile, manifests no further desires ; when the taste prepared by a judicious gradation of sensa- tions, is susceptible of the most delicate impres- sions, the noble red Bordeaux wines make their tri- umphal entry, and the "maitre d'hotel" proudly announces their illustrious names- Chateau Mar- gaux! Chateau Lafite! Chateau Latour! Chat. Haul Brion ! Chat. Larose ! After these wines, one can enjoy sweet Sauternes and quaff a few glasses of foaming Champagne. CLARETS. It should be remembered that quality depends not on the name, however high sounding, but upon the vintage. From the experts in Bordeaux I (H. V. Bemis) learn the following facts regarding the different vin- tages since 1848 and 1858, which were perfect. 1864. A grand vintage, developing like '48 and '58. 1865. A very full bodied wine, but the high growths turned out hard and gradually deteriorated. 1866. Light thin wines of little character. 1867. A failure. 1868. Extremely full-bodied and expensive wines, but never ripened in bottle. 1869. At first considered inferior to 1868, but after- wards developed magnificent qualities. 1870. A vintage of immense body and color, very costly, but has never developed into very choice wines. 1871. Light in color, and therefore neglected; the few growths kept intact, became Wines of the greatest delicacy and bouquet. 1872. Thin in color and body: mediocre. 1873. Rough and hard wines without any maturing power. 1874. A very useful vintage; except for the super- iority of the 1875's, would certainly have been held in high esteem. 1875. One of the largest and best vintages on rec- ord. Ranks with the '48, '58 and '64's. 1876. A most indifferent vintage, which has deter- iorated much by age. 1877. A bountiful, clear vintage, only requiring a little more sun to make it equal to 1875's. 1878. Fine quality, distinguished by body rather than their elegance. 1879. A very inferior vintage, coarse and rough. 1880. A pleasing wine, but thin; some growths suit- able for dessert wines. 1881. A very full bodied vintage, but not as fine wine as 1887's. ^00^' Wines of different characteristics, but their r.J'' \ merits destroyed by the mildew which was 88c I prevalent throughout the Medoc during 1886: J those years. 1887. A stout and full bodied vintage, suitable for beverage purposes. 1888. A large yield of soft, full flavored wine, with a very promising future. 1889. A soft, high-class wine, 1890. A full-bodied wine, like 1887's. 1891. Light in alcohol, but rather elegant; a fair percentage of good useful wines. 1892. Full-bodied, but not considered as good as any year since 1886. 1893. The largest yield since 1875; remarkable both for quality and abundance, and must be pronounced magnificent. THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 8i WHOLESALE LIST. CHAMPAGNES. BRUT VINTAGE WINES. Per doz. Deutz & Gelderman, 1880 $65 00 Pommery & Greno, 1880 Go 00 Perrier Jouet, 1880 «5 00 Bertier A I'o., Carte Blanche, 1880 55 00 St. Maroeaux, 1884 88 00 Bertier & Co., Carte Blanche, 1881 88 OO Club Imperial, Brut, IHSl 38 00 Sec, 1887 32 50 " " Brut, 1880 32 ,50 Irroy & Co., Ernest. Carte d'Or, '80 32 00 Moet & Chandon, Dry Imperial, Cuvee 18. 1889 33 50 Perrier Jouet, Keserve Cuvee, 1880 32 00 Pommery & Greno, Extra Sec, 1880 34 00 St. JVlarceaux, Brut, 1889 34 00 Goulet. (ieorge & Co., Brut, 1889 29 50 St. Marceaux, Very Dry 32 25 G. H. Mumm & Co., Extra Dry 30 75 Moet & Chandon, Brut Imperial 33 50 White Seal 29 25 Heidsieck * Co., Dry Mouopole 30 00 Club Dry 30 00 Irroy & Co., Grand Extra Dry 30 50 Delbeck & Co.. Vin Brut 31 50 Veuve Clicquot, Yellow Label 32 25 Rulnart, Pere & Fils, Vin Brut 32 00 Piper Heidsieck, Sec 29 50 Brut 38 50 Pommery & Greno, Sec 32 25 Roederer, L., Brut 32 50 '■ Extra Dry 32 50 Goulet, George & Co.. Extra Dry 29 50 Perrier Jouet, Special 30 25 Brut 30 25 Deutz & Gelderman. Sec 29 50 BORDEAUX WINES. CLARBTS. •Chat Latour, 1809 46 00 tChat. Lafluj •• 45 00 •Chat. Laflte 1874 35 00 *Chat. Uaut Brlon, 1374 33 00 •Chat. Latour, 1876 39 00 •Chat. Mouton Rothschild, 1875 39 On •Chat. Rauzan " 31 50 §Chat. Leovllle Lascases " 40 00 §ChHt. Lafite " 45 00 tChat Palmer " 24 .50 tChat. Larose " 25 50 tChat. de France, 1877 18 75 tChat. La Lagune " 19 75 tMedoc, 1878 8 25 tChat Mouton d'Armailhacq " 11 75 tPontet Canet " 12 75 tChat. Uaut Bailly '• 24 00 *Chat. BeyeheTelle " 18 00 *I^ontet C»net " 15 00 5-t. Julien " 12 on §Chat Palmer Margaux '• 19 00 jchat Rausau Segla " 22 00 §(^hat. Leovllle Lascases " 23(0 'Pontet Cauet 1881 13 00 •Mouton liothschild " 21 50 *Chat. .Margaux " 24 50 §P0Dtet Cunet " 12 00 jchat. Larose " 1(> 00 K'hat. Mouton d'Armo " 14 00 §Cliat Moutoii Rothschild " 21 00 tChat. Montrose '• 18 00 §Si Estephe, 1884 9 50 t("h It. Wohlgemuth 1887 12 .50 *.Modoc " V 50 •St Kstephe " 8 00 •St ,iulien " 8 60 *Ch:it Smith Haul Laflte " 12 75 *rtauzau Segla " 19 50 §St. Julien " §Chat. Larose " IIGrand Vin de Larose " 5Jt Julien 1888 §Chat. Margaux iChat. Loubens §Medoc 1889 IIGrund Vin de Larose " SAUTERNBS. tChat. Sigalas Rabaud 1874 §Cliat. Kieussec " t'-'hat. Yquem " %Vin de Graves '• "Barsac " tSiiuternes " tGraves 1878 §Uaut Sauternes '• tUaut Barsac '• tChat. Sigalas Kabaud " §Chat. Yquem " tBarsHC 1881 5 Uaut Sauternes " tCtiat. Sigalas Rabaud " §Sauternes 1884 §Haut .Sauternes '• *tiraves " *Barsac " *Haut Barsac " *Sauteriies " tChat. Sitralas Rabaud " 5Chat. Latour Blanche " §Chat. Yquem " §Sauternes, 1886 5Haut Sauternes, 1887 BURGUNDIES. RED. iRomanee 1870 jMuslgny Vougeot " tChambertin •' iClos Vougeot " tCorton 1874 tKomanee " JMusigny Vougeot " tChambertin " icios de Vougeot " tVolnay 1878 tNuits iCorton " tChambertin, 1881 tMacon 1885 tMacon Vieux " tBeaujolais " tPommard " tRomanee " tBeaune ■• tCorton " tChambertin " WHITE. ttMeursault 1846 t+Montrachet 1858 ttMeursault •' 'i', .Montrachet, la Gulche "Etampe" " ItMontrachet 1864 ttMontrachet 1870 Montrachet. Guichard, Potheret & Fils " "IMonlrachet " t.Vleursault 1878 tMontrachet " ti-'liablls Moutonne •' ti'hablls 1881 tChablis Moutonne 1885 tMeursauit " tMontrachet " 9 00 21 00 18 00 8 25 26 00 12 00 7 00 13 00 32 00 31 50 30 50 14 00 13 50 12 00 9 25 13 50 11 60 25 50 24 50 10 50 12 25 27 50 9 50 12 00 8 50 9 00 9 75 9 50 23 50 22 50 28 50 8 50 9 50 40 00 40 00 4a 00 48 00 26 00 30 00 32 00 30 00 32 50 16 50 18 00 22 00 22 00 10 25 10 75 10 50 13 25 24 00 12 25 20 00 21 50 54 00 00 00 54 00 96 00 54 00 54 00 64 00 54 (0 24 50 28 50 18 50 13 50 15 60 20 00 24 50 Grand Vin Rouge " 27 00 Vieux Ceps " 27 00 Ron anee " 28 00 Cios- Vougeot " 32 00 RHINE AND MOSELLE WINES RHINE WINES. Hochheimer Dom-Dechaney, 1865 Rauenthaler Berg " Best Johannisberger Cabinet, 1868 Sielnberger Cabinet Schloss .lohannlsberger Cabi- net, Blue "^eal " Rauenthaler Beru' " Schloss Johantiisb'g'r Cabinet " Schloss .iDhanuisbgr Cabinet 1874 Rudesheimer i880 Marcobrunner " Geisenheimer Rothenberg " Hochheimer 1884 Ilattenhelraer " Rudesheimer " Marciiliruniier " Hochheimer Dom-Dechaney " Rauenthaler Wleshell Auslese " (ieisenhelmer 1876 Nierstelner Glock 1885 Bodenheimer 1886 Hochheimer 'J Hallgartener •' Liebfraumilch " Rauenthaler Berg " Marcobruntier " Sparkling Johannisb'ger, Brut" MOSELLE. Graacher 1886 Brauneberger " Sparkl g Scharzhofberger,Brut " Jo^ephshofer. Auslese 1874 Piesporter 1884 Scharzhofberger " Graacher Himmelrelch •' MADEIRA WINE. Malvasla Old Bual Serclal. Dry Imperial Reserve Old Madeira SHERRY WINE. •*Topaz •"Oloro.so •♦Amontillado »*P. M. T. L. A. Imperial Oloroso, 1860 Pemartin, Old Golden Pemartln, Leviathan, 1836 Queen's Sherry Pemartln (Red Label) PORT WINE. 65 00 55 00 84 00 125 00 160 00 72 00 115 00 28 50 12 00 16 00 24 50 10 50 12 26 12 50 lu 00 20 50 22 60 12 50 18 50 8 50 9 75 10 50 12 25 13 50 15 00 31 50 8 50 10 00 29 50 18 OO 10 00 11 00 14 50 18 00 24 00 30 00 3-' 00 120 00 15 00 18 00 21 00 16 00 22 00 36 00 120 00 36 00 30 00 §5London Dock 5501d Vintage §§Duke §§Fine Old White 55Choice Old Vintage, t+Superior Old White t+Superior Old Red 16 00 18 00 24 00 26 00 36 00 37 50 37 50 SPARKLING BURGUNDIES. Mousseux Volnay Oeil-de Perdrix 25 00 26 00 Commendador. many y'rs in bottles 21 00 * A de Luze * Fils. t Evariste Dupont&Co. 5 Boshamer. Leon & Co. il Versein & Minville. "T Bonon & Gustier. i F. Chauvenet. it Bouchard Pere et Fils. IFH Cafe Riche. Paris. §5 Sllva & Cosens +t Sauderaan's. ** Gonzalez Byass & Co. The reader will see from the foregoing that the grading of wine by vineyards from which they are derived does not altogether fix their value, but the year in which they were produced is the most im- portant factor, as no two successive years" yield wine of exactly like character, which will be noticed by a careful perusal of the list of vintage clarets. As a further illustration of this fact I will quote a few prices as found in a recent issue of Bonfort's Wine and Spirit Circular, -which I believe is looked upon as an authority all over the country. There is in the list of one Bordeaux firm a Pontet Canet (no age given) at |io per doz. quarts; further on Ponlet Canet, 1887, $12.75 per doz. quarts. There is also in the same list a Chat. Lafite grand vin 1888 at $20,25, and Chat. Lafite grand vin 1874 at S39 per doz., and the same wine of 1870 at $39 per doz By looking over the vintage list one can readily see why the wine of 1870 does not command a higher price, though four years longer in the cellar, than that of 1874. Again I find listed by a fir-ri in Wiesbaden, a Mar- cobrunner at $16 50 per doz. (no vintage given) ; the same wine of 1886 at J23.30 and the same of 1862 at §65: this demonstrates that the value of wine is reg- ulated by not only considering the vineyard where it is grown but also the year of its productiori. Wine connoiseurs always call for vintage wines because they are usually postpd on the quality of wines pro- duced in certain years. 82 THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. "WinPS of AmPT'iPa. duclng a large purple blackberry with a musty or foxy flavor, are derived the Catawba, Concord, Isa- bella. Horsford, Clinton and many others. There is a belief that an Asiatic hybrid between the yitis Regarding the raising and making of wine in this country, it has been found, after many efforts, that European vines will not thrive east of the Rocky Mountains ; consequently all grapes for wine making are native varieties found growing wild in various sections of the country, which have been improved by cultivation and hybridizing with foreign species. It is said that wine was made in this country by Spanish settlers in Florida as early as 1565 from a native grape found in that section. But the first attempt to establish a vineyard was in the Colony of Virginia, about the year 1620, with vines and skilled growers from Europe. For a while it seemed as if their labors would be rewarded with success Sub- Labrusca and the Vitis Rotundifolia was the original of Viiis Vinifera. Vitis Bicolor, the blue or winter grape found from New York to Wisconsin and southward; it has a sky blue color and is smaller than the Labrusca. Vitis Aestivalis, ''summer grape" also "chicken grape" found growing in Virginia and south to Texas; small pale blue berries. From it was de- rived the Delaware, the Cynthiana and Norton's Vir- ginia: the latter two are the most promising wine grapes east of the Rocky Mountains. Vitis Riparia or "river grape" found all through sequent failure of the undertaking caused the pro- ,, ,, , ^ , ^ , , ,^, . the north from Canada to Colorado. The vines moters to accuse the growers of ruining the vines; but in later trials it was made evident that European vines can not be cultivated, except on the Pacific slope. The prevalence of the phylloxera east of the Rockies caused every attempt to fail. from this species are known to be proof against the ravages of the phyolloxera. In view of this, large quantities have been shipped to France for stock on which to graft the finer wine producing varieties of the Vitis Vinifera. Wm. Penn made manv attempts in Pennsylvania; t-u^ m^^*i, A*io„t-„^ „• r- .■ a- j-ri- 1 ^ • The North Atlantic species I itis Cordifolta, known Swiss colonists tried in Kentucky and Indiana; the commonl> as the "frost," -chicken" or "possum- French in Tennessee, Ohio and Alabama. After g^^p^ ^^^^^^ ^^^^ New York to Iowa, south to Gulf failure in all of these very little was attempted until ^j Mexico; produces small blackish fruit, about 1826, when attention was called to the Cat- Vitis Rotundifolia or "Muscadine" of the South, awba vine in Virginia, which was derived from the known also as the "Bullace" grape, the source of Northern Fox grape ( Vitis Labrusca) one of the num- ^j^e Scuppernong,is the largest fruited species in this erous species of vines growing wild, the most im- country. It is found growing from Virginia to Texas portant of which is the Vitis Vinifera and grows in ^^j j^om Japan to the Himalayas, the old world from 55 degrees North to 40 degrees other distinct species in this country are found South latitude, and from which are derived the t^ be local, such as the Vitis Californica, known as European varieties: in realitj said to be a native of the "Vaumee" of the Indians, has large clusters; Turkey, Tartary, Greece, Persia and as far East as purple, rather pleasant fruit, the Himalayas. There are instances in which the yuis Caudicaus is the Mustang grape of Texas vine has attained trunks nearly three feet in thick- yms Arizonica, the canon grape of Arizona, ness in warm climate. In this country the condi F//w Car?*a^«, the grape found in West Indies and tions are not so favorable except in California. Eastern Mexico; also known as water withe. While many varieties are obtained from the pro- ynis Blaucon of the Sierra Madres in Mexico and pagation from seeds, the original varieties can only Central America, and many others which it will be perpetuated by grafting, cuttings, layers, or in- hardly be of interest to mention. oculation. Experiments have been made with all the forego- Wild species are most abundant in this country, ing species by hybridizing, with a view of thereby the greatest numt)er being in Texas; but the Atlan- obtaining vines suitable for wine making and for tic States are said to have more useful ones than table grapes, with good results in many Instances. any other part of the world, four of the eight varie- Especially in the past fifteen years has great progress ties found in that section having given rise to valu- been made in discovering grapes which prove de- able vines. sirable for both purposes. I will mention some of From the Vitis Labrusca, above referred to, which the most productive varieties suitable for wine mak- was found growing along the New England coast jno- and for table use. from Maine through the Atlantic states to Tennes- From THE LABRUSCA, we have: see, and from Japan to the Himalayas in Asia, pro- THE CATAWBA: an abundant and reliable THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 83 bearer; fruit of medium size, round and of a dark black fruit, ripens quite late and is therefore de- purple color; both good for wine making and a pop- sirable for market. It ships well, uiar table grape; keeps well. When well packed WILLIE: large showy fruit, black, with thick they will keep until the latter part of January. skin; an excellent grape for wine making. THE CONCORD: large well packed bunches of From VITIS AESTIVALIS: bluish black fruit, very extensively used for the The NORTON'S VIRGINIA: large bunches of table they are today our most delicious grape for compact fruit; small blueish black berries which eating. are very sweet and pleasant; ripen quite late but TheCOLRAIN. very sweet and light green with adhere well to the stem ; yield abundantly, delicate bloom when ripe; has but one seed; not CYNTHIANA: like Norton's Virginia both in much known as a table grape but considered a good appearance and productiveness, but ripen a little wine maker. earlier. The DIAMOND, a large white grape about the DELAWARE: small compact bunches of reddish size of the Concord very juicy and free from foxi purple fruit; berries rather small but are a most ness. delicious table grape; they keep and ship well. The EATON . like the Concord but less sweet and OZARK: large compact bunches \vith good sized not so foxy. black berries of rich taste; considered an excellent EARLY VICTOR: large white and juicy, fine wine and table grape; ripens quite late and keeps eating grape and ripens quite early. well. The GREEN MOUNTAIN: found in the Green From ROTUNDIFOLIA: Mountains of Vermont. Said to more nearly re- The SCUPPERNONG; this vine cannot be sue semble the Vinifera species than any other native cessfully grown north of 35 degrees parallel of lati variety. It bears medium sized fruit, well filled tude. I am told that it is most productive when bunches, greenish white when ripe; is very early, trained as for an arbor, and indeed it is the only rather sweet and tender and free from foxiness. vvay that I have seen it grow, each vine covering The HAYES: Medium sized, full bunches, green- some fifty square yards over wooden frame work, ish white when ripe, of fine flavor; good for the It has numerous small branches, seldom having more t^ble. than five large greenish white berries to a bunch. HORSFORD. like the Concord, but ripens a little When ripe they spread large sheets of cloth or can- earlier, yjs, while with long poles the vines are lightly beaten The JUMBO, a large blueish black variety, bear- from above, which causes the ripe berries to drop ing heavy bunches, being earlier than the Concord; into the sheets; afterwards the berries are run pleasant eating and is therefore very popular in the through a kind of fan— a machine which blows away New York market. all leaves and dead wood found plentifully mixed The KEYSTONE; large bunches and compact with the berries by the peculiar process of gather- berries about the size and color of Concord, but ing, and which must be removed before pressing, skin more tough and keeps much better. It is said While these grapes are of a real pleasant taste and in cool temperature it will keep until latter part of make good wine they cannot be used for the table February. because of the small bunches. The MILLS, a very large compact bunch, round Other hybrid vines which are well known in some large black berry with blueish bloom; fruit firm and localities are: juicy, adheres well to the stem, ripens later than MOORE'S EARLY: like the Concord, but several Concord and keeps well. weeks earlier. NIAGARA: good sized compact bunches, fruit LADY GRAPE: white, a little larger than the medium sized, white, rather sweet, pleasant flavor; Concord and ripens about ten days earlier. It has good for the table but does not keep well. a rich sweet taste; is a good table grape. The OSWEGO: large black tender fruit: keeps POCKLINGTON: a very large white grape; it is and looks better than the Concord. hardy, a fairly good table fruit and ships well. The ULSTER PROLIFIC: medium sized bunches EMPIRE STATE: very much favored in the East, with fruit somewhat smaller than Concord; very It has large handsome bunch, berries of medium size, sweet; good table grape and keeps well. white, with a rich sweet taste: ships well. The VFRGLNNES: medium sized bunch, large There are a great many other varieties, some of 84 THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. them old and well known : to mention them all would ber of others have their vineyards, about ten thous- require too much space and be of but little interest, and acres are devoted to the raising of grapes. The * * * varieties grown are Concord, Catawba, Delaware, The method of wine making in this country is ex- Isabella, Niagara, Norton's, Moore's Diamond, Ionia, actly as in France and Germany for dry, still and Diana and a number of others. The Concord and sparkling wines ; and the Spanish system is adopted Catawba form the bulk of the market or table grapes, in making such wines as resemble sherry and A large per cent, of the finer varieties form the port, and for liqueur wines. basis for the champagne couvee. Two hundred In many instances the name under which a native thousand gallons, or about one million bottles, are wine is placed on the market is the same as the vines annually made into sparkling wine ; the balance of fromiwhich the same has been produced, as Catawba, the grapes are made into still wines which are : Norton's Virginia, Concord, Scuppernong, etc.; but Catawba, white, dry more often they are sold under a foreign label of Catawba, rose tint, sweet some wine to which it may bear a slight resemblance Concord, red, sweet like port as St. Julienne, Medoc, Pontet Canet, Burgundy, Sherry, white, dry and sweet Derkheimer, Port, Sherry, etc. '^^^ CHAUTAUQUA grape belt is a strip of land It does seem that if any wine made in this country '" ^^e extreme Northwestern part of the state, near isof a quality which merits it being sold as similar Lake Erie; in this section grapes, mostly Concord, to some foreign growth, it is surely worthy of having are raised for the market; and it is said that the a name of its own, original with the surroundings Concord obtains a richer flavor in the Chautauqua where it is produced. grape belt than anywhere else in the country. The » annual production amounts to from 40,000 to 50,000 States where wine is extensively made are: New *°"'' ^^^y having shipped as many as 3, 500 car loads York, Ohio, Indiana, Michigan, Illinois, Virginia, '" °"e season. North and South Carolina, Tennessee, Arkansas Grapes are extensively raised in the HUDSON and Missouri. Of these New York State has prob- RIVER VALLEY, consisting of such varieties as ably made the greatest progress within the past Concord, Catawba, Empire State, Red Ulster, Elvira, twenty years. Mr. Bauder of the Pleasant Valley Niagara, Delaware and others, nearly all of which Wine Company of Rheims Station, New York, says: are shipped to market. "The advance in American wines during the last The next state of importance is OHIO, along the twenty years has been marvelous. A number of new coast of Lake Erie, including several islands. Var- varieties of grapes have been developed and old ieties finding most favor are the Lady Grape, Martha, varieties discarded. The great complaint against Worden (which is like the Concord), the Catawba, American wines, on account of what they call foxi- Moore's Early, Lady Washington, Pocklington, Del- ness, has largely disappeared, from the fact that, aware. Concord and others. as we have improved the vine and the soil becoming White and red dry wine and sparkling wine are older, much of the roughness is eliminated ; and I extensively made. A large per cent, of Catawba venture the assertion that when our vineyards have grown are made into sparkling wine in Sandusky, become as old in cultivation as those in France our Cincinnati and St, Louis, Mo. The dry Catawba, grapes will be equally as good and perhaps some of "^ade in NORTHERN OHIO and adjacent islands them better." '" Lake Erie, is ike best tvhite wine produced in this =f, * ^ country, comparing very favorably with the better Continuing Mr. Bauder says: "Our sparkling classof Rhine wines. The black grapes are extensive- wines are in all essential things a well made Ameri- ly made into clarets and sweet wines, the latter sold can champagne; and I venture the assertion that, as native port. had we started to make champagne two hundred MISSOURI: The principal sections of this state years ago our wine would enjoy the preference which where vineyards are planted for wine making are that of France does today. Herman, Augusta, Blufton, Booneville, on the banks "Production and sales have increased fivefold in of the Missouri River, and of late years grapes are the past twenty years and we find American wines beginning to be extensively grown in the south and growing more in demand every year." southwestern parts of the state. In CENTRAL NEW YORK, where the Pleasant Until about twenty years ago Concord and Cataw Valley Wine Co., The Urbana Wine Co., and a num- ba were among favored vines and were largely THE PRACTICAL planted in many vineyards, but it was found that they weie not suited to that locality, and while they are still represented more resistant vines have in most places taken their places. Norton's Virginia, Cynthiana, Delaware, Herbemont, (of large compact bunches having small deep purple berries with a delicious sweet taste), and a large number of hybrids derived from Texas and native Missouri vines com- pose the main stock. Most of the grapes are used for wine making, of which a great deal is made, and some cf which is of excellent quality, especially that made from the Norton and Cynthiana, resembling in every respect a first rate Red Burgundy, a sample of the latter having been exhibited at the World's Fair, Chicago, under the name of Black Rose and received first prize among American red wines. Wines of Missouri production are: Red Concord (claret) dry White " Catawba Rose " sweet White Herbemont. dry like Mauzanilla " Delaware, dry like Rhine wine Red Norton's \ {Black Rose) Cynthiana f dry like Burgundy. Also wines resembling port and sherry. Sparkling wines are made in Herman and in St. Louis, the latter, from the Catawba grown in Ohio, known as Cook's Imperial. In NORTH CAROLINA, VIRGINIA, TENNES- SEE and ARKANSAS a very pleasant white wine is made from the Scuppernong, which has some re- semblance to dry Catawba. In MISSISSIPPI, TEX- AS, KANSAS, MICHIGAN, INDIANA and ILLI- NOIS some grapes are raised for the market. NEW MEXICO also raises grapes for the market. In this territory as well as in parts of Arizona, European vines are successfully grown. CALIFORNIA: In this state we find that the European vine is grown successfully and but few American vines are planted. Over two hundred >ears ago the vine was planted by Spanish monks in the section where now ars Los Angeles and San Diego. The varieties brought over by them are still cultivated in old Mission Valley and country surrounding San Diego, where they are known as Mission grapes. Of late years, however, the phylloxera has been very destructive, and so far the only remedy has been to graft the European varieties on native or resistant stocks. The vines most favored for wine making are: HOTEL STEWARD. 85 For RED WINE: "Cabernet Sauvignon" or "Cabernet," small black berries and bunches, juicy and sweet; the wine from it being very robust is often used for blending and irrsproving milder varieties. "Cabernet Franc" very much resembling the Sau- vignon, but inferior. "Beclan" small clusters but compact ; berry small_ black, thick skinned, makes a very choice red wine. "Valdepenas," Spanish, makes a fine full-bodied claret of a high character. "Petit Syrah," large clusters, berries of medium size, makes a choice red wine. They have also "The Gamay," The Pinot Noir,'' and many others, including "The Zinfandel." The latter is by far the most productive and is therefore planted to a very great extent in most of the vine- yards. When properly handled it will make one of the most desirable red wines grown in this country. For WHITE WINE. "The Melon Blanc," the same from which white Burgundy is made in France. •■ "Cadillac." small white berry of medium bunches, very sweet; its high flavor makes it valuable for blending. "Semillion," the same as from which Haut Sau- terne and Chat Yquem are made of in France. "Sauvignon Blanc," similar to the above. "Riesling," same as fro'Ti which fine Rhine wines are made. "Savignon Verte," "Orleans Riesling." "Verte Longue," "Folle Blanche," and many others, includ- ing some of the most successfully grown grapes from all parts of the wine growing sections of Europe. For SHERRY: "The Palomina" from Spain is most popular; it is very prolific, makes a fine dry wine of good flavor. "Formit," same as from which fine Hungarian white wines are made. "Sultana," a delicate white seedless grape from which also the seedless raisins are produced. Other white varieties, some of which are used in making sweet wines, are the "Clairette Blanche," "Muscat de Frontignan," "White Elben," also some varieties of American origin. The foregoing is only a partial list of wine produc- ing vines. I mentioned the varieties planted for that purpose only. While these would also be the best for the market they will not stand shipping. For this purpose different kinds are grown which are firmer and can be sent to most any part of the world. I have no doubt but that nearly every hotel man in the country knows some if not all of these 86 THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. varieties, as at certain times of the year one can The following are some of th.e favored products: find them for sale by the fruit dealers. White Aliso, dry like Sauterne The most favored of these is the "Tokay," it has " Gutedel, dry like Rhine wine very large bunches of pale red color, large oblong " Riesling, " berries, quite firm, and is altogether of an attractive " Pineau Blanc, dry like Burgundy appearance. " " Gris " "Black Cornuchon," has large bunches, the berries " Cresta Blanca " " Sauterne large, oblong, blueish black with lighter spots, ripens Red Pineau Noir " " Burgundy quite late. " Zinfandel " " Bordeaux "Emperor," has long loose bunches, large oblong " Mataro " " " berries of purple black color, ripens very late. " Barbera " " Asti "White Cornichon," large loose clusters with ob- " Claret " " Bordeaux long yellow berries, ripens late. and white, rose colored and red sweet wines as "Malaga," large bunches, berries long, oval, yel- before mentioned. low, ripens early. In most instances the wine is given the name of "Black Ferbara," medium sized cluster, berry the vine from which it is derived, but a great deal round, black with a blue bloom. is also sold under foreign labels, or as the type of "The Sultana," described above, "The Black the same like Damascus," "The Black Morocco," and "Muscat," Medoc Type the latter a good shipping grape is also used in mak- St. Julian Type ing Sweet Muscat and Angelica wine, and is one of St. Estephe Type the best raisin grapes; it has long loose clusters Typo Chianti, etc. and large yellow berries, is very sweet and has a Before the formation of the California wine asso- prominent flavor. ciation wines of that state were sold at prices which The principal wine producing districts of this were ruinous to the growers, but now this is regu- stateare: lated by concerted action of the association. How- In the southern part, Los Angeles, San Bernardino ever, the prices of good native wines are still low and San Diego, where large quantities of sweet or enough that every family could afford to have a glass liqueur wines are made, which appear in the market of ihis health giving beverage with their dinner, as Angelica, Muscatel, Tokay, Sherry, Port, Madeira Most American wines are fully matured when two etc. The dry wines made in this district are too years old and very few of them will improve any heavy and contain too much alcohol. The sweet more after being four to five years old. wines are of a superior quality and in some respects * * * resemble the original wine after which they are MEXICO: Some three hundred years ago the named. vine was brought from Europe into Mexico and there Further North in the Napa and Sonoma valleys grown successfully; but the industry received no are the largest vineyards in the state, the climate attention, and very little wine was made. Of late being more moist and cooler. Dry wine, both- red years, however, grape growing has received some and white are made. St. Helena, Santa Rosa, encouragement under patronage of the government. Cloverdale and Heraldsburg are the shipping * '' * centers. SOUTH AMERICA: In Argentina a great deal The system of wine making in California, while of wine is made from European vines and is said to conducted on a large scale, is the same as the most tie of very good quality; also Chili, Peru, Uruguay approved methods in France, and the quality in most and Brazil in the Southern part some wine is made instances is of a high standard, surely much better from European vines which grow in the temper- than the cheaper imported varieties from Europe. ate sections of South America successfully. THE PRACTICAL HO lEL STEWARD. 87 ALCOHOL. LITTLE CHAMPAGNE, second class. Alcohol is a product derived from fruits, grain ^ES BORDERIES OU PREMIERE BOIS, for and vegetables which contain glucose. The sugar ^""'" class. is converted into alcohol by fermentation and then LES DEUXIEMES OU BOUS BOIS, fourth extracted by distillation. class, and All fruits in a ripe state are crushed, and when TROISIEME BON BOIS, fifth class, placed in a mild temperature will ferment without The town of Cognac is tli^^ most central shipping the assistance of any foreign substance. After the point, where also the prices are regulated once a fermentation is completed, all sugar contained in month. such fruit has changed to alcohol and is ready for When brandy is first made it is almost without the still. The product obtained by passing through color and is qi te disagreeable to taste; but with the still once is BRANDY, but by redistilling the age it becomes darker, also assuming a sweetish and same over again several times PURP' ALCOHOL more pleasant taste. will result. When grain or vegetables, such as rye. The strength of brandy is from 106 to 130 degrees corn, barley, potatoes, beets, etc., are to be used, proof, or from 53 to 65 per cent, absolute, the same must be first macerated and fermentation Almost 3very large vineyard in this country, as induced by the addition of yeast. well as in Europe, has a distillery connected with it Alcohol forms the active or intoxicating part in for the purpose of converting to brandy such wines all fermented beverages. When pure it should reg- as will not answer for the market; also to distill the ister 200 degrees, but it is very difficult to produce lees taken from the wine after racking, it perfectly anhydrous or absolute. Most alcohol we buy will register about 190 degrees or 95 per OT^ER FRUIT BRANDIES. cent. pure. Other fruit brandies are: Until the eleventh century, alcohol was not known KIRSCHWASSER, made from cherries, both wild in Europe. It is said that the Arabs were the first and cultivated. who knew the art of extracting it; and it was not PLUM BRANDY. (Zwetschkenwasser), from until the early part of the eighteenth century that a prunes; made principally in Germany, Hungaria Fiencli professor first found the way of making and Roumania. alcohol. It was not long afterward that it became CIDER BRANDY (apple brandy) and the base of medicines and of liquors for the table. PEAR BRANDY, made principally in Normandy Since then the popularity of the same has increased RUM and with the pace of civilization. It is useful in many TAFIA is made from sugar cane in the West ways, and while its use is often abused, yet such Indies. cases are insignificant compared with the many ARRACK is from sugar cane in the East Indies, ways in which it has proven beneficial. MARASCHINO, from cherries. Made in Zara. GOLDWASSER, from grains, in Dantzig. BRANDY (Cognac). whiskey is from rye, corn, oats and barley Brandy (Cognac) is a distillation from wine. By Made in Scotland. Ireland. United States and Can- far the larger portion is being made in France, ada. where, in the province of Charente, vast vineyards RAKIA, from grapes perfumed. Made in Hun- are cultivated, the product of which is converted garia. into cognac. The valuation placed on wine in this SCHIEDAM SCHNAPPS, (Gin), made from grains district is according to the quantity of brandy that flavored with juniper berries. Made in Holland. can be made out of it; in good years, for instance, BRANDY, from beets; made in Northern Europe about five bottles of wine will make one of brandy; BRANDY is also made from lees of potatoes in in bad years it will take double the quantity. Dis- Northern Europe. tilling is begun immediately after fermentation is AZAKA, ARZA, ARKA, made from mare's milk, complete, and by the beginning of March the brandy 'f Tartary. is all made. A BR.ANDY is made from the juice of the agave Brandy or eau-de-vie, as it is commonly called in i" Mexico and South America. France, is divided into five classes, namely : PEACH BRANDY, made from ripe peaches in FINE CHAMPAGNE is the best. the United States. 3E THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. adding cardamom seeds and socctrine aloes. LIQUEURS. WHITE CHARTREUSE is made from cinnamon, Liqueurs and cordials are made b)' taking various mace, cloves, nutmegs, tonka bean, lemon-balm- aromatic herbs of which they may be composed, re- hyssop, gcnepi, angelica roots and seeds, cardamom, duce the same to fine particles, and are then macer- and sweet flag. ated with sugar, alcohol and water for several days BENEDICTINE is from cloves, nutmegs, cinna- untii thoroughly digested, then distilled and recti- mon, lemon-balm, peppermint, angelica roots, sweet, fied. The product is then treated with syrup and flag, and genepi. proof spirits, also the proper coloring. The usual TRAPPIS TINE is from absinth, angelica, mint, strength of cordials is about 120 degrees proof, or cordamom, lemon, myrrh, sweet flag, cinnamon, 60 per cent, pure alcohol. cloves and mace. ABSINTHE is made from dried absinthe (worm- EAU DE VIE DANTZIG is from cumin seed, car- wood), dried hyssop, balm mint, green anise, Chi- away seed, celery seed, green anise, cloves and nese anise, fennel and coriander seeds. This cordial cinnamon. is made in several localities in France and Switzer- KUMMEL is from cumin seeds, coriander and land, and in each place it is made differently. In orange peel. Switzerland is where it was first produced. CREME DE MEN'THE is from peppermint-balm, CREAM OF ANGELICA is made from angelica sage, cinnamon, ginger, and orris root, roots, angelica seeds, fennel, and coriander. MARASCHINO is from ripe, wild cherries, rasp- ANISETTE is made from green anise, star anise, berries and cherry leaves, coriander, fennel, and hyson tea. CURACAO is from skins of oranges, cinnamon CREME DE MOK.A is made from coffee and bitter and mace, almonds. VERMOUTH is made from absinth, gentian, an- PARFAIT AMOUR, grated skins of cediats, gelica root, holy thistle, calamus, nutmegs, sliced grated skins of lemons and cloves. fresh oranges, cinnamon, germander, elecampane, CHARTREUSE GFiEEN is made from cinnamon, and sweet wine of Picopaul. mace, lemon balm, dried hyssop flower tops, pepper- There are several varieties of VERMOUTH, each mint, thyme, costmary, arnica flowers, genepi, and of which contain some different ingredients. The angelica roots. above are contained in the vermouth of Turin CHARTREUSE YELLOW. Similar to above, (Italian). _____^__ r % WHITEWASH. _ _ . ^ How to prepare a lime whitezvash for wood, brick or stone: Slack one bushel of lime with boiling water, keep How to make your own soft soap tor scriibbinp: j j ■ ..1 *u *-„-, *u,„,,„u ^ -^ ■' ' J ■s covered during the process, then strain through a Have a tank made of No. 18 galvanized iron that will hold about two hundred gallons. Place in the sieve and add One peck salt dissolved in warm water. bottom a coil of half inch steam pipe, perforated so ^, . r 1 j- 1 j- u -i- ^ ^ *^ Three pounds of glue dissolved in boiling water. that the live steam will be evenly distributed. Take eighteen pounds of caustic soda, dissolve. Two pounds of Spanish whiting. Six pounds rice flour boiled to a thin paste. then add sixty-five pounds of grease and about ^ j 1. • ui • .^ j c » -.u J ^ => One pound ultramarine blue, moistened first with fifteen to twenty gallons of water, let boil slowly ^ ,.^^,^ ^^,^^^^ g^.^ ^^„ ^^^^^ ^^^.^^ ^,j ^^^ ^^^^^ until all the grease is consumed, then add hot ingredients to the lime., then leave the mixture water slowly until tank is full. .^^^^ ^ j^^ ^^^.^ Should be heated before applying. I HE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. A System of Wine Room Bookkeeping. 89 My wine room books consist of three, viz: one Invoice or Receiving Book, one Issue Book and one Stock Book THE INVOICE OR RECEIVING BOOK. The Invoice Book is an ordinary Journal into which all bills are copied after receiving the goods. It is just such a book as is kept in any store for the same purpose, like the following illustration; RECEIVING BOOK. March, iSgg 16 W. A. Thomas & Sons Co. I bbl. Old Jordan, spring 1891. 36.5 gallon at §1.80 ?5.oo $65.00 David Nicholson 5 cases Mumm's - 3 " 2 " Ruinart 2 " Cliquot Brut 19 Steinwender & Sellned 1 cask C and C ginger ale .S16 50 2 cases King Wm. Scotch whisky 42.00 quarts $30 I150 00 pints 32 9600 quarts 30 6000 33 66 00 S372.00 S58.50 THE BAR ISSUE BOOK. (See Illustration on opposite page.) For the Issue Book I take a blank record and rule in vertical lines, leaving a space of 2)^ inches at the margins in which to write the names of the wines as issued. The first narrow space (next to the names) * |I use to place the abbreviations of quantities, as qt. ((for quart, pt. for pint, etc. The spaces following ♦ere for recording the quantities issued on various dates as shown at the head of the columns. To the right of the page is: first, a narrow column for the total quantities issued; and, last, the column for the value, which is extended at the end of the month as shown in the illustration at top of next page. THE STOCK BOOK. (See illustration on opposite page.) The most important book is the one for Stock. For this I also use a plain record, and rule in ver- tical lines, using the entire folio, on which stock is carried for five months without rewriting. First, I leave a space in which I write the names of all wines and liqueurs carried in stock, classified. Next column "a" is to place the cost price per single gallon or bottle, which answers for the folio Column "b" is the actual stock as counted on the last day of the month. In column "c" I carry the total amount of what was bought during the month (from the Invoice or Receiving book) ; for instance, I bought 5 cases, quarts, of G. H. Mumm's ; 3 cases, pints, of the same and so on. In column "d" are carried the total issues (as taken from the Issue Book), as will be seen by com- paring: I issued 36 quarts Mumm's, 40 pints of the same, 3 pints Cook's, etc. After having entered all the Goods Received in column "c" and entered all the Issues in column "d", I add the amounts of Stock on Hand in column "b" to the Total Amount Received in column "c" and from the total of the two I deduct the Amount Issued in column "d" the remainder gives me the Balance (column "e"), which still ought to be in stock on the day when actual count is taken (for column "b") in April. Thus you will see that of Mumm's wine there was in stock March ist 18 quarts; received 60 quarts; issued during the month 36 quarts; this latter deducted from 78 quarts (the total of column "b" and "c") leaves a balance of 42 in stock, which, at $2.70 per quart, amounts to $113.40, The stock in column "b" is a check on the stock in column "e" and at the same time starts the new month. While this may seem difficult it is a very satis- factory system, one where errors can be quickly found, since both columns, "e" of March and "b" of April, ought both be exactly the same : as will be noticed in comparing Pommery quarts : note the "*" , there are only 10 quarts in stock, but the Balance column shows 11. There is one short, to be ac- counted for. THE ARLINGTON Wine Room Issues to Bar 1900 Gals BOTTLES Qts Pts pts 90 THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD March ISSUES TO BAR. DATE Am't I 3 5 9 12 14 17 ao 21 Total Value Mumm's Ot. 12 6 6 12 36 ?97 1 20 <• Pt. 12 6 6 6 6 4 40 .S7 20 Ruinart Ot. 6 3 6 6 3 2 6 32 88 Cooks Qt. Pt. I 6 I 6 I 3 16 90 St. Julian Qt. Pt. 3 2 3 3 5 2 2 55 50 King Wm. Scotch Ot. I I I I I 5 8 75 J. E. Pepper Gal. .^ 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 24 5b 40 Ciiquot Pt. 2 3 2 7 10 22 Pommery Ot. 3 3 8 49 • • Pt. 2 2 2 4 2 12 18 00 Old Jordan Gal. 2 2 1 2 6 12 90 Belle Nelson Ot. I I I us Ciiquot Ot. 2 6 2 4 1 15 '1^ 3w Total issues $410 56 WINE ROOM STOCK BOOK . MARCH APRIL f, "U D — y 01 1899 Cost price 0) t« Value '0 3 S Value yQ a: in -y^ Gi t/) CHAMPAGNES Mumm's qt. 2 70 18 60 36 42 113 40 42 pts. I 43 44 72 40 7-, 108 68 76 Ruinart qt 2 IS 12 24 32 4 II 00 4 pts. I 48 6 6 Clicquot qt. 2 82 14 36 15 35 98 70 35 pts I 46 27 7 20 29 20 20 Pommery Sec qt. 2 80 14 3 1 1 31 13 iO* pts. I 50 32 12 20 30 CO 20 Cooks qt. I 16 10 I 9 10 44 9 pts. 65 6 3 3 I Q5 3 WINES, BORDEAUX, RED Chat. Lafitte qt. 2 05 22 22 45 10 22 pts. I 15 36 36 4f 40 36 St. Julian qt 85 21 3 38 15 30 18 pts 50 18 5 13 6 50 13 WHISKEYS Belle of Nelson qt. I 05 13 I 12 I 2 60 12 McGibbens qt 2 00 14 14 28 00 14 Cabinet gal. 3 60 .S4 5 A 194 40 54 J. E. Pepper gal 2 3S 122 24 q8 230 30 98 Old Jordan gal. 2 15 ' 32 36.5 6 62K 134 38 62I-2 King Wm. qt I a 75 ^ 24 c 5 d 19 33 / 25 19 b Total ti.175 73 INDEX. Africa, wines of. 78 A la carte and table d'hote, 35 Alcohol. 87 American wines. 83 Arrangement of the dinner bill of fare, 33 Assistant steward, duties of, 3 Australia, wines of. 79 Austri 1. wines of. 72 Baker ami pastry cook. 3 Bakery and pastry, list of utensils for 2.iO-raom and 40-room hotels, 6 Banquets. 45: book. 17, 19 Banquet menu, dissecting cost of, 19 Banquet table, ideas in setting, 47 (and plate IV) Bar, issues to, 89; requisition on wine room. 89 Barr'^ls and bottles, cleaning. fiS BILLS OK FAliK. 27: arrangement of. for the dinner. 38: breakfast, arrange- ment of (specimens) 29; breakfast, din- ner and supper S|)tfCimens for 40 room country bote'. 11; breakfast dinner and supper specimens for lUU-room $2 a day hotel. 12; breiikfast. lunch and din- ner specimens of tirst class 2llO-r()Om city hotel, 12: breakfast, luncheon and dinner specimens of big resort hotel, 14; dinner (specimens ) 34: French out of place on, in American 29; luncheon ( specimens) 32: making (.see also men- us) 2': supper, arranging the. 41; strive for variety in. H9; to be even in quality (Illustrations) 2S Blendina (13 Book, banquet. 17 and 19; breakage and Unes 10; prices, refeience for the pock- et. IS: stock on liand, the. IT: wine room stock. 89; storeroom receiving and iss 1e.S. 15 Bookkeeping, storeroom. 15 Bordeaux wines. ti7 Bottles and bairels. cleaning, t)3 Bouillon, to serve, 57 Brandy. 87 BreakaL'e and fines book, 10 Breakfast bill of fare, arrangement of (specimens) 29 Buffet luncheons 44 Burgundy wines. (iS Butter, buying. 24; serving the. 4 BUYlX(i. 22: aiva' tages of dealing with rela de house 25; talk with chef be- fore going to market. 2H Canaries wines of the. 7(i Carving. .M: and service, steward super- intend the. 9 Catering, party, 58 Champ:igne. 05 Cheap help, no profit in, 10 Chicken, to carve. 5(i Claras, buying, 23; or shell oysters, to serve. 57 Clarets. SO Cleaning barrels and bottles, ('i3 Cotfee and tea making, 4; buying. 25 Cf^oks. the. 3 Cotes du Rhone wines, ffl Cream and milk, serving the. 4 Daily report of storeroom issues, 17 Decisions, impartiality in. 10 Dining room, nurses and children's and officers'. 5 Dinner bills of fare, arrangement of, 39; (Specimens) 34 Dish pantry, the. 4 Dishes, the kinds to use in serving, 57 Dish heaters, daily inspection of. 8 Dishwashing, satisfactory method of. 4 Duck, to carve tame. 5(i; mallard, etc., 57 Egg boiler, daily inspection of, 8 Entrees, to serve. 57 Feeding tie help. 5 Fines and hreikaee book. 10 Fish, buying. 23: to serve, 57 France, wines of, 64, 67 Fruit, buying, 24; pantry, 3; brandies, 87 Game, buying, 24; dressed, preservation of. 2'; Garnishing, 57 Germany, wines of, 70 Goose, to carve. .5(> (irapes varieties.cultivated in America. 82 (Jrcece. wines of, 77 Groceries, buying, 25 Ham, to carve, 5ij llelp, feeding the, 2 and 5; managing, 7; meal hoars, 5; no proUt in cheap help, 10; organizing, governing and feeding the, 2; quality of. 10: rules for govern- ment of. 8; waiters for the, 5 Hors d'oeuvres. to seive, 57 H. M M. B. A. menus, 49 Ilungaria, wines of. 73 Ice bo.x. the store room. 5 Ideas in setting a banquet table, 47 (also illustration plate IV) Impartiality in decisions, 10 Into-xicauts. as to 9 Inventory, storeroom monthly. 5 Issue book, storeroom, 15; wine room to bar, 89 Italy, wines of. 7(5 Kitchen and kttchen basement Ideal (il- lustration plates I and ID Kitchen list of utensils, f or 250-room and 40 room hotels, li Labor market to be considered, 8 Leg of mu ton, lamb, veal, to carve, 55 Liqueurs. 88 Loins of beef, buying and cutting up to advantage. 23 Luncheon bills of fare (specimens) 32; buffet, 44 Madeira, wines of. 7(i Mallard duck and other wild fowl, to carve 57 Managing help, 7 Market, to. 23: list of perishable foods. 21 ME.\TS. buying, 23; to serve, 57; preser- vation of, 26 MENU, the arrangement of 48: for ban- quet, dissecting cost of, 19: for 450 at 50 cents a plate. 12; the H. M. M. B. A. banquets, 49; use and abuse of the word. '29; for wedding, 59 Mexican wine-". S(i Milk and cream, serving the, 4 Morals must be looked after, 9 Mutton, buying and cutting up to advan- tage. 23 Nurses and children's dining room. 5 Officer^*' dining room. 5 Urganizatinn of 40- room country hotel. 10; of a lOO-room »2 ad:iy hotel, 11 : of 200-room city hotel of the first class, 12; of fashioniible summer hotel of 500 rooms. 13 Organizing a crew for first class hotel, 7 Oysters in shell, buying 23 Pantry, economy in the. 4; list of uten- sils for 2:')0 room and 40-room hotels. 6 Party catering, oS I'astry cooks and bakers, 3: utensils, 6 Perishable foods, steward's market list of 21 Persia, wines of. 78 Portugal, wines of. 75 Poultry, buying. 24 Preservation of meats, 2o; of dressed game, 2(i Prices reference book. 18 Punch, the place for on the billof fare.38 Receiving book, sloreioora, 15; wine room. 89 Report, steward's weekly (illustration plate III) Reprimands, 9 Requisition blanks on market room and store room. 20 Requisition from bar on wine room, 89 Ribs, buying and cutting up to advan- tage, 2.i Roast beef, to carve. 55; to serve, 57 Roast pig. to carve. o(! Roumania. wines of. 78 Rules for government of help. 8 Rules for help must be enforced, 8 Russia, wines of. 78 Saddle of mutton, to carve, 55 Salads, to serve. 57 Scrap table, saving at the, 5 Servants' halls, the. 5 Serving what dishes to use in. 57 Shell oysters or clams, to serve, 57 Shrinkage, how to avoid. 18 Shoulder or mutton or lamb, to carve, 56 Signs, warning, 10 Silver pantry, the. 4 Soft soaii for scrubbing, to make, 88 South American wines. 86 South of France wlnee, 69 Spain, wines of, 74 Sparkling wines. 66 Statement, itemized, of daily issues (il- lustration plate III) STEWARD in the storeroom, 5 Steward superintend carving and ser- vice, 9 STEWARD'S DUTIES. 1; early morning, 8: evening. 10 STEWARD'S dally report to manage- ment, 17; itemised statement of daily issues (illustration i>late III); marktt list of perishable foods, 21; weekly re- port (illustration plate III); relation to proprietor or manager. I; relation to the guests, the housekeeper, the head- waiter, 2 Still dry wines. 67 Stock on hand book. 17 Stock b"0k, wine room, 89 Stores, keeping and issuing. 18 STOREROO.VI, the, 5; bookkeeplne. 15; Ice box. 5: issue and receiving bookg, 15; Issues, daily report of. 17; issues, regular hours for. 5; monthly Inven- tory. 5; steward in the, 5 Supper, arranging the, bill of fare 41 Supplies, system of ordering from distant markets. 13 Switzerland, wines of. 77 Table d'hote and a la carte. 35 Tea. buying. 25; the meal, 44; and coffee making, 4 Teal duck and other wild fowl. tocarve,57 Turkev, wines of. 78; to carve. 56 UTENSILS, list of. for kitchen, bakery and pastry and pantry of 250- room und 40-room hotels. 6 Variety in the bill of fare, strive tor. 39 Vegetables, buying. 24: the place for on the bill of fare. 'M: to serve, 57 Venison, to carve, 56 Visiting, none during working hour?. 10 Waiters for the help, a Warning signs. 10 Wedding menu 59 WINES, ti2; art of drlnKlng ;ll; cl:i>;>^fl- cation of some of the most lum.jus, where grown and how made 61 WINES of America. 83; Africa. 78: Aus- tria. 72: Australia, 79; Bordeaux, 67; Burtrundy, 68: Champagne. ti5; Cotes du Rhone. 69; Cjnarles.76; France. 64; Germany. '.0; Greece. 77; Uungaria. 73: Italy. 76; Madeira, 76; Mexico. 86: Per- sia. 78; Portugal. 75: Russia. 78: Rou- mania. 78: sparkling. 66: still dry. 67: Spain. 74: South of France. 69; Switzer- land, 77: South America. 86; Turkey. 73 WINE room, the, 5; bookkeeping." 89; Issues. 6; temperature ••(. 6 Whitewash, lime, for wood, brick orstone to prepare. 88 Yardman, the. 6 Cook Books for Hotels and Restaurants For Sale by the Hotel Monthly. JOHN WILLY, Publisher, - - = 325 Dearborn Street, CHICAGO. Sent postpaid upon receipt of price. WHITEHEADS THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK AND GITIKd TO PAHTy CATERING. Price, postpaid, $3.00. The most complete and reliable work of Its kind ever pub- lished. Tiie contents include: PART 1— Hotel stewardlng and composition of Bills of Fare. PART 2— Restaurant Stew- ardlng and Public Party Catering. PART 3 -Catering for Private i'arties. and Headwaiters and their Troops. FART 4— A Dictionary of Dishes and Culinary Terms and Specialties PART 5- (low to Fold Napkins. WHITJ5UEADS THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. Price $2 The most complete work on breads, pastrie-s. ices. etc.. ever published. The contents include: PART 1— The Hotel Book Of Fine Pastries. Pies, l^atties. lakes, Creams, Custards. Char- lottes. Jellies and Sweet Entrements in variety. PART 2- The Hotel Book of Puddings. Scuffles and Meringues. A handy collection of Valuable Receipts. OL-iginal. selected and perfect- ed for use in Hotels ant pocket" ready reference where high class bar or catering service is demanded THE PRACTICAL HOTEL HOUSEKEEPER Price, postpaid $1 00 Is a collection of the articles contributed to the Hotel Monthly magazine under this head fiora 189ii-190'i. Defines the housekeei er's duties. Illustrates systems of keeping track of the linen. Contains an instructive ehaiitor on The Laun- dry. One hundred and seventy pages of valuable information MURREY'S SALADS AND SAUCES- Price i'lO cents HOW TO BECOME A WAITER (RoedelspergeiPrlce 50 cents. ROTTENHOFER'S COOK BOOK, printed in German. Price $5. QUOTATIONS FOR OCCASIONS. Price. $1.50. A very handy book for tluding apt quotations for menus. JERRY THOMAS' BARTENDER'S GUIDE. Price 75 cent3 SALADS. SANDWICHES AND CHAFING DISH DAINTIES Price, postpnid. $1.50 SENN'S PRACTICAL GASTllONO.MY, COZART'S WAITER'S MANUAL Price, 81 ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY. 4 vols . *20 00 VACHON'S BOOK OF ECONOMICAL ENTREE*, ready in August 1900) Price, 50 cents Price, $3 yHB PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE BOUND VOLUMES OF THE HOTEL MONTHLY for 1893, 1894, 1895, 189i;, 1897, 1898 and U99, the set $700. The Hotel Monthly Storeroom Issue Book. For Ascertaining Cost per Capita, Value of Stock on Hand from Day to Day, etc., etc. DESIGNED BY THE HOTEL MONTHLY FOR THE AVERAGE HOTEL, LARGE OR SMALL. PAGE MEASURES 14x16 L\CHES. 200- PAGE BOOK $2; 400-PAGE BOOK $4. (See chapter on Storeroom Bookkeeping on page 15 of this book.) Date, 1 — KITCHEN DINING ROOM OFFICE BAR a doz. Suieettireada 1 eo 6 sat. Cream 3 J«> 1 50 seal. Bourb(m 9 50 10 lb,. Flour so ■iOlbt. Sugar 1 1 bot. Ink 30 3 doz. Lemon 60 3 doz. Bau> eo i bu. Pbaches 1 50 6 Toilet Paptr 42 2 lbs. Cheese 30 50 i6». Roast 7 50 1 lb. Tta <5 $2 22 $10 40 tio 00 $5 95 LAUNDRY 1(1 lbs. Soap et Blueing 20 .m INDIVIDUAL ACCTS. Ibbl. Flour { Prop rietora family residence ) fs 00 HOUSEKEEPER s Brooms 36 Pumice 25 .61 BAKERY AND PASTRY ROOM Gdoz. Eggs 1 20 10 lbs. Butter 2 25 RF.CAPITULATION J ts i5 Kitchen 10 DiniDt; Room s 95 Bakerj & Pastry Room 3 45 Office 2 22 Laundrj 84 SERVANTS' HALL Houacketper 61 12 lbs. Sugar 60 Serrant-9 Hall 1 50 3 lbs. Coffee 90 Miscellaneous $1 50 St 57 Bar 10 40 Individual AccouDts 5 Total, $30 it7 Stock on Hand this a.M. aoo\oo Received to-day t7 1 15 ,<;|ij MISCELLANEOUS Issues to-day 3o!'»7 Stock on Hand this e.ai$l,07 ia House count 28 Cost i*r capita 87 CtS- L 9 THE HOTEL MONTHLY A MAGAZINE DEVOTED TO HOTEL AND HOTEL SUPPLY INTERESTS. Published by JOHN WILLY, at 325 Dearborn Street, Chicago. Subscription price ONE DOLLAR A YEAR. •The Practical Hotel Stewaid" was orig^inally printed serially in the Hotel Monthly. WRITE FOR SAMPLE COPY. The Epicurean A Franco-American Culinary Encyclopedia. SECOND EDITION. Containing a Complete Treatise of Analytical and Practical Studies on the Culinary Art. Illustrated with over Eight Hundred Engravings made Especially for the Work. BY CHARLES RANHOFER3 CHEFOFDELMONICO'S. PRICE In cloth binding, eig-ht dollars In half morocco binding-, ten dollars In full morocco binding-, twelve dollars This extensive work is the result of a lifetime's experience. The author, for thirty years the Chef of Delmonico's, has included in this massive volume the recipes for the dishes, etc , which have made that house famous, many of which are of his own introduction. * * * The best and most effectual manner of providing healthy, enjoyable, and nutricious food, economically, without waste, is a leading feature of the volume. * * * Every purchaser will doubtless fine permanent advantage and satisfaction in possession of the volume ; many a recipe or entire menus may prove of more value to the user than many times the price of the work. * * * It is so written and arranged as to be clearly and fully appreciated, even by the simplest reader of the English language. * * * The work is, in all detail, up to date; all recipes have been fully and satisfactorily tested, and are in daily use at Delmonico's. * * * No other work of tlie kind in existence is nearly as thorough and extensive as is this one, which may be considered to have practically exhausted the subject. * * * There are over 3 700 recipes, in all, in the book. These include variety ranging from the simplest to the most elaborate, including those in use at Courts of Europe, and from its pages may be prepared dishes and menus for from one person to a party of 400, or double or treble tliat number, etc. *** A great variety of bills of fare are given, for each montli of the year, for Breakfasts, Luncheons, Dinners, Suppers, Ambigus, Buffets, also for Invalids, etc., and a selection of specially interesting Bills of Fare of Delmonico's from 1862 to 1894. Menus of dinners to Presidents Grant and Johnson, to Bartholdi, Charles Dickens, De Lesseps, the Comte de Paris, and to other distinguished guests are given. * * * It supplies ample matter for use of purchasers of limited means, as well as for those of generous resources' * * * By means of reference numbers, also its exhaustive index, ready access is had, without a moment's delay, to any item of information sought in its pages. * * * It also supplies useful and important hints to those about entering pertinent professions. * * * It has an index for marketing, everything in season. * * * The chapter on Ice Creams contains the most complete and exhaustive treatise ever written on that subject. * * * The titles of dishes, etc., are given both in French and English. * * * The illustrations, of which there are about 800, will prove of great value. They include table service of this and other coun- tries. Instructions how to prepare, garnish, and serve, according to the traditional rules of our most able predecessors, and now followed by the principal chefs in Europe and the United States, are given. * * * THIS IS THE AUTHOR'S ONLY BOOK. Art and science combined have enabled him, at a great ex- pense, to produce this Encyclopedia of Gastronomic and Culinar> knowledge and information, such as must take its place as the standard work of its kind, for use of Chefs, Cooks, Stewards, Hotel Proprietors, Pastry Cooks, Confectioners, Ice Cream Makers, Caterers, and for Private Families. Also for Sani- tariums, etc. Table service and bills of fare, 180 pages, with illustrations. Elementary methods and utensils, with Illustrations. Soups, over 200 recipes. Sauces, 220 recipes. Garnishlntjs, nearly 150 recipes, with il- lustrations. Cold side dishes, 65 recipes, with illus- trations. Hot side dishes, 157 recipes, with illus- trations. MoUusks and Crustaceans, 99 recipes, with illustrations. Fish, 218 recipes, with illustrations. Beef, 165 recipes, with illustrations. Veal, 105 recipes, with illustrations. PARTIAL CONTENTS: Mutton. 75 recipes, with illustrations. Lamb, 100 recipes, with illustrations. Pork, 49 recipes, with illustrations. Poultry, 224 recipes, with illustrations. Game, 103 recipes, with illustrations. Miscellaneous entrees, li*8 recipes, with illustrations. Cold service, 2H7 recipes, with iUustra- tio IS. Vegetables, 172 reinpes.with illustrations Egga. 101 recipes, with illustrations. Farinaceous, 37 recipes. with illustrations Hot sweet entremets, 134 recipes, with illustrations. Cold sweet entremets, 99 recipes, with illustrations. Pastry, 279 recipes, with illustrations. Bakery, 19 recipes, with Illustrations. Ices, 189 recipes, with illustrations. Confectionary, 90 recipes, with illustra- tions. Wines, 10 articles, with illustrations. Styles of setting tables of the last cen- tury, illustrated. Fruits and preserves, fully treated, with illustrations. Delmonico's Menus. 1862 to 1394. Menus for lunch, for every month of the year. Menus for breakfast, dinner and supper for each month of the year. Menus for invalids. Menus for garden parties. Etc., etc., etc. Followed by an Exhaustive Index, occupying 44 pages. Large Octavo, nearly 1,200 pag-es. Illustrated with 800 very strongly bound. Engraving's. BeautifuUj and It is for sale by JOHN WILLY, the Hotel Monthly, 325 Dearborn St., Chicago. Epicurean. Cooking for Profit 'mr ¥* * \ And Eight Weeks at a Two Books In One. \ Summer Resort About 400 Pages. ^ By JKSSCrP WHITEHEAD. A REMARKABLE VOLUME WHICH SHOWS HOW MONEY IS MADE BY BOARDING PEOPLE AND WHAT IT COSTS TO LIVE WELL. SECOND EDITION, - - PRICE, $3.00, CONTENTS Part first — some Articles for the Show Case. The Lunch Counter. Restaurant Breakfastsi Lunches and Dinners. Hotel Breakfasts, Dinners and Suppers. Oyster and Fish House Dishes- The Ice C earn Saloon. Fine Bakery Lunch. Quaker Dairy Lunch. Confectionery Goodsi Homemade Beers, etc PART SECOND — Eight Weeks at a Summer Resort. A Diary. Our daily Bill of Fare and zchat it costs. A Party Supper for Forty Cents per Plate. The Art of Charging Enough. A School Commencement Supper. Question of How Many Fires. Sez'cn Fires for fifty fcrsoris vs. one Fire for fifty. The Round of Beef for Steak. A ISIeat Block and Utensils. Bill of Groceries. A Month' s Sufplyfor a Summer Boarding House, zvith Prices. A Refrigerator Wanted. About keeping Provisions; Pestaura?it Patterns. A Good Hotel Refrigerator. Cost of Ice to supply it. Shall we have a Bill of Fare? Peasons zuhy: a Blank Form. Is Fish Cheaper than Meat? Trouble with the Coffee. How to Scrub the Kitchen. Trouble with Steam Chest and Vegetables. Trouble with the Oatmeal. Building a House with Bread Crusts. Puddings without Eggs. A Pastry and Store Room Necessary. A Board on a Barrel. First Bill of Fare. Trouble with Sour Meats. Trouble with the Ice Cream. The Landlord's Birthday Supper. Shozuiug hozu rich and fancy Cakes zucre made and iced and ornamented zuithout using Eggs. The Land- lady's Birthday Supper, Trouble in Planning Dinners. Trouble with Captain Johnson. Trouble in Serving Meals. Trouble with the Manager. Breakfasts and Suppers for Six Cents per Plate. Hotel Dinners for Ten Cents per Plate. Hotel Dinners for Seventeen Cents per Plate. Supper for Forty for Eight Cents per Plate. Breakfast for Forty for Nine Cents per Plate. An Expensive Wedding Breakfast, /o;" the Colonel and the Banker s Daughter . Four Thousand Meals. Review Groceries for 4,000. Meat, Fish and Poultry for 4,000. Flour, Sugar and Coffee for 4,000. Butter and Eggs for 4,000, Potatoes, Fresh Vegetables and Fruits for 4,000. Canned Fruits and Vegetables for 4,000. Milk and Cream for 4,000. Total Cost of Provisions for 4,000. How to Save Twenty Dollars per Week. How Much we Eat. How Much we Drink. How Much to Serve. Work and Wages. Laundry Work. Fuel, Light and Ice. Total Cost of Board. How Much Profit? How Many Cooks to How Many People? Boarding the Employees. Boarding Children. Meals for Ten or Fifteen Cents. Country Board at Five Dollars. If — a Bundle of Supposition. Keeping Clean Side Towels. How Many Fires — Again. A Proposal to Rent for next Season. Conclusion. THE CONTENTS ALSO INCLUDE: One Hundred Different Bills of Fare, of Actual Meals, all with New Dishes; the Amount and the Cost per Head. Eleven Hundred Recipes. AH live matter that every Cook needs — both by Weight and by Cup and Spoon Measure. A Diciionarv of Cookery, Comprised in the Explanations of Terms and General Information contained in the Directions. Artistic Cookery. Instructions in Ornamentation, with Illustrations, and Notes on the London Cookery Exhibition of 1885. It is thoroughly analytical, practical, readable, and the first book of the principles of the systematic hotel-keeping FOR SALE BY John Willy, The Hotel Monthly, 325 Dearborn St., Chicago. HOTEL BBANK BOOKS. Among the blank books for hotel use, de- signed by the HOTEL MONTHLY, and which have been adopted by hotels in all parts of America are: The "H. M." Transient Ledger 150-page, tight back, not indexed • $2.00 3oo-page, spring back, half Russia, indexed, 4.00 500-page, " " " " " 6.00 Soo-page, patent flat opening " " 7.50 800-page, patent flat opening " " 9.50 The Four-X Transient Ledger 300-page, spring back, half Russia, indexed 5.00 500-page, patent flat opening " 8.50 The Economical Transient Ledger 200-page, cloth bound, indexed ■ - 3.00 300-page, spring back, half Russia, indexed 4.00 500-page, ', '■ " " " 6.00 500-page, " " patent flat opening 7.50 Storeroom Issue Book 200-page, 2.00 " " " 400-page, 4.00 File Book, 300-page, indexed 3.00 Valuable Package Check BooKioo-leaves 50 Express Package Receipt Book indexed, 1.50 Pay Roll Book - - - 1.50 The H. M. Bellboy Book 50 cents The H M. Special Order Book 50 " Hotel Registers Ready Made 150-page, without blotter - - - I2.50 100-page, blotter every other leaf - - 3.00 The Bailey Stock Book, adapted for wine or linen room - - - i.oo The Mulligan Letter Forwarder, indexed I1.50 All the above books are carried in stock by the HOTEL MONTHLY ready for immediate shipment. Sample leaves or circular Illus- trating the rulings, will be sent to hotels upon request. Address, JOHN WILLY, 325 Dearborn St., Chicago. c o J O U > < 0. CO s C 0- • < a 1 '° Ph ( 14 ill d S-| 1— 1 H < U ; 1 i 1 ) 1 \ / ! \ o bo is w o A «8 4> Q « > Z c o 4> u. m>.