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 ..VCopyright No. 
 
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 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 
 
 
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BRANCH OF FRUIT OF MEECH'S PROLIFIC QUINCE, FROM A FIVE- 
 TEAR-OLD TREE. 
 
QUINCE CULTURE 
 
 AN ILLUSTRATED HAND-BOOK FOR THE PROPAGATION AND 
 
 CULTIVATION OF THE QUINCE, WITH DESCRIPTIONS 
 
 OF ITS VARIETIES, INSECT ENEMIES, DISEASES 
 
 AND THEIR REMEDIES 
 
 -^/.^^ 
 
 SECRETARY OF THE VINELAND HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY, AND 
 
 HONORARY MEMBER OF THE NEW JERSEY STATE 
 
 HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY 
 
 REVISED AND ENLARGED EDITION. 
 
 
 NEW TOBK 
 
 ORANGE JUDD COMPANY 
 
 1896 
 
Copyright, 1896, 
 
 By orange judd company 
 
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 <A^ 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 9 
 
 Preface 
 
 Introduction - - 
 
 Chapter I. 
 
 .--- 13 
 History of the Qumce 
 
 Chapter II. 
 
 17 
 
 Structure of Quince Trees.-- ---- 
 
 • Chapter III. 
 
 _. 20 
 Varieties of the Qumce 
 
 Chapter IV. 
 
 oo 
 
 Soils for the Quince 
 
 Chapter V. 
 
 .... 36 
 Manures for the Qumce - 
 
 Chapter VI. 
 Location-Trenching-Drainage-Cultivation - - - - 41 
 
 Chapter VII. 
 
 , J --- 43 
 
 Laying out the Orchard - 
 
 Chapter VIII. 
 
 ^ . ---- 47 
 
 Transplanting the Qumce 
 
 Chapter IX. 
 
 When to Transplant-Keeping a Eecord-Eflects of Winds ^^ 
 
 —Straightening Trees - - - 
 
 Chapter X. 
 
 ^ . ---- 54 
 
 Propagation of the Qumce 
 
 Chapter XI. 
 
 . ... 64 
 Pruning the Qumce 
 
 (V) 
 
 • 
 
VI TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 Chapter XII. 
 Promoting Fruitfulness without Pruning 74 
 
 Chapter XIII. 
 Flowers and Fruit 75 
 
 Chapter XIV. 
 Thinning the Fruit 77 
 
 Chapter XV. 
 Gathering and Marketing 78 
 
 Chapter XVI. 
 The Profits of Quince Culture 81 
 
 Chapter XVII. 
 Diseases of the Quince 82 
 
 Chapter XVIII. 
 Winter-Killing .' 95 
 
 Chapter XIX. 
 Insect Enemies of the Quince 97 
 
 Chapter XX. 
 Additional Insect Enemies ... 133 
 
 Chapter XXI. 
 Some Fungi Injurious to the Quince 145 
 
 Chapter XXII. 
 
 Varieties of Recent Introduction 161 
 
 Chapter XXIII. 
 
 Chemical Analysis of the Ash of the Quince 163 
 
 Chapter XXIV. 
 Birds— Toads— Rabbits— Mice 170 
 
 Chapter XXV. 
 Medicinal and Economic Uses of the Quince 172 
 
ILLUSTEATIONS. 
 
 Frontispiece, Fruiting Branch of Meech's Prolific Quince, 
 
 Figure Page 
 
 1,2,3. Typical Forms of Angers 
 
 Quince 22 
 
 4,5. Typical Forms of Orange 
 
 or Apple Quince 23 
 
 6. Champion Quince 24 
 
 7. Chinese Quince.- 24 
 
 8. Fuller Quince 26 
 
 9. Meech's Prolific Quince 28 
 
 10. Missouri Mammoth Quince 30 
 
 11. Pear Quince--.. 31 
 
 12. Portugal Quince 31 
 
 13. Rea's Mammoth Quince ... 32 
 
 14. Laying out in Squares 43 
 
 15. Laying out in Quincunx... 44 
 
 16. Quincunx by Circles 44 
 
 17. Fixed Marker 45 
 
 18. Adjustable Marker 45 
 
 19. Movable Triangle - 45 
 
 20. Locating Board 46 
 
 21. Locating Board in Use 46 
 
 22. Good Tree Digging 48 
 
 23. Bad Tree Digging --- - 48 
 
 24. 25. Heeling-in Trees 51 
 
 26. Layering . - - 55 
 
 27. Mound or Stool Layering-- 57 
 
 28. Large Cutting 58 
 
 29. Root Grafting 58 
 
 30. Root Cutting 59 
 
 31. Splitting Knife and Chisel. 60 
 
 32. Cleft Grafting..- -- 60 
 
 33. Splice Grafting.- - 60 
 
 34. Saddle Grafting --. 61 
 
 35. 36. Side Grafting 61 
 
 37, 38. Crown Grafting 62 
 
 39, 40. Budding Knives 62 
 
 41. Stick of Buds 63 
 
 42. Cutting a Bud 63 
 
 43. Training a Shoot from a Bud 63 
 
 (VII) 
 
 Figure Page 
 
 44. Pruning Shears 65 
 
 45. Buds an d Branches 66 
 
 46. Tree before Pruning 70 
 
 47. Tree after Pruning 71 
 
 48. Bad and Good Pruning 72 
 
 49. Effects of Bad Pruning 72 
 
 50. Injury from Bad Pruning-- 73 
 
 51. Result of Good Pruning ---73 
 
 52. Ringing 75 
 
 53. A Cheap Step-Ladder- 79 
 
 54. Stave Basket 79 
 
 55. Fruit Crate 80 
 
 56. Stem at a Bud as Affected 
 
 by RjBstilia aurantiaca--- 86 
 
 57. Stem between Buds Affected 
 
 by Raestilia aurantiaca--- 87 
 Fruit and Stem as Affected 
 
 by Raestilia aurantiaca-.- 88 
 Spore of the RaestUia, Mag- 
 nified 400 Diameters 89 
 
 Allorhina nitida 89 
 
 Leaves Affected by Morth- 
 iera Mespili 90 
 
 62. Morthiera Mespili, Magni- 
 
 fied 400 Diameters 91 
 
 63. Mycelium of the Fungi 91 
 
 64. Hendersonia Cydonia, Mag- 
 
 nified 400 Diameters 91 
 
 Leaves Affected by Hender- 
 sonia Cydonia 92 
 
 Leaf Blight --- 93 
 
 67. Lai-va of the Borer. - - - 98 
 
 68. Pupa of the Borer 98 
 
 69. Beetle of the Borer -. 98 
 
 70. Woolly Aphis .100 
 
 71. Cut- Worm, Moth 102 
 
 72. Chrysalis of the Variegated 
 
 Cut-Worm.. 103 
 
 58. 
 
 59. 
 
 61 
 
 m. 
 
 66. 
 
VIII 
 
 INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 Figure Page 
 
 73. Larva of tlie Variegated 
 
 Cut- Worm 103 
 
 74. Eggs of the Variegated Cut- 
 
 Worm 103 
 
 75. Larva and Moth of tlie 
 
 Darlc-Sided Cut- Worm.... 103 
 
 76. Agrotis scandens 104 
 
 77. W-Marked Cut-Worm 104 
 
 78. Moth of W-Marked Cut- 
 
 Worm 104 
 
 79. Calosoma Scrutator 105 
 
 80. Calosoma calidum 105 
 
 81. Eggs of Handmaid Moth. .. 106 
 82 to 87. Larva of Handmaid 
 
 Moth 107 
 
 88. Chrysalis of Handmaid 
 
 Moth 107 
 
 89. Handmaid Motli 108 
 
 90. TachinaFly— A Parasite... 108 
 
 91. Fall Web- Worm, Larva .... 109 
 
 92. Chrysalis of Fall Web- 
 
 Worm 109 
 
 93. Moth of Fall Web-Worm. . . 109 
 
 94. Bag- Worm— All Stages 110 
 
 95. Cryptus inquisitor 112 
 
 96. Hemiteles thyridopteryx— 
 
 Male 112 
 
 97. Female 112 
 
 98. Corn Emperor Moth- 
 
 Larva 112 
 
 99. Female 113 
 
 100. Male 113 
 
 101. White -Marked Tussock- 
 
 Moth— Larva 115 
 
 102. Pupa 115 
 
 103. Male 115 
 
 104. Pear-Tree Slug— Female.... 117 
 
 105. Larva 117 
 
 106. Polyphemus Moth, Female 120 
 
 107. Male 120 
 
 108. Chrysalis 121 
 
 109. Larva 121 
 
 110. Cocoon 122 
 
 111. Long-Tailed Ophion 123 
 
 112. Cotton Tuft, Larva and 
 
 Cocoon 124 
 
 Figure Page 
 
 113. The Green Aphis 125 
 
 114. Leaf Grumpier 129 
 
 115. Leaves Destroyed by 
 
 Crumpler 129 
 
 116. Tarnished Plant-Bug 130 
 
 117. Pear-Tree Blister-Beetle ... 131 
 
 118. Chrysomelians 131 
 
 119. Quince Curculio 132 
 
 120. Cryptophasa unipunctata.. 134 
 
 121. Scolytus rugulosus 135 
 
 122. Perforations of Bark 13G 
 
 123. Breeding Chamber Under 
 
 the Bark 136 
 
 124. Parasite of Larva 136 
 
 125. Rose Beetle 137 
 
 126. Male Gipsy Moth 139 
 
 127. Female Gipsy Moth 139 
 
 128. Gipsy Moth Caterpillar.... 140 
 
 129. Gipsy Moth Pupa 140 
 
 130. Limb Infested with Scale.. 141 
 
 131. Underside of a Young Larva 141 
 
 132. Adult Female Containing 
 
 Young 142 
 
 133. Adult Male Insect 142 
 
 134. Bud Moth, Twice the Nat- 
 
 ural Size 144 
 
 135. Larva, Three Times Natural 
 
 Size 144 
 
 136. Central View of aPupa.... 144 
 
 137. Dorssl View of a Pupa 144 
 
 138. Young Quince Affected 
 
 with Rust 148 
 
 139. Spores of Quince Spot Fun- 
 
 gus 150 
 
 140. Badly Spotted Quince 151 
 
 141. Quince Affected with Black 
 
 Rot 152 
 
 142. Pale Rot of Quinces 154 
 
 143. Quince Affected with Ripe 
 
 Rot 155 
 
 144. Ripe Rot of Quince from 
 
 Apple 156 
 
 145. Quince Showy with Decays 158 
 
 146. 147, 148. Saving Girdled 
 
 Trees 171 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 To cultivate any fruit with the highest success there 
 must be sufficient knowledge of what is involved to 
 enable the cultivator to assign a reason for what he does 
 both to the soil and to the tree. 
 
 The object of this work is to furnish a manual or 
 hand-book for the novice and those who are already more 
 or less informed, and yet desire a work of reference to 
 consult in the various operations necessary to attain the 
 highest success in quince culture. 
 
 Aware of the imperfections of everything human, the 
 author does not expect that this attempt to furnish a 
 collective exhibit of the points of greatest interest per- 
 taining to this culture of a much-neglected fruit will be 
 beyond criticism. The demand for a work on qumce 
 culture is urgent, and is shown by many letters of in- 
 quiry from all parts of the country. Solicitations have 
 been numerous, asking the author to write this book, 
 and give the world the results of his experience. 
 
 On consulting the large libraries of the great cities, 
 and those in smaller cities and towns, no separate work 
 was found on quince culture. Interesting articles are 
 scattered through many volumes on agriculture, horti- 
 culture, and gardening, showing marked improvement m 
 the culture of nearly all fruits. There are works more 
 or less pretentious on the culture of the apple, pear, 
 peach, etc., but the various articles relating to the quince 
 are dispersed through so many different books, that 
 the labor of finding them, when the information they 
 contain is wanted, is too great to be generally undertaken 
 by even those having access to ample libraries. 
 
 After deciding to prepare this manual, the author spent 
 a year re-examining all the points, as the seasons favored, 
 (9) 
 
10 PREFACE. 
 
 to be well satisfied in regard to all the insect enemies 
 and diseases of the quince, and in reading whatever he 
 could find upon any part of the subject. Besides the 
 many points of interest in his own experience and obser- 
 vation, he takes great pleasure in acknowledging his 
 indebtedness to the writings of Charles Downing, John 
 Lindley, J. J. Thomas, A. S. Fuller, S. W. Cole, W. 
 Sanders, P. B. Mead, and others in the department of 
 propagation and culture. In studying the insect ene- 
 mies of the quince, his own observations have been 
 greatly aided by the works of Harris, Packard, Eiley 
 and Saunders, on entomology. In observing the dis- 
 eases to which the quince is subject, substantial help 
 has been derived from Professor Arthur's researches on 
 the blight, and the North American Fungi of Professor 
 Ellis. In the hope that it may prove a serviceable help to 
 all who shall consult its pages, it is respectfully submitted 
 to the public by the author. 
 
 PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION. 
 
 Since the publication of the first edition of this work 
 a number of insect enemies have been investigated, and 
 several species not then suspected have proved injurious 
 to the quince. All these, as well as the important fun- 
 gous diseases to which the quince is subject, are de- 
 scribed in this volume, together with their preventives 
 and remedies. Of special interest will be found the 
 chapter on the analysis of the quince, by Dr. H. W. 
 Wiley. Condensed descriptions of the varieties of recent 
 introduction have also been added, thus bringing the 
 work up to the present date. 
 
 W. W. MEECH. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 We live in a progressive age, when knowledge is 
 greatly increased, and the mental horizon widened by 
 the researches and observations of experimenters in hor- 
 ticulture, as in every other pursuit. Improvement in 
 quince culture has been remarkably slow, yet, on the 
 whole, has certainly attained to an encouraging state of 
 progress. The markets of the country are beginning to 
 be fairly supplied with this fruit, where but a few years 
 ago it was very scarce. 
 
 For both ornament and profit I know of no fruit that 
 can be planted with better promise of success than the 
 quince. In a city yard, or a village garden, there will be 
 some spot for a tree or two ; and on a farm, large or 
 small, the judicious planting of this fruit will be a most 
 profitable investment. The method of culture here 
 described has been attended with marked success. In 
 practice, the difference between success and failure often 
 depends on a little thing, very easily overlooked by the 
 most skilful. But as a good general organizes a victory 
 out of a defeat, so will a good culturist learn by his 
 failures to succeed in further trials, as by them he gets 
 back to first principles. 
 
 Quince culture is both an art and a science. One 
 great reason why the cultivation of the quince has been so 
 much neglected is, that it was accepted as a foregone con- 
 clusion that no success was to be expected in the place 
 and with the facilities at command. But now, with the 
 multiplication, improvement, and cultivation well under- 
 stood, and reduced to some degree of exactness, it is as 
 reasonable to expect success with this as with any other 
 fruit. 
 
 (11) 
 
12 INTRODUCTIOiq". 
 
 It will be of great service to understand the prin- 
 cipal laws governing the growth of plants, and the 
 application of those laws to this fruit. The method 
 of culture most in agreement with these laws will 
 always give the greatest promise of success. As was 
 said at a meeting of the Maryland Horticultural Soci- 
 ety: ^' This fruit deserves systematic cultivation, in- 
 stead of the careless system of a tree here and there in 
 the corners of fences, and in wet places, untrimmed and 
 choked by weeds." 
 
 In 1872 the editor of the ^^Horticulturist" asked: 
 *' Why does not some one, of a careful turn of mind, 
 forsaking the beaten path of fever for strawberries, cran- 
 berries, pears, and peaches, study the characteristics of 
 the quince, and learn its needs of soil and climate, and 
 then follow them up by planting a good orchard ? " The 
 author has done this, and here gives the results of his 
 experience. 
 
 The aim in this manual is to furnish all needed infor- 
 mation for the profitable cultivation of quinces in all 
 places where they will grow. Let this fruit, for which 
 there is no substitute, be no lono'er only a luxury within 
 the means of the rich, but become so common and abun- 
 dant that it may be enjoyed by all. It will greatly 
 increase the true wealth of the nation to provide all 
 classes with all the varieties of fruits in their seasons, and 
 so extend the means of health and happiness. 
 
QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 HISTORY OF THE QUINCE. 
 
 CYDOiiriA, to which the Quince {0. vulgaris) belongs, is 
 a genus of trees and shrubs of the natural order RosacecB, 
 sub-order Pomece, and nearly allied to Pyrus, with which 
 some botanists unite it; but it is distinguished from Pyrus 
 by having many seeds in each cell, and by the abundance 
 of mucilage in the seed cells. It is found all through 
 Western Asia and Southern Europe, whence its cultiva- 
 tion has been extended. 
 
 The rabbinical traditions of the Jews make it the 
 most ancient of all our fruits, dating back to the Garden 
 of Eden ; and there, by its exquisite beauty and delight- 
 ful fragrance, tempting Eve to commit her first disobedi- 
 ence. In harmony with this tradition, is the fact that 
 the quince grows in high perfection all through Palestine 
 and the surrounding countries. This fruit at Hebron is 
 so mild that many eat it out of hand, as we do apples 
 and pears. Both Jews and Mohammedans make great 
 use of it for various confections, preserving it in earthen 
 vessels akin to the crocks in use among us. According 
 to the '' Horticulturist " for 1848-9, ''The quince of Persia 
 attains a weight of fifty to sixty ounces ; ripens on the 
 tree or in the store, and can be eaten like a soft ripe pear." 
 
 It was early cultivated among the Greeks, who called 
 it the Kudonion Malon, the Cydonian Apple, and used 
 (13) 
 
14 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 it extensively as a preserve. Its botanical name, Cydo- 
 nia, comes from Oydon, a city on the island of Crete, 
 where it grew abundantly. They found it then, as now, 
 "both toothsome and wholesome." A writer in the sev- 
 enth volume of Putnam's Magazine tells how the ancients 
 testified to their appreciation of this fruit by dedicating 
 it to Venus. They regarded it as the emblem of both 
 love and happiness. With it they decorated the temples 
 of Cyprus and Paphos. It was the chosen ornament of 
 the statues of Hymen. In the garden of the Tuilleries 
 there is a figure of Hercules holding quinces in his hand. 
 According to Plutarch, Solon enacted a law that this 
 fruit should be the invariable feast of each newly- wedded 
 pair before they retired to their nuptial couch. Homer, 
 the Asiatic Greek and father of epic poetry, three thou- 
 sand years ago described a garden in his Odyssey with 
 such classic beauty, and sympathy with the real life of 
 the people of that age, that we almost wish we had lived in 
 his Smyrnian home to regale ourselves with the luscious 
 quinces and other fruits there grown in their perfection. 
 
 From the classic plains of Greece, where it may have 
 formed the sacred shade of Academus, this golden fruit, 
 in genial fellowship with literature and the arts, traveled 
 into Italy, where Virgil, the prince of Latin poets, threw 
 over its own inherent charms the rhythmic spell of his 
 enchanting lays. One of the magic effusions of his genius 
 appears in the beautiful lament of the shepherd Da- 
 mon, in the Vlllth Eclogue, where he honors the quince 
 by placing it among the select exponents of a higher 
 order of nature, hypothetically conceived to illustrate the 
 irremediable determination of the lover's despair. 
 
 The quince was, according to Goropius, the golden apple 
 of the Hesperides. Columella, the most elegant and ex- 
 tensive agricultural and horticultural writer of his time, 
 *' who scattered incense upon the altar of its virtues,'' 
 extolled it as the promoter of both health and pleasure. 
 
HISTORY OF THE QUI:N^CE. 15 
 
 The Elder Pliny, with the fond instinct of the true 
 pomologist, eloquently descants upon its valuable prop- 
 erties, and paints the tree as it appeared about Eome, 
 with its branches depending to the ground, jeweled with 
 starry fruit. In fact, '' the clever criticisms of this early 
 naturalist soon became lost amid his enchanting pane- 
 gyrics." Different varieties of the quince (more than we 
 possess now), he tells us, were cultivated in profusion 
 throughout Italy, ^^both for ornamental and useful in- 
 tents." Like the orange and lemon in our Northern States, 
 it appears sometimes to have been grown in boxes, which 
 "were exposed for admiration in the ante-chambers of 
 the great." He extolled most highly its health-imparting 
 and medicinal virtues, enlivening his classic descriptions 
 with a warmth of enthusiasm which ''must inevitably 
 fill the modern admirer of the quince with enduring 
 delight." 
 
 Professor Targioni, an Italian horticulturist, informs 
 us, that at the present time the peasantry in some parts 
 of Southern Europe highly prize the quince for perfuming 
 their stores of linen, and that in the yet warmer lands it 
 is still found as gratifying to the palate as to the nostrils. 
 A recent traveler in Persia, after speaking of its use as 
 a dessert, says it is yearly forwarded as presents to Bag- 
 dad, where the highly perfumed odor is found so power- 
 ful, that if there be but a single quince in a caravan, no 
 one who accompanies it can remain unconscious of its 
 presence. 
 
 The Italian name of the quince, cotona or cotogna, is 
 believed to be the origin of melocoton for a quince, as 
 melocotogno is the Italian for a quince tree. The Spanish 
 melocoton is a peach tree grafted on the quince, or the 
 fruit of this, but memirillo is the Spanish name of the 
 quince, as malum cotoneum is the Latin for a quince- 
 apple. The Portuguese name is marmelo, from which 
 comes our marmalade, a most valuable form of pre- 
 
16 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 serving the Portugal quince, one of the best quality. 
 In the south of France, on the border of Garonne, 
 quinces are extensively raised to make marmalade, 
 which is called cotignac, from the Italian. The French 
 name of the quince is coing or coignasier, a corner, and 
 seems to have been applied from the old idea of planting 
 this tree in a fence corner. The Dutch call the quince 
 Kivepeer, and the Germans Quitte or Quittenhaum, and 
 both cultivate it quite extensively. From Royle's Illus- 
 trations of the Himalaya Mountains we learn that *' The 
 quince plants introduced from Cashmere do not differ 
 from those already in India (Cydonia vulgaris). It is 
 found, either in a wild or cultivated state^ on the ramifi- 
 cations of Taurus and Caucasus, Hindoo-Khoosh and the 
 Himalayas, or in the valleys included within them." 
 "They are abundant at Bokhara and other places in the 
 north of Hindoo-Khoosh." 
 
 It is now found growing spontaneously on the banks 
 of the Danube and in Southern France. It is also exten- 
 sively cultivated in various parts of the French Republic, 
 especially at Angers, whence the stocks of young trees 
 are sent abroad by the million. Early in the history of 
 England we find accounts of its culture, where it was 
 employed for hedges as well as for ornament and fruit. 
 It seems to have traveled with the march of civilization, 
 and been celebrated in song as in mythology. 
 
 The Pilgrims early brought it to New England, where 
 it was cultivated on the rugged hillsides and in the 
 valleys ; and as they spread over the country in their 
 migrations, they carried with them the older varieties 
 of this fruit. The chief improvements in the varieties 
 and modes of cultivation are the result of the last half 
 century's experience ; and now, as we see all parts of the 
 civilized world interested in this fruit, we hail with joy 
 its progress and success. 
 
STRUCTURE OF THE QUINCE TREE. 17 
 
 CHAPTER 11. 
 STRUCTURE OF THE QUINCE TREE. 
 
 The root aud top are the two principal parts of all 
 trees. When raised from seed, a plant or tree has first 
 of all a main or tap-root, which goes down into the 
 ground, where it ramifies, and gives support and nour- 
 ishment to the top. The point where the root and top 
 meet is the collar of the tree. Trees grown from cut- 
 tings do not have a tap-root like seedlings, but make up 
 for it by the large number of laterals which they send out. 
 The top, consisting of the trunh and branches, termi- 
 nating in twigs with their leaves, is the counterpart to 
 the root system. The quince, in these respects, differs 
 in no way from other trees. The bark of one year old 
 twigs and shoots is beautifully flecked with a thick dot- 
 ting of light-colored spots, called lenticelles. They are 
 corky formations, having just projection enough to give 
 a slight roughness to the surface. 
 
 The buds are of two sorts, leaf and fruit. The buds 
 of the quince that produce fruit push out short growths 
 from one to three inches long, on the ends of which are 
 the blossoms and fruit. The leaf buds resemble them 
 at first, but when expanded are destitute of the organs 
 of the flowers and fruit. The quince makes its most 
 vigorous buds on the sides of its shoots instead of the 
 ends, and, when well cultivated, growth continues until 
 the autumn frosts nip the terminal buds. A large num- 
 ber of the buds are latent, and may remain dormant for 
 years. They are Nature's reserve to grow when others 
 are destroyed. When a vigorous shoot has been well cut 
 back, buds often push on each side of the visible buds, 
 giving three and sometimes more growths at ooe place. 
 The latent buds are developed when large branches are 
 
18 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 cut back or broken off by accident, or when even the 
 whole head of the tree has been removed. In a very vig- 
 orous tree it is quite common to have the buds push 
 their threefold development simultaneously; the central 
 growth bearing the blossom, and those on either side of 
 it only making wood-growth. Occasionally two of the 
 three bloom together. By observing the position of 
 the buds along a branch, in going the length of five buds 
 you can so prune as to give any desired direction to the 
 new growth, and thus form a symmetrical tree. 
 
 The leaves, with their stipules, form the foliage of the 
 tree, and seem to serve much the same purpose for it that 
 the lungs of animals do for them. Leaves not only give 
 beauty to the tree, but are necessary to its existence. 
 They are formed of a series of veins, between which is 
 the cellular tissue or parenchyma, which consists of 
 numerous cells of various forms, with air spaces between 
 to increase the surface exposed to the air and sunlight. 
 There are about 25,000 of these breathing pores in each 
 leaf, through which moisture and air are received, and 
 vapor and carbonic acid given off. By this process the 
 sap in the leaves is thickened, and the material of woody 
 fiber elaborated. The wood of trees is chiefly carbon, 
 which the leaves have absorbed from the air. Their ni- 
 trogen comes from the combined influence of the air, the 
 sun's light and heat, the humus of the soil, and the action 
 of potash. Analysis of the ashes shows that a very small 
 part of the constituents come from the soil. The air 
 is an abundant storehouse of exhaustless capacity, full 
 of the materials of plant growth, to which each culti- 
 vator possesses a key. Every man and air-breathing 
 animal on earth is helping to keep this atmospheric 
 storehouse filled with the material of plant growth 
 by every breath exhaled ; and so all animated creation 
 is at work for the tiller of the soil. Not only are 
 the leaves the laboratory of the growing wood, but 
 
STRUCTURE OF THE QUINCE TREE. 19 
 
 also of the fruit. If we would have perfect fruit, we 
 must have plenty of good healthy leaves to mature it. If 
 diseases or insect enemies are allowed to deprive a tree of 
 its leaves, the growth both of wood and fruit will suffer 
 accordingly. 
 
 The flower of the quince consists of a five-parted calyx, 
 urn-shaped, of a green color ; a corolla of five pinkish 
 colored petals, quite broad at the outer end, and five 
 styles in the midst of many stamens that fructify the 
 seeds. In exceptional cases there are six petals, and oc- 
 casionally a semi-double blossom with ten. The seeds 
 are in five large cells, in each of which are two rows 
 of seeds, covered with a thick mucilage. The quince 
 flowers in May, and sometimes a few flowers ap- 
 pear in June. In exceptional seasons the quince, like 
 other trees, will bloom in autumn. I had a young tree 
 bloom full in the fall, that put out quite feebly the 
 next spring, and died entirely the second year after. 
 
 The fruit is either apple or pear shaped, and covered 
 with a white down, that affords partial protection from 
 insect enemies. If the quince is gathered before it is 
 fully ripe it is very slow in coloring, and may never wear 
 the rich golden yellow it would if left to mature as 
 Nature intended. Though one of the hardest of all 
 fruits, it is also one of the easiest bruised, and then most 
 rapidly decays. Early ripening varieties are not as high 
 flavored as the later, and much sooner decay. 
 
 The life force or vital principle acts on the carbon, 
 oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and mineral matters which 
 are combined in the formation of the cellular structure 
 of the tree in all its parts. The mystery of plant life is, 
 that the germ in the seed has in it the organizing power 
 that determines both the form and functions of the cells 
 by which it builds up all its growth. Chemical analysis 
 reveals the various elements and their proportions in the 
 vegetable cell; but the utmost skill of the chemist, with 
 
20 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 all his knowledge of matter, has never enabled him to so 
 combine these elements as to produce and build up living 
 organic matter from what comes to him without life. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 VARIETIES OF THE QUINCE. 
 
 There is a difference of opinion among horticulturists 
 as to what constitutes a variety. Some classify all the 
 varieties as being either apple or pear quinces, without 
 regard to the other differences. Others class as varieties 
 all that show distinctive differences in their habits of 
 growth, time of ripening their fruit, shape, and quali- 
 ties of color, fragrance, and flavor. To the latter class 
 the writer allies himself, and will be governed in his de- 
 scriptions accordingly. 
 
 Traveling over this country from east to west or from 
 north to south, we find a great number of seedling 
 varieties that have no distinctive names, but are called 
 by their possessors after the well-known varieties from 
 which they are supposed to have sprung, or which they 
 most closely resemble. On this point Charles A. Green, 
 of the *^ Fruit Grower," has well said : *^ Almost every- 
 thing in the shape of a quince that is not known to be 
 Angers or Champion is called Orange quince. The race 
 of Orange quinces has sprung from numerous seedlings, 
 and there are numerous types of it all over the country 
 that vary in shape, size, quality, and dates of ripening. 
 I have given this matter the closest attention, and find 
 in my travels that the Orange quince is divided into 
 many strains coming from different sources. Quinces 
 have sprung up in gardens, have been planted, propa- 
 gated, and called Orange quince, for the reason that they 
 
VARIETIES OF THE QUINCE. 21 
 
 resembled that quince more closely than any other vari- 
 ety. In many cases these are not Orange quinces, but 
 seedlings that vary considerably. I do not doubt but 
 that Meech's Quince is one of these variations of the 
 Orange quince, of an improved type." 
 
 In harmony with this view of Mr. Green, I first called 
 this variety the Pear-shaped Orange Quince, and only 
 consented to change it to Meech's Prolific when my hor- 
 ticiiltural friends showed that it needed a different name 
 to avoid being confounded with some of the other pear- 
 shaped varieties. I have seen samples of half a dozen 
 seedlings grown in Pennsylvania and New Jersey, each 
 of which was clearly distinct in tree or fruit, or both. 
 A seedling tree in Philadelphia bears a very pretty quince 
 having the marks of the old Orange quince. At Jen- 
 kintown, Pennsylvania, is a seedling tree growing more 
 upright than its parent, but the fruit very closely re- 
 sembles it. In Bridgeton, New Jersey, is a seedling that 
 produces a beautiful specimen of the obscure pyriform of 
 mild acid quality. In Millville, New Jersey, is a seed- 
 ling shaped like an apple, except that it is very deeply 
 ribbed from the blossom to the stem all around. In 
 Vineland there are two good seedlings of the apple and 
 pear shapes, and each of them an improvement on its 
 ancestry. So, no doubt, close observers will find it all 
 over the country. The fruit books and catalogues offer 
 but a very short list of varieties. I here give, in alpha- 
 betical order, the varieties of most importance, as now 
 found in cultivation, with a few not very commonly found. 
 
 1. Anger's Quince {Cijdoniavtdgaris). — This variety 
 has a remarkably strong and vigorous root system, which 
 has made it valuable as a stock for dwarfing the pear. 
 The nurserymen of this country import large quantities 
 of these stocks every year for this purpose ; and for the 
 Champion quince, which succeeds better on them than 
 on its own roots. - ~ 
 
22 
 
 QUIl^CE CULTURE. 
 
 In my experience the Angers has been very uncertain. 
 Sometimes it is entirely barren, and then, again, bears 
 abundantly. The fruit varies from the shape of the 
 apple to the pear, having generally a modified form 
 
 Fig. 2. 
 
 ANGERS— THREE FORMS. 
 
 between them. Sometimes it attains to a weight of 
 twenty ounces. The fruit ripens quite late in the fall, 
 and will keep well in a common cellar, like apples. The 
 flesh is a little coarser than that of the Orange. 
 
 2. Apple or Orange Quince {Cydonia vulgaris v. 
 maliformis). This is generally known simply as the Orange 
 quince. Some speak of the Apple quince as distinct from 
 the Orange; but, as generally understood, they are one and 
 the same variety. One old author speaks of the Orange 
 and Angers as one and the same ; but he could hardly 
 make a clearer mistake. The Orange variety is most 
 cultivated in New York and New England, probably 
 because of its early ripening. 
 
 The old Orange quince tree is very readily distinguished 
 by the trunk and larger limbs having very rough excres- 
 cences all around them at very short intervals. The 
 color of the leaves* and of the bark on young twigs is 
 perceptibly lighter than on the other varieties, includ- 
 
VARIETIES OF THE QUIITCE. 
 
 23 
 
 ing seedlings. The strains of the Orange quince that 
 have evidently sprung from its seeds, will generally be 
 found to have smoother trunks, with deeper color of 
 leaves and of the bark on the twigs. The shape of the 
 fruit in the old Orange quince is like a Rhode Island 
 Greening apple or a Fallawater. It is often broad- 
 ened toward the stem, and occasionally shapes up to 
 the stem like a Seckel pear. In some of the newer 
 strains the whole body of the fruit is more elongated. 
 The color is a rich orange, which is often marred by 
 red spots as the fruit matures ; and when fully ripe 
 
 Fi^^. 4.— ORANGE, OLD TYPE. 
 
 Fi^. 5.— ORANGE, SEEDLING. 
 
 these spots sink below the surface, and after a little 
 while become centers of decay. This decay is frequently 
 seen while the fruit is yet on the tree. The flesh is 
 generally tender, and the flavor good, though not as 
 high as in varieties that ripen later. This lack of high 
 fl;ivor is much more noticeable in New Jersey and fur- 
 ther South, where it ripens about the middle of Sep- 
 tember, when the weather is hot, than in New York and 
 further North, where it ripens later, and cooler weather 
 brings the fruit to a higher perfection. 
 
 The time of ripening in all places will vary with the 
 variations of the season. Trees in very full bearing will 
 
24 
 
 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 take longer to perfect the fruit. I have seen a difference 
 of two weeks, which was clearly attributable to this cause. 
 A fair weight for the Orange quince is about half a pound; 
 but in favorable circumstances it will come up to a pound, 
 and has reached twenty-two ounces. In many parts of 
 the United States it has long been the most popular 
 variety, though some of the seedlings which bear this 
 name are inferior. 
 
 3. The Champion" Quince. — This variety is one of 
 those but lately brought to public notice. It is described 
 
 6.— CHAMPION 
 
 as being "obscure pyriform, between the shape of an 
 apple and a pear, with the stem inserted at the base of an 
 unusually prominent lip, and inclined ; the skin a lively 
 yellow, strongly russeted for a short distance around the 
 stem ; calyx set in a remarkably deep and strongly corru- 
 gated basin." The tree is very vigorous, and comes early 
 into bearing. The fruit is larger than the Orange. It 
 ripens later than any other quince, and has been grown 
 to weigh twenty-four ounces. 
 
7ARIETIES OF THE QUINCE. 25 
 
 It is especially difficult to propagate from its own cut- 
 tings. The growing shoots have a yery dark color, which 
 is peculiarly its own, and distinguishes it from others. 
 It is unusually subject to blight in some parts of the 
 country. In some sections it grows vigorously and bears 
 abundantly, while in others it is a very moderate grower, 
 and bears accordingly. 
 
 4. Chinese Quince {Cydonia Sinensis) is a variety 
 cultivated for ornament. In the Southern States it is in 
 favor for its fruit, which sometimes attains a weight of 
 two and a half pounds. I have found the quality good 
 for a preserve, though the grain is a little coarse. The 
 tree grows to the hight of thirty feet or more. The fo- 
 liage assumes a beautiful red tint in autumn. The 
 flowers are rosy red, with a violet odor. It blooms in 
 May. The fruit is very large, smooth, oblong-oval, and 
 of a greenish yellow. The flesh is firm; and when pre- 
 served turns to a beautiful pink. It ripens late, and 
 keeps a long time in sound condition. 
 
 This quince was taken to Holland at the close of the 
 last century, and to France in the beginning of this, 
 and fruited in the Jardin du Roi in 1811. It proved 
 hardy in Paris, but the season was short for its fruit to 
 ripen well. It succeeds in the West Indies, and in the 
 United States south of Maryland. To swell some cata- 
 logues the Chinese quince trees have been called Hong 
 Kong and Lutea. 
 
 5. De Bourgeaut is a late French sort, described as 
 " Feathered trees," and in appearance looks quite differ- 
 ent from any other variety. 
 
 6. FoNTENAY or New Upright.— This derives its 
 name from its upright form. It is slender and branching, 
 and forms small, compact trees. The bark is very light 
 green. Its cuttings root very readily. It is used for stocks. 
 
 7. Fuller Quince. — This new variety was discovered 
 about twenty years ago by A. S. Fuller, at Ridgewood, 
 
26 
 
 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 Bergen County, N. J., on the grounds of a neighbor, 
 from whom he obtained cuttings and propagated a few 
 trees. The original tree was broken down and corn- 
 
 Fig. 8. — FULLER. 
 
 pletely destroyed by the workmen while building a new 
 house, and but for the timely notice of Mr. Fuller would 
 have been lost to the world. The beauty of the fruit, 
 
VARIETIES OF THE QUINCE. 2? 
 
 when it assumed a rich golden yellow early in the season, 
 was what first arrested Mr. Fuller's attention. "It is 
 large and uniformly pear-shaped, occasionally with a long 
 slender neck, not larger than a man's thumb. Flesh 
 fine-grained, with very little of the usual grittiness com- 
 mon to the quince." Dr. Thurber adds to these points 
 of Mr. Fuller's description, that the surface is somewhat 
 ridged, that the calyx is set in a deep, wide basin, and 
 that the flesh is remarkably tender and well-flavored. 
 The specimen figured weighed nineteen ounces. 
 
 8. The Japanese Quij^ce {Cydonia Japonica) is the 
 well-known flowering quince of our gardens, and is con- 
 spicuous in early spring for its brilliant flowers. It is a 
 thorny, straggling, and bushy plant, sending up numerous 
 suckers, which admirably adapt it for forming hedges, for 
 which purpose it is often used. The fruit is generally 
 elliptical, but often resembles a peach. The color is 
 greenish yellow, often with blushing cheeks. The flesh 
 is very hard and firm, but strongly aromatic. The jelly 
 made from it is excellent. It will flavor two or three 
 times its own bulk of other fruits. The scarlet flowers 
 of the Japonica, as they open among the first blossoms 
 of spring, are unsurpassed in their brilliancy and the 
 charm they impart. 
 
 9. Meech's Prolific Quince. — This variety is the 
 most uniformly prolific of all known varieties. So far 
 as 1 have been able to trace its history, it originated in 
 Connecticut over thirty years ago, and was slightly dis- 
 tributed under the name of the Orange quince, or with- 
 out any specific name. Some trees were taken to New 
 York, Ohio, and New Jersey, but no general attention 
 was attracted to its merits until the stock came into the 
 hands of the author, who, after testing it beside other 
 sorts, published in 1883 an article in the American 
 Agriculturist, describing it under the name of the Pear- 
 shaped Orange Quince. The article attracted the atten- 
 
28 QUIN"CE CULTURE. 
 
 tion of the venerable Charles Downing, who wrote 
 that he judged, from the description, it was a new va- 
 riety, in which opinion he was fully confirmed by a 
 subsequent examination of the fruit. He expressed, his 
 belief not only that it was ''an acquisition to the quince 
 
 MEECH'S PKOLIFIC. 
 
 family," but *^ worthy of general cultivation." So far as 
 tested, it has justified his good opinion. 
 
 The trees of this variety are exceedingly vigorous, 
 fully equaling, if not exceeding, the Angers. The trunk 
 is smooth, and entirely free from the excrescences of some 
 other kinds. The bark of the young twigs is darker than 
 
VARIETIES OF THE QUINCE. 29 
 
 that of the Orange, and is beautifully flecked with len- 
 ticelles. The leaves are very broad in proportion to their 
 length, and of a deep shade of green. The blossoms 
 are very large. The buds have been substituted for 
 those of the rose in floral designs with happy effect. It 
 is not uncommon for one year old trees to blossom in the 
 nursery rows, and occasionally bear fruit to ripeness. 
 Such trees, after being transplanted, have uniformly 
 borne every year after, so that I could show the horti- 
 cultural wonder of fruit on every age from one to twelve 
 years. 
 
 The fruit is obscure pyriform, very large, of a bright 
 golden yellow, exceedingly fragrant, and of high flavor. 
 The skin is of a very fine texture. The cup of the stem 
 end is very small, and often entirely wanting ; that of 
 the blossom end is not as large as in most other varieties, 
 and is less corrugated. The superiority of the fruit in 
 crates or cans has been well proved by the highest prices 
 in the home markets as well as in the large cities. 
 The time of ripening, early in October, has been found to 
 suit all classes by coming to the tradesman and consumer 
 between the earliest and latest, when the season favors 
 its highest perfection. It has weighed as high as eighteen 
 ounces on full-bearing trees, though twelve to fifteen is 
 a good size, giving seventeen fruits to the rounded peck. 
 A Frenchman has this in his catalogue: '' Meech's 
 ProZ^^c— Remarkable for its productiveness, uniformity 
 in size, regularity in bearing, and superior quality. It 
 meets every requirement of a perfect quince." 
 
 10. Missouri Mammoth Quince.— This variety origi- 
 nated in Massachusetts. It was carried to Ohio, and 
 from there to Kansas City, Missouri, by J. M. Slocum, 
 who sold the stock to S. C. Palmer, by whom it has been 
 disseminated. After being tested some twelve or fifteen 
 years, it was accepted with so much favor as to receive 
 the commendation of the Missouri Valley Horticultural 
 
30 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 Society, and from that Society received its name. The 
 description of the tree is, that it is a healthy and vigor- 
 ous grower, very productive, and a regular bearer ; that 
 *'when planted at one year old, and well handled, it 
 will bear in five years," and *' after it comes well into 
 
 Fig. 10.— MISSOURI MAMMOTH. 
 
 bearing the yield is from one to two bushels per tree." 
 The fruit, which '* ripens about the time of the Orange, 
 is very large, pyriform in shape, and very rich and 
 aromatic." The stem is set in a broad basin, and the 
 cup of the blossom end is deeply corrugated. 
 
 11. Musk or Pineapple Quince, — This is an old 
 
VARIETIES OF THE QUINCE. 
 
 31 
 
 variety, that produces a large frnit, but is now discarded. 
 It had its celebrity in this country fifty years ago. The 
 Musk was one of the sorts spoken of by Columella. 
 
 12. Pear Quince {Cydonia vulgaris y. oUo7iga). — It 
 receives its name from being shaped like a pear, oblong, 
 and tapering to the stem. The fruit is yellow, the flesh 
 a little darker than the Orange, and much tougher, be- 
 coming woody around the core. It is of medium size, 
 and though one of the oldest, is also one of the poorest 
 varieties. It ripens much later than the Orange. Its 
 
 Fig. 11.— PEAR. 
 
 Fig. 12.— PORTUGAL. 
 
 chief excellence is its high flavor. It is now little culti- 
 vated, better sorts taking its place. 
 
 13. The Portugal Quince {Cydonia vulgaris v. 
 Lusitanica) is the earliest ripening of all the varieties, 
 being ten days earlier than the Orange quince. It is 
 not a visrorous gfrower, but has been used for stocks. The 
 leaf is a little longer and wider in proportion than the 
 Orange quince. The trunk and branches are peculiarly 
 marked by excrescences as smooth as those on the old 
 Orange are rough. The fruit is large, a little oblong, 
 tapering from the middle each way, like a Kieffer pear. 
 
32 
 
 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 The quality is excellent. When cooked the flesh turns 
 purple or crimson. The color of this variety is a very 
 bright yellow. The reason it is so little cultivated is 
 that it is so shy a bearer. 
 
 14. Eea's Seedling, or Rea's Mammoth, was raised 
 
 by Joseph Rea, of Coxsac- 
 kie, Greene County, N. Y. 
 It is believed to be a seed- 
 ling of the Orange, though 
 in shape it is obscure pyri- 
 form. It ripens later than 
 the Orange, and keeps 
 very well after ripening. 
 Tlie flavor is excellent. 
 It has attained a weight 
 of twenty-two ounces in 
 
 T,. ,o , ^ew Jersev's sandy soil. 
 
 Fig. 13.— rea's. _, . -\^ . f 
 
 To attain full size the tree 
 needs high culture with good thinning. But for the 
 tenderness of the trees in some localities, this variety 
 must have reached a much wider dissemination. 
 
 15. The Sweet Quince. — This variety is so named 
 because the fruit is mildly acid and not very astringent. 
 The tree is a good grower and bears abundantly. T. B. 
 Jenkins, of Ghambersburg, Penn., says this variety was 
 raised from seed about 1830, and has been a regular 
 bearer. The fruit is described as being medium to 
 large, roundish oblate, and somewhat ribbed ; color yel- 
 low, but not so bright as the Orange. The stem is set 
 in a broad, dull brown, and rough, knob-like projection, 
 while the calyx has large, long segments, set in a deep 
 basin much corrugated. The flesh is firm and of a deep 
 yellow, coarse grained, a little tough, and not very juicy. 
 
SOILS FOR THE QUINCE. 33 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 SOILS FOR THE QUINCE. 
 
 There is a diversity of opinion as to what kind of soil is 
 best suited for the quince. One class of observers, wl\o 
 have seen this frnit growing in high perfection in the rich 
 accumulations washed down from the hill-sides for ages, 
 iusist on a moist or alluvial soil. Others, with a suc- 
 cessful experience in a light sandy loam, may favor that. 
 Others still, observing that quinces grow successfully on 
 all kinds of soil, except dry sand or wet swamps, would 
 plant it anywhere, from the low lands along the sea-coast, 
 or margins of lakes and ponds, streams and rivers, to the 
 higher plains and table-lands, or on the hill-sides and 
 hill-tops of quite elevated locations. 
 
 This fruit has attained high perfection in the moun- 
 tain regions of Georgia, and North and South Carolina. 
 J. Van Buren, of Clarksville, Georgia, says : " It is not 
 unusual to raise quinces five to five and a half inches in 
 diameter, fair, smooth, and beautiful, and of high flavor." 
 
 The quince adapts itself to different soils and circum- 
 stances with remarkable success. The soil may have 
 a preponderance of sand, gravel, or clay, and yet be rich 
 in those fertilizing materials which adapt it to all wants. 
 An analysis of the wood, bark, and fruit will show that 
 the soil and atmosphere together have supplied it with 
 potash and lime, soda and silica, alum and iron, mag- 
 nesia and chlorine, phosphoric, sulphuric, and carbonic 
 acids, and moisture. To these add decaying animal and 
 vegetable matter, with needed water, light, heat, elec- 
 tricity, and the aerial gases, and we have the perfection 
 of fertility. A heavy clay soil will be improved by the 
 addition of sand or silica, because it will make it warmer, 
 and more open and friable. A light, sandy soil, will be 
 
34 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 made better by the addition of clay or alumina, because 
 it will make it more compact and retentive of moisture. 
 Lime and chalk will produce effects intermediate be- 
 tween the silica and alumina. The mechanical condition 
 will be found quite as important as the chemical constitu- 
 tion of the soil. When the mineral elements of fertility 
 near the surface become too much reduced or exhausted 
 by long cultivation, it will be helpful to work the soil 
 deeper, bringing up the reserve forces ; or by the addi- 
 tion of a perfect fertilizer, the growth will go forward 
 with success. 
 
 In selecting soils, the first choice should be a strong 
 loam, with enough sand in its composition to make 
 it work easy. In a deep, strong soil the trees should 
 not be expected to come into as early bearing as in 
 the sandy soil, because the greater vigor of growth 
 does not so soon tend to the formation of fruit buds ; 
 but when they do bear they make up for any lost time 
 by the abundance and quality of the fruit, and greater 
 longevity, and immunity from disease. A gravelly loam, 
 if not too gravelly, is the second choice, because it comes 
 the nearest to the first in all the more desirable qualities. 
 A light, sandy soil is the next choice. It is a very de- 
 sirable soil on many accounts ; and where it has a clayey 
 subsoil, as in my Vineland orchard, excellent results may 
 be attained. It is not every one who can have his choice 
 of soils, and it must suffice to use the very best available. 
 After an experience of over twelve years with a light, 
 sandy loam, I am well satisfied with its advantages. It 
 is easily worked, yields excellent returns, and maintains 
 a healthy growth. The clayey soil is chiefly objectionable 
 on account of its being often too wet and heavy. Where 
 the clay is not in excess, this soil is capable of being 
 drained and otherwise improved, so as to give promise of 
 good results. If only the proper cultivation be given, 
 any soil that will yield good crops of corn and potatoes 
 
SOILS FOR THE QUIIfCE. 35 
 
 may be used for the quince. This is especially true all 
 along the sea-coast of the New England and the Middle 
 States. 
 
 In many sections of the country, soils of all these 
 varieties will be found along the rivers. There will be, 
 first, the alluvial of the river basin in a strip along the 
 river bank, varying in width, and overflowed every year 
 by freshets, which leave it more or less enriched by silt. 
 Then, secondly, there will be the belt of sandy soil, 
 usually a rich loam, suited for almost every kind of crop. 
 Back of this, and rising on the hill-side, is the more 
 sandy and gravelly land, of variable quality, and more 
 affected by droughts. The middle belt is preferable for 
 the quince, as, indeed, it is for most other crops. But 
 on them all the quince will succeed by skilful manage- 
 ment. 
 
 The quality of the fruit on a wet soil is much more 
 woody and astringent than on a rich and well-drained soil. 
 A wet soil is always inimical to successful fruit culture. 
 If for any cause it is desired to plant trees where a wet 
 and heavy soil cannot be properly drained, the ground 
 should be raised enough for the surplus water to pass off ; 
 though it is doubtful whether any amount of drainage 
 can make a spot so situated profitable for this purpose. 
 Excessive moisture is as bad as want of water. 
 
 A soil that is too dry will retain needed moisture in 
 the heat of summer by being well cultivated. A hard 
 and shallow soil, by being worked deep, and thoroughly 
 mellowed, will resist drought successfully. But if the sub- 
 soil be clayey we must not deepen so as to make the soil 
 hold water like a basin. In deepening a clay soil very 
 much we may necessitate drainage. Water-soaked roots 
 are no better for the health of the tree than wet feet are 
 for the health of man. 
 
36 QUIN^CE CULTLKE. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 MANURES FOR THE QUINCE. 
 
 Whatever can be used to increase the fertility of the 
 soil by supplying plant food is a manure. The chemical 
 analysis of any plant will show its constituents, and give 
 the relative proportion of each, and so serve as a guide 
 in supplying what that plant needs. About nine-tenths 
 are water and air ; the rest is made up of earths and 
 metals, as lime, clay, iron, magnesia, silex, potash, and 
 soda, with gases and combustibles, as oxygen, hydrogen, 
 nitrogen, chlorine, carbon, sulphur, and phosphorus. 
 In the process of growth the plant selects such of these 
 as its nature demands ; and when it dies and decays it 
 restores to the earth these elements of fertility. 
 
 Artificial fertilizers are made by mechanically com- 
 bining in desired proportions the elements of plant food, 
 to supply any deficiency of the soil under cultivation. 
 The action of any manure depends on its soluble salts. 
 " The salts contain the sulphur, phosphorus, and carbon, 
 as sulphuric acid, phosphoric acid, and carbonic acid, 
 and the chlorine as muriatic acid." 
 
 All animal and vegetable matters in the process of 
 decomposition form ammonia. It is estimated that the 
 annual rainfall on an acre brings to the soil enough 
 ammonia and nitric acid from the air to equal one hun- 
 dred pounds of guano. The soil, to get the full benefit 
 of this atmospheric manure, must be kept porous to 
 receive it, and well drained that it may not run off on its 
 surface. When fire consumes vegetation, its gases return 
 to the air, leaving as ashes the earthy matters drawn from 
 the soil. In the process of decomposition the result is 
 the same, only the combustion is slower. 
 
 Wood ashes contain all the elements of plant food ex- 
 cept nitrogen. Two and a half tons of seasoned hard 
 
MANUEES FOR THE QUINCE. 37 
 
 wood yield a bushel of ashes. In one hundred pounds 
 of such ashes tliere are about sixteen pounds of potash, 
 which is needful to good fruit. There are next three 
 and a half pounds of soda, five and a quarter pounds of 
 phosphoric acid, and sixty-seven pounds of lime and 
 magnesia. A mixture of one part ashes with three parts 
 of chip dirt is an excellent top dressing for the orchard. 
 When the needed potash can not be had in wood ashes, 
 a substitute may be made of the muriate or the sulphate 
 of potash. Nitrate of soda and muriate of potash im- 
 prove the quality of acid fruits. Lime is valuable in 
 most soils by its solvent effects on the silica they con- 
 tain. If lime be found in the ashes of a plant, it will be 
 valuable as a fertilizer of that plant ; and such is the 
 case with all hard wood trees like the quince. It also 
 improves the fruit. 
 
 Salt is so valuable to the quince, that it must be con- 
 sidered indispensable to its highest success. I no longer 
 think of raising quinces without salting every spring 
 before the trees begin to grow. I have learned not only 
 to salt my quince trees, but my pear trees as well. It 
 does them good not only in promoting a healthy growth, 
 but I think acts as a preventive of the blight, to which 
 both are subject. It may do this by its chlorine or by 
 its soda, or by both combined, through the spongioles of 
 the roots effecting a change in the sap and the wood. 
 We know not how, but have found the effect favorable. 
 Besides these effects it also promotes fruitf ulness. I sowed 
 about three quarts (the quantity for a tree large enough 
 to bear a bushel) around a barren tree early one spring, 
 and the year after it bore well, and so continued from 
 year to year. Quince trees along the sea-coast may be 
 expected to do well. Trees at Newport, Rhode Island, 
 that were set for screens in exposed places, yielded ex- 
 cellent crops of very fine quinces. Salt acts as a solvent 
 of other materials of fertility locked up in the soil. In 
 
38 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 land fertilized a long time with superphosphates, there 
 is an accumulation of fertilizing material that salt makes 
 available. The lime and phosphoric acid lock up what 
 the salt liberates. As good results were obtained with 
 one quarter salt and three quarters phosphate, "as from 
 all phosphate without the salt. The salt and phosphate 
 in equal parts produced a fine crop of corn on a mucky 
 soil. Two hundred pounds of salt on three-fourths of 
 an acre gave me the best crop of German millet I ever 
 grew. It will be found valuable with quinces, pears, 
 plums, peaches, and apples. 
 
 Heavy soils will usually be found to contain enough 
 potash, but in an insoluble condition. Ordinarily a 
 good top dressing of salt will make this potash available 
 to promote a fruitful condition. The German potash 
 salt, kainit, and muriate of potash will be found service- 
 able to most orchards. Nitrogenous manures stimulate 
 the growth of leaves more than the fruit. The mineral 
 manures, such as potash and salt, aid most in perfecting 
 the fruit, especially the seeds, the thing of greatest effort 
 in Nature's laboratory. 
 
 The value of any fertilizer is determined by the amount 
 of potash, phosphoric acid, and nitrogen it contains. 
 Nitrogen is expensive as an ingredient in the commercial 
 fertilizer, and if it can be obtained free from the air, it 
 will be a very great saving to us. 
 
 "The atmosphere is chiefly composed of oxygen and 
 nitrogen ; and water, of oxygen and hydrogen ; and as 
 there is always in the air more or less water, the element 
 hydrogen is always present. Now under certain circum- 
 stances, the nitrogen and hydrogen combine in the air and 
 form ammonia. The oxygen and hydrogen in the air are 
 supposed not to be united in a chemical combination, but 
 to form merely a mixture. Hence this nitrogen is called 
 the free nitrogen of the air, as distinguished from that in 
 ammonia, which is not free." 
 
MANURES FOR THE QUINCE. 39 
 
 Accepting the theory of the chemists, that '^ somehow 
 or other plants take nitrogen from the air," it is probable 
 that they take it in the form of ammonia, and not as 
 free nitrogen. But free or combined, it is evident from 
 experience that most soils will be improved by the appli- 
 cation of a quantity beyond all that is supplied from the 
 air. The fact that the leaves of plants absorb gases should 
 convince us that they may take nitrogen, either free or 
 combined, though it does not combine very readily with 
 other substances. Lawes and Gilbert, from experiments 
 conducted under glass, concluded that plants could not 
 take up the free nitrogen of the air. Professor Atwood, 
 from experiments conducted in the open air, arrived at 
 the opposite conclusion. 
 
 The supply of phosphoric acid from ground bones is 
 never out of place in the quince orchard ; and if the 
 bones are first treated with sulphuric acid, their action 
 will be more speedy. Bones in lye, or hard wood ashes 
 kept wet for a very long time, will become useful without 
 grinding, as they soften and crumble. 
 
 The quince is a great feeder, and has the faculty of 
 using all kinds of manures. When I plant trees I fill 
 the large holes with rich earth. The chip dirt of the 
 wood pile mixed with the top soil of the hole is good. 
 The surface soil of the poultry-yard to the depth of two 
 or three inches is excellent. Road wash from the gutters 
 of the highway does well ; and better still are the glean- 
 ings of the street gutters of the village. Trees well set in 
 these rich earths grow well to a bearing age, when they 
 should be annually supplied with plenty of good manure. 
 Their annual growth is a safe guide to needed treatment. 
 If the shoots grow less than a foot every year, they need 
 feeding or pruning, and probably both. Manure may 
 be applied to the trees by all the usual methods at 
 any season of the year, but better in the fall and spring 
 than late in summer. Old and feeble trees have been 
 
40 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 rejuvenated by liberal manuring combined with judicious 
 pruning. A feeble or a starved tree, if it bear at all, will 
 only yield small fruit of indifferent quality. As much 
 as ten bushels of salt may be sown on an acre if the soil 
 is good ; but a poor soil will not bear heavy salting with- 
 out injury. 
 
 Many will not be able to secure all the manure they 
 need from common sources, and will of necessity have 
 recourse to chemical fertilizers. To such I would recom- 
 mend ammonia, about three per cent (the sulphate of 
 ammonia may be bought, of twenty-five per cent purity); 
 phosphoric acid, about ten per cent, equal to phosphate 
 of hme twenty per cent ; potash, about twelve per cent, 
 equal to sulphate of potash twenty-two per cent ; salt 
 (chloride of sodium), about ten per cent, and lime five 
 per cent, with about three per cent of magnesia. If 
 they are not in the soil, add a little silica and iron. If 
 the soil is heavy and clayey, the rest of the mixture may 
 be sand or silica. If it is sandy, then muck will be found 
 excellent. If the soil is in good proportions, these va- 
 rious fertilizers may be applied without being mixed, in 
 quantities according to the judgment of the horticul- 
 turist. Full-bearing trees will be benefited by an in- 
 crease in the amount of potash, as the fruit contains a 
 much larger proportion of this than the wood. Decayed 
 vegetable matter, or humus, in the soil acts as a solvent 
 of all its mineral elements to make them available as 
 plant food, especially the potash. Cotton-seed meal, with 
 the addition of a little phosphoric acid and potash, is 
 a good manure ; but the cost will be considerably re- 
 duced by feeding the meal to cattle and using the 
 manure. 
 
LOCATION, TRENCHING, ETC. 41 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 LOCATION— TRENCHING-DRAINAGE-CLTLTIVATION. 
 
 Location. — The planter should select the best spot 
 at his command. In deciding which is best, he will 
 need to consider well the kinds of soil as well as their 
 location, and secure the greatest number of the conditions 
 of success. If his valley is wet and subject to frost, he 
 must go up on the hill-side, and, if need be, plant on the 
 hill-top. 
 
 As to aspects, any may be selected when the other 
 conditions are equally favorable. A northern aspect is 
 to be preferred, where the season is long enough to insure 
 the ripening of the fruit, because it is safer from late 
 spring frosts. In the Middle and Southern States this 
 will generally be the case. A southwest exposure will 
 have advantages at the North, because, when there is a 
 frost, the morning sun will be more gradual in its effects. 
 For a like reason, trees near a large body of water escape 
 frost by its ameliorating influence ; and in case of frosts, 
 the slight fogs that may rise soften the rays of the 
 morning sun enough to prevent the injury of a sudden 
 thaw. On the banks of a small stream in a deep ravine 
 would be a bad location almost anywhere in the Northern 
 States, because of the danger from frost. 
 
 Trenching. — One of the objects of trenching is to 
 improve a soil that is too sandy by the admixture of clay 
 from a suitable subsoil beneath it. If the subsoil is not 
 clayey, then the surface soil must be improved by clay 
 top -dressings and the coarser manures. If farm-yard 
 manure has been composted with peat, swamp muck, or 
 river mud, it is all the better. The trenching may be 
 done either by the spade or the ploAv. If done by hand, 
 go down twice the depth of the spade, and the work will 
 
42 QUINCE CULTUKE. 
 
 be efficient. If done with a plow, the furrow slice 
 should be narrow, that the whole of the ground may be 
 thoroughly pulverized very deep. Where we find a light 
 sandy or mucky soil on a compact subsoil, it may be well 
 to cross-plow, the more thoroughly to mingle the two 
 together. 
 
 Drain-age. — Whenever it is found best to underdrain, 
 the method should depend on facilities. Where there are 
 plenty of cobblestones, it is a good plan to place them in a 
 suitable ditch, and cover them so as to leave the surface 
 much as it was before the drain was dug. This will be best 
 in many parts of the country. In sections destitute of 
 such material, tiles become a necessity. The ditch is better 
 made between the rows of trees, so as to be reached only 
 by the smaller roots ; and for the same reason it is well 
 to cover the joints of the tile. Three feet may be deep 
 enough; but always make sure that the fall to the outlet 
 is sufficient to carry out the water. Land that needs 
 draining at all is never likely to be made too dry by good 
 nnderdrains between the rows of trees. Some prefer 
 open drains to tile or cobblestone. If proper drainage 
 has not been secured before the planting of the trees, it 
 will pay to do it afterward. The drains, however, must 
 always be so placed as to carry off the water. 
 
 Cultivation. — The importance of thorough cultiva- 
 tion for this fruit can not be too well understood. Clean 
 culture is helpful in avoiding the borers, because it leaves 
 no weeds and grass around the tree to make a shelter for 
 them. If the ground is stirred often, besides keeping 
 it free from weeds, it will absorb a much larger por- 
 tion of nitrogen from the air, and so be enriched. The 
 atmosphere presses it into the soil with a weight equal to 
 a column of water thirty-three feet high; and if it is con- 
 stantly kept pulverized its power of absorption is greatly 
 increased, and it is much less affected by drought. 
 
 The quantity of water evaporated from a soil well 
 
LAYING OUT THE OKCHARD. 
 
 43 
 
 tilled is surprisingly less than from a like soil untilled. 
 The experiments at the Massachusetts Agricultural Col- 
 lege, with a light sandy soil stirred four inches deep, 
 showed an evaporation of 542 barrels of water in seven 
 days from an acre, while a like soil undisturbed evapo- 
 rated 1,276 barrels a week ; a saving of nearly 105 barrels 
 a day. A heavy clay soil cultivated four inches deep 
 evaporated 904 barrels an acre, while 1,020 barrels were 
 lost from a similar acre undisturbed during the week ; a 
 saving of about 17 barrels a day by cultivation. Similar 
 experiments in New York at the Experiment Station 
 showed similar results. The crops that have been pro- 
 duced on a poor soil by most thoroughly working it are 
 a demonstration of its great value to all crops. It may 
 be well to stir the surface every week of the growing 
 season. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 LAYING OUT THE ORCHARD. 
 
 It is desirable to have the trees of an orchard in 
 straight rows, not only for beauty, but for convenience 
 
 ^ ^\ 
 
 Fig. 14, — LAYING OUT IN SQUARES. 
 
 in cultivation. If the rows are begun crooked, the diffi- 
 culty will increase as the planting progresses ; but if the 
 
44 
 
 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 first row is straight, and the distance from tree to tree 
 equal, ths added rows are easil}? made to correspond. 
 
 The two methods of laying out an orchard are in 
 squares, and in triangles and hexagons, commonly called 
 
 Fig. 15,— LAYING OUT IN QUINCUNX. 
 
 quincunx. Most orchards are laid out in squares, but 
 in equilateral triangles the ground will hold about one- 
 seventh more trees at the same distance apart. There is 
 no way to set as maay equidistant trees on an acre as in 
 equilateral triangles. To lay out the ground in squares, 
 the first thing is to form a right angle, which will be in- 
 
 cluded between two lines six and 
 
 eight 
 
 feet lonff, con- 
 
 16.— QUINCUNX BY CIRCLES. 
 
 nected by a third line ten feet long, as shown in the figure. 
 Having formed this right angle, the extension of the six 
 and eight feet lines will show where the rows of trees 
 are to be planted at any desired distance. Parallel lines 
 will show where to plant the successive rows till the 
 
LAYING OUT THE ORCHARD. 
 
 45 
 
 whole plot is planted. A ten-foot pole may be used in- 
 stead of a line or cord to lay out the angle. If exact 
 measurements are made there will be little need of 
 sighting the rows. 
 
 The quincunx plan is simply to lay out the orchard m 
 equilateral triangles. Whatever distance be decided on 
 
 Fig. 17.— FIXED MAEKER. Fig. 18.— ADJUSTABLE MARKER. 
 
 between the trees will be the length of the radius of a 
 circle, which can be easily swept with a cord of that 
 length, or by a marker for this purpose. The fixed raark- 
 'er is made by nailing two light strips to stakes the width 
 apart for the distance from tree to tree. The adjustable 
 marker has one of the stakes 
 movable on a bar, and fast- 
 ened with a key at any de- 
 sired distance. 
 
 I have found no way so 
 convenient as to make a tri- 
 angle of narrow boards the 
 desired length, nailed at the 
 ends, and with braces from 
 each point to the middle of 
 the opposite side, fastening 
 well at the intersections. Having a base line, I move 
 this triangle along from one tree to another, making 
 holes and setting trees at the points. Repeat the oper- 
 ation for each row till the trees are all planted. 
 
 Besides the gain of about one row in seven over squares, 
 
 Fig. 19.— MOVABLE TRIANGLE. 
 
46 
 
 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 the quincunx plan allows of cultivation all ways, which 
 keeps the ground in fine condition with the least labor. 
 Laid out in squares fifteen feet apart, an acre will take 
 
 Fig. 20. — LOCATING BOABD. 
 
 two hundred trees ; in quincunx, at the same distance, it 
 will take two hundred and twenty-two trees. At twelve 
 feet in squares it will take three hundred and two, and 
 
 Fig. 21. — LOCATING BOARD IN USE. 
 
 in quincunx three hundred and seventy. At ten feet in 
 squares it will take four hundred and thirty-five, and in 
 quincunx four hundred and ninety- seven trees for an acre. 
 
TRANSPLANTING THE QUINCE. 47 
 
 After the peg is placed for the location of the tree, it 
 will be found convenient, when the triangle is not used, 
 to have a board seven or eight feet long with a notch on 
 one side in the middle and a hole at each end equidistant 
 from the notch. Place the board so that the notch will 
 receive the peg, and stick a pin through each hole. Lift 
 the board, leaving the pins, and dig the hole for the 
 tree. Replace the board on the pins, and set the tree in 
 the notch, and it will be sure to stand where the marking 
 peg was driven. With pins enough to do this, the entire 
 orchard may be laid out before a tree is set. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 TRANSPLANTING THE QUINCE. 
 
 No part of culture is more important than transplant- 
 ing, and, as generally practised, none is done so badly, or 
 with less regard to the principles involved. The digging 
 often robs the tree of nearly all its fibrous roots, and the 
 planting crowds what few are left into the smallest hole 
 that will hold them ; so that, between the careless digger, 
 and the thoughtless planter, the tree dies ; or, if it lives, 
 makes a feeble growth, and never affords satisfaction to 
 any one. 
 
 How and when to transplant are the two chief points 
 on which depend success or failure. In taking up a tree 
 great care is necessary to preserve all its roots, large and 
 small. If every root and rootlet could be preserved in- 
 tact, and then well placed in the new location, there would 
 be but little check to its growth. The nearer we come 
 to this the better the prospect of success. The length 
 of the roots being reckoned equal to the hight of the 
 tree, we can tell about how far from the base of the tree 
 
48 
 
 QUINCE CULTUEE. 
 
 we should begin to dig to get under the outer portion of 
 its roots. What is commonly called a forked spade is 
 the best implement I have used, as it does not cut the 
 roots, and bruises them but little. The digger should 
 stand with his side toward the tree, and this fork will 
 then go down so as to lift the roots entire, by work- 
 ing from the outer ends to the tree. The larger share 
 of fibrous roots will be found comparatively near the 
 surface. 
 
 As soon as the tree is dug, earth must be thrown over 
 
 Fig. 22. 
 
 GOOD AND BAD DIGGING. 
 
 Fig. 23. 
 
 its roots to keep them from drying by sun or wind. A 
 cloudy day is desirable, and is all the better if damp and 
 without wind. 
 
 If the tree has been raised from seed it will have a tap- 
 root ; but if from a cutting there will be only laterals to 
 care for. If any roots are bruised or broken in digging, 
 it will be well to pare off the bruised parts smoothly, and 
 cut the ends of broken roots with a slant upward, so 
 that the callus formed will emit roots downward from 
 these cut ends. 
 
 The hole for the tree should be about two spades deep, 
 
TRANSPLANTING THE QUINCE. 49 
 
 and wider than the roots are long. In most soils it pays 
 to dig a hole from four to six feet across to plant a one 
 .year old tree, and still wider for older trees. Throw out 
 the subsoil by itself, and either spread it around on the 
 surface, to be acted on by sun, rain, and frost, or to be re- 
 moved for other uses. The top soil is then filled into the 
 bottom of the hole, and the tree set on this so as to be a 
 little deeper than it was before. Fill in among the roots 
 with rich soil rather than manure ; for though it may be 
 well rotted, it will be generally too dry, and if fresh will 
 injure by the fungi it produces. Eich manuring on the 
 top of the ground after the tree is planted will promote 
 a vigorous growth. When the hole is nearly filled, a 
 very liberal mulch of leaves, straw, or any such material 
 should be well spread in, and covered up with earth. It 
 will prevent the tree from suffering in drought, promote 
 the absorption of nitrogen from the air, and by rotting 
 become a good fertilizer. If the tree has large roots, 
 great care is needed to insure them against hollows that 
 produce decay. A little water may be needed to make 
 sure that the earth presses against every part. After 
 the operation is well performed, watering on the surface 
 will not be needed, as the mulch prevents evaporation. 
 If so watered at transplanting as to get the earth well 
 pressed against the roots, and then properly mulched, 
 trees will never need watering again, except by natural 
 rains. 
 
 How much room to give the quince depends on cir- 
 cumstances and surroundings, and the form of head de- 
 sired. Such writers as Cole, Thomas, and Downing rec- 
 ommend six, eight, ten, and twelve feet apart. I have 
 tried them all, and decided on fifteen feet as being close 
 enough for the highest success. By studying the possi- 
 bilities of this fruit, we must decide how wide we will 
 plant. Sometimes a quince tree exceeds all expectation. 
 In 1857 there was a quince tree near Geneva, New York, 
 
50 QUrKCE CULTURE. 
 
 that was thirty feet high, with a trunk six feet around, 
 and had branches extending over a circle seventy-five 
 feet in circumference. It was thought to be the largest 
 quince tree on record. I have read of a tree on a thorn 
 root that produced five bushels a year. On this root 
 the quince is long-lived. But I have seen the trees 
 over sixty years old on their own roots, and still bearing 
 well. 
 
 The size of a tree most desirable for transplanting 
 must necessarily vary with circumstances. As a rule, 
 young and thrifty trees will grow best, because they lose 
 a smaller proportion of their fibrous roots. Large trees 
 are more likely to be checked by transplanting, because 
 of the greater loss of roots. If the tree to be trans- 
 planted has not been cut back so as to reduce the top to 
 a good proportion with the roots before being set, it 
 must not be forgotten afterward, as much depends on 
 this. If there has been a great loss of roots, as is often 
 the case, it is better to reduce the top very severely, 
 perhaps to one or two buds of the new wood. The tree 
 will be larger at the end of the season's growth, and of 
 better form. 
 
 A suitable preparation of the ground is more conven- 
 iently made before the trees are planted. No pains 
 should be spared to so prepare the ground that it will 
 exactly supply every want of the trees, and at once push 
 them into a vigorous growth. If not well prepared 
 then, no after labor can fully supply the deficiency. 
 The importance of thorough work was illustrated by the 
 experience of a man who had a hundred trees to set, and 
 going from home for a day, left a man to plant them in 
 his absence. Returning at night, he was offended with 
 his help because he had only set nine of the hundred. 
 So he discharged him, and next day planted the ninety- 
 one remaining himself. But, to his surprise, when they 
 bore, the crop from the nine was worth more than that 
 
TRANSPLAJfTIJ^G THE QUINCE. 
 
 51 
 
 of the ninety-one. In tree planting, as elsewhere, '* haste 
 makes waste." If worth doing at all, it is worth doing 
 right. 
 
 The quince should not be planted in grain or grass, 
 and especially a clover sod. Lovn^, hoed crops, like beans 
 or turnips, can be cultivated among the trees when small, 
 because their culture necessitates fertilizing and stirring 
 the ground ; but as soon as the trees get large, nothing 
 else should be allowed to grow among them. If the 
 roots happen to get frozen while above ground, they will 
 die if thawed in the air ; but if buried in the soil, and 
 
 Fig. 24. Fig 25. 
 
 TWO METHODS OF HEELING. 
 
 allowed to thaw there, they will live and grow. To 
 freeze and thaw in the earth does them no apparent harm. 
 If a tree has become dry and shriveled in transpor- 
 tation, its plumpness may be restored by burying both 
 top and roots for a few days ; but if put in water, it 
 may become water-soaked, and so fail. The stem and 
 branches of a newly transplanted tree may be greatly 
 benefited by watering before the leaves appear, especially 
 when there has been much loss of the roots. "When the 
 trees come to the planter from a nursery, it is best to 
 heel them in at once ; for there is no way in which they 
 can be kept so well as in the earth. Once properly 
 heeled in, the planter can take time to plant each tree. 
 
52 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 Trees received in the fall for spring planting can be 
 kept in this way in good condition, and will be ready to 
 pla,nt earlier than where the planter waits till spring be- 
 fore ordering them, because in the hurry of spring work 
 some must necessarily wait. 
 
 If trees are heeled-in in bundles, those inside are not 
 I)ressed by the earth, and become dry. If the trees slope 
 toward the south, they will not thaw out as soon in 
 spring, as the tips shade the ground toward the sun. 
 Heeling-in erect is only recommended where there is 
 danger from mice. The place for heeling-in should be 
 high enough to secure freedom from all danger of the 
 trees becoming water-soaked. A sheltered situation is 
 most desirable. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 WHEN TO TRANSPLANT— KEEPING A RECORD— EF- 
 FECTS OF WINDS— STRAIGHTENING TREES. 
 
 The best season to transplant is when the sap is compar- 
 atively dormant, between the fall of the leaves in autumn 
 and the development of the buds in spring. To decide in- 
 telligently what is the best time to transplant we should, 
 as far as possible, take into account the various agents 
 that influence vegetation, such as the relative warmth of 
 the soil and atmosphere, and the mildness or severity of 
 the climate in winter. Then, again, the nature of the 
 soil will be an important consideration, as also the facility 
 for doing the work in the best manner. 
 
 The greatest difference between the mean temperature 
 of the earth and the air is in October, w-hen the earth a foot 
 below the surface is from a degree to a degree and a half 
 
WHEIT TO TRAN^SPLAITT, ETC. 53 
 
 above the mean temperature of the air. Some soils are 
 much warmer than others, and serve as a natural hot-bed 
 for the roots of the newly-set tree, eucouraging the for- 
 mation of a callus on cut and bruised roots as well as the 
 emission of many new roots, and so preparing for a 
 vigorous start in the spring, as well as a successful win- 
 tering. The greater cold of the air prevents the buds 
 from starting until the warmth of spring, when vegeta- 
 tion generally becomes active. 
 
 Where the climate is too cold for the newly-set 
 trees to carry forward the healing of cut and bruised 
 roots, which is the case where winter sets in early, and 
 the ground freezes as deep as the roots extend, there will 
 be great danger from fall planting. The freezing and 
 thawing of all heavy soils operates greatly to tlie disad- 
 vantage of all newly-planted trees. In warm, dry, and 
 sandy soils, if the setting is well done any time before 
 winter begins, or even during the mild spells of winter, 
 success is a reasonable expectation. 
 
 The soil is cold in the spring, and is much more 
 slowly heated than the air, which stimulates the buds, 
 and new leaves are developed more rapidly than the 
 roots, and, as a consequence, the reduced roots of the 
 transplanted tree are heavily taxed to supply the needed 
 moisture. Now unless the top was cut back in pro- 
 portion to the roots, the tree will suffer, and may die. 
 Often the spring-set tree leaves out as well as the fall-set 
 tree, but suddenly dries up and fails because the roots 
 can not supply moisture. It does not matter whether a 
 tree is just set, or has been long established, if moisture 
 does not get into its top as fast as it dries out the tree 
 will die, in the summer or winter, fall or spring. 
 
 Trees set in the fall are in more favorable circumstances 
 to get the benefit of the winter and spring rains to settle 
 the earth among their roots ; and being thus established, 
 they are ready to commence new growth in the first warm 
 
54 QUINCE CULTUKE. 
 
 days of spring. Now where this is delayed till spring, it 
 is often quite late before the ground is ready to work ; 
 and if the season be backward, it is all the more impor- 
 tant to have them in their places. Nurserymen generally 
 not only send out the first choice in the fall, but give the 
 trees a more careful handling, as they have more time at 
 command. If not ready to set the trees, it may be better 
 to secure the stock and heel in till ready. 
 
 Spring planting will suit better than fall in Northern 
 latitudes, where the ground freezes very deep, or where 
 the soil is heavy and heaves with frost. At the North 
 the trees are liable to be thrown up by alternate freezing 
 and thawing, and the roots are often injured by being 
 saturated with water in a heavy undrained soil. If the 
 situation is very much exposed, staking may save the 
 rootlets from being twisted off. If delayed till spring, 
 always do this work as early as the circumstances will 
 allow. 
 
 Keeping a Record. — When different varieties of 
 quinces have been planted in the same orchard, it will be 
 useful to preserve a record or map of the location of 
 each variety, as the labels on the trees soon fade, and 
 memory is not to be trusted in years of change. Such a 
 record will be found valuable for the use of new propri- 
 etors, and, in case of the death or removal of the planter, 
 will be of much importance. N'o system of labeling can 
 be of equal value. 
 
 Effects of Wind. — Whether winds will benefit or 
 injure trees will depend on their character, and the 
 degree of force with which they move. The swaying of 
 the limbs and branches of trees as they are moved by the 
 common winds that blow in every direction are beneficial, 
 serving for them the purpose that exercise does for the 
 animal creation. All know that exercise strengthens and 
 promotes growth, and only becomes injurious when it is 
 
PROPAGATION OF TEE QUINCE. 55 
 
 excessive. So with the motions of trees produced by 
 winds, especially during the growing season. 
 
 "The mild wind blows 
 And beauty glows," 
 
 but when the storm king rides on the wings of the wind 
 in the sweeping hurricane, what was a benefit becomes 
 an injury. Experiment has shown a diminished growth 
 in the part of a tree not moved by the wind, and that 
 wind-breaks are very desirable to prevent excessive sweeps 
 of winds and storms. 
 
 Straightening Leaning Trees.— Trees in an or- 
 chard are often seen out of an erect position, which may 
 arise from winds or other causes. In all such cases it 
 will add to beauty and the convenience of culture to 
 straighten up the leaning trees. This is easily done by 
 setting a stake a little distance from the tree, and then 
 fastening the tree to it with a wire or cord, thus securing 
 it in a perpendicular position during the growing season. 
 I have found a single year's growth in the desired posi- 
 tion all that was necessary for permanence. It is best 
 to do this when trees are quite small ; or, if large, when 
 blown oyer, without delay. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 PROPAGATION OF THE QUINCE. 
 
 The quince may be multiplied from seeds, cuttings, 
 and layers. The seed of a species will always produce its 
 kind, but the seed of a variety is uncertain. If propa- 
 gated from layers or cuttings, or by grafting or bud- 
 ding, the trees will always be of the same variety as the 
 parent tree. 
 
 1. Propagation by Seeds.— All the recent varieties 
 
66 
 
 QUIi^CE CULTURE. 
 
 of merit seem to be chance seedlings, which suggests that 
 seed should be selected from the best specimens of the 
 choicest varieties, that there may be still further im- 
 provement. Quince seed for planting should never be 
 allowed to get thoroughly dried before it is planted. If 
 not convenient to plant when taken from the fruit, 
 preserve it in moist sand till spring, when, in a well- 
 prepared seed-bed, it should be covered two or three 
 inches deep, and treated as other seedlings. Any one 
 desiring to improve the quince by seedlings will do well 
 
 Fig. 26.— LAYERING. 
 
 to study the theories of Van Mons, of Belgium, and 
 Knight, of England, as described by Downing. 
 
 2. Propagation" by Layers. — It is a very simple 
 operation to bend down a limb, and keep it covered with 
 moist earth till it is rooted, and then cut it from the 
 parent tree. If the bent branch is partly cut off or slit 
 up under a bud, or twisted like a withe at the lowest 
 point, it will help both the bending and rooting. A wire 
 twisted around the layer just below the bottom bud in 
 the ground, and holes punched through above and below 
 
PROPAGATION^ OF THE QUINCE. 
 
 57 
 
 the wire, may help ; or the holes may be made through 
 the layer in the buried portion to stimulate its rooting 
 from the callus of the wounds. The bark is sometimes 
 cut nearly around the layer just below a bud, and bits of 
 wood removed below this cut to induce the formation 
 of a callus, from which roots are emitted. It is some- 
 times necessary to fasten down stiff branches with a 
 forked peg or a weight. Young shoots of thrifty trees 
 make the best layers. Early spring is the best time to 
 put down layers, that they may be well rooted by autumn. 
 Mound Layers or Stool Layers differ from the others 
 
 Fig, 27. — ^MOUND OR STOOL LAYERING. 
 
 by having the earth heaped up around them instead of 
 being buried in the earth. The sprouts from stumps or 
 around growing trees, being well banked up, will readily 
 root as high as moist earth presses against them. 
 
 3. Propagation by Cuttings is probably the best 
 method of multiplying quince trees. Cuttings of large 
 branches are better than those of small shoots. The 
 amount of wood seems to measure the vital force to form 
 both roots and tops. From twelve to fifteen inches is a 
 good length, enabling us to plant deeply, and so guard 
 against drought. Small cuttings may be cut shorter, and 
 
58 
 
 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 have a piece of apple or quince root grafted on to push 
 them. The chief thing is to guard against the exhaus- 
 tion of sap by evaporation until roots are formed. Fa- 
 cilities for regulating light, heat, air, and moisture with 
 precision will enable us to succeed with a succulent cut- 
 ting furnished with a few leaves. When the air is 
 
 Fig. 28.— LARGE CUTTING. 
 
 Fig. 29. — ROOT-GRAFTING. 
 
 warmer than the earth, buds are excited more than roots; 
 and when the ground is warmest, root growth is most ex- 
 cited. Hence the custom of burying cuttings inverted 
 during the winter, to keep the buds dormant while a 
 callus is forming for the emission of roots. 
 
 In preparing the small cuttings to receive the pieces of 
 roots grafted on them, the chief thing is to have their 
 
PROPAGATION OF THE QUINCE. 59 
 
 cut ends fit, so that the inner bark shall match at least 
 on one side and at the end of the cutting. 
 
 These grafted cuttings may be quickly dibbled in. 
 making a hole deep enough to receive the whole length 
 except a bud or two above the surface. Holding the 
 cutting in the hole at the right depth with the left 
 hand, push the earth firmly against the cutting with the 
 dibble, as you would in planting a cabbage. For lack of 
 such firming the earth there are many failures. 
 
 The fall, after the leaves have dropped, is generally 
 preferred for taking the cuttings ; but they may be taken 
 
 Fig. 30.— ROOT CTTTTIKO. 
 
 much later. I have had some cuttings grow in the open 
 air, which were made in May, after the trees were growing. 
 
 Root Cuttings a foot or so long are best prepared be- 
 fore the buds swell in spring. I have trees from pieces 
 of roots cut off by the plow as late as June. Plant at an 
 angle of about forty-five degrees, or as near as you can to 
 their natural position. 
 
 4. Propagation by Grafting is successful where the 
 inner barks of both stock and cion are made to fit to- 
 gether. A union forms most readily between varieties 
 of the same species ; next between species of the same 
 genus, and is limited by genera of the same natural order. 
 By this law one variety of quince will do best grafted on 
 
60 
 
 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 another ; and next on the apple, white thorn, and June- 
 berry. On the white thorn it escapes the borer. 
 
 The choice of wood for cuttings is hist year's growth 
 from near the center of the tree. Be sure they are from 
 
 healthy and vigorous trees. 
 If trees are propagated from 
 bearing "^ood they will come 
 into fruit sooner tiian if from 
 ^^' * blind wood. Here is a rea- 
 
 SPLITTING KNIFE AND CHISEL. . 
 
 son tor the diiierence m the 
 bearing age of trees from the same parentage. 
 
 Spring is the best time for grafting, except the root 
 grafting already described. In March we work by the 
 metliods best suited while the bark adheres to the wood, 
 and later by those suited to a bark easily separated 
 from it. 
 
 Cleft Orafting is the most common method, and is 
 done by cutting off the stock smoothly, and splitting it 
 
 Fi^. 32.— CI.EFT GRAFTING. Fig. 33. —SPLICE GRAFTING. 
 
 down from an inch and a half to two inches, according 
 to the size of the stock and the thickness of the cion. 
 Into the cleft set the cion, with the end cut wedge- 
 shaped, the outer edge a trifle thickest, and so placed 
 that the liber or inner bark of the graft and stock shall 
 
PROPAGATION OF THE QUINCE. 
 
 61 
 
 match ; then bind and cover all exposed parts with wax 
 or clay, and the work is complete. 
 
 Splice Grafting or Whip Grafting is only adapted to 
 small stocks. If the stock and cion are of the same size, 
 they will make a perfect match. 
 If one is larger than the other, 
 they will match on one side and 
 end. Cut each with a slope about 
 an inch and a half long, and 
 make a tongue for convenience 
 in matching the parts. Bind to- 
 gether and wax well. 
 
 Saddle Grafting is a modifi- 
 cation of whip grafting easily 
 understood by the illustration. 
 
 Side Grafting is a simple way of propagation free 
 from some of the objections to cleft grafting. It is a 
 very convenient method of inserting a limb to restore 
 a balance to the head, or provide shade for exposed 
 
 Fig. 34.— SADDLE GRAFTING. 
 
 Fig. 35. 
 
 SIDE GRAFTING— TWO METHODS. 
 
 Fig. 36. 
 
 parts. The first method is like budding with the bud 
 extended to a cion. The second is like cleft grafting, in 
 a cut on the side of a tree or limb. 
 
 Crown Grafting differs from side grafting by having 
 
62 
 
 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 the stock cut off as in cleft grafting. It is specially ser- 
 viceable for stocks too large to split, and is best done 
 
 Fig. 37. Fig. 38. 
 
 CROWN GRAFTING. 
 
 when the bark will slip. The stock is not split, but the 
 tongue of the cion is slipped down under the bark as in 
 budding. 
 
 The advantages of cions with only one or two buds are, 
 that they do not dry as soon as longer cions, they 
 
 Fig. 89.— BUDDING KNIFE. 
 
 afford less leverage to winds, and are less liable to be 
 injured by birds lighting on them. 
 
 Fig. 40.— BUDDING KNIFE. 
 
 5. Propagation by Budding follows the same law of 
 affinity observed in grafting. The buds may be taken 
 
PROPAGATION OF THE QUINCE. 
 
 63 
 
 from wood of the growing shoots well matured, or from 
 the preceding year's growth. A cion too late for graft- 
 
 Fig. 41.— STICK OP BUDS. 
 
 Fig. 42.— CUTTING A BUD. 
 
 ing may be treated as a cutting till its buds can be used. 
 
 The bark of a quince tree can be raised for the insertion 
 
 of a bud most of the growing season. The best place to 
 
 insert it is near a bud, or where a bud 
 
 has become a branch, as the supply 
 
 of cambium is there most abundant. 
 
 The bud, with its shield of bark, is cut 
 
 from above or below, beginning to cut 
 
 half an inch off, and so cutting as to 
 
 leave a thin piece of wood under the 
 
 bud. On the stock cuts are made 
 
 like a X- The corners of the bark 
 
 being lifted, we slide the bud to its 
 
 place, and complete the operation by 
 
 winding a ligament of bass or raffia 
 
 around the stock above and below 
 
 the bud, tying it securely. 
 
 Failure may arise from injury to shoot from a bud. 
 
 . -I 1 • • , , . -, . . A, place to tie the stock to 
 
 the cambium in cuttmsr and raism^' saoo<; n, place to cut ojr the 
 
 ° ^ sio:;k afterward. 
 
 Fig. 43.— TRAINING A 
 
64 QUINCE CULTL'RE. 
 
 the bark of the stock, from too narrow a cross-cut to 
 receive the shield of the bud, from using immature 
 buds, from the shield being too short (it should be at 
 least an inch long), and from being loosely tied, so as to 
 dry out. The south side of a stock is dryer in summer, 
 and so is to be avoided. 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 PRUNING THE QUINCE. 
 
 In a natural condition we may regard it as a rule that 
 the tree will maintain a harmonious relation of all its 
 parts. The roots and branches will correspond with 
 each other. Every twig, bud, or leaf removed from the 
 top, and every fiber and spongelet cut oft* from the roots, 
 will hurt or help the tree. No one is competent to re- 
 duce the roots, or diminish the leaves and branches, 
 unless he possesses enough knowledge of the laws which 
 regulate the action of the organs of vegetation to foresee 
 the effect which will follow such removals. J. Lindley 
 truly says: ** If well-directed, pruning is one of the most 
 useful, and, if ill-directed, it is among the most mis- 
 chievous operations that can take place upon a plant." 
 
 1. Pruning at Transplanting. — As already stated 
 elsewhere, all bruised and decayed roots should be re- 
 moved ; but the case is different with healthy roots. AVe 
 must remember that every healthy and unmutilated root 
 which is removed is a loss of nutriment to the plant, and 
 that, too, at a time when it is least able to spare it; and 
 there can not be any advantage in the removal. The top 
 should always be cut back at this time, so as to preserve 
 a balance in its proportion to the reduced roots. If we 
 infringe on the reciprocal action which naturally exists 
 
PRUi^ING THE QUI:N'CE. 
 
 65 
 
 between the roots and branches, evil results will surely 
 follow. The accumulated life-force sets the roots to 
 forming new spongioles, and the buds to developing 
 their leaves ; the elementary substances, which the roots 
 absorb, are acted on by the leaves^ and the new mate- 
 rial thus prepared extends both the roots and branches. 
 If transplanting has been well performed, the tree will 
 need little more pruning than would otherwise be desir- 
 able to promote a more vigorous growth ; but if the roots 
 have suffered in being dug, there will be a decided ad- 
 vantage in cutting back the new shoots to the fewest 
 
 Fig. 44. —PRUNING SHEARS. 
 
 buds that will give the desired form to the head of the 
 tree. 
 
 2. Prun-in-g for Form.— The intelligent and observ- 
 ing horticulturist will find, by starting with a young tree, 
 that he can secure almost any form desired, by judicious 
 pruning. Trees make the most vigorous growth from 
 terminal buds. By cutting off the shoots by upper and 
 under buds the new growth will be upward or downward ; 
 and side buds will give a growth to the right or the left. 
 Keeping in mind the general principle that limbs must not 
 grow so as to cross and chafe each other, I have settled into 
 the practice of cutting back all my trees annually, begin- 
 ning when they are one year old, and following them up 
 as they increase in size and multiply their branches. The 
 
63 QUII^-CE CULTURE. 
 
 cut should be made far enough above the bud to insure 
 its not drying out, and near enough to grow over the 
 end as the tree enhirges. The age of the tree, and its 
 thriftiness or feebleness, must be taken into account in 
 determining how far back to cut. 
 
 The quince tree is naturally inclined to grow into a 
 bushy head, but it also pushes up one or more leaders, 
 and can be trained into a regular tree-form if that be 
 desired. To secure an upright growth, cut back the 
 leader to an inside bud. To spread out branches, cut so 
 as to leave the bud on the outside. Clean off a larsre 
 portion of the little twigs that multiply and die along 
 neglected branches, and besides saving resources, you will 
 
 Fig. 45. — BUDS AND BRANCHES. 
 
 improve the smoothness and beauty of the limbs. The 
 fact that so many of these die along the limbs is Na- 
 ture's admonition to prune the tree. It is quite com- 
 mon for the buds along a vigorous shoot to develop 
 threefold, and it will add to the beauty and symmetry 
 of the form to begin with the young tree and rub off all 
 but the strongest bud ; and where limbs are not wanted, 
 rub all off. This will direct the energy of the tree 
 into the most desirable channels. It is worth while to 
 go over a tree for this purpose a number of times 
 during the growing season, because one strong shoot 
 is worth more than two or three feeble ones having 
 the same amount of material divided between them. 
 
PRUI^IN^G THE QUINCE. 67 
 
 At a (fig. 45) are triple buds at a favorable age to easily 
 rub off supernumeraries. At h they are so far developed 
 as to need the knife to cut off the extras. At c we have 
 the vigorous shoots growing as desired. 
 
 How much to cut back each year is a matter of judg- 
 ment. In a shoot from one to two feet long, cut back 
 about half the length. A growth of three to five feet 
 may be reduced a little more than one-half. Treated in 
 this way, the tree pushes vigorous side shoots, and makes 
 a lower head, which is less affected by winds, is more 
 convenient to keep in order, the fruit is easily gathered, 
 and however heavy the crop, the branches are so stocky 
 they never break. If a cone-shaped head is desired (and 
 this is the ideal form of many), it can be secured by 
 leaving the lower branches longest. The natural flow 
 of sap to the upper branches will be diminished, and 
 increased in the lower, and thus their growth will be 
 proportionally increased. If the branches are nearer 
 than four to six inches, cut out those worst situated, or 
 least likely to be fruitful. A judicious thinning and 
 shortening of crowded and irregular branches will promote 
 both thrift and fruitfulness. When a shoot pushes so 
 strongly as to attract to itself too much of the nutriment 
 of the tree, pinch off the end, and repeat the operation 
 till its buds push like those on the other shoots, till, by 
 compelling an equal distribution of nutriment, all shoots 
 grow in like proportions, if not equally. 
 
 3. Pruning to Promote Growth.— When a stunted 
 tree is cut back judiciously, the remaining buds may be 
 expected to grow with renewed vigor, because the forces 
 of growth are concentrated on a smaller number of buds. 
 The inner bark of a feeble tree is thinner, and the sap 
 vessels smaller ; the more concentrated growth thickens 
 the bark and enlarges the sap vessels; and so there is a more 
 ready flow of all the nourishing fluids, and a consequent 
 increase of growth. In the laboratory of the leaves the 
 
68 QUIKCE CULTURE. 
 
 sap is matured, and as it descends through the bark to 
 the roots it deposits the matter which is added to the 
 tree ; while the part of the sap not thus expended goes 
 into the alburnum, and joins the upward current, com- 
 municating powers unknown to the recently absorbed 
 fluid. What is thus true in regard to a feeble tree is yet 
 more manifest in stronger and older trees. 
 
 To secure all the benefit, the pruning should be done 
 in the winter, when there is the greatest amount of 
 vitality stored up for use the coming season. In the 
 latitude where the ground seldom freezes deep, the tree 
 continues to absorb food by its rootlets, which is dis- 
 tributed over the branches. But when the prunings are 
 wanted for cuttings, they will be found that much 
 stronger for the same reason. I have never taken off 
 cuttings for propagation earlier than December or Janu- 
 ary, though I have no doubt of their success when taken 
 earlier. 
 
 I can not too strongly recommend a severe pruning of 
 feeble young trees, both in the nursery and orchard. If 
 we leave only a bud or two, the concentration of vigor may 
 restore a healthy growth to the tree, which will continue 
 as long as other conditions are favorable. 
 
 4. Pruntkg for Fruitfuln'ess. — The general law 
 is, that excessive growth and great fruitfulness can not 
 co-exist in the same plant. Accordingly, a number of 
 devices are employed to so far change the growth as to 
 secure the formation of fruit buds. '' The buds of fruit 
 trees which produce blossoms, and those which afford 
 leaves only, in the spring, do not at all differ from each 
 other, in their first stage of organization, as buds. Each 
 contains the rudiment of leaves only, which are subse- 
 quently transformed into the component parts of the 
 blossom, and in some species of the fruit also." From 
 the freaks in Nature's mode of operation, it is plain that, 
 while the various parts of a blossom differ both in ap- 
 
PRUNING THE QUINCE. G9 
 
 pearance and office from the leaves, yet, under some cir- 
 cumstances, they all assume the same appearance and 
 office. Accepting this idea, we are still unable to ex- 
 plain how or why a given course of treatment causes a 
 tree to convert a part of its buds into flowers, by forming 
 their leaf-scales into calyx, corolla, stamens, and pistils, 
 while its other buds become branches clothed with 
 nothing but leaves. 
 
 The period of fruitfulness varies in different species of 
 plants, and in different varieties of the same species. It 
 is often in our power to advance or retard these periods 
 by our methods of cultivation. The law as stated by 
 Lindley is, '*' Whatever produces excessive vigor in plants 
 is favorable to the formation of leaf-buds, and unfavor- 
 able to the production of flower-buds ; while, on the 
 other hand, such circumstances as tend to diminish lux- 
 uriance, and to check rapid vegetation, without affecting 
 the health of the individual, are more favorable to the 
 production of flower-buds than of leaf -buds." 
 
 (a.) Root Prunijig, if performed at the right time, 
 checks too vigorous growth in highly cultivated trees and 
 renders them fruitful. How far from the trunk of tiie 
 tree to cut off the roots must be determined by the size 
 of the tree. Wm. Saunders recommends from three to 
 six feet from the stem, according to the size of the tree, 
 and to perform the operation by digging a circular 
 trench, so as to cut off all the roots. He says: ** If done 
 in August, the supply of sap will immediately be lessened, 
 the wood-maturing principle accelerated, and fruit-buds 
 formed. The operation has been performed in spring 
 with but little benefit, but if done in the fall can not fail 
 in producing the desired results." F. P. Gasson cuts off 
 the roots of a tree four inches in diameter, within two 
 feet of the trunk, only leaving a circle of roots four feet 
 in diameter ; and this, too, after the leaves have fallen in 
 autumn. He fertilizes liberally in the fall with solid 
 
70 QUINCE CULTUKE. 
 
 manure. The following spring and summer he waters 
 well with rich liquid manure, especially if the weather be 
 dry; and besides, gives an annual dressing of lime. As a 
 result of this treatment his trees make short, stiff wood, 
 well supplied with fruit buds. He thins out the small 
 and poor fruit, and then allows the trees to bear full 
 
 Fig. 46.— FIVE YEAR OLD TREE BEFORE PRUNnsTG (From Photograph). 
 
 crops. The pruning is done every second year, widening 
 the circle of roots at each successive pruning. 
 
 The unproductive tree is sometimes brought into bear- 
 ing by being transplanted. The check to growth stops 
 the leaves from consuming the nutriment accumulated 
 in the branches, and which they would have expended in 
 making more wood, and so nutritious matter accumulates 
 and fruit-buds are formed. The same principle is seen 
 to operate in the abundant crops that follow the years 
 
PRUNING THE QUINCE. 
 
 71 
 
 when trees have their crops destroyed by late frosts. An 
 excessive crop so far exhausts the nutritious matter 
 stored in the branches, that the tree takes an off year to 
 recover and lay up for the next. 
 
 (b.) Pruning the Limbs to promote fruitfulness must 
 of necessity be done in the summer, when it will reduce 
 the young wood-growth, and so lead to such an accumu- 
 lation of sap in the branch as will organize the remaining 
 buds to produce fruit. ^' If of two unequal branches 
 
 Fig. 47. — FIVE TEAR OLD TREE AFTER PRUNiNa {From PTiotograph). 
 
 the stronger is shortened, and stopped in its growth, the 
 other becomes stronger ; and this is one of the most 
 useful facts connected with pruning, because it enables a 
 skillful cultivator to equalize the rate of growth of all 
 parts of a tree." 
 
 This shortening of the growing twigs should be done 
 when they are so tender they can be pinched off with the 
 thumb and finger. If the next bud immediately pushes 
 into another extension of the shoot, it will be necessary 
 to pinch off again a little further on, even to the third 
 
72 
 
 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 or fourth time. An excess of wood is tlie occasion of 
 barrenness oftener than is supposed. The tree exhausts 
 its strength in sustaining and extending its woody fiber 
 at so many points, that it has little vigor left to form 
 fruit-buds or mature a crop of fruit. Nature intimates 
 this sometimes by all at once dropping off all the fruit 
 that is set after an abundant blossoming. The outer 
 branches are most fruitful as a rule ; and if the head is 
 kept open the fruit is better. 
 
 The two pictures of one of my trees are an illustration 
 of such an experience. This tree, now eight years old, 
 
 Fig. 48. 
 
 BAD AND GOOD PRUNING. 
 
 Fig. 49. 
 
 BESULT OF BAD PKUNING. 
 
 grew about sixteen inches from the cutting the first 
 year, and was then transplanted, and cut back to within 
 six inches of the. ground. The second year it made a 
 growth of four shoots of about five feet each ; and these, 
 in turn, were cut back to about three feet, throwing out 
 the side shoots that form the head. When five years old 
 it stood eight feet and five inches high before it was 
 pruned. It lias borne since it was three years old, the 
 last crop being one hundred and twenty quinces, the two 
 largest filling a quart can. The longest shoot grown 
 with this crop was six feet and four inches, in the midst 
 of several others only a little shorter. 
 
PRUNING THE QUINCE. 
 
 73 
 
 I have thus far treated of pruning as it should he done 
 with the knife or shears, before the limbs are large 
 enough to need a saw. But when trees have been 
 neglected till large limbs are to be cut off, it is im- 
 portant that they should be so cut as to give a good 
 prospect of healing over ; else they may be the occasion 
 of decay going into the very heart of the tree. If the 
 cut is made several inches from the body, there is no 
 possibility of healing over, and decay is inevitable. On 
 the other hand, if the limb is cut so as not to leave a 
 projecting stump, it may grow over entirely in a few 
 
 Fig. 50.— DECAY FROM BAD 
 PRUNING. 
 
 Fig. 51.— RIGHTLY PRUNED 
 BRANCHES HEALED OVER. 
 
 years, especially if w^ll waxed or painted. As a rule, if 
 the limb cut off is an inch or more in diameter, it is well 
 to cover the wound. Gum shellac dissolved in alcohol 
 to the thickness of paint is as good as any thing to apply. 
 It is very adhesive, soon hardens, keeps out the air and 
 water, and is not affected by weather changes. It is too 
 thin to hinder the lip of the growing bark from closing 
 over the wound. Grafting wax, or a composition of 
 equal parts of resin and tallow, melted and applied with 
 a brush or swab, has been successfully used. A medi- 
 cated tar, made by dissolving half an ounce of corrosive 
 sublimate in half a gill of spirit, and then heating and 
 
74 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 mixing in tar, is found excellent. If too thin to handle 
 conveniently, mix in a little Avhiting or chalk dust. Sal 
 ammoniac or spirits of hartshorn will dissolve the corrosive 
 sublimate more easily than the spirit. It is an insecti- 
 cide, and when a gallon of soft water is used in place of 
 the tar it is a good wash to kill all insects and their eggs 
 on the bark. If nothing better is convenient, a little 
 grease of any kind will have a good effect on the wound. 
 If a limb bleeds when it is cut off, it may be worth 
 while to 2i\)^\y Knighfs Composition of four parts scraped 
 cheese with one part of shell lime, or other pure lime, 
 pressing the composition strongly into the pores of 
 the wood. With this he found he could instantly stop 
 the flow of sap in the largest branch. The worst time 
 to prune is when the sap begins to flow actively in the 
 spring. By contact with the air it sours and becomes 
 poison to the bark. We ought not to close this topic 
 without suggesting, that when the smaller limbs and 
 twigs are cut off a good sharp knife is not always the 
 most desirable implement to use. It often slips and 
 injures what is not intended to be cut away. Small 
 limbs can be pruned more rapidly with a good pair of 
 shears. 
 
 CHAPTER XIL 
 PROMOTING FRUITFULNESS WITHOUT PRUNING. 
 
 1. This may be done by restricting root growth by 
 pruning or cutting in the roots, as described on a former 
 page, and need not be repeated here. 
 
 2. Bending down strong-growing branches without 
 fruit-buds, has been found to retard the circulation of 
 the sap sufficiently to induce fruitfulness. The pendant 
 form becomes fixed by a single season's growth, and may 
 be so skillfully arranged as to secure symmetrical and 
 
FLOWERS AND FRUIT. 75 
 
 ornamental trees. July and August are favorable months 
 to tie down. The branches are secured to pegs driven in 
 the ground. All kinds of trees and plants may be in- 
 duced to flower and fruit, no matter how 
 luxuriant their growth, by a judicious use 
 of the bending process. 
 
 3. Ringing the branches. This is done 
 by taking off a ring of bark wide enough 
 to arrest the circulation of the sap, com- 
 pelling it to accumulate above the ring. 
 The same effect is often produced by a 
 ligature made of wire. The effect is to 
 produce early maturity in the fruit and 
 an increase in its size, but at the ex- 
 pense of its quality. There seems, how- 
 ever, to be no use for this operation on the quince. 
 
 4. Grafting is a method of inducing early fruitfulness. 
 A cion from a young seedling may be grafted on the 
 limb of a bearing tree, and thus be brought into a fruitful 
 condition much sooner than if left on the seedling stock. 
 This is advantageous in testing new varieties. 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 FLOWERS AND FRUIT. 
 
 It has long been observed that a very full blossoming 
 often results in but little fruit ; sometimes none at all. 
 Why is it thus ? A variety of causes may operate to 
 produce the failure of fruit. If the weather be so un- 
 favorable as to prevent the blossoms from performing 
 their appointed work, failure is inevitable. When the 
 weather is very dry while the trees are in bloom the fruc- 
 tification is often too imperfect to set the fruit, and the 
 blossoms dry up and drop off. Or, on the other hand, 
 
76 QUIKCE CULTURE. 
 
 if there happens to be a long wet spell just at the time 
 of blossoming, I have observed that the beating rain pre- 
 vents the blossoms from 23erforming their natural office 
 of fructifying, and failure follows. For the pollen of 
 the stamens to become perfectly matured, it is necessary 
 that the blossoms have a few days of favorable weather 
 after they are expanded, to enable them to fulfill their 
 office. A tree may appear to have but a few blossoms, 
 but with favorable weather for all to become perfected, 
 so that each produces fruit, there may be an excellent 
 crop. As a rule we want our trees to carry too much. 
 
 Again, blossoms will be found to fail because of the 
 severity of the preceding winter. It may destroy the 
 germs of the fruit without killing the other parts of the 
 blossom. In such cases, all will appear to go right for a 
 time; but, as with other things in nature, the antecedent 
 cause will ultimately produce its legitimate effect, and 
 the beautiful blooming proves to be only the forerunner 
 of disappointed hopes. 
 
 Still again, a tree may blossom abundantly, and the 
 fruit set and grow for a while, but all at once the whole 
 falls off. This may arise from the tree being too feeble 
 to sustain the crop set. Like a man with too heavy a 
 load for his strength, he carries it all a little way, and 
 then drops it exhausted. 
 
 Once more, it will be noticed that some varieties are 
 more likely to fail after a full blossoming than others 
 growing near them. This is chiefly owing to the differ- 
 ence of vigor and fruitfulness in different varieties. 
 
 A study of the peculiarities of the different varieties is 
 of great importance to the cultivator. It is a matter of 
 interest to observe that the great number of blossoms 
 provided for in the economy of nature is to secure the 
 certainty of fertility. Many will dry up and disappear 
 as soon as they have done their fructifying work, while 
 those attached to the stems bearinor the fertilized fruit 
 
THINNIKG THE FRUIT. 77 
 
 do not so soon disappear. The petals retain their color 
 and stand out with ])rominence so long after the others 
 have withered away as to suggest a second blossoming. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 THINNING THE FRUIT. 
 
 The story is told of a man who said it took him thirty 
 years to get moral courage to prune his fruit trees. A 
 large proportion of cultivators never attain the courage 
 of their convictions in this matter. By far the most ex- 
 peditious method of thinning fruit is to prune judi- 
 ciously. In some varieties, after having pruned quite 
 severely, there is too much fruit set to be carried to 
 maturity, and a large thinning out is a necessity to pre- 
 vent the trees from overbearing. To many, it seems an 
 unjustifiable waste to pull off the finely-set specimens ; 
 and with a serious doubt as to the wisdom of the oper- 
 ation, they allow their trees to overbear. As an inevi- 
 table result, the fruit is small and inferior, the trees 
 are overtaxed in the effort to mature more than they 
 are able to perfect, and, as a consequence, they must 
 have an off year to rest and recuperate. We hardly 
 realize that a tree is overbearing till the fruit has at- 
 tained considerable size, and then we hate to pull off 
 enough to relieve the strain. I sometimes take off half 
 or two-thirds, and then there is a plenty left to be of the 
 first quality. The number of bushels will be about tlie 
 same, and the quality of the fruit greatly improved. In 
 years of abundance the large fruit will sell when the 
 small finds no market at any price. This difference in 
 the market value of fine fruit and tiiat produced by 
 overbearing trees shows the great importance of properly 
 thinninsr. 
 
78 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 The thinning of quinces should not be done till 
 we can judge pretty well which would fall of them- 
 selves ; and this generally shows quite well by the time 
 they are as large as a man's thumb. Whether this 
 natural thinning is the effect of insect stings, or of dry 
 weather reducing the moisture below a sufficiency, or of 
 a natural selection securing ^' the survival of the fittest," 
 is not always easy to determine. Besides all these reduc- 
 tions, it will often bo best to remove many others from 
 very prolific trees. If, for any cause, thinning has been 
 delayed till the fruit is quite advanced, still it is best to 
 do it, and relieve the strain on the tree. By combining 
 with this thinning of the fruit a thorough cultivation 
 of the soil, a poor variety may excel a better one that is 
 neglected. This will be more especially observable in 
 young trees. They seem to be more easily affected than 
 when older. But even the old trees seem to be rejuve- 
 nated and show fruit improved beyond their possibilities 
 under neglect. 
 
 It is hardly necessary to say that deformed and imper- 
 fect specimens are first to be removed, with any that 
 show signs of insect stings ; and that all wormy fruit 
 should be destroyed or placed where the worms will die 
 ]Jeep burial in the earth will generally kill them ; so will 
 fire or water. If taken as early as it ought to be, the 
 green fruit will have little value as food for any kind of 
 stock. 
 
 CHAPITER XV. 
 
 GATHERING AND MARKETING. 
 
 If the trees have been properly pruned annually, it 
 will be a long time before they are too high to reach 
 the fruit from the ground. When, in time, the fruit is 
 
GATHERING AND MARKETING. 79 
 
 borne too high to reach, a common step-ladder will be 
 found convenient. A cheap and convenient step-ladder 
 may be made out of two pine boards, six inches wide and 
 one inch thick, for sides. The steps should be of the 
 same width, and mortised into them, with a wider board 
 for the top. The bottom should be wide enough to 
 stand firmly, and the top only wide enough for standing 
 room, with a basket for the fruit. 
 
 The stave basket, being smooth inside, and therefore 
 less liable to bruise the fruit, is preferred to the old 
 splinter chip basket. The size used to be for five half 
 
 
 Fig. 53. — A CHEAP STEP-LADDER. Fig. 54. — STAVE BASKET. 
 
 pecks, but now it is generally for four. The old standard 
 crate for shipping fruit was eight inches wide, fourteen 
 deep, and twenty-three and a half long, outside measure. 
 The ends and partition were cut from three-quarter inch 
 pine, seven and a half wide by fourteen inches long. 
 The bottom and top were six and a half wide, and three - 
 eighths of an inch thick. The sides were of four slats of 
 the same thickness, and two and a half inches wide. The 
 whole crate consisted of tliirteen pieces, often with a 
 planed end for marking. These proportions are varied, 
 some being wider and shorter, or narrower and deeper, 
 
80 QUIKCE CULTURE. 
 
 according to the choice of the shipper or maker. 
 Crates being seldom returned as '^ empties, ^^ they are 
 about enough less in capacity than the bushel to cover 
 the cost of the crate. Baskets are now returned, but 
 probably will not be much longer. 
 
 For marketing, as well as for home use, quinces should 
 not be gathered until fully ripe, as they do not, like ap- 
 ples, pears, and peaches, ripen up in color and flavor 
 after t'ney are picked. If gathered too early the quince is 
 comparatively worthless. If the cultivator of the quince 
 does not desire at once to dispose of his fruit, the later 
 ripening sorts can be kept for a long time by being care- 
 fully spread out in a cool chamber till the frost necessi- 
 
 Fig. 55.— FRUIT CRATE. 
 
 tates their removal to the cellar. With proper care 
 quinces may be kept till April in common cellars. 
 Of course, with retardiug-house conveniences all fruits 
 may be kept at will. As a rule, it will be found that the 
 best time to use or sell quinces is soon after they are 
 ripe. If kept too long the demand for them, as with 
 most other fruits, ceases, and they are not sought for. 
 
 There is always a market for quinces in the large 
 cities, and, if the quality is good, at paying prices ; but 
 often the best market will be in some of the smaller 
 cities and towns. The producer will find it advanta- 
 geous to lookout for such markets before the iruit is ripe, 
 so as to know just where to send it when ready. There 
 is a class of customers who always want the best fruit, 
 and are willing to pay for it. The best is found in the 
 end to be the cheapest. 
 
THE PROFITS OF QUIKCE CULTURE. 81 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 THE PROFITS OF QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 The profit of quince raising depends, first, on the vari- 
 ety raised, some being too unfruitful to ever yield profit- 
 able crops ; next, on the skill and care of the cultivator, 
 the best varieties being unprofitable when neglected ; and, 
 lastly, on the demands of markets. Hitherto there has 
 been a market for even poor quinces; but as crops increase, 
 only good fruit will be in demand at paying prices. 
 
 N. Ohmer, of Dayton, Ohio, reported, in 1869, that he 
 had two acres in quinces ; that three-fourths of an acre, 
 ten years planted, had yielded crops six years regularly; 
 and that in 1868 he gathered from three-quarters of an 
 acre 300 bushels, which he sold at 12.50 a bushel, whole- 
 sale. A New York cultivator of the Rea's Mammoth 
 raised on a third of an acre a crop worth $500. I have 
 found a ready market for quinces when well put up in 
 both tin and glass cans, at paying prices, in the markets 
 of New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, and smaller cities. 
 My first planting of the JVIeech's Prolific was only 
 eight feet apart, quincunx, and the trees averaged half a 
 peck when five years old ; doubled it the next year, and 
 trebled it when seven years old. Taking one year witn 
 another, my entire crop has averaged $2.50 a bushel. I 
 found, when the trees were eight years old, that they 
 averaged $1.22 a tree that year, being about $450 an acre. 
 The Rea's has yielded a crop next in value to the Prolific 
 at my place in Vineland, N. J. 
 
 By the report of the New Jersey Horticultural Society 
 for 1884, it will be seen that C. L. Jones had a yield of 
 782, making seven and a half bushels, from two trees in 
 his yard at Newark. He sold many of them at $6 a 
 hundred, realizing $22.50, besides having 200 for himself 
 
83 QUIN^CE CULTURE. 
 
 and friends. The two trees had been ten years planted, 
 and show what can be realized from the most favorable 
 conditions of growth and marketing. From the prices 
 reported in several other States, the successful cultivator 
 of this fruit could not fail to make it profitable. 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 DISEASES OF THE QUINCE. 
 
 Diseases in trees arise from a variety of causes, such 
 as insect depredations, loss of vitality from bacteria, and 
 fungi preying on the living tissue; or there may be organic 
 disease reproduced from unhealthy stocks and seeds. 
 One form of existence is destroyed to produce another. 
 The elements of life by death and decay enter into new 
 forms of life. Disease in one department of nature may 
 provide for a want in another. 
 
 The chief known causes of disease in quinces are 
 bacteria and fungi. They are both low forms of vege- 
 table life, the first multiplying by the division of a single 
 cell, the second producing several spores in a cell. Of 
 the various bacteria, each acts in a way peculiar to itself. 
 Some produce disease, some act as ferments, others assist 
 in the ripening of fruits, and still others aid in the re- 
 generation of organic matter to form cell-structure. 
 
 The fungi are cellular, flowerless plants, which receive 
 their sustenance from the earth or the organized bodies 
 on which they grow. They differ from other plants, in 
 general, in chemical composition, being chiefly nitrogen 
 instead of carbon ; and in their method of growth, ab- 
 sorbing oxygen and giving out carbonic acid. All the 
 higher forms of plant life may have one or more of these 
 low forms to prey on it as a parasite by its absorbing 
 
DISEASES OF THE QUIKCE. 83 
 
 roots or mycelium, or live within it as a saprophyte. A 
 healthy tree possesses sufficient vigor to resist the attacks 
 of diseases, and may grow on successfully when a feeble tree 
 would be destroyed. A fungus may be so concealed in 
 the tissues of a plant on which it is thriving, that its 
 presence will only be known by the mycelium cropping 
 out with spores on the surface. 
 
 1. Quii^^CE Blight. — It seems to be well established 
 that this disease, also called fire hligld and twig Might, 
 is the same as the pear Uight in the pear and the apple 
 hliglit in the apple. The disease has been produced in the 
 June-berry {Amelanchier Canadensis), the 'English Haw- 
 thorn {Cratcegus Oxycantha), and the Evergreen Thorn 
 (Cratmgus Pyracantha), by inoculation, and may prob- 
 ably be so produced in any member of this family of trees. 
 Every part of the tree above ground is subject to its 
 attacks. It may extend only to tender twigs, or it may 
 entirely destroy the tree. The presence of this disease 
 may be recognized by the granular appearance of the 
 bark on the tender twigs, accompanied by the exuding 
 of a gummy substance, of a peculiar odor, quite sticky to 
 the fingers in the morning after a heavy dew, and drying 
 up so as to glisten in the sun, when it forms into granu- 
 lations on the discolored bark. This gummy substance, 
 as seen through a microscope, resembles filamentous 
 threads, each being strung with sacks of bacteria, ready 
 to burst and scatter their infinitesimal germs by the aid 
 of the lightest breeze, or to be washed to the earth by 
 summer showers. The author was aided in examining 
 this gum from a blighted twig by Prof. J. B. Ellis, 
 author of ^^ North American Fungi," and it was found 
 that so little as could be picked up on the point of a pen- 
 knife, put into a drop of water on the glass slide of his 
 microscope, revealed an innumerable number of spores, 
 or bacteria, too small to be described. The stomata of 
 a leaf, examined at the same time, was large enough to 
 
84 QUINCE CULTUKE. 
 
 take in a dozen of them at once. Hence the ease with 
 which the disease may be spread. 
 
 Prof. J. C. Arthur, botanist of the New York Agricul- 
 tural Station, who has given much time to the study of 
 this disease, suggests that ^' The bacteria escape from 
 the tissues in the slimy drops that ooze out from the 
 diseased parts, especially in damp weather. They are 
 washed off and freed from the viscid part by rains, and 
 upon becoming dry are taken up by the winds. Being 
 now suspended in the air, a damp day, dewy night, or 
 light rain would bring them in contact with the delicate 
 surface tissues of fresh cracks or wounds, in the most 
 favorable way to introduce the contagion. This is quite 
 in accordance with the fact that the disease usually starts 
 at the ends of the branches, but also appears sometimes 
 on the larger limbs, and even the trunks. It also ex- 
 plains the fact that the rankest growers are most subject 
 to attack, these exposing more tender surfaces, and, upon 
 the disease obtaining a foothold, furnishing more succu- 
 lent tissues." Insects are almost sure to carry the disease 
 wherever they go, after contact with these exudations. 
 
 Tiie theory that ascribes the blight to bacteria is so 
 well proved that it is needless to notice the older theories 
 which obtained before 1880, when Prof. T. J. Burrill, of 
 Illinois, began experiments to demonstrate this. ^' The 
 bacteria connected with pear blight are all of one kind, 
 and of only one kind : not the bactei'ia of putrefaction 
 or of animal diseases, but a kind that have never been 
 found anywhere except in blighted fruit trees. These 
 have been named Micrococcus amylovorus. The former 
 Avord, the generic name, means very minute bodies; the sec- 
 ond, or specific name, means that they are lovers of starch. 
 They are very minute vegetable organisms, and live on 
 starch or similar substances. They multiply by dividing 
 into two, like the figure 8; these divide again, this process 
 of division and subdivision going on very rapidly." 
 
DISEASES OF THE QUINCE. 85 
 
 The bacterial theory seems to account for all the 
 phenomena connected with this disease. The bacteria 
 found in the disease will produce it from inoculation in 
 about a week; and by the second week the stem and 
 leaves of the twig will be dead, and by the third WTck 
 the disease will be extended down the limb, marking its 
 progress by the brown bark and blackened leaves peculiar 
 to the blight. 
 
 Bacteria may enter through the flowers as well as the 
 tender tissues of the growing twigs, or any opening in 
 the older bark of the trunk and limbs. Xo visible effect 
 is likely to be seen for several weeks. In June, and on- 
 ward for a number of months, it may be seen as branch 
 after branch reveals its presence. It grows very slowly 
 in cold weather, and rapidly in warm and moist weather. 
 
 I have found the annual salting of both quince and 
 pear trees, when done before the spring growth begins, 
 to operate as a preventive ; but can not say there will 
 be none in the future. Later salting has not always pre- 
 vented it. When the disease is manifest, no time should 
 be lost in removing and burning the diseased portions. 
 Be sure to cut far enough below the affected parts to re- 
 move all the disease. 
 
 So long as there remains any portion of the trunk or 
 branches not encircled with the blight, the tree may re- 
 cover. I have trees that have done good service for 
 several years, which were all destroyed except a strip on 
 one side. The diseased parts were cut away, splitting off 
 the blighted wood from one side of the trunk, and the 
 rest has grown well, now nearly covering the split portion. 
 
 Accepting the bacterial theory of the disease, we might 
 propose to control it by spraying the trees with some 
 antiseptic ; but in practice the best thing we can do is 
 to prevent it as far as possible, and diligently destroy 
 every trace of the disease. 
 
 The microscope shows that both leaves and fruit are 
 
86 
 
 QUII^CE CULTUEE. 
 
 more or less protected by a coating of natural yarnish, sup- 
 posed to be wax or silica. Whatever it may be, it is best 
 to observe what soils and fertilizers supply it. Ashes and 
 lime are found to improve the quality of fruit, and it 
 may be assumed, also, that they increase the vigor of 
 growth, and so aid in resisting the attacks of bacterial 
 and fungoid diseases. 
 
 2. Orange Rust (Rcestilia aiirantiaca, Peck ; Ce7i- 
 tridium Cydonice, Ellis). — This fungus affects the stems 
 and fruit of the quince in June and onward. In a single 
 
 Fig. 56.— STEM AT A BUD AS AFFECTED BY THE R^STILIA ATTRANTIACA. 
 
 instance I have seen it on the loaf stalk. The spores 
 are of a beautiful orange color, globose in shape, Avith a 
 membranous envelope, and are produced in sacks or 
 pustules, which form an enlargement on the stems, re- 
 sembling the black knot of plum and cherry trees. The 
 little blackened quinces remaining on the trees after 
 the leaves have fallen, attest its destruction of the fruit, 
 and warn us against its neglect. Once in a while a stem 
 survives its attacks, and so of the fruit. As the disease 
 progresses the granules burst, forcing their sides upward, 
 
DISEASES OF THE QUINCE. 
 
 87 
 
 and opening out with a multitude of cups, notched at 
 the edge, and shedding a profusion of yellow dust, which, 
 as it falls, reminds one of the shower of sparks from an 
 ascending rocket. The cups are bell-shaped, edged with 
 a pretty fringe around their margins ; and are so nu- 
 merous as to entirely girdle the twig or half cover the 
 fruit. 
 
 These cups, called peridia by mycologists, appear to 
 have burst through the outer covering of the bark on 
 
 Fig. 57.— STEM BETWEEN BUDS AFFECTED BY THE R^STILIA AT7RANTIACA. 
 
 the twigs and the skin of the fruit. The cups some- 
 times rise a tenth of an inch above the surface, with the 
 lower parts attached to the substratum. The bursting 
 peridia shed a liberal shower of their golden dust around 
 them, which is scattered by the winds, carrying the spores, 
 or, more strictly, the protospores, because they produce 
 the true spores or fruit, so that each grain of this dust is 
 tlie seed of more of these epiphytal plants. Before the 
 oidium or fungus bursts out in the clusters of cups so 
 prolific of dust, the surfaces of affected parts show numer- 
 
88 
 
 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 ous little elevations or pustules, which become ruptured 
 as ripeness is attained, when the fungus pushes through 
 the opening, at the same time bursting by radiating 
 fissures, and forming a fringed edge of the cups. The 
 fringed edges are often recurved, revealing the orange 
 spores crowded together within. At first, and while 
 contained within the peridium, they are concatinate or 
 
 Fig. 58.— FRUIT AND STEM AS AFFECTED BY THE R^STILIA AURANTIACA, 
 
 chained together ; but when dispersed they are scattered 
 about the orifice, and often mixed with the colorless 
 cells from which they have issued. 
 
 A slice of the fruit cut out before the fungi are matured 
 enough to burst the cells, shows the yellow color of the 
 dust in its granular formation, as confined by the cellular 
 substance of the cups. Each of the protospores con- 
 
DISEASES OF THE QUIKCE. 89 
 
 tained within the peridia may germinate, and produce 
 not only one, but many vegetative spores, which are ex- 
 ceedingly minute, and may be regarded as the embryos 
 of a fresh crop of fungi. If a vertical section be made, 
 the fungi will be seen to spring from beneath, the spores 
 or protospores being clustered at the bottom. The tooth- 
 like fringe is only a continuation of the cellular substance 
 of the cups. 
 
 Tt is possible that the fluid parts of the spores are 
 absorbed by the growing plant, and as the result, the 
 plant has become inoculated with the virus, which is so 
 destructive as often to discourage the horticulturist. It 
 
 Fig. 59.— SPORE OF THE KJES- 
 TILIA, MAGNIFIED 400 
 
 DIAMETERS. Fig. 60.— AI.LORHINA NITIDA. 
 
 requires a great stretch of the imagination to reach the 
 possible limit of their mysterious increase and consequent 
 injury. 
 
 The spores of the Rcestilia aurantiaca are from 
 twenty-five to thirty thousandths of a millimeter in 
 diameter. 
 
 The only effective remedy yet discovered, is to gather 
 and burn the affected parts of stems and fruit before the 
 spores are scattered to spread the disease. 
 
 The RcBstilia aurantiaca on twigs attracts the com- 
 mon green and brown dung beetle, Allorlima nitida. It 
 \s a. scaribwid(e about the size of the common brown May 
 beetle, and very strong. This beetle, though a friend to 
 
90 
 
 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 the quince cultivator, sometimes eats into com and vari- 
 ous fruits. 
 
 3. Quince Leaf Brownness {Morthiera Mespili v. 
 Cydonim, C. and E.). — This fungoid disease of the 
 leaves is indicated by reddish-brown spots, which show 
 on both sides of the leaf, with a small black speck in the 
 center of each spot, which speck, ou being magnified, 
 appears to be four spores in one, each of the four being 
 elliptical, and ending in a thread as long as itself. The 
 
 Fig. 61.— LEAVES AFFECTED BY MORTHIERA MESPILI. 
 
 rounded spots extend into coalescing brown patches, 
 sometimes covering a large part of the leaf. The en- 
 largement of the spots is due to the extension of the 
 mycelium of the spores, which, as the disease progresses, 
 kills the leaves, and they drop to the ground. The older 
 leaves generally show the disease first, and from them it 
 extends toward the ends of the brandies, sometimes nearly 
 defoliating the tree. It occurs on trees of every age. 
 In studying this disease, Soraner put some spores on a 
 
DISEASES OF THE QUIKCE. 
 
 91 
 
 healthy pear leaf, which there germinated, and in two 
 weeks produced the brown spots with the black specks in 
 the center. In the winter he found on the fallen leaves 
 
 Fig. 62.— MORTHIERA MESPILT, MAGNIFIED Fig. 63.~MTCELIUM OP 
 400 DIAMETERS. THE FUNGI MAGNIFIED. 
 
 what he thought to be the same fungus, producing an- 
 other set of spores (ascospores), which became ripe in 
 April and May. Such fungi are able to grow slowly 
 through the winter, ready to spread the disease on the 
 new leaves in the spring. He also found the fun- 
 gus capable of wintering on the bud-scales, without 
 entering on a second stage of development. Young 
 and weakly trees are more susceptible to its attacks than 
 stronger growing trees. The pear and thorn are also 
 subject to its attacks. The only sure remedy is to gather 
 and destroy the leaves. 
 
 4. Yellow Leaf Spots {Hendersonia Cydonice, C. 
 and E.). — This is another fungus on 
 quince leaves, resembling the MortMera 
 mespili, except that the spots on the 
 leaves are yellow and produce a thick- 
 ening of the leaf, with a development 
 on the under side of the spots like the 
 bursting of the cluster cups of the Rcbs- 
 tilia aurantiaca, only smaller. The henderIo^I ct- 
 spores are elliptical, marked with three donta, magnified 
 bars across, dividing them into four 400 diameters. 
 
92 
 
 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 parts, as shown in the cut. The destruction of affected 
 leaves is recommended, especially as many of them are 
 also affected with both of these fungi together. 
 
 5. Leaf Mildew {Podosphcera tridactyla, Wall). — 
 This disease consists of a parasitic white mildew spread- 
 ing interlacing filaments over both surfaces of the leaves, 
 but developed most perfectly on the upper side. The 
 disease appears in June, producing a multitude of color- 
 less spores, which sjiread the fungus rapidly to other 
 leaves and trees. Late in July it produces its fruit 
 
 Fig. 65.— LEAVES AFFECTED BY THE HENDEKSONIA CTBONIA. 
 
 as so many dust-like dots of regular form and size. 
 These round, dust-like specks are the sacks which 
 contain the resting spores, which withstand the rigors oi 
 winter, and reproduce the leaf mildew the next year. It 
 is most thrifty on the leaves of a vigorous tree ; but, 
 with the favor of shade, may thrive on a weakly tree. It 
 is also found on the leaves of apple trees, and proves very 
 injurious to cherry leaves, often causing them to fall 
 prematurely. Sulphur dusted on the leaves when they 
 are wet is recommended as a remedy. 
 
DISEASES OF THE QUINCE. 
 
 93 
 
 6. Leaf Blight. — This is very unlike the leaf blight 
 of the apple and pear. The specimens examined have 
 not yet revealed to us the cause. It first appears on the 
 edges of the leaves ; sometimes on one side only, but more 
 generally reaching nearly all the way around the leaf. At 
 first it is of a reddish brown ; but as it extends inward 
 toward the mid vein, it gradually assumes a deeper hue, 
 till at last it is almost jet black, and covers very nearly 
 all the blade of the leaf. As the disease progresses the 
 
 Yig;. 66.— LEAF blight. 
 
 edges of the tenderer leaves curl upward, and eventually 
 the whole dies and falls. 
 
 7. Quince Rot {Sphceropsis Cydonim, C. and E.). — 
 This disease usually begins at a few points on the surface 
 of the fruit, and spreads regularly in enlarging circles 
 until the whole fruit is decayed. As these spots enlarge, 
 the centers grow dark, and soon may be seen as a mass of 
 black points, which contain a multitude of brown spores, 
 each capable of spreading the disease. A sound quince 
 
94 QUIA'CE CULTURE. 
 
 being inoculated with a piece of the surface of one dis- 
 eased, the spores germinated, and the rotting slowly 
 progressed to the twenty-second day, under a bell glass, 
 when the decayed spot was an inch and a half in diam- 
 eter, and showed fruiting points of the disease. 
 
 So long as the wax-like covering of fruit remains per- 
 fect, it is difficult for the spores of disease to affect it ; 
 but the sting of an insect, the abrasion of a chafing limb, 
 or a bruise will make a way for the germs of disease to 
 enter. Hence the importance of great care in handling 
 the fruit. No other preventive is known for this disease. 
 
 8. Bark Bound or Hide Bound. — This may arise 
 from the depredations of scale insects weakening the 
 vitality of the cells, or it may arise from an undue reduc- 
 tion of the top in pruning or grafting, producing a dis- 
 proportion between the leaves and the numerous cells 
 under the bark, by which their expansive force is weak- 
 ened too much to push out the bark ; or injury to the 
 roots may so far weal^en the power of these cells that 
 they become unequal to the task required of them. Pro- 
 vision is made for the expansion of the bark by the forma- 
 tion of cork-like cells, called suher cells, which expand so 
 as to rupture the outer bark, and allow a proper enlarge- 
 ment of the growing tree. Every tree has its own suber 
 cell, and so the rifts in the bark of each are according to 
 its own peculiar character, no two appearing just alike. 
 When, from any cause, the tree has become harh lound, 
 a slit of the knife will help in doing what these cells 
 failed to perform. The slit should be very carefully 
 made, lest, instead of helping, it injure the tree by its 
 severity. Be very sure the malady exists before the 
 remedy is applied, or great harm may follow. 
 
WINTER-KILLING. 95 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 WINTER -KILLING. 
 
 There is a difference in the hardiness of quince trees. 
 Some varieties endure severe freezing better than others. 
 A variety that lives one winter may die the next because 
 of the changes surrounding it ; and so a tender variety 
 may live, when one naturally more hardy dies. Sudden 
 changes often work disastrously. This was seen in the 
 winter of 1853-4 in a belt of country extending from 
 New York to Michigan. Quince trees and pear trees on 
 quince stocks were greatly injured by rapid successions 
 of very warm and intensely cold weather. The result was, 
 that nearly all the trees that were not sheltered were de- 
 stroyed, or so weakened that they continued to die till 
 late in the summer. The warmth had promoted sap 
 circulation, and the sap, suddenly freezing, formed little 
 crystals in the wood, which lacerated the fibers by every 
 motion of the swaying trees. This cause may be supple- 
 mented by such a freezing and thawing of the limbs and 
 branches as dries the life out of them. In all such cases 
 the injury to trees will be in proportion to the expos- 
 ure, and so the protection of good wind-breaks is of 
 great importance. In that season of such widespread 
 loss, those trees that chanced to be sheltered from the 
 winds escaped. It was also observed that the loss was 
 not so great with trees on clayey soil that shed off the 
 water, as on sandy soil that was filled with water. 
 
 Trees transplanted in the fall, too late for the cut 
 roots to heal, and for all to resume their normal func- 
 tions, may in consequence fail to supply their tops with 
 needed moisture, and they will become shriveled and 
 winter-kill in consequence. The newly-set tree badly 
 planted may suffer by the frost lifting its roots out of 
 
96 QUIKCE CULTURE. 
 
 their places, in which case it is likely to be winter-killed. 
 A mulch sufficient to protect the roots from freezing 
 during the winter is a wise precaution, not only to pro- 
 tect the newly-planted trees from intense cold, but will 
 be a safeguard against winter-killing in those well estab- 
 lished. It has been found highly beneficial to trees to 
 have a mantle of snow cover the ground all winter, be- 
 cause it protects the ground from sudden changes. A 
 winter rain freezing on the limbs will do little harm, 
 unless accompanied by winds, because there is no danger 
 of drying out the sap. The cold may be severe enough 
 to weaken the vitality of fruit-buds, and they may all 
 drop off after they have blossomed. 
 
 Trees are able to endure greater cold in a dry atmos- 
 phere than in a moist one. In elevated situations, trees 
 will endure a severer temperature than in valleys or low 
 down the hill-sides. 
 
 It will operate favorably to so cultivate the trees as to 
 secure an early growth and ripening of the wood, that it 
 may be in the best condition to endure the severity of 
 winter frosts. When stimulated to grow very vigorously 
 late in the season, the young wood is more likely to suffer 
 than that produced earlier in the season. 
 
 The thermometrical and hygrometrical conditions act 
 together, and the hardiness of trees will be determined 
 by the power of the tissues to withstand the pressure 
 that will burst them if they contain too much sap, or to 
 shrivel them by drying out their moisture, and so de- 
 stroying their vitality. 
 
 A wise precaution against winter-killing in sections 
 where there is danger, is not to cultivate late in the 
 season. The culture that stimulates a late growth of 
 soft wood that does not ripen before the severity of 
 winter sets in is to be avoided. The immature wood is 
 easily injure.!, the grain is ruptured by freezing and 
 thawing, and the disorganized cells in spring are no 
 
INSECT ENEMIES. 97 
 
 longer able to perform their office. Secure an early 
 growth of wood, that will ripen in time to be ready for 
 all changes of weather, and you will have the satisfaction 
 of having done wisely. 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 INSECT ENEMIES OF THE QUINCE. 
 
 Entomologists have estimated that, on an average, 
 there are from four to six insect enemies to each variety 
 of plants. The insect enemies of the quince exceed this 
 average, but are not so numerous as the enemies of the 
 apple. Quite a portion of them are alike the enemies of 
 both. 
 
 ATTACKING THE TRUNK AND BRANCHES. 
 
 1. The Round-headed Apple-tree Borer {Saperda 
 Candida, Fabr. ; Saperda hivittata, Say). — This is an 
 American insect, first described by Thomas Say in 1824. 
 Trees growing on high ground are, other things being 
 equal, more largely infested than those on low land. In 
 its larval state it is called the Round-headed Apple-tree 
 Borer, to distinguish it from a flat-headed species, which 
 also preys on the apple, but not on the quince tree. In 
 its imagOj or perfect state, it is commonly known as the 
 Two -striped Saperda. The full-grown larva is about an 
 inch long, cylindrical in form, fleshy, and tapering from 
 the head to the tail. The round head is of a chestnut- 
 brown color, horny, and polished. The jaws are quite 
 black, and fitted to cut the fiber of wood much as it is 
 cut in boring with an auger. The chrysalis is lighter 
 colored than the larva, and is marked by transverse rows 
 of minute spines on the back, with a few at its extremity, 
 which probably aid it in casting off its pupa skin. The 
 
98 
 
 QUINCE CULTUKE. 
 
 insect, in all its stages, will be readily recognized by the 
 accompanying illustrations. 
 
 During the months of May and June this beetle 
 emerges through a round hole, having completed all its 
 changes from the egg to the imago. It comes out in the 
 night, and hides during the day among the leaves, which 
 are now its food. The sexes pair at night, after which 
 the female deposits her eggs in the bark at the collar of 
 the tree. The eggs are the size of a small pin-head, and 
 may be looked for from May till August. Their entire 
 life history embraces about three years. Within about 
 
 mm 
 
 ^'''iiiiijii'''' 
 
 Fig. 67.— Larva. Fig. 68.— Chrysalis. Fig 
 
 ROUNB-HEADED APPLE-TREE BORER. 
 
 Ikctlc. 
 
 two weeks from the laying of the eggs, they hatch into a 
 larva, which penetrates through the bark to the sap-wood 
 the first season, where they form a burrow, and may 
 often be detected by the discolored appearance of the 
 bark of young trees, or by the fine-grained castings they 
 have pushed out of their holes. They remain in the tree 
 three years, becoming each year more destructive. Be- 
 fore the end of this time, as they approach the comple- 
 tion of their larval growth, they cut a passage through 
 the heart-wood of the tree, extending it outward to the 
 bark. These passages are cut very direct up to this 
 point for a future exit, or they may be found turning 
 abruptly back in any direction. With an instinct bor- 
 
IlfSECT ENEMIES. 99 
 
 dering on intelligence, tlic larva now fills the upper part 
 of its hole with its woody dust against the bark ; then 
 turns round and fills it below with woody fibers of the 
 heart- wood, when it again turns its head upward, and 
 there rests till, in the next spring, the matured larva 
 casts off its skin and reveals the chrysalis. In three 
 weeks more the pupa has become a beetle, the soft parts 
 soon harden, and in a few days it makes its way through 
 the castings in the upper end of its passage, cuts a 
 smooth round hole through the bark, about three-six- 
 teenths of an inch across, from which it escapes. 
 
 Eemedies. — The best remedy is to prevent the beetle 
 laying the eggs in the bark of the tree. This may be 
 done by wrapping petroleum paper, or any like substance, 
 around the collar of the tree, letting it reach from the 
 ground high enough to protect it. Alkaline washes 
 have been found distasteful to this insect ; and a wash 
 of strong soap-suds thickened with washing-soda will 
 keep it away. Wash as early as May and June, and 
 keep the ground clear of grass and weeds for a harbor. 
 I have found clean culture a good protection when 
 neglected trees were badly infested, and some were de- 
 stroyed. A good formula for a wash is two pounds 
 of soft soap and a quarter of a pound of sulphur in a 
 pail of water. Apply with a swab or brush. 
 
 Christopher Shearer, a very successful horticulturist 
 of Pennsylvania, recommends a wash of four gallons of 
 whitewash, two quarts of clay, two quarts of fresh cow 
 dung, and one quart of strong lye, with water enough to 
 mix well. Scrape the earth away from the collar of the 
 tree, and apply with a swab or brush in May and August, 
 reaching well up the tree. Return the earth that was 
 removed. He finds it effective with the peach and 
 apple trees as well as the quince. The main thing is to 
 prevent the laying of the eggs, and this does it. 
 
 Harris recommends plugging up their holes with cam- 
 
100 
 
 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 phor. Downing advises to heap ashes or lime about the 
 collar of the tree. He would protect nurseries by wash- 
 ing young trees with a solution of a pound of potash to a 
 gallon of water. 
 
 If the larvae have already got into the trees they should 
 be dug out or destroyed in their holes. Annealed wire 
 or small strips of whalebone have been found useful to 
 run into the holes. Besides the summer examinations, 
 it is well to look over the trees in the fall and winter to 
 make sure the larvae are not in them. 
 
 2. The Quince Scale (Aspidiotus Cydonim, Corn- 
 stock). — This is an enemy found on quince trees in 
 Florida. The scale is gray, and somewhat transparent. 
 The shape is convex and the size only about six hun- 
 dredths of an inch across. The remedy is a strong -solu- 
 tion of potash or soft soap, applied with a swab or brush. 
 
 3. The Woolly Aphis {Aphis lanigera or schizoneura, 
 Hausmann). — The downy plant lice, now placed in the 
 
 genus Eriosoma, are among the 
 most destructive species. This 
 aphis was imported on fruit trees 
 from Europe, and yet in England 
 it is called the American Blight. 
 It is most commonly found on 
 api^le trees in the colder sec- 
 tions. It was on the quince tree 
 in an apple orchard at Northamp- 
 ton, Massachusetts, where it at- 
 tracted my attention some years 
 ago. The tree had numerous 
 shoots like those that spring up around apple trees, and 
 these were abundantly infested. I am thus particular in 
 giving the location, as I have not seen it on quince trees 
 farther south, and have not seen any notice of it on the 
 quince by other writers. It may be readily recognized 
 by the woolly covering from which it takes its name. 
 
 2:. 70. — WO©LLT APHIS. 
 
INSECT EbfEMlES. iOl 
 
 (Soe figure 70.) The numerous punctures they make 
 ill the bark of the tender shoots produce warts or ex- 
 crescences on the bark, till the limbs become sickly, the 
 leaves turn yellow and drop off, and sometimes the whole 
 tree dies. 
 
 Remedies. — The lady-bugs and their larvae, the larvae 
 of the Syrphus and lace-winged flies, and the little chal- 
 cid fly (Aphelinus mail, Hald.), all feed on these plant- 
 lice. The old bark should be scraped off wherever it 
 makes a harbor for them, and then with a stiff brush 
 they should be treated to a solution of lime and sulphur 
 (five pounds of lime to one of sulphur in two gallons of 
 water, heated till the sulphur is dissolved). The earth at 
 the roots, as far as practicable, should be exchanged for 
 fresh soil. A pound of potash in a gallon of water is 
 effective. Another application is made, melting three 
 ounces of resin wdth the same quantity of fish oil, and 
 applying it warm with a paint brush. Spiders spin their 
 webs over and feed on them at their leisure. 
 
 4. The Seventeej^--Year Cicada, commonly called 
 Locust {Cicada septendecim, Linn.). — This insect de- 
 rives its name from the time it requires to pass through 
 its several changes. The long intervals at which they 
 appear, and the little damage they do to the quince, make 
 any extended description of the seventeen-year locusts, 
 however interesting, quite unnecessary here. It may be 
 found in any good work on entomology. The damage 
 done by these insects can not be prevented. They can 
 not eat, and the only injury they do above ground is 
 confined to the small branches in which they deposit 
 tlieir eggs ; but when they go over a whole tree in this 
 way it becomes a serious matter. These branches die 
 and fall off, and there is nothing to dp but trim off the 
 rough ends with a smooth cut. In the larva state they 
 do much injury to the roots of trees. The birds, poultry, 
 etc., destroy many. The plow destroys more in culti- 
 
10'^ QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 vatecl grounds. The work of these interesting insects, 
 liovvever, is confined chiefly to our native woods, and 
 their numbers, consequently, can not easily be reduced. 
 
 CLIMBING CUT-WORMS (AgvoftdcB). 
 
 Cut-worms are the caterpillars of widely-spread species 
 of nocturnal moths. Most of them confine their depreda- 
 tions to young and succulent plants, which they cut off 
 just above or below the surface of the ground. Four 
 species of this numerous family are in the habit of 
 ascending trees at night, and doing serious damage 
 by eating off the growing twigs and foliage. Or- 
 chards in light sandy soil are most liable to' their 
 
 Fig. 71.— MOTH. 
 
 attacks. While the several species differ in size, in color 
 and markings, both in the larva and imago state, they 
 are much alike. In their general appearance they are 
 smooth and naked larvae of some shade of gray, green, 
 brown, or black, with dusky markings. The female lays 
 about 600 eggs on the twigs of the trees, where they do 
 their mischief. They eat at night, and are, therefore, 
 seldom seen. Having finished their nocturnal meal, they 
 fall to the ground, and hide in the earth. 
 
 5. The Variegated Cut- Worm ( Agrotis sawcm,Hub- 
 ner). The moth, with wings expanded, measures about 
 an inch and three-quarters across. The fore wings are 
 grayish brown, marked with brownish black. The hind 
 
INSECT ENEMIES. 
 
 103 
 
 wings are white and pearly, shaded toward the margin 
 with pale brown. The chrysalis is of a deep mahogany 
 brown, with dotted markings on each side, and sharp 
 
 Fig. 73.— CHRYSALIS OP THE VARIE- 
 GATED CUT-WORM. 
 
 Fig. 73.— LAUVA OF THE VARIE- 
 GATED CUT-WORM. 
 
 Fig. 74.~EGGS OF THE VA- 
 RIEGATED CUT-WORM, 
 a. Magnified ; 6, Natural Size. 
 
 pointed at the tip. The larva pupates in the gronnd, 
 where it forms a smooth, oval, earth cocoon. The larva 
 becomes full grown by the middle of June, when it is of 
 
 Fig. 75.— LARVA AND MOTH OF THE DARK-SIDED CUT-WORM. 
 
 a dnll flesh-color, mottled with brown and black, hav- 
 ing elongated velvety black markings on the sides. 
 
 6. The Dark-sided Cut-Worm {Agrotis Cochranii, 
 Kiley). The moth is light gray, marked and shaded 
 with brown, and smaller than the Variegated. The larva is 
 a little over an inch long, with dark ashen gray sides and 
 
104 
 
 QUIN^CE CULTURE. 
 
 lighter color above. The chrysalis in the earth cocoon is 
 about seven-tenths of an inch long, yellowish brown with 
 darker bi-own markings. 
 
 7. The Climbing Cut-AVorm (Agrotis scandens, 
 Eiley) is very destructive to buds and tender stems and. 
 
 leaves. The body of the moth 
 is about seven-tenths of an inch 
 long, and the spread wings meas- 
 ure nearly an inch and a half 
 across. The fore wings are of 
 a light bluish gray with darker 
 markings. The hind wings are 
 
 Fig. 76.-AGROTIS SCANDENS. ^^^^.^y ^j^-^g^ rpj^^ j^^.^^ -^ ^^^^^^ 
 
 an inch and a half long, of a light yellowish gray, varie- 
 gated with dull green. It has a dark line along the back, 
 with fainter lines along the sides. The spiracles are 
 black. The chrysalis is brown. 
 
 8. The Mamestra Picta, or W-marked Cut- Worm 
 {Agi'otis clandestma, Harris), feeds on succulent plants, 
 low bushes, and the buds of trees. It is supposed to 
 have two broods a year. The first transformation of the 
 
 Fig-. 77. — W-MARKED 
 CUT-WORM. 
 
 Fig. 78. — MOTH OF W-MARKED 
 CUT-WORM. 
 
 chrysalis to the moth occurs about the first of June and 
 the second near the end of August. The fore wings are 
 of a dark ash-gray, marked by deeper colored lines, mak- 
 ing their zigzag course a distinct W, near the outer hind 
 margin. The hind wings are a dull white, faintly tinged 
 
INSECT ENEMIES. 
 
 105 
 
 with brown on the outer edge. The chrysah's is of tlie 
 shining brown color common to the species. The larva 
 is light yellow, variegated with three broad, black, longi- 
 tudinal stripes, one on each side, the other on the top of 
 the back. The head, belly, and feet are tawny. The 
 lateral black stripe consists of numerous transverse black 
 marks on a pure white ground. On account of its 
 stripes, Dr. Melsheimer called it the zebra caterpillar. 
 It does not conceal itself in the ground until it is ready 
 to pupate. 
 
 Remedies. — The common red ants capture and kill 
 them. Insectivorous birds devour them. As prevention 
 
 Fig. 79.— CALOSOMA SCEUTATOK. Fig. 80. — CALOSOMA CALIDUM. 
 
 is better than cure, we may attract the moths by little 
 bonfires, and destroy them. We may attract them by 
 cider, and water sweetened and flavored with vinegar. 
 We may keep the larva from climbing the trees by 
 fastening around them strips of tin or zinc like inverted 
 funnels. Cut-worms, like other caterpillars, have de- 
 stroyers in the Tachina flies, and the Ichneumons are 
 their parasitic enemies. I discovered one of these climb- 
 ing worms a few years ago in the very process of destruc- 
 tion by parasites. The worms crawled through the skin, 
 leaving no visible mark, and then spun their cocoons on 
 
lOt) QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 the Stem that supported the cut-worm. Further obser- 
 vation showed that they pupated ten days before coming 
 forth to repeat their work of destruction. The female 
 of this parasite lays about 100 eggs, which shows that 
 they are capable of doing much good service. The car- 
 nivorous beetles Calosoma scrutator and Caloso^na cali- 
 dum (Fabr.) are very active in hunting and eating all 
 the species of cut- worms. The latter is a very beautiful 
 beetle, with copper-colored spots on the wing covers. 
 Their aid as destroyers of noxious insects should be 
 better known and appreciated. 
 
 ATTACKING THE LEAVES. 
 
 9. Caterpillar of the Handmaid Moth, or the 
 Yellow-necked Apple-tree Caterpillar [Datana 
 ministra, Drury). — Of all insects that prey upon the 
 leaves of quince trees, I have found the caterpillar 
 of the Handmaid Moth most destructive. As one of 
 
 Fig. 81— EGGS OF MOTH. 
 
 its names suggests, it is also destructive of the foliage 
 of the apple and also of the cherry. The eggs are laid 
 on the under side of a leaf, selecting one near the end of 
 a twig. They are fastened in nearly straight rows to one 
 another as well as to the leaf. They vary from about 150 
 to 180, each the size of a small pin head. They hatch at 
 varying times from July onward, occasional broods com- 
 ing out as late as September. At first they only eat the 
 
INSECT EN^EMIES. 
 
 107 
 
 pulp of the leaf, leaving a pretty network of veins ; but 
 in a few days they devour the whole leaf, and when full 
 grown sweep every thing before them. Side by side in 
 solid phalanx along the twigs and branches, they feed 
 
 Fig. 82.— BEFORE THE FIBST 
 MOULT. 
 
 Fig. 85.— BEFORE THE FOURTH MOULT. 
 
 Fig. 83.— BEFORE THE SECOND 
 MOULT. 
 
 Fig. 84.— BEFORE THE THIRD 
 
 MOULT. Fig. 86.— AFTER THE FOURTH MOULT. 
 
 gregariously, resting between meals in the same order, 
 with both head and tail recurved over the body. If 
 touched or otherwise disturbed they at once throw their 
 heads from side to side in a spiteful manner, or let them- 
 selves down by a silken thread, always double, which 
 they rapidly spin out of their mouths. Their bodies are 
 
 Fig. 88.— CHRYSALIS. 
 
 Fig. 87.— LARVA AT BEST. 
 
 well covered with long, soft, whitish hairs. They moult 
 four times, and attain their full growth in five or six 
 weeks, and are then about two inches long. A black 
 stripe extends along the back, and three black stripes 
 
108 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 alternate with four yellow ones on each side. With 
 expanded wings the moth measures about two inches 
 across, sometimes two and a half. 
 
 The sexes have some points of difference. The an- 
 tennae of the male have two rows of fringe beneath, with 
 very short hairs nearly to their tips. In the female the 
 antennae are naked. She is larger than the male. Their 
 color is a light brov/n. The head and a large square 
 spot on the thorax are dark chestnut brown. The hairs 
 on this spot can be erected so as to form a kind of crest. 
 The fore wings are slightly notched on their hinder 
 margins, with from three to five transverse brown lines, 
 and one or two dark spots in the middle (sometimes 
 
 Fig. 89.— HANDMAID MOTH. Fig. 90.— PARASITIC FLY. 
 
 lacking), and a short, oblique, dark line near the outer 
 margin. In repose, the hinder part of the body is 
 raised up, and the fore-legs stretched out before the 
 body. The illustrations will aid in recognizing them at 
 every stage of their life history. 
 
 Remedy. — They are easily found by the naked limbs 
 they have stripped of their foliage, and also by their 
 droppings on the ground, and when found can be pulled 
 off and cruslied. The Tachina flies deposit their egg^^ in 
 them. A small Ichneumon is also known to prey on them. 
 
 10. The Fall Web-Wohm {Hypliantria textor, Har- 
 ris). — The appearance of web-tents in trees after the 
 tent caterpillar of early spring has disappeared, has 
 raised the question whether there be not a second brood. 
 
INSECT EN^EMIES. 109 
 
 But the tent caterpillar of spring only preys on a few 
 kinds of trees, while the later sort are ready to work over 
 a very wide range. They are much smaller, and eat 
 very much longer. The fall web- worm is a caterpillar 
 of the family of Arctians or Tiger moths. The name 
 Hyphantria means a weaver, and is very appropriate and 
 descriptive ; for the first thing they do when hatched is 
 to spin a web on the leaf where they are hatched, under 
 which they eat the pulp of the leal Their webs are so 
 closely woven as to hold their excrements as a fine powder. 
 The moth is white, with tawny yellow fore-thighs and 
 dark-colored feet. The antenna of the males are doubly 
 feathered beneath, and those of the female have two rows 
 of teeth on the under side. The expanded wings meas- 
 
 Fig. 91— Larva. Fig. 92. — CJirysalis. Fig. 93.— Winged Insect. 
 
 FALL Yt^EB-WORM. 
 
 ure about an inch and a quarter across. In repose they 
 are not crossed on the back, but are roofed or sloped 
 down on each side of the body. It only flies at night, 
 when it lays its eggs on leaves near the end of the twigs, 
 during June and July. In the North there is but one 
 brood a year, but in the South there is often a brood in 
 Jane and another in August. These caterpillars feed on 
 the quince, ai^ple, pear, and a good many other trees and 
 shrubs. They attain their full growth in about three 
 months, when they separate to seek places of conceal- 
 ment, where they pupate in thin and almost transparent 
 cocoons, in which they remain through the winter as 
 chrysalids. The full-grown caterpillar is over an inch 
 long, with a slender body. Their general color is gray, 
 with a tinge of greenish-yellow. Trees defoliated by 
 
110 
 
 QUIN^CE CULTURE. 
 
 them are likely to be barren, because it is too late to 
 form new foliage with fruit buds. 
 
 Remedy. — Gather and destroy them in their webs. 
 The Spined Soldier-bug {Podisus spinosus, Dallas) pierces 
 their bodies with its beak, and sucks them empty. There 
 are birds that pierce their v/ebs and destroy them in 
 spite of their concealment. 
 
 11. The BaCx-Worm, Basket-AVorm, or Drop-Worm 
 (Thyridopteryx ephemermformis, Haw). — The bag- worm 
 
 a, Larva ; 6, Chrysalis ; c. Female ; d. Male ; e. Female bag opened ; /, The 
 
 Worm and its Bag ; g. The Young. 
 
 Fig. 94.— THE BAG-WORM, BASKET-WORM, OR DROP-WORM. 
 
 of the United States has a range from Alabama on the 
 south to Massachusetts on the north. The Germans 
 call it Sack-trager (sack-bearer). It feeds on almost 
 every variety of trees, including the quince. The names 
 applied to this caterpillar are significantly descriptive. 
 No sooner is it hatched than it begins to make a bag- 
 like house on a tender leaf. Standing on the leaf, with 
 its little tail turned up, it spins a silken ring around it- 
 self, fastening bits of the leaf on the outside, and adding 
 to the lower edge of the ring as they increase it uj^ward. 
 
INSECT ENEMIES. HI 
 
 until it reaches the tail, forming a sort of cone, as at fig- 
 ure 94,/. As the caterpillars increase in size they enlarge 
 their houses upward, until the elongation makes their bags 
 so large and heavy they hang to one side, instead of being 
 upriglit, as at/. They are full grown about the end of 
 July when hatched the last of May or early in June. 
 The habit of the full-grown worm of letting itself down 
 by its silken threads, suggested the name of Drop-ivorm. 
 When they travel they extend the head and enough of 
 the body to use three pairs of legs, each provided with a 
 strong claw, while the five pairs of very short legs within 
 their case retain a strong hold with clinging hooks. 
 They moult four times while growing. At each time 
 they close the mouth of the sack, and retire for two days 
 to cast off their skins. In closing the bag, a hole is 
 always left at the end large enough to throw out their 
 excrement and their cast-off skins. The body is cylin- 
 drical and soft, and that portion usually concealed in the 
 case is lighter colored. At maturity they fasten their bags 
 securely to the twigs of the tree, instinctively avoidino- 
 the leaf-stalk that will fall. Then they line them with 
 soft silk, and turn round, with their heads toward the 
 lower orifice, where they wait to cast their skins and be- 
 come chrysalids. Up to this change the sexes have been 
 ahke in appearance ; but henceforth they are easily dis- 
 tinguishable. The male chrysalis has the form of ordi- 
 nary chrysalids, being about half the size of the female. 
 The female chrysalis has no sign of encased wings, legs, 
 and antennae, appearing as a naked, yellowish bag of ei^gs 
 with a ring of soft light brown hair near the tail! After 
 three weeks the male chrysalis works down to the end of 
 his bag, and, hanging half way out, bursts his skin, and 
 emerges as a moth with a black body and glossy wings, 
 as at d. The male is proportionally stout bodied, with 
 a long abdomen, and broadly pectinated antennai. The 
 female has neither wings nor legs. The ba^-worm is 
 
112 
 
 QUINCE (CULTURE. 
 
 exceedingly hardy and vigorous, and readily adapts itself 
 to any food available. 
 
 Eemtdies. — There is no surer method of destroying 
 them than to gather the cocoons as they hang on the trees 
 and burn them. They are easily seen during the winter. 
 This is emphatically applying the ounce of prevention 
 that will save the pound of cure. Two insect friends aid 
 us, both ichneumons. The Cryptus inquisitor (Say) is 
 about two-tifths of an inch long. The Hemiteles thyri- 
 dopteryx (Riley) is about one-third of an inch long. 
 
 Fig. 95. 
 
 CRYPTUS INQUISITOR. 
 
 Fig. 96.— i¥a?e. Fig. Q7.— Female. 
 
 HEMITELES THTRIDOPTERTX. 
 
 Five or six of these sometimes occupy the body of a 
 single bag-worm. After destroying the worm, they spin 
 for themselves, within its cocoon, small white cocoons. 
 
 12. The Corn Emperor Moth, the Id Emperor 
 Moth {HypercMria lo, Linn., Satiirnia lo, Harris, Hy- 
 perchiria varia, Walker). — The common name of this 
 
 moth probably came from 
 its feeding on corn and for- 
 aging on both trees and veg- 
 etables, a very uncommon 
 habit with insects. It not 
 only feeds on the quince, but 
 a wide range of trees and 
 vegetables. The moth is 
 very beautiful, and only flies at night. The sexes differ 
 both in size and color, the male being the smaller. His 
 color is a deep yellow, with purplish brown markings. His 
 
 
 Fig. 98. — LARVA OF THE CORN 
 EMPEROR MOTH. 
 
INSECT ENEMIES. 
 
 li:^ 
 
 fore wings are marked with a zigzag line near the base, 
 and two oblique wavy lines near the outer margin, with 
 other spots on the middle forming the letters A, H, all 
 of a purplish red color. The hind wings are hairy, and 
 
 purplish red next to the body, with a narrow curved 
 band of like color near their posterior margin, and within 
 this band there is a curved black line. On the middle 
 of the wing is a black spot with a bluish center, on which 
 there is a silver-white line. The upper side is ochre- 
 yellow ; the head and thorax purplish brown. The an- 
 tennae are broadly pectinated, while in the female they 
 
 Tig. 100.— CORN EMPEROR MOTH, MALE. 
 
 are feathered very narrow. Tlie anterior wings of the 
 female are purplish brown, or a faded cream color. The 
 zigzag and wavy lines across them are gray, and marked in 
 the middle with a brown spot, surrounded by an irregular 
 
114 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 gray line, and towards the base are covered with a thick 
 wool-like covering. The posterior wings resemble those 
 of the male, as do also the head and thorax. The ex- 
 panse of the wings is from two and three-quarter inches 
 to three inches and a half. 
 
 Soon after pairing the female lays her eggs in clusters 
 of twenty to thirty. The eggs are top-shaped, flattened 
 at the top and compressed on the sides ; about one- 
 twentieth of an inch in diameter, and creamy white, Avith 
 a yellowish spot above, which gradually increases in 
 color as they come to maturity, when it is almost black, 
 and the 3'el low larva show through the sides. Beginning 
 their work as early as June and extending it nearly 
 through September, it is easy to see that they may do 
 great harm. The broods remain together till near ma- 
 turity, when they separate for pupating. The full-grown 
 caterpillar is two and a half inches loiig, pea-green, with 
 a broad brown stripe, edged white, low down on the 
 body. Beginning with the fourth ring, tliere is a brown 
 triangular spot on the under side of each. The breath- 
 ing pores are yellow, ringed with brown. Each segment 
 of the body is dotted with little warts, armed with 
 clusters of branching spines. The prick of these sharp 
 spines irritates the skin like the sting of nettles. Up to 
 the age when they separate, the groups move in a regular 
 order, guided by the thread spun by the leader. They 
 moult four times, attaining maturity in August and Sep- 
 tember, according to the time they were hatched, when 
 the caterpillar will measure two and a half inches in length. 
 The full-grown larva descends to the ground, where it 
 draws together leaves or any other convenient material 
 for an outer covering, within which it makes a cocoon 
 of tough, gummy, brown silk, in which it changes to a 
 chrysalis. 
 
 Remedies. — If not discovered before they are half 
 grown, when together, they can be readily found and 
 
INSECT EITEMIES. 
 
 115 
 
 destroyed after they separate, by their large droppings. 
 The larvaB are attacked by two parasites; one a very small, 
 unnamed, four-winged fly, the other the Long-tailed 
 Ophion {Ophion macrurum, Linn.). 
 
 13. The Vaporer Moth, the White-marked Tus- 
 sock Moth {Orgyia leucostigma, Smith and Abbr.).— 
 This moth takes the name Orgyia from a word signifying 
 
 Fig, 101.— LARVA OF WHITE-MARKED TUSSOCK MOTH. 
 
 to stretch out the hands, on account of its resting with tlie 
 fore legs extended. The English name, Vapor Moth, is 
 apphed as descriptive of the males ostentatiously flying 
 by day, or vaporing, when most other moths keep con"- 
 cealed. The name White-marked Tussock Moth is ap- 
 plied as descriptive of the four little hairy tufts on tiie 
 
 Fig. \(^.-Pupa. Fi.-. 103.-Jfafe. 
 
 WHITE-MARKED TUSSOCK MOTH. 
 
 back j3f the caterpillar. On each side is a row of smaller 
 tufts of fine, yellow hairs. A narrow dark stripe runs 
 along the back, and a wider dusky stripe runs along each 
 side. There are two long black plumes on the first ring 
 and one on the top of the eleventh ring. They are 
 
116 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 something over an inch long at maturity. The body is 
 bright yellow, and the head coral red. Though not 
 gregarious, they are often numerous enough to be very 
 destructive to the foliage of the quince and other trees 
 and shrubs. There are two broods in a year. The first 
 hatch about the middle of May, and the second late in 
 July. The first brood complete their growth by the 
 middle of July, spin their cocoons on the leaves or 
 branches of trees, and enter into the chrysalis state. 
 The chrysalis has little downy hairs, and three oval 
 clusters of bran-like scales on the back. They pupate 
 eleven days, when the female comes forth wingless, and 
 the male with wings that expand an inch and three- 
 eighths. The wings are ashen gray, crossed by darker 
 wavy bands on the upper pair, which are also marked by a 
 black spot near the tip, and a very small white crescent by 
 the outer angle. Their antennae are broadly pectinated. 
 The body of the female is a very thick, oblong oval, in 
 distinctly marked sections, and of a lighter gray than 
 the male. She waits on the outside of her cocoon for 
 the coming of the male, and after meeting him lays her 
 eggs in an irregular mass on the top of the cocoon, which 
 is spun between the leaves, and then covers them with a 
 frothy looking substance, which hardens to brittleness, 
 and is then impervious to water. After laying her eggs 
 she drops to the ground and dies. The young larvae, 
 when seriously disturbed, let themselves down by silken 
 threads ; and when the danger seems past they climb up 
 the threads to regain their former situation. 
 
 Remedies. — The leaves attached to the cocoon show 
 where their eggs are laid, so they can easily be found 
 during the winter, and destroyed. There are nine species 
 of two and four winged flies that are known to be para- 
 sites of this insect in the larval state. 
 
 14. Pear-tree Slug (Selandria [Blennocampa] Ce- 
 rasi, Peck). — This caterpillar is called a slug, from its 
 
INSECT ENEMIES. 
 
 117 
 
 appearance in the larva state. The name Blennocamja 
 signifies a slimy caterpillar. Its favorite trees are the 
 pear, cherry, and quince, and it is sometimes found on 
 the plum and mountain ash. Ordinarily there are but 
 few on a leaf, but sometimes the leaves are fairly spotted 
 with them. Thirty have been counted on a single leaf. 
 Professor Peck, of Massachusetts, wrote its natural history 
 in 1790 with such critical accuracy that little has been 
 since added to our knowledge of its life history. It is 
 now quite generally spread over the country. This slug 
 comes from the eggs of a saw-fly, about one-fifth of an 
 inch long, resembling the common house-fly. Its body 
 is glossy black. The first two pairs of legs are clay- 
 
 Fig. \0A.— Female. 
 
 Fig. 105. 
 
 PEAR-TREE SLUG. 
 
 -Larva. 
 
 colored, with dark thighs. The hind legs are dull black 
 with clay-colored knees. The wings are transparent, 
 slightly convex, and uneven on the upper side, with 
 brownish veins. They reflect the changeable colors of 
 the rainbow, with a smoky tinge in a band across the 
 middle of the first pair. 
 
 The female is provided with a saw-like appendage, 
 with which she cuts a curved incision through the skin 
 of the leaf, in which she lays her eggs singly, and gener- 
 ally on the under side, from about the middle of May 
 into June. In fourteen days they begin to hatch. At 
 first the slugs are white ; but soon a slimy matter oozes 
 through the skin, and covers their backs and sides with an 
 olive-colored, sticky coat. The head is small, of a dark 
 
118 QUIJ^"CE CULTURE. 
 
 chestnut color, and is entirely concealed under the body, 
 which tapers almost to a point at the tail, whicli in re- 
 pose is turned up a little. They have twenty very short 
 legs, a pair under each segment, except the fourth and 
 the last. They grow for twenty-six days, casting their 
 skins five times, and eating them every time till the last. 
 After the last moult they show a clean yellow skin, free 
 from viscidity. They now show the head and segments 
 of the body very plainly, and are about half an inch long. 
 In a few hours after this last moult, they leave the tree 
 and burrow a few inches in the ground, where they form 
 little oblong-oval cavities, lined with a sticky, glossy 
 substance. In these cells tbey pupate ; and in sixteen 
 days the change is complete from the worm to the fly, 
 which bursts the cell and crawls out to seek its mate. 
 
 The flies of the first brood lay eggs for a second in 
 July and August, and the second brood go into the 
 ground in September and October, where they remain 
 till the next spring, when they in turn change to flies. 
 Where they are very abundant the foliage is entirely de- 
 stroyed, and before the trees can again clothe them- 
 selves with leaves, it is too late to perfect fruit buds, and 
 barrenness must follow. If they are allowed to continue 
 their work year after year^, the trees not only become 
 barren, but die. 
 
 Remedies. — We may catch the flies if we see them 
 laying their eggs, for they are not very shy. Saunders 
 says, if the tree is shaken while they are at work, *^they 
 fall to the ground, where, folding their antennae under 
 their bodies and bending the head forward and under, 
 they remain for a time motionless." 
 
 Powdered hellebore in water, an ounce to two gallons, 
 or either of the poisons, white arsenic, London purple, 
 or Paris green, a teaspoonful to two gallons of water, or 
 air-slacked lime, or ashes, or any dry dust, or slug-shot, 
 sprayed or dusted on the leaves, all seem to be effective. 
 
INSECT ENEMIES. 119 
 
 I have found the dry earth under the trees all-sufficient, 
 if applied before they are ready to go into the ground, 
 and the poisons may therefore be avoided. 
 
 A very minute ichneumon fly, a species of Encyrtus, 
 deposits an Qgg in the Qgg of the saw-fly; and from this 
 tiny Qgg a maggot is hatched, which lives on the Qgg of 
 the slug-fly, and when it has consumed it, becomes 
 a chrysalis, and then a fly. Prof. Peck found that many 
 eggs of the second brood were destroyed by ^'^tliis atom 
 of existence." The Yireo a:id Cat-bird eat them from 
 the leaves. In dusting tall trees a sieve fastened on 
 the end of a pole is a convenient implement. An old 
 tin can well punctured with holes is a very cheap sieve 
 for the purpose. 
 
 15. The Polyphemus Moth {Telea Polyphemus, 
 Sim; Attacus Polyphemus, Harris). It is called Poly- 
 phemus after one of tlie giants in mythology bearing this 
 name. It is one of the largest of the native American 
 silk worms, belonging to the genus Attacus. The wings 
 of the female spread fully six inches ; those of the 
 male a little less. It is of a dull ochre-yellow color, 
 clouded with black in the middle of the wings. On each 
 of the fore wings, near the center, there is an eye-like 
 spot transparent in the center, crossed by light lines, and 
 surrounded by rings of white, red, yellow, and black. 
 Before the eye-spots of the hind wings are large blue 
 spots, shading into black. On the front margin of the 
 fore wings there is a gray stri^^e, which crosses the fore 
 part of the thorax, and near the base of these wings are 
 two short red lines, edged with white. At their tips are 
 also two small dark spots. The hind wings are cut off 
 almost square at the corners, and near their margins 
 have wavy lines like those on the fore wings. The an- 
 tennae of the males are very broadly pectinated ; of the 
 females, lightly feathered. The combinations of form, 
 color, and markings make them very beautiful. 
 
120 
 
 QUIJs^CE CULTURE. 
 
 Finding the larvae every year on some of my quince 
 trees, I have studied their habits with a great deal of in- 
 terest. So far as I know, I am the first to prove that 
 
 Fig. 106 — THE POLYPHEMUS MOTH, FEMALE. 
 
 they have two broods a year. Packard, is certainly mis- 
 taken when he speaks of ''our native species bearing but 
 a single crop of worms," for this one is double-brooded. 
 The chrysalis that winters in the cocoon is proportion- 
 ately short and thick, of a reddish brown, and distinctly 
 
 Fig. 107.— THE POLYPHEMUS MOTH, MALE. 
 
 marked in cylindrical rings. The larvae of the first brood 
 only pupate about twenty days, spinning their cocoons 
 in June and July, according to the time they were 
 
INSECT ENEMIES. 
 
 121 
 
 hatched ; for the cocoons that winter, vary considerably 
 in tlie time of bringing out their moths. They generally 
 come out late in May and on into June. Then they lay 
 their eggs, usually singly, on the under side of leaves, 
 each moth laying several 
 hundred, which hatch into 
 caterpillars in ten or twelve 
 days. The eggs are one- 
 tenth of an inch across, 
 much flattened, and of a 
 color approaching to white. 
 At first the abdomen of the 
 female is so heavy with the abundance of the eggs that 
 she flies only short distances. 
 
 The caterpillar is a shade of green so near like the 
 leaves around it, one often has some diflSculty in discov- 
 ering it, even after he has found where to look by its 
 
 Fig. 108. — CHRYSALIS OF POLT- 
 PHEMUS MOTH. 
 
 "Fig, 109.— WORM OF THE POLYPHEMUS MOTH. 
 
 large droppings, and also because of its habit in repose 
 of clinging to the under side of the twig with the 
 back down ; and the length of the body is so greatly 
 contracted as to hunch up the segments. It has twelve 
 large segments, each nearly as thick as a man's finger 
 when the body is shortened to two inches ; but when ex- 
 
122 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 tended to three inches, as it often is in fcrateling, the 
 thickness is greatly reduced. 
 
 The worm moults four times, at intervals of ten days, 
 and then a fifth time after twenty days. Soon after the 
 last moult it draws a few leaves together, within wliich 
 it spins a short, thick cocoon of pure silk. In confine- 
 ment I have found it spins enough of its cocoon in a 
 single night to entirely hide itself ; but it evidently con- 
 tinues to spin much longer on the inside, as its motions 
 indicate. Like all its congeners, it spins a double thread 
 from its mouth, gumming it enough to make it strongly 
 adhesive, not only to all points of attachment, but to all 
 parallel and intersecting threads. When finished it is 
 
 Fig. 110.— COCOON OF THE POLYPHEMUS MOTH. 
 
 water-proof. It pupates soon after the cocoon is com- 
 plete, and in about twenty days the moths of the first 
 brood appear. 
 
 The twelve segments of the larva are each marked 
 with three side rows of very bright yellow spots. The 
 seven segments in front of the posterior also have a 
 very bright line or bar, slightly inclined forward, and 
 reaching from the dot of the upper row to that of the 
 lower row, and passing the dot of the middle row. On 
 the back is a row of small hairy elevations, one on the 
 top of each segment. The head is pale brown, the spi- 
 racles pale orange, and the V-shaped band around the 
 tail is a purplish brown. The feet of the first three seg- 
 ments are sharp claws ; the next two segments are foot- 
 
INSrXT EI^^EMIES. 123 
 
 less, followed by four with very strong powers of attach- 
 ment; then two more are footless. The terminal segment 
 has pale brown feet. 
 
 They feed on the oak and elm as well as the quince. 
 Harris was mistaken in saying that the *^ outer covering 
 of leaves which fall off in the autumn bear the enclosed 
 tough oval cocoons to the ground." I have always found 
 those on the quince fastened securely around the stem, 
 so as to avoid the danger of falling to the ground. The 
 second brood spin their cocoons in August and September, 
 and these furnish the winter quarters for the chrysalids. 
 
 Tig. 111.— LONG-TAILED OPHIOTT. 
 
 As soon as they are out of the cocoon the limp wings 
 unfold, and fchey crawl to some place where they can 
 hang and dry, all which takes place in an hour, when 
 they can fly. 
 
 Remedies. — At the annual pruning, such cocoons as 
 have escaped previous gathering should be looked for 
 and destroyed. During the summer and fall, the larvae 
 may be subdued by hand picking, the place of their loca- 
 tion being found by their large droppings. Insectivorous 
 birds and poultry feed on them. It is estimated that 
 four out of five of the larvae of this moth are destroyed 
 
124 
 
 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 by its parasitic enemies. The largest, and perhaps the 
 commonest, is the Long-tailed Ophion i^Opliion macru- 
 rum, Linn.). It is a large yellowish brown ichneumon, 
 that lays its eggs on the skin of the larvae, to which they 
 adhere by the gum surrounding them, and hatch in a few 
 days. A two-winged tachina fly is also often found as a 
 parasite on this caterpillar. Its larva is a fleshy and foot- 
 less grub, of a translucent yellow, and about half an inch 
 long. 
 
 16. Cotton Tuft (Lagoa crispata, Packard). — This is 
 a very singular variety of the caterpillar family, which 
 
 derives its name from the 
 crinkled, woolly hairs on the 
 fore wings of the parent 
 moth. The thorax and 
 lower part of the sides are a 
 slate-colored, dusky orange. 
 It makes its cocoon by inter- 
 weaving its long hairs with 
 its silk. The cocoon is long, 
 cylindrical, and dense. The 
 skin of the very thin pupa 
 is found protruding from 
 has escaped. When I first 
 saw the Lagoas on the quince trees, the caterpillars were 
 about a third of an inch long and looked like so many tufts 
 of white cotton. Hence the common name I have given 
 it. After they had moulted, and grown to about three- 
 quarters of an inch in length, they appeared less hairy, 
 the back being wide in proportion to the length, with the 
 corrugated parts conjoined, reminding one of a trilobite. 
 
 17. The Apple-tree Aphis {Aphis mali, Fabr. ; 
 Aphis malifolicB. Fitch). The name Aphis means to 
 exhaust, and is well applied to this little insect, which 
 proves itself a great exhauster of vitality on all trees on 
 which it lives. They have small heads, armed with 
 
 112.— COTTON TUFT, 
 
 a, cocoou natural size ; h, early appear- 
 ance ; c, advanced growth ; d, ma- 
 tured larvae, 
 
 the cocoon after the moth 
 
INSECT ENEMIES. 125 
 
 three- join ted beaks, which puncture the tender foliage, 
 and through which they suck out the juices of plants. 
 Their eyes are round, without eyelets. Their antennae 
 are long and tapering. Their legs are long and slender. 
 There are but two joints to their feet. Their wings are 
 nearly triangular, and the upper wings, longer than the 
 body, are nearly twice as large as the lower. In repose 
 these wings cover the body like a steep roof. 
 
 The most wonderful thing about them is the way they 
 multiply. The mides die soon after they pair in autumn. 
 The females lay their eggs on the bark near the leaf buds, 
 and then die. In spring, wdien the leaves begin to grow, 
 the eggs hatch and they begin their depredations. All 
 
 Fig. 113. — THE GREEN APHIS. 
 
 the young lice are wingless females. In ten or twelve 
 days they attain to maturity, and by a viviparous genera- 
 tion they begin to give birth to a daily increase of about 
 twenty. This second generation are also wingless fe- 
 males, and soon multiply by the same process as did the 
 first. Thus they multiply throughout the season, w^ith- 
 out the appearance of a single male, till in autumn they 
 produce a brood of both sexes, as well as the viviparous 
 form already described. During the summer, some 
 of the females acquire wings, and, dispersing to other 
 trees, found new colonies. They are generally wingless, 
 but when winged, look like the males, with a black head, 
 thorax, and antennae, black dots in a row along each 
 
126 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 side, black nectaries and tail appendage.' The neck is 
 green, the body is yellowish green, striped often with 
 a deeper green. The young are almost white. The 
 wings are transparent, with dark veins. 
 
 When they become gorged with sap, the excess is 
 thrown out through two little tubes, which project, one 
 on each side, from the anterior part of the body. These 
 are their nectaries, through which they eject a honeyed 
 fluid known as honey dew. To feed on this, a variety of 
 ants and flies will be found to visit them. The ants, 
 with whom they live on friendly terms, stroke the 
 aphides witii their antennae to induce them sooner to 
 void this sweet liquid, which they hastily devour. 
 
 Experiment has shown them capable of producing 
 eleven generations in seven months, when frost closed the 
 opportunity. In a heated room they continued to repro- 
 duce a constant succession, without the intervention of 
 males, for four years. Even then there was nothing to 
 show why it might not have been continued still longer. 
 Dr. Burnett considers this anomalous mode of increase 
 as a process of hudding, and that the whole series, like 
 the leaves of a tree, constitute only one generation, 
 resulting from the previous union of the sexes. Eeaumur 
 proved one capable of increasing to six thousand millions 
 in five generations. The leaves of trees infested with 
 aphides soon become distorted, or curled back so as to have 
 their tips touch the twig whence they sprung, thus pro- 
 tecting them from the sun and rain. 
 
 Remedies. — Tlie eggs can be destroyed by a wash of 
 caustic lime or soda. The young may be destroyed by 
 alkaline solutions, and by tobacco water, made by boiling 
 a pound of stems in a gallon of water. Twigs can be 
 bent into it with but little waste of the solution. Small 
 birds in winter hunt over the trees for its eggs, and in 
 summer for the lice. The Ichneumon fly deposits her 
 egg in the aphis, and this soon produces a destroyer. 
 
INSECT ENEMIES. 1^7 
 
 Tho Aphis-lions and the Lace-winged flies produce larvae 
 which destroy them in abundance. Myriads of aphides 
 are destroyed by Lady-birds and their hirvae. There are 
 nearly a hundred species of Lady-hi7'ds, all of which are 
 our helpers. I have found the large black ant of great 
 service. They concentrate on limbs infested with lice, 
 and clean them off. I count each nest of ants worth a 
 dollar a year as insecticides. 
 
 The Syrphus flies {Syr pirns politus, Say) lay one egg 
 in a group of plant lice, which hatches out a footless, 
 eyeless, flattened, wrinkled, green and purple maggot. 
 Their bodies are supple, and their mouths are provided 
 with a triple-pointed dart, with which they pierce the 
 aphides, and suck them dry. 
 
 A black aphis appears some years in considerable num- 
 bers on my quince cuttings, just in time to destroy open- 
 ing buds. Later I have found it in large numbers on 
 the young shoots of growing trees. I have not yet 
 determined with certainty its position in the aphis 
 family. 
 
 18. Katy-did, the Broad-winged Katy-did (Cyr- 
 tophyllus co7icauus,Siiy; Platyphyllum coucavum, Harris). 
 — Platyjihyllum means a broad wing, and is used to dis- 
 tinguish this from the Southern Katy-did, which belongs 
 to the genus Phylhptera. It is a green grasshopper of the 
 order Ortlioptera, and derives its common name from the 
 note of the male, which is produced by a kind of taboret. 
 The triangular overlapping part of each wing-cover forms 
 a strong half-oval frame, in which a thin, transparent 
 membrane is stretched. The friction of the taboret 
 frames . against each other when the wing-covers are 
 opened and shut, produces several distinct notes closely 
 resembling articulate sounds, and corresponding with 
 the number of times the wing-covers are opened and 
 shut. Li the stillness of the night these notes may be 
 heard a long distance, as rival notes answer from adjacent 
 
128 QUII!^CE CULTURE. 
 
 trees with emphatic assurance ^'Katy did, siie did." 
 These notes are continued all night. 
 
 The body is pale green ; the wings and wing-covers are 
 of a deeper shade. The legs are also green, and very 
 long. The thorax is rough, marked by two slightly 
 transverse furrows ; and being curved down a little on 
 each side, witli a slightly rounded elevation behind, 
 somewhat resembles a saddle. The insect is about an 
 inch and a half long, the female having a projecting 
 ovipositor. The wings are shorter than the wing-covers, 
 which, with their strong midrib and regular venation, 
 much resemble a leaf. These large wing-covers are 
 both oval and concave, and inclose the body within, 
 meeting above and below at their edges like the two 
 parts of a bivalve shell. The piercer of the female is 
 broad, laterally compressed, and curved like a cimeter ; 
 and in both sexes there are two little thorn-like projec- 
 tions from the middle of the breast between the fore legs. 
 The antennae are very long and slender. They attain 
 maturity in September and October, when the female 
 lays her eggs in two intersecting rows of eight or ten 
 each, along the twig of the tree, the bark being rough- 
 ened under them. The eggs are slate-brown, about one- 
 eighth of an inch across, shaped much like flax-seed, and 
 overlap each other like shingles. They are gummed 
 securely to the twig. They hatch in the spring. 
 
 Remedy. — Gather the broods of eggs on the twigs at 
 the annual pruning; or capture and destroy the mother 
 before she deposits her eggs. They are often found on 
 grapevines, both eggs and insects. 
 
 19. The Oblong-winged Katy-did {Phylloptera 
 ohiongifolia, De Geer) is so similar in habits of feed- 
 ing and laying its eggs as not to need any separate 
 description. 
 
 20. The Leaf-Crumpler {Pliycis incUgenella, Zeller). 
 — The common name of this insect is a very apv)ropriate 
 
INSECT ENEMIES. 
 
 129 
 
 one. Ill its larval stato it draws a few leaves together, 
 within which it iH-epares a place of abode, and in which 
 it winters when about one-third grown. With opening 
 spring it resumes activity, niid leaves its case in searcli 
 of food, and continues to grow till the early part of June, 
 when it shuts itself up in its case, and becomes a reddish 
 brown chrysalis about four-tenths of an inch long. As 
 a larva it was a third longer. As a perfect moth it 
 comes out in about two weeks, with wings expanded to 
 seven-tenths of an inch. The body of the larva is a dull 
 
 Fig. 114. — c, Head of Larva, ma^ified ; 
 d, Size of the Motli. 
 
 THE LEAF-CRUMPLER. 
 
 Fiff. 115. 
 
 greenish brown, with a horny plate on the top of the first 
 segment, and a flattened dark prominence on each side, 
 below the plate. Each of the other segments is marked by 
 a number of dark dots, each giving rise to a single brown 
 hair. The head is a dark reddish brown. Tliere is only 
 one brood a year, from eggs laid in July. There is a 
 striking contrast between the markings of their two 
 pairs of wings. The fore wings are pale brown, with 
 patches and streaks of silvery white. TJie hind wings 
 are plain brownish white. The under side of both pairs 
 
130 QUIN'CE CULTURE. 
 
 is paler. Besides the quince, it feeds on the apple, cherry, 
 plum, and sometimes the peach leaves. 
 
 Remedies. — Gather and destroy the cases in which 
 they hibernate. A small Ichneumon fly is a parasite on 
 it; and the two-winged Tachina fly (Tachina phycilce^ 
 Le Baron), which closely resembles the common house 
 fly, also preys on it. 
 
 ATTACKING THE BUDS. 
 
 21. The Tarnished Plant-Bug (Lygceus Iweola- 
 ris, P. Beau v.). — This injurious insect is about onC' 
 ^ fifth of an inch long. The males 
 
 are generally darker than the females, 
 the colors in both varying from a 
 dark brown to a greenish yellow 
 brown. The head is yellowish, with 
 three narrow reddish stripes. The 
 beak is about one-third the length 
 of the body, and is folded under it 
 when not in use to puncture the 
 buds, and suck out their juices. 
 Fig. ll6.-TARNisnED rpj^gg^ puucturcs sccm to poison both 
 PLANT-BUG (£'nZar^fl<?). ^, . \ ^ , * , i 
 
 the buds and young leaves. A whole 
 branch is sometimes seen to wither and die from their 
 injuries. The thorax has a yellow margin, with several 
 yellowish lines running lengthwise. Behind the thorax 
 is a yellow V-like mark, rather indistinct. The legs are 
 yellow and the wings dusky brown. When handled they 
 emit a disagreeable odor. Tliey do their mischief in 
 about three weeks. Tlicy hiy their eggs on tlie leaves. 
 The young bugs are wingless, and of a green color. 
 Otherwise ihQj resemble their parents. They are in- 
 jurious to the quince, pear, apple, plum, cherry, etc. 
 
 Femedies.^Thej are sluggish, early in the morning, 
 and may then bo shaken off and destroyed. 
 
INSECT ENEMIES. 131 
 
 ATTACKING THE FLOWERS. 
 
 22. The Pear-tree Blister Beetle {Pomphopoea 
 (Bniay Say). This beetle is a little over half an inch 
 long, with head and thorax punctated, and a little 
 hairy. The roughened wing cases are marked with 
 two slightly elevated lines. The color is a greenisli 
 blue. They eat the entire flower except the stamens. 
 They sometimes eat the tender leaves at the end of the 
 limbs. Besides the quince, they eat the blossoms of 
 the plum, cherry, etc. 
 
 The remedy is to jar them down early in the morning, 
 and destroy them before the sun warms them to activity. 
 
 23. A Beetle just about the size of the asparagus beetle, 
 
 Fig:. 117. Fig. 118. 
 
 PEAK-TREE BLISTER BEETLE. CHRTSOMELIANS. 
 
 but with yellow-striped wing-covers like the cucumber 
 beetle, is a Chrysomelian that sometimes riddles the petals 
 of the quince. It eats the buds before the petals have ex- 
 panded. They feed singly or in groups, and when dis- 
 turbed, hastily fly away. I first found them on the 
 quince in the spring of 1887. 
 
 attacking the fruit. 
 
 24. The Curculio {Conotraclielus Crafmgi, Walsh). 
 — This beetle is an indigenous insect. Its home is 
 tlie wild haw, from which it has come to be very 
 injurious to the quince. It is a little larger than the 
 plum curcuho. The color is ash-gray, mottled with 
 ochre-yellow. It has a dusky, almost triangular spot at 
 
132 QUIi^-CE CULTURE. 
 
 the base of the thorax above. The wing-covers have 
 seven narrow longitudinal elevations, with two rows of 
 dots between them. Its piercer is folded under the 
 thorax when not in use. It feeds on the quince both in 
 the larva and imago, burying itself entirely in the fruit. 
 Occasionally it attacks the pear. 
 
 In May the beetles come from the chrysalids, pair, and 
 commence laying their eggs in June. In piercing the 
 fruit they make a cylindrical liolo 
 a little larger than the egg, and 
 enlarged at the base. In this 
 the egg is laid, and hatches in 
 a few days. The larva burrows 
 through the growing fruit near 
 the surface, seldom penetrating to 
 Fig. 119.-QDINCE cuRcuLio thc corc. At maturity it leaves 
 (Greatly Enlarged). tlic fruit through a Cylindrical 
 
 opening, after which it buries itself in the earth two 
 or three inches deep, and remains unchanged till the 
 following May, when it pupates and becomes a beetle. 
 Remedies. — Jarring the beetles off the trees on sheets 
 and killing them, if thoroughly done, will prove effective. 
 Gathering and destroying the fruit that falls, or that 
 which does not fall if it has been stung, will be helpful in 
 destroying them. 
 
 There are several caterpillars besides those named that 
 prey on the leaves of the quince, which we have nob yet 
 been able to name with certainty. One is a large and 
 nearly black caterpillar ; and another is small, and mot- 
 tled like some of the span worms. 
 
ADDITIONAL INSECT EKEMIFS. 133 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 ADDITIONAL INSECT ENEMIES. 
 
 Since the first edition of this work was published sev- 
 eral additional insect enemies of the quince have been 
 discovered, or recognized as being more or less injurious 
 to either the fruit or plant ; consequently, I have 
 thought best to give a brief description of these, with 
 notes upon their habits, and remedies whenever known. 
 
 ATTACKING THE BRANCHES. 
 
 Xylotrechus colonus. — A small, slender, longhorn 
 beetle, somewhat less than one inch long, and of a light 
 brown color, and large dark patches on the back and 
 wing-covers. Has been found boring in the twigs and 
 larger branches of the quince, but mainly in those that 
 are diseased and dying. This insect usually attacks 
 diseased trees of various kinds ; consequently it cannot 
 be considered as especially injurious to the quince. The 
 most practical way of destroying this pest is to cut off 
 and burn all diseased twigs and branches as soon as their 
 condition is observed. 
 
 attacking trunk and branches. 
 
 The Cryptophasa unipunctata, Hon., is a very pretty 
 species of Lepidoptera. Years ago it was observed in 
 the Black AYattle, Acacia decurrens, but now is destruc- 
 tive to all trees of the Rosacew, and includes the plum, 
 apricot, peach, cherry and nectarine. 
 
 The full-grown larvae are about one and one-third 
 inches long; the truncated head tapers in front, with 
 ample mouth-parts for burrowing. The body is in 
 twelve segments, of a dull, pale chocolate brown, except 
 the second, which is pitchy black. The spiracles and 
 
134 
 
 QUINCE CULTUKK. 
 
 thoracic feet are paler. Along the back, placed trans- 
 versely, there is a series of double ovate shining spots, 
 which vary in intensity in different individuals. A few 
 short hairs are on all the segments, and most numerous 
 about the head and anal extremity. The caterpillars 
 burrow at right angles to the heartwood, and thence 
 downward twelve to sixteen inches, concealing the 
 entrance to their burrows by caps made of fragments of 
 
 V-^r^^—zr 
 
 Fig. 120.— CRYPTOPHASA UNIPUNCTATA. 
 
 a. Larva; 5, Lateral view of enlarged segments; c. Pupa; d. Anal seg- 
 ment or cremaster; e, Adult— all natural size except b and rf, which 
 are enlarged. 
 
 wood and bark, cemented together so as to resemble a 
 portion of the natural bark. When disturbed in their 
 burrows they move rapidly up or down, and are loath 
 to leave them. They pupate in their burrows near the 
 bark, and the emerging moth, having softened the cover 
 to the entrance, comes out early in the evening and 
 attaches itself to the branches, ready to meet its mate. 
 The moth is exceedingly delicate and easily killed. Its 
 
ADDITIONAL INSECT ENEMIES. 135 
 
 fine silvery scales rub off easily from its body, which is 
 ail inch long. The white fore wings spread two and a 
 half inches. The darker hind wings spread a little over 
 two inches. The antennae are pectinated, and about 
 half an inch long. Very destructive in Australia. 
 
 Remedy. — They are said to be attracted by light in 
 the evening, and when caught may be easily killed. 
 
 The Fruit-bark Beetle {Scolytus rugxdosus, Eatz.). 
 ■ — Fig. 121 is a very small but destructive beetle, that 
 attacks the plum, pear, peach, apple and quince. Weak 
 and sickly or injured trees are, or have been supposed to 
 be, its choice ; but vigorous, 
 healthy trees are destroyed by this 
 pest. It attacks the branches 
 and twigs as well as the trunk. 
 The beetles are very minute, dark 
 brown, cylindrical in their gen- 
 eral form, with wing-covers hav- 
 ing small punctures between the 
 grooves. The thorax is also 
 punctured. The head is verti- 
 cal, with short, strong jaws, and 
 anteuna3 short and strongly scolytu^kuJulosus. 
 clubbed. It is about one-tenth(^«/«»'yerf ticentxj tUaviettrs.) 
 of an inch long, and one-third as wide. The white 
 larva has a small brown head, and is transversely wrin- 
 kled, footless, and is as long as the beetle it produces. 
 The adult comes out in May, and fresh burrows are 
 formed as late as October. ''The female perforates 
 the bark, and, after pairing in the anterior part of her 
 nearly vertical breeding chamber, burrows longitudinal^, 
 laying eggs to the right and left as she progresses. The 
 larva3 eat laterally outward, forming nearly straight 
 channels, furrowing the sapwood more or less, unless 
 the bark be thick, and forming finally a pupal chamber 
 in the wood," from which the matured beetles escape 
 
136 
 
 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 through the numerous holes seen in the bark, each sim- 
 ilar to that by which their mother hrst entered. Fig. 
 
 122 shows perfora- 
 tions of bark, and 
 
 Fig. 123 a breeding 
 
 chamber under the 
 
 bark, both natural 
 
 size. 
 
 Remedies. — If in a 
 
 vigorous tree, flowing 
 
 sap may drown the 
 
 larvae, hence their 
 
 supposed preference 
 
 for weakened trees, 
 
 and the need of good 
 
 culture and care. 
 
 Trees very badly in- 
 fested should be 
 burned in the winter, when all the insects are in them 
 in the larval state. They have a number of parasitic 
 
 Fig. 122. 
 
 Fig. 123. 
 
 Fig. 124.— PARASITE OF LAllVA (CJiiropochys colon). 
 
 enemies, one of which {Chiropachys colon, enlarged eight 
 diameters), is shown in Fig. 124, and tiiey are also the 
 
Ar/DITIOiq-AL INSECT ENEMIES. 137 
 
 prey of birds that pick off the perforated bark and 
 
 eat both larva? and beetles. Washes, both poisonons 
 
 and offensive, are sometimes applied to the bark as a 
 protection. 
 
 ATTACKIN-G THE LEAVES. 
 
 The Kose Beetle ok Eose Chafer, Macrodactylus 
 suhspinosus, Fabr., is so named from its fondness for 
 roses, and its annual appearance is with the blooming of 
 the damask rose. The beetle (Fig. 125) is about seven- 
 twentieths of an inch long, with very long legs, pale red, 
 and tipped with black feet. The body is covered with a 
 short ash-colored down. It suddenly appears about the 
 time when grapevines bloom, and is active 
 from thirty to forty days, swarming upon 
 its choice of plants, which vary somewhat in 
 different years. Partial to flowers, it also 
 feeds on leaves of a wide variety of trees, and 
 clioice fruits. The female beetle deposits fij?. 125. 
 about thirty eggs an inch or two below the^^sE beetle. 
 surface of the earth ; these hatch in about twenty days. 
 The larva is a white grub, which feeds on roots till 
 autumn, when it goes below frost, returning in the 
 spring to pupate in May near the surface of the ground, 
 thus completing its life circle in a year. 
 
 Remedies. — Prof. Riley found E later idm larvae de- 
 stroyed the rose beetle larvge. They are not affected by 
 the arsenical poisons used for other pests, but yield to 
 carbolic acid, one gallon to one hundred gallons of 
 water, sprayed on plants they eat ; and to scalding 
 water and kerosene. Dusting with air-slaked lime, 
 or spraying with lime water, a peck to the barrel, is 
 also recommended. 
 
 Tent Caterpillar (CUsiocampa Americana, Har.). 
 — The moth is an inch and a half across the wings, 
 which are ashy brown or a pale brick color, marked by 
 two light lines obliquely across the fore wings. Their 
 
138 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 general color is a reddish-yellow brown intermingled 
 with gray. The female is larger and ligliter colored, 
 with antennae more slightly pectinated than the male. 
 They fly at night in June and July, and lay their eggs 
 on small twigs. TheiF first choice is the wild cherry, 
 and next the apple, but they feed on the peach, quince, 
 plum, and quite a number of other trees. 
 
 The full-grown larvae are about two inches long. As 
 they grow they enlarge the tent, and moult four times. 
 At maturity they scatter, and often go a long distance 
 before spinning the cocoon, in which they pupate in 
 from seventeen to twenty days. 
 
 Remedies. — Tachina flies and ichneumons are their 
 parasites. The Baltimore oriole and the cuckoo eat them 
 by piercing the tent, leaving their empty skins. A 
 spray of any arsenical poison on the foliage will be 
 effective. The eggs are easily seen by looking over the 
 infested trees any time after the leaves fall, and are 
 often in easy reach. Early in the morning and late in 
 the day most of the caterpillars are in the tent, and then 
 can be easily destroyed. 
 
 The Tingis {Corythuca arcuatd). — A small bug with 
 the thorax and wings spread out leaf-like ; the fore-legs 
 are simple, and the beak reaches to the end of the breast. 
 It sucks the Juice of the leaves of the quince and other 
 kinds of trees, sometimes occurring in sufficient numbers 
 to check their growth. **It winters in the adult stage, 
 hiding wherever it can find a chance, and makes its ap- 
 pearance in spring quite late, and in small numbers. It 
 lays its eggs upon the leaves in clusters, and from these 
 hatch the wingless bugs, which feed in company until 
 well grown. Late in summer they reach their full 
 growth, scatter about, and finally hibernate." 
 
 Remedy. — Spray with kerosene emulsion ; in autumn 
 burn accumulated leaves and rubbish that furnish win- 
 ter quarters. 
 
ADDITIONAL INSECT ENEMIES. 
 
 139 
 
 Gipsy Moth {Or.neria dispai\ Linn.). — This is a 
 European insect, introduced by L, Trouvelot of Massa- 
 chusetts about 1870, for the purpose of experimenting 
 in cross-breeding with silk worms. The experiment 
 was a failure. The insects escaped from him, and their 
 progeny has become Avidely distributed in Massachusetts, 
 but as yet not elsewhere. 
 It is destructive to almost 
 eyery kind of tree and shrub. 
 
 The male moth (Fig. 126) 
 measures about an inch and 
 seven-eighths from tip to 
 tip across the fore wings, 
 which are dark yellow- Fig. i26.-male gipsy moth. 
 brown, with black wavy lines across them. The hind 
 wings are an inch and a quarter across, and marked 
 with dark lines radiating out from the body, and divid- 
 ing as they spread. The outer edge of all the wings is 
 dotted with a row of black spots. The antennse are 
 broadly pectinated. The female moth (Fig. 127) meas- 
 
 Fig. 127. FEMALE GIPSY MOTH. 
 
 nres two and three-fourths inches across the wings, and 
 is marked much like the male on a very light ground. 
 The hind wings are two and one-eighth inches across, 
 very light, and otherwise like the male. The antenna 
 are thread-like, curving towards each other at their tips. 
 
140 
 
 QUIiq^CE CULTURE. 
 
 A full-grown caterpillar of this moth is shown in Fig. 
 
 128, and a pupa in Fig. 129. 
 
 Eemedies of various kinds have been tried and are 
 
 still in use, but the most effectual thus far has been the 
 gathering of the lai-vae and co- 
 coons by hand, although spraying 
 with poison solutions, and espe- 
 cially one made with arsenate of 
 lead, has proved to be of consid- 
 erable value. 
 
 The larva of an insect resem- 
 bling that of the corn-ear worm 
 (Heliothis armigera)^ which pu- 
 pates in the ground, did great 
 damage to the leaves of quince 
 and apple trees in June and July, 
 
 Fig. 128. Fig. 129. 
 
 1891, on the grounds of H. S. Buck of Coeur d' Alene 
 City, Idaho. This insect has not, as yet, been identified 
 by entomologists. 
 
 IKSECTS GENERALLY DESTRUCTIVE. 
 
 San" Jose Scale [Aspidiotus perniciosus, Comstock). 
 — This species of bark louse received its common name 
 
ADDITIONAL INSECT ENEMIES. 
 
 UL 
 
 from San Jose, California, where it was first discovered 
 in this country, and its specific scientific name is fully 
 deserved because it is 
 one of the most per- 
 nicious pests of fruit 
 trees generally that 
 has appeared in the 
 present century. It 
 was first seen in Cal- 
 ifornia about 1870, 
 and since that time 
 became widely distrib- 
 uted on nursery 
 stock, also on fruits 
 and on the bodies of 
 larger insects, birds. Fig. i30, limb infested with scale. 
 and by various other means. It infests the bark, twigs, 
 
 leaves and fruit of the quince 
 and other trees. At first the 
 young are inconsjoicuous, but 
 they rapidly increase in size 
 and numbers, till the bark is 
 incrusted with scales, present- 
 ing a grayish appearance as if 
 
 /_^ MK x:^? ^1 the trees were coated with 
 
 »\-^ (A .^^1:^^.1 lime, or ashes. In spring tlio 
 young appear crawling from 
 under the scales, and through 
 the summer there is a constant 
 succession of generations. The 
 young are active and spread 
 rapidly, until each female be- 
 comes fixed and begins to se- 
 crete a scale, and when full 
 grown casts off her legs and antennge, and there receives 
 the visits of the male, an active two-winged insect. It 
 
 Fig. 131. UNDEKSIDE OF A 
 YOUNG LAHVA. 
 
142 
 
 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 differs from the oyster-shell hark louse hy heing nearly 
 round, or slightly elongated and irregular. It is flat, 
 
 and when fully grown 
 ahoub one-eighth of 
 an inch across. The 
 middle of each scale is 
 marked with a black 
 or yellowish point 
 „ slightly elongated. 
 ^ When crushed a yel- 
 lowish, oily liquid ap- 
 pears on the bark, 
 often changed to a 
 purplish color. Young 
 scales are darker than 
 when older and larger, 
 and look black, while 
 those still younger are yellowish. A section of pear 
 stem is shown in Fig. 130, covered with the San Jose 
 
 Fig. 132. 
 
 ADULT FEMALE CONTAINING 
 YOUNG. 
 
 Fig. 133. ADULT MALE INSECT. 
 
ADDITIOIi^AL INSECT ENEMIES. 143 
 
 scale, natural size, while at Fig. 131 the underside 
 of a young larva, and at Fig. 132 an adult female, 
 both of the latter greatly enlarged, also a winged male 
 at Fig. 133. 
 
 Remedies, — Badly infested trees should be burned. 
 Insecticide washes and sprays may be used on trees les3 
 infested. Spraying with kerosene-and-soap emulsion is 
 highly recommended. Trees thoroughly washed in 
 winter with a saturated solution of potash, and in sum- 
 mer drenched with kerosene emnlsion, will be well pro- 
 tected from all sorts of scale insects. Its natural ene- 
 mies are the ApJielinics fuscipennis, a very minute, 
 yellowish parasitic wasp, a foe to all scale insects. Two 
 species* of lady-birds also feed on this scale. The 
 '^Twice-stabbed" lady-bird, CMlocorus livulnerus, a 
 black, hemispherical beetle an eighth of an inch long, 
 with a red spot in the middle of each wing-cover. The 
 other is Pentilia misella, a minute black insect, scarcely 
 as large as the scale it devours. 
 
 ATTACKING THE FRUIT BUDS. 
 
 A very small scarabeid beetle, the Valgus canalicii- 
 latuSy spends its larval stage in rotten wood. It is 
 numerous enough some years to do considerable damage, 
 eating out the fruit buds when they are small. A spray 
 of arsenical poisons is all that is needed to destroy them. 
 
 ATTACKING BOTH BUDS AND LEAVES. 
 
 The Eye-Spotted Bud Moth {Tmetocera ocellana) 
 is closely allied to the codlin moth, which it resembles 
 in size and form. Its generic name is from the Greek 
 word, signifying cut-horned, the base of the antenna? of 
 the male having a notched appearance. The specific 
 name is ocellana, from the Latin for eye-like, because of 
 the eye-like appearance of a spot on each f)-ont wing. 
 It was common in Europe over a century ago, and is 
 now widclv distributed in America. It has borne differ- 
 
144 
 
 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 ent names and classifications in the past, but all are 
 s3riionomous with that here given. Dr. Harris called it 
 the eye-spotted Penthina, and said : ''It is difficult at 
 first to conceive how such insignificant creatures cau 
 occasion so much mischief as they are found to do. 
 This seems to arise from the number of the insects and 
 
 Fig. 134. BUD MOTH, TWICE 
 NATURAL SIZE. 
 
 Fig. 135. LARVA, THREE TIMES 
 NATURAL SIZE. 
 
 their mode of attack, whereby the opening foliage is 
 checked in its growth or nipped in the bud." The fore 
 wings expand about three-fifths of an inch, with leaf- 
 like venation (Fig. 134). The head, thorax, and both 
 the inner and outer parts of the fore wings are dark 
 ashen gray ; their middle portion is cream white, 
 streaked with gray. The under- 
 side is darker, with light costal 
 streaks on the outer part. There 
 aie streaks of lead-blue in their 
 markings. The hind wings are 
 ashy gray. In June and July the 
 moth lays her eggs upon the leaves, 
 where they hatch and feed under 
 Fig. 136. Fig. 137. the protection of silken tubes which 
 they spin, drawing the edges of the leaves about them. 
 When about half grown, the larva, having moulted three 
 times, leaves its tube and leaf to seek a place for hiber- 
 nation in a silken cell which it makes in any angular 
 roughness of the bark near a bud. If the bark has no 
 angular ]ilace the larva cuts one to fit it, weaves its 
 silken covering, disguised by particles of bark and dirt. 
 Now it is about a quarter of an inch long. With the 
 
ADDITIONAL INSECT ENEMIES. 145 
 
 opening spring the little brown larvae leave their winter 
 quarters, resuming their destructive work, first in the 
 buds, and later upon the leaves. They are full grown in 
 June and July and then about half an inch long (Fig. 
 135), aud pupate ten days in a silken tube or cocoon 
 among the leaves they have killed. Fig. 136 presents a 
 ventral view, and Fig. 137 a dorsal view of a pupa, 
 twice natural size. When the moths emerge they keep 
 very quiet through the day with their wings folded roof- 
 like over the body, looking like the bark of the tree. 
 At night they pair, and lay their eggs singly or in clus- 
 ters of two to seven. The larval period extends over a 
 part of two years, but they are single brooded. 
 
 Remedies. — In Europe five species of parasites, and in 
 the United States three others, prey upon this pesf. 
 Besides these, the large mudwasp, Odynerus Catskillen' 
 sis, paralyzes this and other like larvae, and puts them 
 in cells of mud as food for its own young in its larval 
 stage. Birds also destroy them. Hand-picking has 
 been tried, but is impracticable on a large scale. But 
 for the protection of their webs we could destroy them 
 with kerosene emulsion. Paris green at the rate of a 
 pound to one hundred and fifty gallons of water may be 
 combined with Bordeaux mixture as a fungicide, and 
 accomplish a double protection. This treatment will be 
 most effective if applied when buds and leaves are ex- 
 panding, as then it eats part of a bud or leaf in one 
 place, or the side of a flower in another, so as to do the 
 most damage. Dr. Riley recommended burning fallen 
 leaves in autumn, and this is advisable in all orchards 
 and gardens for the destruction of hibernating insects 
 and many fungous diseases. 
 
 ATTACKING THE FRUIT. 
 
 The Apple Worm or Codlin Moth {Carpocapsa 
 pomonella, Linn.), was brought to America about 1800, 
 
146 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 and has spread widely. It adds the quince and pear to 
 its bill of fare. It is double-brooded, and very injurious. 
 The moth lays her eggs singly on the blossom end of 
 the fruit, where it hatches in a few days, and burrows 
 for the core, feeding as it goes. In three or four weeks 
 it is full grown, and crawls out of the fruit to seek a 
 place to spin its cocoon and pupate, coming out with 
 wings in ten to fifteen days later. The second broods 
 do not issue as motlis till the next spring. 
 
 Remedies. — Spraying the trees with any of the arsen- 
 ical poisons when the fruit is small, is most relied on to 
 destroy the larvae before they get into it. Those that 
 escape and mature in fallen fruit are trapped with bands 
 placed around the trees. Where there are plenty of 
 apples, other fruits are little sought; but in western 
 Kew York, where quinces are largely grown, the codlin 
 moth is a very serious enemy. 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 SOME FUNGI INJURIOUS TO THE QUINCE. 
 
 BY DR. BYRON D. HALSTED. 
 
 In this chapter the reader's attention is called to a 
 group of enemies of the quince that consist of minute 
 plants. Fungi are usually so small that they can only 
 be seen with the microscope, and consist of fine threads 
 which run into the substance of the quince stem, leaf 
 or fruit, and rob it of its vital juices. The spores they 
 produce are minute bodies, capable of growing into new 
 fungi when conditions are favorable. Spores serve the 
 same purpose for fungi that seeds do for higher plants. 
 
 The orchardist's attention is called to those kinds of 
 fungi that have proved to be the most destructive to 
 quinces, leaving out of sight a large number that occur 
 
FUNGI INJURIOUS TO THE QUINCE. 147 
 
 infrequently, as a rule, and without serious results. It 
 might be said in passing, that the quince, including its 
 foliage, branches and roots, lias no less than ninety-six 
 kinds of fungi upon it. Some of these that prey to a 
 disastrous extent upon the fruits are also found upon 
 the leaves, causing them to blight and fall away. This 
 is a matter of considerable importance when the question 
 of remedies is taken up later. 
 
 The fungi treated in the following pages are arranged 
 somewhat in the order of their appearance in the orchard, 
 and not as to their ultimate injurious effects. Many of 
 the engravings are from photographs of the specimens, 
 and, of course, all color and something of the other 
 characteristics are necessarily lost. However, it is hoped 
 the reader may be able, by their aid, to fully understand 
 the text, and obtain through both an insight into the 
 nature of these troubles. 
 
 The Quince Rust (Ecestelia aurantiaca, Pk.). — The 
 first fungus to make its appearance upon the quince 
 fruit in early summer is the rust. While the fruit is 
 quite small the fine threads of the rust plant grow 
 through it, and in one or more places the green color is 
 replaced by orange, the quince at the same time usually 
 becoming distorted. In the orange patches small pim- 
 ples appear, which continue to enlarge, and from them 
 short horns project and soon become ruptured at the 
 top. Within these horns or tubes the bright orange 
 spores are borne in great abundance and readily fall out. 
 Four young quinces thus ruined by the Roestelia are 
 shown in Fig. 138, and the horns or spore-bearing tubes 
 may be seen projecting from the surface of the young 
 fruits. As time passes, the affected fruit, failing to 
 grow or enlarging but slowly, becomes hard by drying, 
 and either falls to the ground or remains upon the trees 
 as a worthless and unsightly product until the close of 
 the season. 
 
148 
 
 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 This rust of the quince is a form of fungus that lives 
 during a part of its development on the two kinds of 
 juniper, namely : the red cedar and the low juniper, and 
 is recognized upon the stems by the swollen nodules and 
 the reddish color. 
 
 To repeat, the fungus known as Gymnosporangium. 
 clavipes, C. & P., one of the kinds of cedar galls, is a 
 
 Fig. 138. YOUNG QUINCES AFFECTED WITH RUST, 
 
 form of the rust {Rmstelia aurantiaca, Pk.) that attacks 
 and injures the quinces. This rust stage also grows 
 upon apples, hawthorns, and the Juneberry, or shad 
 bush, as it is sometimes called. It is often quite abun- 
 
FUN"GI INJURIOUS TO THE QUIN'CE. 149 
 
 dant upon the hawthorn fruit, but it is only wlien upon 
 the quince that it becomes of special interest to the 
 fruit-growers. 
 
 It is important to know that the rust grows on the ju- 
 niper in one of its forms. If the spores from the juniper 
 galls were prevented from going to the quince, the trouble 
 in the orchard would soon be at an end. Again, if it 
 were only between the junipers and the quinces the case 
 would be simpler ; but as it is, there are the Juneberry 
 and the hawthorns which serve as breeders of the trouble- 
 some parasite in the hedgerow and wood lot. 
 
 The rusts (and there are hundreds of kinds upon as 
 many different species of plants) are not subdued by 
 sjoraying with fungicides ; at least, this defensive art has 
 not been successfully practiced with them. They are 
 deep-seated, gross-feeding fungi, and have done the 
 larger part of their harmful work before their presence 
 is manifest. Properly timed, there is but little doubt 
 that spraying would check germination of the spores as 
 they come from the cedar galls, borne by the early spring 
 breezes. But knowing that the quince rust is associated 
 with the galls of the cedars, the best thing to do is to 
 destroy these trees and shrubs in the vicinity of the 
 orchard. The largest kind of cedar galls are associated 
 with a rust of the apple. 
 
 The Quince Frutt Spot {Entomosporium macula- 
 turn, Lev.). — When the quinces approach their normal 
 size, small brown spots appear, which soon enlarge, be- 
 come confluent and turn to almost a black color. The 
 decay is quite superficial and the ripe fruit thus spotted 
 may be used, but the size is not what it would other- 
 wise have been, and the price of the unsightly fruit is 
 much reduced thereby. 
 
 This spotting is due to a fungus that, upon the pear, 
 has been known for a long time as the one causing the 
 cracking of the fruit, and on account of the peculiar 
 
150 
 
 QUIN^CE CULTURE. 
 
 shape of the spores, shown in Fig. 139, has received the 
 generic name of Entomosporiiim, or spore resembling an 
 insect, while the last part of the botanical name, macu- 
 latum, means spot. In other words, the name when 
 freely translated is as descriptive of the fungus as it well 
 could be. The destruction which this fungus does to 
 the quinces is second only to the ravages it works in the 
 pear orchard, some varieties of the latter fruit failing 
 unless saved, as they can be, by spraying. If it were 
 
 Fig. 139. SPORES OF QUINCE-SPOT FUNGUS. 
 
 confined to the fruit the damage miglit be less, but both 
 quince and pear leaves suffer heavily. They become 
 spotted and early fall away, leaving the branches bare, 
 with their spotted and stunted fruit in full sight. It 
 goes without further remark that the tree must hold its 
 leaves green throughout the season to do the best work, 
 and the fruit is dependent upon the foliage for its sus- 
 tenance ; therefore, anything that defoliates is injurious 
 to the fruit, even if the latter in itself is not subject to 
 attack from the same enemy. A view of a badly spotted 
 
FUNGI INJURIOUS TO THE QUINCE. 151 
 
 fruit of the quince is shown in Fig. 140. If, for exam- 
 ple, worthless or neglected pear trees are standing near 
 quince trees that are troubled with the spot, it may 
 be that the former are the source of infection for the 
 latter, and should be removed. The rule works in the 
 opposite direction as well, and a hedgerow of starved 
 
 Fig. 140 BADLY SPOTTED QUINCE. 
 
 quince trees may be a menace to the choice sorts of pears 
 growing near by. 
 
 Bad as the fruit spot may be, it can be controlled, in 
 great measure, by thorough spraying, thanks to the pro- 
 longed tests of fungicides in this direction at several 
 experiment stations. 
 
 The Black Rot of the Quince {SpJiceropsis ma- 
 lorum, Peck). — A common, and therefore destructive, 
 decay of the quince appears upon the fruit when it is 
 
153 
 
 QUIN^CE CULTURE. 
 
 less than half grown. Almost in^ranably the first signs 
 of the rot are to be found at the blossom end of the 
 quince, and from there it rapidly extends throughout 
 the whole fruit. At first the skin, losing its normal 
 green color, turns to a light brown, and shortly after 
 this the dark pimples appear, scattered in the tissue 
 close beneath the skin, which is ruptured when the 
 spores are matured. The ripe spores are olive brown, 
 about twice as long as broad, and form long, slender 
 coils as they are pushed out of the small hole in the 
 skin. They germinate quickly in water, and therefore 
 
 render it easy to inocu- 
 late healthy fruit with 
 the fungus. An infest- 
 ed quince of small size 
 is shown in Fig. 141. 
 
 Some years ago the 
 writer made a study of 
 the spliceropsis of the 
 apple and pear along 
 with that of the quince, 
 and as the spores are 
 the same in size, the 
 coloration alike in all, 
 and inoculations easy 
 from one kind of fruit to another, it is safe to conclude 
 that the three are all the same. 
 
 A field observation in this connection bears directly 
 upon the results above stated, and has a practical value 
 that the orchardist will quickly appreciate. A large 
 apple tree stands in an orchard surrounded on three 
 sides by quince trees. The fruit, not of the best, is per- 
 mitted to drop and accumulate upon the ground in mid- 
 summer, it being an early autumn sort. These fallen 
 apples in 1890 were badly infested with the spliceropsis, 
 as also frequently the fruit upon the tree. It was a 
 
 Fig. 141. QUINCE AFFECTED WITH 
 BLACK ROT. 
 
FUNGI INJURIOUS TO THE QUINCE. 153 
 
 noticeable fact that the quince trees that were close to 
 this tree, some of them almost under it, were the most 
 severely attacked. While there was no actual transfer 
 of the infection by artificial means to demonstrate the 
 fact, the writer is quite willing to hold the opinion that 
 the quince fruit received the germs of the decay from 
 the apples that were rotting by the half bushel only a 
 few feet away. That the decay should begin at the 
 blossom end is not unexpected, for there the spores, and 
 the water causing them to germinate, would naturally 
 lodge. The growing filaments of the spores would there 
 find an easier entrance than elsewhere, because of the 
 adhering floral parts. Near by, and with branches inter- 
 locking, stands a pear tree, and the fruit was quite badly 
 infested with the sphcBrojJsis. Similar trees further 
 away from the apple tree were less troubled with the 
 decay, which only strengthens the opinion that all three 
 kinds of fruit are naturally susceptible to the same 
 infection, and the germs pass from one to the other 
 through the air, or by means of the various insects that 
 visit the fruits, especially those with broken surfaces, 
 due to partial decay. The inoculations that were made 
 in the laboratory seem confirmed by observations in the 
 orchard. If the assumption holds, and it appears to be 
 a sound one, it follows that the apple tree is a source of 
 spJimropsis infection for the quince and the pear. The 
 apple bears comparatively worthless fruit, and the 
 quinces are the most valuable of all in this instance. 
 There are several courses to pursue, the best of which 
 cannot be foretold. If spraying is to be employed, it 
 should be upon all three kinds of trees — apple, pear and 
 quince. If the axe is to be used, it should be laid at 
 the root of the apple tree. But if the apple tree is to 
 be saved, the fruit fallen from it should be removed and 
 destroyed. This, with faithful spraying, to be treated 
 of later, should save both the pears and the quinces. 
 
154 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 The Quince Pale Rot {Plioma Cydonia, Sacc.).(?) — 
 Next to the black rot the most prevalent decay of the 
 quince is the one that may be well called the pale rot. 
 This is a more rapidly growing fungus than the sphce- 
 ropsis, and may ran through a large quince in a few 
 days. It begins at any place upon the fruit, producing 
 at first a pale spot, from which tlie skin may easily be 
 removed. The threads of the fungus soften the flesh of 
 
 Fig. 142. PALE ROT OF QUINCES. 
 
 the quince more tlian those of the black rot, and the 
 skin soon wrinkles, and at the same time is ruptured in 
 many places, from which short tufts of threads develop. 
 These small spots, usually circular in outline, are at 
 first colorless, but soon turn to a handsome sliade of 
 pale blue. A fruit with these numerous spots, or broad- 
 faced pimples, is shown in Fig. 142, As the days pass, 
 there is a spore cavity formed below the surface of each 
 spot, and from this the spores finally issue in a thread 
 
FUNGI INJURIOUS TO THE QUINCE. 155 
 
 of slime through the ruptured center of the spot. 
 
 There has been a fungus found m Europe upon the 
 quince, which, from its description, may be the one 
 here under consideration. It was not met with upon 
 the stems associated with the rot in question, and as 
 access is not easy to the European specimens, the name 
 for the stem form is here given tentatively. If it is 
 upon tlie foliage in this country, it may follow that it 
 passes from the leaves to the fruit, and this view of the 
 
 Fig. 143. QUINCE AFFECTED WITH IMPE ROT. 
 
 subject suggests that leaf treatment might be as advan- 
 tageous for the pale rot as for the fruit spot and the 
 black rot. In treating for one the remedy would be 
 applied for all. This is an encouraging fact connected 
 with spraying for these fungous enemies. 
 
 The Ripe Eot of Quinces {Glceosporium fructi- 
 genum, Berk.). — There is a decay of apples which is 
 quite destructive, causing brown depressions in the fruit, 
 that become dotted over with pimples, producing multi- 
 tudes of pinkish spores. It has been known as the Bit- 
 
156 
 
 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 ter Rot, because of the disagreeable taste of the infected 
 parts. Since it has been proved that the same fungus 
 causes a decay of maturing grapes without the accom- 
 panying bitterness, the name of Ripe Rot has been ap- 
 plied to the fungus upon both kinds of fruit. That the 
 same species thrive upon the quince is shown by the 
 fact that the microscopic structure and measurement of 
 parts are the same, and the decay can be produced in its 
 normal form by inoculating the healthy quince with 
 spores that are taken from the grape or apple ripe rot. 
 
 Fig. 144. KIPE KOT OF QUINCE, FKOM APPLE. 
 
 A quince, with one side badly infested with the rot, is 
 shown in Fig. 143. The quince being still green, there 
 is little contrast between healthy and diseased portions ; 
 but the latter is evident from the shrunken condition, 
 as well as the numerous spore-bearing pimples to be 
 seen. A specimen of ripe quince fruit showing the same 
 trouble, but produced by inoculation from the apple, is 
 
FUNGI liTJUmOUS TO THE QUINCE. 157 
 
 seen in Fig. 144. This decay is controlled by the fun- 
 gicides to be later considered. 
 
 The Quince Blotch.— The most obscure trouble of 
 the quince that has been studied is what may be called 
 the Quince Blotch. There is no decay, in the ordinary 
 sense, connected with it, but the fruit when only partly 
 grown becomes blotched with black. This retards the 
 growth of the immediate portion of the fruit, and soon 
 the quince shows irregular depressions corresponding 
 with the areas covered by the dark development. 
 
 A fungus is constantly associated with this blotching, 
 and by isolation it was found to grow upon a colorless 
 jelly called agar, and produce spots that correspond in 
 outline with those upon the quince. The pure virus of 
 the blotch, removed from the culture tubes and intro- 
 duced into holes and cuts in healthy fruit, will produce 
 the first indications of the blotching, but in a few days 
 some other germs find entrance and the experiment 
 must close. 
 
 OTHER DECAYS OF QUINCES. 
 
 The fungi that have been briefly described do not 
 include all that produce a decay and destruction of the 
 fruit, especially after it has been gathered from the 
 trees. The most rapid decay of all is due to the pres- 
 ence of the black mould that causes the Soft Rot of the 
 sweet potatoes, namely, RUzopus nigricans, Ehrb. 
 This mould does not seem able to attack the quince di- 
 rectly, but gets a foothold through any bruised, cut or 
 otherwise mutilated surface of the fruit. Some other 
 fungus, which in itself is neither deep-seated nor, there- 
 fore, serious, may prepare the way for the mould, and 
 thereby be of much indirect damage. Fruit, for exam- 
 ple, that may have only a few small patches of the ento- 
 mos^joritim, or quince spot, is sometimes ruined by the 
 rliizoims starting at the affected place and running 
 
158 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 quickly throughout the whole fruit, when the quince 
 almost melts down and becomes black with the profusion 
 of spores upon the surface. 
 
 The gray mould {Monilia fructigena, Pers.) is 
 another enemy similar in habit to the black mould. 
 This fungus is one of the most serious to plums and 
 cherries, causing their decay in a few hours. While 
 quinces are not exempt, they, like the apples and pears, 
 
 Fig. 145. QUINCE SHOWY WITH DECAYS. 
 
 may be attacked if the fruit is packed while wet and 
 left without ventilation. 
 
 There is a black rot, strictly so-called, which is occa- 
 sionally met with in quinces. The fruit becomes almost 
 the color of coal. There is a fungus associated with 
 this, a member of a genus not usually accused of para- 
 sitic habits. It is a Pestalozzia, and does not seem to 
 be recorded for this fruit. It has not been cultivated, 
 and may prove to be the same as is found upon other 
 
FUNGI INJURIOUS TO THE QUINCE. 159 
 
 similar substances. In Fig. 145 is shown a quince with 
 striking forms of decay. 
 
 In this connection one cannot dismiss, without a word, 
 tlie thought that when fruits are nearing maturity they 
 are approaching also that condition when vitality is at a 
 low ebb, the seeds within the flesh being the only por- 
 tions abounding with life. It therefore follows that 
 fruits may be subject to both fungi that prey upon liv- 
 ing tissue and those which are satisfied with the non- 
 living organic substances. 
 
 The importance of keeping the natural barrier against 
 this latter class, in all its strength, cannot be easily over- 
 estimated ; in other words, the skin, if preserved un- 
 broken, will shut out the larger portion of the fruit 
 enemies of a fungous nature. Fungi that work upon 
 the skill and go no deeper may be among the most de- 
 structive kinds, because they provide an easy entrance 
 for forms of moulds that otherwise would be excluded. 
 
 TREATMENT. 
 
 In view of the fact that the quince fruit is subject to 
 many enemies, some making a vigorous attack, as the 
 rust in early summer, and others, as the fruit spot and 
 the black rot, soon arriving, while later on several spe- 
 cies make havoc, it follows that any treatment, to be 
 most effective in preventing the destruction, must begin 
 early in the season. 
 
 The two compounds that merit full commendation 
 here for their effectiveness in checking the ravages of 
 fungi in the orchard are the Bordeaux mixture and 
 cupram (ammoniacal solution of copper carbonate). 
 The following are the formulae for preparing these 
 fungicides : 
 
 (1) The Bordeaux mixture — 
 
 Sulpliale of copper, 6 pounds 
 
 QuickUme, 4 pounds 
 
 Water, 22 gallons 
 
160 QUINCE CULTUBE. 
 
 Dissolve the copper sulphate in one gallon of hot 
 water, and in another vessel slake the lime with a gallon 
 of water ; add tlie milk of lime slowly to the copper solu- 
 tion, stirring constantly, and strain through a sieve or 
 coarse gunn}^ sack ; finally, add twenty gallons of water, 
 and the mixture is ready to be applied with a spraying 
 pump. 
 
 Good results are obtained witli a mixture of half the 
 above strength, which consists in doubling the water, or 
 correspondingly diminishing the copper and lime. In 
 like manner a one- third strength is often recommended, 
 especially for the last sprayings. 
 
 (2) Oupram (tlie ammoniacal solution of copper car- 
 bonate) consists of — 
 
 Carbonate of copper, 5 ounces 
 
 Ammonia water (strength 4 F.), 3 quarts 
 
 Water, 50 gaUons 
 
 Wet up the copper carbonate in a quart of water, add 
 it to the ammonia, and when completely dissolved dilute 
 with water, as needed. 
 
 It is well to use the Bordeaux (1) for the first half of 
 the season, beginning as soon as the leaf buds open, and 
 spraying the trees at least once each week. During the 
 second half of the season, continuing until September, 
 the cupram (2) may be used. 
 
 There are so many destructive fungi common to all 
 fruit trees, that it is wise to spray all trees of the orchard, 
 whether apple, pear or quince. If fruit falls badly it 
 should be gathered and destroyed. Let no rot get a 
 foothold anywhere. 
 
 For the preparation of this chapter the author has 
 drawn largely upon a bulletin* he published a few years 
 ago. Some of the cuts have been reproduced here. 
 
 *" Some Fungous Diseases of the Quince Fruit," BuUetiu No. 91, New 
 Jersey Experiment Station. 
 
VARIETIES OF RECENT INTRODUCTION. IGl 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 VARIETIES OF RECENT INTRODUCTION. 
 
 BouRGEAT is a late importation from France, of 
 thrifty growth, and thick, glossy leaves of a deep green. 
 The fruit is pyriform, of good size, smooth, a bright 
 yellow, of excellent quality, and keeps well. 
 
 Variations of the Japanese Quince. — The flowers 
 of seedlings exhibit a variety of colors and shadings, 
 from blood red to almost white. There is also a varia- 
 tion in the shape of leaves and fruit. By years of care- 
 ful selection in the propagation, Wm. Parry has secured 
 fruit of large size, of a greenish yellow, with a handsome 
 blush, the surface ribbed like a citron, and covered with 
 small white dots. He has named it " Columbia." 
 
 Luther Burbank of California, has produced, among 
 his ^^new creations in trees, fruits and flowers," a dwarf 
 tree from seed of an improved Japanese quince, which 
 "is the shape of the Belleflower apple, but larger than 
 the largest, and as smooth and as fine shaped as could 
 be desired." We will name it for him the " Belleflower." 
 
 Johnson, produced by W. B. K. Johnson of Allen- 
 town, Pa., is a large, round quince, compressed at the 
 stem, with a moderately angular surface, downy in the 
 depressions. The color is greenish-yellow, marked with 
 small dots. The flesh is yellowish, comparatively ten- 
 der, with a mild aroma ; quality good ; ripens ten days 
 later than the Orange, which it very closely resembles. 
 
 Santa Rosa is a very large, fine-flavored quince, 
 highly colored and strongly flavored. It cooks very 
 tender, and can be eaten raw like an apple. The tree is 
 somewhat straggling, but a strong grower. The fruit is 
 smooth, and free from fuzziness. Mr. Burbank has 
 named it in honor of the place of its origin. 
 
162 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 Van Deman, so named in honor of Prof. H. E. Van 
 Deman, the former Pomologist of the Department of Ag- 
 riculture, who says, *' This variety is one of the very best, 
 in every respect, I have ever examined, and the tree is 
 reported as exceedingly thrifty and productive." Mr. 
 Burbank writes me that *'in California it often bears 
 three distinct crops, about a month apart, and some- 
 times four ; the last of the fourth is generally taken by 
 frost." The fruit is large, oval truncate, greenish- 
 yellow, flesh yellow, mild sub-acid, and of excellent 
 quality. 
 
 Quince 'No. 80 is a seedling of Rea's Mammoth. 
 The tree is like it in growth and productiveness. The 
 fruit is a deep orange color, and the flesh lemon-yellow. 
 It is nearly round, over thirteen inches in circumference 
 either way, with the stem inserted in a cup half an inch 
 deep, the basin of the calyx over an inch deep, and 
 about two inches wide. 
 
 California is a seedling of Rea's Mammoth. The 
 trees grow upright, and fruit quite young. The fruit 
 is pale lemon-yellow, tender, and of high flavor, free 
 from fuzz. 
 
CHEMICAL ANALYSIS. 
 
 163 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 CHEMICAL ANALYSIS OF THE ASH OF THE QUINCE. 
 
 Dear Sir : 
 
 After a long delay I am able to send you a complete 
 analysis of the ash of the quince fruits and wood which 
 you sent for examination. I fear that the chemical 
 analysis does not indicate very clearly anything of value 
 in regard to the nature of the diseases to which the 
 quince trees and fruits are subjected. 
 
 QUINCE FRUIT. 
 
 SPH^ROPSIS CYDONIA ROT. 
 
 CONSTITUENTS 
 DETERMINED. 
 
 A 
 
 B 
 
 Mean. 
 
 CO2+C 
 FREE. 
 
 co,+c+ 
 
 »i 0, 
 FREE. 
 
 Silicic Oxide, 
 
 *14.87 
 
 *14.87 
 
 *14.87 
 
 20.32 
 
 
 Pliosphoric Oxide, 
 
 4.40 
 
 4.46 
 
 4.43 
 
 6.05 
 
 7.59 
 
 Ferric Oxide, 
 
 0.42 
 
 0.42 
 
 0.42 
 
 0.57 
 
 0.72 
 
 Aliimiiiic Oxide, 
 
 0.12 
 
 0.12 
 
 0.12 
 
 0.16 
 
 0.21 
 
 Calcic Oxide, 
 
 4.58 
 
 4.58 
 
 4.58 
 
 6.26 
 
 7.85 
 
 Ma^nesic Oxide, 
 
 5.10 
 
 5.13 
 
 5.11 
 
 6.99 
 
 8.77 
 
 Potassic Oxide, 
 
 t41.02 
 
 t41.02 
 
 t41.02 
 
 56.06 
 
 70.36 
 
 Sodic Oxide, 
 
 tl.94 
 
 tl.94 
 
 tl.94 
 
 2.65 
 
 3.32 
 
 Sulplmric Oxide, 
 Carbonic Oxide, 
 
 0..53 
 
 0.85 
 
 0.69 
 
 0.94 
 
 1.18 
 
 25.20 
 
 24.90 
 
 25.05 
 
 
 
 Carbon (unburn t) 
 
 *2.30 
 
 *2.30 
 
 *2.30 
 
 
 
 Siilpliur(siilpliide), 
 
 trace 
 
 trace 
 
 trace 
 
 trace 
 
 trace 
 
 Clilorin, 
 
 " 
 
 " 
 
 " 
 
 " 
 
 " 
 
 Total, 
 
 100.48 
 
 100.57 
 
 100.52 
 
 100.00 
 
 100.00 
 
 *One analysis; tmeaii of 3 analyses. 
 
 PARTIALLY DECAYED (natural). 
 
 Constituents 
 
 A 
 
 B 
 
 Mean. 
 
 COj+C 
 
 CO,+C-f 
 SiOj 
 Free. 
 
 Determined. 
 
 Free. 
 
 Si O2 
 
 *9.19 
 
 *9.19 
 
 *9.19 
 
 11.72 
 
 
 1*205 
 
 9.59 
 
 9.59 
 
 9.59 
 
 12.23 
 
 13.86 
 
 Fcj 6, 
 
 0.42 
 
 0.63 
 
 0.52 
 
 0.66 
 
 0.75 
 
 Al'o, 
 
 0.08 
 
 0.11 
 
 0.10 
 
 0.12 
 
 0.14 
 
 Ca'o' 
 
 5.&4 
 
 5.50 
 
 5.52 
 
 7.03 
 
 7.97 
 
 Mg 
 
 5.90 
 
 5.80 
 
 5.86 
 
 7.47 
 
 8.47 
 
 K, 
 
 t45.14 
 
 t45.14 
 
 t45.14 
 
 57.60 
 
 65.23 
 
 NaoO 
 
 tl.64 
 
 tl.64 
 
 tl.64 
 
 2.09 
 
 2.37 
 
 SO", 
 
 0.91 
 
 0.79 
 
 0.85 
 
 1.08 
 
 1.22 
 
 CO, 
 
 $18.71 
 
 +18.71 
 
 +18.71 
 
 
 
 c 
 
 *2.79 
 
 *2.79 
 
 *2.79 
 
 
 
 s 
 
 Cl 
 
 trace 
 
 trace 
 
 " 
 
 trace 
 
 trace 
 
 trace 
 
 Total, 
 
 99.92 
 
 99.89 
 
 99.90 
 
 100.00 
 
 100.00 
 
 One analysis ; t mean of 3 analyses ; t mean of 4 analyses. 
 
164 
 
 QUIIfCE CULTURE. 
 
 TWIGS OF THE QUI:N^CE TREE. 
 
 HEALTHY. 
 
 Constituents 
 Detekmined. 
 
 A 
 
 B 
 
 Mean. 
 
 C(),+C 
 Fkee. 
 
 CO^+C-h 
 
 feiOj 
 
 FlJEE. 
 
 Silicic Oxide, 
 
 *2.49 
 
 *2.49 
 
 *2.49 
 
 3.72 
 
 
 rijosphoric Oxide, 
 
 3.54 
 
 3.64 
 
 3.59 
 
 5.36 
 
 5.57 
 
 Ferric Oxide, 
 
 0.15 
 
 0.15 
 
 0.15 
 
 0.22 
 
 0.23 
 
 Alumiiiic Oxide, 
 
 0.13 
 
 0.09 
 
 0.11 
 
 0.16 
 
 0.17 
 
 Calcic Oxide, 
 
 37.06 
 
 37.08 
 
 37.07 
 
 55.38 
 
 57.51 
 
 Magiiesic Oxide, 
 
 4.10 
 
 4.10 
 
 4.10 
 
 6.12 
 
 6.36 
 
 Potassic Oxide, 
 
 tl7.27 
 
 tl7.27 
 
 tl7.27 
 
 25.80 
 
 26.79 
 
 Sodic Oxide, 
 
 tl.69 
 
 tl.69 
 
 tl.69 
 
 2.52 
 
 2.62 
 
 Sulphuric Oxide, 
 
 0.68 
 
 0.29 
 
 0.49 
 
 0.72 
 
 0.75 
 
 Carbonic Oxide, 
 
 $31.63 
 
 +31.63 
 
 $31.63 
 
 
 
 Carbon (iinbnrnt), 
 
 *1.19 
 
 *1.19 
 
 *1.19 
 
 
 
 Sulphur (sulphide), 
 
 trace 
 
 trace 
 
 trace 
 
 trace 
 
 trace 
 
 Chloriu, 
 
 " 
 
 " 
 
 " 
 
 " 
 
 " 
 
 Total, 
 
 99.93 
 
 99.62 
 
 99.77 
 
 100.00 
 
 100.00 
 
 *Oiie analysis ; t mean of 4 analyses ; t mean of 3 analyses. 
 
 KILLED BY FUNGUS RCESTELIE AURANTIACA. 
 
 Constituents 
 
 j^ 
 
 B 
 
 Mean 
 
 CO2+C 
 
 C()2+C4- 
 
 Si O2 
 Free. 
 
 Determined. 
 
 
 
 
 Free. 
 
 Si o„ 
 
 *3.76 
 
 *3.76 
 
 *3.76 
 
 4.89 
 
 
 1*2 *^5 
 
 6.90 
 
 7.04 
 
 6.97 
 
 9.06 
 
 9.53 
 
 FejOg 
 
 0.15 
 
 0.15 
 
 0.15 
 
 0.19 
 
 .21 
 
 AI2O3 
 
 0.35 
 
 0.29 
 
 0.32 
 
 0.42 
 
 .44 
 
 Ca'o 
 
 13.00 
 
 13.00 
 
 13.00 
 
 16.91 
 
 17.77 
 
 MgO 
 
 6.15 
 
 6.01 
 
 6.07 
 
 7.89 
 
 8.30 
 
 K, 
 
 t42.43 
 
 t42.43 
 
 t42.43 
 
 55.18 
 
 58.01 
 
 SO3 
 
 t3.63 
 
 t3.63 
 
 t3.63 
 
 4.72 
 
 4.96 
 
 0.49 
 
 0.65 
 
 0.57 
 
 0.74 
 
 0.78 
 
 CO2 
 
 21.00 
 
 20.84 
 
 20.92 
 
 
 
 C 
 
 *1.77 
 
 *1.77 
 
 *1.77 
 
 
 
 s 
 
 trace 
 
 trace 
 
 trace 
 
 trace 
 
 trace 
 
 CI 
 
 " 
 
 " 
 
 " 
 
 " 
 
 " 
 
 Total, 
 
 99.63 
 
 99.56 
 
 09.59 
 
 100.00 
 
 100.00 
 
 * One analysis ; t mean of 4 analyses. 
 
CHEMICAL ANALYSIS. 
 
 165 
 
 BOOTS OF THE QUINCE TREE. 
 
 HEALTHY. 
 
 Constituents 
 
 A 
 
 B 
 
 
 COj+C 
 
 C02+C+ 
 
 Si O2 
 
 DETERMINED. 
 
 
 
 
 FKEE. 
 
 FKEE. 
 
 Si O, 
 
 *7.93 
 
 *7.93 
 
 *7.93 
 
 10.76 
 
 
 P, Ob 
 
 1.67 
 
 1.61 
 
 1.64 
 
 2.22 
 
 2.49 
 
 Fe, 6, 
 
 0.84 
 
 0.84 
 
 0.84 
 
 1.14 
 
 1.28 
 
 ALO;* 
 
 0.38 
 
 0.48 
 
 0.43 
 
 0.58 
 
 0.66 
 
 C\ao' 
 
 36.18 
 
 36.36 
 
 36.27 
 
 49.20 
 
 55.13 
 
 MgO 
 
 3.05 
 
 3.11 
 
 3.08 
 
 4.18 
 
 4.68 
 
 K^O 
 
 tl9.83 
 
 tl9.83 
 
 tl9.83 
 
 26.89 
 
 30.13 
 
 Na2 
 
 tl.70 
 
 tl.70 
 
 tl.70 
 
 2.31 
 
 2.58 
 
 SO3 
 
 2.09 
 
 1.92 
 
 2.00 
 
 2.72 
 
 3.05 
 
 co; 
 
 25.25 
 
 25.17 
 
 25.21 
 
 
 
 c 
 
 *0.57 
 
 *0.57 
 
 *0.57 
 
 
 
 s 
 
 trace 
 
 trace 
 
 trace 
 
 trace 
 
 trace 
 
 Cl 
 
 
 " 
 
 " 
 
 " 
 
 " 
 
 Total, 
 
 99.49 
 
 99.52 
 
 99.51 
 
 100.00 
 
 100.00 
 
 * One analysis ; t mean of 4 analyses. 
 
 KILLED BY BORERS. 
 
 Constituents 
 
 A 
 
 B 
 
 
 CO2+C 
 
 C()2+C+ 
 
 Si 0, 
 
 DETERMINED. 
 
 
 
 
 FKEE. 
 
 Free. 
 
 Si O2 
 
 *10.52 
 
 *16.52 
 
 *16.52 
 
 20.46 
 
 
 r„ O5 
 
 2.28 
 
 2.27 
 
 2.28 
 
 2.82 
 
 3.55 
 
 Ftj O3 
 
 0.78 
 
 1.10 
 
 0.94 
 
 1.16 
 
 1.46 
 
 Al'Os 
 
 1.18 
 
 1.00 
 
 1.09 
 
 1.35 
 
 1.70 
 
 Ca'O 
 
 41.38 
 
 41.38 
 
 41.38 
 
 51.24 
 
 64.43 
 
 MgO 
 
 3.89 
 
 3.97 
 
 3.93 
 
 4.87 
 
 6.12 
 
 K2O 
 
 11.47 
 
 11.46 
 
 11.46 
 
 14.20 
 
 17.84 
 
 Naa 
 
 1.76 
 
 1.76 
 
 1.76 
 
 2.18 
 
 2.74 
 
 SO3 
 
 1.45 
 
 l.M 
 
 1.39 
 
 1.72 
 
 2.16 
 
 CO2 
 
 tl8.30 
 
 tl8.30 
 
 tl8.30 
 
 
 
 C 
 
 *0.63 
 
 *0.63 
 
 *0.63 
 
 
 
 s 
 
 trace 
 
 trace 
 
 trace 
 
 trace 
 
 trace 
 
 Cl 
 
 " 
 
 *' 
 
 " 
 
 " 
 
 " 
 
 Total. 
 
 99.63 
 
 99.73 
 
 99.68 
 
 100.00 
 
 100.00 
 
 *One analysis J tmean of 3 analyses. 
 
166 
 
 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 WOOD OF THE QUINCE TREE. 
 
 KILLED BY BORERS. 
 
 CONSTITUENTS 
 
 A 
 
 B 
 
 
 CO,+C 
 
 ^'^fr!;+ 
 
 DETERMINED. 
 
 
 
 
 FREE. 
 
 Free. 
 
 Si O2 
 
 6.24 
 
 6.34 
 
 6.29 
 
 9.06 
 
 
 P2O. 
 
 2.92 
 
 2.78 
 
 2.85 
 
 4.10 
 
 4.51 
 
 0.78 
 
 0.78 
 
 0.78 
 
 1.12 
 
 1.23 
 
 AI2O3 
 
 0.50 
 
 0.50 
 
 0.50 
 
 0.72 
 
 0.79 
 
 Ca'o 
 
 41.74 
 
 41.66 
 
 41.70 
 
 60.05 
 
 66.03 
 
 MgO 
 
 4.92 
 
 4.85 
 
 4.88 
 
 7.03 
 
 7.73 
 
 K2O 
 
 10.49 
 
 10.42 
 
 10.45 
 
 15.05 
 
 16.56 
 
 Na,0 
 SO3 
 
 1.75 
 
 1.75 
 
 1.75 
 
 2.52 
 
 2.77 
 
 0.24 
 
 0.24 
 
 0.24 
 
 0.35 
 
 0.38 
 
 CO2 
 
 *30.38 
 
 *30.38 
 
 *30.38 
 
 
 
 c 
 
 0.44 
 
 0.47 
 
 0.46 
 
 
 
 s 
 
 trace 
 
 trace 
 
 trace 
 
 trace 
 
 trace 
 
 CI 
 
 " 
 
 " 
 
 
 
 
 Total, 
 
 100.40 
 
 100.17 
 
 100.28 
 
 100.00 
 
 100.00 
 
 Mean of 4 analyses. 
 
 KILLED BY BLIGHT. 
 
 Constituents 
 
 A 
 
 B 
 
 
 CO2+C 
 
 . C0j+C4- 
 
 SiO^ 
 Free. 
 
 DETERMINED. 
 
 
 
 
 FREE. 
 
 SiO, 
 
 *3.80 
 
 *3.80 
 
 *3.80 
 
 4.86 
 
 
 ?e.% 
 
 4.31 
 
 4.30 
 
 4.31 
 
 5.51 
 
 5.80 
 
 0.42 
 
 0.42 
 
 0.42 
 
 0.54 
 
 66 
 
 A1203 
 
 0.14 
 
 0.08 
 
 0.11 
 
 0.14 
 
 0.15 
 
 Ca 
 
 45.18 
 
 45.18 
 
 45.18 
 
 57.81 
 
 60.77 
 
 MgO 
 
 4.67 
 
 4.63 
 
 4.65 
 
 5.95 
 
 6.25 
 
 KjO 
 
 tl8.20 
 
 tl8.20 
 
 tl8.20 
 
 23.29 
 
 24.48 
 
 Na^O 
 
 tO.27 
 
 tO.27 
 
 tO.27 
 
 0.35 
 
 0.36 
 
 SO3 
 
 1.32 
 
 1.11 
 
 1.21 
 
 1.55 
 
 1.63 
 
 CO, 
 
 21.35 
 
 21.43 
 
 21.39 
 
 
 
 c 
 
 *0.40 
 
 *0.40 
 
 *0.40 
 
 
 
 s 
 
 trace 
 
 trace 
 
 trace 
 
 trace 
 
 trace 
 
 CI 
 
 " 
 
 " 
 
 (< 
 
 " 
 
 " 
 
 Total, 
 
 100.06 
 
 99.82 
 
 99.94 
 
 100.00 
 
 100.00 
 
 *One analysis; t mean of 3 analyses. 
 
CHEMICAL ANALYSIS. 1G7 
 
 They were all made in duplicate, except when indicated 
 otherwise, and the results of each duplicate analysis are 
 entered under columns A and B of each subhead. Fol- 
 lowing this is a column headed *'Mean,'' showing the 
 mean content of each particular substance as indicated 
 by the single or duplicate analyses. For the purpose of 
 more direct comparison the component parts of the sev- 
 eral samples have been calculated to material free of 
 carbonic acid and unburned carbon, and these results 
 are given under the column marked CO2+O free. 
 Since, in the case of the root, it was almost impossible 
 to exclude the sand, which was present as an impurity, 
 the data have also been calculated to substance free of 
 silica and carbonic acid and unburned carbon. These 
 data are contained in the column marked COa-l-C-l-SiOa 
 free. This explanation will enable you to understand 
 suflBiciently well the tabulation of the results. 
 
 As you will notice by the table, comparisons are made 
 directly between the same parts, as nearly as possible. 
 For instance, the quince fruit affected by rot is com- 
 pared directly with the quince fruit of a healthy nature, 
 although partially decayed from natural causes. In the 
 same way the ash of the roots of the healthy tree is com- 
 pared with the ash of the roots of the tree killed by 
 borers, and in a like manner the ash of the twigs of the 
 healthy tree is compared directly with the ash of the 
 tv/igs of the tree killed by the fungus. The ash of the 
 tree killed by borers is compared also directly with the 
 ash of the tree killed by blight. The above, I hope, will 
 be a sufficient description of the tables to enable you to 
 understand them thoroughly. 
 
 In regard to the lessons which these per cents teach, 
 a few conclusions may be drawn from a study of the 
 analytical results. The diseased quince fruit is decid- 
 edly richer in silica than that of the healthy fruit, while, 
 on the other hand, the healthy fruit contains a large 
 
168 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 excess of phosphoric acid over tliat of the diseased fruit. 
 The healthy fruit also contains a decidedly smaller por- 
 tion of potassium. All comparisons of lime, potash and 
 phosphoric acid which follow, are based on ash free of 
 silica, carbonic acid and unburned carbon. 
 
 The conclusions derived from these data are : that the 
 rot prevents the fruit of the quince from absorbing its 
 normal portion of phosphoric acid and tends to increase 
 the potassium, and indicates that a liberal fertilization 
 with phosphoric acid might stimulate the tree in some 
 way to withstand the ravages of the rot. 
 
 In respect of the roots of the healthy and diseased 
 trees, it is interesting to note that the healthy trees con- 
 tain far less silica in the roots than those of the trees 
 killed by the borers ; the proportion being less than one- 
 half. This may be explained by the fact that the soil 
 may work its way into the holes made by the borers. 
 The roots of the healthy trees also contain very much 
 larger quantities of potassium than those of the injured 
 trees ; while, on the other hand, the proportion of phos- 
 phoric acid present in the ash of the healthy roots is 
 decidedly less than that in the ash of the injured roots. 
 The injured roots also have a larger quantity of lime. 
 
 In regard to the twigs, there is a most striking differ- 
 ence between the ash of the healthy twigs and of the 
 twigs killed by the fungus. This difference is found in 
 the practical exchange of the per cents of potash and 
 lime. In the healthy twigs the lime is in large excess 
 over the potash, while in the diseased twigs the potash 
 is in very large excess over the lime. This is a most 
 remarkable fact and shows the effect which the disease 
 has upon the normal absorbing power of the twigs 
 themselves. 
 
 In regard to the ash of the wood from the trees killed 
 by borers and blight, it is found that the potash in the 
 wood killed by blight is in excess of the same constitu- 
 
CHEMICAL ANALYSIS. 169 
 
 eiit in the wood killed by borers, while the reverse is 
 true of the lime. In general, it seems that a diseased 
 tree tends to accumulate in its ash a larger percentage 
 of potash, both in the wood and fruit, than would be 
 normally present in a healthy tree ; in the roots, how- 
 ever, the reverse appears to be true. There may be 
 some exceptions to this rule, but the tendency is as 
 indicated. 
 
 Hoping that this information may prove of some use 
 to you, I am, Eespectfully, 
 
 H. W. WILEY, Chemist 
 U. S. Department of Agriculture. 
 To Key. W. W. Meech, Vineland, N. J. 
 
170 QUIN^CE CULTURE. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 BIRDS— TOADS— RABBITS— MICE. 
 
 Birds. — Much might be said of the value of poultry 
 in the orchard to destroy insect enemies. Insectivorous 
 birds are also valuable allies for the horticulturist ; but 
 in merit our domestic fowls outrank them all. It is ad- 
 vantageous to raise fruit and fowls together. It will be 
 to the advantage of both if the fowls are in number pro- 
 portionate to their field of operation. 
 
 Poultry are supposed to omit from their bill of fare 
 some of our insect friends, and it is probable the birds do 
 likewise ; but all insects are devoured by the toad, which 
 will clear your room of cockroaches over night, just as 
 he will your gardens of the vilest of your insect foes. I 
 find a movable fence, in sections that can be put to- 
 gether whenever it is wanted, a very convenient thing 
 for poultry. It may be made of lath nailed on scantling. 
 Others are using netting of wire cloth, and find it satis- 
 factory. It is to be hoped that the laws protecting in- 
 sectivorous birds will be generally respected, and that 
 our song birds will be left to multiply in our orchards 
 and gardens. The English sparrow is an enemy to be 
 destroyed, for doing more harm than good. 
 
 Rodents. — There are two rodents that deserve notice 
 as enemies of the quince, apple, and pear. 
 
 1. The Hare or Gray Rabbit {Lepus sylvaticus), 
 — The hare, or rabbit, as it is commonly called, injures 
 young trees by cutting off the tops and by gnawing the 
 bark from those too large to eat off. This is often a very 
 serious damage in both the nursery and the orchard. 
 They multiply rapidly, and sometimes become formidable. 
 
 Remedies. — They are easily caught in traps and snares. 
 They may also be poisoned by strychnine, a small portion 
 being placed on pieces of carrot, of which they are very 
 
BIRDS — TOADS — RABBITS — MICE. 
 
 171 
 
 fond. The bark may be protected by smearing it with 
 blood, or rubbing it with liver, or smearing it with 
 tobacco water, or lime water, with enough copperas 
 added to turn it green. A little cheap glue will make 
 the wash stick to the bark. Thick paper around a tree 
 will keep them from gnawing the bark. Charles Down- 
 ing recommends a paint made of a handful of flowers of 
 sulphur, half a spadeful of soot, a spadeful of fresh cow 
 dung, with a spadeful of hot slacked lime, applied on a 
 dry day. He says English gardeners set up swabs dipped 
 in melted sulphur among the trees in their nurseries. 
 2. Meadow Mice {Mus aTOco^^j?).— Meadow mice are 
 
 Fig. 147. 
 SAVING GIRDLED TREES. 
 
 Fig. 148. 
 
 known by yarious names in different parts of the country, 
 such as short-tailed field mice, ground mice, etc., and 
 are sometimes called moles, although they are very dif- 
 ferent from them. They are covered with long gray 
 hair, have very thick heads, and very short tails. They 
 all burrow in the ground. The greatest damage done by 
 meadow mice is gnawing off the bark of fruit trees. 
 They do this most when the ground is covered with 
 snow. Like the rabbit, they multiply rapidly. Their 
 hiding places may be found in brush heaps, under stacks 
 of grain and hay, and similar places. 
 
 Remedies.— Burn the brush heaps. Set the rails up on 
 end so as not to make a shelter for the mice, and keep 
 
172 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 cats or a dog to hunt them. Hawks catch them by day 
 and owls by night. Skunks, foxes, etc., also help to 
 lessen their numbers. But, after all, they will multiply 
 rapidly if grass and weeds are left in the orchard. The 
 rabbit remedies will also answer for mice. 
 
 Girdled trees may sometimes be saved, if the injury is 
 discovered before the wounds get dry, by banking the 
 tree with moist earth. A more certain way is by insert- 
 ing a row of cions around the girdled place, either by 
 halving them and inserting the ends under the bark 
 above and below, or by using strips of bark for the same 
 purpose. The edges of the bark should be cut smooth 
 and even to insure success. In either case they should 
 be well protected by grafting wax. 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 MEDICINAL AND ECONOMIC USES OF THE QUINCE. 
 
 Every part of the quince is useful. Its scarcity and 
 consequent high price have kept it in the good house- 
 keeper's list of luxuries. But when its cultivation be- 
 comes more general, it will come within the reach of all, 
 and be in still greater demand. 
 
 In the first century of the Christian era the old Eoman 
 Columella said: '' Quinces not only yield pleasure, but 
 health." A modern writer of note says : ^' Medicinally, 
 the quince is cooling and strengthening. The juice 
 is good against nausea. The ripe fruit eaten raw is 
 said to be good for spitting of blood ; also for swollen 
 spleen, dropsy, and difficult breathing." 
 
 " The quince in the Materia Medica," according to 
 Lewis and Woodville, ^^is astringent and stomachic. 
 The juice in nausea is to be given in doses of a spoonful 
 or two; so in vomitings, inodorous eructations, and some 
 kinds of alvine fluxes. In the London Pharmacy this juice 
 
USES OF THE QUINCE. 173 
 
 was formerly ordered to be made into a syrup called Syriip- 
 us Cydonareun. or syrup of quinces ; and was prepared 
 by digesting three pints of the depurated juice with a 
 drachm of cinnamon, half a drachm of ginger, with half 
 a drachm of cloves, on warm ashes for six hours, and then 
 adding a pint of red port and dissolving in the strained 
 liquor nine pounds of sugar. But the only preparation 
 of the quince it noAV directs is a mucilage of the seeds, 
 made by boiling a drachm of these in eight ounces of 
 water till it acquires a proper consistence. This has 
 been recommended in apthons affections and excoriations 
 of the mouth and fauces. It may be more pleasant, but 
 less efficacious than that of the simple quince." In 1831 
 Henry Phillips reported the cure of a severe case of 
 asthma at Horsham, in Sussex, England, by using quince 
 wine. 
 
 1. QuiKCE Wine is made of equal parts of quince juice 
 and water, with three and a quarter pounds of sugar to 
 the gallon, added before it is fermented. The seeds are 
 taken out before the fruit is crushed or grated. If the 
 water is omitted, the medicinal value will be greatly 
 increased. 
 
 2. Quince Syrup, made by boiling the richness out of 
 the fruit, and dissolving, in the water used, sugar enough 
 to give it a good heavy body, will be found delicious for 
 the soda fountain. Without the soda it is a pleasant 
 summer drink in water. 
 
 3. Quince Water, made by pouring hot water over the 
 dried fruit, and letting it steep awliile, is a good substi- 
 tute for tamarind water. It is most acceptable to in- 
 valids desiring a cooling acid drink. 
 
 4. Bandoline is made by covering the seeds with forty 
 to fifty times their bulk of warm water, which soon pro- 
 duces a mucilage used by perfumers and hair dressars. 
 Many ladies prepare it for themselves to keep their hair 
 in place. It can be perfumed with any kind of odor. 
 
174 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 By the addition of a little alcohol it can be kept for a 
 long time. It is this use of the seeds which causes the 
 great demand with druggists. 
 
 5. Quince Preserves are made by first cooking the 
 fruit soft, and then adding as many pounds of pure sugar 
 as there were pounds of the raw fruit, and simply scalding 
 it through thoroughly. The importance of not adding the 
 sugar to acid fruits till after they are cooked soft has not 
 been sufficiently understood. It is estimated to require 
 double the sugar if it is put into the fruit at first ; be- 
 cause the conversion of the cane sugar into glucose or 
 grape sugar lessens its sweetening power very greatly; 
 some say more than one-half. 
 
 The receipts in the cook books give directions for a 
 long and tedious process to do what is so short and 
 simple by this method. To prevent mould on jars of 
 preserves or jellies, they should be kept in a cool place 
 and covered closely from the air. A thin paper covering, 
 wet with alcohol or lard, and gently pressed on the sweet- 
 meat, is a safeguard ; or cover with a thin film of lard 
 without the paper. Melted paraffine jDoured over the 
 confections serves the same purpose, and is very easily 
 removed when they are used. 
 
 6. Quince Marmalade is made by cooking the fruit 
 soft, crushing to a pulp, and adding sugar to taste. Boil 
 slowly, stirring constantly to prevent sticking or burning. 
 When it falls oil a spoon like jelly, it is done, and can be 
 molded in cups and covered the same as jelly. One- 
 third sweet apples maybe added without more sugar, and 
 still the flavor will be sufficient to suit many tastes, 
 
 7. Quince Butter is made much like the marmalade, 
 except the addition of sugar. This is a favorite fruit 
 confection in the Philadelphia market. 
 
 8. Quince Compote. — Pare a dozen quinces, cut them 
 in halves, and take out the cores. Put in a preserving 
 vessel enough clear syrup to cover them, and add the 
 
USES OF THE QUINCE. 175 
 
 juice of two lemons. Heat the syrup, and add the 
 quinces, boiling well together. Drain the fruit, and pack 
 it in a compotier. Leave the syrup to thicken a little, 
 and pour it over the quince. 
 
 9. Quince Sauce is made by simply stewing the fruit 
 soft, then mashing and adding sugar to taste. The ad- 
 dition of one half apples or pears will greatly increase 
 the quantity and yet leave a good quince Havor. 
 
 10. Quinces Canned, or bottled as sauce, are as suc- 
 cessfully put ujD as any other fruit for similar use, only 
 remember to cook soft before adding the sugar, as, be- 
 sides the sweetening, there will be a toughening of the 
 fruit. I canned a large quantity in glass jars (the Light- 
 ning can preferred), first packing them full of the raw 
 fruit, then filling with water, and boiling till soft in a 
 common wash boiler on my cook stove. The safety of 
 the jars was secured by a very thin skeleton frame of 
 wood on the bottom of the boiler. After the fruit was 
 soft, the jars were lifted out, and the water poured off, 
 and half a pound of dissolved granulated sugar added for 
 each quart jar. This made a rich, heavy syrup, which 
 was returned to the fruit in the jar. Eeplacing the jars 
 in the boiler, they were soon boiling again, when tliey 
 were ready to seal. Lastly, they were inverted, and left 
 so till cooled. By this last process it was easy to discover 
 if the jar and sealing were perfect; if not, bubbles of air 
 would press in and show at once on the surface. 
 
 11. Baked Quinces are a favorite with some. Wash 
 and core, then fill with sugar, and bake in a dish or pan con- 
 taining a little water, to eat hot or cold with cream and 
 sugar. Or, having cut in halves, without paring or cor- 
 ing, boil till nearly tender, and then, covered with sugar, 
 bake in a hot oven, basting often with the syrup made 
 by the sugar and water in which they were boiled. When 
 done put a lump of butter on each half. Turn the syrap 
 over them, and serve as before. 
 
176 qui:n^oe culture. 
 
 12. Sweet Pickles. — Prepare as for preserves. Cook 
 tender in water, drain well, and simmer for five minutes 
 in a syrup of good vinegar, covering the fruit, and add 
 sugar, one and a half pounds to a pound of quinces, with 
 spices of cinnamon, allspice, mace, and cloves to suit one's 
 taste. The water in which they were boiled can be used 
 to make jelly. A pint of vinegar to seven pounds of fruit 
 is a good proportion for sweet pickles to keep well. 
 
 13. Quince Jelly, when well made, is unsurpassed. 
 Most housekeepers use the parings and cores of such as 
 have been used for some other confection. It is better to 
 leave out the cores, as the mucilage around the seeds may 
 make the syrup ropy, and hinder success. The skin, 
 with what adheres, contains the part of fruit richest in 
 pectine, and so is best for jelly. Indifferent fruit should 
 be cooked with the skins for jelly. Apples may be used 
 to increase the quantity of jelly without seriously reduc- 
 ing the flavor. Cook the apples, and then the quinces 
 in the same water. The color of all jellies may be kept 
 light by shortening the time of boiling ; and this may be 
 done by dividing the fruit into three or four parts, cook- 
 ing them successively in the same water. By the time 
 the last is cooked, and the pulp pressed and syrup strained, 
 the sugar can be added ; by measure rather than weight, 
 bulk for bulk. When the sugar is added to the syrup a 
 scum will rise, and should be removed. No more skimming 
 is necessary till it is done, when another skimming will 
 leave it entirely clear. The exact jellying point in the 
 process must be determined by trial as the boiling pi-o- 
 ceeds. Longer ioiling may reduce it to a syrup again. 
 As soon as the jelly is done, let the heat subside a little, 
 and pour into cups to mold it for use ; and in a few 
 minutes after, run a spoon around the top of the cups 
 to gather the film, when each will be perfectly smooth 
 and glassy. Preserve from mould as above described for 
 preserves. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Page 
 
 Adjiistable marker 45 
 
 Age ol quince trees 60 
 
 Agrotidce 1"2 
 
 J gratis clandestina 104 
 
 Cochranii 103 
 
 saucia 102 
 
 acandens 104 
 
 Aid from otliers 10 
 
 Aim ot autlior in writing 12 
 
 Allorhina nitida 89 
 
 Analysis, cliemieal 163 
 
 Anger's quince 21 
 
 Ants, black 127 
 
 red 105 
 
 Aphelinus viali 101 
 
 Apliides 109, 124, 127 
 
 Apliis laniqera 100 
 
 lions... 127 
 
 mali 124 
 
 malifolice 125 
 
 sch izoneura 100 
 
 woolly 100 
 
 Apple-tree apliis 125 
 
 tree borer, round-headed.. 97, 98 
 
 or Orange quince 22 
 
 Arctians 109 
 
 Ash of the quince 163 
 
 Ashes 18,86 
 
 AspidAotus Cydonim 100 
 
 Attacus polyphemus 119 
 
 Average yield of Meech's Pro- 
 lific quince 81 
 
 B;icl eria 82, 85 
 
 Bag-worm 110 
 
 Jiaked quinces 175 
 
 ]{;indoline 173 
 
 Bark-ijound ••• 94 
 
 liasket for shipping 79 
 
 l'>asket-worm 110 
 
 Beetle! 106 
 
 Birds, value of 170 
 
 Bending down branches 75 
 
 Bh'eding from pruning 74 
 
 Jilennocampa 116 
 
 Blight, description 83 
 
 Leaf 93 
 
 Preventive 95 
 
 Recovery 85 
 
 S|)read 84 
 
 Blossoms 75, 76 
 
 Wliich will bear? 77 
 
 Bordeaux mixture 159 
 
 1 
 
 Page 
 
 Borer, apple-tree 97 
 
 Round-headed 97 
 
 Remedies 99 
 
 When to look for 98 
 
 Budding 62 
 
 Buds, flower 69 
 
 Latent 17 
 
 Leaf 69 
 
 Threefold 18 
 
 Butter, quince 174 
 
 (Jalosoma calidum 106 
 
 scrutator 106 
 
 Caterpillar of handmaid moth. 106 
 Yellow-necked apple-tree . . lOG 
 
 Cellular tissue 18 
 
 Chalcidfly 101 
 
 Champion quince 24 
 
 Chemical analysis 163 
 
 Chinese quince 22 
 
 Chrysomeiians... 131 
 
 Cicada septendecim 101 
 
 Conotrachelus Cratcegi 131 
 
 Compote of quince 174 
 
 Corn emperor moth 112 
 
 Col ton tuft 124 
 
 Crate 80 
 
 Crops, average yield, value, etc 81 
 
 ( 'ryptus inquisitor 112 
 
 Cu'ltivation 42, 43 
 
 Cupram 160 
 
 Curculio 131 
 
 Cuttings, length and how to 
 
 plant 62 
 
 Cutting back 50 
 
 Cut-worms, climbing 102, IO4 
 
 Dark-sided IO3 
 
 Mamestra picta IO4 
 
 Variegated IO2 
 
 W-marked lO-t 
 
 Remedies for IO5 
 
 Ci/rtophyttiis concavus I27 
 
 Datana ministra lOe 
 
 De Kourgeat quince 25 
 
 Decay, occasion of 73 
 
 Digging the tree 47. 48 
 
 Diseases 82-92 
 
 Bacteria 82 
 
 Baik-bouud 04 
 
 Blight 83-86 
 
 Fungi 82 
 
 Leaf blight 03 
 
 Leaf mildew 92 
 
 77 
 
178 
 
 QUIJ^CE CULTURE. 
 
 Page 
 
 Diseases— Orange rust 86-90 
 
 Quince leal brownness 90 
 
 Quince rot 93 
 
 Yellow leaf spots 91 
 
 Drainaj^e 42 
 
 Dropping of fruit; why? 72 
 
 Drop- worm 110 
 
 Encyrtus 1 19 
 
 Equalizing the growtii 71 
 
 Erlosoma 100 
 
 Evaporation from soil 42, 43 
 
 Excess of wood 72 
 
 Fall web- worm 108-110 
 
 Fertilizers, artificial 36-40 
 
 Liquid manure 70 
 
 Lime 70 
 
 Salt 37 
 
 Flowers 19 
 
 Fontenay quince 25 
 
 Fruit 80 
 
 Keeping 80 
 
 Miiriceting 80 
 
 Thinning 70, 78 
 
 Wax-like covering of 86, 94 
 
 Fruitful branches, which are?. 72 
 
 Fuller quince 25 
 
 Fungi injurious 82. 146 
 
 Black roc 151 
 
 Blolch 157 
 
 Entomosporiuin maculatum. . . 149 
 
 Fruit spot 149 
 
 Glaeosporliim fructigenum 155 
 
 Gray m )Id 158 
 
 Gi/innosporanpiitni clavipes... 148 
 
 Moiillia fractigeaa 158 
 
 Pale rot, 154 
 
 Pest ilozzia 158 
 
 Phoma Cydonice 154 
 
 Ripe rot 155 
 
 Rklzopits nigricans 157 
 
 Rjestelid adrantiaca 147 
 
 R'lst, quince 147 
 
 Soft rot 157 
 
 Spfioeropsis malorum 151 
 
 Gathering fruit Um early 80 
 
 and marketing 79, 81 
 
 Girdled trees saved 172 
 
 Good pruning illustrated 72 
 
 Grafting, cleft 60 
 
 Crown 61 
 
 for early fruitf ulness 75 
 
 Sadille 61 
 
 Side 61 
 
 Splice or whii) 61 
 
 Time of 60 
 
 Gray rabbit 170 
 
 Grain or grass, do not plant in. 51 
 
 Hare, the 170 
 
 Healing wounds 73, 74 
 
 Heeling in, sloping and erect.. 51 
 
 Hendersonia Cydonia 91 
 
 Ilp.initeles thyridopteryx 112 
 
 Hide-bound 94 
 
 History of qnincre 13-16 
 
 Hi/phantria textor 108, 109 
 
 Hypercluria lo 112 
 
 Page 
 
 Hyperchiria varia 112 
 
 Iclineiinions 105, 106 
 
 Insect enemies 97, 131, 133 
 
 Aphides (for var. st-e 
 
 aphides) 101, 124, 127 
 
 Apple-ti-ee boi'er, round- 
 headed 97, 98 
 
 Apple worm 145 
 
 Aspid Lotus pei'niciosus 140 
 
 liag, basket or drop-worm.. 110 
 
 Carpocapsa pomo7iella 145 
 
 Caterpillar of handmaid 
 
 moth 108 
 
 Chiropachys colon 136 
 
 Chrysonieiians 131 
 
 Clisiocampa Americana 137 
 
 Codlinmoth 145 
 
 Corn emperor moth 112 
 
 Corythiica arcuata 138 
 
 Cotton tuft 124 
 
 Cryptophasa unipunctata 133 
 
 Curcuiio 131 
 
 Cut-worms 102-105 
 
 Eye-spotted bud moth 143 
 
 Fall web-worm 108-110 
 
 Fruit bark beetle 135 
 
 Gipsy moth 139 
 
 Katydid 127, 128 
 
 Leaf crumpler 128 
 
 Locust 101 
 
 Macrodactylus subspinosus . . . 137 
 
 Ocneria dlspar 139 
 
 Pear-tree blister beetle 131 
 
 Penthina 144 
 
 Polyphemus moth 119-123 
 
 Quince scale 100 
 
 Rose beetle 137 
 
 San Jose scale 140 
 
 Scolytus rugulosus 135 
 
 Slug 116 
 
 Spined soldier-bug 110 
 
 Tarnished plant-bug 130 
 
 Tent caterpillar 137 
 
 Tingis 138 
 
 Tmetocera orellana 143 
 
 Valgus canaliculatus 143 
 
 Vapored mol h 115 
 
 White-marked tussock 
 
 moth 115, 116 
 
 Xylotrechtis colonus. 133 
 
 Insect friends 106, 130 
 
 Allorhina nitida 89 
 
 Aphelinus fuscipennis 143 
 
 Apliis-lions 127 
 
 Calosoma scrutator 1 06 
 
 Calosoma calidum 1 06 
 
 Chalcid fly 101 
 
 Chilocorus bivulnerus 143 
 
 Cryptus inquisitor 112 
 
 Dung beetle 89 
 
 Encyrtus 119 
 
 Ilermiteles thyridopteryx 112 
 
 Ichneumons 105, 106, 112 
 
 Lace- winged flies 127 
 
 Lidy-bujis 127, 143 
 
 Long-tailed ophion 115 
 
INDEX. 
 
 179 
 
 Page 
 Insect frienf\s—Odynerus Cats- 
 kill ensis 1 45 
 
 Pentilia misella 143 
 
 Red ants 105 
 
 Syrphus flies 127 
 
 Tachina flies 106, 108 
 
 Tachina phycitoe 130 
 
 Japanese quince 27, 161 
 
 Jelly, quince 176 
 
 Katydid, broad-winged 127 
 
 Oblong-winged 128 
 
 Keeping a record 54 
 
 Keeping fruit 80 
 
 Knowledge necessary to suc- 
 cess 9 
 
 Lace-winged flies 127 
 
 Lady-birds 127 
 
 Lagoa crispata 124 
 
 Largest quince t ree on record . . 50 
 
 Layering 56, 57 
 
 Laying out tlie orchard 45, 47 
 
 Leaf blight 93 
 
 Grumpier 128 
 
 Mildew 92 
 
 Leaves 18 
 
 Lenticelles 17, 29 
 
 Lepus syh^aticus 133 
 
 Life force 19 
 
 Lime 70, 86 
 
 Lindley's law for leaf and 
 
 flower-buds 69 
 
 Liquid manure 70 
 
 Locating board 47 
 
 Locust, seventeen-year 101 
 
 Long-tailed ophion 115 
 
 LygcBus lineolaris 130 
 
 JMarnestra jyicta 104 
 
 Manual needed 9 
 
 Manuring 36-40 
 
 Common sources of 39 
 
 Ciieraical 40 
 
 Necessity of 36 
 
 Marketing 80 
 
 Marmalade 174 
 
 Meadow m ice 171 
 
 Medical uses of the quince 172 
 
 Meech's Prolific quince 27 
 
 Mice, meadow 171 
 
 Mildew 92 
 
 Missouri Mammoth quince 29 
 
 Morthiera Mespili 90, 91 
 
 Moults of caterpillars 107 
 
 Mound layers 57 
 
 Mulching 47 
 
 Mus arvicolce 171 
 
 Musk or Pineapple quince 30 
 
 New upright quince 25 
 
 Nitrogen , sources of 39 
 
 Ophion, long-tailed 115 
 
 Ophion macruruni 115, 124 
 
 Orange or Apple quince 22 
 
 Orange rust 86 
 
 Orchard, layinu: out the 43, 47 
 
 Orgyia leucostigma 115, 1 16 
 
 Overl>earing 77 
 
 P:ir;isites 108 
 
 Pear quince 31 
 
 Pacre 
 
 Pear-tree blister beetle 131 
 
 Slug 116 
 
 Phycis indiginella 128 
 
 Phylloptera oblongifolia 128 
 
 Pickles, sweet 176 
 
 Pinching in 71 
 
 Pineapple quince 30 
 
 Planting 45, 47 
 
 Distance apart 49 
 
 Platyphyllum concavus 127 
 
 Podisus spinosus 110 
 
 Podosphcera tridactyla 92 
 
 Polyphemus moth 119 
 
 Pomphopcea cenia 131 
 
 Portugal quince 31 
 
 Poultry, aid of 170 
 
 Price of quinces 81 
 
 Principles to be understood — 12 
 
 Profits 81 
 
 Promoting fruitfulness with- 
 out pruning 74, 75 
 
 Propagation 57, 62 
 
 By budding 62 
 
 cuttings 57, 59 
 
 grafting 59 
 
 layering 57 
 
 root grafting 58 
 
 root cuttings 59 
 
 seeds 55 
 
 sprouts 57 
 
 stool layers 57 
 
 Best time to layer 57 
 
 Formation of callus 57 
 
 How to plant cuttings 59 
 
 Keepiiig buds dormant 8 
 
 Length of cuttings 57 
 
 On what to graft 59 
 
 Preparing for planting 58, 59 
 
 Time to plant 59 
 
 Pruning at transplanting 63 
 
 for f orni 65 
 
 Fruitfulness 68 
 
 Good pruning illustrated. .. 72 
 
 Healing wounds 73, 74 
 
 Pruning limbs 71 
 
 Root pruning 69 
 
 To promot e growth 67 
 
 When to prune limbs 71 
 
 Roots 70 
 
 with saw 73 
 
 Shears 74 
 
 Quinces among the Greeks 13 
 
 among the Romans .... 13 
 
 in America 16 
 
 Botany 13 
 
 Etymology 13 
 
 France 16 
 
 Italy 15 
 
 Persia 15 
 
 Tradition 13 
 
 Parts of tree 17 
 
 Curculio 131 
 
 Scale 100 
 
 Rot 93 
 
 Trees, ornamental 11 
 
 Rabbit, the gray 170 
 
 Rcestilia aurantiaca 86, 89 
 
180 
 
 QUINCE CULTURE. 
 
 Page 
 
 Rea's Mammoth quince 32 
 
 Recipes 173-176 
 
 Quinces, baked 175 
 
 Quince bandoline 173 
 
 Butter 174 
 
 Canned 175 
 
 Compote 174 
 
 Jelly 176 
 
 Marmalade 174 
 
 Preserves 174 
 
 Sauce 175 
 
 Sweet pickles 176 
 
 Syrup 173 
 
 Water 173 
 
 Wine 173 
 
 Red ants 105 
 
 Remedies for aphides... 101, 126, 127 
 Bag, basket or drop worm.. 112 
 
 Borers 99 
 
 Caterpillar of handmaid 
 
 motli 108 
 
 Emperor moth 114 
 
 Curculio 132 
 
 Cut-worms 105 
 
 Fall web- worm 108 
 
 Katydids 128 
 
 Leaf crumpler 130 
 
 Lice 134 
 
 Fear-tree blister bee le 131 
 
 Pear-tree slug 118, 119 
 
 Polyphemus moth 123 
 
 Rabbits 170 
 
 Scale 100 
 
 Spined soldier-bug 110 
 
 Tarnished plant-bug 130 
 
 Vaporer, or white tussock 
 
 moth 116 
 
 Restoring withered trees 51 
 
 Ringing branches for early fruit 75 
 
 Rodents 170 
 
 Roots 17, 48 
 
 Tap 17 
 
 Lateral 17 
 
 Root cuttings 59 
 
 Grafting 58 
 
 Pruning, how, when 69 
 
 Rot 93 
 
 Round-lieaded apple-tree borer 97 
 
 Sack-trager 110 
 
 Salt as a fertilizer 37 
 
 Saperda bivittata 97 
 
 Candida 97 
 
 Satumia lo 112 
 
 Sauce, quince 138 
 
 Seeds 55 
 
 Selandria Cerasi 116 
 
 Slieiirs belter than knife 74 
 
 Soils 33, 35 
 
 Draining 35 
 
 Effect on quality of fruit ... 35 
 
 How kept moist* 35 
 
 How selected 34 
 
 Kinds 33 
 
 Sphceropsis Cydonice 93 
 
 Spined soklier-bug 110 
 
 Sprouts from stumps 57 
 
 Step-ladder 7J 
 
 Page 
 
 Stipule.s 18 
 
 Stool layers 57 
 
 Straightening trees 55 
 
 Suber cells 94 
 
 Sweet pickles 176 
 
 Sweet quince 32 
 
 Syrphus flies 127 
 
 Syrphus polihis 127 
 
 Syrup, quince 136 
 
 Tacliina flies 105, 108 
 
 Tachina ])hycitce 130 
 
 Tarnished plant-bug 130 
 
 Telea Polyjjhemus 119 
 
 Thinning fruit, wlien, which 
 
 70, 77, 78 
 
 Th yridopteryx ephemerceformis. .. 110 
 
 Tiger moths 109 
 
 Toads 133 
 
 Trenching 41 
 
 Transplanting 47, 49, 70 
 
 to bring into bearing 70 
 
 Care in planting 50 
 
 Cutting back 50 
 
 Keeping a record 54 
 
 Preparing ground 50 
 
 Size for transi)lanting 50 
 
 Time 52,54 
 
 Unfavorable weatlier 75, 76 
 
 Vaporer moth 115 
 
 Varieties 20-32, 161 
 
 Anger's 21 
 
 Apple, or Orange 22 
 
 Belleflower 161 
 
 California 162 
 
 Champion 24 
 
 Cliinese 25 
 
 Columbia 161 
 
 De Bourgeat 25, 161 
 
 Fontenay, or new upright. . 25 
 
 Fuller 25 
 
 Japanese 27, 161 
 
 Johnson 161 
 
 Meech's Prolific 27 
 
 Missouri Mammoth 29 
 
 Musk, or Pineapple 30 
 
 No. 80 162 
 
 Pear 31 
 
 Portugal 31 
 
 Rea's Mammoth 32 
 
 Santa Rosa 161 
 
 Seedlings numerous 21 
 
 Sweet quince 32 
 
 Van Deman 162 
 
 AVhat constitutes a variety. 20 
 
 When to sell quinces 80 
 
 White-marked tussock moth. .. 115 
 
 Winds, effect of 54 
 
 Wine 173 
 
 Winter-killing, causes, protec- 
 tion against 95, 90 
 
 Wood 18 
 
 Woolly aphis 100, 101 
 
 Wounds from pruning 73, 74 
 
 Yellow leaf-spots 91 
 
 Yellow-necked apple-tree cat- 
 erpillar 106 
 
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 grow Mushrooms. This is the most practical work on the subject 
 ever written, and the only book on growing Mushrooms published 
 in America. The author describes how he grows Mushrooms, and 
 how they are grown for profit by the leading market gardeners, and 
 for home use by the most successful private growers. Engraving* 
 drawn from nature expressly for this work. By Wm. Falconer. 
 Cloth. Price, postpaid. l.5it 
 
 Land Draining. 
 
 A Handbook for Farmers on the Principles and Practice of Drain 
 Ing, by Manly Miles, giving the results of his extended experience 
 ii:. laying tile drains. The directions for the laying out and the 
 construction of tile drains will enable the farmer to avoid the 
 errors of imperfect construction, and the disappointment that 
 must necessarily follow. Tliis manual for practical farmers will 
 also be found convenient for references in regard to many ques- 
 tions that may arise in crop growing, aside from the special sub- 
 jects of drainage of which it treats. Cloth, 12mo. 1.00 
 
 Allen's New American Farm Book. 
 
 The very best work on the subject; comprising all that can be con- 
 densed into an available volume. Originally by Richard L. Allen. 
 Revised and greatly enlarged by Lewis F. Allen. Cloth, 12mo. 2.50 
 
 Henderson's Gardening: for Profit. 
 
 By Peter Henderson. The standard work on Market and Family 
 Gardening. The successful experience of the author for more than 
 thirty years, and his willingness to tell, as hejdoes in this work, the 
 secret of his success for the benefit of others, enables him to give 
 most valuable information. The book is profusely illustrated. 
 Cloth, 12m o. a 10 
 
 Henderson's Gardening for Pleasure. 
 
 A guide to the amateur in the fruit, vegetable and flower garden, 
 with full descriptions for the greenhouse, conservatory and window 
 garden. It meets the wants of all classes in couiitry, city and vil- 
 lage who keep a garden for their own enjoyment rather than for 
 the sale of products. By Peter Henderson. Finely Illustrated. 
 Cloth, 12mo. 2.00 
 
 Johnson's How Crops Grow. 
 
 New Edition. A Treatise on the Chemical Composition, Structure 
 and Life of the Plant. Revised Edition. This book is a guide to 
 the knowledge of agricultural plants, their composition, their 
 structure and modes of development and growth ; of the complex 
 organizations of plants, and the use of the pans; the germination 
 of seeds, and the food of plants obtained both from the air and 
 the soil. The book is a valuable one to all real students of agricul- 
 ture. With numerous illustrations and tables of analysis. By Prof. 
 Samuel W. UolmMU Of Yale CoUege. ^.loth, 12iuo* K^ 
 
STANDARD BOOKSi % 
 
 Johnson's How Crops Feel 
 
 A 'I'reatise on the Atmosphere and the Soil, as related in the 
 Nutrition of Agricultural Plants. This volume— the companion and 
 complement to "How Crops Grow"— has been welcomed by those 
 who appreciate the scientific aspects of agriciilture. Illustrated. 
 By Prof. Samuel W. Johnson. Cloth, 12mo. 2.00 
 
 Market Gardening: and Farm Notes. 
 
 By Barnet Landreth. Experiences and Observations for both 
 North and South, of Interest to the Amateur Gardener, Trucker and 
 Farmer. A novel feature of th-e book is the calendar of farm an J 
 garden operations for each month of the year; the chapters or 
 fertilizers, transplanting, succession and rotation of crops, 1h 
 packing, shipping and marketing of vegetables, will be especially 
 useful to market gardeners. Cloth, 12mo. 1.0'^ 
 
 Forest Planting:, 
 
 A Treatise on the Care of Woodlands and the Restoration of the 
 Denuded Timber-Lands on Plains and Mountains. By H. Nicholan 
 Jarchow, LL. D. The author has fully described those European 
 methods which have proved to be most useful in maintaining the 
 superb forests of the old world. This < perience has been adapted 
 to the different climates and trees of America, full instructions be- 
 ing given for forest planting on - various kinds of soil and siil)- 
 soll, whether on mountain or valley. Illustrated, 12mo. 1.5'> 
 
 Harris' Talks on Manures. 
 
 By Joseph Harris, M. S., author of "Walks and Talks on the Farm," 
 "Harris on the Pig," etc. Revised and enlarged by the author. A 
 series of familiar and practical talks between tlie author and the 
 Deacon, the Doctor, and other neighbors, on tlie whole subject o< 
 manures and fertilizers; including a chapter especially written for 
 it, by Sir John Bennet Lawes of Rothamsted, England. Cloth, 
 12mo. 1.75 
 
 Truck Farming: at the South. 
 
 A work which gives the experience of a successful grower of veg». 
 tables or " truck' for Northern markets. Essential to any one who 
 contemplates entering this promising field of Agriculture. By A. 
 Uemler of Georgia. Illustrated, cloth, 12mo. 1.50 
 
 Sweet Potato Culture. 
 
 Giving full instructions from starting the plants to harvesting and 
 storing the crop. With a chapter on the Chinese Yam. Hy James 
 Fitz, Keswich, Va., author of "Southern Apple and Peach Culture." 
 Cloth, 12mo. .60 
 
 Heinrich's Window Flower Garden. 
 
 The author is a practical florist, and this enterprising volume em- 
 bodies his personal experiences in Window Gardening during a 
 Jong period. New and enlarged edition. JJy Joliua J. Heinriotu 
 #ully illusUatecu CiotU,.i*ttO» jl 
 
4 gTiN-DAIlD Boots. 
 
 Greenhouse Construction. 
 
 By Prof. L. R. Taft. A complete treatise on Greenhouse structures 
 and arrangements of the various forms and styles of Plant Houses 
 for professional llorists as well as amateurs. All the best and most 
 approved structures are so fully and clearly described that anyone 
 who desires to build a Greenliouse will have no difficulty in deter- 
 mining the kind best suited to liis purpose. The modern and most 
 siiccessftil methods of heating and ventilating are fully treated 
 upon. Special chapters are devoted to Louses used for the growing 
 of one kind of plants exclusively. The construction of hotbeds 
 and frames receives appropriate attention. Over one hundred ex- 
 cellent illustrations, specially engraved for this work, make every 
 point clear to the reader and add considerably to the artistic ai>- 
 pearance of the book. Cloth, 12mo. 1.50 
 
 Bulbs and Tuberous-Rooted Plants. 
 
 ByC. L.Allen. A complete treatise on the History, Description, 
 Methods of Propagation and full Directions for the successful cul- 
 hne of Bulbs in the garden, Dwelling and Greenhouse. As gener- 
 ally treated, bulbs are an expensive luxury, while, when properly 
 managed, they afford the greatest amount of pleasure at the least 
 cost. The author of this book has for many years made bulb grow- 
 ing a specialty, and is a recognized axithority on their cultivation 
 and management. The illustrations which embellish this work 
 have been drawn from nature, and have been engraved especially 
 for this book. The cultural directions are plainly stated, practical 
 and to the point. Cloth, 12mo. 2.00 
 
 Henderson's Practical Floriculture. 
 
 By Peter Henderson. A guide to the successful propagation and 
 cultivation of florists' plants. The work is not one for florists and 
 gardeners only, but the amateur's wants are constantly kept in 
 mind, and we have a very complete treatise on the cultivation of 
 flowei's under glass, or in the open air, suited to those who grow 
 flowers for pleasure as well as those who make them a matter of 
 trade. Beautifully illustrated. New and enlarged edition. Cloth, 
 12uio. 1.50 
 
 Lon§:*s Ornamental Gardening: for Americans. 
 
 A Treatise on Beautifying Homes, Rural Districts and Cemeteries. 
 A plain and practical work at a nu)derate price, with numerous 
 illustrations and instructions so plain that they may be readily 
 followed. By Elias A. Long, Landscape Architect. illustrated. 
 Cloth, 12mo. 2.09 
 
 ftixe Propa§:ation of Plants. 
 
 By Andrew S. Fuller. Illustrated with numerous engravings. An 
 eminently practical and useful work. Describing the process of 
 hybridizing and crossing species and varieties, and also the many 
 dttferent modes by which cultivated plants may be propagated and 
 multipliea. Cloth, l2mo. IM 
 
STANDARD BOOSJI |^ 
 
 Parsons on the Rose. 
 
 By Samuel B. Parsons. A treatise on the propagation, culture and 
 iiistory of the rose. New and revised edition. In his work upon 
 the rose, Mr. Parsons lias gathered up tlie curious legends concern- 
 ing the tlower, and gives us an idea of the esteem in which it was 
 held in former times. A simple garden classlficatiou has been 
 adopted, and the leading varieties under each class enumerated 
 and briefly described. The chapters on multiplication, cultivation 
 and training are very full, and the work is altogether one of Ihe 
 most complete before the public. Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. 1.00 
 
 Henderson's Handbook of Plants. 
 
 This new edition comprises about fifty per cent, more genera than 
 the former one, and embraces the botanical name, derivation, 
 natural order, etc., together with a short history of tlie different 
 genera, concise instructions for their propagation and culture, and 
 all the leading local or common English names, together witii a 
 comprehensive glossary of Botanical and Technical terms. Plain 
 instructions are also given for the cultivation of the principal veg- 
 etables, fruits and flowers. Cloth, large 8vo. 4.00 
 
 Barry's Fruit Garden. 
 
 By P. Barry. A standard work on Fruit and Frnlt Trees ; the author 
 having had over thirty years' practical experience at the head of 
 one of the largest nurseries in this country. New edition revised 
 tip to date. Invaluable to ail fruit growers. Illustrated. Cloth, 
 12mo. 2.00 
 
 Fulton's Peach Culture. 
 
 Thisis the only practical guide to Peach Culttire on the Delaware 
 Peninsula, and is the best work upon the subject of peach growing 
 for those who would be su<rcessl'ul in that culture in any part of 
 the country. It has been thorouglily revised and a large portion of 
 itrewitten, by Hon. J. Alexander Fulton, the author, bringing it 
 down to date. Cloth, l2mo. 1.50 
 
 Strawberry Culturist. 
 
 By Andrew S. Fuller. Containing the History, Sexuality, Field and 
 Garden Culture of Strawberries, forcing or pot culture, how to 
 grow from seed, hybridizing, and all information necessary to en- 
 able everybody to raise their own strawberries, together with a 
 description of new varieties and a list of the best of the old sorts. 
 Fully illustrated. Flexible cloth, 12uio. .25 
 
 Fuller's Small Fruit Culturist. 
 
 By Andrew S. Fuller. Rewritten, enlarged, and brought fully up to 
 the present time. The book covers the whole ground of proi)agating 
 Small Fruits, their culture, varieties, packing for market, etc. It is 
 very finely and thoroughly illustrated, and makes an admirable 
 companioQ to "The Grape Culturist," by the same well known 
 autuor. i^ 
 
6 STANDARD BOOKS, 
 
 Fuller's Grape Culturist. 
 
 By A. S. Fiiller. This is one of the very best of worfes on the Cul- 
 ture of the Hardy Grapes, with full directions for all departme7its 
 of propagation, culture, etc., with 150 excellent engravings, illus- 
 trating planting, training, grafting, etc. Cloth, 12mo. 1.50 
 
 Quinn's Pear Culture for Profit. 
 
 Teaching How to Raise Pears intelligently, and with the best in- 
 sults, how to find out the character of the soil, the best methods of 
 preparing it, the best varieties to select under existing conditions, 
 the best modes of planting, pruning, fertilizing, grafting, and utili/ 
 ing the ground before the trees come into bearing, and finally a 
 gathering and packing for market. Hlustrated. By P. T. Quinn, 
 practical horticulturist. Cloth, 12mo. 1.00 
 
 Husmann's American Grape Growing: and Wine-Makingf. 
 
 By George Husmann of Talcoa vineyards, Napa, California. New 
 and enlarged edition. With contributions from well know grape- 
 growers, giving a wide range of experience. The author of this 
 book is a recognized authority on the subject. Cloth, 12mo. 1.50 
 
 White's Cranberry Culture. 
 
 Contents :— Natural History.— History of Cultivation.— Choice of 
 Location. — Preparing the Ground. — Planting the "Vines. — Manage- 
 ment of Meadows. — Flooding. — Enemies and Difficulties Overcome. 
 -Picking. — Keeping. — Profit and Loss. — Letters from Practical 
 Growers. — Insects Injurious to the Cranberry. By Joseph J. White, 
 a practical grower. Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. New and revised 
 edition. 1.25 
 
 Fuller's Practical Forestey. 
 
 A Treatise on the Propagation, Planting and Cultivation, with a 
 description and the botanical and proper names of all the indigen- 
 ous trees of the United States, both Evergreen and Deciduous, with 
 Notes on a large number of the most valuable Exotic Species. By 
 Andrew S. Fuller, author of "Grape Culturist," "Small Fruit Cul- 
 turist," etc. 1.50 
 
 Stewart's Irri§:ation for the Farm, Garden and Orchard. 
 
 This work is offered to those American Farmers and other cultiva- 
 tors of the soil who, from painful experience, can readily appre- 
 ciate the losses which result from the scarcity of water at critical 
 periods. By Henry Stewart. Fully illustrated. Cloth, l2mo. 1.50 
 
 Quinn's Money in the Garden. 
 
 By P. T. Quinn, The author gives in a plain, practical style, in- 
 structions on three distinct, although closely connected branches 
 of gardening— the kitchen garden, market garden, and field culture, 
 from successful practical experience tor a term of years. Illustra- 
 ted, Clotb. ISSnoo. IM 
 
STANDARD BOOyS. 7 
 
 Roe's Play and Profit in My Garden. 
 
 By E. P. Roe. The author lakes us to his garden on the rocky hill- 
 sides in the vicinity of West Point, and sliows lis how out of it, 
 after four years' experience, he evoked a proiit of $1,000, and this 
 while carrying on pastoral and literary labor. It is very rarely 
 that so much literary taste and skill are mated to so much agrl 
 cultural experience and good sense. Cloth, 12mo. 1.6' 
 
 The New Onion Culture. 
 
 By T. Greiner. This new work is written by one of our most su< 
 cessful agriculturists, and is full of new, original, and highly valu 
 able matter of material interest to every one who raises onions in 
 the family garden, or by tlie acre for market. By the process liere 
 described a crop of 2000 bushels per acre can be as easily raised as 
 500 or COO bushels in the old way. Paper, 12mo. .50 
 
 The Dairyman's Manual. 
 
 By Henry Stewart, author of "Tlie Shepherd's Manual," "Irriga- 
 tion," etc. A useful and practical work, by a writer who is well 
 known as thoroughly familiar with the subject of which he writes. 
 Cloth, 12mo. 2.0ft 
 
 Allen's American Cattle. 
 
 Their History, Breeding and Management. By Lewis F. Allen. 
 This book will be considered indispensable by every breeder of 
 live stock. The large experience of the author in improving the 
 character of American herds adds to the weight of his observations 
 and has enabled him to produce a work which will at once make 
 good his claims as a standard authority on the subject. New and 
 revised edition. Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. 2.50 
 
 Profits in Poultry. 
 
 Useful and ornamental Breeds and their Profitable Management. 
 This excellent work contains the combined experience of a num- 
 ber of practical men in all departments of poultry raising. It is 
 profusely illustrated and forms a unique and important addition 
 to our poultry literature. Cloth, 12mo. 1.00 
 
 The American Standard of Perfection. 
 
 The recognized standard work on Poultry in this country, adopted 
 by the American Poultry Association. It contains a complete de- 
 scription of all the recognized varieties of fowls, including turkeys, 
 ducks and geese ; gives instructions to judges ; glossary of technical 
 terms and nomenclature. It contains 244 pages, handsomely 
 bound in cloth, embellished with title in gold on front cover. $1.00 
 
 Stoddard's An Bgg Farm. 
 
 By H. H. Stoddard. The management of poultry In large numbers, 
 being a series of articles written for the AMERICAN AGRICULTDB- 
 ISI. lUustrated. Cloth« 12mo. ^ 
 
8 STANDARD BOOKft. 
 
 Stewart's Shepherd's Manual. 
 
 A Valuable Practical Treatise on the Sheep for American farmers 
 and sheep growers. It is so plain that a farmer or a farmer's son 
 who has never kept a slieep, may learn from its pages how to 
 manage a flock successfully, and yet so complete that even the ex- 
 perienced shepherd may gather many suggestions from it. The 
 results of personal experience of some years with the characters 
 of the various modern breeds of sheep, and the sheep raising capa- 
 bilities of many portions of our extensive territory and that of 
 Canada— and the careful study of the diseases to which our sheep 
 are chiefly subject, with tliose by which they may eventually be 
 afflicted through unforseen accidents— as well as the methods of 
 management called for under our circumstances, are carefully 
 described. By Henry Stewart. Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. 1.50 
 
 Wri§:ht's Practical Poultry-Keeper, 
 
 By L. Wright. A complete and standard guide to the management 
 of poultry, for domestic use, the markets or exhibition. It suits at 
 once the plain poulterer, who must make the business pay, and the 
 chicken fancier whose taste is for gay plumage and strange, bright 
 birds. Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. $2.00 
 
 Harris on the Pi§:. 
 
 New Edition. Revised and enlarged by the author. The points of 
 the various English and American breeds are thoroughly discussed, 
 and the gi-eat advantage of using thoroughbred males clearly 
 fehown. The work is equally valuable to the farmer who keeps l)ut 
 few pigs, and to the breeder on an extensive scale. By Joseph 
 Harris. Illustrated. Cloth, 12iii.o. 1.50 
 
 The Farmer's Veterinary Adviser. 
 
 A guide to the Trevention and Treatment of Disease in Domestic 
 Animals. This is one of the best works on this subject, and is es- 
 pecially designed to supply the need o^ the busy American Farm- 
 er, who can rarely avail himself of the advice of a Scientific Veter- 
 inarian. It is brought up to date and treats of the Prevention otf 
 Disease as well as of the Remedies. By Prof. Jas. Law. Clot h. 
 Crown, 8vo. 3.00 
 
 Dadd's American Cattle Doctor. 
 
 By George H. Dadd, M. D., Veterinary I^a-ctitioner. To help every 
 man to be his own cattle-doctor; giving tlie necessary inx^^ormatiorj 
 for preserving the health and curing the diseases of oxen, cows, 
 sheep and swine, with a great variety of original recipes, and val- 
 nable information on farm and dairy management. Cloth, 12mo. i.5t 
 
 tattle Breeding:. 
 
 By "Wm. "Warfield. This work is by common consent the most 
 valuable and pre-eminently practical treatise on cattle-breeding 
 ever published in America, being the actual experience and ob- 
 servance of a practical man. Cloth, l2HiO. 3jQ0 
 
STANDARD B0CS5, V 
 
 Dadd's Amencan Cattle Doctor. 
 
 A complete work on all the Diseases of Cattle, Sheep and Swine, in- 
 cluding every Disease peculiar to America, and embracing all the 
 latest information on the Cattle Plague and Trichina; containing 
 also a guide to symptoms, a table of Weights and Measures, and a 
 list of Valuable Medicines. By George H. D:i<1d, V. S., twenty-five 
 years aleading Veterinary Surgeon in England and the United 
 States, and author of the ''Ajnerican Reformed Horse Book." Cloth, 
 octavo. Illustrated. ^-^ 
 
 Cattle and Their Diseases. 
 
 By A. J. Murray, M. R. C. V. S. Breeding and ^Management of Cat- 
 tle. This is one of the very few works devoted exclusively to 
 cattle diseases, and will be particularly valuable to cattlemen 
 for that reason. It is written in plain, simple language, easily un- 
 derstood by any farmer, while it is learned and technical enough 
 to satisfy any veterinary surgeon. Cloth, 12mo. ii.iX) 
 
 Silos, Ensila§:e, and Sila§:e. 
 
 A practical Treatise on the Ensilage of Fodder Com, containing 
 the most recent and authentic information on this important sutv 
 ject, by Manly Miles, M. D. k\ H. M. S. ^iustrated. Cloth. l2mo. .£>0 
 
 Manures. 
 
 How to Make and How to Use them. By Frank W. Sempers. The 
 author has made a concise, practical handbook containing the lat- 
 est researches in agriculture in all parts of the world. Tlie reports 
 of the agricultural experiment stati<ms have furnished many val- 
 uable suggestions. Both commercial and home-made manures 
 are fully described, and many formulas for special crops and soils 
 are given. l*rice postpaid, paper 50 cents, cloth. l-OO 
 
 Potato Pests. 
 
 No farmer can afford to be without this little book. It gives the 
 most complete account of the Colorado Beetle anywhere to be 
 found, and includes all the latest discoveries as to tlie habits of the 
 insect and the various means for its destruction. It is well illustiar 
 ted, and exhibits in a map the spread of the insect since it ielt its 
 native home. By Brof . C. V. lUley. i'aper. JM 
 
 Your Plants. 
 
 Plain and Practical Directions for the Treatment of Tender and 
 Hardy Plants in the House and in the Garden. By James Sheehan. 
 The work meets the wants of the amateur who grows a few plants 
 in the window, or has a small flower garden. Paper covers. .40 
 
 Pedder's Land-Measurer for Farmers. 
 
 A convenient Pocket Companion, showing at once the contents of 
 any piece of land, when its length and vidth are unknown, up to 
 IriOC feet either way, with vaiious cihsi useful fanu tables. Cloth, 
 
10 SIAKDARD BOOKS, 
 
 Hop Ctilture. 
 
 Plain directions given by ten experienced cultivators. Reyised^ 
 enlarged and edited by A. S. Fuller. Forty engravings. .30 
 
 Wheat Culture. 
 
 How to double the yield and increase the profits. By D. S. Curtiss, 
 Washington, D. C. Importance of the Wheat Crop. Varieties Most 
 Grown in the United States. Examples of Successful Wheat Cul- 
 ture. Illustrated. Paper covers. .60 
 
 Starr's Farm Echoes. 
 
 Uy F. Ratcliford Starr, Echo Farm, Litchfield, Ct. This handsome 
 little book tells how the author turned from a successful business 
 career to agricultural pursuits, and has achieved health, happiness 
 and prosperity upon his broad acres near Litchfield. Cloth, 12iuo. 
 Illustrated. .50 
 
 The American Merino. For Wool or for Mutton. 
 
 A practical and most valuable work on the selection, care, breeding 
 and diseases of the Merino sheep, in all sections of tlie United 
 States. It is a full and exhaustive treatise upon this one breed of 
 sheep. By Stephen Powers. Cloth, 12mo. 1.50 
 
 Cobum's Swine Husbandry. 
 
 Mew, revised and enlarged edition. The Breeding, Rearing, and 
 Management of Swine, and the Prevention and Treatment of tlieir 
 Diseases. It is tlie fullest and freshest compendium relating to 
 Swine Breeding yet offered. By F. D. Coburn. Cloth, 12mo. 1.75 
 
 tobacco Culture: Full Practical Details. 
 
 This useful and valuable work contains full details of every process 
 from the Selection and Propagation of the Seed and Soil to the 
 Harvesting, Curing and Marketing the Crop, with illustrative en- 
 gravings of the operations. The work was prepared by Fourteen 
 Experienced Tobacco Growers, residing in different parts of the 
 country. It also contains notes on the Tobacco Worm, with Ulus- 
 trations. 8vo. .25 
 
 Keeping: One Cow. 
 
 A collection of prize Essays and Selections from a number of other 
 Essays, with editorial notes, suggestions, etc. This book gives the 
 latest information, and in a clear and condensed form, upon the 
 management of a single Milch Cow. Illustrated with full page en- 
 gravings of the most famous dairy cows. Cloth, 12mo. 1.00 
 
 Guenon's Treatise on Milch Cows. 
 
 A treatise on the Bovine Species in General. An entirely new 
 translation of the last edition of this popular and instructive book. 
 By Thomas J. Hand, Secretary of tlie American Jersey Cattle Club. 
 With over 100 iiiustrations, especially engraved for this work, 
 ^loth, l2mo. l-OC 
 
STANDARD BOOKS. H 
 
 Sander's Horse Breeding:. 
 
 Being the general principles of Heredity applied to the Business of 
 Breeding Horses and tne Management of Stallions, Brood Mares 
 and Foals. The book embraces all that the breeder wishes to know 
 in regard to the selection of stock, management of the stallion, 
 brood mare, and foal, and treatment of diseases peculiar to breed- 
 ing animals. By J. H. Sanders. Cloth, 12mo. 2.00 
 
 Herbert's Hints to Horse Keepers. 
 
 Tills is one of the best and most popular works on the horse pre- 
 pared In this country. A complete manual for horsemen, embrac- 
 ing: How to Breed a Horse; How to Buy a Horse; How to Break a 
 Horse ; How to Use a Horse ; How to Feed a Horse ; How to Physic a 
 Horse (Allopathy or Homoeopathy); How to Groom a Horse; How 
 to Drive a Horse; How to Ride a Horse, etc. By the late Henry 
 William Herbert, (Frank Forester). Beautifully Illustrated. Cloth, 
 12mo. 1.75 
 
 Waringfton's Chemistry of the Farm. 
 
 Treating with the utmost clearness and conciseness, and In the 
 most popular manner possible, of the relations of Chemistry to 
 Agriculture, and providing a welcome manual for those who, 
 while not having time to systematically study Chemistry, will 
 gladly have such an idea as this gives them of its relation to oper- 
 ations on the farm. By &, Warington, F. C. S. Cloth, 12mo. 1.00 
 
 Farm Appliances. 
 
 Describing numerous Useful and Labor-Saving appliances, and 
 will be found of great value in every department of Farm work. 
 With nearly 250 Illustrations. Cloth, 12mo. 1.00 
 
 Fences, Gates and Bridgfes. 
 
 A much-needed and valuable work. The descriptions are abundantly 
 illustrated. The book also contains a synopsis of the Fence Laws 
 of the different States. Over 100 engravings. Cloth, 12mo. 1.00 
 
 Farm Conveniences. 
 
 A Manual of what to do, and how to do It. Describing all manner 
 of Homemade Aids to Farm Work. Made up of the best ideas from 
 the experience of many practical men. With over two hundred 
 engravings. 1.50 
 
 Waring's Draining for Profit and Draining for Health. 
 
 This book is a very complete and practial treatise, the directions 
 in which are plain and easily followed. The subject of thorough 
 farm drainage is discussed in all its bearings, and also that more 
 extensive land drainage by which the sanitary condition of any 
 district may be greatly improved, even to the banishment of fever 
 and ague, typhoid and malarial fever. By Geo E. Waring, Jr. 
 Illustrated. Cloth, 12mo. J.50 
 
12 STANDARD BOOKS. 
 
 The Do§:s of Great Britain, America and Other Countries. 
 
 New, enlarged and revised edition. Their Breeding, training and 
 management, in liealtli and disease; comprising all the essential 
 parts of the two standard works on the dog, by "Stonehenge." It 
 describes the Best Game and Hunting Grounds in America. 
 Contains over One Hundred Beautiful Engravings, embracing 
 most noted Dogs in both continents, making, together with Chai> 
 ters by American Writers, the most complete Dog Book over pub- 
 lished. Cloth, 12mo. 2.00 
 
 American Bird Fancier. 
 
 Or how to Breed, Rear and Care for Song and Domestic Birds. This 
 vahiable and important little work for all who are interested in 
 the keeping of Song Birds, has been revised and enlarged, and is 
 row a complete manual upon the subject. All who own valuable 
 birds, or wish to do so, will find the new Fancier indispensable. 
 New, revised and enlarged edition. ^By D. J, Browne and Dr. 
 Fuller Walker. Illustrated, paper. .50 
 
 Gardening: for Young: and Old. 
 
 By Joseph Harris. A work intended to interest farmers' boys in 
 Farm Gardening, which means a better and more profitable form 
 of agriculture. The teachings are given in the familiar manner so 
 well known in the author's "Walks and Talks on the Farm." Illus- 
 trated. Cloth, 12mo. 1.25 
 
 Onions ; How to Raise Them Profitably. 
 
 Being the Practical Details, from Selection of Seed and Preparation 
 of Ground to Harvesting and Marketing the Crop, given very 
 plainly by Seventeen Practical Onion Growers of long experience 
 residing in different parts of the country. No more valuable work 
 ol its size was ever issued. Paper, 8vo. .20 
 
 Tomato Culture. 
 
 By J. W. Day, D. Cummins, and A. I. Root. In three parts. Part 
 First — Tomato Culture in the South. Part Second— Tomato Cul- 
 ture, especially for Canning Factories. Part Third— Plant Growing 
 for Market and High Pressure. Gardening in general. A Practical 
 Book for those who work under either Glass or Cloth as a Protec- 
 tion from Frost. 135 pages, illustrated. Paper, 16mo. .05 
 
 flow to Handle and Educate Vicious Horses. 
 
 By Oscar R. Gleason. Directions for Handling Vicious Horses, 
 Breaking Colts, Teaching Horses Tricks, etc. Ulustrated. Cloth, 
 12mo. ^0 
 
 Hie Family Horse. 
 
 Its stabling, Care and Feeding. By Geo. A. Martin. A Practical 
 Manual, full ot tlie most useful information. Illustrated. Cloth 
 

 
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