T X 715 6941: s.:i^^m 1 LIBRARY OF CONGRESSJ I limp. .5:ix,|»ra"si■• -^->^ ;^ ^^ ^ tx ~->- r3> :)~ ^ j> > 3 3»"3) 3 ^ ~^5»~^^ :> ~3 ^!>T^ :> 3 ~ji~~^ " :> 3 Z3^^^^ -^ ^ 3) ^T> „ "; :> :~^ >:> :> ■^ > ^ ~> >■ :* - >^ :> ^>3> > ^ ^ > 3 » ^^ z^* » »z> ~Z3 ► » :»^ 5 >z> ^^ > I >3 Hi SUGGESTIONS IN Culinary Chemistry. " May good digestion wait on appetite, And health on both." — Macbeth. PRINTED FOR THE FAIR. ^bosto:n^: KOCKWELL & CHURCHILL, PRINTERS, 122 "Washington Street. 18 74. A A^\' ^ Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1874, by E. A. CLARKE, In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. PREFACE The first principle of chemistry is the rule of definite proportions. And the earliest application of chemistry was undoubtedly to the art of cooking food, and this is by no means tlie least important to-day. The first thing, then, in feeding mankind well, is to remember that cook- ing a meal is performing a chemical operation on a practical scale, which ought to be as definitely and accurately performed every time, as the refin- ing of a batch of sugar, or the manufacture of a hundred carboys of acid. The composition of a meal is in the nature of a fine art, and the serious business of eating should be carried on in such a way that, as a French writer well observes, "the soul should feast while the body dines." These two things, then, are to be remembered : that the preparation of food is a chemical operation, to be conducted carefully and exactly, and that there is no chance or luck, only skill, concerned in it; and that the body and soul ought to be fed at the same time in order to the " mens sana in corpore sano." Theee observed and kept in view, good living is simple and easy. It is the object of this pamphlet to supplement some other cookery-books. Our people eat too much dry food, and too little soup and made dishes. They stick to their spits too stoutly, forgetting that it v/as the soup-kettle that so changed the history of the world, when Jacob bought the birthright of Esau for a plate of bean-soup a la Saxe (pottage of lentils) ; and which so nearly subverted the rising power of Israel when the emigrants longed for the flesh-pots of Egypt. Towards the close of this book is a series of what in old times would bo called " diet lists," or bills of fare. There is nothing inflexible about a diet list. You take as a skeleton idea the notion that a full breakfast con- sists of some wholesome beverage, tea, coffee, cider, milk, buttermilk ; of some fruit, fresh vegetable or salad, if it can be got ; of a bit of meat or fish, or a plate of beans, and of bread or porridge, — that is, of something to drink, and of at least three or four things to eat in variety. A lunch should consist of a difTerent drink from the breakfast, avid of at least two dishes in variety ; and a dinner should be also in variety, soups, fish, meat, vegetables, salad, an entree, and a bit of pastry or pudding. Tea, also, should be in variety, and each meal should supplement the other meals of the day, and each day's diet-list should supplement the diet- list of the other days of the week. Thus it is hoped this little pamphlet may serve a purpose of lessening dyspepsia and improving the health and happiness of our people. In describing the soups, the usual names have been given, as it is well, if one has a favorite soup at home, to know what to ask for abroad. SOUPS. Soup Stock. Buy fourteen or fifteen pounds of beef shank. Have it cut into several pieces and the bone cracked. Wash and put OD to boil in a deep porcelain kettle, with enough cold water to cover it. When it comes to a boil, take off the scum and set the kettle where the soup will just simmer during the day. At night set it where it will be cold, and in the morn- ing skim off all the fat. Treat in the same way without add- ing water, nnless it has evaporated to a great degree, on the second and third days. At the end of that time strain the soup through a fine sieve into a glazed stone pot, which has been carefully scalded, and set it away to cool. This will make stock of the consistency of calf 's-foot jelly when cold. Do not boil vegetables with the stock while making, as they cause it to sour quickly. This quantity of beef will make nearly a gallon of stock. The w^ater in which fresh meat or poultry is boiled, should be saved for soups and broths, and the bones of roast meat, pieces of beef-steak or cold meats, should never be thrown away without boiling, as they make very nice soups or stews. These may be seasoned with salt and pepper and various kinds of vegetables. Cooked meats, however, will not make stock. The carcasses of roast or boiled poultry, seasoned with salt, pepper, onion, and a little . barley or rice, make a very rich soup. Soups are classified by professed cooks as soups (pi'op- er), potages, purees, and bisques. SOUPS. A soup is made of stock melted, and with or without the addition of other ingredients. The natural color of the stock is not changed. Consomme is stock alone, seasoned with salt and pepper or other spices. Julienne is stock seasoned to suit, with the addition of carrots, parsnips, turnips, and a suspicion of onion. These vegetables should be cut into strips two inches long and one-fourth of an inch wide and thick. The onion should be shredded fine. They should be cut into cold water an hour before using to make them crisp. If the vegetables are old, steam until quite soft, and put into the stock half an hour before serving. A. la Jardiniere is made like Julienne, except that whereas in the Julienne the vegetables are all roots, in the a la Jar- diniere they are all such as grow above ground, green peas, shell or string beans, cabbage, celery tops, and the like. Maccaroni, Vermicelli, or Star Soup is made by adding to the soup stock, maccaroni, vermicelli, or the pattern mac- caroni, which comes in small boxes, and in wafers of differ- ent shapes. Season to suit. Noedel Soup is also a stock soup, having in it noedels made of flour, eggs and butter, made into a stiff paste, cut either in balls or disks of an inch in diameter, or cut into ribbons about one-quarter of an inch wide and one-eighth of an inch thick, cooked in the stock. To make Ox-tall Soup, you separate two or three tails at the joints, put on to boil in cold water, enough to fully cover them, and, after boiling a short time, season with whole onion, carrot, a few cloves, salt and pepper. Boil two or three hours, then remove the vegetables and bones from the soup and serve. Soup stock added to the liquor an hour before taking from the iire will make a much richer soup. "White stock is made with veal instead of beef, and in the same way. All the above soups may be made from white stock, and noedel soup is much nicer made with white stock. ^ la Yienne is made from white stock, with star macca- roni and green vegetables, such as are used in the a la Jar- diniere. Plain Veal Soup, or Broth, is best made from a knuckle of veal. Lay it in sufficient cold water to thoroughly cover it. Let it boil slowly for an hour and a half, carefully re- moving all the scum ; then add a small cup of rice, salt, pep- per, and an onion. Boil two and a half hours. Kemove the meat, and the broth will be ready to serve. For Mutton Broth, it is best to buy the neck of mutton. Put it on to boil in cold water, and skim carefully. After cooking for an hour and a half, add a small cup of rice, pep- per, salt, and a small onion. Boil two hours. Remove the meat and serve. POTAGES. These are soups thickened with flour or meal, — that of barley, wheat, rice or beans being emploj^ed. A. la Heine is soup stock, seasoned, and thickened with wheat flour. A la Palestine is stock seasoned, and thickened with bean meal. A la Indienne is stock seasoned and thickened with rice flour. 8 Ncibob is thickened with rice flonr, flavored or seasoned with curry powder. Mulligatawny is stock thickened with browned flour and flavored with curry powder. Barley Souj) is thickened either with barley flour or with whole barley boiled to a paste before putting into the stock. All these thickenings are made by allowing two or three tablespoonsfuls of the flour or meal to a quart of stock, and mixing with water to a smooth paste before stirring into the stock. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Some like ground cloves or allspice as flavoring; and in using bean flour a t'mspoonful of vinegar or the juice of a small lemon is very good. A small quantity of celery seed, or essence of celery, may be used in seasoning most of the above soups. • PUEEES. These are Bean, Pea, Black Bean or Tomato Soups. Pea or Bean Soujps. Wash and soak over night one pint of peas or beans. In the morning turn ofi* the water and put on to cook, in nearly four quarts of cold water, a half-pound of lean salt pork, a little pepper, and salt, if the pork does not salt it enough. A small onion and a little celery improve it. Boil slowly eight hours, being careful that it does not burn. When done, it should be thin enough to pour. If it becomes too thick in boiling, add hot water. When cooked it is smooth and mealy. If not cooked enough, after standing a few minutes the top will look watery. Strain the soup through a sieve, and serve. Before sending to the table, toast sev- eral slices of bread of an even brown, cut into pieces an inch square, and put into the tureen. Green Pea Bowp. Boil marrowfat peas in a little more than enough water to cover them; cook until the skin breaks and the peas are entirely softened. Strain through a sieve, and season with salt, pepper and butter. If the peas are old, and a long time is required to boil them, set the vessel in which they are cooking into another of boihng water, and you will avoid burning them. Black Bean, or Bowp a la Baxe. Make in the same way as Pea or Bean Soup, using if you choose, veal knuckles instead of pork. Potato BoujJ. Twelve potatoes boiled in one quart of milk. When done, mash finely. Add one onion, salt and pepper, and simmer one hour. Before serving, strain into it an egg. Tomato improves it. Should it be too thick, add a little water and let it boil up. Vegetable Boup. Two turnips, two carrots, four potatoes, one large onion, one parsnip, a few pieces of celery or a little celery seed. Cut or chop all very fine. Put them with a spoonful of rice into three quarts of water, and boil three hours. Then sii-ain, and replace over the fire. Add a piece of butter the size of an egg, and a little brown flour. Let it boil up, and then serve. Tomato may be added at choice. 10 Tomato Soiij)- Let the bones or meat boil in two quarts of water three or four hours ; then add two dozeu large tomatoes, and boil one hour. Season with salt, pepper, onion and turnips. Strain and serve. FISH SOUPS, STEWS, OR CHOWDERS. Cod Soup. Cut the fish into pieces, and put into cold water. Season with salt aud pepper. Boil five minutes, and then add one pint of nice milk, a large piece of butter, and a little thick- ening. In a few moments remove from the fire. Separate the flakes from the bones, and it is ready to serve. Crack- ers, dipped in milk or water, and placed in the tureen before sending to the table, are an improvement. Oyster Soup. Strain the liquor from one quart of water, and set it on the fire. If there is not a great deal of liquor add one pint of water. Boil for a few minutes ; then pour in a pint of rich milk. When it again boils stir in two spoonfuls of butter rubbed in two or three of flour. Then add the oysters, salt, and pepper. Boil two or three minutes, and serve. Clam Soupt. Make in the same w^ay as oyster soup, unless the clams are very large, when cut off" the heads and chop them and the rims before putting in. Allow the clams to cook a little longer than oysters. Lobster Soup. Cut into small pieces two medium-sized lobsters ; add one pint of water, butter, size of an g^^^^, salt and pepper, and 11 thicken with a tablespoonfal of flour. Boil fifteen minutes, and add a pint of milk just before taking the soup from the fire. Scallop Stew. Boil a quart of scallops in their own liquor five minutes. Then add a quart of milk, and after this has cooked three or four minutes, thicken with a little flour rubbed into butter. Add salt and pepper. Allow it to boil up once, after adding thickening, and it is then ready for use. Oyster Stew. Drain all the liquor from the oysters. If there is not much liquor add a little water. Let it come to a boil, and skim carefully. Turn in the milk, allowing one pint of milk to a pint of oysters. Add butter, salt, and pepper. Boil once or twice, and then add the oysters. Cook two minutes, and serve. Oyster stew is also very nice, made the same as above, with the exception of the milk, which must be boiled in a pan, set in water, and served separately, and which may be added to the stew or not, at pleasure. Qualiaug Soup or Stew. Quahaugs, or round clams, may be used and cooked in the same way as oysters, and by many people would be pre- ferred to the large clams. Clam Chowder. Take two quarts of clams, and, if they are of good size, separate the heads and rims from the bodies, and chop flue,- Cut into cold water ten or a dozen good-sized potatoes, 12 pared and sliced very thin, and three medinm-sized onions. Yry in the kettle in which you mean to make the chowder, until all the fat is extracted, one half pound of salt pork, cut into small squares, being careful not to burn. Then put in alternate layers of onions, potatoes, bodies of the clams, and small pieces of cold-water crackers, salt, and pepper. Cover with what clam-water you have, and if that is not sufficient, add boiUng water. AVhen the vegetables are nearly done, add the heads and rims. Just before serving, add one quart of milk, or more, if you prefer. If the clams are small do not separate the heads and rims, but add them to the chowder when it is nearly done. Fish CJioivder. Make in the same way as clam chowder, using five or six pounds of cod or haddock to the same quantity of other in- gredients given in the above receipt. Bisques are extremely difficult to make. They are similar in appearance to purees, and are made by entirely cooking up clams, oysters, or lobsters. Most Americans would pre- fer chowder or stews made of these fish. MEATS AND ENTREES. Minced Veal. Cut the veal into very small bits, and put them into mutton or veal broth with a little mace, white pepper, salt, grated lemon-peel, and a tablespoonful of catsup. Take out some of the gravy when nearly done, thicken with fiour 13 and a little butter; boil up with the rest of the gravy, and pour over the meat. Garnish with small points of toasted bread, parsley, and sliced lemon. The addition of a little of the juice of the lemon to the gravy gives zest. Ham or Bacon Bashers. Soak in hot water for a quarter of an hour. "Wipe per- fectly dry, and broil quickly. A few minutes is quite suf- ficient. The slices should be cut one quarter of an inch in thickness. Meat Calces. Any cold meat or poultry minced fine with a little ham or bacon. Season with salt and pepper, and make into small cakes one-half an inch thick. Fry brown, and serve with good gravy. Garnish with hard-boiled eggs sliced, bits of beets, and points of carrot. Devilled Ham. The small bits dropped in the carvings of boiled ham, with what meat may be got from off the bone, may be chopped very fine and made useful by mixing a cupful of the ham with a very small piece of onion, also chopped fine, quarter of a spoonful of mixed mustard, a little black pepper, some powdered sage, or savory, and water enough to mix thoroughly. Veal Loaf. Three pounds of raw veal chopped fine, one-fourth pound raw salt pork chopped, one cup pounded crackers, two eggs, two teaspoonfuls of pepper, three of salt, one large spoonful of sage. Mix thoroughly; press in a dish and place on a tin sheet to bake. Beat one e^g and pour over the loaf; 14 put bits of butter on top, and sift over it a little cracker. Baste while baking. Bake three liours; and, when cold, cut into thin slices and serve for tea or breakfast. Breast of Turlcey. The least desirable parts of a turkey are the breast and wings. Cut off all the white meat, chop fine, wet with a little warm water and season with salt, pepper, and butter, and place on toasted bread. Sandwiches. Chop the ham or tongue very fine. Mix with a little warm water sufficient to spread it easily on slices of buttered bread cut very thin; season with mustard and a little sweet oil. Veal Croquettes. Chop very fine two pounds of cold veal, and mix it with two eggs and a quarter of a cup of water. Season with salt, pepper, and butter. Mix thoroughly, and roll into balls. Dip the croquettes into beaten e^g, and fry in boiling lard a light brown. PicJded Oysters. Scald and skim the liquor; put in the oysters and let them come to a boil. Take them from the boiling liquor, and throw them into ice-water. Put into the hot liquor whole 2Depperc<3rns, whole allspice, blades of mace, and a few cloves, and let it boil up once. To one quart of the liquor add one pint of vinegar. Drain the oysters from the water, pour the liquor over them, and in twenty-four hours they are ready for use. 15 Oyster Patties. Make a shell as for tarts, only larger. Stew a pint of oysters in their own liquor three minutes. Dredge in a little flour. Season with salt, pepper, and a large spoonful of butter; fill the shells with this and place over them covers of paste the size of the tarts baked on tins. Serve hot. Cliicken Patties. Make a shell as for tarts only larger. Cut the boiled chicken into very small pieces, and with the water in which it was boiled make a gravy, thickened with flour, and seasoned with salt, pepper, and butter. Place the chicken in this gravy, and boil five minutes. It is then ready to put into the tarts and serve. Baked Calfs Liver. Sprinkle the botton of the joan in which the liver is to be baked, with one-half teaspoonful each of pepper, cloves and salt. Lard the liver, lay it in the pan, and pour ,round it cold water; then sprinkle over the top with the same spices used in the pan. Put in the oven, and, as it bakes, dredge with flour, and baste with butter. Bake for an hour and a half; make a gravy from what remains in the pan, and pour over the liver. Beef^s Heart. Wash and clean the heart, and fill the large cavity with a stuffing made of bread, wet with an egg^ and seasoned with salt, pepper, butter and savory or sweet marjoram. Place the heart on its point in a tightly-covered pot, and just cover with cold water. Boil until nearly done, when take it from the kettle and place in the oven. Dredge flour on it, and 16 baste with butter until done, or lay slices of salt pork over the heart to finish cooking. The water in which it was boiled thickened with flour will make a very nice gravy, and will need no seasoning, as the stuffing which boils out from the heart will season it sufficiently. If you have any heart left, it Avill make very nice mince-meat, mixed with potatoes, and seasoned with the gravy. Lamlfs Hearts. "Wash and clean a dozen of lamb's hearts, and fill the cav- ities with a stuffing, made as for beef's heart. Set on their points in a kettle, and just cover with water. Stew until done, when serve with a gravy made of the water in which the hearts were boiled, thickened with flour, and seasoned with salt, pepper and butter. Pour over the hearts and serve. Fricaseed Veal. Buy a neck of veal, and put into a kettle with just suf- ficient cold- water to cook it, a handful of salt, and a half- pound of salt pork. When the veal is done, take from the kettle and cut into long strips. Make a gravy of the water remaining in the kettle, thickened with flour, and seasoned with pepper and butter. Place the veal in this, and cook five minutes, when it is ready for the table. Steamed Beef. Buy lower part of the round of beef. Place on skewers in a kettle just above the water necessary to cook it; put into the beef a handful of salt; steam several hours until done. Take out the meat; make agravy of the water in the kettle, thickened with flour, and seasoned with tomato, slices of carrots, a little onion, salt, pepper and butter. When the 17 carrots and tomatoes are cooked, place the beef in the gravy, and boil for ten oi' fifteen minutes, when send to the table, serving- tlie meat in the gravy. Many people might prefer a little ground clove added to the seasoning. Mutton, Veal, or Beef on Toast. If 3'on have ^\^y small pieces of mutton, veal or beef left, either roasted or boiled, a very nice breakfast dish is to chop the \)'\q(:qh fine, wet with warm water, season with salt, pep- per and butter, and boil fifteen minutes; dish on slices of nicely browned toast. If you use veal, it should be gar- nished with thin slices of lemon. Sausages. I do not mean to give any receipt for cooking sausages, but simply to mention what a German cook recommended to me as a great addition to fried sausages, and that is, au onion cut fine and cooked in the pan with the sausages. Calfs Liver. Cut into slices half an inch thick, and broil over clear coals; season with'butter, salt and pepper. Curried Veal. Make as directed for fricassee veal, and add to the gravy, as a fiu'ther seasoning, a teaspoonful or less of Indian curry; gai-nish with boiled rice, pressed into cup shape. Chicken and mutton can be cui'ried in the same manner. Stewed Kidneys. Get nice fresh kidneys, either beef or lamb; cut into small pieces, and scald two or three times with boiling water; stew 18 in a close kettle half an hour or less, when make a gravy of tlie watei' in which the kidneys were boiled; thicken with flour,- and season with salt, pepper and butter, and pour over the kidneys. Broiled Kidneys. Either beef or lamb kidneys are veiy nice broiled. Slice them through lengthwise with a thin knife, making two or three slices; scald them two or three times Avith boiling water; diy and broil over a clear fire until cooked. Season with salt, pepper, and butter. Blazed Veniscn. Lay the steaks of venison in a blazer, with a little water, salt, peppei", bntter, and a large spoonful of currant jelly. Cover tightly and simmer until done. Serve with currant Potted Pigeons. Clean and stuff the pigeons with a dressing made as for turkey. Sew them up and truss. Put them in a kettle with water enough to cover them and a pound of i)ork, and cook from two to three houis. Serve with gi'avy made of the liquor in which they were boiled, thickened with flour, and seasoned with pepper, salt, and cloves. Blazed Oysters. Lay the oysters in their liqu(gs. Add a pint or more of ci-eam. This will keep some time if bottled and corked tightly. Add vinegar to your taste, when you use the di'essing. Maifonaise Dressing. Separate the yolk of one ^•'^•g from the white. Mix one- half teasjjoonful of English mustard, yolk of Q^^^., and a saltspoonful of salt together, and add six tablespoonfuls of Lucca oil, little by little, mixing to a smooth paste; then add 23 three tablespoonfnls of vinegar, and continue stirring. The color, when finished, should be of a uniform even bright yellow. A few grains cayenne, well stirred in, will better it for gentlemen's taste. Welsh Rarehit. One pound of cheese cut in small bits, a small piece of butter, very little salt, pepper, one beaten Q^g. Stir into the i^gg^ a large teasi)oonful of mixed mustard, and a tablespoon- ful of bi-andy. Melt the cheese and butter in a ])an, stirring- it while melting. When thoroughly melted, add the ^^gg, give it one stir, and pour over hot toast. Be sure the dish you put it in is very hot. Potato Salad. Six cold, boiled potatoes, cut thin, and one small onion, shredded fine. Make a dressing of three tablespoonfnls of sweet oil, two table spoonfuls of vinegar, one saltspoonful of salt, one saltspoonful of coarse black pepper. Mix thoroughly, and pour over the potatoes. Vegetable Salad. Take six cold boiled potatoes, a small beet, a small carrot, a small parsnip, a small raw onion, and a little raw cabbage, choj'ped fine. Slice the vegetables very thin and pour over them the dressing used for potato salad. The vegetables may be cooked purposely for the salad, or it is a very eco- nomical way to use up vegetables that may be left from a previous dinner. Chiclen Salad. Boil chicken tender, cut off the white meat, and chop coarse. Cut off the white part of celery and chop in the 24 Slime manner. Mix well together, and stir in part of dress- ing given in receipt. Shape the salad in a flat dish, and pour over the rest of the dressing. Add, if you please, hard- boiled eggs, and garnish with celery-tops. Lohster Salad. Lobster Salad is made the same as chicken, using lettuce instead of celery. Dressed Celery. Chop the celery into small bits, and pour over it a dressing made as directed in the second receipt for salad dressing, or use Mayonaise dressing. Water cresses or lettuce are vei-y nice dressed as for celeiy. Cole Slaw. Cut cabbage as fine as possible. Mix together one table- spoonful of flour beaten with one egg, one-half cupful of vineo-ar, and a little salt. Place on the fii-e and boil. When cold, pour over the cabbage. Salmon Salad. If yon have boiled salmon left from a dinner, a very nice salad may be made of it by pouring over it a little hot vinegar, seasoned with salt and whole pepper, and letting it stand a da}^ or two. When ready for use, remove from the vinegar, and lay in a platter. Pour over it a dressing with the small leaves of lettuce chopped up in it, and serve. 25 SAUCES. Bread Sauce. Haifa pint of grated bread-crumbs, one pint of milk, and one whole onion. Boil this until the sauce is smooth, then take ont the onion and stir in two spoonfuls of butter, salt and pepper. Boil up once, and serve. This is very nice for grouse, partridge, or quail. Butter Sauce, Into one pint of boiling watei- stir three spoonfuls of flour wet with milk or water, and a little salt. Let it come to a boil, and when i-eady to serve add one-half cup or more of butter. Hollaiidaise Sauce. Chop two hard-boiled eggs, and add to the butter sauce. Calmer Sauce. Stir Ave spoonfuls of capers into a hirge pint of butter sauce. Anchovy Sauce. Add to a pint of butter sauce a sufficient essence of anchovy to flavor it. Tartare Sauce. Make a Mayonaise dressing, and mix with it finely chopped pickles or capers. Oyster Sauce. Boil for a few minutes the liquor of a quart of oysters. Add a little water, if there is not much oyster liquor. Skim 4 26 carefully, and add a cup of milk. When it again boils stir in a large piece of butter rubbed into two large spoonfuls of flour, salt, pepper and the oysters. Boil tAVO or three min- utes, and serve. Mint Sauce. Take the fresh green leaves of mint, and mince very fine. To two tablespoonfuls of mint add two teaspoonfuls of sugar and four tablesj^oonfuls of good vinegar. Serve imme- diately. Sauce for Wild Game. One wine-glass of currant jelly and two wine-glasses of port wine melted together; add a very little cayenne pepper and one half teaspoonful of salt. Pour the drippings of the roast over this. Put in the gravy boat a slice of lemon be- fore you put this in. Essence of Celery. Soak for a fortnight one half onnce of the seeds of celery in a quarter of a pint of nice brandy. A few drops will flavor a pint of soup equal to a head of celery. Gravy for Stews artd Hashes. One large onion, some whole pepper, a piece of bread toasted brown (not burned), and a dessert-spoonful of wal- nut catsup boiled in one pint of soup stock. A nice Brown Gravy. Three sliced onions fried brown in butter; a large, thin slice of bread toasted very brown (but not burned in the least). Stew these with auy pieces of meat, bone, etc., and some herbs, with water according to judgment, and stew until a thick gravy is produced. 27 Very nice gravies may be made by using clear beef or white stock, thickened with flour and seasoned with salt, pepioer, butter, and any herbs or roots that you desire. VEGETABLES. Broiled Tomatoes. Cut medium-sized tomatoes in two, but do not skin. Lay on a gridiron and broil for five minutes. Lay them, when done, on a platter, and add salt, pepper and butter to each one. JEscaloj)ed Tomato. Use fresh tomatoes, if you have them; if not, the canned fruit. Put in a deep dish a layer of tomatoes, then a layer of stale bread-crumbs broken quite small, a little salt, pep- per, butter, and a shred or two of onion. Fill the dish in this way, finishing oflP the top with a layer of crumbs. One very small-sized onion to a quart can of tomatoes is suffi- cient. Boiled rice used instead of bread-crumbs makes a much more delicate dish, still using, however, salt, pepper, butter and onion. Broiled Potatoes. Cut cold potatoes a quarter of an inch thich; broil on a gridiron and season with salt, pepper and butter, and add, if you like, a little chopped parsley. Fr leasee of Potatoes. Cut cold potatoes into enough milk to cover; then add salt and pepper, and stew until they break into small pieces. When ready to serve, add a little butter. 28 Broivned Potatoes. If you have mashed potato left from the day before, it is very nice browned in the oven. Press the potato in cups to make them of a nice shape, and turn out on a buttered tin sheet. Smooth with a knife dipped in milk, and put in the oven to brown. Potatoes in Cream. Before new potatoes become plentiful, a very nice dish may be made by using the old potatoes (particularly small ones), paring them to a small size, boiling in water for fif- teen minutes with a teaspoonful of salt, then allowing them to diain and steam for ten minutes more. Then cover with nice cream, add more salt if needed, and cook for five minutes longer, or until they are thoroughly heated through. Fried Potatoes. Cut cold potatoes quite thin, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and fry of a nice brown in a little hot fat, adding a few shreds of onion if agreeable to the taste. To use up Gold Potatoes. The cold potatoes of the previous day may be used by dipping in ^%% and then in crumbs, frying in plenty of hot fat till nicely browned; then drained, sprinkled with salt and served. Potato Snow. Take nice white potatoes, put them on in cold water, and when they begin to break open, strain and put them in a clean pan before the fire until they fall in pieces. Kub through a sieve into the dish they are to be served in, being careful not to disturb them with a spoon. 29 Fried Potatoes. Take nice, smooth potatoes, wash clean, but do not pare, except on the top, sides, and bottom to make them of an even shape; cut lengthwise two or three times, and cut these slices again into strips the length of the potato and nearly half an inch in width and thickness. Have them as near as possible of the same size. Put into very cold water for several hours, and, when ready to use put in a colander to drain. Have ready boiling fat in a deep kettle, and drop into it the potatoes, turning them over a few times until evenly browned. Then take them from the kettle with a skimmer, lay on a clean napkin in a colander until the fat is thoroughly absorbed, when put into a dish ready to serve. Sprinkle with salt, after they are cooked. Boiled Rice. Boil a cupful in three large pints of water with a table- spoonful of salt. Do not stir if you wish the kernels whole. It is less trouble, and needs less care to cook in a kettle set in boiling water. Cook three hours. If used as a vegetable, press into cup-shape, and cither serve in a platter by itself or garnish the dish in which the mqat is laid. Corn Oysters. Grate six ears of young sweet-corn. Mix with the corn four eggs and two tablespoonfuls of flour beaten together, and a teaspoonful of salt. Fry like oysters, dropping it in the hot fat by spoonfuls, the size of an oyster. Fried or Broiled Parsnips. Cook boiled parsnips as directed for fried or broiled potatoes. 30 Fried Bananas. Take off the sMn and cut lengthwise in two or three slices; fry of an even brown on a griddle rubbed over with nice sweet butter, and serve hot. Fai'snij) Fritters. To one pint of mashed parsnips add three eggs, one tea- spoonful butter, pepper, and salt, and sufficient flour to hold the mixture together. Make into little flat cakes, and fry in butter. BREAKFAST AND TEA DISHES. Indian Batter Calces. One quart of bolted Indian meal, one teacup of flour, one quart of milk, one teaspoonful of salt, four spoonfuls of good yeast and three eggs. Put the j^east and salt into the milk when quite warm, add the eggs, then stir in the flour and meal. Let it rise eight or ten hours, and if it sours add (Mie teaspoonful of soda. Cook like griddle cakes, and butter them while hot. Indian Griddle Calces. One quart of milk or water to one pint of Indian meal, three spoonfuls of flour, three eggs, and a little salt. Cook on a buttered griddle. Indian Calce. One cup of Indian meal (not scalded), one cup of flour, one-half cup of sugar, one teaspoonful of cream tartar, one- half teaspoonful of soda. Mix with cold water and bake in quick oven. 31 Indian Cake. One pint of sour milk, one cup of Indian meal, two cups of flour, one Qgg, a little sugar, one teaspoonful of salt, one of soda; mix thoroughly and bake from twenty-five to thir- ty-five minutes. Brown Bread. Three cups of Indian meal, two cups of rye, one cup of flour, one cup of molasses, five cups of lukewarm water, three teaspoonfuls of saleratus dissolved in the water. Turn the water into the molasses, add other ingredients, and bake four hours in a covered vessel; set in a tin with an inch of water in it. Pone. One pint of milk, one pint of Indian meal scalded, one-half pint of flour, three eggs, two teaspoonfuls of sugar, two tea- spoonfuls of cream tartar, one of soda, a little salt. Beat for five minutes and bake. Western Corn Bread. Three cupfuls of flour, four cupfuls of corn-meal, two- thirds cupful of molasses, one ^g,g, one quart of sour milk, a little soda and salt. Steam three hours and then bake half an hour. Connecticut Corn Bread. Wet Indian meal with hoiling hot water enough to make a stifl" batter, add a little salt, spread smoothly over a pan half an inch thick, and bake in a hot oven. Baste with cream, if you have it, after it has been in the oven fifteen minutes. Bije Drop Cakes. One pint of vyQ meal, one pint of flour, two eggs, one tublespoonful of butter, one of sugar, one teaspoonful of 32 soda, two of cream tartar, milk enough to make a stiff bat- ter. Bake in earthen cu^ds. Hye Dro]) Cakes. Two cups of rye, one egg, one cnp of flour, one tea- spoonful of saleratus, two of cream tartar, small bit of bntter. Mix with milk or water, as thick as for cake. Bake in cups. Rye Droj) Cakes. One ]3int of rye, one pint of flonr, one pint of sour milk, one heaping teaspoonful of soda, stirred into the milk, one-fourth cup of molasses. Rye Muffins. Two cups of flour, two of rye meal, one cup of yeast, one tablespoonful of sugar, one teaspoonful of salt. Mix Avith milk, pretty stiff*, and rise over night. In the morning add an Qg,^ and one teaspoonful of soda. Tliird Bread. One piut of rye meal, one of Indian meal, one of wheat flour, one-half cup of yeast. Mix with warm water into a stiff" dough, and set to rise eight hours. Bake in loaves or biscuit, but before mouldiug for the pans dip the hands in cold water. Bake forty minntes. Oraham Muffins. Three pints of Graham flour, one of white flour, one-half cup of yeast, one tablespoonful of brown sugar, one-half tea- spoonful of soda, a little salt, warm water enough to make a stiff" batter. Mix at night, and bake in the morning, in rings for breakfast. 33 Graham Drop Cal-es. Make the same as for rye drop cakes. Oraliam Rolls. Two coffee cnps of sour milk; stir into it one teaspoon- ful of saleratus, one of salt, half a cup of sugar, two eggs, one cup of flour, and Graham flour enough to make a stiff batter. Bake in I'oll-pans, twenty-five to thirty minutes. Graham Bread. Two quarts of Graham flour (not sifted), one of wheat flour, half a cup of yeast, one spoonful of salt, half a cup of molasses, and warm water enough to make a stiff batter; knead thoroughly; rise in a warm place four hours. If you rise it over night, set in a cool place, as it sours very quickly. When risen sufSciently, mix with it a teaspoonful of saler- atus dissolved in warm water, and flour enough to shape into loaves. Put it in the pans and let it rise for half an hour; bake slowly an hour and a quarter. Yeast. One cup of flour, five potatoes, one teaspoonful of salt, one of sugar; pour over them boiling water; when cool add one-half cup of yeast; let it rise, and then bottle. IIoiJ Yeast. Boil and mash four large potatoes; dissolve two coffee- cups of flour and the potatoes in cold water; then pour in boiling water, and mix well. Put a handful of hops into a quart of boiling w^ater; let it stand half an hour, then strain into the potato and flour, and mix thoroughly. When luke- warm, put in one cup of white sugar, two table spoonfuls of salt, and a coffee-cupful of yeast. Let it rise over night. 34 Yeast Bread. Make a bole in the middle of four quarts of sifted flour, into which one spoonful of lard has been well rubbed; pour into this one eup yeast, one spoonful of salt, and one of sugar, if you like. Then mix one pint of cold milk or water with one pint of boiling water, and pour it on to the flour; knead thoroughly, and rise over night. In the morning knead again, make into loaves, rise one hour, and then put in the oven to bake for fifty minutes. If you wish biscuits in the morning, take part of the dough, mould into small cakes, put in a shallow pan, rise twenty-five minutes, and bake in a quick oven. Should you desire to have biscuits on the suc- ceeding morning without the trouble of mixing fresh bread, the dough already made will keep very nicely by being put away in an earthen dish in a cool place where it will rise but little. 3l2(ffins. Two eggs, one-half cup of sugar, a pint of milk, butter size of an egg, one-half cent's worth of yeast, flour enough to make it quite stifl"; rise over night; in the moi'uing fill the rings, and put in a warm place to rise before baking. Mi/ffins. One-half pint of lukewarm milk, one-half pint of water, one egg, a teaspoonful of yeast, and a little sugar; mix with flour to the consistency of pound cake, and rise over night. 3fufins. One quart of milk, one egg, piece of butter as large as an Qgg, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, one-half cup of j^east. Mix with floui", thi(;k enough to separate a little as you pour from the spoon; rise over night, and, just before baking, add one teaspoonful of soda. 35 Muffins. Three ciipfiils of flour, one-half cupful of butter, one and one-half cupfuls of milk, one tablespoouful of sugar, two eggs, two teaspoonfuls of cream tartar, one of soda. Parher House Rolls. Two quarts of flour, piece of butter size of an q^^ rubbed into the flour, one cup of fresh yeast, one tablespoouful of sugar, one pint of cold boiled milk, and a little salt. Let it rise over night. In the morning knead and roll for flfteen minutes. Let it rise until two hours before baking; knead again, roll thin and cut out round, butter one-half, and double over; set in the pans and allow room to rise. Tea Cctke. One quart of flour, one pint of milk, two small table- spoonfuls of white sugar, two eggs, a piece of butter, one heaping teaspoonful of cream tartar, one even spoonful of soda and a little salt. Waffles. Four eggs, one quart of milk, one-quarter of pound of butter, a little salt, flour enough to* make a batter; heat irons and bake quickly. Waffles. Two quarts of flour, two eggs, piece of butter size of an e^g, a little salt, four teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, sweet milk enough to make a light batter. Cream Tartar Biscuit. 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