^^■^■■H IF 1758 . F53 I Copy 2 : lMmtM ^ITBA and — *•*- Glass FlT5% Buok S3 O^V^aT. THE SPANISH WEST INDIES. CUBA AND PORTO RICO: GEOGRAPHICAL, POLITICAL, AND INDUSTRIAL. CUBA: FROM THE SPANISH OF DON J. M. DE LA TORRE. PORTO RICO: BY J. T. O'NEIL, ESQ. EDITED BY RICHARD S. FI8HER, M.D., AfJTHOI "i" " PROGRESS OF TMK UJI1TBU R1TB;" STATXBTIi a I. BMIOB "I* " OOLTOltfi ATLAfl OF Till- WnU.K," KI'., II'. tilustvatcu bi? a XrUi mm accurate itiap. NEW YORK: J, II . C O LTON, BTo. ITS W i M.i \ m BT B I r.T. »s : TBUBHBB ami cm., LI PATIRN08TZB ROW. 18G1. Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1855, by J. II. COLTON AND COMPANY, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern District of New Tork. 19 DAVIES & ROBERTS, STEREOTYPERS, .. - RUSSELL, PRINTER 201 William Street, N. Y. 79 John Street, N. Y. /-c££/33 r^scj^ ADVERTISEMENT This volume contains two separate memoirs on the Spanish West Indies : each is also distinct as regards authorship. The " Memoir on Cuba," composing the first part of the volume, is a translation from the Spanish* of Don Jose Maria de la Torre, of Havana. It embraces a complete review of the physical geography and the political, social, and industrial condition of one of the fairest islands of the world, and ono to which public attention has of late years been significantly directed. The " Memoir on Porto Rico" has been compiled by Don J. T. O'Neil, a native of San Juan, and at present a resident of New York city. Though not so extensive in design as that on Cuba, it will be found to be sufficiently comprehensive for all practical purposes. The editor has made no alterations in the original text, further than required in the adjustment of idiomatic peculi- arities. Where necessary, his remarks are made in the foot notes ; and he has added largely to the statistical tables. In issuing this work, the sole object of the publishers has been to disseminate information. * Compendio de Geografia, fisica, politico,, estadistica y comparada de la Ma de Cuba, por Don Jose Maria de la Torre. Habana: 1854. *f** CONTENTS PART I. CUBA: PHYSICAL, POLITICAL, AND INDUSTRIAL. Physical Geography — Position, Figure, Boundaries, Neighboring Lands, Advant- ages and Disadvantages, Extent, Surface or Area, Coasts, Gulfs, Peninsulas, Capes, Islands, etc., Straits and Channels, Mountains, Yolcanoes, Valleys, Caverns, Sa- banas or Plains, Kivers, Waterfalls, Lakes and Lagoons, Oienagas or Swamps, Salt-fields, Harbors, etc., Climate, Diseases, Animals, Vegetation, Minerals, etc., etc Page 7-44 Political and Industrial Geography.— Population, Religion, Territorial Divisions, Government, Laws, Ethnography, Idiom, Character and Customs, Publifi^nstrtiB- tion, Manufactures and Arts, Agriculture, Navigation, Commerce, Revenue, Ex- penditure, Intercommunication, Coat of Arms, Measures, Weights, Currency, Forces, etc 44-70 Adjacent Islands. — Isla de Pinos, etc 71-73 Description op the Jurisdictions. — Capital Towns, Villages, Petty Districts, Com- munities, Productions, Peculiarities, etc., of each 74-103 Ancient Geography 104-109 History of the Island.— Discovery, Conquest and Colonization, Organization, Civ- ilization, Era of Prosperity, etc 110-117 Statistics of Cuba.— Population of the Island in 1853, Progress of Population, Towns of 1,500 Inhabitants and upward, in 1841, 1846, and 1853; Rural Establishments, Distribution of Land, Chief Agricultural Products in 1852, Staple Exports, Navi- gation and Commerce, Sugar Exported from 1791 to 1850, Other Exports from 1826 to 1850, Copper Exported from 1841 to 1850, Value of Commerce with Foreign Na- tions, Commercial Movement, Revenue of the Island from 1826 to 1850. . . 118-127 Appendix 128-131 vi Contents. PART II. MEMOIR OP THE ISLAND OP PORTO RICO. Physical Geography. — Position, Form, Boundaries, Extent and Area, Coasts, Capes and Points, Adjacent Islands and Keys, Eeefs and Shoals, Channels, Mountains and Valleys, Lagoons, Salt-ponds, Harbors, etc., Currents, Climate, Diseases, Ani- mals, Vegetation, Minerals 133-145 Political Geography.— Population, Religion, Administrative Divisions, Exchequer, Church, Army, Navy, Laws, Education, Character and Customs, etc. .... 146-154 Industrial Geography.— Manufactures and Arts, Agriculture, Navigation and Com- merce, Communication, "Weights and Measures, Currency, etc 155-163 Dependencies.— Vieques or Crab Island, Culebras, etc 164, 165 Eakly History 166, 167 The Capital and the Departments.— San Juan Bautista, Bayamon, Arecibo, Agua- dilla, Mayagiies, Ponce, Humacao, Guayama, etc 168-185 Statistical Appendix 186-199 CUBA: PHYSICAL, POLITICAL, AND INDUSTRIAL. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. Absolute or Astronomical Position.— The Island of Cuba is situated in the torrid zone, between longitudes 67° 51' 8" and 78° 40' 22" west of the meridian of Cadiz,* and latitudes 19° 48' 30" and 23° 12' 45" north. It therefore falls short about 16 minutes of the tropic of Cancer, where the temperate zone begins. Relative Position. — Relatively to the surface of the globe the island is advantageously situated in the Atlantic Ocean at the entrance of the Gulf of Mexico, and between the two Americas ; for which reason it is called the " Key of the New World," " Queen and bulwark of the Antil- les," and, also, because the largest and most westerly of the islands, " Mother of the Antilles." Extremities.— The points which constitute the extreme ends of the island are— Cabo San Antonio on the west, and Cabo Maisi on the east ; although are also remarkable— Punta Frances (on the northern extrem- ity of Cabo Hicacos), as being the most northerly point of the Cuban continent ; Cabo Lucrecia ; Punta del Ingles (near Cabo de Cruz), which is the southern extremity of the island ; Punta Gorda or de Mangle, on Cabo Matahambre ; and Punta de Aguirre, the southern extremity of Cabo Corrientes. Figure. — The form of the island is long and narrow, appearing as an irregular disc, with its convexity facing the north. The territory com- prised between Cabo San Antonio and the meridian of the Mariel runs * The Morro light at Havana is in 76° 4' 40" west longitude of Cadiz, and in 23° 9' 26" north latitude. The meridian of Cadiz, used throughout this work corresponds to 6° 17' 14" east from Greenwich ; hence by adding such sum to the sum of the given meridian, that commonly used by English and American astronomers is obtained. 8 Cuba : from south-west to north-east ; that comprised between the meridians of the ^lariel and of Cardenas, from east to west ; and that comprised be- tween Cardenas and Cabo Maisi, from north-west to south-east.* Boundaries* — On the west and north-west is the Gulf of Mexico. On the north, the Florida channel, which separates it from the peninsula of the same name, the southern mouth of the new channel of the Bahamas, the Canal de los Roques, the old Bahama channel, and the Atlantic Ocean. On the west, the Maisi passage, which separates it from the island of Hayti or St. Domingo. On the south, the sea called Columbian, Carib- bean, or of the Antilles. On the south-west, the passage or strait of Yucatan. Neighboring Land* — At the north, the peninsula of Florida, whose Cabo Tancha, Arena, or Aji lies 32 maritime leagues from Cabo Hicacos ;t Cayos de los Roques, of which the one called Sal is 15 maritime leagues off \% and Cayos Guincho, Lobos, Punta de Diamante, Mfjcaras, and Santo Domingo, on the southern edge of the Grand Bank of Bahama, at a mean distance of about 12 leagues from the coast of this island. At the east, the British island of Great Inagua, 15 leagues from Cabo Maisi. At the south-east, the island of Hayti, whose Cabo Mole or San Nicolas is at a distance of 14 leagues, and Cabo Dona Maria on the south, 37 leagues from Cabo Maisi. At the south, the British islands of Jamaica (25 leagues from Cabo Cruz), Great Caiman, and Little Caiman, at a distance of about 50 leagues from Cienfuegos.|| At the south-west, the peninsula of Yucatan, whose Cabo Catoche is only 38 leagues from Cabo San Antonio ; and at the west and north-west, the coasts of the Mexican Gulf, from Tampico to Florida. Advantages and Disadvantages of the Form and Position of the Island* — Jts length and narrowness, and the great number of its mag- nificent harbors, doubtless constitute its greatest advantages, affording, as they do, great facilities for a sea-trade, which is so much more econom- ical than communication by land ; but, at the same time, they offer the * In this manner the periphery of the island may be easily traced, drawing first two parallel lines in the directions indicated, and bearing in mind that the parallels of the first course given are in extent as 2, those of the second as H, and those of the third as 7} of the 11 parts into which the length of the island is to be considered divided. t The reefs or chains of keys projecting into the sea west of Cabo Tancha (the chief of which is Cayo Hueso or Key West) are only about 30 maritime leagues distant from the nearest coast of Cuba, with which they form the Florida channel. X Until very recently the island was almost supplied with salt from this islet, but at present the English owners of that bank prohibit Spaniards from extracting the article as an object of trade. |! More to the south, the American continent comprised between Honduras and Santa Marta. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 9 disadvantage of requiring a large maritime force to guard the coast, as well against smugglers as against the invasion of enemies. Situated as the island is, at the entrance of the Gulf of Mexico, it becomes almost necessarily the stopping-place (especially its flourishing capital) of all vessels bound for Vera Cruz, and other places within said Gulf.* And how vastly will not the advantages of the superior position of Havana be increased when the projected union of the Atlantic and Pacific oceans through the isthmus of Tehuantepec shall be realized ? Or the gigantic undertaking of a railroad from New Orleans to the Pacific ? Neither is the position of the island less favorable from lying between the enter- prising and commercial Anglo-American nation on the one hand, and the growing Spanish-American republics on the other, since, being the stop- ping-place for vessels, and likewise the depot of European merchandise, it derives benefit from the trade of all those countries. Extent. — The greatest extent of the island is from east to west, or from Cabo Maisi to Cabo San Antonio. If we draw a line through the centre of the irregular disc formed by the island, we shall find a length of 220 maritime or 376 itinerary leagues. Its greatest breadth, from Cabo Lucrecia to Cabo de Cruz, is 45 maritime leagues ; from the mouth of the port of Nuevitas to the mouth of the port of Mota, 37 ; from the mouth of the Mariel to the Bay of Majana, 7£ ; and from the mouth of the harbor of Havana to Batabano, 9 J maritime leagues. The average breadth is about 16 leagues. Surface or Arca^— The area of the Cuban continent is 3,804 square leagues (20 to the equatorial degree) ; and adding 68 for the island of Pinos, and 101 for the other adjacent islands and keys, we have a total of 3,973 square leagues.f * Nature, so lavish in benefiting the Mexican territory, denied it any ports worthy of the name, for which reason Havana was not entirely forgotten during the dependence of Mexico on the Spanish monarchy, as, failing of good harbors in that republic, gov- ernment found it necessary to build and maintain almost always its squadrons at Havana. t Equal to 35,757 square geographical miles, or 47,27S square English miles. Thus the territory of the island is equal to a little more than the fourth part of that possessed by the monarchy on the Iberian peninsula (15,260 square leagues); to the half of the Phil- ippine Islands (8,000 square leagues), and to more than nine times the island of Porto Eico. The area of the island is greater than that of Portugal, Holland, Switzerland, Denmark, and Greece : than each of the Italian states, and those of the Germanic con- federation (except Austria and Prussia) ; than the principalities of Moldavia, Wallachia, and Servia, and the whole of the Ionian Islands. It is equal to Belgium, England proper (without Wales), the States of New York, Pennsylvania, Mississippi, North Car- olina, and Louisiana, and greater than all the other Antilles together, which are only 3,814 square leagues. Although the general surface of the Cuban territory is pretty well ascertained, the same is not the case with the interior divisions, such as the jurisdic- 1* 10 Cuba : Circumference*— Following the straightest line along the coast, the island presents a frontage to the sea of 573 maritime leagues, of which 272 correspond to the north coast, and 301 to the south coast. Coasts* — Considering that the island has a sea-board of 573 leagues (272 on the north, and 301 on the south), it will be seen that it comprises a greater extent than that of the peninsula of Spain, which is only 487 leagues. The coasts of the island are bold and unobstructed in the spaces comprised between Bahia-Honda and Cabo Hicacos, between the penin- sula of Sabinal and Cabo Maisi, between the latter and Cabo Cruz, be- tween Trinidad and the Bay of Cochinos, and between Punta Frances and Cabo San Antonio ; but the rest are surrounded by islands, islets, keys, and shoals, which encroach within a few leagues, presenting obstacles to navigators unacquainted with the channels or guts affording a passage between them to the harbors and anchorages. The greater part of the outline of the coast consists of a zone of very low land, in some places nearly level with the water, and very subject to inundation, giving rise to permanent, and, in some instances, very extensive swamps. This is espe- cially the case on the southern coast. These marshes are almost invari- ably lined with mangroves. The coasts are indented by a large number of harbors, bays, creeks, and embarcaderos or embarking places; and among the harbors are many that surpass or rival the best on the face of the globe. €ulfs. — Six great and remarkable influxes of the sea may be so styled, viz., that of Guanahacabibes, an open gulf at the west of the island, between Cabo San Antonio and Santa Isabel Bay (ensenada) ; that of Barajagua, also open, between Cabo Lucrecia and Sagua de Tanamo River ; that of Gacanayabo, also open, between Cabo Cruz and the Najaza River, with the bays of Birama and Buey ; the open Gulf of Ornofay, between Punta Macurijes and the Jatibonico River ; the closed one of Matamano, between Cabo Matahambre and Punta Carraguao ; and the open one of Guaniguanico (known as Ensenada de Cortes), between Punta de la Fisga and the so-called Cabo Frances. In the island of Pinos we may also con- sider as a gulf what is called Ensenada de Siguanea. Peninsulas. — Guanahacabibes, at the west end of the island, between the inlets or albuferas (miscalled ensenadas) of Guadiana and Cortes ; La Rosa, in the lagoon of Ariguanabo ; Zapata, between the bays of Broa and Cochinos; Hicacos, which is five leagues long, and closes on the north - tions, districts, etc., and the differences observed between the statistical returns of 1S27 and 1846, and the great general chart of the island, arise from the fact that other data have been used in the case of some territories. Thus the area of Pinos Island appears in said documents as 810 square miles, and we have assigned only 614^ as calculated by Sr. Lanier by order of the government. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 11 west the vast Bay of Cardenas; Sabinal, between the bay of the same name and the port of Nuevitas ; and Entre-Casco, between the ports of Mayari and Cabonico.* Capes and Principal Points.— On the north coast are — Cabo San An- tonio (the western extremity of the island), with a light-house called Roncali ; Punta de Abalo or de los Organos, north of the inlet of Guadi- ana ; Punta de la Gobernadora, west of the port of Bahia-Honda ; Punta Brava on the west, and Punta Bacuranao on the east of Havana, which are remarkable only for their proximity to the capital of the island ; Punta Tarara, west of the mouth of the river of the same name ; Puntas Guanos, Ubero-Alto, Sabanilla, and Maya, at the entrance of the port of Matan- zas ; Cabo Hicacos, running from south-west to north-east, and at its northern extremity Punta Frances (the most northerly of the Cuban con- tinent), and at its eastern extremity Punta Mola ; Punta Curiana, adjoin- ing the Bay of Jigiiey, and remarkable only as a point of demarkation to the maritime division ; Punta Brava, at the western extremity of the port of Guanaja ; Punta del Sabinal and Punta Maternillos, at the mouth of the port of Nuevitas, with a light-house called Colon ; Cabo Lucrecia, at the north of the port of Nipe ; Cabo Guarico, near Moa ; Cabo Maisi, the eastern extremity of the island, low and sandy. On the south coast are — Punta Verraco, a cape near the port of Cuba ; Cabo Cruz, one of the most remarkable in the island ; Punta de Macurijes ; Punta Casilda, at the entrance of the port of the same name ; Punta San Juan, between Trinidad and Jagua ; Punta Don Cristobal, remarkable only as the bound- ary between the maritime provinces of Trinidad and Havana ; Cabo Matahambre, western extremity of the Zapata swamp ; Punta Maya- beque, at the mouth of the river of the same name ; Punta Salinas ; Punta Comegatos ; Punta Carraguao or Mediacasa, at the east of the estuary of Dayaniguas; Punta del Gato ; Punta de la Fisga ; Punta Frances ; Cabo Corrientes, with Punta Aguirre at its southern extremity ; and Punta del Holandes, near Cabo San Antonio. In the island of Pinos the chief are — Punta del Este ; Cabo Frances, and Punta Buenavista, at the en- trance of the Bay of Siguanea. Adjacent Islands, Keys, and Shoals.— Bordering upon the Island of Cuba are four distinct and well-defined archipelagos : two on the north- ern coast, and two on the southern. In that of Guaniguanico,f on the * We do not mention the peninsula of La Herradura, in the port of Cabafias, because there are similar ones in almost all the principal ports of the island, the most notable among which being that of Cayo Juan Tomas, in the same port, and the one lying between the ports of Banes (eastern) and Nipe. t This name and that of the following group have been bestowed by the author with reference to the aboriginal provinces to which they are most contiguous. 10 Cuba : Circumference.— Following the straightest line along the coast, the island presents a frontage to the sea of 573 maritime leagues, of which 272 correspond to the north coast, and 301 to the south coast. Coasts* — Considering that the island has a sea-board of 573 leagues (272 on the north, and 301 on the south), it will be seen that it comprises a greater extent than that of the peninsula of Spain, which is only 487 leagues. The coasts of the island are bold and unobstructed in the spaces comprised between Bahia-Honda and Cabo Hicacos, between the penin- sula of Sabinal and Cabo Maisi, between the latter and Cabo Cruz, be- tween Trinidad and the Bay of Cochinos, and between Punta Frances and Cabo San Antonio ; but the rest are surrounded by islands, islets, keys, and shoals, which encroach within a few leagues, presenting obstacles to navigators unacquainted with the channels or guts affording a passage between them to the harbors and anchorages. The greater part of the outline of the coast consists of a zone of very low land, in some places nearly level with the water, and very subject to inundation, giving rise to permanent, and, in some instances, very extensive swamps. This is espe- cially the case on the southern coast. These marshes are almost invari- ably lined with mangroves. The coasts are indented by a large number of harbors, bays, creeks, and embarcaderos or embarking places; and among the harbors are many that surpass or rival the best on the face of the globe. €u:fs. — Six great and remarkable influxes of the sea may be so styled, viz., that of Guanahacabibes, an open gulf at the west of the island, between Cabo San Antonio and Santa Isabel Bay (ensenada) ; that of Barajagua, also open, between Cabo Lucrecia and Sagua de Tanamo River ; that of Gacanayabo, also open, between Cabo Cruz and the Najaza River, with the bays of Birama and Buey ; the open Gulf of Ornofay, between Punta Macurijes and the Jatibonico River ; the closed one of Matamano, between Cabo Matahambre and Punta Carraguao ; and the open one of Guaniguanico (known as Ensenada de Cortes), between Punta de la Fisga and the so-called Cabo Frances. In the island of Pinos we may also con- sider as a gulf what is called Ensenada de Siguanea. Peninsulas* — Guanahacabibes, at the west end of the island, between the inlets or albuferas (miscalled ensenadas) of Guadiana and Cortes ; La Rosa, in the lagoon of Ariguanabo ; Zapata, between the bays of Broa and Cochinos; Hicacos, which is five leagues long, and closes on the north - tions, districts, etc., and the differences observed between the statistical returns of 1S27 and 1846, and the great general chart of the island, arise from the fact that other data have been used in the case of some territories. Thus the area of Pinos Island appears in said documents as 810 square miles, and we have assigned only 614^ as calculated by Sr. Lanier by order of the government. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 11 •west the vast Bay of Cardenas; Sabinal, between the bay of the same name and the port of Nuevitas ; and Entre-Casco, between the ports of Mayari and Cabonico.* Capes and Principal Points. — On the north coast are — Cabo San An- tonio (the western extremity of the island), with a light-house called Roncali ; Punta de Abalo or de los Organos, north of the inlet of Guadi- ana; Punta de la Gobernadora, west of the port of Bahia-Honda ; Punta Brava on the west, and Punta Bacuranao on the east of Havana, which are remarkable only for their proximity to the capital of the island ; Punta Tarara, west of the mouth of the river of the same name ; Puntas Guanos, Ubero-Alto, Sabanilla, and Maya, at the entrance of the port of Matan- zas ; Cabo Hicacos, running from south-west to north-east, and at its northern extremity Punta Frances (the most northerly of the Cuban con- tinent), and at its eastern extremity Punta Mola ; Punta Curiana, adjoin- ing the Bay of Jigiiey, and remarkable only as a point of demarkation to the maritime division ; Punta Brava, at the western extremity of the port of Guanaja ; Punta del Sabinal and Punta Maternillos, at the mouth of the port of Nuevitas, with a light-house called Colon ; Cabo Lucrecia, at the north of the port of Nipe ; Cabo Guarico, near Moa ; Cabo Maisi, the eastern extremity of the island, low and sandy. On the south coast are— Punta Verraco, a cape near the port of Cuba ; Cabo Cruz, one of the most remarkable in the island ; Punta de Macurijes ; Punta Casilda, at the entrance of the port of the same name ; Punta San Juan, between Trinidad and Jagua ; Punta Don Crist&bal, remarkable only as the bound- ary between the maritime provinces of Trinidad and Havana; Cabo Matahambre, western extremity of the Zapata swamp ; Punta Maya- beque, at the mouth of the river of the same name ; Punta Salinas ; Punta Comegatos ; Punta Carraguao or Mediacasa, at the east of the estuary of Dayaniguas; Punta del Gato ; Punta de la Fisga ; Punta Frances ; Cabo Corrientes, with Punta Aguirre at its southern extremity ; and Punta del Holandes, near Cabo San Antonio. In the island of Pinos the chief are — Punta del Este ; Cabo Frances, and Punta Buenavista, at the en- trance of the Bay of Siguanea. Adjacent Islands, Keys, and Shoals* — Bordering upon the Island of Cuba are four distinct and well-defined archipelagos : two on the north- ern coast, and two on the southern. In that of Guaniguanico,f on the * We do not mention the peninsula of La Herradura, in the port of Cabanas, because there are similar ones in almost all the principal ports of the island, the most notable among which being that of Cayo Juan Tomas, in the same port, and the one lying between the ports of Banes (eastern) and Nipe. t This name and that of the following group have been bestowed by the author with reference to the aboriginal provinces to which they are most contiguous. 32 Cuba: most westerly part of the north coast, are to be distinguished the follow- ing keys and shoals : Sancho Pardo, an isolated shoal, lying six leagues north-west of Cabo San Antonio, of little extent, but much feared by nav- igators ; Santa Isabel and the Colorados, long and dangerous shoals, ex- tending from near Punta de Abalo into Bahia-Honda; the Cayos de Buenavista, Rapado, Diego, and Jutias ; the two Cayos de Ines de Soto, with watering-place ; that of Lebisa ; the small group of Alacranes, and Cayo Blanco. The other northerly archipelago extends from Cabo Hica- cos to the peninsula of Sabinal. For the better classification of the islands, keys, and shoals that compose it, we shall divide it into two groups : one we shall term Sabaneque, from its proximity to the old prov- ince so called, and the other Jardines (gardens) del Rey, which name was bestowed upon it by the discoverer of the island (doubtless because of the luxuriant appearance it derives from the mangrove, coco-plum, and other shrubs, which clothe or line most of them) ; the remarkable break descried at the north of Turiguano island will serve to divide the two groups. That of Sabaneque comprises Cayo Monito, Cayo Piedras (with a light), and Cayo Mono, which are the most westerly of the group ; Cayo Diana (with a light), near Punta de Mola, on Cabo Hicacos ; Cayos de Cupeyes, near the Bay of Cardenas : all these present a picturesque and pleasing appearance to passengers by sea between Matanzas and Car- denas; Cayo Cruz del Padre, where a light is about to be erected ; Cayo Blanco ; Cayo de Cinco Leguas, very singular and remarkable ; Cayo Bahia de Cadiz, with good anchorage ; Cayo Verde ; Cayo Sotavento , Cayos Cristo, Fragoso, and Frances, which are considerable, the last con- taining a spacious bay termed de Caldera, wherein a squadron may an- chor ; Cayo Cobos, and Cayos de Santa Maria. In the group of Jardines del Rey are to be distinguished Cayo Media-Luna ; Turiguano island ; Cayo Guillermo ; the island called Cayo Coco ; the island called Cayo Ro- mano, which is the largest of the archipelago ;* Cayo Paredon del Medio, to be furnished with a light; Cayo Paredon- Grande ; Cayos del Barril; Cayo Cruz ; Cayo Confites, which is small, and shows a light, and, together with the four last, lies on the edge of the old Bahama channel ; and, final- ly, Gua jaba island. The portion of coast comprised between the mouth of the port of Nuevitas and Cabo Maisi is in general rocky and clear, there being only the small Cayos Moa and Burro, the latter at the boundary of the districts of Cuba and Baracoa. Of the two archipelagos on the south- ern coast, one faces the space comprised between Cabo de Cruz and Trin- idad, and the other the coast extending between Cochinos Bay and the inlet (termed l agoon) of Cortes; the first retains the name of Jardines * This island, as well as those of Turiguan6, Coco, Guajaba,and Pinos, will be espe- cially mentioned in the sequel. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 13 de la Reina, bestowed by the discoverer (although also known as Labe- rinto, or Cayos de las doce Leguas, which name is peculiar to the keys at the south of this archipelago) ; the second we shall call Canarreos, as it was termed by the natives. Among the Jardines de la Reina we shall notice the Cayos de Manzanillo, Bajo de Buena-Esperanza ; the Labe- rinto. or Cayos de las doce Leguas, which is a chain running from south- east to north-west, composed of the largest and most northerly keys of this archipelago ; those at the east end being called Jamaicanas, and the most westerly, Cayo Breton ; Cayo Piedras being distinguished by having been visited by Columbus on his second voyage, and who named it Santa Maria; Cayos de Ana Maria; Cayo Saza, south of the landing-place of the same name ; and Cayo Guayo, at the entrance of port Casilda. Between the archipelagos De la Reina and Canarreos lie the isolated shallows of La Paz and Jagua. In the archipelago of the Canarreos are observed— the bank of Los Jardines and Jardinillos, south of the Zapata swamp, containing Cayos Rabihorcado and de Pasaje, and the islet of Cayo- Largo, with watering-place ; Cayos Blanco, Diego, Perez, Flamenco, and Bonito, adjoining the Bay of Cazones (coast of the aforesaid Zapata swamp) ; Cayos Juan Luis and Guanimar ; Bajos Patatillos ; Cayos de los Indios, and de San Felipe (within view of vessels from La Vuelta- Abajo) ; and, above all, the important island of Pinos, which merits the especial description given in the sequel. Straits and Channels.— Such as are near to the island we shall style common, or belonging to all nations, and adjacent such as are annexed to the government of the island. Under the caption of common are— the Florida channel, formed by the keys or reefs of Florida, and the north coast of this island from the port of Havana to the Canal de Hicacos ; the new Bahama channel, between the open peninsula of Florida and the Grand Bank of Bahama (as its currents tend toward the north, it serves, in the transit to Europe, for vessels going out of the Mexican Gulf or from the coasts of this island) ; the Canal de Santaren, be- tween the shallow of Los Roques and the Grand Bank of Bahama ; the old Bahama channel, between the Grand Bank and the northern coast of the island, from San Juan de los Remedios to Cabo Lucrecia (as its currents flow toward the north-west, it serves for vessels coming from Europe to the north coast of the island or to the Mexican Gulf) ; the Freo deMaisi (or de los pajaros), between Cabo Maisi and Cabo San Nicolas in Hayti; Freo de Colon, between this island and Jamaica; and, finally, the Estrecho de Yucatan between Cabos San Antonio and Catoche on the open peninsula of Yucatan. The adjacent ones are as follows : in the Sabaneque group, the passage or Boca de la Manui (east of Cardenas), separating the famous Cayo de Cinco Leguas ; the Canal del Pargo, front- 16 Cuba : opening through which runs the river of the same name ; the Jiquima, north-west of Madruga and 100 varas high ; Sierra de Madruga, Cayaja- bos, etc., east of the town of Madruga; Sierras de Caobas, Limon, Santa Ana, and Gonzales ; and the Lomas de Cabaljan and Jacan, containing copper ores, south of Limonal, and commanding a distant view of the sea; Loma de Cantel, on which is the town of the same name ; Tetas de Camarioca, a notable ridge six leagues from Matanzas, presenting two conical peaks 400 varas high, which serve as land- marks to mariners ; Loma de Triana, north of Lagunillas, and Lomas de las Quimbambaras, south-west of the town of Roque. In the Saba- neque group may be comprised the comparatively low Sierra de Limones and Sierra Morena ; the Jumaguas, isolated hills west of Sagua la Grande ; Sierra Matahambre, 600 varas in height ; Sierras Bamburanao and Centeno ; Lomas de Meneses, Canoa, and Babuya, and Sierra de Jatibonico, whence arise two rivers of the same name. The group Cubanacan comprises the remarkable and craggy Sierra de Escambray, source of the copious rivers Sagua la Grande, Sagua la Chica, and Agabama, contains mines of copper, and, according to history, of gold and silver. In the group Guamuhaya the principal are, Sierra de Jagua, between Cienfuegos and Trinidad ; Pico Blanco and Cabeza del Muerto (which mariners call Cabeza de San Juan), 1,000 varas high ; Cabagan; Pico Potrerillo, north of Trinidad, 1,094 varas high, and visible on fine days at a distance of 21 leagues ; Sierras de San Juan de Letran; de Guaniquical ; Trancas de Galvez ; Sierras de Yaguasal ; Lomas de la Rosa, and de Banao (1,000 varas high) ; Pan de Azucar ; Pico Tuerto, and Sierra de la Gloria, boundary between Trinidad and Santo Espiritu. Of the Camagueyano group the chief are, Sierra de Cubitas, whose sum- mit is the lofty Loma de Tuabaquei, which, with that of Limones, forms a land-port, called Boca de Cubitas : this ridge contains the largest and most remarkable caverns in the island; Loma Camajan; Sierra de Judas ; Cerros Cascarro and Bayatabo, where a rich copper mine is being worked ; and, south of Puerto Principe, the Sierras Guaicanamar and Chorillo. Among the group Maniabon we distinguish the Mesa de Manati, west of the mout'h of the port of that name ; Sierra Dumanuecos ; Lomas Rompe and Carcamisas ; the Mesa de Jibara, which is a land- mark to navigators, and the Lomas de Almiqui, south-west of Holguin, where gold has been found. Group Macaca extends from Cape Cruz to the Baconao River, and is known as the Sierra Maestra; it consists of the highest mountains of the Antillian system, the most remarkable being the Ojo de Toro, a striking peak near Cape Cruz, 1,200 varas in height. Pico Turquino, the nucleus of the Antillian system* towering * In 1845, while in Cuba with the commission of forming the statistics of the eastern Physical, Political, and Industrial. 17 to the height of 2,800 varas, and presenting a majestic appearance; Sierra del Cobre ; Sierra Armonia de Limones, part of the Sierra Maestra, north-east of Cuba, replete with coffee-plantations, producing the best in the island ; the Gran-Piedra, a remarkable mountain, 2,600 varas high, in the form of a truncated cone, on the top of which rests a vast rock, as if fallen from heaven ;* Loma del Gato, 1,179 varas high ; and Loma de la Guinea, 1,213 varas high. In the group Sagua- Baracoa are the Sierra de Nipe, the Sierra de Cristal, and Cuchillas de Santa Catalina; Sierra de la Vela, which forms the boundary of Salta- dero, Cuba, and Baracoa ; Sierra de Moa ; Cuchillas de Toa ; Sierra del Yunque, east of Baracoa, and the most striking of the group; it is a truncated cone, which, added to its height (1,000 varas), makes it a guiding-point to navigators; and Cuchillas de Baracoa, south of the city of that name. Volcanoes. — There are no active ones in the island, but the pumice- stone, and other substances found in the Cabaljana and other mountains, prove them to be extinct volcanoes, as also the pyramidal forms of the imposing Turquino, the Ojo de Toro, Tetas de Camarioca, and others ; and the lake crowning the conical and isolated Yunque indicates an old crater. Valleys. — That of Ceja Ana de Luna, south-east of the Chorrera, or Consolacion del Norte ; that of Guines, one of the most extensive in the island, and presenting such a magnificent appearance when viewed from the Loma de Candela, that Humboldt declares it unequaled; the re- markable and picturesque valley of Yumuri, east of Matanzas, formed by the hills which, extending along the Cumbre and the coast to Punta de Guanos, close in toward the Pan, Palenque, etc. ; the valleys of Siguanea and Jibacoa, north-west of Trinidad ; the picturesque valley of Los Injenios de Trinidad, and many others in the mountainous juris- diction of Cuba. Caverns. — Many of the innumerable caverns piercing each of the mountainous groups are exceedingly curious, but we shall mention only department, the author intended, in company with the intelligent engineer M. Sage- bien, who was provided with an excellent barometer, to measure the principal heights of the Sierra Maestra, but was prevented from doing so. The measures of many of them have been furnished by M. Sagebien, but, unfortunately, not those of the loftiest points of said ridge. * La Grosse-Eoche, as it is termed by the Frenchmen who first cultivated those mountains, is a parallelopiped whose upper face is 52 feet long and 19 wide. For some time the southern bed of it has been crumbling away, and the earthquakes have formed a hollow round its base. It is reasonable to suppose that the rains have sub- sequently undermined it, and it may fall in the course of the present century. When this shall happen the concussion will be perceived at a very great distance, and it is likely that the mass will not stop short of Juragua, at a distance of at least two leagues from its present site. 18 Cuba: a few of the best known. One in the Sierra del Rosario, on the road to San Cristobal, where several of Narciso Lopez's party sought refuge; those of Jaiguan, with a stream of excellent water running through them, and affording a convenient bathing-place ; the remarkable one of Cotilla, six leagues from Havana ;* those of San Juan de los Reme- dios ; those of Cubitas, the most notable in the island, as well for their extent as for their singular features ; and, finally, the vast number that are found in the broken ground on the east of the island, and which, besides being remarkable in themselves, contain in many instances osseous remains, idols, and utensils of the primitive inhabitants. Sabanas or Plains — There are many at the east of the district com- prised between Cape San Antonio and the jurisdiction of Matanzas ; in the jurisdictions of Cardenas, Sagua la Grande, Villa Clara, Cienfuegos, and even San Juan de los Remedios ; but the most extensive (in some cases limited only by the horizon) are those of Santo Espiritu, Puerto Principe, Holguin, and Bayamo. Rivers* — On the northern coast are the following : Pan de Azucar, small, but with a strong current, and serving as the boundary between the jurisdictions of Pinar del Rio and Bahia-Honda ; Ortigosa, or Santiago, bounding between Bahia-Honda and Mariel ; Banes (formerly Bani), small, but with good anchorage, a tower, and salt-water baths near its mouth ; Baracoa, boundary between Mariel and Santiago ; Marianao, boundary between Santiago and Havana, is a small river running near the town of that name, and whose waters are exquisite, and even medicinal; Chorrera (formerly Casiguaguas) rises in the Loma del Gallo, near Tapaste, under the name of Jicotea, extends into Lake Curbelo, then takes successively the names of Jiaraco, Chorrera, Catalina, Calabazar (on passing by the town of that name), Almen- darez (where an excellent spring is received, and from which it is pur- posed to supply Havana), running along the Husillo, at a distance of two leagues from Havana (whence water is at present furnished to the capital), Puentes-Grandes, on passing by the bathing-town of that name, and finally resuming the name of Chorrera at its month; Luyano (vulgarly Villano), which is remarkable only for disemboguing at the south of the harbor of Havana, and as the dividing line between Havana and Guanabacoa, from its mouth to Rio Hondo, and having formerly serv- ed to supply the city of Havana ; Jaruco, part of which, together with the Guanabo, more to the west, is the boundary between Guanabacoa and Jaruco ; Yumuri, a narrow river, five leagues in its course, watering the picturesque valley of that name, and passing through a remarkable * A description of this and other caves has been published by Sr. Carles in the Diario de la Eabana for August, 1S47. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 19 opening, disembogues at the north of the city of Matanzas, separating the fine district of Versalles, and serving as a channel for large lighters for a distance of half a league from its mouth ; San Juan receives the San Agustin and other rivulets which dilate it, and under various names disembogues at the south of Matanzas, separating therefrom the ward of Pueblo-Nuevo, and spanned by two bridges communicating between that ward and said city : like the Yumuri it is navigable for lighters for a space of one league ; Canimar, a magnificent river with a course of six leagues, and, like the two preceding, emptying into the Bay of Ma- tanzas, being navigable nearly two leagues by schooners, and for a greater distance if its windings are followed ; Camarioca, with anchor- age east of the Bay of Matanzas; San Anton de la Anegada, east of the Jucaro station ; Jucaro,* which rises in Sabanilla de la Palma, and disembogues (like the Canal of San Mateo) in the Bay of Santa Clara ; La Palma, a considerable river, emptying opposite the Canal del Pargo, and serving, like the latter, as a boundary in the maritime division : it is navigable as far as its embarking-place, one league distant ; Las Cruces, opposite the Canal de Nicolas Sanchez, and spreading its waters into the swamp of the coast ; Sierra Morena, limited in its course, has served as a boundary between the western and central departments, and is such at present between the division of the districts of the Audiencias and for the Intendancies of Havana and Puerto Principe; Sagua la Grande, the largest river of the northern coast, rises in the Sierra del Escambray, runs a course of 35 leagues, and passes by the towns of Santo Domingo and Sagua la Grande, whence it is navigable for schooners as far as its mouth, a distance of seven leagues, and very tortuous ;f Caonao, one and a half leagues in length, from its mouth to the estuary of Granadillo, and serving as a boundary between Sagua la Grande and Villa Clara ; Sagua la Chica also rises in the Sierra del Escambray, is 25 leagues long, having the Embarcadero del Santo a league from its mouth, and serving as a boundary between Villa Clara and San Juan de los Remedios ; Jatibonico del Norte rises at the south of the Sierra de Jatibonico (where Jatibonico del Sur also has its origin), disappearing at a short distance and reappearing a league off in boisterous cascades ; it disembogues east of Punta Judas, after a course of 15 miles, and serves as a boundary between Remedios and Santo Espiritu ; Los Perros (called Chambas at its head) rises in Sierra Matahambre and passes by Hato Camagueyano ; La Yana (called Arroyo Pablos at its origin) empties itself on the east of Laguna Moron, and serves as a boundary of the chief military and ecclesiastical divisions; Caonao arises at the north of Puerto * The station, and even the railroad of Jucaro, have therefore been improperly named, t In a straight line the distance is but about four leagues. 20 Cuba : Principe, and passes near the parish of Mulato; Jigiiey rises at the south of the Sierra de Cubitas, and disembogues east of Punta Curiana; Macsimo, a short river that empties into the Bay of Sabinal, and re- markable because it is supposed that Columbus made his first landing in the island at its mouth, calling it the San Salvador, the 28th of October, 1492; Saramaguacan, 20 leagues long, rises near Puerto Principe, and empties into the bay of Mayanabo, port of Nuevitas'; Las Cabreras, that used to be the dividing line between the eastern and central departments, empties itself before reaching the coast ; Yarigua disembogues in the port of Manati, and has its borders covered with brilliant pebbles; Ta- cajo, that empties into the Bay of Nipe ; Mayari, that rises in the Lomas de Tiguabos, passes by the town of its name, and disembogues three leagues thence in the port of Nipe, after a course of 85 leagues ; Sagua de Tanamo, 22 leagues long, copious and navigable as far as the town of that name, four leagues from its mouth ; Cabreras, distinguished only as the boundary between Baracoa and Cuba ; Moa, a short river, which disappears at its origin, and forms on its reappearance a cascade of 100 varas ; the Toa, a considerable river, rising in the heights of the same name, and emptying itself north-east of Baracoa ; Macaganigua and Miel, small rivers disemboguing near Baracoa, with bars at their mouths, rendering them dangerous, as was experienced by Hernan Cortes. On the southern coast the rivers are as follows : Sabana-la-mar, boundary between the Saltadero and Baracoa ; Yateras, 24 leagues in length ; Guantanamo, about 25 leagues long, receiving at its right bank the Tiguabos, and emptying itself by the western coast of the Bay of Guantanamo; Aguadores, a short river; Yarayo, short, and disemboguing at the north of the port of Cuba ; Turquino, a short river at the foot of the lofty peak of the same name, and serving as a boundary between Manzanillo and Cuba; Bicana; Yara, bordered by fine tobacco-lands or vegas ; Jicotea, the boundary between Bayamo and Manzanillo ; Buey, of little extent, but overflowing in its course, forms the swamp of the same name; Cauto, the longest and most copious river of the island, having a course of 60 leagues: it rises near Villa del Cobre, at a place called Macuto, receiving on its left margin the rivers Contramaestre and Cautillo (which form the eastern and western boundaries of Jiguani), and the Bayamo, which passes by the city of the same name ; and on its right margin, the rivulet Cayo del Rey, and the deep and broad Salado, 25 leagues long, into which flows the Playuelas rivulet, boundary of Holguin; the Cauto is navigable for schooners a distance of 22 leagues (as far as the town of Cauto del Embarcadero) ; the Jobabo, which used to serve as the boundary be- tween the central and eastern departments ; Sevilla, boundary between Physical, Political, and Industrial. 21 Bayamo and Puerto Principe ; San Juan, Najaza, or Santa Cruz, with a course of 23 leagues, empties itself a short distance east of the port of Santa Cruz, after irrigating the broad savannas at the south of Puerto Principe ; San Pedro or Santa Clara, 33 leagues long, receiving at its origin the rivers Tinima and Jatibonico, which cross the city of Puerto Principe ; Altamira or Duran, which disembogues into the bay of Santa Clara ; Sabana-la-mar, a rivulet serving as a boundary between the dioceses and the military divisions ; Jatibonico del Sur, having a course of 25 leagues, rises in the Sierra de Jatibonico (which also produces the river Jatibonico del Norte), and passes by the town of San Antonio Abad del Jibaro, whence it is navigable for schooners as far as its mouth, a space of three leagues ; Sasa, 35 leagues long, rises in the Sierra Jati- bonico, passes three leagues east of Santo Espiritu, and afterward by the Embarcadero del Algodonal, whence it is navigable as far as its mouth, in the anchorage of Benitez, and serves for the shipping-trade of Santo Espiritu which is authorized for the purpose under the denomination of puerto seco or " dry port ;" the Iguanojo, boundary between Trinidad and Santo Espiritu ; the Agabama, 26 leagues in course, rises in the Escambray Mountains, in the chain called Peha del Agabama : it re- ceives the river Ay (called De los JVegros at its head), which is lost in the splendid valley of Jibacoa, but reappears by the Sierra Yaguasal ; the Guanabo or Tayaba, a short river, but navigable by lighters for the space of a league, or half the distance to Trinidad ; San Juan, a short river, and the boundary between Trinidad and Cienfuegos ; Arimao, with a course of 14 leagues, rises in the Sierra Escambray, waters the beauti- ful vegas of Manicaragua and Mandinga, and passing by the hamlets of Cumanayagua and Arimao, disembogues near the mouth of the port of Jagua, with which it unites by an arm crossing the lagoon of Guanaroca, which arm is known as Derramadero de las Auras : the encomiendas* of the celebrated Father Las Casas and his friend the good Pedro de Renteria >ere situated at this place. ; the river Hanabanilla, which is one of the affluents of the Arimao, produces in the Hacienda de Siguanea a cascade of 120 varas fall ; Caonao, navigable four leagues, rises in the Sierra Escambray, passes near the hamlets of Camarones and Caonao, and empties into the port of Jagua, south of Cienfuegos ; the Salado, naviga- ble six leagues, also disembogues in the port of Jagua; Damuji, 18 leagues long (six of which are navigable and very deep), empties at the north of said port of Jagua, and serves as the boundary between the Intendancies of Havana and Puerto Principe : it contains formidable alligators ; Hanabana, with a course of 10 leagues, receives the rivulet * A grant of land and Indian servants. 22 Cuba : Mayabon, serves as the boundary between the jurisdictions of Cienfuegos and Cardenas, and disembogues in the Laguna del Tesoro, north of Cochi- nos Bay ; Hatiguanico or Atibonico, formed by the Gonzalo rivers, divides the jurisdiction of Cienfuegos from those of Cardenas, Matanzas, and Guines ; Madruga rises in the Loma de Madruga, and disembogues in one of the Guanamon lagoons ; Guara, receiving the Bio-Bianco, which serves as the boundary between Bejucal and Guines ; Mayabeque (formerly Onicajinal), known at its commencement as the Calalina, from arising in the source of the same name, and successively as the Bija, Yamaraguas, and also as Guines : it courses nine leagues through land of the richest description, suitable for all the productions of the climate, and is the only river whose waters have been availed of for irrigation; Govea, flows at its origin between Santiago and Bejucal, and, after fertilizing a multitude of farms, empties into the lagoon of Arigu- anabo, serving as the boundary between San Antonio, Bejucal, and Santiago ; San Antonio takes its rise at the junction of the Govea and the Ariguanabo lagoon, passes by the fine town of San Antonio, at the south of which it disappears at the foot of a leafy Seiba tree (whose roots form a singular arch), and appears again in several caves, among which is that of Jaiguan ; Cajio, a short river, supposed to be an outlet of the San Antonio ; Capellanias, which, like the San Antonio, hides itself at the south of the town of its name, reappears and empties itself before reach- ing the coast ; Macurijes disappears at its origin in a mountain of the Guaniguanico group ; San Diego (formerly Caiguanabo), has a course of 11 leagues, three of which are navigable, and is remarkable for dis- appearing in the Portales (a species of natural arches), and especially for the baths of its name ; La Coloma, river and port, rising in the Sabanas de las Ovas; Guama, rising in the Organos and passing by Pinar del Bio ; San Juan y Martinez, rises in the Organos and receives the Palmillas, JSTegros, and Papaya, disemboguing near Punta de Cartas ; Galafre has its rise in the Contador, receives the Alvarado and Yaguas, and empties into the bay of its name ; Cuyaguateje, the greatest river of the Vuelta-Abajo, being 23 leagues long : it rises in the Organos Mountains, runs through a natural vault, known as the Resolladero, and disembogues north of the inlet of Cortes. Water-Falls. — Although there are several in the declivities of the mountains, we shall mention only the following : the falls of the Manan- tial River (affluent of the Bayate), 80 varas high ; the remarkable ones of the Siguanea, or Salto de la Hanabanilla (affluent of the Arimao), from a height of 120 varas, on the Hacienda Siguanea, which is the boundary point between Cienfuegos, Trinidad, and Villa Clara; the falls of the river Ay (affluent of the Agabama), about 60 varas high ; those of Moa, 100 varas high. There are many others in the eastern part of the Physical, Political, and Industrial. 23 island, among them the falls del Indio, 120 varas high, being a greater height than those of Niagara. Lakes or Lagoons.— In the peninsula of Guanajacabibes there are., among others, the following : the Laguna de Melones, near the Bay of Corrientes ; that of Algodonal and of Lopez, near the inlet of Guadiana ; the Laguna de la Siguanea; Laguna de Ahoga-Caballos, in the dis- trict of Consolacion del Norte (Puercos River) ; Lagunas del Gato and Masio, near the estuary del Gato, at the mouth of Rio-Hondo ; Laguna de Macurijes, south of the Palacios ; Laguna de Piedra, in Hato Guanacaje, west of Bay Majana; Laguna de Fuente-Paloma, west of the port of Cabanas ; Laguna de Ariguanabo, which is a union of three, viz.— the Biragua, Loreto, and Guandambu, merging into one during the rainy season, containing four keys, and forming quite a peninsula, called La Rosa ; it is then a veritable lake, covering a surface of two leagues, and in some places three fathoms deep ; it is abundantly supplied with fish ; it receives the Govea River, and gives rise to that of San Antonio ; on the north it communicates with two or three notable lagoons ; Laguna de Zaldivar, south-west of Ubajay; Laguna Ahoga-Mulas, between Santiago and Ubajay;* Lagunas Berroa, Larga, and del Cobre, near Bacuranao ; Laguna de Curbelo, at the origin of the Almendares River; Lagunas Fabelo, Bainoa, Manajay, or Tibo-Tibo and del Relo or Gua- yabo, between Jaruco and El Aguacate ; Ojo de Agua, in the Catalina River, a spring remarkable for its extent and picturesque aspect, and for giving rise to the river Giiines or Mayabeque ; Lagunas de Guana- mon, abounding in fish, south of La Nueva Paz, one of them receiving the Madruga River; Laguna de Maya, of considerable extent, east of the bay of Matanzas ; Lagunas de Macurijes and del Masio, east of Corral-Falso ; Laguna del Tesoro, which receives the Hanabana River, north of Cochinos Bay, and is unfathomable; Laguna de Caobillas, south- west of the town of that name; Laguna de Guanajayabo, near the Re- creo station, on the Jucaro railroad; Laguna-Nueva, south-east of Guamutas ; Laguna Asiento-Viejo, origin of the Hanabana River ; La- guna Guanaroca, communicating with the Arimao River and the Bay of Jagua; Moron or Laguna-Grande, miscalled lagoon, since it is a passage between the continent of this island and Turiguano island : however, it is said to contain fresh-water ; Laguna de la Sigua (in Cuba), remarkable both for its extent and the excellent fish abounding in its waters. Cienagas or Swamps.— As said before, the stretches of coast fronting the four adjacent archipelagos are almost all swampy ; we notice the fol- lowing : Cienaga del Gato, near the estuary of that name , Cienaga de * The coast comprised between Banes and Marianao Eiver is bordered by a great number of lagoons. 24 Cuba : Dayaniguas and Carraguao, south of Los Palacios ; Cienaga de Majagiii- yal, divided by the Canal of San Mateo, east of the Jticaro ; Cienaga de Zapata, the most notable in the island, since it extends from the Gulf of Matabano to the Bay of Cochinos ; Cienaga de Yaguaraguas ; Cienaga de Buey, between the rivers Buey and Cauto ; Lagunas de Salsipuedes and Laguna-Blanca, in the district of Cauto- Abajo; the first, three leagues in circumference, and the latter two. Salt Fields.— In those places where the tides, especially the lunar and equinoctial tides, flow into the coasts, are formed extensive salt lagoons, which in years of drought, produce considerable quantities of salt, suf- ficient for the consumption of the interior. These lagoons are generally more common on the northern than on the southern coast. We shall notice only the following : those of the Bay of Majana ; those of Cape Hicacos and Choco, which yield over 4,000 arrobas per annum ; those of the Cienaga de Zapata, toward Punta del Padre ; those of the Bay of Cochinos ; those on the south coast of Santo Espiritu ; those of the ports of Malagueta, Padre, and Nipe,* and those at the mouth of the River Sagua de Tanamo ; that north of the Bay of Birama ; and those of Guantanamo, which are very productive. Harbors, Bays, Inlets, Anchorages, etc.— North Coast— In Pinar del Rio : the Guadiana, an inlet (albufera) miscalled bay ; San Francisco and Mantua, embarcaderos or embarking-places ; Los Arroyos, embarca- dero,three leagues from Mantua, and stopping-place of the screw-steamer "Veguero;" Santa Ysabel, embarcadero ; Garnacha and Baja, bays. In Bahia-Honda: El Rosario, a large bay with two embarking-places ; Rio-Puercos, a port, but no town ; La Mulata, a port of the third class, with town; Playitas, embarking-place ; El Morillo, embarking-place north of the town of Las Pozas ; Manimani or Maniman, a fine bay in the mouth of the River San Miguel or Manimani ; Bahia-Honda, a port of the first class, 22 maritime leagues from Havana, with anchorage in some places for the largest ships : its spacious entrance is defended by a fort ; La Or tigosa, a port in the mouth of the River Santiago. In Mariel : Cabanas, a port of the second class, two leagues long and one wide, 16 maritime leagues west of Havana, with anchorage for frigates :^ it is divided into two parts by a peninsula called Cayo de Juan Tomas, on whose northern extremity is a fort defending the entrance ; Dominica, a port in the mouth of the river of that name ; Mariel (formerly Marien), an authorized portf of the second class, 12 maritime leagues from Havana, * That of Yarayal, near Mayari, has not crystallized since 1844. f Authorized ports, or ports of entry : 1st class, authorized for all foreign trade, inward and outward. 2d class, where foreign vessels are limited to the coasting trade as regards im« ports, but can export produce. 3d class, limited to the coasting-trade in vessels of the island. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 25 with anchorage for frigates : its entrance is somewhat obstructed by a shoal ; it is defended by a tower, and nearly at its bottom lies the town of the same name ; Mosquitos, an estuary in the mouth of the river of that name, and has a tower ; Guaijabon, a port, with tower ; Banes (formerly Bani), a port, eight leagues from Havana, with a tower and a small ham- let at the bottom ; Baracoa, in the mouth of the river of that name. In Santiago : Santa Ana, embar king-place, in the mouth of the River Bauta or Santa Ana, with a small town ; Jaimanita, a port with a hamlet. In Habana : Marianao, a port, in the mouth of the river of that name, with a tower and hamlet ; La Chorrera, a port of the fourth class, in the mouth of the river of that name, with a tower and hamlet ; La Habana (formerly Carenas), a port of the first order, with a narrow entrance, well sheltered and defended : it comprises the bays of Marimelena, Guasa- bacoa, and Atares, and has a bonded warehouse. In Guanabacoa : Coji- mar, a port, in the mouth of the river of that name, with a tower, and town of the same name ; Bacuranao, a port, with tower and hamlet, in the mouth of the river of that name ; La Boca, embarking-place, with hamlet, in the mouth of the River Guanabo ; Rincon de Sibarimar, em- barking-place, with hamlet ; Jaruco, with tower, and a hamlet called La Boca, in the mouth of the Jaruco River. In Jaruco : Santa Cruz, an anchorage, with hamlet, in the mouth of the river so called : it is danger- ous from the reefs that surround it ; Rota, a bay, for vessels drawing 10 feet ; Jibacoa-Rutinel, embarking-place, with hamlet, east of the River Jibacoa. In Matanzas : Canasi, an anchorage, with hamlet, in the mouth of the river of that name, and having warehouses toward the interior ; Puerto-Escondido, an anchorage, with warehouses, in the mouth of the river of that name ; Bacunayagua, an anchorage in the mouth of the river so called; Matanzas (formerly Yucayo), a great bay, deep enough for the largest ships : it is an authorized port of the first class, defended by a castle and three batteries, and is also the terminus of the Matan- zas Railroad ; Canimar, embarking-place, inland three leagues from the mouth of the river of that name, and whither is transported the merchan- dise of its great trade ; Camarioca, an anchorage of the fourth class, with a hamlet, in the mouth of the river of that name. In Cardenas : Siguapa or Las Guasimas, embarking-place in the most western part of the Bay of Cardenas ; Cardenas, a bay, and port of the second class, with the flourishing town of that name : it is also a railroad terminus ; Siguagua, embarking-place ; Jticaro, an anchorage, with a straggling hamlet and very long piers, supporting the branches of the Jucaro railroad ; Canal de San Mateo, with embarking-place in the Bay of Santa Clara, where considerable business is done : it is two leagues long ; La Palma, an in- land embarking-place, three leagues from the mouth of the river of that 26 Cuba : name, with a large trade ; La Teja, embarking-place, where the Sagua la Grande steamboat stops ; Santa Clara, embarking-place ; Ganuza, em- barking-place. In Sagua la Grande : Sierra-Morena, embarking-place half a league east of the mouth of the river of that name ; Pozas, em- barking-place and stopping-place of the steamer Jejen ; El Mallorquin, between Pozas and Sabanilla, whence it is intended to build a railroad to connect with that of Jucaro at Pijuan ; Sagua la Grande, an author- ized inland port of the second class, distant (by its windings) seven leagues from the mouth of the river of that name : it has a town which is the head of a district, and will soon be a railroad terminus ; Carahatas, embarking.place west of the river so called, and a league from its hamlet. In Villa Clara : Granadillo, an inland embarking-place, three leagues from the mouth of the Caonao Eiver. In San Juan de los Remedios : Tesico, a port in the great bay which also comprises Caibarien; Caibarien, a bay serving for the shipping trade of the authorized " dry port" of the first class, San Juan de los Remedios, distant three leagues south-west ; Mayajigua, a "dry port" whose shipping-place is the Estero Real. In Santo Espiritu: Los Perros, M anion, or Chambas, a port at the mouth of the river so called ; Moron or Laguna-Grande, an estuary, with a depth of eight or nine feet, formed by the island of Turiguano and the Cuban continent. In Puerto Principe : Santa Gertrudis and Santa Marcelina, embarking-places ; Sabana-la-mar, an embarking-place west of Caonao River ; Guanaja, a bay and authorized port of the second class, where the shipping trade of Puerto Principe is done : of this, however, it has lost a good deal since the completion of the Nuevitas railroad; Jigiiey, a bay of little depth in the mouth of the river of that name. In JYuevitas : Sabinal, an extensive bay, through the mouth of which, called Boca de los Carabelas, it is surmised that Columbus entered on the discovery of the island, October 28, 1492 ; Nuevitas (formerly Puerto Principe), is an authorized port of the second class, with an area of 57 square miles : the entrance is long and narrow, furnished with a light, and defended by fort San Hilario ; in the interior are several keys and the bays of Mayanabo, Pueblo-Viejo (the original site of Santa Maria de Puerto Principe), Guincho (where the railroad to Puerto Principe begins), Granadillas, Santa Rosa, and Santa Lucia, and in the south side is the town of Baga ; Nuevas-Grandes, a long and narrow estuary, with several keys within it. In Tunas : Manati and Malagueta, excellent ports. In Holguin : Puerto del Padre, very deep ; Jibara, an authorized port of the first class, with a fort and the town of Punta del Yarey ; Jururu ; Bariay ; Vita ; Naranjo, a small, but deep and excellent port : Sama, and Banes, good ports. In Cuba. -Nipe, the largest port in the island, having an area of 65 square miles ; its entrance is narrow and Physical, Political, and Industrial. 27 free; it is deserted, and its great extent, reaching almost to the horizon, prevents it from affording vessels a good shelter from the winds ; Mayari, an embarking-place within the port of Nipe, and three and a half leagues from the town of Mayari, which also is an embarking-place, with eight feet depth at high water ; Lebisa or Libisa and Cabonico, ports with only one entrance ; Cebollas, Cananova, and Yaguaneque, small ports ; Sagua de Tanamo, an inland port four leagues* from the mouth of the river of that name : it does an extensive trade in timber, tobacco, and cattle. In Baracoa : Moa, a port with a good depth and well sheltered, and having in front the key of that name ; Baracoa, an authorized port of the first class, with the city of the same name ; Mata, the most easterly port of the island. South Coast— In Baracoa: Jauco, an anchorage. In Saltadero: Baitiqueri, a port; Puerto-Escondido ; Guantanamo, a large bay (call- ed Cumberland Bay by the English) 20 leagues east of Cuba, and three leagues south of the town of Guantanamo : its entrance is 3,000 varas wide, and has a fort at the narrowest part of the interior : its area is 27 square miles, and contains a number of ports, among which are those of Joa and La Majagua; its trade, consisting in live-stock, cotton, and timber, is trifling. In Cuba: Baconao and Altares, bays; Juragua and Aguadores, anchorages east of Cuba, the latter defended by a bat- tery ; Cuba, an authorized port of the first class, of great extent, and affording good shelter : the entrance is narrow and defended by three castles, the Morro, Santa Catalina, and La Estrella, and a battery near the city, which is situated on the eastern margin, almost at the bottom of the port : it contains the keys Baton and Smith, f the port and hamlet of Socapa on the western shore, and the Punta de Sal, fronting Cuba, is the terminus of the Cobre railroad : it is an excellent port, well shel- tered, of smooth waters, and has a light. Cabanas, an anchorage with a battery: Nimanima, Quibijan, and Bincon de Sevilla, anchorages. In Manzanillo : Turquino ; Mota, a port south of peak Ojo de Toro ; Por- tillo; Mora; Limones; Manzanillo, a bay, authorized as a port, with the town of the same name, and defended by a fort. In Bayamo: Cauto del Embarcadero, an inland embarking-place, 25 leagues from the mouth of the Cauto Biver, and six from the city of Bayamo : it might be the New Orleans of the island, and the banks of the Cauto bear many cities, * Along the river, for in a straight line the distance is only three leagues. At the mouth there is five or six feet draft, and continues the same depth as far as the place called Los Cocos, two leagues from the town, and whence only lighters can navi- gate, and then only at tide. The north banks are covered with vegas of tobacco. t The latter is large and of good soil; it is the property of Dr. Eobert, and is inhab- ited by a few fishermen. 28 Cuba : if its mouth were not obstructed ;* Birama, a spacious bay, with swampy coasts, and salt fields in the vicinity. In Puerto Principe : Junco, an es- tuary, noticed only as a boundary in the maritime division ; Santa Cruz, a bay and authorized port, with the town of the same name, 22 leagues south of Puerto Principe ; Santa Maria, an inlet where the English pirate Morgan landed in 1666 ; Vertientes, an anchorage, which used to be au- thorized for shipping ; Sabana-la-mar, embarking-place near the southern boundary of the episcopal division. In Santo Espiritu : Sasa, an inland embarking-place on the River Sasa, authorized as a port, and having a town : it is seven leagues south of Santo Espiritu ; Algodonal, also an inland embarking-place on the same river, and a short distance from that of Sasa, but more generally used, as it admits vessels of greater draught ; Goleto or Caney, an estuary fronting the Key ofSasa. In Trin- idad: Manati, an anchorage at the mouth of the Agabama River; La Seiba, embarking-place ; Brujas, a bay ; Jobabo and Caballones, bays with swampy coasts ; El Masio, a port two and a half leagues east of the port of Casilda ; Casilda, a port authorized for shipping, and serving for the trade of the " dry port" of Trinidad, a league north of it ; Guaurabo, an anchorage, with a battery, at the mouth of the river of that name, navigable by skiffs for the space of a league, or within one mile of Trin- idad. In Cienfuegos : Jagua, the most magnificent port in the island, and perhaps in the world, with an area of 56 square miles : its entrance is narrow and protected by the fort of Los Angeles : within it are the bays of Jucaral, Majagua, and Guaicanamar, the Caleton de Don Bruno, and Cayos Carenas, Ocampo, Alcatraz, and Loco : it is an authorized port, and has the flourishing town of Cienfuegos on the northern extremity of its eastern coast, where the Villa Clara railroad commences ; even were it not " the best, nor is there, perhaps, its like in the whole world" (as expressed by Father Las Casas, who resided in its neighborhood), it is destined to be the chief port of the " Key of the New World," and is at the present day styled by foreigners The great port of the Americas: in the mouth of this port, and piercing the centre of its waters, is a spring of fresh water ;f Cochinos, a large bay with embarking-place at the bottom; Cazones, a bay at the south of the Zapata swamp; Mata- hambre, near the cape of that name ; La Broa, a vast bay, deep enough * Until 1616 this embarking-place was one of the chief commercial places in the island, as is proved by the remains of the ancient custom-house (the first in the island) ; but in consequence of a flood of the river in that year a great bar was formed at the mouth, shutting in over 80 vessels, and ruining its trade, for at present only vessels within 200 tons can enter, and that at high tide. t These phenomena occur at several places in the island, among others east of Los Jardines and Jardinillos, and in the Bay of Cochinos. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 29 for brigs. In Giiines : El Caimito, an estuary with a battery and ham- let ; El Rosario, embarking-place, with a hamlet at the mouth of the river of that name. In Bejucdl: Batabano, an anchorage and port at the mouth of a small draining channel ; it is situated a league from the town of the same name (although there is besides a small hamlet on the beach), and has an extensive pier, which is the terminus of the branch railroad of San Felipe ; it was visited by Columbus on his second voyage. In San Antonio : Guanimar, embarking-place at the mouth of the river of that name. In San Cristobal : Majana, a bay where the river of that name disembogues ; Sabana-la-mar, an estuary ; Dayaniguas, a bay be- tween the rivers San Diego and Los Palacios : it is the stopping-place of the steamers from Vuelta- Abajo, south coast ; it is provided with warehouses and an establishment for sea-bathing. In Pinar del Rio : Cortes, an in- land embarking-place, two leagues from the mouth of the San Diego ; El Gato, an estuary, with an inlet connected with a lagoon called the Masio, at the mouth of the Rio-Hondo ; La Coloma, embarking-place, with con- siderable trade, a river, port, and baths, six and a quarter leagues from Pinar del Rio ; Punta de Cartas, a roadstead with warehouses and baths ; Colon, an inland embarking-place one league from the mouth of the Coloma River, and five and a quarter leagues from Pinar del Rio : the entrance is picturesquely bordered by mangroves : there are ware- houses and baths; Noda, within the Bay of Galafre, a port, with a town in project; Garay, an anchorage and hamlet in the mouth of Arroyo-Puercos ;* Cortes, an inlet known as the Laguna de Cortes; Juan Claro, a bay between Cabo Corrientes and Cabo San Antonio. Bridges* — The principal ones are as follows : that of Diego Velazquez, built in 1850 over the rivulet of Mordazo ; it is entirely of hewn stone, and one of its arches is the greatest ever built in the island ; that of Puentes-Grandes, over the Almendares, old, but solid and built of wood with buttresses of mason-work ; that of Arango or Marinao, consisting of a single and small Gothic arch, but with broad terraces and high walls of mixed construction ; that of Las Casas (called so in memory of the worthy governor Las Casas), in the town of Arroyo Arenas, entirely of stone, with three equal elliptical arches, finished in 1849 ; that of Santa Cruz, a league from the preceding, built of mason-work and wood; the old bridge of Calabazar, with one medium-sized arch and four smaller ones in its spacious wall, which serves rather as a dyke when the river overflows; that of Arroyo- Jibaro, of a single stone arch, with wooden abutments ; that of Alcoy, on the Luyano River, on the road between * The name of Bailen, bestowed on it by the company owning: the steamers running to the Philippine Islands, is applied especially to their warehouse, which is situated, there. 30 Cuba : Havana and Guanabacoa, composed of three arches : it is finished with stone, and remarkable for its elegant and bold proportions ; that of Batten, in Matanzas, on the San Juan River, formed of two arches : also a fine stone work ; that of San Luis, on the same river, built of wood; that of Canimar, at the point where it is crossed by the railroad : built of wood, and with a single arch, but in bold style; that of Yayabo, in Santo Espiritu, of stone, with five arches, and well constructed.* Climate— Astronomical Climate.— According to the stated astro- nomical position, the island of Cuba is comprised in the third climate of hours, the longest day (21st of June) being 13 hours 24 minutes, and the shortest (21st December) 10 hours 42 minutes. The longest summer day in Havana is from 5.13 a. m. to 6.47 p. m., and the shortest from 6.39 a. m. to 5.21 p. m., from sunrise to sunset, exclusive of twilight. Physical Climate.— We shall indicate the atmospherical phenom- ena according to meteorological classification. Aerial Phenomena. — As in almost all the countries situated within the torrid zone, the air is less dense than in cold climates. The mean press- ure at Havana is 759.84 millimetres: the maximum, in January, 770 millimetres, and the minimum, in October, 747.f With regard to tem- perature, as the island of Cuba lies between 20° and 23° north latitude, it will be conceived that in the half comprised between 20° and 21° 30' it is lower than in the more northerly section. However, its proximity to the continent of America occasions frequent changes of temperature, and whenihe north-north-west wind is high, cold is experienced even at San- tiago de Cuba, situated in the most southern part, although much more sensibly on the northern coast, and especially on the highlands of the interior, where the nights and mornings are cool enough to require extra clothing, and even to render a fire agreeable. The average annual tem- perature of Havana is 25° centigrade : J the highest, 32° (observed June, * There are many others smaller, but well built ; and at present it is intended to build simple, solid, and economical bridges on the central road, and on that of Vuelta-Abajo. from San Luis de la Seiba to Pinar del Rio. t The barometer in the tropics attains the maximum between 9 and 9£ a. m., falls slowly until 12 m., and a little faster until 11 p. m., when it is somewhat lower than at 9 a. m. : it falls slowly through the night till 4 a. m., and reascends until 9 a. m. Of the two maxima, there is one greater than the other, which occurs at 9 a. m., and likewise of the two minima, one is least, and takes place at 4 a. m. This minimum of 4 a. m. has been found by Don Andres Poey, as neither Humboldt nor other authors make any mention of it. During the great hurricane of 1S46 the barometer fell as much as 730 millimetres. X 0° Cent. == 32° Fahr. 21° Cent. = 69.8° Fahr. 31° Cent. = 87.8° Fahr, 10° « = 50° « 25° " = 77° « 32° " = 89.6° « 14° " = 57.2° " 27° " = 82.6° " Physical, Political, amd Industrial. 31 1826), and the lowest, 10° (December, 1826) ;* or, deducting extremes, 31° and 14°. The average temperature of the warmest month was 27°, and of the coldest 21°. The average humidity of the atmosphere, as shown by the hair hygrometer, is 85° ; the maximum, in November and Decem- ber, being 100°, and the minimum, in April, 66°, or 97° and 75°, with- out the extremes. Winds. — North-easters, called brisas in the island, prevail at almost all seasons from 9 to 10 a. m. till sunset. They begin in the east- south- east and go as far as east-north-east, at which point they are termed brisa alta.f The most prevalent winds, when electrical discharges occur, are the south and south-south-west. Their duration is very variable, but they rarely last longer than a day, and occur 30 to 40 times during the year. The west and north-west winds are unfrequent, and always accompanied by rain. The northers, occurring from September to March, usually last two days> subsiding on the third, and blow six or eight times a year. They are regularly preceded by the south wind, which, veering to the west, causes some showers before the norther sets in. Wind- spouts or whirlwinds are of frequent occurrence during the dry season ; sometimes, although seldom, doing injury to the plantations. Water- spouts also are sometimes seen. Aqueous Phenomena. — The dew falls very copiously, especially during the dry season, but chiefly in December and January. Fogs also occur principally in the season of drought. The rain has so fixed and definite a period as to determine the seasons, which are divided into two, viz., the rainy season and the dry season, or season of northers. The first com- mences between May and June, and ends in November, being most active in September and October ; the average number of rainy days at Havana is 102, and the extremes for several years 185 and 75 days ; 22 days is the maximum for a month, and 2 days the minimum. The average fall of rain at Havana is 1 ,029 millimetres ; the most, recorded for a year, is 50 inches 6 lines, and the least 32 inches 7 lines. The most for a month (August) 11 inches, and the least (November and December) 2 lines. The average of the most rainy months shows 6 inches 4 lines, and of the least 1 inch 4 lines. In the interior of the island 133 inches of rain have * Don Antonio Eobledo observed in 1S01 a minimum temperature of zero (Eeaumur, or 32° Fahr.) in the interior of the country. Don Francisco Lavallee declares that in Trinidad, among the mountains, the mercury falls to freezing- poinc on cold nights, among which he instances the 13th of February, 1S41. In Madrid, during the summer of 1853, it is stated that Eeaumur's thermometer indicated as high as 35°, equal to 110£-° Fahrenheit, t At Santiago de Cuba the south wind is termed brisa (which means north-east wind), because, coming from the sea instead of the land, as is the case at other points of the north coast, it is cool and agreeable. 32 Coba: fallen in one year, of which 57 inches fell during the most rainy month, there „ no notice of snow having fallen, tat it hails almost every year r W e^2i:;i^r' parti0ularl7the — d "" ;: - ^ Electrical Phenomena.-^ average annual number of thunder- storms at Havana has heen 18. The greatest number during one year 32 and the least 7 The most during one month 13, while in others not one has occurred. They are most frequent in Jnne, July, August tTmeslftlr, ^ ^ th6 tW ° flrSt - named m<>nths th^dT^toZ^ tomes hterally ram down m the country. At Havana silent lightnings are common, appearmg almost every night from June to October, and W mally m July and August. Oftentimes they are seen in every quaX but most frequently in the south-east and south-west. These LhtninLs correspond to the second class, which, according to M. Aral are sucl as, instead of forming sinuous gyrations, almost without apparen e.ten embrace on the contrary a vast expanse of the horizon. They are neither a™, TV* ^"r th ° Se ° f *»■** °* "*** class, and gen Sly appear of a bnght red blue, or purple color, which are the most com 7 mon they dart from the centre of the clouds, encircling them with a vmdhgh On the night of 4th August, M. Poey counted durin! 10 nnuutes 110 of these lightnings in a south-westerly direction, and Ed* zag flashes.* => Meteors.-^The appearance of these phenomena is subject to a certain periodicity. At snch times they are abundant, and are occasionally seen as a luminous shower, like that of the night of November 12 to 13 1833 when a literal shower of fire was visible from Jamaica to Boston.f ' Prof Omstead is of opinion that the point whence these meteors issued was at a height of 800 leagues, and consequently beyond our atmosphere. Hum- boldt has assigned the following periods : April 22-25 July 17-^6 Au gust 10, November 12-14 and 28, 29, and December 6-12.1 We would here call the attention of meteorologists to the following fact, stated by our friend Don Andres Poey:|| this gentleman having observed the meteors during the nights of August 9-12, and November 11-15, 1849 and 1850 could not count more than 5 or 6 per hour, while on the same night of August 9, 10, 1850, there were counted at Yale College (United States) as many as 451 in the space of two hours and a quarter Al- though we have no notice of the fall of any aerolite in the island.no doubt can be entertained of it in view of the frequent app earance of fire * See » Anales de la Eeal Junta de Fomento, y Sociedad Econ6mica » Vol. iii No l" t See Professor Olmstead's fine article in Silliman's Journal, XXV t Cosmos, Vol. i., page 472. I "Anales," etc., cited in 1st note, Vol. iii., No. 1. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 33 balls and other similar phenomena, among which is the above-mentioned meteoric shower of November, 1833. Phosphorescence of the Sea. — The only data we possess on this point as regards the Island of Cuba are the result of observations made by Don Andres Poey, in 1850, 1851, and 1853, on the water within and without the harbor of Havana ; and the following are the conclusions of that gentleman :* 1st. The phosphorescence of the sea observed in the harbor of Havana seems to increase from the new moon to the first quar- ter, attaining its maximum intensity at the full, and diminishing in the second quarter, when it is less than in the first quarter ; consequently the first maximum is at the full moon, and the second at the new moon ; and the first minimum at the first quarter, and the second at the wane. 2d. The phosphorescence increases with the greatest high and low tides of January. 3d. It increases also during low water more that at high water. Respecting the temperature, M. Poey has observed not only a certain connection between it and the phosphoric intensity of the water, but also with the phases of the moon, when the sky is clear and that orb shines brightly. f Haloes, Mock Suns, etc. — Haloes and mock suns are of rare occur- rence, although both phenomena were observed in 18524 Solar rain- bows are very common : the contrary of lunar rainbows, of which a re- markable one was observed at Havana in 1849. Of the zodiacal light and aurora- borealis there is record of only two instances of the latter seen at Havana, the 14th November, 1789, and 17th November, 1848. The longest twilight lasts one hour, and the shortest three quarters of an hour. During one year the average of clear or alternately clouded clays may be set down at 285, and only 80 overcast. The maximum of cloudy days during any year has been 107, and the minimum 87. Cases wherein the 24 hours have elapsed with an entirely clouded sky are ex- ceedingly rare. || * Inedited memoir on the increase of phosphorescence of the salt-water of the harbor of Havana, in connection with the phases of the moon, the tides, and the temperature of the water ; and on the dynamic power of the waters considered as a producing cause of the temperature of seas and rivers. t 1st. Under a clear sky the temperature of the water was greater at the full of the moon than at her other phases, and the phosphorescence likewise was greater. 2d. Both increased at high water and at low water. 3d. They likewise increased more at low water than at high water. X See the notice of a mock sun given by the author of " Apuntes del Terremoto de Cuba de Agosto, 1852." || The want of a meteorological observatory in an agricultural country of the import- ance of Cuba is daily more sensibly felt. Its establishment was recommended to the Junta de Fomento by the author in 1818. In 1S50 our industrious and intelligent young 2* 34 Cuba: Earthquakes occur seldom in the western part of the island, but are inS "Tut eaSter Y art ' alth ° Ugh DOt S ° ™* S ° aS ^ " Antilles They are most common in the district of Santiago de Cuba where the shocks are successive.* S ' Diseases—From what has been said under the head of Physical Cli- Zul n"^ , m / erred ^^ thG tem P erat - of the island I mild, al- though humid and warm; and if the diseases arising from these last ations are on the contrary, of unusual occurrence, especially those in- obstot 7 mt T. COld ' " Vi ° lent PUlm0 ^ «»' -ute athri is, the climate we shall dmde the year into three periods, viz. : 1st from from M ° T J ; 'I" SeaS ° n ° f dr ° Ught aM ° f *» finest weathe ; 2d from May to September, a period of excessive heat, rain, and of mos atmospheric electricity ; 3d, from September to December, the season of STlw "? A , ndr6S P ° ey ' establi8hed one > but a temporary absence of that gentleman fiom the island occurring a year after, it was relinquished. At the authoring toe Messrs. Charlaxs and Fernandez, booksellers, No. 114 Obispo Street haTLpor ted a complete set of compared meteorological instruments of the first class ? * in 1 J, T, r , em f arkabIe earth< l uake «^ve been as follows : 11th February, 1675- one in 1682, which destroyed the cathedral; June, 1766; July, 1826- Mav 1949 »Z i „V all, those of the 20th August and 26th November, 1852, whS se^'toh IrT^eZ he globe, since, on the 19th of August, a shock was felt at Cervera (Spain) onZ 2oth here was a splendid eruption of Mount Etna ; in Austria a shock that ran. the bel the 18th it was felt at St. Domingo; the 25th in Georgia (United States) Sd The irf/ of September the inhabitants of Manilla experienced" the mos vS t earluake o their records. At Havana only two very slight shocks have been obse ved-on th e7t h of July, 177,, and 7th July, 1852. The effect of the earthquake of 20th lulst 1852 n the copper mines of San Jose, near the Villa del Cobre,! thus described by an ^e witness < I was m the gallery No. 132 (264 varas below the surface) of the Ln Juan shaf , d.rec ing the work of a gang of 21 men, when we heard a strange an feaX noise, as i the whole m.ne were collapsing. We then felt the earth rising and siS and were thrown irom one side of the gal.ery to the other. We seated ourselves onThe ground to escape instant death, for we considered death inevitable in t^e end The l.ghts tha were fixed to the walls were thrown down and extinguished, adJht total darkness to the horrors that involved us. The timbers of the vaults eS^ no.se l.ke that of a huge bonfire fed with green wood,andthe filtration of water gTluy mcreased. The mine seemed like a thickly-leaved tree laden with dew, and shafen "v the storm or by the hand of God. We observed a sulphurous smell and the g ei no.se of stones and earth falling from the upper to the lower cavities Altnou4To many of us together, we dared not speak, and I believe that we all imagined ou^elvs sepul tured forever. The noise lasted over four minutes, although the shocks had already ceased It was some time ere we mustered resolution to attempt our exil and as we ascended the ladders we had another shock, which would have fhrown u 'off J we had not been prepared for it. After great sufferings we finally emerged from the mme, expenenomg a degree of pleasurable relief not easily described. Our oppressed bosoms expanded like that rf a criminal reprieved at the foot of the gallows » Physical, Political, Ai-ru Ldustrial. 35 deluging rains and of the greatest atmospheric changes. During the first period the following complaints prevail : catarrhs and catarrhal fevers (due to the cold air and drizzling rain, usually occurring until February); ephemeral and intermittent fevers; sore throat, croup, rheumatism ; and, in some years, pleurisy, inflammation of the lungs, and eruptive fevers. During the second period the most predominant are — diarrhoea and other disorders of the digestive apparatus ; yellow- fever, small-pox, liver complaint, and, since 1850, Asiatic cholera and eruptive fevers ; at the same time instances offer of violent congestion, pulmonary inflammation, and pleurisy, likewise neuralgic and nervous affections. As regards fevers, the most prevalent at this season are the mucous, bilious, remittent (more or less dangerous), typhoid, and brain fevers. The third period comprises nearly the same diseases as the sec- ond ; however, the yellow-fever and the cholera begin to decline, and gradually disappear ; febrile disorders are somewhat aggravated in some years, those of a masked and pernicious character predominating ; dys- entery also is more common during this period, as also tetanus or locked jaw. Within a few years those cases of very acute consumption which sometimes destroy the patient in two months, are of very frequent oc- currence. Notwithstanding that it has been stated by some writers that the climate of Cuba is unfavorable to human life, many and remarkable instances of longevity can be cited, among them those of several Indians who died during the last century at the age of 180 and 120 years, many persons (principally colored) who had attained the age of 119 years, and a great number that have died at over 90 years of age.* Animals. — Mammalia. — The indigenous species still existing are the following : the almiqui, a carnivorous and nocturnal animal, feeding chiefly on insects, and having a long snout ; the jutia, of which two kinds are known, viz. : the congo (called quemi by the Indians), easily domes- ticated, and having a conical tail ; and the carabali (known to the ab- origines as guaminiquinar), inhabiting the mountains, and very un- tractable; its tail is long and bushy; and the cori, at present called curiel.f Besides these quadrupeds there existed, at the time of the * In 1847 was published in the Diario de la Marina a relation of well-authenticated cases of unusual longevity. According to the official statistics of 1S46 there were then in the island 29 persons over 100 years of age ; viz., 4 of 101, 6 of 102, 1 of 103, 4 of 104, 4 of 105, 3 of 106, 1 of 10T, 1 of 110, 3 of 111, 1 of 115, and 1 of 116. Our list of those now living includes a fisherman on the south coast who has completed his 112th year, and each of his two sons are over 80, and a distributer (!) of the Faro newspaper in 1S51 , who was more than 96 years old. t The early historians mention also the following mammiferous animals : the aire and the mohi or mohui, which are not known at the present day, although the latter is supposed to be the aguti; also a mute-dog, supposed by some to be the species of dog 36 Cuba : Conquest, both in this island and St. Domingo, other mammiferous ani- mals, such as the bat, of which about 20 species are known, some of them of the vampyre genus ; the whale, the dolphin, and the manati or sea-cow, which frequents the coasts and bays affording sub-marine springs of fresh-water, as at Jagua. The domestic animals introduced by the Spaniards were the horse, ass, camel, ox, sheep, goat, hog, cat, house-dog, deer, the rabbit, and the rat. The horses of the island (generally of medium size, as descending from the Andalusian breed, which is of Arabian origin) are strong, spirited, and swift, but lack the intelligent expression of their forefathers. The paso or amble is the most usual gait, and is natural to all horses foaled on the island. The ass is not common in the island, the climate being apparently unfavor- able to it ; it is imported more for the purpose of breeding mules than for the increase of the legitimate race, mules being much used for car- riage on all rural establishments. The camel, originally from Asia, has been introduced from the Canary Islands within a few years, but its usefulness, and probably its multiplication, is much impeded by the nigua or chigoe, an insect infesting its feet and almost preventing it from walking. The bovine race was introduced by Columbus on his second voyage ; it is fine, strong, and corpulent.* The hog was taken to St. Domingo the year following the discovery ; they increased so rapidly in that island, that it was found necessary to reduce their number, as they injured the sugar-cane plantations. The same was the case in Cuba, and Oviedo states that already, in his time, a vast number were running wild among the mountains. The hogs of Cuba have a wild ap- pearance, doubtless in consequence of the roving life they lead on the plantations where they are bred. The criollo or yard-hog is distin- guished from the gallego, or that bred on the petty farms. The former, which feeds chiefly on the berry of the palm, acorns (in some districts of the Vuelta-Abajo), and generally on wild fruit and maize, is small, active, and wild ; its flesh is exceedingly palatable, and has a peculiar flavor, extending to the fat, which is very scarce, and resembles in color alone the bacon of Europe, f The other is larger, and better adapted for called alco, or the washing-bear of Linnseus, called mapache in Mexico, and a species of canis, of the genera vulpes. At all events, these three species, together with the curiel, seem not to have been indigenous, but brought over from the continent before the discovery. Some modern writers mention another mammifer, under the name of tacuache, but Senor Poey, in his "Notes on the Natural History of the Island," denies that it ever existed. * In the district of Guaimaro, on the heights called Gaguita, is a pigmy breed of oxen without tails, which are of very strange appearance, and supposed to be verj ancient. t It is esteemed in Europe and the United States for these qualities. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 37 fattening, for which purpose it is almost exclusively raised. It is said that the criollo breed may be distinguished from the gallego by the greater roundness of the ribs of the former. The difference in flavor is attributed to difference of race. In mountainous and unpeopled districts there are a considerable number of wild hogs, called orejdnos. Sheep do not prosper much in Cuba. The race introduced by the colonists was the common or coarse-wooled In consequence of the wool being neglected, no use being made of it in so warm a climate, it has been observed that, when the animal has attained its full growth, it loses its wool, shedding it in crusts, when it is succeeded by a sleek coat of hair, like that of the goat; a change which also takes place in South America. Its flesh is not generally used, except in Havana and Cuba, and on some of the larger plantations, where the consumption is considerable. Its milk is used in some parts of the western department for making cheese. The goat is exceedingly useful, and the breed known as isleiia (from the Canaries) yields abundance of milk, which is availed of for children, and in some cases medicinally. The breed of goats, like that of hogs, is supposed to be a distinct race from that of Europe. It was introduced from the Canary Islands. The house-dog has multiplied exceedingly ; some have become wild, and do much damage to cattle. Many varieties have been introduced within the present century. Deer have been in- troduced within the century ; at first in the vicinity of Bahia-Honda, and afterward in Cuba, where the number is sufficient to supply the market daily. Rabbits were brought to America at a very remote period ; they do not multiply much, in consequence of the rats which destroy many of them. Rats (originally from Hindostan), introduced soon after the Conquest, have multiplied extraordinarily throughout city and country, doing great damage to the sugar-cane and the corn in the warehouses. The cat is of the European breed, and some have become wild. Birds.— The island contains a great number of species, over 240 hav- ing been enumerated.* Among the birds of prey are found the aura tinosa, belonging to the buzzard family, and which is so useful to public health; the cerniculo or kestrel, a veritable falcon, although small ; the caraira or Brazilian eagle ; and the well-known nocturnal birds of prey, the owl, the siju, and the siguapa. The order of smaller birds is still more abundant in species, and comprises the sinsonte, styled by naturalists polyglot orpheus, for its faculty of imitating all other ani- mals ; the pitirre or robin, whose persecution of the aura is so well * See the works published by D. Kamon de la Sagra, D. Juan Lembeye, and D. Andr6s and Don Felipe Poey. 38 Cuba : known. Many species of fringillae, among which are distinguished the negrito, the azulejo, the tomeguin, and others remarkable for the beau- tiful colors of their plumage;* the cao, representative of the crow family, and many others. There are also swallows, which spend the winter here and the summer in North Carolina; the chotacabras or goat- sucker, also called guaraiba, a nocturnal bird, with the bill cleft to the ears, rendering it the largest-mouthed of all birds. Finally, we should mention the pedorrera, beautiful for the multitude of its colors, and the martm-pescador (king-fisher) or zabullidor, both very common in the vicinity of the coasts. Of the colibri or trochilus family there are several, which vary in size, the smallest being little more than an inch in length. There are also several carpenter-birds (including the royal) ; the tocororo, a splendid bird, brightly and variously colored; the arri- ero ; the judia ; the cotorra or parrot ; the paroquet (periquito), etc., form the group of climbing -birds. Of gallinaceous birds are the com- mon turkey, the cock or rooster, with its numerous varieties, the Guinea- fowl, and a multitude of pigeons, among which are distinguished the tojosita, the torcaz, and that improperly called perdiz or partridge, which is blue-headed. Wading or long-legged birds are numerous about the coasts, rivers, and lakes; and we notice the frailecillo, called vodferus by naturalists for its loud cries ; the sevilla, with a spatular- shaped-bill; the cocos, one of which is of the ibis kind; various kinds of cranes and herons ; the flamingo, of a purple red ; and, lastly, the galhto, with great spurs on its wings, the widgeon, and the gallinuela. There are many species of aquatic birds : the saramagullon, remarkable for its upright position ; the pelican; the cor G a or sea-crow; the rabi- ahorcado or frigate-pelican; the rabij unco ; the sea-gull; the pampero, and many more. Besides the goose should be mentioned many kinds of ducks, among which are distinguished the yaguaza or wild-duck, and the huyuyo, of various and finely-colored plumage. Of the above mentioned the common fowl or rooster and the goose were introduced into America from Europe, Reptiles.— There are found in the island species of every order : there are turtles or tortoises, which sometimes attain a great size ; the caguama; the carey or shell- tortoise, abounding on the north coast, and formerly the object of a profitable fishery; and the jicotea or mud- turtle. Of the saurian family are two species of crocodiles, one of which (acutus) is vulgarly miscalled caiman or alligator ; the other (rhom- * la 1S50 a number of sr arrows, brought from Spain, were set loose in the gar.ien of one of the convents in the capital, and it is observed that they are multiplying rapidly. ' } * Physical, Political, and Industrial. 39 biferus) has only been found on the southern coast, especially on the island of Pinos and its neighborhood. Many species of lizards are also to be met with, of various form and size, among others that vulgarly called chamelion, although not belonging to that kind. There are two species of iguanas ; one small, about a foot in length, which is found in the vicinity of Havana, at the foot of the Loma del Castillo del Principe ; and the other, sometimes two yards long, abounds on the north coast and among the keys. Among the ophidians may be noticed the majd. (boa angulifer), and about twelve species of jubos, none of which are venomous. Several species of frogs and toads of great size, and a few other batrachians, complete the list of Cuban reptiles. Fish. — Among those of bony structure, which are exceedingly abund- ant in the island, the principal ones are the pargo, the rabirubia, the atun or tunny-fish (very rare), the aguja de paladar, the dorado, the masejuelo, the cherna or ruffle, and many others, comprising some that are dangerous to eat on account of the ciguatera or sickness that they cause; of these the most dangerous are the picuda,* the jurel, the morena-verde, the coronado, etc., although they are not all unwholesome, nor at all seasons. Among those of cartilaginous structure are many species of sharks : the shark proper is very dangerous and abundant ; the female is called tintorera, and the cub, cazon ; they have also been found fossilized, and teeth of the largest species known.f There are also the cornuda, the gata, the alecrin, provided with formidable teeth, and the saw-fish, so called from the form of the weapon it bears, although it is also improperly termed sword-fish.! The cornuda has a short and very broad head, comparable to a hammer, which name is therefore vulgarly applied to it. Insects. — The species common to Cuba, although not so fine and bril- liant as those of the Brazils and East Indies, are very numerous. Among them we notice the cocuyo or fire-fly, which abounds in May and June; a small insect (anobium bibliothecarium) which destroys books, and another that eats dry tobacco; the native bee, which produces dark- colored wax, and has no sting ; the Spanish or stinging-bee, brought from Florida in 1764, and producing white wax as fine as that of Venice. There are many species of ants ; among them the bibijagua, destructive to plants, and the common species introduced from Europe ; the come- * There are three species of picuda: the picuda, the picudilla, and the guaguanche; the last two are not considered unwholesome. t (Squalus carcharias.) We have seen two of these fossils; one found in digging a well in Guamutas, and the other in the neighborhood of Jarnco. % The true sword-fish is of the Mediterranean, and is rarel} 7 met with on these coasts, where neither the cod, the pollock, nor the bi>am are found. 40 Cuba : jen or tliermes, greatly destructive to wood ; the bed-bug (an exotic in- sect) has been introduced into the island as everywhere ; the nigua or chigoe, of the flea kind, which is also termed penetrans, from its habit of introducing itself under the skin of animals and frequently doing much injury ; the louse, and the flea ; a species of coccus, vulgarly termed guagua, introduced about 1833 : it has done very considerable damage to the orange, lime, and other trees. There are over 300 kinds of butterfly (chiefly indigenous), among which are remarkable the urania fernandina, most brilliantly colored, and commonly found at Cojimar ; the caterpillar develops itself on the nut-tree, called avellano de costa; the palomilla, which attacks the sugar-cane, is a nocturnal butterfly of the genera crambus. There are some 300 species of fly, some adorned with metallic spots ; one kind is improperly termed cantha- ride by the natives on account of its color, which is metallic, and very similar to the true cantharide or Spanish fly, which is a coleopterus ; more than 12 kinds of mosquitoes, comprising the corasi, the zancudo or common musquito, the jagiiey, the jejen, the guasasa, and the rodador. Of the spider family we notice the arana peluda or hairy spider, very venomous, but not mortally so. There are two kinds of scorpions, neither mortally venomous ; ticks abound in the country, and are very annoy- ing to cattle. There is a species of centipede, and another of manca- perro or dog-maimer. The moth, which destroys paper, is indigenous, and belongs to the genera lepisma. Of Crustacea there are several species, the most notable being the ajae, found at some distance from the coast; the cangrejo moro or Moorish crab; the gallo crab; thejaiba or soft crab; there are also large lobsters, and both salt and fresh- water shrimps. Among molluscs are the pulpo or cuttle-fish, and cala- mar or sea-sleeve, of many kinds. There are many testacea, both uni- valve and bivalve (commonly called shells and conches), the longoron being distinguished among the latter; two kinds of clams, and the oyster, which is small but finely flavored. At the mouth of the Miel River (Baracoa) are found mother-of-pearl shells. Sigua is the name of a univalve mollusc of the genera turbus ; it is very indigestible. Among zoophites are many herizos or urchins, and star-fish ; aguamares (vulgarly aguamalas), which comprise the medusa abounding in the harbor of Havana ; many polypi, living congregated in polypedes, and exuding a calcareous matter the same as the gorgoneas which form the sea-fan and sea-broom. There are corals of commercial importance, and many sponges on the northern keys. The rivers contain several species of the leech. Vegetables.— The following are arranged in the order of their most general application : Physical, Political, and Industrial. 41 Precious Woods.— Mahogany,* caobilla, cedar, lignum vitce or guayacan, ebony (royal and coal), white and black curbano, carey, granadillo, hayajabico, naranjo, yaiti, and cafe. Building Timber.— Acana, jijon (resembling mahogany), almendro or almond-tree, quiebra-hacha, carne de doncella, chicharron, jaimiqui, jiqui, tengue, maboa, frijolillo, sabina, guao, yaba, yaya, black and white oak, pitch-pine, evergreen oak (only in Vuelta-Abajo), joc(ima, ocuje, moruro, seiba (for canoes), royal palm (for boards), majagua, strong and elastic ; barza, guiro, etc. Plants for other Useful Purposes.— Dagame, yagruma, ateje, brasilete, fustic or dyewood (largely exported from the east of the island), mangrove, jiquilete (yielding a blue dye), cavalonga, bambu or bamboo, also called wild cane; giiin, aguedita, febrifuga, almacigo or mastich, algarrobo or locust, jaboncillo, daguilla, copal, black pepper, cinnamon, drago (dragon-tree), nralberry, grape, many sorts of palm, comprising the royal palm (one of the most beautiful and useful trees in the island), the cocoanut palm (growing wild at Baracoa), the corozo. the manaca, the cana, the yarei, the palma-barrigona or big-bellied- palm, the jata, the miraguano, and the exotic date-palm. Medicinal Plants.— Ateje comun, cedar, arraigan, caicimon, yer- bahedionda, aguedita, escoba-amarga, malva (mallows), malva blanca sabia-cimarrona (wild sage), ociije, rabo de zorra, guaguasi, mancei, aji-guaguao (green pepper), bija (anatto), yagruma hembra, picapica (cow-itch), apasote (basil), gramas (panic-grass), lenatero, almacigo (mastich), pimienta (black pepper), guira cimarrona, yedra (ivy), bledo (strawberry-blite) comun y carbonero, sanguinaria (knot-grass), yerbabuena cimarrona (wild mint), sandoval, verdolaga (purslain)i caimito, romerillo bianco (white rosemary), zarzaparilla, raiz dp China (China-root), calaguala, etc. Poisonous Plants.— Manzanilla, pini-pini, yaba, cabo dehacha. jaba- cana; camagiiey and prieto (vines) ; yuca agria (when not subjected to fire), the seed of the poma rosa, and tobacco. Fruits.— Among those indigenous to the island are distinguished the delicious pine-apple, the sweet and aromatic anon, the nispero or mess- apple, also called zapote ; the acana, very similar to the preceding ; the caimito, caimitillo, ciruela or plum, guanabana or sour-sop, mamey Colorado, mamoncillo, papaya (papaw), guayaba cotorrera (guava), of * The mahogany tree is exceedingly abundant in the island, and in the eastern part the wood is of as line a quality as that of Hayti. In 1S08 one was cut down at Ja-ua .or the Principe de la Paz which measured over 10 feet in diameter, and in 1S50 the author saw one at Hanabana measuring 3£ Cuban varat in diameter. Several cedars have also been found of nearly the same dimensions. 42 Cuba : the kind most suitable for preserves ; mamon, maranon, uva caleta (a grape), mora (mulberry), platano (plantain), agua-cate (alligator-pear), hicaco (cocoa-plum), zapote de culebra, sour orange, lime, jobo, mamey amarillo or de St. Domingo, etc. Among the exotic fruit are the water- melon, the musk-melon, fig, strawberry, the Spanish grape (there being a native species, but very small and sour), the Peruvian guava, canistel, pomegranate, sweet or China orange, and cajel orange; toronjas or shaddocks, lima or sweet lemon, the French lemon, gooseberry, date, corojo, cautel, etc. Mineral*.* — Metallic Substances. — Gold has been found in the district of Pinar del Rio; at las Minas, in Bacuranao district; at Canasi ; in the rivers Damuji and Caonao, which empty into Jagua Bay; in those of Sagua la Grande and Agabama, near the Escambray Mountain ; in the mines of San Fernando (worked by the early inhabitants) ; in the mountains of Trinidad ; in the Saramaguacan ; in the hato of Monacos, and those of Holguin, Bayamo, and Nipe ; in the Mayari River (of 18 to 20 carats) f and in the Caney River. Silver: according to history and the investigations of Don Jose Escalante, silver has been found in the mines of San Fernando, in the Escambray Mountains ; it is also to be found at Pinar del Rio, Canasi, and Yumuri. Copper of superior quality abounds in all the island, being one of the chief exports from Santiago de Cuba. Iron is abundant at Vuelta- Abajo; in the Trinidad and Escam- bray Mountains ; very abundant in the mountains of the Pinar, south of Mayari, and generally throughout the island, but no mine is worked. Lead-mines have been found in several places but not explored. Stony Substances. — Amianthus (silicate) abounds in the mountains between Trinidad and Cienfuegos ; in those of Escambray it is of fine quality ; also in the Guanabacoa Mountains. Loadstone, or magnetic oxide of iron, found in Guanabacoa ; among the mountains of Trinidad * The author is indebted for the greater part of the matter of this article to his learned friends Messrs. Velazquez, Auber, Poey, Lembeye, Lanier, and especially to Dr. Cayetano Aguilera, Professor of Chemistry of the Eoyal University, who has made excursions through the western department of the island, with the sole purpose of studying its geological constitution, and to collect minerals. In the Guia de Forasteros of the present year, 1853, have been published some notes on the mines registered by the royal treasury in 1852. t In the Memorias de la Real Sociedad fleonomica for 1839 (page 354), is a note on the situation of a gold-mine at Mayari. With regard to the amount of gold ex- ported from the island by the discoverers, we refer to Sr. Sagra's work, wherein he says, "From these simple notes there results a total of $260,000 worth of gold received from the Island of Cuba from 1815 to 1S34, but as the records of a great many other remittances are wanting, this sum can only be considered a minimum." We recom- mend the perusal of Sr. Sagra's article on Geology and Mineralogy, which affords all the information that can be had on those subjects. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 43 is one composed of this mineral ; in the Jaragua Mountains, and in all those of the eastern part of the island, there being a great quarry of it near the Caney. Coal: at Consolacion del Norte, Mantua, Bahia- Honda, Bacuranao, Guanabo, Canasi, Camarioca, Matanzas, Cardenas, Palmarejo, etc. Crystallized chalcedony: at Guanabacoa ; and in the district of Cienfuegos rock crystal (hyaline quartz) abounds. Marble is found in several parts of the island, but abundantly, and in greater variety, in the island of Pinos, at Trinidad, San Antonio, San Diego de los Banos, Bahia-Honcla, Guane,* and Baj a, comprising statuary marble of superior quality, but scarce ; also stalactite, snow-white, and so fine and transparent that it is equal to alabaster. Granite : in the moun- tains of Vuelta-Abajo ; in the vicinity of Havana ; in the mountains of Trinidad, Escambray, and Baracoa, and in the island of Pinos ; also near Santiago, where it is similar to that of the Escorial. Rock crystal (hyaline quartz) abounds throughout the island. Limestone: very plenty, and frequently found crystallized as spar. Gypsum is found of bad quality; although at a place called Cayo de los Perros, in the district of San Juan de los Remedios, it is compact and sufficiently pure. Carbonated lime : there is a fine bank of it, about three leagues wide and six long, at the origin of the Guines River. Sand and refractory clay : the town of Cano is founded on a bank of this mineral ; it is a species of pumice-stone, in transition to yellow sand, and serves exceedingly well for the manufacture of fire-brick. Slate or schist is found throughout the island, especially on the Guacamayas River, district of Las Pozas, where it is of the best quality. The town of Caney is founded on a rock of white schist. Sulphate of Baryta or heavy spar : to be found in the eastern department. Serpentine : in Guanabacoa and the eastern department, where there are both kinds. The town of Las Pozas rests on a bank of serpentine. Inflammable Minerals. — Asphaltum (called chapapote) is very abundant, especially at Guanabacoa, Mariel, and Bahia-Honda, between the Haciendas la Barbara and Maniabon, 14 leagues from Holguin, also on the Hacienda San Antonio, 8 leagues from Nuevitas. Rocksalt: there is a mine of it in Bacunayagua.f Mineral Waters. — Cuba possesses many of the finest in the world, but, unfortunately, the majority have not been analyzed. Among the most interesting, are those of San Diego de los Banos, which are sul- * At this place and its vicinity are found almost all varieties of fine marble ; and also beautiful grottos containing gigantic stalactites of the most fanciful forms. t Sr. Aguiler'a has found in the vicinity of Las Pozas blood-red jasper, cornelian, agate, feldspar, quartzose sand, magnetic pyrites, lignite or fossil coal, compact gra- phite, foliaceous antimony, and bismuth and tellurium. 44 Cuba: phurous, as analyzed by Messrs. Estevez, Casaseca, and Sanchez ;* San Juan de Contreras, sulphurous ; Charco-Azul, sulphurous ; Copey, ni- trous ; Almendares (see analysis in the sequel) ; Guanabacoa, of many kinds ; Santa Maria del Rosario ; Madruga, similar to those of San Diego, but imperfectly analyzed ; San Miguel, at the foot of Loma de San Juan, similar to those of San Diego ; San Pedro and Santa Ana ; Ciego Mon- tero, six leagues from Cienfuegos, sulphuro-gaseous ; Banos de la Bija, eight and a half leagues from Cienfuegos ; Mayajigua ; Guadalupe ; Camujiro; Dumanuceos; and Brazo-fuerte ; and in Pinos island those of Santa Fe.f In the hamlet of Cantarrana there is a well of mineral water highly recommended for dropsy and other diseases. POLITICAL AND INDUSTRIAL GEOG- RAPHY. Population. — The absolute population of the island appears to be 1,050,000^ of which 1,009.060 are stationary, and the rest transitory. Of the former, 501,988 are white, 176,647 free-colored, and 330,425 slaves ; and supposing the 40,940 constituting the floating population to be white, we have a total of 542,928 white and 507,072 colored. The former comprise about 90,000 from Spain, 25,000 from the Canary Islands, 3,000 French, 1,000 English, and 3,000 Americans and of other nations, so that the number of native whites is over 400,000. With re- gard to the relative population, as the island, together with its adjacent territories, has an area of 3,973 square leagues, the proportion is 254 inhabitants per square league, or 29 per square mile. Consequently, the Island of Cuba is more thickly populated than 20 of the 31 United States of North America (Florida has but one inhabitant per square mile) ; than each one of the Spanish-American States ; than the Brazils ; and than Sweden and Norway. Religion.— The Roman Catholic and Apostolic is the only form of worship tolerated in the island. Territorial Division?.— They may be reduced to four classes, viz., natural, topographical, vulgar, and administrative. * See the Memoria on these baths, published by Sr. Sanchez, Havana, 1851. t According to the analysis made by Sr. Caro, and published in the '• Bevista de Ja Havana," the waters of these baths belong to the order of saline excitants, and must, therefore, possess important therapeutical properties. That gentleman is occupied in analyzing other waters in the island. I Besides the causes that in all countries oppose statistical perfection, there are others peculiar to those where slavery exists, for which reason no one can doubt that the population of the island is 1,500,000, and that of Havana 180,000. Physical, Political, akd Industrial. 45 The Natural or Physico-geographical are two : continent, as the island is usually termed ; and adjacent keys, which comprises the islands and keys belonging to the Island of Cuba and surrounding it. When the island is spoken of in a general sense, the adjacent islands and keys are also included. Topographically, the island is divided into cities, villas, towns, vil- lages, hamlets, and rancherias, or hut-groups ; and besides, into private possessions, severally classified as hatos, corrales* potreros, ingenios, cafetales, and sitios de labor or estancias, the description of which will be found under the head of Agriculture. At the present day are styled cities,* Havana, Cuba, Matanzas, Puerto Principe, Trinidad, Ba- yamo, Holguin, Baracoa, Santiago or St. Jago, Bejucal, Jaruco, Santa Maria del Rosario, Nuevitas, and Nueva Paz (the two last without ayun- tamientos or corporations). Villas, are Guanabacoa, Giiines, Santo Espiritu, San Juan de los Remedios, Villa Clara, Cienfuegos, and San Antonio de los Baiios, while measures are being taken to obtain the same title for Pinar del Rio, San Cristobal or Candelaria, and Cardenas. Navigators divide the island into Windward and Leeward, or east and west of the meridian wherever any one may be, but especially that of Havana. Vulgar Divisions. — In the first place are the well-known divisions of Vuelta-Arriba and Vuelta-Abajo, generic terms applied to the terri- tory on the east or west of the person using the term wherever he may be. Thus, for instance, the jurisdiction of Santo Espiritu is in the Vuelta-Abajo as regards the resident of Puerto Principe, but contrary- wise, or in the Vuelta-Arriba, relatively to the resident of Havana. However, in speaking of the island in general, by Vuelta-Abajo is un- derstood the territory comprised between the rivers Sierra Morena and * At the present day the distinction between the terms City and Villa may be deem- ed a purely honorary one ; but formerly, the first was applied to those communities, usually large, which, by their importance, historical associations, or especial services, obtained privileges or supremacy over the rest. The Villas also enjoyed marked pre- eminences (though not as many as the cities), among which was the privilege of having their own proper boundaries and jurisdictions. Seignories or manors were also held in the island by the founders of the villas of Bejucal, Santa Maria del Rosario, Jaruco, and San Antonio de los Banos, but were suppressed in 1811, although some continued in fact until a few years ago. Pioeblos, or towns, are termed all communi- ties of 50 houses and upward, which do not possess the title of either villa or cily; aldeas, or villages, assemblages of 12 to 50 houses; easerios, or hamlets, such as fall short of 12 houses; and rancherias, those places where there are ranchos, or huts, especially those of fishermen on the coasts or runaways in their haunts. As these clas- sifications in this island depend more on the number of houses than of inhabitants, it is well to state that all houses within 500 metres of the main group are considered as belonging to it. 46 Cuba : Hanabana as far as Cape San Antonio ; but in speaking of that territory alone, the term Vuelta-Abajo is applied to that part lying east of the meridian of Havana. As applied to distinguish a certain class of tobac- co, the term especially comprises the territory between the San Diego river and Cape San Antonio, producing the best tobacco in the world, universally known as of the Vuelta-Abajo. Partidos de afuera (outer districts), or Los Partidos, is applied to the territory between the merid- ians of Havana and San Cristobal ; and Partidos de adentro (inner districts) to that comprised between the meridian of San Cristobal and Cape San Antonio.* Partidos de los Llanos (districts of the plains) is the denomination sometimes given to the territory comprised between the jurisdictions of Cardenas, Sagua la Grande, Cienfuegos, Villa Clara., and southern part of Matanzas, Tierr a- adentro (meaning the interior country) is another expression commonly used in Havana to designate the territory comprised between the jurisdiction of Cienfuegos and those of Puerto Principe and Nuevitas, both inclusive, and even at times ex- tended farther east unto the territories of the jurisdictions of Tunas, Holguin, Manzanillo, and Bayamo, although some persons, more proper- ly, exclude the sea-ports.f Territorio de las cuatro Villas. — Under this name used to be comprised the territory corresponding to the jurisdic- tions of Trinidad, Santo Espiritu, Remedios, and Santa Clara, but since the last has been divided into the jurisdictions of Cienfuegos and Sagua la Grande, such a denomination is improper, particularly as Cienfuegos now ranks as a villa and Trinidad as a city. Administrative Division. — The six principal branches of administra- tive science have in the island their determinate territorial divisions, but without suitable unity ; however, measures are being taken to se- cure this end, which is the basis of all good administration. Political Division. — The political territorial division is as follows. The entire territory of the island constitutes a single province, under the command of a superior political governor and vice-royal patron, and is subdivided into three governments, viz., that of Havana, in charge of the superior political governor, that of Matanzas, and that of Cuba, which also has annexed the vice-royal patronate, without dependence in this branch on that of Havana. The dividing line of the government df Matanzas extends from the port of Canasi to the confluence of the rivers Negro and Gonzalo with the Hatiguanico Biver, then following the course of the Gonzalo till near the lagoon of Tesoro, whence it runs * Noda : — notes published in the " Guia de Forasteros" (Stranger's Guide) for 1841 and '42. Notes on the Tobacco of the Island of Cuba, 1S52. t See the excellent Dictionary of Cuban phrases by Don Ksteban Pichardo. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 47 toward the north with various windings as far as Point Camacho, leaving the town of Corral-Falso in the jurisdiction of Cardenas, and that of Aguacate in the jurisdiction of Jaruco. The dividing line between the governments of Havana and Cuba is the same that divides the arch- bishopric and the bishopric, and the military departments and intend- ancies.* The governments are divided into petty or inferior districts, although when of great extent, like those of Havana and Cuba, they are subdivided into lieutenant-governorships, comprising several petty districts. The civil and rural wards and the petty districts are sub- divided into quarters. The civil wards are in charge of celadores, or commissaries of police ; the rural wards and petty districts are com- manded by district-captains, and the quarters by patrol -corporals. There are, besides, four small districts styled colonies, subject to the immediate command of a military officer called director, but dependent on the government in whose territory they are situated, viz., the colonies of Reina Amalia or Nueva Gerona (on the island of Pinos), of Santo Domingo, and of Caibarien, dependent on the government of Havana, and that of Moa on the government of Cuba.t The government of Havana has in immediate dependency the districts or lieutenant-gov- ernorships of Pinar del Rio, San Cristobal, Bahia-Honda, Mariel, San Antonio, Santiago de las Vegas, Bejucal, Guanabacoa, Santa Maria del Rosario, Giiines, Jaruco, Cardenas, Sagua la Grande, Cienfuegos, Santa Clara or Villa Clara, Trinidad, San Juan de los Remedios, and Santo Espiritu.J The government of Matanzas has dependent on it, politically, no lieutenant- governorship, but, militarily, it has the lieutenant- governorship of Cardenas. On the government of Cuba depend the jurisdictions or lieutenant -governorships of Puerto Principe, Nuevitas, Tunas, Bayamo, Manzanillo, Holguin, Jiguani, Guantanamo, and Baracoa. Ecclesiastical Division. — The ecclesiastical administration of the island is divided between two dioceses — the archbishopric of Cuba and the bishopric of Havana. || The boundary line extends from the mouth of the river Yana, opposite the eastern extremity of Turiguano island, to within a mile and a half east of Sabana-la-mar embarking-place, on the south coast, dividing the island nearly through its centre. Both dioceses are divided into outer vicarages and curacies, and the arch- * See the royal decree of 21 October, 1S53. t This last has no existence in fact, as it contains but two inhabitants. t The island of Pinos is a colony and district of the jurisdiction of Havana. |l Subject to the archbishopric, besides the bishopric of Havana, is that of Porto Rico. 48 Cuba : bishopric and bishopric are respectively superior one to the other in cases of appeal. Judicial Division.~The judicial branch of affairs is subject to a court of judicature residing at Havana, and styled Real Audiencia Pretorial de la Habana.* Military Division.-The territory of the island constitutes a captain- generalship, and is subdivided (since 1851) into two departments— the western and eastern.f Each department is under the authority of a commandant-general, and is subdivided into sections and command- ancies of arms; each section is in charge of a chief, and in every com- mandancy of arms there is a subaltern judge with limited faculties. The boundary line of both departments is the same ecclesiastical boundary between the two dioceses. With the title of General Commandant of the Cantons, there is a chief in the jurisdictions of Trinidad, Villa Clara, Kemedios, Santo Espiritu, Cienfuegos, and Sagua la Grande, with casual exercise of authority, and immediately dependent on the captain- general. There is also one of the same class in the Mariel. Treasury Division.— With regard to the royal treasury, the island constitutes a delegated general superintendency, and is subdivided into two intendancies, viz., that of Havana and that of Cuba, each subject to an intendant under the direction of the superintendent-general, and with the character and attributes of an intendant of the army. The two intendancies are subdivided into delegations and administrations, and these into receptories. The lieutenant-governors are delegates of the districts. ^ Maritime Division.— -The Havana constitutes a naval station, the jurisdiction of which extends to the island of Porto Rico. It is subject to a superior commandant, who is the captain-general, and a general commandant, whose authority is vested in an officer of high rank. The maritime division of the island was established about the end of 1828, * There was another at Puerto Principe, but by royal decree of 21 October, 1853, it was suppressed, and the territory, affairs, and archives were incorporated with that of Havana. The said Audiencia, or judiciary court of Puerto Principe, is the same that was established in 1511 at Santo Domingo, and in consequence of the revolution in that island, was transferred hither in 1800. The Meal Audiencia, Pretorial of Havana was installed in 1839. t From 1826 to September, 1851, the island was divided into three military depart- ments, the western, central, and eastern, the dividing line between the first two being -he eastern limits of the lieutenant-governorships of Sagua la Grande and Cienfuegos, and between the last two the eastern limits of the lieutenant-governorships of Nuevitas and Puerto Principe. In said monlh of September, 1 851, was established, ad interim, Ihe present division into two departments, and sanctioned by her majesty by royal de- cree of October 21, 1853. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 49 dividing the . territory and adjacent islands into five provinces, viz., Havana, Trinidad, San Juan de los Remedios, Nuevitas, and Cuba, whose capitals are the towns of those names. The provinces are subdivided into districts, and these into adjutancies, subdelegations, and " alcaldias de mar." The province of Havana is under the immediate authority of the commandant-general of the station, and the other provinces are in charge of commandants or graduated officers. The districts are com- manded by adjutants, and the subdelegations by alcaldes de mar. The province of Havana comprises all the territory, islands, and shoals lying west of a line that may be supposed to run along the following points : €anal del Pargo, Rio de la Palma, Artemisal, Punta Don Cristobal, and €anal del Rosario, and is divided into the districts of Havana, Regla, Matanzas, Cardenas, Batabano, Pinar del Rio, Mariel, Bahia-Honcla, and Mantua. The limits of the province of San Juan de los Remedios are the following : Canal del Pargo, Rio de la Palma, Artemisal, the central highway toward the east, passing by Alvarez, Esperanza, Villa Clara, Santo Espiritu, Jicotea, and Ciego de Avila, whence it proceeds in a straight line to Punta Curiana, and thence between the islands called Cayo Coco and Cayo Romano (the latter falling to Nuevitas). It is divided into the two districts of Remedios and Sagua la Grande. The limit of the province of Trinidad is a line supposed to run along the fol- lowing places : Canal del Rosario, Punta Don Cristobal, Artemisal, the central highway from that point to Puerto Principe, thence in a right line as far as Estero del Junco, and thence beyond Canal de Cuatro Reales. It is divided into the districts of Trinidad, Santa Cruz, and Jagua. The boundary line of Nuevitas passes by the following points : the channel be- tween the islands of Cayo Coco and Cayo Romano, Punta Curiana, San ■Geronimo, the high road running by Puerto Principe, Las Tunas, Ba- yamo, and Jiguani ; thence it proceeds to Santo Cristo, Cayo del Rey and Mayari, and issues through the mouth of the Port of Nipe. It is di- vided into the districts of Nuevitas, Guanaja, and Jibara. The province ■of Cuba comprises the remainder of the island, and is divided into the districts of Cuba, Baracoa, and Manzanillo. The island of Porto Rico is another province of the naval station of Havana. €©veraiiieflti — The Island of Cuba is subject, in all branches of the administration, to the authority of a president of the royal court of judicature {real audiencia) , who is also the superior civil governor, captain-general, superior commandant of marine, superintendent of the treasury, vice-royal patron, and vice-royal protector of public instruc- tion ; although the ecclesiastical, naval, judicial, and financial depart- ments also have especial chiefs of high rank, as has been stated under the head of Territorial Division. 3 50 Cuba : Laws. — By the additional article of the constitution of the Spanish monarchy of 1887, the Island of Cuba is subject to especial laws, pend- ing the formation of which' are in force the laws, royal decrees, regula- tions, and orders dictated by the supreme government of the nation, and communicated to the island. Next in order, as regards political and judicial affairs, are the especial resolutions circumscribed to determinate localities, such as the municipal regulations or statutes of the corpora- tions, the resolutions of the courts of judicature, and the government edicts (Bandos de Buen-Gobierno), especial regulations, etc. Then come the " Ordenanzas de Intendentes de Nueva Espana" (published in 1786, and reformed in 1803) , commanded to be complied with in this island as far as adaptable ; several articles of which are in force, particularly those relating to the treasury department. Then succeed in authority the body of laws entitled, " Recopilacion de las Leyes de Indias" published in 1681. In the military department, the ordinances of the army of the Peninsula succeed the most recent sovereign dispositions. As regards commerce, the " Codigo de Comercio" is followed, with laws, modifica- tions, and the ley de enjuiciamiento for mercantile transactions. For the ecclesiastical department, is the " Sinodo diocesano de Cuba," ap- proved in 1682, and which has recently been republished with additions. In the naval department are in force the " Ordenanzas Generales de Marina" for 1748 and 1793, and the " Ordenanza de Matriculas." After the last sovereign dispositions, and those of the before-mentioned legal bodies, the codes promulgated for the Peninsula exercise force of law in the following order : Novisima Recopilacion, Nueva Recopilacion, Leyes de Toro, Ordenamiento de Alcala, Fuero Juzgo, and lastly, the celebrated Leyes de las Partidas. Ethnography. — The races of inhabitants peopling the island are the Caucasian, the African, the copper-colored or American, and the Mon- golian. The Caucasian proceeds from Europe, and although repre- sented by a less number than the African, it surpasses, as everywhere, all the others in intelligence and civilization. As the island has be- longed to Spain from its discovery (for its possession by the English was almost limited to the district of Havana, and lasted but one year), the races inhabiting the Peninsula naturally have, been, and continue to be, those constituting the white population of the colony; besides, the system of commercial monopoly that existed until the end of the last century has contributed not a little to prevent the settlement of other branches of the Caucasian race of Europe. History assures, that at the commencement of the Conquest none but Castilians were allowed to come to America ; but at present, the industrious Catalans or Catalo- nians, and the hard-working Isleiios (islanders of the Canaries), are Physical, Political, and Industrial. 51 found to preponderate throughout the island. As regards foreigners, the rural districts of the jurisdiction of Cuba, of Saltadero, Giiines, San Antonio, and the south of Mariel were, at the beginning of the present century, peopled by industrious and intelligent Frenchmen, refu- gees from the revolution in St. Domingo, who gave a powerful impetus to agriculture, especially the cultivation of coffee. The Anglo- Saxon race has somewhat extended itself in Matanzas, Cardenas, and Nuevitas and Baga, which they colonized. Next in order are the Germans, who apply themselves entirely to commerce by wholesale, and next, the Italians, in small number. The African or Ethiopian race was intro- duced in 1524, shortly after the conquest of the island, to serve as slaves. Notwithstanding the humane treatment that it has received, its propa- gation has not corresponded to the analogy of the climate with that of its own country ; so that, in spite of considerable and constant importa- tions until a few years back, the present number of the race does not appear to amount to much more than half a million. Those coming from Africa are termed bozales until they acquire the language of the island, and ladinos when they speak it ; and such of them as are born in the island are called criollos* The latter are distinguished, also, as being born in the towns, or as being born in the country, these latter being termed criollos de campo, and are more rustic in language and man- ners than the former, who are remarkable for aptness, and particularly for native musical composition. The American race, which exists in very small number, is the aboriginal, as, although subsequently to the discovery, several Indians were introduced from the continent, chiefly into the western department, and, on the separation of Florida from the Spanish dominion, some of them would occasionally come over to * The African nations from which the negroes are derived are as follows : the Man- dingas, who occupy the greater part of Senegambia, and are divided in Man- dingas proper, Yolofs, and Fulahs ; the latter are the most intelligent, perhaps from partaking of Arabian civilization, as the majority that have come to the island even know how to write, and possess industrial qualifications that render them more desir- able ; the Gangds, inhabiting the coast of Cape Palmas, south of the Kong chain of mountains, and distinguished as Zongovds, Manis, Fires, Kids, Fees, Golds, etc., are well conditioned ; the Minos, from the Gold Coast ; the Lucwnzs, brought from the Slave Coast, but apparently proceeding from Soudan, constitute the majority, and are distinguished by the stripes stained on their cheeks: they are strong for labor, but indomitable and inclined to suicide by hanging ; the Carabalis, of the kingdom of Benin or the Carabali coast, are distinguished as Suamos, Bibis, Bricanos, Brases, etc and have their teeth lanceolated, and are enemies of the Congos ; the Congos, as their name indicates, proceed from the equinoctial or Congo line, and are distin- guished as Royal Congos (those of Angola), Motembos, Musnndis, Mondongos, Mombasas, Mayombes, etc. The Macuas are principally from the interior of the Mozambique 52 Cuba : Havana, we are not aware that they left any descendants. About the settlements of Carey, Santa Rosa, Tiguabos, Ti-Arriba, and Jiguani, and in the environs of Holguin, are still found a few remnants of the prim- itive inhabitants, but the majority are crossed with mulattos. The privileges accorded to them by the Leyes de Indias were continued until 1845. Since 1847, Yucatecos or Yucatan Indians have begun to be in- troduced. The Mongolian race was rarely represented by occasion- ally a member of the crews of vessels visiting the island, until 1847, when Coolies began to be introduced from Em6i, in China. Up to the present time about 6,000 have arrived, and only 20 or 30 returned. They are employed by contract, generally for agricultural labor, or as common servants. They are intelligent and industrious, and soon learn the language. Of mixed races, the mulattos, resulting from the union of the whites and negroes, are the most numerous. The mulatto and the negro produce the Chino, which name confounds them with the Coolies or Asiatics, who are also so-called, although, in judicial proceedings, the term Asiatics is adopted. The mulattos gene- rally employ themselves as carpenters, tailors, musicians, coach-builders, and painters, in which branches they usually excel. Idiom. — The language used throughout the island is the Castilian, which is spoken more correctly than in those provinces of Spain where dialects are used, as in Galicia, Biscay, Catalonia, and Valencia. How- ever, although in making the comparison we set aside certain provincial- isms,* we are far from pretending that our language is as pure and genuine as that used by persons of refinement in Castile or Leon. Be- sides certain corrupt phrases, the Cuban, generally, does not correctly pronounce the syllables za, ze, zi, zo, zu, ce, ci, but pronounces them as if written sa, se, si,- so, su, and se and si (exactly the reverse of the Andalusian), and he frequently confounds the I with the r, saying, for instance, cualter, sordado, instead of cuarlel and soldado ; but this de- fect (also peculiar to Andalusia) is rare among persons of any education. It is somewhat strange that, although constantly hearing the soft dialect of the African, only two or three of his words have been adopted by the Cuban, and that no one should have perfectly acquired any of those dialects.f Character, Habits, and Customs.— The Cubans are well formed, and * We say that we set them aside, because the true provincialisms (not corruptions) really increase the rich, sonorous, and majestic language of Castile. With what Cas- tilian terms could we possibly designate so many indigenous productions bearing only indigenous names, and unknown in Europe ? See on this point the Dictionary of Cuban Phrases by Sr. Pichardo. t In 1838 we had prepared for publication a Manual (useful in other times) of the Lucuml, Ganga, and Congo tongues, to facilitate communication with the new negroes. Physical, Political, a.nd industrial. 53 possess a clear understanding ; they are fond of poetry, dancing, and music. They are accused of liking to make a false show, of disincli- nation for mechanical pursuits, and a strong tendency to litigation. Those bred in the rural districts, constituting the peasantry, and distin- guished by the name of guajiros, are of strong constitution, and although quick-witted, are indolent and given to routine. In the juris- diction of the government of Cuba they wear jackets in the European style, but throughout the rest of the island their costume consists merely of shirt and browsers, with a cutlass or machete belted round the waist, a handkerchief loosely circling the throat, and a hat of guano de yarei leaf or jipijapa straw, and none of them fail to possess a horse on which to ride. The Cuban women are handsome, delicate, intelligent, and well-mannered, and exceedingly fond of music and dancings The im- moral and pernicious game of monte, and the sanguinary exhibitions of cock-fights and duck-races in the country towns, are, unfortunately, a favorite passion of Cubans in general, although the first is persecuted by government with a laudable zeal, and the latter allowed only on Sun- days, and in certain towns.* It is the custom to spend the summer out of the large cities, resorting chiefly to country seats or towns affording salutary baths. On such occasions the Cuban manifests his proverbial disinterestedness and hospitality, inviting, welcoming, and regaling all his friends and acquaintances. It is also the custom for planters to reside on their estates during crop-time. The active trade and the heat of the climate excuse the' common propensity to use carriages, and the quitrin is one of the most peculiar, as well as most necessary, append- ages to a household of any in the island. Public Instruction. — Intellectual Culture. — Education has made great progress in the island, especially, since the establishment of the Royal Economical Societies of Havana and Cuba, and above all since * It has been toasted that the town of Consolacion del Sur possesses two cock-pits ! In consequence of the new Plaza de Toros, or square for bull-baiting, at Havana, a taste is becoming diffused for another spectacle, no less bloody than that of cock- fighting, and. the worst of it is that it is termed national, when all the enlightened men of the nation (who should, certainly constitute the votes) condemn it in their writings. " The Spanish people (says the wise Sr. Monlan, in his Treatise on Hygienics), with all their temperance, have certain instincts which they should curb. "We believe that government, far from fostering the taste for bull-fights for instance, thould restrain it, and prepare for the advent of the time in which an exhibition so justly reprobated by all who possess any ideas of administration and government shall disappear. Instead of arenas for bull-fights, there should be gymnasiums for the youth of the country; and those communities that erect new circuses to amuse themselves by awakening and mocking the ire of a useful, animal would employ their money better in establish- ing scientific professorships or agricultural colonies, or in improving the condition of the public prisons." 54 Cuba : 1842, when an extraordinary change was made in the public schools, subjecting them to a board of inspection, which, as regards primary in- struction, has been subdivided into provincial, local, and auxiliary com- mittees. The capital contains a well-organized royal university, with a rector and thirty professors.* There is a seminary college in Havana, and another in Cuba, which are subject to especial regulations, and where the branches of ecclesiastical studies, philology, and philosophy are taught. At present are published in Havana four daily papers, a monthly, with the title of Anales, etc., two illustrated semi-monthlies (the Revista de la Habana and El Almendares) , and there occasionally circulate be- sides a few literary and scientific publications, chiefly edited by young Cubans, who, with laudable perseverance, have applied themselves to the cultivation of letters. In Matanzas the Aurora is published daily, and from time to time some other publication makes its appearance. Car- denas, Sagua, Cienfuegos, and Remedios issue an Hoja Economica (eco- nomical sheet). In Trinidad is published the Correo, in Santo Espiritu the Fenix, in Puerto Principe the Fanal, and in Cuba the Orden, the Redactor, and Memorias de la Real Sociedad Economica. Pinar del Rio, Bayamo, and Holguin are the only large towns in the island want- ing in an element which affords so good a proof of the culture of a com- munity. The branches of literature most affected by the natives are poetry, history, and novels ; little having been published in regard to the exact sciences, and that only of the most elementary nature for ithe use of schools. In poetry, Zequeira Rubalcaba, Heredia, Blanchie, and Mila- nesf have shone conspicuously ; the majority in descriptive and lyrical compositions, and some as dramatical writers. Among these Milanes has excelled in his tragedy of El Conde Alar cos. The Countess of Merlin has distinguished herself as a novelist. As historians, Arrate, Urrutia, Valdes, and Heredia ; as a grammarian, Vidal ; and the learned Pres- byter Varela in philosophy; in jurisprudence, Ayala, Hechavarria, Ponce de Leon, Escovedo, Armas, and Govantes ; and in medicine, the celebrated Romay. Among the most prominent Cubans have been the following : Don Luis M. cle Penalver y Cardenas, archbishop of Guate- mala ; Bishops Pa]ma and Hechavarria ; Don Juan Bernardo de O'Gavan, dean and governor of the bishopric of Havana ; Don Ramon Jose Mendi- * There is now in course of erection at Havana, on account of the State, a fine edifice for educational purposes, under the title of Keal Colegio de la Habana, and it is intended to establish a similar one at Puerto Principe. t "We include this poet in the number of departed authors, as the unfortunate state of his health renders him lost to the world of letters. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 55 ola, magistrate of Puerto Principe and Porto Rico ; Don Jose Domingo Benitez, minister of the Supreme Tribunal of War an?T Marine; Don Rafael Rodriguez, sole assessor of Havana, and honorary counsellor of state ; Don Fernando O'Reilly, honorary judge and chief justice of Ha- vana ; Don Antonio Maria de la Torre y Cardenas, political secretary from 1821 to 1841 ; the memorable statesmen and counsellors of state, Don Francisco Arango y Parreno, superintendent, and Count Villanueva, superintendent of Havana, senator, and grandee of Spain of the first class ; General Don Gonzalo O'Farrill and Don Jorge Maria de la Torre ministers of War ; Generals Don Francisco Diaz Pimienta, Count Re- villagigedo, viceroy of Mexico, Count Mopox y de Jaruco, Don Carlos de Urrutia, Don Jose de Zayas, Don Vicente Genaro de Quesada, Don Jose Moscoso, Don Gabriel, and Don Domingo Aristizabal, Don Juan Montalvo, and the Marquis de San Felipe y Santiago ; and Colonel Don Jose Maria de la Torre, who was governor of Florida. Manufactures and Arts. — The island of Cuba does not at present rank as a manufacturing nor artistic country. However, the production of sugar (which is a manufacture) is more advanced than in many other cane-growing countries, as is proved by the preference and higher price which it obtains in foreign markets. Besides sugar and rum, in the rural districts are manufactured starch, casabe or yuca-bread, and pot- tery, also hats of the yarei palm,* and, at the western side of the island, mats, baskets, seroons, cocoa-nut oil, etc. A great number of persons are employed in manufacturing cigars, and on the coasts many are engaged in ship-building.f At Havana are good founderies, where entire steam- engines are cast. At Guanabacoa are manufactories of cutlass blades of excellent quality. There are also in the island manufactories of per- fumery, pickles, nails, friction matches, felt hats, stearine candles, soap, superior composition metal, carriages (rivaling the best foreign), refined sugar, and others. In 1851 a large paper factory of all kinds was de- stroyed by fire at Puentes-Grandes. Agriculture. — " The agricultural industry of the island may be consid- ered as divided into two great systems, which in Europe are advan- tageously combined, but that here have continued separate since the * This manufacture has greatly decreased since 1839, when hats of jipijapa straw- began to come into general use. t It is known that from 1724 to 179T there were built at Havana 6 three-deck ships, 21 of 70 to 80 guns, 26 of 50 to 60 guns, 14 frigates of 30 to 40, and 5S smaller vessels; total 125, two of which mounting 120 guns. Subsequently there have been built sev- eral other vessels of war, and many merchantmen, including several steamers. The steamer " Sagua la Grande" was built at the place of that name, and two steamers at Havana, one for war. 56 Cuba : earliest period of the settlement, viz., the breeding of cattle and the cul- tivation of the soil. The first is quite independent of tillage, and conse- quently employs -no utensils nor manures, nor anything tending to veg- etable production. The second represents agriculture in its infancy, as much by the imperfection of the instruments used, as by the paucity of principles that constitute the husbandman's art ; principles that, with few exceptions, may be reduced to the simple ones of sowing and reap- ing, leaving all the rest to the fruitfulness of the soil and the excellence of the climate." (Sagra, History of Cuba.*) Of the 916,571 caballerias of landf constituting the surface of the island and its adjacent territory, 48,572 are cultivated, 20,341 used for artificial pasturage, 149,248 for natural pasturage, 377,003 are mountainous or uncleared, and 321,407 of barren lands, mines, etc. There are consequently 68,913 caballerias under cultivation and 526,251 uncultivated, besides the 321,407 of bar- ren lands, mines, etc. The statistics for 1827 state that in said year there were 91,819 caballerias registered for cultivation, and, according to Sr. Sagra (History of Cuba), the island numbered 66,441 caballerias under cultivation in 1840. Now no one that is aware of the extraordi- nary impulse received by the agricultural industry of the island since 1840, can doubt that the extent of land then under cultivation has at least been doubled, and, consequently, either the data from which the statistics of 1827 were formed, and on which Sr. Sagra's statement was founded, were greatly exaggerated, or, as is more likely, those consti- tuting the basis of the last statistical returns are exceedingly under- rated. It will, however, be observed that the said statistics of 1827 only give the number of registered « caballerias," including natural pastur- ages, woods, etc., which we have stated separately. The chief agricul- tural products are the sugar-cane, tobacco, coffee, cotton, fruit, and vegetables. Bice, sago, maize, and even cocoa, are cultivated on a small scale, not enough to supply the consumption of the interior. Wheat,:}: * Since the voyage made by the author to the United States in 1S48 and 1849 com- missioned by the Junta de Fomento for scientific and industrial information, a change is taking place both in the instruments used and in the system of various branches of cultivation, and. also by the adoption of new methods, as'is proved by the immense subsequent importation of instruments, animals, and seed. t The maritime league of one-twentieth of an equatorial degree is equal to 5565 3<>9 metres according to Humboldt, which is equivalent to 6562.S8 Cuban varus. There- fore the maritime square 'league is equal to 43.071.40 square Cuban varas, or 230 7 caballerias of land: and 8,973 square maritime leagues equal to 916,571 caballerias or 12,301.527 hectares. ' % We can not conceive what has given rise to the idea that the cultivation of wheat was prohibited in the island, when, on the contrary, government has made several at- tempts to foster it. The true cause of its neglect is its small yield as compared with that of any other article. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 57 indigo, and even the mulberry and nopal trees (for breeding the silk- worm and the cochineal insect) have been almost entirely abandoned. Sugar, rum, wax, and other petty manufactures, and the breeding of cattle, complete the list of agricultural labors in the island. The tene- ments where the preceding are cultivated and manufactured are classi- fied in the island as follows : Hato, a circular space of land, with a ra- dius of two Cuban leagues.* Corral, also a circular space, of one C'tban league radius. Potrero, an inclosed estate of less extent than either of the two preceding, but with more abundant pasturage. These three classes are devoted to raising live-stock of all kinds, but the first espe- cially to horned cattle; the second to sheep, goats, and swine, and the third to grazing horned cattle and breeding horses. The number of cattle that the hatos and corrales may maintain depends on the nature of the land, since if it contains more meadow than thickets or woods it will be susceptible of raising more horned cattle, and vice versa. In the potre- ros, if well managed, may be raised and pastured on the average 25 oxen and horses for each caballeria of land. Ingenio is an agricultural and manufacturing estate, generally of greater extent than the cafetal, and where the sugar-cane is cultivated, and sugar and rum manufactured. It is the largest establishment in the island. The lands of Cuba are recognized as superior to those of the other Antilles for the cultivation of the sugar-cane. The produce of the cane is exceedingly irregular, depending as it does on the quality of the soil, the weather, the class and age of the plant, and especially on the apparatus used in the manufac- ture. In regard to the last, the island is in the highest stage of ad- vancement, as is proved by its large crops and the quality of the com- modity, which commands a decided preference in all the markets of the world. f A caballeria of land under favorable circumstances produces * There are some hatos of three and of five leagues radius, like that of Hanabana, but the majority, the same as the corrales, are incomplete. As these two classes of estates are of great extent, and as from their apportionment most of the others have originated, the knowledge of them, is important and necessary, especially to avoid confounding ihe administrative division, as the comprehensive extent of said cattle estates is vulgarly termed partido or district. Thus we frequently hear of portidos de la Bija, de las Virtudas, and even province of Barajagua. though such partidos or province have no existence. t There are in the island many ingenios that produce 8,000 to 9,000 boxes of sugar. ZaPonina, estate of Sr. Diago, produces 12,000, and the Alava of Sr. Zulueta 15,000, and there are two in process of establishment that will produce 16,000 and 30,000 re- spectively. (See the Editorial of the Diario de la Marina of 1st January, 1852.) A great manufactory of beet-root sugar in Belgium, with all the recent improvements, requires for its machinery and buildings (that is to say for its boiling-house) an outlay of $40,000, exclusive of the current expenses of manufacture, and will produce at the utmost three tons of sugar a day, equal to about 15 boxes. This becomes insignificant when compared with an ingenio in the island whose daily production is 125 boxes. 58 , Cuba : 3,000 to 4,000 arrobas by the ordinary apparatus, and even double that quantity if the Derosne apparatus is used. Cafetal is a coffee planta- tion. Coffee, introduced into the island in 1748, did not begin to figure among the exports until toward the end of the last century ; and became at the commencement of the present century the second staple in im- portance ; but, unable to withstand the competition of Brazil, Java, and Ceylon,* it has, since 1832, retrograded to such a degree that it is ap- prehended that in the course of a very few years it will only be culti- vated for domestic consumption. A caballeria of land produces on the average 800 arrobas, and in the eastern part of the island it is estimated at 1,600 arrobas. There are many plantations where a pound of coffee per plant is harvested. That grown in the jurisdiction of Cuba and Saltadero, equal to the Santo Domingo coffee, is still much esteemed in foreign markets. Vega is a plantation devoted to tobacco, and gener- ally consists of a small space of land, in most instances situated on the banks of the rivers. Respecting the product of tobacco, a proper esti- mate can scarcely be formed, for on appropriate soil and with favorable weather the half million of plants that a caballeria of land may contain yield 120 to 150 car gas, at the rate of eight arrobas the carga, while the same space of land under unfavorable weather will only produce 30 or 40 car gas. " It is well known that the lands west of the meridian of Ha- vana, and distinguished as Vuelta-Abajo, produce the finest tobacco in the world, in richness of color and fragrance, softness of leaf, and read- iness of combustion. But it must not be imagined that all the western territory of the island enjoys the same privilege. The best lands for this plant (which are paid at the rate of $1,000 and a bonus of $100 or six doubloons) are comprised in an irregular oblong square, whose bound- aries are, on the east the Rio Hondo or Consolacion del Sur River, on the west the Cuyaguateje or Mantua River, on the north the Sierra de los Organos, and on the south the belt of barrigona palms, that runs in a parallel direction to the coast. This oblong square is 28 leagues long and 7 wide. Out of it, toward the meridian of Havana, the tobacco is of fine color but less fragrant, and the first of these qualities gives it the preference with foreigners. From Consolacion to San Cristobal the tobacco is of high quality, as the veguero terms it, but harsh and strong and from San Cristobal to Guana jay (excepting the district of Las Vir- tudas) the tobacco is inferior, and continues so eastward as far as Hol- *^The coffee of the island is incomparably superior to that of the countries named, and the decline in the production may "be attributed to the differential duties imposed in the United States on imports from Cuba, in retaliation for our high impost on their flour taken in their vessels to tlie Brazilian markets.— Vide Torrente and Arboleya. [Coffee is at present admitted free of duty ivilo the United States.— Editor,] Physical, Political, and % Industrial. 59 guin and Cuba, where it again becomes of good quality. The fertile valley of Giiines produces bad smoking tobacco, but excellent for snuff, which used to be manufactured in large quantity for account of the factory. Among the same lands of the Vuelta-Abajo are some of supe- rior kind, such as the Vegas de la Lena and Del Corojo, on the margin of the Kiyer San Sebastian, where the best tobacco in the island is gath- ered. There are also excellent vegas at Mayari, on the eastern side. The Tobacco Board having determined in 1792 on the settlement and cultivation of that district, proposed that the 18 leagues of land com- posing it should be purchased by the treasury, and repaid by the colo- nists with five per cent, of the product of the tobacco, proving the prefer- ence given it. There are several other regions adapted to the cultivation of this leaf. The district of Guantanamo alone produced about six years ago 1,200 arrobas."* (Sagra's History.) Algodonal is a cotton planta- tion. Only in the eastern department are there estates exclusively devoted to this product, yielding 6,000 pounds of excellent quality per caballeria. In the avenues between the plants are cultivated maize and pulse.f Cacagual or cacaotal is a cocoa plantation. Only in San Juan de los Eemedios are there properties of this description, as in other parts of the island cocoa, like cotton, constitutes but a part of the cultivation. 5,000 cocoa-trees may be raised on a caballeria, and as the product of each tree is estimated at five pounds, the average yield maybe set down as 250 quint- als. It is of good quality, and would be better if the seed, instead of hav- ing been introduced from Maracaibo, were that of Chuav, Choroni, or Ocu- mare (near Porto Cabello), or of Soconuco, in Guatemala, which produce * In the five years of 1847 to 1S52 the jurisdiction of Pinar del Eio and the district of Consolacion del Norte have produced an average of 150,000 tercios of tobacco, which, at the rate of 110 pounds each, amount to 16,500,000 pounds. In 1848 the average price was $25 a tercio, and in 1S52, $27. The vegas of this district comprise 2,000 caballe- rias of land. {Memoria Sobre el Cultivo del Tabaco, por un Amigo del Pais, 1852.) See also another work by Sr. Salazar, and El Tabaco Habano, by Sr. Rodriguez-Ferrer ; also some interesting notes on the same subject by the author's great-grandfather, Col. Don Antonio Maria de la Torre, his grandfather, Col. Don Jose Maria, and his father, government inspector of tobacco, some of which have been published in the Memorias de la Heal Sociedad Economica. t One of the chief objects of the author's mission to the United States in 1848 was to collect the best cotton seed, and learn the best method for its cultivation, being per- suaded that it would be the best substitute for the retrograding production of coffee. He obtained five excellent kinds, including the prolific promenate, that had just been introduced there from Mexico, and which afforded a most satisfactory result in the trial made by Sr. Bonany. Having taken to Spain samples and seed of this cotton produced in the island, it drew the attention of several enlightened agriculturists; and such was the astonishment of the learned Sr. Olivan at so fine a product, that he presented the author to the Ministro de Fomento, who immediately sent some of the seed to An- dalusia, where endeavors are now being made to .acclimate the plant, 1 SO , Cuba : the best in the world.* Estancia is a small farm in the neighborhood of towns, where vegetables, fruit, etc., are raised; when not in the imme- diate vicinity of towns, it is termed sitio de labor ; and, when exclusively belonging to a larger plantation, sitio de viandas. On the estancias poultry and cows are raised; and the sitios de labor produce cheese, casabe, and starch. Tejar is a place where pottery and bricks are manu- factured. Colmenar is the place where bee-hives are kept. There are few tenements exclusively devoted to this branch, Puerto Principe being the most productive district. The wax of the island is of superior quality and is exported to the markets within the Mexican gulf, and even to the Spanish peninsula.f Quinta is a country seat or summer resort, gener- ally situated near the large towns. Maize, rice, sago, pulse, yuca, the bomato or sweet potato, plantains, and fruit are not grown on deter- minate possessions, but on nearly all, and especially on those termed szttos de labor Maize is very variable in its crops, but the average T^n/ Caballeria of land > at the ^te of 140 to 200 fold, is estimated at 200 fanegas or quintals of grain. Each mazorca or ear usually con- ^r^r^f 50 ?^ 118 - ^Pr^stwocropsayear. Rice yields rnl.° X nnn' ^ ^^ Pr ° dUCt ° f a ™ b ^ia may be esti- mated at 2,000 arrobas, or 3,000 on new and fruitful lands.* Mustard The author intends publishing the notes written by his father in 1831 for the Min- ister Count Ofalia on the cultivation of cocoa, and recommends the work on the same subject by Don Pedro Santacilla, Puerto Principe, 1849, in which is the follow ng Z sage: > Humboldt and Codazzi attribute to the extreme fertility of the soil ZtpoZ 2 e * fe Which ? auses co <™ ^0 produce in^ years at the place cal ed Z Negro. Well, now, at the cafetal La Union, situate eight leagues from this citv there wrr eS r hat t haVepr0dUCedia ^^- T ^«P-codous g roirpr^snow favorable the chmate ,s m general to this production, and, with good seed we could doubtless have as good cocoa plantations as the best in South America » t The breeding of bees and the production of wax are exceedingly interesting branches of rural industry, if we consider the great advantages afforded by toe^ate the cons ant vegetation of the island, the trifling outlay that is necessary, the abundance of stable timber the use of which is permitted to the bee-keepers, and the certa „ advantage of preference commanded by the superior quality of the product throughout the markets of the Mexican gulf. (For the raising of bees, etc., in the island see the notes of Don Tomas Eomay, 1796, and Don Pedro Boloix in 1815 ) * As will be seen in the Appendix, the author has introduced into the island various IT t Tt 7 5Ze ' riCe ' and ° tber Seed ' eSpeda]ly S rasses for P^-age. I ^a shame that a though nee yields surprisingly, not only has its cultivation not been ex! tendea but there is not an establishment with proper machinery for cleanTn^t part.cularly in the beautiful and fruitful valley of Guinea, whose rivi mi^ht be so & ad' vantageously availed of for water-power. Those persons who, like ourselves, have been desiring the establishment of a model hacienda, will soon have the pleasure of noticing a step toward it in .he erection of a building in the present botanic!^ 1/ which m to contain a meteorological observatory, a professorship of botany etc Physical, Political, and Industrial. 01 wnich is produced o; superior quality fc and of so much demand in England and the United States, is scarcely cultivated. The gutta-percha and caoutchouc or India-rubber trees have hardly been acclimated yet. Sago, little cultivated, though worthy of attention, has produced at San Antonio at the rate of 160 quintals of flour per caballeria, and in other places 6,400 arrobas of the root per caballeria. As regards pasturages, it is only in the central part of the island that meadows are formed of anv; considerable extent. Millet is abundantly raised, principally to feed horned cattle. Navigation* — In 1851 there entered the several ports of the island 883 Spanish vessels, measuring 270,176 tons, and 2,982 foreign, measur- ing 727,814 tons. Total, 3,865 vessels, and 998,000 tons. The number of vessels cleared was 3,735, of which 793 were Spanish.* COMMERCE. — The exterior trade of the island is in so prosperous a state that it equals in importance that of the metropolis. t In 1851 it amounted to $63,665,1024 The importation amounted to $32,315,745, || of which (about $19,899,000) § was in Spanish bottoms. The exportation amounted to $31, 349,357, IT whereof $6,204,653 under Spanish flag. The * Throughout the entire Spanish peninsula, including its adjacent islands (Baleares and Canaries), the number of vessels entered in 1850 was 6,008, measuring 725,043 tons (3,164 Spanish, with 339,574 tons), and cleared 5,141, with 6S8,317 tons (2,490 Spanish, with 277,839 tons). As regards amount of tonnage, it will hence be seen that the shipping trade of the Island of Cuba exceeds that of Spain. It is very gen- erally supposed that the distance between Havana and Cadiz is 1,600 maritime leagues, but we have carefully calculated it with inte'ligent naval officers, and find the directest route is no more than 1,3S2 maritime leagues. The quickest passages made from and to Havana have been the following : in 1829, from Havana to Cadiz, Amer- ican ships Fabius and Teaplant, 21 days ; 1833 (October), Spanish brig-of-war Jason, from Cadiz to Havana, 22 days ; 1841 (September), French frigate Havre et Guade- loupe, to Havre, 21 days; 1843, Spanish brig Gallo de Oro, to Cadiz, 23 days; 1848. American steamer Crescent City, to New York, in 68 hours ; 1853, Spanish steamer Fernando el Cat61ico, to Vigo, in 17 days 7 hours. t "But for the happy privileges of the port of Havana, Jamaica would have been the centre of all the mercantile operations with the neighboring continent." — Hum- boldt, Political Essay on the Island of Cuba. % See Appendix No. 1. || The average of 10 years (1840 to 1850) is $26,195,S50. The chief imports in 1851 were as follows : liquids (such as wines, oils. etc.). $2,825,045 : provisions. $1,985,423 ; spices, $86,442; fruits, $287,586; grain, $4,808.S10; fish, $619,205; other provisions, $2,011,401 ; cottons, $3.021,009 ; linens, $3,528,084 ; woolens, $431,702 ; silks, $529,S12 ; skins and furs, f'5S9,457; wood and timber, $2,211,229; metals, $2,791,617; animals, $37,974; railway machinery and material, $634,429; ditto for sugar plantations, $506,862 ; other articles, $5,410,335. § In the original the sum is stated at $19,899, but it is evident that the final figures have been left out. In 1S50 it was $18,445,072 in a total of $28,9S3,227. 1 The average of 1841 to 1850 is $24,6S5,844. The chief exports in 1S51 were as follows : principal productions of the island, $30,340.423 ; other, $87,962 ; wood and 62 Cuba : order in which the countries trading with Cuba stand, according to the absolute value of their transactions, is as follows : United States, En- gland, Spain, Germany, Spanish- American States, France, Russia, Bel- gium, Denmark, Holland, etc. ; but in regard to importation only, the first in order is Spain, then the United States, England, Spanish-Ameri- can States, Germany, France, Denmark, Belgium, Holland, Brazil, etc. ; and in regard to exportation, the United States, England, Spain, Ger- many, Russia, France, Spanish- American States, Holland, Belgium, etc. The customs dues are in accordance with the tariff published in 1847, with the modifications made in 1852. Revenue. — The revenues of the Island of Cuba are divided into mari- time and inland, the first comprising customs and light-house dues, ship-visits, etc., and the second, various taxes and different tolls of an origin entirely distinct from that of imposts or contributions. Both sources are subdivided into proper and alien branches, that is to say, the portion of taxes immediately distributed by the Royal Treasury, and that which it collects for other accoimt, applicable to special services, such as the Junta de Fomento (Board of Improvement), Beneficencia (Alms-house), etc. During the reign of the ruinous system of monopoly, H the revenues of Cuba were so small, that, to cover her internal obliga- tions ai;d the many external ones imposed on her, it was found neces- sary to obtain assistance, which, under the name of situado* was annually afforded by the treasury of Mexico. And who could have imagined that — thanks to free-trade — in a period of less than fifty years, the possession that received such aid would have a revenue one third greater than that of the opulent viceroyship which afforded it ?f The total revenue of the island in 1851 amounted to $13,821,456, whereof $1,651,414 belonged to the " alien" branches. timber, $398,811; re-exported articles, $514,4S5. The quantity of principal products exported was 1,539,994 boxes of sugar ; 575,119 arrdbas of coffee, 318,428 puncheons of molasses, 9,316,593 pounds of leaf tobacco, 270,313 thousands cigars. The average annual exportation for the five years ending with 1850 was as follows: 18,690,460 arrdbas of sugar, 13,653 puncheons of rum, 240,155 puncheons molasses, 768,244 arrdbas of coffee ; 48,141 arrdbas of wax, 291,347 arrdbas of leaf tobacco, 896,008 thousands cigars, 598,647 quintals of copper. The average export of-coffee for the five years ending with 1835, 1,995,832 arrdbas; and between 1841 to '45, the average annual export of cigars was 941,467 thousands, and that of copper 1,023,S3S quintals. * It is not positively known at what time these situados began, but the receipt of one is recorded in 15S4. From a published statement, it appears that, from 1766 to 1806, the treasury of Havana received $108,150,627, which is an average of $2,637,820 per annum. The external obligations imposed on the island were principally the building of vessels, the purchase of timber, tobacco, etc. + The present annual revenue of Mexico is only about $8,000,000. {See Catechism of Geography by General Abnonte, Mexico, 1852.} Physical, Political, and Industrial. 63 Expenditure. — The total of expenses of the island during 1851 amounted to $11,969,750.* CommnnkatiOD. — We shall divide this section into Internal Communi- cation, or within the island, and External Communication, or with other countries. Internal Communication. — The mediums of land communication are the common roads, causeways, railroads, and electric telegraphs ; those of maritime intercourse are the coasting-trade and the lines of steamers and sailing packets between determinate points. Common Roads. — Respecting these, it should be said that they require much improvement, being in a very bad condition, as much from their indirectnessf as from their pavement, which, being natural, becomes so broken up, especially in the rainy season, as to be frequently impassable. A broad road runs through the centre of the island from Havana to Cuba, passing by Villa Clara, Santo Espiritu, Puerto Principe, and Bayamo, known as the Camino Real del Centro, or del interior. There are several other branch-roads to different towns and places on the coast.J Causeways. — There are at present — one ten and a half Cuban leagues in extent, from Havana {puerta de tierra) to Guanajay, with a toll-gate ; another from Havana to Santiago de las Vegas, scarcely four leagues in length from the corner of Teja, also with a toll-gate ; another, six leagues in length, from the corner of Tollo to Jamaica ;|[ another from Luyano to the Gallega tavern (east of Guanabacoa, and soon to be continued as far as Guanabo, by Barrera), three and a quarter leagues in length ; another from Casilda to Trinidad ; and another from Batabano to the beach, one league in length. * As follows : collection, $S09,971 ; justice, $169,002 ; ecclesiastical branch, $327,S05 ; civil expenses, $1,044,697 ; military expenses, $5,9S5,963 ; naval expenses, $1,965,444 ; peninsular affairs, $1,590,130 ; legations and consulates of America, |76,738. Total, $11,969,750, and adding the expenses of " alien" branches, amount- ng to $1,327,456, the total expenditure is $13,297,206. In 1S41 the amount, exclusive rf the alien branches, was $10,112,533, and in 1850 $10,475,159, although from 1823 to 641 they did not exceed 3 to 4 millions of dollars annually. t The road between Cuba and Baracoa is so winding, that at some places it runs T*>ven leagues in an opposite direction to the one intended, besides crossing a single »itrer (the Joj6) 11 times. I The legal width of the highways is 24 varas, of the cross-roads 16, and of the bridle-roads 8 varus. || There are three leagues more contracted for from Jamaica to the Fuentes tavern, by Mount Candela; and the continuation of the Guanajay road as far as Candelaria, with 27 economical bridges, has just been approved. Stages run daily from Havana to Marianao and Guanajay; from Havana to Santiago (two lines); from Havana to San Jose de las Lajas ; and from Pwegla to Guanabacoa, and as far as the Gallega tavern. 64 Cuba : Electric Telegraphs. — The lines contracted for from Pinar del Rio to Cuba are already being' constructed, with branches to the principal towns on the coast ; and the section between Havana, Matanzas, Cardenas, and Guanajay will soon be in operation, running along the line of railway on the western part of the island. Messages are already transmitted between Havana and Batabano. Railroads. — The Island of Cuba enjoys the glory of having forestalled many of the most civilized countries in the adoption of these rapid, com- modious, and economical mediums of intercourse. After England and the United States, only Austria and France have preceded her — the first by three years, and the second by two. The railway opened in 1837 from Havana to Bejucal, and extended the following year as far as Giiines, is not only the first in the Spanish monarchy,* but in all the Spanish- American countries. Their present extent is 351 miles, or 133s Cuban leagues, distributed among the following lines : " Havana :" the Havana railroad consists of-108 miles, distributed as follows— Section from Ha- vana to La Union, 77 4-5 miles, with the following stations, viz., Deposito de Villanueva (in Havana), Cienaga, Almendares, Aguada delCura, Bin- con, Bejucal, Quibican, San Felipe, Duran, Guara, Melena, Giiines, San Nicolas, Los Vegas, Los Palos, Bermeja, and Union, where it connects with the Matanzas line; the branch-road from San Felipe to Bataban6, 9| miles, with an intermediate station at Pozo-Redondo ; branch from Bin- con to Guanajay, 21 miles, with the intermediate stations of San Antonio, Seborucal, and La Seiba. "Regla to Guanabacoa," 4 miles. " Matanzas and Sabanilla road," 47 £ miles from Matanzas to Isabel, with the following intermediate stations : Guanabana (where it connects with the Coliseo road), Cidra, La Sabanilla, Union, Bolondron, La Giiira, Navajas (where it connects with the Cardenas road), and Corral-Falso. The line is already surveyed for the branch that is to be built from La Isabel to connect with the Cienfuegos road at Las Cruces, touching at La Aguica. " Coliseo road," 16 miles (exclusive of the 7| between Matanzas and La Guanabana, connecting point), with the following stations : Guanabana, Ibarra, Caobas, Limonar, Sumidero, and Coliseo. The line that is to connect at this point with the Cardenas road is already surveyed and will soon be commenced. " Cardenas road," 63| miles, distributed as follows : trunk-road from Cardenas to Navajas, 29| miles, * The railway from Matar6 to Barcelona, the first on the peninsula of Spain, was opened in October, 1S4S; that from Madrid to Aranjuez in February, 1S51 ; and to Tembleque in September, 1853. But although this proves how late Spain adopted this advantageous means of communication, it must also be acknowledged that few coun- tries have evinced greater enthusiasm, patriotism, and decision in undertaking so many and extensive lines as are now being effected. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 65 with the following stations : Contreras, Cimarrones, Bemba, Banchuelo, Corral-Falso, Montalvo, and Navajas ; branch from Bemba to La Maca- gua, 34 miles, with the following intermediate stations : Quintana, Perico, Tinguaro, Nueva Bermeja, and Agiiica. " Jficaro road," 34 miles, distributed thus : trunk from Jucaro to Pijuan, 21 miles, with the stations of San Anton, Becreo, Artemisal, and Pijuan or Laguna Grande ; branch of La Sabanilla de la Palma, 4 miles ; branch of Banaguises, 9 miles. " Cienfuegos to Villa Clara," 19 miles completed, with the sta- tions of Palmira and Las Cruces ; and 23 miles in process of construc- tion. " Mallorquin to Pijuan," in project. " Carahatas," half a league in the interior, in process of construction. " Sagua to Villa Clara," in process of construction. " Trinidad to Casilda and Santo Espiritu," in process of building. " Bemedios to Caibarien," 6 miles built. " Beme- dios to Santo Espiritu," in project. " Santo Espiritu to Sasa," in project. " Puerto Principe to Nuevitas," 44 3-5 miles, with the following stations : San Jose (in Puerto Principe), Sabana-Nueva, Alcoy, Minas, Bamblazo, Buena- Vista, and Villa-Nueva (in Nuevitas). " Jibara to Holguin," in project. " Manzanillo to Bayamo," in project. " Cobre to Punta de Sal" (port of Cuba), 9 miles, of which 3 are on an inclined plane. Lines of Steamers and Sailing-Packets. — Besides the sailing- vessels devoted to the coasting-trade,* the maritime intercourse of the island is performed by the following lines of steamers and sailing-packets, viz., between Havana, Matanzas, Cardenas, and El Jticaro, steamers alter- nating,every day, and reaching Matanzas in five hours ; between Bata- bano and Cuba', stopping at Cienfuegos, Trinidad, Santa Cruz, and Man- zanillo, time, five days ; between Batabano and Bailen, stopping at Dayaniguas, Coloma, and Punta de Cartas, one day ; between Batabano and Pinos island, weekly, time, a few hours ; between Havana and El Morrillo (Vuelta-Abajo, north coast) ; between Havana, Los Arroyos, and Bailen, Punta de Cartas, and Coloma. The foregoing are regular, but almost every month there are steamers that make voyages from Havana and Nuevitas, and even as far as Cuba, stopping at the principal inter - * The coast-shipping of the Island of Cuba offers two highly satisfactory considera- tions. The first is its extraordinary increase within the last 10 years, both cause and effect of the growth of our internal trade ; and the second is the excellence of the ves- sels and the variety of their motive power, there being in this regard no reason to fear a comparison with any other nation. The sailing-vessels employed in the coast- ing-trade are generally of sufficient capacity for the cargo that usually offers at the ports they frequent, and without neglecting solidity, they are in general fast sailers, thus combining three great advantages. In corroboration of this statement, witness those fine schooners that cover the waters of the harbor, some of them exceeding in bur- den many of the ocean vessels ; and it is also worthy of note that very few of them are 66 Cuba : mediate ports. A steamer of 1 ,000 tons is expected from New York for the coasting-trade of the island, and others have been ordered. External. Communication. — The intercourse of this island with other countries is as yet only by means of vessels ; although it appears that the project of a submarine telegraph between the island and the American continent by the coast of Florida is likely to be realized. * The enviable position of Cuba, as the " Key of the New World, renders it exceedingly favorable as a stopping-place of all the navigation lines that are being established between Europe and America, and even those run- ning between the different ports of the latter continent. There are, in fact (besides the very numerous sailing-vessels), the following lines of trans- Atlantic steamers : between Havana and Cadiz, monthly ; time, 20 to 24 days. Between Key West, Savannah, Charleston, and Havana, the American steamer Isabel, making two trips a month. Between New York, Havana, and Mobile, steamer Black Warrior, making two trips a month. Between New York, Havana, and -New Orleans, steamers Cres- cent City, Philadelphia, Empire City, United States, etc., twice a month. Between Southampton and Havana, monthly, English line. Between Havana and Buenos- Ayres, touching at Brazil, a new English line. Coat of Arms. — In 1516 it was granted to Cuba to use ei an escutcheon divided into two quarters, the upper emblazoned with the Assumption of Our Lady, mantled in purple and gold, and resting on a crescent, with four azure angels and clouds ; and in the lower the image of Santiago in a green field, with rocks and trees in the distance ; at the top the let- ter F, an I at the right and C at the left, being the initials of Fernan- do, Isabel, and Carlos ; at the sides, a yoke and arrows ; and beneath these figures, and pendant from the base, a lamb ; showing that Cuba's distinctive and most honorable emblem is, Mary, the Holy Mother of God." Measures t* — Long Measure. — The Cuban vara contains 848 milli- metres, and is divided into three tercias or four cuartas ; it is half an inch longer than the Castilian, or, more properly, that of Burgos ; therefore, by deducting from it 6 17-100 lines, we have the Castilian vara; by adding to it (say) 6£ Cuban inches we have the metre; and adding 2 10-12 inches it becomes the English yard. It is not customary to call the third part of the vara " foot," but tercia, or " third."t The * It is ordered, that after 1854 the metrical system shall be adopted in the depend- encies of the State. t This vara, known as the Cuban, provincial, De Flores, or surveyor's, is used throughout the island, except at ITavana, where, for trade and surveying, the vara Ha- banera, or commercial, is made use of, and contains 845 metres. Whenever, in this chapter, the term vara alone is expressed, the Cuban vara is meant. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 67 Cuban or provincial league contains 5,000 Cuban varas, or 4,240 French metres, while the Castilian is 6,571 k Cuban, or 6,666| Castilian varas. Surveyor's Measure. — The cordel of 24 varas (formerly 25) ; the vara de tarea (used in clearings and chapeos) is a pole of 6 varas in length (in Cuba, 4 Castilian varas) ; the tendido de soga, 25 brazas or fathoms (formerly 32, which it actually measures in Cuba) ; the caballeria of land is a square of 18 cordeles, or 432 varas on each side, or 324 square cordeles, or 186,624 square varas ; the solar, or " lot," varies in different towns : in Havana it is 27 Habana varas front and 40 deep, in Matanzas it is 30 Cuban varas front and 40 deep, in Guana- bacoa 20 by 30 varas, San Juan de los Remedios 30 by 40, etc. ; the card (carreau, French measure, adopted in the jurisdiction of Cuba), is the tenth part of a caballeria of land ; the raesana (besama) is a space of land for tillage bounded by four furrows, one on every side, of an extent adapted to rest the oxen at the turn ; the tarea (used in the chapeos or clearings) is a surface of 25 varas de tarea in length, and 1 in breadth, equal to 900 square varas ; the legua corralera (which is understood whenever a superficial league of hato and corral is indicated) consists of 105^ caballerias : the radius of an hato, or estate for large cattle, is 10,000 varas or 2 Cuban leagues, its circuit (a polygon of 72 sides) 12 leagues, its surface 12^ square leagues or 1, 684| caballerias of land; the radius of a corral, or estate for small cattle, is 5,000 varas, or one Cuban league, its circuit ,(a polygon of 72 sides) 6 2-10 leagues, and area 3 square leagues, or 421 1-9 caballerias ;* a corte de ingenio con- tains 30 to 40 caballerias of land ; cafelales, potreros, tobacco vegas estancias are of various extent, but commonly contain from 6 to 12 caballerias the first, 6 to 40 the second, and ^ to 6 the last. Dry Measure. — The box of sugar is 5 cuartas (quarters of a vara) long, 2 high, and 3 wide, and contains from 16 to 22 arrobas net of white sugar.f The hogshead, or bocoy, used for Muscovado sugar, is of three sizes, containing from 40 to 60 arrobas net. The bag of coffee is%5 cuartas long and 3^ in diameter, and contains 6 to 8 arrobas of coffee. The saca, or sack, of coal is equal to the coffee-bag ; the saco, or bag, of coal is half a saca. The carga, or load, of tobacco is 2 ter- cios, or bales ; the tercio is 1 vara long, f wide, and \ high, and con- tains 70 manojos of libra tobacco (which is the finest quality) weighing * There are very few complete hatos and corrales. t When it contains less than 16 arrobas it is called estuclie, or case, and is not ad- mitted in trade. The tare (weight of the cask, leather straps, and the hooks for weighing) is graduated as 57 pounds. The tare of a hogshead of Muscovado sugar, 110 to 120 pounds ; of a bag of coffee, 2 pounds ; and of a tercio of tobacco, 12 pounds. 08 . Cuba: 5 to 7 arrobas, and of other qualities, 80 manojos, weighing 4 to 8 arrobas ; each manojo contains 4 gavillas, and each gavilla 25 leaves if libra tobacco ; 30, if injured first quality ; 85, if second quality ; 40, if third ; 45, if fourth. The term gavilla is also applied to that portion of tobacco which may be contained in the ring formed by the thumb and forefinger, used in the case of injured fifth or sixth quality tobacco, or cuttings to serve for filling. The marquetq^of wax is £ vara long, £ wide, and J high, and varies in weight. The fanega of maize, or Indian corn, contains, in the western part of the island, 1,000 ears, or 8 arro- bas when off the husk; in Trinidad, Villa Clara, and Santo Espiritu, 866 ears (mazorcas) ; in Puerto Principe, where it is termed seron in- stead of fanega, 800 ears ; in Cuba it is sold off the husk by the barrel, which contains 1,000 to 1,200 ears, or 180 pounds. A seron or caballo (horse-load) of plantains contains 60 manos, and each mano 5 to 7 plantains if machos, or large, or 10 to 12 if hembr as, or small ones ; in Cuba they are sold by the hundred, each carga or load containing 275 large, or 325 small plantains. The tarea of wood is 3 varas long, 1 wide, and 2 high, equal to 10 caballos ; the cuerda, or cord, of wood is 2|- varas long, 1 vara 16 inches wide, and 1 vara 16 inches high ; the caballo (horse-load) of wood contains 40 billets or splits. The legal load (for a long distance) of a carreta, or ox-cart, is 120 arrobas ; of a carreton, or dray, 40 ; and of a horse, 8. In Cuba, sugar, tobacco, and cocoa are sold by the quintal, or hundred pounds ; cotton, by the paca, or bale, of 2 varas long, 1| wide, and § high ; smdfrijoles, or pulse, by the barrel of 180 pounds. Liquid Measure. — The caneca, -6| gallons, or 10 frascos ; the frasco, 1\ litres; the frasco of gin, 1| bottles; the cuartillo, or quart, of the corporation of Havana, 86 centilitres ; the bottle (commonly used for Catalan wine and ale), 725 millilitres ; the pipa, or pipe, of Catalan wine, 24 garrafones, or 600 bottles ; the cuarterola of the same, 5 gar- rafones ; the barrica of French wine, 11 garrafones, or 280 French bottles ; the bocoy, or puncheon, is used for molasses, and contains 26 to 30 American barrels of 5£ gallons;* the molasses cask, termed bocoy de play a, commonly contains 18 barrels ; the cuarterola of molasses is half a bocoy ; the pipa of rum, 180 frascos ; the barrel of wine, 4 arrobas, or 80 bottles ; the barrel termed de conduccion, or transport- ation-barrel, contains 10 frascos ; the contrata, or contract-barrel, for molasses, contains 7 gallons at Havana, and 5g at Matanzas ; the American, or del comercio barrel, 5| gallons; the rum-barrel, 45 / * At present they are to be found as large as ISO gallons. The American gallon, which is n.sed in such cases, is equal to 5J bottles ; and the English gallon, 6£ bottles. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 69 bottles ; the flour or corn-meal barrel, 7| to 8 arrobas, or 8| American bushels; the garrafon, or demijohn, 24 to 26 bottles; the botija, or jar, of oil, 65 to 7 litres, or \ arroba. The pluma de agua, or water- pipe, or conduit laid in Havana, is 4| Castilian lineas in interior diam- eter, the linea being 1-12 of the Castilian inch. Weights — Are the same used in Spain. The tonelada or ton=20 quintals. The quintal=± arrobas=100 libras s equivalent to 46 kilo- grammes or 101.4 pounds avoirdupois. The libra or pound=2 marcos= 16 commercial onzas or ounces=256 adarmes=768 tomes=9,216 granos or grains. The pesante (in weighing silk)=£ adarme. The arrelde (in weighing fresh beef )— 4 libras or pounds. In Spain it is 4 to 10 libras. Gold and silver are weighed by the Castilian marco or mark=50 eastel- lanos=400 tomines=4,800 grains. Apothecaries' weight is the Castil- ian ounce divided into 8 drachmas=24 scruples=576 grains. Currency. — Accounts are kept in the gold and silver coins of the Peninsula, but not the reales de vellon, nor copper money ; and with the difference that the Spanish ounce of gold, or doubloon, is worth $17 instead of $16, and its aliquot parts in proportion. The peso, or dollar, is equal to 4 pesetas, either pillared or of the Spanish-American stamp, or 5 Sevillian or simple pesetas ; a pillared or Spanish- Amer- ican peseta is equal to 2 reales fuertes, or 5 reales de vellon ; a real fuerte is equal to 2 medios fuertes ; a peseta sencilla (simple) is equal to 2 reales sencillos, or 4 reales de vellon ; a real sencillo, 2 medios sencillos. The maravedi, of 34 to the real fuerte, is only used in the accounts of the intendancy and militia. *In trade, the real fuerte is divided into 4 cuartillos, or 8 octavos, fuertes, which only in the taverns is admitted in regard to the real sencillo, as chicos. The ducado is understood as 11 reales fuertes. Forces.*— The army of the Island of Cuba is in the highest state of training, discipline, and equipment, and consists of 16 regiments of in- fantry of 1,000 men each ; 2 companies of merit, with 125 men ; a staff of officers for replacement ; 2 regiments of lancers, composed of 4 squad- rons each, with a force of 602 men and 500 horses, besides 4 extra squadrons, each of 151 men and 125 horses ; a regiment of 8 batteries of foot artillery ; a company of artillery- workmen ; a brigade of 5 bat- teries (4 for mountain service, and 1 mounted) ; and a company of engineer-workmen ; making a total of veteran troops, of 17,500 infantry ; 1,808 cavalry, with 1,500 horses; 1,500 artillery, with 190 horses and mules; and 130 engineer - workmen ; together, 20,938 men and 1,690 * Both the army and navy have been greatly strengthened by additions from the peninsular forces, and also by the enrollment of the militia.— Editob. 70 Cuba : horses, exclusive of the civil guard, which also belong to the veteran corps. Besides, there are— a regiment of militia infantry ; a regiment of disciplined militia cavalry, with 781 horses ; 8 squadrons of rural troops, of 2 companies each, and 100 horses to each company ; 600 horse of the civil companies, and 140 more of the civil companies of Puerto Principe and Cuba : being a total of over 8,500 men and horses ; and, in case of need, the firemen, watchmen, safe-guards (foot and mounted), and carbineers of the customs of the island. The squadron on service at the station is composed of a frigate, with 44 guns ; 7 brigs, with 104 guns ; 11 steamers, with 54 guns ; 4 schooners, with 11 guns ; 2 boats, with 6 guns; 2 transports ; a pontoon and a ship, both dismantled : total, 25 vessels, with 219 guns and over 3,000 men. There are also being built in the Peninsula 2 steamships for this sta- tion. The personal and material force of the island belonging to its marine enrollment is as follows : 2,052 effective men ; 495 on service ; v 487 ineffective ; 7 vessels of over 400 tons ; 30 from 200 to 400 tons ; 99 from 80 to 200 tons ; 295 from 20 to 80' tons ; 208 less than 20 tons ; of foreign construction, 389 ; steamers, 20 ; minor vessels, such as boats, etc., 2,454. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 71 ADJACENT ISLANDS. ISLA DE PINOS s CAYO-KOMANO? GQAJABA, CAYO-COCO, AND TUPJGUANO. Isla de Pinos (called Evanjelista by Columbus, who discovered it in 1494) is situated 18 maritime leagues south of Batabano.* Its great- est extent is 12 Cuban leagues from north to south, and 16 from east to west, with an area of 68 square maritime leagues, or 615J square miles, and its least distance from Cuba is 16| Cuban leagues from Punta de los Barcos to Punta Carraguao. The climate is acknowledged to be one of the most salubrious, for which reason a multitude of invalids annually resort to it, especially consumptives, who frequently regain their health, which in a great measure is due to the soft and beneficial nature of its waters. The aspect of the island is most diversified and picturesque, presenting lofty mountains, extensive plains, a multitude of streams, and a notable swamp, dividing it into two unequal parts, one on the north and the other on the south. At the north are the bays of Columbo and Bibijagua ; at the west, the bay of Los Barcos, and the vast one of La Siguanea ; and at the south several coves, among which is the remark- able one of Carapachivey, whose mouth is over a quarter of a league in width. The principal capes and points are — Cabo Frances and Punta de Columbo, at the north ; Punta Buenavista and Punta de Barcos, at the west; Puntas de Fuera, De Piedra, and Cayo del Este, at the east ; and Punta Cocodrilos, on the south. The most remarkable moun- tains are — Sierra de la Canada. 551 Castilian varas above the level of the sea, and flanked by natural walls as high as 50 varas ; the Daguilla ridge, 492 varas above the level of the sea : it is shaped like a cone, clothed at the base with thick forests, and at the top only with pastur- age : its summit commands a view of the whole island; the Sierra de Caballos (358 varas in height) and that of Casas, half a league distant from one another, are of marble of all kinds and colors, the white statuary marble being as fine as that of Carrara ; the Cerros of Bacu- nagua, Malpais, and San Jose ; the Cerro de Cristales is not lofty, but * Between 21° 27' 15" and 21° 5S' 17" north lat. and 76° 11' 11" and 76° 52' 6" west long, of Cadiz. Several interesting works have been published on this island by- Messrs. Tirry, Delgado, Lanier, Piiia, Serrano, and Poey. The best, as regards the geography of the island, is that of Sr. Lanier, who was commissioned by government to survey it in 1S31. Although in the great chart of the island its area is stated at 810 square miles, only about 614 square miles are assigned to it by Sr. Lanier. 72 Cuba : is distinguished for the abundance of true rock-crystal found at its base, and which might become an object of speculation. The principal rivers are — Las Nuevas, which empties on the north, and is the largest in the island : it is formed by the streams of Callejon, Cisternas, Piedras, and El Medio : it is prevented from being navigable by a bar at its mouth allowing a draught of only four palms ; the Santa Fe, whose waters are mineral, passes by the hamlet of that name, and empties at the east : it is navigable as far as the embarcadero de Balandras, distant one and a half leagues from the mouth, affording 10 to 13 palms draft ; the Rio Sierra de Casas, passing near Nueva Gerona, is navigable for vessels drawing five and a quarter feet, which is the depth at its mouth, although farther up it is two fathoms deep for the space of a league : it is 140 varas wide at the mouth, and 70 at Nueva Gerona. There are besides, the rivers Piedra, Guayabo, Jagua, San Pedro, Siguanea, De los Indios, etc. ; the lagoon De las Guanabanas, south of Sierra de Caballos, and the notable swamp receiving the waters of the Siguanea, San Pedro, and Jagua, and dividing the island into two unequal por- tions, one on the north and the other on the south, the only communica- tion being by a very narrow neck called Cayo de Piedras : the south part presenting great keys on low, bushy, or marshy land, covered with mangroves and yana so entangled as to be impassable, and containing many lagoons full of terrapins, alligators, etc., and through the gaps, some of which are 100 varas wide, is heard the noise of interior cur- rents of water. The northern section, which is the most interesting, and extends over a surface of 74 square Cuban leagues, contains the spacious savannas and the mountains and rivers already mentioned. The island is a dependency of Havana, and is under the immediate rule of a military and political commandant, who is at the same time Di- rector of the Colony, which, under the name of Colonia de la lleina Amalia, was founded in 1828, and consists of five square Cuban leagues. Nueva Gerona, the head of the colony is an interior port, picturesquely situated at a distance of three quarters of a league from the mouth, and on the left bank, of the Rio Casas, which there has a depth of two fathoms, although at its mouth the presence of a bar only affords a draft of five and a quarter feet. The land on which the town lies is a plain between the sierras de Caballos and Casas. It contains at present four wide and straight streets, running north-west and south-east, and north-east and south-west, which is the most convenient direction in these latitudes ; there are 109 houses in 82 blocks, and 157 lots for dis- tribution ;' two public walks, a church, barracks, hospital, and free- school. Besides two fine sailing-packets, there is a steamer running weekly from Batabano to the head of the island in seven or eight hours. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 73 The town of Santa Fe, which was entirely destroyed in the hurricane of 1846, has begun to rise again within the last eight months, already containing 20 houses, and several in course of building. Its excel- lent mineral waters will cause it to nourish very soon. The popula- tion of the island in 1797 was 76, in 1828, 427, and at present is 1,400, of which 160 are colored, and the rest white. The productions are cattle, small, but affording excellent beef, which is salted and ex- ported as jerked beef, to the extent of about 150 arrobas ; a little tobacco is grown, but of the best quality. There is an abundance of two kinds of pine trees (whence the name of the island), mahogany, cedar, and other valuable trees ; marble of all sorts and colors, rock- crystal, sulphur, black sand, etc. ; also mines of silver, iron, and even quicksilver (which was assayed by Don Esteban Saba, who discovered the silver). The inhabitants are chiefly employed in raising cattle and salting beef, quarrying marble, gathering tar and pitch, making spirits of turpentine, and especially in an extensive turtle-fishery, etc. Cayo-Roman© is a long and narrow island, divided by a channel about half at mile wide. It is over 16 maritime leagues in length, and two at its broadest part, and contains 172 square miles. It is flat, the only prominences being the not lofty mountain of Silla de Cayo- Romano, seen at a distance of 24 miles, and the Loma de Aji. It lies north-west and south-east, and contains a cattle estate abounding in horned cattle and horses. The jerked beef produced here is greatly prized throughout the island. There are, also, some timber, fine pastures, and productive salt-ponds, but no streams. It belongs to the district of Guanaja, jurisdiction of Puerto Principe. Gnajaha. — This island is situated between Cayo-Romano and Punta del Sabinal; is 30 maritime miles long, about 1J wide, and 15 square miles in area ; contains three cattle estates, well watered and fertile soil, and productive salt-ponds. It belongs also to the district of Guanaja, in the jurisdiction of Puerto Principe. Cayo-Co€0§. — This island has an area of 28 square miles, and abounds in fisheries. Turiguauo. — This island has an area of 38 square miles, and runs into the coast, with which it forms the Laguna de Moron. Under the denomi- nation of islands should also be placed the keys, so-called, of Ense- nachos, with an area of 19 square miles ; Cruz, 59 square miles ; and Cayo Largo, east of Pinos, 32 square miles. 4 74 s Cuba : DESCRIPTION OF THE JURISDICTIONS. Piiiar del' Rio, or lueva Filipina** — Boundaries. — North-east, the jurisdiction of Bahia-Honda.; east, the jurisdiction of San Cristobal; and on other sides, the sea. Capital. — Pinar del Rio, a town and curacy of 350 houses and 1,500 inhabitants, and haying a municipal corporation ; situated on a rising in the vast and beautiful savanna south of the Sierra de los Organos ; dis- tant 45 leagues from Havana, whence the transit may be performed in one day by the steamer that arrives about 8 p.m. at La Coloma, only six leagues distant. The water of the rivulet Yagruma (affluent of the Guania) , which supplies the town, is excellent, coming, as it does, from pine-bearing land. The climate is so salubrious that in the year 1852, which was among the least satisfactory as regards health, the proportion of burials was only 158, to 569 christenings and 62 marriages. The in- habitants are styled Pinarienses. Petty Districts. — Pinar del Rio, Baja, Consolacion del Sur, Gruane, Mantua, and San Juan y Martinez. Communities. — Baja, a hamlet of 12 houses and 42 inhabitants ; a sub-curacy. Nombre de Dios (Baja district), a hamlet with 6 houses, 19 inhabitants, and many vegas scattered around. Mantua, a village of 40 houses and 100 inhabitants, and a sub-curacy ; it is a " dry port" of considerable trade, the shipping of which is at the bay of the same name, and that of Los Arroyos, three leagues distant, the latter being a stopping-place for the " Veguero" steamer ; it is the most westerly set- tlement in the island, being sixty-six leagues from Havana. Montezuelo (Mantua district), a hamlet of 8 houses and 40 inhabitants. Lazaro (Mantua district), a hamlet of 7 houses and 25 inhabitants. Guane, a village and sub-curacy of 24 houses and 120 inhabitants ; it was for- merly called Filipina, and was the capital of the jurisdiction. Paso- Real de Guane (Guane district), village; 25 houses, 70 inhabitants. El Sabalo (Guane district), hamlet; 11 houses, 40 inhabitants. Garay, or Bailen (Guane district), hamlet; 4 houses, 20 inhabitants; it is a stop- ping-place for steamers, and has a tobacco trade. San Juan y Mar- tinez, village, sub-curacy ; 81 houses, 170 inhabitants, and surrounded by incomparable tobacco vegas. Noda, or Bahia Galafre (San Juan y Martinez district), hamlet; 5 houses, 50 inhabitants. Punta de Cartas (district as above), two warehouses ; a stopping-plar.e for steamers. San * So called because the district was first settled at Guane, under the name of Filipina. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 75 jjuis, a village (district as before) ; 33 houses, 140 inhabitants. Colorna (Pinar del Rio district), hamlet, with 6 houses and 30 inhabitants, and a port of much trade, at the mouth of the river of that name ; six leagues distant from Pinar del Eio ; steamers stop here from Batabano, at 8 p.m. Colon (Pinar del Rio district), warehouses and port on the Co- lorna River, five and one-fourth leagues from Pinar del Rio. Consolacion Sur, an old town and sub-curacy of 76 houses and 120 inhabitants, pro- ducing in its environs the best tobacco in the world. Santa Clara, vil- lage ; 16 houses, 20 inhabitants. Herradura, village ; 10 houses, 40 in- habitants. Rio Hondo, hamlet ; 6 houses, 30 inhabitants. These three last are in the district of Consolacion del Sur. Productions. — The chief is tobacco, of a quality unrivaled in the world ; it also exports cattle and some timber, likewise mangrove bark for tanning. It is the district that most abounds in pitch-pine trees and oaks, whence* arises the peculiar flavor of its pork. On its coasts and keys, both north and south, are plenty of turtle (including the tortoise- shell kind), caguamas, sea-cows, and sponges; and iguanas and flamin- goes abound; there are numerous birds for game, including parrots,' cranes, macaws, and carpinteros ?-eales, which overrun the district; there are also nightingales, aparecidos, and a greater number of mi- gratory birds than in the eastern districts, owing to greater proximity to the continent. The climate among the mountains is the most salubri- ous on the island, and the waters of the rivulets, irrigating pine lands, are soft and excellent. There are no coffee plantations, but there are marble quarries, and mines of gold, silver, copper, coal, arsenic, and other substances. Peculiarities. — Many caves in the Guaniguanico Mountains, and the remarkable arcades on the Cuyaguateje River. Longevity. — In the hamlet of Baja there lived, in 1847, Don Jose Hernandez, aged 110, and the negro Juan Crisostomo de Consolacion, aged 115. At San Juan y Martinez died Dona Lorenza Rubi, at the age of 108. The Creole Negro Jorje Sierra, at present aged 96, has his mother living. San Cristobal.— Boundaries.— North, Bahia-Honda and Mariel ; east, San Antonio ; south, the sea ; and west, Pinar del Rio. Capital — San Cristobal, sub-curacy (removed from Santa Cruz de los Pinos) and town, with 50 houses and 270 inhabitants, and a muni- cipal corporation, 24 leagues south-west from Havana and 5 from the south coast, and crossed by the river of the same name, of excellent water. The climate is of the best, the land being elevated and dry. Petty Districts. — San Cristobal, Candelaria, Los Palacios, San Diego de los Banos, and San Marcos, or Las Mangas. Communities. — Santa Cruz de los Pinos (San Cristobal district), a 76 Cuba : hanilet, whence was transferred the church, in 1816, to San Cristobal, Santa Cruz (San Cristobal district), hamlet; three leagues east of San Cristobal, with 4 houses and 20 inhabitants. Candelaria, a curacy and town in a picturesque and salubrious situation, containing 54 houses and 360 inhabitants. Bayate (Candelaria district), a village, with 13 houses and 70 inhabitants. Las Mangas de Rio Grande (head of the district of San Marcos), a village of 19 houses and 100 inhabitants. Mojanga (San Marcos district), a hamlet ; 6 houses, 130 inhabitants. Guanacaje, a hamlet and sub-curacy (San Marcos district). Palacios, town and sub-curacy, on the river of that name, 31 leagues from Havana, with 67 houses and 320 inhabitants. La Isabela (Palacios district), hamlet ; 5 houses, 20 inhabitants. San Diego de los Banos, or de las Galeras, a town of 50 houses and 130 inhabitants, permanent population, for during the bathing season (February to May) there are over 2,500 visitors ;* it is intended to build a church here. Paso Real de San Diego (above district), 50 houses and 240 inhabitants. Productions. — Tobacco, cattle, coffee, a little sugar, and wood of the finest descriptions, which is not exported because of the difficulty of transportation. On the keys at the south are found turtle, tortoise- shell, caguamas, flamingoes, etc. Peculiarities. — The celebrated baths of San Diego. In the mount- ains are found lithographic stone, agate, and other precious stones ; and the Cusco Mountain is the haunt of runaway negroes. B a Ma-Honda. — Boundaries. — North, the sea ; east, the jurisdiction of Mariel ; south-east, that of San Cristobal ; and south and west, that of Pinar del Rio. Capital. — Bahia-Honda, a town with a municipal corporation, 78 houses and 570 inhabitants, situated half a league from the bottom of the port of that name, and 25 leagues from Havana. Nearly all the houses are built of palm, which gives the town an unfavorable appearance. Petty Districts. — Bahia-Honda, Consolacion del Norte, Las Pozas, and San Diego de Nunez. Communities. — San Diego de Nunez, town and curacy, with 70 houses and 271 inhabitants. Las Pozas, or Cacarajicaras, a village and sub-curacy, 29 leagues from Havana, with 25 houses and 98 inhab- itants. El Morrillo, hamlet and embarking-place, with 5 houses and 13 inhabitants. La Mulata, hamlet of 12 houses and 36 inhabitants, and stopping-place of the steamers of the north coast. La Vega de Ferral, hamlet, near the preceding, with 4 houses and 16 inhabitants. The last three are in the district of Las Pozas. * See the description of these baths by "Dr. Isidro Sanchez, 1S51. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 77 Productions. — Sugar, cattle, copper, coffee, coal (mineral and vege- table) ; and on the keys at the north, turtle, caguamas, sea-cows, sponges, etc. Peculiarities. — Mineral waters in the Aguacate, and copper mines in the district of Consolacion del Norte. The territory is hilly, and some of its loftiest summits (such as the Guajaibon and Cajalbana) are extinct volcanoes. On Cayo-Blanco lives a fisherman 114 years old, whose son, aged over 80, is employed on the Regla steamers. Mariel.— Boundaries. — On the north, the sea ; east, the jurisdic- tions of Santiago and San Antonio ; south, that of San Cristobal ; and west, that of Bahia-Honda. Capital. — Guanajay, a curacy and town with municipal assembly, situated two and one-half leagues from the port of Mariel, and at the junction of the northern and southern roads of Vuelta-Abajo, and sur- rounded by valuable properties which have influenced to render it one of the most commercial districts in the island. The town is regularly built ; the situation is cheerful, and the climate cool and salutary. It contains a barracks, hospital, schools, and good hotels, among the best of which is that of the Five Nations. The distance from Havana is ten and one-half leagues by the causeway, and 21 English miles by the rail- road, of which it is the western extremity. It> contains 485 houses and 3,000 inhabitants. Petty Districts. — Mariel, Cabanas, Cayajabos, Guanajay, Guay- abal, and Puerta de la Guira, Quiebra-Hacha, and Seiba del Agua. Communities. — Mariel, or Muelle de Tablas, a curacy, port, and town of 175 houses 'and 1,296 inhabitants. It lies 14 leagues west of Havana, and 2i from Guanajay, the terminus of the railroad of that name, to which place a causeway is being built. It was an authorized port and the capital of the jurisdiction until the 1st of January, 1854. Santa Cristo de la Sabana (Mariel district), with 4 houses and 20 in- habitants. Cabanas, a curacy, without a church since 1885,* and town, situated a short distance east of the bottom of the port of the same name, with 106 houses and 500 inhabitants. Amiot, a bay at the bottom of Port Mariel, with a hamlet (in the district and port of Cabanas), con- taining 10 houses and 50 inhabitants. Cayajabos, a curacy and town of 49 houses and 300 inhabitants. Puerta de la Guira, a curacy and village of 20 houses and 130 inhabitants. Artemisa (in the preceding district), a curacy and town of 54 houses and 280 inhabitants. When coffee commanded good prices, this district was appropriately styled the * There is a temporary oratory in one of the house3, pending the erection of the new church. 78 Cuba : Garden of Cuba, for the beautiful coffee plantations that it contained.* Las Canas, in the same district, a hamlet of 11 houses and 100 inhabit- ants. Quiebra-Hacha, a curacy and village of 24 houses (including the hotel of the Five Nations) and 160 inhabitants. San Luis de la Seiba, or Seiba del Agua, a curacy and town of 60 houses and 330 inhabitants. Virtudes and Capellanias, both in the preceding districts, hamlets ; the first with 4 houses and 13 inhabitants, and the second 30 houses and 130 inhabitants. Guayabal, curacy and village with 20 houses and 60 in- habitants. Banes, a town in the preceding district, with 60 houses and 279 inhabitants, and resorted to for sea-bathing. Productions.— Sugar, coffee, wax, tobacco, coal, cattle, and pottery. Peculiarities. — Mineral waters at Charco-Azul. In the district of Seiba del Agua died Don Francisco de Castaneda, aged 119 years. San Antonio. — Boundaries.— North, the jurisdiction of Santiago, east, that of Bejucal ; west, those of Mariel and San Cristobal ; and south, the sea. Capital. — San Antonio Abad, or de Los Banos, a villa, or chartered town, since 1795. Situated south-west of Havana, on dry and rocky land. It is planned in the best manner, with right-lined streets, 690 well-built houses, 2,890 inhabitants, a theatre, philharmonic society, schools, cavalry barracks, etc. The bread made here is of so excellent a quality that it is supplied to Havana. The river of the same name, after crossing the town, disappears in a cavity at the root of a remark- able seiba tree south of the town, constituting one of its greatest curi- osities. The distance from Havana is eight and a-half leagues by the directest common road, and eight by the railroad, the train of which arrives at 83 o'clock and leaves at 11. Petty Districts. — Alquizar, Giiira de Helena, and Vereda Nueva. Communities. — Alquizar, a sub-curacy and town, 10 leagues from Havana, with 108 houses and 562 inhabitants. The environs, like those of Puerta de la Giiira, contained such charming coffee estates at the time when the berry commanded a good price, that, like Artemisa (in the Mariel), it also was called the Garden of Cuba. Palenque, or Guaiba- coa (Alquizar district), a village of 14 houses and 50 inhabitants. Gua- nimar (Playa de) , an embarkmg-place and hamlet (Alquizar district), of 8 houses and 42 inhabitants. Giiira de Melena, a sub-curacy and town of 146 houses and 496 inhabitants. Cajio (Banos de), in the preceding district, a hamlet of huts on the beach. Govea, a hamlet of 5 houses and 26 inhabitants. Vereda Nueva, a curacy and town of 158 houses and 606 inhabitants. Caimito and Tumba-cuatro, in the preceding dis- * See our modern illustrated map of the island. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 79 trict ; the first a town of 46 houses and 203, inhabitants, and the second a hamlet of 7 houses and 24 inhabitants. PEaejLiARiTiEs. — The territory is among the most level and fertile of the island, although of the number least favored in regard to rivers. Havana^ — Boundaries. — North, the sea; east, the jurisdiction of Guanabacoa and Santa Maria del Rosario ; south and west, that of Santiago. Capital. — Habana (San Cristobal de), the capital city of the island,* situated on the margin of the fine port of its name, on a peninsula of level and calcareous soil. It is a fortified place of the first order, divided into two parts — the intramural, or walled, and the extramural — and is sur- rounded by imposing forts, among which that of la Cabana is one of the largest in the world. The streets, although generally right-lined, are mostly narrow, with the exception of the principal ones, which are paved with granite ; the rest suffer from the great and active trade, coupled with the deluging rains of the tropics. The principal ones are lighted with gas. It contains a cathedral (where the remains of Christopher Columbus are deposited) and several other churches; a court of judica- ture ; university ; seminary ; college ; lyceum ; a splendid theatre, capable of accommodating 6,000 persons, and where Italian opera companies of the first order have performed ; charitable asylums ; squares ; beautiful shaded walks and spacious saloons for recreation, and a fine military band plays every evening. The picturesque environs of the city are embellished by beautiful country-seats and extensive walks, affording a most agreeable picture, enlivened during the fine tropical evenings by a multitude of promenaders in fine carriages. There are 15 typographi- cal printing and eight lithographic establishments, at present issuing four daily and three or four monthly and semi-monthly publications. Besides the principal extramural wards which form the compact part, are includ- ed those of Atares, Pilar, Villanueva, Jesus del Monte, and Cerro, which are commodiously and economically communicated with by means of omnibuses continually circulating among them. Havana likewise com- prises the towns of Regla and Casa-Blanca on the opposite side of the port, communicating with the first by means of steam ferry-boats that start from each side every five minutes. Havana contains within its walls 3,810 houses, and without, in the chief wards, 8,542 ; together, 12,352 houses, and a population of 108,083, exclusive of the troops, transient residents, etc. The populated parts of the wards of Pilar, Atares, Villanueva, Jesus del Monte, Cerro, and Arroyo-Polo contain * See our illustrated map of the city and environs, to be had of all booksellers in Havana, together with the ancient and modern map of the island, new edition, also illustrated. 80 Cub A : 2,004 houses and 17,832 inhabitants. It comprises within the walls a peopled area of 12 caballerias of land ; and without the walls, as far as Chavez bridge, including the peopled part of San Lazaro and Pueblo- Nuevo, 25 caballerias ,■ and adding thereto the 14^ caballerias com- prised by the wards of Villanueva, Atares, Pilar, Jesus del Monte, Arroyo-Polo, and Vibora, and 6^ by that of Cerro, which are all united to the city, the total is 57^ caballerias of land.* The port of Havana is one of the safest, most picturesque, and best frequented in the world, the arrivals in the month of March frequently amounting to 22 vessels in one day. It is considered the sixth in order of commercial importance^ The climate is .as healthy as any in the island, and would be rendered still more so by filling up a small swamp in the eastern part of the port, from which direction the breeze blows upon the city. The community is supplied with water from the Almendares Kiver by means of pipes and a trench, which serve to irrigate the land in its course, and 1 also to work several machines.^ This city gave birth to the historians Urrutia, Arrate, and Valdez ; the distinguished writer Countess de * Though in the last statistical returns it is stated that Havana and its suburbs as far as Chavez bridge, only comprises 17 caballerias of land, Don Mariano Carles (surveyor) and the author have found (5,780,000 square Cuban varas including as far as Chavez bridge and the populated part of San Lazaro and PuebloNuevo • 2 760 000 the populated area of Horc6n, Jesus del Monte, and La Vibora ; and 1 200 000 square varas Oubanas the area of Cerro. The populated area of Madrid contains W Cuban caballerias; of Sevilla, 161- caballerias ; Barcelona, IT* ; New York, 153 • Philadel phia, 65 ; Baltimore, 42 ; New Orleans, 72 ; Boston, 31. t The only ports that exceed Havana in commercial importance are London Liver- pool, New York Marseilles, and New Orleans; and it is superior to Eio Janeiro, Bos- ton, Havre, PhUadelplna, Newcastle, Hamburg, St. Petersburg, Cowes. Bordeaux Constantinople, etc. The revenue from maritime customs at the port of Marseilles in 1851 was 30,677,000 francs ; that of Havre, 26,164,000 francs : Paris, 11 570 000 Br deaux, 10,460,000; Havana, $5,797,476, or 28.937,880 francs; and Barcelona (in' 1S52* which was the most satisfactory year), $2,000,000. Although in the following comnar' ison of arrivals and clearances for several of the United States ports in 1850" and Hi vana in 1851, it would appear that New Orleans was inferior to Havana in the amount of shipping such is not the case when we add the coasting-trade of the former with at nZgto? %£* B0St0D ' "^ ^ t0tal *» — * ~* *»* VESSELS INWAED AND OUTWAED, EXCEPT COASTWISE l™j°* *& 8s& °ts- B?» P1 " ladel P h "' 537 132,370 479 m fiifi Sir 6 .:::::::::::; - SZ Z S Physical, Politic al, and Industrial. 81 Merlin ; the philosopher Varela ; the eloquent and erudite theologian Don Augustin Caballero; the rhetorical Mendoza; the enlightened physician Romay ; the poets Zequeira, Blanchie, and Foxa ; the juris- consults Urrutias, Ayala,. Sans, Gonzalez, Gato, Ponce de Leon, Esco- vedo, -Santos- Suarez, Govantes, and Bermudez ; the archbishop Don Luis Penalver y Cardenas ; the statesmen Don Francisco Arango and Don Claudio M. Pinillos ; the witty comedian Covarrubias ; the generals Count de Reviliagigedo, Diaz-Pimienta, Count Mopox y de Jaruco, Ur- rutia (Don Carlos), O'Farrill, Quesada, Aristizabal, Zayas, Moscoso, Castillo (Marquis of San Felipe y Santiago), Montalvo (Don Juan) ; of Don Jorge Maria de la Torre, Counsellor of State and Minister of War ; and Don Antonio Caro, Counsellor of State. The inhabitants are termed Habaneros, although those residing without the walls are vul- garly called hueseros. Petty Districts.— Puentes-Grandes, Quemados, Arroyo-Naranjo, Calvario, and Pinos Island. Communities.— Pescante, a village between the Morro and Cabana castles (Casa-Blanca district); with 22 houses and 60 inhabitants. Casa-Blanca, a town (ecclesiastically dependent on the cathedral of Ha- vana), situated on the northern margin of the port of Havana, and con- taining 244 houses and 1,070 inhabitants. Regla, a town and sub- curacy, with 1,278 houses and 7,240 inhabitants, situated on the eastern margin of the port of Havana, with which city it communicates every five minutes by steamers. It contains a large foundry, fine warehouses, Kiver; and the following analysis has been made by Sr. Casaseca, Director of the Institute for Chemical Investigation : Almendare?. Yento. Seine. Water from Water from Water taken n„~-u^ • -j , the Aqueduct. the Springs. below Paris Carbonic acid gas (centilitres) 56.2 43.9 12.5 Eesidue on evaporation (grammes) 4.492 &956 2MB Sulphate of lime 172 ^416 ^295 Carbonate of lime 2.917 1.920 L940 Carbonate of magnesia 321 .385 Carbonated oxide of iron 116 ,080 Silicate of iron 048 0S0 Chloride of sodium 733 1000 Deliquescent salts _ __ otq Organic extractive matter 185 ,075 '— From this comparison it appears that the Vento waters contain rather less carbonate of lime than those of the Seine, and in that respect are better. It is true that those of Yento contain nearly one third more of salenateor sulphate of lime than those of the Seme, but on the other *hand, the chloride of sodium and carbonate of magnesia held by the former should render them more digestive. According to recent analyses the Seine water does contain common salt. 4* 82 Cuba : and a good careening-place. Both Casa-Blanca and Regla are wards of Havana. Calvario, a town and sub-curacy, 2£ leagues from Havana, with 114 houses and 500 inhabitants. Mantilla (Calvario district), a village, with 22 houses and 106 inhabitants. Chorrera del Sur (Cal- vario district), a hamlet, 14 houses and 49 inhabitants. La Chorrera (Puentes-Grandes district), a village at the mouth of the river Almen- dares, 2 leagues from Havana, with 28 houses and 180 inhabitants, and is a resort for rural recreation. Arroyo-Naranjo, a town, with 68 houses and 191 inhabitants. San Juan, in the preceding district, a hamlet of 9 houses and 24 inhabitants. El Puente, a .hamlet, with 5 houses and 19 inhabitants. Arroyo-Polo (ward of Havana), a village of 23 houses and 110 inhabitants. Mordazo (Puentes-Grandes district), a curacy and town of 84 houses and 335 inhabitants. Puentes-Grandes, a town without a church, but united with Mordazo by a bridge, and containing 140 houses and 699 inhabitants ; La Seiba (above district), a hamlet between the preceding town and Quemado Viejo, with 12 houses and 40 inhabitants. Quemado Viejo, or Curazao, a hamlet in Quema- clos district, with 8 houses and 112 inhabitants. Quemados, a curacy and town of 100 houses and 520 inhabitants. Marianao (Puentes- Grandes district), a town, 3 leagues east of Havana, on the fine cause- way of Guanajay, with bathing establishments and a medicinal spring. It is a place of resort from May to September, and contains a grove arranged for balls, etc. Population, 540, in 126 houses. La Playa de Marianao (Quemados district), a village, with 37 houses and 118 inhabitants. Uribazo (Quemados district), a hamlet near Marianao. Luyano, a village, with 14 houses and 90 inhabitants. San Antonio Chiquito, a town of the rural ward Del Principe (Havana), with 87 houses and 509 inhabitants. Nueva Gerona and Banos de Santa Fe (see Island of Pinos). Productions. — The peculiar productions of the jurisdiction of Ha- vana are excellent fruit, garden vegetables from the very fertile and well-cultivated lands in the vicinity, and lime; and in the island of Pinos (belonging to the jurisdiction), those already enumerated in the description of that island. Peculiarities. — In the mountains near Luyano copper ore is found ; calcareous and schistose rock abounds, and there are also quarries of granite. Santiago* — Boundaries.— On the north, the sea and part of the jurisdiction of Havana ; east, that of Santa Maria del Rosario ; south, those of Bejucal and San Antonio ; and west, that of Mariel. Capital. — Santiago de las Vegas, a curacy and city, situated on level land of a reddish color and fertile, five leagues south of Havana, one Physical, Political, and Industrial. 83 from Bejueal, and half a league from the Rincon station. It is regularly planned with right-lined streets,* and contains 425 houses and 2,274 inhabitants. The climate is very wholesome, being the only town among those surrounded by the cholera that has escaped that epidemic. It contains a theatre and a philharmonic society, and a barracks is being built for climatization. The inhabitants are called Santiagueros. Rural Districts. — Rancho-Boyeros, Calabazar, Santa Maria, and Rincon de Calabazas Petty Districts. — Arroyo Arenas, Cano, Guatao, Bauta, and Uba- jay, or Guajay. Communities. — Nueva Cristma, or Calabazar, a village with 28 houses and 102 inhabitants. El Rincon de Calabazas, a village with 16 houses and 68 inhabitants. Rancho de Boyeros, a village with 36 houses and 140 inhabitants. Ubajai, or Guajai, a curacy and town with 69 houses and 221 inhabitants. Guatao, sub-curacy and town, five leagues from Havana, with 108 houses and 574 inhabitants. Cruz de Piedra, or Camino Real (Guatao district), a village of 17 houses and 113 inhabitants. Can- grejeras (Guatao district), a village with 28 houses and 114 inhabitants. Santa Ana (Guatao district), a village on the beach of that name, with 44 houses and 49 inhabitants. El Cano, a curacy and town, four and three- fourth leagues from Havana, with 178 houses and 791 inhabitants. La Liza (Cano district), a village with 13 houses and 57 inhabitants. Ar- royo Arenas, a town with church, four leagues from Havana, with 69 houses and 301 inhabitants. Cuatro Caminos, a hamlet with 10 houses and 32 inhabitants. Cantarranas, a village with 15 houses (on but one side of the road) and 66 inhabitants. Jaimanitas, a village with 21 houses and 68 inhabitants. Santo Domingo, a hamlet with 8 houses and 22 inhabitants. (The last four are in Arroyo Arenas district.) Hoyo Colorado (Bauta district), a town seven leagues from Havana, with 91 houses and 505 inhabitants. Corralillo (Bauta district), a town with 37 houses and 136 inhabitants. Productions. — Sugar, coffee, fruit, yuca bread, or casabe, starch, garden vegetables, and pottery. Peculiarities. — The coast is bordered with lagoons. There is ex- cellent clay for pottery. Bejueal. — Boundaries. — North, the jurisdictions of Santiago and Santa Maria del Rosario ; east, that of Guines ; south, the sea ; and west, the jurisdiction of San Antonio. Capital.— Bejueal (San Felipe y Santiago), a sub-curacy and city, founded in 1704, on level but high land (100 Castilian varas), at the * See the map of this city, its jurisdiction, and the most of its towns, about to be published by Sr. Carles. 84 Cuba : foot of the Sierra de Bejucal, and containing 438 houses and 2,264 in- habitants. The city is regularly laid out, and the climate so salubrious that it affords instances of greater longevity than any other town in the island, as may be shown by the following examples, viz. : Felipe, an Indian, died at the age of 180 ; Doiia Dorotea Toledo, at 125 ; Don Pedro Acosta, at 116 ; Don Juan de Matos, at 103 ; Dona Teodora Do- minguez and Dona Juana Martinez, at 104 ; Don Jose Marrero, at 112. The distance from Havana is six leagues, and eight from the roadstead of Batabano, and is the station of the principal trunk of the Havana railroad, whose passenger- train arrives at 1\ o'clock, and re- turns to Havana at 8 o'clock. Petty Districts.— Batabano, Gabriel, Quibican, and San Antonio de las Vegas. Communities.— La Salud (Santa Cristo de la), or Gabriel, a curacy and village, with 31 houses and 214 inhabitants. Giiiro de Bonigal (preceding district), a hamlet with 19 houses and 92 inhabitants. Quibican, sub-curacy and town, half a league from the Havana rail- road, with 166 houses and 592 inhabitants. Buenaventura (Quibican district), a village with 18 houses and 108 inhabitants. San Felipe (Quibican district), a hamlet and railroad-station, with 7 houses and 32 inhabitants. Giiiro Marrero, a village with 18 houses and 108 in- habitants. San Antonio de las Vegas a curacy and town with 114 houses and 610 inhabitants. Batabano, a curacy and town, situated one league from the roadstead of that name, with 143 houses and 898 inhabitants. La Playa, a town, and southern terminus of the Havana railroad, and which, being situated on the Batabano roadstead, is gene- rally known by that name ; it contains 54 houses and 222 inhabitants. Productions.— Coffee, sugar, yuca bread, starch, maize, garden vegetables, fruit, and poultry, hogs, etc. Timber is scarce. The soil is fruitful, but probably least watered of any in the island. Peculiarities. — All the coast is swampy. Besides the cases of longevity already cited in Bejucal, Quibican district affords that of the negress Maria Mcolasa Perez, who died at the age of 110 years. nauafeacoa.— Boundaries.— North, the sea ; east, the jurisdictions of Jaruco and Rosario ; and west, that of Havana. Capital. — Guanabacoa (la Asuncion de), a curacy and villa since 1555, situated less than a league east of the port of Havana. It is ir- regularly laid out, and contains 29 streets, 1,777 houses (mostly of bad appearance), and 8,100 inhabitants.* It has a philharmonic society. The climate, though dry and salutary, is hot during the day, and cool * See map of this town and jurisdiction, by Sr. Carles. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 85 at night, even in summer. The medicinal virtues of the waters of the rivulets surrounding and running through the town, and the facilities of communication with Havana (by means of a railroad of four miles to Regla, and a causeway of half a league to the same town), attract many families during the bathing season, which extends from 1st May to 1st September. Notwithstanding the height of 80 varus on which the town is situated, the wells are of very little depth. The inhabitants are called Guanabacoenses, vulgarly Cazueleros. Petty Districts.— Bacuranao, Buenavista, Guanabo, Pepe- Antonio (formerly Penalver), and San Miguel del Padron. Communities.— San Miguel del Padron, a curacy and village of 14 houses and 47 inhabitants. Jacomino and Luyano, in the preceding district ; the first, a hamlet of 5 houses and 24 inhabitants ; the second" a village of 18 houses and 49 inhabitants. Dolores, or Bacuranao, a curacy and village of 82 houses and 149 inhabitants. La Playa, or Boca de Bacuranao, in the preceding district, a village of 25 houses and 88 inhabitants. Penalver, or Guadalupe (Pepe- Antonio district), a curacy and village of 29 houses and 121 inhabitants. Guanabo, a curacy and village, seven leagues from Havana, with 44 houses and 212 in- habitants. La Boca de Guanabo-(Guanabo district), a village of 8 houses and 54 inhabitants. Rincon de Sibarimar (Guanabo district) , a village of 17 houses and 60 inhabitants. Jiquiabo (Guanabo district), a curacy and hamlet of 8 houses and 34 inhabitants. Boca de Jaruco (Guanabo district), a hamlet, situated on the western side of the mouth of Jaruco River, with 12 houses and 32 inhabitants. Cojimar (Buenavista dis- trict), a village and port with 36 houses and 137 inhabitants; it affords abundance of game and fishing, for which purpose it is resorted to. Productions.— Excellent casabe, or yuca bread, coffee, sugar, gar- den vegetables, fruit, poultry, mineral coal, pottery, and very fine steel cutlass-blades of five cuartas. Peculiarities.— Wells afford water at the depth of three feet, al- though the land of the whole jurisdiction is high. In the district of Buenavista died the negress Juliana, at the age of 115 years, and Dona Francisca Alvarez, at the age of 109 ; and in 1847 there lived in the district of Penalver Don Anselmo Llerena, aged 114 years. Santa Maria del Rosario.— Boundaries.— North, the jurisdiction of Guanabacoa ; east, that of Jaruco ; south, those of Giiines and Bejucal : and west, those of Santiago and Havana. Capital.— Santa Maria del Rosario, a city founded in 1733, situated on high land, two leagues south-east of Guanabacoa 'and four from Havana. It contains 7 streets, 110 houses, and 450 inhabitants. Petty Districts.— Santa Maria del Rosario, Managua, San Jose de 86 Cuba : las Lajas, Tapaste, and San Francisco de Paula (a dependency of the chief town). Communities. — San Francisco de Paula (dependency of the capital town), a village of 26 houses and 150 inhabitants. San Jose de las Lajas, a curacy and town of 164 houses and 1,050 inhabitants. Jamaica, in the preceding district, a hamlet of 18 houses and 150 inhabitants. Managua, a curacy and village, six leagues south of Havana, with 30 houses and 400 inhabitants. Nazareno (Managua district), a town of 57 houses and 300 inhabitants. Tapaste, a curacy and town of 100 houses and 900 inhabitants. "Productions. — Fruit, garden vegetables, maize, sugar, coffee, and tobacco. Peculiarities. — This jurisdiction does not possess a single port. In Managua district died Dona Felipa Jorje, at the age of 120 years. €uines. — Boundaries — North, the jurisdiction of Jaruco ; east, that of Matanzas; south, that of Cienfuegos and the sea; west, those of Bejucal and Santa Maria del Rosario. Capital. — San Julian de los Gruines, a villa situated on level and ex- ceedingly fertile land, with 541 houses and 3,542 inhabitants, a good church and barracks. The streets are pretty wide. The distance south- east from Havana, by a fine causeway, is 12 leagues, but by railroad, 45 miles. Communities. — Guara, a curacy and village near the railroad sta- tion, with 42 houses and 176 inhabitants. La Catalina, a curacy and town of 79 houses and 231 inhabitants. San Nicolas, a curacy and vil- lage with 22 houses and 88 inhabitants. El Jobo (S. Nicolas district), 6 houses and 27 inhabitants. Melena del Sur, a town with 72 houses and 309 inhabitants. Rosario, in preceding district, a hamlet and em- barking-place, with 5 houses and 10 inhabitants. Madruga, a curacy and town of 159 houses and 767 inhabitants, and mineral waters. Pipian, a sub- curacy and village with 24 houses and 120 inhabitants, in Madruga district. Nueva Paz or Los Palos, a town with the title of city, 20 leagues from Havana, containing 112 houses, a church, and 655 inhab- itants. La Jagua, in the preceding district, a hamlet of 10 houses and 48 inhabitants. Productions. — Sugar, coffee, tobacco, wax, fruit, birds, and hogs. Deer abounds. There are marble quarries at Pipian, and hot baths at Madruga. Peculiarities. — The Loma de la Candela, " whence the most mag- nificent view in the world may be enjoyed," as Humboldt remarked, in allusion to the splendid valley of Giiines. In this jurisdiction alone has the advantageous system of irrigation been availed of. There are magnificent ingenios, or sugar plantations. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 87 Jaruco. — Boundaries. — North, the sea; east, the jurisdiction of Matanzas ; south, that of Giiines ; and west, those of Santa Maria del Rosario and Guanabacoa. Capital. — Jaruco, a curacy and city since 1790, situated on the sum- mit of a hill, well planned and paved. It contains an excellent bar- racks, and 105 houses with 611 inhabitants. The climate is as salubrious as at Holguin, Bejucal, and Pinos island. The water drank is very soft. The distance from Havana, 10 leagues, and 12 from Matanzas. The inhabitants are styled Jaruquenos. Petty Districts. — Aguacate, Bainoa, Bio Blanco del Sur or Casi- guas, Jibacoa, and Rio Blanco del Norte. Communities. — Casiguas, a curacy and hamlet ; head of the district of Bio Blanco del Sur, with 6 houses and 18 inhabitants. San Antonio de Bio Blanco del Norte, a curacy and town of 50 houses and 311 inhabitants. San Matias de Rio Blanco, in the preceding district, a curacy and village of 35 houses and 79 inhabitants, situated on the roadstead at the mouth of the Jaruco Biver. Bio Jaruco (belonging to the head of the juris- diction), a hamlet of 11 houses and 28 inhabitants. Jibacoa, a curacy", " dry port," and town, 15 leagues from Havana, with 76 houses and 405 inhabitants. The port of Butinel, which serves for its shipping trade, als- bears its name. Santa Cruz (Jibacoa district), a village of 21 houses and 75 inhabitants. Aguacate, a curacy and town, 15 leagues east of Havana, with an oratory, 33 houses, and 177 inhabitants. Cara- ballo (Bainoa district), a curacy and town of 55 houses and 361 inhab- itants. Peculiarities. — In 1847 there lived in the city of Jaruco, in good health and in a robust condition, Don Luis Garcia, Don Francisco Rod- riguez, Don Geronimo de los Santos, and Dona Maria de Regla Sanchez, all at the age of 103 years ; and there died Don Felipe Gonzalez, aged 119, and Dona Antonia Jorje, aged 120. Matanzas. — Boundaries. — North, the sea ; east, the jurisdiction of Cardenas ; south, that of Cienfuegos ; and west, those of Jaruco and Giiines. Capital. — Matanzas, a city, situated at the bottom of the angle of the harbor of that name; founded in 1693 on the Indian town of Yu- cayo ; it is well built, and occupies an area of 22 caballerias, contain- ing 4,000 houses and 26,000 inhabitants, including the bridge-connected wards of Versalles and Pueblo-Nuevo, separated from the city, the first by the Yumuri Biver, and the second by the San Juan. Matanzas is a curacy, and one of the best planned cities in the island : the streets, which run north to south and east to west, are somewhat wider than those of Havana, and the land is undulated in some places. Although 88 Cuba: it is watered by two rivers, the inhabitants are supplied, for drinkimr The climate is unhealthy. It contains two-colleges, two printing estab- lishments (one of which publishes the Aurora^ daily P papt) * % is divided into eight wards. The inhabitants are called mLIcL, and island, although not as concerns population or buildino-s * 875 ZZl^Tl S ^' m ° Ch "' ' C " aCy and ^ e ° ot 88 h °»™ ■* Le rf br , F ? nCIS0 ° de PaUla ' in the abOTe di ^ict, a mil- age of 2b houses and 144 inhabitants. Cabezas (San Antonio de las) a curacy and village with 48 bouses and 317 inhabitants. Bancs de San tZtlaio^V'f ( ' a i-iet with houses and 10 inhabitants. Santa Ana, a curacy and village of SO hZUf 6 f inhab i tan \ La GUmabMa < S ™ ta Ana Strict, ! anfcolislc r U " ?t Mhabitants ' at a" junction of the Matan as 527 inh b t , t\- AlaCraMS 't a t»™ »d curacy of 75 honses and tilTtv of b •, f^ (Lim ° nar diStfiCt) ' a hamkt at the «*"» «• tamity of the raiboad of that name, with 10 honses and 32 inhabitants. Union or Reyes (Alaeranes district), a village of 18 honses and 104 in- Bolond™ 1 ^! m . ot *>» Havana and Matanzas railroads. J Bolondron Alaeranes district), a hamlet of 13 honses and 109 inhab- itants station of the ra.lroad between Matanzas and Isabel. La Ber- meja ^Alaeranes district), a hamlet and enracy of 10 honses and 72 inhabits, and i Sa railroad sM ^ j^ & ^ 30 honses and 180 inhabitants, situated very near the Coliseo railroad Bancs de San Miguel (Limonar district), a hamlet of 27 honses and 18 inhabitants • Cammar or Tumbadero, an inland port and hamlet of 8 houses and 8 inhabitants. San Mignel de Camarioca (Caniniar dis- tant) bamle of 13 honses and 106 inhabitants. Boca de Camarioca (Can- imar district), hamlet of 17 honses and 44 inhabitants. Corral-Nuevo a village of 11 houses and 38 inhabitants. Canasi, in the preceding dis- trict, a village and enracy of 15 honses and 41 inhabitants. Sur °idero SabaX IT' ^f*' " haml6t ° f 7 h0USeS and 21 -habitants. Sabamlla del Oomendador, a curacy and town of 120 honses and 466 inhabitants, and station of the Matanzas railroad. * See map of this city and jurisdiction by Sr. Picbardo t Twenty-seven leagues from Havana. Physical, Political, and Industrial. g9 Kural Districts.— Alacranes, Cabezas, Corral-Nuevo, Camarioca, Canimar, Limonar. Seiba-mocha, Sabanilla, and Santa Ana. Productions.— Sugar, coffee, rum, molasses, tobacco, sweetmeats, garden vegetables, and fruit. Peculiarities.— The land is billy, fertile, and contains many valu- able plantations. There are several caverns, the most remarkable of which is that of Yumuri, and the splendid valley of that name which has an entrance near the city. Near Corral-Falso, Don Juan Arcina died, aged 118 years ; at Yumuri, Don Miguel Gonzales, aged 115 ; at Alacranes, Don Pedro Orozco, aged 105 ^ at the same place, the Mexican Indian Juan Escalona, aged 124 ; and there lived at Sabanilla, in 1847, Don Jose Chinique, at the age of 106, _ Cardenas.— Boundaries.— On the north, the sea ; east, the jurisdic- tions of Sagua la Grande and Cienfuegos ; south, that of Cienfuegos ; and west, that of Matanzas. Capital.— Cardenas, a town with a municipal assembly, founded in 1828 on the bay and hacienda of that name, on level and marshy land. It is an authorized port since 1843, having increased greatly in importance since 1840, when the railroad was built, which was subsequently ex- tended to unite it with Havana. After the fire which occurred on the north side in January, 1853, some fine buildings have been erected, giving a fine appearance to the town as seen from the port. The area built upon and laid out contains 15 caballerias ; greatest length, 1,947 varus ; width, 1,300 varas. The streets are 12 varas w,ide, except that of Isabel Segunda, which is 20 varas, and a few others yet wider. It contains 858 houses and 6,173 inhabitants. The distance from Havana is 30 leagues by the common road, and 121 miles by the railroad.* Petty Districts.— Cantel, Ceja de Pablo, Cimarrones, Guamutas, Hanabana, Lagunillas, Macurijes, and Palmillas. The town of Carde- nas constitutes a commissariat (which, however, also comprises several rural quarters) of the district of Lagunillas. Communities.— Cantel, a hamlet on a mountain, with 11 houses and 68 inhabitants. Guasimas, a village, dependent of Cantel, with 14 houses and 47 inhabitants. Lagunillas, a village with 27 houses and 390 inhabitants. El Jucaro (in above district), a hamlet on the beach with 10 houses and 177 inhabitants, and terminus of the Jucaro railroad. Cimarrones, a curacy (church in process of building) and village of 43 houses and 269 inhabitants. Bemba (Cimarrones district), a village of 43 houses and 486 inhabitants, and station of the Cardenas railroad, where it connects with the Macagua branch. Guamutas, a curacy and * See map of this town published bj Sr. J. Lopez y Martinez. 9C Cuba: village of 23 hcaises and 269 inhabitants. Roque, a village of 36 houses and 276 inhabitants. Hato-Nuevo, a village of 16 houses and 211 inhab- itants. Vergara or Alava, a hamlet of 6 houses and 58 inhabitants, and containing large warehouses perfectly stocked. Pijuan, a hamlet of 11 houses and 194 inhabitants. (The last four places are in Guaniu- tas district.) Palmillas, a curacy and village of 39 houses and 218 inhabitants. Nueva Bermeja (Palmillas district), a village of 49 houses and 408 inhabitants. Sierra Morena (Ceja de Pablo district), a village of 15 houses and 96 inhabitants. Corralillo, or Felipe (above dis- trict), a village of 19 houses and 157 inhabitants. Macurijes, a curacy, without population. Isabel (Macurijes district), a hamlet of 5 houses and 24 inhabitants. Corral-Falso (above district), a town of 55 houses and 335 inhabitants,- surrounded by valuable plantations, and is a rail- road station. Navajas (above district), a hamlet of 9 houses and 34 inhabitants. Hanabana, a curacy and hamlet of 6 houses and 22 in- habitants. Caimito (Hanabana district), a village of 25 houses and 151 inhabitants. Jagiiey-Grande (Hanabana district), a hamlet of 9 houses and 69 inhabitants. Productions and Peculiarities. — The productions are sugar, coffee, cattle, coal, salt, and timber. The territory is level and exceed- ingly fertile, and filled with sugar and coffee plantations, and cattle estates ; it is the most traversed by railroads of any in the island, an effect of its flourishing agricultural condition The soil has produced sugar-canes of a truly astonishing length, thickness, and yield. In 1850 we saw cut down at Hanabana a mahogany tree of the first quality, that measured over one and one-fourth varas in diameter. The cabinet of the profound naturalist, Mr. Gumlach, is well worth visiting. Sagaa la Grande. — Boundaries. — North, the sea ; east, Villa Clara ; south, Villa Clara and Cienfuegos; and west, Cardenas. Capital,. — Sagua la Grande, a town with a municipal assembly, situ- ated on the left margin of the river of that name, on level and swampy land, and contains 400 houses and 2,200 inhabitants, an infantry bar- racks, and two schools. It is an inland and authorized port, seven leagues from the mouth of the river of the same name, half the distance being in the windings of the river, as in a straight line it is but three and one-half leagues. From Villa Clara, to which place a railroad is about being built, the distance is 12 leagues, and from Havana 76. The inhabitants are called Sagilenos. Petty Districts. — Ama.ro (the head of which is Cifuentes), Calaba- zar, Jumagua (formerly Egidos), Eancho-veloz, Santo Domingo (a colony), and Yabu. Communities. — Pueblo nuevo de San Juan (Jumagua district), Physical, Political, and Industrial. 91 a village of 26 houses and 30 inhabitants. Jumagua, a hamlet of 6 houses and 19 inhabitants. Guata de la Izquierda (Jumagua district), a hamlet of 6 houses and 23 inhabitants. Boca del Eio Sagua (Jumagua district), a hamlet of 7 houses and 32 inhabitants. San Francisco del Cala- bazar (Calabazar district), a village of 26 houses and 100 inhabitants. Viana (Calabazar district), a village of 22 houses and 160 inhabitants. San Narciso de Alvarez, a curacy and hamlet on the central highway, with 17 houses and 109 inhabitants. Jiquiabo (Alvarez district), a hamlet of 5 houses and 20 inhabitants. Cifuentes ( Amaro district) , a town with church, 50 houses, and 270 inhabitants. Quemado de Giiines, a curacy and village of 47 houses and 170 inhabitants. Carahate, or Carahatas (preceding district), an embarking-place and hamlet of 14 houses and 40 inhabitants. Colonia de Santo Domingo, a village of 40 houses and 181 inhabitants. Playa de Sierra Morena (Rancho-veloz district), a hamlet of 4 houses and 18 inhabitants. Sierra Morena (Rancho-veloz district), a hamlet of 5 houses and 17 inhabitants. Productions. — Sugar, cattle, timber, coal, and some wax. Clenfiiegos.— Boundaries.— North, Sagua la Grande, Giiines, Matan- zas, and Cardenas ; east, Villa Clara and Trinidad ; south and west, the sea. Capital.— Cienfuegos, a curacy and villa founded in 1819, the neat- est and most regular of any in the island, situated on the small peninsula of Majagua, in the port of Jagua, the cleanest, safest, and most mag- nificent port probably in the world. The built surface is six caballerias. The appearance of the town is very fine ; the streets are wide and straight, and contain 950 well-built houses and 4,708 inhabitants ; a theatre that can accommodate 1,000 persons ; a school, and a printing establishment which publishes an hoja economies (economical sheet). The climate is very salubrious. It has the disadvantage of lacking good drinking water, being only supplied by the surrounding rivers. It is an authorized port, within 90 leagues of Havana, 23 of Villa Clara, and 21 of Trinidad. The inhabitants are termed Cienfueguenos.* Petty Districts.— Camarones, Cumanayagua, Santa Isabel de las Lajas, Padre las Casas, and Yaguaramas. Communities.— Yaguaramas, a village and curacy of 30 houses and 190 inhabitants. In the district of that name are the hamlets Los Abreus, of 16 houses and 30 inhabitants ; Jibacoa, of 20 houses and 40 inhabitants ; and Bagasal, of 13 houses and 70 inhabitants. Camarones, a curacy and town of 80 houses and 400 inhabitants ; and in the same district, the villages Ciego-Alonso, of 14 houses and 150 inhabitants ; * See the different plans and maps of this town and jurisdiction by Sr. Lanier. 92 Cuba : and Ciego-Montero, of 42 houses and 290 inhabitants. Cumanayagvia. a curacy and hamlet of 7 houses and 40 inhabitants ; and, in the same district— Arimao, a village of 43 houses and 251 inhabitants ; San Anton, a hamlet of 4 houses and 30 inhabitants ; La .Mandinga, a hamlet of 7 houses and 40 inhabitants ; and La Sierra, a village of 18 houses and 110 inhabitants. Las Lajas (Santa Isabel de), a town of 86 houses and 600 inhabitants; and in the same district the villages — Cartagena, of 18 houses and 130 inhabitants ; Santiago, of 15 houses and 160 inhabitants ; Salto, of 22 houses and 80 inhabitants; and Congojas, of 13 houses and 60 inhabitants. Nueva Palmira (Padre las Casas district;, a village formerly called Ciego Abajo, with 40 houses and 210 inhabitants. Cao- nao (Padre las Casas district), a village of 28 houses and 150 inhabit- ants. El Salado, a hamlet of 7 houses and 20 inhabitants. Soledad, a village of 12 ho'uses and 100 inhabitants. Santa Rosa, a hamlet of 7 houses and 25 inhabitants. Mordazo, a hamlet of 8 houses and 30 in- habitants. Medidas, a hamlet of 7 houses and 18 inhabitants. Productions. — Sugar, wax, timber, cattle, grain, tobacco, and,, hides. Peculiarities.* — The remarkable mahogany tree, four varas in di- ameter, cut down in 1808, and other subsequent ones. The fresh- water springs that arise in the sea on the <*oast. Villa €!ara.— Boundaries— North, Sagua la Grande and the sea ; east, San Juan de los Remedios ; south-east, Trinidad ; and south-west, Cienfuegos. Capital. — Villa Clara (Santa Clara), a curacy and villa, founded in 1683, between two rivulets, on sandy and somewhat hilly land, 136 varas above sea-level, and on the central road. It is a pretty town, and contains 1,090 houses and 6,604 inhabitants, a poor theatre, and a printing establishment that publishes the Eco thrice a week. The cli- mate is of the most salubrious in the island, as is proved by the fact that in 1852 there were only 546 deaths against 1,077 births and 127 mar- riages. The Sagua la Grande and Cienfuegos railroads will soon con- nect at this point, and render it the centre of a great trade. The dis- tance from Havana is 78 leagues, from Trinidad 24, from Cienfuegos 23, from Sagua 11, and 12 from Remedios. It is the birth-place of the * In January, 1849. the author published in the Diario de la Ecibana some notes on the Ingenios Of Cardenas and Matanzas, indicating all their elements (even to the dimensions of the buildings), crops, soil, etc., those districts containing the largest iu the island at that time ; but at present there is one being established at Cienfuegos whose probable crop is estimated at 80,000 boxes of sugar ! In this district, and at Cardenas and Sagua la Grande, canes have been produced nine varas high and five inches thick, and some caballerias of land have yielded 120 to 150 hogsheads of mus- covado sugar, being an average of 4 : 500 arrobas. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 93 distinguished jurisconsult, Don Indalecio Santo-Suarez. The inhabit- ants are called Villa- Clareros or Poblanos. Petty Districts. — Anton-Diaz (formerly Egido), Baez, Esperanza, Manicaragua, Niguas (formerly San Diego), Pelo-Malo, San Lazaro del Granadillo, San Juan de los Lleras, or Yeras, and Selbabo. Communities. — Esperanza or Puerta de Golpe, a town and curacy of 180 houses and 1,580 inhabitants, situated on the central highway, and remarkable for the regularity of its buildings. El Salto (Lazaro district), a village of 15 houses and 220 inhabitants. Manicaragua, a town with church, 40 houses, 140 inhabitants, and 3 copper mines in the vicinity. San Fernando (above district), a hamlet of 9 houses and 30 inhabitants, near a copper-mine. San Diego (Niguas district), a hamlet of 15 houses and 70 inhabitants. San Juan de los Yeras, a village of 35 and 190 inhabitants. Yabu, a village of 13 houses and 27 inhabitants. Condado (Anton-Diaz district) , a town of 80 houses and 460 inhabitants. Productions. — Hogs, excellent draught horses, wax, cocoa, timber, copper, and some wheat and yerenes. Peculiarities. — Three copper mines, one of which was worked at the time of the Conquest, and silver and gold extracted from it. Trinidad. — Boundaries. — North, Reniedios; east, Santo Espiritu; south, the sea ; and west, Cienfuegos and Villa Clara. Capital. — Trinidad, a curacy and city since 1815, situated one league north of the port of Casilda, forming an amphitheatre with Mount Vijia. The climate is so healthy that the deaths in 1852 were only 354, against 834 births and 79 marriages. The area built upon is 11 cabal- lerias of land, nearly equal to that of Havana within the. walls. It contains 2,270 houses and 14,119 inhabitants, and a printing-office pub- lishing the Correo three times a week. The distance from Havana is 90 leagues. It is a " dry port," communicating with the coast by the port of Casilda, whither a railroad is to be built, and is the stopping-place of several steamers. It is the birth-place of Malibran, an unfortunate hero in the late civil struggle in Spain. The inhabitants are termed Trinitarios* Petty Districts. — Cabajan, Casilda, Guaniguical, Giiinia de Mi- randa, Palmarejo, Rio de Ay, San Juan, San Francisco, Sipiabo (form- erly Jumento), and Tayaba. < Communities. — Casilda, thechief port of Trinidad, and future ter- minus of a railroad, with 185 houses and 1,400 inhabitants. Giiinia de Miranda, a town of 60 houses and 300 inhabitants. Cayaguani (above district), a hamlet of 4 houses and 18 inhabitants. San Pedro de Pal- * See the map of this city by Don Eafael Rodriguez. 94 Cuba : marejo, a curacy and village of 20 houses and SO inhabitants. Caracusey (above district), a hamlet of 10 houses and 40 inhabitants. Rio de Ay, a curacy. Las Jiquimas, a hamlet of 6 houses and 30 inhabitants. Sipiabo, a hamlet of 5 houses and 15 inhabitants. Jumento, a hamlet of 8 houses and 20 inhabitants. . Productions.— Sugar, coffee, wax, mules, tobacco, marble, ox-horns, yarei palm leaf, and famous conserves and sweetmeats. On the coast are caught sea-cows, from the skin of which beautiful walking-canes and other articles are made. Peculiarities. — The magnificent valley of Los Ingenios ; the lofty mountain Pico del Potrerillo ; and the copper mines called Los Pobres, near Cabayan River, and one of amianthus. San Juan de los Remedies.— Boundaries.— North, the sea; east, Santo Espiritu and Trinidad ; and west, Villa Clara. Capital. — San Juan de los Remedios, a curacy and villa founded about 1545, and at present situated on level, low, and damp land, of reddish soil, rendering it unhealthy in the rainy season. Its appear- ance is fair ; and it contains a good church, 890 houses, 5,270 inhabit- ants, and a printing establishment publishing the Boletin twice a week. It is an authorized U dry port," whose shipping is done by the port of Caibarien, with which it communicates by a railroad of five miles. The distance from Havana is 86 leagues. Petty Districts.— Caibarien, Egidos, Guadalupe, Guaracabuya, Mayajigua, Santa Fe, San Felipe, Santa Rosa, Taguayabon, Vega-Alta, Vega-Redonda, Yaguajay. Communities. — Las Vueltas (San Antonio de), a village in Vega- Alta district, of 31 houses and 230 inhabitants. Guaracabuya, or San Anastasio de Cupey, a curacy and village of 24 houses and 170 inhabit- ants. Nazareno (above district), a hamlet of 9 houses and 32 inhabit- ants. Yaguajay, a village of 12 houses and 110 inhabitants. Mayaji- gual, a curacy and village of 42 houses and 260 inhabitants. Vives, or Caibarien, a port and town in the colony of that name, with 194 houses and 780 inhabitants ; it is a railroad terminus, and is having a church built. Productions. — Sugar, wheat, tobacco, cattle, cocoa, yerenes, and timber. Peculiarities.— ^The many and remarkable caves in the Sierras de Matacumbe. The cultivation of cocoa and wheat. Santo Espiritu.— Boundaries.— North, Remedios and the sea ; east, Puerto Principe; south, the sea; and west, Trinidad. Capital. — Santo Espiritu, a curacy and villa founded in 1514, by Velasquez, and situated a short distance from the river Yayabo, over Physical, Political, and Industrial. 95 "which is a fine bridge. It is regularly built, with 1,600 houses and 9,982 inhabitants, and contains a printing-office that publishes the Fenix twice a week. It is an authorized " dry port," shipping by the port of Sasa ; a railroad is about to be built to Trinidad and Casilda, and there are projects of one to the einbarking-place of Sasa, and another to San Juan de los Remedios. Distance 101 leagues from Havana, 18 from Trinidad, and 50 from Puerto Principe. The inhabitants are vulgarly called Guayaberos. -PtTTY Districts.— Algodonal, Alicante, Banao, Cayaguasi (formerly Egidos), Ciego de Avila, Chambas, Iguara, Jibaro, Jobosi, Minas, Neiba, Pueblo-Viejo, Rivera, Santa Lucia, and Yayabo. Communities. — Sasa (Algodonal district), a village of 13 houses and 60 inhabitants, and is the shipping-port of Santo Espiritu. Banao, a village of 25 houses and 110 inhabitants. Jicotea (district of Ciego de Avila), a village of 12 houses and 80 inhabitants. El Jibaro (San An- tonio Abad de), a cur°,cy and village of 28 houses and 450 inhabitants. Moron, a curacy and town of 222 houses and 1,200 inhabitants. Ciego de Avila, a village and curacy (known as San Eugenio de la Palma) with 40 houses and 800 inhabitants. Productions. — Cattle, tobacco, wax, sugar, cocoa, yorrei-palm, and famous lace. Peculiarities. — It coastj the sea both on the north and south, thus rendering the maritime and civil divisions nearly alike. Near' the capital town guava trees are very abundant Puerto Principe.- -Boundaries. — North, the sea and Nuevitas; east, Las Tunas and Bayamo; south, the sea; and west, Santo Espiritu. Capital. — Puerto Principe (Santa Maria de), a city situated on a low and sandy plain, vatered !_y the Tinima and Jatibonico streams. Its buildings, which afford nothing remarkable, occupy twelve and one- half caballerias of land, with winding streets, the most of Which are narrow, and numbering 3,576 houses and 26,648 inhabitants. It con- tains a fine theatre, and a printing establishment issuing the Fanal. The Intendancy and Court of Judicature that resided here (the latter being the first court established in Spanish America) have recently been suppressed. Here were born the botanist Don Tomas Pio Betencourt ; the orator Presbyter Fernandez (called Pico de Oro, or golden tongue) ; the priest Varona de la Vicenta (of historical and tragical memory) ; and the distinguished jurisconsult, Don Francisco de Armas. Distance fiom Havana 151 leagues, 12 from the port of La Guanaja, 22 from Santa Cruz, and 19 from Nuevitas, with which city it is connected by a railroad. Santa Cruz and La Guanaja, which belong to its 90 Cuba: jurisdiction, are authorized ports. The inhabitants are called Cama- giieyanos* P*ttv DxsTHiCTs.--Sah a na Grande, Guayabo, Zaragozano, Monte del Homo, Maraguan, Guananey, Jimaguaisi, Porcayo, Caonao, Caobabo, Cubita Yaguajay, Padre Valencia (Conception), Najasa, Gnaicanamar, San Pedro, Altannra, La Trinidad, San Geronimo, Magorabomba Jarann, La Guanaja, SibanicQ, Cascorro, Monte-oscuro, Guaimaro Guaimarillo Yaguimo, Santa Cruz, Bioya (formerly San Juan), Cura- jaya San Carlos, Vertientes, Mata-Recua, Corojo (formerly Cumanay- agua), Yayabaco, Judas Grande, and Guanamaro CoMMUNixiEs.-Banao, a village of 22 houses and 110 inhabitants Cercado, a hamlet of 9 houses and 21 inhabitants. Tuabaquey, a ham- let of d houses and 14 inhabitants. La Entrada, a hamlet of 8 houses and 27 inhabitants. Limones, a hamlet of 5 houses and 9 inhabitants. Corojo, a hamlet of 8 houses and 23 inhabitants. Hermita-Vieia a hamlet of 10 houses and 19 inhabitants. Cubita (to which district the preceding hamlets belong), a curacy and hamlet of 6 houses and 29 in- habitants. Zaragozano, a hamlet of 4 houses and 13 inhabitants San Geronimo, a curacy and hamlet of 5 houses and 34 inhabitants La Guanaja, a village of 35 houses and 138 inhabitants. Sibaniyu, a curacy and town of 73 houses and 527 inhabitants. Cascorro, a village of 32 houses and 196 inhabitants. Guaimaro, a curacy and town of 82 houses and 4o0 inhabitants. Guayabal, a village of 13 houses and 54 inhabit- ants. Santa Cruz, a curacy and town of 116 houses and 552 inhabit- ants; is an authorized port, 22 leagues south of Puerto Principe, and the stopping-place of steamers bound for Cuba. Vertientes (San Pedro de) a curacy (just transferred to Santa Cruz) and hamlet of 4 houses and 21 inhabitants. PnoDucTxo^s.-Sugar, cattle and horses, candles, soap, pottery, ex- cellent wax, horns, yarei-^lm leaf, tobacco, copper, mats, cheese, jerked beef, and fine conserves and sweetmeats. PECULiABm M .-The Sierra de Cubita, with its remarkable entrance diction ^ CaV6S " The iSland ° f Cay ° ROman0 bel ° ng3 10 this J uris " Nttevit a s.-Boi7 ND ARi Es .-North, the s^a; east, Las Tunas; south and west, Puerto Principe. CAPiTAi..-Nuevitas (San Fernando de) a curacy and city without a corporation, but having a municipal assembly, founded in 1819, on level I ?l, l T h ? the margln ° f the fine P° rt of that * am e, ^ a point called El Grmcho, where Columbus planted a cross, and Velasquez *• See the map of this city by Sr. Lavallee. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 101 of the Mayari River, with 650 houses and 998 inhabitants. The district produces good tobacco, excellent wax, sugar, and cattle. Distant 21 leagues from Sagua de Tanamo, 82 from Cuba, and 25 from Holguin. Contiguous to it lies the hamlet of Braguetudos, and near by those of La Herradura, Chavaleta, Arroyo Hondo, Guayabo, Cubonico, Caguasal, and Barajagua. Sagua de Tanamo, a town and curacy, distant 80 leagues from Baracoa and 34 from Cuba, situated on a peninsula at the extremity of the hacienda Demajagua, and contains a barracks, 91 houses, and 224 inhabitants. Its district contains at present 22 cattle estates, 3 ingenios, 1 potrero, and 337 tobacco vegas. The chief pro- duction is tobacco, of which in fruitful years the crop amounts 14,000 or 15,000 quintals. El Cobre (Minas Santiago Real del Prado de), a villa without corporation, but with a municipal assembly, a curacy with a church, and a sanctuary containing the reverenced virgin Del Cobre ; 460 houses and 2,069 inhabitants. Juan Diaz (S. de Tanamo district), hamlet of 9 houses and 15 inhabitants. Ti-Arriba (Concepcion de), a curacy and town of 74 houses and 126 inhabitants. Palma Soriano, a curacy and village of 45 houses and 185 inhabitants. Caney (San Luis del), a town with a sub- corporation and municipal assembly and curacy ; contains 151 houses and 622 inhabitants, and is noted for its fairs. So- capa, a small hamlet at the entrance of the port of Cuba, with 11 houses and 28 inhabitants. Productions. — Coffee, sugar, celebrated tobacco, pine-trees (at Ma- yari and Sagua), cotton, cocoa, hides, fustic, ginger, vanilla, and wax. Deer is so abundant that the markets are daily supplied with venison.* Peculiarities. — The coffee is as fine in quality as that of Santo Domingo or Porto Rico, for which reason it often commands double the price of that of Havana. The quality of the sugar, on the contrary, is not as good as that of the western department, probably because not well manufactured. This jurisdiction is the richest in copper oref and in timber and precious woods, such as mahogany (as good as the Haytian), fustic, Brazil-wood, dcana, etc. The oppressive heat of Cuba contrasts singularly with the constantly cool temperature of the Sierra Maestra, three and a half leagues distant, where many European fruits are culti- vated so successfully that artichokes, quinces, and strawberries are sold about the streets. Pinks grow wild in the cafetales of the Sierra Maestra. It is so cool on the heights around the city as to render extra bedclothes necessary at night, even in summer. There are a large nurn- * We have observed recently that venison is to be had in the markets of Havana. t The greatest depths of the principal mines which are being worked in this district are as follows— La Isabelita 30S Castilian varus, El Santuario and La Londena 2S3, Ban Jos6 264, San Andres 21S, etc. 102 Cuba: ber of camels in this district for labor in the mines. The Sierra Maestra contains haunts of runaway negroes. Gnantanamo. — Boundaries. — West and north, the jurisdiction of Cuba; east, that of Baracoa; and south, the sea. Capital,. — Santa Catalina de Guaso, a town situated on level land near the Sal to de Guaso, three leagues (by the highway) north of the harbor of Guantanamo, with barracks, 134 houses, and 863 inhabitants; distant 25 leagues from St. Jago de Cuba and 44 from Baracoa. Petty Districts. — Guaso, Guantanamo, Humboldt (formerly Ojo de Agua), Los Indios (formerly Santa P^osa), Monte Libano, Tiguabos, El Toro, Ulloa (formerly Filipina), and Yateras. Communities. — Tiguabos, a curacy and town of 51 houses and 155 inhabitants. Cerro Guayabo or Santa Bosa (Los Indios district), a ham let of 10 houses and 82 inhabitants, where there are still a few of the primitive race. Productions. — The lands of this district are the most fruitful in the island, but the greater part is uncultivated, although at present several large sugar and coffee estates are being established. The chief products are sugar, coffee, cotton, cattle, and timber and precious woods. Peculiarities. — The mountainous nature of the territory affords the finest prospects, caves, etc , and perhaps mineral substances. This is the district that contains the greatest number of French agriculturists and aboriginal Indians. Baracoa. — Boundaries. — North, east, and south, the sea ; and west, the jurisdictions of Cuba and Guantanamo. Capital. — Baracoa (La Asuncion de), the first settlement of the con- querors in the island, is a city situated at the bottom of a beautiful bay called Playa de Miel, at a height of five varus above the level of the sea, and seven leagues from Cabo Maisi. It was founded in 1512 with the title of villa, being one of the seven founded by Diego Velasquez. The streets are wide and level, and contain 34 tiled houses, 44 shingled, and 422 of yarei-palm, a primary school, and a permanent population of 2,400. The church contains the remarkable cruz de parra or vine cross. The climate is temperate even in summer, and would be the most salu- brious in the island but* for the lagoons that are formed in the rainy season. Water of excellent quality is supplied by the rivers Macagua- nigua and Miel. It is an authorized port and well defended. Distance 69 leagues from Cuba and 44 from Santa Catalina de Guaso. The in- habitants are called Baracoenses. Petty Districts. — Cabacu, Cupey, Cagiieijabe, Duaba (San Pedro de), Guinea, Imias, Jauco, Jaimayabon, Jojo, Mabujabo, Maisi, Mata, San Salvador, and Velasquez. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 103 Communities. — There are none besides the capital, for the colony of Moa or Vives contains hut two houses at present, the inhabitants hav- ing removed to Sagua cle Tanamo. Productions. — The land, though very hilly, is exceedingly fertile, producing all kinds of precious woods, timber, pine-trees, etc., also fruit, coffee, tobacco, cocoa, ginger, cattle, plantains, and abundance of cocoa- nuts of great size and fine flavor, most of the palms growing wild, and their oil constitutes one of the chief exports. Peculiarities. — The strange custom of riding on oxen. Mother-of- pearl shells in the mouth of the Miel River.* The Yunque, an isolated mountain of a conical figure, with a lake on the summit-, supposed to have been the crater of a volcano. On the hacienda Pueblo-Viejo, not far from Cabo Maisi, exists the foundation of a rectangular wall, 180 varas long and 85 wide, which is attributed to the primitive inhabitants, although what purpose it was built for is not known. There are many remarkable caves abounding in bones, benches, jars, etc., of the early race. On the hacienda Mariana is a palm-tree with 10 arms, and the air is so cold in winter that the river is covered with a slight crust of ice. There are yellow and even white parrots, walnut wood like that of Europe, and the jaragua tree. * The author is indebted to Don Manuel Borges for many specimens of minerals of this district, several pearls, and a splendid opal two centimetres long and one and a half wide. 104 Cuba: ANCIENT GKUQQJEIAPHY. Under this head are comprised the geographical notices that have been preserved both of the Indians, or primitive inhabitants, and of the first discoverers and conquerors of the island. The cattle-estates, ports, and especially the rivers and mountains, chiefly retain the Indian names, and, as they are numerous, we shall only notice such as are mentioned in the historical records and docu- ments of the-time-of the discovery and colonization in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. Cuba was the name of the island among the natives, although Colum- bus called it Juana on his first voyage in compliment to the Prince Don Juan, son of their Catholic majesties, and Alpha and Omega on his second voyage, and soon after it received the several names of Fernan- dina, Santiago, Ave Maria, and San Salvador, and was termed by mari- ners Lengua de Pajaro. Its original appellation has prevailed. Neighboring Land.— On the north Cautio (Florida), with the Cayos de Matacumbe (afterward de los Martires, and at present known as the Florida reefs) ; the Organos islands (Banco) de los Roques ; and the islands Yucayas or Lucayas, of which the most worthy of note are the Guanahani (now San Salvador or Gato— Cat Island), the first land dis- covered by Columbus in. America; the group of Bimini or Buyoca, and the islands of Arenas, which name was given by Columbus to the Mfica- ras shoal (which perhaps at thai; time protruded as islets or keys). On the east the island of Hayti, Quisqueya or Bohio, called Espanola by Columbus, and subsequently Isabela and St. Domingo, by which last it is best known.* On the south is the island of Jamaica, which Columbus called Santiago ; the Tortugas (at present Little Caimans), and Great Caiman. On the south-west the peninsula of Yucatan. Seas. — Columbus, on his first voyage, gave the name of Mar de Nuestra Senora to a tract of water which he traversed at the Jardines del Rey, and is supposed to lie on the north of the island of Cayo Romano. The bay of Cochinosf is also mentioned on the old charts. * This island has on the north the islet of Tortuga, a celebrated haunt of pirates until a late period. t Is it not likely that the name bestowed by the Spaniards on this bay was Conchil- los, instead of Oochinos ? The author infers it from the fact that Lope Conchillo was, at the time of the discovery and conquest, one of the most influential personages of the court, especially with regard to colonial affairs. (See the author's Memoria justified- tha del mapa antiguo.) Physical, Political, and Industrial. 97 founded the villa of Santa Maria del puerto del Principe. It contains 170 houses and 830 inhabitants, and is the terminus of the railroad to Puerto Principe. Petty Districts. — Mayanabo, Montalvan, Bayatabo, and Nuevas- Grandes. Communities. — Baga, a village of 28 houses and 128 inhabitants, and sea-port, at the bottom of the harbor of Nuevitas, and contains an auxili- ary church. San Miguel, a town of 56 houses and 291 inhabitants. Villa Nueva, a hamlet and railroad-depot, containing 4 houses and 22 inhabitants. Itabos y Yamagual, a hamlet in Bayatabo district. Productions, etc. — Tortoise-shell, sponges, cattle, timber, and woods (among which is the curbana, whose bark is an inferior cinnamon), copper, etc. There are large crocodiles in the Saramaguacan River, and the coast is infested by a plague of mosquitoes, jejenes, and other insects, almost intolerable in the rainy season. Tunas* — Boundaries. — North, the sea ; east, Holguin ; south, Ba- yamo ; and west, Puerto Principe and Nuevitas. Capital. — Tunas, a curacy and town, situated in the centre of the jurisdiction, with 289 houses and 2,004 inhabitants. Petty Districts. — Cabaniguan, Manati, Rompe, San Augustin, Unique, and Yarigua. Communities. — San Miguel de Manati, a hamlet of 12 houses and 72 inhabitants. Yarey, a village of 35 houses and 96 inhabitants. Embarcadero, a hamlet of 8 houses and 28 inhabitants. Paso de Cauto, a hamlet of 5 houses and 20 inhabitants. Arenas, a small hamlet in Unique district. PRODucTioNs.-^Qattle, yaref-leaf, wax, copper, and building timber. Peculiarities. — The district is famous for the wildness and fierce- ness of its bulls, and contains extensive savannas. Bayamo.* — Boundaries. — North, Tunas; east, Jiguani ; south, Cuba and Manzanillo ; west, the sea and Puerto Principe. Capital. — Bayamo (San Salvador de), a city founded, with the title of villa, in 1513, by Diego Velasquez, in a great plain, on the margin of the Bayamo River (an affluent of the Cauto). It occupies a space of four and one-half caballerias of land, and contains a theatre, college, four schools, a philharmonic society, 1,351 houses and 5,875 inhabitants. The climate is unwholesome from September to October, during which period intermittent fever prevails. It is the birth-place of Doctor Infante, and of the priest Montes de Oca. Distance from Havana 199 leagues, and 32 from Cuba Its shipping trade is done by Man- * See the map published by Don Eafael Eodriguez. 5 98 Cuba : zanillo and Cauto del Embarcadero. The inhabitants are called Bo,' yameses. Petty Districts. — Barrancas, Caureje, Casibacoa, Canto del Em- barcadero, Datil, Gnabaranao, Guajacabo, Guiza, Tamayo (formerly El Horno), and Valenzuela. Communities. — Gniza, a village (with title of villa and corporation till 1845) and curacy of 48 houses and 241 inhabitants. • Datil, a village one league south of Bayamo, containing a highly venerated sanctuary, 39 houses and 165 inhabitants, and is a pleasure resort of the Bayamese. Horno, San Pablo del (Tamayo district), a village of 16 houses and 91 inhabitants. Barrancas, a hamlet of 5 houses and 12 inhabitants. Cauto del Embarcadero, a town of 79 houses and 678 inhabitants. Productions. — Sugar, tobacco, arrow-root, cattle, yarei-le&f, vanil- la, casabe, woods (including fustic and pine wood), preserves, etc. Peculiarities. — In the southern part pine trees abound. Its chief wealth is in cattle. The famous Cauto Kiver traverses and disembogues in the jurisdiction. In the mountains is still to be found the indigenous animal called andards. Manzanillo. — Boundaries. — North-east, Bayamos; east, Cuba; and south and west, the sea. Capital. — Manzanillo, a villa and curacy, a mile from the mouth of the Yara Kiver. It is regularly built, with straight streets 14 or 15 varas wide, but not paved ; and contains 595 houses and 3,050 inhab- itants. The climate is rather unhealthy. It is an authorized port, and serves for the district of Bayamos, distant 14 leagues, whither a railroad is in project. Petty Districts. — Bicana, Guabeje (formerly Jibacoa), Portillo, Seiba, Yara, and Yaribacoa. Communities. — Yara-Abajo, a curacy and village with 40 houses and 377 inhabitants, and surrounded by vegas of excellent tobacco. Zarzal (Yara district), a village of 26 houses and .34 inhabitants. Bica- na, a curacy and village of 34 houses and 291 inhabitants. Productions. — Sugar, yard-palm, cattle, precious woods and timber, wax, rushes, cocoa-nuts, dressed hides, the well-known Yara tobacco, turtle, tortoise-shell, and mullet roes. Peculiarities. — There . is an abundance of yarei and cocoa-nut palms, pitch-pine trees, and Tabasco pepper ; also copper, gypsum, ochre, and loadstone. In this district is the loftiest mountain-peak in the island, the Turqumo, and also the Ojo de Toro, where there are lichena and pine forests, as well as on the Sierra Maestra, and the indigenous animal guabiniquimar, at present very rare in the island. Holguiu. — Boundaries. — North, the old Bahama channel; east, the Physical, Political, and Industrial. 99 .;ea and the jurisdiction of Cuba; south, also Cuba and Jiguani ; and west, Las Tunas. Capital. — Holguin (San Ysidoro), a vicarage and beautiful city, founded in 1751 in a fine and fertile plain between the Jigue and Mara- non rivulets. It covers seven and one-third caballerias of land, and is one of the most regularly built in the island, with right-lined streets, 693 houses, and 3.754 inhabitants. The climate is among the healthiest known. Distance 18 leagues from Tunas, and as much from Bayamo. The inhabitants are termed Holguineses. Petty; Districts. — Auras, Banes, Bariay, Cacocum, Dehesa, Fray Benito, Guirabo y Pedernales, Guabasiabo (formerly San Andres), Gua- irajal, Jibara, Majibacoa, Maniabon (formerly San Crist&bal), Santo Cristo, Sao-Arriba, Tocajo, Tacamara, Yayal, and Yareyal. Communities. — Punta de Yarey (Jibara district), a curacy and town on the western margin of the port of Jibara, seven leagues from Holguin, with a church, 257 houses, and 1.230 inhabitants. Auras, a hamlet of 18 houses (inhabitants not enumerated), and Velasco, a hamlet of 5 houses. Retrete, a curacy and hamlet of 4 houses and 11 inhabitants. Productions. — The excellent pasturage of this district causes cattle to be the chief production, but there is also abundance of fine woods of all kinds, including fustic and yarez-palm. There is also gold, copper, amianthus, loadstone, etc. Sugar, honey, wax, tobacco, casabe, copper, and timber are produced. Peculiarities. — This district contains the greatest number of fine ports. Cigar making is carried to great perfection, and the exportation is considerable. On the Banes estate are caves containing bones, instru- ments, utensils, etc., of the aboriginal inhabitants. Jignaiii. — Boundaries. — North, Holguin; east and south, Cuba; west, Bayamo. Capital,. — Jiguani (San Pablo de), a town with a sub-corporation, situated on the left margin of the River Jiguani, on somewhat hilly land, on the highway from Bayamo to Cuba, and contains 251 houses and 950 inhabitants, an infantry barracks, and a school. Like Cuba, it is subject to frequent earthquakes. Distance 7 leagues from Bayamo, 14 from Holguin, and 25 from Cuba. Petty Districts. — Baire, Concepcion, Ojo de Agua, Yarey. Communities. — Baire, a village of 59 houses and 351 inhabitants. Santa Rita, a village of 15 houses and 140 inhabitants. Productions. — Sugar, cattle, tobacco, vanilla, wax. Cuba. — Boundaries. — North, Bayamo. and Jiguani, Holguin, and the sea ; east, Baracoa and Guantanamo ; south, the sea ; west, Manzanillo. Capital. — Cuba (Santiago de) , a city, founded with the title of villa 100 Cuba: in 1514 by Diego Velasquez, on the eastern coast of the magnificent port of the same name, on clayey and hilly land, the highest part of which is 60 varas above the level of the sea. The streets are narrow and have a poor appearance, owing to the undulation of the land and the lowness of the houses, rendered necessary by the prevalence of earthquakes, and for the same reason they are built on piles. It contains 24,253 inhab- itants, a fine metropolitan cathedral,* a seminary-college, an economical society, four printing establishments (publishing two dailies, the Redac- tor and the Orden\), theatre, public walk, a fine square, a philharmonic society. Also a walk on the margin of the port, two very pretty squares adorned with trees, and a theatre (de la Reina), of good architecture. Water is provided of good quality by an aqueduct from the Paso de la Virjen. The climate is exceedingly warm during the day, in consequence of the city lying in a hollow, but cool at night, even in summer. Several lagoons in the vicinity seem to induce a propensity to tertian ague, and it is certain that the black vomit exercises greater power here than in any town in the island. The greatest degree of heat observed with a centigrade thermometer is 30° to 31°, yet the summer season appears to be more healthy than the winter. The two memorable earthquakes experienced by this city in 1853 will prove to be the cause of its great decline. Distance from Havana 236 leagues, 32 from Bayamo, 32 from Mayari, 25 from Santa Catalina, and 69 from Baracoa. Petty Districts. — Amistad, Andalusia, Armonia de Limones, Aser- radero, Barajagua, Bolanos, Brazo de Cauto, Caimanes, Caney, Cauto- Abajo, Dajao, Demajagua, Demajayabo, Dos Bocas, Enramada, Gu- anicG, Hongo-Losongo, Juan Angola, Jutinicu, Lagunas, Mamey, Ma- nantuaba, Maroto, Mayari-Abajo, Mayari -Arriba, Nimanima, Palma Soriano, Paz de los Naranjos, Pilon, Piloto- Arriba, Purial, Ramon, Rio- Frio, Rio Seco, Rojas, Sagua de Tanamo, San Andres, Sevilla, Ti- Arriba, Yaguas, and Zacatecas. Communities. — Moron, a curacy and hamlet (Jutinicfi district) of 4 houses and 25 inhabitants. Mayari-Abajo (San Gregorio de), a curacy, town, and inland port, three and a half leagues from the mouth * In 1816, in building the foundations of this church, the sepulchre of Don Diego Velasquez was discovered. The breaking of the slab caused uncertainty regarding the year of his decease, but the documents published by Sr. Pezuela prove that it oc- curred in 1524. t There is published besides a monthly periodical entitled Memorias de la Real Sociedad Economical that nobly rivals the weekly issued at Havana under the name of Anales y Memorias; both containing very important information for the merchant and the man of science, and indispensable for the planter and the Cuban historian. The first is edited by Don Juan B. Sagarra and the second by Col. Don Jacobo de la Pezuela, Physical, Political, and Industrial. 105 . Capes and Points. — Cabo Guaniguanico, re-named San Anton, and at present San Antonio, doubtless by the famous pilot Anton de Alaminos (discoverer of the new Bahama channel) , who doubled it several times, although the change of name should have been in honor of Sebastian de Ocampo, who first doubled it ; Cabo Hicacos, which name continues ; Punta Yucanaca, opposite the western point of Turiguano island ; Cabo Palmas, a name applied by Columbus to the most westerly discovered by him on his first voyage, and which is supposed to be the present Punta Yana ; Cabo Cubana, termed Campana by Columbus, and at present Lucrecia ; Cabo Maisi, the eastern extremity of the island ; Cabo Cruz, name bestowed by Columbus, and retained. Punta Don Cristobal, mentioned in the oldest maps, and being better known than other more prominent ones, it was chosen as a boundary in the maritime division. Punta Serafin was the name given by Columbus to the present Punta-Gorda ; and, lastly, Cabo Corrientes, mentioned in several old charts. Islands, Keys, and Shoals. — Evangelista, name bestowed by Colum- bus on Pinos island, discovered on his second voyage, and whose Indian name is supposed to have been Siguanea ; Guajaba island, still so called ; Jardines del Rey, name bestowed by Columbus on a group of islands discovered on his first voyage, and which are supposed to be Cayo Ro- mano and its acljacents ;. Jardines de la R,eina, applied by Columbus on his second voyage to the Cayos de las Doce Leguas, of which he called Santa Marta, the one now known as Cayo Piedra, where he stopped ; Camarreos or Canarreos, a name given by the natives to the Banco de los Jardines and Jardinillos, and even part of the keys north of Pinos island. Ports. — Bahia-Honda* and Cabanas, are mentioned in the oldest maps ; Marien, changed to Mariel, where the commissioners sent by Cortes from Mexico to Spain put in ; Carenas, a name given the port of Ha- vana because Sebastian de Ocampo there careened his ships with asphal- tum, of which he found abundance. The present name of Habana is due to its being situated in the Indian province so called. Ports of Jaruco and Chipiona are mentioned in the old maps ; Yucayo, changed to Ma- tanzas by the conquerors on account of the slaughter (matanza) made by certain Indians of some Spaniards that had come from Uruba ; Saba- na is the name on the old maps for San Juan de los Remedios ; Mares is the name given by Columbus to a port and river visited by him on his first voyage, and supposed to be Caonao- Grande ; San Salvador, the name * Probably Bayamon, from an abundance of the native tree of that name, since said inlet of the sea does not correspond to the appellation of Bahia-Honda, being neither a harbor nor deep to a sufficient degree to thus distinguish it. In Santo Domingo there is a port named Bayamon. 5* 106 /CBA : given by the religious Columbus to the first port and river visited by him in the island the 28th of October, 1492, supposed to be the river Maxi- mo.* Port of Santa Catalina, name given by Columbus to one visited by him on his. first voyage, supposed to be the bay of Sabinal ; Puerto Principe, the name bestowed by Columbus on the present port of Nuevi- tas; Ports Manati, Padre, and Nipe, cited in old maps ; Puerto Santo, name given by Columbus to the port of Baracoa, which he visited the 27th of November, 1492 ; Puerto-Escondido, mentioned in old maps ; Puerto de Palmas, where Velasquez landed on coming to conquer the island, and which is the present bay of Palmas, between Guantanamo and Puerto-Escondido ; Guantanamo, a great bay called Puerto-Grande by Columbus, when he visited it on his second voyage ; Macaca, stop- ping-port of all the chief navigators of the south of the island ; Guaca- nayabo, at present bay of Manzanillo ; Vasco Porcayo de Figueroa, at present port of Santa Cruz ; Jagua, port visited by Sebastian de Ocam- po on his voyage round the island ; Matamano, bay entered by Colum- bus on his second voyage, and now called Batabano ; Guanima, a bay cited in some old maps, at present called Guanimar. Rivers. — Nearly all retain their aboriginal names. Those mentioned by history in the 16th century are as follows : Manimani, now Maniman ; Marien, now Mariel ; Bani, now Banes ; Casiguaguas, now Chorrera or Almendares ; Yumuri, that disembogues in the port of Yucayo (Matan- zas) ; Mares, name given by Columbus to the Caonao-Grande ; Luna, name given by Columbus, it is supposed, to the Jigiiey ; San Salvador, name given by Columbus to the river at whose mouth he first landed in the island, supposed to be the Maximo ; Toa, at present written Toar by some, disemboguing north-west of Baracoa ; Macaguanigua, name re- tained by one of the. rivers that empty into Baracoa; Yumuri, that disembogues near Cape Maisi ; Yara, which retains its name ; Jobabo, * Don Jose G. de Arboleya, in his Manual de la Isla de Cuba, offers a disserta- tion on the courses that the distinguished writer, Washington Irving, aided by an able and practical navigator, supposes Columbus followed along the coasts of Cuba on his first voyage. "We regret that the reasons opposed by him to the opinion of Irving (and others adopting it, like Humboldt, Sagra, and Navarrete) do not convince us, and that we have no time, to refute at length Senor Arboleya's opinion. We shall merely al- lude to his statement that we have adopted, without discussion or examination, Mr. Irving's judgment in the ancient chart published by us. We could not only prove our careful examination of Irving's opinion by what we wrote in 1836, but also that, not satisfied with the statements of books and maps, we undertook a voyage solely with the object of confirming the course steered by Columbus on his first voyage, embark- ing for the purpose in a government schooner, commanded by the lieutenant-colonel of the navy, Don Antonio Montojo (now harbor-master of Trinidad), and the results of which, together with views^ topographical descriptions, etc., we intend to publiah. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 107 on whose banks gold used to be gathered : and in its vicinity is a rich copper mine worked by the conquerors ; Rio de la Misa, name given by Columbus to the river at whose mouth he caused to be said the first mass in the island the 6th of July, 1494, supposed to be the Jatibonico del Sur; Tayabo or Guaurabo, near Trinidad; Arimao, on whose banks gold was found, and at its origin was a rich mine of gold and silver (the San Fernando mine, which in modern times has only produced good cop- per) ; Onicajinal, the name which, according to Gomara, was that of the river on whose banks the villa of San Cristobal (now Havana) was orig- inally founded, and supposed to be the Mayabeque or Guines ; Caigua- nabo, now San Diego, and Cuyaguateje, which retains its name. Provinces.* — The provinces of the aborigines, hitherto proved, and which are mentioned by the old historians, are as follows, commencing on the west of the island : Guanahacabibes, on the peninsula formed by Cape San Antonio, and whose inhabitants were the most rustic, accord- ing to Diego Velasquez and the historian B. Diaz, which is strange, as they were the nearest to the civilized Mexican empire;! Guaniguanico, where the hacienda of that name is situated, near the Guadiana inlet ; Marien, now Mariel, where the hacienda of that name was situated ; Habana, which, doubtless, comprised the harbor of Matanzas ; Hana- mana, where is at present the hato called Hanabana ; Macoriges, where the hacienda Macurijes is situated ; Cubanaean (which signifies centre of Cuba), where there were gold-mines ; Sabana or Sabaneque, where at present are Carahatas and San Juan de los Remedios, which used to be called Sabana ; Jagua, around the port of that name, where gold was gathered ; Guamuhaya, about where Trinidad is situated ; Magon, on the south coast, near the mouth of Sasa river ; Ornofai, near the mouth * Until the publication of the author's ancient map and Memoria. justificativa, modern historians (even Herrera, Casas, and others) only mentioned nine provinces, and some of those erroneously named. In his said works the existence of thirty prov- inces is established — a number which, by a strange coincidence, corresponds to the jurisdictions into which the island is at present divided. " It is surely an error," sa} T s Senor Poey, " to believe that the Indians occupied only the provinces of which we have notice; especially if by province we understand a district governed by a cacique. We modern investigators are limited to the provinces mentioned in the primitive histories, remaining ignorant in regard to the rest, doubtless as numerous in the cen- tral and western parts of the island as in the eastern, which was the most known at the beginning of the 16th century." t This* circumstance, the paucity of reptiles in Yucatan of the same species as those of the island, and especially the great dissimilarity between the Maya language used on said peninsula, and the Siboney or Lucay spoken by the islanders (of the first of which the author has consulted grammars and dictionaries), should be borne in mind by any one attempting to determine the epoch at which Cuba was separated from the American continent. 108 Cuba : of the river Jatibonico del Sur ; Camagiiey, about where Puerto Prin- cipe is situated ; Guaimaro, toward the present hacienda and communi- ty of that name ; Cayaguayo, supposed to have lain between the prov- inces of Camagiiey, Cueiba, and Maniabon ; Cueiba, about the present hacienda Cueiba ; Guacanayabo, where at present is situated the villa of Manzanillo ; Macaca, where is now the hacienda of that name ; Mania- bon, near the hacienda of that name : Maguanos, near the place of the present hacienda Maguanos- Viejos ; Bayamo, the site of the city of that name ; Maiye (Maibio ?) and Guaimaya, supposed to have been between those of Bayamo, Boyuca, Barajagua, and Maniabon; Bani, near the present hacienda and port of Banes (east) ; Barajagua, site of the haci- enda of that name ; Boyuca, toward the west of the port of Cuba ; Sa- gua, site of Sagua de Tanamo ; Bayaquitiri, where at present are the haciendas Baiqueri, Baiquiri, and the port of Bairiqueri ; Baracoa, site of the city of that name ; Maisi, about the cape so called. Communities — Guaniguanico, a town near the hacienda of that name ; Mayanabo, now Marianao ; Matamano, now Batabano ; Guanabacoa, at present a villa, then an Indian town, where in 1554 it was ordered that the natives who were roving about the neighborhood should be gath- ered; Tarraco, an Indian town near Guanabacoa. San Cristobal, the seventh villa founded by Diego Velasquez, the 25th of July, 1515 ; it was situated at the mouth of the Onicaginal Biver (Mayabeque, five leagues from Giiines), soon after transferred to the mouth of the Casi- guagaus (Chorrera), the site being known some time subsequently as Pueblo- Viejo), and about 1519 it was removed to the port called Carenas by Sebastian de Ocampo ; the name of Habana, added to that of said villa, arose from its being situated in the Indian province of Habana. Yucayo, an Indian town, where it is supposed that the city of Matanzas was founded ; Hanamana, now Hanabana ; Carahatas (written Cara- hate by Las Casas), an Indian town near the present hacienda and port of that name ; Caonao, a town near the port of Jagua, retaining the name. Camarreo or Canarreo, a town where Father Las Casas and his friend Pedro de la Renteria settled when Diego Velasquez had desig- nated the sites of the villas he intended to found ; according to tradi- tion, it was situated where at present is the hacienda Las Auras, where SeHor Lanier has found ancient earthenware and other articles that seem to confirm it. Trinidad, the third of the villas founded by Velas- quez, established in 1514, where now is Casilda, and soon after removed to its present site. Sabana, an Indian town, where in 1545 was founded the villa of San Juan de los Remedios, also called El Cayo, from having bsen situated on a key previous to its removal to the present site. Santo Espiritu, fourth of the seveu villas founded by Velasquez, established iq Physical, Political, and Industrial. 109 1514 on the extremity of the hacienda Minas, at the place called Pueblo- Viejo, where is a spot named Cayo de la Iglesia, because it was the site of the church then existing. According to tradition, the removal to the present locality of Santo Espiritu took place in 1522. Santa Maria, the fifth of Velasquez's seven villas, was founded in 1514 in the port named Del Principe by Columbus (now Nuevitas), near the place now known as Pueblo-Viejo, or Chorro de Lazaro Pinto ; it was afterward trans- lated to an Indian town called Caonao, and soon again to another populous one, called Camagiiey ; for which reasons this city, the most distant from the coast of any in the island, is termed a port, and hence, also, are the inhabitants called Camagiieyunos. Guaimaro, a a town which retains the name and position; Cueiba, a town on the ha- cienda now called Cueiba ; Maniabon, Bani, and Barajagua, towns near the haciendas so called ; Guacanayabo, a town and port corresponding to the situation of Manzanillo ; Bayamo, a town where Velasquez founded the second villa, which he. named San Salvador, because he was there delivered from the cacique Hatuey, and hence the present city is called San Salvador de Bayamo ; Macaca, a town and port near the site of the present hacienda of that name, and was a place of considerable trade in the early times of the Conquest ; Manicanao, a town where the famous Hernan Cortes was encomendero. Santiago, the sixth villa, was found- ed by Velasquez in June, 1515, in the western part of the port now known as Cuba, at the mouth of the river Paradas, so as to be near the del Cobre 'mines (for it was founded with the object of establishing a foundry) ; afterward, in consequence of the plague of ants and other in- sects, it was found necessary (as in the case of nearly all the other villas) to remove it to its present site ; in 1522 it received the title of city, and was known as Santiago de Cuba, the addition being doubtless to distinguish it in those times from Jamaica, which was also called Santiago. Caney, a town where still exist some of the aborigines, though not of as pure race as at Santa Rosa and Tiguabos ; Tiguabos, a town yet containing some of the indigenous race ; Bayatiqueri, an In- dian town. Baracoa, a town where in 1512 Diego Velasquez founded the first of the seven villas established by him in the island, calling it La Asuncion. In 1518 it became a city and bishopric, and was consid- ered as the capital of the island until 1522, when the distinction and the bishopric passed to Santiago de Cuba. Maisi, a town on the site of the present hacienda of that name, in whose vicinity are vestiges of great monuments, skeletons, utensils, etc., of the aborigines. 1 10 Cuba : HISTORY OF THE ISLAND.* The history of Cuba is divided into five epochs : the first $ entitled Discovery, which comprehends the period from the landing of Chris- topher Columbus to the beginning of the Conquest, or from 1492 to 1511 ; the second, entitled Colonization, which comprehends the period from the beginning of the Conquest to the division of the island into two governments, or from 1511 to 1607 ; the third, entitled Organization, which comprehends the period from the division into two governments to the siege and capture of Havana by the English, or from 1607 to 1762; the fourth, entitled Civilization, which comprehends the pe- riod from the siege and capture of Havana to the declaration of free commerce, or from 1762 to 1801 ; and the fifth, entitled Prosperity, which comprehends the period from 1801, continued to the present time. First Epoclit— Discovery : 1492-1511. The island was discovered previously to Hayti or St. Domingo, by Christopher Columbus, in the evening of the 27th of October, 1492. He landed on the following day at the mouth of the River Maximo, which he named Port San Salvador, entering through the strait which no doubt is therefore called Boca de las Carabelas, north of the harbor of Sabinal. He afterward surveyed the coast westward as far as Punta Yana, which he named Cabo Pal- mas-, and, returning to the mouth of the River Caonao-Grande, which he named Rio de Mares, sent an embassy to the cacique of Camaguey (Puerto Principe), supposing him to be the Grand Khan of Tartary. After passing along the keys which he named Jardines del Rey, on the north coast, he steered toward Cabo Maisi, visiting the port of Nuevitas (which he named Puerto del Principe), and that of Baracoa, which he named Puerto Santo, following on to the island of Hayti or St. Domingo, which he discovered the 5th of December following, and named Espa- nola. Columbus revisited the island on his second and fourth voyages, but not on the third. On his second voyage, coming from San Nicolas (in St. Domingo), he reconnoitred Cabo Maisi ; then visited Guantanamo (which he named Puerto-Grande), and Cuba; and, steering south, dis- covered Jamaica, then returning to this island, and landing in the port of Macaca, whence he determined to reconnoitre the island on the south. * This division of the present volume is a translation from De la Torre's Elem.. de Qeog. e Hist, de la Ida de Giiba. Havana, 1S55. Peysical, Political, and Industrial. Ill His object being to determine whether it was an island or not, when he had arrived at the bay of Cortes, where the land curves southward, he became persuaded that it was a continent, and caused a certificate to be made to that effect by the notary he had on board. On his fourth voy- age he touched at Cayo Piedras, in the Laberinto de las doce Leguas, which he had already visited on his second voyage ; and subsequently at Trinidad and Macaca. Columbus died at Valladolid, in Spain, the 20th of May, 1506, aged about 70, and his remains were deposited in the Carthusian monastery of Seville, whence they were conveyed to the island of St. Domingo, and, in consequence of the revolution in that island, finally brought to this island in 1796, and deposited in the cathedral. It is at present intended to erect a suitable monument to his memory. Columbus died in the belief that the island was the eastern extremity of Asia, and it was not known to be an island until 1508, when Sebastian de Ocampo sailed round it by order of Nicolas de Ovan- do, governor of St. Domingo. The origin of the Indians of Cuba is doubtful, but it is generally be- lieved that they came over from Florida and the Yucayas,* and very few from Yucatan. According to some writers they numbered 200,000f at the time of the discovery, but others suppose much less, as it is known that in 1532 there were only 4 or 5,000. N The inhabitants of the centre especially were peaceful, and even timid ; those of the province of Guanahacabibes coarse and rude ; and those of the eastern part of the island were warlike, owing probably to the neces- sity of defending themselves from the frequent attacks of the cannibal Caribs. Their religion is described as a superstitious idolatry. Their divin- ities were called Semi or Vaganiona ; the devil, Mabuya ; and their priests or soothsayers, Behiques. However, to the great astonishment of Columbus and his companions, the cacique of Ornofay, after the first service of mass performed in the island, manifested a belief in a Supreme Creator, in the immortality of the soul, and rewards and punishments in a future life. .Their amusements were the areitos, or dancing and sing- ing parties, and the game of batos, or bat and ball, for which there was one or more squares in every town. They employed themselves chiefly in fishing, hunting, and agriculture. In their conucos or gardens they raised cotton, sweet potatoes, yuca (which "they called a/e), plantains, maize, pulse, sweet potatoes, etc. * Bahama Islands. t The aboriginal population of Porto Kico (one ninth the area of Cuba) was esti- mated at 600,000 ! !— {Translator.) 112 Cuba: The Indians were called Siboneyes, and each province was governed by a cacique whose government was patriarchal. The nobles were termed naitanos, and the lower orders naborias. The caciques had the title of matuseri or highness ; the nobles, that of bahari or lordship ; and the plebeians were addressed as guaxoti, or you or thou. Their houses were built of the palm-tree, suited to withstand the hurricanes, and similar to those now called bohios. Some were of an oval form like those at pres- ent in Cubitas ; others coniform, and termed caneyes ; while those in- habited by the caciques were called cancies. The roofs were adorned with flowers, cobos, and sibas, or stones. No house was without a hamaca or bed, and some were furnished with seats called dujos or duchos, made of a block of wood shaped like an animal with eyes and ears of gold;* but the most general custom of the aborigines was to squat on their hams. Their shipping was limited to canoas or cayucos by which they communicated with the neighboring land. Second Epocli.— Conquest and Colonization : 1511-1607 The island was conquered by Diego Velasquez, native of Cuellar (Segovia) who was sent by Don Diego Colon, son of the Admiral Columbus and Governor of St. Domingo. He sailed from Salvatierra de la Saban'a in St. Domingo, at the end of November, 1511, with four ships and 300 men, and landed in the port of Palmas, between Guantanamo and Puerto-Escondido. He was opposed by the valiant Hatuey, the cacique of Guajaba in Hayti, who with some of his vassals had taken refuge in the island on the occupation of Hayti by the Spaniards, but soon defeat ed him and condemned him to death at Bayamo. Velasquez then pro ceeded to distribute the territory in encomiendas (commanderies) in aid of which measure he founded the villa of Asuncion on the site called Baracoa by the Indians. He afterward founded Bayamo, and in 1514 Trinidad, Santo Espiritu, Santa Maria at the port named del Prineine by Columbus; in 1515 Santiago de Cuba, and the 25th of July same year, the Havana, at the mouth of the Mayabeque River. Havana was afterward transferred to the mouth of the Elver Chorrera, and subse quently to its present site, where, in 1519, the first mass was cele- brated under a seiba tree, where at present is the monument of the Templete, erected to commemorate that ceremony. The villa or town of Santa Maria was founded at the port called del Principe by Colum bas (now Nuevitas), near the bay of Guincho, but in consequence of the abundance of insects, and piratical invasions, it was transferred to the Indian town of Caonao, and finally to that of Camaguey-for which * In 1775 one of these seats was in the possession of Dona Conception Guerra in Bayamo, having belonged to the cacique of that province. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 117 The following sovereigns have reigned in Spain since the discovery of Cuba : Ferdinand of Aragon and Isabel of Castile, styled the Catholic sovereigns, the discovery having been made under the auspices t>f the latter in 1492; Philip I. and Jane, who ascended the throne in 1506 Charles I. of Spain and V. of Germany, in 1516 ; Philip IT., in 1556 Philip in., in 1598 ; Philip IT., in 1621 ; Charles II., in 1659; Philip V (first time), in 1700 : Louis I., in 1724 ; Philip V. (second time), in 1725 Ferdinand VI, in 1746; Charles III., in 1759; Charles IV., in 1788 Ferdinand VLL, in 1808 ; and Isabel II., in 1833. The governors of the island who have distinguished themselves, pre- vious to Tacon, whose successors are yet living, are the following : the Marquis de la Torre, who instituted the police, and many material and ornamental improvements. The memorable Don Luis de las Casas, to whom beneficence and literature owe so much. Sr. Someruelos, who sus- tained the island in the midst of the stormy events of the Peninsula in the years '8 to '12 ; and Sr. Vives, who, with prudent and wise policy, protecting the natives, saved the island from following in the footsteps of the other Spanish- American possessions. Among other public functionaries, the following have distinguished themselves : Bishop Compostela, who established various country cura- cies and charitable institutions. The memorable Espada y Landa, dis- tinguished as the Mecsenas and the friend of humanity in Cuba. The superintendents Don Alexandro Eamirez, ever to be remembered for the immense benefits due him by the island, the confirmation of property in the lands granted as mercedes, freedom of forests, abolition of the to- bacco monopoly, etc. ; and Don Francisco Arango, who merited a statue for having promoted free trade and the freedom of tobacco, which he constantly strove for until he obtained them ; and Count Villanueva, whose enlightened financial administration has contributed to the aggran- dizement of the island. The following individuals also deserve honor- able mention : Don-Martin Calvo de Arrieta, who established a fund to provide portions for young women. Don Francisco Carballo, who found- ed the celebrated school of Belen (almost the only educational institu- tion in Havana until the end of last century) ; and Father Espit (known as Padre Valencia), missionary of Puerto Principe. STATISTICS OF CUBA, 1853, POPULATION OF THE ISLAND. JURISDICTIONS. Areasq.m. Western Department. Piiiar del Bio.. 3,713 San Crist6bal ... 905 Bahia-Honda .. 762 Mariel 572 San Antonio . . . 154 Habana 893 Santiago 214 Bejucal 191 Guanabacoa . . . 166 Eosario.. 309 Guinea .' 1,181 Jaruco 512 21,843 3,824 11,578 1,923 4,124 621 15,921 2,849 12,284 1,721 87,916 32.594 7,194 1.597 10,817 ' 1,746 10.721 3,273 11,764 2,841 18,214 2,442 10,218 1,875 34.721 5,948 27.521 3.824 14,534 1,173 17,811 4,124 25,592 8,528 15,208 7,324 15,149 3,821 24,321 6,394 Cardenas 1,262 Sagua 1,464 Oienfuegos 2,558 Santa Clara .... 1,345 Trinidad 868 Eemedios 2,439 Santo Espiritu.. 3,819 Total 24,133 397,451 Eastern Department. Puerto Piincipe 6,009 26,893 Nuevitas 2,261 2,721 Tunas 2,725 3,818 Manzanillo .... 1.380 7,321 Holguin 2,523 19,427 Bayamo 4,309 10,721 Jiguanl 702 6,721 Cuba 3,177 21,524 Guantanamo ... 1.595 1,574 Baracoa 1,464 3,817 Col. Slaves. Total Pop. Chief Towns. 6,548 5,494 19,422 10,188 26,850 4,964 7,938 4,322 5,428 16,918 8,186 40,728 55,016 10,001 11,318 5,301 9,318 4,012 6,816 Popula. ,442 268,717 10,318 397 1,821 11,143 3,271 11,217 4.818 29,718 2,281 3,721 9,321 1,742 722 917 3,827 2,724 684 34,000 5.92S 1,842 35,665 Pinar del Eio . . . 1.500 20,049 San Cristobal.. . 270 10,239 Bahia-Honda... 570 38,192 Guanajay ...... 3,000 24,193 S. Antonio Abad 2.890 147,360 Habana 125.905 13,755 Santiago 2,274 20,501 Bejucal 2,264 18,816 Guanabacoa 8,100 20,033 Eosario 450 37,574 Giiines 3.542 20,229 Jaruco 611 81,397 Matanzas 26,000 86,361 Cardenas 6,173 25,708 Sagua la Grande 2.510 33.253 Cienfuegos 4,708 39,421 Villa Clara 6,604 31,850 Trinidad 14,119 22,982 Eemedios 5,270 37,532 Santo Espiritu . . 9,982 764,610 46.532 Puerto Principe. 26,648 4,860 Nuevitas 820 6.361 Tunas 2,004 19.381 Manzanillo 3,050 26,525 Holguin 3,754 24,662 Bayamo 5,875 11,723 Jiguani 950 85,242 Cuba 24,253 9,783 Guaso 863 9,381 Baracoa 2,400 Total 23,145 104,537 78,205 61,708 244,450 Western Depart. 24,133 397,451 9S,442 268,717 764,610 Habana. Eastern Depart. 23,145 104,537 78.205 61.708 244 450 Cuba. Grand Total . 47.27S 501.9S8 176,647 330.425 1,009.060 Statistics of Cuba. 119 POPULATION— 1775-1851. rpnmia White Persona. Free Col. and Black. JET 96,440 30,847 44,333 171,629 ; 79 1 . _ - - 272,140 ISll^Umat'e)'.:.:... 274,000 140,000 212,000 626 000 1817 ..290,021 115,691 225,26S 630,980 1825 (estimate) 325,000 130,000 260,000 715,000 182 7 311,051 106,484 286,942 704,487 1841 ... 418,291......... 152,838 436,495 .1,007,624 1S46 1". .. 425,767 149,226 323,759 898,752 1S49 457,133 164,410 323,897 945,440 1S5 3 ".'.'.'.' 501,988 136,647... 330,425 1,009,060 Absolute and Relative Movement. Tears. 1775-1791.. . Absolute incr. 100,520.. Incr. per cent . 58.5.. Annual incr. per cent. 3.7 1791-1811.. « « 353,860.. " " 130.0.. M " 6.5 1811-1817.. " " 4,980.. " " 0.8.. " " 0.1 1817-1825.. " " 84,020.. " it 13.3.. " " 1.7 1825-1 827.. « deer. 10,513., . Deer. " 1.5. deer. " 0.7 1827-1841.. « incr. 303,137. , Incr. " 43.1. mcr. " 3.1 1841-1846.. " deer. 108,S72. . Deer. l( 10.2. « deer. " 2.0 1846-1849.. a incr. 46,688. . Incr. " 5.2. " mcr. " 1.7 1849-1853.. " " 63,620. . " " 6.7. . " 1.7 TOWNS OF 1,500 INHABITANTS AND UPWARD. Cities, etc. Pop. 1841. Fop. 1846. T °, V ' l T"- Habana 137,49S 106,96S 125,90o Puerto Principe 24.034 19,168 26,648 Matanzas 18,991 16,936 26.000 Cuba 24,753 26J3S 24,253 Trinidad 12,718 13,222 14,119 Santo Espiritu 9,484 7,424 Guanabacoa — 6 ' 519 VillaClara 6,132 5,837 6,604 Cardenas 1,828 3,103 6,173 Bayamo 7,480 4,778 5,873 Eemedios 4,313 4,106 5,270 Cienfuegos 2,437 4,324 4,708 9,9S2 6,519. .* 3.100 Holguin , ;,065 3,754 GuinesV. 2,515.'. 2,612 3,542 Manzanillo 3,299 8,780... Guanaj ay . . . San Antonio Sagua Baracoa 2,605 1,853 2,400 3,000 2890 2.510 Santiago Bejucal Tunas Pinar del Bio. 2,274 2,264 2.004 1,500 120 Statistics of Cuba. RURAL ESTABLISHMENTS/ Haci- Inge- Cafe- JURISDICTIONS. endas. nios. tales Western Department. Pinar del Eio 92 SanCrist6bal 29 Bahia-Honda 20 Mariel — San Antonio 2 Habana 44 Santiago Bejucal 2 Guanabacoa — Eosario — Giiines 5 Jaruco — Matanzas 3 Cardenas 15 Sagua 9 Cienfuegos 42 Santa Clara 12 Trinidad '33 Eemedios 150 Santo Espiritu 597 47 229 79 97 79 40 44 41 19 . 7 87 139 28 88 21 49 27 67 38 1 24 Potre- Caca- Algodo- Sitios de : Estan- Ve- Oolme- ros. guales. nales. Labor. cias. gas. nares. 180 — — 4 2,096 85 177 — — 502 _ 879 17 87 — — 130 19 . 89 64 1 84 — — 1,302 9 _ 22 107 — — 1,050 — 14 140 23 — — 59 501 _ 12 111 — — 402 79 — 10 68 — — •200 721 _ 33 29 — — 402 _ 4 96 — — 1,365 196 21 16 247 — ' — 1,901 79 — 31 260 — — 930 1 — 60 271 — — 1,785 10 5 37 190 — — 1,758 5 _ 7 375 — — 1,277 — — 121 702 — — 1,126 2 93 127 203 — — 1,524 300 65 132 338 — — ' 460 164 193 42 6S4 2 — 682 279 83 272 — — — 310 379 172 • 170 Total 1,055 1.067 620 4,433 2 Eastern Department. Puerto Principe ... 1,124 Nuevitas 97 Tunas 8 Manzanillo 307 Holguin ?T 487 Bayamo Jiguani Cuba Guantanamo Baracoa 252 110 133 91 16 3 29 173 .26 27 112 14 510 21 — 17,169 2,744 3.714 1, 602 — — 42 701 129 39 29 — — — 102 14 13 14 — — 32 100 31 US 18 — 2 898 624 8 60 — . — 4,102 3,915 1,160 116 78 — — 90 1,265 210 430 65 — — 1 1,124 69 78 111 2 — 739 403 2,418 21 18 — 4 40 78 215 13 — 9 218 260 10 11 _ Total 2,606 493 598 695 11 224 6,204 8,322 4,265 Western Depart. ..1,055 1,067 620 4,433 Eastern Depart. . . . 2,606 493 598 695 2 — 17,169 2,744 3,714 1,398 11 224 6,204 8,322 4,265 886 Grand Total.... 3,661 1,560 1,218 5,128 13 224 23,373 11,066 7,1)79 2,284 * For explanation of the provincial terms under this head refer to page 57. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 113 reason this mediterranean city is named Santa Maria del Puerto del Principe, and its inhabitants are termed Camagueyanos.. San Juan de los Remedios was founded in 1545, at a town called Sabana, situated on a key, for which reason the term cayo is applied to the present town. Guanabacoa was an Indian town where, in 1554, the Indians wander- ing about the country were ordered to reside, and which in 1743 ob- taiued the title of villa. The other remarkable event during the admin- istration, of Velasquez was the erection of Baracoa into a city and bishopric in 1518, as the first town of the island, these distinctions being transferred to Santiago de Cuba in 1522. Velasquez died in 1524, in which year negroes were introduced to aid the Indians in their labors. The Spaniards then employed themselves chiefly in working the Cobre, Escambray, Jobabo and other mines, which, up to 1534, had yielded $260,000 of gold ; in cultivating the soil and raising cattle. The first government concession for an ingenio, or sugar estate, was made in 1535, and in the same year another was authorized near the Cerro (Havana) ; but the first known to have been established were — one at Guaicanama. (now Regla) in 1598, and others at Cidra and Canimaf in 1669. The sugar-cane was first introduced by Columbus from the Canaries into St. Domingo, on his second voyage, of the kind called cana criolla, or de la tierra. That of Otaheite was introduced in 1795, by Don Francisco Aran'go. In 1826 the striped and crystalline 1 were brought from New Orleans ; the purple, native of Java, having been introduced previously. The territory of the island was at first distributed by the governors in assignments to the colonists, such as Cortes, las Casas, Vasco Por- cayo, etc. ; but the greater part in grants, under the denomination of mercedes, by the corporations of the towns. These mercedes were ob- tained on solicitation, the use of the land only being granted, and their extent was two leagues radius for hatos and haciendas for cattle breed- ing, and one league radius for sitios or eorrales, or estates for raising swine, whence arose the circular form of such hatos and eorrales. The first merced was granted for the hacienda Manicaragua in 1536, and farther grants were prohibited in 1729. The first invasion of pirates, called buccaneers or fillibusters,* took place in 1538, when they reduced Havana to ashes. Governor Hernando de Soto went to assist the besieged on this occasion, leaving, as his lieu- * From fly-boat : and buccaneer, from doitcan, to make jerked beef, which they did, of the cattle obtained in their excursions. 114 Cub a : tenant in Cuba, his wife, Dona Ines de Bobadilla, in conjunction with Juan de Rojas. He immediately after commenced to build the castle De la Fuerza, which he finished in 1544, thereby- conferring more importance on the port of Havana, and inducing vessels bound for Mexico to touch there. The island was constituted a captain-generalship in 1589, when the authority was vested in Field-marshal Juan de Tejeda. The first sugar-cane plantations of any note were established in the vicinity of Havana in 1580. Of the cultivation of tobacco in the Vuelta- Abajo, the earliest record is in 1719, a great deal being raised at San- tiago de las Vegas about the middle of the last century. The pirates successively invaded Puerto Principe, Trinidad, San Juan de los Eemedios, Manzanillo, and Cuba. In the attack on Manzanillo in 1604, the pirate chief, Giron, passed to the town of Yara, and took prisoner Bishop Fray Juan de las Cabezas Altamirano, who was after- ward ransomed with 200 ducats, hides, and other goods, and his deten- tion revenged by the Bayamese, who captured the pirate in an ambush, and executed him. Third Epocls.— Organization : 1607-1762. This period was com- menced by the division of the island into two governments. Piratical invasions continued, the most remarkable being that of Olonois, who murdered 90 men sent out 'in a vessel against him ; Morgan, who sacked Puerto Principe ; and the invasion by Lord Windsor, who, in 1662 (a ■century before the capture of Havana by the British), attacked Santi- ago de Cuba, destroying the sumptuous edifice called Alto de Osuna, and blowing up the Morro Castle ; and finally, that of Vernon, who landed in the harbor of Guantanamo (which he named Cumberland), in 1741, and attempting to attack Cuba, was repulsed, and forced to re-embark with great loss. In 1693 Matanzas was founded on the site of the Indian town of Yucayo, and for the purpose 30 families were brought from the Canary Islands, during the governorship of Manzaneda. In 1722 ship- building for war purposes was commenced at Havana, upward of 125 ships having been built at the end of that century, viz., 6 three-deckers (2 of 120 guns each) ; 21 ships of 70 to 80 guns ; 26 of 50 to 60 ; 14 frigates of 30 to 40 ; and 58 smaller vessels. In 1728 the first coffee estate was established in the district of Ubajay, with the seed brought from St. Domingo by Don Jose Gelabert, for the purpose of making rum. This plant was not, however, extensively cultivated till the end of the last century, when the French emigrants from St. Domingo settled in the island. Printing was introduced into Cuba in 1695, and perhaps earlier into Havana. The Royal University was also founded during this epoch. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 115 Fourth Epoch* — Civilization : 1762-1801. The social progress of the island dates chiefly from the capture of Havana by the British, when the supreme government recognized the importance of the terri- tory. The said siege and capture of Havana occurred in 1762, in the reign of Charles III., and during the captain-generalship of Don Juan del Prado y Portocarrero. The 6th of June of that year a British squadron composed of some 200 vessels (including 24 ships of the line and 24 frigates) and 18,000 men, under Admiral Sir George Pococke, and conveying 14,000 troops under the Earl of Albemarle, laid siege to the city. Notwithstanding the unprepared state of the place, and the small force defending it (about 4,000 troops), the invaders met with a heroic resistance, especially from the Morro Castle, which was finally taken by storm, through a breach made by the enemy, the 80th of July. The British took possession of the place the 14th of August, under capitula- tion, and on the following day the nine Spanish ships "in port were de- livered to them, three others (Asia, Neptuno, and Europa) having been ,J sunk at the mouth of the port to close it. The possession of the invad- \ ers, however, did not extend farther than Matanzas and Mariel. Among the Spaniards who distinguished themselves on this occasion, history makes especial mention of Don Luis Vicente Velasco, colonel in the navy and governor of the Morro, who valiantly defended his post until struck down by a bullet in the chest, and expired 24 hours after with the fortitude of a hero ; his lieutenant, Marquez Gonzales, who lost his life in the action ; Don Luis Aguilar and Don Kafael de Cardenas, who defended the fort of Chorrera until commanded to abandon it, and then captured the heights of Taganana, which were fortified by the enemy ; Don Alejandro Arroyo, Don Francisco del Corral and Don Manuel Frias, who boldly assaulted the trenches of La Cabana ; Chacon, Lujan, Zaldivar, Ruiz (who perished in an assault), and the country- man from Guanabacoa, Don Jose Antonio Gomez (known as Pepe An- tonio), who, after performing prodigies of valor, perished miserably. The British continued in possession only a year, as, in consequence of the treaty of peace concluded at Paris between England, France, and Spain, the 10th of February, 1763, it was restored to Spain in exchange for the Floridas ; Count de Ricla, commissioned from Spain to take pos- sion, arriving the 30th of July following, bringing 2,000 troops under General the Count O'Reilly. During this period there was some immigration from Florida, and (in 1795) from St. Domingo, and mostly French ; the former introducing the Castilian bee, producing white wax, and the latter extending the culti- vation of coffee. The Intendancy and the Commandancy of Marine were instituted ; the island was divided into two bishoprics, -and in 1800 the 116 Cuba: Royal Court of Judicature (jludiencia) was transferred from St. Do- mingo to Puerto Principe, where it continued until 1853. Improvements were made in the ecclesiastical department and the police regulations ; the streets were named and lighted, and houses numbered ; theatres and public walks were established ; newspapers* and books were printed ; economical societies, public libraries, almshouses, and asylums, and the Junta de Fomento (formerly Consulado) were instituted ; scientific ex- ploring expeditions through the island were undertaken, steam-engines introduced, etc. Fifth Epoch.— Prosperity : since 1801.— During this period the island has increased in wealth and importance to such a degree that it takes a very prominent position among the countries of the world. Its prog- ress is chiefly due to free trade; initiated in 1778, and extended from the commencement of the present century. The reverberatory appara- tus for making sugar was introduced in 1801. The archbishopric and a great number of curacies were established. Vaccination introduced by Dona Maria Bustamente, who brought an inoculated infant from Porto Rico in 1804. The arrival of a multitude of emigrants from the dis- senting Spanish- American countries. The large donations made by the inhabitants to Spain during the French invasion. The declaration of freedom of forests and plantations in 1815. The monopoly of tobacco abolished, and its cultivation, sale, and trade declared free. Slave trade abolished in 1817. Freedom to demolish hatos and corrales. Confirma- tion of grants made under the name of mercedes, 1819. The first steam- boat established in the same year. Philharmonic societies instituted. Arrival of emigrants from Florida, in consequence of its final surrender by Spain. Several conspiracies and invasions in 1823-24 were smothered and defeated, the same as more recent ones. The publication of statis- tical returns, and a large topographical chart of the island. Copper mining extended. First appearance of cholera in 1833 (and subsequently in 1850). Excision in Cuba, 1836. The first line of railway (from Havana to Bejucal), in 1837. The establishment of a junta to propose especial laws for the island. The installation of the Real Audiencia Pretoria! in 1839. The destructive hurricanes of October, 1844 and 1846. Gas light introduced in 1846. Electric telegraph, 1852. Previous to free trade being declared, the expenses of the island were chiefly defrayed by the situados received from Mexico, while at present, notwithstanding the vast increase of the former, the revenue of the island affords a surplus of about $4,000,000. * The first periodical was published in 1782, under the name of Gaceta de la Tla* oana, and in 1793 the Papel Periodlco, afterward called Aviso, and ultimately Diario. Statistics of Cuba. 121 DISTRIBUTION OF LAND— IN CABALLERIAS.* Uuder Cul- JURISDICTIONS. tivation. "Western Department. PinardelRio 1,083 San Crist6bal 968 Bahia-Honda 170 Mariel 1,938 San Antonio 1,514 Habana, incl. I. de Pinos 5,355 Santiago 214 Bejucal 1,608 Guanabacoa 30S Eosario 481 Guinea 3,215 Jaruco 127 Matanzas 4,450 Cardenas 7,049 Sagua 1,703 Cienfuegos 1,484 Villa Clara 767 Trinidad 782 Eemedios 412 Santo Espiritu 470 Total 34,098 Eastern Department. Euerto Principe 763 Nuevitas 172 Tunas. : 188 Manzanillo 260 Holguin 989 Bayamo * 744 Jiguani 394 Cuba 8,399 Guantanamo 602 Baracoa 1,963 Total 14,474 Western Department. . . 34,098 Eastern Department . . . 14,474 Grand Total 48,572 Artificial Natural Mountains, Barren Grand Pasturage. Pasturage. Forests, etc. Land. Total. 2,272 17,317 24,770 26,536 71,978 190 5,256 5,845 5,274 17,533 260 219 8,391 - 5,724 14,764 231 1,932 2,608 " 4,364 11.073 122 652 295 416 2,999 150 7,842 967 2,98S 17,302 203 346 2,833 556 4,152 87 854 290 852 3,691 94 674 656 „ 1,497 3,229 85 1,411 1,401 2,620 5,99S 309 3.273 9,665 5,454 21,916 S8 161 3,992 5,552 9,920 950 4,050 2,425 4,735 16,610 1,325 7,469 1.082 7,529 24,454 197 3,266 16,888 6,322 28,376 2,163 25,967 14,959 5,027 49,600 514 14,783 6,150 3,855 26,069 1,529 1,543 5,325 7,662 16,841 1,674 1,748 22,340 21,119 47,293 2,740 3,259 43,529 24,056 74,054 15,183 102,022 174,418 142,138 467,859 658 67 50 1,248 94 824 50 928 1,118 121 15,183 5.158 3,970 78 10,356 13,401 2,574 4,493 1,194 7,780 2,004 1,376 45,399 40,502 25,636 3,232 27,600 13,857 5.897 15,891 17,765 6,802 65,713 3,014 16,600 8,620 17,651 5,459 6,076 2S,598 9,424 18,114 102,022 47,226 174,413 202.584 142,138 179,269 116,503 43,833 52,830 26.761 48,908 25,377 13,611 61,596 30,913 28,376 5,153 47,226 202,584 179,269 448,711 467.S59 448,711 ,341 149,248 377,002 321,407 916,570 * The caballeria is equal to about 33 acres. 6 '*^T Statistics of Cuba. CHIEF AGRICULTURAL PRODUCTS IN 1852. JURISDICTIONS fT' f° laSSeS ' Eum - Coffe ^ Wax, Honey, Totacm, E^lf? 41 ' 001 200 260 2,907 1,427 497 49,702 12 ™? 1S6 ' 90 ° 14 ' 321 96 ° 29 > 508 1^1 1,601 10 3 4 Bahia-Honda 460,428 4,384 1,500 2,801 326 370 1120 XTL"- 1 ' 198 ' 902 48 ' 9 ° 4 3 ' 721 41 ' 804 800 793 10,80? pilna ^ ^ ^ 161 ' 724 4S0 ^ W 5SS° : ' ::::::::: 16 °' 876 4 ' 1W 26 ° 113 ' 524 ^ B81 TO ^ 6JUCa 180,996 1,900 892 70,965 290 899 500 Guanabacoa 77,853 973 _ L 30 -,« _ Sf° -■■ 77 ' 548 i' 500 120 27,974 700 131 2 700 ST,? ■ 975 ' 876 7 ' 224 -l^° 27 524 900 824 971 S™ •• 540,724 11,500 450 50,201 399 1,380 600 Matanzas 5,300,081 33 818 2.164 40 W 7nn ,f 2,164 40,S29 700 1,500 sZr" '"•'*' y,yn ' 3 ° 2 60 ' 80 ° U > m I 6 ' 124 2 > 4 °0 480 1100 Sa S Ua 2,987,524 21,600 1.784. mt * n*r n£ 7ZZ Cardenas..... -.. 8 ,871,302 2T0 21,600 1,784 467 1^077 970 s'oOl f ei ; fu ^ 08 1^0,024 21,310 890 _ 1312 1090 "742 Sd^T S 5 ' 825 M4 87 ° W S 16, IZel S04I JJS 22 42 ' 924 81 ° ^ 3500 h™* T .V t 520,481 4,074 875 4,784 3,288 5 347 5 994 Sant ° E8pintU ^2,528 4,348 1,180 4,308 7,505 l^ ^ T ° tal 25,397,167 258,204 29,901 639,268 7^ "^794 11^07 Eastern Department. ZZZT::::. Jg. ^ * - - 2 S 4 S Sr—. •::.•::::: S ,5 Z -„ £ gj t » "*"" 8M .™ 1,897 1,319 4S0 44S5 S87M 14TS8 &::::::::-■ S S wo : u 22 > 580 r 9 i;22S s ^ **" -» i,,bI v fr s9e7so iS ,£ fi» £rrr.::::- 137 1o 4 » ™ TS, 8 w « 8 " _ _^ 80 10 9,821 400 160 2,845 T ° taI 3 ' 767 ' 469 8 » 9 81 9,510 527,635 l^Ol ^81~ 108,-613 Western Department 25,397,167 258,204 29.901 639,268 49,602 42,794 113 407 Eastern Department ^767469 8,981 9,510 527,635.25,301 63.381 Liol 1,613 GrandT ° taI 29 ' 1 65 ^36 267 ,185 39,411 1,166,903 "7^ 106^5 ^020 » SJS^S 1849 ^ f Zr lnCiP&l C ° PPer m, ' neS ° f the Del Cobre dist »^ produced S .1 7',r m 1852 tQey Pr ° dUCed ° nIy 17 'U 7 tons - Nue ^ in 1862 ex- ported 51 tons of that ore ; and in the present year, 1853, the mines of Vuelta Abafo are producing considerable quantities. Vuelta-Abajo Statistics of Cuba. 123 I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I " I I I I S I I I 8 1—1 i? § O 2 5 ^ jz OS co HH O co co CM o CO 1 ft H CO ca co" CO CM 1 t-3 «r © 1— i o | s 1 CO CO CO 1 1 H I » W o H 1 i C5 in CO CO oq *# » fe •"*" co' O o I 3 £ -# CO OS EH on to CM (S § s c§ CO o Oa O W 1 co ■■* Pm CM 99 ft „ to T-< W ,§ s oa CO oa I CS3 i— i 1 1 to P3 H «© o i! co CO CO 1 8 5 3" sS 1 CO § o i H * 1 ca" ■<* ^H ft CO CM t- >? « CO o Jz. c3 =u oa ^ OS co" CO o i— i CO CO CO tH EH O 1 1 6 <5 § 1 1 I .1 s S I « 3 §§ 8 ! 5 I I I I I I I ! I I I I g I I I I I I I T- lH «5 CO CO eg r-i *- G* I I I I I *= I I I I I 1 T3 £ '3 8 a 5 S H 3 fc co Q *- I l-l i-l CO I I I I I I I I I I I I rj CM CO 124 Statistics of Cuba, ■<* CM OS O «D lO CO C3 CM 00 GO t- T-i r-i CO t- t- CM CO b- OJ CO 00 CO ffl a to o eT ro" io t-i SSSJ^FsrJt-osT-iosocsioio ^TtlC0t-OI— c-lCMCMC00505<0-rrl __. T-^G0C0^G0_C^*--,COC0C0t-lOC0OSCNl if S^K°^3ao»ot~«r-r4'coco''t-^ O C ^ t O£5'r-li--l'£«OTjlCOe©t-T-ICOT-l £ <0 CM C» QS CO CO CO CO CO IQ Tj PJ2, t 5 t "°° c;,ooc:,OCOTH t— lO to tH t> w eo to t-i ,-T CO lO rH CO (O h ^ t- O t-I CO CM CM CM CM Th C T-I CM tO t)< CO «o j •" "C C S © * -C .2 a S H Q £ € © go O i=> S W O Statistics of Cuba. 125 QUANTITY OF SUGAR EXPORTED, 1791-1850. Years. Arrobas. 1791 1.360.224 1792 1,165.66-4 1793 1.347.520 1794 .'.... 2,458,064 1795 1.241,128 1796 2.040,120 1797 2,003,192 179S 2,272.008 1799 2.763,768 1800 2,3S7.6SS 1801 2,671,592 1802 3,384.600 1S03 2,642,S24 1804 3,217,416 1805 2,906,838 Quinquennial Periods. Arrobas. 1791-1795 1,514.520 1796-1 S00 2,293.855 1801-1805 2.964.654 1806-18 10 3,020,240 Arrobas. 1806... .. 2,61S.296 1807... .. 3,014,488 1808. . .. 2,120,136 1S09 . . . .. 4,081,112 1810... .. 3.267,168 1811... .. 2,6S9J76 1812... .. 2.144,240 1813... .. 3,018,704 1814... .. 8.060.532 1S15... .. 8.580.504 1816... .. 3.3S5.92S 1817... .. 3.569. 2S0 1618... .. 3.592.1S4 1819... .. 3.434,190 1820... . .. 3,947,624 Years. 1821... .. 4. 1822... . . 4. 1S23... .. 5. 1824... . . 4. 1825... .. 4. 1826... . . 6, 1S27... . . 5 1828... .. 5. 1829... .. 6, 1S30... .. 7, 1831... .. 7, 1S32... .. 7. 1833... .. 7, 1S34... .. 8. 1835.. .. 8 Arrobas. 34S.S40 910,S56 781,682 986.264 .498,939 ,237,390 87S.924 .967,066 ,588.428 ,S68.881 ,133,381 .583 413 ,624,553 .408,231 .718,800 Years. Arrobas. 1S36 8,895.966 1837 9.060,053 1838 10.417,688 1889 9,505.214 1840 12.S63.S56 1841 13.272912 1S42. 1S43. 1844. 1S45. 1S46. 1847. 1S4S. 1849. 1S50. 13.0S2.2S8 14,225.660 16,153.052 7,604,580 15.803.SS4 2u.396.976 19.659.4S8 17,598,144 19,993.SoS Quinquennial Average. Quinquennial Periods. Arrobas. 1811-1815 2,S9S,751 1816-1820 3.611,641 1S21-1S25 4.905.316 1S26-1S30 6,50S,137 Quinquennial Periods. Arrobas. 1831-1835 7.893,575 1S36-1840 10,148.555 1841-1845 12,S67.69S 1S4G-1850 18,690,460 RUM, COFFEE, Bum, Years. pipas _ . 1S26 2.597... 1S27 2,457... 1828 2.S64... 1829 4,518... 1SS'» 5.594... 1S31 3,838... 1832 3,423... 1833 3,227... 1S34 3.648... 1835 5,815... 1836 3,888... 1S37 3,450... 1S3S 5,408... 1839 8,219... 1840 10,209... 1841 ll,3o2... 1S42 10.227... 1848 13^10.. 1844 6?26... 1S45 4.120... 1S46 9,032... 1847 19,432... 1848 16.339.. 1849 11.640... 1850 11,825.. TOBACCO, ETC., EXPORTED 1826-1850. Quinquennial Periods. 1826-1880.. 1831-1835.. 1836-1840.. 3841-1845.. Molasses, Boca yes. 68,880.... 74.083... 86.891..., 63,537... 66,218... 83.001... 100.17S... 95,768... 104.213... 109.233... 109,549 . . . 114.975... 134.802... 136.447... 146.464... 131.390... 119.138... 191.093... 172,431... 121.322... 203.597... 252. S40... 228.726... 246.570... , 269,044... 1.773,798. 2.001.5S4. 1,284,088. 1.736.258. 1.798.598. 2.180.5S2. 2.048,890 . 2.566,359. 1,817.315. 1,416.015. 1.610,441. 2.133.568. 1.550.341. 1.950 809. 2,143.574. 1.285.006. 1.998.S46. 1.631.782. 1,240.032. 559.322. 817.662. 932,154. 694.137. 877.137. 520.134. Wax, Arrofris. 22,918. 21,404. 23,482. 3S,740. 29.S50. 30.203. 41.536. 35.25S. 31,064. 2S.259 39.264. 28.296. 30.815. 26.132. 32.024. 83.3S4. 4S.101 . 84,276. 89.251 . 41.716. 51,995. 50.110. 35.691. 58,194. Quinquennial Average. Bum, Pipas. 8,606.. 3.991... 6.235.. 9.157.. 1846-1850 13,653. Molasses, Bocoyes. 71.921. 98,47S. 12S.447. 147.074. 2 10,155 Cofl'ee, Arrobas. 1.718.865., 1,995,832.. 1.877.444.. 1.832.997., 768,244. "Wax, Arrobas. 25 7S9 . . . 33 5S2... 32,253... 37,4o7... 48,141... Tobacco, Arrobas. 79,5S1 . . . 79,106... 70,031... 125.502... 160,358... 117.454.. 76,430 . . . 92,476... 87,154... 125.303.. 22S,519.. 179,503.. 194,799.. 204,947 . . 169.671.. 230,3o3.. 237.713.. 230,303.. 237,713.. 2SS,329.. 353.041.. . 372,780.. . 251,025.. , 160,765.. . 319,125.. Tobacco, Arrows. 102.915. 99,763. 195.487. 244.S72. 291,347. Cigars, Libras. . 197,194 . 167.362 . 210.335 . 243.-443 . 407,153 . 331.433 . 44S.123 . 617.713 . 616,020 . 346,675 . 51S.443 . 792.438 . 916 406 . 874,258 . 849.824 . 850.856 . 751 445 . 1,289.985 . 792.525 . 1,022.525 , . 766.782 ,. 1,224.060 . . 807.400 .. 61S.600 , . 1,063.200 Cigars, iAbnts. 245.097 471.993 790.2S5 941.467 896,008 126 Statistics of Cuba. COPPER EXPORTED— 1841-1850. Years. Quintals. 1841 693,060 1842 784,971 1843.. 768,650 1844 2,003,587 1845 869,922 Quinquennial average 624,C Years - Quintals. 1846 635.654 184T 565495 1848 . 656,491 1849 588,810 1850 552,283 Quin quennial average 598,647 VALUE OF COMMERCE WITH FOREIGN NATIONS— 1850-1853. IMPORTATION OK SPANISH VESSELS. Countries. 1850. 1851. 1852. i 8 53. United States $40,971 $43,353 $295,935 $15,686 England 4,073,892 5,105,634 4.272,813 4,993,511 Erance 1,196,526 1,161,604... 1,716,301 l,73o'350 Germany : 1,790,066 1,584,043 1,010,631 934,984 Spanish America.... 1,638,746 2,339,360 1,750,103 1,564,029 IMPORTATION ON FOREIGN VESSELS. Countries. 1S50. 1851. 1852. 1853. United States $6,612,2S9 $8,104,423 $6,255,350 $6,784,045 England 2,043,776 2,269,323 1,365,910 1,202,409 France 551,053 576,764 4S7.053 446^62 Germany 817,227 268,582 188,371 180,955 Spanish America .. . 302,918 420,437 394,515 116^457 EXPORTATION ON SPANISH VESSELS. Countries. 1850. 1851. 1852. 1853. United States $S4,631 $32,774 $42,785 $60,805 England 722,145 1,048,067 1,044,927 1,713,505 Erance 450,139 624,126 528,856 436,140 Germany 674,045 804,512 610.886 655,786 Spanish America 516,683 915,940 5S0.074 454.129 EXPORTATION ON FOREIGN VESSELS. Countries. 1850. 1851. 1852. 1853. United States $8,274,621 $13,190,080. England 6,338,921 c 11,829. France 1,412,402 839,042. Germany 1,197,474 1 ,437.708 . Spanish America 60 554 131,128 . 12,033,623... .. $12,074,290 4,441,749... . . 6,709,330 984.512... . . 2,857,248 1,079,279... 818.282 221,085... 60.702 Statistics of Cuba. 127 COMMERCIAL MOVEMENT— 1826-1850. Ave mge Annual Average Annual Aver. Annual Value Quinquennial * f E rts> of Total Commerce. Periods Value of Imports. Value of Exports, 96 1830 .- $15.412,689 $12,717,929 $2S,130,618 f q ?1S ... 16,756,448 12.837,339 29,643,787 ISl'l^ '.:..... 21,662,766 18,503,648 40,166,414 ^l t S45 22,472,355 24.099,646 46,572,001 : S::::; - :: 27,150,754 *«>*» 51,979,742 l851 ...... 32,315,145 31,349,357 63,665,102 REVENUE OF THE ISLAND— 1826-1850. Maritime Revenue. Internal __^_ ■ , Revenue. Imports Exports. Total. Total. S>6 ...$3,782,409 $901,343 $4,683,753 $2,414,182 ;«„ 4,412.963 1,246,916 5,659,879 2,810,094 till 4,194,495 1,114,641 5,309.136 3,777,270 1S29 '.'. 3,938,596 1.255.371 5,193,967 3,94S,642 \lZ "..3,636.716 1,390,379 5,027,095 3,945,452 ISl "" ' 3,932,505.. 852,959 4,795,465 3,5:Jl,,739 lit 3,880,103........ 912.074 4,792,178 3,645.228 .La" 4208.706 1.026,664 v . 5,235,371 3,660.185 tToA 4 40^314 692,974 5,098,283 3,847,446 ™ 4 791777 ... 634,256 5,426,033 3,371,149 ™Z 5017!21T 726,576 5,743,793 3,523,472 Joo? 4W,780 811.995 5,S09.775 3,027.390 ™ 5 246,008 852,246 6,098.254 3,574.459 ]tZ" 6,113,508 1,249,570 7,363,07S 8,841,856 1840 '.5,951,801 1,435,696 7,387,498....;... 4,118.804 L„ 5,943,819 1,322.644 7,266,404 3,848,831 84 2 6.005,633 1,377,714 7,383.346 4,2SS.626 iq4 o ..5,398,339 1,590,677 6,9S7,017 3,407,040 *7. 6 020,403 1,140,228 7.160 631 3,329.621 Z* 5Wl6 574,831 5,970,743 3.221,329 iLs 5413422 739.379 6.152,802 4,937.976 1S 4 7 6 601,233 893,094 7.494,331 5,314 3S1 18 4 S 6,174,533 709,325 6,SS3,S5S 6.038,715 1849 .5,844,783 584.477 6,429,260 6,235,068 1850 '.'.'.'.'.'. !'.".".".... 5,964,147 757,103 6,721,260 5,527,462 Quinquennial Aver a 3 e. ^Periods!" 111 Imports. Exports. Total. Internal. 1826-1830 $3,933,036 $1,181,780 $5,174,766 $3,379,123 1831-1835 4,243,681 825,T86 5,069,467 3,605,149 1836-1840 5,465,263 1,015,216 6,4S0,480 3,617,096 1841-1845 5,752,522 1,201,119 6,953,641 3,619,099 1S46-1850 5,999,624 736,675 6 736,300 5,620,720 APPENDIX 1st. According to the general trade returns of Spain for 1849 ana 1850, the mercantile movement of the entire peninsula in 1850 amount- ed to $59,295,478, exclusive of bonded goods amounting to $2,189,723, but including the Balearic and Canary Islands. Of that sum, $34,606,544 was in imports and $24,688,934 in exports; and $47,949,643 in foreign trade, and $11,345,835 in trade with its ultramarine possessions. The foreign importation amounted to $29,033,807, and the exportation to $18,915,836. Of the trade with the distant possessions, the importation was $5,572,737, and the exportation $5,773,098, being a total of $11,345,834, of which $9,658,464 corresponds to Cuba, $909,923 to Porto Rico, and $777,448 to the Philippine Islands ; consequently Cuba alone supports nearly the whole of this trade, which may be divided thus : Imports. Exports. Total £ ,lba '- $4,537,897..... $5,120,567 $9,658464 PortoElco 504,61S 405,305 909 923 Philippines 530,222 247,226... 7T 7^448 Total $5,572,737 $5,773,098 $11^835 The comparison of the returns of 1850 with those of 1849 show a de- crease in the imports from Cuba and Porto Rico, and an increase in the exports. The total amount of trade of the Peninsula of Spain and adjacent islands is as follows : tt , „ . , „ Imports. Exports. Total. Under Spanish flag $29,193,220 $10,818,211 $40.011431 Under foreign flag 3,700,969 11,520,780 15 221749 Byland 1,712,355 2,349,943. 4,062,298 Total $34,606,544 $24,638,934 $59,295,478 The total estimated expenditure of the nation for 1853 amounted to $61,414,826, and the revenue to $61,629,876, of which $2,222,150 was to be contributed by Cuba, $300,000 by Porto Rico, and $400 000 by the Philippine Islands. Appendix. 129 2d. Statement of production and consumption of cane-sugar, coffee, and tobacco on the globe.(a) Producers. Su S ar - Coffee> Tobacco. c „baa852) 6,340,554.... 184,800.... 269,000 British West Indies (1851)(6) 3,359,214. ... - . . . . — British East Indies (1851) 1,T63,86T.... — .... — Mauritius (1851) 1,108,888.... — .-..-? Martinique (1851) 127,32S.... — .... — Guadaloupe (1851) 52,100.... — .... — Dutch Guiana (1S46) 300,000.... — .... — St. Eustatia 500.... — .... — Curacoa 375,000?..- - .... - French and Dutch possessions in America(c) .... — .... 100,000 .... — Danish W. I. (St. Thomas, St. Croix, and St. John) . 24,000 ? . . — . . . . — Brazil(d) 2,000,000.... 3,139,240.... - Venezuela - •••• 400,000.... - United States (1850)*(«) 2,441,093. ... - .(/)1,997,000 Mexican States (1S44) 450,000.... — .... — Spanish Peninsula (1849) 10,000.... — .... — Philippine Islands 125,000.... 31,250.... 150,000 Bourbon Island 425,512.... — .... — Java 100,000.... 1,250,000.... — SumatraEEEEEE - •••• 50,000.... - Sandwich Islands (1852) 52,000.... — .... — China, Siam, etc., in Asia 500,000.... — .... — Ceylon - •••• 375,000.... Celebes 22,500... Malabar — •••• 47,500.... — Arabia - •••• 45,000.... - Hindostan — ••■• 40,0Q0.... — France^) - ..,■ ~ •••• 262 > 500 Switzerland — ■••• — •••• 2 ' 750 Pontifical States. Sardinia. 17,500 :,O0O Naples - .... ~ .- 15,000 Austria and her possessions — ■_••• — •••• 375,000 Germany 500,000 Holland - ..- - ••■• 50,000 Belgium - .... - •••• ™>000 Denmark — — 2 - 250 Eussiat (Poland 30,000) — .... — •••• 250,000 Wallachia — •••• — •••• ls > s50 Total quintals 20,549,556. . . . 6,184,8 4,051,850 * United States crop of maple sugar in 1850, 340,000 quintals (one-third in New York State and one-fifth in Vermont), t Russia produces 522,000 quintals of cane and beet-root sugar. 6* 130 Notes to Appendix. Consumers. Sugar.* England (1852) (/i)7.552,362 France _ 2,000,000. . . , France and southern Europe (except Spain) Holland, Belgium, Germauy, Prussia, and Austria (including Lombardo- Venetian territory, and de- ducting re-exportation to Eussia, etc.), of which 625,000 to Bremen, Hamburg, and Lubec 2,125,000 Germany without Austria -. Austrian dominions Germany and Northern Europe,. _ Holland (31,250) and Belgium (45,000) — Trieste, Venice, etc : 625,000 s P ain (*) • - i,ooo',ooo . . ( j Portugal 200,000.... Eussia 810,000.... Denmark Denmark and Sweden 225 000. .. Sweden and Norway Italy (exclusive of Lombardo- Venetian territory), Sicily, Malta, Turkey, Greece, and Levant in gen- eral 112,500.... Italy _ United States 4,250,000. ] '. '. Canada, Australia, Cape of Good Hope, etc 600,000 Canada Coffee. 375,000.. 1,250,000. Tobacco. 275,000 350,000 — ... 500,000 — . . . 4,250 1,750,000 — 1,250,000 . . . 76,250 )1,500,000 . . (&)152,S46 — ... 2,000 — . . . 5,000 — . . . 12,500 _ ... 22,500 750,000 160,000 20,000 Total quintals 19 499 ! 7,035,000... 1.420.346 NOTES TO APPENDIX. (a) The want of uniformity iu statistical arrangement among the few nations that publish such records, is a great obstacle to their usefulness. It often happeus that in statements of exports no mention is made whether the place has produced or merely exported, and we have consequently been obliged to make use of data referring to ex- portation, and not to production, the latter having scarcely any existence. Cuba in 1852 appears to have produced 29,165,238 arrobas, and exported 25,362,216 arrobas. In 1S51 the exportation attained the enormous amount of 1,549,893 boxes, or about 28,000,000 arrobas. (b) The reduction to Spanish weight has been calculated at 110.434 lbs. Spanish to the British cwt., and 2.173 lbs. Spanish to the French kilogramme. The production of Jamaica included in the above was 627,769 cwt. Said island in the four years ending 1803 produced 135,331 hogsheads; in 1844-48, 41,872 hhds., and in the three years end- ing 1851, 3S,937. Its largest crop was 150,000 hhds., in 1805. {Henderson's Jamaica Almanac, 1S53.) British Guiana in 1852 exported 739,120 cwt. ; this colony and Bar- badoes being the only ones of the British possessions that do not evince decay. Ac- cording to official data there were in Jamaica, in 1852, 128 estates entirely abandoned Tropical and colonial. Notes to Appendix. 131 and Tl where the cultivation of the cane had been partially relinquished. Consequently the situation of that island is the most wretched among all the British possessions, but it is yet to be seen to what point her more fortunate sisters will be able to withstand the equalization of duties in 1854. (c) Martinique produced in 1851, 110,938 kilog. of coffee, and 149,033 of cocoa. {d) Rio Janeiro exported during the year ending May, 1853, the amount of 1,968,625 bags of coffee, of which 1,066,311 to the United States. In 1838 Cuba sent 33.051,061 lbs. of coffee to the United States, while Brazil sent only '27,411,986 lbs. In 1851 Cuba sent to the same markets 3,099,084 lbs., and Brazil 107,578,257 lbs. (See De Bow's In- dustrial Eesources, etc.) («) The crop of Louisiana for 1851-52 was 236,547 hhds. ; that of 1S52-53 was 321,934 hhds. ; and that of 1S53-4 was 449,324 hhds. The quantity of molasses was 27,500,000 gallons. This result was produced by 1,4S1 establishments, of which 943 were worked by steam, and 538 by horse-power. The crop of Texas in the year 1S52-3 was 11,023 hhds., averaging 1,000 lbs. In 1S50 there was produced by Louisiana 226,001 hhds., South' Carolina 77, Georgia S46, Florida 2,750, Tennesse 3, Alabama 87, Mississippi 8, and Kentucky 10' hhds.— total of United States, including crop of Texas, 237,133 hhds., which, at the rate of 1,000 lbs. per hogshead, gives a total of 237,133,000 lbs., or in round numbers 2,370,000 quintals. The crop ending January, 1855, has exceeded all pre- vious ones. (/) According to the census of 1840 the yield of tobacco in the United States was 2.191,633 quintals, showing a falling off of 224,177 quintals in 1850. (g) France— crop of beet-root sugar in 1852-53, 1,635,731 quintals. According to the monthly official statements published by the French government, the production of beet-root sugar in France from 1st September, 1S52, to 31st August of the present year, was 75,275,235 kilog., equal to about 400,000 boxes, and being an excess of 6,692,120 kilog. over the crop of 1851-52; but as the latter showed a decrease of 7| millions kilog. on that of 1850-51, it may be considered nearly an average yield. This result has not corresponded with the expectations entertained during the first months of the crop. However, the number of establishments seems to indicate progress as it in- creases. There were 304 at work the 31st August, 1851, 329 at the same date in 1852, and the number at present is 337 * In Russia there are 3S0 manufactories of cane and beet-root sugar (77 of which are worked by steam), producing annually 522,000 quintals. We have no late statements of the production of beet-root sugar in Belgium, Prussia, Austria, etc., and in Great Britain it is insignificant as yet (h) 6,519,267 quintals British colonial sugar, and 1,033,095 foreign, (i) In 1852 were shipped from this island to the Peninsula 190,848 boxes of sugar. (?) Coffee from Cuba to Spain in 1852, 106,666 arrobas. (k) As follows: 8,200,000 lbs. Kentucky and Virginia, 145,814 lbs. also of Virginia, 1,115,862 Marron-Kentucky, 14,379 Holland, 4,967,821 Philippine Islands, and 851,458 lbs. Cuba tobacco. (See Sr. Rodriguez-Ferrer's work, El Tabaco Habano.) In 1852 there was exported from Cuba to Spain 2,104,812 lbs. leaf tobacco, 11,247 thousand cigars, and 467,041 packets of cigarettes. • According to the official returns last published, the number of beet-root sugar manufactories in Prance at the" end of April last was 208, being 95 less than at the corresponding period of last year. The quantity of sugar made was 43,955,970 kilogrammes, being a decrease of 31,551,9-15 kilogrammes as compared with the same period of 1854. The amount given above for the sugar crop of Curasoa is much too large, in my opinion, while that of the Danish West India islands is underrated.— Translator. A MEMOIE OF THE ISLAND OF PORTO RICO, BY J. T. O'NEIL, OF ST. JOHN'S. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. The Spanish Island of Puerto Eico (Saw Juan Bautista de), the smallest and most easterly of the Great Antilles, and meriting, by its beauty and fertility, the appellation of " The Cup of Gold," bestowed upon it by the figurative Spaniards, is situated in the Atlantic Ocean, between latitudes 17° 54' and 18° 30' 40" north, and longitudes 65° 37' 40" and 67° 16' 6" west of Greenwich. Relative Position.— Lying immediately west of the Virgin Islands, east of Cuba and Hayti (which lies between), north of the continent of South America, and open to the north : added to its compact form and compara- tively clear coasts, the island is eminently qualified for a centre of trade.* Extremities. — The most prominent are, Punta de San Francisco on the west, Cabeza de San Juan on the north-east, Cabo de Mala-pascua on the south-east, and Los Morrillos de Cabo Rojo on the south-west. Form. — Parallelogramic, and greatly resembling the trunk of an ox ; the headland of Cabeza de San Juan at the upper end of the neck ; Cabras islets and Punta Corcho, the lower ; Cabo Mala-pascua at the curve of the chest ; Punta Aguila and Los Morrillos de Cabo Rojo at the lower part of the buttock ; Punta San Francisco projecting like the * From the Island of Porto Eico you may escape from the region of the general or trade winds into that of the variables merely by steering to the north ; and as this island is so far to windward, it is easy to gain all the easting that is necessary for going to the Lesser Antilles or Caribbee Islands. Tou may gain thus to windward, and beating with the breeze, without being under the necessity of running into high latitudes to catch the variables. From this island you may on one stretch catch any point of the Columbian main, from La Guayra to leeward.— Blunt" a Coast Pilot. 134 Porto Rico: stump of a tail ; Puntas Pena-agujereada and Bruguen, or Penas-blanoas, at the rump ; and Fronton de Vacia-talega and Punta Miquillo at the curve of the shoulder. Boundaries. — On the north the Atlantic Ocean ; on the north-east the reefy space that connects it with Culebras island (separated from the island of St. Thomas by a narrow passage) ; on the south-east the pas- sage between it and the island of Vieques ; on the south the Caribbean Sea ; and on the west Mona Passage. Neighboring Land.— The island of Hayti or St. Domingo on the west ; that of St. Thomas on the north-east, and that of St. Croix on the south- east, each of the three being distant about sixty miles. On the north the nearest land is the island of Bermuda, and on the south the island of Cura§oa and the South American continent. Extent. — Length from Cabeza de San Juan on the east to Punta de San Francisco on the west, 96 miles. Breadth from the city of St. John's on the north to the port of Jobos on the south, 35 miles. Mean length about 86, and mean breadth 34 geographical miles. Area.— 2,706 geographical, or 3,695 statute miles ; and adding 257 estimated for the islands of Vieques, Culebras, Mona, etc., the total area is 3,865 square statute miles. Circumference.— About 270 miles, of which about 195 are nearly equally divided between the north and south coasts, and 75 between the east and west coasts. Coasts.— The coasts of the island are, in general, well defined and of easy access, although in some places (especially on the south-west and north-east) obstructed by reefs and banks of mud and sand. They do not contain more than seven harbors meriting the name, but there are many commodious bays, roadsteads, and anchorages. Vessels may run along either the north or south coast without risk, at a distance of three miles from the former, and five from the latter, taking care to avoid the islet of Caja de Muertos, which lies about four miles from the centre of the south coast. Nearer the island the north coast is rugged and un- even, having many rocks and keys on which the sea breaks heavily, and the whole south coast, from the Morrillos de Cabo Bojo to Cabo Mala- pascua, is of double land, and very foul, with reefs, islets, and shoals stretching out from it. On the east coast also are numerous islets and rocks, which can not be approached by large vessels, and lie between the island and the islets of Culebras and Vieques. Though the passages among these islets and rocks are generally deep, they should only be attempted by practiced pilots. Vessels coming from the north may sail round the north-west point of the island within a mile of the shore, and in 20 to 25 fathoms. The northernmost half of the west coast is Physical, Political, and Industrial. 135 pretty clear, but the southernmost is "beset by many shoals and reefs, which imperatively demand the erection of a light-house. Capes and Points.— The north-western extremity of the island is formed by Punta Bruguen or Borinquen (a high and steep cliff), and Punta de Pena-agujereada, whence, eastward, the principal ones are— Punta de la Isabela; Punta del Manglillo and the Morrillo de Arecibo, with the roadstead of Arecibo between ; Punta de Caracoles ; Puntas Marunguey and Lavadero, with the anchorage of Palmas Altas between ; Puntas°Boquilla, Puerto-nuevo, Cerro-gordo, Frailes, and Salinas, which last is the northern extremity of the Cabras islets, which, with the Morro (on which is a light), form the mouth of the harbor of St. John's ; Fronton de Vacia-talega, Punta Miquillo, Punta San Diego, and Cabeza de San Juan, the north-eastern extremity of the island. On the east are Puntas Marunguey and Corcho, between which are the islets of Palomino, Pinero, and Cabras, and the port of Fajardo; Punta de la Lima (northernmost point of the bay of Fajardo), and Punta de Candeleros (southernmost point of the bay of Humacao) , witb,Cayo Santiago between ; Punta de Baracoa, Fronton de Guayanes, Puntas Quebrada-honda, Ye- guas and Naranjo, and Cabo de Mala-pascua, which is the south-eastern extremity of the island. On the south are Puntas Viento and Guilarte, with the roadstead of Patillas between ; Punta Colorados or Figuras, and Punta Barrancas, with the roadstead of Guayama between ; Puntas Pozuelos and Colchones, with the port of Jobos between; Puntas Arenas and Fama, with the port of Salinas de Coamo between ; Puntas Coamo and Boca-chica ; Puntas Caballon and Cucharas, with the bay of Ponce between ; PeHon de Tallaboa ; Penon de Guayanilla and Punta Vaquero, with the bay of Guayanilla between ; Punta Picua and Fronton de Brea, with the harbor of Guanica between ; Puntas de Guanica, Salinas, isla de Cabras, and de la Parguera; Los Morrillos de Cabo Rojo* and Punta del Aguila at the south-western extremity of the island. On the west we Punta de Palo-Seco ; Puntas de Melones aud Guaniquilla, with the bay of Boqueron between ; Puntas de Pedernal and Ostiones, with the port of Cabo Rojo between; Punta Arenas ; Puntas de Guanajibo and Algarrobo, with the bay of Mayagues between; Puntns Cadena and Rincon, with the small bay of Rincon between, and the cape called Punta de San Francisco projecting a little below the north-western ex- tremity of the island, and between which and Punta de Penas-blancas, a little above, is the bay of Aguadilla. 1 * These rest on a coral bank, close to the outer edge of which no bottom has been found. Two or three leagues to the eastward and westward there are 10. 12, and 15 fathoms water. 136 Porto Rico : Adjacent Islets* and Keys.— On the north, the islet of Cabrita with- out, and Cabras within, the entrance of the harbor of St. John's, and forming the west side of it. On the east, the islet of Hicacos, east of Cabeza de San Juan ; islet of Palominos, east of Fajardo ; islet of Pinero, east of Ceiba ; islets of Cabras, Cayo Algodones and Cayo Santiago ; islets of Culebra, Culebrilla, Culebrita, and Peluda, which are also known as Little Passage Islands, and extend nearly up to St. Thomas ; and Vieques or Crab Island, south-south-west of the former ; it is large, and contains a town. On the south are Cayo Berberia, islet Frio, islet of Caja de Muertos or Dead Man's Chest, the two islets of Canagorda, near the port of Guanica, and Cayo Ratones. On the west, Cayo Fon- duco, the islets of Mona, Monito, and Desecheo or Zacheo. Reefs and Snoals.— On the north coast they are not well determined, but do not extend far from the shore. On the east are many reefs and shoals stretching out between the main island and the numerous islets in its close proximity ; but the passages between them are deep, and readily made by good pilots. Those on the west coast comprise— Bajo Gallardo, which is about three cables length in extent, six and one-half miles due west (nearly) from Punta de Melones : least depth of water on it three fathoms, with rocky bottom : its bearings are, Zacheo, north by west (three-fourths west), Atalaya, south by west (three-fourths west), and the southern extremity of the Morrillos, east-south-east ; Las Coronas and Coronitas, which are shoals of sand, on which the sea breaks at times, and extending scarcely a mile in any direction : dis- tance from the coast about three and one-half miles, and bearing nearly south-west by south from Punta de Guanajibo, and south one-half east from Punta Giguera ; Bajo Media Luna, a reef about five miles, from the coast, two-thirds of a mile in length, north and south, and about two and one-half cables in breadth : the sea always breaks on it, the same as on three rocks distant from it half a mile east-north-east, and showing above water : the northern extremity of the reef is nearly south- west by west from Punta de Guanajibo, and south from Punta Giguera ; a shoal westward two miles from Punta de Guaniquilla, about two cables in extent, with three fathoms water on it, and a rocky bottom : it bears south by west (three-fourths west) from Punta de Guanajibo, and south three-fourths east from Punta de Giguera ; the rocky shoal Las Manchas, extending about three miles west-north-westerly from Punta de Algarrobo : there are two and one-half to four fathoms water on it, but vessels may pass very well between it and the shore, there being a good channel inside from the bay of Aiiasco ; Bajo Rodriguez, a * The largest islets will be especially mentioned in the sequel. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 137 little without the line of Puntas Algarrobo and Guanajibo, and about half way between them : it is a rocky shoal, dry in several spots, and always showing itself, stretching nearly north and south, about half a mile long, and not much less at its broadest part : there is a passage through the midst of it, about north-east by east, with least depth of 12 feet ; a great reef stretches out from the northernmost point of the port of Cabo Rojo, and, doubling Cayo Fonduco, ends at Punta de Veras; Bajo del Negro, a very small reef, with the sea constantly breaking on it, about three and one-half miles from the nearest coast, and lying west-south-west (one-half west) from Pnnta de Guanajibo, and south three-fourths east from Punta Giguera ; Bajo del Negrillo, near the former, and smaller ; Bajo Figueroa ; and Bajo del Algarrobo, which is nearly bare and bold to the south-west, and on which it has been in- tended to erect a light. Among those on the south coast are — a shoal two or three miles in length, and three or four miles from the coast, and containing the roadstead of Guayama ; a reef near the entrance of the bay of Ponce ; there are also several reefs and shoals about the mouth of the port of Guanica, and in other parts of this coast. The number of shoals immediately bordering the coasts of the island is a natural consequence of the many rivers that empty into the sea in all directions. Channels. — These, with the exception of the passages between the immediate islets, keys, etc., are few in number, the principal one being Virgin's passage, between Vieques and the islets of Culebras and St. Thomas, in which are soundings with 20 fathoms on the west side, but on approaching any one of the islets it is shoaler. The currents set through this channel strong to the westward. Mountains, Valleys, and Savannas.— A range called the Sierra de Luquillo, rising in some places 3,700 feet above the sea, commences at Cabeza de San Juan, and with frequent and extensive gaps ends at the Silla de Caballo, south of Arecibo. Its highest point, called El Yunqne (anvil), near the eastern coast, is visible at a distance of 70 miles. Another range, called the Sierra de Cayey in its eastern part, distinct from the former, and almost continuous, traverses the island from east to west southward of the centre : it commences near Yabucoa on the east, and after various convolutions forks out near St. German into various branches extending to the coast on the west and south-west. The highest points of this ridge are — La Atalaya (watch-tower)* in Ahasco, Cerro Montuoso in May agues, Tetas de Cerro Gordo in San German, and El Torito in Cayey : it appears as a regular vertebra, and, * This is an important guiding point to navigators, being seen along the whole of the west coast. It is the highest of the two peaks on the highest part of the range near that coast, and stands south-east by east from Point San Francisco. 138 Porto Rico : like the Sierra de Luquillo, throws out numerous lateral branches which extend to the north and south coasts, and inclose many fertile valleys and savannas, some of which, when viewed from the heights, afford a most charming prospect. The mountains are thickly wooded, and the source of a multitude of streams. Rivers.— The number of streams watering the island is exceedingly great, rendering irrigation unnecessary except on the south side, where drought is most prevalent. Besides upward of 1,200 brooks— the ma- jority permanent and suitable to the purposes of life— and numerous smaller streams, there are 51 rivers emptying into the sea. Several of them are navigable by small craft for some six miles from their mouths, such as the Loiza, Toa, Bayamon, Manati, Arecibo, and Anasco. The greatest are— the Rio Grande de Loiza, which rises in Cerro Gordo, south of the town of Hato-Grande : flows northward, winding to the east and west, traverses the districts of Caguas, Gurabo, Trujillo-Alto, and Trujillo-Bajo, and, after receiving various rivers and a great num- ber of brooks in its course, empties into the sea near Loiza ; the Rio de Anasco, which rises on the north of Sierra de Cain, in San German, runs north-west and west, and, enlarged by many tributaries, empties into the sea at Anasco-; and the Rio de la Plata, which rises in Cerro Pelado in Cayey, runs north, with many convolutions, to the east, south, and west, takes the names of Caribe, Grande, Vegas, Cayey, and La Plata near Aibonito, traverses the districts of Cayey, Aibonito, Cidra, Sabana del Palmar, Naranjito, Toa-Alta, Toa-Baja, and Dorado, and, after having received, like the others, a large number of rivers and brooks in its course, disembogues in the sea with the name of Toa, at Boca- Habana, on the north of Toa-Baja. Water-Falls. — There are few in the island, and none deserving of especial notice. Lagoons*— There are several lagoons bordering the coasts, the prin- cipal ones being — Laguna de Penones, east of St. John's, and formed by the sea ; Laguna de Tortuguero, north-north-east of the town of Manati ; Lago Joyuda, south-south-west of Mayagiies ; Laguna de Guanica, north-north-west of the port of Guanica : it is extensive, and abounds in ducks and fish. Swamps. — Cienaga Salitrales, in the south-western extremity ; Cien- aga del Flamenco, east of Guanica ; and Cienaga de Augustin, east of Humacao, are the most extensive. Salt Ponds.— The principal ones are— Salinas de Palo-Seco, also called de la Sierra de Penones, near the Morrillos de Cabo Rojo, on the south- west coast ; and Salinas de Coamo, toward the centre of the south coast. There is besides a bed of fossil- salt at Isabela, on the north coast. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 139 Harbors, Bays, Roadsteads, etc. — The chief ones on the north coast, which is not much indented, are — the spacious and well-sheltered har- bor of St. John's, the roadstead of Arecibo, the anchorage of Palmas- Altas, and the small bays of Toa, Cangrejos, and Boca-Vieja. On the east — Ensenada-Honda (a fine harbor), the port of Fajardo, and the bays of Naguabo, Humacao, and Ensenada de Majagua. On the south — the first-rate harbor of Guanica, the good ones of Salinas de Coamo and Jobos, the bays of Guayanilla, Ponce, and Puerto Aguirre, and the roadsteads of Guayama and Patillas. On the west — the bays of Agua- dilla, Bincon, Anasco, Mayagiies, and Boqueron ; and Puerto JReal de Cabo Rojo, an excellent harbor. Those of Guanica and Ensenada-Honda ore the finest harbors in the island. There are, besides, numerous creeks, coves, and small estuaries. Currents. — The currents set from east to west, as usual in the tropics, although under certain positions of the moon they are reversed ; but , this point has not been well determined. Their mean velocity is about half a mile an hour. Climate* — The climate is warm and moist, but salubrious, except in low and marshy places. The extremes of temperature on the plains are about 62° and 95° Fahrenheit, but it must be several degrees cooler on the highlands, especially the mountainous regions north and east. The atmosphere is very humid, but least so on the south side. No hy-" grometric nor rain-gauge observations are recorded.. The wind generally blows from the east and north-north-east, except from November to March, when northers prevail, though seldom with great violence ; and during the wet season it often blows from the south-east. The land breeze is light and fitful. Whirlwinds sometimes occur during the dry season, but seldom strong enough to occasion much damage. The period wherein a hurricane may be looked for extends from July to October (the great one of Santa Ana occurred the 26th of July, 1826, and the almanac, though usually fallacious in this respect, predicts one the 10th of October of the present year, 1855). These fearful visita- tions appear to be much less frequent than in former times, when a vio- lent gale was almost of annual occurrence ; the losses (and there was little to lose in those days) sometimes exceeding $500,000, besides 7,000 houses demolished or seriously damaged, numberless cattle and poultry destroyed, cultivated fields entirely denuded, large portions of forest up- rooted, and upward of 1,500 persons killed or wounded. Since 1837 (August 2d) , when upward of thirty large vessels were wrecked in the close harbor of St. John's, and proportionate damage done throughout the north coast, both on sea and land, hurricanes have been unfrequent and light. They are especially afflictive to the peasantry, whose " staff 140 Porto Rico: of life" is the plantain tree, so readily prostrated by the gale. The wind on such occasions seems to blow from nearly every quarter at the same time, and comes in gusts or waves, but its maximum intensity for- tunately lasts little more than an hour. Hurricanes are often imme- diately succeeded by slight shocks of earthquake. Dew falls very co- piously throughout the year, especially on clear nights, which are the most numerous. Fogs are rare. The year may be divided into two sea- sons—the wet and the dry, or summer and winter— the first never so op- pressive as in more northerly countries, and the last somewhat similar to the autumn of the south of Europe. The rainy season usually lasts from July to January, with occasional dry spells of several weeks. Some years the rain pours down in torrents for several hours on many succes- sive days, and streams that were insignificant before become raging tor- rents, overflowing the land, and carrying every thing before them. A flood in 185 1 was preceded by three days of continuous rain. Almost every part of the island suffered from it ; a number of lives were lost, thou- sands of cattle destroyed, bridges and houses swept away, and entire cane-fields swept bare. The south side is subject to drought, and is the only part of the island where irrigation is used. The loftiest mountain peaks are said to be sometimes capped with snow. Hail-storms are unfre- quent. About the breaking up of the dry season violent thunder-storms occur, and silent lightning is frequent during the evenings of June, July, and August. Meteors are often seen, and the aurora borealis is sometimes visible. The sea about the coasts, as usual in the tropics, is highly phosphorescent, especially in summer, and long luminous belts (cestus veneris) are occasionally observed in the harbors and bays. Slight shocks of earthquake, or rather earth-tremor, being entirely su- perficial, and apparently caused by a sudden electric discharge from the earth, often accompany the first rain after long drought. Diseases.— The most prevalent during the dry season are— common catarrhal affections, epidemic influenza, under a new form every season, whooping-cough, attacking even adults, light and intermittent fevers,' and rheumatism. Consumption also has its victims. During the months of hot and rainy weather— hepatic affections, intermittent, bilious, typhus, and brain fevers, derangement of the digestive organs, small- pox, and erysipelas. Yellow fever visits the island only at intervals of several years, and soon subsides, rarely attacking any but the unaccli- mated. Although Asiatic cholera has raged so fiercely in nearly all the West India islands, including St. Thomas, which is so near to Porto Rico, the latter is yet a stranger to the disease. Among chronic diseases are- dropsy, hydrocele (very common), and gravel, and the great and per- manent swelling of one or both legs, known to the faculty as elephant- Physical, Political, and Industrial. 141 iasis, or Barbadoes-leg, is frequently encountered, especially among colored people. A few cases of goitre exist, but no scrofula, although leprous affections are sometimes met with. There are several complaints peculiar to the negroes— one proceeds from eating earth, and another is called yaws. It is somewhat remarkable that ophthalmia does not pre- vail at St. John's, where all the buildings are whitewashed outside, and reflect the sunlight most dazzlingly. Instances of great longevity are numerous in the island, especially in the interior, and several might be enumerated where the "span of life" has extended over one and a quarter centuries. Generally speaking, the women seem to live longer than the men. Animals. —Quadrupeds.— The variety is small, and the only indigenous one is the jutia, seldom met with. Horned cattle, horses, and swine are extensively raised. Oxen are generally lean, but the beef of those ex- ported is excellent, although that consumed in the island, being badly slaughtered, and usually of old and hard- worked subjects, is tough and dry. They are still much used in the sugar-cane mills, and almost ex- clusively for drawing carts. Their price ranges from $20 to $40, those trained to draught commanding the highest rate. They are invariably yoked by the forehead. Cows afford very good milk, yet the butter and cheese is poor (doubtless from improper manipulation), and far from sufficient to the consumption. Veal is rarely eaten. The horses are of the Andalusian breed (originally Arabian). They are generally small, but finely formed, mettlesome, and swift, and remarkable for the am- bling gait called paso, so agreeable to the rider, while rapid. Those used by the peasantry in their journeys are undersized, lean, and rough, but exceedingly endurant of fatigue, and independent of grooming : $1,000 is sometimes paid for a racer, but very good traveling horses may be had for $150 to $300, and baggage carriers at from $30 to $60. Private carriages are usually drawn by American horses, imported ex- pressly at a cost of $200 to $400 (duty paid), or purchased of an occa- sional circus company. Asses and mules are not much used, and conse- quently scarce. Hogs in the rural districts feed chiefly on the berry of the royal palm. The pork is lean but well flavored, and generally con- sumed in the fresh state, no hams nor bacon being prepared from it. Wild hogs are met with in the district of Naguabo. Sheep and goats are few, the flesh of neither being much used. "As happens throughout the tropics, the wool of the first is substituted by short coarse hair, like that of the second. Camels and deer have been introduced, but have not multiplied. There are rabbits and guinea pigs, or cavies. Hydro- phobia being almost unknown, dogs are allowed to multiply greatly, and there are numerous varieties, among which the chino, small, short-leg- 142 Porto Rico: ged, and generally black, is remarkable for being entirely devoid of hair. Cats, rats, and mice are, almost of course, very abundant. Some of the first have run wild in the woods. Bats also are common. Birds.— Besides those usually classed as poultry, there are tame and wild pigeons, parrots of various size and color, turtle doves, a species of partridge, canaries, linnets, nightingales, cardinals, robins, woodpeck- ers, humming-birds, tomeguines, scarce three inches long, swallows, owls, widgeons, wild ducks, pelicans, sea-gulls, flamingoes, king-fishers, cocos, snipe, and many other. Beptiees.— These are few. There are no alligators, and the largest lizard is only about a foot and a half in length. The snakes are not venomous, and rarely exceed five feet in length. Small frogs and toads are common. Fish— Abound in many of the rivers, and about the coasts and har- bors. Among the best are the liza, or mullet, pargo, carite, viajaca, dajao, mojarra, king-fish, calamary, red-mullet, etc. Sharks are com- mon about the coasts, and the manati or sea-cow is frequently met with. Whales, porpoises, dolphins, etc., are often seen, and even seals sometimes visit the north coast. There are several kinds of shell-fish, including lobsters, shrimps, crabs, clams, and oysters (small, but savory, and usu- ally growing on the submerged stems of the mangrove bushes). Land- crabs {cangrejos) are numerous, and, together with the rats, do great dam- age to the sugar-cane. There are also sea-urchins , starfish, polypi, beau- tiful anemones, conches and shells in great variety, sponges, corals, etc. Insects— As in all warm and humid climates— are abundant. Those best known are— two kinds of fire-flies, bees, yielding excellent honey, wasps, butterflies of many kinds, cockroaches, grasshoppers, a species of locust, mosquitoes, sand-flies, and many other kinds of flies ; weevils, moths, and several species of worms destructive to grain, vegetable leaves, and paper ; scorpions, centipedes (both causing inflammation and fever by their sting) ; gongolis or millepedes, spiders, among which the large and hairy guabd, also called tarantula, is often fatal to cattle. Ants are very numerous, and the comejen will destroy the timbers of a house, leaving nothing but a thin outer shell. They are destroyed with difficulty, and only by repeatedly putting arsenic in their nests. Chigoes (a species of flea) are a great torment to the unshod, penetrating under the skin of the feet, and often rendering the negroes (especially children) quite lame. Fleas, lice, and bugs are plenty. There is also in the fields a diminutive, bright red insect called abuse, which attaches itself to the skin. Vegetables.— The island is singularly rich in vegetable productions, and affords an exceedingly extensive and interesting (the more because Physical, Political, and Industrial. 143 little explored) field for the botanist. The variety of hard wood most suitable for building and for cabinet work is very great. For the latter purpose there are none more beautiful in any part of the world Dyes and medicinal plants of most valuable properties abound, and the num- ber of distinct fruits, growing spontaneously, is truly surprising. We do not attempt to enumerate anymore than those most generally known in the island, and of the majority of these only the native nomenclature can be given. Among precious woods are the aceitillo or satin- wood, mahoo-any, ebony of several kinds, collor, walnut, palo-vacas, algarrobo or locust, veined, common, and red ; odorous cedar, box, laurel de llamas, guasima (very medicinal), sabina or savin, moca, and many others. Besides these, the best for building-some for solidity, others for flexi- bility and others again for both qualities— are the guayacan or lignum- vitse 'which also affords the valuable gum-guaiac; white and black capa', cojoba,roble or oak, maricao, ortegon, ucar; yellow, black, and red maga; tortugo, ausubo, higuerillo, guaraguao, espejuelo, zapote, jagua, granadillo, pendola, quiebra-hacha (axe-breaker), the lofty seiba etc There is also the fountain-tree, with a stream of pure water running through its tubes. The chief dyes are Brazil-wood, tumeric, indigo, annatto, guatapana, granadillo, mora, fustic, aroma, maricao, and dividivi, all of which grow wild. For tanning, the bark of the man- grove is excellent. Among resinous plants are that which produces the copaiba balsam, two kinds of tabanuco, which is very aromatic. and me- dicinal, and its fruit affording good food for hogs ; the male mamey, used in cutaneous diseases ; copey, guaiac, copal, algarrobo, and the pajml or cashew * Other medicinal plants comprise liquorice, tea, sage, stinking- weed, balsamillo, cojitre, tibey, guaco (so famous in South America as an antidote to the poison of serpents), vervain, cepi, higuillo, sacabuche, corazon, cow-itch, parietaria, senna, nigua, zarzabacoa, chicory (very abundant) , curia or garden balsam, violeta, cana-fistola or cassia-'lignea, llanten (plantago), tamarind, mallows, malagueta or pimento, panic or couch-grass, green-pepper, mint, purslain, chamomile, mastich, rosemary, sano-uinaria or knot-grass, etc. Besides these there are numerous pois- onous plants, such as the seed of the poma-rosa and of the sand-box tree, the manzanilla or manchineel-apple, the yuca when not cooked, and many others. The cinnamon tree and a species of nutmeg also grow in the island. There are several kinds of palms, including the collor, e^- * The nut of which (very palatable when roasted), growing attached to the pear- shaped, juicy and astringent, but refreshing fruit, contains a resinous oil winch, on application for the removal of ringworm in a certain instance, is said to have pro- duced an extraordinary growth of hair on the place rubbed with it. 144 Porto Rico: otic date, cocoa-nut, and royal palm,* which last is doubtless the most valuable tree in the island, from the variety of its uses ; also the beau- tiful and most useful bamboo, the wild cane, various kinds of calabash, medicinal, and affording gourds of all shapes and sizes, from a capacity of seven or eight gallons to a quarter of a pint, serving the country people for barrels, tubs, cups and saucers, spoons, etc. ; and the guano, which affords a most excellent substitute for feathers in stuffing pillows and beds. Among fruit trees are the almond, aguacate or alligator- pear, also called vegetable marrow, bread-fruit, a species of chestnut, excellent pine-apples of two kinds, and oranges of three kinds, nispero or mess-apple, papaw and mango ; five kinds of plantain and banana, constituting the chief food of the country people ; guava of several kinds, cocoa-nuts, anon, corazon, two kinds of caimito, citron, shaddock, au- subo, several kinds of plums, two of gooseberries, dates (rare), algar- robo, cunde-amor, guanabana or sour-sop, guama, granadilla, pome- granate, hicaco, fig, cashew, jobo, jacana, jagua, jobo de la India; five kinds of limes and lemons, mamey, zapote, several kinds of melons, multas or guava-berries, pita-haya (a cactus), pepino-angolo (medici- nal), parcha or bell-apple, poma-rosa, tamarind, two kinds of grape, peanuts, etc. Strawberries have been raised in some of the mountain- ous districts; and on the estancia of Vives, near Ponce, are several apple trees producing good fruit. Many other exotic fruits might be raised, but this branch of cultivation is not attended to. Among escu- lent roots and other alimenticious plants are the yuca, which affords the excellent manioc bread or casabe (though the fresh juice is a deadly poison), and fine starch; arrow-root, several kinds of yams, potatoes, sweet potatoes, yautias, apio or celery, ginger, radishes, beets, turnips, carrots, leren, gunda, egg-plant, tayon, tayote, gumbo or ocra, cabbage, lettuce, asparagus, beans and peas of various kinds (some peculiar to the island), green-peas, tomatoes, sweet and pungent pepper, pumpkin, squash, etc. Eice 'and maize are produced abundantly, and cocoa is also raised in small quantities. Sugar, coffee, and tobacco are the chief productions of the island. Cotton grows finely, but of late years is little cultivated. There is a great variety of fibrous plants suitable for making paper, and the plantain-stalk affords a material equal to flax. Minerals. — This branch has been very little investigated, but the * The palm-tree is said by Kay to " supply the Indians with whatever they stand in need of— bread, water, wine, vinegar, brandy, milk, oil, honey, sugar, needles, clothes, thread, cups, spoons, basins, baskets, paper, masts for ships, sails, cordage, nails, all the material for their houses, etc." This variety of uses, however, is much reduced, and in part almost forgotten in civilized countries. The price of a standing palm-tree in Porto Eico is $4. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 145 island certainly contains its full share of metallic and combustible sub- stances, and other valuable minerals. Gold has been found in the Luquillo Mountain, although a mining company, formed within the last two or three years, has failed of encouragement and relinquished the undertaking. The sands of the Luquillo River, and at the head of the May agues River, are auriferous. Particles of iron and steel are found in the vicinity of the rivers in Loiza ; pyrites and marquesites in the mountains of Anasco ; traces of iron, bismuth, etc., in the hills near the town of Mayagiies ; a bed of coal in Manati, on the lands of Mr. Kort- right, not worked. There are quarries of white stone in the districts of Ponce and Juana Diaz ; of grindstone, in La Moca ; of schistose and other good building stone in Cabo Rojo and Mayagiies ; of marble in Caguas, and masses of rock-crystal in the mountain of Mala-pascua. The principal salt-pits are — that of the Sierra de Penones, in Cabo Rojo, very productive ; the lagoon of Salinas de Coamo ; and one in Isabela, containing fossil salt. There are thermal and sulphurous springs in the district of Coamo, resorted to by invalids ; at Ponce, where the waters have lately begun to be used with benefit ; at Hato-Grande ; and the Guatemala River, in Pepino, is of thermal temperature. 7 146 Porto Rico : POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY.* Population — According to the last census (in 1846) the number of inhabitants in the island was 447,914, of which 220,045 were whites (112,840 males and 107,205 females), and not more than ten per cent, of the whole were slaves. The following statement shows the steady increase during the- last ninety years . 1765..44,8S3 1T87.. 98,ST7 1794. .127.133 1801. .158,051 1824. .261,268 1778.. 66,000 1788.. 101,398 1795. .129,758 1802. .162,192 1827. .287,673 1782. .81,120 1789.-103,051 1796. .182,982 1803. .174.902 1829. .321,661 1783.. 87,994 1790.. 106,679 1797. .138,753 1812.. 183,014 1S30. .330,051 1784. .91,845 " 1791. .112,712 1798. .144,525 1815. .220,892 1834. .358,836 1785.. 93,300 1792. .115,557 1799.. 153,230 1817.. 221,772 1846. .447,914 1786.. 96,233 1798.. 120,022 1800.. 155,426 1820. .280,622 At the same rate (nearly 2^ per cent, per annum), the present popu- lation should be about 550,000> with a proportion of slaves of probably not more than 9 per cent., as a considerable number become free every * " Previous to 1776 the revenue of the island was chiefly derived from the customs dues on its small trade with Spain (not being allowed to trade with foreign countries), and nearly all the expenses of government were defrayed by the situado, or aid an- nually afforded by Mexico, and amounting to $4,324,498. Great, therefore, was the embarrassment when that supply was cut off by the insurrection, obliging the gov- ernment to resort to extraordinary expedients, and even to make use of the most sacred deposits, without, however, filling the void. The penury of the situation be- coming daily more aggravated, recourse was had to the issue of paper-money, which, although it temporarily relieved the necessities, soon banished both confidence and coin to such a degree that it fell to 10 per cent, of its original value, compelling the prohibition of its circulation, and the institution of measures to withdraw it. It was then considered advisable to separate the treasury department from the general gov- ernment : to establish custom-houses at St. John's, Aguadilla, Mayagues, Cabo Eojo, Ponce, and Fajardo; and to organize a Tribunal of Commerce and an Economical Society, all in virtue of a Eoyal order of 28th November, 1811, from which period dates the existence of the Superintendency of the island, although all its attributions were only completed by Eoyal order of 28th July, 1846. These measures might not have failed of early and materially favorable results if the pecuniary embarrassment had merely arisen from want of protection to commerce and agriculture ; but the evil had other roots. The enormous deficiency of the .situado could not be covered in a short time, especially in the chaotic state of the administration, and with the smuggling that prevailed with the connivance of those whose duty it was to prevent it. Alihough many of the abuses were soon suppressed, such was the magnitude of the rsst that no considerable improvement could be experienced for some time. In 1825 greater vigor was infused into the measures of the administration, who appointed officers termed celadores, men of known probity, whose duty it was to supervise the management of the respective custom-houses, subjecting them to certain regulations, and requiring greater method and perspicuity in thwir accounts. The greatest vigilance was also Physical, Political, and Industrial. 147 year, either by paying for themselves with money accumulated from the produce of the patches of ground they are allowed to cultivate on holi- days for their own benefit, or by being paid for (as many are) by their free relatives, who retain no legal claim on them. In neither case can the owner refuse manumission, or demand more than cost price, or such as may be adjudged by the Sindico, and usually ranging from $25 for an infant just born, to $300 and $500 for adults. Premising that the population at present is 550,000, the proportion per geographical square league is nearly 1,827 (152 per square statute mile), While in Cuba it is but 254 ; in Jamaica less than 1 ,000, and in Hayti about 382, sup- posing a population of 936,000. Were the Island of Cuba as densely peopled, it would contain 6£ millions of inhabitants. The proportion between slaves and freemen is no less satisfactory. According to the census of 1834, of the 358,836 inhabitants of Porto Rico, 54 per cent, were whites, 35 per cent, free colored, and 11 per cent, slaves. At the same period, according to Humboldt, the proportion per cent, in the other slave-holding countries was as follows : Cuba. Jamaica. Brit. W. I. United States. Brazil. White 46 6 9 81 23 ' ' Free colored 18 9 10 3 /b Slaves 36 85 SI 16 51 exercised against smuggling, and ere long the revenue was doubled. In the statistical returns of 1816 the production of the island was set down as $2,057,932, on a capital of $14 546 911. In 1820 the production had increased to $3,060,040; in 1827 to $3 509 663- in 1833 to $6,702,012; and in 1844 to $3,935,794, although in 1824 it was only $2 582,337. Previous to the Eoyal decree of 10th August, 1815 (exempting the inhabitants of the island from assessments and tithes for 15 years), the exportation (in 1813) amounted to $339,940, while in ISIS and 1819 it rose to $980,692 and $1,098,033 re«peciivelv. The prosperity of the island is almost entirely due to the Royal decree above mentioned. Thereby were permitted— the importation of slaves from the neigh- boring colonies ; and the immigration of foreigners with capita! and slaves, such colonials bein- accorded all the privileges of Spaniards after a residence of five years ; the exemption, as before stated, from assessments and tithes for 15 years, although an inland tax was imposed to defray the expenses of government; direct trade with the Ponin-ula free of duty, three per cent, being levied on the entry and clearance of shipments, by Spaniards, in Spanish bottoms, to foreign countries in Europe, the goods being transferable from one vessel to another free of further duty; the importation of slaves by Spaniards free of duty, and by foreigners under a duty of three per cent, ad valorem: and of agricultural implements, gold, silver, and ships on the same terms whence-ever proceeding; the direct trade by foreigners with the United States and Europe for one year, and with the neighboring colonies for six months, under a duty of 15 p*r cent, on manufactured goods, 10 per cent, on provisions generally, $1 per ton as tonnage duty on United States vessels, and 4 rials on those of other nations, and 5 per cent, on the value of domestic produce exported. These were the chief bases ot the progress of the island, although they suffered many restrictions, and some of the measures were not properly carried out "-(Gaelic's Descriptive Map, Madrid, I80I.) 148 Porto Rico : These statements prove how unjustly some writers have exclaimed against the numerous slavery of the Spanish Antilles, and that this fer- tile and well-situated island not only ranks among the most populous countries, but that slavery therein is gradually becoming extinct. The number of foreign settlers (except those from Spain and South America, who are proportionately few) in the island is very small. French emi- grants, chiefly from Hayti, and holding several of the coffee plantations, are probably the most numerous ; next, Italians and Corsicans, several of whom are sugar planters, a few Germans employed in commerce, and Danes (from the neighboring islands), the majority of whom arc man- agers of sugar estates. There are also a few Dutch and English, but of Americans there are probably not twenty in the whole island. A large number of the so-called white population are, in reality, colored — prob- ably one half. The Jibaro, or native of the rural districts, is supposed to be, generally speaking, of Indian descent ; but of the pure aboriginal breed, said to have numbered 600,000 at the discovery, we do not believe that one remains. Religion* — As in all Spanish countries, the Eoman Catholic and Apos- tolic is the only form of worship tolerated, and it must be professed by all foreigners previous to domiciliation or marriage, or proofs given of such profession, in order to obtain burial in consecrated ground. Administrative Division. — The island is governed by a captain-gen- eral appointed by the Crown, and who presides over the Real Audiencia or court of judicature, and all the tribunals except those of Commerce and Exchequer. No important measures, however, are carried into effect without the approval of the Crown. The Real Audiencia is com- posed of a president (the Captain-General), a regent, four judges, an at- torney-general, and a recorder, and tries all suits and administrative affairs under appeal, criminal causes in all cases, and exercises author- ity in various other matters* referred to it by the laws. The adminis- trative division of the territory comprises eight districts, and sixty-seven townships, viz. : the district of San Juan % (the capital), comprising the townships of Luquillo, Rio-grande, Loiza, Trujillo-alto, Trujillo-bajo, Cangrejos, Rio-piedras, Guainabo, Bayamon, Toa-alta, Toa-baja, Naran- jito, Corozal, Vega-alta, Vega-baja, and Dorado; Arecibo — Hatillo, Ca- muy, Quebradillas, Utuado, Manati, Ciales, and Morovis; Aguarfilla— Aguada, Rincon, Moca, Pepino, Lares, and Isabela ; May agues — Aiiasco ; San German — Cabo Rojo and Sabana-grande ; Ponce — Juana Diaz, Santa Isabel de Coamo, Villa de Coamo, Aibonito, Barranquitas, Barros, Penuelas, Adjuntas, Guayanilla, and Yauco; Caguas — Gurabo, Juncos, Hato-Grande, Aguas-buenas, Sabana del Palmar, Cidra, Cayey, Gua- yama, and Salinas ; and Humacao, with the townships of Fajardo, Ceiba,. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 149 Naguabo, Piedras, Yabucoa, Maunabo, and Patillas. A chief justice, residing in each of the eight districts, decides, without appeal (aided by- two hombres buenos), in all suits not exceeding $100, and takes imme- diate cognizance of all other causes not subject to the special tribunals of the general government, church, war, navy, artillery, engineers, ex- chequer, commerce, and estate of deceased persons. An alcalde in each town, at the head of the ayuntamiento or corporation, acting as justice of the peace, deciding without appeal all lawsuits under $50, in which cases he consults the opinion of the hombres buenos (sponsors of the par- ties), issuing writs, apprehending delinquents, and exercising generally the authority delegated to him in judicial matters by the chief justice of the district. There are also sub-alcaldes for the different wards, and the sergeant-majors of the country militia exercise authority in certain petty matters. Exchequer. — This branch is conducted by an intendant of the army, and general delegated superintendent, and four offices established at the capital, viz. : the chief accountant's office and tribunal of accounts, the liquidating office, the chief treasury of the army, and chief adminis- tration of internal revenue, for the accountantship of land-taxes. The revenue is collected by seven custom-houses of the first class, five of the second, and nine of the third, making monthly remittances to the chief treasury, and fifteen receptories, whose collections are likewise remitted every month to the treasury, through the administration of internal rev- enue, to which they are subject. The custom-houses of the first class are those of St. John's, Mayagiies, Ponce, Guayama, Aguadilla, Nagu- abo, and Arecibo, and are authorized for all export and import trade, and to issue permits or dockets for all goods transmitted to the other au- thorized places in the island. Of the second class are those of Cabo Rojo, Fajardo, Humacao, Guayanilla, and Salinas de Coamo, authorized for the exportation of the produce of the island, the admission of goods from the first-class custom-houses in coasting vessels of the island, the issue of permits for such goods to the other authorized ports, and the im- portation of provisions and lumber from the United States. Of the third class are those of Manati, Luquillo. Aiiasco, Penuelas, Guanica, Santa Isabel de Coamo, Patillas, Jobos, and Isabela, authorized for the admis- sion of goods docketed by the first and second-class custom-houses, and to clear domestic goods to all parts of the island. Each of the principal custom-houses is administered by a collector, an accountant, a treasurer, a chief of the tide-waiters, an inspector, and a weigher. There are two receptories at St. John's, and one in each of the following towns : May- agiies, Ponce, Guayama, Aguadilla, San German, Arecibo, Manati, Anasco, Cabo Eojo, Caguas, Humacao, Guayanilla, and Juana Diaz. 150 Porto Rico: One of those at St. John's is for the collection of the estate of regu- lars, rent of crown lands, fines, and for the indemnification of stamp- paper. The rest are for the sale of stamp-paper, papal hulls, tickets in the government lottery,, and for the collection of subsidies and land- taxes. Church* — There is a bishop nominated by the Crown, confirmed by the Pope, and suffragan of the archbishop of Cuba ; a chapter composed of a dean, an archdeacon, and a precentor, four canons, and two distribu- tors of rations ; six vicars corresponding to St. John's, San German, Arecibo, Coamo, Aguada, and May agues, and a curate for each town in the island. Army. — The territory of the island is divided into eight commandan- cies or military departments, whose chiefs have charge of the armed forces. The latter consist of three Peninsular regiments of 900 men each, a brigade of artillery, six battalions of disciplined militia infantry, and a regiment of militia cavalry, composed of three squadrons. The superior officers are — the captain-general, director-general of militia (infantry and cavalry), sub-inspector of the royal corps of artillery and engineers, and the second general in command, sub-director of the Pen- insular corps. ' Navy. — The coast is divided into six districts or adjutancies — St. John's, Aguadilla, Mayagues, Ponce, Guayama, and Naguabo, under a commander-in-chief, who resides at St. John's, and is subject to the com- mandant-general of the station at Havana, in Cuba. The force consists of a coast-guard schooner, at the orders of the captain-general and the superintendent, and the arsenal contains 18 gun-boats and 4 auxiliary boats, to be manned when necessary by the artillerymen and marines of the establishment. The district of St. John's extends 61 miles on the north from the mouth of the Camuy River, exclusive, which lies west of the port, to the Mameyes River on the east, and comprises the sub-dele- gations of Manati and Arecibo on the west, and Loiza on the east. That of Aguadilla extends 36 miles from the mouth of the Camuy River on the north coast, to the Cano de Barrero on the west coast, and com- prises the sub-delegation of Isabela on the north. That of Mayagues extends 44 miles from the Cano de Barrero to Punta Jaboncillos, wind- ward* of the port of Guanica on the south coast, and comprises the sub- delegations of Cabo Rojo and San German de Lajas on the west. That of Ponce extends 38 miles on the south coast from Punta Jaboncillos to Punta Salitral de Aguirre, and comprises the sub-delegations of Gua- * Windward means eastward, whence the wind usually blows, and leeward means westward. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 151 yanilla and Salinas de Coaino. That of Guayama extends 25 J miles on the south coast from Punta Salitral de Aguirre to Cabo de Mala-pascua, and comprises the sub-delegation of Patillas. • That of Naguabo extends 42s miles along the east coast, from Cabo de Mala-pascua to the mouth of the Mameyes River on the north, and comprises the sub-delegations of Yabucoa, Humacao, and Fajardo, and Cayo Santiago, Vieques, Culebras, and other islets and keys windward of Fajardo. Laws. — The island, like that of Cuba, is subject to special laws, pend- ing the formation of which are in force the laws, royal decrees, regula- tions, and orders dictated by the Supreme Goyernment, and communi- cated to the island. Next in order are the local regulations instituted by the Governor, the Audiencia, and the respective corporations of the towns. Then follow the Ordenanzas de Intendentes de Nueva Espana, which especially regard the exchequer. Next the Recopilacion de leyes de Indias ; and finally, the following codes : Novisima Recopilacion, con- sisting of the occasional Royal edicts ; Nueva Recopilacion ; Leyes de Toro ; Ordenamiento de Alcala ; Fuero Juzgo, which is chiefly an abridgment of the Theodosian Code originally promulgated by Alacie, who succeeded Euric, one of the Gothic conquerors of Spain ; with the addition, from time to time, of numerous other laws ; and the Leyes de las Siete Partidas, mostly formed of Roman, Gothic, and Canon laws. The military, naval, and commercial branches are especially legislated by the Ordenanzas del ejercito, Ordenanzas generales de Marina y Ma- triculas, and the Codigo de Comercio. Education. — This branch was greatly neglected until 1837, many of the towns being without even a primary school ; but since the institu- tion of the Provincial Committee on primary instruction in that year (incorporated in 1851 in the Royal Academy of Belles-lettres) much progress has been made. There is at present a public school in every town, besides private ones in those of the first and second class. The city of St. John's contains six public and four private schools— four of the first for girls and two for boys, and of the last, two for each sex — besides a seminary, founded in 1831, with three professorships proper to the institution, and those of the French and English languages, mathe- matics, and design, which are supported by the Sociedad Economica de Amigos del Pais. According to the statement published by the Acad- emy in 1852, the schools of the island were attended by 2,981 scholars. A large number of the boys are sent to Europe or the United States for education. The young Creoles are exceedingly apt scholars, and very few attain manhood without a knowledge of reading, writing, and arith- metic, as, unfortunately, despising mechanical pursuits, their great aim is to qualify themselves for clerkship. The education of the females 152 Porto Rico: has, until recently, been much less attended to, and many can not write (very few can do so correctly), although their musical abilities, which are very good, may be cultivated ; at present, however, a knowledge of let- ters is becoming gradually diffused among them, and, like their broth- ers, they learn readily. They are in general excellent and industri- ous needlewomen. At St. John's there is a circulating library (the only one in the island) and two semi-weekly papers are published — the " Ga- ceta de Gobierno" and the " Boletin." The " Semanario" is issued at Mayagues, and the " Ponceno" at Ponce — both semi-weeklies. Character and Customs. — The Porto Riqueneans, like the inhabitants of all warm countries, are generally indolent, owing both to the ener- vating character of the climate, and the bountiful provisions of nature against their necessary wants ; but they are temperate, honest at heart though thriftless, courteous, hospitable, and devout, especially in the rural districts. The poor (?) tenant of a hut built entirely of the palm- tree, and bound together with the strong and pliable bejuco, whose only habiliments are a check shirt, osnaburgs pantaloons, straw hat, and an innocent machete strapped to his waist ; who spends most of the time in his hammock smoking and playing on the tiple (a small guitar), doing nothing, or sleeping ; divested of care for the future by the pres- ent' possession of a few coffee and plaintain trees, a cow, and the indis- ' pensable horse, and anticipating the pleasures of the next holiday's cock-fight or dance, will extend the most cordial and polite welcome to the benighted traveler, set before him the best of his plantains, milk, and cheese ; relinquish to him his rustic bed ; unsaddle and feed his horse, which at break of day he will have in readiness, and dismiss his guest with a " vaya usted con Dios," refusing with a gesture of pride or offended delicacy all proffer of payment. Such is the Jibaro of the in- terior. Proximity to the coast, and therefore to civilization, renders him interested, salutationless because not answered on first occasions, and deceitful in ratio of the increase of his wants. Dancing, cock-fight- ing, and the card game of monte are the favorite amusements of the men. The women are passionately fond of dancing, which they learn almost instinctively, and are great church-goers. They are small, graceful, and pretty, and their natural graces are enhanced (in the towns) by the draping mantilla, which used to be worn on all out-of- door occasions, but is at present unfortunately giving way to the bolder and far less becoming European hat, except at church, although there too the innovation has recently been permitted at the instance of some foreign ladies. It is also common to see them at the paseos with none but nature's covering on their heads. The nature of the climate and the want of systematic exercise soon mar the beauty of the women, and, Physical, Political, and Industrial. 153 marriageable at the early age of twelve to fourteen, at thirty-five they rank as old. The Jibaros are sallow, lean, and not very well formed, but wiry and active, and endurant of great fatigue, though consuming very little animal food. St. John's £ay (June 24) used to be celebrated much more gayly than at present, at the capital, by horse-racing through the streets during that and the preceding day, and the greater part of both nights, at ,which time especially the unaccustomed beholder would be struck with astonishment. Hundreds-, perhaps thousands, of horses brought in from the country around, coursing through the streets at full speed ; some with single riders, but the majority bearing a couple— the lady being seated behind and firmly grasping the handle- shaped rims of the banastas ; the shouted jests of both spectators and perform- ers ; the clattering of the thousand hoofs ; the detonation of fire-arms ; the crackle and blaze of the bonfires, over which the most venturesome leap their horses, and clouds of smoke and dust, render it altogether a most singular, wild, and exciting spectacle. The amusement is partaken by all classes, and although complete license prevails and merry jests are rife, the bounds of decency are very rarely trespassed. Accidents occur, of course, but are soon forgotten, and few ladies would be de- terred by having nearly broken their necks the year before. This cus- tom is gradually yielding to- the increasing opposition of the government, the same as the lively masquerades, egg-shell pelting in carnival, and the musical gift-begging parties at new year's, which last is now con- fined to the lower classes, though formerly participated in by the gentry, who in large bands of both sexes would play and sing at the doors of their acquaintance until invited in to refreshment and dancing. The horses are not shod, and instead of the European saddle, which only lately has been adopted among the higher classes, the harness consists of a rodilla or double pad of plantain-stalk, over that an aparejo—a, thick, wide, and broad cushion of straw, surmounted by the banastas — a pair of strong wicker baskets, held together by bands of ox-hide, and strapped tightly around the horse, fitting on each side of the cushion, over which the rider throws his great-coat or blanket, and uses the ba- nastas as saddle-bags. The women ride on them sideways, as on a sad- dle, to which they are preferred by many travelers as being less fatigu- ing. 'The baskets or panniers are sometimes quite large, serving to carry plantains, etc., and the writer has seen a whole family borne by one horse — a man with a child on his lap, one in each basket, and his wife en croupe. The doors of the houses are always open, except at night, and there being no porters, knockers, or bells, the visitor has to announce himself viva voce with an " a Dios gracias" (thanks be to 7# 154 Porto Rico : God), or "Ave Maria" (Hail Mary), which is answered from within— " a Dios sean dadas" (to God be they given), or " sin pecado concebida" (conceived without sin), with the addition of " adelante" (come forward). Of late years, however, the knuckles begin to be found sufficient. The houses are never more than two stories high, and are usually provided with spacious balconies and jalousies, but have no glass window-shutters. Twenty or thirty years ago the furniture of the majority of them was limited to a few hammocks, benches, and ordinary deal tables, but at present many are furnished in the best European style. Matting and oil-cloth begin to be introduced for the houses of the better class, though bare floors are still the rule. The churches being unprovided with pews, the women alternately sit and kneel on the floor, or carpets brought for the occasion by their servants, while the, men stand and kneel. Rich and poor, white and black, free and bond, adore God to- gether, the coarse garment of the field-negro in contact with the silk and broadcloth of his master. The slaves in general are well treated, and allowed many privileges, but none are taught to read or write. Ox-carts are generally used for drayage, except at St. John's, where carts are not allowed in the streets, and heavy burdens are slung on poles which are borne either by mules or on the shoulders of men. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 155 INDUSTRIAL GEOGRAPHY. Manufactures and. Arts. — The chief manufacture is that of muscovado- sugar, the quality of which is not excelled in any part of the world. It is generally of a fine yellow color and strong grain, and is much es- teemed in foreign markets for immediate use, as it does not require to be refined. Cattle-mills, and a few wind-mills, were, until within a few years, the only ones used, hut at present steam-power is employed on many of the estates. A steam sugar-refinery and iron-foundry com- bined was estabHshed at Mayagiies about three years ago by a Liver- pool firm, but in consequence of the failure of the owner, was not sustained long enough to test success, l^m is made, but in small quantity. There is a steam-mill for sawing lumber and grinding maize near Cabo Eojo, and another in the district of Ponce. In the interior they make excellent sweetmeats of guava, orange, etc., casabe or yuca- bread, starch from the same root, arrow-root flour, coarse cotton cloth for hammocks, tiles, bricks, and coarse pottery, shingles, tubs hollowed out of the trunk of the cedar tree, mats, baskets, straw hats, tallow candles, soft soap, and cocoa-nut oil. In several of the towns there are, besides shoemakers and other trades, manufactories of chocolate, friction-matches, cigars, tortoise-shell combs, carts, cart-wheel tires, and other petty iron work, and several tanneries. Ship-building is lim- ited to small schooners and lighters, whose chief merit is great strength derived from the excellence of the timber. Agriculture. — Agricultural science in the island is still in a very prim- itive condition. The antediluvian wooden plough continues in use in the interior, although European implements are being generally adopted on the sugar plantations. Manuring is not practiced, owing to the great native fertility of the soil, and where a constant and numerous succes- sion of crops has impoverished the land, it is abandoned. The latest official statement of the number of acres under cultivation is of too old a date for present reference. The staple productions, constituting the wealth of the island, are sugar, coffee, and tobacco, as, although cotton of excellent quality was extensively cultivated eight or ten years ago, the quantity produced at present is small. Besides the above are raised plantains, maize, rice, sweet potatoes, pulse, yuca, and other vegetables. The fruit of the island is independent of cultivation. The average yield of sugar per cuerda (nearly -an English acre) is about 3,500 pounds, though 5,000 to 6,000 pounds is often produced by the best lands, and even 8,000 and 9,000 pounds in some instances, and this without the 156 Porto Rico : modern improvements in manufacture "which so much increase the pro- duction. The annual crops of the estates average about 300 to 400 hogsheads (of 11 to 12 quintals each), while the largest make from 600 to 1,500 hogsheads. The proportion of molasses is about 4 gallons per 100 pounds of sugar. On plantations that are short of slaves, the Jibaros or country people are employed during the season of cane-cut- ting at the rate of two reales (twenty-five cents, per diem and fed, and they would be far more advantageous to the planter than slaves if their attendance could be relied on, but being indolent, impatient of control, and having few wants to supply, they will seldom be induced to work more than three or four days out of the week, and not very hard then. The cane planted from cuttings matures in 9 to 12 months. The crop usually extends from the beginning of January to May or June. Sugar is very profitable to the Potto Rico planter, paying full interest on the outlay at the rate of $2| the quintal, and it is rarely worth less than $8, and frequently a good deal more. Coffee and tobacco are almost exclusively raised by free labor. The former is superior to that of Brazil, than which it commands nearly one dollar per quintal more in the German markets. There are two distinct qualities — the native or double-shell, and the plantation or single-shell. The first is grown by the peasantry and brought to the shops in small parcels of 25 to 100 pounds in payment of advances in goods and provisions at usurious prices, and is produced at the rate of 15 to 85 pounds per tree, which grows very high, and even spontaneously in the forests. The grains are allowed to dry in the berry, and though comparatively small and dull- colored, are of excellent flavor. On the regular plantations, which are few in number, and whose annual crops vary from 200 to 800 quintals, the trees are pruned low, and do not average much over a pound each. The grain is usually large and of fine color, because it is divested of the pulp and outer skin constituting the berry very soon after being picked. The primitive mode of removing the inner shell, still generally practiced, consists in beating the grains in a large wooden mortar with a pestle, which is sometimes tipped with lead to improve the color of the grains, A coffee plant requires about four years from the time of planting to that of fruition. The coffee market opens in November. Three-fourths of the tobacco is produced on the north coast, and were it not exclu- sively in the hands of the non-progressive peasantry, might be grown of nearly as good quality as in Cuba. As it is, it commands a fair price for the German markets, and in Sabana del Palmar, near the centre of the island, it is of very fine and peculiar flavor, and known as tabaco de Comeri#. Plantains and Indian corn or maize are indigenous to tho soil. The root of the first is perennial, or rather annually renewed bv Physical, Political, and Industrial. 157 three off-sets, each giving one stalk, which grows up in 8 or 9 months and produces a cluster of 100 and upward. Maize giyes three crops a year. In many districts it is raised only for the leaves and stalks to feed horses. The reason why a great deal of rice is not produced is doubtless the want of proper mills to clean it, instead of the mortar and pestle, which, besides the attendant labor, breaks the grain and gives it a dirty appearance. Notwithstanding the suitableness of the soil for both maize and rice, the cultivation of them (especially of the second) is quite inadequate to the consumption, and it seems to be a rule that wherever sugar, tobacco, coffee, or cotton are the staple products, that country, though capable of producing the necessaries of life, will depend upon others for the most of them. Cocoa and indigo grow spontaneously in many parts of the island, but only the first has there been any attempt to cultivate, and but very recently, and it will no doubt prove eminently successful. Porto Rico, although essentially agricultural, did not produce much ki early times. In 1783 the production was only 278,675 pounds of sugar, 111,875 pounds of cotton, 701,775 pounds of tobacco, 1,126,225 pounds of coffee, 8,800 horse-loads of plantains, 1,550,000 pounds maize, and 2,009,000 pounds rice, while in 1834 it rose to 41,989,700 pounds sugar, 402,200 pounds cotton, 2,624,900 pounds tobacco, 11,596,500 pounds coffee, 828,530 loads plantains, 11,548,000 pounds maize, and 8,049,800 pounds rice, besides a million gallons of rum ; and in 1851 the exportation amounted to 118.416.300 pounds sugar, 866,600 pounds cot- ton, 6,478,100 pounds tobacco, 12,111,900 pounds coffee, 4,827,400 gal- lons molasses, and 34,700 gallons rum, showing a remarkable degree of advancement, especially in the production of sugar, in spite of innu- merable disadvantages which might readily be obviated. According to the official returns for 1846, the capital invested in agriculture amount- ed to $40,796,464, and the value of agricultural products for the same year amounted to $6,896,621, or very nearly 17 per cent, on the capital. Navigation and Commerce #* — The number of vessels entered at the * There is neither a bank nor insurance office of any kind in the island. In former years the trade of the island, both import and export, was done almost entirely through St. Thomas, which to this day continues to be the depot for dry goods which are ob- tained by the shop-keepers on a credit of 9 to 12 months, but at prices sufficiently high to compensate both for the time and the great risk of insolvency (the security required being merely nominal), the amount of indebtedness arising from which is estimated at several millions of dollars. The shop-keepers in turn sell on long credits at broadly- margined rates, and the fact that but a minimum of the sales for immediate consump- tion is for cash, at the same time that there is no imprisonment for debt, is a great dis- advantage to the community, the members of which are thus rendered improvident, tempted to extravagance, and constantly involved, besides suffering from the conse- 158 Porto Rico : several custom-houses of the island in 1851 was 1,324, registering 160,- 586 tons, of which the proportion per cent, was, 42 American, 22f Span- ish, 21| British (chiefly Nova Scotian), 5 Bremen and Hamburg, If Hanoverian, Oldenburgian, and Prussian, 1| Sardinian, 2| Danish, 3£ French, and £ Swedish, Dutch, South American, and Dominican. The proportion per cent, at the respective ports was: St. John's 27 (15 k Spanish); Mayagiies 20J (ll£ American); Ponce and Guayanilla 16| (8| American) ; Guayama 13s (8 American) ; Aguadilla 5£ (1J Ameri- can, li German) ; Arecibo 7 J (3| American) ; and Naguabo, Humacao, Fajardo, etc., 9 per cent. (3| American). The number of vessels cleared in the same year was 1,209, registering 154,042 tons. The total value of the trade in 1851 was $11,835,844. Of the imports, which amounted to $6,073,870 (including $763,475 in coin), 19& per cent, was from the United States, 32| from the foreign West India Islands (chiefly St. Thomas), 21| from Spain, 12§ from South America (chiefly in cocoa); 4| from Great Britain, 4| from British North America, 4 from Cuba, and 1| from Germany, Sardinia, and France ; the same being in ratio of 49 1 per cent, to St. John's (8| in bond), 16f to Mayagiies, 14| to Ponce and Guayanilla, 8| to Guayama, 3^ to Aguadilla, 3 to Arecibo, 3£ to Naguabo, and f per cent, to Humacao, Fajardo, etc. The exports amounted to $5,761,974, of which 14i per cent, from St. John's (6J from bond), 23| from Mayagiies, 22$ from Ponce and Guayanilla, 13£ from Guayama, &h from Aguadilla, 8| from Arecibo, 5| from Naguabo, and 5^ from Humacao, Fajardo, etc., distributed in the proportion of 43| per cent, to the United States, 5| to the foreign West India islands, 9§ to Spain, 211 to Great Britain, 6 J to British North America, 7| to Germany, 1£ to Austria, 3 to Sardinia, U to France,- and | to Cuba and South America. Of the value of the imports about 62 per cent, was in Spanish bottoms, 22 per cent, in American, and 10| per cent, in British, and of the exports — 371 per cent, in American, 23^ per cent, in British, quent demoralization. In 1850-51 the colonial administration attempted to put an end to the intermediation of St. Thomas by imposing a differential duty of 15 per cent. ad valorem on imports from that island and other "non-producing" countries, and by establishing bonded warehouses at several ports besides the one already existing at St. John's, and also to encourage the direct importation and exportation of produce, by returning a portion of the inward dues provided the vessel loaded entirely with produce of the island. Except a differential duty of 2i per cent., none of these measures, how- ever.were approved of at Madrid, in consequence, evidently, of good, though perhaps expensive management on the part of the emissaries of the merchants of St. Thomas and none were realized. St. Thomas also is the chief market for the bills of exchange on Europe and the United States drawn in Porto Bico during the shipping season, and likewise for chartering vessels which arrive there in search of freight after discharging their outward cargoes at the Windward Islands. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 159 and 14| per cent, in Spanish, besides the smaller proportions in bottoms of other nations. Of the imports entered for consumption, $1,099,443 was in bread- stuffs, $1,016,522 in textile fabrics, $798,921 in metals, $381,208 in fish, $337,399 in liquids, $233,701 in candles, soap, and wax, $209,416 in tobacco, $200,659 in cooperage materials, $138,942 in lumber, $121,449 in skins and furs, $182,564 in hardware and cutlery, $120,568 in lard, butter, and cheese, $92,607 in provisions, $91,468 in fruit and vegetables, $90,739 in machinery and sugar-pans, $74,223 in agricultural implements, $45,756 in upholstery, $40,252 in earthen and glass ware, 27,741 in haberdashery, $25,249 in coal, $41,000 in clothing and hats, $21,794 in garlic, $17,355 in perfumery, $14,895 in spices, $20,374 in drugs, $23,429 in sugar, $3,882 in playing-cards, $10,479 in ice, and $180,305 in sundries. The imports comprise 44,333 barrels of flour (37,934 from Spain and 2,973 from the United States), 675 puncheons and 9,653 barrels corn meal (515 puncheons and 7,686 barrels from the United States), 200 bushels corn, 65 barrels rye flour, 10,402 quintals rice (9,400 from the United States), 290 quintals oats and barley, 3,881 quintals pilot-bread (3,605 from the United States), 2,709 quintals vermicelli (2,310 from Spain), 16,761 quintals potatoes (8,361 from Spain, 5,764 from the United States), 7,725 quintals onions (3,398 from Spain, 3,105 from the United States), 612 barrels apples (545 from the United States), 816 quintals figs (762 from Spain), 5,852 quintals peas and beans (5,793 from Spain), 23,123 quintals cocoa (from South America), 97,574 quintals dry fish (22,854 from the United States, 64,218 from British North America), 13,860 barrels mackerel (5,208 from the United States, 7,485 from British North America), 6,152 barrels herrings (4,630 from British North America, 714 from the United States), 2,033 quintals smoked herrings (1,388 from the United States), 15,542 gallons fish oil (8,286 from the United States, 4,988 Brit- ish America), 2,939 barrels pork (2,700 from the United States), 843 barrels beef (650 from the United States), 2,155 quintals jerked-beef (244 from the United States, 1,911 South America), 2,180 quintals hams (1,647 from the United States), 5,036 quintals lard (4,868 from the United States), 1,519 quintals butter (1,275 from the United States), 3,697 quintals cheese (2,051 from the United States), 15,688 quintals soap (14,682 from Spain, 427 United States), 119 quintals sperm can- dles (97 from the United States), 4,211 quintals tallow candles (3,861 from the United States), 390 quintals stearine candles (163 from the United States), 10,663 quintals leaf tobacco (7,178 from Cuba, 1,213 St. Domingo, 2,272 United States), 1,580 quintals chewing tobacco (1,506 from the United States), 2,798 thousand cigars (1,473 Cuba, 995 160 Porto Rico: Germany), 149 quintals refined sugar (49 from the United States), 2,603 quintals clayed sugar (from Cuba), 4,575 thousand feet of white-pine lumber (2,936 from the United States, 1,234 British North America), 2,267 thousand feet of pitch-pine lumber (1,904 from the United States), 4,727 thousand shingles (3,413 from the United States, 1,034 British North America), 112,628 hogsheads hoops (98,425 from the United States, 6,524 British North America), 2,081 thousand staves (1,822 from the United States, 696 British North America), 1,947 thousand wood hoops (1,491 from the United States), 3,410 empty hogsheads (2,255 from the United States), 15,400 dozen bottles malt liquor (8,791 England), 64 quintals cassia (47 from the United States), 717 quintals black pepper (705 from the United States), 1,041 pounds tea (504 from the United States), 1,002 barrels tar and pitch (862 from the United States), 3,000 tons coal (1,500 England), 28 horses (25 from the United States), 2 mules (from the United States), 8,545 quintals nails (1,023 from the United States, 3,072 England), 5,307 gallons brandy, 41.215 gallons gin, 86,248 gallons rum, 4,880 dozen liquors, and 580,739 gal- lons wine. The exports comprised 1,184,163 quintals sugar, 121,119 quintals coffee, 64,781 quintals tobacco, 4,827,400 gallons molasses, 6,327 quintals hides, 3,666 quintals cotton, 347 puncheons rum, 5,881 head of cattle 105 horses and 67 mules, 6,167 gallons bay -water, 1,429 thousand ears of Indian corn, 40,863 coco-nuts, 90 quintals cocoa, 6,925 ox-horns, 1,669 thousand oranges, 675 thousand plantains, 35 thousand cigars, 4 tons lignum-vitse, 178 tons logwood, 68 quintals pimento, 8,017 logs cabinet wood, 128 quintals rice, 7,862 pounds annatto, 600 quarts castor oil, besides some cassia-lignea, ginger, tumeric, -coco-nut oil, etc. Revenue. — The revenues of the island are divided into maritime and inland. The first are derived from the customs and harbor dues, and amounted in 1851 to $1,069,448, which is a good deal less than the aver- age of the previous decade, owing to the repeal of the export duties in 1850. The above amount includes $88,477 for tonnage dues, $3,108 for anchorage, and $2,543 for light-house dues. There are no official re- turns published of the inland revenue, nor of the expenses of govern- ment. Coniimmkatioo* — The roads of the island have been "until very re- cently so bad as to be almost impassable in the wet season. Within a few years, however, measures have been taken to improve them, and, if present projects are realized, there will soon be carriage roads commu- nicating between the principal towns. At present, except for very short distances, the island can only be traversed on horseback. The project of a railroad between St. John's and Arecibo has been discussed, but is not likely to be realized for many years. There are several small coast- Physical, Political, and Industrial. 161 ing vessels running between the various ports, and to and from St Thomas, hut affording very indifferent accommodation to passengers. A steamer (the Borinqueno), of 450 tons, built in New York in 1850, for a joint stock company in the island, communicated between the chief ports and St. Thomas for a short time, and promised to be a profitable invest- ment, besides the facilities it afforded to trade and the traveling public , but her machinery soon proved defective, and notwithstanding expensive repairs in New York, in 1858, she now lies useless. There is a monthly steamer from Cadiz to Porto Rico, arriving from the 28th to the 30th, and proceeding to Havana. Twice a month a British Royal Mail Packet steamer from Southampton to St. Thomas, Porto Rico (arriving the 3d and 18th, at 3 p.m.), Jacmel in Hayti, and Jamaica, and thence back to Jacmel, Porto Rico (arriving the 15th and 30th, at 8 a.m.), and St # Thomas. Time from Southampton to Porto Rico, 15 days 21 hours. From St. Thomas the steamers of the above-mentioned company afford communication as follows : 1st. Leaving St. Thomas the 18th for Ha- vana, Vera Cruz, and Tampico, retouching at Vera Cruz and Havana, and returning to St. Thomas the 15th. 2d. Leaving St. Thomas the 4th and 19th for Santa Marta, Carthagena, Chagres, and Greytown, and vice versa (excepting Santa Marta), arriving back at St. Thomas the 15th and 30th. 3d. Leaving St. Thomas the 3d and 18th for St. Kitts, Nevis, Monserrate, Antigua, Guaclaloupe, Dominica, Martinique, St. Lucia, Barbadoes, and Demarara, and vice versa, arriving back at St. Thomas the 30th and 15th. Connecting with the above are the following : From Barbadoes the 6th and 21st for St. Vincent, Carriacon, Grenada, Trin- idad, and Tobago, and vice versa, arriving back at Barbadoes the 12th and 27th. From Jamaica, the 7th, for Honduras, and arriving back at Jamaica the 25th. A British steamer between New York, Bermuda, and St. Thomas used to transport the Porto Rico mails and passengers, but the route was changed some time since to Halifax, Bermuda, and St. Thomas, and at present the only communication with the United States is by sailing vessels. The trade of both St. Thomas and Porto Rico greatly needs a regular and speedy means of intercourse with the United States, and it is to be hoped that steam communication will soon be re- established. The mail betweeen the principal towns of the island is carried twice a week by mounted couriers, and the service is pretty well performed, the postage on a single letter ranging from 6 to 31 cents, according to the distance. . Weights.— These are the same as used in Spain, viz. : The quintal^^a or arrobas=100 libras=200 marcos= 1,600 onzas= 25,600 adarmes^=76,800 tomines=921,600 granos. The libra is equiv- alent to 460 French grammes, or, in English weight, 1.01423 pounds 162 Porto Rico : avoirdupois, or 1.23258 pound Troy. In apothecaries weight — the libra ^=12 onzas=96 dracmas=288 escrupulos=6,212 granos. The arrelde used in weighing beef is equal to 4 libras. Lineal Measure.— The Burgos or t!astilian vara=3 pies=36 pulgadas of 12 lineas each, and is equivalent to 836 French millimetres or 32.91332 English imperial inches. The palmo=9 pulgadas or 12 dedos. The braza=2 varas. The paso=5 pies. The estadal=4 varas. The Castilian league=6,666§ varas, and the provincial league— 5,000 varas. Agrarian Measure. — The cuerda is a square of 75 varas or 5,625 square varas=4,701f square English yards, or nearly an English acre. The caballeria=200 cuerdas or nearly 6 Cuban caballerias, and is usually 10 cuerdas front by 20 deep. The vara de tarea used in clear- ings and cane-cutting=3 lineal varas. The solar or building lot varies in the different towns. Dry Measure. — The fanega=12 almudes, contains 4,322| Spanish or 3,439 English cubic inches, equal to 1.550 English imperial or 1.600 Winchester bushels. The cahiz, used only to measure lime=12 fanegas. The hogshead of sugar ranges from 10 to 18 quintals (tare 10 per cent.), and the barrel 250 to 280 pounds (tare 20 pounds). The bag of coffee 110 to 120 pounds (tare 1 pound). The fanega of cocoa 110 pounds. The pack of cotton 120 pounds. Liquid Measure.— The cuartillo (quart) is nearly one-fifth larger than the Castilian, and contains 725 French millitres or 44.225 English cubic inches. The Spanish arroba of wine or great arroba=l,237| Spanish or 981 English cubic inches, equal to 3.538 imperial gallons. The arroba of oil or small arroba=2.780 imperial gallons. The pipa or pipe of wine— 27 arrobas. In guaging molasses the standard used is the American gallon, equal to 4| cuartillos or common bottles. The puncheon of molasses contains 110 to 140 gallons. Currency.— The coin generally used in the island consists of unmilled and roughly-stamped bits of silver of exceedingly irregular shape, minted in Caracas, and denominated macuquina, of the respective values of 1-16, \, %, and g of a peso or dollar. The whole dollar is very scarce, and the macuquina gold pieces have become cabinet curiosities. The original fullness of weight and purity of this silver coin, added to the facility of counterfeiting it, resulted, soon after the ports of the island were thrown open to foreign trade, in its exportation to a con- siderable extent, and the introduction of spurious pieces, so that the quantity in the island at present is estimated at less than a million of dollars, and characterized by the opposites of the above qualities. The vexed questions constantly arising from its depreciation have caused the government to deliberate on the expediency of withdrawing it, but no Physical, Political, and Industrial. 163 direct measures having yet been taken, it continues to be the general medium, done up in paper packages of $50, which, however, on passing from one hand to another are always opened, counted over, and in part rejected, for which purpose the larger commercial establishments some- times require two clerks. The copper coin is chiefly thin discs weigh- ing about the fourth of a cent, and current at 272 to the dollar. English pennies and American cents also pass, in parts of the island where the proper coin is scarce, at 4 to the medio or l-16th of a dollar. The gold and silver money of Spain, Mexico, and Spanish South America is current, the first. usually at 12 J and the latter at 6| per cent, better than the macuquina ; but this rate varies with the supply, which is rendered necessary by the exacted payment of one-fourth of all the customs-dues in Spanish or ex-Spanish gold. Very recently the circulation of other foreign coin has been authorized at the rates stated in the appendix to this work. 164 Porto Rico DEPENDENCIES. Vieques {Crab Island). — This island, constituting the eighth and last of the departments into which Porto Rico is divided, lies 10£ miles east of the main island, in latitude 18° 10' north and longitude 65° 23' 14" west of Greenwich. It is trapezoidal in shape, 24 miles long from east to west, 6 miles broad, 62 in circumference, and 167 square statute miles in area. The land is moderately high and well wooded : the south- west end hilly, and westward low and uneven. There are numerous shoals and reefs between it and the main island. The soundings 1^ miles from shore are 6 fathoms. Like Porto Rico it is beautified by a luxuriant perennial vegetation, and divided through its length by a mountain chain of little height, the chief eminences of which are Cerro Jaloba on the south-east, and Cerro Tinajas on the west. There are few rivers in the island, and none permanent *nor of pure water, and among the numerous brooks only one (the Quebrada Mulas, near the town) is constant, but small and brackish. There are nine shipping places, viz.: Puerto Mulas on the north, Punta Arenas on the north- west. Puerto Ferrer or Ferro, and Ensenada Honda on the south, Puerto Mosquito and Puerto Real on the south-west, Puertos Diablo and Sali- nas on the east, and Playa-Grande on the west : none of these, however, merits the name of harbor. The climate is warm and damp, and un- healthy in the numerous swampy places. The soil, especially in the lowlands, is good, and the vegetable kingdom is rich, affording excel- lent timber for all purposes, such as dear, tachuelo, capa, cojoba, tor- tugo, zapote, maria, canelo, etc. Pimento and yams abound in the woods. Sugar, coffee, and cotton are produced, besides plantains, rice, and other vegetables, grains and fruits. There is a copper mine in the south-western extremity of the mountain chain near Puerto Real, and three salt-ponds on the north coast, but none of them are worked. The animals are cattle, horses, mules, and sheep ; ducks, flamingoes, cloves, partridges, parrots, pigeons, etc. ; abundance of shell-fish and crabs of great size, and on the south coast tortoise-shell and other turtle are numerous. History is silent in regard to the aboriginal inhabitants of this island, neither is there any record of the first settlement- of Euro- peans. It is', however, upward of forty years ago that several persons from St. Thomas, St. Croix, and other vicine islands settled in it and established a few farms and sugar .plantations. In 1846 the population numbered 1,275. The island is immediately governed by a commandant of the army, Physical, Political, and Industrial. 165 under the orders of the governor of Porto Rico, and assisted by a Junta de visita or circuit court. He resides in the town of Isabel Segunda, ■which is the only one in the island, and was founded in 1843 on the north side in a spacious plain. In 1846 it contained 5 streets, 66 wooden houses and 82 huts, with a population of 854, a church, a temporary hospital, a fort, and a square. Until 1846 the trade was limited to barter of timber and other pro- ductions of the soil, for merchandise from the neighboring islands, but in consequence of the privileges subsequently accorded by the govern- ment, warehouses and shops are being multiplied, and the affairs of the island in general are progressive. The productions in 1846 were valued at $83,494, on a capital of $1,091,901. Culebras, also called Carlit and Serpent's Island on English maps, and sometimes Great Passage Island, lies north-east of Vieques and off the east end of Porto Rico, and is more than six miles in length and about three in breadth. There are many reefs and keys about it. Off its east side is Culebrita or Little Passage Island, from the south end of which a dangerous reef extends to the south-south-west and south-west, three miles. To the west of the south part of this reef is the harbor of Culebra, which is two miles in extent at the entrance. There are two channels into this harbor which are divided by a bed of rocks and bordered by reefs ; but the interior is clear and secure, and there is a pilot in the port. Plenty of water, wood, and fish may be obtained here, and the neighboring keys are famous for a great number of trop- ical birds which breed there. Caja de Mnertos (Dead Man's Chest).— This small islet is situated in lat. 47 °50 / north and long. 66° 33' west, about five miles from the centre of the south coast of Porto Rico. It is shaped like a wedge : the north end high, centre low, and the south end has a sugar-loaf mountain, which appears at a distance like a detached island. It is foul on both north- east and south-west sides. The anchorage is on the west side off the lowland, and half a mile off shore, in eight fathoms. Dcseclieo (Zacheo), fflona, and Monito.— These islets, lying off the west end of Porto Rico, are only frequented by fishermen, and we have no special description of them. They are said to contain wild goats, and even cattle"; and abound in fish, turtle, birds, and fine conches. Mona, the largest (probably 20 square miles in area), is high and well wooded. Its eastern extremity, which projects considerably, is in lat- itude 18° 07', longitude 67° 47'. Monito lies north-west of it in lati- tude 18° ll 7 , longitude 67° 52'. Zacheo is about 18 miles almost due west of Point San Francisco and in latitude 18° 24', longitude 67° 27'. 166 Porto Rico : EARLY HISTORY, Porto Rico was discovered by Columbus in 1493, on St. John's day (24th of June), which was being celebrated on board when land was descried, for which reason the admiral gave it the name of the saint, though the natives called it Borinquen. The beautiful aspect of the country, and the facilities afforded by a fine harbor,* decided Columbus to anchor and land, but at the sight of the Spaniards the natives fled to the woods, and Columbus, inferring that they would prove intract- able, and not wishing to run the risk of a doubtful undertaking, weigh- ed anchor and proceeded on his course toward St. Domingo. Among his companions was Don Juan Ponce de Leon, who in 1508 reconnoitered and took possession of the island. The friendly reception given him by the chief cacique, Agueinaba, added to the fertility of the soil and the gold which was found in abundance, determined Ponce de Leon to form a colony, and he returned to St. Domingo to seek the appointment of governor. But Don Miguel Serron had forestalled him, and at the head of 200 picked men, including the said Leon, Anasco, Sotomayor, Gil, Toro, and Diaz, overcame the resistance of the natives with little loss, and effected a settlement, founding the town of Caparra in 1510, at the place now called Pueblo- viejo, on the southern shore of the har- bor of St. John's. In the same year were begun the settlements of San German and Aguada. In 1511, the Indians, displeased with the distri- bution made of them by Ponce de Leon among his companions, revolted,! and greatly annoyed the intruders ; but after several fierce encounters they were completely subjected on the field of Yagueca or Anasco. However, the incursions of the Caribs were so frequent, and the hur- ricanes so destructive, that the new settlers became discouraged, and the island was almost' deserted in 1530-32. According to history, the population of the island at the time of * It is uncertain what part of the island Columbus first visited, but from the descrip- tion of the Indian town and surrounding country, it was probably Aguadilla. t Though the Spaniards had already occupied the territory for some time, the In- dians still entertained doubts of their mortality, and the cacique Agueinaba (successor to him who had so amicably received Ponce de Leon), and the other Indian chiefs, desiring to test the matter, resolved, that one of them, the cacique Broyoan, should, if possible, put to death the first white man found in his dominions. Salcedo, a young Spaniard, traveling through the province of Tagiieca (now Anasco), was met by sev- eral Indians and accepted their offer to carry him across the Guaurabo Eiver. Mid- way they let him fall and held his head under until life was extinct. This proof of mortality was immediately communicated to all the chiefs in the island, and the gen- eral revolt ensued. Physical, Political, and Industrial.^ 167 its discovery was 600,000. They were peaceful, affable, generous, and hospitable, and punished theft with their severest penalty. They be- lieved in a good spirit from whom they derived all their benefits, and an evil spirit to whom they attributed all their ills. Their chief amuse- ments were dancing and the game of ball. Their weapons were bows and arrows, and a species of club formed like a hatchet, no doubt the same as the North American tomahawk. The men employed themselves in hunting and fishing, and the women in cultivating maize, sweet pota- toes, yams, plantains, etc. The island was invaded by the British as early as 1519. In 1595 the adventurer Drake besieged the capital with a numerous fleet and sacked it, after having burnt the vessels that were in the harbor. This hast- ened the conclusion of the fortifications of the Morro begun by Philip II. In 1598 the Earl of Cumberland landed with 1,000 men and took possession of the Morro, whose garrison of 400 men capitulated ; but an epidemic which broke out among his troops soon obliged him to re- embark, after sacking and firing the town and leaving the fort in ruins. This invasion cost the colony, besides 80 brass-pieces, a large amount of provisions, and the release of many prisoners. In 1615 a powerful fleet, comjnanded by the Dutch general, Baldwin Henry, took possession of the capital and laid siege to the Morro castle, where the citizens and the small number of troops had taken refuge. The besieged, headed by Captain Juan de Amezquita y Quijano, sallied against the enemy and fought so valiantly that in a few hours the Dutch were defeated and Baldwin Henry slain by the intrepid Amezquita. In commemoration of the event there is a monument on the field of the Morro. In 1625 great ravages were committed by the buccaneers and fillibusters, who, however, were completely defeated in 1650. In 1678 the capital was again attacked by a British squadron commanded by Earl Strain, but a violent storm destroyed their vessels against the coast before the troops could be landed. In 1702 another British squadron landed troops on the shores of Arecibo, but so impetuous an onslaught was made on them by a small band of militia cavalry under Captain Correa, that they were forced - to retreat to their ships, leaving many dead and wounded. In 1797 the capital was again besieged by the British under Abercrom- bie, with a large fleet and over 10,000 troops, but so heroic was the defense made by the inhabitants during thirteen successive clays, that the besiegers were compelled to re-embark with great loss in dead, wounded, and prisoners, and in ammunition and stores. Aguadilla also was attacked at the same time and made a brave resistance, and in 1825 repelled some privateers who had taken possession of the fort; Fajardo, too, made a brave defense against the privateers. 168 Porto Kico THE CAPITAL AND THE DEPARTMENTS. ■ San Juan Bantista de Puerto Rico, called St. John's in English, is situ- ated on the north coast, about 80 miles west of Cabeza de San Juan, on an islet about 2| miles in length and little over 500 yards in breadth. This islet is connected by the bridge of San Antonio with a larger one, which is united to the mainland by the Aurora bridge. The city, which with its suburbs occupies an area of 87 acres, was founded in 1511 by the Governor Juan Ponce de Leon, whose fortified residence, now known as the Casa-blanca, was the first edifice of any note therein. In 1846 the number of houses was 918, including the public and state buildings, with a population of 15,867. There are 13 streets — 6 running east and west, and 7 north and south — straight and very well paved, with a con- cave centre instead of gutters at the sides, and, as few wheeled vehicles are used, and the land slopes, every shower washes them thoroughly. The city proper is encircled by a high and exceedingly thick wall,* plen- tifully surmounted by cannon, and embracing two strong fortresses (the Morro on the north-west, at the entrance of the harbor, and San Cristo- bal, with its labyrinthine outworks on the east) and pierced* by three guarded gates — San Justo, San Juan, and Santiago. There are, besides, many well-situated batteries, and the place is altogether so well fortified, and protected moreover by the high and rocky nature of the northern coast, as to be almost impregnable. The principal edifices are — the Casa de Beneficencia (alms-house), with accommodation for 800 persons ; the military hospital, with ample room for 350 beds ; the building containing the treasury offices ; the palace of St. Catherine or Real Fortaleza, where the Captain-General resides and has his office: the arsenal ; the cathe- dral (a great, gloomy structure commenced in 1513 and not finished until very recently) ; the convents of Santo Domingo, San Francisco, and Car- melite nuns, which also serve as churches ; the town-house, seminary of San Ildefonso, the bishop's palace, park of artillery, a fine theatre, cus- tom-house, bonded warehouse, market-house, jail, and house of correc- tion. The intramural dwellings are two stories high, built of brick with very thick walls, balconies, and terrace-roofs, to which the tenants resort in the evening. They are all whitewashed inside and out, and relieved by the green balconies and jalousies, combining with the clean and well- paved streets to give the city a very neat appearance. Water is supplied * This wall forms a parapet over 40 feet thick, and, together with the two main fort- resses, cost so much money that the king of Spain declared that they must have been ^na-'e of solid silver, Physical, Political, and Industrial. 169 by a cistern in every house, and drought seldom lasts long enough to occasion any inconvenience in that respect.* There are several squares, the principal ones being the Plaza de Armas and the Plaza de Santiago, which fronts the theatre and is finely shaded by almond-trees. Two fine military bandsf play in them several evenings in the week. There is also a fine shady paseo extending to the bridge of San Antonio. The climate of the city is hot but dry, and comparatively healthy. A steam ferry-boat plies across the harborf to the village of Cataiio on the main- land. There is a long stone pier at which brigs can discharge. The First Department|| is situated on the north-east of the island, and contains 15 towns with their corresponding districts, viz.: Bayamon, Toa-alta, Toa-baja, Dorado, Naranjito, Vega-alta or Espinosa, Vega- baja or Naranjal, Corozal, Guaynabo, Rio-piedras, Trujillo-alto, Trujillo- bajo, Rio-Grande, Loiza, and Cangrejos. St. John's is the port of entry. Bayamon^ the head of the department, and founded in 1772, is situated near the southern coast of the harbor of St. John's, north of Naranjito, east of Toa-alta, and west of Rio-piedras. Population of the district 8,125. Productions. — Sugar, a little coffee, etc., amounting to $101,913, on a capital of $828,223. Rivers. — The Bayamon, rising in the Cidra mountains and emptying into the harbor of St. John's at Palo-seco, and its tributaries the Rio Hondo and Minillas, besides 13 brooks. Toa-alta, founded in 1751, on the north coast of the island, toward the * An attempt was made some years ago to bore an Artesian well in the principal square, but, owing to want of implements or to ignorance, the contractor, a Swede, we believe, failed, and was condemned to labor in the chain-gang. At the place called Miraflores, near the city, are some excellent springs. t Probably as good as any in Europe. % The harbor of St. John's is very capacious, and ships may lie with the utmost safety in Ave, six, and seven fathoms. The entrance is along the islet on which the city is erected, and between the Morro point (on which is a revolving light, in lat. 1S° 25' 40" north and long. 66° 7' 2'' west of Greenwich, showing S seconds of light to 114 of darkness) and three islets called the Cabras. South of the latter is a small islet occu- pied by a little square fort called the Canuelo, which defends the west side of the har- bor. The chann£l is generally buoyed. The west and south sides of the harbor are flat and shoal. The west side of the entrance is rocky, but in the channel the ground is generally gravel and sand, with depth of five, six, seven, and eight fathoms. " From the south side of the town a low point of land extends to the southward, and is sur- rounded by a shoal. Ships generally ride to the east of this flat, and out of the wash of the sea occasioned by the trade wind, which commonly sets directly into the harbor. It is high- water in the harbor at 8h. 21min. on the full and change, and the greatest rise is about 1|- feet.— BlwnVs Coast Pilot* II These items are chiefly taken from Pastrana's Catechism of Geography. The sta- tistics of population, production, etc., of this and the succeeding departments are from the census of 1S46. In the agricultural productions only sugar, coffee, tobacco, cotton, and cattle will be mentioned. 8 170 Porto Rico : interior, north of Corozal, south of Toa-baja, east of Vega-alta, and west of Bay anion. Population of the district 4,821. Productions. — Sugar and coffee in small quantity, cattle, etc., amounting to $38,862, on a capital of $256,997. Rivers.— The Toa, rising in Cerro-pelado, in Cayey ; the Lajas, rising west of the town; the Mucarahones and Guadiana, ris- ing in the southern wards ; the Canas, flowing from the heights on the south, and the Cancel, rising on the east. These are all tributaries of the Toa, which empties into the sea at the place called Boca Habana. There are also 14 brooks. Toa-baja, founded in 1745, on the north coast, north of Toa-alta, south- east of Dorado, and north-west of Bayamon. Population of the district 2,979. Productions. — Chiefly sugar, and valued at $102,839, on a cap- ital of $981,357. Rivers. — The Toa, before-mentioned, besides several brooks and drains. El Dorado, founded in 1842, on the north coast, east of Vega-baja and north-west of Toa-baja. Population of the district 2,786. Produc- tions. — Oiiefly sugar, and amounting to $78,034, on a capital of $535,329. Rivers. — The Toa, Dorado, Cocal, and Lajas, besides several drains. Naranjito, founded in 1824, in the interior, north of Sabana del Palmar, south of Bayamon, south-east of Corozal, and west of Aguas-buenas. Population of the district 2,835. Productions. — Some coffee, etc., amount- ing to $12,243, on a capital of $106,234. Rivers.— The Rio-Grande or Toa, with its tributaries the Naranjito and Canas, besides 19 brooks. Vega-alta or Espinosa, founded in 1775, on the north coast, north of Corozal, south-west of Dorado, east of Vega-baja, and west of Toa-alta. Population of the district 3,807. Productions. — Sugar and coffee,, etc., amounting to $64,922, on a capital of $227,928. Rivers.— The Sibuco, emptying into the sea north of Naranjal, besides several brooks. Vega-baja or Naranjal, founded in 1776, on the north coast, north of Ciales, east of Manati, and west of Vega-alta. Population of the district 4,173. Productions. — Sugar, coffee, etc., amounting to $81,865, on a capital of $648,998. The forests abound in timber of ortegon, Gear, ausubo, etc. Rivers. — The Sibuco and Morovis, besides several brooks and three large drains. Corozal, founded in 1795, in the interior, northward, south of Toa-alta, north-west of Naranjito, and east of Morovis. Population of the district 5,009. Productions.— All kinds of lesser fruits, amounting to $38,038, on a capital of $244,727. Rivers.— Maravilla, Congo, Corozal, Padilla, Negro, Maria, and Sibuco, besides a number of brooks. Gaaynabo, founded in 1723, in the centre of the department, north of Aguas-buenas, south-east of Bayamon, and west Of Trujillo-alto. Pop- ulation of the district 4,287. Productions.— Chiefly the lesser fruita, Physical, Political, and Industrial.- 171 and amounting to $42,386, on a capital of $351,708. Rivers. — The Guaynabo and the Bayamon, besides innumerable brooks. Rio-piedras (also tailed Eoble),* founded in 1774, at the place called El Roble, in the interior of the territory which partly surrounds the harbor of St. John's, north-west of Trujillo-alto, south of Cangrejos, and east of Bayamon. Population of the district 3,576. Productions. — Several of the lesser fruits, amounting to $50,830, on a capital of $437,203. Rivers. — The Piedras, rising in the heights of Morcelo and emptying into the harbor of St. John's, at the place called Puerto-nuevo, besides several brooks— the one called Quebrada de Juan Mendez being noted for its pure and wholesome waters. Trujillo-alto, founded in 1801, near the centre of the department, north of Gurabo, south-west of Rio-piedras, and east of Guaynabo. Popula- tion of the district 2,749. Productions. — A small quantity of coffee and the lesser fruits, amounting to $11,082, on a capital of $126,065. Rivers. the Loiza, rising in Cerro-Gordo, in Hato-Grande, besides many smaller streams. Trnjiilo-bajo, founded in 1817, near the centre of the department, north-east of Trujillo-alto, south-east of Rio-piedras, and west of Rio- Grande. Population of the district 4,435. Productions.— Chiefly sugar, and amounting to $83,112, on a capital of $646,682. Rivers.— The Loiza and the Canobanilla, besides several smaller streams. Rio-Grande, founded in 1840, near the north coast, east of Trujillo- bajo, south-east of Loiza, and west of Luquillo. Population of the dis- trict 2,884. Productions. — 'Coffee, etc., amounting to $53,866, on a cap- ital of $267,274. Rivers. — Espiritu-Santo, Rio-Grande, Mameyes, and Herrera, besides several brooks. Losza, founded in 1719, on the north coast, north-west of Rio-Grande and Luquillo and north-east of Trujillo-bajo. Population of the district 3,528. Productions. — Sugar, etc., amounting to $147,157, on a capital of $615,320. The forests abound in timber of 6so, ortegon, tortugo, cedar, satin-wood, etc, Rivers. — Rio-Grande or Loiza, Espiritu-Santo, Canobana, Canobanilla, and Mameyes, besides 13 brooks. The sands of the Rio-Grande and its tributaries in this district contain particles of iron, steel, and gold. Cangrejos, founded in 1760, on an islet connecting with the one on which stands the city of St. John's by the bridge of San Antonio, and with the mainland by the "bridge of La Aurora, is situated north of Rio- piedras, east of St. John's, and west of Loiza. The population, produc- * This town is a favorite resort of the people of St. John's (wheuce there is a line of stages), and is famous for its excellent bread. The population, prcduction, etc., of Cangrejos was included in the census of 1846 in the numbers given for Eio-piedras. 172 Porto Rico: tion, etc., of this district in the census of 1846 were included in the num- bers given for Rio-piedras. Productions. — Several of the lesser fruits. Rivers. — The Piedras, besides the rivulet of Juan MSndez, which empties into the sea through the Caiio de la Aurora. The soil is very sandy, and produces an abundance of the fruit called hicacos or cocoa-plums, and pajuiles or cashews. It was on the beach of this islet that the British landed when they besieged St. John's in 1797. Til® Second Department is on the north side of the island, and com- prises a villa and seven towns with their corresponding districts, viz. : Arecibo, Hatillo, Camuy, Quebradillas, Utuado, Morovis, Ciales, and Manati. Villa of IrecJbO, the head of the department and port of entry of the first class, founded in 1778, on the north coast, north of Utuado, east of Hatillo, and north-west of Manati. The town lies about nine and a half leagues westward of St. John's, on a tongue of land between the river and the sea, and on the western side of the roadstead, which, being open to the north wind, affords little shelter to vessels. Population of the dis- trict 11,187. Productions. — Sugar, coffee, tobacco, cattle, etc., amount- ing to $356,138, on a capital of $1,650,456. The forests contain trees of ortegon, maga, tortugo, zapote, capa, roble (oak), laurel, cojoba, ucar, and other fine timber. Rivers. — The Rio-Grrande de Arecibo, rising in Adjuntas and emptying into the roadstead of Arecibo, and its tributaries, the Tanama, Don Alonzo, and Limon, besides several brooks and drains. On the road to Utuado, and about seven miles south-east of the town, at a place callod Consejo, is a cave worthy of being visited by the traveler. Near the town is the Ojo de Agua, a spring bubbling up out of a cavity in the rock, and apparently boiling. The soil of the district is exceed- ingly fertile. Hatillo, founded in 1823, on the north coast, north-east of Quebra- dillas, east of Camuy and west of Arecibo. Population of the district 5,373. Productions. — Coffee, tobacco, much cattle, etc., amounting to $60,334, on a capital of $367,664. Rivers.— The Hatillo, which rises in Lares and disembogues in the sea north-west of the town, and the Ta- nama, besides two brooks. Camuy, founded in 1807, on the north coast, north-east of Quebradillas, east of Isabela, and west of Hatillo. Population of the district 5,382. Productions. — Coffee, tobacco, etc., amounting to $52,565, on a capital of $298,966. Rivers.— The Camuy, which is the Hatillo before-mentioned, and the Cibao, which flows into the Guajataca, besides two brooks. Q,ncl)radi!las, founded in 1823, near the north coast, south-east of Isabela and south-west of Camuy. Population of the district 4,618. Productions. — Coffee, tobacco, a little sugar, etc., amounting to $40,516, Physical, Political, and Industrial. 173 on a capital of $286,528. Rivers. — -The Guajataca or Tuna, rising in Lares and disemboguing in the sea north of Isabela, "besides several brooks. The district is famous for the sweetness of its oranges. Utuado, founded in 1739, near the centre of the island, north of Adjuntas, south of Arecibo, south-east of Lares, and south-west of Ciales. Population of the district 7,804. Productions.— Coffee, sugar, etc., amounting to $65,566, on a capital of $375,109. The forests, which are very thick, afford excellent timber of various kinds. Rivers. — The Rio-Grande or Utuado, which is the same that traverses Arecibo, the Jayuga, Tanama, Caricaboa, Lesama, Montana, Saliente, Mamey, Hara- gan, Jauca, Limon, Yuni, Pellejas, Guanico, Bibi, and Caguanita, all emptying into the first, besides numerous smaller streams. There is a cave at the place called Caguana, supposed to have been used as a cem- etery by the aborigines from the human remains found in it. Morovis, founded in 1818, near the centre of the island, north of Barros, south of Vega-alta, east of Ciales, and west of Corozal. Popu- lation of the district 4,808. Productions. — Chiefly coffee, and amount- ing to $32,650, on a capital of $203,855. The forests abound in the best timber of the country. Rivers. — The Rio-Grande or Manati, Morovis, Unibon, and Carrera, besides several brooks. Ciales, founded in 1820, in the interior of the island, northward, west of Morovis, south of Manati, and north-east of Utuado. Population of the district 3,074. Productions. — Coffee and tobacco in small quantity, etc., amounting to $25,057, on a capital of $159,713. Rivers. — The Rio- Grande or Manati, besides one brook. Manati (a port of entry of the third class), founded in 1738, near the north coast, north of Ciales, south-east of Arecibo, and west of Vega- baja. Population of the district 11,598. Productions. — Sugar, coffee, tobacco, etc., amounting to $149,712, on a capital of $997,144. Rivers. -The Manati, rising in Barranquitas and emptying into the sea on the north. There is a bed of coal in this district on the estate of Mr. Cor- nelius H. Kortright. The Third Department is situated on the north-west side of the island, and comprises one villa and six towns with their corresponding districts, viz. : Aguadilla, Isabela, Moca, Villa de la Aguada, Rincon, Pepino, and Lares. Aguadilla,* the head of the department and port of entry of the first * The town is in lat. 18° 24' 57", and long. 67° 8' 15" (as observed by Capt. John McKellar, E. N., and 18° 25' 53" and 67° 0' 20" as given by Spanish officers), about seven and a half miles north-east by east from Punta San Francisco, and about two miles south-south-east of Punta de Peiias Blancas, which is the northernmost point of the bay which fronts the town, and affords anchorage for the largest ships with shelter 174 Porto Rico: class, founded in 1775, on the north-west coast, south-west of Isabela and north-west of Moca. The town contains several fine dwellings and warehouses and a theatre. Population of the district 10,458. Produc- tions. — Sugar, coffee, tobacco, cattle, etc., amounting to $158,041, on a capital of $1,080,601. Rivers. — The Chiquito, which rises in the dis- trict, and the Culebrinas, rising in Lares — both disemboguing in the sea between Aguadilla and Aguada. There are also seven brooks. As pre- viously stated, it is supposed that this was the port made by Columbus on the discovery of the islands. The town was attacked in 1797 by sev- eral British vessels, and in 1822 and 1825 was -partly destroyed by fire. In 1825 the battery was taken by pirates, who were, however, soon put to flight. Isabela (a port of entry of the third class), founded in 1819, on the north-west coast, north-west of Quebradillas and north-east of Agua- dilla. Population of the district 9,405, Productions. — Sugar, coffee, tobacco, cattle, etc., amounting to $160,581, on a capital of $725,101. Fossil salt is found on a hill near the Guajataca Eiver. Rivers. — The Guajataca or Tuna, besides two brooks. Moca, founded in 1774, near the coast, north-west of Pepino, south- east of Aguadilla, and north-east of Aguada. Population of the district 8,213. Productions. — Coffee, a little sugar, etc., amounting to $89,837, on a capital of $481,837. The forests abound in capa, cedar, ausubo, algarrobo or locust, tortugo, and other hard woods, and there is a quarry of grindstone in the vicinity. Rivers. — The Culebrinas, rising in Lares and emptying into the sea between Aguada and Aguadilla, besides 22 brooks and several drains. Villa de la Aguada, founded in 1506, on the north-west coast, north- west of Anasco, north-east of Bincon, and south-west of Moca and Agua- dilla. Population of the district 8,103. Productions. — Sugar, coffee, tobacco (in small quantity), etc., amounting to $84,116, on a capital of $546,884. Rivers. — The Culebrinas, Rio-Grande, and Guayabo, which from the sea-breeze ; there being ten fathoms at about three cables length from shore, and no less than seven to eight fathoms at a distance of one-fourth of a mile anywhere from" shore. Tbe whole bay is perfectly clear with exception of the white reef, Penas Blancas, extending from Punta de Palmas, which is the northernmost point of the bay. It may be entered easily and safely at any hour of the day, but not at night, when the breeze dies away and calm ensues. Tbe sea in general is smooth, with the usual trade- wind, but becomes very rough with a norther. There is excellent water to be obtained from the Ojo de Agua, which passes through the middle of the town. There. is also a good river of fresh water. There is a small battery of three guns commanding the north side. The bay is much frequented by vessels bound from Europe to Cuba, both on account of facility in obtaining refreshments and to procure pilots for the Old Bahama channel. — B 7 unVs Coast Pilot. There are no wharves or piers, and boats are beached. Physical, Political, and industrial. 175 srnpty into the sea, and their tributaries the Culebras and Canas, be- sides seven brooks and two drains. Here was the residence of the chief Indian cacique, Agueinaba, and it must therefore have been the princi- pal place in the island before the Conquest. Silicon,* founded in 1770, on the north-west coast, south-west of Aguada and north-west of Anasco. Population of the district 4,385. Productions. — Cattle (abundant), sugar, a little coffee, etc., amounting to $25,623, on a capital of $162,960. Rivers.— The Rio-Grande, which separates the town from that of Aguada, besides four brooks and nine drains. PepiiiO, founded in 1752. in the interior toward the north-west coast, north-east of Anasco and north-west of Lares. Population of the dis- trict 10,723. Productions. — Coffee, sugar, cotton, etc., amounting to $99,546, on a capital of $499,473. Rivers.— The Culebrinas, Guatemala (a thermal stream), Guacio, Sonador, Guajataca, Cibao, Arenas, and Juncal, besides 36 brooks. Lares, founded in 1829, in the interior toward the north-west coast, south of Quebradillas and south-east of Pepino. Population of the dis- trict 6,035. Productions. — Coffee, sugar, cotton, etc., amounting to $58,040, on a capital of $272,803. The district abounds in excellent timber. Rivers. — Guajataca, Camuy, Prieto, Guallo, Cedrito, and Cu- lebrinas, all having their sources in the district, and the Guacio, which rises in Adjuntas, besides 13 brooks. Ihc Fourth Department is situated on the west coast of the island, and comprises two villas and three towns, with their corresponding districts, viz. : Villa de Mayagiies, Aiiasco, Cabo Rojo, Villa de San German, and Sabana-Grande. Mayagucs,f the head of the department and port of entry of the first class, founded in 1760 on the west coast, north of Cabo Rojo, south of Anasco, and north-west of Sabana-Grande. The town proper is situated at the base of a range of hills and about one mile from the bay, on which is a large number of dwellings, fine fire-proof warehouses, etc. The road. between is flanked by dwelling-houses and shady sand-box * The bay is well sheltered but small, of unequal bottom, and fall of rocks. t The custom-house of Mayagiies is in lat. 1S° 13' north and long. 67° 12' 45" west by French survey, and 67° 8' 0" on English charts. The anchorage is well sheltered from the north and fit for ships, provided they are not very large, there being five fathoms water inside the bar. A good knowledge of the entrance is necessary to avoid a shoal stretching about half a mile out from Punta del Algarrobo and a reef extending two cable-lengths from the little point called Puntilla. The river runs into the northern- most part of the bay, and in this estuary schooners and sloops, for the most part, lie up during the hurricane season, being the best anchorage on the west coast. The tides rise and fall two to four feet— time irregular. — Bhinffs Coast Pilot. 176 Porto Rico . trees. The town, which was almost entirely destroyed by fire the 30th of January, 1841 (loss estimated at two or three millions of dollars), and again partly burnt down the 2d of January, 1852, contains a num- ber of fine two-story brick houses, some of them very large, with iron doors and balconies, and furnished in the best style ; a large church, town-house, barracks (a large stone edifice with a battery of several guns), and a neat square where a military band plays twice a week. Water is supplied by a few wells, but chiefly by the river which runs close by, and an excellent spring at the foot of the hills above-mentioned. The custom-house is fire-proof and a striking building. On the north side of the bay is a small battery, and near by is a large iron edifice built for the foundry and sugar-refinery mentioned in a previous chap- ter. There are several sugar estates in the immediate neighborhood. It was here that about four years ago Commander Eandolph, of the American sloop-of-war Albany, aided by the consul, Mr. Turull, exacted the liberation of the captain and crew of the schooner North Carolina (wrecked on the coast), who were detained by the authorities for the investigation of the wreck. The population of the district in 1846 was 20,952. Productions. — Sugar, coffee, etc., amounting in that year to $603,780, on a capital of $3,192,274. Rivers.— The Aiiasco, also known as the Rio-Grande or Guaurabo, which rises in Cerro Cain, in San Ger- man, and disembogues in the sea south-west of that town ; the Caiias, Arenas, Mayaguesillo, Guaba, and Mucarabona or Bucarabones, which empty into the Anasco ; the Casey, tributary of the Caiias ; the May- agues, that empties into the port; the Guanajibo, rising in Cerro Cain and emptying into the sea south-west of Mayagiies, and its tributary, the Rio-Hondo. There are, moreover, 71 brooks. There is a quarry of good building stone near the town, and metallic substances in the hills. Anasco* (a port of entry of the third class), founded in 1703, on the west coast, north of Mayagiies, south-east of Aguada, and south-west of Pepino. Population of the district 11,714. Productions. — Sugar, coffee, etc., amounting to $286,554, on a capital of $1,128,574. Rivers. — The Aiiasco or Guaurabo, which rises in Cerro Cain, in San German, and disembogues in the sea south-west of the town; its tributaries the Casey, Caiias, Humata, and Daguey, and the Rio-Hondo, which empties into the Guanajibo, besides 36 brooks. This is a flourishing and fertile district, and was also a place of note among the aborigines, who called it Yagueca. Pyrites and marquesites are found in the mountains. €abO Rojof (a port of entry of the second class), founded in 1771, on * The bay is fit for vessels of any size, and is completely sheltered from the north winds, t Puerto Real de Cdbo Bojo, about five and a half miles south of Punta de Guana* Physical, Political, and Industrial. 177 the west coast, south of Mayagiies and west of San German. Population of the district 17,892. Productions. — Sugar, coffee, cotton, a little tobacco, etc., amounting to $288,093, on a capital of $1,100,558. Rivers.— The Viejo and the Estero, which rise in Cerro Cain, in San German, and empty into the Guanajibo, besides several brooks and a number of drains. This district contains a quarry of laminous stone, and the salt-pits of Sierra de Penones, which produced 981 fanegas in 1851. Villa de San German, founded in 1511, on the west coast, inland, west of Sabana-Grande and east of Cabo Rojo. Population of the dis- trict 44,402. Productions. — Sugar, coffee, a little cotton, and tobacco, etc., amounting to $359,817, on a capital of $2,371,181. Rivers.— Rio- Grande or Guanajibo, rising in Cerro Cain, in the district ; its tribu- taries, the Cruavo, Miraflores, Maunabo, Cain, Oconuco, Duey, Rosario, Estero, and Viejo ; the Prieto, Guallo, Toro, Guaba, Lajas, Zapo, and Bucarabones or Mucarabona, which empty into the Anasco River, be- sides many brooks and several drains and lagoons. There are good grounds for believing that there are two veins of gold in the district — one in the hills that rise from the banka of the Oconuco River, and the other in a rivulet at the place called San Pedro. This district is mostly lowland, and therefore generally known as La Bajura. It is famous for fine sweetmeats (generally made by the women) and for embroideries.* Sabana-Grande, founded in 1814, on the west coast, inland, east of San German and south-east of Mayagiies. Population of the district 4,935. Productions. — Sugar, coffee, a little cotton, and tobacco, etc., amounting to $31,715, on a capital of $224,375. Rivers.— The Rio- Grande, which empties into the sea under the name of Guanajibo ; the Canas, Cruavo, Miraflores, Coco, and Subsua, besides many brooks. The Fifth Department is situated on the south side of the island and comprises two villas and nine towns, with their corresponding dis- tricts, viz. : Villa de Ponce, Barros, Adjuntas, Yauco, Guayanilla, Pen- uelas, Juana Diaz, Santa Isabel de Coamo, Villa de Coamo, Aybonito, and Barranquitas. jibo, is a fine harbor, nearly circular in figure, and about three-fourths of a mile in extent from west to east. In the centre there is 16 feet of water and 3 fathoms at the entrance, which is by a very narrow channel near the south point of the harbor. From the north point a great reef stretches out, which, doubling Oayo Fonduco, enda at Pimta de Veras. South-south-west, about two miles from the southernmost point, is Punta de Guaniquilla, the north point of the Bay of Boqueron, which is so full of reefs as not to allow anchorage. Punta de Melones, the south point, is distant from the first about two and a half miles.— BlunVs Coast Pilot. * Especially towels, some of which are so elaborately worked as to cost $20 to $80. 178 Porto Rico: Ponce,* the head of the department and a port of entry of the first class, founded in 1752, on the south coast, east of Guayanilla, south- east of Penuelas, and south-west of Juana Diaz. The town is about one and a half miles distant from the bay, with straggling houses be- tween, and separated by an unbridged, shallow stream, which becomes a torrent after heavy rains. The church, which is one of the finest in the island, is surrounded by a large square and fragrant acacia trees. Around this square are fine brick houses two stories high, but the rest are poor-looking one-story wood houses. The barracks is a large stone edifice, and serves as a fortress. The buildings on the bay are chiefly fire-proof warehouses and the dwellings of the merchants, many well built and in the European style, though* generally but one story high. Population of the district 21,466. Productions. — Sugar, coffee, tobacco, etc., amounting to $803,607, on a capital of $3,989,382. Rivers.— The Jacaguas and the Inabon, both rising in Utuado and emptying into the sea south of Juana Diaz ; the Bucana, also rising in Utuado, and the San Patricio in Acljuntas under the name of Corcho, both emptying into the eastern side of the bay of Ponce ; the Portugues or Ponce, which rises in Adjuntas, and the Marueno and Caiias, the three emptying into the western side of the bay. There are also several brooks and drains. In this district there is a quarry of white stone and several hot mineral springs in the ward of Quebrada Domingo. The town was almost en- tirely destroyed by fire the 27th of February, 1820. Barros, founded in 1825, on the north of the department and in the centre of the island, south of Morovis and north-west of Barranquitas. Population of the district 2,810 Productions.— Coffee, etc., amounting to $11,416, on a capital of $87,065. The forests contain many kinds of timber for building and cabinet-work. Rivers. — The Orocovis and Barros^which rise in the district ; the Bauta, which originates in the hills between the town and Ciales, and the Lamas, rising in Barran- quitas : all emptying into the Kio- Grande of Manati, besides many smaller streams. Adjuntas, founded in 1815, on the south coast, inland, north-east of Penuelas, south of Utuado, east of Sabana-Grande, and north-west of Juana Diaz. Population of the district 3,070. Productions. — Coffee, etc., amounting to $20,164, on a capital of $128,270. The forests abound in cedar, capa, oak, ortegon, guaraguao, higuerillo, laurel, canelo (a species of cinnamon), and other trees. Rivers. — The Portugues or Ponce * The town and harbor are about five leagues east of Guanica. Land low near the water's edge and covered with mangrove bushes and some cocoa-nut trees. There is a low, sandy island and a reef near the entrance of the port. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 179 and the Corcho, under the name of San Patricio, both of which disem- bogue in the district of Ponce; the Saltillo, Cienagas, Pellejas, and Tanama, which empty into the Arecibo River; the Vacas, a tributary of the Jacaguas of Juana Diaz, and the Viejas, Guilarte, Limani, Cidra, and Guallo, which, under other names, disembogue in the district of Anasco. All these have their sources in the district, which is also watered by 218 smaller streams, and in this respect is probably without a parallel. Yaueo,* founded in 1756, near the south coast, west of Guayanilla, south-east of San German, and south-west of Pe'nuelas. Population^ the district 11,468. Productions.— Sugar, etc., amounting to $98,138, on a capital of $459,987. Rivers.— The Yauco, which rises in the dis- trict and disembogues in the sea south of Guayanilla ; the Subsua, which, confluent with the CaSas of Sabana- Grande, empties into the port of Guanica, and the Duey, tributary of the Yauco, besides several brooks. Guayanilla (a port of entry of the second class), founded in 1833, on the south coast, east of Yauco, south-west of Penuelas, and west of Ponce. Population of the district 5,722. Productions.— Sugar, coffee, tobacco, etc. , amounting to $94,502, on a capital of $637,572. The forests abound in u'car. yaiti, cojoba, cedar, ausubo, capa, and other trees. Rivers.— The Guayanilla, rising in the Guilarte Mountain, and the Yauco, both empty- ing into the sea south of the town. There are also a brook and several drains. The place was invaded in 1797 by the British, who were re- pulsed by the inhabitants, and in 1838 and 1839 the town was partly burnt down. Penuelas (a port of entry of the third class), founded in 1793, near the south coast, north-west of Ponce, south-west of Adjuntas, and north-east of Yauco. Population of the district 7,561. Productions.— Sugar, coffee, cotton, tobacco, etc., amounting to $67,663, on a capital of * The harbor of Guanica, a port of entry of the third class, lies immediately west of Yauco, 16 miles west of Ponce and about 15 miles east of the Morrillos de Cabo Rojo. " It is the best anchorage on the south coast, and fit for vessels of all classes, with from six and a half to three fathoms water, which latter depth is found in its interior. The bottom is sand and gravel. The mouth of the harbor is in the centre of the bay, formed by the Fronton (cliff or bluff) de la Brea on the west, and Punta Picua on the east,' near which last are the two islets of Cana-gorda, between which and Punta de la Meseta, which is the east point of the entrance of the harbor, there is a reef which reaches out from the coast about a mile and nearly forms a circle, uniting at one end with the islets and at the other with Punta de la Meseta ; there is also a rocky shoal stretching out about half a mile from it. Between Fronton de la Brea and Punta de los Pescadores, which last is the west point of the mouth of the harbor, the coast forms another bay, the mouth of which is shut by a reef, that running out from Punta de los Pescadores, ends on the south side of the bay, about a mile within the Fronton de la Brea."— BlunVs Coant Pilot. 180 Porto Ei co: $259,644. Rivers. — The Barreal, Guayanos, Yaya, and Jobos, which empty together into the sea south of the town, taking in their course the names of the various districts they traverse. There are also several brooks. Jisasia Diaz, founded in 1798, near the south coast, north-east of Ponce and west of the Villa de Coamo. Population of the district 7,616. Pro- ductions. — Sugar, coffee, tobacco, etc., amounting to $106,929, on a cap- ital of $756,583. Cattle abound. Rivers. — The Jacaguas, Guallo, and Toabaca, which empty into the sea south of the town ; the Escalabrado, emptying into the sea south-east of the town, and the Inabon, which sep- arates the district from that of Ponce, besides several brooks. There is a quarry of white stone in the vicinity. Santa Isabel de Coamo, also called Coamo- Abajo (a port of entry of the third class), founded in 1841, on the south coast, south of Villa de Coamo and south-east of Juana Diaz. Population of the district 991. Productions. — Sugar, etc., amounting to $25,284, on a capital of $202,116. Rivers. — The Piedras-blancas and the Coamo, which empties into the sea south-west of the town. There are some fine hot mineral springs two and one-third leagues north-east of the town, which are re- sorted to by invalids. Villa de Coamo, also called Coamo- Arriba, founded in 1646, on the south coast, inland, north of Santa Isabel, east of Juana Diaz, and south-west of Aybonito. Population of the district 3,805. Productions. — Coffee, tobacco, etc., amounting to $36,122, on a capital of $212,025. Rivers. The Coamo, which rises in the district and empties into the sea south- west of Santa Isabel, its tributaries the Minas and the Cullon, the Esca- labrado and the Toabaca, which disembogue near Juana Diaz, and the Jueyes, which empties into the sea south of the town of Salinas, besides 29 brooks. Aybosiito, founded in 1822, on the north of the department in the cen- tre of the island, north-east of the Villa de Coamo and south-east of Bar- ranquitas. Population of the district 3,059. Productions. — Coffee, etc., amounting to $29,763, on a capital of $216,477. Rivers.— The La Plata, rising in Cayey, in Cerro-pelado ; its tributary the Honduras or Usabon, and the Cullon, besides several brooks. Barranqmtas, founded in 1803, on the north of the department in the centre of the island, north-west of Aybonito, south-east of Barros, and south-west of Sabana del Palmar. Population of the district 3,600 Productions. — Cattle, coffee, etc., amounting to $19,296, on a capital of $179,092. Pavers. — The Usabon, tributary of the La Plata ; the Pinona. which rises in the district in the hill called La Torrecilla and flows into the Usabon ; the Bio- Hondo, another tributary of the La Plata, and ris- Physical, Political, and Industrial. 181 ing in the district ; the Barrancas and the Cunabon, which rise in the Torrecilla and empty into the Manati, besides several brooks. The Sixth Department is situated on the eastern extremity of the island, southward, and comprises nine towns with their corresponding districts, viz. : Humacao, Naguabo, Ceiba, Fajardo, Luquillo, Las Pie- dras, Patillas, Maunabo, and Yabucoa. Humacao, the head of the department and port of entry of the second class, founded in 1793, on the east coast, north of Yabucoa, south-east of Las Piedras, and south-west of Naguabo. Population of the district 6,165. Productions.— Sugar, a little coffee, etc., amounting to $116,916, on a capital of $670,123. The district abounds in cattle. Rivers.— The Humacao, which rises south of the town of Las Piedras and empties into the sea south-west of Humacao ; the Anton Ruiz, rising in the district, and the Candelero, which rises in the south in Cerro-pelado and empties into the sea by the Boca de Candelero, south-west of the town. There are also many brooks. Prom some meteorological cause or other, phe- nomena in animal life are frequently met with in this district and its neighborhood, such as dwarfed men, distorted animals, etc. Naguabo (a port of entry of the first class), founded in 1794, on the east coast, north-east of Humacao and south-west of Ceiba. Population of the district 5,841. Productions.— Sugar, cattle, a little coffee, etc., amounting to $83,049, on a capital of $643,888. In 1851 nearly 6,000 beeves were shipped from this port for the consumption of the neighbor- ing French and Danish islands. The forests abound in ausubo, yellow and black cojoba, algarrobo, tachuelo, capa, and other hard wood, and wild hogs are sometimes met with. Rivers.— The Naguabo, called Blanco at its rise ; its tributaries the Cubui and Prieto, and the Santiago and Daguao, all rising in the Luquillo mountains and emptying into the sea south-east of the town. There are also many smaller streams. La €eiba, founded in 1838, on the east coast, north-east of Naguabo and south of Fajardo. Population of the district 2,024. Productions. — Sugar, a little tobacco, cattle, etc., amounting to $37,608, on a cap- ital of $230,216. Rivers.— The Daguao and the Fajardo, besides sev- eral brooks. Fajardo (a port of entry of the second class), founded in 1774, on the east coast near the headland of San Juan, north of Ceiba and south-east of Luquillo. Population of the district 5,009. Productions. — Sugar, cattle, etc., amounting to $113,901, on-a capital of $475,807. The for- ests afford ausubo, tabanuco, masa, granadillo, guaraguao, and other useful timber. Rivers. — The Fajardo, which rises in the Luquillo mount- ains and disembogues in the sea on the south of the port ; there are also eight smaller streams. The sands of the river are auriferous. Nearly 182 Porto Rico: the whole town was burnt down on the 29th of April, 1832, and the 11th of April, 1833. Luquillo (a port of entry of the third class), founded in 1797, on the north-east coast, north-west of Fajardo and east of Rio-Grande. Popu- lation of the district 2,918. Productions. — Sugar, etc., amounting to $46,123, on a capital of $254,429. The forests abound in tabanuco, ausubo, laurel, sabina, algarrobo, Gear, and other trees. Rivers. — The Mameyes, Sabana, Pita-jaya, and Juan Martin, which rise in the mount- ains on the south of the district. The first and last empty into the sea on the north of the town, and the others together on the east. There are also 22 brooks. The sands of the streams are auriferous, and small nuggets of gold have been found in the Luquillo mountains. Las Piedras, founded in 1801, on the east coast, inland, north-east of Hato-Grande or San Lorenzo, north-west of Humacao, south-west of Naguabo, and south-east of Juncos. Population of the district 4,801. Productions. — Coffee, tobacco, etc., amounting to $24,025, on a capital of $173,569. Rivers. — The Gurabo, which rises in the Luquillo mount- ains and empties into the Rio-Grande of Loiza, and its tributaries the Humacao and the Valencia, besides a large number of smaller streams. Patilfas (a port of entry of the third class), founded in 1811, on the south-east coast, north-east of Guayama and south-west of Maunabo. Population of the district 5,734. Productions. — Sugar, tobacco, cattle, etc., amounting to $90,119, on a capital of $579,788. . The forests are well stocked with cojoba, pendola, tortugo, tachuelo, maga, cedar, jaca- na, jaya, palo de vaca, yaiti, carne de doncella, and many other trees affording excellent timber and cabinet-wood. Large masses of rock- crystal are found in the Mala-pascua mountain. The town was half burnt down in 1841. Manna!)©, founded in 1799, on the south-east coast, north-east of Pa- tillas and south of Yabucoa. Population of the district 2,633. Produc- tions. — Coffee, tobacco, a little sugar, etc., amounting to $25,618, on a capital of $209,688. The forests abound in various fine timber. Rivers. — The Maunabo, rising in the mountain ridge which separates the dis- trict from those of San Lorenzo and Yabucoa, and emptying into the sea on the south of the town. There are many brooks besides. Yatoracoa, founded in 1793, on the south-east coast, north of Maunabo and south of Humacao. Population of the district 6,468. Productions. — Sugar, a little coffee, cattle, etc., amounting to $96,818, on a capital of $768,601. Rioers. — The Guayancs, rising in the mountain that sep- arates the district from that of San Lorenzo, receives the Ingenio and Limones, and empties into the sea on the east of the town, besides 38 smaller streams. Physical, Political, and Industrial. 183 The Seventh Department is situated inland toward the east coast, and comprises ten towns with their corresponding districts, viz. : Guayama, Hato-Grande, Juncos, Gurabo, Caguas, Aguas-buenas, Sabana del Pal- mar, Cidra, Cayey, and Salinas. Gaayania,* the head of the department and a port of entry of the first class, founded in 1736, on the south coast, south-east of Cayey and south- west of Patillas. The part of the town situated on the bay is called Ar- royo, the town proper being some distance inland. Arroyo contains some fine dwellings and warehouses, and it is contemplated to erect a church there. Population of the district 12,244. Productions. — Sugar, etc., amounting to $616,295, on a capital of $3,801,864. The forests abound in ficar, algarrobo, capa, cojoba, tachuelo, etc. Rivers. — The Aguamani, which rises in the Carite mountain, north-east of the town, and empties into the sea on the south ; the BAo-Seeo, called Charcas at its source, north of the port of Jobos, and spreading its waters over the land near said port, and the Yaurel, which rises north of Arroyo and disembogues in the sea south-east of the town under the name of Nigua. There are also 41 brooks. The prosperity of this district, and of nearly the whole south coast, is greatly retarded by the drought that usually prevails there. Hato-Grande or San Lorenzo, founded in 1811, inland toward the east coast, south-west of Las Piedras and east of Cidra. Population of the district 6,672. Productions. — Sugar, a little coffee, etc., amounting to $63,832, on a capital of $275,701. Rivers.— The Rio-Grande or Loiza, which rises in Cerro-Gordo, south of the district, and empties into the sea north of Loiza, and its tributaries the Majaguas, rising in the Cule- bras mountain which separates the district from that of Caguas, and the Cayaguas, which rises in Yabucoa, besides 75 smaller streams. The waters of some of the brooks are hot. Jnncos, founded in 1797, toward the east coast, inland, north-east of Hato-Grande, nor|h-west of Las Piedras and south-east of Gurabo. Pop- ulation of the district 3,584. Productions.— Sugar, coffee, cattle, etc., amounting to $30,906, on a capital of $309,142. Rivers.— The Valen- ciano, rising in the Guineo mountain, south-east of the town, and the * The anchorage is formed by a shoal two or three miles in length and three or four miles from the coast, and has no other shelter from the sea breeze than the shoal. Vessels usually anchor in four fathoms one mile from the shore. The soundings of the entrance vary from five to seven and eight fathoms, gradually shoaling toward the Shore. The land by the water side is low, but up the country high and uneven.— JSlunfs Coast Pilot. The port of Jobos also serves for the export trade of the district. It is a port of entry of the third class, and one of the best in the island, being, in fact, a regular wet-dock, but the entrance affords only 14 to 15 feet draft. Ti e bottom throughout is soft mud. 184 Porto Rico : Gurabo, rising on the north-east, both emptying into the Rio-Grande of Loiza, and there are besides 49 brooks. Criiratoo, founded in 1815, inland, toward the east coast, north-west of Juncos, south of Trujillo-alto, and north-east of Caguas. Population of the district 3,876. Productions. — Little sugar and coffee, cattle, etc., amounting to $24,816, on a capital of $167,434. Rivers.— The Rio- Grande or Loiza, which rises in Cerro-Gordo, in Hato-Grande, and its tributary the Gurabo, which rises in Juncos, besides 29 smaller streams. Caguas, a considerable town and seat of the judicature of the depart- ment, founded in 1775, inland, toward the east coast, north-east of Sa- bana del Palmar, south-west of Gurabo, and south-east of Aguas-buenas. Population of the district 7,808. Productions. — Sugar, coffee, cattle, etc., amounting to $91,684, on a capital of $722,347. The forests abound in moca, granadillo, laurel, guaraguao, oak, and many other trees. Rivers. — The Rio-Grande or Loiza and its tributaries; the Turabo, which rises in the same district, in Cerro-pelado ; the Caguitas, rising in Sierra de Caguas ; the Bairoa, whose source is in the ward De las Mulas, in Aguas-buenas, and the Cana which rises in the Jagueyes ward, in Aguas-buenas ; the Quebradillas, rising westward near the district of Cidra and emptying into the Turabo ; and the Caibonito, rising in the Alto de los Naranjos, in the district, and emptying into the Caguitas , besides 40 brooks. There is a quarry of marble in the vicinity. Ag&as-Baeoas, founded in 1838, in the north of the department, north- west of Caguas and south of Guaynabo. Population of the district 3,912. Productions. — Coffee, etc., amounting to $16,718, on a capital of $110,111. Rivers. — The Bayamon, rising in Cidra and emptying into the sea near St. John's, and the Caguitas, Bairoa, and Cana, which empty into the Loiza ; besides 21 brooks. In the ward of Sumidero, on the south of the town, is a very large cave whose limits have not been ascertained, but it is supposed to extend as far as the town of Sabana del Palmar. # Sabana del Palmar, founded in 1826, in the east of the department, near the centre of the island, north-east of Barranquitas, south of Na- ranjito, north-west of Cidra, and south-west of Caguas. Population of the district 2,533. Productions. — Tobacco of excellent quality, known as " Tabaco de Cojnerio," coffee, etc., amounting to $9,422, on a cap- ital of $96,881. Rivers. — The La Plata, which rises in Cerro-pelado, in Cayey, and its tributaries the Arroyato and Rio-Hondo, besides six brooks. Cidra, founded in 1809, in the east of the department near the centre of the island, north of Cayey, south-east of Sabana del Palmar, east of Barranquitas, and west of Hato-Grande. Population of the district Physical, Political, and Industrial. 185 5,926. Productions— Cofiee, etc., amounting to $23,850, on a capital of $219,944. The forests abound in an&n, capa, oak, pendolo, maria, and many other trees affording fine timber. Rivers. — The Rio-Grande or La Plata, which rises in Cerro-pelado, in Cayey ; its tributary the Ar- royato, and the Bayamon, both rising in the district, and the latter emptying into. the harbor of St. John's. There are also 21 brooks. Cayey, founded in 1774, in the south of the department, inland, north- west of Guayama, south of Cidra, and south-east of Aybonito. Popula- tion of the district 5,201. Productions. — Sugar, coffee, cattle, etc., amounting to $53,435, on a capital of $457,719. The forests abound in cedar, capa, guaraguao, ausubo, and other timber. Rivers. — The Rio- Grande or Cayey, which is the same with the La Plata, which rises in Cerro-pelado, in the district; the Guavate, with the same source; the Carite and Maton, which rise in other mountains in the district and empty into the Rio-Grande, and the Jajome and Lapa, which also orig- inate in the district and empty into the Salinas. There are besides 84 smaller streams. The finest valley landscapes can be viewed from the Cayey mountain, which is traversed by the main road. Salinas* (a port of entry of the second class), founded in 1851, near the south coast, south-west of Cayey, north-east of Santa Isabel de Coamo, and west of Guayama. The population, production, etc., were included by the census in the numbers given for Guayama, of which dis- trict it was a ward until 1852. Productions.— Sugar and coffee in small quantity, etc. Rivers. — The Lapas and Majadas, which rise in Cayey, and the Jueyes, both disemboguing in the sea south of the town ; besides eight brooks and numerous drains. The town and district de- rive their name from the salt-ponds (salinas) south of the former. Tlie Esgiith Department is the island of Vieques, already described. * Salinas is a good place to lie in. There are four or five fathoms anchorage in good ground, and a good watering-place afforded by a kind of lagoon near the water-side. —BlunVs Coast Pilot. STATISTICS OF PORTO RICO. EXPORTATION FROM THE ISLAND OF PORTO RICO. Sugar, Molasses, Coffee, Tobacco, Cotton, Hides, Quintals. Gallons. Quintals. Quintals. Quintals. Quintals. 1828 197,886.. 374,174.. 111,610.. 23,965.. 4,782.. 5,178 1829. 277,154.. 377,443.. 121,870.. 23.771.. 4,820.. 4,191 1830 340,164.. 465,889.. 169,119.. 34,902.. 4,978.. 4,487 1831 307.733. . 823,420. . 104,858. . 49,417. . 4,526. . 4.76S 1S32 346,534.. 1,187.244.. 168,181.. 36,024.. 5,373.. 3,887 1S33 .'. 342,794.. 1,216,770.. 102,862. 49,526.. 8,780.. 4.452 1834 353.722.. 1,171,796.. 182,305.. 40,568.. 5,749.. 5,627 1835 43S.574 . . 1,391,593 . . 72,623 . . 57,151 . . 7,409 . . 6,006 1836 498,889.. 1,724,661.. 52,772.. 49,542.. 19.522.. 8,686 1837* 458,642.. 1,815,062.. 93,453.. 21,042.. 50,037.. 13,359 1S38 691, 3S5.. 3,203,243.. 95,546.. 23,866.. 12,408.. 5,376 1839 692,458.. 3,311,719.. 85,384.. 43,203.. 11,840.. 6,7S6 1840 817,937.. 3,033,034.. 124,501.. 42,274.. 6,212.. 6,074 1S41 ''845,571.. 3,148,755.. 89,218.. 54,067.. 8,180.. 5,440 1842 919,069.. 3,037,725.. 128,789.. 66,939.. 8,821.. 5,670 1843 710,399.. 2,230,115.. 77,563 .. 74,531 .. 3,505 . . 5,097 1844 811,606.. 3,068(870.. 125,017.. 63,587.. 5,239. 6.518 1845 929.044.. 3,742,760.. 67,958.. 75,186.. 4.6S2. 5,772 1S46 877,400. . 3,444.152. . 104.739. . 39,345. . 2,949. 6,89S 1347 1,041,782.. 4,487,021.. 134,664.. 22,706.. 3,623. 6,771 1848 l,0l2,9S7. . 3.867.474. . 96,131. . 24,574. . 1,824. 7,45f 1849 1,007,425.. 4,328,135. v 86,153.. 24,305.. 3,040. 5,191 1850 1,121,294.. 4,905,313.. 117,S37.. 29,733.. 2,415. 5,44", 1851 1.184,163.. 4,S27,400.. 121,119.. 64,781... 3,666. 6,327 1852 937,326. . 3,717,831. . 124,593. . 58,070. . 2,604. 4.619 1853.... 1,156,662.. 4,751,842.. 137,815.. 20,995.. 1,513. *6,636 In 1852. N Hides. To the United States 726,688.. 3,066,564.. 2,206.. -,..-_... 15 " Great Britain, Cowes, etc. 53,218.. 134,604.. 30,534.. 2.180.. — .. — « British North America.. 52,588.. 514.847.. 482.. — .. — .. 45 "Germany 30,549.. — .. 31,139.. 53,758.. 754. 47 " France. 56,329.. — .. 4,000.. — .. — .. — "Genoa and Trieste 2,286.. — .. 27,128.. — .. 970.. 402 " Spain and elsewhere ... . 15,666.. 1,816.. 29,109.. 2,132.. SS0. 4,110 937,324.. 3,717.831.. 124,598.. 53,070.. 2,604.. 4,619 * The returns of 1837 include $643,000 worth of cotton, hides, and coffee re-exported from~ond, the quantities of which are not recorded. Statistics of Porto Rico. 187 EXPORTATION— Continued. Sugar, Molasses, Coffee, Tobacco, Cotton, In 1852. Quintals. Gallons. Quintals. Quintals. Quintals. From St. Johu's 73,162.. 106,233.. 15,153.. 2,062.. — .. " Arecibo 103,659.. 286,9%.. 5,332.. 33,391.. TO.. " Aguadilla 19,001.. 7,680.. 25,222.. 11,663.. 1,011.. " Mayagues 195,201 . . 727,020 . . 58,988 . . — . . 1.523 . . " Ponce 241,519.. 1,071,489.. 17.264.. 6.832.. — '.. " Guayama 203,382.. 1,192,921.. 2,639.. 4,122.. — .. " Humacao, etc 101,400.. 325,526.. — .. —..—.. 937,324.. 3,717,831.. 124,598.. 5S,070.. 2,604.. Hides, No. 2,S20 47 208 1,544 COST OF SUGAR AND MOLASSES. Market Price. Macuquina. $2 50 per 100 lbs. Spanish $2 Round Money. Sterling, s. (I. .Per 112 lbs. Eng. $2 95f or 11 7} 2 75 3 00 3 25 3 50 3 75 4 00 4 25 4 50 4 75 5 00 2 95}. 3 21*. 3 47| . 3 74 . 4 00}. 4 26*". 4 53f. 4 79 . 5 04}. 5 31 . Cents. 3 24 3 53 3 81f 4 lOf 4 394- 4 6S} 4 97 5 26 12 81 13 10 14 llf 16 17 18 19 20 5 54$ " 21 5 S31 Cent.= 22 lOf 8 cents per gallon 14 12 10 gallons per cwt. 141 2 or 5 5 15 17. 16 22. 17 27. 18 32. 19 37. 20 42. 21 27. 22 45. 151 7 162 2 172 7 183 2 193 7 204 2 212 7 224 5 6* llf 6 4| 6 94 7 21 7 n 8 Oi 8 51 8 10* The above calculations are based upon Sterling being at $4 SO Pound money, and Patriot Doubloons at $17 Macuquina each. Note.— The above table corresponds to St. John's, but, with a trifling difference in local charges, may be applied to the other markets in the island. The charges on coffee at Mayagues, which is the chief market for it, is, per 100 lbs. Spanish, about 871- cents in bag;!, and 621 cents in casks, exclusive of commission of 2J per cent, on cost and charges. EXTRACT OF THE TARIFF OF PORTO RICO, FROM NOV. 1st., 1851. Articles and Valuation. — Class 1. — Flour, $12 50 per barrel. Class 2. — Corn meal, $4 per bar., and 16 per pun. ; rye flour, $4 per bar. Clnss 3.— Beans, 3c. per lb. ; beer and ale, $3 per dpz. ; bread, pilot and navy, 6c. per lb. ; candles, tallow, 12c. per lb. ; crackers, biscuit, 71c. per lb. ; dates, 121c per lb. ; figs, 4c. per lb. ; hams, American, 9c. per lb. — other, 15c. per lb. ; herrings, smoked 188 Statistics of Porto Rico. 87c. per 100 ; horses, geldings, $150 each ; mules, $51 each ; oats, l|c. per lb. ; onions, 2c, per lb. ; pepper, black Castile, 12c. per lb. ; prunes, in boxes, 5c. per lb. ; rice, 4|c. per lb. ; raisins, 6c. per lb. ; soap, 10c. per lb. ; wine, common Bordeaux, $28 per cask and $3 50 per box — Marseilles, red, $20 per cask and $3 per box — Cape, Ehine, and Champagne, $8 per doz — Madeira, $3 75 per arroba and $6 50 per doz. Glass 4— Beef, pickled, $9 per bar.; fish, dry, 3c. per lb. ; hoops, wood, $25 per M; hogsheads* $3 each — $9 per 4 nest— $8 per 3 nest ; herrings, pickled, $3 per bar. ; lum- ber, per M ft., pitch pine, $20— white pine, $15 ; mackerel, $4 per bar. ; pork, pickled, $15 per bar. ; shooks, with or without heads, $1 each; staves, rough, $12 per M; sal- mon, pickled, 9c. per lb. ; shingles, $3 per M; truss hoops, $6 per doz. Glass 5. — Apples, $3 per bar. ; empty bags, $2 25 per doz. — do. barrels, 50c. each ; beets, 2c. per lb. ; beef, jerked, United States, 7c. per lb — Buenos Ayres and Brazil, 6c. per lb. — other, 5c. per lb. ; bricks, fire, $16 per M ; butter, 16c. per lb. ; cassia, 25c. per lb. ; cloves, 37ic. per lb. ; cheese, European, 16c. per lb.— other, 10c. per lb. ; candles, sperm, 32c. per lb.— composition, 28c. per lb. ; earthenware, common, in crates, 75c. per foot; lard, 10c. per lb. ; nails, iron, 6c. per lb. ; nuts, 6c. per lb. ; oil, sperm and linseed, 75c. per gal. — fish, 50c. per gal. ; pepper, Guinea, 25c. per lb. — Tobasco, 8c. per lb. ; ploughs, large, $25 each— small, $6 each ; pitch and tar, $3 per bar. ; potatoes, 1^-c. per lb. ; paints in oil, 8c. per lb. ; tallow, 7ic. per lb. ; tongues, smoked, 7c. per lb. ; grind- stones, $1 50 each ; turpentine, oil, 12|c. per gal.— spirits, $1 per gal. Class 6.— Befined sugar, 18c. per lb.— white, unrefined, 9c. per lb. ; cigars, foreign, $3 per M— Cuba, $10 per M ; tobacco, Virginia leaf, 8c. per lb.— chewing, 10c. per lb. —St. Domingo leaf, 12c. per lb.— Cuba, 20c. per lb. Glass 7.— Mineral coal, Eoville ploughs, bark for tanning, horses (stallions), mares, asses, ice, leeches, temper-lime, gold and silver in bars, ingots, and coin. The follow- ing for sugar manufactories : gudgeons— if Spanish, grate-bars, doors, and mouth-plates for furnaces; cogwheels and rollers, iron or copper pans, clarifiers and molasses tanks, iron skimmers and ladles, duplicate pieces for steam and cattle mills. The following if from Spain under Spanish flag: steam sugar-mills, machines for cleaning rice. and cotton, winnowing coffee or shelling corn, stills, manure, seed, and plants. N.B. Foreign steam sugar-mills, manure, plants and seed, stills, and agricultural machines pay 1 per cent, on valuation. , Classes. 1 . Foreign Goods. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Under foreign flag 43^ p. c... 29* p. c... 29 p. c... 23* p. c... 23 p. c. " Spanish " 35* " ... 21* " ... 20 " . . . 17* " ... 16 " « « « from Spain 23* " ... 17* " ... 20 " ... 14* " ... 16 " Spanish Goods. Under foreign flag 33 " ... 19 " ... 15 " ... 15 " ... 12 " » Spanish" 6f "... 6| " ... 7 " ... 6* " ... 7 " Foreign Goods. <■ Sugar. > Unrefined white. Refined -Classi unrennea wniio. lxuuiieu. Under foreign flag , , r ( Cigars $2 per M . .Free « sp an i s h « f 4c. per lb. .. 8c. lb. -j Toba , Qj yirginia leaf, 4c. lb. . . •• « " " from Spain 2c. " ..4c.".. " chewing.... 5c. " .. « Spanish Goods. Under foreign flag 4c. " ..8c.".. " St. Domjn. If. 5c. " . . " « Spanish" 2c. " ..4c.".. " Cuba leaf ... 3c. ". . " Additional 1 per cent, on the amount of duty, except when specific, for '• Balanza." One-fourth of the whole is payable in Spanish gold, at 12J per cent, premium. Im- Statistics of Porto Rico. 189 ports from non-producing ports pay a differential duty of 21 per cent, on valuation, and from the neighboring islands the same under Spanish flag as under foreign. Exports, except timber, are free of duty, and when molasses is an entire cargo, or when vessels clear as they entered, no tonnage dues are exacted; else the charge is one dollar per ton on foreign vessels, and three-eighths of a dollar per ton on Spanish vessels. Ves- sels laden with mineral coal to the extent of their tonnage are subject to tonnage dues of only half a dollar per ton for foreign, and Spanish vessels nothing. Light-house dues of three cents per ton to 150, aud one cent for each in excess, continue to be levied. At Mayagiies there is a local charge of one rial or 12£ cents for each 400 lbs. of wei^h- able imports or exports. EXPORTATION FROM MAYAGUES, PORTO RICO-TOTAL CROPS. r~ — Hogsheads of Sugar , ^-Puncheons Molasses.-, 1847. 1848. 1849. 1S50. 1851. 1847. 1848. 1849 New York 6,620.. 11.039.. 7,072.. 8,241.. 7,039. .:. 2,497. . 3.442. . 3,118 New Haven 47.. 381.. 274.. 813.. 959.... 1,184.. 2^807 1^819 Philadelphia.... 1,828.. 2,127.. 1,343.. 3,024.. 3,489.... 670.. 397.. '639 Baltimore 4,453.. 2,005.. 2,325.. 459.. 2,029..: 585.. 203 §52 Other ports 2,354.. 1,801.. 1,638.. 975.. 2,455.... 946.. 967.. 500 United States.. 15,302.. 17,353.. 12.652.. 13,512.. 15,971.... 5,882.. 7,S1 6 . . ~6~22S British N. Amer. 1,119.. 1,291.. 557.. 1,528.. 3,450.... 343.. 311.. 304 G. Britain, Cowes 4,359.. 3,283.. 3,934.. 4,626.. 5,721.... 2,249.. 1,358 ' 1632 France 2,285.. 1,886.. 755.. 3,158.. 463.... '— '— " '_ Spam — .. _ .. 40.. _ .. 2 8.... — ." — " _ Germany _ .. 331.. — .. 181.. 411.... _ .. _ .. _ Denmark — .. mm mm 741 Genoa and Trieste 239.. 3S5.. 216.. 383..' — .... _ .' 2.'.' — Total 23,304.. 24,029.. 18,154.. 24,129.. 26^044 8,4X4.'. 9^i7. . "^164 Weight of sugar 30,929,751 pounds in 1S51 against 29,114,628 pounds in 1850. EXPORTATION FROM MAYAGVES-Continued. ,— Pehs. Molasses.— , 1850. 1351. 4,324... 2,819... 3,534... 4,401... 659... 339... 27... 339..., 565... 1,003.... 9,109... 8,981.... 322... 1,408... 768... 380.... 10,699... 10,769.... intals of O 1849. 980. 7. 40. 778. 1,805., 36. 1,468.. 2,099., 1.841.. 24,647.. 6,286.. 38,181 . . New Tork New Haven Philadelphia Baltimore 1847. ... 767. 3. 5., .. 1,192., ... 1,967.. .. 5,560.. .. 2,828.. ... 6,252.. .. 39,223.. .. 8,096.. .. 63,926.. 1848. 949. 10. 460., . 114., 327., , 1,860.. 99.. 2,085.. 3,095.. 8,549.. 25,052.. 5,275.. 46,015.. 1850. . 9,505. . 896. . 4,669. . 360. . 2,573 604 Other ports . 13G 65 United States . . . British N. America G. Britain, Cowes . France . 15,430., 36., 3,606.. . 557., 3,759.. 13.477.. 18,314.. 55,179.. . 3,378 . 122 4,455 Spain Germany Denmark . 1,707 2,664 16,238 Genoa and Trieste Total 17,305 •45,S7« 190 Statistics of Porto Rico. CHIEF IMPORTS OF PROVISIONS, ETC., AT MAYAGUES. W. P. lumber., m. ft. 1%%.. 1.087.. I'lOS.. «&... 1,699... 1,078 .. $3 Is* P. P- " .. " 440.. 498. 178... 331... 573... 4 89 1,223... 3 86 ,097... 4,176... 2 43 Hhd. staves.... m. 111.. 621.. 5S5.. 473... 9S3... 540 2 94 " shooks & h'ds 17,404,* 26,537. . 33,312. . 19,191 . . . 16,189. . . 9 257 24^ Wood hoops... m. 527.. 585.. 726.. 46S... 598... 613 6 12* Shingles " 1,506.. 609.. 399.. 28S... 453... 544... 73J- Pork bbls. 543.. 436.. 594.. 649... 304... 646... 3 67* Bf,ef " 162.. 393.. 223.. 148... 223... 104... 2 20 Bryfish quin. 30,792.. 29,663.. 27,177.. 20,401... 28,634... 26.544... 76* Mackerel bbls. 3,112.. 4,125.. 4,254.. 6,163... 5,7ol... 4,453... 98 Herrings " 1,469.. 1,377.. 2,098.. 1,037... 1.178... 906... 76i- Butter kegs. 877.. 947.. 1.232.. 1,124... 1.098 Lard « 4,325.. 3,191.. 3,301.. 3,067 Flour bbls. 9,754.. 7,243.. 7,874.. 7,338... 8,870.. . 11,882.. .' 5 67 Corn mealt .... pun. 873.. 303.. 222.. 333... 3S1... 796... 492 " bb!s. 6,314.. 1,276.. 1,121.. 1,537... 1,067... 2.796... 123 Rlce + quia- 8,168.. 2.243.. 1,039.. 1.890... 1,099... 3,763... 139 Tallow candles . box. 6,086.. 5,276.. 5,094.. 3,695... 3,674... 8,89S . . . 8 62 ' Bread .....*.... blls. 1,445.. 1,128.. 988.. 624... 671... 55S...184 Potatoes " 1.598.. 1,377.. 813.. 1,110... 1,025... 1,144... 39 Onions quin. 1,199.. 1.980.. 651.. 895... 1,817... 1,581... 63 Cheese, Amer. . . box. 5,348 . . 3,402 . . 2,203 . . 1 ,823 . . . 2,079 . . . 3,41 5 . . . 2 43 Hams, " .. 4,446.. 3,391.. 3,703.. 2,714... 3,299... 3.702... 2 75 Manuf. tobacco, pkgs 130.. 375.. 175.. 471... 460... 554... 5 19 Leaftobac, Vir. hhds. 40.. 86.. 26.. 32... 38... 53... 4 14 Note.— Of late years flour has been chiefly supplied by Spain and fish by the British North American provinces, which also provide lumber to some extent. LEGAL VALUE OF FOREIGN COINS, 1st OCTOBER, 1853. Gold. Round Money. Macuanir,a Spanish doubloon.. $16 _ * ~ $17 56J Patriot " .,. 15 50 n _ United States double eagle 19 371 . _ 21 25 French 40 franc piece % qq _ _ 8 33 ^ British sovereign 4 glj 4 90 Silver. Spanish, South America, Mexican, and United States dollar . 1 — 1 i2£ Pesetas Sevillanas 20 . . 2 9 4 French 5 franc piece 95 ^ 6 „ " * " " -19 ...'..'.'.'.'.'. -2H British crown 110 l 23£ " shilling _ 22 — 24f And the aliquot parts in proportion. The above data have been chiefly obtained from the reliable trade-circulars of the highly respectable houses of Latimer & Co., of St. John's, and Latimer, Turull & Co., of May agues. * These duties are on foreign imports under foreign flag, and, with little difference, are the same throughout the island. t The increase of importation of rice and meal in 1852 was in consequence of damage to the native ci ops by a gale in August, 1851.