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BOSTON ILLUSTRATED CONTAINING FULL DESCRIPTIONS OF THE CITY AND ITS IMMEDIATE SUBURBS, ITS PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS, BUSINESS EDIFICES, PARKS AND AVENUES, STATUES, HARBOR AND ISLANDS, ETC., ETC. BACON'S DICTIONARY OF BOSTON. A Dictionary of Boston. By Edwin M. Bacon. New Edition, thoroughly revised. With an Introduction by George E. Ellis, D. D. i vol. crown 8vo. This excellent book has been almost wholly rewritten. It describes fully, minutely, and compactly the Boston of to-day, — its historic buildings and localities ; its note- worthy edifices ; its literary, historical, religious, charitable, and social institutions and organizations ; its system of public schools and other educational facilities ; its important commercial, financial, and manufacturing corporations ; its newspapers, magazines, and publishing interests ; the steam and horse railways which serve the city ; the various steamship lines which run therefrom ; its harbor and the islands contained in it, — in a word, whatever of the organized activity and the external achievement of Boston one wishes to learn, this Dictionary tells ; and the alphabet- ical arrangement makes its wealth of information easily accessible. Mr. Bacon has for many years been conspicuously identified with the press of Bos- ton, and his intimate knowledge of the city and his excellent style render this book at once exceedingly valuable and interesting. It is hardly less useful and desirable for the citizens of Boston than for those who visit the city. *** For sale by Booksellers and Alezusdealers. Sent by mail, post-paid, on receipt of price by the Publishers, HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN AND COMPANY, Boston. r^3 Copyright, 1S72, 1875, 1878, 1883, and 1886, By JAMES R. OSGOOD ^r CO., IIOIUJUTON, OSGOOD & CO., AND HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN & CO. All rights reserved. The Riverside Press, Canibridse : £loctrot}'ped aud Priutod by H. 0. Houghton & Ca PREFATORY NOTE. The text of " Boston Illustrated " has been revised thoroughly for this edition and brought to date, so that the little volume may be depended upon as a trustworthy guide to the city of to-day and a serviceable handbook both for the visitor and the resident. While all the features which have made it popular for so many yeai's have been retained, the work has been freshened, new mate- rial added, and new illustrations introduced. In the preparation of this, as of previous editions, the aim has been to present much information in small compass ; to make a ready reference book as well as a handy pocket guide. Boston, May, 1886. CONTEXTS. PAGE I. A Glance at the History ok Boston 1 II. The North End 12 III. The West End 23 IV. The Central District 69 V. The South End . 108 VI. The Harbor 121 VII. Xew Boston and the Suburbs ...... 129 VIII. A Group of Suburban Rides . . c . . . 153 IX. Practical Xotes. Hotels, Theatres, Horse-Cars, and Harbor Steamers . . . 158 OSTON ILLUSTRATED. I. A GLANCE AT ITS HISTORY. BOSTON was originally " by the Indians called Sliaw- nmtt," but the colonists of 1G30, wandering sontliward from their landing-place at Salem, named it Trimoun- taine. Charlestown, which was occupied by them in July, 1G30, was speedily abandoned because there was found no good spring of water, and the peninsula close by hav- ing- been bought of its sole white inhabitant, Mr. William Blaxton, or Blackstone, an Englishman, who had been living there sevei'al years, the settlement was transferred thither on the 7th of September, O. S. (17th N. S.). On the same day the court held at Charlestown ordered that Trimountaine be called Boston. This name was given to it in memory of Bos- ton in Old England, from which many of the colonists had emigrated, and which was the former home of Mr. Isaac Johnson, next to Governor Wintlu-op the most important man among the baud of immigrants. The name of Trimoun- taine, which has been transformed into Tremont, was peculiarly appropriate. As seen from Charlestown, the peninsula seemed to consist of three high hills, afterwards named Copp's, Beacon, and Fort. And the highest of the three was itself a trimountain, having three sharp little peaks. It seems to be agreed that this peculiarity of Beacon Hill was what gave to the place its ancient name. Soon after selling the land to the new company of immigrants, Mr. Blaxton withdrew to the place which now bears his name, the town of Black- stone, on the border of Rhode Island. His house in Boston stood on the slope of Beacon Hill, near where now are Pinekney Street and Louisburg Square. Boston was selected as the centre and metropolis of the Massachusetts Colony. The nucleus of the Colony was large, and the several towns lying along the coast were, considering the circumstances, rapidly settled. During the year BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 1630 as many as fifteen hundred persons came from England. In ten years not less than twenty thousand had been brought over. In 1639 there was a muster in Boston of the militia of the Colony to the number of a thousand able- bodied and well-armed men. There is authority for the statement that in 1674 there were about fifteen hundred families in the town, and the population of New England was then reckoned at one hundred and twenty thousand. The early his- tory of Boston has been an almost m- exhaustible field for the researches of local antiqua- ries. Considering that almost three quarters of a cen- tiuy elapsed be- fore the first newspaper w a s printed, the ma- terials for making a complete ac- count of the events that oc- curred, and for forming a correct estimate of the habits and mode of life of the peo- ple, are remark- ably abundant. Tlie records have been searched to good purpose. Still it is to \asitors that we are indebted for some of the most quaint and in- teresting pictures of early New England life. An English traveller, named Edward Ward, published in London in 1699 an accomit of liis trip to New England, in which he describes the customs of Bostonians in a lively manner, BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 8 though parts of the story are evidently exaggerated, Mr. Ward thought it a great hardship that " Kissing a Woman in Publick, tho' offer'd as a Courteous Salutation," should be visited with the heavy punishment of whipping for both the offenders. There were even then " stately Edifices, some of which have cost the owners two or three Thousand Pounds sterling," and this fact Mr. Ward rather illogically conceived to prove the truth of two old adages, " That a Fool and his Money is soon parted ; and, Set a Beggar on Horseback he '11 ride to the Devil ; for ihe Fathers of these Men were Tinkers and Peddlers." He 'seemed to have a very low opinion of the religious and moral character of the people. Mr. Daniel Neal, who wrote a book a few years later, found " the conversation in this town as polite as in most of the cities and towns in Eng- land," and he describes the houses, furniture, tables, and dress as being quite as splendid and showy as those of the most considerable tradesmen in London. Hardly a vestige of the town as it appeared to the earliest settlers now re- mains. We have, it is true, in a good state of preservation still, the tlaree most ancient burial-grounds of the town, and a few old buildings ; and some of the narrow and crooked streets at the North End have retained their early devious course, though generally appearing upon the map under changed names. But little else of Boston in its first century is preserved. The face of the country has been completely transformed. The hills have been cut down, and the flats surrounding the peninsula have been filled so that it is a peninsula no longer. The old water line has disappeared completely. On the east, the west, and the south, nearly a thousand acres once covered by the tide have been reclaimed, and are now covered with streets, dwellings, and warehouses. Boston was from the first a commercial town. Less than a year had elapsed since the set- tlement of the town when the first vessel built in the colony was launched. We may infer something in regard to the activity of the foreign and coasting trade from the statement of Mr. Neal, before referred to, that " the masts of ships here, and at proper seasons of the year, make a kind of wood of trees like that we see upon the river of Thames about Wappimj and Limehouse ; " and the same author says that twenty-four thousand tons of shipping were at that time, 1719, cleared annually from the port of Boston. In 1741 there were forty ves- sels upon the stocks at one time in Boston, showing that a quick demand for shipping existed at that period. It was not until four years after the settle- ment of the town that a shop was erected separate from the dwelling of the proprietor. In these early days the merchants of Boston met with many re- verses, and wealth was acquired but slowly in New England generally. Never- theless, the town was on the whole prosperous. At the close of the seventeenth century, Boston was probably the largest and wealthiest town in America, and it has ever since retained its rank among the very first towns on the continent. The colonists Ijrought their minister with them, the Rev. John Wilson, who was ordained pastor of the church in Charlestown, and afterwards of the church in Boston. But the meeting-house was not built until 1632. This building was very small and very plain, within and without. It is believed to have stood BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. nearly on the spot where Brazer's Building now stands, near the Old State House, in State Street. In 1640 the ^^ same society occupied a new, much. z^^lf"^ _ larger and finer building, which stood on the site now occupied by Roger's Building on W a s h i n g t o n Street. This second edifice stood seventy-one years and was destroyed by fire in 1711 ; the third, built on the same spot in 1712, was long known as the " Old Brick Church " and stood until 1808, First Church in Boston when it was taken down; the fourth was on Chauney Place ; and the fifth is the present very elegant church build- ing on Berkeley Street, first occupied in 1868. Several other churches were established very soon after the " First," and there are now in existence as many as eight church organizations dating back to the first hundred years after the place was settled. The fathers of the town were sternly religious, outwardly at all events. The evidences are abun- dant that they were also zealous for education. The influence of Harvard College, in Cambridge, was strong upon Boston from the first; but a public school had been voted by the town in 1635, the year before Harvard was founded. It was in Boston that the first news- paper ever published on the American continent, the "Boston News Letter," appeared on the 24th of April, 1704. Two years later the first great New England journalist, and afterwards a philosopher, statesman, and diplomatist. Birthplace of Benjamin Franklin. was born in a little house that stood near the head of Milk Street, and that i& still remembered by some of the oldest citizens of Boston. It was destroyed by fire at the close of the year 1811, after having stood almost a hundred and twenty years. The office of the " Boston Post " now covers the spot. The liistory of the thirty years preceding the Revolution is full of incidents showing the independent spirit of the inhabitants of Boston, their determination not to submit to the unwarrantable interference of the British government in their affairs and particularly to the unjust taxation imposed upon the Colonies, and their willingness to incur any risks rather than yield to oppression. As early as 1747 there was a riot in Boston, caused by the aggression of British naval officers. Commodore Knowles, being short of men, had impressed sailora BOSTON II^USTRATED. ill the streets of Boston. The people made reprisals by seizing some British offi- cers, and holding them as hostages for the return of their fellow-citizens. The excitement was great, but the affair terminated by the release of the impressed men and the naval officers, the first victory registered to the account of the resisting colonists. Twenty years later the town was greatly agitated over the Stamp Act; and hardly had the excitement died away when, on March 5, 1770, the famous Boston Massacre took place. The story is familiar to every school- boy. The affair originated without any special grievance on either side, but the whole population took the part of the mob against the soldiers, showing what a deep-seated feeling of hostility existed even then. The scene of this massacre was the head of King, now State Street, east side of the Old State House. This building was erected in 1748, on the site occupied by the Town House desti'oyed by fire the year previ- ous, and is one of the few historic struc- tures in the city now remaining. Here for a while the courts of the colony were lield ; it has been the meeting place of the colonial general court and after the Rev- olution of that of the Commonwealth; for a time it was occupied in part as a barrack for British soldiers; in one of the upper halls sat the Provincial Coun- cil, and it was here that Samuel Adams, The old State-House. after the massacre, made his menaoralde and successful demand for the removal of the British regiments from the town. Here the first post office in Boston was established; and the first merchants' exchange; and after the town became a city, it was the first city hall. When the city had no further use for it it was entirely surrendered to business purposes; and in course of time it underwent great changes; the interior was completely remodelled, and an ugly mansard roof was built upon it, wholly destroying the quaint effect of the original archi- tecture. In 1881-82 a movement to restore the building to its original appear- ance was begun, and in the latter year the Bostonian Society secured a lease for ten years of the entire second floor, the attics, and cupola, agreeing to maintain the principal rooms for free public exhibition; while the street floor and basement were rearranged for business purposes as before, the rentals pass- ing to the city to which the property belongs. From the second story upwards the building now appears much as it did dui-ing the colonial period. The win- dows of the upper stories are modelled after the small-paned windows of the earlier times ; the old picturesque pitch-roof has been reproduced ; and on the State Street front, at either end of the building, are copies of the carved figures of the lion and the unicorn, formerly here, but torn down, and with other " tory signs " burned in a bonfire on the day of the first celebration of Ameri- can Independence. Some over-sensitive citizens objecting to the restoration 6 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. of these emblems of royalty, a brightly gilded " bird of freedom " subsequently was placed over the Washington Street front of the building. In the rooms of the second floor, an interesting collection of antiquities is on exhibition, with old portraits and paintings, and sketches of old buildings. The rooms axe open free every day except Sundays and holidays. The fmieral of the victims of the " Boston Massacre," who were bm-ied in the Old Granary Burying-ground, was attended by an inmiense concourse of people from all parts of New England, and the impression made by the conflict upon the patriotic men of that day did not die out until the war of the Revo- lution had begun. The day was celebrated for several years as a memorable anniversary. The destruction of the tea in Boston Harbor was another evidence of the spirit of the people. The ships having " the detested tea " on board arrived the last of November and the first of December, 1773. Having kept watch over the ships to prevent the landing of any of the tea until the 16th of De- cember, and having failed to compel the consignees to send the cargoes back to Eno-land, the people were holding a meeting on the subject on the afternoon of the 16th, when a formal refusal by the Governor of a permit for the vessels to pass the castle without a regidar custom-house clearance was received. The meeting broke up, and the whole assembly followed a party of thirty persons disguised as Indians to Griffin's (now Liverpool) Wharf, where the chests were broken open and their contents emptied into the dock. It has been claimed, though on very doubtful authority, that the plot was concocted in the quaint ._ . _.. _ old building that stood until 1860 on the corner of Dock Square and North (formerly Ann) Street. This building was con- structed of rough- cast in the year 1680, after the great fire of 1679. It was occupied by shopkeepers, and during the latter years of its exist- ence was known as the " old feath- er store." A cut of the building is here given. The people of the town took as Old House in Dock Square. BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. prominent a part in the war when it broke out as they had taken in the preceding events. Tliey suffered in their commerce and in their property by the enforcement of the Boston Port Act, and by the occupation of the town by British soldiers. Their churches and burial-grounds were desecrated by the English troops, and annoyances without number were put upon them, but they remained steadfast through all. General Wasliingion took command of the American army July 3, 1775, in Cambridge, but for many months there was no favorable opportunity for making an attack on Boston. During the winter that followed, the people of Boston endi;red many hardships, but their deliver- ance was near at hand. By a skilful piece of strategy Washington took pos- session of Dorchester Heights during the night of the 4th of March, 1776, where earthworks were immediately thrown up, and in the morning the British found their enemy snugly ensconced in a strong position both for offence and defence. A fortunate storm prevented the execution of General Howe's plan of dislodging the Americans ; and by the 17th of March his situation in Boston had become so critical that an instant evacuation of the town was imperatively necessary. Before noon of that day the whole British fleet was under sail, and General Washington was marching triumphantly into the town. Our sketch shows the heights of Dorchester as they once appeared ; it is quite easy to see from it how completely the position commands the harbor. No attempt view 01 Dorcnester neignts. was made by the British to repossess tlie town. At the close of the war Bos- ton was, if not the first town in the country in point of population, the most influential, and it entered immediately upon a course of prosperity that has continued with very few interruptions to the present time. 8 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. The iii'st and most serious of tlieso intorniptions was that which began with the embargo at the oU>se of the year 1807. ami whieh histeil until the peaee of 1815. Massaehiisetts owned, at the beginning- of that disastrous term of seven jeai'S, one third of the shipping- of the United States. Tlie embargo was a most serious blow to her interests. She did not believe in the constitutionality of the act, nor in its wisdom. The war that followed she judged to be a mis- take, and her discontent was aggravated by the usurpations of the general gov- ernment. Nevertheless, in response to the call for troops she sent more men than any other State, and New England furnished more than all the slave States that were so eager in support of the Administration. In all the pro- ceedings of those eventfid years Boston men were leaders. Again, in the war of the Rebellion, having- been one of the forenu>st com- munities in the opposition to slavery, Boston took a leading part, this time on the popular side. In this war, in which she participateil by furnishing nu-n and means to carry it on at a distance, and in supporting it by the cheering and patriotic words of those who remained at home, her history is that of Massa- chusetts. Boston alone sent into the ai'my and navy uo less thiui 20,119 men, of whom 085 were commissioned officers. Boston retained its town government until 1S'2*2. The subject of changing to the forms of an incorporated city was nmch discussed as early as 1784, but a vote of the town in favor of the change was not carried until .lanuarv, 18'J2, when the citizens declared by a majority of about six thousand tive hundred out of about tifteen thousand votes, their preference for a city govcrnnuMit. The Legislature passed an act incorporating the city in February of the same year, and on the 4th of March the charter was formally accepted. The city government, consisting of a mayor, ^Ir. John Phillips, as chief executive of- ficer, and a city covuunl composed of boards of eight aldermen and forty-eight counuon councibuen, was organized on May 1. During the last half century the eonnuercial importance of Boston has ex- perienced a reasonably steady and constant developnuMit ; the greatest cheek upon her prosperity having been the destructive fire of the 0th and 10th of November, 1872. The industries of New England have in that tinu^ grown to immense proportions, and Boston is now the natural market and distributing- point for the most of them. The increase of population and the still nu>re rapid aggregation of wealth tell the story fai" nu>re effectively than words can do it. In 1700 the population of the town was but 18,038. The combined ])opulation of the three towns of Boston, Roxbury, and Dorchester, at intervals of ten vears, is given in the following table , — \\>.ir. Poimliition. 1810 40,386 18-20 51,097 1830 70,713 1840 107.347 Year. ropulation. 1850 1G3.2U 1860 21-2,746 1870 250.526 1880 308,381 Tilt valuation of real and personal property in the last forty years shows a BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 9 still more notable increase. The oflieial returns at intervals of five years show : — Year. Valuation. 1840 $94,581, COO 1845 i;J5,!)48,7O0 1850 180,000,500 1855 •241,932,200 1800 278,801,000 Vear. Valuation. 1805 $;j7 1,892,775 1870 584,089,400 1875 79;i,90 1,895 J 880 039,462,495 1885 685,404,000 After the annexation to Boston of the city of Charlestown and tlie towns of West Roxbury and Brioliton, the population of the united niunieipality became, by tlie census of 1870, '.^92,499 ; in 1880, accordiujj to the United States Census of that year, it had increased to 362,839. The estimated population in 1885 was fully 400,000. Tlie valuation in 1873 was .'ft;7()5,818,713 ; in 1882, $672,- 497,961. State, city, and county tax rate per $1,000 : 1880, $15.20 ; 1882, $15.10 ; 1883, $17.00 ; 1885, $12.80. The growth of Boston proper has, notwithstanding these very creditable figures, been very seriously retarded by the lack of room for expansion. Un- til the era of railroads it was impracticable for gentlemen doing business in Boston to live far from its corporate limits. Accordingly it was necessary to " make land " by filling the fiats as soon as the; dimensions of tlie peninsula became too contracted for tlu; poimlation and business gathered upon it. Some very old maps show how early this enlargement was commenced ; and liardly any two of these ancient charts agree. During the present century very great progress has been made. All tlie old ponds, coves, and creeks have been filled in, and on the south and southwest the connection with the mainland has been so widened that it is now as broad as the broadest part of the original peninsula. In other respects the improvements have been immense. All the hills have been cut down, and one of them has been entirely removed. The streets which were formerly so narrow and crooked as to give point to the joke that they were laid otit upon the paths made by the cows in going to pas- ture, have been widened, straightened, and graded. Wliole districts covered with buildings of briek and stone have been raised, with tlie structures upon them, many feet. The city has extended its authority over the island, once known as Noddle's Island, now East Boston, which was almost uninhabited and unimproved until its purchase on speculation in 1830 ; over Soutli Bos- ton, once Dorchester Neck, annexed to Boston in 1804 ; and finally, by legis- lative acts and the consent of the citizens, over the ancient municipalities of Roxbury, Dorchester, Charlestown, West Roxbury and Brighton. The orig- inal limits of Boston comprisc^l but 783 acres. By filling in flats, etc., 1,046 acres have been added. By the absorption of South and East Boston and by filling the flats surrounding these districts, 1,838 acres more were acquired. Roxbury contributed 2,700 acres, Dorchester, 5,614, Charlestown, 586, West Roxbury, 7,848, and Brighton, 2,277. The entire present area of the city is therefore about 23,661 acres, — more than thirty times as great as the orig- inal area. Meanwhile, the numerous railroads radiating from Boston and 10 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. reachins;' to almost every village within thirty miles, have rendered it possible for bnsiness men to make their homes far away from their counting-rooms. By this means scores of snburban towns, unequalled in extent and beauty by those surrounding any other great city of the covmtry, have been built up, and the value of property in all the eastern parts of Massachusetts has been very laro-ely enhanced. These towns are most intimately connected with Boston in business and social relations, and in a sense form a part of the city. It is this theorv that has led to the annexation of five suburban municipalities already, and that will undoubtedly lead, at no distant day, to the absorption of others of the surrounding cities and towns. 12 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. II. THE NORTH END. IHE extension of the limits of Boston, and the movement of business and population to the southward, have materially changed the mean- ing attached to the term North End. In the earliest daj^s of the town, the Mill Creek separated a part of the town from the main- land, and all to the north of it was properly called the North End. For our present purpose we include in that division of the city all the territory north of State, Court, and Cambridge Streets. This district is, perhaps, the richest in historical associations of any part of Boston. It was once the most impor- tant part of the town, containing not only the largest warehouses and the pub- lic buildings, but the most aristocratic quarter for dwelling-houses. But this was a long time ago. A large part of the North End proper has been aban- doned by all residents except the poorest classes. Among its important streets may be mentioned Commercial, with its solidly built warehouses, and its great establishments for the sale of grain, sliip-chandlery, fish, and other articles ; Cornhill, once the head-quarters of the book-trade, a remnant of the business still lingering there ; the streets radiating from Dock Square crowded with stores for the sale of cutlery and hardware, meats, wines, groceries, fruit, tin, copper, and iron ware, and other articles of household use ; and Hanover, widened in 1869, and now as formerly a great market for cheap goods of all descriptions. Elsewhere in this district are factories for the production of a •\'ariety of articles, from a match to a tombstone, from a set of furniture to a church bell. There are but a few relics remaining of the North End of the olden time. The streets have been straightened and widened, and many of them go under different names from those first given them, wliile most of tlie ancient build- ings have fallen to decay and been removed. Among such as are still left, the most conspicuous and the most famous is old Faneuil Hall, the " Cradle of Liberty." Tins building was a gift to the town by Mr. Peter Faneuil. For more than twenty years before its erection the need of a public market had been felt, but the town would never vote to build one. In 1740 Mr. Faneuil offered to build a market at his own expense, and give it to the town, if a vote should be passed to accept it, and keep it open under suitable regu- lations. Tliis offer was accepted by the town, after a hot discussion, by a nar- row majority of seven. The building was erected in 1742 ; and only five years later the opposition to the market-house system was so powerful that a vote was carried to close the market. From that time until 1761 the ques- tion whether the market should be open or not was a fruitful source of dis- cord in local politics, each party to the contest scoring several victories. In BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 13 the last-named year Faneuil Hall was destroyed by fire. This seems to have turned the current of popular opinion in favor of the market, for the toynx immediately voted to rebuild it. In 1805 it was enlarged to its present size. From the time the Hall was first built until the adoption of the city charter in 1822, all town meetings were held witliin its walls. In the stirring events that preceded the Revolution it was put to frequent use. The spirited Faneuil Hall and Quincy Market. speeches and resolutions uttered and adopted within it were a most potent agency in exciting the patriotism of all the North American colonists. In every succeeding great crisis in our country's history, thousands of citizens have assembled beneath this roof to listen to tlie patriotic eloquence of their lead- ers and counsellors. The great Hall is peculiarly fitted for popular assemblies. It is seventy-six feet square and twenty-eight feet high, and possesses admi- rable acoustic properties. The floor is left entirely destitute of seats, by which means the capacity of the hall, if not the comfort of audiences, is greatly in- creased. Numerous large and valuable portraits adorn the walls : a copy of the full-length painting of Washington, by Stuart ; another of the donor of the building, Peter Faneuil, by Colonel Henry Sargent ; Healy's great picture of Webster replying to Hayne ; excellent portraits of Samuel Adams and the second President Adams ; of General Warren and Commodore Preble ; of 14 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. Edward Everett, Abraham Lincoln, and John A. Andrew ; and of several others jjrominent in the history of Massachnsetts and the Union. The Hall is never let for mon^y, but it is at the disposal of the people whenever a sufficient number of persons, complying with certain regulations, ask to have it opened. The city charter of Boston, which makes but very few restrictions upon the right of the city government to govern the city in all local affairs, contains a wise provision forbidding the sale or lease of this Hall. The new Faneuil Hall Market, popularly known as Quincy Market, origi- nated in a recommendation by Mayor Quincy in 1823. The corner-stone was laid in April, 1825, and the structure was completed in 1827. The building is five hundred and tliirty-five feet long and fifty feet wide, and is two stories in height. This great market-house was built at a cost of $150,000, upon made land; and so economically were its affairs managed that the improvement, in- cluding the opening of six new streets and the enlargement of a seventh, was accomplished without the levying of any tax, and without any increase of the city's debt. The oldest church building in the city and one of the oldest of the historic burial-grounds are in the older part of the North End district. These are Christ Church, Episcopal, on Salem Street, and the old North Burying-Ground, near by, in what remains of Copp's Hill. Clirist Church was established in 1723, and the present is the first and only building ever occupied by the society. During the Revolution, the rector, the Rev. Mather Byles, Jr., left the town on account of his sympathy with the royal cause. The steeple of this church is a jjrominent landmark. It is, however, but a copy of the original steeple, from which the warning lights were hung on the night of April 18, 1775, which was l»lown dowai in the great gale of October, 1804. The tower contains a fine chime of eight bells, upon which have been rung joyful and mournful peals for more than a century and a quar- ter. The interior of the church is quaint and most interesting. Upon the walls Christ Church, Salem Street. BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 15 are some historic paintings and mnral ornaments ; and the chnrch possesses plate, pulpit bible and service books presented by George II., and other valua- bles. It has a bust of Washington, the first ever made. It has also a rare old clu'istening-bowl. One portion of the gallery was once set apart for slaves. The old North Burying-Ground was the second established in the town. It has for many years been closed against interments, but has been faitlifuUy cared for as a cherished old landmark. Its original limits, when first used for Copp's Hill Burying-Ground. interments in 1660, were much smaller than now. Like most of the remaining relics of the early times, this burial-ground bears traces of the Revolutionary contest. The British soldiers occupied it as a military station, and used to amuse themselves by firing bullets at the gravestones. The marks made in tliis sacrilegious sport may still be discovered by careful examination of the stones. One of these most defaced is that above the grave of Captain Daniel Malcolm, which bears an inscription speaking of him as : "a true son of Libekty a Friend to the Publick an Enemy to oppression and ONE OF the foremost IN OPPOSING THE REVENUE ACTS ON AMERICA." This refers to a bold act of Captain Malcolm, in landing a valuable cargo of wines, in 1768, without paying the duty upon it. The performance was in the night under the guard of bands of men armed with clubs. It would be called smuggling at the present day, but when committed it was deemed a laudable and patriotic act, because the tax was regarded as unjust, oppressive, and illegal. The most noted persons whose bodies repose within this enclosure were undoubt- edly the three Reverend Doctors Mather, — Increase, Cotton, and Samuel; but there are many curious and interesting inscriptions to read, which would 16 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. well repay a visit. The biirying-ground is even now a favorite place of resort in the warmer months, and the gates stand hospitably open to visitors. Stran- gers will find the superintendent courteous and willing to give information re- garding the older gravestones and the most noteworthy graves. It is to the credit of the city, that, when it became necessary in the improvement of this section of the city to cut down Copp's Hill to some extent, the burying-ground was left untouched, and the embankment protected by a high stone-wall. Quite at the other extreme of the North End district is the Massachusetts General Hospital, a structure of imiJosing appearance devoted to most benefi- cent uses. This institution had its origin in a bequest of $5,000 made in 1799, but it was not until 1811 that the Hospital was incorpo- rated. The State endowed it with a fee- simple ui the old Province House, which was s u b s e - quently leased for a term of u i n e t y - u i n e years ; and the Massachusetts Hospital Life Insurance Company was required by its charter to pay one third of its net profits to the Hospital. Large sums of money were raised by private subscription both before the institution had begun operations and every year since. The handsome granite building west of Blossom Street was completed in 1821. In 1846 it was enlarged by the addition of two exten- sive wings, and in 1875 four new jiavilion wards were completed. The stone of the original structure was hammered and fitted by the convicts at the State Prison. Tlie system on which this noble institution is managed is admirable, in that it is so designed as to combine the principles of gratuitous treatment and the payment of their expenses by those who are able to do so. The Hospital turns away none who come Nvithin the scope of its operations, while it has room to receive them, however poor they may be. It has been greatly aided in this work by generous contributions and bequests. The fund permanently invested to furnish free beds amounts to over $ 600,000 ; and the annual contributions for free beds support about 100 at $ 100 each. To all who are able to pay for their board and for medical treatment the charges are in all cases moderate, never exceeding the actual expense. The general fund of the Hospital is about $1,100,000, and the total of restricted funds attains the same amount. The annual income is a quarter of a million dollars, which is usually slightly in ex- The Massachusetts General Hospital. B OS TON ILL US TRA TED. 17 cess of the expenses. These figures are for the Hospital proper and for the McLean Asyhim for the Insane at Somerville, which is a branch of the institu- tion. From 1,800 to 2,000 patients are treated yearly, of whom more than three-fourths pay nothing-. Besides these who are admitted to the Hospital, there are annually from 16,000 to 20,000 out-patients, who receive advice and medicine, or surgical or dental treatment. It will show more clearly how great good is done precisely where it is nuost needed, if we say that three-fourths of the male patients are classed as mechanics, laborers, teamsters, seamen, and servants; and more than half the female patients are seamstresses, operatives, and domestics. Nearly one-half of the patients are foreigners, the natives of Ireland far exceeding those of Massachusetts. In the section of the city which we have included in the North End district four of the eight railroads terminating in Boston have their stations — three of them within a stone's throw of each other, on Causeway Street. Our view represents the stations of the Eastern and Fitchburg Railroads, with a section of the newer Lowell station in the foreground. The Eastern station is an un- pretentious building of brick, erected in 1863, after the destruction by fire of the formei ^^,uvX \\ <\n station. The -dSfeii.\^\ _ ^^ h N^ Eastern Railroad was leased in 1883 for 54 years to the Boston and Maine, and is now the Eastern Division of that Rail- road. In con nection with the Maine Central, its cars run through to Bangor, Me there mak- ing close connection with the St. John, New Brunswick, railroad system. In addition to the ex- tensive through travel thus secured, this Eastern Division of the Boston and Maine Railroad performs an exceedingly large amount of local business for the cities and towns along the coast to Portsmouth, while its North Conway 2 and Fitchburg Railroad Stations. 18 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. division enjoys a large share of the White Mountain travel during the summer and autumn seasons. In 1847 the total num- ber of passengers car- ried on this Une was but 651,408. Over 6,000,000 have been carried in a single year, since 1870. The station of the Fitchbui'g Railroad is represented at the ex- treme right hand of our sketch. It was built in 1847, the ter- minus of the road hav- ing previously been in Charlestown. In a great hall in the upper part of this structure, Lowell Railroad station. t w o grand Concerts were given by Jenny Lind in October, 1850, to audiences numbering on each occasion more than four thou- sand people. The Fitchburg Railroad pass- es through several impor- tant suburban towns, and transacts a n extensive loo and tlu'ou! business. It i^ directly con- nected with the H o o s a c Tuimel and the great t r u n k lines , . Haymarkot Square. west, main- taining the tlu-ough line from Boston to North Adams, under leases of the roads beyond Fitchburg. It has excellent terminal facilities at tide-water. BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 19 The Lowell Railroad possesses one of the finest passenger-stations in the country, as well as one of the largest. It is seven hundred feet long, and has a front of two hundred and five feet on Causeway Street ; the material is face brick with trimmings of Nova Scotia freestone. Tlie arch of the ti'ain-house has a clear span of one hundred and twenty feet without any central support. The head-house contains the offices of the company and very large and conve- nient waiting and other rooms for the accommodation of passengers. The Boston and Lowell line is for all practical purposes united with the great New Hampshire lines ; and over its tracks the cars of the Central Vermont and the Boston, Concord, and Montreal enter the city. The Boston and Maine Railroad, alone of all lines entering the city on the north side, enjoys the privilege of penetrating Avithin the outer street. Its station is in Haymarket Square, and the open space in front of it gives promin- ence to the structure. The Maine road has a large local business. It is also a favorite line to Portland and beyond, as it passes along the Maine coast near the sea-side hotels of Saco. The consolidation of the Boston and Maine and the Eastern roads has already been mentioned (p. 17). Two leading hotels of Boston, the American and the Revere House, are in this part of tlie city. The Amer- ican House, on Hanover Street, is one of the largest hotels i n New Eng- land. Its ex- ternal appear- ance was greatly i m p r o v ed by the widening of Hanover Street. It covers the sites of f oui former hotels, — Earle's, t h Merchants', tht Hanover, and the old Ameri- can Houses Upon a portion of the ground it now occupies, the dwelling of General W a i - 20 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. ren formerly stood. It was rebuilt in 1851, and numerous additions have been made since. Tlie interior has also been completely remodelled within a few years. A large passenger elevator was added to the house when elevators were first introduced. The grand dining-room is capable of seating at one time more than three hundred people ; at either end mammoth mirrors reach from the floor to the ceiling. The American has been under one management for forty years. It is conducted on the American plan. The Revere House is not strictly %vithin the limits of the district we have drawn, but it is separated from that district only by the Avidtli of a single street. It is a building of fine appearance. It was erected by the Massachusetts Char- itable Mechanic Association, and was for a long time under the manage- ment of the veteran, Paran Stevens. It was, of course, named in memory of Paul Revere, the patriotic mechanic of Boston before a n d during the Revolution, and the tirst president of the Charitable Mechanic Association. Col- onel Revere was a companion and fel- Revere House. JoW - WOrkcr W i t h Samuel Adams, James Otis, Joseph AVarren, and others of the leaders of opin- ion in the days of the Stamp and Tea Acts. The versatile colonel appears in the first Directory of Boston, for 1789, as a goldsmith doing business at No. 50 Cornliill, — now Washington Street. Tlie hotel Avhich bears his name has entertained more distinguished men than any other in Boston. The Prince of Wales occupied apartments in the Revere on his visit to the city in 18G0 ; Gen- eral Grant was several times a guest of the house ; and in the winter of 1871 it was the headquarters of the Grand Duke Alexis of Russia. The Revere is situated in Bowdoin Sqiuire. In 1885 the interior was rearranged and the cafe enlarged and decorated. The house is conducted on the American plan. In Brattle Street is another long established and comfortable hotel, — the Quincy House. This also was in 1885 extensively enlarged and modernized. BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 21 Near the Quiney, facing Brattle Square for many years, the famous Brattle Square Church stood. This was long- known as the Manifesto Church, the original members having put fortli in 1699, just before their church was dedi- cated, a document declaring their aims and purposes. While themselves adopting the belief _^ _ which was then uni- versal among the Congregational churches of the time, they conceded the right of differ- ence of belief among the mem- bers. They also abolished the dis- tinction between c h u r c h and con- gregation. Expect- ing a difficulty in getting ordained in Boston, their first minister was or- dained in London. The modest church edifice built in 1699 was taken dowTi in 1772, and the sec- ond building erect- ed on the same spot Brattle Square Church (demolished in 1872.) was dedicated on the 25th of July, 1773. During the Revolution the pastor, who was a jiatriot, was obliged to leave Boston, services were suspended, and the British soldiery used the building as a barrack. A cannon-ball from a bat- tery in Cambridge or from a ship of war in Charles River struck the church ; and this memento of the glorious contest was afterwards built into the external wall of the building, above the porch. Among the long line of eminent clergy- men who have been pastors of this church, may be mentioned the late Edward Everett, and John G. Palfrey. The old church Avas sold in 1871, and the last service was held in it July 30 of that year, a memorial sermon being preaclied on that occasion by the pastor, Rev. Dr. S. K. Lothrop. The ancient pulpit, the old bell, the organ, the historic cannon-ball, and some other mementoes, were reserved at the sale. The society built a new church in the Back Bay district which is noticed elsewhere. Two of the most noticeable, though not the most extensive, of the street improvements of recent years, have taken place within the district we have de- 22 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. fined as the North End. The first was the removal of an nninteresting old structure, a landmark and meeting-place in the Boston of a dozen years ago, known as Scollay's Building, and the creation thereby of what is now called ScoUay Square. This square is the most irregular of triangles. Court Street empties into it in the most curious way possible, and for a time the left side of the street is lost. It is Tremont Row where it ought to be Court Street. Then the right side is similarly lost. Court Street and Sudbury Street being sepa- rated by as invisible a line as is the equator. But finally both parts of the street resume their course after a space where there is no Court Street, until the won- derful avenue loses itself at last in Bowdoin Square. Scollay Square is now a sort of street-railroad centre. Within it is the bronze statue of Governor Winthrop, a duplicate of that standing in the Capitol at Wasliington. It rep- resents Winthrop as he landed in the New World. The right hand holds the colony charter, and the left the volume of the Scriptures. The statue is by Richard S. Greenough. It was put in place in September, 1880. The other improvement is the extension of AYasliington Street to Haymarket Square and the Boston and Maine Railroad Station. The new street was opened in 1874, having cost over 81,500,000, and makes a marked improve- ment in that section of the city. Near its union with the older part of Washington Street it broadens into an irregular triangle, extending towards Faneuil Hall, and bordered on two sides by imposing business blocks of light-colored stone. Tliis triangle is now called Adams Square. In about the centre of it is the Samuel Adams statue from which tlie open space takes its name. This is by Miss Anne Whitney, and was put in place in June, 1880. It represents the patriot as lie is supposed to have appeared after demanding from Hutchinson and his council the removal of the British troops from Bos- ton, after the " Boston Massacre," and awaiting the reply to his demand. Washington Street now makes a straight line from State Street to the Bos- ton and Maine Station, whence it is prolonged by Charlestown Street .to the Charlestown Bridge. Near the meeting-point of Washington and Charlestown Streets is the Roman Catholic Church of St. Mary (on Endicott Street), one of the largest religious edifices in Boston, with a beautiful altar of many-colored marbles. BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 23 III. THE WEST END. fHE AVest End, like the North End, is difficult to define. We have already inclnded in the latter division a part of what is usually termed the West End, and we must now, for convenience' sake, embrace within the limits of the West End a part of the South End. Our division includes all that part of the city south and west of Cam- bridge, Court, and Tremont Streets, to the line of the Boston and Albany Railroad, following the line of that railroad to Brookline. These boundaries take in the whole of Beacon Hill, the Common and Public Garden, and most of the Back Bay new land, which is sometimes called the " New West End." It has already been said that Beacon Hill, the highest in Boston, has been shorn of its original proportions. It is to-day neither very steep nor very high, nor is it easy to convey any intelligible idea of its original character by giving the altitude of its highest point above the level of the sea. The three peaks of the original " Trea Mount " were where Pemberton Square and Lou- isburg Square now are, and the site of the old Reservoir. The hill was cut down in the early years of the present century, and Mount Vernon Street was laid out at that time ; but it was not until 1835 that the hill where Pemberton Square now is was removed, and that Square laid out. Beacon Hill obtained its name from the fact that, for almost a century and a half from the settlement of the town, a tall pole stood upon its summit, surmounted by a skillet filled with tar, to be fired in case it was desired to give an alarm to the surrounding- towns. After the Revolution a monument took its place, which stood until 1811, and was then taken down to make room for improvements. The highest point of the hill in its present shape is occupied by the Massa- chusetts State House, an illustration of which is given on page 30. So prom- inent is its position that it is impossible to make a comprehensive sketch of the city that does not exhibit its glistening dome as the central point of the background. The land on which the State House stands was formerly Gov- ernor Hancock's cow-pasture, and was bought of his heirs by the town and given to the State. The corner-stone was laid by the Freemasons, Paul Re- vere grand master, in 1795, Governor Samuel Adams being present and mak- ing an address on the occasion. It was first occupied by the Legislature in Jan- uary, 1798. In 1853-56 it was enlarged at the rear by an extension northerly to Mount Vernon Street, an improvement which cost considerably more than the entire first cost of the building. In 1866 and 1867 it was very extensively remodelled inside, and in 1874 was again repaired, and the dome was gilded. There are a great many points of interest about the State House. The 24 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. statues of Webster and Mann, on either side of the approach to the bmldins. will attract notice, if not always admiration. Within the Doric Hall, or rotunda, is the fine statne of AVashington, by Chantrey ; here are arranged m an attractive manner, behind glass protectors, the battle-flags borne by Massa- chnsetts soldiers in the war agahist Rebellion ; here are copies of the tomb- stones of the Washington family in Brington Parish, Lngland presented to Senator Simmer by an English nobleman, and by the former to the State ; here is the admirable statne of Governor Andrew ; here are the busts of the patriot hero Samuel Adams, of the martyred President Lincoln, of Senator Sumner, and of Vice-President Wilson ; near by are the tablets taken from the monu- ment iust mentioned which was erected on Beacon Hill after the Revolution to commemorate that contest. Ascending into the Hall of Representatives, we find suspended from the ceiling the ancieut codfish, emblem of the direction taken by Massachusetts industry in the early times. In the Senate Chamber there are also relics of the olden time, and portraits of distmgmshed men. From the cupola, which is always open when the General Court is not in session, is to be obtained one of the finest views of Boston and the neighboring country. A register of the visitors to the cu- pola is kept in a book prepared for the purpose. During the sear- son, which lasts from the 1st of Jime until Christinas, nearly fifty thousand persons ascend the long flights of stairs to obtain this view of Boston and its suburbs, an av- erage of three hundred a day. The statue of Governor Andrew in Doric Hall is one of the most excellent of our portrait statues. It represents the great war gov- ernor as he appeared before care had ploughed its lines in his face. This statue was first unveiled to public view when it was presented to the State on the 14th of Feb- ruary, 1871. It was paid for out of the surplus remaining of the fund raised in 1865 for the erec- tion of a statue to the late Edward Everett. The portrait of Everett The Andrew Statue. HOW iu Faueuil Hall was also pro- BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 25 ctirecl and paid for, and a considerable snni was voted in aid of the equestrian statue of Washington, whieh stands in the Public Garden, from the surplus of this fund. The sculptor was Thomas Ball, a native of Charlestown, but long- resident in Florence, Italy. In 1883 he had a studio in Boston. Tlie marble is of beautiful texture and wliiteness, and the statue is approved botli for its admirable likeness of the emiiu'ut original and for its artistic merits. Thei'e is nothing in Boston of which Bostonians are more truly proud than of the Common. Other cities have larger and more pretentious public grounds ; none of them can boast a park of greater natural beauty, or better suited to the purposes to which it is put. Everything is of the plahiest and homeliest char- acter, the velvety greensward and the over-arching foliage being the sufficient ornaments of the place. There is, however, the Frog Pond, with its fountain, where the boys may sail their miniature ships at their own sweet will ; and there was until 1882 the deer park, a delightful and popular resort for the young- est of the visitors to this noble public space. Here, also, on one of the little hills near the Frog Pond, is the elaborate soldiers' and sailors' monument. All the malls and paths are shaded by fine old trees, which formerly had their names conspicuously labelled upon them, giving an admirable opportunitj^ for the study of what we may call grand l)otany. The history of the Connnon is most interesting. After the territory of Bos- ton was purchased -\.j^^ffii£i^'~JJ!V>'» from Mr. Blaxton by the corporation of colonists who set- tled it, the land was divided among the several inhabitants by the officei-s of the town. A part of it was set off as a training-field and as common ground, subject originally to further division in case such a course should be thought advisable. In 1640 a vote was passed by the town, in con- sequence of a move- ment on the part of certain citizens that was discovered and thwarted none too soon, that, with the exception of " 3 or 4 lotts to make vp y* 26 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. streete from bro Robte Walkers to y° Eoimd Marsh," no more land should be granted out of the Common. It is solely by the power of this vote and the jealousy of the citizens sustaining it that the Common was kept sacred to the uses of the people as a whole from 1640 until the adoption of the city charter, when, by the desire of the citizens, and by the consent of the Legislature, the right to alienate any portion of tlie Common was expressly withheld from the city government. The earliest use to which the Common was put was that of a pasture and a training-field on muster days. The occupation of the Common as a grazing- field continued until the year 1830, but it was by no means wholly given up to that use. As early as 1675 an English traveller, Mr. John Josselyn, published in London an " Account of Two Voyages," in which occurs the following notice of Boston Common : " On the south there is a small but pleasant Common, where the Gallants a little before sunset walk with their il/(»vn a ?e^Madams, as we do in Moorfields, etc., till the nine a clock Bell rings them home to their respec- tive habitations, when presently the Constables walk their rounds to see good orders kept, and to take up loose people." Previous and long subsequent to this the Common was also the usual place for executions. Four persons at least were hanged for witchcraft between 1656 and 1660. Mtu-derers, pirates, deserters, and others were jiut to death under the forms of law upon the Com- mon, until, in 1812, a memorial, signed by a great number of citizens, induced the selectmen to order that no part of the Common should be granted for such a purpose. Those who have studied the history of Boston most closely are of opinion that on more than one occasion a branch of the great Elm, which stood until 1876, was used as the gallows. And near that famous tree was the scene of a lamentable duel, in 17:28, resulting in the death of one of the principals, B. Woodbridge. The level ground east of Charles Street has been used from the very earliest times as a parade-ground. Here take place the annual parade and drum-head election of the Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company, the oldest military organization in the country, and liere the Governor delivers to the newly elected officers their commissions for the year. The original boundary of the Common was quite different from the present. On the west it was bounded by the low lands and flats of the Back Bay ; on the jiorth by Beacon Street to Tremont Street ; thence by an irregular line to West Street ;" and thence to the corner of Boylston and Carver Streets, and upon tJiat line to the water. Upon that part bounded by Park, Beacon, and Tremont Streets were once situated the granary, the almshouse, the workhouse, and the bridewell. In 1733 a way was established across the Common where Park Street (which was formerly called Centry Street) now is. Since the es- tablishment of that street, the land occupied by the institutions above named has been sold for private purposes. Compensation has been made to some ex- tent by the addition of the land in the angle between Tremont and Boylston Streets. The land for the burying-ground was bought by the town in 1756, and that part where the deer park was situated in 1787. On the west a con- BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 27 siderable piece was cut off when Charles Street was laid out, in 1803, but here also there was rather a gain than a loss, since the piece so amputated was en- larged by filling flats, and added to the public grounds. The area of the Com- mon is now forty-eight and a quarter acres. The site of the Old Elm is now partly occupied by two young descendant trees. The Old Elm was certaiidy the old- est known tree in New England. On the great branch broken oft" by the gale of 1860 could be easily counted nearly two hundred rings, carrying the age of that branch back to 1670. It is surmised that the supposed witch, Ann Hibbens, was hanged upon it in 1656, and if so, it could have hardly been less than twenty-six years old, which would make the Old Elm as old as the town of- Bos- ton. A gale in 1832 '^^^ ^^^ ^''^' ^°'^°" Common. caused the tree much injury, and the limbs were restored to their former places after which they were secured by iron bands and bars. The great gale of June, 1860, tore off the largest limb and otherwise mutilated it, and again it was restored as far as was possible, and the cavity filled up and covered. In September, 1809, a high wind that blew down the spires of many churches in Boston and vicinity made havoc with the remaining limbs ; and in 1876 what was left of the venerable tree was blown down. The Frog Pond was, probably, in the early days of Boston, just what its name indicates, — a low, marshy spot, filled with stagnant water, and the abode of the tuneful batrachian. The enterprise of the early inhabitants is credited wdth having transformed it into a real artificial pond. This pond was the scene of the formal introduction of the water of Cochituate Lake into Boston, on the 25th of October, 1848. The water was let on thrcnigh the gate of the fountain, amid the sliouts of the people, the roar of cannon, the hiss of rockets, and the ringing of bells. 28 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. "O The burying-gromul on Boylston Street, formerly known as the South, and later as the Central Burying-ground, is the least interesting of the old ceme- teries of Boston. It was opened in 1756, but the oldest stone, with the excep- tion of one which was removed from some other ground, or wliich perpetuates a manifest error, is dated 1761. The best-known name upon any stone in the graveyard is that of Monsieur Julien, the inventor of the famous soup that bears his name, and the most noted restaurateur of Boston in the last century. His public-house was for many years on the corner of Milk and Congress Streets. He died in 1805, but his famous soup still flourishes. It is probable that this graveyard was early used for the interments of Roman Catholics, and stran- gers dying in the town, whose homes were in distant lands as well as in other parts of the new country. It is a tradition that several of the British soldiers who died from their wounds received at Bunker Hill or from disease, in the barracks, during the siege, were buried here. But there is nothing to indicate tbis, and the statement is Tiie B:Lwei Fountain. questioned. Drake, however, says that they were buried in a common trench, and that years afterward many of the remains were exhumed when changes in the northwest corner of the yard were made. This burying-ground fornunly extended to Boylston Street, and it was contracted to its present dimensions when the Boylston Street mall was laid out in 1839. The portion of the Common occupied by it and the now abandoned deer-park to the east of it, was not ii part of the Common as originally bounded, but was purchased for it in after years. One of the most conspicuous objects on the Common, standing in the lawn near the Park Street wall, is the Brewer fountain, the gift to the city of the late Gardner Brewer, Esq., which began to play for the first time on June 3, 1868. It is a copy, in bronze, of a fountain designed by the French artist Li^nard, executed for the Paris World's Fair of 1855, where it was awarded a gold medal. The great figures at the base represent Neptune and Aniphitrite, Acis and Galatea. The fountain was cast in Paris, and was procured, broiight to this country, and set up at the sole expense of the public-spirited donor. Copies in iron have been made for the cities of Lyons and Bordeaux ; and an exact copy, in bronze, of the foiuitain on the Comnaon was made for Said Pacha, the late Viceroy of Egypt. BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. i9 The Soldiers' aud Sailoi's' Monument, on the liill near the Frog- Pond, was designed by Martin Milmore, and dedicated on September 17th, 1877, when the en- tire militia force of the State paraded in Boston, and was reviewed by the President of the United States. The platform is thirty-eiglit feet square, and rests on a mass of subterranean masonry sixteen feet deep. Four projecting- pedestals sus- tain four bronze statues, each eight feet high, representing Peace, a female figure bearing an olive-branch and looking to the South ; the Sailor, a picturesque mariner carrying a drawn cut- lass, and looking sea- ward; History, a grace- ful female figure, in Greek costume, holding a taV)let and stylus, and looking- upward ; and the Soldier, perhaps the best statue on the monument, representing a Federal infantryman standing at ease, and bearing the face of a citizen-soldier rather than that of a pro- fessional warrior. Be- tween these pedestals are four large bronze reliefs. In the front is " The Departure for the War," with a regiment marching by the State-House steps, the mounted officers, from left to right, being Colonels Lowell and Shaw, both of whom were killed. Colonel Cass, General B. F. Butler, and Quartermaster-Gen. Reed. On the steps are the Revs. Turner Sargent, A. H. Vinton, Phillips Brooks and Arch- Army and Navy Monument, Boston Common. 30 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. bishop Williams ; Governor Andrew, shorter than the others ; Wendell Phil- lips, Mr. Whitmore, the poet Longfellow, and others. The second bas-relief shows the work of the Sanitary Commission, the left-hand gronp being on duty in the field, with the Rev. E. E. Hale at its head; and in the other group the seven gentlemen are E. R. Mudge, A. H. Rice, James Russell Lowell, Rev. Dr. Gannett, George Ticknor, W. W. Clapp, and Marshall P. Wilder (from left State House. to right). "The Return from the War" is the most elaborate of the reliefs, and contains forty figures. The veterans are marching by the State House, and are surrendering their flags to Governor Andrew, while joyful wives and children break the ranks of the regiment. The mounted officers are Generals Bartlett, Underwood, Banks, and Devens (from left to right) ; the civilians are Dr. Reynolds, Governor Andrew, Senator Wilson, Governor Claflin, Mayor Shurtleff, Judge Putnam, Charles Sumner, C. W. Slack, James Redpath, and J. B. Smith. The fourth relief represents the departure of the sailors from home (on the left) and an engagement between a Federal man-of-war and monitor and a massive Confederate fortress. The main shaft of the monument, a Roman-Doric column of wliite granite, rises from the pedestal between the statues; and at its base are four allegorv BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 81 cal figures, in high relief and eight feet high, representing the North, South, East, and West. On top of the capital are foiu- marble eagles. The most j^rominent feature of the monument is the statue of America, eleven feet high, symbolized by a female figure, clad in classic costume, and crowned with thir- teen stars. In one hand she holds the American flag, in the other a drawn sword and wreaths of laurel; and she faces the south. The bronzes were cast at Chicopee, Mass., and at Pliiladelphia; and the stone is wliite granite from Hallowell. The monument bears the following inscrip- tion, written by the President of Harvard College : — TO THE MEN OF BOSTON WHO DIED FOR THEIR COUNTRY ON LAND AND SEA IN THE WAR , WHICH KEPT THE UNION WHOLE DESTROYED SLAVERY AND MAINTAINED THE CONSTITUTION THE GRATEFUL CITY HAS BUILT THIS MONUMENT THAT THEIR EXAMPLE MAY SPEAK TO COMING GENERATIONS. There are very few spots on the Common with which some Bostonian has not a pleasant association. Almost every citizen and visitor has rejoiced in the grate- ful shade of the Tremont Street Mall, or the arch- ing elms of the Beacon Street Mall, on a hot sum- mer's day. But the associations are by no means confined to the mere ex- perience of com- fort beneath the shadow of these wide - spread- ing trees. The inimitable Dr. Holmes has laid the scene of one of the pleasaiitest courtships in liter- ature at the head of one of the malls branching from the one which our B^^.^^ Street Mall. 32 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. view represents. The " Autocrat of the Breakfast-Table " had engaged passage for Liverpool, that he might escape forever from the sight of the fascinating schoolmistress if she turned a deaf ear to his petition. Having thus provided a way of escape, he planned to take a walk with her. "It was on the Common that we were walking. The mall, or bonlevard of onr Common, you know, has varions branches leading from it in different directions. One of these runs down from opposite Joy Sti'eet, southward across the length of the whole Common to Boylston Street. We called it the long path, and were fond of it. " I felt very weak indeed (though of a thoroughly robust habit), as we came opposite the head of this path on that morning. I think I tried to speak twice without making nwself distinctly audible. At last I got out the question, ' Will you take the long path with me V ' ' Certainly,' said the schoolmistress, ' with much pleasure.' ' Think,' I said, ' before you answer; if you take the long path with me now, I shall interpret it that we are to part no more ! ' The schoolmistress stepped back with a sudden movement, as if an arrow had struck her. "One of the long granite blocks used as seats was hard by, the one you may still see close by the Ginko-tree. 'Pray, sit down,' I said. 'No, no,' she answered, softly, 'I will walk the lonr/jicUh with you.' " The history of the Public Garden is shorter and less interesting than that of the Common. Before the improvement of this part of the city was begun, a large part of what is now the Public Garden was covered by the tides, and the rest was known as " the marsh at the foot of the Common." In 1794, the old ropewalks having been burned, the town voted to grant these flats for the erection of new ones. It was not until many years later that the folly BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 33 of this act was seen, — indeed, not until after the construction of the Mill-dam, now the extension of - - Beacon Street, t o Brookline. When the tide had ceased to flow freely o\ei the flats, and the marsh so rashly granted had become dry land, the hold- ers of this property, having once moie lost their ropewalks by fire, in 1819, be- gan to realize its value, and proposed to sell it for busi- ness and dwelling purposes. Charles Street had been laid out in 1803, and this increased the value The Pond, Public Garde of building-lots on the tract, if it could be sold. The Bridge, Public The proposed action was, however, resisted, and finally, in 1824, - the city paid up- wards of $50,000 J to legain what the ' town had, in a fit of generosity, giv- S en away. But for a lone time after t^:f (Ins very little was " done t o ornament I n d improve the Tub lie Garden, llicre was, until ~~' is 59, when an act of the Legislature and a vote of the _ cit} settled the qiies- -- tion finally, a small ^^ brt earnest party in iavor of disposing 34 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. of the entire tract for building purposes. In the last twenty years much has beeil done to make the Public Garden very attractive ; and in recent years especial care has been bestowed upon the arrangement and cultivation of its flower-beds. One of the latest additions to the features of the Garden is its illumination nightly by the electric light. The area of the park is about twenty-four and a quarter acres. The Boyl- ston Street side is longer than the Beacon Street, and the Charles Street longer than the Arlington Street side. The pond in the centre is laboriously irregular in shape, and is wholly artificial. It contains rather less than four acres, and was constructed in 1859, almost immediately after the act of the Legislature relating to the Public Garden had been accepted. The central walk, from Charles to Arlington Streets, crosses this pond by an iron bridge resting on granite piers, erected in 1867. The appearance of unnecessary solidity and strength which this bridge presents gave point to numerous jokes in the news- papers of the day, by one of which it was called the " Bridge of Size." The bridge is certainly strong enough to support an army on the march, and it looks much more substantial than it really is ; but there is very little opportunity for unfavorable criticism of the structure. The title of " Monumental City," so long borne by Baltimore, now belongs more surely to Boston, -vhere public memorials of various forms appear on every side, from the costly erections on Bunker Hill and the Soldiers' Monu- ment, to the statues which are placed upon the squares and public grounds in various sections. So important has this feature become, and so large are the possibilities of its future development, that the Boston Memorial Association lias been formed among the best men of the city, wisely and skillfully to direct and supervise the decoration of the streets, and to protect the interests of the highest art and the best sesthetic culture in this manner. There are several interesting works of art in the Public Garden. The one first placed there was a small but very beautiful statue of Venus Rising from the Sea, which stands near the Ar- lington Street entrance, opposite Commonwealth Avenue. The fountain connected with this statue is so arranged as to throw, when it is playing, a fine spray all about the figure of Venus, producing a remarkably beautiful effect. Further towards Beacon Street stands the mon- ument to " Commemorate the discovery that the inhaling of Ether causes Insensibility to Pain," presented by Thomas Lee, Esq., and dedicated in June, 1868. In the centre of the Beacon Street side stands the statue in bronze of the The Everett Statue. late Edward Everett. The funds for this BOSTON ILL USTRA TED. 35 statue were raised by a public subscription, in 1865. The remarkable success or this subscription has already been referred to. This statue was modelled in Rome by Story, in 18G6, cast in Munich, and presented to the city in Novem- ber, 1867. The orator stands with his head thrown back, and with his right arm extended in the act of making a favorite gesture. But the most conspicuous of all the works of art in the Public Garden is Ball's great equestrian statue of Washington, which stands in the midst of the central path near the Arlington Street main entrance. It is justly re- garded by many as one of the finest, as it is one of the largest, pieces of the kind in America. The movement which resulted in the erection of this monu- ment was begun in the spring of 1859. The earliest contribution to the fund was the proceeds of an oration delivered by the Hon. Robert C. Wiutlu'op in the Music Hall less than a month after the committee was organized. A great fair held in the same place in November of the same year, and an appropria- tion of ten thousand dollars from the city, supplied the greater part of the needful funds, supplemented in 1868 by a contribution of five thousand dollars of the surplus remaining after the erection of the statue of Everett just mentioned. Tht statue was unveiled on tin 3d of July, 1869. It is ,i matter of no little local pridt that all the artists and ait- isans employed in its pro- duction were furnished by Massachusetts. The statue represents Washington at a different period of his life from that usually selecttd by artists, and is all tliL more effective and original on that account. The out- line is graceful, and perfect- ly natui'al from every point of view, and the work re- veals new beauties the more ''^^ Washington statue. it is examined. It was cast in fourteen pieces, but the joints are invisible. The extreme height of the pedestal and statue is thirty-eight feet, the statue itself being twenty-two feet high. The foundation, which rests upon piles, is of solid masonry eleven feet deep. The lamented Governor Andrew was one of the original committee which undertook the direction of this work, but he died before its completion. BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. On the Boylston Street side of the Public Garden is the bronze statue of Charles Sumner, by Thomas Ball, erected in 1878, at a cost of .$15,000. It is nine and a half feet liigh, and the pedes- tal is a massive block of gran- ite. It represents Sumner as standing, in the delivery of an oration, holding a roll of manu- script in the left hand, while the right hand is extended downward in gesture. It has been remarked that the irregular piece of territory bounded by Beacon, Tremont, and Park Streets was origin- ally a part of the Common. AVithin this territory, and close by one of the busiest spots in Boston, is the Old Granary Burying - ground, one of those ancient landmarks which the good sense and good taste of its citizens have thus far pre- served. In 1660 it became necessary to appropriate new space to resting-places for the dead, and the tlu-ifty habits of our forefathers would not suffer them to buy land for the purpose when they were already in possession of a great tract lying in common. Accordingly, in the year before- mentioned, tliis graveyard was established. Two years afterwards, other por- tions of the territory now lost to the Connnon were appropriated for sites for the bridewell, house of correction, almshouse, and public granary. The last- named building, which stood at first near the head of Park Street, and after- wards on the present site of the Park Street meeting-house, gave to the bury- ing-ground the name by which it is so commonly designated. This is, without exception, the most interesting of the old Boston graveyards. Within this lit- tle enclosure lie the remains of some of the most eminent men in the history of Massachusetts and the country. The list includes no less than nine Governors of the Colony and State ; two of the signers of the Declaration of Independence ; Paul Revere, the patriotic mechanic ; Peter Faneuil, the donor of the market- house and hall that bear his name ; Judge Samuel Sewall ; six famous doctors of divinity; the first mayor of Boston; and a great many others of whom every student of American history has read. Upon the front of one of -the tombs, on the side next to Park Street Church, was once a small marble slab with the in- The Sumner Statue. BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 37 scription, " Xo. 10. Tomb of Haxcock ; " but nothing now marks the resting- place of the famous first si<;^ner of the Declaration of Indej^endence, and the first Governor o f Massachusetts un- der the Constitu- tion. In another part of the yard is the grave o f the great Revolution- ary patriot and Gov- ernor of the Com- monwealth, Samuel Adams. Near the Tremont House cor- ner of the burying- ground are the graves of the vic- tims of the Boston Massacre of 1770. The most conspicu- ous monument i s that erected in 1827 over the grave where repose the parents of Benjamin Entrance to the Granary Burying-ground. Franklin ; it contains the epitaph composed by the great man, who, " in filial regard to their memory, placed this stone." Even the briefest reference to the notable persons who lie buried here would extend this sketch undul3\ Tlie stranger \x\\\ find the list with sufficient fullness displayed upon the bronze tab- lets fixed, by order of the city authorities, upon the gates of the main entrance to the yard. For many years a row of stately elms stood along the sidewalk in front of the Old Granary Burying-grouud. They were imported from Eng- land, and after having been for a time in a nursery at Milton, were set out here by Captain Adino Paddock, from whom the mall took its name, in or about 1762, Paddock was a loyalist, and a leader of the party in Boston. He left town with the British troops in 1776, removed to Halifax, and thence went to England ; but upon receiving a government appointment in the Island of Jersey he removed thither, and lived there until his death, in 1804. He was a carriage-builder, and his shop stood opposite the row of trees which he planted and cared for. The elms were carefully protected during the occupa- tion of the towni by the British. Until 1873 their right to cast a grateful shade upon the throng of pedestrians constantly passing and repassing on Tremont Street was respected. But in spite of very strong remonstrances they were in that year cut down. The Park Street church which stands between the Granary Burying-grouud 38 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. and the Common is one of the Park Street Churcn the city for dwelling-houses, ar at No. 5; the Bos- ton headquarters of the publisliing house of Houghton, Mifflin & Company at No. 4, with the editor's room of the Atkntic Monthh the Union Chib, No 8 ; and next the cor- ner of Beacon Street the stately h o n s t long the residence of the late George Ticknor. Our en- graving gives a view of Park Street with the Ticknor mansion and the Union club- house in the foie- ground. The foi- nier was erected leading churches of the Trinitarian Congrega- tional denomination. It was estab- lished in 1809. Its pastors have been able and popular men; among them the Rev. A. L. Stone, and the Rev. W. H. H. Murray, who, after filling the pastorate for more than six years, preached for some - -^ time to an inde- pendent church which he formed in Music Hall. The present pastor of the Park Street Church is the Rev. Dr. J. L. Withrow, formerly of India- napolis. On Park Street, which until recent years was promi- nent among the favorite streets in e the rooms of the New England Woman's Club V e of Pa k St eet BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 39 many years ago, and was used as a residence till 1885, when it was altered over for bnsiness purposes. The original owner erected this and the two adjoining- dwelling-houses on Beacon Street as" a single residence, but the plan was after- wards changed, and Avliat was originally intended for one dwelling-house be- came tliree, all of ample size. Mr. Ticknor bought his estate of the late Har- rison Gray Otis, and began to reside there about the year 1830 ; and it was his Boston home until his death in 1870. The Union Club was founded in the year 1863, for " the encouragenient and dissemination of patriotic sentiment and opinion," and the condition of mem- bership was " unqualified loyalty to the Constitution of the Union of the United States, and unwavering support of the Federal Government in efforts for the suppression of the Rebellion." Its organization is continued to promote social intercourse. The present club-house was formerly the residence of the late Abbott Lawrence. The membership, which is limited to six hundred, in- cludes many of the best and wealthiest citizens of Boston. It has at present, however, no political character, and the condition of membership quoted above has been removed. Directly north of the Granary Burying- Ground is the Tre- niont House, a hotel that has for a long time enjoyed a de- served reputation for the excellence of its accommodations and its cuisine. It occu- pies the corner of Tremont and Beacon Streets, with its main entrance on Tremont. Its front of granite is plain and devoid of ornamentation. 1 1 was built in 1828-29 by a stock company organized for the pur- pose ; but in 1859 it was purchased for the Sears estate, of which it now forms a part. It has been several times enlarged, and was thoroughly renovated and modern- ized during the autumn of 1885. This house received President Johnson as a guest when he visited Boston on the occasion pf the dedication of the Masonic Tremont House. 40 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. Temple in June, 1867. Years before, President Jackson was at one time its guest ; also Henry Clay. And during bis first visit to America Cbarles Dick- ens stayed bere. Tbe bouse is conducted on tbe American plan. The granite front building just beyond, on Beacon Street, occupying tbe cor- ner of Beacon and Somerset Streets, is tbe Vatican of Congregationalism, and contains tbe offices of tbe denominational paper, tbe headquarters and museum of tbe American Boax'd of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, tbe rooms of tbe Congregational Club, Pilgrim Hall, and tbe Congregational Library, a col- lection of over 25,000 volumes and 100,000 pamphlets in a handsome fire-proof ball. This structure was built just after the War of 1812, on the site of tbe first stone bouse in Boston, and was for a long time held by tbe Somerset Club. On Beacon at tbe corner of Bowdoin Street is tbe new Unitarian Building, completed in 1886, a notable addition to tbe denominational bouses of Boston. It is of brown stone ornamented with tasteful carv- ing. The inside is finished through- out plainly in oak. The large balls are finished with ^ ^^ the masonry in ^ ^ sight, and there '^-j are open fireplaces :i|^^~~* in all tbe different departments. To those for whom the sacred quietness and bookish odor of a great library have fascinating attrac- tions this part of Boston is fidl of jierennial interest. The buildings of the Boston Athe- nseuni and tbe New England Historic, Genea- logical Society are in this neighbor- hood ; .and near The Unitarian Building. by, on Tremont BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 41 Street, is that of the Massachusetts Historical Society, described in the chapter on the Central District. The Athenfeum Building is at No. 10a Bea- con Street. It is built of free- stone, in the later Italian style of arclii- tecture. It cost nearly 8200,000, and was first occu- pied in 1849. Within it is a library, now containing over 220,000 volumes ; and a reading- room. The sci- entific library Boston Athenaeum. / of tlie American Academy of Arts and Sciences is also here, in the eastern room of the lower floor. The Athenfeum was incorporated in 1807, and had its ori- gin in a magazine called the " Monthly Anthology," first published in 1803. Soon after, a company of men zealous for literature organized the Anthology Club, and a public library and reading-room established by this club was the nucleus of the present institution. The right to use it is confined to the holders (and their families) of about 1,000 shares ; but the management is very liberal towards strangers. There is an absence of "red tape " in the general direction of the library that makes it one of the most delightful literary homes to be found anywhere. An art gallery used to be a fine feature of the Athenseum, but its contents were removed to the Museum of Fine Arts when that was established. A few large pictures, however, still occupy the walls by the stair- way, and some statuary is in the vestibule. The Historic, Genealogical Society's building is the handsome stone structure at No. 18 Somerset Street. It contains a valuable library of about 16,000 vol- umes, and a rare collection of antiquities. The society was founded in 1844, and has about four hundred members, each of whom, after his election, gives a written account of his descent. Its chief object is the study and publication of historical and genealogical facts about New England and her people ; and the results of its researches have been sent out in a number of goodly tomes. 42 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. The collections here are accessible to all students of history, and are in constant use. The next house to that of the society, on the south, was the birthplace of Rear-Adiniral C. H. Davis, who destroyed the Confederate fleet off Memphis, in 1862. Also on Somerset Street, near Beacon Street, is the new building of the Boston University, a great Methodist institution, founded in 1869, and richly endowed by Isaac Rich, consisting of a group of colleges and schools, attended by both sexes. There are large and successful schools of law, medicine, and theology connected with it, situated in different parts of the city, and a college of liberal arts. The present building was completed in 1882, at a cost of ."JSOjOOO. It is built of pressed brick and terra-cotta. It contains the offices of the president and dean of the University and a meeting-room for the corporation ; large class-rooms, a " young men's study," and a " young ladies' study," — the latter a most inviting apartment, tastefully decorated and agreeably furnished, — a University chapel, and a large hall for public exercises. Tlie buildmg is called " Sleeper Hall," in honor of Jacob Sleeper, one of the founders of the institution. The Law School occupies a separate building near by, at No. 8 Ashburton Place. At the foot of the hill, on Howard Street, near Somerset, is the Howard Athenseum, one of the oldest of the existing theatres in the cMy. It is now a " variety theatre," but in its day it has held a foremost place among the tliea- tres presenting the "legitimate drama." It was first opened October 13, 1845. On its boards the eminent comedian, William Warren, for years at the head of his profession, made his first appearance in Boston, in 1846. The theatre occupies the site of the Tabernacle erected by the " Millerites " in 1843-44. Returning to Beacon Street the stranger will observe on the low fence in front of one of the stately brown-stone houses just beyond the State House a tablet which announces that here once stood the Hancock Mansion, one of the most famous of the old btuMings of Boston that have been compelled to make way for modern improvements. This 1 louse was in itself and in its surround- ings one of the most elegant mansions ni the city, though the style of architec- ture had wholly gone out of fashion long before it was taken down. It was built by Thomas Hancock in 1737, and was inlierited hy Governor John Han- cock. Both uncle and nephew were exceedingly hospitable, and were ac- customed to entertain the Governor and Council and other distinguished guests amiually on " Artillery Election Day ; " and it is said that every Gov- ernor of Massachusetts under the Constitution, until the demolition, was The Old Hancock House. BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 43 entertained once at least within this mansion. The house was taken down in 1863. The Somerset Chib was organized in the year 185 2, having grown out of another organization known as the Tremont Chib, and is now, as it has always been since it took its present name, a club for purelj' social purposes. The membership is lim- ited to six hundred. As has already beeiL stated the Somei'set Club oc- cupied until the year 1872 the mansion at the corner of Somerset and Beacon Streets, now known as the Congre- gational House. At that time the club purchased its present house, a mag- nificent granite - front mansion. This house was built by the late David Sears, Esq., for Beacon street.- The Somerset Club. a private residence. The club found it necessary to make little alteration in the arrangement of the rooms, but it has thoroughly refitted and furnished them, and added other buildings. On the slope of the hill, a short distance below the Somerset Club-house, and nearly opposite the foot of the Common, stands the dwelling-house occupied by Mr. Ticknor's friend, the historian Prescott, during the last fourteen years of his life. It is unpretentious in arcliitecture, but it was fitted within m a style of great elegance, and was arranged specially with reference to Mr. Prescott's infirmity of partial blindness. Here the greater part of the work on his histories of the Spanish conquests was done. To this house he removed, in 1845, from his former home in Bedford Street, and in it he died in 1859. Across the Common, on Boylston Street, which bounds it on the south, is the Boston Public Library, one of the most beneficent institutions that has been conceived by the public-spirited and liberal citizens of Boston. The immense collection constituting this library, which has been gathered rapidly since its establishment, is valuable not only from the variety, excellence, and number of 44 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. volumes it contains, l)ut from its accessibility. It is absolutely open to all, and no assessment, direct or indirect, is leaded upon those who make use of its privileges. Cit- izens and residents of Boston only, however, are al lowed to carry books away from the building. The library is conducted on the most liberal principles. If a purchasable book not in the library is asked for, it is or- dered at once; and the inquirer for it is notified when it i s received. Al- though the idea of a free public library had been entertained much earlier, it was not until 1852 that this institution was actually established. Very soon after the board of trustees was organized, Joshua Bates, Esq., a native of Massachusetts, but at that time of the house of Baring Brothers & Co., of London, gave to the city the sum of fifty thousand dollars, the income of which he desired should be expended in the purchase of books. The upper hall of the library building has been named Bates Hall in compliment to him. Generous donations and bequests by many wealthy and large-hearted men and women from time to time have swelled the permanent fund of the institution to upwards of S 100,000. Several valuable private col- lections have been acquired l)y the library. In 1871 the library of Spanish and Portuguese books and manuscripts belonging to the late George Ticknor, Esq., were placed in the library, in accordance with his Avill. This alone added more than 4,000 volumes and manuscripts to the library. In 1873 the famous Barton Library of New York, numbering about 12,000 volumes, one of the finest private libraries in the country, and especially rich in Shakesperian literatui'e, was purchased. The library of Theodoie Parker, numbering over 11,000 vol- umes, and that of Nathaniel Bowditch of about 2,500, have been added to the general collection, the former received under the will of Mr. Parker and the latter given by Mr. Bowditch's children; and the valuable historical and theo- logical collection, forming the famous Prince Library, bequeathed by Mr Boston Public Library. BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 45 Prince to the Old South, is deposited in the Library and is accessible to schol- ars and others conditionally. Large additions to the general library are made yearly, and it now numbers more than 450,000 volumes, and over 200,000 pam- phlets. The annual circulation amounts to about 1,300,000 separate issues. Thus this library is the first in the country in the number of issues and is su- perior in number of volumes to the Library of Congress. It has been in its present quarters since 1858, and several years ago outgrew the original capac- ity of the building. Various devices have since been resorted to in order to ac- commodate the large number of new volumes added annually. In 1880 land was given by the Commonwealth for a new library building, and this having been formally accepted by the city, a new structure is to be at once erected. The new location will be in the Back Bay district, occupying an entire lot on Boylston and Dartmouth Streets, and Copley Square. Branches of the Boston Public Library have been opened in East and South Boston, the South Yau\ and North End of the city proper, Roxbury, and Dorchester districts, while the libraries of Charlestown and Brighton became branches by annexation. These branches have from ten to twenty-five thousand volumes each. The reading- room in the main or central library building is open every day in the week, in- cluding Sundays. The building adjoining the Public Library building, on the corner of Boyls- ton and Tremont Streets, is the Hotel Pelham, the first apartment house, or " family hotel " on the " French flat" system, erected in the city. This was built about thirty years ago, and since its establislnnent the apartment-house system has been quite extensively introduced into Boston, a large number of costly and elegant apartment houses and family hotels having been erected within recent years. The Hotel Pelham is distinguished in its neighborhood as a building which has been successfully moved several feet without the slightest disturbance to its occupants. When Tremont Street was widened in 1869 this large structure was raised bodily and moved back about twenty feet. A few doors below the Public Library building, on Boylston Street, is the Central Club-house. This club was formerly a South End club, and its first club-house was on the corner of Washington Street and ^^'o^cester Square. Its present quarters were formerly occupied by the Art Club, and were leased after the removal of the latter club to its new club-house in the Back Bay dis- trict, — to be referred to in the description, to follow, of this district. The Central Club was organized in 1869, and its present membership is large. Near by the Central Club-house are those of the Whist and Tavern Clubs, so- cial organizations formed several years ago. In Park Scpiare, just off Boylston Street, nearly opposite the Providence Raili'oad Station, is the group of statuary known as the " Emancipation Group," commemorating the emancipation of the slaves by President Lincoln. The group was designed by Thomas Ball, in 1865. In 1873, a colossal copy of the same group was made for the " Freedmen's Memorial," at Washington. The face of the negro was a likeness of the last slave remanded to the South under 46 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. the fugitive slave law, studied from photographs. The group now in Boston was presented to the city by the Hon. Moses Kimball, a public-spirited citizen, who long lived on Boylston Street nearby. It stands on a small triangular plat, and is surrounded by a granite retaiuing-wall and bronze railing, the pedestal being formed by two steps of Cape-Ann granite, and an octagonal block of polished red granite weighing sixteen tons. The bronze was cast at Munich and cost $17,000. The height of the entire work is nearly twentv- flve feet. It was unveiled December 6, 1879. The station of the Boston and Providence Railroad, although surpassed in size by a few structures of the kind, is inferior to none, in this country at least, in artistic beauty and in adaptability to the uses for which it was designed. It Prov'idence Railroad Station. consists of two distinct but connected parts. The train-house has a length of five hundred and eighty-eight feet and an extreme width of one hundred and thirty feet. The great iron trusses cover five tracks and three platforms. The head-house is two hundred and twelve feet long, and one hundred and fifty feet wide at the widest point, the lot on which it stands being very irregular in shape. In the centre of the head-house is a great marble hall, one hundred and eighty feet long, forty-four broad, and eighty high. It is imposing in its BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 47 general effect and magnificent in its arcliitectural beauty an:l its ornamentation. Surroimding this hall are the waiting and other rooms for the accommodation of passengers, a periodical stand, baggage and package rooms, etc. A restaur- ant of superior character has been recently established in the building. The passenger-rooms have immense maps of the territory served by the road and its connections, and tables of distances, painted on the walls. A barber-shop is attached to the news-room. A fine gallery surrounds the hall above mentioned at a height of twenty-one feet, and from this access is had to the offices of the company and other apartments. The cost of this station was nearly one mil- lion dollars. The Providence Railroad has an excellent local business, serv-ing a great number of the towns in Norfolk and Bristol Comities by its main line and branches ; and it also forms part of the popular Shore (all rail) and Ston- ington (rail and steamboat) lines to New York. In the immediate vicinity of the Providence station is the tract known as the Church Street district, where one of the most beneficial enterprises the city has ever undertaken has been carried out witliin a few years. Tlie district was low, marshy, and unliealthy, but it was covered with permanent buildings. The city undertook to raise the whole district, and tliis it did at an expense of about a million dollars. In the course of this operation nearly three hundred brick buildings were raised, some of them fourteen feet, and the whole territory was filled in to a uniform height. Returning to Boylston Street again, at No. 85, opposite the Public Garden, is the club-house of the St. Botolph Club, one of the latest accessions to the clubs of the city. It includes many of the foremost citizens of Eastern Massachu- setts, and is the leading professional club in the city. It was formed in 1880, and immediately encountered the rigorous denimciation of the stricter clergy and religious press, on account of its failure to renounce the use of wines and liquors. The St. Botolph Club possesses a fine art gallery, and gives private exhibitions occasionally during the season. Francis Parkman, the historian, was the first president of the club. A new Club-house is projected. The filling in of the Back Bay lands, was a great improvement by which hundreds of acres have been added to the territorial extent of Boston and millions of dollars put into the State treasury; and the present elegant Back Bay district created. Private enterprise had already suggested this great im- provement when the State first asserted its right to a part of the flats in 1852. The owners of land fronting on the water had claimed and exercised the right lo fill in to low-water mark. In this way the Neck, south of Dover Street, had been very greatly widened. Commissioners were appointed in 1852 to adjust and decide all questions relating to the rights of claimants of flats, and to de\-ise a plan of improvement. Progress was necessarily slow where so many interests were involved, but at last all disputes were settled, and the filling was begun in good earnest. No appropriation has ever been made for work to be done on the Commonwealth's flats; the bills have been more than paid from the very start hy the sales of land. It was originally intended that 48 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. there should be in the district filled by the State a sheet of water, to be called Silver Lake, but the idea was subsequently abandoned. A very wide avenue was, however, laid out through it, to be in the nature of a park, and the plan has been successfully developed. When completed. Commonwealth Avenue will be a mile and a half in length, with a width of two hundred and forty feet between the houses on each side. Through the centre runs the long park in which rows of trees have been planted, and these will, in time, make this avenue one of the most attractive in the country. There are wide driveways on either side ; and the terms of sale compel the maintenance of an open space between each house and the ample sidewalks. In the centre of the park, near Arling- ton Street, stands the granite statue of Alexander Hamilton, by Dr. William Rimmer, presented to the city in 1865 by Thomas Lee, Esq., who subsequently Commonwealth Avenue. erected, at his own expense, the " Ether Monument " in the Public Garden, before mentioned ; and further down the walk, near Clarendon Street, is the large bronze statue of General John Glover, the commander of the Marblehead marine regiment in the Continental Army. This statue was designed by Mar- tin Milmore and presented to the city by Mr. B. T. Reed, in 1875. Opposite the Vendome is the bronze statue of Wm. Lloyd Garrison, designed by Olin L. Warner of New York. It was placed here in 1886. The funds for its erection were raised by popular subscription. The nomenclature of the streets in this territory is ingenious, and far preferable to the lettering and numbering adopted in other cities. To the north of Commonwealth Avenue is Marlborough Street, and to the south Newbury Street, which names were formerly applied to parts of Washington Street before it was consolidated. The streets running north and south are named alphabetically, alternating three syllables and two, — Ar- lington, Berkeley, Clarendon, Dartmouth, Exeter, Fairfield, Gloucester, Here- ford, and so on. BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 49 Within the limits of this district are many of the finest churches in the city proper, and the movement of the religious societies westward and southward is exhibiting no signs of cessation. Some of the oldest societies in town have already emigrated to the Back Bay, and the nwre ancient parts of the city, whence population has largely removed, are comparatively bare of houses of worship. " The First Church in Boston," Unitarian, properly claims the first attention. Allusion has been made al- ^ %^ ready to the first and second houses of this society, in State a n d W a s h i n g t o n Streets. The present edi- fice on the corner of Marl borough and Berkeley Streets was occupied in December, 1868. This church was built at a cost of two hundred and seventy five thousand dollars, and is one of the most beautiful specimens of architecture in w^t.-s^ Boston. Especially fine aie the carriage-porch and the vestiljule on the Berkeley Street front. The wiiido\\ are all of colored glass, and jrp' were executed in England The organ, which is one of the best in the city, was ^"^'^ Church, Berkeley street. manufactured in Germany by the builders of the Music Hall organ. In every part of the building, within and without, are evidences of excellent taste and judgment, such as can seldom be seen in the churches of this country. The church can seat nearly one thousand persons. On the corner of Boylston and Arlington Streets stands the first church erected on the Back Bay lands of the Commonwealth. This society, like that of tile First Church, is attaclied to the Unitarian denomination. It is, however, tlie successor of the first Presbyterian church gathered in Boston. It was es- tablished in 1727, and its first place of worship was a barn, somewhat trans- formed to adapt it to its new use, at the corner of Berry Street and Long Lane, now Channing and Federal Streets. The second house, on the same site, was erected in 1744, and within it met the Convention that ratified the Consti- tution of the United States on the part of Massachusetts, in 1788. It was from this circumstance that Federal Street received its name. In 1786 the church had become small in numbers, and by a formal vote it renounced the 60 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. Presbyterian form and adopted the Congregational system. Having ocenpied for fifty years the thii-d house on the origuial site, erected in 1809, the soci- ety was compelled, by the invasion of business and the removals of its people, to build the bouse in which it now worships. During the long period of years since the foundation of this famous society, it has had but seven pastors, though there was one interval of ten yeais when it had no regular pastor. The ^. ^r-..- -- most noted of this brief listwas the Rev. Dr. Chan- ning, who was pastor from 1803 untU his death in 1842. The Rev. Ezra S. Gannett was ordained and installed as col- league pastor in 1824, and re- m a i n e d col- league and sole pastor until his me lancholy d e a t h i n Au- gust, 1871, in the terrible ac- cident at Re- vere. Dr. Gan- nett was suc- Arlington Street Church. CCeded by tile Rev. John F. W. Ware, formerly of Baltimore. Mr. Ware dietl in 1881, and in 1882 the Rev. Brooke Herford, then of Chicago, was called to the pulpit. Mr. Herford is the present pastor. The church, on Arlington Street, is built of freestone, and is a fine structure, though less ornate in its architecture than many others. Its tower contains an excellent chime of bells. On Berkeley Street, corner of Newbury, is the Central Church. This society was gathered in 1835 to worship in a hall known as the Odeon, under the name of the Franklin-Street Church. In May, 1841, the corner-stone of a new church was laid on Winter Street, and the edifice having been completed, was dedi- cated on the last day of the same year, the society having a week previously assumed its present name. The transformation of Winter Street into a great centre of retail trade in the course of time compelled the abandonment of the church on this site, and in the autumn of 18G7 the present elegant house, which. BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 51 had been several years in bxiilding, was dedicated. It is constructed of Rox- bury stone with sandstone trimmings, and cost, mcludhig the land, upwards of three hundred and twenty-five thousand dollars. The great gale of September, 1869, blew over one of the piimacles of the spire, which is the tallest in the city, upon the main building, and caused serious damage, which required several months to repair. Tlie interior of this church, notwithstanding an ex- cess of color, is remarkably beautiful. The most impressive and elaborate church building in this district is the Trinity, which fronts on the new Copley Square, and occupies the lot bounded by Clarendon Street, Huntington and St. James Avenues. Trinity parish is an offshoot from the King's Chapel congregation. In 1734 the cornei'-stone of its first church building was laid at the corner of Hawley and Sunmier Streets. In 1735 the building was opened for worship, and some years later the Rev. Addington Davenport became its first rector. The original edifice was of wood, with neither tower nor external ornament. It was a plain barn-like structure, Avith a gambrel roof, and standing gable-end to Summer Street. Inside, however, it was the most elegant church of the day in Boston. General Washington attended service in the old Trinity Church when he was in Boston ill 1789. Tliis church very early became one of the most famous Episcopal churches in Massachusetts. Its rectors were men of remarkable eloquence, and perhaps there have been more bishops appointed from the list of its min- isters and assistant ministers than from any church in the country. In 1828 the old wooden building was taken down, and a handsome granite structure erected on its site. Soon after the Rev. Phillips Brooks became rector of the church, a movement began for a removal to a more eligible situation. All the preliminary steps had been taken when the fire of November, 1872, set- tled the matter irrevocably by destroying the old church. The new Trinity Church was consecrated February 9, 1877, when a proces- sion of three bishops and one hundred and four surpliced clergymen entered the main portal. The cost of the land and building was about S800,000. It is 160 feet long, 120 feet wide at the transepts, the height of the nave being 63 feet, and to the ceiling of the tower 103 feet. The chancel is 57 feet deep and 53 feet wide, and contains rich stained windows, a hi'ass lectern, and a beautiful marble font. The finial on tlie tower is 211 feet from flie ground, and this immense and ponderous square tower is a conspicuous object from many parts of the city and harbor. It is roofed with red tiles from Akron, Ohio, with crockets along the corner slopes. The four sustaining piers are of Westerly granite, five feet square in section, plastered over and painted in deep colors, and resting on four unseen pyramids of blocks of stone weighing from one to four tons each. These are 17 feet high, being 35 feet square at the base and 7 feet at the top, and rest on piles, 2,000 of which were driven closely in the tower space, and bound together with two feet depth of concrete. The walls of the churcli are of reddish Dedham and Westerly granite ashlar, with Long- meadow sandstone trimmings. The shape is that of a Latin cross, with a semi- 52 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. circular apse at the east, and short transepts. It is connected with its chapel hy a handsome cloister. The interior is finished with black waliuit, and is lighted by many brilliant pictured windows. The sexton is present in the church from 9 A.M. to 5 P.M. daily, and may be called at the side-door on Huntington Ave- nue. No visitors are admitted on Saturdays. The frescoes in Trinity Church are by John La Farge and several assistants, and are in encaustic painting, the colors being protected from dampness by a Trinity Church. mixture of wax and other substances. In the great tower he has painted colos- sal figures of David and Moses, Peter and Paul, and Isaiah and Jeremiah, with several scriptural scenes high above ; and in the nave is a fresco of Clu'ist and the Samaritan woman. The style of the construction of the building is a free rendering of the French Romanesque, as seen in the pyramidal-towered churches of Auvergue, and it endeavors to exemplify the grandeur and repose of the eleventh-century architecture in Aquitaine. Among the novelties of this quarter of the citj', something old and venerable amid all its newness and freshness, are the stones from old St. Botolph's Church, in Boston, Lincoln- BOSTON ILL USTRA TED. 53 shire, which the authorities of that church recently sent as a present to Trin- ity Church. Tliese mementoes of the parent society have been appropriately placed amid the sujierb surroundings of the daughter church, in the cloister between the church and chapel. On the corner of Clarendon and Newbury Streets is the uni(piely designed rectory of Trinity Church, the home of the Rev. Phillips Brooks. Another important ecclesiastical establishment is Emmanuel Church, occu- l)ying a handsome stone building on Newbury Street, not far from Trinity Church. This society is eminent for its large contributions for charitable and missionary purposes. It was organized in 1860, and the Rev. Frederick D. Hun- tington, now bishop of Central New York, was its first rector. For several years the late Rev. Dr. Alexander H. Vinton was rector. A memorial-tablet in his honor has lately been erected in the church. It is of bronze, about four feet high and two and a half feet wide. Occupying the greater space is a portrait of heroic size. The space about the head is a biographical inscrijjtion. The tablet was designed by Mr. St. Gaudens. The new Old South Church is near Trinity Churcli, at the corner of Boyls- ton and Dartmouth Streets, fronting 200 feet on the former and 90 feet on the latter. It is a superb edifice of Roxbury a n d ■ Ohio stone and cost nearly $500,000. The form is that of a cross, 90 by 198 feet in area, with 900 sittings ; and the architec- ture is the North- Italian Gothic. The great tower is an imposing struc- ture, 248 feet high, with rich combina- tions o f colored stones and grace- ful windows. An arcade, sheltering inscribed tablets, runs thence to the south transept. The New Old South Church. 54 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. Along the walls is a belt of gray sandstone, delicately carved to represent rincs and fruit, among which animals and birds are seen. The vestibule is paved with red, white, and green marbles, and is separated from the nave by a high carved screen of Caen stone, supported on columns of Lisbon marble and crowned by gables and finials. At the intersection of the arms of the cross the roof opens up mto a lantern, 20 feet square, and covered on the outside by a pointed dome of copper, partly gilded. The effect of the interior, finished in cherry- wood and frescoed, is brilliant rather than solenm. The window back of the pulpit cost S2,500, and represents the amiouncement of Christ's birth to tlie shepherds. The south transept window illustrates the five parables ; that in the north transept, the five miracles; and those in the nave, the prophets and apostles. The organ has 55 stops and 3,240 pipes. There are three fine panels of Venetian mosaic over the heads of the doorways. Galleries were added in 1885. In the rear of the church are the chapel and parsonage. Tlie Second Church occupies a neat bro\nistone edifice, the interior of wliich is strikingly handsome and in admirable taste, on the same square wth Trinity and the Old South. The present pastor is the Rev. E. A. Horton, formerly settled over the old Hmghani parish. The service is beautiful, and is largely choral in its character. The Second Church was anciently known as the Old North Church, and was founded m 1648, on North Square. It was the " Church of the Mathers," the thi-ee venerable doctors, Samuel, Increase, and Cotton Mather, having occupied the piilpit for 65 years of its first century. Ralph Waldo Emerson Avas minister to this society from 1829 to 1832, and was suc- ceeded, in 1833, by the Rev. Chandler Robbms. The stone church on the corner of Commonwealth Avenue and Clarendon Street was built by tlie society of the Brattle Square Church, whose former historic meeting-house with its " cannon-ball breastpin," wliich used to stand in Brattle Sqiuire, has been described. It was completed and dedicated in 1873, but it was not long occupied by the society, which found itself seriously in debt occasioned by the expense of the new structure. For a time the building was closed, and in 1876 the society constituting the Brattle Square Church was dissolved, the members having scattered during the time the church had re- mained closed, or had connected themselves with other societies. In 1881 the property was disposed of at public auction, and about a year later it was pur- chased by the First Baptist Society, the direct descendant of the much-perse- cuted First Baptist vSociety organized in 1665, the doors of whose first meet- ing-house were found one Sunday morning in 1680 nailed up by the marshal, by order of the court. The building is in the form of a Greek cross, with three rose-windows lighting the interior, which is seventy-eight feet high, and sur- mounted by a basilica roof of staine'd ash. The organ is very large and richly colored. The material of the building is Roxbury stone ; and the idea of tlie architect, to definitely express massiveness and solidity, has been well main- tained. The most striking feature is the ponderous square tower, one hundred and seventj-six feet high, which is surrounded (near the top) by a frieze con- BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 55 taining colossal figures in high relief, carved by Italian sculptors, from Bar- tholdi's designs, after the rough stone had been placed in position. The four groups represent the four Christian eras, Baptism, Communion, Marriage, and Death, — one on each face of the tower, — and at the corners of the frieze are colossal statues typifying the Angels of the Judgment, with golden trumpets. The present owners have made extensive alterations iu the interior of the «hurch, and built a new vestry in the rear. The triangular open place in front of Trinity Church had for some years been informally called Art Square, in recognition of the rich treasures of art and architecture surrounding it ; but it is now known as Copley Square. From this point the noble boulevard of Huntington Avenue stretches away to the southwest for over two miles, with a width of one hundred feet, to the inter- section of Tremont and Francis Streets. The new lines of Brookline and Long- wood horse cars run through Tremont and Boylston Streets over this avenue. The Museum of Fine Arts is on Copley Square, near Trinity Church, at the corner of St. James Avenue and Dartmouth Street. It will ultimately be a large pile of buildings enclosing two courts by a double quadrangle. The architecture is Italian Gothic, and the material is brick, with rich and abundant exterior trimmings, mouldings, and roundels in red and buff terra-cotta work. The main front is already finished, and faces Copley Square, with a projecting portico, in tlie (tentre, enriched with polished marble columns. The right wing is adorned with a great bas-relief representing Art receiving the tributes of all nations ; and the left wing supports a companion-piece illustrating the union of Art and Industry. On Saturdays and Sunday afternoons admission to the Mu- seum is free ; and on other days twenty-five cents is charged. Anotlier quarter purchases the two valuable historical and descriptive catalogues, without which it is impossible to adequately understand and fully enjoy the collections, which are probably not inferior to those of any museum in the United States. The ground floor is devoted to statuary, antiquities, etc., the second floor to paint- ings, engravings, productions of industrial art, and bric-k-brac. In the base- ment is the School of Drawing and Painting, conducted by Frederick Crownin- shield and Otto Grundman, and the office of the curator. General Charles G. Loring. In the central hall on the ground floor are statues by Crawford, Rim- nier, Greenough, Hosmer, Monteverde, and others. The Egyptian room con- tains a fine collection of antiquities presented by Charles Granville Way, and the heirs of John Lowell. The other apartments on this floor are filled with casts from the antique, forming the most complete collection in America. There are also many valuable Etruscan, Cypriote and Grseco-Italian vases and other antiquities. Upstairs are the picture galleries, containing a small but ex- cellent collection of paintings owned by the Museum and the Athenseiim, rein- forced by loans. The ten pictures by Dutch and Flemish masters from the San Donato collection are good examples of Teniers, Cuyp, Ruysdael, Metsu, Kalf, Wouwermans, Van Huysum, Netscher, Maas and Vereslst ; there are j)aintings also attributed to Titian, Tintoret, Holbein, and other old masters ; BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. bl unimportant examples of Rubens, Greuze, David, Douw, and others ; portraits by Reynolds, Lawrence, Lely, Stuart, Copley, Newton, Smibert, Allston ; and paintings by Corot, Couture, Millet, Diaz, Fran^ais, Dore, and others. The Gray collection of engravings, belonging to Harvard College, the Sumner en- gravings, the Dowse collection of water colors, the drawings and sculptures by Dr. Rimmer (in the hall), should not be neglected by the visitor. In the ©ther rooms are rich tapestries, ancient carved panels and chests, Japanese and Orien- tal curiosities, rare embroideries, a large collection of porcelain, majolica, and Sevres ware, and all manner of carved ivory and precious stones, mediaeval re- ligious jewelry, medals and vases, ancient weapons, and fine laces. In the third story are series of chromo-lithographs and photographs from drawings by the old masters; All these collections are minutely described in the Museum cata- logues. On the corner of Clai*endon Street and St. James Avenue is a building es- pecially constructed for roller-skating, which has come to be a popular pastime here. It is called the Boston Roller-Skating Rink. It is an attractive build- ing of brick, and the interior is conveniently and agreeably arranged. The skating surface is about one hundred and eighty feet long and seventy feet wide ; and the floor is of smooth yellow-birch. The new Art club building is in the neighborhood of the Museum of Fine Arts, not far from Copley Square, on the corner of Dartmouth and Newbury Streets, with the main entrance on the latter. Its cost was about $80,000. It was determined upon a year before its occupancy, when the club had grown to its full limit of seven hundred members, and the old building on Boylston Street (now occupied by the Central Club) had become altogether too small for the club meetings, while the gallery was entirely inadequate for exhibiting the pictures sent for the semi-annual exhibitions. The rooms of the present club- house are very handsome, some of them elaborately decorated, and all richly furnished. The reading-room fire-place, a magnificent mass of wood carving, is one of the many fine features of the house. The gallery is generous in its proportions, and well lighted. At least two exhibitions are given every year. In this district of the city are several of the many semi-public institutions of the city. On the lot bounded by Berkeley, Newbury, Clarendon, and Boylston Streets stand the buildings of the Boston Society of Natural History, and the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, both institutions connected with the practical education of the people. Nearest to Berkeley Street on the right of our view is the Natural History Society's building. This society was incorpo- rated in 1831. Its early days formed a period of constant struggle for exist- ence, from lack of the necessary funds. But the munificence of several citi- zens, — one of whom. Dr. William J. Walker, gave, during his life and in his will, sums amounting in the aggregate to nearly two hundred thousand dol- lars, — and the grant of the land on which the building stands, by the State, in 1861, have helped to a position of great usefulness. The cabinet of thissoeiety, which is exceedingly rich in very many branches of natural history, is open to 68 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. the public for several hours ou every Weduesday and Saturday. There is also a fine library connected with the institution, and during the season interesting courses of lectures are delivered. Tlie Institute of Technology was founded in 1861 for the purpose of giving instruction in applied science and the industrial arts. It embraces a society of arts, a niuseuni of arts, and schools of industrial science and mechanic arts. The land which its buildings occupy was given by the State, and the Institute receives one third of the grant made by Congress to the States in aid of instruc- tion in agriculture, mechanic arts, and military tactics. The school of industrial science provides ten courses of study, — in mechanical, civil and mining engi- neering, chemistry, geology, building, and architecture, science and literature, natural history, metallurgy, and physics. There is also an elective course. One of the lat- est courses es- tablished t o meet a new de- mand arising from the ex- l^ansion of the telegraph and the introduc- tion of the tele- phone, is that o f electrical e n g i n e e ring. Society of Natural History and Institute of Technology. The Scliool of mechanic arts trains its students to become intelligent and practical mechanics. The Lowell Scliool of Design in which free instruction to both sexes is given in the art of practical design, making patterns for prints, silk, carpets, etc., is un- der the direction of the Institute. The main building of the Institute is a dig- nified structure of pressed brick with free-stone trimmings. The new building, corner of Boylstou and Berkeley Streets, is mainly devoted to the departments of chemistry and physics, for which it is admirably arranged. The mechanic arts shops are in another new building on Huntington Avenue. Huntington Hall, in the main buihling, is the place of meeting of the Society of Arts, and here also the Lowell Institute lectures are given. The gymnasium and drill- hall of the Institute are on Exeter Street. General Francis A. ^^'alker is presi- dent of the Institute. Over 700 students were instructed in the various de- partments in ISS,"). Nearly opposite the main building of the Institute of Technology, on the cor- ner of Berkeley and Boylstou Streets, is the new building of the Young Men's BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 59 Christian Association which was completed in 1883. It is a strnctnre archi- tecturally fine, constructed of brick trimmed with stone. The principal en- trance on Boylston Street is approached by a flight of massive stone steps. The building contains reception, reading, and lecture rooms, parlors, a large hall capable of seating over a thousand persons, and an ample and thoroughly Young Men's Christian Association. New Building. equipped gymnasium. The receptions, lectures, reading rooms, classes, socia- bles, and gymnasium, make this a popular resort for young men. This associa- tion was founded in 1851, and is the oldest of its kind in the country. It was instituted for the special benefit of young men coming to the city as strangers, and designed to provide for them an attractive resort, pleasant companionship, and Christian influences. It has a large membership, and its work is varied and extensive. The Berkeley, a school for both sexes, is in this building. On Boylston Street, between Clarendon and Dartmouth Streets, is the build- ing of the Chauucy-Hall School, the oldest and in some respects most cele- brated private school in Boston. The health of pupils was the first considera- tion in planning this building. The arrangements for heating and ventilating are admirable in every respect. Another point to which special attention has been given is the construction of the school furniture. This was all desisjned 60 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. with sole reference to the health and physical training of the pupils. The desks and chairs were adopted after examination and approval by a committee of surgeons of the highest rank. Equally careful attention has been given to the manner in which light is introduced. The construction of the walls and Hoors makes them substantially fire-proof. The Chauncy-Hall School was founded as long ago as 1828, and was a^ first located in Chauncy Street. Its present building was built and is owned by a stock company consisting of old graduates of the school, many of them now leading citizens of Boston. It receives pupils of both sexes and of all ages. Children of only four years ar« re- ceived and instruct- ed in the kinder- garten, and young men leave the school every year to enter the Insti- tute of Technology or Harvard Col- lege, while special students in various branches come to it from all parts of the Union. This school was the first in Boston to adopt the military drill. Ladd and Dauiell are the principals. One of the finest of the many fine public school build- ings of the city is not far from Chauncy Hall, — on the corner of Newbury and Exe- Chauncy-Haii School. ter Streets. The school located here is called the Prince School, so nauu'd in honor of Ex-Mayor Prince. In this building the rooms are placed on one side of a corridor, in- stead of grouped around a common hall in the centre, like most school build- ings. Thus better ventilation is secured, better light, and a more direct con- nection between the street entrances and the corridors into which the several school-rooms open. Tlie design is a central and two end pavilions, each of two stories only. The front on Newbury Street is one hundred and seventy-four feet. The building is constructed of brick with brown-stone trimmings. It was dedicated on November 11, 1881. BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. ■ '^^ ■ilil -"llilliiiiilili»li!!!!H^ Gl i:\ 62 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. Oil the corner of Boylston and Exeter Streets stands the new building of the Harvard Medical School, completed in 1883. It is a large structure, of brick with red sandstone trimniings, and decorative panels of terra-cotta. It is four stories higli, and its Hat roof is surrounded by a sky-line of stone balustrades and low gables. The niain entrance is on Boylston Street. The interior is ad- mirably arranged for the convenience of instructors and students, and the lec- ture-rooms and laboratories are spacious and thoroughly equipped. The build- ing is practically fij-e-proof throughout. The former quarters of the Harvard Medical School were on North Grove Street, adjoining the Massachusetts Gen- eral Hospital. On the new Huntington Avenue is the great building of the Massachusetts Charitable Mechanic Association for the exhibition of American manufactures and mechanic arts. This association was founded in 1795, and received its in- corporation in 1806. It has been its practice for a long period to hold public exhibitions about every three years, and for many years these were held in Quincy Market and Faneuil Hall, which were connected by a bridge for the occasion. In 1860 the Association erected a fine building on the corner of Chauncy and Bedford Streets, at the cost of ??320,000, which is now occupied in part for business purposes, and by the Merchants' Association. In 1878 a temporary exhibition building was erected in Park Square, opposite the Boston and Providence station, and in 1880-1881 the })resent permanent exhibition building was erected. Here, in the autumn of 1881, the largest and most im- portant exhibition ever held by the Association was given. The building oc- cupies about seven acres on Huntington Avenue and West Newton Street. It is of brick with freestone trimmings and terra-cotta ornaments. An octagonal tower forms the easterly termination, where there are two spacious entrances, one from the carriage porch. The latter is built of brick and stone, with open- timbered and tiled roof. On the Huntington Avenue front are heads of Frank- lin, typifying electricity, and of Oakes Ames, typifying railroading. Span- drels of palm, oak, and olive branches, in which appear the arm and hammer of the seal of the Association, surround these. The " administration building," in which are the offices of the Association, is at the easterly end of the struc- ture ; and across the west end is the general hall. Between this hall and the administration building is the great exhibition hall, surrounded by broad galler- ies ; and below is an ample basement. The general hall, the largest in the city, is frequently let for musical and other entertainments. It has a fine entrance from Huntington Avenue. The first object of the Charitable Mechanic Associ- ation was the application of its annual income to the relief of unfoftunate me- chanics and those who are dependent on them. It has also loaned money to young mechanics and assisted in establishing schools and libraries for the use of apprentices. Among the early presidents of the Association were Paul Revere, who served four years ; Jonathan Hunnewell, nine years ; Benjamin Russell, fourteen years. During the autunm of 1883 an interesting foreign exhibition was given in the present exhibition building. BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 63 iitfflisi 64 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. Passing from Huntington Avenue through Exeter Street to Newbury the new Hollis Street Church and the Eirst Spiritual Temple are reached. The former occupies one corner of these streets, the latter another ; while the Prince Schoolhouse, before mentioned, and the new building for the State Normal Art School occupy the others. The Hollis Street Church organization dates from 1730. Its old meeting-house, built in 1810, part of whose walls are utilized in the Hollis Street Theatre which stands on its site, was historic. Among the pastors of the church have been John Picrpont and Thomas Starr King, men illustrious in New England literature. The present church building was com- pleted in 1884. Of brick with freestone and terra-cotta trimmings, its striking features are the corner tower, the lower part circular and the upper twelve- sided, which rises from the foundations sixty-five feet ; the gabled porch under which the main entrance on Newbury Street is reached ; and the large gables on each fa9ade, with circular turrets. Within, the large audience room is in the form of an amphitheatre. In the basement are lecture and class rooms, parlors, and kitchen. Rev. H. Bernard Carpenter is the present pastor of this church. The brown stone Spiritual Temple is a fine example of the Romanesque style of architecture. Its ornamented facade is especially attractive. The interior, while less striking than the exterior in its finish and decoration, is light and cheerfid, and well arranged. The large audience hall has sittings for 1,500 people, and there are smaller halls, reading room, library, and parlors. The Temple was built as headquarters for the " Working Union of Progressive Spiritualists," and the entire cost, .$250,000, was met by a wealthy merchant, Marcellus J. Ayer. It was completed in 1885. It is the first meeting-house for Spiritualists erected in the city. Returning to Huntington Avenue and passing beyond the Charitable Me- chanic Exhibition building, the Children's Hospital, on the corner of the ave- nue and Camden Street, will be observed. This is in the immediate neighbor-- hood of the great structure erected by the New England Manufacturers' and Mechanics' Institute, an organization chartered in 1879, which gave a se- ries of brilliant industrial exhibitions during its career. The latter is now occupied by the Metropolitan Street Railway Company as a car biulding and repairing house. The Children's Hospital is a noble institution generously supported by benevolent j)eople. It was incorporated in 1809 and fii'st estab- lished in a house on Rutland Street, South End. Its growth was so rapid that it soon moved to a larger house, at No. 1583 Washington Street ; and not long after, these new quarters becoming inadequate, the present location was se- cured and a finely planned building of its own in part constructed. In this institution medical and surgical treatment is furnished children from two to twelve years of age, gratuitously if poor, or at a moderate charge only, if their parents or guardians are able to pay. No chronic or incurable cases, however, are admitted, nor are any affiicted with infectious or contagious diseases. A pleasant convalescent Home at Wellesley is maintained for the reception of BOSTON ILLUSTRATED Qb patients from the hospital during the summer months. A full staff of physi- cians is connected with the institution, and the nursing is directed by the Pro- testant-Episcopal Sisters of St. Margaret. There is a large out-patient de- partment. The structure now standing is only one wing of the Hospital as it will ultimately be when completed according to the original plan. It is thoroughly constructed throughout, and especial care has been taken to secure the best ventilation and the most satisfactory sanitary arrangements. The hotels in the Back Bay section are fine structures in accord with their elegant surroundings. The Hotel Brunswick is at the corner of Boylston and Clarendon Streets. It is an immense six-story brick and sandstone building, Hotel Brunswick. containing .350 rooms. It was built m 1874, and cost nearly $1,000,000. It is sumptuously adorned and furnished inside, having two large dinmg-halls with marble floors and Pompeian walls, and a rich and costly " mediieval parlor." The Brunswick is kept on the American plan. The Hotel Vendome is also an elegant structure, occupying an advantageous position on the corner of Commonwealth Avenue and Dartmouth Street. The avenue front is built of white Tuckahoe marble, and the Dartmouth Street front of Italian marble. The building, including basement and Mansard roof, is eight stories high, and contains three hundred and sixty rooms. The plumbing of the house combines every recent improvement in workmanship and ventila- tion, and no open basins are placed in sleeping-chambers. The partition-walU 5 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 67 are all made of incombustible material ; and the whole structure is practically fire-proof. The main floor contains, besides its larger public rooms, suites of reception-parlors, tear-rooms, and several small private dining-rooms, decorated with artistic effect, and furnished in a luxurious manner. There are two pas- senger elevators in the house, one run by steam and the other by water ; be- sides a lift for baggage. The main entrance is on Commonwealth Avenue, with the ladies' entrance on Dartmouth Street. The house is partly lighted by electric light. The quai'ter to the west of Arluigtou Street and north of Boylston Street contains many interestuig specimens of domestic architecture, in the wide vari- ety of styles for wliich Boston is so famous. The predominant styles are the New (ireek, the French Renaissance, and the English Gotliic. In all this re- gion there are very few shops or stores of any kind. There are, however, sev- eral large apartment-hotels conducted on the French system of suites; among which are the Cluny, on Boylston Street ; the Huntington on Huntmgton Ave- nue, and the Oxford on the same avenue ; the Berkeley and the Kempton, ou Berkeley Street ; the Agassiz, on Commonwealth Avenue ; the Kensington, Boylston corner of Exeter Streets ; and the Tudor, Beacon Hill. Commonwealth Avenue is now finished for nearly a mile, leading in a straight line from the Public Gar- den to West Chester Park, from whence i t will ulti- mately b e prolonged to the intersec- tion of Bea- c o n Street and Brigh- ton A v e - nue, on the Brookline side, deflect- ing from a straight course at the line of the new Back- Bay Park. The ba- sin of the Charles Union Boat-Club. Charles R 68 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. River, enclosed between Beacon and Charles Streets and the bridge to Cam- bridge, has long been a favorite course for boat-racing. Upon it are held the regattas arranged by the city for the entertainment of the people on the Fourth of July, and private regattas at other times. At the head of the course is situated thj Union Boat-Club House, an attractive structure, in the Swiss style of architecture, having a water-frontage of eighty-two feet and command- ing a fine view of the river. The gymnasium, club-committee, dressuig and bathing rooms, are especially adapted to comfort and convenience. The club was organized May 26, 1851, and, with perhaps one exception, is the oldest boating organization in the country. The present building was completed Jidy 3, 1870. The Union introduced on the Charles the style of rowing without a coxswain, and in September, 1853, rowed a race at Hull, in which, for the first time in the United States, the boat was steered over the course by the bow oar. The club was also instrumental in getting up the first wherry race on the river, July 4, 1854, won by the then coxswain of the organization. In 1857, the Un- ions were at the height of theu" glory, and in June of that year won from the " Harvards " the celebrated Beacon cup, one of the most beautiful prizes ever offered in Massachusetts for such a race. Champion cups, colors, oars, and medals are among the trophies of the members, won principally previous to the Rebellion, to which date the supremacy of the Charles was held by the Union. In this neighborhood, on the corner of Mt. Vernon and Brimmer Streets, near the line between the old and new West End, is the church of the Parish of the Advent, Protestant Episcopal, of the High Church school, founded in 1844. It is a picturesque building of brick and stone in the early English style. The architects wei-e Stui-gis and Brigham. It has been occupied by the parish since 1882. For eighteen years previous the parish occupied the church on Bowdoin Street, formerly known as the old Lyman Beecher meeting-house. This is now the Mission Church of the Society of St. John the Evangelist, the brotherhood of priests who purchased it from the Advent parisli after the bat- ter's removal to its new location. It is a free church having no endowments, all its expenses being met by the voluntary offerings of the people. It is under the direction of the Rev. A. C. A. Hall, the superior of the mission. Three services are held daily, and the clergy hear confessions. Of the Church of the Advent the Rev. C. C. (irafton is rector, and the Rev. Edward lienedict assist- ant. The exquisite nuisic is a feature of the services here. There is a finely trained boy choir. There are three services daily throughout the year. Two of the newer clubs, the Puritan and the Algonquin, are established in the West End, one in the old and the other in the new part. The club-house of the former is on Mt. Vernon Street, at the corner of Joy, and that of the latter at No. 104 Marlborough Street. The Algonquins propose to build a new club-house especially constructed for their use. BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 69 IV. THE CENTRAL DISTRICT. ilE come now to a district smaller than either of those that have been described, but much more compact in form, and more crowded with buihliugs, which are at the same time by far the largest, the most elegant, and the most costly that the city can boast. Although in the inmiediate vicinity of the wharves at the North End some branches of whole- sale trade still Hourish, and in the neighborhood of Faneuil Hall there are large establishments for the supply of household stores and furnishing goods of vari- ous descriptions, while there are very few districts in the city which have not retail supply stores of all kinds in their immediate neighborhood, in general, it may be said that the district bounded by State, Court, Tremont, Boylston and Essex Streets is the great business section of the city. State Street is the head- (juarters of bankers and brokers, — the money-centre of the city. Pearl Street was until 1872 the greatest boot and shoe market in the world, and a portion of the trade has returned to the neighborhood, though its centre is on Bedford Street. On Franklin, Chauncy, Summer, Devonshire and neighboring streets are the famous establishments that make Boston the leading market of the country for dry-goods. Boston also stands first among American cities in its receipts and sales of wool, and the dealers in this staple are clustex'ed within the district we have circumscribed. The wholesale merchants in iron, groceries, clothing, paper, in fancy goods and stationery, in books and pictures, in music and musical instruments, in jewelry, in tea, coffee, spices, tobacco, wines and liquors, — in fact, in all the articles that are necessities or luxuries of our mod- ern civilized life, — have still their places of busmess within it. The retail trade, too, is domiciled here, convenient of access to dwellers in the city and shoppers from the suburbs. The army of lawyers is within the district, or just upon its borders. Tlie great transportation and the various express companies have their offices here. The daily papers are also congregated within it, and nearly all the theatres. Much that is interesting in Boston's histoi'y has occurred in this part of the city, but very few of the buildings that are reminders of events long past re- main. Even Fort Hill, one of the historical three, has been wholly removed, and the broad plain where it once stood has been made available for building pur- poses. The earth thus removed was used in carrying forward two other great improvements, — the one to enlarge the facilities for rapid and economical transaction of business, the other to convert a low, swampy, and unhealthy neighborhood into a dry and well-drained district, — the grading of the mar- ginal Atlantic Avenue and the raising of the Suffolk Street district. 70 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. IJSBI5 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 71 The " great fire " of November 9th and 10th, 1872, occurred within this dis- trict. The accompanying sketch gives the most picturesque, while necessarily an inadecjuate idea of the scene of desolation that prevailed over sixty-five acres of territory when the fire had at last been conquered. The fire broke out The Spot wheie the Fire bei^an. at the corner of Summer and Kingston streets, and it did not cease to spread until it had burned twenty hours. It destroyed 77G buildings, of which 709 were of brick or stone and 67 of wood. The valuation of these buildings for purposes of taxation was $ 13,591,300, the true value about $ 18,000,000. The value of personal property destroyed was about $ 60,000,000. Fourteen persons lost their lives in the fire, of whom seven were firemen. The sum of .$ 320,000 was raised in Boston alone, no outside help being accepted, for the relief of dis- tress and poverty caused by the fire. The visible traces of this most disastrous fire are now completely effaced, 72 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. and the buildings in this part of the city are as a whole incomparably more con- venient, commodious, beautiful, and artistic tlian those Avliich preceded them. Let any one, for proof of this, stand at the head of Franklin Street and com- pare its present appearance with the faithfid representation given here of its aspect before the fire. View of Franklin Street as it was before the Fire. Although this Central district is preemuiently the business section of the city, it contains several public and semi-public buildings which perhaps deserve the first attention. And the list should properly be lieaded by the magnificent City Hall, which is one of tlie most imposing specimens of architecture in the city. It was in 1830 that tlie city offices were removed from Faneud Hall to the Old State House, wliich had been remodelled for the purpose. But only a few years elapsed before it became necessary to remove thence. Successive city governments liaving refused to sanction the erection of a siutable City Hall, BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 73 the Old Court House, wluch stood on «, part of the site of the present City Hall, was converted into a city buildmg in 1840, and all the offices of the city were removed thither. In 1850 the ques- tion of making additions to the old City Hall or of erectuig a new one re- appeared in the city council, and after agi- tation of the subject from year to year the necessary orders for a new building were passed in 1862. The sum originally asked for and appropriated was !? 160,000, but the build- ing actually City Hall. cost, before it was occupied, more than half a million dollars. The corner-stone was laid on the 22d of December, 1862, — the anniversary of the landing of the Pilgruns at Plymouth, and the building was completed and dedicated on the 18th of September, 1865. The tablet in the wall back of the first landing- perpetuates in beautifully worked marble the statement that the dedication took place on the 17th of September, the two hundred and thirty-fifth anniversary of the settlement of Boston; but as that day fell that year on Sunday, the cere- mony actually took place on the following day. The style in which this building has been erected is the Italian Renaissance, with modifications and elaborations suggested by modern French architects. The material of the exterior is Concord granite. The Louvre dome, which is surmounted by an American eagle and a flagstaff, is occupied withm by some of the most important offices of the city. Here is the central point of the fire-alarni telegraphs. Most of the officers of the city have commodious and comfortable quarters within the buikling, but it is not large enough for all, and the pressing necessity for more room has been met by hiruig offices outside. 74 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. In the lawn in front of the City Hall stand on one side the bronze statue of Benjamin Franklin, and on the other that of Josiah QuLncy. The Franklin statue was formally inaugurated, with much pomp and ceremony, on the 17th of September, 1856. It origuiated in the suggestion made by the Hon. Robert C. Winthrop, m an address before the Massachusetts Charitable Mechanic As- sociation m 1852. A public subscription to the amount of nearly $20,000 fur- nished the means. The ai'tist was R. S. Greenough, who was born almost within sight of the State House, and all the work from beginning to end was done in the State. The statue is eight feet in height, and stands upon a ped- estal of verd antique marble, resting on a base of Qiiincy granite. In the die are four sunken panels, in wliich are placed bronze medallions, each represent- ing an important event in the life of the great Bostonian to whose memory the statue was raised. This is one of the best public statues in Boston. The statue of Josiah Quincy was unveiled in October, 1879. The sculptor was Thomas Ball, and the means for its erection were drawn from the trust-fund established in 1860 by Hon. Jonathan Phillips, who bequeathed to the city $20,000, " the income from which shall be amiually expended to adorn and em- bellish the streets and public places." From this fund the cost of the Win- throp and Adams monuments, elsewhere described, was also met. The figure is much above life size, and stands on a pedestal of Italian marble ; the height of the whole being eighteen and a half feet. The pedestal was also designed by Ball. The inscription is an epitome of biography, as follows : — JOSIAH QUINCY. 1772-1864. MASSACHUSETTS SENATE, 1804. CONGRESS, 1805-181.3. JUDGE OF MUNICIPAL COURT, 1822. MAYOR OF BOSTON, 1823-1828. PRESIDENT OF HARVARD UNIVERSITY, 1829-1845. The County Court House is back of the City Hall, in Court Square, front- ing on Court Street. It was erected in 1833 and is a substantial but plain and gloomy-looking building, with a massive Doric portico on the front, supported by huge columns of fluted granite. For years there has been a movement for a new court house, the present being dingy and inconvenient, and located in a noisy neighborhood. At length, in 1885, among the several sites suggested for a new structure, that on the north side of Pemberton Square was selected, and practical work begun. The United States Courts, which are now established in the Post Office building, for many years occupied the building at the corner of Tremont Street and Temple Place. This was erected in 1830 by the Free- masons of Massachusetts as a Masonic temple, but was subsequently used as warerooms for Chickering's pianos, and finally purchased by the United States government, by whom it was transformed into the Court House. It was bought in 1885 by the Weld estate, and altered for business purposes, by raising the whole structure and adding two new stories below. The stone church next to BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 75 it, St. Paul's Episcopal, was built in 1819-20, and consecrated the 30th of June the latter year. Its walls are of gray granite, the Ionic columns in front of Potomac sandstone laid in courses. The interior is finely finished. One of the finest of the newer busi- ness build- ings in the Central Dis- trict is that of the Massa- chusetts Hos- pital Life Insurance C o m p a n y, No. 50 State Street, of which we give a view. Another notable pub- lie building in this dis- trict is the United States Post- Office and S u b - Treasury. The land on which it stands cost $ 1,300,000 ; the half of the building first comple- ted, begun in 1869, cost !$2,500,000, and the other half, finished in 1885, cost over $3,000,000. Its ar- chitecture is " Renaissance." The fronts on Post-Office Square and Devon- shire Street are over 200 feet long, and those on Water and Milk Streets nearly as long. The street story is 28 feet high, and its massive piers uphold the two floors above, over which rises an immense iron roof. Four broad and well-lighted corridors parallel with the adjacent streets run around the ground- floor, partly surrounding the great work-room of the office. The Sub-Treasury, in the second story, accessible from Milk Street or Water Street, is a splendid hall, 50 feet high, adorned with rich marbles and other costly trimmings. Massachusetts Hospital Life Insurance Building. 76 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. To the east of the Post-Office is a broad, open place surrounded with fine buiklings, and called Post-Office Square. The facade on the side, which is tlie f The Post-Office. Post-Office Square Front. front of the buildino;, i.s adorned with several towers, on two of which stand sculptured groups, of heroic size, by Daniel C. P^-ench. Facing the building, the left-hand group represents Labor supporting the arts and domestic life ; Labor, a stalwart figure, with his right arm supported liy the horn of the anvil against wliieh lie is leaning. Under his right arm are tlie mother and cliild, and at his left a graceful woman supporting a vase on her knee, while at her feet lie sculptured masks and capitals. The gronp at the right represents the forces of steam and electricity subdned and controlled by Science. Tlie central figure is Science, with her foot resting on a closed volume, — her undiscovered secrets, — and supporting on her left arm a horseshoe magnet with a thunderbolt as an ar- mature. Crouching at her feet is a gigantic slave with riveted cap, and hands chained to a locomotive wheel, while about his feet are clouds of steam and fragments of machinery. At her right is disclosed the Spirit of electricity, from whom she is throwing back her drapery by which he has been veiled, and he stands (on a blazing thunderbolt) ready to dart forth to "put a girdle round the earth," whicli lies at his feet, as soon as he shall receive the message for which he is listening. BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 77 The exterior walls of the Post-Office are of Cape Ann granite, and their substantial character was demonstrated in the " great fire " of 1872. At that tinie only the first half of the building was built. The fire clearing away the buildings on the square beyond that part of the structure, the way was opened for a return to the original plan for the extension, which had been considerably modified on account of the high price demanded for the land and the difficulty of procuring the entire lot. Congress was asked to make an additional appro- priation for the purchase of the remainder of the square, and for the extension of the building over it. This was readily granted on condition that the streets surrounding the building should be so widened as to give additional pi'otection against fire and improve its architectural appearance. Strong opposition to the condition arose from owners of estates whose value, they contended, would be impaired by such street widening, and by other citizens who thought the city was too heavily burdened to undertake such a costly work ; but this was event- ually overcome, the necessary legislation obtained, and the appropriation se- eded. Then further difficulty was met when the owners were asked to set a price upon their land. The courts were appealed to, and even the government was appalled at the price awarded. Finally, however, by dint of skillful ne- gotiations, all obstacles were cleared away, the entire lot acquired, and the work upon the extension proceeded. This. was begun in the fall of 1875, and completed, as already stated, in 1885. The Boston Post-Office has been a migratory institution for a long time. During tlie siege of Boston it was removed to Cambridge, but was brought back again after the evacuation of the town by the British. In the one hundred years preceding its establishment in its own building it had been removed at least ten times. For the eleven years immediately preceding the fire it was in the Merchants' Exchange Building in State Street, that being its third occupa- tion of those quarters. After the fire it was temporarily in Faneuil ?Iall, and later in the Old South Church, from which it removed to the present biulding. The Custom-Ilonse stands on Broad Street corner of State. It was begun in 1837, two years after it had been authorized by Congress, and was ten years in building. It is in the form of a Greek cross, and the exterior is in the pure Doric style of architecture. The walls, columns, and even the entire roof, are of granite. The massive columns, which entirely sui'round the building, are thirty-two in number. Each of them is five feet two inches in diameter and thirty-two feet high, and weighs about forty-two tons. The building rests upon three thousand piles. It is supposed to be entirely fireproof. It cost upwards of a million dollars, including the site and the foundations. The interior was thoroughly renovated during the term of Collector Beard, who served from the spring of 1878 to May, 1882, when he was succeeded by Roland Worthing- ton, of "The Traveller." Leverett Saltonstall is the present collector, ap- pointed November, 1885. Beyond the Custom-IIouse, at the foot of State Street, is Long Wharf, which was built about the year 1710, and first bore tlie name of Boston Piei*. The 78 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. Abbe Robin described it as " a superb wharf advancing nearly two thousand feet into the sea, wide enough along its whole length for stores and shops." It was lined with warehouses, and at the end was a bat- tery of heavy guns. In 1673 a long pier called the Barri- cado was built from the North Battery at Copp's Hill to the South Battery at Fort Hill, wifii several openings to admit vessels. This work enclosed the Town Cove, in which the shipping lay, and was de- signed to prevent an attack by the Dutch or the French. Having no commercial value, when the danger of inva- sion was over it was allowed to decay, and the site is now occupied by the broad Atlantic Avenue. Two of the oldest church-buildings in the city are left within the limits of the Central District, surrounded by business structures, only one of them oc- cupied as a house of worship. The Old South Society, whose new edifice is de- scribed elsewhere, was the third Congregational Society in Boston, and was or- ganized in 1669, in consequence of a curious theological quarrel in the First Church. The first Old South meeting-house, erected in 1669, on the corner of what are now Washington and Milk streets, stood for sixty years. It was of cedar, and had a steeple. It was taken down in 1729, when the present build- ing was erected on the same spot. This now historic meeting-house is perhaps the most noted church edifice in the United States. It is internally quamt and interesting, although the old pulpit and the high box-pews have been removed, and the double tier of picturesque galleries are partly overlaid with portraits and other antiques from the historic families of New England. But a tablet which stands above the entrance on the Washington Street side of the tower gives concisely the main facts. The Old South is frequently mentioned on the pages devoted to the history of Boston before and during the Revolution. When the meetings of citizens became too large to be accommodated in Faneuil Hall, Custom-House. BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 79 then much smaller than now, they adjourned to this church. Here Joseph Warren stood and delivered his fearless oration, on the anniversary of the massacre of March 5, 1770, in defiance of the threats of those in authority, and in the presence of a marshalled sol- diery. Here vi^ere held the series of meetings that culminated in the de- struction of the detested tea, on which the determined colonists would pay no tax. In 1775, the British soldiers oc- cupied this meeting-house as a riding- school, and place for cavalry drill. They established a grog-shop in the lower gallery, which they partially preserved for spectators of their sport. The rest of the galleries were torn down, and the whole interior was stripped of its woodwork. The floor they covered with about two feet of dirt. In 1782 the building was thor- oughly repaired and put in very much its late condition. The first Election sermon was delivered in the Old South Church in 1712, and the ancient cus- tom was observed up to the year 1872. In 1876 the Old South Society sold the church, to be torn down and re- Old South Churcn before the Fire. placed by commercial buildings. But certain Bostonians, loath to see such a sacrilege, bought the ancient edifice, and the land on which it stood, for about $430,000, a large portion of which has been raised and paid, by private efforts. The church is now a loan museum of curious liistorical relics. Revolution- ary weapons, flags, quaint old furniture, portraits of the New England fathers, and other interesting objects. It is open daily, and the entrance-fees go to- ward the preservation-fund. The Province House was on Washington Street near the Old South, nearly opposite tlie head of Milk Street, and had a handsome lawn in front, embel- lished with oak-trees. It was a dignified brick building three stories high, with a long flight of stone steps leading up to a portico, from which the viceroys used to address the people. The edifice was erected in 1679, and in 1715 was bouglit by the Province as a residence for its governors, being well fitted there- for by the size and splendor of its interior and the agreeableness of its sur- roundings. Here Shute, Burnet, Shirley, Pownall, Bernard, Gage, and Sir William Howe held their vice-regal courts. After the siege of Boston the building was occupied by State offices, and in 1811 it was given in endowment to the Massachusetts General Hospital, whose trustees leased the estate to 80 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. David Greenough for ninety-nine years. The new lessee erected a block of stores in front, and the Province House idtiniately became a negro-niinstrel hall. In 1864 it was burned, and only the walls were left standing-, which are now covered with mastic, and serve as the exterior of a new structure. The old Province House was charmingly described by Hawthorne, in his " Twice- Told Tales." The land along Washington Street, between Milk Street and Spring Lane, belonged originally to John Winthrop, who built his hovise thereon, in order to be conveniently near the spring of clear water from which Spring Lane derives its name. In the winter of 1775 Winthrop's house was pulled down by the British troops, to be burnt at their camp-fires. Under its thatched roof the governor often entertained the envoys and chiefs of tlie adjacent Indian tribes, and conciliated them by diplomatic feasts. The remains of the Puritan saint are in the King's Chapel Cemetery ; his statue (by Greenough) is at Mount Auburn, a duplicate of which stands in ScoUay Square, Boston. His estate on Washington Street was bequeathed by Madam Norton to the Old South Church, which is the richest in the country, except Trinity Church in New York. His descendants are f:till living in honorable station. King's Chapel, standing at the corner of School and Tremont Streets, also has its history, hardly less interesting than that of the Old Soixth. It is, as is well known, the successor of the first Episcopalian church in Boston. There were a few of the early settlers in the town who belonged to the Church of Eng- land. In 1646 they asked for liberty to establish theii* form of worship here " tiU inconveniences herebj' be found prejudicial to the churches and Colony ; " but they were very decidedly rebuffed, and no more was heard of the matter for many years. The Church of England service was, however, introduced by the chaplain to the commissioners from Chai'les II., in 1665, and from that time there was little liindrance to its use. Nevertheless, it was not until twelve years after tliis that a church was actiially formed, and not until 1686 that steps were taken to erect a building to accommodate it. Governor Andros in that year greatly offended the consciences of the Old South people by determining to occupy the Old South for an Episcopal Church, and by compelling them to jdeld to him in this matter, though very much against their will. However, about that time, the church was built on a part of the lot where stands the present building. It is not possible to ascertain how the land was procured for the purpose ; and some have believed that Andros appropriated it in the exercise of the supreme power over the soil which he claimed by virtue of the delegated authority of the king. The new church was occupied in July, 1689. In 1710 the building was enlarged, but by the middle of the centiu'y it had fallen to de- cay, and it was voted to rebuild witli stone. The present building was first used August 21, 1754. During the British occupation of the town it was left unharmed. Wliile the Old South Meeting-House was undergoing repairs of the injuries sustained in its occupation as a military riding-school, the society of King's Chapel gave to that society the free use of its church. When the BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 81 Old South people returned to their own house, the proprietors of King's Chapel voted to return to their old form of worship, with extensive alterations in the liturgy, adapting the Church of England service to the Unitarian doctrine. And thus the first Episcopal Church became the fii-st Unitarian in Boston. Adjoining this ancient church is the first burial-ground established m Boston. It is not exactly known when it was fii-st devoted to the burial of the dead. There is some dispute over the question whether Mr. Isaac Jolmson, one of the most prominent of the colonists, and also one of the first to pass away, was or was not buried here. It is, however, certain that this was the only graveyard in Boston for the first thirty years after the settlement. The visitor to this yard will be apt to notice the very singular arrangement of gravestones along- side the paths. They were taken from their original positions years ago, by a city officer, who was certainly gifted with originality, and reset, without the slightest reference to their former uses or positions, as edgestones or fences to the paths. There are many very old gravestones in this yard. These, at least, date back to the year 1658. One of these stones has a history. At some time after the interment of the good deacon it commemorated, the stone was re- jnoved and lost ; but it was discovered in 1830 near thfe Old State House, sev- eral feet below the surface of State Street. It is of gi'een stone, and bears this inscription : — HERE : LYETH THE : BODY : OF : Mr WILLIAM : PADDY : AGED 58 YEARS : DEPARTED THIS : LIFE : AUGUST : THE [28] 1658. On the reverse is this singular stanza of poetry : — HEAR . SLEAPS . THAT BLESED . ONE . WHOES . LIEF GOD . HELP . VS . ALL . TO . LIVE THAT . SO . WHEN . TIEM . SHALL . BE THAT . WE . THIS . WOULD . MUST . LIUE WE . EVER . MAY . BE . HAPPY WITH . BLESSED . WILLIAM PADDY. A great many distinguished men of the early time were Duried in this en- closure, and several of the tombs and headstones still bear the ancient inscrip- tions. The tomb of the Winthrops contains the ashes of Governor Jolui Win- throp, and of his son and grandson, who were governors of Connecticut. All three, however, died in Boston, and were buried in the same tomb. Not far away is a horizontal tablet, from the inscription on which we learn that " here lyes intombed the bodyes " of four " famous reverend and learned pastors of the first church of Christ in Boston," namely, Jolm Cotton, John Davenport, John Oxenbridge, and Thomas Bridge. In this abode of the dead are also the 82 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. graves and the remains of many of the most famous men of the early days of Boston, — the Sheaf es, the Brattles, and the Savages, among others. The next to the oldest stone remahiing in the yard is that of Mr. Jacob Sheafe, one of the richest merchants of his time, who died iu 1658. This burying-ground has not been used for interments for a very long time. It is occasionally opened to visitors. In the granite building on Tremont Street beyond King's Chapel, and adjoin- ing the old burial-ground, is the Massachusetts Historical Society. It has a li- brary of 27,000 volumes, 60,000 pamphlets, and many rare manuscripts. Many ancient portraits adorn the walls, while relics of Washington and the Puritan governors and of King Philip, the chair of Governor Winslow, and the swords of Governor Carver, and Church the Indian-fighter, are carefully preserved here. The most interestmg of the portraits are those of Increase Mather and Sebas- tian Cabot. Among the manuscripts are voluminous writings of Governor Winthrop, Governor Hutchinson (eleven volumes), the historian Hubbard, Governor Jonathan Trumbull of Connecticut, the Rev. Dr. Jeremy Belknap, and other New England worthies, and the manuscript of Washington's address to the officers of the American army. Another rare curiosity is a copy of the Indian Bible, which was translated by the Apostle Eliot, and caimot now be read by any person living. The innermost room is occupied by the Dowse Library, a bequest of nearly 5,000 richly bound books, precious by reason of their rarity and antiquity. The society is the oldest of its kind in America, and includes among its membership many of the most honored names of New England. This building is open daily. In the rear of the Historical Building and King's Chapel was the ancient Latin School, from which School Street derived its name. It was founded in 1634, and among its students were Franklin, Hancock, Sam Adams, Cotton Mather, Robert Treat Paine, and Sir William Pepperell. About the year 1750 the school was removed to the present site of the Parker House, and here Har- rison Gray Otis, Robert C. Wmthrop, Horatio Greenough, Charles Sumner, and others who became renowned, conned their lessons tlirough the long days of their youth. A little farther east, near the site of the City Hall, was the house of Isaac Johnson, one of the first settlers of Boston; and James Otis, the Revolutionary orator, lived close by. Farther down School Street was the an- cient church of the French Huguenots, built in 1704, and presented Avith a Bible by Queen Anne, and Avith a con^munion-service by Mr. Faneuil; and on the north corner of School and Wasliington Street, is one of the oldest build- ings now standing in the city. This is the " Old Corner Book Store." It was built in 1712 by Thomas Crease. It was at first an apothecary store on the ground floor kept by the owner, and dwelling above. Several shopkeepers suc- ceeded him in following years. In 1828 Carter and Hendee occupied it for a bookstore, and to that use it has since been devoted. In 1832 Allen & Ticknor, the lineal ancestors of the present firm of Houghton, Mifflin & Co., took the stand and this house held it under the successive managements of William D. BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 83 Ticknor, Ticknor, Reed, & occupied by Cup- pies, Upham & Co., successors iu 1883 of A. Williams & Co. The Old Cor- ner Store stands in very nearly its orig- inal form, and is one of the best and most substantial examples of a style of architecture that lias gone wholly out of vogue. The Parker House, on School Street, near the corner of Tremont, was the first hotel established in the city on the European plan. Field, and Ticknor & Fields, until 1865. It is now The Pai pleasure, and is a universal Old Corner Bookstore and has for years been one of the most prominent of the many leading hotels of Boston. The late propri- etor of the Parker House, Mr. Harvey 1). Parker, began m a small way in an- other building, and gained a reputation for pi'oviding the liest that the market afforded, wliich the present Parker's has never suffered itself to lose. The house is elegant externally, and sumptuotisly furnished within. It is patronized very extensively by per- sons travelling "for Its pros- ker House. favorite with visitors as well as citizens. 84 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. perity has been so great that the proprietors several years ago were obliged to make an addition of two stories to their original building, and to purchase an estate on the corner of Treniont Street. This newer portion consists of a six- story marble building of fine architectural appearance. Parker's has large pub- lic dining-rooms, a cafe, and several attractive private dining-rooms. Beck- man and Punchard are the present proprietors. Young's Hotel is a short distance from Parker's, fronting on a court in the rear of the Rogers Building, which stands on Washington Street opposite the head of State. The hotel extends to Court Square and Court Street. The portion occupying the corner of Court Square and Court Street was built in 1881-82. It is seven stories high, and is constructed of light sandstone, highly ornamented. In the addition is the ladies' restaurant, the entrance to which is through a noble vestibule on the Court Street side. This dining-room is a hundred feet long and thirty-one feet wide. It is elaborately and richly deco- rated, and sumptuously furnished. At the end is a high, ornamented mantel and open fire-place built up of the Chelsea tile. There are other large dining- rooms and a cafe for gentlemen, the main dining-room being in the older por- tion of the house, and itself finely decorated, though not so lavishly as the ladies' dining-room. Young's is now one of the largest of the hotels in the city. Like Parker's it is conducted on the European plan. The present proprietor is Joseph Reed Wliipple, formerly of the Parker House. It was established by Mr. George Young, long a popular landlord, in 1845, and succeeded '* Taft's Coffee House." The building adjoining the new portion of Young's Hotel, on Court Street, is the Sears Building. This occupies the corner of Court and Washington Streets, fronting on the latter, directly opposite the Old State House. It is one of the finest, as it was also for its size one of the costliest in the city. It has a front of fifty -five feet on Washington Street, and of one hundred and forty- nine feet on Court Street. It is built in the Italian-Gothic style of architecture and the external walls are constructed of gray and wliite marble. It is occu- pied by banks, insurance companies, a score or more of railroad companies, engineers, treasurers of companies, etc. This elegant structure is one of many belonging to the Sears estate. It was built in 1868-69 and cost about three quarters of a million dollars. On Tremont Street, next the Historical Society's building, and near the head of the street, is the Boston Museum, by far the oldest of the places of amusement in Boston. In 1841, Mr. Moses Kimball organized and opened the " Boston Museum and Gallery of Fine Arts," at the corner of Tremont and Biomfield Streets. In connection with the museum was a fine music-hall, where the drama very soon found a home. The present building was erected by Mr. Kimball in 1846, and the first entertainment was given in it on the 2d of No- vember in that year. The museum proper was for many years large and inter- esting, and occupied numerous alcoves in the large hall on Tremont Street, and several capacious galleries. Now, however, the museum is of little importance, BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 85 and the theatre is the main attraction. This has been several times entirely reconstructed, and is at present one of the handsom- est, most com- plete, and bright- est playhouses in the city. It is fine- ly decorated and upholstered ; and much care is giv- en to the ventila- tion. An excel- lent stock c o m- pany presents the best of dramatic novelties, making the Museum a fiist class comedy the- atre ; and the " star " and " com- bination " systems are occasionally used. The Muse- Boston Museum um is a great favorite with all classes of patrons of the drama. It has been under the management of Mr. R. M. Field since 1863; and the veteran comedian Mr. William Warren, was a member of its company, with the single exception of one year, from 1847, until his retirement at the close of the winter season of 1882-3. On the corner of Tremont and Court Streets, where a fine brown stone struc- ture called the Hemmenwaj^ Building now stands (see cut on page 87), until 1883 stood an old building which was conspicuous among its neighbors as the house in which General Washington stayed during his visit to Boston in 1789, when Hancock turned him the cold shoulder. On Tremont Row, in this vicin- ity, was the court-quarter of old Boston, where stood the houses of Governor Endicott, Sir Harry Vane, and Richard Bellingham, and the eminent divines Cotton, Oxenbridge, and Davenport. On Tremont Street just beyond School Street, south, and opposite the Tre- mont House, — which has been described in the previous chapter, — is Tremont Temple. It occupies the site of the old Tremont Theatre, and is one of the best known halls in the city for public assemblies of all kinds. The present is the third building on this site known as Tremont Temple. The first was the Tremont Theatre remodelled, in 1843, for the establishment of a popular Bap- tist Church. This building was destroyed by fire in March, 1852. Tlie next 86 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. year a new building was completed wliicli in turn was burned in August, 1879. The present building was completed in October, 1880. It was in the haU of the second building that Mr. Charles Dickens gave his readings in Boston on liis last visit to America, and it was selected on account of its great capacity and admirable acoustic properties. The present audience-room is one hundred and twenty-two feet long, seventy-two feet wide, and sixty-six feet high, witli deep, encii'clijig galleries. It can seat comfortably 2,600 persons. It is provided with a fine Hook and Hastings organ. Beneath the large hall is a smaller one, known as the Meionaon, Avith an entrance through a long passage-way from Tremont Street. The Temple is occupied on Sundays by tlie Tremont Temple Baptist Church, wliich was established in 1839, and for which the hall was origi- nally coustructed. Several Baptist missionary and publication societies also have their headquarters in the building. The great hall has been celebrated, of late years, as the place where the Rev. Joseph Cook has discussed theological and secular questions in the " Monday Lecture " before large audiences. A fine piece of architecture is the Horticultural Hall on Tremont Street, between Bromfield Street and Montgomery Place. It was erected by the Mas- sachusetts Horticultural Society, and is one of the most perfectly classical ^ ^ buildings in the city. It is built of white gran- it e, beaut i- fully dressed, and the exte- rior is massive and elegant in proportion. The front is surmounted by a granite statue of Ceres ; and on the north and south but- tresses of the second stories are ideal stat- ues in granite of Flora and Pomona by Martin Mil- more. The lower floor of the building is occupied for business purposes, and above are two halls, not very large, yet adapted not only to their origmal purpose, for the meetings and exliibitions of the society, but for parlor concerts, lectures, social gatherings, and fairs. and Studio Building BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 87 The Studio Building, showu in the accompanying illustration, stands on the opposite corner of Bromfield Street. This building was at one time a head- quarters of the artists of Boston, but now many of them are located elsewhere. Besides the devotees of art, there are many private teachers of music and the languages in the Studio Building, and a few of the rooms are occupied as bach- elors' apartments. Standmg on Tremont Street, at the head of Hamilton Place, and looking down the place, one may see the side entrance to a plam and lofty brick budd- mg without ornament or architectural pretensions of any sort. This buildmg is the Boston Music Hall, one of the noblest public halls in the world. It was built by private enterprise, and first opened to the public in 1852. The acous- tic properties of the hall are perfect. As Dr. Holmes has said, it is " a kind of passive musical instrument, or at least a sounding-board constructed on theoreti- cal principles." The hall is 130 feet in length, 78 in breadth, and 65 in height. T h e height is half of the length; the breadth is six tenths of the length, the unit being thir- teen feet. The fine statue of Apollo, the ad- mirable casts presented by Miss Charlotte Cushman and placed in the walls, and, above all, the m a g n i fi c e n t statue of Bee- t h o V e n , by Crawford, that stands on the platform, deserve the at- tention of every visitor Hemmenway Burlding rt Streets BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. to the hall. For more than thirty years the most of the concerts of high character have been given here : the grand oratorio performances of the Handel and Haydn Society, the oldest musical organization in the United States, and the leading choral society in the country ; the Symphony Concerts of the Harvard Musical Association ; the deservedly popular concerts of the Boston Symphony Orcliestra, established in 1881 througli the liberality of Henry L. Higginson, which furnishes twice each week during the winter sea- sou the choicest music at a low price ; the occasional concerts of the Apollo, Boylston, Cecilia, and other singing clubs ; and those of individual artists, who, from Ole Bull and Parepa to Josefty, have been heard within these walls. The great organ, long one of the attractions of the hall, was removed in 1884. Beneath the Music Hall is a small hall known as Bumstead Hall, the entrance to which is from the main entrance to the building from Winter Street. This IS used piinci]>Tlh ioi itht umK Not far from the Music Hall, o n Washington Street between AVest and Boyls- ton Streets is what might quite prop- erly be called the " theatre quar- ter" of the city. Here, on the west side of the street, are the Boston, Bijou, and Park theatres, and on the east side the Globe theatre \. while just beyond lU)ylston Street is the World's Mu- seum, Menage- rie, and Aqua- rium. The Boston The Boston Theatre. Theatre is the largest regular place of amusement in New England, and is in many respects one of the finest. It was built by a corporation composed of leading citizens in 1854, and was opened on the 11th of September of that year, under the man- agement of Mr. Thomas Barry. There is a stock company connected with this. BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 89 theatre, but there are frequent " star " performances during the season, and this is the house usually engaged for the representation of Italian, German, French, and English Opera. Most of the great American actors, and many dis- tinguished foreign actors and actresses, have appeared upon this stage. Jeffer- son and Owens, Booth and Forrest, Fechter and Sothern, McCullough, Ristori, Salvini, Jauauschek, Irving, Elleu Terry, and a host of others whose names are famous in the annals of the stage, have here delighted the Boston public ; while of opera-singers may be mentioned Nilsson, Lucca, Parepa Rosa, Kellogg, Phillipps, Patti, Gerster, and Ilauck. Here, too, the gorgeous spectacular plays that have their seasons of prosperity have been presented in very complete form ; the greatest and most successful fairs ever held in Boston for charitable objects have been given here ; and the vast auditorium was the scene of the balls given in honor of the Prince of Wales and the Grand Duke Alexis. The Bijou, one of the newest of the city theatres, is just beyond the Boston. It occupies the site of the Gaiety Theatre, which flourished for several years, and which was constructed from a somewhat famous hall long known as the Melodeon. The Bijou is a dainty theatre, highly ornamented, and richly dec- orated. The prevailing shade of the interior decorations is a coppery hue, which lights up luilliantly. The house is so arranged that every seat com- mands a good view of the stage. There is but one spacious balcony, and two private boxes, which are removed entirely from the stage. The proscenium arch is of the horse-shoe form, and the arrangements of the stage are modern in all respects. The entrance to the auditorium is between heavy damask cur- tains in place of doors. The main entrances from the street are by long flights of stairs, and to the right of the landing is an artistically furnished apartment. The house was first opened on the evening of December 11, 1882, with a per- formance of Gilbert and Svdlivan's " lolanthe," which enjoyed a long run dur- ing the lirst season. In this " theatre quarter," just beyond the Bijou, the Adams House looms up majestically. Its finely finished marble front terminates in three pyramid towers, and it rises seven stories. It is one of the largest and best hotels in the city, famous especially for the excellence of its cuisine. It is conducted on the European plan. George G. Hall is proprietor. On its site long stood the Lamb tavern built in 1745. The Park is a small theatre, well arranged, and inviting in appearance. It was constructed from Beethoven Hall, and was first opened to the public on the evening of April 14, 1879. The dimensions of the auditorium are : sixty-three feet from the stage to the doors, sixty feet wide, and fifty feet high. The floor is divided into orchestra stalls and parquet, and orchestra circle ; the first two rows of the first balcony are called the balcony, and the seats behind them the dress-circle ; and the second balcony is the family circle and gallery. The house seats about 1,180, and it is so admirably arranged that all the seats com- mand a good view of the stage. On either side of the stage are private boxes, attractively upholstered and provided with most comfortable chairs. The main 90 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. entrance to the theatre is tlirough a broad and handsome vestibule, and there are ample exits, so that the house can be quickly emptied of a crowded audi- ence. The Park has no stock company, but its entertainments are furnished by "stars," and leading Xew York dramatic companies. Henry E. Abbey and John B. Schoeffel are the managers. The Globe Theatre is one of the most attractive of the play-houses of the city. The original theatre on tliis site was built in 1867 for Mr. John H. Sel- wyn, by Messrs. Arthur Cheney and Dexter H. FoUett, and was at hi-st known as Selwyn's Theatre. Colonel FoUett subsequently disposed of his interest to Ml". Cheney. After two delightful seasons of comedy under Mr. Selwyn's man- agement, Mr. Charles Fechter became manager, and was in turn succeeded by Mr. W. R. Floyd. On Mr. Selwyn's retirement the name of the theatre was changed to the Globe. In May, 1873, on the morning of Decoration Day, the thea- tre was destroyed in the extensive fii-e on Washington Street. For a year after the site remained unoccupied, but in 1874 Mr. Cheney, with the cooperation of one hun- dred and fifty gentlemen, who paid $^1,000 each for the right to one seat each during the eighteen years' lease, rebuilt it in an enlarged form, and it was duly opened on the 3d December of that year. Mr. Che- ney died in 1878, and for a brief season the theatre was conducted by Mr. John Stetson, who had, for a short time preced- ing Mr. Cheney's death, conducted it in conjunction with the latter. Then the house was closed for a season, and subse- quently, in October, 1880, Mr. Stetson ob- tained a le.ise for ten years. Thereupon he freshened the theatre and added sev- eral improvements. The auditorium is sixty feet high, and of the usual horse- shoe form. It has, besides the parquet, two galleries and an intermediate row of The Globe Theatre. mezzanine chairs. The stage is probably tlie most perfect one in the country, being furnished with all approved appli- ances for the perfect setting of scenery. A departure, and it is believed the first, has been made from the otherwise universal practice of constructing stage floors, this being entirely level. Tlie painted drop-curtain is admired by many, as well as the rich decoration and tasteful use of colors on the walls and ceiling, and the elegant drapery of the boxes. Beside the main en- BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 91 trance on Washington Street, there is a handsome one from Essex Street, which runs to the eastward from the former thorouglifare. On Essex street, years dgo, Gilbert Stuart lived and painted. In later years Wendell Phillips lived here, near the corner of Chaiincy, and only removed in 1882, when his house was taken down to make way for the extension of Harrison Avenue. His home until his death in 1884 was in Common Street, near by. On Washington, corner of Boylston Street, is the Boylston Market, a plain, old-fashioned structure. This was built in 1809, and at that time its site was on the outer margin of the town. It was designed by Bulfinch, dedicated with a speech from John Quincy Adams, and presented with a clock by Boylston. The Handel and Haydn Society occupied the hall aljove the market in 1816, and afterwards the hall was occasionally used as a theatre, as Murdoch's school of elocution, and as a church. It now contains an armory. The street floor is still a market-house. The building opposite Boylston Market, near the corner of Essex Street, bears a brownstone bas-relief commemorating the famous elm which once stood on that site, of which Lafayette said : " The world should never forget the spot where once stood Liberty Tree," Here the Sons of Liberty used to assemble, before the Revolution, to organize resistance to British oppression. On Boylston Street, midway between Washington and Tremont Streets, is the building of the Boston Young Men's Chris- tian Union. This organization was instituted in 1851 and incorporated in 1852. Its building- is a handsome structure with its clock-tower above the Gothic front of Ohio sandstone. The building contains parlors, reception-roonis, class and reading-rooms, apartments for games, for correspondence, and President and Direct- ors' room, besides a gymnasium and a public hall. There is also a library of 7,000 vol- umes ; and the collection of curiosities includes, among many other things, 475 birds whose habitat is in Massaclmsetts. The Union Hall seats 520 persons, and has a stage and side- rooms suitable for theatricals, for which it is often hired. Norcross Hall (which also may be hired) seats 275 persons. During the spring and summer months of 1883 the build- ing was considerably enlarged by the addition of a wing, so that the ground area now occu- pied is 11,000 square feet. By this addition the library and reading-room are considerably Young Men's Christian Union. enlarged, the latter becoming the largest reading-room in the city. The area of the gymnasium is also enlarged. Many new appliances have, moreover 92 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. been added to the latter, and it is now one of the finest and best equipped in the city. The benevolent work of the Union includes an employment-bureau, a boarding-house committee ; committees for receptions, Christmas and New Year's festivals to needy and worthy eliildren, Thanksgiving dmners for mem- bers unable to be with kindred, clothing for poor children, " the country week " (vacations in the country for poor eliildren), and rides for invalids ; and a committee on churches (of all denominations). There are also ladies' com- mittees associated in these and other charitable and kindly labors. Lectures, readings, dramatical and musical entertainments, and practical talks on matters of science, art, history, literature, and political economy are given during the winter season. Classes are held in a great variety of branches, and also social meetings and suburban excursions for information and pleasure. The Union is free from debt. The Hotel Boylston, on the corner of Boylston and Tremont Streets, is one ss=}-5=, ^a -: ^ _s._ ..- gj^ ^_ of the most ele- ^ gant of the class of dwelUng-houses in the city, upon the "French flat" system, and one of the oldest. It is the property o f the Hon. Charles Francis Adam s. Its architecture is [(leasing and taste- ful, and its loca- tion gives it a great advantage over some other fine buildings that Hotel Boylston. must be viewcd from the opposite side of a narrow street. There is a public restaurant con- nected with the house, the entrance to which is from Tremont Street. The Masonic Temple stands on the opposite corner of Tremont and Boylston Streets. The headquarters of the order for many years was the building on the corner of Tremont Street and Temple Place, remodelled for business purposes in 1885. Subsequently the several organizations, or a large number of them, were gathered in the building adjoining the Winthrop House, at the corner of Tremont and Boylston Streets. Both the hotel and the halls were destroyed by fire on the night of April 7, 1864. It was then determined to build a temple worthy of the order on the same site. The corner-stone was laid with imposing ceremonies on the 14th of October of the same year, and the temple was dedi- cated on the Freemasons' anniversary, St. John's Day, June 24, 1867. On the BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 93 latter occasion President Johnson was present, having accepted an invitation to participate in the ceremonies, which drew togethei- delegations of brethren of the order from all parts of Massachusetts and New England. The building is of fine granite. It has a fron<- of eighty-live feet on Tremont Street, and its height is ninetv feet, though one of the octa gonal towers rises to the height of one hundred and twenty-one fcQt. It has seven stories abo\ e the basement, of which on^y the street and basement floors are occupied for other than masonic purposes. There are three largt halls for meetings, on the sec ond, fourth, and sixth floors, fin ished respectively in the Coi intliian, Egyptain, and Gothi styles. On the intermediatt floors are ante-rooms, small halls, and offices ; while in the seventh story are three large banqueting-halls. On Tremont Street, between Boylston and West, is a marble structure of architectural beauty, which has added not a little to the attractiveness of Tre- mont Street. It is occupied by the Mason & Hamlin Organ and Piano Com- pany for their warerooms. In tliis building is the Boston Conservatoi-y of Music, an admirable institution, directed by Julius I^ichberg, one of the fore- most of Boston musicians. In the building adjoining is the Chickering Hall, in which some of the finest chamber concerts are given during the musical season. The retail trade of the Central District is chiefly transacted in that section bounded on the east by Washington Street, the greater part of the territory between Washington Street and the wharves being given up to wholesale busi- ness. The ladies' quarter has its centre in the neighborhood of Washington and Winter Streets. On any pleasant day the sidewalks and stores in the imme- diate vicinity of that corner are crowded with ladies engaged in the delightful occupation of " shopping," and the streets are lined with their carriages. On the east side of Washington Street, occupying the spacious lot between Central Court and Avon Street, is the building occupied by Jordan, Marsh, & Co., as a retail dry-goods store. It has a fine front of dark freestone, five stories high. At first the building covered only a portion of the lot, and the firm occupied the street floor and basement, the second floor being used as a Masonic Temple. 94 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. warerooiiis by Cliickering- & Sons, with a beautiful hall at the rear known as Chiekeriiig's Hall, while the upper floors were arranged into suites of lodging- rooms mostly occupied by artists and other professional people. In course of time the business of tlie firm spread over the entire building, and large addi- tions to the structure, extending it to Avon and Summer Streets, were made. The several floors are reached by elegant passenger elevators, and there are an abundance of conveniences for shoppers. The dry-goods store of R. H. White & Co. is nearly opposite the Boston Tlieatre, and one of the chief ornaments of Washington Street, with its palatial front and the skillfully arranged displays in the windows. This establishment is perhaps the largest in New England. It now occupies the entire building extending through to the Harrison Avenue extension; and upon the corner of Bedford Street and Harrison Avenue is a fine new entrance of impressive ap- pearance. The first and second stories of the great building are given to retail trade; the tliird is reserved for the wholesale trade; and on the fourth hundreds of women are engaged in making ladies' garments. The structure occupied by this firm is a fine specimen of the commercial architecture of Boston. Their richly furnished reception room is well worth visiting. Another great dry-goods es- tablishment in this vicinity is that of C. F. Hovey & Co., oc- cupying a large and massive granite building on Summer Street. There are several oth- er great structures devoted to this business in Winter Street. One of the handsomest com- mercial buildings in the city is on the west side of Washing- ton Street, near Winter Street, — a lofty edifice of light-col- ored stone, rich in fine carv- ings. On Washington Street, east side, north of Summer Street, is the marble structure occupied byMacullar, Parker & Co., for their great wholesale and retail clothing manufactory and sales- room. Its fine front is very striking, and its internal ar- rangements are as perfect as its architecture. It is one of the largest buildings in the country BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 95 wholly devoted to the business of clothing manufacture. It fronts forty-six feet on Washington Street, and extends back to Hawley Street two hundred and twenty-five feet. This building is nearly an exact copy of that on the same spot which was destroyed in the great fire. Boston owes to the fire of 1872 a group of buildings which are among the most stately and costly of any in the city. These have been erected by life insurance companies for the most part in the immediate neigh- borhood of the new Post-Office. The magnificent marble building of the Mutual Life Insurance Company of Xew York is one of the most beau- tiful as well as one of the most expensive of them. It fronts sixty-one feet on Milk and one him- dred and twenty- seven feet on Pearl Street, and is constructed of fine white marbL from the Tucka- hoe quarry. It is intended to b ( file - proof, t h i wmdow-sashes oi iron being set in marble frames, while all the floors are constructed whollv of incom- Building of the Mutual Lite Insuiance Con-.par.y of New York. bustible material. The architecture of the exterior is the modern French de- 96 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. tail, adorned with elaborate carvings, and crowned by a lofty Mansard roof. The chief feature is a beautiful marble tower, rising from the centre of the main front to a height of 130 feet, and terminating in a gracefvd spire. On the upper part of the tower is a large clock ; and an alarm-bell hangs inside. Near the top of the spire is an observatory, surromided by a brass railing. The handsome new building of the New England Mutual Life Insurance Company stands on the corner of Milk and Congress streets, with V, frontage of fifty feet on the former and one huu- d r e d and eighty - one feet on the latter street, and is one of the chief (irnaments of Post - Office Square. It is built of white Con cor d granite, e x - cept the base- ment, which is of Quincy granite, i n the Renais- sance style of architecture. The buildino- Building of the New England Mutual Life Insurance Company. is admirably constl'ueted. A fine marble staircase runs from the first to the sixth story. The building is furnished with numerous vaults and safes, the basement alone having no less than ten safes for the accommodation of the Bos- ton Safe Deposit Company. The New England Mutual Life occupies the sec- ond story of its building. The Cathedral Building is a handsome ii"on structure on Winthrop Square, occupying the site of the ancient Cathedral of the Holy Cross, the scene of the labors of Bishop Cheverus, who was afterwards Cardinal-Archbishop of BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 97 The Cathedral Building. Bordeaux. It was a part of the estate of the late Isaac Rich, and its rev- enues formed a portion of the endowment of Boston University, until it passed to the University to wliich it now belongs. At the south end of Winthrop Square is the Beebe-Weld Building, a large and imposing granite structure. The Equitable Building is a lofty and massive structure on Devonshire, cor- ner of Milk streets, opposite the Milk Street end of the Post-Office, and as near as possible to the centre of commercial Boston. It is owned by the Equit- able Life Assurance Society, and was built in 1873, at a cost of .fSl, 100,000. The walls are of Quincy and Hallowell granite, with ponderous brick back- ing, the floors being of impervious artificial stone on brick arches, the partitions of brick and the roof of iron and slate. There are nine stories above the base- ment, which are reached by three elevators and broad stairways of marble. The basements are occupied by the massive fire and burglar-proof safe deposit vaults of the Security Safe Deposit Co. Above these are banks, railroad and mining corporations, and other offices, occupying the various stories, which are divided by heavy fire-proof partitions, with artificial stone floors laid on 7 98 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. iron ffiiders and arches. The roof, easily reached by elevator, commands a fine view of the city and harbor. It was formerly occti- pied by the United States Signal Ser- vice, with its wind- vane, anemometer, and other scientific appliances, which now occupies the roof of the Post- Offiee opposite. The officers of this department are continnally making observations hence. The cautionary sig- nals to the vessels about to sail are displayed here, and warn of approach- i n g storms. At another point o n the roof is the great time-ball, which falls daily at pre- cisely noon, being connected by tele- graph with the Ob- servatory of Har- vard Uuiversitv. Equitable Building. The site of Franklin Street was a miry swamp, and was di-ained a hundred years ago by Joseph Barrell, a wealthy trader on the northwest coast of America. The reclaimed site of Franklin Street became ^Mr. Barrell's garden and fish-pond, his mansion being on Summer Street. In 1793 Bulfinch and Scollay built here the first block of buildings in Boston, a line of sixteen dwellings, called the Tontine Crescent, in front of which was a grass-plot three liundred feet long, containing a monumental urn to the memory of Benjamin Franklin. Ten years later the Cathedral was erected, farther down the street, and was a great structure in Ionic ai'chitecture, designed by Bulfinch. In 1860 the Cathedral had become insecure, and the gromid on which it stood was sold for enous^h to aid greatlv in the construction of the enormous and BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 99 costly Cathedral at tlie South End. The old Cathedral fronted on Devon- shire Street, which was then known as Pudding Lane, a narrow and winding alley running hy the old Boston Theatre. Several of the ancient churches were also in this vicinity, and among them was the Federal Street Church, which rose in 1744, near the corner of Federal and Franklin streets, and was conducted by Belknap, Channing, and Gannett. At the corner of Federal and Milk streets once stood the stately house from wliicli Governor Shirley was bui'ied, in 1771, and which was afterwards the home of the able and witty Robert Treat Paine, father and son. One of the most extensive business blocks in the burned-over district is that erected by the late Gardner Brewer, Esq., on Devon- shire , Franklin, and Federal streets. It is of Nova Scotia free- stone, and is in general highly sat- isfactory from an architectural point of view, though not so rich in or- namentation a s others. Among the other large build- ings whereof the architecture or the material are worthy the atten- tion of strangeis are all of those in Wintlirop Square, whicli are almost unifoiinly rich in design and hand- some in for ni ; two fine buildings erected by the Sears estate, one at the corner of The Brewer Building. Summer and Chauncy streets, and the other at the corner of Franklin and Devonshire ; the store at the southern corner of Washington and Summer 100 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. streets ; the Lee Block, at the corner of Siiinmer and Lincoln streets ; several massive stone buildings on Bedford Street, and that in wliich the Shoe and Leather Exchange is located ; and others which a tour of tlie streets will bring to one's notice. Within the limits of this district are, as we have said, all the daily newspa- per offices, and many of those of the weeklies. The section of A^^ashing■ton Street, between State, and just south of Milk Street has come of late years to be called " Newspaper Row." The office of the Transcript, the oldest of the evening newsi)apers, and next to the Advertiser the oldest daily in the city, is the far- thest south. It is a literary paper, and noted for tlie excellence of its imseellaneous read- ing matter. It has been long the fa- vorite afternoon paper of Boston and vicinity, and its present quarto liu'in is in marked I ontrast to its di- imuutive begin- ning. The Tran- script was first puV)lished in July, 1830, and until the spring of 1875 the senior partner of the original firm \\as still the head of the house. The Washington Street: Transcript Office before the F.re. experiment WaS for some time one of doubtful success, but no paper in Boston is now more firmly established. During the entire period of its publication it has had but six edi- tors-in-chief. The late Mr. Daniel Haskell, the fourth of the line, held the position for nearly a quarter of a century. The Transcript lias always been a pleasant, chatty, tea-table paper, full of fresh news, literary gossip, and choice extracts from whatever in any branch of literature is new and entertaining. The large and attractive building in which it is now located is on the corner of BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 101 Washington and Milk Streets. It has several special features that make it a particularly cosy and convenient office. The Transcript was unfortunate in the fire of 1872, for it was driven suddenly out of an office almost new, and gun- powder used in the cellar of tlie adjoining building destroyed its presses, types, and other material stored in its tire-proof, but not gunpowder-proof basement. The present building is nuicli larger and tiner than the one destroyed. Edward H. Clement is the present editor-in-chief of the Transcript. A few steps from Washington Street, on Milk Street, is the office of the Boston Post. The Post building oc- cupies the spot which tradition de- clares to have been the birthplace of Benjamin Franklin. The first num- ber of the Post was issued on the 9th of November, 1831, by Charles G. Greene. In that first number the editor promised " to exclude from its colunms everything of a vindictive or bitter character ; " and although he annoiuiced his intention to discuss public questions freely and fearlessly, he agreed to do so " in a maimer that, if it failed to convince, should not offend." The promise has been faitlifully kept. Tlie Post has fre- quently maintained the unpopular side in political controversies, but it has always done so in such a manner as to make almost as many friends among those it opposed as among per- sons of its own political faith. It lias also always maintained a reputation for liveliness and cheerful humor that has been well deserved. Like the Advertiser it devotes a lai-ge por- tion of its space to conimercial and marine news, and addresses itself to business men. The Post was first published in its present commodious quarters on the morning of August 31, 1874. It had been driven, by street improvements, from the build- Boston Post Building. ing occupied during the previous five years. The Post Building has a fine iron front, with a bust of Franklin, and is admirably arranged internally. The street floor is used for a counting-room and the upper floors for editors' and 102 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. compositors' rooms. The Post is a large folio, and is sold at two cents a copy. It publishes a weekly edition which circulates in different sections of New England. The Boston Journal is both a morning and an evening paper. It long ago obtained an excel- lent reputation as a general newspa- per, both for the ( ouuting-room and the family circle- It has a very large sale tliroughout Massachusetts, Maine a n d New Hampshire, and in consequence of the peculiar character of its constituency has always been especially strong in its New England intelligence. The Journal was found- ed in 1833, appear- ing for the first time on February 5 of that year aS the Evening Mer- eantile Journal. ( )n the beginning the publication of a morning edition, The Boston Journal BuMdmg j^. ^^^j^ j^g present name. The Journal was the first newspaper in Boston to procure a Hoe press. For several years it used two, — one of six cylinders, and the other of eight. Subsequently two Hoe perfecting presses capable of printing 60,000 papers an hour were substituted, and the stereotyping process introduced. The present building was occupied in September, 1860. In Mai-ch, 1880, the interior was badly injured by fire. Then it was practically rebuilt, many modern conven- iences being introduced. The office is now one of the most convenient news- jMiper offices in the city. The retail price of the paper was in the winter of 1883 reduced to two cents, and the circulation was in consequence considerably increased. William W. Clapp is the present conductor of the Journal. The Herald Building is on the west side of Wasliington Street, nearly op- BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 103 posite that of the Journal. The Herakl is a morning and evening paper, with a Sunday edition, and has an average daily circulation of over 100,000 copies, which is second to that of but one newspaper in America (the New York Sun). It has issued as many as 302,030 copies in a single day, a feat which is un- equalled in the liistory of journalism. The forms are stereotyped, since no other method would enable it to print the requisite number of copies witliin the limited available tune. Tliis paper was founded in 1846, as a one-cent daily, by the name of the American Eagle ; and two years later assumed its present title, and took an independent position in politics, which it has maintained ever since. The editorial staff includes 44 persons ; and there are 84 compositors, 30 men in the business department, and 11 in the stereotyping foundry. Early in 1878 the Herald occupied the present building which had been erected for it, with a fa9ade in the French Renaissance style, 100 feet high from the side-walk, mas- sively constructed and liberally equipped, with copious ornamentation in pure marbles, sculptures, metal work, and precious woods. It is quite worth while to look into the business office, on the ground-floor, and see its sumptuous adornment of many-colored polished marbles, plate-glass, and mahogany, and the busy scene which is there continually presented to view. The Herald pub- lishes a Sunday edition, in 16-page form, of which great numbers are sold. Edwin B. Haskell is the editor-in-chief of the Herald, and R. M. Pulsifer is the publisher. These gentlemen, with Mr. Charles Andrews, are the sole proprietors of the paper. The Advertiser Building on the east side of the street, Nos. 246 and 248, and extending tlu-ough to Devonshire Street, is the newest office in " News- paper Row." It is a tall, marble-front structure, tow- ering way above its neighbors ; and from its loca- tion in the bend of the street as well as its strikinj;- appearance architecturally, it is one of the most con- spicuous buildings in the quarter. The street floor is occupied by the counting-room, a finely decorate( ' and uniquely furnished apartment ; the extensive basement accommodates the stereotyping, printing, mailing, and delivery rooms ; and the upper floors are devoted to the editorial rooms, editors' library and reception room, and the composition room. The building is provided with all the modern imjjrovc- ments and appliances which are to be found in the best equipped modern newspaper offices ; and the entire Advertiser establishment is lighted at night by the Edison electric light. The Advertiser is the oldest daily paper in Boston, established in 1812. years by Nathan Hale. It is an interesting ilding. The Advertiser It was edited for many fact that the site of its former 104 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. building on Court Street, from which it removed to its present building in the spring of 1883, is that from which James Franklin issued the first number of the New England Courant, in 1721. The same spot was again occupied as a printing-office in 1776, by the Independent Chronicle, to the rights of which the Advertiser succeeded. The Advertiser is accounted one of the leading morning journals of New England. In politics it is now Rejiublican. The Boston Evening Record, started Sept. 3, 1881, as a campaign paper, became so manifestly popular that it was made a permanent enterprise. It increased rapidly in circulation, reaching a daily issue of 35,000 in little more than a year. It is a large four-page paper, is sold for one cent, and is published by the Advertiser. Its leading feature is the prompt publication of the news in attractive shape, with pithy comment. W. E. Barrett directs the editorial department of both papers. E. B. Hayes is publisher. The Boston Globe occupies the old Transcript building, two doors below the new Advertiser building. The first number of the Globe was issued from its present office March 4, 1872. It was a quarto sheet, published every morning except Sunday, handsomely printed, and Edwin P. Whipple was its literaly critic. Though professedly independent in politics, it advocated and main- tained the cardinal doctrines of the Republican party. Subsequently it changed hands, and was for several years conducted more independently. In 1878 the Globe again changed its tone, and also its form, becoming a four-page Dem- ocratic paper. It now publishes morning and evening, and Sunday editions (the latter of twelve or sixteen pages), competing with the Herald. The pres- ent conductor of the Globe is Charles H. Taylor. The Evening Traveller occupies a building at the corner of State and Con- gress streets, — quarters in which it has been established since 1854. The Daily Traveller was first issued on the first of April, 1845, as a two-cent evening paper, — the first in Boston to adopt a price so low. The weekly American Traveller had then been issued more than twenty years, having been first pub- lished in January, 1825. In its day the American Traveller was the great paper for stage-coaches and steamboats. When the daily was founded, it adopted a course quite different from that of any other paper in Boston. It aimed to be a moral and religious organ as well as a medium of news. The old traditions are still retained to some extent in the Traveller, but it long ago adopted the purveyance of news as its leading object. In this particular its reputation is firmly established, the news department, under a liberal manage- ment, being always prompt and full. The editorial and composition rooms are on the third and fourth floors of the building. The Traveller is owned and managed by Roland Worthington, for some years collector of the port of Bos- ton. A view of the Traveller Building is given m the illustration of State Street, on page 70. Within " Newspaper Row " or its immediate neighborhood are the offices of the several exclusively Sunday papers, — the Saturday Evening Gazette, con- ducted by Colonel Henry G. Parker, which is largely devoted to society news ; BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 105 the Boston Courier, formerly one of the leading dailies, now conducted by Joseph R. Travers, and edited by Arlo Bates ; the Boston Sunday Budget, edited by John W. Ryan, formerly of the Courier ; and the Boston Sunday Times. Here also are the offices of the Beacon, a literary and society paper published Saturdays, the Commercial Bidletin, and other serial publications devoted to special interests. Farther up Washington Street, nearly opposite the Globe Theatre, is the office of The Boston Pilot, which is the headquarters of a vast influence over the Roman Catholics of America. It is a weekly paper of large size — the largest Catholic paper in America — and has a circidation unequalled by that of any other Catholic paper in the world. The Pilot is owned by Archbishop Williams and Mr. John Boyle O'Reilly, and is ably edited by the latter, whose pen has done distinguished service in other directions, and who has a well established reputation as a graceful poet. In connection with the newspapers, general and class journals, it may be interesting to glance at the cosmopolitan character of the Puritan City, and to note the widely divergent elements which go to make up the Bostonian of to- day. According to the census of 1880, out of a total population of 362,839, there were born in foreign countries 114,796. By far the larger part of the foreigners are from Ireland, which has sent 64,793 of the present citizens of the New-England metropolis. Canada comes next, with 23,156; Great Britain has given us nearly 12,000 in the following detachments: England 8,998; Scot- land, 2,662; AVales, 221. It seems that the stream of emigration from the Britisli Isles, wliich Maverick and Winthrop started, has not yet ceased to flow to the shores of Massachusetts Bay. Germany has now 7,396 representa- tives in Boston; Sweden and Norway have 1,686; Holland, 402; Denmark, 196; and Russia and Poland, 778. The Latin nations have made but slight contri- butions to this great Gothic migration, although 1,277 have come from sunny Italy, 1,041 from France and Switzerland, and 810 from Portugal and the Western Islands. Tlie clubs located within this district are the Temple, tlie oldest in the city, and the Paint and Claj^, one of the youngest. The club-house of the former is in West Street, situated in its own building, No. 35, op])osite Mason Street and near the rear or " carriage " entrance to the Boston Theatre. This is a social club organized in 1829. The character of the Paint and Clay is well indicated by its name. It is a club of professional men, largely artists. Its rooms are on the upper floor of No. 419 Washington Street. It was estab- lished in 1880. Exhibitions of work of its artist members are made annually, generally in the spring. We end this chapter, as we began it, with a view in State Street. This time our sketch shows the magnificent row of warehouses at the lower end of State Street, known as State Street Block, which contains some of the most substan- tially built and commodious stores in Boston. The building, or rather the collection of buildings, covers an area 425 feet long on State and Central 106 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. streets, and is of a uniform depth of 125 feet. The walls are laid in rough granite ashlar. The stores have each five stories and a double attic above the street, and the height of the buildings from the street to the crown of the roof is about 92 feet. The general appearance of tliis block of fifteen stores is of extreme solidity. The excellence of construction was proved by fire but a week after the great conflagration of November, 1872, when one of these stores, filled with exceedingly combustible material, was wholly destroyed without doing injury to the stores on either side. Many other wharves in Boston besides Long Wharf are covered with solid and capacious warehouses, though this State Street Block is the largest and most elegant of all. The visitor in the city will find agreeable occupation for many a leisure hour in wandering about the wharves, where there is, under the revival of commerce in Boston, a perpetual scene of activity. The most im- portant wharves in Boston proper beside Long Wharf are those in the imme- diate vicinity of State Street, — especially Central, India, and T Wharves, where most of the large steamers in the coasting trade arrive, and whence they depart. At- lantic Avenue, which has become an important chan- nel of communica- 1 1 o n between the several wharves, passes directly across the f o r e - _ 1 ound of our view ( ^ State Street Block. Tliis ave- nue was laid out in 1868, extended 1874. It is a broad, well - paved street, which is almost en- tirely given up to the heavy drays State Street Block. that transfer freight from wharf to wharf, or from vessels to the business warehouses. Through its centre runs the Union Freight railroad, which unites by a short and easy route the northern and the southern railway lines. The line reaches from the Lowell Railroad freight station, on Lowell Street, to the Old Colony, on Kneeland Street. This company owns no rolling-stock whatever, and its sole BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 107 office is to transfer freight-cars from one line to another, or from the railroads to the wharves. This is done chiefly or altogether by uiglit, and thus the regu- lar traffic is not interfered with in the least. By the use of this line it has been made possible to load vessels at the large wharves directly from cars brought into the city over railroads that have no deep-water connection in the city proper. It is owned jointly by the Old Colony and Boston and Providence Railroad Companies. Before leaving this section of the city notice should be taken of the new sys- tem of sewei'age. By this system the mouths t f the numerous common sewers which formerly opened into the ocean at different points along the water front of the city are connected by intercepting sewers which encircle the city, and join the new main sewer on the south side of the city. This main sewer, which is 3| miles long, ends at the Pumping Station at Old Harbor Point, on the sea- coast in Dorchester, about a mile from any dwelling. In flowing by gravita- tion to this point, the sewage descends from 11 to 14 feet below the elevation of low tide. To reach its final destination, about 2\ miles further, it is raised by pumping about 3.5 feet and flows through a tunnel under Dorchester Bay to Squantum, and thence through an open flume to Moon Island, where it is stored in a reservoir, and let out into the harbor twice a day at high water. The two principal evils of the old system are thus practically corrected. These were : First, the damming up of the common sewers by the tide, by which, for much of the time, they were converted into stagnant cesspools ; the air in tliem was compressed, and to find outlets was driven into house-drains and other openings. Second, the discharge of the sewage on the shores of the city in tlie immediate vicinity of population, thereby causing imisances at many points. It was estimated that in 1869 there were 100 miles of sewers in Bos- ton, and in 188G about 226 miles. 108 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. V. THE SOUTH END. I HE South End of Boston, as the term is now understood, is a district of residences. It is true that Washington Street, throughout its whole length, is largely given up to retail trade, and that a consid- erable amount of business is done on other streets. There are, too, here and there, large manufactories that are not to be overlooked. But, gener- ally speaking, Boylston Street divides the business of the city on the north from the residences on the south. It is impossible to predict how long this state of things will continue. Boston business is rapidly expanding, and the room to do it in must expand likewise. The current is setting decidedly to the south, and year by year new advances are made in that direction, by both wholesale and retail trade. But we must speak of the existing Hues of division ; and for our purposes we r e - gard at the pres- ent time as the South End, all the territory bounded on the north and west by Essex? Boylston, and Tremont streets, and the Boston and Albany Rail- road, and south by the old Roxbury Ihie. The face of the country in this part of the city is for the most part level ; and a very large part of the terri- tory was reclaimed from the sea. View in Chester Squaie. Many of the llorSC- cars continue to run to the " Neck," but the South End is no longer a neck of land. There are many Bostonians yet living who remember when Tremont Street was but a shell road across flats. Now it is a broad avenue, and lined with modern buildings. Only a few public spaces were reserved in this part BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 109 of the city. Franklin and Blackstone Squares are merely open spaces, — of great value, to be sure, for breathing purposes, but incapable, both from their small size and from their flatness, of being made very beautiful. Union Park, Worcester Square, and Chester Square have been made desirable for residence and for public resort by simple and inexpensive means. The last-named has long been a favorite street for dwelling-houses. Through the avenue runs a park, narrow at the ends, but swelling out in the centre, in which are trees and flowers, with a fountain and a fish-pond, making the place a deliciously cool and pleasant spot in midsummer. Most of the streets other than those we have named, though generally pleasant, are somewhat monotonous in their appear- ance. Their width and cleanness, however, and their air of quiet and repose, give a pleasing appearance to this large residence-quarter. The domestic archi- tectiu'e exemplifies that pecviliarity of Boston houses, the " swell front," in great variety, but lacks the picturesque diversity of the Back-Bay streets. Most of the houses are of brick, in long blocks ; and they are sometimes beautifully adorned with woodbine or ivy. The South-End buildings extend in solid ranks to the Providence Railroad, where they are stopped as evenly as if the rails were the waves of the deep sea. There are but few public buildings in this section of the city, and we begin by giving a view of one that should be characteristic of the district, as well as illustrative of the admirable school buildings for which Boston is celebrated, — the Latin and High School building, one of the latest and best school-houses provided by the city for the education of youth. This new School building is a structure that may well be termed imposing. It occupies the block bounded by Warren Avenue, Montgomery, Clarendon, and Dartmouth streets. The lot upon which it stands is a parallelogram, 423 feet long and 220 wide. Each of the two principal street fronts is divided into three pavilions, one central and two end, three stories in height with basements. The structure is of brick with sandstone trimmings, and exterior ornamentation, from designs of T. H. Bartlett, the sculptor, consisting mainly of terra-cotta heads in the gables of the dormer windows and terra-cotta frieze courses. There are main entrances from each street, in the central pavilions, and other entrances in each end pavilion. The school-rooms in the building number 48, 36 of which occupy the street fronts ; the others oi)ening into courts within the block. There are large library-rooms on the first floor of the central building, lecture halls on the floor above, and on the third floor assembly halls arranged in amphitheatre style. On the Montgomery Street front is the laboratory room of the English High School, with the lecture-room on the floor below. At the easterly end of the block is a large and admirably arranged drill-hall, and over this is the gymnasium. At the westerly end will ultimately be built a building for the accommodation of the school committee and its officers. The entrance to the latin School is on the Warren Avenue front, and that to the English High, on the Montgomery Street front. Both the main vestibules are decorated with statuary. On the Latin School side is the marble monument, designed by BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. Ill Richard S. Greenough, eommemoiatiug the Latin School boys in the war of the rebellion, and on the English High School side is a marble group by Benzoni, of the " Flight from Pompeii." The latter was the gift of Henry P. Kidder, a graduate of the school. The building was dedicated in February 22, 1881. Its cost thus far has been about 8750,000. William P. Clough was the archi- tect. The Latin School is the oldest in the country, first gathered in 1635, in the present School Street, and the English High was established in 1821. The Latin School for Girls and the Girls' High School occupy the school- building on West Newton Street originally built for the Girls High and Normal School, now separated. The building occupies a lot 200 feet on West Newton and the same on Pembroke Streets, and 154 feet in depth, and has a front on Girls' High Scliool, and Latin School for Girls. each street of 144 feet, and a depth of 131 feet. It has an abundance of rooms; ai-d collections of all kinds of articles necessary to the instruction here given. There are sixty-six separate apartments, exclusive of halls, passages and corridors. They are all well lighted and cheerful. The entire building is supplied with hot air, radiated from apparatus located in the cellar, and is ven- tilated in the most thorough manner. The large hall in the upper story has received, through the generosity of a number of ladies and gentleman, a large collection of casts of sculpture and statuary. The rooms are connected by electric bells and speaking-tubes. On the roof is an octagonal structure, which IB designed to be used as an astronomical observatory. In every respect this 112 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. school-house is suited to the purpose for which it was designed, and is a credit to the city. The Latin School for Giils was established in 1878 to furnish a traming for girls similar to that offered boys at the old Latin School. The Girls' High School was established in 1855 with the Normal School, and in 1872 the two were separated. The latter now occupies the Rice School build- ing on Dartmouth Street. On Newton Street, facing Frankhn Sqnare, is the building of the New Eno-- land Conservatory of Music, formerly the St. James Hotel. This institution was established in 1867 and for many years was located in the Music Hall building. It acquired the present building in 1882, and it occupies it entire. ^^^ ^a^^ The building of an ^r^^^^^t=^ _ C '" ?s=iisSi: addition at the rear j^ ' is contemplated, to :=^^^^~ contain a Music Hall, and the Great Organ built for the Music Hall on Win- ter Street has been purchased for it. As at present arranged the Conservatory )udding has a large ( oucert-hall, recita- tion and practice looms, library and leading rooms, and quarters for pupils who board in the establishment. The Conservatory em- braces 16 separate schools, with a college of music for advanced pupils. The number of regular pupils is very large. Eben Tourjee is the director. Washington Street, after winding through the busiest part of the city, be- tween Haymarket Square and Boylston Street, passes on to the southwest, along the line of the narrow isthmus which formerly united Boston with the mainland. This strip of land was formerly known as " the Neck," and still re- tains the name, although the water has long since been pushed back out of sight. The chief town-guard was formerly at the line of the present Dover Street, where a fortified wall was raised, defended by artillery, and provided with a ponderous fortress-gate. From these batteries and others adjacent the British garrison, during the siege of 1775, cannonaded the American lines at Roxburj^, and sliattered liouses there. The front view from Dover Street now includes the great stone Catholic Cathedral, which rises far above all the adjacent houses. Washington Street is largely devoted, through the South End, to petty New England Conservatory of Music. BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 113 trading, and the chief buildings visible are the large hotels and apartment- houses. Opposite the handsome marble front of the Hotel Comfort, near the former Roxbury line, is an ancient and neglected gra\eyard which should be sacred to every New-Englander, since it enshrines the remains of John Eliot, the Apostle to the Indians. The growth and change of tliis part of the city appears when we remember that in ancient times wharves were built along the seaward side of Washington Street, from Beach Street to Dover Street, and the bowsprits of the vessels often obstructed the highway; and that in the year 1800 there were but two houses between the site of the new Cathedral and Roxbury. The Cathedral of the Holy Cross, above alluded to, is on Washington and Maiden streets, and is the largest church in New England. It v.as begun in 1867, and completed in five years. P. C. Keeley was the architect. The material is variegated Rox- bury stone, and the arcliitecture is the early Eng- lish Gothic, the structure covering more ground than the cathedrals of Strasburg, Pisa, Vienna, Venice, or Salisbury. The interior is grandly effective, and is divided by lines of bronzed pillars which uphold a lofty clere-story and an open timber roof. The chan- cel is very deep, and contains a rich and costly altar ; and the great organ, at the other end of the church, is one of the best instruments in the country. Th.e im- mense windows are nearly all filled with stained glass, both foreign and American, repre- senting various scenes and char- acters in Chris- tian liistory. The stained glass is defended by heavy plate- glass two or tliree inches out- side of it, which also aids in equalizing the Cathedral of the Holy Cross, temperature within. The chancel windows show forth the Crucifixion, Nativity, and Ascension, and the transept windows, each of which covers eight hundred square feet, represent tlie Finding of the True Cross, and the Exaltation of the 114 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. Cross by the Emperor Heraclius, after its recovery from the Persians. The height of the nave is one hundred and twenty feet, and beneath it are the class- rooms and chapels, and the crypt for the burial of bishops. The great organ is built around the rose-window on the west. It has 5,292 pipes and nearly 100 stops, and is of remarkable purity of tone. The chantry, with a smaller organ, is near the chancel and the archiepiscopal throne. The Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament is a beautiful little architectural gem, at the northeast corner of the building, and the Chapel of the Blessed Virgin is at the southeast corner. In the rear of the cathedral is the mansion of the archbishop. The ponderous towers on the front of the cathedral are to be surmounted by ornate spires, re- spectively 300 and 200 feet high (as shown in our engraving), which will doubt- less be landmarks for many leagues. Probably something of the same sjiirit that led the Old South Society to insert over its church-door a tablet recording the fact that it was " desecrated by British soldiers " during the Revolution, and that led the people of the old Brattle Square Church to build the caimon- ball from Bunker Hill into the wall of their edifice the removal of which was so regretted, has inspired the Roman Catholics to construct a part of the wall of this cathedral with brick from the ruins of the Ursuline Convent which oc- Clty Hospital. cupied a picturesque site in Somerville, on a hill just beyond Charlestown neck, only a few years ago removed. That convent was burned in 1834 by a mob, and it was never rebuilt. The Normal Art School is on Washington Street, between Concord and Worcester Streets, in a building long known as the " Deacon House." This is a state institution, primarily a training school for teachers of drawing in the public schools of the state. A building especially for it is being erected on the corner of Exeter and Newbury Streets. George H. Bartlett is the director. The Commonwealth Hotel, on Washington Street between Worcester and BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 115 Springfield streets, is the leading one of the few hotels in this district. It is well and favorably known, especially as a winter residence for families. The naaterial of the front on each of these streets is marble. The hotel is finely finished and furnished throughout. On Harrison Avenue, east of Washington Street, and parallel with it, are several buildings of note. One of the most important is the Boston City Hos- pital, built 1861-64. The lot of land on which the buildings stand contains nearly seven acres, occupying the entire square bounded by Concord, Albany, and Sprhigfield streets, and Harrison Avenue. A large tract of land east of Albany Street is also occupied for hospital purposes. The hospital proper consists of a central building for administration, pay-patients, and surgical operating-room ; two pavilions connected with the central building by corridors ; and another pavilion for separate treatment. The architectural effect is fine. The institution receives and treats patients gratuitously, though many pay for their board, thereby securing separate apartments and additional privileges. From three to five thousand patients are received into the building yearly, be- sides about ten thousand out-patients ; and the cost to the city is sometimes more than ■$ 100,000 a year. On Harrison Avenue, nearly opposite the City Hospital, and not far from the Cathedral, are the Church of the Immaculate Conception and Boston College (wliich is under the auspices of the Jesuits), side by side. The church was be- gun in 1857, and dedicated in 1861. It is a solid structure of granite, without Church of the Immaculate Conception and Boston College. tower or spire. Above the entrance on Harrison Avenue is a statue of the Virgin Mary, while above all stands a statue of the Saviour, with outstretched arms. The interior of this church is very fine. It is finished mainly in white, except at the altar end, where the ornamentation is exceedingly rich and in very high colors. The organ is regarded as one of the most brilliant in the 116 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. city. This oliureh has always been noted for the excellence of its music. The College was incorporated in 1863, and has been very successfnl. Treniont Street lias been widened at great expense, but no art could avail to straighten it. A short distance south of the Common it passes the head of Mollis Street, down which the HoUis Street Theatre is seen. This occupies the site of the old HoUis Street Church. It was built in 1885 and opened Nov. 9th with the first performance in Boston of " The Mikado." It is one of the most inviting playhouses in the city, substantially built, and tastefully deco- rated. Its seating cajjacity is 1,650. Isaac B. Rich is manager. Just beyond Hollis Street, Treinont Street diverges to the right, and its straight line is kept by Shawmut Avenue, which extends for more than eight miles, to Dedhani, the beautiful old shire-town of Norfolk County. Looking down this avenue, one sees the spacious stone Church of the Holy Trinity, the place of worship of a society of German Catholics, whose tall and graceful spire contains a peal of bells. From Tremont Street soon after crossing the rail- road bridge, the two brick buildings of the Parker Memorial Hall and the Paine Memorial Hall appear on Chandler Street to the right. The first of these was erected by the admirers of Theodore Parker, and is occupied by a society of radical Unitarians. The Paine Memorial Hall perpetuates the name of Thomas Paine, and is used for a great variety of purposes. Tremont Street soon reaches the tall and imposing wliite granite front of the ^Kl'' Qdd Fellows' Building. Odd Fellows' Hall. This occupies a conspicuous site ou the corner of Berkeley BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 117 and Treinont streets. The corner-stone was laid in the summer of 1871, and the building was in due time completed, and dedicated. It covers about twelve thousand square feet, and is four stories in height. With the exception of a few offices, all the floors above the street story, which contains several large stores, are occupied by the Odd Fellows. There are audience, meeting, ban- quet, encampment and other halls with suitable and convenient (nt\nt stuct to be intersected is Berkeley Street, and near this point are several quite large apartment- hotels of the first class. The spacious build- ing of the First Presbyterian Church occupies one corner; the church and parsonage of the People's Church (Methodist) is on another ; and a little way beyond is the handsome stone structure occupied by Dr. Miner's Universa- hst Church, with its tall spire and stained windows. A few blocks further out is the Union Church (Congregational), a pictur- esque, ivy-covered stone building, of Gothic aichitecture, occupying the front of an entire square with its rambling group of church and chap- el, and adorned within with a high pitched roof of open - work timbers. Not far away, on War- ren Avenue, is the many- sided Church of the Dis- ciples, of which the Rev. James Freeman Clarke is the pastor; and one sqiuire farther to the north is the Warren Avenue Baptist Union Congregational Church, Columbus Avenue. Church West Chester Park is a broad and pleasant avenue, being built upon quite rapidly, which crosses Columbus Avenue near its southern end, and runs out across the Back Bay to Beacon Street and the Charles River. From the line of this street good views are afforded of the highlands and villages of the Rox- bury district and Brookline. BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 119 On the easterly edge of the district we have included in the South End is the new passenger station of the Boston and Albany railroad. Before this was built the old station had become altogether inadequate for the enormous business done by the road, and the city and state authorities urged the abandomnent of it, in order to avoid the delays and dangers to foot passengers on Kneeland Street. An unsuccessful attempt was made to have the tracks of the Albany and those of the Boston and Providence roads so changed as to make it possible to consolidate both passenger stations under one roof, the plan being to enlarge the Providence railroad station and make that the terminus for both roads, and then the Boston and Albany Company determined to build the new structure of its own. Tlie site is diagonally opposite the rear of the old station, on Knee- land Street. The new building was first occupied in the autumn of 1881. It is a fine structure, and furnishes ample accommodation for transacting the busi- ness of the road. The head house is 140 by 118 feet, and is three stories high ; and the summit of the roof is 80 feet above the ground. The first story is 23 feet, the second IG, and the third 14. The maui entrance is on Kneeland Street, and on the Lincoln Street side there is a covered carriage way. The train house Boston and Albany Railroad Station. is 450 feet long and of the same width as the head liouse. It has six tracks four of them 414 feet long, one 350 feet, and one 250 feet. These tracks are divided by fences on the platforms, which are designed to prevent confusion 120 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. among passengers ; and in order to still further guard against mistakes in tak- ing trains, each main gate to the train platforms is in-ovided with printed cards showing the stopping places of the trains in waiting, and a dial indicating the exact time of departure. A wing 32 by 90 feet, two stories high, on the Lincoln Street side, provides room on the lower story for baggage, and in the upper, quarters for conductors and brakemen. In the spring of 1886 the Newton Cir- cuit was opened. This was completed by connecting the Brookline and New- ton Highlands Branch with the main line at Riverside. It is twenty- three miles long, and runs through the attractive suburbs of Brookline and Newton. The Old Colony Railroad serves the entire south shore of Massachusetts, and Cape Cod ; and it also owns the railroad and steand)oat lines to New York, widely known as the " Fall River Line." The growth of both local and througli Old Colony Railroad Station. business on this line during the past few years has been very great, owing to the rapid increase of population along the line and the enterprising management of the company's att'airs. The passenger station of this road, on Kneeland Street, next beyond that of the Boston and Albany, makes no architectural pretensions externally, but within it is one of the best structures of the kind in the city. Near these important railroad stations is the United States Hotel, on Beach Street. Established many years ago, it has always enjoyed a fine reputation as a comfortable and admirably managed house. It is on the American plan. The oldest South End theatre, the " Windsor," is on the corner of Washing- ton and Dover Streets. It is a variety theatre. BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 121 VI. THE HARBOR. OSTON HARBOR is protected by the natural breakwater on which stands the town of Hnll. This is a singular peninsula, jutting north- ward from the South Shore, and partially enclosing an extensive body of water. Hull has several points of interest. Nantasket Beach, on the side of the peninsula towards the sea, is one of the finest on the coast, and it has become a favorite and very popular place of resort in the sum- mer. The summer popidation is largest at the lower or southern end of the peninsula, while the permanent population is mostly concentrated near the other extremity. On the high hill, which overlooks the entire entrance to Boston Harbor, is situated the observatory, from which the arrival of vessels, their names, and the point whence they come, are telegraphed immediately to the Chamber of Commerce in tlie city. Hull is one of the smallest towns in Massa- chusetts, and there have been many jokes at its expense on this account. The vote of the town is almost always one of the first returned at a general election. From this there has arisen the curious saying, " As goes Hull, so goes the State," — a saying which is very far from true. Dr. Holmes said in his " Auto- crat of the Breakfast-Table," that in this town they read a famous line with a mispronunciation pardonable under the circumstances, — " All are but parts of one stupendous Hull." The harbor of Boston is filled with islands, most of which have a history that it would be exceedingly interesting to recount. That of Castle Island, on which Fort Independence now stands, is more prominent in Colonial and Revo- lutionary annals than any other, both because it was the first island fortified and because it was so accessible from the town. This island was the scene of many a fatal duel in the olden time. Thompson's Island is remarkable for its fantastic shape, which has been likened to that of an unfledged chicken, and also for the numerous and protracted controversies that have taken place to settle the ownership of the island in the early days of the colony. Spectacle Island, so named from its form, was formerly used for quarantine purposes, but is now given up to the business of converting retired car horses into a vari- ety of useful products. Most of the islands were granted by the General Court, during the first years of the settlement of Boston, to persons who agreed to pay a yearly rental in shillings or rum for their use. Ultimately they became private property either by compounding for the yearly rent or by a sort of pre- emption which was accomplished without the aid of any other law than that of possession. Numerous .steamboats ply between the city and the places of resort in the harbor and just outside of it. For reasonable fees one may steam in and out X22 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. hot ween the several islands, and en- joy, on the most sultry of days, a eool and refreshing breeze, together with the most delightful and ever- changing scenery. Among a great many points of interest along the trip down the harbor, only a very few can be here mentioned. The first fort buUt upon Castle Island was constructed in 1634, and since that time the island has always been fortified. The works have been re- built a great many times. Castle William stood on this island when the Revolutionary war broke out, and when the British troops were obliged to evacuate Boston they de- stroyed the fort and burned it to ashes. The Provincial forces then took possession of the island, and = restored the fort. In 1797 its name -■- was formally changed to Fort In- j dependence, — the President, John §, Adams, being present on the occsi- sion. In 1798 the island was ceded to the United States. From 1785 until 1805 this fort was the place appointed for the confinement of prisoners sentenced to hard labor, provision having been made in the act of cession to the United States that this privilege should be re- tained. The present fort is of com- paratively recent construction. Directly opposite Fort Indepen- dence, as one enters or leaves the inner harbor by the main ship-chan- nel, is the still uncompleted forti- fication named Fort Winthrop, on Governor's Island. This island w^as granted to Governor Winthrop in 1032, and was subsequently cou- tirmed to his heirs. In 1640, the condition was made that he should BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 123 pay one bushel of apples to the Governor and one to the General Court in win- ter, annually. It continued in the sole possession of the Winthrop family until Fort li depf r Jl 1808, when a part of it was sold to the government for the purpose of erecting a fort, which was named fort Warren. Subsequently the name Fort Warren was transferred to the fortifications farther down the harbor, and the name of Fort Winthrop. Winthrop given to the work now in process of erection, in honor of the gov- ernor and the early owners of tlie island. When fully completed, Fort Win- throp is intended to be a most important defence to the harbor. The present Fort Warren is on George's Island, near the entrance to the harbor, and is the most famous of all the defences of the city. George's Is- land was claimed as tlie pro2)erty of James Pemberton, of Hull, as early as 1622. His possession of it having l)een confirmed, it was bought, sold, and in- herited by numerous owners, until 1825, when it became the property of the 124 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. city of Boston. It is now, of conrse, under the jurisdiction of the United States government. The construc- tion of the present fort was begun in April, 1833, and was completed in 1850. The material is finely ham- mered Quincy granite, and the stone faces, as well as those parts that have been protected with earth and sodded over, are as neat and trim as art can make them. The fort is one of great strength, but it has never yet been needed to defend the harbor of Bos- ton. During the Rebellion it was used as a place of confinement for noted Confederate prisoners, the most famous of all being the rebel commissioners to Europe, Mason and Slidel, wlio were sent here for . confinement after their capture on -Q board the Trent by Commodore X Wilkes. o About two miles from Fort War- o ren, nearly due east, and at the en- £ trance of the harbor, is the Boston t Light. The island on which it stands ^ has been used as a lighthouse sta- o tion since 1715, when the General u. Court of the colony passed the nec- essary acts. The laud was generous- ly given to the colony by the owners of it, though as there is soil on only about three quarters of an acre, the rest of the two or three acres being bare, jagged rock, the gift entailed no gi-eat loss upon them. In the time of the Revolution, the light- house was the object of much small warfare, and was several times de- stroyed and rebuilt. In 1783 it was once more I'cstored by the State, be- ing built this time of stone ; and it is this lighthouse which still stands at the mouth of the harbor, though it has since been enlarged and re- BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 125 fitted several times. The top of the lighthouse now stands ninety-eight feet above the level of the sea, and is fitted Avith a revohdiig light which can be deen from a distance of sixteen nautical miles in fair weather. Boston Light. StUl nearer to Fort Warren, and on the direct line to Boston Light is the Spit, or Bug Light. It is a etirious struc- ture. ^T^he lower part is a system of iron pillars fixed m the rock, affordm<> no surface for the waves to beat against anddestio\ The fixed red light is about thirty-h\( feet above the levex of the sea, and can be seen at a dis- tance of about seven miles in clear weather. This light was built in 1856 Bug Light. Its object is to warn navigators of the dangerous obstacle known as Harding's Ledge, about two miles out at sea, east of Point Allerton, at the head of Nantasket Beach. The lighthouse on Long Island was built in 1811). The tower is twenty-two 126 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. feet in height, but the light is eighty feet above the level of the sea. The tower is of iron, painted white ; the lantern has nine burners ; the light is fixed, and can be seen in a clear night about fifteen miles. There have been several Long Island Light. attempts to make Long Island a place for summer residences. In 1885 it was pun-h;vsed by the city, and public charitable institutions are to be established upon it. East of Long Island head there is a low, rocky island on which stands a sin- gularly shaped monument. It consists of a solid structure of stone, twelve feet in height, and forty feet square. All the stones in this piece of masonry are securely fastened together with copper. Upon it stands an octagonal pyramid of wood, twenty feet high, and painted black. It is supposed that this monu- ment was erected in the earliest years of the present century, though the date is not known. Its purpose was to warn vessels of one of the most dangerous shoals in the harbor. This Is- land is known as Nix's Mate, though for what reason is not known. There is a tradition, un- supported by facts, tliat the mate of a vessel of which one Captain Nix was master, was executed Nix's Mate. upon the island for killing the latter. But it was known as " Nixes Hand," as long ago as 163G, before any execution for mur- der or piracy had taken place in the colony, and this would seem to dispose of the story. Several pirates have since been hanged there. One William Fly was hanged there in chains in 172G for piracy, on which occasion, the Boston News Letter informs us, Fly " behaved himself very unbecomingly, even to the last." It is a part of the tradition above referred to that Nix's Mate declared his innocence, and asserted, as a proof of it, that the island would be washed away. If any such prophecy was ever made, it has certainly been fulfilled. We BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 127 know by the records that it contained in the neighborhood of twelve acres in 163G ; there is now not more than one acre of slioal, and there is not a vestige of soil remaining. Point Shirley is the southern extremity of the town of Winthrop, but it prop- erly comes into any notice of Boston harbor. Its chief attraction is Taft's Hotel, noted for its fish and game dinners. Indeed Point Shirley, ever since it received its present name, has been synonymous with good cheer. A company of merchants purchased it in 1753, designing to establish a fishery station. They never put the property to its intended use, but when they were ready to Point Shirley. advertise the place, they invited Governor Shirley to go down to the spot with them. He accepted, the party had a fine time and a fine dinner, and by per- mission of his Excellency, what had before been known as Pulling Point was dubbed Point Shirley. The name of Pulling Point has since been transferred to another point of land on the same peninstila. We have only glanced at the harbor and a few of the numerous places of in- terest in and about it. The islands in the harbor are many, and of very pecu- liar shapes, which fact has given some of them their names, — as, for instance. Spectacle, Half Moon, and Apple Islands. Few of them are occupied, and sev- eral are uninhabitable, but the sail among and around them is in the summer- time a most agreeable change from the hot brick walls and dusty streets of the city. If we extend our view beyond the harbor along the north shore we shall see Revere Beach, — one of the finest on the coast, — Lynn, and Nahant. Both the latter places may easily be visited by steamers. Nahant is perhaps the chief glory of the north shore. It is a peninsula connected with tlie main- land at Lynn by a long narrow neck, upon which is a noble beach. Those who dwell upon the peninsida regard its comparative uiaccessibility as somethmg sti-ongly in its favor. They have not allowed a large hotel to be erected upon it since the destruction by fire of one that formerly stood in the town. Nahant i» 128 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. a favorite resort for picnickers, for whom a place has been specially provided which is fantastically called Maolis Gardens, — Maolis being notliing more than Siloam spelled backwards. For the rest, Nahant is occupied by wealthy citi- zens of Boston who have erected for themselves in this secluded place elegant snniiner residences where, in the midst of their gardens and groves and lawns, they may live as freely and quietly as they wish. The sea-view is magnificent. The peninsula lies near to the entrance of Boston Harbor, and is practically an island at some distance from the coast. All the grandeur of the sea in a a storm, and all the beauty of the sea on a fine day when the horizon is dotted with the white sails of arrivmg and departing vessels, the dwellers at Nahant enjoy at their grandest and most beautiful. Beyond Nahant are Egg Rock, a small island still farther than Nahant from the coast ; Marblehead Neck and Pomt, which are rapidly commg into favor as siumner resorts ; Swampscott, already one of the most fashionable of the coast watering-places ; and Cape Ami, with its succession of beautiful sea-side villages, — Beverly Farms, Man- chester, Gloucester, Rockport, and Pigeon Cove. On the south coast we may find equally interesting and equally beautiful places. At Hingham, among other objects to be noticed, is the oldest church edifice in the country ; and off Cohasset is the famous Mmot's Ledge Lighthouse, a solid stone structure that stands where a former lighthouse was destroyed by a storm some years ago, on one of the most dangerous and most dreaded rocks upon our coast. VII. NEW BOSTON AND THE SUBURBS. E have already said that Boston has grown in territorial extent not only by robbing the sea, but by absorbing other outlying tracts of land and whole municipalities. The first addition of the latter kind was made in 1637, when Noddle's Island was " layd to Boston," and its name changed to East Boston. It was practically uninhabited, however, until 1833, when a company of capitalists bought the entire island and laid it out for improvement. Its growth since that time has been rapid, but it is still capable of great increase in population, as well as in wealth and business. A part of South Boston was taken from Dorchester in 1804 by the Legislature, much against the will of the people of that town, and annexed to Boston. Again, in 1855, the General Court added to the territory of the city by givmg to it that part of South Boston known as Washington Village. However, Bos- ton has now made peace with Dorchester by taking to itself all that re- mained of that ancient town. Roxbury, which had a history of its own, and a name which many of the citizens were exceedingly loath to part with, became a part of Boston on the 0th of January, 1868. It was incorporated as a town but a few days after Boston, it was the home of many distinguished men in the annals of Massachusetts and the country, and it took a glorious part in the sev- eral struggles iu which the Colonies and the Union were engaged. In the old times, when that narrow neck of land to which we have repeatedly alluded in the previous pages, was the only connection between Boston and Roxbury, there were good reasons why the two should be under separate governments ; but long ago the two cities had met, and joined each other. Dorchester was incor- porated the same day as Boston. It too had its history, and but for the mani- fest advantages to both municipalities of a union, might have retained its sep- arate existence. The act of union, passed by the Legislature in June, 1869, was accepted by the voters of both places the same month, and the union was consummated on the 3d of January, 1870. The Legislature of 1873 passed separate acts annexing Charlestown, West Roxbury, Brookline, and Brighton, to Boston, each case being made independent of the others and dependent upon the consent of the parties to the union. Only Brookline uttered a " nay " to the wooer, and the other three became parts of Boston at the begimiing of 1874. It is with a few among the many objects of interest in these outlying parts of Boston, and iu the suburbs, that we shall have to do in this chapter. One of the most interesting of the public institutions in the city is the Per- kins Institution and Massachusetts Asylum for the Blind, at South Boston. It 9 130 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. has been more than fifty years in operation with uninterrupted and most re- markable success. It was instituted in 1831. In the following year, Dr. Sam- uel G. Howe undertook its organization; and began operations with sLs blind children as the nucleus of a school. For a year the institution was greatly ham- pered by a lack of funds ; but a promise of an annual grant by the Legisla- ture, a generous sum raised by a ladies' fair, and liberal contributions by the ,^ people of Boston^ speedily settled the financial question and opened a pe- riod of prosperity a n d usefulness which has c o n - tinned to the pres- ent time. Won- ders have been accomplished i n the institution in the instruction of unfortunate youth deprived of sight; and in some cases, notably that of Laura Bridgman the absence of the sense o f hearing also has not been an insuperable ob- stacle to learning. Pe.kins Institution for the Blind. Tllis asylum WaS under the direction of Dr. Howe, its founder, until his death in 1877, and a great deal of the success of the experiment is to be credited to liis pecidiar fit- ness for the position, and to his devotion to its interests. His son-in-law, Mr. Michael Anagnos, is at present at the head of the institution as Superintendent. The main building is situated on high ground on Mount Washington. Of late years the plan of the institution has been changed. The sexes are entirely sep- arated, the women occupying dwelling-houses built for the purpose. The in- mates, of both sexes, are divided into families, each of which keeps a separate account of its expenses. The Asylum is partly self-supporting, such of the pupils as are able to pay maintainmg themselves as at a boarding-school, and all the pupils being taught some useful trade. Several States, particidarly the New England States, pay for the support of a large number of beneficiaries. In East Boston are the extensive terminal improvements of the Boston and Albany railroad made since the purchase by the company of the Grand June- BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 131 tion railroad and wharf. The railroad forms a connpction between the main line of the Boston and Al- bany, and the Fitchburg, Lowell, Eastern, and Bos- ton and Maine railroads, and gives the Albany road a deep - water connection. Wlieat - trains from the • West are here emptied of their contents by macliin- ery directly into an eleva- tor wliich has a capacity of a million bushels, from which in turn vessels may be rapidly loaded. Ample facilities are afforded for loading and unloading the Cunard and other lines of steamships ; while the facil- ities for the reception and dispatch o f immigrants here are unequalled by those of any other city on the continent. Immigrants who are to continue their journey by land into other States are provided wth every comfort, and are completely secluded from sharpers, who are always on the look-out for an op- portunity to swindle, until they are sent a w a y in trains over the Grand Junc- tion and the Boston and Albany roads without be- ing compelled even to pass through the city. The amount of business trans- acted at this wharf is im- mense. The railroad and wharves were built in 1850- 51, and on the occasion of their opening a tlvree days' jubilee was held in Boston, in which many nota- 132 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. bles, the President of the United States among tlieni, First Church in Roxbury, and the Norfolk House. converge, is a small park in the Roxbury district, \v points of interest. Here stand? the old Unit a r i a n meeting-house of the first ehuroh in Roxbury, taking rank in age next after the first church in Boston. Over this church the Rev. Dr. George Putnam was settled as pastor for over forty years. The dwelling-houses in this square are many of them old, this part of the Roxbury district ha\nng been set- tled long before the over-crowded streets of Boston sent thousands of the citizens to seek sites for modern villas on the more picturesque hillsides of this and other suburban districts of the city and towns. On this square, too, stands the Norfolk House, a fine building externally, and a favorite boarding-hotel. One of the most important impi-ovo- meiits in tlie Cochit- nate Water- Works was made in 1869, when the stand-pipe in the Roxbury dis- trict was erected and put in use. By Stand-Pipe of CochitU3le Water-Works. participated. But the enterprise did not pay. And when the present own- ers came into pos- session of the prop- erty in 1868, no train had been run over the road in fourteen years. Vast improve- ments have been made since then. Eliot Square, in- to wliich Dudley, Roxbury, and Highland Streets hich possesses several this simple expe- dient, wliich has been found to work ad- mirably in practice, the " head " of water is increased over the whole city so greatly that the water is forced to the liigliest levels occupied by dwelling-houses. The stand-pipe is on the " Old Fort " lot in Roxbury, between Beech - Glen Avenue a n d Fort Avenue. BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 133 The base of the shaft is 158 feet above tide marsh level. The interior pipe is a cylinder of boiler iron, eighty feet long ; and around this pipe, but withm the exterior wall of brick, is a winding staircase leading to a lookout at the top. The total cost of the structure and the puniping-works connected with it was about $100,000. It was at first mtended to supply high service to only those parts of the city at the higher levels, but its capacity was found adequate to the supply of the whole city, and the use of the old reservoir on Beacon Hill was therefore abandoned. The Roxbuiy district always had a good reputation for remembering its great men. We have still in this district Dudley, Eustis, and Warren Streets, and numerous others named in memory of distinguished citizens. General Joseph Warren has been especially remembered, for besides the street which bears his name, tliere is a steam fire-engine called after him, and the dwelling- house that stands on the spot where his house stood, bears a tablet commem- orating the fact. Tlie house stands in a charming site behind a row of fine old trees. The Dorchester district was a delightful old town, and is a charming new district of the city. It retains many of its ancient characteristics, and some of its quaint old houses are still preserved. Since its annexation to the city it has been rapidly built up, and it is now a district of pleasant rural homes and charming country houses, with many of the conveniences and comforts of the city. Its picturesqixe hills and fine old woods have made it headquarters It was previ- ously the res- idence of Col- onel John Vassal, a Royalist o r Tory, but was used by Gen- e r a 1 Wash- ington on its abandonment Residence of the late H. W. Longfellow. bvthe owner* and here continued to be the headquarters of the American army for the greater part of the time, until the evacuation of Boston by the British in the spring of 1776. The house stands in a large and beautiful lot of groiuid, a lit- tle distance from the street, in the midst of tall trees and shrubbery, and though in a style of architecture differ- ent from that now generally em- ployed, it is still an elegant residence in external appear- ance, while the rich and costly finish of the interior has been preserved by its successive own- ers. The poet Henry Wadsworth Longfellow was long the possessoi and occupant of this house, and here he died in the spring of 1882. Entrance to Mount Auburn. 150 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. Mount Auburn Cemetery is situated partly in Cambridge and partly in Wa- tertown. The laud was originally purchased and improved by the Massachu- setts Horticultural Society for an experimental garden. It subsequently passed into the hands of the trustees of Mount Auburn Cemetery, and was consecrated in the year 1831. It is now one of the most extensive cities of the dead used by the people of Boston, being in extent about one hundred and twenty-five acres. The surface is remarkably diversified, giving unusual opportunities to the landscape-gardener to improve the natural beauty of the scenery. There are several sheets of water, and high hills and deep vales in abundance. Trees in great variety have been transplanted into this enclosure, adding greatly to its _^^^ beauty. Upon the summit of the high- est hill. Mount Au- burn proper, a stone tower has been erected, from which a very fine view of all the surrounding coimtry can be ob- tained. Many ele- g a n t and costly monuments adorn the ground in every part. Some of these have been erected and the expense de- frayed by p u b 1 i c subscription, but Chapel, Mount Auburn. many moi'c by Sur- viving friends of the thousands who here sleep the last sleep. The granite entrance-gate was designed from an Egyptian model, and was erected at a cost of about $10,000. The very beautiful chapel was built in 1848, at an expense of $25,000. It is used for funeral services at the cemetery. There are around the walls, within, several excellent statues and memorials, one of which, a statue of James Otis, by Crawford, is particularly to be ad- mired. Brookline is one of the most beautiful of the suburban towns surrounding Boston, and furnishes a large proportion of the deliglitful drives in which the city residents indulge. It also possesses one of the finest specimens of church architecture in the state. The Harvard Church, of which we give a represen- tation, is a beautiful edifice both without and within, the interior being very highly ornamented, but in a tasteful manner, and furnished with a magnifi- cent organ behind the chancel, which adds much to the artistic effects with its decorated pipes, which are all exposed to view. This church is somewhat BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 151 peculiar in being neither a " free " church, in the ordinary sense, nor one supported by taxes. A combination of both systems is m operation, and works well. It is by no means to be understood that in our glance at the suburbs we have exliausted the subject. There are a great many other points that should be visited. The magnificent beach at Revere is of itself a sight well worth the time spent in driving tliither. A short visit should be made to Lynn, the head- quarters of the shoe manufacture, and another to the extensive factories of Harvard Congregational Church, Brookline. 152 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. Lowell and Lawrence. In the church at QiiincY are the tombs of the two Pres- idents, John and John Quincy Adams. Newton, Belmont, and Arlington are most beautiful towns, and in all tlie environs are charming drives through the pleasantest of districts. At Watertown is the great United States Arsenal ; the battle-groimds of Concord and Lexing-ton are within easy reach by rail- road ; and, in fact, no route can be taken out of the city that does not lead to some point where the stranger will tind much that is both pleasing and in- terestinff. BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 153 VIII. A GROUP OF SUBURBAN RIDES. ilHERE are several horse-car routes leading through scenes of rich suburban beauty. Among the favorite lines are those leading to Grove Hall and the Dorchester District, a distance of about five miles, requiring an hour for the outward trip, which costs only five cents. Many of the cars pass down Tremont Street, by the Common. Those on one line pass through Tremont to Dover Street, in front of Odd Fellows' Hall, where they diverge sharply to the eastward, and run down to Wash- ington Street, following that street to the south, passing the Cathedral, and the Commonwealth Hotel, and the old cemetery in which Eliot is buried, and soon afterwards begin to ascend the long slopes of Boston Highlands, on Warren Street, through a wide district of pleasant suburban homes. The country grows more open, and the estates are larger and more park-like the farther the car goes, and after passing the handsome grounds of Grove Hall, the route lies over high ground with the hill-country of Milton often in sight. The terminus of the line is near the old Second Church, and by walkmg a little way beyond, to Welles Avenue, and ascendmg thereon to Ocean Street, a fine view of the harbor and sea, the southern suburbs and the Blue Hills, may be gained. The other line passes out of the city along Shawmut or Columbus Avenues, but in the Roxbury District the two pass over practically the same route. Another pleasant ride, the cost of which is very light, is that to Milton Lower Mills, a distance of about six miles. The cars on this route leave the head of Franklin Street, corner of Washington, every half hour, and run through Fed- eral Street to South Boston, where they enter upon the long Dorchester Ave- nue, and traverse a region occupied by workers in iron and wood, — the Nor- way Iron Works, and other large manufacturing establishments. Leaving this crowded selvage of South Boston, the more open streets of Washington Village are followed, with frequent views over the South Bay on the right, and Boston Harbor on the left. The villas of Savin Hill soon appear on the left, and the line closely approaches an arm of Dorchester Bay. Beyond the station at Field's Corner, the country becomes more open, and several handsome es- tates are passed. The track is so far to the side of the avenue that the trees hang over it, and there is a strip of grass between it and the roadway. At Ashmont the avenue crosses a bridge over the Shawmut Branch of the Old Colony Railroad. A mile farther, and the car enters the pretty village of Milton Lower Mills, passing two or three of its churches, and stopping on the brow of the hill, over the Neponset River. At the foot of the street is the large and handsome factory in which Baker's chocolate is made. But the 154 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. crowning beauty of this excursion is found by crossing the Neponset River (which is here the boundary of Boston), and ascending the Quincy road for abovit half a mile, whence one can get a magnificent view of Boston Harbor and its many islands, the open sea, the blue Neponset winding through broad meadows, and the villages which stud the territories of Qumcy and the Dor- chester District. It is not far from three miles by this road over Milton Hill to Quincy, and a continuous line of stately old mansions and parks is passed, with immense velvety lawns, clumps of ancient trees, and abounding evidences of the most skillful landscape-gardening. A much shorter ride in this same direction, but one affording considerable gratification, is that to Meeting-House HiU, by the horse-cars which leave the corner of Bedford and Washington Streets. Meeting-House Hill is an inter- esting locality, with its venerable church, the Dorchester soldiers' monument, and a group of handsome public buildings. It is also reached by the route from the head of Franklin Street. A fine view of the harbor is enjoyed from this point ; and it is not much more than half a mile to Savin Hill, a pictur- esque eminence surrounded on three sides by the water, and covered with villas. The route to Forest Hills is about five miles long, and begins at the Tremont House, passing by Tremont and Dover streets to Washington Street, which it follows for four miles, passing some fine estates, the great Notre-Dame Acad- emy, the New-England Hospital for Women and Children, and other hand- some suburban institutions ; traversing the edge of the village of Jamaica Plain ; and terminating not far from the entrance to Forest Hills Cemetery (see page 139). Conveyances also run from the terminal station to the Mount Hope Cemetery, nearly a mile beyond, but somewhat irregularly. The Jamaica Plain route is about five miles long, and runs from the Tremont House for over two miles and a half along Tremont Street. At Tremont Sta- tion it diverges to the left on to Pynchon Street, where a half-mile of breweries and German houses is passed. At the junction of Centre Street the great City Stables are seen on the left. The track here turns on to Centre Street, and soon crosses the sunken line of the Providence Railroad, near a house wiiich dates from about 1720. The cars thereupon enter a delightful region of villas and open fields, passing the stately building of the Russell School, and ap- proaching the village of Jamaica Plain. Several handsome churches are seen, on either side of the street, several attractive country places, and the mansion once made famous as the home of S. G. Goodrich (Peter Parley). The beau- tiful Jamaica Pond (see page 138) is a short walk to the right, down Pond Street. A little farther on is the large and showy building formerly used as the town-hall ; and near it is the West Roxbury soldiers' monument, opposite the dignified old Unitarian Church. Stages connect with the cars at this point, and run out tlu-ough a mile or more of picturesque wooded country, to the celebrated AUandale Mineral Spring. The old Brookline horse-car route is four miles long, starting from the Tremont House, and following Tremont Street nearly all the way. There are BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 155 a few fine old places on that part o£ the line which crosses the north slopes of Parker Hill, and there is also the lofty Church of Our Lady of Perpetual Help, which is so conspicuous in views of this region of the environs. The interior of this church is worth visiting, in order to see the massive pillars of polished granite which separate the nave from the aisles. By following the main street from the terminal station, one soon comes in sight of the Brookline Town Hall, a beautiful and attractive stone building of modern erection. It is about a mile from the end of this horse-car line to Beacon Street, by way of Harvard Street, and the route leads past numerous delightful estates and suburban houses. The new line from Boston, passing by the Tremont House, and out by the way of the Back Bay District and Huntington Avenue, is the most direct to Brookline. On reaching Beacon Street, one may walk out to the left to the Chestnut Hill Reservoir (page 137) less than two miles ; or return to the city by way of the Mill Dam, about three miles, by going along Beacon Street to the right ; or, better still, if the day is clear, turn to the left on Beacon Street, and follow it a short distance to the divergence of Summit Hill Av- enue on the right, and ascend thereon to the crest of Corey's Hill, whence is obtained one of the grandest views in eastern Massachusetts, including not only Boston and her suburbs, and the sea, but also the rural towns to the west for many leagues, even to the blue peak of far-away Wachusett. The Highland line, with its handsome plaided cars, traverses Columbus Ave- nue (cars with silvered platform-backs), and gives a comprehensive view of that part of the city, with its handsome residence-blocks and modern churches. This line also controls the rails along Shawmut Avenue, and runs its cars out to Grove Hall, as already stated, and other parts of the Roxbury district. The South Boston line to City Point gives a view of the peninsula wards, and a pleasant prospect over the harbor. The cars run by different routes through the city proper ; some making " the circuit " through Tremont Street, across the head of ScoUay Square, Cornhill and Wasliiugton Street, and passing tlirough Summer, and other busy streets, to the bridge over Fort Point Channel, whence they soon reach Broadway, the mam street of South Boston. Others start from Brattle Square ; and others from Park Square opposite the Provi- dence Station, passing over the new Broadway extension bridge. Passing the Catholic Church of SS. Peter and Paul, and traversing a long district of retail shops, the line along Broadway soon begins the ascent of Mount Washington, the ancient Dorchester Heights, near whose top is a group of churches, St. Matthews' Episcopal, the Methodist Centenary, the Fourth Baptist, the Phil- lips Congregational, the Hawes Congregational, and the Church of Our Father (Unitarian). Where the track bends to the left, the visitor may get off and ascend, by the Carney Hospital (Catholic), to the park on the crest of the heights, where the site of Washington's batteries is marked by a granite tablet. The view from this point is very beautiful, and includes the harbor, with its islands and forts, the open sea, Dorchester Bay and the Blue Hills, and the metropolis of New England, with all its broad and populous suburbs. The 156 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. Perkins Institution for the Blind is not far from this park, and fronts on Broad- way (see page 129). A little way farther out on Broadway is Independence Square, a handsome park covering a quarter of a million feet, nearly sur- rounded by neat residences, and on the lower side approached by the grounds of the Boston Lunatic Asylum and other public buildings. Three blocks be- yond this point is the end of the peninsula, with seaward-facing beaches and public grounds, and a great number of places where boats and skippers may be hired. Fort Independence is quite near this shore, and the other harbor isl- ands are seen beyond, on either side, with the wide expanse of Dorchester Bay on the south, overlooked by the Blue Hills of Milton. Off City Point are the mooring-grouuds of most of the yachts belonging to the Boston, Dorchester, and South-Boston Yacht Clubs. Revere Beach is the nearest to Boston of all the sea-beaches, and may be reached by the narrow-gauge railroad from Atlantic Avenue, the Eastern Railroad, or by the horse-cars through ScoUay Square (fare, ten cents). The latter route leads through Charlestown, giving views of the Soldiers' Mon- ument and Bunker-Hill Monument, and then crosses the Mystic River on a long bridge, and traverses the city of Chelsea, passing the grounds of the Ma- rine Hospital and crossing the public square near the business centre. Soon the Chelsea Highlands (the ancient Powder-Horn Hill) are seen rising on the left, crowned by a large building, formerly a summer hotel, and now the new Soldiers' Home, wliich commands an extensive view over Boston and the har- bor, with the northern en\'irons. Crossing Mill River, the line enters the town of Revere, and after a short run through an open country and a part of the hamlet turns to the eastward, and soon reaches the beach, near several of the hotels. Beyond the point where the horse-cars diverge from Broadway the Lymi and Boston horse-cars continue along the old Salem Turnpike to the city of Lynn, and out as far as Swampscott, the Long Branch of Boston. Somerville is traversed by three steam railroads, and also by horse-car lines, one of which departs from ScoUay Square, crosses Charlestown, and, near Charlestown Neck, one branch diverges to Union Square, wliile another con- tinues over the Neck to Winter Hill. Another line is from Bowdoin Square tlirough East Cambridge, to West Somerville, passing also through Union Square ; and still others by the new Charles River lines from Park Square, through Cambridgeport, Inman Square to Union Square, and Beacon Street, Somerville, to Porter's Station. The Winter Hill line runs through a pleasant district, after leaving Charlestown, passing the site of the Ursuline Convent on Mount Benedict, the prettily planned Sefton Park, and a great number of neat wooden residences. Away to the left the Somerville City Hall, High School, and Unitarian Church are seen ; and on the right is the populous Mystic Val- ley. After a long and slow ascent the car reaches the top of Winter Hill, the site of one of the American batteries during the siege of Boston, and command- ing a fine view over the northern suburbs. A walk of two and a half miles straight out on Broadway leads to the village of Arlington (see below), whence BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 157 horse-cars may be taken over another route to Boston, This walk leads along the old stage-road to Keene, New Hampshire, and passes to within two miles of Medford, which is long seen on the right, and much nearer to and in plain sight of the high-placed buildings of Tufts College. It also passes close to the Old Wayside Mill, the most picturesque bit of antiquity in all the Boston enwons. This venerable tower was built about one hundred and seventy years ago, as a windmill for grinding corn, and in 1747 became a provincial powder-house, from which, in 1774, Gage's British troops removed 250 half-barrels of powder. There are several interesting traditions coimected with this antique stone struc- ture, one of which is recorded in Drake's " Historic Fields and Mansions of Middlesex." The large and handsome village of Arlington, with its prettily grouped spires, its blue lakelet, and its memorial tablets recording the scenes in the Con- cord-Lexington march wliich occurred within her borders, is reached by hourly horse-cars from Bowdoin Square, Boston (fare 10 cents cash ; no tickets sold). The line crosses the West-Boston Bridge, and passes through Cambridgeport and over Dana Hill to Harvard Square, where it goes round two sides of the College-grounds, and gives a fine view of many of the most important buildings. Then the Common is skirted, and the Soldiers' Monument, Washington Elm, and Shepard Church are seen on the left. Beyond Harvard Square the route is over North Avenue, a long and wide boulevard, lined with trees and hand- some villas, and affording a succession of pleasant prospects. Upon reaching Arlington (anciently called Menotmny), an hour can be passed very satisfacto- rily in rambling about the clean, quiet, and umbrageous streets of that ancient village. About a mile and a half beyond is the crest of Arlington Heights, reached by good roads and crowned by villas ; and therefrom is obtained a grand view, including all Boston and her suburbs and the attendant sea, on the east, and on the west a vast expanse of green and rolling farm and forest country, studded with white villages and blue ponds, and bounded by the dis- tant but clearly discernible peaks of Watatic, Wachusett, and Monadnock. The routes to the Brighton District and Watertown are among the most in- teresting out of Boston ; and the latter part of the Mount Auburn route, from Harvard Square to the Cemetery, is not surpassed in artificial beauty and his- toric charm. Wrote Sir Charles Dilke : " It is not only in the Harvard pre- cincts that the oldness of New England is to be remarked. Although her peo- ple are everywhere in the vanguard of all progress^ their country has a look of gable-ends and steeple-hats, while their laws seem fresh from the hands of Alfred. In all England there is no city which has suburbs so gray and ven- erable as the elm-shaded towns around Boston, Dorchester, Chelsea, Nahant, and Salem." 158 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. IX. PRACTICAL NOTES. HOTELS. fiHE Vendome on Commonwealth Avenue and Dartmouth Street. One of the most elegant hotels in New England. Charges 84.50 a day. (See page 65.) The Brunswick, corner of Clarendon and Boylston Streets, charges a day. (See page 65.) The Parker House on School Street, Young's Hotel on Court Avenue, Court Square, and Court Street, and the Adams House, 555 Washington Street ; large, first-class houses, conducted on the European plan, centrally located and much patronized. Single rooms from $1 to $3 a day ; suites from $5 to $15. (See pages 83 and 89.) The Tremont House, corner of Tremont and Beacon Streets, and the Revere House on Bowdoin Square (see pages 39 and 20) ; the former charges $4 a day ; and the latter, from .f 3.50 to $4.50 a day. The American House, on Hanover Street (page 19), has 400 rooms, and its rates are $3 a day. The United States Hotel, conveniently situated on Beach Street, one block from the new Albany Station ; charges from $3 a day upwards. The Quiucy House, on Brattle Square, one of the older liouses, having a rep- utation for comfortable rooms and an excellent table ; charges from $2.50 a day upwards. The Commonwealth Hotel (page 114) at the corner of Wasliington and Worcester Streets. Rates $3 to $4 a day. The Clarendon Hotel at 521 Tremont Street, pleasantly situated in a quiet part of the city, charges from $2.50 a day upwards. The Crawford House at the corner of Court and Brattle Streets, and the International Hotel nearly opposite the Globe Theatre, are kept on the Euro- pean plan, and their charges are moderate. There are several other minor hotels in the city, most of them cleanly and well situated, where the prices are lower than those above quoted. The pri- vate boarding-houses of the best class are for the most part on and near Bea- con Hill, and at the South End ; and several of those on the Hill take boarders for terms of a few weeks. Among the most notable restaurants are Parker's, with a spacious dining- room for ladies, in addition to the public and private dining-rooms and cafe for gentleme« ; the Adams House, with a large general dining-room ; Young's, with several large dining-rooms and cafe, with a sumptuous dining-room for BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 159 ladies from the Court Street entrance ; Ober's, on Winter Place (off Winter Street), where the Parisian cuisine is used ; Perkins's, on Tremont Street, be- tween Mason and Boylston Streets. Confectionery and ices (besides more sub- stantial food) may be obtained at Weber's and Dooling's, on Temple Place ; Fera's, 1G2 Tremont Street ; and the Copeland restaurants, 128 Tremont Street and 467 Washington Street. These places are much visited by ladies. There are also scores of restaurants in the business quarter, many of whicli are first-class in every respect ; a group of French restaurants on Van Rensselaer Place, off Tremont Street, just above Boylston ; Vercelli's, an Italian restau- rant, at 88 Boylston Street, and numerous German and French restaurants down town. , THEATRES, HORSE-CARS, AND HARBOR STEAMERS. The Theatres. The Boston Theatre is on Washington Street, between West and Boylston Streets ; the Bijou two doors south ; the Globe on the same square, on the other side of the street ; the Park, nearly opposite the Globe ; the Windsor on Washington just above Dover, east side ; the Museum on Tremont Street, between School and Court Streets (see also pages 84, 88-90, 120) ; the Howard Athenaeum on Howard Street, near Scollay Square ; the Hollis, the newest theatre, on Hollis Street. For Music Hall and the Tremont Temple see pages 85 and 87 ; Horticultural Hall, page 86. Horse-cars leave the Tremont House or Temple Place, or pass alone Tre- mont Street every few minutes for the northern railway stations, Chelsea Ferry, East Boston, Beacon Street, Northampton Street by way of Boylston and Dart- mouth Streets, Lenox Street, .Jamaica Plam, Brookline, Forest Hills, Grove Hall, Mount Pleasant, Dorchester, Egleston Square, and other points in the Roxbury and Dorchester suburbs ; and for Brighton by way of Charles Street, every half hour. The Milton Lower Mills and some of the South Boston cars leave from the Old South Church. The Winter Hill, Maiden, Everett, Re- vere Beach, City Point, Charlestown, Lynn, Swampscott, and other lines to the northern suburbs, leave Scollay Square and the station in Cornhill. The Cam- bridge, Brighton, Harvard Square, Arlington, Watertown, and Mount Au- burn lines, with others to the western suburbs, run from Bowdoin Square, or Park Square, several lines passing tlirough Scollay Square. There are cross- town lines connecting and including these termini, and a transfer Ime from Northampton Street by way of Chester Park to the head of Commonwealth Avenue. Also a line from Park Square to City Point, South Boston, by way of Columbus Avenue, Berkeley, and Dover Streets. The Harbor Steamboats leave their wharves on Atlantic Avenue for their various destinations. The lines to Hull, Strawberry Hill, Hingham, Downer Landing, and Nantasket Beach, run from Rowe's Wharf, which is reached by horse-cars marked " Atlantic Avenue." Steamers to Nahant and other points leave from wharves near by. 160 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. COACHES AND CABS. The Citizens' Line runs from Northampton Street, to the foot of Salem Street, Charlestown, every tliree minutes, from 5.45 A. M. to 9.30 p. m. Return every tliree minutes, from 6.15 A. m. to 10.30 p. m. During the summer season " barges " run from Bovv^doin Square to the har- bor steamboat wharves. Herdics, small, two-seated cabs, "Standards," and other cabs of similar pattern, carry passengers from point to point within the old city limits for twenty-five cents each. There are several stands in the city where they are to be found, notably ScoUay, Pemberton, Bowdoin, and Post-Office Squares, Boyl- ston Street corner of "Washington, near the hotels, and at the railway stations ; and they can at any time, night or day, be called by telephone. HACK FARES. The regulations apply to adult passengers. From one place to another in the old portion of the city, within East Boston, within South Boston, and with- in Roxbury, the fare is 50 cents for each passenger, and as much more for every additional passenger. ' For one adult, from any point south of Dover Street and west of Berkeley, to any place north of State, Court, and Cambridge streets (or return), the fare is ^1 for each passenger, and for two or more passengers 50 cents each. From any place north of Essex and Boylston streets, to any place in Roxbury north of Dudley Street, or Roxbury Street between Eliot Square and Pynchon Street, and east of Tremont Street from the Providence Railroad crossing and the Brookline line, the fare is $2 ; for two passengers, $1 each ; three passengers or more, 75 cents each. From any place south of Essex and Boylston streets and north of Dover and Berkeley streets, to any place in Roxbury (or return) the fare is $1.50 ; two passengers, 87 cents each ; three, 75 cents each ; four 624 cents each. From any place south of Dover and Berkeley streets to any place in Roxbury (or return) the fare is !jl ; for two passengers, 75 cents each ; for three or more, 50 cents each. From any point north of Essex and Boyls- ston streets, to any place in Roxbury south of Dudley Street and Roxbury Street between Eliot Square and Pynchon Street, and west of Tremont Street from the Providence crossing and Brookline line, 62.50 ; two passengers, $1.25 each ; three, .$1 each ; four, 75 cents each. To South or East Boston from the old portion of the city, $1 ; two or more passengers, 75 cents each. From point to point within Dorchester, $1 ; 50 cents for each additional passenger. From the city proper to Dorchester, for one person, $2.50, $3, and $4 according to the distance, the limits being care- fully defined in the regulations ; two persons, $1.50, .$1.75, and $2.25 each ; three, $1, $1.25, and $1.62 each ; and four, 75 cents, $1, and $1.25 each. BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 161 PRINCIPAL TELEGRAPH OFFICES. Western Union, open all night, 109 State Street. Branch offices at the prin- cipal hotels and railroad stations. Mutual Union practically united with the Western Union, open all night, Equitable Building, Milk Street. United Lines, open all night, 177 Devonshire Street. Baltimore and Ohio, Milk corner of Hawley Street. Direct Cable, 109 State Street. American Cable, 30 Equi- table Building, Milk Street. Branch offices of the leading telegraph companies, in the principal hotels, exchanges, and other public places. Boys for messenger service of all kinds, day and night, are furnished by the Mutual District Messenger Company, whose main office is in the basement of the Old State House, State and Washington Streets. There messengers can be called by telephone or by the special electric call-boxes of the company, which are generally to be found in the leading hotels, and other public places, as well as in business offices. The boys are uniformed, and are paid according to a fixed tariff of rates. Public telephone stations are in the principal hotels. INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS. Advertiser Building, 103. American House, 19. Andrew, Statue of Gov., 24. Arlington Street Churcli, 50. Army and Navy Monument, 29. AtlienoBum, Boston, 41. Beacon Street Mall, 31. Boston, from the Harbor, 10. Boston, from tlie South End, 90. Boston and Albany Railroad Station, 119. Boston Liglit, 125. Boston Museum, 85. Boston Society of Natural History, and Institute of Technology, 58. Boston Tlieatre, 88. Brattle Square Church, Old, 21 ; New, 66. Brewer Building, 99. Brewer Fountain, 28. Bug Light, 125. Bimker Hill Monument, 140. Cathedral Building, 97. Cathedral of the Holy Cross, 113. Chauncy Hall Sc-hool, 50. Chester S(|u;ire, View in, 108. Cliestnut Kill, Entrance, 135. Chestnut Hill, G.ate House, 137. Chestnut Hill, Large Reservoir, 130. Chestnut Hill, Small Reservoir, 137. Christ Church, 14. City Hall, 73. City Hospital, 114. Commonwealth .\ venue, 48. Commonwealth Avenue, with Brattle Square Church and Hotel Vendome, CO. Consumptives' Home, Grove Hall, 135. Copp's Hill Buryiiig-Ground, 15. Custom House, 78. Dorchester Heights, 7. Eastern and Fitchburg Railroad Stations, 17. Elm, The Old, 27. Equitable Building, 9S. Everett, Statue of Edward, 34. Faneuil Hall, 13. First Church in Boston, 4. First Church, Berkeley Street, 49. First Church in Roxbury, 132. Forest Hills, Entrance to, 140. Fort Independence, 123. Fort Warren, 124. Fort Winthrop, 123. Franklin Street before the Are, 72. Franklin's Birthplace, 4. Frog Pond, 25. Girls' High and Latin Schools, 111. Globe Theatre, 90. Granary Burying-Ground, 37. Grand Junction Wharves, 131. Great Fire, Scene after, 71. Hancock House, The Old, 42. Harvard Congregational Church, Brookline, 151. Harvard Medical School, 01. Harvard University, Gore Hall, 143. Harvard, Tlie Memorial Hall, 145. Harvard, The Quadrangle, 144. Haymarket Square, 18. Hemmenway BuiUling, 87. Horticultural Hall .and Studio Building, 80. Hotel Boylstou, 92. Hotel Brunswick, 65. Hull, 122. Immaculate Conception, Church of the, 115. Jamaica Pond, North View, 138. Jamaica Pond, Soutli View, 139. Journal Building, 102. Latin and English High Schools, 160. Long Island Liglit, 120. Longfellow, Home of, 149. Lowell Railroad Station, 18. Macullar, Parker & Co.'s Building, 94. Map of Boston and Suburbs, 11. Map of Boston in 1722, 2. Masonic Temple, 93. Massachusetts Charitable Mechanic Association Building, 03. Massachusetts General Hospital, 10. Massachusetts Hospital Life Insurance Build- ing, 75. Meeting-House Hill, 133. Mount Auburn Chapel, 150. Mount Auburn, Entrance to, 149. Museum of Fine Arts, 50. Mutuiil Life Insurance Building, 95. Navy Yard, 141. New England Conservatory of Music, 112. New England Manufacturers' and Mechanics' In- .stitute, 04. New England Mutual Life Insurance Co. s Building, 95. New Old Soutli Churcli, 53. Nix's Mate, 120. 164 INDEX TO TEXT. Odd Fellows' Hall, 116. Old Colony Station, 120. Old Corner Bookstore, 83. Old House in Dock Square, 6. Old South Church, 79. Old State House, 5. Park Street, 38. Park Street Church, 38. Parker House, 83. Perkins Institution for the Blind, 130. Point Shirley, I'-T. Post, Building of the Boston, KU. Post-Office, 70. Providence Railroad Station, -IG. Public Garden, from Arlington Street, 32. Public Uarden, tlie Bridge, 33. Public Garden, the Pond, 33. Public Library, 44. Quincy, Josiah, Statue of, 74. Revere House, 20. Riverside Press, 147. Savin Hill, 134. Somerset Club House, 43. Somerset Street, 43. Stand-Pipe, Cochituate Water-Works, 132. State House, 30 State Street Block, 100. State Street, Head of, 70. Studio Building, 8G. Sumner, Cliarles, Statue of, 36. Transcript Building before the fire, 100. Tremont House, 39. Tremont Street Methodist Church, 117. Trimountaine, 1. Trinity Church, 52. Union Boat-Club, 67. Union Congregational Church, 118. Unitarian Building, 40. Vendome, Hotel, G6. Washington Elm, 148. Washington Statue, 35. Young Men's Christian Association Building, 59. Young Men's Christian Union Building, 91 . INDEX TO TEXT. 'American Academy of Arts and Sciences, 41. American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, 40. Ancient Chroniclers, 3, 26. Archbishop's Mansion, 114. Area of Boston, 10. Arlington, 157. Arlington Heights, 157. Art Museum, 55. Athen:vum, Boston, 41. Atlantic Avenue, 106. Back Bay, 47. Barricado, 78. Battle FUags, 24. Battle of Gettysburg, Cyclorama of, 117. Beacon Hill, 1, 23. Beacon Street, 42. Bedford Street, 09. Beebe-Weld Building, 97. Blackstone, William, 1, 25. Boston College, 115. Boston Conservatory of Music, 93. Boston Liglit, 124. Boston made a City, 8. Boston Massacre, 5. Bo.ston Memorial Association, 34. Boston Pier, 77. Bo-ston Safe Deposit Co., 96. Boston Society of Natural History, 57. Boston University, 42. Boylston Market, 91. Brewer Building, 99. Brewer Fountain, 28. Brighton, 129. British Occupation, 6, 15, 21, 79. BrookUne, 129, 150, 157. Brooks, Phillips, 51. Bug Light, 125. Bunker Hill, 141. Cambridge, 142, 157. Castle Island, 121. Cathedral Building, 96. Cemeteries. Central Burymg-Ground, 28. Copp's Hill Burying-Ground, 15. Forest Hills Cemetery, 139, 154. Granary Burying-Ground, 30. King's Chapel Burying-Ground, 81. Mount Auburn Cemetery, 150. North Burying-Ground, 15. Central District, 09. Clianning, W. E., 50. Charles River Basin, 67. Charle-stovvn, 141. Chauucy Hall School, 59. Chelsea Highlands, 15G. Chestnut Hill Reservoir, 135. Children's Hospital, 04. Church Street District, 47. Churches. Advent, Church of the, 68. Arlington Street Church, 49. Brattle Square Church, 21 , 54. Cathedral of the Holy Cross, 113, Cathedral, Old, 96, 98. Central Cluirch, 50. INDEX TO TEXT. 165 Christ Church, 14. Disciples, Cliurcli of the, 118. Emmanuel Church, 53. Federal Street Church, 99. First Churcli, 4, 49. First Church in Roxbury, 132. First Presbyterian Church, 118. Harvard Church, 150. Hedding Church, 118. HoUis Street Cliurch, 64. Holy Trinity, Church of the, 116. Huguenot Church, 82. Immaculate Conception, Church of the, 115. King's Chapel, 80. Manifesto Church, 21. New Old South Church, 53. Old Churches, 4. Old South Church, 78. Our Lady of Perpetual Help, Church of, 155. Park Street Church, 37. People's Church, 118. St. John the Evangelist, Church of, 68. St. Mary's Church, 22. St. Paul's Church, 75. Second Church, 54. Second Universalist Church, 118. Shawmut Church, 117. South Congregational Church, 117. Spiritual Temple, 04. Tabernacle, 117. Tremont Street Methodist Church, 117. Tremont Temple, 85. Trinity Church, 51. Union Church, 118. 'W^arren Avenue Church, 118. City Hall, 72. City Hospital, 115. City Point, 155. Clubs. Algonquin Club, 68. Boston Art Club, 57. Central Club, 45. Paint and Clay Club, 105. Puritan Club, G8. St. Botolph Club, 47. Somerset Club, 43. Suffolk Club, 40. Tavern Club, 45 Temple Club, 105. Union Boat-Club, 68. Union Club, 39. "Whist Club, 45. Coaches, 160. Columbus Avenue, 118. Commercial Development, 3, 8. Commercial Street, 12. Common, Boundaries of, 26. Common, History of, 25. Commonwealth Avenue, 48, 67. Congregational Headquarters, 40. Consumptives' Home, 134. Copp's Hill, 15. Corey's Hill, 155. Cornliill, 12. Court House, 74. Court Street, 22. Cradle of Liberty, 12. Custom House, 77. Dedham, 116. Dorchester, 129, 133, 153. Dorchester Heights, 7, 155. Doric Hall, 24. East Boston, 130. Egg Rock, 128. Elevator, B. & A. R. R., 131. Eliot's Grave, 112. Elm, The Old, 27 Emancipation Group, 45. Embargo, The, 8. Emerson, Ralph Waldo, 54, Episcopalians, 80. Equitable Building, 97 Ether Monument, 34. Feder.al Street, 49. Fire, The Great, 69, 75. Fir.st Block of Buildings, 98. Foreigners, 105. Fort Hill, 69. Fort Independence, 121. Fort Warren, 123. Fort Winthrop, 122. Fortifications, Old, 112. Franklin, Benjamin, Birthplace of, 4, 101. Franklin Street, 98. Frog Pond, 27. Gannett, Ezra S., 50. George's Island, 122. Governor's Island, 122. Grove Hall, 134, 153. Hack Fares, 160. Halls. Bumstead Hall, 88. Chickering Hall, 93. Faueuil Hall, 12. Horticultural Hall, 86. Huntington HaU, 58. Meionaon Hall, 86. Music Hall, 87. Norcross Hall, 91. Odd Fellows' Hall, 116. Paine Memorial Hall, 116. Parker Memorial Hall, 116. Sleeper Hall, 42. Tremont Temple, 85. Union Hall, 91. Hancock House, Old, 42. Hancock's Tomb, 37 . Handel and Haydn Society, 88. Hanover Street, 12. Harbor of Boston, 121, 139. Harbor Steamers, 159. Harvard College, 4, 142. College Library, 145. Memorial Hall, 145. Memorial Hall, Portraits in, 146. Medical School, 62. Sanders Theatre, 146. Hemmenway Building, 85. Herdics, 160. History op Boston in Early Times, 1. Horse-Car Routes, 153, 159. Hovey, C. F., & Co., 94. Hotel Rates, 158. Hotels, 158. Adams House, 89. American House, 19. Connnonwealth Hotel, 112. Crawford House, 158. Creighton House, 158. Hotel Agassiz, 67. Hotel Berkeley, 67. Hotel Boylston, 92. Hotel Brun.swick, 65. 166 Hotel Cluny, 67. Hotel Huntington, 67. Hotel Kempton, 07. Hotel Kensington, 67. Hotel Oxford, 67. Hotel Pelham, 45. Hotel Tmlor, G7. Hotel Vendome, 05. International Hotel, 158. Korfolk House, 130. Parker House, 83. Quincy House, 20. Revere House, 20. Taft's Hotel, 127. Tremont House, 39. United States Hotel, 120. Young's Hotel, 83. Houghton, Mifflin & Co., 38, 82, 148. Hull, 121. Huntington Avenue, 62. Independent Clironicle, 104. Jamaica Plain, 154. Jamaica Pond, 138, 154, Jesuits, The, 115. Jolmson, Isaac, 1, 81, 82. Jordan, Marsh & Co., 93. King, Thomas Starr, 64. Kissing as a Crime, 3. Ladies' Shopping Quarter, 93. Lee Building, 100. Liberty Tree, 91. Lind, Jemiy, IS. Long Island, 125. Long Path, 32. Longfellow's House, 149. Lowell Scliool of Design, 58. Macullar, Parker & Co., 94. Made Land, 9, 32, 47. Malcolm, Captain, 15. MaUs, 31. Maolis Gardens, 128. Mason & Hamlin, 93. Ma.sonic Temple, 92. Masonic Temple, Old, 74. Massachusetts Charitable Mechanic Association, 20, 62. Massachusetts General Hospital, 16. Massachusetts Historical Society, 82. Massachusetts Hospital Life Insurance Co., 75. Mathers, The Three, 15, 54. Meeting-House Hill, 134, 153. Military Record, 7. Mill, Old Wayside, 156. Milton Hill, 153. Milton Lower Mills, 153. Miuot's Ledge Liglit, 128. Municipal Annexations, 9. Murray, Rev. W. H. H., 38. Museum of Fine Arts, 55. Mutual Life Insurance Building, 95. Nahant, 127. Nantasket Beach, 121. Natural History Museum, 57. Navy Yard, 142. Neck, Tlie, 108, 112. New Boston and the Subotbs, 129. New England Courant, 104. INDEX TO TEXT. New England Historic, Genealogical Society, 41. New England Manufacturers' and Mechanics' In- stitute, 04. New England Mutual Life Insurance Building, 96. New Washington Street, 22. Newspaper Row, 100. Newspapers. Advertiser, Daily, 103. Beacon, 105. Budget, Simday, 105. Commercial Bulletin, 105. Courier, Simday, 105. Gazette, Saturday Evening, 104. Globe, Daily, 104. Herald, Daily, 102. Journal, Daily, 102. Pilot, 105. Post, Morning, 101. Record, Evening, 104. Transcript, Evenuig, 100. Traveller, Evening, 104. Nix's Mate, 120. Noddle's Island, 129. North End, 12. Ocean Street, 153. Old Corner Bookstore, 82. Old House in Dock Square, 6. Old- Time Visitors, 3. Paddock Elms, 37. Paddy, Wm., Epitaph on, 81. Paine, Robert Treat, 99. PaUrey, Jolm G., 21. Parker, Harvey D., 83. Parker HiU, 155. Parkman, Francis, 47. Pearl Street, GO. Perkins Institution for the Blind, 129. Phillips, Wendell, 91. Pierpont, John, 64. Point Shirley, 127. Population, Elements of, 105. Population in 1674, 2. Population in Later Periods, 8, 105. Post Office, 75. Powder Horn Hill, lijO. Practical Notes, 158. Prescott's House, 43. Printing-Press, Tlie First, 148. Protestant Episcopal Theological School, 146. Province House, 79. Public Garden, 32. Public Library, 43. Public Library Branches, 45. Pulhng Point, 125. Quincy, Josiah, 74. Quincy Market, 14. Quincy Road, 154. Railroads. Boston and Albany, 119. Boston and Lowell, 19. Boston and Maine. 19. Boston and Providence, 46. Eastern, 17. Fitchburg, 18. Grand Junction, 130. Old Colony, 120. Union Freight, 106. Restaurants, 158. Revere Beach, 127, 156. INDEX TO TEXT 167 Rink, Boston RoUer-Skating, 57. Riverside Press, 147. Roman Catholics, 113. Roxbury, 129, 132. Savin Hill, 13-1. Schools. Boston Conservatory of Music, 93. Chaiincy Hall School, 59. Girls' High and Latin Schools, 111. Girls' Normal School, 112. Latin and High Schools, New, 109. Latin School, Old, 82. Lowell Scliool of Design, 58. New England Conservatory of Music, 112. Normal Art School, 114. Prince School, GO. Security Safe Deposit Co., 97. Sewerage System, New, 107. Shawmut Avenue, 116. Sheafe, Jacob, 82. Sliirley, Gov., 99. Siege of Boston, 7. Soldiers' Moiuiment, 28. Soldiers' Monument, Cambridge, 146. Somerville, 15G. South Boston, 129, 153, 155. South End, 108. Spectacle Island, 121. Squares and Parks. Adams Square, 22. Blackstone Square, 109. Chester Square, 109. Conunon, The, 25. Copley Square, 55. Dock Square, 12. Eliot Square, 132. Fort Hill Square, 69. Haymarket Square, 19. Pembertou Square, 23. Post-Office Square, 76. Public Garden, 32. ScoUay Square, 22. Union Park, 109, 117. "Winthrop Square, 96, 99. Worcester Square, 109. Stand-Pipe, 132. State House, 23. State House, Old, 5. State Street. 09. State Street Block, 105. Statues. Apollo, 87. Samuel Adams, 22. Gov. Andrew, 24. Beethoven, 87. Emancipation Group, 45. Edward Everett, 24, 34. Benjamin Franklin, 74. Wm. Lloyd Garrison, 48. Gen. Glover, 48. Alexander Hamilton, 48. John Harvard, 140. Horace Mann, 24. William Prescott, 141. Josiah Quincy, 74. Washington (Chantrey's), 24. Washington (Equestrian), 35. Daniel Webster, 24. Gov. Winthrop, 22, 80. Stuart, Gilbert, 91. Studio Building, 87. Sub-Treasury, 75. Suburban Rides, A Group of, 153. Suburbs, 142. Symphony Orchestra, 88. Taft's Coffee House, 84. Tea Party, 6. Technology, Institute of, 58. Telegraph Offices, 161. Theatres, 159. Bijou Theatre, 89. Boston Museum, 84. Boston Theatre, 88. Globe Theatre, 90. HoUis Street Theatre, 116. Howard Athenaeum, 42. Park Tlieatre, 89. Windsor Theatre, 120. Thompson's Island, 121. Ticknor Mansion, 38. Time Ball, 98. Tontine Crescent, 98. Town Cove, 78. Tremont Street, 108, 116. Trimountaine, 1, 23. Tufts College, 157. Unitarian Headquarters, 40. U. S. Court House, 74. U. S. Marine Hospital, 142. U. S. Signal Service Station, 98. University Press, 148. Valuation of Boston, 8. Warren Mansion, 132. Warren Tomb, 140. Warren, William, 42, 85. Washington Elm, 148. Washington Street, 22, 112. Water, Coclutuate, Introduction of, 27. Water- Works, 27, 135. Wendell Phillips, 91. West Chester Park, 118. West End, 23. West Roxbury, 129. Wharves. Central Wharf, 106. India Wharf, 106. Long Wharf, 77. T Wharf, 106. Wliite, R. H., & Co., 94. Winter HiU, 156. Winthrop, Gov., 85. "World's Museum, 88. Young Men's Christian Association, 58. Young Men's Christian Union, 91. 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