D 909 .M6 Copy 1 the economical European Guide BY CARL WILSON \\ HOW TO SEE ALL EUROPE IN 50 days for $100 100 days for 170 ETC. ETC. Gives all Cities, Routes, Hotels and Terms Tells What to Say in All Languages Saves Money, Time and Trouble Everywhere HOW TO TRAVEL ALL OVER BELGIUM for $2.27 SV/ITZERLAND for 8.68 ITALY for 12.28 PHILADELPHIA DAVID McKAY. PUBLISHER 604-8 South Washington Square ^t^ Copyrig:ht, 1913, by David McKay, Publisher Entered at Stationers' Hall, London, England All rights reserved ©CU332997 CONTENTS PAGE Table of Tours, with Time and Cost/ 6 Daily Travel Phrases 7 Abonnejients and Circular Voyage Tickets 7 Money, Foreign Coins and Values, Books, Ships, Luggage, Clothing, Routes, Railway Travel, Tipping, etc. ... S Europe's Beauty Spots i3 Washington, Niao.aRA Falls, Philadelphia, New York and Boston ig Ireland (Queenstown, Killarney, Dublin) 2o England, Southern (Southampton, Isle of Wight, etc) 21 London 23, 30 Scotland (Glasgow, Lake District, Edinburgh) 27 England, Eastern (Durham, York, Cambridge, etc.) 29 Useful Travel Words 31 Routes to the Continent 32 FranceI (Dieppe, Havre, Rouen) s:^ Paris 34 Amiens, Arras, Lille, etc 38 Belgium (Ostend, Bruges, Ghent) 39 Brussels 43 Antwerp 44 Holland (Dordrecht, Rotterdam, Delft) 45 The Hague 46 Amsterdam 47 Lists of Christian Hospice and Temperance Hotels 4Q Germany (Rhine Valley, Cologne, Frankfort, etc.) 56 Switzerland (Basle, Zurich and the Engadine) 64 Lucerne, Geneva, Berne, Interlaken, etc 68 Italy (Routes into Italy and the Lake District) 71, 73 Milan, Verona, Padua 74 Venice, Bologna, Ravenna 78 Florence, Assisi, Orvieto 80 Rome, Naples and Sicily 82 Pisa, Lucca, Spezia, Genoa, Turin, etc 84 3 4 CONTENTS PAGE Austrian Tyrol (Trent, Bozen-Gries, Innsbruck) 85 Germany, Bavaria (Munich, Ratisbon, Nuremberg, etc.) 86 Austria (Salzburg and the Salzkammergut) 91 Down the Danube to Vienna; Budapest, Prague g4 Germany, Eastern and Central (Dresden, Leipzig) gS Berhn gg Weimar, Jena, Cassel. Hamburg, Bremen, etc 102 England, Western (Oxford, Chester, Liverpool, etc.) 105 Public Signs and Words (Vocabulary) 108 Index 113 THE ECONOMICAL EUROPEAN GUIDE * One star prefixed means Important. ** Two stars prefixed means Absolutely Necessary or Very Important. If you ever have the time and a small amount of money by all means take an European tour. If you sec America first, the cost is great, the distances vast; the result hardly commensurate with the time and money spent. Great natu- ral beauty is common to both continents; Europe is alone in its architecture, its fine arts, its varied races and customs and its relics of antiquity. Before touring abroad read this book through the very first thing. Incur no expense for anything before doing so. It protects, directs and saves you money everywhere. It tells you how to procure free guides, maps and information, also very low railway fares, and good, low-priced, safe hotels and restaurants. It is a practical aid for those who wish to enjoy an artistic trip embracing ALL that is best on the continent, yet who desire to avoid unnecessary trouble and expense by using common- sense methods. *It3 sole purpose is to benefit you. It gives the actual amounts spent on such a trip by a married couple who were experienced travelers. It is as short and valuable as possible, yet gives all necessary information. It tells how to get much for little and a great deal for nothing. On a recent trip covering practically all Europe, i8o days' land travel cost $630.00 for two; $1.75 per day each; this amount including every expense. Neither person spoke any foreign language; the few words and phrases given in this book were acquired abroad. With this guide the following tours can be made by any one, the average cost of living being $1.00 per day: EUROPEAN GUIDE I 50 Day 1 100 Day 125 Day ] 175 Day !$ioo Tour $170 Tour $220 Tour $290 Tour iDys. Rly. England Scotland j France [ 5 Belgium I 5 Holland i 2 German}' 10 Austria Switzerland Italy Sicily Southern France. Total 6 $8 7 2io IS ^13 Dys. Rly. Dys. Rly. Dys. Rly 50 $50 8 $10 10 4 7 ^3 4 3 27 I 27 14 2io 30 ^13 100 $70 16I $20 "\ 19 10 5 45} 25 $25 6 5 30 3i7[ 5o|^''27 125 $95ii75 i^iiS I Belgian abonnement, 5 days, $2.27. - Swiss abonnement, 15 days, $8.68. 3 Italian abonnement, 45 days, $12.28. ■" Belgian abonnement, 15 days, $4.54. 5 Swiss abonnement, 30 days, $13.51. 5 Sicilian abonnement, 15 days, $11.00. If your means are limited and you wish to go far for little you can see all Europe in 50 days' very fast travel for Sioo.oo, or in 100 days' fast travel for Si 70.00. You can see all Europe thoroughly in 6 months' slow travel for $300.00. Add to thi^- your cabin passages there and back, the two for from $S-.co to Sioo.oo, and you have the total for the entire tour. These comprehensive trips may only be achieved by getting full value for every dollar spent. Travel econom- ically; eat plain, wholesome food; avoid gorgeous, tip- taking hotels. Ask how much everything is always in advance (experienced travelers invariably do this), and insist on a low price. Be sharp, adapt yourself to the sen- sible customs and live like the natives of the countries you visit. There is absolutely no hardship and nothing but pleasure and enjoyment on such a trip. In America the rich only travel extensively and railways and hotels cater especially to them. In Europe rich, rnoder- ately well-to-do and poor are always journeying, railways having rates for each class and hotels accommodating them at all prices; plainness and cleanliness only being required EUROPEAN GUIDE 7 by the vast majority. Small hotels are quiet, clean, homelike and have only one or two servants who look to you for remuneration. *The larger the hotel the less homelike and the more you are expected to give in gratuities. A stay at an expensive house is often the cause of much discomfort. If you patronize the list of "Christian Hospice" given in this book you will enjoy the best of friendly, moderate-priced hotels. You can learn all the language you need in any country in a few minutes. One phrase procures you lodging in any house or hotel (words in parenthesis really unnecessary): (Have you) a room for two, sir? How much? Show me. German: (Haben sie) ein zimmer mit zwei betten, meinheer? Was ist costa? Zeigen sie mir. French : (Auriez vous) une chambre pour deux, monsieur? Combien? Mortrez moi. Italian: (Avrebbe) una stanza ammobligata per due, signor? Quanto? Mostretemi. One phrase procures you tickets at any railway station: Two tickets, third class, to Paris. No change (of cars)? Return. German: Zwei biliete dritte klass nach Paris. Nicht umsteigen? Zuruck._ French: Deux billet troiseme class pour Paris. Non changeur? Retour. Italian: Due bighetti terza classe per Paris. Non combiamento? Ritorno. In Belgium, Switzerland, Wurtemberg (in Ger- many), and many parts of Austria and France you may use a general abonnement (practically a railway pass good for a certain number of days' unlimited travel). Show one of these tickets without speaking, and you can go anywhere, any time,, within each territory's limits. In Italy use Circular Voyage Ticket. By having next station at which you wish to stop stamped on ticket by station agent before taking train you may cover practi- cally all cities without talking or trouble. a" few words will procure you food and drink anywhere. Do exactly as this book tells you; it took time and trouble to find out the very best way, now set down here. Hold tight to your money. Always travel independently. **Always be absolutely your own master. Buy no foolish tours, hotel coupons or Rundreise tickets. Illness or acci- dent may cause you much loss if you purchase these. You 8 EUROPEAN GUIDE can save one-half on such investments, and common sense tells you you need your own time and your own inclinations to stop, see and enjoy the countries you visit. You may as well not tour the continent at all as to be one of a flock raced through by a guide. *Liberty and independence should be valued at home and abroad. Five prehminaries must be considered: Money; books; ship; baggage; route, and traveUng. The great necessity in foreign travel is to get money quickly, at any time and place and in small amounts. **American Express Go's. Traveler's Checks have gooo correspondents, are absolutely safe and can be cashed in one minute, without inquiry or trouble, anywhere in Eu- rope. **The oldest and most experienced travelers use these checks. You need no printed Hst, everyone is anx- ious to cash them for you as they make a few pennies by doing so. They cost J^% and are issued for $100.00 or over. **Use Sio.oo checks only; never any higher. When near the borders of a country it is enough to draw, as you must avoid costly money changing when possible. This company also cables money at same rate, >^%; waive identification. They have many waiting rooms and handle and forward mail everywhere. $10.00 Traveler's Ghecks (which are the best) and £. Sh. D. Traveler's Ghecks are issued for $100.00 or more by Thos. Gook's Sons. They consist of numbered checks in one book and a letter of Identification in another book. If you lose the checks, they cannot be drawn without the corresponding Identification book and exact signature. This IS a safe system. This company handles and forwards mail everywhere, has waiting-rooms at many places, and has much free literature. (The author uses many American Express Co.'s $10.00 Traveler Ghecks and some of Gook's $10.00 checks.) Ghecks of the North German Llovd, the Gunard Gompany, the International INIercantile Marine, etc., are all good. Letters of Gredit are only for rich, slow travelers. **In all money matters deal only with travel companies (Ameri- can^ Express Go. or Gook's are good). They transact your business inteUigently, safely, quickly and economically. **Do not deal with banks in any way in any travel affairs, their methods are slow, *blundering, *costly, and disap- pointing. *Try to take enough checks with you to' cover your entire trip. If additional funds are sent you, *a registered letter is EUROPEAN GUIDE 9 safe and quick. Each foreign letter is guaranteed against loss by the Government up to $50.00. Two letters costing 20 cents would give you $100.00 at once. Self-addressed envelopes or traveler's checks would identify you. They may be sent to The Borland Press Agency, 3 Regent St., S. W. London, or to any Cook's or Americaii Express Co.'s ofl&ce. A foreign money order to same address would be safe and sure, but the cost is $1.00 for $100.00. American Express Co. and Cook's also send blank traveler's checks abroad (if paid for in America), to any foreign office where you can sign them. *You need no passport in Europe (except in Turkey and Russia), as traveler's checks issued in your own country and signed by you are self-identifying. In Great Britain 24.3 cents equals 12 pennies or i shil- Hng; $4.86 is one pound or sovereign ($5.11 or one guinea is used only as a trade term, no such coin exists). In the fol- lowing countries the standard coins (here given) are divided into 100 parts by smaller coins: 19.3 cents one franc (France, Belgium, Switzerland); ig.3 cents one lire (Italy); 20.3 cents one krone (two krones make one florin, Austria); 23.8 cents one mark (Germany); 40.2 cents one florin or gulden (Holland). An easy thing to remember is that $3.89 equals 16 shillings; 16^ marks and 20 francs or liras. A mark is almost exactly 2 % less than a shilling. Add greatly to your *knowledge and enjoyment by read- ing the following books (at nearly all public libraries): **"The European Tour," by Grant Allen (the best in artistic travel, and an exceedingly valuable book). *Lubke's "History of Art" (a magnificent work in two volumes, beauti- fully illustrated) and *Goodyear's "History of Art" (a smaller but complete work). *"The World's Painters" by D. L. Hoyt (compact and exceedingly valuable). "Famous Sculpture," by Esther Singleton; and a short book with many beautiful pictures, *"Great Buildings and How to Enjoy Them: Gothic Architecture," by E. A. Browne, will all amply repay perusal. *Rolfe's Satchel Guide to Europe costs $1.50 and is up-to- date (maps, fest days, special events, etc.). It is written in a very direct, brief style, look it over. *"The Complete Pocket Guide to Europe," by E. C. and T. L. Stedman, costs $1.25. Small, compact, interesting, and complete; maps, fares, etc. All foreign phrases at end of book. Be sure to get **"The Dover-Ostend European Guide" (500 pages), a guide to nearly all the continent. It lists lo EUROPEAN GUIDE all hotels with terms, routes, etc., and is a sort of European Baedeker. It is given away in London (see under London). Many department stores and bookstores sell **Hiirs \'est Pocket Dictionaries, English-German, German-English (both in one book), i8 cents; postage costs 2 cents extra. (German is the most widely spread and economical language of Europe. The knowledge of only a few words gives you low-priced, clean, comfortable hotels everywhere on the continent. Many German hotels in Italy.) Hill's **French and **Italian Dictionaries are the same price. By all means buy these three books. Buy *"Tourists' Guide to the Conti- nent," by Percy Lindley, for 15 cents, from H. J. Ketcham, 362 Broadway, New York. Fine for Belgium, Holland, Germany, Switzerland, etc.; maps. *Send 15 cents to Brooklyn Daily Eagle for their good "Guide to Paris and All Principal Cities and Countries of Europe." All attractions, hours, prices, etc. It is concise and valuable. "Europe Viewed Through American Spectacles," C. C. Fulton; "Over the Ocean" and "Abroad Again," by Curtis Guild, and "How to Prepare for Europe," by H. A. Guerber. are the best of the longer descriptive books. John L. Stoddart's and Burton Holmes' Travel Lectures (at all libraries) are the best of all illustrated works. Ward, Lock & Co.'s ShiUing Guides (England), 400 pp., are fine for *London, and*Paris; also their half-crown (2}4 Sh.) *Switzerland; Holland; and Belgium. **The Borough Guides (2 D. each, 60 pp., map), at all railway stations, are very good for each Enghsh city. Mail home. New Baedeker's Guides for an ordinary European tour cost S34.65. Unapproached as guides, they are complex and costly for quick travelers; also troublesome to dis- pose of when used. Old or second-hand copies may be bought cheap at many booksellers here and abroad. Baede- ker's **"Northern Italy" is especially valuable owing to the great beauty and artistic richness of that territorj\ "Italy" (all in one volume) is not so good. Local guide books are nuisances after being used. Throw them away or mail home, as every pound counts in touring. Old travelers tear large guide books apart and carry small sections only for daily use. The Hamburg-x^merican Line publishes a *90o page "Guide through Europe." It is not sold, but is presented to patrons of their line only, and is very complete and valuable. Second-hand dealers occasion- ally have them. All lines of ships give Winter (low) prices from about EUROPEAN GUIDE ii October 15 to May i; the rest of the year Summer (io7o higher) prices prevail. *If you include beautiful Scotland (which will cost you a Uttle more, but which you will never regret), by all means land at * Glasgow. If you mclude Winchester, SaUsbury and the Isle of Wight, land at South- ampton If you wish a short interesting tour, land at Liver- pool Engage passage at least one month in advance and secure outside berth, sunny side, central. If not smted, the head steward will give you the best for a small additional sum. Go early to steward and engage a seat near the door at table If you secure a room on the right side of the boat going to Europe and the left side coming home you will get the most fresh air, thus preventing ilhiess *Eat and drink little the first dav or two. Ginger-ale with lemon-juice in it is the best remedy if seasick. Constantly walk the deck, it hardens you and keeps you well. Avoid steamer chairs, they induce sickness and are enervating. Few old travelers use them; they find many resting places about the deck. Try to land strong and vigorous and by all means *land in an English-speaking country. It gives you confidence and is a necessary beginning for an enjoyable, independent tour. Last meal before landing give your table waiter a moderate tip. Also any other person who has given you special atten- tion. Do not buy return ticket ; illness or accident may totally change your plans. April is the best month to sail — low rates, good weather; October and early November same conditions for return. ISIany lines allow free car ride to point of departure if within 200 miles or so (Philadelphia or New York to Boston, etc.). Ask for it and get it. Many steamship companies operate only one class ships. You have the entire freedom of the vessel ; very desirable and congenial if you can spare the time. The price of passage is low, the food furnished both liberal and of good quality, as *the captain and head officers eat at your table. One class sKips are clean, well appointed, the officers friendly, and there is no formality or unnecessary attention given to dress. **It is really first class traveling for a second class price and is infinitely to be preferred by persons of moderate means. The author's experience in traveling second class on many two class ships has been *second class food, *poorly cooked. No officer or very minor ones eat at these tables; this tells the tale. Among the very best of one class ships is the *Allan Line. Boston-Glasgow (by far the best entry port), about 10 days. Numidian and Parisian, each 5000 tons, $45 -oo. 12 EUROPEAN GUIDE *This line is specially commended for its good food, cleanliness and low prices. Free transportation allowed from Philadelphia or New York to Boston (or vice versa), with stop-offs if demanded. From New York to Boston by Fall River Line (magnificent boats, on which secure $i.oo stateroom for two by applying early in day at Fall River Line office). They also sell ten-day 25 Sh. Tourist tickets by *Great Northern railway to London (this is a good Eastern route), stop-offs at Edinburgh, Melrose, Hexham, Newcastle, Durham, York, Grantham (for Lincoln), Peterborough (Cambridge is a little off the line but well worth seeing), London. The best ticket, however, is a Joint Line Ticket (Great Northern and Great Eastern); it covers all these cities without any extra payment. A, Great Northern and Great Eastern Joint Line ten-day 25 Sh. Tourist Ticket is good for any station on the line of route, Glasgow, *Edinburgh, Melrose, Hexham, Newcastle, *Durham, *York, *Lincoln, *Peterborough, *Ely, *Cam- bridge, London. These tickets may be bought in Glasgow or in London. The Great Eastern Railway issues ten-day Tourist Tickets 9,t low rates at Liverpool for London with stop-offs at Man- chester, *Lincoln, *Ely (Peterborough is very near), and *Cambridge. Tourist ticket Glasgow to Liverpool, with stop-offs, 15 Sh. In *Chester (a few miles from Liverpool) a *Great Western railway ten-day Tourist ticket to London may be bought for T6^ Sh. Stop-offs at Shrewsbury, Birmingham (pay small fare to *Lichfield with its fine cathedral, rich without, exquisite within), *Warwick, Leamington (pay small fare to Stratford-on-Avon), **Oxford (be sure to see this city), Reading (beautiful Salisbury and Winchester are quite near), ♦Windsor to London. Thus the most attractive of all trips, including lovely Scotland, on one of the best steamship lines will only cost about $50.00. **You will find friendliness, safety, one-class only, good food, the best location, and no formality, far preferable to speed and size with many limi- tations in every other respect. If round-trip ticket is bought, 5% discount is allowed on return portion. Boston office of Allan Line, no State Street. American Line (*Philadelphia service only), Philadelphia-Queenstown-Liverpool. Haver- ford, Merion, Dominion, 11,600 tons, about 11 days. All one class; $47.50 up. Well liked and patronized; passage must be engaged early. Compagnie General Transatlantic. New York-Havre. *Rochambeau, *Chicago, Niagara, all EUROPEAN GUIDE 13 fine, fast, about 10,000 tons, $55.00 up. The Floride and Caroline, 7500 tons, S47-5o; Virginie, 5500 tons, $45.00; All of these one class. Leyland Line, Boston-Liverpool, one class only, $50.00. The White Star "Cymric," "Boston- Liverpool, one class only, $50.00. *\\'ilson Line, Hull to Boston and New York, one class only, £10; good. North German Lloyd, Baltimore-Bremen, one class, $57.50; North German Lloyd, Galveston-Bremen, one class, $67.50. Hamburg- American Line, Philadelphia-Hamburg, one class, $57.50. The Anchor Line, New York to Glasgow, has the following two-class, 10,000 ton, eight-day ships: Caledonia, Cahforma, Columbia, and Cameronia; second cabin, $50.00 up. Free transportation Philadelphia or Boston to New York c>r vice versa; low rates to London. INIany fine, low-priced, one class only, steamship lines run from Montreal, Canada to *Glasgow, Liverpool, South- ampton and London. The sea passage is short, only four or five days, and the trip to Buffalo, Niagara, Toronto, the Thousand _ Islands, and Montreal is very attractive. All the following are good, one-class ships. *Allan Line to Glasgow: Pretorian and Scandinavian, S47.50. Allan Line to Havre and London: Ionian, *Lake Erie, Corinthian and Sicilian, $45.00 and $47.50; all good. Canadian-Pacific Line to Liverpool, $50.00. Cunard Line to London, $45.00 (returns from South- ampton). Donaldson Line to Glasgow, S47.50. WTiite Star Line to Liverpool, "The Canada," $50.00. Any person voyaging on ships lower tjaan second cabin takes very great chances of disease, etc. Raymond & Whitcomb Company, 225 Fifth Avenue, New York, _ will send you for a 2-cent stamp a "Traveler's Condensed Guide," giving j'ou all lines of ships and dates of sailing. **Do not take a tnmk with you. It will spoil your entire trip. It will be an endless nuisance. It will directly and indirectly cost you hundreds of dollars. Ever>^ one will bleed you; and it must be constantly handled, checked, car- ried, and coddled by railway porters, cabmen, hotel porters, both to and from hotels (you must tip all) ; and it will prob- ably be either lost, broken or robbed. It puts you in the avaricious hands of all hotel proprietors. In nearly every European country you pay for every mile a trunk is carried, besides paying your fare. It is also very troublesome at every station (each city having different rules), and at all frontiers. As it is totally unnecessary, do not take a trunk. 14 EUROPEAN GUIDE (If it must accompany you, store it soon after landing and return for it; or you may buy a cabin trunk in London on your return trip and fill it there.) **Instead of a trunk take one or two dress suit cases, moderate sized (not over 14 inches high), fairly strong, not too new. Old bags are best, as custom of35cers rarely examine them. (Throw them wide open on the counter at all frontier stations; the officer lifts one edge of the contents and chalks them through. Do not rub the chalk marks.) Also take a black-cloth hand-bag, about 12 inches square. Carry toilet articles, night clothes, etc., in this. **The instant you arrive at a railway station, any- where in Europe, always check your dress suit case at the cloakroom (English name for parcel-room) for i or 2 cents a day. In France check at "Bureau de Bagages" (package- room). In Belgium, Holland, Germany, Switzerland, check at "Handgepack." In Austria at "Handgepack" or "Gar- derobe." In Italy at "Deposito." You are thus instantly rid of your luggage, and it is where it is needed for your future journey. It is perfectly safe in any railway's care. Have your name only, without address (or it may be for- warded somewhere), written by yourself, on dress suit case tag, so you can identify it at any time. By giving the parcel man a penny you may have access to contents at any time without rechecking. Carry your small hand-bag. You are now free to leave the station and go anywhere quickly with- out expense or importunity by carriage and hotel men. **Hand baggage only is allowed on all cheap week-end, special, Sunday and holiday trips. With a trunk you can receive no benefit from any of these. They often take you just where you wiSh to go and at a very great saving. **A strong German leather hand-bag called a "markt- tasche" may be bought for one mark in any German city. **Carry one by all means; it stamps you as a German. You then secure what all Germans insist on — low rates, good fare, cleanliness and careful attention. Try it. The Germans are recognized by all as the most business-like tourists. A few words regarding clothes. For men: serge or light- weight suit; light overcoat; double-soled, vici kid shoes, with polishing outfit (quickly shine your own shoes and avoid tips, talk, time, and trouble). Hotel keepers always look at your feet when you ask their terms. If you wear shoes bought in Germany^ you will get the best accommodations for the lowest price. Their footwear is durable and very moderate and a pair of shoes will quickly pay for themselves. For EUROPEAN GUIDE 15 women: serge, long coat suit; easy thick-soled vici kid shoes. *Dark shirtwaists are far preferable. Plain, durable clothing shows the experienced traveler; fancy, light, delicate apparel indicates inexperience and prices are raised accord- ingly. In traveling be sure to see the great capitals; they are the centre of each country's life. Germany, being recently con- federated, has Berlin and also many smaller capitals. The only proper, artistic, common-sense, and economical ways to see Europe follow. ^^Detailed journeys are given under each separate country.) Do not alter these quick, direct routes, or you will lose time, money, interest, and pleasure. England (Scotland, if possible), France, Belgium (by Government abonnement, if you wish), Holland, Germany by rail to Dusseldorf, Cologne, Bonn, then a beautiful, low- priced boat trip up the Rhine from city to city (stopping at pleasure), as far as ]\Iannheim, then rail to Strassburg and Freiburg, and by rail to Stuttgart, Heidelberg, Darmstadt, Frankfort, Homburg by Giessen (see Wetzlar, close by), and Marburg to Cassel (third art centre of Germany; rich in Rembrandts and Van Dycks, and grand Wilhamshohe castle and park). Thence to Gottingen (and by direct ser- vice to avoid changing cars), Hanover, Brunswick, to antique Hildesheim, Goslar for the Harz ]Mountains, Hal- berstadt (medieval), ]Madgeburg, Potsdam, Berlin (Charlot- tenburg), Halle, Leipzig (Meissen?), Dresden (Teplitz?), Prague (by Tabor and Gmund) to Vienna, Buda-Pesth, Vienna, Linz, Passau (from here a fine tour embracing the best of beautiful Bavaria may be made), Regensburg, In- golstadt, Nuremberg, Bamberg, Wurzburg, Rothenburg on Tauber (wonderful medieval city), Ulm, Augsburg, Munich, from whence excursions to Innsbruck and Salzburg. From Munich to Lindau and to nearest Swiss city, Romanshorn or RorsHach. If you do not wish a large tour and desire to limit yourself to a few Bavarian cities, go from Linz to Salzburg (stopping en route at beautiful Gmunden and Ischl), thence to Munich, Regensburg, Nuremberg, Augsburg, Munich. From here to Innsbruck, then by Landeck (fine mountain'centre) and Feldkirch to nearest Swiss city, Buchs. At your first Swiss city buy **Swiss Generalabonnement, third class, 45 Fr. for 15 days' unlimited travel all over Swiss railways and lakes or 70 Fr. for 30 days. A deposit of 5 Fr. is charged when ticket is bought. On last day return ticket at Chiasso (near INIilan) and receive 5 Fr. Tour the Italian i6 EUROPEAN GUIDE lakes from *Locarno, *Lugano, and **Como. The day you leave Milan buy an **Italian Government Circular Voyage Ticket taking you all over Italy. By ending your trip at Genoa you may use the White Star, Cunard, North German Lloyd, or Hamburg-American Line — fast boats; good food; or the Royal Italian Mail Lines, moderate rates for second class. A majority of all travelers prefer a trip commencing and ending in the North in order to make purchases before re- turning. The best of all circular tours follows: England (Scotland, if possible), France, Belgium (by Government abonnement if you wish), Holland, Germany by rail to Dusseldorf (Elberfeld, Barmen), Cologne, Bonn, then a beau- tiful, low-priced boat trip up the Rhine from citj' to city (stopping at pleasure) as far as Mannheim, then rail to *Heidelberg, Speyer, Karlsruhe, to lovely *Baden-Baden, Strassburg, Freiburg (most beautiful), to Basle, then Swiss tour by **Government abonnement over all Switzerland, entering Italy by Bellinzona and Locarno (where abonne- ment may be returned), for a tour of *Lago Maggiore or by Bellinzona, *Lugano (this lake is exquisite), and Chiasso (where abonnement may be returned), to Como **(tour lake to Lecco), then to INIonza and Milan. On leaving Milan buy an **Italian Government Circular Voyage ticket for railway travel covering nearly all Italy. Finish this Circular Voyage at INIilan. Thence to Brescia (lovely *Lago d'Iseo is very near), then to Descenzano and by **Lago di Garda (one of the grandest trips in Europe) to Riva. By Mori to Trent, *Bozen-Gries, *Innsbruck (just above Jenbach is the *Achensec), to Rosenheim, *Munich, Augsburg (Rothen- burg-on-Tauber if you wish), old Nuremberg, still more an- cient *Regensburg (Ratisbon), Munich, Rosenheim (at Prien is the Chiemsee, a romantic lake, where one of King Ludwig's castles with a marvellously rich interior may be viewed), then to *Salzburg (wonderfully picturesque), from here lovely *Berchtesgaden and the salt mines and the majestic *K6nigsee may be visited. Salzburg lies at the entrance of one of the most delightful and most easily com- passed regions on earth; the beautiful **Salzkammergut. Devote a few days to this enchanting journey, starting at Mondsee and extending to Aussee surrounded with its lakes. Many pretty towns between here and fair Gmunden, whence rail to Lambach and Linz. From here take the Danube boat to ** Vienna (do not miss this imperially grand capital). Budapest may be visited and return made to Vienna. Then, EUROPEAN GUIDE 17 by Gmund and Tabor to Prague, *Dresden (Meissen), Leipzig, *Berlin, Potsdam, Magdeburg, Halberstadt (strange old wood architecture), Brunswick, Hannover, Hildesheim (Goslar and the Harz mountains are very near), Gottingen, *Cassel (a sylvan city with wonderful Williamshohe castle and park and a bewildering art gallery), Barmen, Elberfeld, Dusseldorf, Cologne, Aix-le-Chapelle (Aachen), (Spa) Liege, ]Brussels (the most moderate-priced purchasing city), Ghent, Jiruges, Ostend, London. A digression from Magdeburg to Halle, Jena, *\Veimar Erfuth, Gotha, Eisenach, **Cassel, Gottingen, Goslar, Hildesheim, Brunswick, Hannover thence •■[0 Dusseldorf, etc., is somewhat longer, but much more beautiful. Take with you a half-dozen, unmounted, half-length photographs of yourself. They must be attached to railway abonnements and save you much money. Size, 23.^ by 1% iuches; face should be fairly large. Third-class railway travel is good enough for any one. The large centre-corridor cars are being generally adopted. The passengers are orderly, decent and clean. Short jour- aeys may be made to try each class in all countries. All cities mentioned are perfectly safe. European travel is very easy, cheap and comfortable if you do not cover a great distance in one journey. Again, buy no tours, hotel coupons, or Rundreise tickets. It is best to engage room or room and breakfast only. It is often inconvenient and costly to room and take all meals at one house. Bathrooms are scarce. A large pitcher of hot water may be had free anywhere. It is easy to locate in small towns; much harder in large cities. Pensions (boarding-houses) generally wish travelers to stay for some little time; some, however, arrange for transient trade. Lodgings are good in England. When France is reached, and in subsequent touring, hotels are just as reason- able in pfice and much better in every way for quick travelers. Always favor hotels where terms for room and meals are given in advertisements; you can then ask for room at their ad- vertised price. Keep your foreign bill of fare (menu) when you dine and study it. **Be sure to get a dated receipt for all moneys paid on printed card of hotel wherever 3^ou stop. (Receipts are generally given for all payments, even street car fares.) You thus have a complete and valuable record of your entire trip. *Give very few tips, and only a few pennies then. Two or three pennies, twenty or thirt^^ centimes or twenty or thirty pfennigs are sufficient for a meal for two (this is about i8 EUROPEAN GUIDE what the natives give). When leaving your hotel give your room attendant a similar daily amount in one sum. (For a week's stay for two a franc.) In an ordinary European tour you will find the cities, the houses and the rooms scrupulously clean. Conveniences for travelers abound everywhere; in some of these a verj- small charge is made. In some parts of Europe three or more ad- jacent houses have the same number; look for name of hotel as well as number. Alcohol is sold everywhere for about 6 cents per pint, so nearly all old travelers carry and use a small alcohol stove; it ingeniously folds up and occupies little space. It heats water quickly (thus preventing calling, troubling, and tipping servant), makes a hot drink and can furnish a meal. Cooked food is sold at many shops and is of fine quahty, and a meal may be eaten at home without wait- int in restaurants. Always ask direction of street given in this book, never name hotel or you will have a guide to pay. Five-sixths of all sights in cities and countries may be easily seen and at Kttle expense, the remaining one-sixth is costly, troublesome and is often not worth the time wasted on it. Try to exercise a wise discretion. If a show or exhibi- tion is held in a large city, see it. If it is in a remote little town avoid it or you will pay dearly. In Europe (especially *Germany) before seating yourself to dine, politely bow or acknowledge your table companions. *In many cases (not always) a room for two (on the con- tinent with two beds) is in less proportion than for one. Thus Hotel du Port, 21 Quai Van Dyck (on river front, near cathedral), Antwerp, quotes room with one bed, 2Y1 Fr.; with two beds, 3 to 5 Fr. Grand Hotel des Boulevards, 9 Place de la Communes (near station), Antwerp, quotes room with one bed, 2^-2 Fr.; with two, 3 Fr. *Two persons traveling together secure most favorable terms. *Be quick in getting on and off trains; it secures you seats, the best side of the car, and you can check your baggage instantly. Nature's beauty spots in Europe are in many lands, and an effort is here made to mention them so they may be visited on the ordinary tour. Best known are the lake regions of Ireland (near Killarney) ; of England (near Windermere) ; of **Scotland (near Glasgow) ; of **Switzerland (near Lucerne, Geneva, Zurich, Constance, Interlaken, etc.) ; of **Northern Italy (near Lugano, Como, Iseo, Locarno, Orta, and Riva); of the Austrian **Salz- kammergut (near Gmunden, Mondsee, Aussee, St. Wolfgang, Ischl and Salzburg); and the *French Riviera (the Mediter- EUROPEAN GUIDE 19 ranean coast, the most enchanting spot being Monte Carlo) ; and the **ItaHan Riviera from San Remo to Pisa. ♦Edinburgh, *Salzburg, Innsbruck, Orvieto, Perugia (and other old hill towns of Italy), *Naples (with its lovely coast and surrounding islands *Ischia, Procida, and *"Capri); *Taormina and ^Palermo, Sicily are all superbly located. The most easily reached and striking places on and near your tour are *Mont St. Michel (called the most picturesque spot in Europe), on the Northern French coast near *St. Malo, Bayeux, Caen, strange Vitre, and lovely Jersey, Guernsey and Sark; Heidelberg; Baden-Baden and Wiesbaden (the most beautiful German watering places), Meissen (near Dresden), ancient Rothenburg in Bavaria, Fritzlar (near Cassel), Prague, Bohemia, Elbogen, near Marienbad, AmalS and *Ravello, near Naples; Assisi; *San Gimignano, near *Siena; * Venice; Tivoh near Rome, and Cortina in the Aus- trian Tyrol. More remote and still more beautiful are Le Puy; *Rocomadour and medieval Carcassone in Southern France; Cintra, near Lisbon; Granada, Toledo and Ronda, Spain; Fez, Morocco; Schassburg, Austria; and *Ragusa and Cattaro, I>almatia. *See Washington, on your way East if possible, as a seat of government it is unique. The **Capitol is striking and magnificent; the Houses of Congress most interesting, es- pecially if the members are in session; the **Library of Congress is generally admitted to be one of the most beautiful of modern buildings. **Niagara Falls should be visited, if near, on your Eastern trip; it is the most impressive sight in the civilized world. Piazza Hotel (3 minutes from station), supper, bed, and break- fast, Si. 00; good. The Allen (near station), room, 50 cents up; Pension, $1.50 up. Temperance Hotel (opposite station), Pension, $2.00 per day. Cottage, 357 Second Street (near Falls), roem, 50 cents up. A trip by electric car over the bridge and through Canada to St. Catharines, thence by boat to *Toronto is picturesque, and is the best route. Round trip from Niagara Falls Bridge, 50 cents. This trip may be continued from Toronto, through the ♦Thousand Islands to Montreal with its many lines of low- priced, one-class, steamships to Europe. Philadelphia. — Hotel Wilmot, 1408 S. Penn Sq. (i minute from railroad station), room, $1.00. Keystone Hotel, 1526 Market Street (i minute from station), room, 75 cents. The Edouarde, 1422 Arch Street (2 minutes from station), room, 50 cents up. Child's restaurants at 1435 20 EUROPEAN GUIDE Chestnut Street, 1203 Market Street, etc. Ask for an ad- dress card. Jlanscom's restaurants are good: 1221 Chestnut Street, 1232 Market Street, etc. Automats at loi S. Juniper Street (central), 909 Market Street, etc. *The Academy of Fine Arts (central, free) and the Wilstach Gallery have good collections. New York. — *Smith and McNeil's Hotel, 199 Washing- ton Street (corner Fulton), room, 50 to 75 cents, good; meals low. Hotel St. Denis, 799 Broadway (corner nth street), room, $1.00. Hotel Van Cortlandt, 142 W. 49th Street, room, Si. 00. Oelrich's & Co., 5 Broadway, give free map of New York and two fine free books "How to See Ger- many" and "How to See Italy." Get "The Hotels of Switzer- land" at Swiss Bureau, 241 Fifth Avenue, and "Guide for Travelers in Italy," at Town and Country Bureau, 389 Fifth Avenue. For a quick sightseeing trip take Sixth Avenue elevated railroad for *Grant's tomb and view of the Hudson at 123d Street. Then back to Eighty-first street station, to *Natural History Museum. Walk across Central Park to *Metropo!i- tan Museum of Art, then down Fifth Avenue by electric bus (on top), and by West Broadway electric cars back to hotel. A one-day trip up the Hudson is magnificent; compare it with the Rhine. See the great *Public Li- brary with large *Picture Gallery at Fifth Avenue and 42d Street. Boston. — Crawford House, 85 Court Street, room, $1.00; and American House, 60 Hanover Street, room, $1.00; both at Scollay Square, a great centre. **Cobb's Lunch Rooms, *75 and 104 and 107 Court Street, fine, low. Gordon Cham- bers, 7 Ashburton Place (2 minutes from Scollay Square), room, so to 75 cents. *Commonwealth Hotel, 90 Bowdoin Place, room, $1.00 (2 minutes from Scollay Square). See the *State House, opposite, the *Public Library and Museum of Fine Arts; free Saturdays and Sundays. IRELAND Ireland is frequently visited for Killarney's somewhat miniature beauties. QUEENSTOWN: Rob Roy Hotel. Pens. 4 Sh. 6 D. Good. CORK: Mrs. Donovan, 6 Garfield Terrace; room, iM Sh. Pens. 3 }4 Sh. Mrs. Ingham, 7 Kings Terrace (near station), moderate. EUROPEAN GUIDE 21 KILLARNEY : Russell's Temperance Hotel (at station) ; room, 1 1 '2 Sh. Pens. 5 Sh. (Tours of lakes low from here.) Gleeson's Hotel. Pens. 5 Sh. Private house at 7 York Terrace. Pens. 5}^ Sh. Reidy's Central Hotel, Pens. 6 Sh. DUBLIN: Royal Exchange Hotel, Parliament Street at City Hall; room, 2 Sh. Clarence Hotel, Wellington Quay (central); room, 2 Sh. Midland Hotel, Upper Dominick Street (near Broad Street station); room, 2 Sh.; good. Wicklow Hotel, off Grafton, moderate. Dublin to Holy- head (North Wall Route), 3^2 hours. Ordinary fares: First cabin, 5 Sh. 6 D.; deck, 3 Sh.; express, first cabin, 8 Sh. Dublin to Belfast (North Wall), Monday, Wednesday, Fri- day, 10 hours; tirst cabin, 6 Sh.; deck, 3 Sh. Dublin Steam Packet Company, Dublin to Liverpool, 8 hours, daily, except Sunday. Deck 4 Sh. Belfast to Liverpool, 8 hours; deck, 6Sh. ENGLAND (SOUTHERN) AND ISLE OF WIGHT The Southampton route is now briefly considered to and including London. The journey from Glasgow (a far better and more comprehensive route, will then be given). SOUTHAMPTON: London and South Western Rail- way station, across street from exit of landing pier. *Check baggage at cloakroom. *Get a London and South Western Guide and List free at station. Continental Hotel, Oxford Street (i minute above station); room and breakfast, 3 Sh. Central Temperance Hotel is good and central. Pens. 6 Sh. 6 D. Room, 2 Sh. West station (few minutes by electric car), has many clean nice hotels near it. *See the New Forest with its great trees, a short walk or ride on electric car. The Continental Cafe, 47 High Street gives good meals for very moderate prices. The Isle of Wight is called "The Garden of England"; it is pretty and interesting. It is very near, and you can see most of it in a day. Ventnor: Montoto Cottage, High Street; Mrs. Vincent. Room, iH Sh.; breakfast, 6 D. *Shanklin: Jones' Temperance Hotel, Regent Street (2 minutes from station); moderate. Crab Hotel, at head of *Chine, verv antique; moderate. WINCHESTER: (Third-class fare, i Sh. Vo D.) Check bag at cloakroom. Buy *Borough Guide to Winchester, 2 D., at railway station, or at 153 High Street. Contains every attraction in city, map, beautifully illustrated. Ask any one direction of cathedral. (Ask questions always all 22 EUROPEAN GUIDE over Europe. Do not study maps; ask questions — ^much quicker.) Walk (always walk in Europe) toward cathedral. If you wish, buy from L. Newman, stationer, The Square (opposite Cathedral Avenue), "Notes on the Cathedrals," Nos. 2, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, lo, 14, 20, 21, 25, for i D. each. They are finely illustrated souvenir books of all the English cathe- drals. Then go to cathedral. Pay guide 6 D. for complete inspection. The great cathedrals of Europe are the most magnificent monuments of man's handiwork. They contain his masterpieces in painting, sculpture and devotional decoration. See them whenever you can, and try to love them. The cathedral cities are the finest; the most historically interesting of all the cities of England. This is a grand ex- ample and is the longest of all medieval churches, 564 feet. *The reredos (screen), with its crucifix is very lovely. A morning service at 10 a. m. is impressive and short. *Stop at Sharp's Temperance Hotel, 152 High Street. Very antique and pretty. Room, i Sh. 3 D. Meals fine and low. Ring bell twice on Sundays. At 2 Station Hill (at station) is another Sharp's restaurant and hotel; same terms. Oriel Temperance Hotel on City Road (i minute from sta- tion); room and breakfast, 3M Sh.; large, good. "The Coach and Horses" (off 144 High Street) and the "Old Bell and Crown" (off 137 High Street); room and breakfast, 2j^ Sh. Take third-class car for 23/0 Sh. to SALISBURY: Ask if you change cars and where (*ask this ever\^ time vou take a train in Europe). Check bag. Buy Borough Guide to Salisbury, 2 D., at railway bookstall.' Spend an hour at the cathedral, one of the most charming in Europe. Although not overwhelmingly large, its proportions and environs are beautiful. Oliver Wendell Holmes described it as "the apple of the eye of England." Pay guide 6 D. for complete inspection, including cloisters and Chapter House. It is entirely in one style and is harmonious and impres- sive. Its beautifully proportioned spire is 404 feet high, the loftiest in England. Mrs. Mann, 47 Rectory Road (5 minutes from station); room and breakfast, i H Sh. ; bath, etc., good. Mrs. Whereat, 6s New Street (near cathedral) ; moderate. Ye Olde Sarum Temperance Hotel, 23 High Street; very moderate. Crown Hotel, High Street; moderate. On Thursdays only you may see *Wilton House at Wilton. Walk there and see the great palace, fine pictures, etc. Admission, i Sh. Stonehenge is EUROPEAN GUIDE 2.^ surrounded by a fence and admission is i Sh. It is hardly- worth the time, trouble and expense. Take early train to LONDON: Waterloo Station. Check bag. Ask po- liceman or anj' one for underground station for Edgware Road, Paddington. Ten minutes, without change, takes you to Edgware Road Station. It is also easily reached by bus or underground from any part of London. A few minutes' walk out Harrow Road brings you to Mrs. Smelt's, 27 St. Mary's Terrace; room, i Sh.; breakfast, 6 D. Sunny rooms; good breakfast. Mrs. Hunt, 9 St. Mary's Terrace; room and breakfast, i Sh. 8 D. to 2 Sh. Mrs. Smith, 23 St. Mary s Terrace; room and breakfast, i3^^ Sh. Mrs. Wickens, 13 Fulham Place; room and breakfast, i]^ Sh. Similarly low prices on Dudley Place, Manor Place, Paddington Green, etc. (See signs in windows.) Many rooms near here. It is a pretty garden spot and a nice clean location. Lively both day and night. (Many parts of residential London are very dull in the evening.) *This is the best part of London for a shoft stav; it is between Hyde and Regent's Parks, near Marble A'rch. Underground and busses to all parts quickly. Whiteley's great department store is near, at Westbourne Grove and Bishop's Road. Walk ten minutes out Harrow Road past Paddington Station to this fashionable West End quarter. Opposite Whiteley's is the Express Dairy Co.'s Lunchroom at 83 Bishop's Road. Fine service; low. Car- way Road, at 73 Westbourne Grove, leads to Leinster Square, a beautiful neighborhood. Family pension, 27 Leinster Square, Hyde Park. W. 5H Sh. per day. Room and break- fast, 4 Sh. Many others near here. This is a few minutes from Kensington Palace in Hyde Park. Another location is Russell Square (this district embraces Guilford Street, Woburn Place, LTpper Bedford Place, etc.). This section is very quiet in the evenings. Room and breakfast costs 3 Sh. at 44, ,52, 54, 55, 63, 79, 90, and 91 Guilford Street (near British Museum). At Paddington Station are Cory's Hotel, 7 Spring Street; room, 2^ Sh. Ashton's Hotel, 126 Praed Street; room, 21^ Sh. Buy *"Daily Telegraph," i D. (the best daily newspaper) for many advertisements for boarding, lodging, rooms, etc.; look under "Russell Square," also street names. Buy **" What's On," i D. (at all newsstands and at railway stations), for many advertisements under "Russell Square" and other locations for rooms, etc. It contains every- thing going on in London — museums, galleries (free days), music halls, theatres, etc. Buy it surely. Family pension, 126-128-130 Gower Street (near Russell Square), 25 Sh, 24 EUROPEAN GUIDE per week; 4-5 Sh. day. Linton's Hotel, 53 Coram Street, Russell Square; full pension, 5H Sh. per day. Albion Hotel, 145 Gray's Inn Road (near King's Cross Station); room and breakfast, 2>'2 Sh. The very first thing after landing in London buy for 3 D. **A B C Guide to London at Chas. Baker & Co., 256 Edgware Road, or 41 Ludgate Hill (or at any bookstall), 100 pages, iS city maps, **underground railway map, etc. **Every thing in London in this book; buy it surely. See page 24 for list of free entrances each day and for special places of interest. See page 48 for Under- ground Railway Map. Straker's Printing House, 63 Ludgate Hill (near St. Paul's and Thos. Cook's Sons office), sells Ward, Lock & Co.'s Guides at very low prices, also beautiful postcards of British scenery, 12 for i D. *"Holiday Haunts" (issued by the Great Western railway for 3 D.), may be pro- cured at any station in London, Liverpool, etc. It is a fine guide, with Ust of thousands of rooms and lodgings between London and Liverpool. Used by English travelers only, it gives low terms and good service. Paddington Station (the Great Western terminus) is right at Edgware Road. The Great Western is the direct and best route to Windsor, Oxford, Birmingham, Liverpool, Wales, etc. By all means secure a copy of **"The Dover-Ostend European Guide," 500 pages, maps, etc. It is free. It is a complete guide to Europe (practically a "Baedeker"), and gives all hotels for each city, with terms, routes for all countries and places. It is \-ery valuable; insist on having one at offices Royal Belgian State Railway, 72 Regent Street, W., near Trafalgar Square. Their object in giving this book away is to sell Dover-Ostend sea tickets, and also Belgian Government Railway abonnements. So secure information about these and the guide. Also get *Belgian Time Tables and Tourist's Programme, 145 pages, at offices, free. London is the best place in the world for men's clothes and men's and women's gloves and notions. If you buy anything, order on your first or second day, so as not to be detained in London. Do not buy low-priced men's suits displayed in show windows; if you do, you will be greatly disappointed: they will be of poor quality and cut and will wear badly. Go to ** Alfred Webb Miles & Co., 6 to 1 2 Brook Street, Hanover Square, W. (You will be perfectly welcomed to inspect without buying.) Suits, £3 3 Sh.; 120 patterns, all styles. Cut and materials perfection. Good for many years' wear and of the highest possible grades. Buy all men's clothes here. *Alderton & Sons, 98 Cheapside (near St. EUROPEAN GUIDE 25 Paul's), are also fine, reliable, low priced tailors. Buy men's and women's gloves and notions at **W. Smith, 31 and ^^ Ludgate Hill (near St. Paul's). Finest goods at very low prices. Fowne's and Dent's gloves — men's, i Sh. 11 D.; women's, i Sh. and i Sh. 11 D. Buy all notions here. Go back into store. Nicholson's, Ltd., 50 to 53 St. Paul's Churchyard, is fine and low for women's apparel. *A. Stedall, Ltd., St. Paul's Churchyard, is also reliable and low priced. Bourne & Holiingsworth, 116 Oxford Street, women's shirt waists, etc. At II b Regent Street is the Swiss Federal Railway agency. All free books here. Get Hotels of Switzerland, Geneva, Lugano, Basle, Zurich, the Vierge-Zermatt Railway, Inter- laken, etc. You may have to pay for these in the city itself. The Photocrome Co.'s beautiful *natural color postcards of all Europe cost x D. each at 3 New Oxford Street or at 121 Cheapside; 250,000 subjects. Fleming's Restaurants, 68 Oxford Street and 307 Oxford Street, are good; low priced. Lipton's Tea Rooms (large restaurants) are fine. They are at 25 Oxford Street, at 265 Oxford Street, and at King's Cross Station. Apenrodt's Vienna Cafes at 17 and 269 Oxford Street (also at 24 Boul. des Itahens, Paris) are excellent. Their Spaten Brau Munich beer is worth trying. Go into Home and Colonial Store, 268 Edgware Road, and see notable food display. Enter and leave, *7 bus (the best and cheap- est) at Praed Street (229 Edgware Road). Fare to Totten- ham Court Road, a great centre near British Museum, i D.; to the Bank, Mansion House or Royal Exchange (see the fine frescoes here), 2 D.; a very long, interesting ride. Ask conductor or any bus inspector for free bus route card with all routes in city. On Sundays only No. 18 bus runs through Richmond, Kew Botanical Gardens and grand Bushy Park with hundreds of deer to **Hampton Court Palace (be sure to see the very large grape-vine). The fare is 10 D. Isaac's restaurant at 227 Edgware Road sells much fish. Halibut, plaice, and hake are good, prices low, beverages may be ordered. The most popular music halls are the Oxford and the TivoH. If possible see **Little Tich, *Wilkie Bard, George Robey, Sheridan, Mayo, etc. At the Dorland Press Agency, 3 Regent Street, S. W., guides and maps of all countries; many newspapers. Mail, registered letters may be sent here. The Brooklyn Eagle's "Guide to Paris" and Hotel St. Antoine's "Antwerp" are free. *The Dore Gallery, 35 New Bond Street, contains the finest 26 EUROPEAN GUIDE works of a great French genius. Admission, i Sh. If j'ou have trouble getting about, buy "London in a Nutshell," 2 D. at all newsstands; it tells how to get anywhere instantly. Walk from the ^Marble Arch down Uxbriclge Road for two minutes and see the *Chapel of the Ascension with its two hundred beautiful pictures. Many second-hand Baedeker's at 07 New Oxford Street, from i Sh. up. The Great Western Railway sells ten-day Tourist's Tickets from London to Chester (only a few miles from Liverpool), or vice versa, for 16 Sh. 6 D. Stop-offs allowed at Windsor, Reading, Oxford, Stratford, Leamington, Warwick, Birming- ham, Shrewsbury, and Chester. The Great Eastern Railway issues Tourist's Tickets at reduced rates in Glasgow, permitting stop-offs for 10 days altogether, through Edinburgh, IMelrose, Hexham, New- castle, Durham, York, Lincoln, Ely, CamlDridge to London. They also sell the same sort of Tourist Ticket at Liverpool through ^Manchester, Lincoln, Ely, Cambridge to London, with stop-offs allowed within 10 days. You might buy a Great Western Tourist Ticket from London to Chester, and a Great East .Tn Tourist Ticket from Liverpool to London, saving money and seeing everything. For many cheap daily excursions from London see "Daily Telegraph" and "News" and Sunday's "News of the World," I D. *The National Sunday League office, 34 Red Lion Square, W. C, for tickets, bills, etc., or at railway stations. (Sunday trips only.) To **Brighton and return, 9.30 a. m. train, 3 Sh.; 11.50 a. m. train, 2 Sh. 6 D. **Canterbury excursion, 3 Sh.; also Dover, Folkstone, Ramsgate, Margate, 3 Sh. 6 D.; and twenty other seaside and inland cities at same low rate. Get their list surely and save money. Restall's trips, ofiSce, 64 Cheapside, E. C. (excursions daily). Same rates for same cities; also many other cities. If bought day before trip, **Brighton and return, 2 Sh. 6 D.; **Canter- bury, 3 Sh., etc. Get their list surely. Thos. Cook & Son, cheap Saturday, Sunday, and Monday day trips to Brighton, Southampton, Bournemouth, etc. Office, Ludgate Circus. You may extend these to three days by paying extra. Watch these trips closely and you can save your regular fare in traveling in many cases either from or toward London. When you land at any railway station take a quick look around the office and waiting-room for any handbills an- nouncing local excursions. The third-class regular ticket from SaHsbury to London (83 miles) is 6 Sh. 11 D., yet day excursions are often given for 3 Sh. 6 D. You could save on EUROPEAN GUIDE 27 this. *A11 charge 6 D. extra for hand-bags if visible. Nearly all railways issue free guides with Usts of hotels, rooms, and lodgings on their lines. Tiie London and North Western issue many series of beautiful post cards of the cities of England, etc., M D. each. Get their list. The Great Northern issues a fine series of the great cathedrals, }i D. each. Get their list. Spend 6 D. at Brentano's for "How to Read the JNIenu," a complete exposition of all French dishes, useful here and in France. "A B C" restaurants and "L3'on's" restaurants furnish wholesome food at low prices and have many branches all over London. Do not spend too much time in London or in England; other countries are verj'^ interesting. *Temperance Hotels and Christian Associations offer low terms and good accommodations all through Europe. Make the most of advertised excursions, as these often sell return tickets for much less than a single regular fare. SCOTLAND *By far the most interesting, *the most economical and *the most desirable approach to Europe is by Glasgow. The Scotch people are unique, the Trossachs and the lakes exquisite, and *Edinburgh a proud and magnificent capital. You cannot help loving this beautiful land so lavishly decked with nature's gems. GLASGOW is an interesting city near many great at- tractions. Blain's Temperance Hotel, 4 Bath Street (2 min- utes back Queen's Street station) ; room and breakfast, 3 Sh. Good. Yuille's Temperance Hotel, 20 Bath Street, room and breakfast, 3 Sh. Station Temperance Hotel, i Cowcad- dens Street (5 minutes from Queen Street station and oppo- site Buchanan Street station); room, 2 Sh. *Caledonian Tem- perance. Hotel, II Cowcaddens Street; room 2 Sh. Good; new. Buchanan Street Station Hotel, 23 Cowcaddens Street, room, 2)^ Sh.; large. Mrs. Reid, 3 Holmshead Street (off Dundas Street and 2 minutes from Queen Street station, top flat); room and breakfast, i Sh. 9 D. Mrs. Deane (on same landing directly opposite); room and breakfast, I Sh. 9 D. Good. M'Innes's Temperance Hotel, 12 Hutch- ison Street (5 minutes from station); room, 2^^ Sh. *The Public House Trust, at 224 Sauchiehal Street (the main street, centre of city), serve all kinds of foods and drinks; best quality, low prices. It is a facsimile of a continental res- taurant; crowded from 12 to i. 28 EUROPE.\N GUIDE The Caledonian Railway Tourist Guide (3 D.) gives many low-priced tours from Glasgow, Edinburgh, etc.: Tour S B, Glasgow, Trossachs, Loch Lomond tour, 15 Sh. 10 D. Tour 8 C, Glasgow, Trossachs, Edinburgh tour, 17 Sh. *Tour 25 B, Loch Long and Loch Lomond, 4 Sh. 3 D. *Tour 25 c] Trossachs', Loch Lomond, Loch Long, 15 Sh. 11 D. Tues- days and Saturdays Loch Lomond tours by 1.56 p. m. train from Central Station, Low level. To Tarbet, 3 Sh. 5 D.; to Inversnaid, 3 Sh. 9 D., etc. (see opposite Tour 27). Thursday evening trips on Loch Lomond from Central Station at 6.30 p. m., 2 Sh. for three-hour trip. Similar trips on Tuesdays by North British railway from Queen Street station. Many low-priced tours in their Tourist Guide. Look on station walls for handbills of low-priced excursions. A lol^ Sh. tour of Loch Eck, Loch Long, and Kyles of Bute by "Lord of the Isles," from Bridge Wharf at 7.15 a. m., is fine. A "Borough Guide to Glasgow" is good, it costs 2 D. See the *Art Gallery, the *Cathedral, the Municipal Build- ings with fine interior, and the Rouken Glen. EDINBURGH: Gibson's Temperance Hotel, 3 Castle Terrace (i minute to r. of Princes Street station, Caledo- nian Railway); room and breakfast, sli Sh. Fine; meak low. Victoria Temperance Hotel, i Erkskine Place (i minute to 1. station); room and breakfast, 3 Sh. Good. Maitland Temperance Hotel, S3 Shandwick Place (2 minutes to I. station); low. Houston's Temperance Hotel, 31 Lothian Road (3 minutes from station) ; room and breakfast, 3 H Sh. *Kenilworth Temperance Hotel, 35 Leith Street (2 minutes from North British Railway, Princes Street station); room, iH and 2 Sh.; breakfast, i Sh. Good. (Ask for their hotel card. It contains all attractions; free admission, etc.) Dalmeny Temperance Hotel, 47 Leith Street; room, 2 Sh. Younie's Temperance Hotel, 55 Leith Street, room, 2 Sh. Roseberry Temperance Hotel, gg Leith Street, room, 23^2 Sh. Milne's Hotel, 143 Leith Street; room, 2 Sh. Opposite on Union Place Windermere House, No. 12; room, 2 Sh. Grey's Hotel, No. 6; room, 2 Sh. Littlejohn's restaurant, 33 Leith Street. Fine, low. *Blair's Guide to Edinburgh, 2D., gives all points of interest. See Abraham Lincoln's monument in Calton Burying Ground (in centre of city at Calton Hill; good view from here). View from the castle and grand view from Arthur's Seat. The National Gallery (Princes Street) contains probably the finest Gainesborough in the world and superb examples of Franz Hals, Rembrandt, Van Dyck, *Raeburn, Watteau, Greuze, etc. Observe Sir J. Noel EUROPEAN GUIDE zg Paton's two beautiful (though very sharply drawn) "Mid- summer Night" pictures. Ten minutes walk up the hill from here, following the car tracks, leads you to historic Greyfriars' Churchyard (at Candlemaker's'Row). Notice the statue just outside the entrance erected by Baroness Burdette-Coutts to Grey- friars' Bobby. This faithful Scotch terrier stayed at his master's grave from 1858 until his own death in 1872. See his marble statue and inscription at the httle corner restaurant, just above, where he was fed during his long vi^dl. *The Royal Scottish Museum, Chambers Street (central), is well worth seeing. It is free. ENGLAND (EASTERN) From Edinburgh south by rail to Melrose and AbbottS- ford, Newcastle (which may also be reached by boat from Edinburgh), and the great cathedral city of DURHAM: The cathedral (partly Romanesque and partly Gothic) is very old and rich and is the most grandly situated in England, on the heights above the town. Neville Hotel (2 minutes to I. station down hill), opposite 68 North Road; room, 2 Sh. The Rose and Crown Hotel, i Silver Street (centre of city) ; room, 2 Sh. Queen's Head Hotel, 30 Silver Street; room, 2 Sh. Castle Hotel, 19 Silver Street; room, 2H Sh. A. Chapman, 73 North Road (2 minutes from station); room and breakfast, 2 Sh.; plain. Gee's "A Day in Durham" is a good guide, i D. YORK: A very interesting walled city and a great out- post of the Romans; many remains of their reign have been exhumed. Burn's Hotel, Tanner Row; room, i and 114 Sh. Full board, 4 Sh. (opposite 28 Tanner Row, i minute to 1. station).. Plain. *Micklebar Gate Restaurant Hotel, 58 Micklegate (s minutes from railway station, up hill); room, i}4 Sh. Meals low, good. Falcon Hotel, 70 Micklegate; room, 2 Sh. Central Hotel, 72 Micklegate; room, 2}4 Sh. Bell Hotel, 89 Micklegate; room, iH and 2 Sh.; good. The cathedral is large and impressive, the Chapter House the most beautiful in England, the stained glass rich and extensive. John Heywood's "Guide to York," i D., 32 pages, map; gives all details. Buy it from Miss Chapman at Minster Gates. *Notice the ancient street called Stone Gate at East of cathedral. 30 EUROPEAN GUIDE LINCOLN: The cathedral is probably the noblest in England; it is conceded to be the most perfect by all archi- tects. Waverly Hotel, High Street (3 minutes from station); moderate, good. PETERBOROUGH: The great cathedral is mostly Romanesque. *It has a remarkable West facade (front) of three vast arches; unique in England. House's Commercial Hotel, 28 Narrow Street (centre of city); room, 2 Sh.; good. Golden Lion Hotel, 34 Narrow Street; room, 2 Sh. City Temperance Hotel, 4 Broadway (corner Bishop's Road); rt)om, 13/2 Sh.; good. ELY: The cathedral is grand (only Lincoln and York excel it), the Lady Chapel is exquisite. The famous octagon over the choir is very striking, unfortunately, however, it is not of stone. Turner's City Hotel, Market Place, room, 2 Sh. Pension, 4 Sh. 6 D. CAMBRIDGE: A sylvan, beautiful city second only to Oxford; the colleges and the "Backs" (lawns leading down to the river) are very attractive. See the superb fan tracery (only seen in England) on the vaulting (ceiUng) of *King's College Chapel. This is one of the tliree great examples, the others being Henry the Seventh's Chapel, Westminster Abbey, London (which is rich in the tombs of many kings and queens), and the Royal Chapel at Windsor. Livingstone Temperance Hotel, 16 Petty Cury (near Christ's College); room, 2,1 2 Sh. Sirdar Hotel, 14 ^Market Street (near Town Hall); room, 2}^ Sh. Bird Bolt Tem- perance Hotel, St. Andrew's Street (opposite Emmanuel College'); low. LONDON: (See before.) King's Cross Station. Take underground railway to Edgware Road for a good location or Russell Square may be visited. *Albion Hotel, 145 Gray's Inn Road is near (2 minutes from station by electric car or five minutes, walk); room and breakfast, 2j^ Sh.; good. France should be visited after England. The inhabitaiits disdain the English language, and make no effort to acquire it. They are polite if you try to speak French, as you com- pliment them by your efforts; otherwise they are very inat- tentive. Never use any but the native language of a country or a language used in part by the people. Discard English from now on. By speaking a few words of German, it is very easy to get along in Belgium, Holland, Germany, Aus- tria, Switzerland, and at many German hotels in Italy. Three or four short phrases and a few odd words, say thirty in all, are suflficient. In Italy very little Italian is needed; the EUROPE.\N GUIDE 31 same few words and phrases. Learn mostly nouns, few adjec- lives and verbs, German. Frcnch. Italian. a (one). eine. un. uno. bath. bad. bain. bagno. bed, beds. bett, betten. ht. letto. bill of fare. speise karte. menu. Carta del Gior- no or hsta. cathedral. dom. cathedrale. dom. can. kann. pourrais. potrei. change cars. umsteigen. changeur. combiamento. church. kirche. egUse. chiesa. drink. trinken. boire. bevere. eat. essen. manger. mangiare. electric (car). electrische (bahn). electrique. elettrizo. go. gehen. aller. andate. have you. haben sie. avez vous. avete. how much? was ist costa? combien? quanto costa? in. eingang. entree. entrata, ingresso. key. schliissel. clef. chiave. left (to). links. gauche. sinistra. money. geld. Fargent. danaro. no. nein. non. no. out. ausgang. sortie. uscita. pail (for water) . eimer. seau. secchia. postoffice (main ) post (haupt).poste. posta. right (to). rechts. droit. destra. return. zuriick. retour. ritorno. room. zimmer. chambre. stanza. railway. eisenbahn. chemin de fer strada ferrata. station (main). bahnhof gare. stazione, (haupt). strada ferrata. street. strasse. rue. via. stay. bleiben. resterons. restare. train. zug. train. treno. together (serve alles zusam- meals) . men; alles auf ein mal. ticket. fahrkarte. billet. biglietto. to. nach. a. per. where is? wo ist? ou est? dove? yes. ja. oui. si. 32 EUROPEAN GUIDE *From now on be extremely polite. Touch or raise your hat on any inquiry or give military salute and thank all who respond to your inquiries. It is an "open sesame" to many beautiful things you would not otherwise see. Police officers are nearly always near at hand, but they need not answer your questions; *they are only obliged to preserve order. However, if you address them in a polite, friendly way they will help you all they can. ♦Always eat continental breakfasts — coffee and rolls. Do not try to order anything else, as this is all they have facilities for serving early in the day. Get used to it. As drinking-water is not used to any extent on the continent (although you can get it if you ask for it anywhere, and it is almost always pure and good), a few words of explanation may be given regarding beverages. IMany of the French wines are transportable without injury and are adulterated; of inferior quality and dear. The best wines are quietly bought up by the rich. Italian wines are ruined if trans- ported; consequently they are local, low in price, pure and fine. In Germany and other countries the beers are health- ful and good ("liunkel," dark; "Hell," light). As meals are generally served at very moderate prices, the hotel keeper looks for a little profit on the wine or beer con- sumed. Say "alles zusammen" (in Germany and Austria) if you wish two or more meals served together, as they often serve each order separately. The railways seem determined to get as much from you as possible on the London-Paris trip, or else make it un- comfortable for you. Third class at reasonable rates runs only at night, though good 7 days with stop-off privileges. The Xewhaven-Dieppe-Rouen route (London, Brighton, and South Coast Railway, Victoria Station), which is very attractive, costs 28 Sh. for second-class day tickets, good for stopping at Rouen (which you should see by all means). If 3^ou are able and willing to stop off at this great medieval city at 4.31 a. m. and resume your journey one or two days after at the same time, you may buy third-class ticket to Paris for 18 Sh. 7 D., a very great saving. *The London, Brighton and South Coast Railway, Victoria Station, London, sells third-class excursion tickets (notice these are cheaper than single fares) to Paris for 17 Sh., leaving Victoria Station at 8.45 p. m. Saturdays only. You may return, if you wish, at 9.20 p. m. Sunday only. The journey cannot be broken en route. (Second-class tickets, 22 Sh. 6 D.) Secure a free copy of their Continental Time Book. It contains maps of EUROPEAN GUIDE 33 many French Zone Tickets (Normandy, Brittany, etc.), also of other countries. This company also issues cheap third- class tickets to Dieppe, for 14 Sh. g D.; to Rouen for 15 Sh, 8 D.; second class (day service), to Dieppe, 20 Sh.; third' class fare, Dieppe to Rouen, 3 Fr.; third-class fare, Rouen to Paris, 5 Fr. 30 Cent. The third-class boat accommodations are poor, but you are on them only a few hours; if clear stay on deck. Get handbills, etc., from Continental Manager, Victoria Station. The London and South Western Railway, Waterloo Station, London, sells second-class (24 Sh.) tickets to Paris (no third class), by Souiha ir.jtoii "fJavre, Rouen, every night, except Sunday, all year round. Fast, comfortable steamers; baths, cabin berths, etc., no extra charge. As stop-offs are allowed everywhere, this is a fine opportunity to see Havre, with its beautiful surroundings (Honfleur, Trou- ville, etc.), and Rouen. This route has fine scenery. See London and South ^\'estern Railway Guide. It is free. Thv^ South Eastern and Chatham Railway, Charing Cross Station, London, issues third-class (20 Sh.) week-end tickets to Paris every Saturday, leaving London at g p. m. Returning from Paris Monday at 8.20 a. m. See handbills and gratuitous *Continental Time Tables; S. E. and C. Railway, yellow pages at end of book. (*This book contains fine **map of Paris, with all attrac- tions very plainly shown. Go get one.) Probably the best and cheapest ticket is that of the London, Brighton and South Coast Railway from Victoria Station (near Westminster Abbey) to **Rouen. A single ticket by the 8.45 p. m. train (this is the only train) costs 15 Sh. 8 D. Rouen is reached at 4.31 a. m. (**Rouen should surely be seen.) Third-class ordinary trains run from here to the St. Lazare station (sometimes called Gare L'Ouest). Paris, at all hours; fare 5 Fr. 30 Cent. See Index in L. B. & S. C. ♦Continental Time Book for Train Service, Dieppe and Paris (via Rouen), about page 62. FRANCE The grandest Gothic structures in France (probably Elurope) are the Palais Justice and St. Ouen in Rouen; Notre Dame, Paris, and the cathedrals at Rouen, Amiens, Chartres, Bourges, Rheims, Laon, Coutances, Beauvais, and Bayeux. Hence the necessity for visiting Rouen. In stop- ping at your first French city *check bag as usual at the 34 EUROPEAN GUIDE "Bureau de Bagages." Always stop at cities en route; make the most of your trip. DIEPPE : Beaufort House, 6 Rue Toustain. Moderate. Brau's Pension, 32 Rue Gambetta. Pens. 6 Fr.; room, 2 Fr. Magnificent shore; high cUffs. The bathing costumes at Dieppe, Ostend, and at Lido (Venice) are the most charm- ing in Europe. HAVRE m.ay be visited. Normandy Hotel, 106 Rue de Paris (central), room, 3 Fr. Gd. Hotel Parisien (opposite station); room, 2 Fr. Hotel d'Angleterre, Rue de Paris, 124 and 116; room, 3 Fr. Say to proprietor, poUtely (politeness saves money). Monsieur! un chambre, avec deux lits, pour trois (quatre) (francs)? (Have you) a room with two beds for three (four) francs? INIortrez moi. Show me. **As you have no baggage, always pay your room rent in advance and receive receipt on card of hotel. Eat where you please. You thus ha\c no necessity for tipping. *ROUEN: (Better stop two days at this fine old city which is one of the most interesting, both historicallj' and architecturally, in all France.) Hot Victoria, 10 Rue Verte (i minute to 1. of station); room, 2J-2 Fr. Hotel de Nor- mandie. Rue de Bee, 9-13; room, 23/0 Fr.; pens.; 7J^2 Fr. M. Panel, Family Hotel, 18 Rue Nationale; pens.; 43^ to 6 Fr. per day. **The Cathedral and **St. Guen are fine Gothic structures; St. Maclou and the *Palais de Justice very note- worthy. Rouen contains sixteen great examples of the Gothic and is the most important town for medieval archi- tecture in France. The ISIusee de Peintures contains over six hundred pictures; many of them masterpieces. **Take electric cars (20 centimes) to church Bon Secour; beautiful view. Take early train to PARIS, arriving at Gare (station) St. La^are. Check bag at "Bureau de Bagages," outside of the station, to the left. (It has many checking rooms.) Walk to Rue St. Lazare (one minute in front of station) and take black electric car on far side of Rue St. Lazare, going toward East to Gare du Nord (see sign on car). Write on card "Hotel Maison Meuble," 32 Rue des Petit-Hotels, and show to con- ductor. Give him 10 centimes, and in ten minutes he will stop at the street for you. Grand church St. Vincent de Paul fronts this street, which is two minutes from the Gare du Nord, and at 108 Rue de Lafayette. Say to A. Porraz, proprietor, "Chambre meubles, monsieur?" He will say, "Qui," and show you. ij^ to 2 Fr. per day; fun franc cin- Quante (pronounced songkont) centimes (sawnteem) a deux EUROPEAN GUIDE 35 (dee) francs par jour.) 20 Fr. per month. "Chambres avec deux lits" (rooms with two beds), 3 to 4 Fr. per day; 30 to 40 Fr. per month. Hotel de Valicennes, 18 Rue des Petit- Hotels; room, 2 Fr. (Grand Bains (Baths) Magenta within.) Good. Hotel Nord Est, 12 Rue des Petit-Hotels; room, 1]^ and 2 Fr.; 16 Fr. per month. All clean, fine hotels; only known to the French; consequently low priced. Buy break- fast at E. Coulon's, 2 Boulevard Denain (one block away); fine coffee "au lait" (with milk), deUcious rolls — 30 to 50 centimes for all. Eat out on the Boulevard as all French do here. The Metropolitan underground exit is just at hand at corner Rue Lafayette; the entrance is one block above. It is a great time saver, reaches every part of Paris and is low priced; 25 centimes for first class, 15 centimes for second class. It touches all railway stations and you can carry hand-bags free. A small MetropoUtan guide costs 10 centimes at q8 Rue de Hauteville. Notice **St. Vincent de Paul in the Greek style and formerly in colors. It is a remarkable effort. At 75 Boulevard de Magenta (far end of Rue des Petit- Hotels) the Faubourg St. Denis, a big busy street, runs to centre of city. Rue D "Hauteville (in front of St. Vincent de Paul) leads to centre of city, or take white bus marked Gare du Nord-Place d'Alma, it is half-price if you sit on top and you see more. Just West of the Rue D 'Hauteville is Rue de Faubourg Poisonniere, a busy main street often crowded by clerks and salesladies who use it as a direct route to centre of city. (Its continuation leads to the great Halles Centrales (markets), the Louvre, Pont Neuf, He de la Cite, Notre Dame, etc., the most interesting part of Paris, both historically and architecturally). **Restaurant de la Jeune France, 75 Rue de Faubourg Poisonniere (3 minutes from Rue des Petit- Hotels) gives the finest meal in the city for i Fr. 10 centimes, consisting of Potage (soup), or Hors-d'Oeuvre (appetizer such as Pate de fois Gras, which is very good), one Plat de viande (any roast or stew with vegetable), one Legume ou Poisson (one plate of special vegetable or an order of fish), one dessert (many varieties), one pint bottle of very good quality and strong red or white wine {14 bout Vin. rouge ou blanc), beer (biere) or milk (lait). An unlimited amount of bread (about a yard) is furnished. Elegantly appointed, good service, clean napkins, cloths, etc. Large upper floor for ladies. Extra orders cost from 10 to 40 centimes. Restau- rant Pigeat, 58 Rue de Paradis (one minute from here) also gives a good meal for i Fr.; the surroundings are plainer however. Many hotels near here. Notice the fine art work 36 EUROPEAN GUIDE in many stores on Rue de Paradis. Hotel Angouleme, 53 Rue de Paradis; room, 2 Fr. Good. Hotel de Parme, 78 Rue de Faubourg Poissonniere; room, 2 Fr. Hotel de la Nouvelle France, No. 23 Rue des Messageries; room, 2 Fr.; also on this street Maison IMeuble, No. 16; Hotel de Messageries, No. 19; Hotel Pyrennes, No. 15; Hotel du Commerce, No. 13 (fine). Hotel de Minerva, No. 10 (good); all charge i>^ to 2 Fr. per day. Hotel de Cha- brol, 46 Rue de Chabrol (i minute from Hotel Maison Meuble); room, 2 Fr.; good, clean; Family hotel, 11 Rue de Montholon (2 minutes from Rue des Petit-Hotels), large, good, moderate; also at No. 15 is Hotel Montholon, nice, clean; room, 2 Ft.; or 20 Fr. per month. Ten minutes' walk South on Rue des Faubourg Poisonniere takes you to the busy centre of the city at Boulevard Poisonniere (just here at No. 17 is Gimbel Bros, offices with papers from all parts, etc., visitors welcomed); next is Boulevard di Bonne Nouvelle (a continuation of Boul. Poisonniere) and Boul. des Italiens, a very gay thoroughfare. *Marguery's great restaurant is at this corner at No. 34. It is very famous and very moderate priced. Sole a la Marguery is a specialty. Opposite is the Daily Mail Office, 34 Rue du Sentier; here buy **"The Daily Mail," Continental Edition, 16 pages, with Shopping and Amusement Guide, 8 pages, for 15 centimes. "The Daily Mail" (page i) has "What to do in Paris Today," and amuse- ments, etc., page 4. The 8-page Guide has maps of Paris and every attraction; complete and fine. "La Semaine (week) de Paris" (22 pages, free) gives everything going on in Paris during the week. Hundreds of free guides to every city and country in Europe. The "Bon Marche" Depart- ment Store (near the grand **Musee du Cluny) gives away a fine English guide book with maps of Paris. Get one and see the Bon Marche Art Gallery. "How to Read the Menu" (formerly mentioned in London) tells how to know and order all French dishes and food. Six pence at Brentano's, 37 Avenue de I'Opera (near Grand Opera House). Restaurant Richelieu, no Rue Richelieu (near Boulevard des Italiens), is good. Dinner, i Fr. 75 C. (It is near Credit Lyonnaise, the great bank, where you should change all money.) Mau- bert's, 104 Rue Richelieu, has good cooking and is low. When you dine, take a menu home and study it. Bouillon des Halles, Rue St. Honore 71, is good and cheap. Downtown near the Louvre (at 194 Rue de Rivoli) is a gilded statue of Joan of Arc on horseback. Rue de San Roch is just back of this. Hotel Tour de San Roch, 29 Rue de San Roch; room, 2 EUROPEAN GUIDE 37 Fr, Hotel St. Roch, 25 Rue de San Roch; room, 2 Fr. Hotel de Athens, 178 Rue St. Honore (very near); room 2 Fr. (One minute from the Louvre, next street parallel with Rue de RivoH), Hotel Z^Iarengo, 156 Rue St. Honore; room, 2 Fr.; 20 Fr. per month. Hotel de Bourgogne, 140 Rue St. Honore, room, i>2 Fr. Good. Hotel di L'Ouest, No. 146; and Hotel de L'Oratoire, No. 141 Ditto; rooms, i>^ and 2 Fr. Hotel de Londres et de Brighton, 13 Rue de San Roch (corner Rue St. Honore); terms low. Swiss restaurant, 17 Rue de San Roch; English spoken; good meals with wine, i Fr. Also No. 21; good, low-priced meals; all French here. *In Paris only the hand baggage is extortionately charged for if left over three days at station. Prices are doubled every day; see your check. A week's storage will cost 3 Fr. for one piece. Take bag to hotel by underground, car, or bus without charge, or *take out and recheck; many hand baggage rooms in each station. After June ist fruits and flowers are offered in profusion throughout France and Belgium. In Rue du Faubourg- Poisonniere, fine roses, 5 centimes a bunch; large strawberries, cherries, etc., 20 centimes K Kilo (i lb.). *Very Httle sugar is used on the continent and very httle served. Buy a pound and carry a few lumps with you; it will save everlasting ask- ing and astonishment. *The Grand Guignol, 20 bis Rue Chaptal (near Gare St. Lazare) is the theatre that gives you the most thrills for your money. The plays are extremely reaUstic, so do not go unless you have strong nerves. It is an unique institution. Admission, 5 Fr. Many fine costumes are shown. Paris is very popular, but to aH^ast majority it is irritatingly expen- sive. Follow the directions given and you will find it the most pleasant and *most economical city in Europe. By all rjieans see Versailles; tram from the Louvre, i Fr. Take lunch with you. Notice Lemoine's magnificent Apotheosis of Hercules on the ceiling of the Salon d'Hercules, in the palace. It contains 142 figures and is perhaps the greatest decorative painting in France. *Chartres has a grand cathedral (many think it the great- est of all Gothic churches), and is near Paris. A delightful circular trip embracing Versailles, Chartres, Orleans (to Tours?), Fontainbleu, Melun and Paris may be taken. For extensive travel, railway kilometre books, good 30 days, for 187 miles, to 60 days, 3000 miles, are issued. They save 25 to 60 %. France is divided into seven railway divi- 38 EUROPEAN GUIDE sions (as is Italy). In each division district 15 days' unlimited travel, first class, 68 Fr.; second class, 46 Fr.; third class, 36 Fr.; for 30 days' travel prices 5.5% more. You also get free pass from Paris to boundary of division district selected. Inquire about these at a A. Schenker, 8 Rue de St. Quentin (near Rue des Petit-Hotels) or at Voyages Duchemin, 20 Rue de Grammont (near Daily Mail Office). Leaving France, go from Paris to *BEAUVAIS (great cathedral), and on to ** AMIENS (grandest cathedral in the Gothic style and the largest in France. See crypt and treasure, 50 centimes). The difference in Enghsh and French architecture is interestingly shown here. The height of the nave of beautiful Salisbury Cathedral is 84 feet; the height of this nave is 147 feet. Hotel de la Paix, Rue Dumeril 15; room, 2j^ Fr. Restaurant Contentieux, 12 Rue de Rcpub- lique (centre of city near large street clock); Dejeuner or Diner, 1.25 Fr. Restaurant Au Filet de Sole, 35 Rue AUart (S minutes below cathedral just off Place Rene Goblet); Dejeuner or Diner, 1.50 Fr.; also rooms, low price. See the Musee de Picardie with many paintings. Stop at ARRAS (the portal of the cathedral is fine, the interior contains many pictures). Hotel Restaurant Daquet- Tailliar, 38 Rue Gambetta (near station); room, 2 to 2j^ Fr. Cafe-Rest Omer, 9 Rue Gambetta (opposite cathedral); room, 2 to 2M Fr. Cafe de L'Hotel de Ville, i Rue St. Gery (opposite great City Hall and *Grand Square); room, 2 Fr. DOUAI has a good art gallery. VALENCIENNES has a fine picture gallery specially Flemish in character. 'i'LILLE (fine architecture and **great art gallery, the most notable in France outside of Paris. See it surely). Hotel de Brusselles, Rue des Buisses and Rue du Vieux- Faubourg (near station); room, 2 Fr.; pension; yji Fr. Hotel-Restaurant de L'Abondance, 42 Rue de Priez (i min- ute from station); room, 2 Fr. (meals, 114 Fr.). Hotel de Dunkerque, 28 Ditto; room 2 Fr. (for two,"3 Fr.) (meals, j]i Fr.). Hotel Ceser Hostequint, 24 bis Ditto; room, 2 Fr. (meals, 1J4 Fr.). Hotel-Restaurant Alcidi, 5 Rue de Debris St. Etienne (centre of citj'' near square); room, 2 Fr.; pension complete; 6}4 Fr. A fine hotel. Hotel Metropole, 10 Ditto; room, 2 Fr. Automat at 30 Rue des Ponts de Comines (at main street Rue Faidherbe) **The Wicar Art Gallery, an imposing edifice, contains a large and rich collection of over 800 paintings, much statuary, etc. Free. From now on you will use the following German words EUROPE.\N GUIDE 39 constantly in all countries except perhaps Italy (although many German hotels are in ItaUan cities), so they are here repeated. (These are about all the words and phrases you need to know.) Haben sie ein zimmer mit ein bett? (Zwei betten?) Have j^ou a room with one bed? (Two beds?) (For two persons two beds are nearly always provided; sometimes a large bed (ein grosser bett) is offered apologetically.) Was ist costa mit f riihstiick? What is the cost (of the room) with breakfast? It is always best to ask for breakfast with room; it is given at a much lower price, and is generally ex- pected to be taken with the room. Zeigen sie mir. Show me. Est ist gut. It is good. If you think you can do better say: Ich \xi\\ sehen (I will see), so i'ou can return if not otherwise suited. If the proprietor says Es ist alles besetzt. (It is all occu- pied), all the rooms are taken, so look elsewhere. In the morning the hotel proprietor may say Bleiben sie? Will you stay? You must then say Ja (yes), Xein (no), or Ich will sehen. Geben sie mir dieser (give me this), and desig- nating will bring 3-ou any food or drink on the bill of fare. Strasse or str. means street. Use these few German phrases from now on. BELGIUM ^Belgium is the Italy of the North; it is rich artistically and architecturally, having largely escaped the terrible de- struction which accompanies wars, rebellions and religious fanatacism. It is of small area, yet contains great treasures of art. The Flemish School of painting embraced the great Rubens, a prince of painters, and his renowned assistant, Van Dyck; Jacob Jordaens, vigorous and exuberant; Gas- pard de Grayer, and many others. COURTRAI is an interesting old city where a 5- or is-day Belgian abonnement may be bought; (they may be bought in any Belgian city). Five days unlimited travel over 3000 miles of railway costs 30?! Fr., first class; 2oi/^ Fr., second class: ii^i Fr.. third class. 15-day tickets cost double these amounts. *"The Tourist's Guide to the Continent" by Percy Lindley, is valuable from now on. Hotel des Flanders (opposite station); room and breakfast, 2 Fr.; good. Hotel de Gand (at station); room, 2 Fr. Hotel de Nord (opposite station); room, 2 Fr. In the pretty little Art Gallery No. 116, "Jean d'Arc," by Lieven VermotC; is especially beautiful; 40 EUROPEAN GUIDE also "Hans Memlinc's Masterpiece Admired by the Nuns" with MemUnc's portrait in the picture. Admission free. TOURNAI, a few miles away, contains *Notre Dame Cathedral, a church of the front rank and one of the most splendid monuments in Belgium. Hotel Belle-Vue (opposite station); room, 2 Fr.; good. Go at once to AUDENARDE or OUDENARDE for its fine architecture. The Town Hall in the Grand Place is richly ornamented. Hotel du Saumon (opposite Town Hall, or, as it is always called, Hotel de Ville) ; room, 2 Fr. Hotel de la Pomme DOr, Grand Place (opposite Town Hall); room and breakfast 23-2 Fr. Also go to YPRES for its vast, enormous and bewildering Cloth Hall; a city in itself. See the cathedral; the choir is one of the most monumental of its period. OSTEND: Ship Hotel, 19 S. Petrus en Paulus Plaat; room, 23-2 Fr. Good, new (2 minutes to railway station; near Dover-Ostend Quai). Windsor Castle Hotel, No. 10 Ditto; room, 23-2 Fr.; pension, 73-2 Fr. Many good, low-priced hotels on this square. *Hotel Brittanique, 54 Rue Joseph 2d (2 minutes to r. of station; corner Rue de la Chapelle, *meals low, good; popular); room, 23^ Fr.; pension, 7 Fr. Good. *Be careful in Ostend and in all entry ports, as sharp practises and high prices pre\ail. *The General Steam Navigation Co. (the oldest steamboat company in the world, and one of the best) run boats on Thursdays and Sundays at 1 2 noon from Ostend to London, and from London to Ostend on \\ednesdays and Saturdays at 9 a. m. Single tickets cost 10 Fr. (8 Sh.), return tickets, good two months, 12 Sh. 6 D., or equivalent. They run from 8 Quai des Pecheurs (i minute from Belgian line railway to Bruges, and just alongside Dover-Ostend Line Quai), and land at St. Katherine's Wharf, Tower Bridge, London, in nine hours. Two meals on board cost 3 Sh. 6 D. for both, or you may carr>' lunch. All one class; every convenience; recommended for its cheapness and good service. It is a great favorite with the English. Ask for their large sailing list to manv ports. BRUGES: Fine pension, H. Dejonghe, 35 Rue St. Jac- ques (in front of belfry) ; 5 Fr. Hotel St. Amand, 5 Rue St. Amand; pension; 5 Fr. Hotel Cafe Beige, C 45 Quidzand Street (i minute from station); room, l^ Fr. Hotel du Comte de Flandre, C 47 Ditto; room, 2 Fr. Hotel Metropole (opposite station); room, 2 Fr. Hotel de Courtrai, No. 5 Place de la Station (opposite station); room, 2 Fr.; good. EUROPEAN GUIDE 41 *The Patissiere, E 27 Groot Markt (facing the Belfry); room and breakfast, 3 Fr. (5 Fr. for two). Pretty and new. This antique city (the most interesting in Europe outside of Italy) is very rich artistically. It is the Northern Venice with its silent canals; the Northern Florence with its striking archi- tecture and its *complete cycle of Flemish art. The cathedral shows many treasures; *Notre Dame contains Michael Angelo's **Madonna and Child, a small, exquisite marble group executed about 1504- This is absolutely his own work and will repay careful study. Notice Van Dyck's Cruci- fixion to the right; also Van Cost's two fine pictures. The bronze tombs of Charles the Bold and Mary of Burgundy are very elaborate, but hardly worth one franc to see them. See rich St. Jacques church (on Rue St. Jacques; 2 minutes from Belfry). ... . ,t **Pay I Fr. to see Memling's gallery of pamtings m Hos- pice St. Jean. **Pay so centimes for entrance to Academy of Fine Arts. *Do not pay anything at any time to see veiled pictures m churches here or anywhere else. It is a miserable catch- penny scheme. You will see enough old masters without them. Ruben's works are hung by hundreds all over Europe. Pay only for seeing galleries of paintings. Observe art work everywhere in the city. Your Belgian Time Tables and Tourist Programme (given away at 72 Regent Street, London) gives every point of interest in each city and extended itineraries by streets for long and short stays. GHENT : Hotel de la Ville de Termonde, 44 Rue de la Station (near station); room, 2 Fr. Hotel Tivoli, 6g Rue de Flandre (near station); room, 2 Fr. Hotel de la Cour D'Autriche, 81 Ditto; room, 2 Fr. Hotel Ganda, 17 Rue Digue de Brebant (near station); room, 2 Fr. Hotel Restau- rant Bouard, 9 Rue Courte de la Croix (near cathedral); room, 2}/2 Fr.; pension; 6 Fr. Hotel de la Cour St. Georges, 46 Haut Port (near Town Hall) ; room, 2 Fr. Pension Mag- nier, 15 Rue Guinard (10 minutes from station); pension; 5 Fr. Good. Cafe le Coq, 16 Place St. Bavon (at cathedral; opposite Grand Theatre); room, 2 Fr. Good. Hotel du Comte d'Egmont, 9 Rue de la Catalogue (opposite Rathaus) room and breakfast, 2^ Fr.; good. Hotel de la Cloche, 29 Quai des Tonneliers (near South station); room, 2 Fr. Hotel D'AUenmagne (Deutsch Gasthof), 16 Rue Courte de la Monnaie (central); room and breakfast, 2)^ Fr. Hotel National (opposite Rathaus); room, 2H Fr. New. *The 42 EUROPEAN GUIDE Cathedral of St. Bavoii contains Van Eyck's magnificent "Adoration of the Lamb," the first great work of the Flemish School, also many other noble works. **Take electric car No. 4 to the Art Gallery (admission, lo centimes), a striking, well arranged collection. S. 39. Joannes de Cleef s "St. Joseph and Jesus" is very fine; also 1883 G. Prion's "Young Satyr and Faun" and 1880 G. Parrot's lovely "Printemps" (Sprhig). *The best works of Gaspard de Grayer are here. This fine artist's creations were greatly admired by Rubens; they are in all the leading galleries and are beautiful in spirit and execution. If no abonnement is bought, Brussels, Lou vain, Mechlin (Malines), Antwerp (Anvers), and thence to Holland. Belgium is so small it costs little to see it. *Fremdenverkehr's Oflice Town Hall. Good guide, 20 pp. free. *Get this book, it is in four languages. If abonnement is used, to LOUVAIN with its "Gothic jewel," the Town Hall. Hotel de la Gare (opposite station); room, 3 Fr. Hotel de Suede. 20 Rue Marengo; room, 3 Fr. LIEGE : A charming city. The finest Brussels lace at ver>' low prices at Maison Fernard Huge, Rue Pont D'Avroy, 33 (central). A lady's three-quarter length lace coat sells for 30 Fr.; lace dress, 75 Fr.; very handsome and worth many times their cost. See S. Jacques (central), one of the most perfect late Gothic churches. Hotel du Noveau Monde, 24 Place St. Lambert (central); room, 2 Fr. Hotel du Chemin de Fer (opposite Guillemin's station); room, 2y<2, Fr. Hotel de Dinant, Rue St. Etienne, St. Gaugulphe et Gerarderie; room, 2 Fr. Let your baggage remain at Liege if you would avoid cuscoms examination. Take a quick trip to famous SPA: Hotel du Limbourg, Place Royal (opposite Kur- saal), Hocel de Laeken, Rue Leopold (opposite Kursaal); and Hotel Continental, Rue Royale (opposite Kursaal); all rooms. 2i > Fr.; then on to **AACHEN (Aix-la-Chapelle), Charlemagne's capital; a fine medieval city. While here buy an invaluable book for 80 Pf. (or I Fr.), **"Storm's Kursbuch fiirs Reich gans Deutschland." Contains time tables, fares, railroads, boats, maps, etc., for all countries. Low priced, fine hotels all over Europe; pink pages at end of book. L^se this always; only Germans know this book. It is well arranged, easily under- stood and worth its weight in gold. Hotel zur Neuen Post, Kleinmarschierstr 55; room and EUROPEAN GUIDE 43 breakfast, i3^ Mk. Hotel Diiren (at station); room, iH Mk. Hotel Berliner Hof, 6 Bahnhofstr (at station); room and breakfast, 2 ' 2 ^ik. Hotel Kloubert, Templerbend (4 minutes from station); room and breakfast, 23-2 Mk. Hotel de Brux- elles, 30 Bahnhofstr; room and breakfast, 2^:^ Mk. Hotel du Nord (opposite station); room, 2 ISIk. Return to Liege, to NAMUR: Hotel du Nord, 11 Rue Mathieu (near station); room, 2 Fr. Hotel des Quatre Fils Aymond, 2 Place d'Armes, room and breakfast, 2 Fr. up.; and through the Ardennes to Luxembourg, picturesque and famous, and on to TREVES: Hotel Wiener Hof (at station); room, ij^ Uk. Hotel Reichshof (at station); room and breakfast, 3 Mk. Dom Hotel Hauptmarkt (central); room and breakfast, 2H Mk. Hotel zur Post (central; opposite Post Office); room, 2 Mk. Hotel Venedig, Am Platz (central) ; room and breakfast, 2.50 to 2.80 Mk.; good. Munich Hackerbrau beer sold here; very fine. Victoria Hotel; room, 2^4 Mk. Munich Hofbrau beer; very fine, sold here. This city was Rome's rival, and is rich in Roman remains. See the great amphi- theatre and the Porta Nigra. Return to Luxembourg (beautifully located), to Namur and Brussels, where end fifth day, and return abonnement. If a 5-day ticket is used, you should sleep as follows: First night, Bruges; second, Ghent; third, Aachen; fourth. Treves; fifth, Brussels. Bel- gium is well w^orth a 15-day abonnement, allowing leisurely and profitable travel. BRUSSELS : Hotel du Sabot d'Or, 38 Rue de Pelican (i minute to r. of station); room and breakfast, 23^ Fr. Hotel de Bergere, 36 Rue des Croisades (i minute to r. of station); room, 2^ Fr. (many hotels near here). _ Di- rectly in front of station is Rue Neuve, a fine, lively, business street, full of cafes, large stores, etc. Hotel de Vienne or Wienerhof, 49 Rue de Pont Neuf (to 1. from about 40 Rue Neuve and 5 minutes from station; opposite Tietz's great store); room, 2 Fr. Good, central. Hotel Restaurant Berger, 6 Rue Plattesteen (central, near Bourse); room, 2 Fr. Good. Boulanger-Platissiere, 122 Rue Neuve (i minute from station); room., 2 Fr. New. Brussels is the cheapest and best city for ladies' fancy goods, as much Parisian finery is manufactured here. *At "Au Bonheur des Dames," 19 Rue Neuve, very low prices for fine shirtwaists, laces, underwear, etc. Goods exchanged; money returned; English spoken. "Au Printemps," 78 Rue Neuve, is also very low priced and gives good value. At Brasserie. "St. Anne," 79 Rue Neuve, Faro (12 centimes) and Lambic (20 centimes), two fine 44 EUROPEAN GUIDE champagne-beer drinks are very popular; they are strange and tonic. Automatique Quisisana, 143 Rue Neuve (i minuto from Gare du Nord) gives a good dinner 11 a. m. to 2 p. m. for 1.25 Fr. Soup, entree, roast with vegetables and dessert. Automats are convenient for strangers. For 10 centimes you may try any food or any drink without -talk or trouble. *Many native specialties may only, be known in this way. They all serve hot meals after ir. a'/nl. at' verj.' -reasonable prices; they are often beautifully and* elaboVately furnished, and always have free retiring rooms for ladies and gentle • men. They are usually located near (often opposite) sta- tions, and are in great numbers in Belgium, Holland, Ger- many (especially), Switzerland, and at Vienna, Austria, and Milan only in Italy. They often have large hotel's attachedl with rooms from iH to 2 Fr. _ . Do not miss the Mannakin fountain (near *Hotel de Villc: in the *Grand Square, the noblest square in Europe save only Venice and Florence), the *Wiertz Gallery and the *Cathedraf. St. Gudule with its majestic facade and fine stained glass, windows. The collections in the art museums are rich and interesting, many of the primitives are shown and Rubens and Van Dyck appear freely. In the Modern Gallery notice 276 C. Oom's "La lecture prohibie" (the forbidden, reading); it is a gem. *Free Information Bureau (Bureau Officiel de Renseignements), 14 Rue de Berlaimont (just at; St. Gudule Cathedral). Many guide books, hotel lists, etc., free. On to MECHLIN (Malines) with its fine lace and cathe • dral. Hotel de la Couranne (to r. of station); room, 2 Fr. Cafe Leopold (at station); room, 2 Fr. ANTWERP is very interesting; has many fine edifices and a profusion of art treasures. It is the city of Rubens and contains numerous works by him. The great cathedral has a seven aisled nave and its lace like lofty tower is one of the most remarkable in Europe. Wallon Hotel, corner Statie Plein and Rue de la Station (i minute to r. of the magnificent *Gare Centrale); room, 114 Fr. Large, fine. Hotel Transvaal, 44 Rue de la Station; room, 1.25 Fr. Hotel Maison Max, Nos. 40 and 42; room, 1 14 Fr. Large. Hotel Baltimore, No. 30; room, \]4 Fr. Hotel Sittard, No. 34; room, i}4 Fr. Hotel-Cafe Neederland, No. 32; room, 2 Fr. Good. *Hotel-Restaurant Stanley, 13 Rue Carnot (2 minutes to r. of station); room, 2 Fr.; pens.; 5 Fr. Walk down the Rue de Pelican (to 1. of Gare Centrale), between 12 and 2 p. m., and see thousands EUROPEAN GUIDE 45 of diamond dealers crowding the cafes and pavements each mth a Uttle heap of glittering stones before him, buying or seUing. Automatique de la Gare (opposite station), good. **The Palatinate, 22 Rue Carnot (3 minutes from station); a magnificent hall with two orchestras, singers, moving pic- tures, etc., should be seen at night. A glass of Hofbrau (Munich) beer, citronade, or a cbffee costs 40 centimes, the only charge made. Sundays and *Thursdays (especially) are free days in Antwerp; all paintings are unveiled in the *grand cathedral on Thursdays. **Do not pay to enter churches; **they are always free in the mornings in all Catholic countries. See the Steen Museum (go 9 a. m.; free day); the *Plantin Mu- seum (go 10 a. m.; free day), and the rich **Picture Gallery; free Sundays and Thursdays. Just in front of Cathedral is Passage Quentin Matsys; in the little novelty store buy *Noveau Plan D'Anvers for 10 centimes, it contains map and all attractions (free days, etc.) in English. This store sells man\' curious toys. See *St. Charles Church; the chapel at the right is very rich, approaching the glorious chapels of Ital}'. Rubens' Virgin and Child to right is fine and the grand altar has a magnificent "Adoration of the Virgin.'' The Hotel St. Antoine gives away a fine Guide to Antwerp. Go to oiSce of Red Star Line, 22 Rue des Peignes (2 minutes from cathedral) and take free book **"The Rhine, Its' Valleys and Watering Places." 60 pages, fine map, etc.; it is the best of all for the Rhine valley; be sure to get this book. Belgian Information Office, 58 Place de Meir (main avenue, central). Guide books, hotel books, etc.; all free. HOLLAND From now on always buy one official railway time table in each country you visit. It is absolutely necessary to know when and how to go. In Holland buy Van Santen's Officieele Reisgids vor Nederland for 25 cents (M gulden or florin). Traveling in Holland is rather costly to strangers. DORDRECHT is very old and pretty with its beautiful flowers, large trees, shaded walks, canals, and great cleanli- ness. Hotel-Cafe Heybeek (opposite station to r.); room and breakfast, 1.25 Gl. Hotel du Lion d'Or, facing 6 Prinsenstraat; room, i Gl. Pennock's Hotel, i Wijnstraat; room and breakfast, 1.75 Gl. Good. *Ary Schaefer's paint- ings are shown at 24 Museumstr. (2 minutes from centre of city); admission, 10 cents (yV Gl.). This artist's works were 46 EUROPEAN GUIDE dearly loved by Queen Victoria. The Boer War Museum is next door at No. 22. Free Enquiry Bureau at Vest 99. Il- lustrated books in all languages free; especially helpful in large cities. These associations are called Verkehr's Verein and Fremden Verkehrs. Always use them freely. ROTTERDAM: Hotel and Lunch Room "De Drei Ste- den," s2 Hoofsteeg (central; i minute from Post Office); room, I Gl. Room and breakfast, i>2 Gl. Good. Hotel de Gouden Kat, 20 Geldershekade (i minute from Post Office); room, i}i Gl. Good, corner house. Pomona Hotel, 5 b Nieuwe Haven Steeg (i minute from Post Office) ; room, 1.40 Gl. Hotel Van Poppel, 9 b Spaansche Kade (2 minutes from Post Office); room, iM Gl. Hotel Weimar, 12 Ditto; room, i^^ and 2 Gl. Fine. Hotel-Restaurant Van Dam, 375 Hoogstraat (5 min- utes from Post Office); room and breakfast, 1.25 Gl. Go to Enquiry Office, 3 Spaanschekade (central) for large free English guide to Rotterdam. Also large free guide with all cities in it called *"Travel in Holland" here. All attrac- tions, free days, etc. ''Maastricht" gives the best value in tobaccos and liquors (English stout, etc.) all through Holland. Stop at Korte Hoogstraat 14, or Hoogstraat 285, and give 3 cents for an ''EI Tropo" or "Silva" cigar in an envelope which gives address of all shops in Holland. *In all cities look for the printed price on anything you buy, do not let any one impose on you. The proper price to pay is about one-half of the amount you think it worth before asking. DELFT is very antique and pretty with its shaded canals; it is typically Dutch. Plotel Central, 6 Wijnhaven; room, ii^ Gl. Good, central. Hotel de Bolk, 3 Buiten Watersloot (2 minutes from station); room, i Gl. Free Enquirj' Bureau, Oude Delft 60. See the Huis Lambert van Meerten, a fine Museum of Art. THE HAGUE (Den Haag): Hotel Centrum, Spui 118 (centre of city, cars pass door); room, i and 1.25 Gl. New. Hotel de Kroon, 191 a Spui; room and breakfast, 1.50 Gl. Good, central. Hotel Hannover, 235 a Spui; room and break- fast, 1.25 Gl. Hotel de Zon, 239 Spui; room and breakfast, 1.25 Gl. Good. Hotel Sept Eglises de home, 271 Spui; room and breakfast, 1.60 Gl. Fine. Orange Hotel, Hoefkade, 9 (i minute from Dutch railway station); room and break- fast, I li Gl. Good. See *"Huis in Busch" (palace of Queen) surely; admission, }4 Gl. (ask for the English guide). Free Enquiry Office, Plaats i a. Fine free "Guide of the Hague," also free "Guide to Schevingen." Go see "Grand Bazaar de la Paix," 27 Spuistraat (a great promenade crowded day and EUROPEAN GUIDE 47 night) and get **"A Week in the Hague"; free, on all coun- ters. All attractions, theatres, free entrances, etc. Electric car No. 8 takes you from Plein (centre of city), through the old village of Schevingen (Hotel-Restaurant Hollandic, Maaswijkstr loto i6; room and breakfast, i>2 Gl.; many Dutch costumes, especially on Sunday mornings, and all wooden shoes), to the fashionable seashore. Return by No. 9 car. In the great Mauritshius Picture Gallery notice A. Moro's startingly Ufe-like portrait No. 117. Com- pare with Rubens' portrait of his wife. No. 250, hangmg by its side, also with Rubens' No. 251 (another wife portrait), and Van Dyck's fine No. 242. An unique opportunity for comparing the works of these three great artists. **The Mesdag Museum is the finest modern picture gallery in Holland; see it surely. It is near the Plein, at Laan van Meerdervoort 7. Entrance, M Gl. *The Communal Mu- seum, Korte Vijverberg 7, contains many pictures. Free. ♦Historical Gallery, Villa Frederika; Oude Scheviningsche Weg 98 contains 100 pictures. Introduction by Inquiry Office, Plaats i. LEYDEN (see Lindley's Tourist Guide), interesting and antique, with many museums. The Lakenhal (Municipal Museum) is worth seeing (10 cents). Hotel Lion d'Or, Breestr. 24; room and breakfast, 2J^ Gl. Verkehrsverein, Haarlemstr. 114. HAARLEM: Hotel Lion d'Or, Kriusweg 36 (near station); room and breakfast, iH Gl. See Franz Hal's marvellous pictures in the Town Hall. He was one of the greatest masters of portraiture that ever lived. Verkehrsv. Badhuisatr. 4. AMSTERDAM: Hotel Deutscher Hof, Warmoesstraat 66, auch Eingang Beurostraat i (10 minutes from station); room, 60 c; room and breakfast, i to 1.25 Gl. Hotel Oldewelt, Nieuwendijk 100 (5 minutes from station); room and breakfast, 23^ Gl. Hotel Weisses Haus, Warmoesstraat 21 (2 minutes from station); room, 60 c. to i Gl. Hotel Central, Damrak 18 (2 minutes from station); room, i Gl. Large, good. *Dam Hotel, Damrak 31; room, 1.25 GL; room and breakfast, 1.75 Gl. New, good. Hotel Van Gelder, 34 Damrak; room, 1.25 to 1.50 Gl. Fine, new. Hotel- Restaurant at Martelaarsgracht i (i minute from station), or 28 Prinz Hendrik Kade, room, 80 cents to i Gl. Quiet, plain. Automat at Kalverstrasse 12 (i minute from main Post Office); good restaurant, low prices; hotel Novum in upper stories; room, i>'2 Gl. Good. *The American Lunch 48 EUROPEAN GUIDE Room, 1 6 Kalverstr. Popular; low priced, finely appointed; try it. Kalverstrasse is the main street and is very gay. Free Enquiry Bureau ("t'Koggeschip"), Damrak 95 (2 min- utes from Post Ollice); all books free; also the International Verkehrsbureau, lO lleerengracht (i minute from Post Office). Fine guides to all Europe. Always go to the Verkehrsverein in every city from now on. Maintained by the various Governments, they exist for you only, and help you in every way. Get Dusseldorf and Cologne guide books free; guides to the ne.xt city you visit are always free, but arc sometimes 10 or 15 Pf. in the city itself; tliis is to induce you to visit the next town. *"Travel in Holland," an up-to-date Enghsh guide-book, is free and is complete. *Go to Municipal Museum (called Stedelyk Museum), Paul Potter Straat 13. Many fine art works. A trip to Broek, Monnikendam, *Marken (an island in the Zuyder Zee; see the costumes in style of 400 years ago, and the wonderful interiors of the houses), Volendam (see the artists rendezvous "The Spaander," an old hotel crowded with pictures), Edam (do not enter the cheese factories here, nothing to see and you pay to get out, another catchpenny schenie), and return to Amsterdam costs, first class, 2.25 Gl. or second class, 1.75 GI. by North-Holland Tramway Co. Take ferry from quay in front Central station and opposite St. Nicholas church. **Take your lunch with you. During July, August, and September only two forms of cheap rail- way tickets may be used. Illustrated circulars are issued at all Holland stations with these tickets shown; (also at Dus- seldorf in Germany, at Reisebureau Emil Meyer, 10 Wilhelm- splatz (opposite railway station), at Cologne at Bureau J. Hartmann, 10 Dornhof and at Verkehrsbureau (am Elisenbrunnen) at Aachen). All these sell the "Allgemeine Ferienkarten" (or "Allgemeene Vacantiekaarten") good for a 1-day trip between practically any two cities in Holland. Second class, 3 Gl.; *third class, 2 GI It will take you from Amsterdam to Roermond or Vlodrop, the nearest points to Dusseldorf. or to (a very desirable centre) *]Vraastricht (Hotel Swelssen, Stationstraat, 5 minutes from station; room and breakfast, t}4 Gl), or Bocholtz (the nearest points to Cologne). If **Liege, Spa, and **Aix-la-Chapelle (Aachen) have been omitted they may be seen at slight cost from Maastricht. (These cities are far more important than Arnhem and Utrecht.) Allgemeene Vacantiekaarten means all stations. "Bijondere Vacantiekaarten," meaning some stations, are still cheaper i-day tickets sold only in Holland; EUROPEAN GUIDE 49 they are good between a few near cities and are of slight use to the traveler; see the circular. From Aachen, Diisseldorf (Barmen, Elberfeld), and surroundings may be visited and rail taken to Cologne. Utrecht and Arnheim are not of great importance, but they may be quickly visited. UTRECHT has many attractions. Hotel Station, Stationsplein 3 (opposite station); room and breakfast, i.y2 Gl. Hotel Centraal, Stationsplein 13; room and break- fast, 2 Gl, Hotel Rustoord Mariaplaats (near station) ; room and breakfast, i3'2 Gl. Enquiry office, 15 Neude (near station), also at Van Wijckskade 11. ARNHEM has the most beautiful surroundings in Hol- land (Velp, De Steeg, Osterbeek, etc.). Christian Hotel, Oude Stationstraat 14 (i minute to 1. opposite station); room, .80 and i Gl. Hotel Sluis, Oude Stationstr 11; room, iy2 Gl. Large, fine. Vegetarian Hotel Pomona, Oude Stationstr I (corner Willemsplein) ; room, i Gl. New, good. Verkehr's Bureau, 15 Stationsplein (opposite station); ali books free; also at Willemsplein 5. GERMANY As the association of states called Germany occupies the centre of Europe and contain great artistic treasures, they are largely visited, and, owing to their intelligent, systematic efiforts, the traveler receives every benefit for little outlay. Perfect safety, honesty, courtesy, low railway fares, and good hotel accom.m.odations may be enjoyed everywhere. A society of associated hotel keepers, called "Verband Christ- licher Hospize," aim to give friendly welcome and the best returns for the ver\' moderate prices charged. They are open to all and are largely patronized by wise tourists and ladies traveling alone. Room and breakfast or entire pension may be taken. As many persons will use these Hospiz exclusively after they have tried the first one, a complete unbroken list of their locations both in Germany and in other countries with their prices is given. Refer to this always. Verband Christlicher Hospize Berlin: Christliches Hospiz, S. W. 68. No. 106 Oranien- strasse (central, near Donhoffsplatz and Tietz's great store); room, 1.50 Mk. up. Christliches Hospiz, W. 64, No. 29 Behrenstr. (central, near Bahnhof Frederichstr.) ; room, 1.75 Mk. up. Hospiz am Brandenburger Tor, W. 9, No. 5 Koniggrat- zerstr. (central, near Potsdamer Bahnhof); room, 3 Mk. 50 EUROPEAN GUIDE Hospiz des Nordens, N. 4, No. 5 Borsigstr.; room, 1.20 Mk. up. Hospiz des Westens, W. 50, No. 4 Marburgerstr. (near Charlottenburg); room, 2 Mk. up. Christliches Hospiz, N. 24, No. 82 Auguststr. (central, near Stettiner Bahnhof and Bhf. Frederichstr.); room, 1.25 Mk. up. Hospiz d. Vatcrl. Bauvereins, N. 31, No. 43 Strelitzerstr. (near Setttiner Bahnhof); room, i Mk. up. , Hospiz im Zentrum, C. 19, No. 9 Holzengartenstr. an der Kurstrasse (central, near Konigl. Schloss or King's Palace); room, 2.25 Mk. up. Hospiz der Berliner Stadtmission, W. 8, No. 27 Mohrenstr. (central, near all attractions); room, 2.50 Mk. up. Berne: (Switzerland) Gasthof zum Eidgen Kreuz. 39 Zeughausgasse (5 minutes from station); room, 1.75 Mk. Pension, 5.25 Mk. Bochum: 59 Humboldtstr., Chr. Hos. (at station); room, 1 Mk. up. Bonn: 27 Poppelsdorfer AUee, Evang. Hos. (3 minutes from station); room, 2 Mk. up. Braunschweig: 5 Lessingplatz, Evang. Vereinsh. (near station); room, 1.25 yik. up. Bremen: 19 Loningstr., Bremen Hosp. (near station); room, 2 Mk. up. Breslau: 90 Gartenstr. (3 minutes from station); room, 1.25 Mk. Carlsruhe: 23 Adelrstr., C. H. Herzog Berthold (5 minutes from station); room, i to 2 Mk. Cassel: 17 Colnischestr., Hos. Evang. Vereinhauses (2 minutes from station); room, 1.50 Mk. up. Christiana (Norway): 26 Raadhusgd., Mission Hotel; room, 1.25 to 4 Kronen. Coblenz: 12 Markenbildshenweg, Maria Louise Hos. (3 minutes from station); room, 1.25 Mk. up. 21 Altlohrtor, Augustahaus fiir Damen (ladies only) (near station); room, 1.25 Mk. Cologne: 77 Johannisstr., Hot. Femes (5 minutes from station); room, 1.25 Mk. up. 39 Johannisstr., Chr. Hosp. (2 minutes from station); room, i to 3 Mk. Dessau: 17 Leopoldstr., Evang. Vereinh.; room, 1.50 to 2 Mk. Dortmund: 39 Konigshof, Hospiz (i minute from station); room, I Mk. up. 49 Wilhelmstr., Hos. Vereins junger Manner (10 minutes from station); room, i Mk. up. EUROPEAN GUIDE 51 Dresden: 17 Zinzendorfstr., Hosp. (near station); room, 2.50 Mk. up. 7 Feldgasse, Hosp. fiir Damen (ladies only) (near station); room, 1.25 Mk. up. Diisseldorf: 10 Scheurenstr., Chr. Hos. Neanderhaus (4 minutes from station) ; room, 1.50 Mk. up. 10 Kronenstr., Evang. Hosp. Kronenhaus; room, 1.50 Mk. up. Duisburg: 7 Gutenbergstr., Hos. zum blauen Kreuz; room, I Mk. up. Eberswalde (near Berlin): i Karlstr., Chr. Hos.; room, I to 2.50 ]\Ik. Eisenach: 10 Karlsplatz (5 minutes from station on car line) (central); room, 1.25 to 1.50 Mk. New. Essen-Ruhr: 21 Bachstr. Hot. Vereinhaus (near sta- tion); 2.50 Mk. up. Flensburg: 70 Nordengraben. Chr. Hos.; room, 1.50 to 2.20 Mk. Florence (Italy): 130 a Via de Serragli. Deutsches Evang. Hos. (near Pitti Palace; central); room, 2.50 to 3.50 Lire. Pension 6 to 8 Lire. Frankfurt-on-Main: 25 Wiesenhuttenplatz. C. H. Baseler Hof. ( I minute from station); room 2 Mk. up. i Buchgasse C. H. Rheinischer Hof. (5 minutes from station); room, i to 2.50 Mk. Freiburg (near Strassburg): 8 Hermannstr. C. H. Evang. Stifts. (10 minutes from station); room, 1.50 Mk. up. Geneva (Switzerland): 14 Rue de Lausanne. Hot. Pens. Families (opposite station); room, 2.25 to 4 Fr. Pension 5.50 to 7.50 Fr. Halle (near Leipzig): 16 Kleine Klausstr. Ver. Hotel Kronprinz (central); room, 1.50 Mk. up. Hannover: 12 Prinzenstr. Hos. Evang. Verein. (10 minutes from station); room, 1.25 to 4 Mk. 3 Limburgstr. C. H. am Staintor (4 minutes from station); room, 1.25 to 4 Mk. Heidelberg: 22 Neckarstaden. C. H. Hollander Hof. (central; at Bridge); room, 1.25 to 2 Mk. Karlsruhe (Baden): 23 Adlerstr. C. H. Herzog Berthold (5 minutes from station) ; room, i to 2 Mk. Kiel: 55 Fleethorn, C. H. Missions Hot. (central); room, 2 Mk. up. Leipzig: 14 Rosstr. Hos. Innere Mission; room 1.50 to 4 Mk. 10 Czermaksgarten. C. H. Wittenberger Hof.; room, 2 Mk. up. Lindau: (In Bavaria on Lake Constance.) Hos. Evang. Herbergsvereins (4 minutes from station); room, 1.50 to 2.50 Mk. 52 EUROPEAN GUIDE London: i68 City Road, City House Hotel (near Liverpool Street station); room 3 Sh. up. 28 Finsbury Square, "Der Verwalter" (near Liverpool Street station); room, 2 Sh. up. Mannheim: 11 a Seckenheimerstr. C. H. Gemeindehauses (near station); room, 1.50 to 3.50 Mk. No. 23, U 3 Str., C. H. Hot. Prinz. Berthold (15 minutes from station); room, i to 2.50 Mk. Metz: 4 Nanzigerstr. C. H. Evang. Vereinh., room, 1.50 to 3-'5o Mk. 4 Mozartstr. C. H. Kaiser Wilhelm Haus (5 minutes from station); room, 1.25 to 2.50 Mk. Mulheim-Ruhr (near Diisseldorf) : 15 Frcderichstr. Hos. Evang. Verein. (5 minutes from station); room, 1.50 Mk. up. Munich (Munchen): 4 Mathildenstr., Chr. Hosp. (near station); room 1.30 to 3 Mk. 11 Prannerstr., Hot. Baseler Hof. (10 minutes from station; central); room, 1.50 Mk. up. IMiinster (Westphalia): 8 Sternstr., C. H. (8 minutes from station); room, i to 2 Mk. Nauheim (Bad) (near Frankfurt) : 6 Benekesti-., Eleonoren Hosp. at Park; room, 2 Mk. up. Nuremberg (Niirnbcrg): 4 Wolfsgasse, Hos. fUr Damen (ladies only) (near Rathaus); room, 1.50 Mk. up. 8 Tafel- hofstr.. Hot. Am. Sterntor (3 minutes from station); room, 1.50 to 4 Mk. Posen: 18 Vor dem Berliner Tor., Hos. Evang. Ver., central; room, 1.50 to 3 Mk. Stettin: 6 Griine Schanze, Aug. Viktoria-Haus. (4 minutes from station); room, i to 2.50 Mk. 53 Elizabethstr., Hos. Evang. Ver. (near station); room, 1.50 Mk. up. Stockholm (Sweden): 35 Birgerjarlsgatan, Hot. Excelsior; room, 2 Kronen up. Strassburg (Alsace): 7 Finkmattstr., Evang. Ver.; room, 1.50 INIk. up. Pension, 3.50 to 4.50 Mk. 24 Weissturmstr., Haus vom Blaucn Kreuz. (near station); room, i to 3 Mk. Stuttgart: 11 Christophstr., Hos. Herzog Christoph.; room, 1.50 to 2.50 Mk. Trieste (Austria) : i Piazza della Chiesa Evangelica (5 min- utes from Southern railway station) ; room, i to 2 Kr. Tubingen: 2 Neckarhalde, Hos. Evang. Ver. (10 minutes from station); room, i to 1.50 Mk. Venice (Italy): 3581 Campo S. Angelo, Chr. Hosp.<5 min- utes from St. Mark's); room, 1.50 to 3 Lire; Pension, 5 to 6 Lire. Vevey (Switzerland): Hot. Pens, de Famille, Chr. Hosp., room, 1.50 to 2 Fr., Pens., 4 to 5 Fr. EUROPE.IN GUIDE 53 Wiesbaden: 5 Emserstr., Evang. Hospiz; room, i to 3 ]\Ik. 4 Rosenstr., Chr. Hosp. (central, near Kurhaus); roorn, 2 Mk. up. Pens., 4 Mk. 53 Oranienstr., Chr. Hosp. (5 minutes from station); room, 1.25 to 3 Mk. Zurich (Switzerland) : 8 St. Peterstr., Hot. Augustinqr Hof. (near station); room. 2 Fr. up. A similar society with the following additional hotels, charging the same prices, is called Evangelischen Hospize Amsterdam: de Hoop de Ruyterkade 15. Barmen: Hot. evangel. Vereinhaus., Bahnhofstrasse 16. Basle: zum Engelhof, Stiftsgasse i. Blaukreuzhaus, Petcrsgraben 23. Berlin: S. W. Johanniterstr. 6. S. W. Wilhelmstr. 34. Bielefeld: Alstadtkirchplatz. Bethel. Bochum: Miihlenstrasse. Bonn: Tempelstr. 16. Bergen (Norway): Strandgaden 124. Bordighera (Southern Italy) : Riviera Pension Constant. Breslau: Holteistr. 6. Carlsbad (Austria): Hospiz Westend. Cassel: Kolnischerstr. 17. Christiana (Norway:) Rosenkrantzgade i. Copenhagen (Denmark) : Mission Hotel. Dantsic: Totengasse. Duisburg: Pootgasse 5. Frankfort (on Main) : Baseler Hof. Taunusstr. 35. Freudenstadt (Wurt.): Plot. Pens. Palmenwald. Gelsenkirchen (near Essen): Vereinsstr. 28. Geneva: Hot. Union, Rue Bautte 11. Genoa: Ospizio christiano, via Caff era. Greiz (near Zwickau) : Reichenbachstr. 3 . Hamburg: Zimmerstr. 4. St. Pauli, Thalstr. 11. Herborn: Bahnhofstr. Herford: Radewigerstr. 22. Kiel: Dahlmannstr. Konigsberg (near Dantsic): Hinteranger i. Magdeburg: Bahnhofstr. 29. Oeynhausen (near Hanover) : Villa Auguste, Weststr. Potsdam: Breitestr. 34. Zimmerplatz 9. St. Gall (Switz.): Gallusstr. 38. Ulm: Zeitblomstr. 7. Venice: Deutsches Heim, Markusplatz 114 (at St. Mark's). 54 EUROPE.^N GUIDE Vevey: Rue des Communaux 20. Winterthur: Streulistr. i. Other Hospize, Temperance Hotels, etc., follow: Germany. Berlin: N. Hospiz am Wedding Dalldorferstr. 24. Bochum: Chr. Hospiz, Bismarckstr. 5; room and break- fast, I ^Ik. up. Bremen: Bremer Hospiz, Loningstr. 19 (near station). Cassel: Chr. Hosp., Kleine Rosenstr. 4 (4 minutes from station); room, 1.25 Mk. up. Cologne: Chr. Hosp., Viktoriastr. 11 (near station). Detwold: Hot. Evang., Vereinhaus, Wiesenstr. (5 min- utes from station). Dusseldorf: Chr. Hosp., Steinstr. 100 (3 minutes from station); room and breakfast, 2 Mk. Eisenach: Chr. Hosp., Barfiisserstr. 24 a (Temperance). Erfuth: Hospiz, AUerheiligenstr. 10. Flensburg: Chr. Hosp., Nordengraben 70 (8 minutes from Station) (Temperance). Frankfort (on ]Main) : Scharnhorststr. 20 (3 minutes from station); room, i to 3 Mk. Freiburg (in Bres.): Hosp. Evang. Stift., Herrenstr. 7; room, 1.20 to 2 Mk. Giessen: Ernst Ludwig Hosp., Wetzlarerweg 11. Godesberg (on Rhine): Hosp., Rhein allee 78. Gorlitz: Hosp. Evang. Vereinh., Kahle 20 (15 minutes from station); room, i to 2 Mk. Halle: Hot. Kronprinz., Kl. Klausstr. 16. Hamm (in Westph.): Hosp., Konigstr. 13. Heidelberg: Blaukreuz Hot., Schiffgasse 2 (10 minutes from station, by river). Jena: Logierhaus, Saalbahnhofstr. 8 (s minutes from station); room, i Mk. up. Leipzig: Chr. Hosp., Czermaksgarten 10 (near station). Lindau (on Bodensee): Hosp. am. Kleinen See, Paradiespl. 56 B. Miilhausen (near Basel): Temp. Hot. zum Volkswohl, Zeughausstr. 8. Neuwied (on Rhine): Pension, Hermannstr. 12. Plauen: Blaukreuz Hospiz, Annenstr. 22. Ulm: Chr. Hosp., Neuer Graben 23 (5 minutes from station) ; room, i to 3 Mk. EUROPEAN GUIDE 55 Wiesbaden: Hosp. Blausen Kreuz., Sedanstr. (on car line); room, 1.50 Mk. (Especially for ladies.) All Other Countries. Amsterdam: Evang. Hosp., Binnenkant 3. Hot. Blauwe Kruis, Warmoesstr. 158. Hot.-Rest., Prinsengracht 70. Antwerp: Vegetarian Pension, Rue Jacobs 47. Birkenhead (Eng.) : Temp. Hot., 3 Hamilton St. Birmingham: Temp. Hot., Moat Row; 19 Smithfield. Brussels: Hot.-Rest., 8 Rue de TEsplanade. Pension, 19 Rue de la Banque. Pension, 112 Rue les Broussart. Buchs (Switz.): Gasthau.s-Pension, L. Beusch. • Cambridge: Central Temp. Hotel, 33 Market Hill. Carlisle: Viaduct Hotel (3 minutes from station). Chur (Switz.): Rhatisch. Volkshaus, Oberthorbriicke 21. Como. (ItabO: Hot. St. Gotthard, Piazza Volta. Copenhagen (Denmark): Evang. Hosp., St. Peterstrade 19. Davos-Platz (Switz.): Pension-Rest., "Bethanien." Fluelen (Switz.): Gasthaus "Edelweiss," Axenstrasse. Gardone (on Lake Garda): Hotel Goldener Fisch. Geneva: Hotel "La Printaniere," Bellevue. Genoa: Deutsch. Chr. Hosp., Corso Ugo Bassi 24. Hague: Hot.-Rest., Nieuwstr. 24. Gasthaus, Nieuwe Molstraat 19. Haarlem: Hot.-Rest., Kinderhuiswest i. Interlaken. Hot. -Pens., Fortuna Blaues Kreuz (by the Rugenpark; 4 minutes from station); Pens., 4.50 Fr. up. Hot. "Temperenzhof," Neue Bahnhofstr. 312. Hot.-Pens., Blaues Kreuz., Bernastr. 30. Lausanne TSwitz.) : Hot. Au Maj'or Davel, Rue Louvre et ^ Grand St. Jean. Liverpool: Temp. Hotel, i Hanover St. Temp. Hotel, 39 Manchester St. Temp. Hotel, 75 Gt. George St. Temp. Hotel, 39 Gt. Charlotte St. London: Temp. Hotel, 254 Harrow Road, W. Temp. Hotel, 387 Euston Road, N. W. Temp. Hotel, 40 Wilton Road, S. W. Lucerne: Hosp. "Bethanienheim," Bundesplatz. Hotel Lindengarten, Taubenhausstr. Schillerhotel, Sempacherstr. 4. Hot.-Pens. Turka, Winkelriedstr. 7. Manchester: The Deansgate Hotel. Neuchatel (Switz.): Hot. de la Croix bleue. Nice (France): Hot. Terminus (opposite station). 56 EUROPE.\N GUIDE Obermais (near Meran, Tyrol): Hot. Hygeia (vegetable pens.) . Peterborough: Temp. Hotel, Queen St. Temp. Hotel, Fitzwilliam St. Portsmouth: The Speedwell Temp. Hotel. Reading: Jackman's Hotel, West St. Rorschach (Switz.): Blaukreuzheim, Signalstr. i6. Rotterdam: Hot.-Rest., Coolsingel 41. Saanen (Switz.): Hot. Blaues Kreuz. Sarnen (Switz.): Gasthaus zum Hirschen, Brinigstr. Toulon (France): Blaukreuz Hotel. Unterseen (Interlaken) : Temperenzhof Gaensler-Wildi. Utrecht: Evang. Vereinhaus, Lijnmarkt 47. Veg. Hot.- Rest., Kartharijnesingel. Windsor: Temp. Hot., 26 Peacock St. Worcester: Temp. Hot., 57 Foregate St. Temp. Hot., Broad St. Cornmarkct. DUSSELDORF: First thing buy (if not purchased before) "Storm's Kursbuch fiirs Reich gans Deutschland" for 80 Pf. This book is invaluable. All railways, time tables, prices of all fares, second, third, and fourth claso. It is particularly desirable for its list of hotels at all rates; they are reliable, as this is an official publication. See pink pages, end of book. Good, low-priced accommodation may be easily' secured throughout Germany, Switzerland and Italy, as traveling is very prevalent, these governments encourag- ing it in every manner possible. A word regarding "Storm'?. Kursbuch": On first page, fares from Aachen to Barmen are second class, 5 Mk. 80 Pf.; third class, 3.70 Mk.; fourth class (or personenzug), 2.40 Mk. (Fourth-class travel is like our electric street cars; seats generally run lengthwise; fare.s very low. About 40% of all Germans travel in this class. If you have little money, try fourth class; old travelers use it on many occasions.) In "Storm's Kursbuch" fourth- class trains are the slow trains, with a broken, dotted line to the left of the figures. They stop everywhere and are very handy. The map gives the number of page to refer to for time of trains between cities. Hotel Minerva, Kurfiir- stenstr. 62 (opposite station); room and breakfast, 1.75 Mk. Hotel-Restaurant Zum Kurfiirsten, Kurfiirstenstr. 57 (opposite station); room and breakfast, 1.75 Mk. Hotel Jager, Carlstr. 8 (2 minutes from station); room and break- fast, 2 Mk. Hotel Zum Lowen, Schadowstr. 81 (central); room and breakfast, 2j^ Mk. Hotel Kaiserhof, Kaiser Wilhelmstr. 23 (2 minutes from station); room and breakfast. EUROPEAN GUIDE 57 3 Mk. Hotel Quisisana, 44 a Ditto; room and breakfast, 23^ Mk. It is always best to ask for room and breakfast (zimmer mit Friihstiick). It is given at a much lower price, and is generally expected to be taken with the room. Have your "Storm's Kursbuch" handy, as a reference to it holds the hotelkeeper to his advertised price. Pharus' Plans (20 to 50 Pf.) are issued for all large cities. Fine map and all streets and attractions given. '"Automat" lunch houses (where you help yourself) are good in both Germany and Switzerland; they are in almost every city. They are only at Milan in Italy. All kinds of foods and drinks (beers, wines, coffee, etc.). Many serve special lunches at tables from 11 to 2 o'clock (soup, meat, three vegetables, coffee, dessert). Try it at Cologne. The price is generally from 70 Pf . to i Mk. All automats have retiring rooms for ladies and gentlemen, usually very nicely appointed. Vienna, Austria, has many large automats. Throughout Germany Alcoholfrei (temper- ance) hotels and restaurants, which furnish good meals and nice, clean rooms at low prices are very numerous. They are supported by religious bodies opposed to drink, and are made especially attractive to overcome this habit. Plain Automat at Graf Adolf Str., corner Harkort Str. (2 minutes to 1. of station), meals all day. Central Hotel occupies floors above; room and breakfast, 2.50 Mk. Verkehr's Verein, 91 Graf- Adolf Str. Guide books to all cities free. Get Cologne guide, Rhine guide, etc. The Art Gallery in AUeestrasse is well worth seeing. Dusseldorf is famous for its care of trees and parks; it shows what beauty should be a part of every city. *Tri^ to stop in large cities on Sundays if possible; *all galleries, etc., free. Elberfeld is very near Dusseldorf, Going from there to Barmen you can ride on the unique electric cars supported from above and swinging over the river. Take a seat at the window and, as the car shoots at great speed round curves, you look into the water directly beneath. It gives you a new thrill and closely approaches an airship trip. The 5-mile run costs 10 Pf., third class. ELBERFELD: Hotel Zum Grafen Adolf, Kipdorf 70 (2 minutes from station); room, 1.75 to 2 Mk. Good, new. Hotel Romer, Kipdorf 77, room, iV^ Mk. Sondermann's Gasthaus, Miihlen Str. No. i (i minute from station); room and breakfast, ij^ Mk. Good, plain; fine breakfast. Zum Rathaus Automat (opposite Rathaus), meals 70 Pf. to i Mk. Good; also Hansa Automat (opposite Rathaus). BARMEN has an art gallery and is busy and attractive. 58 EUROPEAN GUIDE Hotel-Restaurant Reichsadler, 14 Bahnhofstr. (i minute from station); room, iH Mk. Gasthof Weidenhof., 28 Win- kler St. (i minute from station); room and breakfast, iH Mk. (lood. plain. Central Hotel (2 minutes from station); room and breakfast, 2U2 Mk. Central Automat, 8 Mittelstr. Germania Automat, Neuer VVeg 53 (corner Alter Markt.). Fine, meals, etc. COLOGNE: **The great Gothic cathedral is very im- pressive; it is the finest in Germany. Contrast the ancient stained glass in the North aisle with the modern Munich glass in the South aisle. *Christliches Hospiz, 39 Johannis- str. (I minute back of station); room and breakfast, 2 Mk. Good, all conveniences, nice meals, 70 rooms. Gasthof Esser, 35 Johannisstr.; room and breakfast, 2 Mk. Good. Gasthof A. Weber, 21 Ditto; room and breakfast, 2H ML Hotel Zum Bahnhof, 2 Bahnhofstr. (2 minutes from station); room, ija Mk. Hotel Zur Post, 5 ^Nlarzellen Str. (2 minutes from station); room and breakfast, 2 Mk. Dom Automat directly in front of cathedral; large. Fine automat, 154 Hohe Str. All foods and drinks, grill room, lounge room, retiring rooms, etc. Good meals served in Green room, 11 a. m. to 3 p. m., and 6 to ii[for less than a mark. Good automat at 45 Hohe Str. *Colosseum Automatisches Restaurant, Schilder- gasse 99 (Schildergasse runs to right from 63 Hohe Str.); finest meals, very low prices. Tietz's great department store at 45 Hohe Str. is wonderful for cheapness and variety; colored post cards 6 for 10 Pf. For fine pipes go to A. Krahn, Jr., IIS Schildergasse. Beautiful carved meerschaums with wooden stems, 3 Mk. The men's and women's heads are exquisite. Checking stations for hand-bags are at every steamer landing; they close at 9 P- m-- generally. Boat travel is very convenient and cheap in the Rhine valley. **Second-class (or "vorkajute") passengers on all Rhine steamers occupy the *front of the boat, with a fine view. (If there is a **third class, as occurs on the Danube boats, they are assigned this desirable post.) First class goes to the rear. This arrange- ment is observed all over Europe. A word to the wise should be sufficient. IMeals and refreshments are served on board, but old travelers always carry lunch when on boat trips. ^ The Verkehrs Verein, 11 Margarethenkloster (just m front of Cathedral), will give you "Kolner Woche" (The Cologne Week) in English, with all free entrances, etc. Get **"The Rhine, Its Valleys and Watering Placets." It may be free or cost you 20 Pf . All cities and attractions, maps EUROPEAN GUIDE 5Q of all the Rhine valleys. It tells you where you are on the Rhine by means of large numerals on the banks of river. *By all means get it if you did not do so in Antwerp. Your "Dover-Ostend Guide" also gives full account of each town in the Rliine journey. Go by rail or boat to BONN: *Berliner Hof., Mulheimer PI. (near station); room and breakfast, 1.75 Mk. Gasthaus zum Goldener Hirsch, Friedrichplatz and Sternstr. [5 minutes from station) ; room and breakfast, 2 :Mk. Gasthaus zum Deutsches Haus, 8 Friederichplatz; room and breakfast, iH Mk. The Minster is grand and is rich in detail. Take slowest Rhine boat, stopping wherever you fancy. Make a short stop at small towns during the day. *Ahvay3 stop over night at large cities if possible, and reach there by 7 P- m., as a "fest or unusual occasion may crowd the hotels and give you trouble in securing accommodations. KONIGSWINTER (for the *DrachenfeIs and Peters- burg, with far reaching views) : Hotel Kaiserhof, Bahnhofstr. 4; room and breakfast, 2 !-^ Mk. Hotel Lommerzheim, Haupt- str. 92; room and breakfast, 2?^ Mk. A Scharpenseel, 10 Drachenfels Str.; room and breakfast, 2 Mk. Plain, clean. "Hof von Holland," 114 Hauptstr.; room and breakfast, 2 Mk. Hotel Reinarz, 122 Hauptstr.; room and breakfast, 2.25 Mk. The Drachenfels may be climbed on foot (it is not difficult), or by railway for i Mk. The hotel is not the top; go up into ruined castle above for fine outlook. This is probably the best view point on the river. Verkehrsverein at Marktstr. 6. ROLANDSECK: Hotel Victoria (i minute from. 1. b. I.); room and breakfast, 2 '2 Mk. A walk along the river to the left shows manv pretty residences. REMAGEN : Gasthaus "Zur Wacht am Rhein" (i minute from 1. b. 1.); room and breakfast, 2^ Mk. ANDERNACH: Hotel "Zum Anker" (facing boat landing); room and breakfast, 2^ Mk. Gasthaus Zup Trauba (1. boat landing); room and breakfast, 2 Mk. GOBLENZ: Hotel Rebstock, 4 Rheinstr. (i minute from boat landing); room and breakfast, 2.25 Mk. Hotel-Restau- rant Shipka-Pass, 6 Rhein Str.; room, i^i IMk. Gasthof zum Romer, 5 Ditto; room and breakfast, 2 Mk. Hotel Rheineck, 8 Ditto; room, ij^ Mk. Hotel Rheinischer-Hof., 7 b, Ditto; room, i}4 Mk. Hansa Hotel, i Bahnhofstr, (opposite railway station); room and breakfast, 2.80 Mk. Bahnhof Hotel, 52 Ditto; room and breakfast, 2j^ Mk. Just back of the large *Kaiser Wilhelm monument (at 6o EUROPEAN GUIDE junction of Rhine and Moselle rivers) is the *Hotel Deutsches Haus, I ^Moselle Str.; room and breakfast, 2 12 Mk. Good, new. "The Rhine'' (the best condensed guide) costs 20 Pf. at the Rheinischer Verkehrsverein, 9 Rheinstr. (at corner). Many guide books free. Kaiser Automat, 41 Lohr Str. *Ehrenbreitstein is easily ascended and has a splendid view. Take rail to Capellen (5 miles) if you wish to see famous Stolzenfels castle (admission, 25 Pf.). BAD EMS, a beautiful small watering place, is a very short distance by rail. Hotel Premier Hof, 5 Bahnhofstr. (i minute from station); room, 2 Mk. Hotel Helvetia, 4 Braubacherstr.; room, 2 Mk. Hotel Albion, 8 Braubacher- 3tr.; room and breakfast, 23^ Mk. BOPPARD is picturesque. Hotel Nassauer Hof, Kronen Gasse; room and breakfast, 2}^ Mk. "Zu den Zwolf Apos- tolen," 63 Ober str. (central); room and breakfast, 2 Mk. Good strong Rhine wine at restaurant-bakery next corner above. 10 Pf. large glass. Many Germans here. Light lunch served. ST. GOAR (with the grand Rheinfels castle). Gasthaus zur Germania, 177 Am Rhein (a promenade on the river- front to left boat landing); room and breakfast, 2 Mk. Gasthaus Rheinlust, igo Am Rhein; room, and breakfast, 3 Mk. Fine. The Lorelei is on the opposite bank, a mile above. OBERWESEL is handsome and medieval. Hotel- Restaurant Diedert, 21 Liebfrauenstr. (2 minutes from left boat landing); room and breakfast, 2 Mk. Hotel Gertiura (at boat landing, just inside city walls); room and breakfast, 2'2 Mk. Pens.; .=; Mk. Zum Hausriicken, 41 Liebfrauenstr.; room and breakfast, 2 Mk. BACHARACH (in a lovely situation, with ruined walls, ancient houses and old cathedral) : Hotel Bliichertal (central, opposite Post Office), 38 Oberstr.; room and breakfast, 2}/^ Mk. Gasthaus Zum Alten Kursaal, 59 Oberstr.; room and breakfast, 2 Mk. Hotel Zum Gelben Hof, 26 Max Str. (near Post Ofifice); room and breakfast, 2 Mk. Look at "Zum Altes Haus," 61 Oberstr., built 1368 A. D. Excellent view from the ruined cathedral and the castle on the heights, a ten-minutes' climb. Opposite Assmannshausen is Rhein- stein castle. BINGEN : Hotel zum Vater Rhein, 22 Ober Vorstadt Str. (2 minutes to r. of boat landing); room and breakfast, 2 Mk. Hot. zur Traube, 18 Ditto; room and breakfast, 2 Mk. Good, new. Hotel Deutsches Hof (directly opposite); room and breakfast, 2j^ Mk. Gasthaus Fr. Winau, 20 Ober EUROPEAN GUIDE 61 ITorstadt Str.; room and breakfast, 2 Mk. Gasthaus Zum Rheinischer Hof, 14 Ditto; room and breakfast, 2 Mk. Hotel Weisscs Ross, 8 Ditto; room and breakfast, 2}4, Mk. Large, good. Hotel Deutsches Haus (near boat landing and railway station); room and breakfast, 2^ Mk. The beauty of the Rhine gorge practically ends at Bingen; the shores widen, and the rich wine districts appear. RUDES HEIM has splendid wines. A short climb leads to the *National Denkmal (Monument). Both from here and from Johannisberg, fine views. Hotel, 6 Rhein Str. (3 min- utes from boat landing, facing river) ; room, i \i IVIk. Hotel Weill, 15 Rhein Str.; room, 1 1-2 Mk. Gasthaus Zum Nieder- wald, 17 Rhein Str.; room and breakfast, 2 Mk. Hotel National, 3 Grabenstr.; room, 1.25 Mk. *WIESBADEN should be seen; it is a city loved by all who visit it. Wiesbaden, Heidelberg, and Baden-Baden are the most beautiful cities in the Rhine valley. *Christliches Hospiz, 4 Rosenstr., is delightfully located in large garden with flowers. It is 2 minutes from the Court Theatre and park. Room and breakfast, 2 INIk. Pension, 4 Mk. Hotel and Automat Zur Post, 17 Rheinstr. (5 minutes from station; straight out Nicholas str., near main Post Office); room and breakfast, 2 IMk. New, clean, large. Fine rooms, good meals. Hotel Vogel, 27 Rheinstr. (facing Plaza); room and breakfast. 2 ]Mk. MAINZ (Mayence): The typically Rheinish cathedral and that at Speyer (Spires) are of noble type and great size. They excel in grandeur all other Romanesque buildi gs in Germany. The large *Gutenberg Monument is very im- pressive; his statue was executed by Thorswalden. This city is very interesting and contains many beautiful buildings. Do not miss the picture gallery. Hotel Terminus, 8 Bahn- platz (at station); room and breakfast, 2 Mk. Nice, clean. Eisenbahn^ Hotel, 6 Bahnplatz; room and breakfast, 2 Mk. Hotel Stadt Bonn, 41 Rheinstr. (2 minutes to 1. of boat landing; facing river); room, i V^ Mk. Automat, 17 Schuster- str. Good, midday meals; low (near Cathedral). Verkehrs- verein, Bahnhofstr. 7. Free books. PRANKFORT-ON-MAIN: Hotel zur Post, i Ottostr. (i minute to 1. of station); room and breakfast, 2 Mk. Hotel Prussicher Hof, 3 Ottostr.; room, 2 Mk. Hotel Prinz Otto, 5 Ottostr.; room, 2 INIk. Hotel Stadt ^Miinchen, 7 Ottostr. (plain) ; room and breakfast, 2 Mk. Hotel Anton, 12 Niedenau (3 minutes from station); room, i '^4 Mk. Hotel Victoria, 59 Kaiserstr. (i minute from station); room and 62 EUROPE.\N GUIDE breakfast, 2^2, Mk. Kaiser Hotel Kyffhauser, 62 Kaiserstr.; room and breakfast, 2H Mk. Large, fine. Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten, 33 Scharnhorststr. (to right station); room and breakfast, 2>^ Mk. Hotel Niirnberg, 20 Moselstr. (near Kai- ser Automat, 63 Zeil central); room and breakfast, 2 JSIk. Kaiser Automat, 63 Zeil, (the main business street) is new; fine meals, etc. Germania Automat, 45 Zeil (opposite Hauptpost; main Post Office). Large Reich's Automat, 73 Kaiserstr., is very good; midday and evening meals, 60 Pf. to I :Mk. Restaurant Zum Junger Krokodil, 55 Kaiserstr. (3 minutes from station); good meals all day, 70 Pf. to i Alk. Many Germans. Stadelsches Kunstinstitut, 63 Schaumain Kai (facing river), is quickly reached by car No. 19. **This fine art gallery is very rich, it contains many old masters. Free Sundays, 1 1 to i o'clock. Do not miss one room in any corridor in any Art Gallery in Europe, as the end room always contains the treasures. This is to reward the earnest seeker. It is so in this case. Directly back of *Morello's large "Virgin, Child and St. Sebastian," No. 44, and Van Dyck's, No. 144, is a side room containing Roger van der Weyden's and Gerard Da\'id's small but magnificent paintings. Notice the delicate detail in these works; the cathedral borders are minutely perfect. At the next corner of Schaumain Kai above to the left is Liebig's mansion and Art Gallery. Also free Sundays, II to I. See it. Go to Verkehrsverein, 50 Kaiserstr., for free guide. BAD HOMBURG is a famous resort a few miles away. Hotel Frankfurter liof, Elizabethstr. and Haingau (central on car line); room, 1 1^ :Mk. Hotel Kaiser Hof (opposite Kurhaus); room, 2 Mk. Pens, 6 Mk. DARMSTADT has pretty surroundings and a large pic- ture gallery. Hotel Stadt Friedberg, 47 Rheinstr. (2 minutes from station); room and breakfast, 2 ]\Ik. Good. Hotel Ludwigshalle, Obergasse 1 2 (central) ; room and breakfast, 2 Mk. Gasthaus Zum Taunus, 46 Bleichstr. (i minute from station); room and breakfast, 2 Mk. Hotel Prinz Heinrich, 48:Bleichstr., room and breakfast, 2 1^ Mk. Hotel Kolnischer Hof, 51 Bleichstr.; room and breakfast, 2j^ ]\Ik. Kaiser Automat, 121^ Rheinstr Alt Darmstadt Restaurant and Keller. 20 Rheinstr., large, low priced. Melodious chimes ring hourly from the old castle church. Verkehrsverein, 14 Ehzabethenstrasse. WORMS contains a great Romanesque cathedral and the noble *Luther monument. Hotel Tannhauser (opposite station); room, xV^, Mk, Hotel Reichskrone, Kaiser WU- EUROPEAN GUIDE 63 helmstr. (near station); room and breakfast, 2.80 Mk. Verkehrsverein, Photographer Herbst., Lutherplatz (at monument). MANNHEIM, a beaudful modern city. Hotel Royal (at station); room, 2 Mk. Bahnhof hotel Lehn (opposite station); room, 2 Mk. Hotel-Restaurant Neckarthal (central); room and breakfast, 2.20 Mk. Verksv. in Kaufhaus Bogen 57. * HEIDELBERG is very lovely; stop here surely. *Hotel Blaukreuz, 2 Schifgasse (on the bank of the Neckar next to the old fort, central); room and breakfast, 132 to 2 INlk. Good. Hotel-Restaurant Gutenberg, 45 Hauptstr. (near station); room, i3^ Mk. Hotel Roter Hahn, 44 Hauptstr.; room and breakfast, 23^ Mk. Hotel-Restaurant Luxhof, 24 Hauptstr.; room and breakfast, 23^ Mk. Good. "Zum Silbernen Hirsch," 180 Hauptstr.; room and breakfast, 2]/^ Mk. *Christliches Hospiz Hotel "Hollander Hof," Neck- arstaden 22 (beautifully situated on river facing bridge); is new and good; room and breakfast, 2 Mk. Badenia Automat at 71 Hauptstr. From 236 Hauptstr. a picturesque, easy, shaded walk follows a winding stream to the wonderful Schloss (castle). Its magnificent level walks cover a mile, with grand views. It is free. Be sure to go to Verkehrs- verein, 105 Hauptstr., and get "Heidelberg" (English edition) free, with every attraction. The walks around the city are delightful. SPEYER (Spires): Great cathedral, finely decorated. Hotel zum Engel (at station); room and breakfast, 2 Mk. Wittelsbacher Hof. (large); room and breakfast, 2V2 Mk. CARLSRUHE (Karlsruhe), a modern city with stately streets. Hotel Prinz IMax, 37 Alderstr. (at station) ; room, 1 34 ^Ik. Monopol Hotel (opposite station); room, ij^ Mk. Hotel Wiener Hof, 6 Fasanenstr. (central); room and break- fast. 2 Mk. Verksv. in Rathaus. STUTTGART, the brilliant capital of Wurtemberg (the most beautifully situated of the German capitals), lies a Httle on one side the direct route. Architecturally it is very interesting, containing many fine buildings and lofty monuments. It is also rich artistically, its gallery having many works by old masters and many copies of noted pictures. Hotel-Restaurant Dierlamm (opposite station); room, 2 Mk. Hotel zur Post, 54 Friedrichstr. (i minute from station); room, 1 3^ Mk. Hotel Royal (opposite station) ; room, 2 V2 ^Ik. Automat at q Schloss Str., Verkehrsverein, H. Wildt (book- store), 38 Konigstr. It is only a short ride from Carlsruhe to beautiful 64 EUROPEAN GUIDE *BADEN-BADEN: See it surely. This delightfully pretty and healthy city lies on a little branch line; change at Oos. Climb the hill and look over the scenery. Hotel Terminus (to 1. of station); room, 2 Mk. Hotel-Restaurant Morin, 18 Luisenstr. (near Post Office); room, 2 Mk. Villa Marguerite, 6 Seufzer Alice; room, 2 Mk. STRASSBURG: See the wonderful cathedral and the clock. Hotel zu Post (near station); room and breakfast, 2.20 :\Ik. Hotel Diebold (near station) ; room and breakfast, 2)^ Mk. Hotel zum Gliickhaft Schiff von Zurich, Ziiricher- strasse 7 (near cathedral); room, 1.50 Mk. Hotel Royal (at station); room and breakfast, 2i'i^ Mk. Hotel Schmutz, Zurichstr.; room and breakfast, 2.10 Mk. The facade of the cathedral with the great rose window is very rich, the pierced spire is verj^ lofty and handsome. FREIBURG, a beautiful city with swift mountain streams running down the streets past the pretty figured pebbled pavements. The cathedral is large and interesting. Its superb pierced stone spire is probably the finest in Ger- many. Hotel Loretto, 42 Baslerstr.; room, i3^ Mk. Gast- hof Rest. Germaniasiile (2 minutes to r. of station); ij^o Mk. Hot.-Rest. jNIargrafler Hof (central); room, i^ Mk" Grand views from the Schlossberg, the Feldberg, and the Belchen. Verkehrsv., 9 Rotteckstr.; free books. SWITZERLAND Enter Switzerland with a full knowledge of the advantages of the Swiss general abonnement. If you have only a short time for sightseeing, you may use a 15-day Swiss abonnement, allowing you to journey to Chiasso, near Milan, to make a quick 7- to ID-day trip through all Northern Italy, to return to Switzerland and then devote the remaining time of the abonnement to seeing Switzerland, omitting the following cities: Zug, Zurich, Constance, and St. Gall. Reach Lucerne late on the last day of abonnement and there return ticket and receive deposit. See Lucerne and surroundings leisurely and pay to visit Zug, Zurich, Constance, St. Gall, Bregenz, etc. (From Lindau, on Lake Constance, tour Bavaria and Austria). This small fare expense is well repaid by the additional time allowed in these important cities. A third-class abonnement costs 45 Fr. net for 15 days (70 Fr. for 30 days). The best use of a 15-day abonnement follows, have ticket dated a day ahead so as to start early. Take 7.25 a. m. train EUROPE.\N GUIDE 65 from Basle (*right side), arriving at Chiasso, Como, or Milan about 5 p. m. Buy **Civelli's Guida Orario Generale pel Viaggiatore in Italia for 50 centimes at any station. See the sights in Milan, and v/hen leaving buy at the railway station one of the follow- ing Viaggi Circolari ItaUani, Xo. 53 (see maps at end of guide), for 2g.35 Lire, a 15 -day ticket good for a stop at all cities on the main line between jNIilan and Venice, then to Bologna, then to Milan. Xo. 106 costs 42.60 L., is good for 30 days and includes Milan, Verona, V^enice; extends to **Florence, Pisa, Genoa, Pavia, Milan, and is good for any city on the line between these points. This is probably the best ticket for Xorthern Italy. You may also buy for 40 L. *Bighetto di Abonnemento Speciali Series 4, good for 15 days unlimited travel to any and all cities between Milan, \^enice. Florence, Pisa and Milan (about eighteen main cities, but not reaching Genoa). See page 350 on in Civelli's Guide. You may thus see all of Xorthern Italy and all of Switzer- land for about 88 Fr. for railway expenses. Unless your time is very limited do not use this method of sightseeing, as the return to the X^orth over the Brenner route from Verona to Innsbruck is only 12.20 L., and from Innsbruck to Munich, 4.70 Kronen. This is *very attractive and is the best return route. Switzerland can be very com- pletely and enjoy ably seen in 15 tlays and should be given that time. Italy needs 30 days at least for sightseeing; more if possible. BASLE contains the **finest and largest picture gallerj- in Sw'itzerland. It is an important collection. Twenty- three of the famous Bocklin's strange but strong creations are here (notice them particularly); also **twenty-three of Hans Holbein the Younger's choice works. *Study this great German master carefully. Xotice the beauty of his portrait of Boniface Amberbach. Do not be offended by ''The Dead Christ"; it is an anatomical study and it was necessary in his day to give this picture a religious title or it could not be shown. In its detail it is wonderful. Hotel Jura (opposite Central station) ; room, 2 Fr. Hotel Stadthof, at Barfiissler- platz (central) ; room, 2 Fr. Hotel Bayrischer Hof (opposite Baden station); room, 2 Fr. Hotel Schrieder (opposite Baden railway station); room, 23^ Fr. Golden Lamb Hotel, 10 Rebgasse (3 minutes from Baden station); room, i}i Fr. Hotel Blau Kreuz Haus, 23 Petersgraben ; room, 2 Fr. *The Swiss railways use the Federal railway station, electric cars connect the Baden and Federal stations. Hotel Bristol 66 EUROPEAN GUIDE (opposite Federal station); room, 23^ Fr. Hot. Berner Hof (opposite Federal station); room, 23^2 Fr. After custom examination take electric car at the door and go to the Swiss (Federal) station. *Check. j^our bag in Federal station, not the Baden station, or you will have trouble when removing it. At Hotelierbureau, 11 St. Jacobsstr. (2 minutes from Central (Swiss) Railway Station) secure a *good free book, "The Hotels of Switzerland," 225 pages, illustrated, maps, etc., or it may be had at any Free Inquiry Ofl&ce. At I>ee Inciuiry Office, 2 Falknerstr. (near Rathaus), get fine *Basle guide free (do not pay anything for it). *Free Enquiry Offices in every Swiss city (see "Hotels of Switzerland," l)age 4). Buy **"Krusi" for i Fr. This is a Government rail- way guide with maps, showing complete times and routes of Swiss railways and boats to use with abonnements. You may buy from the publisher, Fritz Amberger, 12 Sihlhoferstr, Zurich, or at any railway station **Burkli's Kursbuch or "Liste des billets circulaires." It is a small encyclopedia of **all the low-priced Sunday, holiday, and combination tickets throughout Switzerland and Italy. Particularly notice the Coupon-Strecke page 100 and on. It is alpha- betically arranged and easily understood. Price, 50 centimes. Look under Gotthardbahn (see page in Index on front yellow cover) for 2-day trip No. 2006 from Brunnen through Arth- Goldau to Rigi Kulm (top), and return for only 6.85 Fr.; same tickets from Lucerne, 7. go Fr. lo-day tickets (see 2003 and 2001) cost 9.60 and 10.25 Fr. See Berner Oberlahn- Bahnen in Index for lo-day trip from Interlaken to **]\Iurren for S.I 5 Fr.,Iand Interlaken to Schynige Platte for 8 Fr. See the Coupon-Strecke (about page 100) for No. 300, Alpnach- stadt (only 55 centimes from Lucerne) to **Pilatuskulm and return for 12.80 Fr. Also see No. 270, Brienz to Rothorn- kulm (2352 metres) and return for 7.50 Fr.; this is a grand trip. Viege (Visp) to Zermatt (see No. 218) for 7.50 Fr. Zermatt to Gornergrat (see No. 238) and return for 16.20 Fr. Every low-priced tour by lake and rail from all Swiss cities is included in this book. Natives and old travelers profit by it greatly. At Federal Railway Station buy **Swiss General abonne- ment for 15 days (sufficient time for a quick tour); price for third class (practically everybody rides third class), 50 Fr. (5 Fr. returned on last day). A 30-day ticket costs 70 Fr. net. *Have ticket dated a day ahead so an early start may be made. *One of j^our photographs must be attached to ticket. EUROPEAN GUIDE 67 ** Always show your abonnement when purchasing extra railway tickets for high mountain tours; it reduces your rates. **Vour first trip should be to St. Moritz, one of the grandest scenic trips in Europe. To do this go to Zurich, which see in the morning. In early afternoon take boat at 2.08 p. m. to Wadensweil, at head of Lake Zurich, from here take 3.51 p. m. train to Chur; stop here over night. Next day take the 5.36 a. m. train to **St. Moritz, arriving g.45 a. m. The 4.15 p. m. train (or earlier if desired) may be returned on, reaching Zurich at 10.40 p. m. A i-day trip may be taken from Zurich; leaving at 5 a. m. and reaching St. Moritz at 2.25 p. m. Two hours may be spent there and the 4.15 train returned on to Zurich. Prices are high in St. Moritz; take lunch with you. ZURICH is beautifully located, facing the lake and the mountains; Uetliberg gives fine view (ascend on foot or by rail for 2 Fr.). Hotel Seehof (at boat landing); room, 1% to 2 Fr. Hotel Post (at station); room, 2 Fr. Hotel Simplon (near station); room, 2)4 Fr. Hotel Briinig (to left station); room, 2>2 Fr. Hotel Stadthof (at station); room, 2 Fr. Hotel Kopf, Limmatplatz; room, ij^ Fr. Hotel Augustiner- hof, St. Peterstr. (central); room, 2 Fr. Hotel Jura, room, iVi Fr. For Christian Hospiz see list before Dusseldorf. Free Inquir>^ Office, i Stadthausquai. **Take right side of car surely on St. Moritz trip. The upper Engadine is magnificent; the constantly changing outlook, thousands of feet below, is a wonderful sight. CHUR: Hotel Weisses Kreuz (near Post Office, central); room, 2 Fr. Hotel Lukmanier (opposite Post Office); room, 2 Fr. Hotel Stern (near Post Office); room, 2 Fr. Hotel Steinbock (opposite station) ; room, 3 Fr. Take right side of car for grand views. Inquiry Office near Post Office. **ST. MORITZ DO'RF is connected with St. :Moritz Bad by electric tramway (20 centimes). The loVely lake and the surrounding snowclad mountains are very attractive. St. Moritzdorf Hotel; room, 2^ Fr.; Pens. 7 Fr. Hotel Bristol; room, 2V2 to 3 Fr. Hotel Bahnhof and Hotel Baren moderate. St. IMoritz is dear in all ways, as are all high mountain cities. Enquiry Office here. THUSIS may be stopped at and the celebrated Via Mala may be seen. ^lany grand excursions. Hotel Weisses Kreuz (at station) ; room. 2 to 3 Fr. Hotel Rhatia (near Post Office), room, 2 Fr. Hotel Spliigen (near station); room, 2 to 3 Fr. Enquiry Office, A. Roth, Poststr. Return may be made to Zurich or to 68 EUROPEAN GUIDE Arth-Goldau (Hotel Rigi; room, iK> Fr.; meals low, good. Hotel Central; room, 2 Fr.). Fluelen (*Hotel Fluelerhof, beautifully facing the lake of the Four Cantons; room, I '2 Fr., meals low) or to LUCERNE : Alpina Hotel, 6 Frankenstr. (to left station) ; room, 2,12 Fr. Hotel Schliissel, Franziskanerplatz (0 minutes from station); room, 2 Fr. Hotel Germania (at station); room, 2K Fr. Hotel Alpenclub (5 minutes from station); room' 2 Fr. Schiller Hotel, 4 Sempacherstr. (near station); room, 2 Fr. Hotel Adler (central); room, 232 to 3 Fr. Temperance Restaurant at 12 Theaterstr. (2 minutes from station) ; dinner, i Fr. Good meals. Lucerne is often over- crowded and costly. Having your abonnement, it is easy to take the 8.25 p. m. train to Wolhusen, arriving at 8.57. Hotel Bahnhof (right opposite station); room, iH Fr. Meals good and low. Return to Lucerne on 6.18 or 8.04 a. m. train. **C;o at once over the St. Gotthard route to Bellinzona (an Italian-Swiss city) ; Hotel Bahnhof (at station) ; room, i ' 2 Fr., taking the right side surely. Compare the richly adorned cathedral with those of the North. This is a magnificent excursion, so go at once; it may rain on your second trip, and you will miss all the scenery. Return the same day to Fluelen (where you can take boat) or to Lucerne. Lucerne has a great attraction in the lake, to which your abonnement gives you free access at all times. If you ascend Rigi, stop over night at Hotel Felschen ; room, 2 Fr. (Rigi is not hard to ascend on foot.) Some persons may wish to stop at Lucerne before purchasing abonnement, thus making full use of the limited time. The Free Enquiry Office at 2 Kapell- platz gives free guides, maps of Switzerland and Italy, and all information. *At oiBce Verkehrsbureau Luzern, Sunday tickets for boat to Fluelen and return, i Fr. Lake abonne- ments are al^o sold for small amounts good for 5 days' un- limited travel. Special low-priced tickets to all points on Sunda\-s (see Burkli Kurbusch). **The Stanserhorn is a popular high mountain resort near Lucerne. It is 1901 metres high and has grand, far-reaching views. Coupon Ao. 304 Stans to Stanserhorn and return costs 8 Fr. (the fare from Lucerne to Stans is less than i Fr.). Sunday tickets (Sonntagsbillete), good for two days only, are 6 Fr. See Krusi Index for Stanserhorn-Stans trips. The best Swiss tour follows- ZUG: Hotel Rigi; room, j}4 Fr. Hotel Ochsen (central); room, 2 Fr. Hotel Bahnhof (at station) ; room, 2 Fr. Hotel EUROPEAN GUIDE 69 Hirschen; room, 2 Fr. Hotel Zugerhof (near station); room, 2 to 3 Fr. The lake is charming. Through Zurich to ST, GALL: Hotel Hecht (central); room, 3 Fr. Hotel Bahnhof (near station) ; room, 2 Fr. Hotel Hirschen (central) ; room, 2 to 3 Fr. Hotel Ochs and Kinkeln; low terms. Enquiry Office, 2 Schiitzengasse. RORSCHACH (.Hotel Hirschen; room, 2H Fr. Hotel Bodan; room, 2 Fr.) and ROMANSHORN (Schillings Gasthof zum Hirschen; room, 1^2 Fr.; meals low) may be visited. *CONSTANCE; Hotel Hecht (near lake); room, 23^ Fr. Gasthof Hohes Haus (3 minutes from station) ; room, i Y^ Fr. Vereinhaus St. Johann (near Cathedral); room, 2 Fr. "Insel Minan'"; room, xl2 and 2 Fr. Boat to SCHAFFHAUSEN: Hotel zum Riesen (near station); room, 2 Fr. Gasthof zur Tanne (3 nunutes from station); room, \}'2 Fr. Hotel Batinhof-Terrainus; room, 2 Fr. Hotel Rheinischer Hof (opposite station); room, 2 Fr. Hotel Schwannen, Hauptplatz (2 minutes from station); room, 2 Fr. From the left side of train on leaving a fine view of the Rhine Falls is obtained. To Basel, to Olten, and SOLOTHURN (Soleure), the most ancient city except Treves north of the Alps. Hotel Adler (central, near Post Office) ; room, 2 Fr. Hotel Terminus (opposite Xeu Soleure station); room, 2'^A Fr. Hotel Krone (near station); room, 2^ Fr. See the antique Gates and Bastions, the Leaning Tower, the *Cathedral and the Armorv. In the City Museum is the famed'Solothum Madonna by Holbein, which, although restored, is still ver\' beautiful. This is a grand mountain centre. For extensive \new ascend the Weissenstein (1287 metres, 3 Fr.") and take fine walk to the Hasenmatte. NEUCHATEL: Hotel Suisse, Rue de THopital; room, 2 Fr.; meals low. Hotel Soleil; room, 2 Fr. Hotel du Port; room, 2 Fr- Tour lake to Estavaver, to Yverdon, and on to LAUSANNE : Hotel du Leman, Place Pepinet 3; room, 1 Fr. Hotel de la Poste; room, i^^ Fr. Hotel Central (at Post Office): room, 2^^ Fr. Hotel National (at station); room, 2^4 Fr. Inquiry Office, Place St. Francois No. 13. **GENEVA: A beautifully brilliant city with charming surroundings. Tour the lake. Hotel du Valais, 26 Rue de Berne (central); room. 1.50 Fr.: meals low. Hotel de la Gare (near station); room. 1.50 Fr. Hotel des Alpes, Rue de Rive; room, 2l^ Fr. Hotel Central Cat station): room, 2'^A Fr. Christian Hospiz (see list). Inquiry Office, 3 Place de Bergues. The *]Musee Rath has a good picture gallery. So has the 70 EUROPEAN GUIDE Musee Ariana at V'arembe, a handsome building in a lovely park. Magnificent view of **Mt. Blanc and the Alps from Saleve. See Coupon-Strecke No. 221 for 2.90 Fr. Take rail by the north shore to Lausanne, Ouchy, Vevey: Hotel de la Gare (near station); low; Hotel Pens, des Families (near station); room, 2 Fr. Christian Hospiz; room, 13^2 Fr. Montreux: Hotel Richmont (central); room, 2 Fr.; Hotel Rest du Lemann; room, 1.50 Fr.; meals good, low; recom- mended; to Territet; near is Veytaux-Chillon, on edge of lake, near *Castle of Chillon (see it surely). Just here is Hotel and Buffet de la Gare; room, 1.50 to 2 Fr.; meals low. A trip may be made from here to St. Maurice, Mar- tigny, where extra payment is made for a view of Mt. Blanc from Chamounix ; or on to Visp (Viege), where you must pay for a trip to Zenuatt, amidst the grandest Alpine scener>' (the Riffleberg and the Gornergrat are magnificent). Terminus Hotel; room, 2 Fr. Hotel de la Poste; low. Enquiry OfTice, "Journal de Zermatt." Return to Lausanne. Take right side for fine views to FRIBOURG: Hotel Kopf, Rue de Lausanne; room, 1.50 Fr. Hotel Strauss; room, 1.50 Fr. Hotel Suisse (5 mhuites from station; opposite Post Office); room, 2 Fr. Hotel de la Tete-Noire (5 minutes from station); room, lU Fr. Tnquirv Office. 35 Rue de Romont **BERNE- Hotel Emmenthalerhof, Neuengasse 19 (near station): room. 2 Fr. Hotel de la Poste, Neuengasse 4S: room. 2 Fr. Hotel zum Goldener Adler, 7 Gerechtig- keitgasse room. 2 Fr. Hotel Stadthof, Kornhausp latz; room iVo Fr. Hotel Bahnhof, 25 Neuengasse (2 minutes from'station); room. 2 Fr. Hotel ,^ternen (near station), room. 2 Fr. Christian Hospiz, see list, ^n ascent to the *Gurtenkulm gives a magnificent Pa"°''^7^%''^,^:,:J;t cursion from Berne, T.90 Fr.; on Sundaysonly, 80 centimes. Pension Herter, s Kramgasse and Pens. Q^isisana 6 Ober- weg; low terms. Inquir>' Office at railway ^ f 'o^^; *7|^^ view from the Schanzli. only five mJnutes walk be>ond the bridge. Do not miss this splendid sight. THUN: Hotel Schweizerhofj room, 2 Fr. HotelKrone (central): room. rair. ruu.u, . Fr. Hotel Baren; room, 2 Fr. Gasthof zur Metzgern. Rathausplatz (5 minutes from station;, room. 1.80 Fr. Bv boat to **INTERLAKEN : Temperance Restaurant and i'en- sion Rutli, Rosenstrasse (2 minutes from station) ; room, 1.50 Fr.; good meals; clean, comfortable. Hotel Bavaria EUROPE.\N GUIDE 71 (on the Hoheweg, central); room, 2 Fr. Pension Oberhofen; 4.50 Fr. Hotel Temperenzhof, 312 Neue Bahnhofstr. (2 min- utes from station); room, i '/2 Fr. Pens., 6 Fr. Hotel Gold Anker, 6 Marktgasse; room and breakfast, 2)4. Fr. Hotel Pension Blaues Kreuz, 30 Bernastr.; room, ij^ Fr. Free Inquiry Office at entrance to Kurgarten. Visit the Heim- wehtiu'h for a wonderful view; an easy walk of half an hour. *This is a grand centre for many beautiful excursions. Stay a few days here. Hartmann's Guide to Interlaken (free) gives all attractions. See cheap excursions in back of book. Fine map, etc. Very cheap *Sunday excursions only to **Schynige Platte for 6 Fr. from Ost station. *Grand Sunday excursion to Brienzer Rothorn, only 6.70 Fr. See last page Guide to Interlaken. The rich sunset glow on the Jungfrau is the main attraction in this charming city. An ascent to **Murren (return ticket 8.15 Fr.) is taken by many tourists for the majestic views. Take rail to *Lauterbrunnen (see the village and waterfalls on the return trip), and by rail (or foot if you wish, a stiff climb, but very popular) to *Murren, and one-half hour higher from the Almendhubel, amidst rich Alpine flora, magnificent view of mountains, glaciers, and valley. The Schilthorn (2973 metres) is a four hours' climb from Murren. **The vast panoramic view is astonishing. This is the easiest ascent for the finest view in the Alps; a guide is necessary and costs about 8 Fr. The *Schynige Platte also gives a glorious panorama. ^Slany ascend the Kleine Scheidegg from Lauterbrunnen for the fine view. BRIENZ (by boat): Hotel zum Baren; room, 2 Fr. Hotel Rossli; 2 Fr. Interesting city. **The great Brienzer Rothorn gives fine view of the whole Bernese Alpine chain. Excursion by Coupon-Strecke Xo. 270 is 7.50 Fr. On Sun- days only, from Interlaken, this excursion is 6.70 Fr. MEIRINGEN: Hotel zum Adler; room, xV^ Fr. Hotel Flora (at station); room, 2 Fr. Hotel zum Weissen Kreuz, Kirchgasse (3 minutes from station); room, 2 Fr. Sarnen is prettily located on Sarnen Lake. Kems, a mile away and 1000 feet higher, is a quiet village for a stay. Hotel Sonne; room, 2 Fr.; pension, 4,1/^ Fr.; good. Hotel Krone (central); room, 2 Fr.; Pens., 4^ Fr.; good. Many far-reaching views and foot excursions from here. Leave Switzerland, on last day of abonnement, at Locarno, Lugano or Chiasso, *return ticket and receive 5 Fr. Lugano, the lake, and Paradiso (very near) are lovely. Proceed to Como, where buy at station **Civelli'5 "Guida Orario 72 EUROPEAN GUIDE Generale pel Viaggiatore in Italia" for 50 centimes. This is a fine official circular tour guide to all Italy. Large railway map and hotels in back of book, maps of all cities at intervals. Turn to Index for page of "Viaggi Circolari in Ferrovia e sui Laghi'' (near end of book). If you wish, buy Viaggio No. 3 — Gomo, Chiasso, Lugano; boat to Porlezza, Menaggio; boat to Bellagio (extremely beautiful); boat to Como. Voyage may be reversed. Price of circular ticket, 8.80 L., third-class, good 15 days. If this amount seems large, purchase at Milan (see next page of Guida, botLom note number four) a tine 8-day ticket for 4.90 L., as follows: Milan, Como, Bellagio, Lecco, Milan. By stopping at Lugano a short time and taking boat to Porlezza and return (1.55 L.) you may see this lake also. Again see note No. 4 for 8-day tour of Lake ^Maggiore from Milan with return for 6.20 L. When entering Italy you may change at Bellinzona for LOCARNO (where abonnement may be returned). Hotel Pens. Villa Erica (5 minutes from station); room, 2 Fr. *Climb to the ]\Iadonna del Sasso; magnificent interior. See Ciseri's beautiful "Sepoltura di Cristo" (Burial of Christ). Fine view. (See Dover-Ostend Guide.) Cars take you there in 10 minutes. You may tour the entire lake from Locarno for 5.50 Fr.; one way only 3.45 Fr. (Sec "Krusi," p. 248, for terms and map of lakes.) Inquirj^ Office, Piazza Grande. Visit Pallanza, Baveno, Isola Bella, Isola Madre, Stresa, Arona, Intra, Luino. Here take train to Ponte Tresa, and exquisitely beautiful boat trip to LUGANO: Milan Hotel Bahnhof (near station); room, iH Fr. Passentenhotel Pens. Lucern (near station); room, 1.50 Fr. Hotel Oberland (near station); room, 2 Fr.; Pens.. 6 Fr. Hotel Jura (opposite station) ; room, 2 Fr. Hotel Weisses Kreuz (at station) ; room, 2 Fr. Hotel Stadthof (at station) ; room, 2 Fr. (The Swiss Enquiry Office, on the Quai, gives away a *fine guide with a list of 62 hotels in this small city.) The city, the lake, and the surroundings are charming. Monte San Salvatore (Sunday return ticket only 2 Fr.; fair view only), and Monte Generoso (the finest of Alpine prospects) are very near. *This view is probably ',**the most beautiful in Europe; the golden sunset is extremely lovely. It is rather costly; 10 Fr. for return ticket (*fest days and Sundays, only 5 Fr.). *Church of Sta. Maria degli Angioli contains Luini's grand frescoes and pictures. See the cathedral. EUROPEAN GUIDE 73 ITALY Take boat to Porlezza, and by delightful rail trip through mountain scenery to MENAGGIO : Hotel-Restaurant Bahnhof (at boat land- ing); room, 2 L.; Pens., b L. Albergo Del Porto (on lake, 3 minutes to r. of boat landing); room, 2 L. Nice garden. Hotel Corona; room, 2 L. This is a centre for many excur- sions; Villa Vigoni; to Cadenabbia and * Villa Carlotta, etc. LARIANNA adjoins Menaggio and is one with it. The cathedral is finely frescoed and has good pictures. Trattoria Lario (facing lake); room, i}4 to 2 L. Hotel Pension Couronne (at boat landing); room, 2 L. **BELLAGIO is the gem of the lakes of Northern Italy. *VilIa Melzi, Villa Serbelloni (*grandest view on the lakes) and Villa Giuha are exquisite. *Hotel Pension Suisse (Schweitzerhof) (facing boat landing); room, 2 L.; pens., 6 L. Good and popular. Trattoria Valscichi (at Post Office); room, I to I '2 L. Simple. *Antica Trattoria del Giardinetto (up hill near church, large garden, fine view); room, i},^ L.; meals low. Plain and good. If you have been fortunate enough to secure an old or new Baedeker's "Northern Italy" (not Italy in one volume), every villa and point of interest is shown. *They may be often picked up for ver>' little, and are especially valuable where the cities and surroundings are so rich in natural and artistic beauty. Take boat down the lake amidst luxuriant scenery to COMO : By all means visit the grand cathedrals of Italy. Their marvellous richness in decorative detail is wonderful. **Como has one of the best in Northern Italy. Ristorante Barchetta (con allogia), i Piazza Cavour (opposite boat landing); room, 2V^ L. Good meals, low, very popular. Hotel Belle Vue, 10 Piazza Cavour; room, 2}4 L. Albergo St. Gotthard, Via Domenico Fontana, corner Via Cairoli (i minute from boat landing); room, iH L.; good. *See statue of Volta just here. Albergo Firenze, Piazza Alexandre Volta; room, iM L. Hotel Pension Bahnhof, 32 Via Tolmesi Gallio (2 minutes from railway station); room, 2 L. MONZA: **The cathedral is magnificently frescoed and has many beautiful paintings, carvings, hangings, tapestries, etc. Trattoria del Duomo (to right of cathedral); room, i]4 I- Simple. To right of 19 Via Italia (main street lead- ing to cathedral) **see a grandly frescoed and decorated little church called St. Marie Magd. et Teresia; it is a master- piece of richness. 74 EUROPE-\N GUIDE MILAN: Take car marked "Duomo" to cathedral, in centre of city. In front of cathedral is Via Rastrelli and at i8, *Hotel International Meuble; room, 2 L. It is opposite King's palace, and is recommended as very good. Fine restaurant at No. 20, next to hotel. Moderate priced. Hotel Excelsior-Suisse, 20 Via RastreUi; room, 3 L. Large. Hotel Marconi, 5 Via S. Vittore al Teatro (at West of main Post Office); room, 2 to 2V2 L. Alb. Rest. Capello, 18 V'ia Carlo Alberto (2 minutes from cathedral); room, 3 L. New, modern. Piazza Fontana is one minute from cathedral. Around it cluster many hotels as follows: Hotel Commercio No. 5; room, 2)A to 3 L.; large. Hotel Torinese No. 4; room, i?^ L. Albergo Zurigo No. 6; room, i>2 to 2 L. Hotel Bissione-Bellevue No. 8; room, 2 to 2'^ L. Hotel Lario; room, 2 to 2'^ L. Hotel Fontana No. 14; room, 2 to 232 L.; large. All attractions centre around the cathedral, so, if pos- sible, engage room near it. Near the station are the following: Hotel Como (to left of station); room, 2 L. Large, fme. Hotel Schmid, 16 Via Marco Polo (i minute from station); room, 2 L. Albrecht's Helvetia Savoie Hotel, Via Marco Polo, room, 2 L. Albergo del Ciiglio, 26 Viale Venezia (2 minutes from station); room. 1'^ L. Terminus Flotel, I Piazza Statione Central (i minute to 1. of station); room, 3 L. Albergo Torino, Via Panfilo Castaldi (i minute from station); room, 2 L. Fine Automat Puricella, 4 Via Cesare Cantu (3 minutes from Cathedral down Via Orefici); cola- zione (midday) and pranzo (evening) meals very good. Roast beef and roast chicken (polio), at 60 centimes, very popular. Free bowl of ice (ghiacci) at all meals. Gelato in cuppa (ice crearn), 20 centimes per cup, finely flavored. Vino bianchi (white wine) and vino rosso (red wine), 30 cen- times per mezzo (1^ litre or over i pint); this is the right price to pay, 30 to 35 centimes. Automat Quisisana. 8 Via S. Radegonda (100 feet from North centre of cathedral) is well patronized. Touring Company Gondrand, 24 Gallcria Vittoria Emanuele (centre aisle, right side, i minute from cathedral) give free guides to manv cities. If not already purchased, buy **Civelli's " Guida Orario Generale pel Viaggiatore in Italia" for 50 centimes. Turn to index for pages of Viaggi Circolari Italiani (see mans in back of book for these). The day before leaving Milan arrange to buy Viaggi Circolari Italiani No. 116. This is a 45-day circular tour of very nearly all Italy for 63.60 L. Viagjri No. 121 is also fairly good, starting from Chiasso and omitting Turin. It is a 45-day, 63.60 L. trip also. Go EUROPEAN GUIDE 75 over each route carefully. You lose 5 days (those spent in Milan) by choosing the latter. You, however, see Florence twice. Forty-five days is liberal time allowance; thirty days is enough; but it is best to take your time seeing Italy and see it well. If you wish to include Sicily (of which more hereafter), forty-five days is not too much time. No matter in what class you travel, first, second, or third, you save very largely using these tickets. Fifty Viaggi Circolari Italiani are given in this book with maps showing the main cities on each route. (You may stop at any small city between the main ones by simply stating the name to the station agent, who writes it on ticket.) Forty "Viaggi Circolari in Ferrovia e sui Laghi" (circular voyages on trains and lakes) are also given. The terms are very low. Viaggio *H. and numbers 11, 12, 19, 19 bis, 23 and lower note 4 are very attractive. "H" is a 5-day tour of lake Garda from Descenzano with many stops for 5.10 L. These tickets are sold in Milan. *A little native railway guide, '"L'lndicatore Generale nell 'alta Italia," costing 25 centimes, gives many special tickets on the back of the enclosed map. They are very clearly stated and easy to understand. Please buy this cheap book. In Civelli's Guide you will also find "Biglietti di Abbona- mento Speciali" in back of book. These give unlimited travel within certain zones for a number of days; thus *Series 4 gives 15 days unlimited travel to all cities between Milan, Venice, Rimini, Florence, Pisa and Milan for 40 L. third class; 65 L. second class. For 30 days, third class, 65 L.; second class, no L. *Series 13 unlimited travel all over Sicily for 7 days for 27 L. third class, etc. *The "Viaggi Circolari Italiani" may be prolonged 10 days overtime by paying 10 per cent, of the amount of ticket before it expires and further prolonged by paying i per cent, per day after that until the original time is doubled. Note this with«No. 116. Many steamship companies have agencies in Milan, among them are the White Star. Cunard, North German Lloyd, Hamburg- American and Italian Royal Mail lines. **Take car No. 6 to cemetery (Nuovo Cimitero), one of the grandest in Italy; the statuary is magnificent. All cemeteries in Italy are superb. Do not miss this one, it is astonishing. The cathedral is the largest Gothic church save Seville, Spain. It has one of the most impressive interiors in Europe. It is very elaborate, but not as pure or perfect as many French cathedrals. *Ascend to top of spire of cathedral by 6 a. m. Fine view of the Alps and the statue-crowded roof. *Save 76 EUROPEAN GUIDE money by seeing all galleries, etc. on Sunday and other free days throughout Italy. *Arrange your tour so as to spend one Sunday in ]Milan, one in Venice, one or two in Florence one or two in Rome, Thursday to Monday in and around Naples, one Sunday in Genoa or Turin. In Milan on Sunday (free day) you could see the following in order named- the **Brera, *Museum Poldi Pezzoli, the Ambrosiana and the Castello During June, July, and August a "Guida lllustrata of all Italy is given away at railway stations at Milan, Vemce, etc. It gives all attractions, free days etc It is published at Rome at i6o Corso Umberto i. where you may get it. Always order *"un mezzo vino domestico " when ordering wine; insist on having this only. Do not allow the waiter to charge you for the amount you drink out of a very large bottle he will bring you or it will cost you dearly; do not touch it. Drink only out of a bottle of specified size with the price stamped on it as it is very gener- ally the native custom. Look at Viaggi Circolari No. 52. It embraces an additional number of nclily artistic interior cities. If you wish, pay station agent at Milan 20.20 L. for this 15-day circular ticket. Show him the tour and number in guide book, and he will issue ticket. **Station agent must always stamp next station at which you wish to stop on book before you take train. The day before leaving Milan buy **Circular Voyage Ticket No. 116 (45 days, 63.60 L.) at station and have ticket stamped Treviglio if you wish to pay for quaint Bergamo. Trat- toria Piemontese, 26 Viale Stazione (at station); room, 1.75 to 2 L. Good, all conveniences. Grand Albergo. 16 Ditto; room, 2 to 2i'2 L. Albergo Concordia, 8 Ditto (3 minutes from station) ; room, i ]i L. Alb. Capello D'Oro, No. 2 Ditto; room, iH L. Bergamo is all up on the heights; take the bus to the Citta or old town. *E very thing of interest sur- rounds the great square called Piazza Garibaldi; the lower town is reallv not Bergamo, but San Leonardo. BRESCIA: Hotel d'ltalie, 32 Corso Zanardelli; room, 2^/^ L. Albergo del Gallo, 12 Via Trieste (near cathedral); room, 2 L. Albergo Orologio Vecchio (facing cathedral); room, I ¥2^ to 2 L. Alb. Igea, 5 Viale della Stazione (i minute from station); room, ij^ to 2 L. New, good. The ISIuseo Patrio (central, free) contains a **beautiful antique bronze statue of Victory. National Italian Association, Via Mercanzie 2q, gives free guides to all cities, free days, etc. **See Moretto's works (very fine) in San Clemente. This painter was a great master. EUROPEAN GUIDE 77 *ISEO (near Brescia), on beautiful Lake Iseo, deserves a visit. The only hotel is Albergo Leon d'Oro (on lake, at boat landing); room, 1.75 to 2 L. Good; meals low. Ask to see visitors' register. Tour this lake. For a grand tour of Lake Garda Viaggi Circolari "H," 5 days, 5.10 L., third class, may be bought at DESENZANO: Rest.-x\llogia Alia Barchetta, no Piazza Bancheria (i minute to 1. of boat landing, opposite station); room, I to I Vi L. Hotel Mayer (opposite station) ; room, 2 L. Large, fine. It is far better to stop at the enchanting little village of SIBMIONE : *Hotel Eden (facing boat landing) ; room, i>2 to 2 L. Good; garden on lake. Hotel Pension Germania (i minute from boat landing; next to castle); room, i.l^ L. Pens., 6 L. Hot Sirmione (at boat landing); room, 1 14 to 2 L. Large, fine. *In the early morning walk across the island to the grotto of Catullus in the silver leafed olive groves for a grand view. This spot was dearly loved and often praised by the Roman poets. SALO: Hotel Pension Baviera (at boat landing); room, ili to 2 L. A clean healthy city on a pretty bay. GARDONE, a short walk from Salo, is a favorite resort. RIVA, an Austrian city *grandly situated amidst tower- ing mountains and facing *the exquisitely transparent green water of Lake Garda, is the most beautiful spot in this region. *Hotel Garni Jolande, on the Hafenpromenade next to city boat landing (5 minutes from railway station)-, has fine rooms, overlooking lake; room, 1.20 Kr. or L. Albergo Bohm (Gasthof), Viale Dante Aligheri (i minute to r. of station); room, 1.40 Kr. Albergo Bucher, Viale Dante Aligheri corner Viale Roma; room, 1.40 Kr. Hotel Krautner, same street; room, 1.40 Kr. VERONA is the most purely Italian city, it is rich in Roman remains. The Piazza dell 'Erbe is the great market place, no other like it in Italy. The ScaHger's monuments are unique in this country. The Duomo (cathedral), S. Zenone (the grandest Romanesque church in Northern Italy), S. Fermo, and S. Anastasia (which rivals S. Martino of Lucca as the finest Northern Gothic church) should be seen. The *Arena is well preserved (free Sunday); the Giardino Giusti has many old trees. Hotel Gabbia d'Oro, Piazza d'Erbe (central); room-, 2 L. Al Commercianti, Prop. Lenzi, Via Gran Czara e Dietro Via Nuovo 16 (near Arena) ; room, i ^4 L.; meals good. Hotel-Pension Chiave d'Oro, 27 Via Mazzini (the main street, 2 minutes from Arena and 10 minutes from 78 EUROPEAN GUIDE station); room, iH to 2 L.; good, new. Alb.-Rist. Scala Mazzanti, 6 Via Mazzanti (near central market); room, 2 L.; good; fine meals. Albergo-Ristorante Ferrata, Vicolo Teatro Filarmonica i (2 minutes to 1. of *Arena and the *Roman Arch crossing the street); room, 2 L.; good, central, popular, Albergo Lombardia, 78 Corso Vittoria Emmanuele (5 minutes from station on car line) ; room, i ,'2 L. A large horse bus runs from Piazza dell 'Erbe to Castello San Pietro, on the heights; fare, 10 centimes; view. Valpolicella (either rosa, red, which is the best, or bianchi, white) is a line local wine, 50 centimes per mezzo. Always drink "gasosa" (effervescent soda, 10 centimes per bottle) with your wine. It makes it closely approach champagne. *Nationaritalian Association, 16 Via Farina, free books, etc. There are two railway stations at Verona; *early train from the old station only. The street cars do not run so early, walk; take a cab or stay over night near station. VICENZA: Hotel Roma; low. Fine view from the Madonna del Monte. This was Palladio's native city and it is fiUed with his finest architectural achievements. PADUA (Padova), a richly artistic, old, quiet city with a gentle climate. The beautiful Prato della Valle, the public park-like square, is notable; it is in front of *S. Giustina, *S. Antonio (11 Santo) has a gorgeous interior. The Arena Chapel is famous for Giotto's frescoes. Hotel de la Gare (opposite station); room, 2 L. Albergo alia Speranza (at station); low. Hotel Fanti-Stella d'Oro, Piazza Garibaldi; room, 3 L. **VENICE is beautiful and has many art treasures, but you must be careful of your health in this city. **In warm weather keep away from the side canals, they are ofi^ensive and unhealthy. Engage a room away from canals and **never take a room in warm weather unless a canopy covers the bed, as the gnats (mosquitoes) are insufferable. If you arrive late at night, Albergo Terminus e Viaggiatori, 119 Rio Terra Lista di Spagna is i minute to left of station along Grand Canal; room, 3 L., clean, good. If you arrive early, take steamboat right in front of station (10 centimes) to St. Mark's Landing, (San Marco; it is near St. Mark's; palace of Doges, etc.) Nearly all passengers take the steam- boat; *you need no gondolas in Venice; bridges everywhere, also many long streets and large squares. The Christliches Hospiz, 3581 Campo S. Angelo (5 minutes from St. Mark's), is well located, properly managed and low-priced; room, i^ L.; pens., 5 L.; recommended. Deutsches Heim, 150 Sottopor- EUROPEAN GUIDE 79 tico e calle del Capello Nero (right back of clock, facing St. Mark's) is a fine pension. Pens., 8 L. Albergo-Ristorante alia Belle Venezia, 4709 Calle dei Fabbri (2 minutes from St. Mark's, straight back from Grand Canal); room, 2 to 2]/^ L.; good meals. Alb.-Rist. Bonvecchiati, 4486 Calle Carlo Goldoni (2 minutes from St. Mark's, straight back from Grand Canal); room, 3 L.; pens., g L.; large, popular; fine native house. International Pension, 2399 Calle Larga 22 ISIarzo (3 minutes from front of St. Mark's, i minute from Grand Canal); room, 3 L.; pens., 63.2 L.; modern, fine, clean. At Santa Luca Calle Carlo Goldini 4481 is private house of Anna Fator; room, iH L.; clean, good; all conveniences. It is 2 minutes from St. Mark's, straight back from the water. Deutsches Gasthaus Fontanini, Calle dei Fabbri 4675; rooms and meals low; near Anna Fator's. Flotel Pens. Opitz, Traghetto Magonetta; room 2 L.; good. Hotel Portinni- cula; room 2 L. Buy large colored map of Venice from men in front of St. Mark's for 30 centimes; it contains all points of interest and is the best to use. Free maps of Venice at 68, at 76, and loi Piazza S. Marco. *Be sure to go to beauti- ful Lido by steame^from St. Mark's; see the bathing in the Adriatic. Fare to Lido 15 centimes. Take boat at first landing above St. Mark's. At Lido is Hot.-Rist. Margharita (i minute from boat landing); room 2 to 23^ L. Trattoria all Antico Belvedere (at boat landing); room 2 L. Walk across Lido following the car line and pay 20 centimes to enter main pavilion at end of car line; the right side at ocean front shows many charming bathers. For a delightful ocean dip walk to South along ocean front for about 5 minutes until you see the large sign "Cooperative Bagni Impiegati Civili del Regno" over the ocean front. It is for both sexes and is just beyond fine Hotel des Bains. Nice bathing suits, towels, fine clean separate rooms, costs 50 centimes for all. (Give 10 centimes to attendant.) A large Roman toga is also included. 'Go to Associazione Nationale Italiano Movimento Forestieri, at Bocca di Pizazza S. Marco, Calle larga dell Ascension. Free guides, all languages, with *free entrances each day. Take guides for all cities and in any language, as free entrances are easily understood. On Sunday (free day) you may see in this order between 10 a. m. and 2 p. m.: **The Doges Palace; **Accademia Belle Arti (a magnificent picture gallery, in which notice particularly Tintoretto's masterpiece, St. Mark releasing a condemned slave) and the Museo Civico. All are on the Grand Canal going toward railway station. The boat landing is at each entrance. So EUROPEAN GUIDE Of the great churches, S. Giorgio Maggiore is a masterpiece of Palladio, its campanile commands the finest view in the city. S. Zanipolo and the Frari are the Westminster Abbey and the Pantheon of Venice, with many rich tombs. **The Scuola di San Rocco, just back of the Frari, contains 62 grand works of Tintoretto, including the Crucifixion. **The marvellous creations of Titian should be given careful study, as this painter's art shows every possible perfection. FERRARA, with its *great castle and its many palaces, churches, monuments, etc. Good picture gallery. Hotel Stella d'Oro; room, 2 L. Hotel d'Europe, 49 Corso Giovecca (central); room, 24 L. BOLOGNA: **The fine art gallery is one of the most charming in the world, with hundreds of grand pictures, including **Raphaers St. Cecilia. Thiswas Guido Reni's home; hence the number and beauty of his works. x\lbergo- Rest. Tre Zucchette, Via dclla Canepa 2 (near Piazza Victorio Emanuele); room, 2.25 L.; good. Restaurant 13 Via Ugo Bassi; good, meals low. *Albcrgo Due Torri, 5 Via jMazzini or 3 Piazza Mercanzia (central); room, i}^ to 2 L.; popular. Hotel San Marco, 60 Via Independenza or 2 Via Mille (near station); room, 2 L.; pens., 6 L. Hotel Roma, 11 Via Azeglio (central); room, 2 L. *Xational Association at 11 Via Ugo Bassi, also at 6 Via Spaderie, free guides, etc. This city, with its leaning towers, arcades, churches, palaces, etc., is antique and attractive. RAVENNA is very ancient and richly historical; you must pay if you journey there. Hotel Spada d'Oro, Via San Marco; room, 2 L.; pension, 8 L. Hotel Byron; room, 2}4 L. Trattoria al Pelligrino, 26 Via Rattazzi; room, i}4 L- (5 minutes from station, near Piazza V. Emanuele). Al- bergo Centrale, Via Rattazzi (central) ; room, i H L- Ravenna contains many grand churches filled with mosaics, monu- ments, tombs, etc. The tomb of Galla Placidia is like a won- derful jewel. From Bologna a short trip may be made to Modena, Reggio and Parma. The Cathedral has grand frescoes. The *Picture Gallery has Coreggio's **Virgin and St. Jerome, ("The Day"), most exquisite, and his *Madonna della Scodella. Pistoia and PratO are attractive small cities, with cathedrals, campaniles, beautiful villas, and many artistic works. FLORENCE: The art centre of Europe, with magnifi- cent collections and lovely environments. The city itself EUROPEAN GUIDE 81 is not, at first sight, as atcractive as Venice or Rome, but its amazing profusion of art treasures is inexhaustible. Italian art, language, and literature emanated from here and here attained their height. Take bus at corner first street to Pizazza Signoria (centre of city, where it is far better to engage room), or follow car line past the great Duomo, a 10 minutes' walk. One minute • from Piazza Signoria is *Hotel Venezia e Piccolo Torino, 12 Via Condotta; room, ii-2 U.' good. Hotel Stella dTtalia et San Marco, 8 \'ia CalzaioU (central, near Duomo); room, ■J. L. Hotel Patrie, 6 Ditto; room, 2 L. Albergo Spagna Bon- dani, 13 Ditto; room, 2 L. Hotel Pension Bernet Parlament, :[4 Via dei Leoni (central, facing Palazzo Vecchio) ; room, 2 L.; pens., 6 L. Pens. Morini, 8 Via S. Antonio (at station); foom, 13^2 L.; pens.; 6 L. Pens. Moggi, 3 Piazza Independenza (2 minutes from station); room, 1V2 L.; pens., 6 L. Pens. Cesari, 4 Ditto; room, 1)2 L.; pens., 6 L. Pens. Norchi, 20 a Via Xationale (near station); room, i3^ L.; pens., 4,1^ L. Near Piazza Signoria is a good, plain restaurant, with best of food and wine at Via del Corso 12. Fiaschetteria L'Unione; all natives; tr>' the superb beefsteak. Large "Artistic Guide to Florence," i L. Sold on streets or at Via Porta Rossa 15. Contains catalogues of all galleries and everything of interest. **Go to Italian National Asso- ciation, Via Strozzi 2, for free guide books to Florence, Rome, Naples, etc. These books are invalualile, being up to date and giving free entrances every day to all objects of interest in each city. **Secure this guide to Florence (in any lan- guage) at once; over 50 free admissions are given by going designated days. Pay nothing for entering galleries, etc.; go the proper time. In the church of San Lorenzo see *The Chapel of the Princes and **The New Sacristy, a master- piece of Michael Angelo; free Sunday. Go at g a. m. sharp. Then to the near **Academy Belle Arti with its many fine works, including Angelo's huge David; next to the **L"ffizi gallery, the **National IMuseum in the Bargello and the **Pitti gallery (secure ticket beforehand for the Pitti gallen,'). They are all free Sunday. The Uffizi Gallery is marvel- lously rich, the Pitti Gallery'' consists of masterpieces only. Arezzo is ancient and interesting. Albergho Inghilterra, Via Cavour; room, 2 L. Cortona has a fine cathedral. Albergno Nationale; room, 2 L. Have ticket stamped Terentola if you wish to pay to wonderful old *Perugia (Hotel Brufanti; room, 2)4 L.). It is finely located and is especially worthy of a short visit. It has many churches. 82 EUROPEAN GUIDE castles, and contains one of the most poetic picture galleries in the world. Assisi is all of the 13th century. The cathedral is superbly frescoed by early ItaUan masters. Albergo Subasio, Via S. Francesco; room, 23^ L. Hotel Leone, room, i3^ L. Return to Terentola. Have ticket stamped Chiusi if you wish to pay for ancient *Siena, with its wonderful cathedral, art gallery, many palaces and noble architecture. This is the most important art city in Italy after Florence, Rome, and Venice. The cathedral is grand, with a sumptuous inte- rior; superb facade; a pulpit by Niccola Pisano and it contains many art works. *Association Italienne at Via Costarella dei Barbiere i, free guides, etc. Albergo Tre jMori (near station) ; room, 2 L.; Pension at Via della Belle Art No. 31, room, ij^ L.; pens., 5 L. "La Scala," Piaz. S. Giovanni 5; room, 2 L. Follow your route in Guide. Half an hour's ride from Chiusi is **ORVIETO (have your ticket stamped for this city surely). Take the funiculaire to the top of the mountain (30 cen- times) on which this fortress city is located. The cathedral is majestic and astonishing. Study carefully. Hotel Belle Arti (central); room, 2\^ L. This hotel gives away a map of city, with all attractions. Albergo Simoncini Guiseppi; room, 2 L.; good (near Belle Arti). Rest. Albergo Del Duomo (directly opposite cathedral); room, \},<2 L.; *meals here ver3' good; *the wine superb. The finest wines in Italy. Montefiascone wine and Orvieto wine may only be procured at or near Orvieto; they cannot be transported; per mezzo, 30 centimes. They are exquisite. ROME: Albergo Stella dTtalia, Via Principe Amedeo 97 (5 minutes from station to left); fine, big hotel; room, ii^ L.; by week, 7 L. One block away in front of hotel is Osteria del Ricciarolo, Via Principe Umberto 107; mealsvery good; prices low; the wines (vino rosso and vino bianchi), at 70 centimes per litre, are the best in Italy at price, except at Orvieto. By all means eat here; all natives. Buy fruit from vendors in street in morning, and go to Cafe-Latta Depot, 75 Via Principe Amedeo, for coffee and rolls with your fruit. The green figs and the oblong grapes (called Pizzuttello creppo, 30 centimes per kilo) are delicious. Hotel Michel, Via Torino 98; good, simple (near station). Also \'ia Principe LTmberto 61 and 63, M. Leoncini; room, i V^ L. (near station). Albergo del Sole, Piaz. del Pantheon 63 (central) ; room, 2 L. Fischer's Hotel Alibert, Vicole d'Alibert; room, 2 L.; pension, 7 L.; good. Hotel-Pens. Alexandra, 18 Via Veneto; room, 2j^ L. Hotel Nuovo Pvoma, Via Principe Umberto i: room, EUROPEAN GUIDE 83 2j^ L. Hotel Liguria, 23 Via Cavour (near station); room, 2}'2 L. Gambrinus Hall, Corso Umberto i, No. 392, meals and Pschorrbrau and Pilsener beers. Hotel Torino, 8 Via Prin- cipe Amedeo (near station); room, 2 L. Hotel Genova, 11 B, Ditto; moderate. Hotel Posta, Piazzo S. Silvestro (near main Post Office, central); moderate. Large artistic "Guide to Rome and Environs," by Prof. F. Sabatini, is good; i L. **Fine free ''Guide to Rome," Corso Umberto i, Nos. 372-373, Associatione Nationale Italiani, gives free entrances for each day and is up to date. **Over fifty free admissions are given. Map, etc.; get this surely. At the *Trevi fountain line free concerts every evening by great band of seventy performers (see daily papers, which are easily understood). Go to St. Peters at 9 a. m. and hear the magnificent singing in chapel to left of entrance. Write to Hotel Continental, Naples, for free "puidc to Naples," complete, with prices for all trips. Your circular ticket allows a return to Rome, so Tuesday or early Wednesday is the best time to leave for Naples, as* Thursday only is free day at Pompeii; on all other days 3 L. admission is charged. Excursion from Naples, 3 L. on Thursdays only. NAPLES : Albergo del Trionfo, Strada Rettililo 61 (op- posite new university; central); room, i^ L. Imperial Restaurant, Strada Rettifilo 71; fair. Hotel du Nord (op- posite); good, low. .\lbergo Nuova Roma, 13 Via Medina (central); room, iH L. Pension Francaise, 3 Via Partenope; room, iM L. Hotel Cavour, Piazza Garibaldi gia Ferrovia (at station); room, 2V2 L.; good. Hotel de Naples, Corso L mberto i ; moderate. Hotel de Milan, Piazza del Municipo, moderate. The **National Museum has a magnificent art collection. On leaving it take the tram car to the Corso Vit- torio Emanuele, one of the most beautiful rides in Europe. Get large, illustrated Pagliari's "Handbook of Naples " no pages, free, from Pagliari, Santa Lucia 57. **Guide for free entrance each day. Via San Carlo 14-15. *Thursdav is free day at Pompeiii, (other davs admission is 3 L.). Railway ex- cursion Thursday, 3 L.; take lunch. If you stay at Pompeii, Hotel Schweitzerhof; room, ii^ L.; good. The island of Ischia IS irresistably lovely with its roses, oranges, and night- ii^ales in profusion. Sorrento, Amalfi, Salerno and *Ravello are all beautiful. Isle of Capri is very famous. Return steamer tickets, good three months, 12 L. _ SICILY is magnificent. You may buy Series 10 Biglietto di Abonnamento Special! (see railway guide), at Naples, for 15 days' unUmited travel by Pompeii, Salerno, Batti- 84 EUROPEAN GUIDE paglia, Pesto (Paestum, with its grand temples), to Villa San Giovanni or Reggio, and return for 30 L. Also for 27 L. additional Series 13, covering all Sicily, for 7 days, may be bought at Villa San Giovanni, Reggio, or Messina. Combine these, and they give 12 days in Sicily by making exquisite Taoimina or Catania your last stop and pay- ing to Messina. You may also buy an abonnement ticket around island for 10 L. with eight stopovers. It is a green book, and you must sign name at each station with next destination. They then allow 75% discount off every station ticket. This may be bought in Naples at railway station and is called a "tessera." You then secure 50% reduction on all boat passages also. If in Rome, Series 20 gives 15 days' unlimited travel to Naples, Salerno and Reggio (op- posite Messina) for 30 L. Combine with Series 13 (7 days, 27 L.) or Series 19 (7 days, 30 L.) for all Sicily. Turning North from Naples, stop at Caserta, an antique old city, and see real Italy. The Royal Palace is of enormous size and great beauty. Stop at Rome and **PISA: A short walk from the station takes you. to the *Duomo, richly adorned, the *Baptistery with Niccola Pisano's pulpit, the Campo Santo and the **Campanile or Leaning Tower. Ascend tliis for fine view. Hotel Minerva (at station); room, 3 L. Hotel Nettuno, Lung Arno Regie (5 minutes from station) ; room, 3 L. Hotel de la Ville; room, 2 L. You are now entering lovely coast scenery, so travel slowly. From Pisa pay for trip to Leghorn (Livorno), and take electric road by the southern shore's beautiful coast. Hotel Angleterre, Corso Vittorio Eman. 30; room, 2H L. Return to Pisa. Pay for trip to *LUCCA, a charming city; the cathedral is noble and in- teresting, w^ith wonderful inland front. Hotel Corona, Via Nationale; room, 2 Fr. (near station). Hotel Campana, Via Nationale; room, i}4 to 2 Fr. (both near Piazza Napoleone); return to Pisa. MASSA is prettily situated among mountains. Have ticket stamped Avenza and pay for trip to *Carrara, a city of beautiful white marble. See the art gallery and quar- ries. Then on to SPEZIA: Trattoria Monticatini, Via Genova 3; room, ii-i L. (near station); meals low. Hotel dTtalie; low. Albergo Nationale; room. 2 L. You are now in the Riviera di Levante ; beautiful towns, magnificent views, grand sea. The following are very lovely: Levanto, *Sestri Levante, Lavagna, *Pegli, *Chiavari, Zoagli, *Rapallo, EUROPEAN GUIDE 85 Santa Margherita, Recco, *Nervi (most beautiful), Quinto, Sturla. GENOA: Albergo-Gasthaus Federal Piccolo Torino, Salita S. Siro 2 (Rimpetto la Chiesa S. Siro); Piazza Fossa- tello (central); room, iH L.; meals fair. Restorante dell Olivo, Via Balbi 15 ; good; low. Albergo Firenze Schweizerhof, Via Carlo Alberto 31 (near station); room, 2 L. Hotel Royal Aquila (near station) ; room, 2 L. Hotel Liguria et Simplon, 26 Via Balbi (near Gare Centrale); room, 2 L.; large. Genoa has many palaces, with collections. Fine views from the heights. **Guide for free entrances each day at Piazza de Ferrari at Teatro Carlo Felice. *See the cemetery (Campo Santo 8 to 6). Go to old railway station for Turin. Asti has fine wines. TURIN : *Albergo Ristorante del Re dTtalia, Via Andrea Doria 6 (near station); room, il4 L.; meals good, low; recom- mended. Hotel du Nord, 34 Via Roma (near station); room, 2}^i L. Hotel-Rest, della Zecca, 36 Ditto; room, 2 L.; pens., 6 L, Alb. Persico Reale, 26 Via Lagrange (2 minutes from station); room, ij4 L. Alb. -Rest. d'Oriente, 43 Ditto; room, 2 L. *The picture gallery contains many fine works, as does the Civic Museum. The Association "Pro Torino," Via Rome 28; Galleria Nazionale, scala b, gives free guides and information. Take left side for fine view of Alps to Novara, an interesting and attractive native Italian city. MILAN: Here abonnement ends. Pay to magnificent **Certosa di Pavia if you wish to see the richest monastery in the world; the interior has many pictures; the facade is the decorative masterpiece of all Italy. PAVIA: A fine little city. Hotel Croce Bianca, Via Mazzina, "Tre Re"; room, ij^ L. Albergo Tre Gigli (cen- tral); room, i^^ L. From GENOA you may visit the many towns of the French Riviera de Ponente. To complete the circular return tour to the North, Milan to Descenzano, then tour **Lake Garda to Riva (see before). AUSTRIAN TYROL For your Austrian and Tyrolean railway guide use **Wim- mer's Fahrplan, 50 heller. It is fine for all Austria, with maps, boats, train time, etc. From Riva to Mori and TRENT : Alb.-Rist. alia Citta di Venezia, 35 Via Rodolfo Bebenzani (corner Via Lunga, 3 minutes from station); 86 EUROPEAN GUIDE room, 2 Kr.; good. Albergo San Marco; room, iVz Kr. Hotel Europa, 3O Ma Lunga (2 minutes from station; at end of Via Romana); room, 21-2 Kr. Notice the heaping barrows of dried muslirooms in the market place. BOZEN-GRIES, beautifulb' located, is popular with the Germans; its arcaded streets are verj- Italian in character. Gasthof Figl, 9 Korn Platz (central); room, 1I-2 to 2 Kr.; good. Gasthof Weissen Kreuz, 3 Ditto; room, i}^ to 2 Kr. Krautner's Hotel de I'Europe, 7 Ditto, room, 2 Kr.; good, A trip over the high, romantic Mendel Pass is very popular; return ticket, 6.40 Kr. **INNSBRUCK, a picturesque little city with superb surroundings. *(iasthof Goldene Rose, 39 Herzog Friedrich- strasse; room, 1.40 Kr.; central, plain, and popular; good meals. Gasthof zum Weissen Kreuz, 31 Ditto; room, 1.60 Kr. New, prettv. Gasthof Gold. Hirsch, 9 Seider Gasse (central); room, 1.40 Kr. Gasthof Gold. Lowen, 4 Kiebach Gasse (near '"house with golden roof"); room, 1.40 Kr. Hotel (iold. Adler, i Kiebach Gasse; room, 2 to 2]^ Kr.; large, central. Gasthaus zur Brucke, 2 Pradler Str. (5 min- utes to 1. of station, at edge of river with fine view); room, I Kr.; simple. Gast. W'eisser Hahn, 3 Sill Gasse (3 min- utes from station); room, 1.40 Kr.; new. You may take the electric car to quaint, antique Hall or to *Iglys with its lively casino. The great bronze statues in the Franziskanerkirsche (especially King Arthur, by Peter Vischer) are wonderful. The carving on the white marble tomb of Maximilian is exquisite. Berg Tsel and the Hungerberg give fine views. At Jenbach, a short distance from Innsbruck, is the pretty, deen blue *.\chensee, surrounded by high peaks. This lake is the largest and most attractive in the Tyrol. You are now entering beautiful Bavaria, one of the most interesting countries on your tour. GERMANY (BAVARIA) Take risrht side of train to *Kufstein, Rosenheim, and _**MUNICH: This is a superb city; one cannot help ad- miring it; artistically it is in the very front rank. The great art gallery is exceedingly rich; it contains Titian's noble "Christ Crowned with Thorns" and **ninety works of Ru- liens, showing his genius in every form. *Hotel Grosser Rosengarten, 8 Baj'erstr. (i minute opposite station) or ^ Schiitzenstr.; room, 1.60 Mk.; good; large, fine restaurant. *Hotel Griiner Hof, 35 Bayerstr. (i minute from station; EUROPEAN GUIDE 87 opposite Sud. entrance); room, 2 INIk.; large, good. Hotel Fraukischer Hof, 2 Senefelderstr, (i minute from station); room, 13/2 Mk.; pens., 4>4 Mk.; good. Hotel Post, 45 Bayerstr. (i minute from station; opposite Post Office); room, 1 3^ to 2 JNIk. Large Automat on first floor with all foods and drinks. Hotel Wittelsbach, Bayerstr. (opposite Sud. exit station); room, i>^ to 2 Mk. Gasthof zur Bayer- isclien Krone, 10 Schiitzenstr.; room, 2 to 2j^ Mk. Gasthof Leopoldstadt, 11 '2 Senefelderstr. (i minute from station); room, i>2 ^Ik. Hot. Frankfurter Hof, 49 Schillerstr. (i min- ute from station); room, 2 Mk. Hot. Hubertus, 47 Ditto; room, 2 Mk. Hotel 3 Lowen, 44 Ditto; room, 1.20 Mk. Bartel's Hotel, 41 Ditto; room, 2 Mk. Gasthof Krokodil, 40 Ditto; room, 2 Mk. *Bavaria Automat, 13 Bayerstrasse, is fine and large. Free information office (Fremdenverkehrs- verein) at Central Railway Station, i Arnulfstr. "Twelve days in Munich,'' 20 Pf. is very good; map, etc. *A "Pharus Plan jNIunchen"' (50 Pf.) gives every detail, with fine map, etc. In the arcaded cemetery (.Mter Siidlich Friedhof near Sendlinger Thor) see many dead persons under glass cases (a city law to prevent premature burial). Go to the busy market at Mariahilfer Kirche over the Tsar to the South and stop at the Franziskaner Leistbrau Kellar on the hill to the Northeast. Walk down the hill toward the Isar, cross the small bridge and find yourself in a wonderful little city of clean, antique, toy houses. This is called Paulaner Platz and it is one of the most remarkable specimens of pretty antiquity in Europe. The great beer halls are famous: the Hofbrauhaus fnear the Rathaus) is well worth seeine. The Fest Saal, up stairs, is ver>' large; the natives usually occupy the lower floor. Do likewise, as the beer is fresher; serve yourself. The Mathaser Bier Hall (5 Bayerstr., central) is very popular. *Pay nothing to enter beer halls-. AH serve good meals at low prices at any hour. You may buy the elaborate bills of fare (Speise kart) for 10 Pf . each for souvenirs. You may also bring in lunch with you if you wish; many do so. All beers cost about 26 Pf. per litre. *The Jurj'frei picture exhibit (Sunday mornings only 30 Pf.) is unconventional and worth seeing. INGOLSTADT is interesting, as it contains much fine wood architecture. Take tram car; the main city is one- half hour's walk from station. Gasthaus zur Rose, 15 Donau Str. (just over Danube bridge); room, iH Mk. Hotel-Rest. Wittelsbacherhof, 14 Donaustr. (central); room, 2 Mk.; 88 EUROPEAN GUIDE large. Gasthaus zum Deutschen Haus, 6 Donaustr.; room, iVo to 2 Mk.; good. Hotel :\Iunchner Hot", 41 Munchner Str. (10 minutes from station on car line); room, iL, Mk. Gasthaus Edelweiss, 22,1^ Ditto; room, i to i>i AIk.;'good* new. Nearly every house in this city has an elaborately carved wooden front. Take car to Saal only, then local train to Kelheim for the great "Hall of Liberation," only a few minutes' ride. Both this and "Walhalla"' are grand monumental works; *Sch\vanthaler's genius is embodied in both. REGENSBURG (Ratisbon) is perhaps the most ancient city in Germany. It is very antique (Nuremberg is entirely modern compared with it), its aspect from the bridge crossing the Danube is remarkably medieval. The people are primi- tive, oxen are almost universally used as beasts of burden, and geese in enormous numbers whiten the green fields. It is the finest city of the early German Gothic, as is Nuremberg of the later German Gothic, and Augsburg of the German Renaissance. It is the second most important city archi- tecturally in Germany, being to the Danubian architecture what Cologne is to the Rhine. *It has a famous cathedral and twenty churches. The cathedral interior is most impressive, the *West front grand (by many claimed to be the most magnificent in Germany), its two great towers are noble, it contains much beautiful old stained gllass and it has very extensive cloisters which do not join the church. Hotel Weidenhof, 21 Maximilian Str. (3 minutes from station); room, i?2 ^Ik. Hotel Maximilian, 28 Maximilian Str. (3 minutes from station); room, 1.80 Mk. Hotel National, 26 Maximilian Str.; room, 2 Mk.; large. Gasthof Gold. Stem, 9 Maximilian Str.; room, 2 Mk. The immense fresco of David and Goliath, covering the building on Goliath Str. facing Bruckstr. Cat clock tower near bridge), is a wonderful piece of work. At 3 Krautcrmarkt. (i minute to left cathedral) the great Bischofshof Brauerie produces a famous dark beer which the natives claim excels that of Munich. It is very fine and costs 26 Pf. per litre. The Jesuit- enbrauerie, Obermiinsterplatz (to left of station), is also very famous. **Go to "Walhalla" surely. It is open 9 to 12.30 and 2 to 7 and is free. *Do not miss seeing this grand temple erected by Ludwig I. at a cost of 14,000.000 florins (£1,200,000). The building itself is an exact duplicate of the *Parthenon at Athens when perfect; this may further interest you. **Rauch's six Victories are exquisite. Bavaria is greatly indebted to EUROPEAN GUIDE 89 her good King Ludwig I. for her artistic pre-eminence. His entire life and fortune was devoted to the weh'are and happiness of his subjects, and this country seems to be artistically and scenically a land of beauty. NUREMBERG (Nurnberg): *Gasthof Pilhofer, 78 Konigstrasse (i minute from station); room, 11-2 Mk.; meals low, good. Rheinischer Hof, 81 Konigstr.; room, i]4 Mk. Nijrnberger Hof, 71 Konigstr.; room., 1}^ Mk. Stauffer's Hotel garni, 13 Bahnhofstr. (2 minutes from railway station); room, ii^ Mk. Bahnhof Hotel, 5 Eilgutstr. (i minute to 1. of station); room, 1.20 Mk.; good, large. Plant's Hotel, 7 Hallplatz (opposite 55 Konigstr., 2 minutes from station); room, iV^ Mk. Hotel Herzog Max, 63 Konigstr.; room, ly^ Mk. Hotel Weisser Lowe, 28 Konigstr.; room, i Mk. Karoline Automat, 9 Karoline str. (central); new, good. Luitpold Automat, 70 Konigstr.; fine. Next to St. Moritz chapel (central) is Bratwurst-Glocklein. The little sausages and kraut are famous; the Heldbrau beer excellent; many artists and travelers here. Impossible as it may seem, the consumption of beer per capita in Nuremberg exceeds that of Munich. The Fischkuche Luftsprung, 10 Untere Burgauer- platz (on the bank of the river, near the big Synagogue, corner of Nonnengasse just back of Lorenz kirche), serves the best fish and the celebrated *Tucher beer at low prices. It is crowded at night; so go early, as it is very popular with the natives. **The great German National Museum (free Sundays, 10 to 2 only) is a wonderful institution; see it surely. *Frem- denverkehrsverein in central station (Schenker's office); fine large map of city with all attractions free. Bamberg is ancient and beautifully situated. Hotel National (2 minutes from station) ; room, 2 Mk. Hotel Drei Kronen (central); room, 2 Mk. The cathedral is the noblest example of .early Romanesque in Bavaria; the interior is rich in carving and sculpture; no building in the -yvhole land is so filled with monuments. Wurzburg : Hotel Frankischer Hof (near station) ; room, 1.25 Mk. Hotel Kaiserhof (at station); room, 1.50 Mk. This city is very picturesque and reminds one of Florence. It has a cathedral and 21 churches. ROTHENBURG ON TAUBER: (Change cars at Steinach and take branch railway.) "A gem of the middle ages, with a wealth of architectural beauty in its picturesque medieval streets. An old feudal town, with walls, gateways, bastions, and towers; an ancient fortress of the fourteenth go EUROPEAN GUIDE century, with enchanting views from its perfectly preserved walls." Gasthof zum Markusturm (central); room, 1.20 Mk. Hotel zum Baren (central); rooms low; pension. Continue on branch line to Dombuhl, where change cars and through Crailsheim to XJLM : \'ery ancient and beautifully situated, with many antique houses on its crooked streets. *See grand cathedral, the last of the German Gotliic edifices (1377 A. D.). Vast, majestic, with a great spire, 529 feet high. Bahnhof Hotel (opposite station); room, ijo ^Ik. Aliinster Hotel (at station); room, 2 ]Mk. Hotel ziun Goldenen Lowen (near station); room, i^i Mk. AUGSBURG: A rich old city; the Fuggerhaus is very interesting. Bahnhof Hotel Victoria (opposite station); room, 1.50 Mk. Zum Weissen Lamm (5 minutes from station); room, 2 Mk.; pension, 6I2 Mk. Hotel-Restaurant Three Crowns, 17 Balinhofstr. (i minute from station); room, 2 Alk.; good. Hotel ^Nlerkur, A 4 Moritz Platz; room, 1.20 to 1.50 ^Ik.; good. Kaiser Automat, C 5 Untere Maximilian Str. (central). Return to MUNICH: Be sure to plan your trip so as to include lo\-ely **Salzburg; the **Salzkamniergut (one of the most enchanting regions in Europe and fortunatelj' of small size, so that its mountains and lakes form an uninterrupted pano- rama of enchanting beauty); Linz and down the mighty and picturesque *Danube to the most stately capital of Europe, magnificent **\'ienna. Its splendid architecture, noble art works, properly exhibited in **superb galleries (by far the most impressive modern buildings on the conti- nent, designed especially for exhibition purposes) ; great parks; palaces; fine music and the vivacity of the populace produce an overwh(>]ming impression. ROSENHEIM: A fine avenue of trees leads to the city, which contains many arcades in Italian style. Reuter's Hotel Wendelstein, 6 Bahnhofstr. (2 minutes from station); room. 2 to 2'^ Mk.; large. Thalberg's Gasthof, 8 Bahnhofstr.; room, 2 Mk.; good. Gasthaus zum Gold. Hirsch, 38 Munchen Str. (3 minutes from station); room, i]4 Mk. You may stop at PRIEN, Bahnhof Hotel (at station); room, I ]Mk. Gasthof Joseph Mayer (at station); room, i to ii^ ]Mk. Hotel Chiemsee (at station); room, 1.20 Mk. King Ludu-ig's Schloss Herrenchiemsee is beautifully situated in the midst of the lake. The trip from Prien to Stock and return, 30 Pf.. and boat trip, 85 Pf., is attractive. Admission to the castle is 3 Mk. EUROPEAN GUIDE 91 AUSTRIA SALZBURG: (Humboldt said, "I consider the surround- ings of Salzburg, Naples, and Constantinople the most beauti- ful in the world.") This city was the birthplace of Mozart; perhaps in honor of this event the services in the Cathedral are exceedingly grand; the organ is one of the largest in Austria. Few hotels near the station; take car line or walk in ten minutes to centre of city. There are many hotels on the car Hne near the large bridge. J. Kohler's Hotel, 2 Dreifaltigkeit Gasse (on car line, i minute from bridge); room, 2.30 Kr.; large, good. Gasthof Munchner Hof, 5 Dreifaltigkeit Gasse; room, i Kr. up. Gasthof zum Weissen Adier, 14 Bergstr. (near bridge, 10 minutes from station on car hne); room, i to 1.80 Kr.; good, plain. Gasthof "Alt- deutsches" or Romischen Kaiser, 24 Bergstr.; room, i}4 to 2 Kr. Gasthaus zum Schwartzen Rossi, 4 Bergstr.; room, 2 Kr. Hotel Traube, 5 Linzerstr. (at bridge); room, 2 Kr.; large, new. Gasthaus zum Burgerbrau, 17 Linzerstr.; room, i}4 Kr. *The Salzkammergut retains its old original manners, customs, architecture, and costumes to a remarkable degree; it is the most lovable of all regions and the one which lingers longest in the memory. *This district has every possible attraction without a single detracting feature. The Austrians are noted for their excellent cooking, the wines are good (in some cases famous), and the charges are very moderate. In Salzburg go to the *Stiftskellerei, St. Peters, the popular eating resort of the natives, it is by St. Peter's church, over the river at the foot of the path to the *castle heights. The meals are fine and low priced, the local wines excellent. A single ticket costs 2.10 Kr. by electric train or *railway amidst grand scenerv to **BERCHTESGADEN: Most exquisitely located. (Hotel Wittelsbach; room, 2.50 Kr. Hotel Krone; room, 2.50 Kr. Watzmann Hotel-Pension; room, 1.50 Kr.), and to **Konigssee (Gasth. zum Konigssee, at boat landing; room, 1.50 Mk. Hotel Schiffmeister, at boat landing; room, 1.50 Mk.) **The Konigssee is one of the most enchanting lakes in the world. From the middle of the lake the surroundings are of awful grandeur. A gunshot from here echoes and re-echoes with the crash and roar of thunder. Great mountains a mile high ascend perpendicularly from the shores, and above it 92 EUROPEAN GUIDE lies the little remote, beautiful Obersee, with its lovely water- fall a thousand feet high. The excursion round the lake takes five hours and costs i^o Mk. A visit to the salt mines at Berchtesgaden is verv interesting. BAD REIC HEN HALL (Hotels Post, Krone, and Ba- varia, all moderate) is very near and is delightfully situated. When in Salzburg secure a free copy of "Salzburg, the Pearl of the Austrian Alps," 70 pages, at Fremdenverkehrs- verein, 7 Schwartzstrasse (central); free books, maps, etc. (also at Ludwig Viktorplatz 7). 15- and 30-day Salzkammer- gut abonnements may be bought here. Group i or *Group I a (almost reaching Innsbruck), 15 days' unlimited travel costs 26 Kr. for third class; also Fixe Salzkammergut- Rundreise (fixed circular tours) from Salzburg for from 8.70 Kr. up. Ask to see "Handbuch der K. K. Osterreichischen Staats- bahnen" at office. Look carefully over sections 6 and 7. (At office Austrian State Railways, I. Wallfischgasse 15, Vienna, you may get free guide books and list of 15- and 30-day abonnements.) A complete tour of the Salzkammergut without special ticket may be made for about 15 Kr. Baggage may be for- warded to Lambach from Salzburg (or vice versa) for i Kr. and will be held until called for. You are then free to travel with small markt tasche or hand-bag; by far the best plan. MONDSEE: A clean, nice little city swept by cool lake breezes and approached by a grand avenue of trees. Hotel Goldenen Krone, 148 Salzburger Str. (3 minutes from boat landing on main street); room, 2 Kr.; good. Roller's Gast- haus zum Stern, 146 Salzburger Str.; room, 1.60 Kr. Gasthof zum Xeuen Post, 142 Salzburger Str.; room, 1.60 Kr.; good. Gasthof zur Blauen Traube, 127 Salzburger Str.; room, 2 Kr.; good. Gasthof zum Schwartzen Adler, 114 Westbahn Str. (3 minutes from boat landing); room, 2 Kr. Gasthof zur Post, No. Ill Westbahn Str.; room, 1.20 Kr. Gasthof Koflerbrau, 18 Westbahn Str.; room, 1.20 Kr. Old, pretty, clean, nice. ^ By boat or train to Scharfling (from here the Atter or Kammersee may be visited by v.-ay of See, by electric road to *Unterach and boat to Burgau and Weissenbach). The most attractive portion of the lake is that lying at the foot of the high Schafberg with its massed mountains. By train to St, Gilgen, Leug, and St. Wolfgang; the *Schafberg may be reached from here. Owing to its grand central location and its height, 1780 metres, the view compares with that from the EUROPEAN GUIDE 93 Rigi; it is most extensive and very beautiful. It is easily climbed without guide. Ascent by funiculaire costs 6.30 Kr.; round trip, g.50 Kr. STROBL: Gasthaus zum Landauer in Geschwindt, on lake front; also Hotel Am_ See, at boat landing; room, 2 Kr. ISCHL : A lovely little city and the Summer home of the Emperor, lies on the swift Traun River, entirely surrounded by the Alps. Gasthof zum Baierischer Hof, 3 Franz Karl Platz (2 minutes from station; central; opposite fountain at bridge); room, 2.20 Kr.; large, good. Gast. zum Goldenen Ochsen, 4 Grazer Str. (corner Traun Quai, at bridge) ; room, 1.80 Kr.; clean, good. Hotel Schwartzer Adler, 10 Grazer Str.; room, 2.20 Kr.; large, fine. Gasthaus zur Goldenen Traube, 20 Grazer Str. (i minute over bridge); room 1.30 Kr.; quiet, nice. Gasthaus zum Gold. Anker, 22 Grazer Str.; room, i>^ Kr. Gasthaus zur Sonne, 28 Grazer Str.; room i>^ to 2 Kr.; plain, nice. Gasthaus zu den Drei Mohren, 32 Grazer Str.; room, i^i to 2 Kr. All through the Salzkammergut the striking native cos- tumes of the men and women seem very novel and attractive to strangers. Hallstatter See (lake) is very pretty and Hallstatt pic- turesque from a distance. It is hardly worth a visit unless a long journey to the Gosauseen (high mountain lakes) is con- templated. These lakes are, however, only slightly inferior in loveliness to the Konigsee. The small lake trip to and from Hallstatt costs i Kr. HALLSTATT: Gasthof Seemonihieter; room, 2 Kr. Hotel Keintz (facing boat landing); room. 2,^ Kr. Gasthaus zum Grunen Baum (to left boat landing); room, 1.80 Kr. *AUSSEE: "The pearl of Styria" is a fine mountain village in the midst of lakes. The station is one mile from the village; twenty minutes easy walk plainly marked. Hotel zum Wilden Mann, 70 Ischler Str. (central); room, 1.50 Kr.; large, good. Gasthof zum Tourisi;en, opposite 34 Grundl- seer Str. (central); room, 1.20 Kr.; good, popular. Gast. zum Lamm, 36 Meran Platz; room, i}4 Kr.; plain. Gasthof zum Weissen Rossi, Parkgasse; room, 1I4 Kr.; plain. Gast- haus zur Fzm. Beck Brijcke, Bahnhofstr.; room, i Kr. Gasthof zur Sonne, 150 Hauptstr.; room, 2 Kr.; good. Fine walks to Altaussee and to the Grundl See, Tophtz See, and Kammer See, a splendid chain of lakes. Return from .Aussee through Ischl, and at Ebensee, at the head of the Traunsee or Gmundenersee, take boat (40 heller) to 94 EUROPEAN GUIDE *TRAUNKIRCHEN : Grandly located on the lake front. There is a *fine outlook from Burgstaller's Gasthaus (up the hillj ; room, i.So Kr.; good meals. About fifty feet below here take the old flight of steps leading to fountain and chapel on heights for fine view of city, lake, and mountains. GMUNDEN: A vigorous, pretty town with many at- tractions; is full of life and animation. The Lam.bach (Seebahnhof) railway station lies over the bridge to the right. *Hotel Mucha, i8 Schiffslande, adjoins it. (See signs pointing way at end of Kaiser Joseph Jubilaum Park at bridge.) Room, 2 Kr. Finely located on edge of lake, restaurant, very moderate prices; recommended. Gasthof zum Goldenen Hirsch, 4 Linzerstr. (just over bridge); room, 2 Kr. Hotel Goldenen Brunnen, 10 Traun Gasse (near bridge overlooking river); room, 2 Kr. Hotel .Stadt Frank- furt, 8 Traun Gasse; room, 2 Kr. Take train at Seebahnhof station to Lambach and to LINZ: Stop here to take the Danube boat to Vienna. *Harreisser"s Gasthof zur Westbahn, 2 Feld Str. (3 minutes from station at side of car line); room, 1.60 and 1.80 Kr. Clean,^ nice; large garden with good restaurant. Gasthof Drei Kronen, 67 Landstr. (opposite above on car Une): room, 2 Kr. Hotel Stadt Wien, 34 Volksgarten Str. (i minute from station); room, 2 Kr. *Hotel zu Drei Mohren, 17 Promenade (central, 5 minutes from boat landing); room. 1.60 Kr.; good, large. Fremdenverkehrsverein, Franz Josef's Platz, 34. From Linz to Vienna the boat fares arc first class, Q.40 Kr.; second class, 5 . 20 Kr . ; third class, 3 .60 Kr. *By all means buy third class. First class goes to the back of the boat; second class sits up on the top deck without shelter; in hot weather they are sun baked; in wet weather they are rain soaked. Third class, of course, has the comfortable front lower deck, shady, sheltered, covered, and with grand view. Go early, take left side in front, and take lunch with you. The scenery is rich and majestic; far finer than the Rhine. At 6 p. m. the Prater Quai in Vienna is reached. VIENNA (Wien, alwaj-s pronounced w-een): Take car at bridge, under which you have just passed, going to Nord- bahnhof, where check bag. *Hotel Mattes, II, Kleine Stadtgutgasse 14 (i minute to 1. of station); room, 2.60 Kr. Fine, larsre; recommended. It is just at the Prater (the peo- ple's park with_ music, etc.) and the large Tegetthoff monu- ment; a good, lively location. Vienna is divided into 21 dis- tricts. Number i is the centre; from St. Stephen's cathedral, bounded by the Ring (old walls now demolished) and the EUROPEAN GUIDE 95 canal. Numbers 2 to 9 are around the centre; 10 to 21, outlying. The district is given first in every address. Hotel zur Weintraube, II, Weintraubgasse 14; room, 2.60 Kr. (5 minutes from station; back of large church "Johann Nepomuk," 45 Prater Str.). Prater Str. and over the bridge, Rothenthurm Str. lead straight to St. Stephen's cathedral. Bus marked Prater-Nordbahn runs from Tegetthoff monu- ment to St. Stephen's. Go at once to Fremdenverkehrsverein, I, Kartnerstr. 34, for free *"Guide to Vienna," 128 pages, fine map. (It is near St. Stephen's), or go to I. Grabenhof, Braunerstr. 2 (central). Also get "Entertainments and Sights in Vienna," 10 pages, a good, condensed list of all attractions with free entrances, etc. Hotel Moskau, 4 Kleine Stadtgutgasse (2 minutes from Nordbahn); room, 3 Kr. Hotel Athenes, 36 Prater Str. (5 minutes from station); room, 3 Kr. Nowak's Cafe, 16 Kleine Stadtgutgasse; fine Vienna coffee, light in color and creamy, 16 heller a glass. If you wish darker, stronger coffee, say "braun." Good restaurant at 20 Kleine Stadtgutgasse, or Nordbahnstr. 52; very popular with the natives. The gulyas (goulash) at 50 and 60 heller is very good. The lager beer here (24 heller) is better than the Pilsen (30 heller). Hotel Nordbahn, 72 Prater Str.; room, 3 Kr.; large. Plain Automat at 48 Prater Str. Many railway stations centre in Vienna. The Nordwest Bahnhof is a short distance from the Nordbahnhof; many hotels near here. Hotel Baierischer Hof., 39 Tabor Str. (10 minutes from Nordbahnhof); room, 2 Kr. up; large, fine. Hotel Stephanie, 10 Tabor Str.; room, 3.40 Kr.; large. Hotel Central, 10 Tabor Str.; room, 3.30 Kr. Hotel Donau, 49 Tabor Str.; room, 3 Kr. x\utomat at 48 Tabor Str. (The green bus runs from here to St. Stephen's.) Hotel Nordwestbahn, 74 Tabor Str. (opposite Nordwest- bahn); room, 2 Kr. up. The Westbahnhof district 15, some distance beyond the great Art Gallery (easily reached by elec- tric car or-bus) has good, low-priced hotels near it. Hotel Holzwarth, 156 Mariahilferstr.; room, 1.60 Kr.; large, good. Hotel Fuchs nearer station; Hotel Westbahnhof (opposite station), both moderate priced. Hotel Westbahn (opposite station); room, 1.60 Kr. Savoy Hotel, 81 Mariahilferstr.; room, 2 Kr. Large Automat at 57 Weidner Hauptstrasse (opposite the Grand Opera House on the Ring); near here is Hotel Goldenes Lamm, 7 Wiedner Hauptstr. (central); room, 2.60 Kr.; also Hotel Weiss Kreuz, 6 Millockergasse; room, 2 Kr. Fine Automats at Nos. 3 and 6 (corner), Rothenthurm Str, 96 EUROPE.\X GUIDE (i minute from St. Stephen's). *The Modern Gallery, III, Rennweg (Belvedere), has a small but rare collection of re- markable pictures by Hans Markart; BockUn and his modern disciple *Max Klinger. Well worth seeing. Free Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday lo to 4, Sunday 9 to i. **The "Kunsthistorische" Museum, I, Burgring 5. "After -Rome and Florence, Vienna is probably the richest city of the world in pictures." So writes Prof. Deutinger of Munich, and probably correctly. The wealth of this gallery is marvellous, the impression produced overwhelming. (Free Sunday, Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, 9 to 2 only.) Cabinet 18 contains a treasury of the Northern primitives: Memlinc; van der Weyden; Jan van Eyck, Gerard David, and Hugo van der Goes. Twenty-one pictures are contained in this room; 17 miniature masterpieces, 2 copies, 2 ordinary'. **The Museum below (on first lloor) is a fitting complement of the mighty gallery; the greatest treasures of gems, ivories, carvings, armor, and everj' kind of articles of virtu are shown in profusion. **The "Naturhistorische" Museum (opposite), Burgring 7, is elegantly housed, the walls beautifully decorated. In Saal (room) 3, the magnificent Edelweiss Spray or Bouquet of ^Nlaria Theresa is composed of wonderful rubies, emeralds, amethysts, diamonds, etc., and is of great interest. It faces the middle window and is only a few feet from it. **The Schatzkammer (Royal Treasury), in the Hofburg (King's Palace), is of astounding value and beauty. Jewels and gems riot in gorgeous profusion. Entire faces of cabinets are given to one gem, such as rubies; other faces of cabinets to emeralds, others to diamonds, etc. The cradle of Napo- leon's son (Duke of Reichstadt) is a great attraction. Free admission may be secured by applying beforehand; but on Thursdays the charge is i Kr. *Do not miss this wonderful collection. The ** Arsenal. X. is very fine. The magnificent entrance hall, crowded with statues of Austrian heroes, the wall paintings, and the vast armories are remarkably interest- ing. In the hall to right, middle case, forty feet from en- trance, see Duke of Reichstadt's sword, paint box. etc. **The Lichtenstein Gallery of paintings is very choiceand is palatiallv housed. Open daily except Saturdays. It is free. Do not miss this gallen.-. *The Grand St. Stephen's cathedral is ancient and rich. *At i Haarhof (in the Graben, central, 5 minutes from St. Stephen's) is Furstlich Esterhazyicher Weinkeller. It is kept ver>' dingy, so the poor will go there. The Prince's grand wines are sold here at very low prices EUROPEAN OUIDE y7 (72 heller per litre up). 20 heller is deposited for glass or flask, which is subsequently returned. AH wines are sweet, fineb' flavored, and strong. *The Budasconyer alt is the best value for the money. Do not drink over 34 litre (all glasses are 3^ litre), or you will feel it. Ask for "ein Weinpreise," with a list of all wines sold, with prices. You may take any lunch in with you. **Schonbrunn Palace and grounds are verj' interesting. *The Votive Church is of great beauty. The city of Vienna is the most delightful in Europe. It has a thousand attrac- tions, rich, rare, quaint and astonishing. You have not seen Europe if you have not seen Vienna. Moritz Schwartz (znm Taschen Konig), 8 Tabor Str., has the lowest-priced and finest leather goods. At No. 4 Tabor Str. fine leather goods at low prices. Budapest may be visited. Danube boat, Vienna to Buda- pest, second class, 7.50 Kr.; third class, 5 Kr. Return trip (very slow), second class, 7.50 Kr.; third class, 4 Kr. Special 7-day (or less) excursions are often given for 7.50 Kr., third class (see signs in boat office); 14-day tickets, boat to Buda- pest and return by train to Vienna, cost second class, boat and third class train, 16.20 Kr.; third class boat and third class train, 13.70 Kr. *BUDAPEST is called the most picturesque capital of Europe. It has grand architecture. *The Fine Arts Museum with its great picture gallery of over 1500 works and Marga- rethen Insel are very attractive. The Stranger's Inquiry Office, IV, Vigado, Ter. I, issues a fine free guide. "A Week in Budapest and Hungar>%" giving all [)oints of interest, free admission, etc. Hotel Konigen Elisabeth, IV, Universitatgasse 5 (central, near Post Office); room, 2.60 Kr. Hotel Central, VII, Baross-Platz 23; room, 2.40 Kr. Hotel Jagerhorn, Vadaszkiirt Szalloda; room, 2.40 Kr. up; good. Hotel Pannonia, VIII, Rakoczi ut 5 (central, near both East and West station), moderate. Pension, Helenengasse 10, low. Pension International, VIII, Th. Sandorgasse 17, moderate. Pension Grimm, VIII, Ulloerstr. 14, central, moderate. Return to Vienna and go by Tabor and Gmund to PRAGUE (Praha), the wonderful old picturesque and interesting capital of Bohemia. Hotel Stadt Wien, 6 Hy- bernska ulice (street) (5 minutes to r. of Franz Joseph Station and 2 minutes to r. of Staatsbahnhof); room, 2l4 Kr. Hotel Central, 10 Hybernska ulice; room, 23^ Kr. (No. I car runs to right from Franz Joseph Station to Staats- 98 EUROPEAN GUIDE bahnhof in 3 minutes). Hotel Altes Ungelt, Tynska ulice i (central, and i minute from Altstadter Rathaus); room, 2 Kr. Plain, simple, good meals (No. 2 car runs to it). Hotel Goldener Engel, 588 (old number) or 29 (new) Celetna ulice (i minute beyond *Pulverthurn, agrand old gate) ; room, 2 Kr. Hotel Royal, 4 Havlickova ulice (opposite Staatsbahnhof); room, 2H Kr. Hotel Monopol, No. 5 Havlickova ulice; room, 2 14 Kr. Hotel Kovarik, No. 13 Na Porici (back of Staatsbahnhof); room, 1.60 Kr.; large. *The Bohemian National Museum (5 minutes to left of Franz Joseph's bahn) is well worth visiting. The Fremdenverkehr's Bureau, 5 Josef ski nam (at Pulverthurm), issue guide to Prague with large map for 20 heller. TEPLITZ is the starting point for many romantic excur- sions. Gasthof zum Tyroler (centre of city); low prices. Hotel de Saxe (at station) ; room, i .60 Kr. Hotel Kronprinz Rudolf; room, 2 Kr. SCHANDAU (in the midst of the Saxon Switzerland, and a centre for excursions). Dampschiti Hotel (at the landing place); room, 1.50 Mk.; pension; 5 Mk. Hotel Goldener Engel (at boat landing); room, 2 Mk. Hotel Anker (at market, 2 minutes from boat landing); room, i3^ Mk. The strange Bastei (see Lindley's Tourist Guide) is at Wehlen. Hotel Weber (at boat landing); room, 1.25 Mk. Hotel Stadt Wehlen (at boat landing); room, 1.25 Mk. A boat trip from here to Dresden is very beautiful (1.15 Mk., second class). GERMANY DRESDEN is called the Florence of the North and is famous for its great collections of all kinds. Wagner's Hotel, I Struvenstr. (5 minutes from station out Prager Str. and to right); room, 1.75 Mk.; large, good. Hotel Sachsicher Hof. Struvenstr. 18 (5 minutes from station); room, 1.50 Mk. Plain, good meals. Hotel zur Bleibe, 21 Trompeterstr. (5 minutes from station, out Prager Str. and to the left); room, 1.50 ]\Ik.; plain, good. Hotel Lindenauerhof, 23 Lindenaustr.; room, I to iK ^Ik. Hotel Strehlener Hof, 12 Strehlenerstr. (at station) ; room, i .50 Mk. Hotel Victoriahof , 30 Victoriastr. (4 minutes from station out Prager Str. to right); room, 1.50 to 2 Mk.; good, new. Hotel Austria, 10 Bismarck Str. (at station); room, 2 'Mk. Hotel ]Miner\'a, 6 Winckelmannstr. (at station) ; room, 1.50 Mk. Hotel Schweizerkeller, 3 Winck- elmannstr.; room, 1.50 Mk. On the other side of the city near the Elbe are Dampschiflf Hotel, Terassen Gasse 22 EUROPEAN GUIDE gg (is minutes from station, facing Elbe boat landing); room, 1.25 Mk.; plain, good. Sedauer Hof, 10 Munz Gasse (facing boat landing); room, i Mk.; plain, clean. Gasthaus zum Grunen Baum, 6 Munz Gasse, room, i to i J2 Mk. Fine, large. Fremdenverkehr's Bureau in Hauptbahnhof, Nordhalle Wiener Platz, gives away a fine guide of 180 pages; free en- trances, etc. A bus runs from Hauptbahnhof to the large Victoria Hotel for 5 Pf., and to the Zwinger Palace and Art Gallery and the Elbe boat landing for 10 Pf. On this route and near Victoria Hotel, is very fine Residenz Automat at 7 Seestrasse, also Residenz Hotel attached; room, 1.50 Mk.; large, fine, central. Hotel Lingke is very near, at 2 Seestr.; room, 1.50 Mk. Imperial Automat, 12 Konig Johann Str. (central); fine. Konig's Automat, ss Prager Str. (3 minutes from station); plain. Hotel Russicher Hof is over it; room, 114 Mk.; good. The Art Gallery is very rich and is filled with great pic- tures. Your free illustrated guide indicates all masterpieces. The many attractions in this city may be seen on free days. *The Griincs Gewolbe is marvellous; admission, i Kr. The Albertinum is fine. *This is a very gay capital. MEISSEN is famous for its porcelain, its cathedral, and its picturesque location. Hotel zum Ross (opposite station); room, 1.50 Mk. Hotel Albert Hof; room, 1.50 Mk. LEIPZIG. Many hotels on Wintergarten Str. (i minute to I. of station); Privat Hotel No. 4; room, 2 to 21^2 Mk. Carlos Hotel No. 11; room, ij^ to 2 Mk. Hotel Frohlich, 12 (corner Hahnekamm Str.); room, 2 Mk. Hotel Koenig Albert No. 13, room, i^/^ to 2 Mk. Hotel Hoffmann No. 14; room, iH ^Tk- Hennig's No. gi; room, 1.25 Mk. Lebe's Hotel, 10 Park Str. (i minute from station; opposite); room, 2 to 23^ Mk.; large. Many hotels on Blutcher Str. (2 minutes to r. of station). Hotel Schade No. 17; room, t}4 Mk. Hotel Furst Bismarck, 27; room, i}4 Mk. Ver- kehrs., 27 Naschmarkt. Free guides to Eisenach, **Cassel, etc. See the *Stadt Museum. Automats at 18 Grimmaisches Str.; at 26 Peterstr. (central), 37 Peterstr., etc. BERLIN (Anhalter Bahnhof): Go to the centre of the city at Frederich Str. and Mittel Str. (the next street beyond broad and famous Unter den Linden), No. 10 bus takes you out Frederich Str. to Franzosich Str., where it turns to the right. Get out here and walk past Behren Str. and Unter den Linden to Mittel Str., the third street crossing gay, lively Frederich str. It is i minute from the Bahnhof Frederichstr. Many hotels on Mittel Str. Hotel Jansen loo EUROPEAN GUIDE No. 53; room, 2 Mk.; good restaurant. Hotel Ruhland, No. 60; room, 2 to 23^ Mk. Hotel du Pavilion, No. 61 ; room, 2 to 23^ Mk.; good. Hotel Stadt London, No. 57 (corner Freder- ichstr.); room, 23^ Mk. Hotel Stadt Coin, No. 47; room, 1 3^ Mk. Hotel Nordstern, No. 36; room, 2 Mk.; good. Hotel St. Petersburg, No. 35; room, 2 Mk.; Hotel Skandi- navia. No. 24; room, ij^ Mk. Hotel Milano-Schweriner Hof, No. 15; room, 3 Mk.; fine. Hotel Alexandra, Nos. 16 and 17; room, 23^ Mk.; fine. Hotel Stadt Riga, No. 13; room, 3 Mk.; good. Hotel Englischer Hof, Nos. 9 and 10; room, 2 Mk. Dom Hotel, No. 7; room, 23-^ Mk.; good. Schadovv Str. leads off from 31 INIittel Str. At i a is Bej-er's Hotel; room, 2 Mk. Hotel National, i b; room, 23^ Mk.; fine, corner house; Witt's Hotel, No. 2; room, 2.50 Mk. Hotel Mainzer Hof, No. 3; room, 234 Mk.; large. Neustadt- tische kirch Str. leads off from 27 Mittel Str. At No. 16 is Wiesbadener Hof; room, 2 Mk.; large, fine. Hotel Reichs- krone. No. 11; room, 2 Mk. Also rooms at No. 17 for 13-^ Mk. *Mrs. Schultz, No. 44 Mittelstr., has nice, clean apartments; room, ifL> ^Ik.; good. If a Christian Hospiz is taken, number 2g Behrenstr. is very central; room, 1.75 to 3.50 Mk. Patzen- hofer Cafe, 8 Mittclstrasse: plain looking, but respectable; fine dark (dunkel) and light (hell) Patzenhofer beer, four- tcnths litre; 10 Pf.; good, plain meals. It is largely patronized by men. *Aschinger's Restaurants (over 30 in number) and his Conditorei and Cafes (over 10 in number) should re- ceive your special attention. They all serve good food, well cooked, at very moderate prices; they are clean, quiet, respect- able and popular. Good coffee, steaks, eggs and many fine beers and drinks at low prices. *Aschinger's Restaurant at Q7 Frederichstr. (at Frederichstr. Bahnhof near Mittelstr.) is specially large and well arranged. On the first flopr, *good food, plain service; second floor, better service; third floor, finely appointed. Elevator to ah floors. The Schult- heiss Versand' Dunkel beer (20 Pf. a large glass) is very good. Aschinger's Conditorei and Cafe, 151 Frederichstr. (near Mittelstr.) has fine *French coffee and rolls (40 Pf.), cakes, eggs, etc.; good for morning meals. *0n Leipzigerstr. (the eighth street East of Unter den Linden and a great business thoroughfare with many rich stores), at No. 85, Aschinger has a handsome new restaurant called Konigliches Hof- brauhaus; good restaurant; Munich Hofbrau beer, 60 Pf. I litre: try it. Many Automats on Frederichstr. One is at No. 149; another at No. 153, etc. EUROPEAN GUIDE loi Go to North German Lloyd oflQce, 5 Unter den Linden (near Frederich Str.) ; get free Guide through Berlin (Pharus Plan), a large colored map with everything of interest, free days, etc. *Internationales Offentliches Verkehrsbureau, at 14 L^nter den Linden (many books in window), is a large, free information bureau; maps and guides to every city free, many printed in English. All German or French guides have list of free days to every attraction; these are easily under- stood. The Tyrol guide, Dresden guide, JMunich guide, Swiss guide, and guide through Engadine are especially good. Guides for Weimar, Cassel, etc., may be had here. The Chicago Daily News Free Reading Room, g Unter den Linden, has many papers, and is a convenient resting place. You will be welcomed in the oflace of any shipping firm in any city in Europe. The North German Lloyd and Hamburg American lines are especially courteous; make full use of their kindness. From Frederichstr. and Dorotheenstr. (next street to Mittelstr.) take electric car "N" to the Schloss at Charlot- tenburg; fare, 10 Pf. Take the open car in the back. The very prettj^ ride takes you past the **Sieges AUee (which should surely be seen), with its thirty-two great statues of Emperor William's ancestors. At Charlottenburg walk through palace garden to the Mausoleum of Queen Louise, King Frederick William the Third, and William the First and his Empress Augusta (admission, 25 Pf.). It is very rich and very impressive. **The Art Gallery in the Kaiser Frederick Museum con- tains examples of nearly every artist in all schools, and is perfectly arranged. Berlin is a city of grand sculpture. It is a brilliant capital and gives an admirable impression of the power, the wealth, and the might of this great nation. **Do not enter any side courts leading ofif of Frederichstr. After seeing Berlin the most beautiful return route is Potsdam, Magdeburg, Halberstadt, Halle, and then to the most charming cities of *Weimar, Jena, Erfuth, Gotha, *Eisenach, and the famous *Wartburg. **Cassel (this city and its grand art gallery must not be omitted), Gottingen, Hildersheim (Goslar), Brunswick, Hannover, Dusseldorf to Ostcnd. and General Steam Navigation line to London. POTSDAM: See San Souci and the ]Mausoleum. MAGDEBURG: Hotel Thuringer Hof, 7 Bahnhofstr. (opposite station); room, 1.50 to 1.75 Mk. Strauch's Hotel, 6 Bahnhofstr.; room, 1.50 to 1.75 Mk. Hotel zum Goldener I02 EUROPEAN GUIDE Stern, 8 Bahnhofstr.; room, 1.50 to 1.75 Mk. Erster Auto- mat, 26 Breiteweg (main street), fine, well appointed. Peter Vischer's *grand tomb of Archbishop Ernest in the cathedral is very famous. HALBERSTADT: An antique town, with Gothic cathedral and beautiful wood architecture. *Hotel Rats- keller (opposite Rathaus) dates from 1461 A. D., and is richl\- carved; room, 2.25 Mk.; good meals. Deutsches Haus, 8 Harsleberstr. (i minute from Rathaus), A. D. 1503; fine; room, i3-i Mk. Zum Schwartzen Adler, 4 Harsleberstr.; room, 1.25 Mk. HALLE : Kramer's Gasthaus, 2 Delitzscherstr. (opposite station); room, 1.25 to 1.50 Mk. "Schultheiss," i DeUtz- scherstr.; room, 1.25 to 1.50 Mk.; plain, good restaurant; the Kulmbacher dunkel beer (15 Pf. glass) is very fine. Leipziger- str. leads directly to centre of city. Hotel Stadt Berlin, 45 Leipzigerstr. (3 minutes from station); room, iH to 2 Mk. Gasthaus Stadt Leipzig, facing 43 Leipzigerstr.; room, i}^ to 2 Mk. (It is on Martin Strasse, a parallel street thirty feet back.) Kaiser Automat, 53 Leipzigerstr. Triumph Auto- mat, 85 Leipzigerstr. The following route is extremely attractive; it is through Germany's most lovely sylvan cities. *WEIMAR is renowned as the home of many great men. Hotel Prussicher Hof, 15 Paulinen Str. (i minute to r, of station); room, 1.50 to 1.75 Mk.; plain; breakfast, 75 Pf.; large, good rooms, popular. Gasthaus zur Eisenbahn, 5 PauHnenstr. (2 minutes from station); room and breakfast, 1.25 to 1.50 Mk.; nice, quiet; large garden. ♦Hotel-Res- taurant Lichtenhainer, 14 Burgerschulstr. (central, 10 min- utes from station; i minute from Post Office) ; room and break- fast, 2 Mk.; new. clean, good, recommended. See *Museum. Drop 10 Pf . in Automatic Box in front of station for guides. Central Automat, 6 Marktstr; good. JENA: Hotel Alexanderhof, Saalbahnhofstr. (i minute to 1. of station); room, iJ4 Mk. Hotel zum Schwan, 20 Saalbahnhofstr.; room, 2 Mk.; large. Gasthof Deutsche Kaiser, 12 Saalbahnhofstr.; room, ij^ Mk. New, fine garden. Hotel zum Schwartzen Biiren, 2 Saalbahnhofstr. (on car line, 5 minutes from station); room, 2 Mk. Hotel Wolfschlucht, 2 Schlossgasse; room, i3^ Mk.; good. Frem- denverkehrs, E. Piltz, 28 Wagnergasse. ERFUTH, called the flower city, has many garden flower displays. It is the head of the seed and flower supply of the world. Hundreds of fine 14th and 15th century houses EUROPEAN GUIDE 103 may be seen; **magnificent cathedral. Hotel Silber, 24 Bahnhofstr. (i minute to 1. of station); room, ij^ to 2 Mk.; large. Hotel Kaiserhof, 15 Bahnhofstr.; room, i}A Mk'.; good. Hotel Reichshof, 28 Bahnhofstr.; room, 2 Mk." Hotel Burgurhof, 35 Bahnhofstr.; room, ii^ Mk; good, large. Central Hotel, 8 Bahnhofstr.: room, 2 Mk.; large, on corner'. Automats at Nos. 2 and 35 Bahnhofstr. To *Gotha. *£ISENACH and *Wartburg castle are famous and lovely. Hotel zum Landgrafen, 8 Bahnhofstr. (2 minutes from station on car line); room, i}^ Mk.; new, good. Hotel Kronprinz, 30 Bahnhofstr.; room, 1.25 Mk. Hotel Kart- hiiuserhof, 20 Karlsplatz (central; opposite Luther statue; 5 mmutes from station on car line); room, 2 Mk. Hotel Roland, 21 Karlsplatz; room, i^ Mk.; large. Hotel Reichs- kanzler, 26 Karlsplatz; room, 1.50 Mk.; good. Hotel Mille, 16 Johannesplatz (middle city on car line); room, i to 1.25 Mk.; good. Gasthaus Carlshalle, yKarlsplatz; room, 1.25 to 1.50 Mk. Christl. Hospiz, 10 Karlsplatz; room, 1.25 to 1.50 Mk. New. The street car marked Marienthal-Wartburg chaussee- Bahnhof leads to the foot of the Wartburg with easy ascent. Many monuments at the car stop. The view from the castle is tine. Wartburg Automat, 51 Bahnhofstr. V'erkehrsbiiro, 44 Bahnhofstr. (i minute from station). Maps, books, etc., free. **CASSEL: See the grand Art Gallery, Royal Academy of Sculpture and the rich Museum. See Wilhelmshohe park, fountains, and palace. Vast sums have been lavished on this park. The Art Gallery ranks third in Germany, and is richer in the Dutch masters than the Dresden and the Munich Galleries. Gasthaus zum Nurnberger Hof, Orleanstr. 7 (i minute from station) : room and breakfast, 1.50 Mk.; good meals, recommended. Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten, 11 Bahn- hofstr. (2 xninutes from station on car Hne) ; room, i H to 2 Mk. Hotel Wurtemburger Hof, 12 Bahnhofstr.; room, ij-^ Mk.; large. Hotel Maus, iq Bahnhofstr.; room, 1.75 Mk.; large. Hotel Rheinischer Hof, 21 Bahnhofstr.; room and breakfast, 2.25 Mk. Hotel Reichshof, 21 Bahnhofstr.; room, 2 Mk.; large. Hotel Hessicher Hof, 25 Bahnhofstr.; room and breakfast, 2.25 Mk. Chr. Hospiz, 4 Kleine Rosenstr. (4 minutes from station); room, 1.25 Mk.; good. Hotel Stadt Dresden, 7 Victoriastr. (i minute to right station up hill); room, lii Mk.; good. Hotel-Restaurant Victoria, 9 Victoriastr.; room, i^ to 2 Mk. (it is at 34 Kolnischerstr.; corner). Hotel Dohne, 4 Grosse Rosenstr. (3 minutes from I04 EUROPE.\N GUIDE station); room, i}-i to 2 Mk. Bahnbof Automat, 17 Bahn- hofstr. Central Automat, 16 Kolnischer Str.; good. Kaiser Automat, 64 Unter Konigstr. (central; near Post Office). The Fremden Verkehrsverein, Kleine Rosenstr. 4, issue a beautiful illustrated guide with maps, free entrances, etc. **The Art Gallery is crowded with masterpieces, including **2i Rembrandts, 10 Rubens, 10 Jordaens, 10 Teniers, 23 Wouvermanns (whose dainty yet vigorous works are highly esteemed in Germany), and 16 Van Dycks. *In this marvel- lously rich collection nearly every separate room contains a Rembrandt. **\Vilhelmshohe is the most attractive artificial park in Europe. The palace (admission, 25 Pf.) is richly and tastefully furnished and contains many of Tischbein's paint- ings. **Do not miss seeing this beautiful capital of Hesse- Nassau. GOTTINGEN, the famous old university city. Hotel Stadt Hannover (2 minutes from station); room and break- fast, 2 Mk. Central Hotel (10 minutes from station); room, 1.50 Mk. To an old picturesque city with a wealth of wooden architecture, antique HILDESHEIM (the Nuremberg of the North): Hotel Weisser Schwan, Schuhstr. (centre of city); room ami breakfast, 1.75 and 2 Mk. Hotel Rheinischer Hof, Kaiserstr. 4 (3 minutes from station); room and breakfast, 2.25 Mk. GOSLAR: A strange, ancient city, the entrance to the Harz Mountains, Harzburg, and the Brocken. See Lind- ley's "Tourist Guide." Gasthaus zum Goldenen Stern, Baringerstr. 6 (6 minutes from station) ; room and breakfast, 2 Mk. Hotel Deutsches Haus (near station); room and breakfast, 1.75 Mk. Romischer Kaiser (centre of city); room and breakfast, 2 Mk. Quaint wood architecture every- where. BRXJNSWICK (Braunschweig): Hotel Braunschweiger Hof, Ziegenmarkt 7 (5 minutes from station); room and breakfast, 1.7S ^Ik. Hotel Stadt Wolfenbiittel. Kuhstr. 16 (5 minutes from station); room and breakfast, 1.25 Mk. Hotd Siichsicher Hof, Gordelingerstr. 42 (5 minutes from station); room and breakfast, 2 Mk. Hotel Kaiserhof (opposite station); room, 2.25 Mk. Hotel Erbprinz, 5 Egy- dienmarkt (near station) ; room, 2 Mk. *See the fine ^Museum and the *picture gallery. *This is a real old, typically Ger- man citv. Verkehrsverein Bankplatz 3. HANNOVER : Zur Alten Reichbank, Grosse Packhofstr. 28 (i minute from station); room and breakfast, 2 Mk. EUROPEAN GUIDE 105 Bellevue, Raschpl. 8 (at station); room and breakfast, 2.25 Mk. Brun's Hotel, Osterstr. 25 (3 minutes from station); room and breakfast, 1.75 and 2 Mk. Also Berliner Hof, 39 Osterstr.; room and breakfast, i}4 and 2 Mk. Hotel Han- nover, I Joachimstr. (opposite station); room, 2.25 Mk. Hotel Deutsches Haus, 9 Kanalstr. (2 minutes from station); room and breakfast, 2.25 Mk. Hotel Hohenzollern (opposite station); room, 2 Mk. This is a delightful city, with fine surroundings. Gardens and parks are very extensive and always open. Fremdenverkehrsverein, 51 Ernst August Platz. Free books, etc. To Barmen (see before); Elberfeld (see before), Dussel- dorf, Antwerp, Brussels, Ostend, and London. HAMBURG may be visited. Hotel St. Petersburg, Holzdamm (at station); room, 2 Mk. Hotel Lengenfeldt, Holzdamm 53 (i minute from station); room, 2 Mk. Hotel Pariser Hof, Holzdamm 55, room, 2.25 ]Mk. Hotel Gross- herzog von Mecklenberg. Schweinemarkt i (near station); room, 2 Mk. Diedrich's Hotel, 5 Schweinemarkt; room and breakfast, 2 Mk. Liibecker Hof, 9 Schweinemarkt; room, 2 Mk. Automats at Rathhausmarkt 18 (central); also at Mo. 8 Rathhausmarkt. Fremdenverkehrsverein Auskunftstelle, Alscerdamm 39. Large guide with map, 160 pages, free. BREMEN may be_ visited._ Hotel Stadt Munchen, 7 Bahnhofstr. (i minute from station); room, 1.50 to 2.50 Mk. Hotel Wurttemberger Hof. 10 Bahnhofstr; room, 1.50 ]\Ik. Hotel Alberti, 27 Bahnhofstr.; room, 2.50 Mk. Schreck's Hotel, 12 Bahnhofplatz (to right station); room, 1.50 to 2.,';o ]\Ik. Hotel Fiirstenhof, 11 Bahnhofplatz; room, 1.50 \o 2.50 Mk. Hotel Grieme, 18 An der Weide (i minute to 1. of station); room and breakfast, 2 Mk. Hotel St. Peters- burg, 4 An der Weide; room, 2 Mk. Fremdenverkehrsverein at 36 Bahnhofstrasse. Free guide, 95 pages, with maps, etc. ENGLAND Between London and Glasgow stops may be made at WINDSOR: *See palace, i Sh.^ (one of _ the best in. Europe). *0n Wednesday's only visitors admitted without escort, but a higher price is charged. See beautiful Virginia Water, termination of Long Walk. A little ways off, at Frogmore, is the mausoleum of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. See Eton College, across the Thames. Miss Gibb, io6 EUROPEAN GUIDE 51 King's Road, and Miss Keen, 71 King's Road, good and moderate. ETON: Bridge House; rooms, 2H Sh. *The most beautiful section of the Thames lies between Windsor and Oxford. Go by boat or bj^ rail. **OXFORb: (The most wonderful seat of learning in the world.) This is a grand city, its architecture is very impressive. Mrs. Baycock, 70 St. Aldates St. (central); room and breakfast, 1J2 Sh.; plain, clean, nice. Temper- ance Hotel, 28 Hythe Bridge St. (central) ; moderate. Gleen House, 5 Cripley Road; moderate. Mrs. Quelch, 26 Wel- lington Square, and Miss Ray, 16 Wellington Square; moder- ate. Isis Boarding House, 49 Iffley Road (near Magdalen College); Pens., 6 Sh. up. STRATFORD-ON-AVON: Golden Bee, Sheep St. (next to Post Office); room, 2 Sh. Fountain Temperance Hotel (near station); room, 2>^ Sh. Lansdowne Private Hotel, 4 Wood St.; moderate. Shakespeare Dining Rooms, 42 Wood St.; rooms low. WARWICK: The castle is fine, but hardly worth 2 Sh. admission, as the best of the apartnu ts are not now shown. Miss Johnson, 4 Northgate Street; ';oard, 4 Sh. per day. Mrs. Drake, 8 Church Street. Dale Temperance Hotel (central); moderate. White House, 20 Northgate Street (central); moderate. Collier's Est., 6 New Street; moderate. Mrs. Church, ig Gaveston Road (central); moderate. A few minutes by electric car takes you to leafy LEAMINGTON: Cobden Temperance Hotel; board, 4 Sh. 6 D. a day. Miss Pearson, Moor House, 23 Priory Terrace. Mrs. Collier, 51 Avenue Road; rooms low. West- minster Temperance Hotel, Bath St.; moderate. York Temperance Hotel, 5 Spencer St.; moderate. Washington Hotel (opposite staaon); moderate. KENILWORTH: The ancient castle is the only at- traction. Admission, i Sh. COVENTRY: Priory Temperance Hotel, 39 Bayley Lane; room and board, low; bath, etc. BIRMINGHAM: Busy manufacturing city. Cobden Hotel, Corporation Street; room, 21^ Sh. Lamp Hotel, Bull Street; moderate charges for room and meals. ♦LICHFIELD: Fine old cathedral. Mrs. Palmer, 6 Vicar's Close. Miss Foster, 2 The Close. Minster Cafe and Temperance Hotel, Market Square. Through Burton (all breweries) to Derby and Rowsley for Haddon Hall and Chatsworth. Matlock Bath (Mrs. Walker, 2 Mid- EUROPEAN GUIDE 107 land Terrace, near station; Mrs. J. Walker, 4 Hope Terrace; moderate), Buxton (Mrs. Gaunt, 26 Bridge St.; Mrs. Smith, 12 Bridge St.), and Bakewell (Mrs. Hall, Rutland Terrace; board and rooms low) are the most beautiful sec- tions of rural England. NOTTINGHAM is near, if you wish to visit Byron's home and Sherwood Forest. SHREWSBURY : Central Tem.perance Hotel, 9 Butcher Row (5 minutes from station; 2 minutes from Post Office). Sabrina Hotel, 3 Shoplatch (opposite IMarket Hall). Gras- mere Boarding House, Princess St. (central). All moderate priced. **C HESTER: Mrs. Price, Chancellor Cafe, City Road (on right, just over bridge); room, i3^ Sh.; meals good. ^liss Piper, 23 Bold Terrace (central); rooms and board. Windsor Temperance Hotel, 31 City Road (3 minutes from station); moderate. "City House," City Road, and "The Boston," City Road; moderate. Mrs. Draycott, 31 Bold Terrace; moderate. The cathedral, the walls, the Rows, and the old houses are very interesting. Take a boat trip as far as Eaton Hall. Walk back through park. Interior fine. LIVERPOOL: Shaftesbury Temperance Hotel, Mount Pleasant (near station); room, 2],^ Sh. Laurence's Temper- ance Hotel, 20 Clayton Square (3 minutes from station); moderate. Isle's Temperance Hotel, 32 Norton St. (near station). Tea, bed, and breakfast, ^l-i Sh.; good. *See the Walker Art Gallery. This trip from London is about 250 miles, and costs i D. per mile, third class. (If you land at Liverpool, of course, reverse this?direct route.) A Great Western Railway Tourist Ticket, London to Chester (or vice versa) has almost all of these stops and costs 163/2 Sh. The Englisli Lake District (Windermere, Gras- mere, Kenwick, etc.) is near your route. It is pretty and picturesque. A London and Northwestern Railway Tourist Ticket, London to Glasgow, covers all these cities; inquire about them. CARLISLE has a fair cathedral with *fine, large East window. *Few or no trains run through Scotland on Sun- day; so beware of Carlisle on Saturday night. Chisam's Hotel, Botchergate (2 minutes from station); moderate. To Glasgow. In Europe certain public signs and words are continually used. They are here given and translated. The unmarked words are used in Germany and Austria; those marked F., in France; I., in Italy; H., in Holland; B., in Bohemia. o8 EUROPEAN GUIDE VOCABULARY Abgang, Abfahrt. Departure. Abort, Abtritt. W. C. Allee (F.). Avenue. Alles. All. Andate (I.). One way (on a journey). Andate e ritomo. Return journey. Ankunft. Arrival. Annahme (Handgepack). Put in. Aperto (I.). Open. Ausgabe (Handgepack). Take out. Ausgang. E.xit. Austellung. Fair; show. Bagages en depot (F.). Parcel room. Bahnsteig. Railway track. Besetzt. Taken; occupied, Bitte. Please. Brief. Letter. Bureau des bagages (F.). Parcel room. Caldo (I.). Hot. Carta del Giomo (I.). Bill of fare. Cekamam (B.). Waiting-room. Chiuso (I.). Closed. Cour (F.). W. C. (in Belgium). Damen. Women. Dejeuner (F.). Lunch. Direct. No change of cars. Donna (I.). Women. Drucken. Push. Durchgang. Exit. Echt. Genuine. Eilzug. Moderately fast train. Eingang gegeniiber. Entrance other side. Einschreib. Register (a letter). Eintritt. Entrance. Eis (L). Ice- cream. Entrata (I.). Entrance. Entree gratuite (F.). Entrance free. Entree interdite (F.). Entrance forbidden. Entree payante (F.). Entrance to pay. EUROPEAN GUIDE log Fahrkarten. Ticket. Fahrkarten Abgabe. Ticket window. Fanciulli (I.). Children. Feiertagen. Holiday. Fermes (F.). Closed. Fernsprecht. Telephone. Frauen. Women. Freddo (I.). Cold. Frei. Free. Friihstuck. Breakfast. Garderobe. Parcel room (in Austria). Gasosa (I.). Soda water. Gefrone, Gelato (I.). Ice-cream. Gegeniiber. Opposite. Geschlossen. Closed. Ghiacci (L). Ice. Giomo (I.). Day. Glaser. Glass. Gratuite (F.). Free. Handbagage. (H.). Parcel room. Handgepack. Hand baggage-room. Heen en terug (H.). There and back. Heis. Hot. Herren. Men. Imbarco (I.). Embark. Ingang. Entrance. Interdite (F.). Forbidden. Kalt. Cold. Kavy (B.). Coffee. Kein E ingang. No entrance. Kein Durchgang. No exit. Klosety (B.). Closet. Ku vlakum (B.). To the train. Latrina (I.). W. C. Lavenderia (I.). Laundry Links. (To the) left. Lieux d'Aisance (F.). W. C. Menu (F.). Bill of fare. lo EUROPE.\N GUIDE Nach. To. (It means after, on a painting.) Nein. No. Nicht raucher. No smoking. Non (F.). No. Nur. Only. O or OO. W. C. Ontbijt (H.). Breakfast. Pagato (I.). Paid. Perron (B.). Track. Personenzug. Slow train (fourth class). Petit dejeuner (F.). Breakfast. Pissort. Toilet for men. Plein (H.). Square. Post. Post office. Raucher. Smoking. Rechnung. The account. Rechts. (To) right. Retirade (I.). W. C. Richtung. Direction. Room (H.). Cream. Rue (F.). Street. Satna (B.). Parcel room. Schnellzug. Fast train. Schule. School. See. Lake. Seite. Side. Seltz. Soda water. Sitze. Seat. Soda wasser. Soda water. Speisekart. Bill of fare. Spuitwasser (H.). Soda water. Sputare (I.). Spit. Staat (H.). City. Stadt. City. Stanice (B.). Station. Strasse. Street. Stuck. Piece or thing. Tassen. Cup. Toilette (F.). W. C. Tutti (I.). All. EUROPEAN GUIDE Ulice (B.). Street. Umgebung. Surroundings. Umsteigen. Change cars. Uomina (I.)- Men. Upravna (B.). Wash room. Uscita (I.). Exit. Verboten. Forbidden. Verkaufen. To sell. Vichy. Soda water. Vietato (I.). Forbidden. Vrijen ingang (H.). Free entrance. Vrouwen (H.). Women. Von. From. Vychod (B.). Exit. Wartesaal. Waiting room. Weg. Way. Werkplaats (H.). School of. Werkstaat. Workshop. Wirtschaft. Eating room. Zachody pro pany (B.). W. C. men. Zachody pro damy (B.). W. C. women. Ziehen. Pull. Zur. To. Ziiruck. Return. INDEX Aachen, 42. Abonneraents, 6, 7. Achensee (Tyrol), 86. Aix-la-Chapelle (Aachen), 42. Altaussee, 93. Amalfi, 83. Amiens, 38. Amsterdam. 47. Andernach, 59. Antwerp, 44. Arezzo, 81. Arnhem, 49. Arona, 72, Arras, 38. Arth-Goldau, 68. Assisi. 82. Asti, 85. Audenarde, 40. Augsburg. 90. Aussee. 93. Austria, 91. Austrian Tyrol, 85. Avenza, 84. Bach.arach, 60. Baden-Baden. 64. Bakewell. 107 . Bamberg. 89. Barmen. 57. Basle, 65. Bastei. the, 98'. Bavaria, 86. Baveno, 72. Beauvais, 38. Belgium, 39. Bellagio, 73. Bellinzona, 68. Berchtesgaden, gi. Bergamo, 76. Berlin. 99. Berne, 70. Bingen, 60. Birmingham, io6. Bologna, 80. Bonn, 59. Books to read, 9, 10, 24. Boppard, 60. Bozen-Gries, 86. Bregenz, 64 . Bremen, 105. Brescia, 76. Brienz, 71. Brighton, 26. Brocken, 104. Bruges. 40. Brunswick. 104. Brussels, 43. Buchs, 15. Budapest, 97. Burgau, 92. Buxton. 107. C.ADEXABBIA. 73. Cambridge. 30. Canterburj'. 26. Capri, Isle of, 83. Carlisle. 107. Carlsruhe, 63. Carrara, 84. Caserta, 84. Cassel, 103. Catania. 84. Certosa, 85. Chamounix, 70. Charlottenburg, loi. Chartres, 37. Chester, 107. Chiavari, 84. Chiemsee, 90. Chillon, 70. Christian Hospize, 40. Chur, 67. Circular \'oyage Tickets, 7, 72, 74, 75. 76. 113 114 INDEX Clothes to buy, 24, 25, 42. Clothes to wear, 14. Coblenz, 59. Cologne, 58. Como, 73. Como, Lake of, 73. Constance, 69. Cork. 20. Cortona, 81. Courtrai, 39. Coventry, 106. Darmstadt, 62. Delft, 46. Derby, 106. Desenzano, 77. Dieppe, 34. Dordrecht, 45. Douai, 38. Drachenfels, 59. Dresden, 98. Dublin, 21. Durham, 29. Diisseldorf, 56. Ebensee. 93. Edinburgh, 28. Ehrenbreitstein, 60. Eisenach, 103. Elbcrfeld, 57. Ely. 30. Ems. Bad, 60. England, 21, 29, 105. Erfurt, 102. Eton, 106. Evangelischen Hospize, 53. Feld KIRCH, 15. Ferrara, 80. Florence, 80. Fluelen, 68. France, 33. Frankfort-on-Main, 61. Freiburg, 64. Fribourg, 70. Garda, Lake of, 77. Gardone, 77. Geneva, 69. Genoa, 85. Germany, 49, 86, 98. Ghent, 41. Glasgow, 27. Gmunden, 94. Goslar, 104. Gotha, 103. Gottingen, 104. Haarlem, 47. Hague, The, 46. Halberstadt, 102. Hall, 86. Halle, 102. Hallstatt, 93. Hamburg, 105. Hand baggage, 14. Hannover, 104. Harlem, 47. Havre, 34. Heidelberg, 63. Hildesheim, 104. Holland, 45. Homburg, Bad, 62. Hospice, 49-56. Iglys, 86. Ingolstadt, 87. Innsbruck, 86. Interlaken, 70. Intra, 72. Inversnaid, 28. Ireland, 20. Ischl, Bad, 93. Iseo, 77. Isle of Capri, 83. Isle of Wight, 21. Isola Bella, 72. Isola Madre, 72. Italy, 73- Jena, 102. Jenbach, 86. Joint Line Tickets, 12. Jungfrau, 71. Kelheim, 88. Kenihvorth, 106. Kerns, 71. Killarney, 21. Konigsee, 91. Konigswinter, 59. Kufstein, 86. INDEX 115 Lambach, 94. Landeck, 15. Larianna, 73. Lausanne, 69. Lauterbrunnen, 71. Lavagna. S4. Leamington, 106. Leghorn, 84. Leipzig, 99. Leug. 92. Levanto, 84. Ley den. 47. Lichfield, 106. Lido, 79. ■ Liege, 42. Lille, 36. Lincoln, 30. Lindau, 15. Linz (Danube), 94. Liverpool, 107. Locarno, 72. Loch Eck, 28. Loch Lomond. 28, Loch Long, 2S. London, 23. 30. Lorelei (Rhine), 60. Lou vain, 42. Lucca, 84. Lucerne, 68. Lugano, 72. Luino. 72. Luxembourg, 43. Maastricht, 48. Magdeburg, lor. ]Maggiore, Lake, 72. Mainz, 61. Malines. 44. Mannheim., 63. Marken, Isle of, 48. Martignv, 70. ^Lassa. 84. ALitlock Bath, 106. Mayence, 61. Mechlin. 44. Mciringen. 71. Meissen, 99. Menaggio, 73. Mendel Pass, 86. Messina, 84. Milan, 74, 85. Modena, 80. Mondsee, 92. Money table, 9. Monte Generoso, 72. Monte San Salvatore, 72. Montreux, 70. Mont St. Michel, 19. Monza, 73. Munich, 86, 90. Miirren, 71. Namur, 40. Naples. 83. Nature's beauty spots, 18. Nervi. 85. Neuchatel, 69. New Forest, 21. Nottingham, 107. Novara. 85. Nuremberg, 8c. Oberwesel, 60. Orvieto, 82. Ostend, 40. Ouchy, 70. Oxford, 106. Padua. 78. Paestum, 84. Pallanza, 72. Parcel Room, 14. Paris, 34. Parma, 80. Passau, 15. Pavia, 85. Pegli, 84. Perugia, 81. Pesto, 84. Peterborough, 30. Pisa, 84. Pistoia, 80. Pompeii, 83. Ponte Tresa. 72. Porlezza, 73. Potsdam, loi. Prague, 97. Prato, 80. Prien, 90. QUEENSTOWN, 20. Quinto, 85. ii6 INDEX Railway travel, 17. Rapallo, 84. Ratisbon, 88. Ravello, 83. Ravenna, 80. Recco, 85. Regensburg, 88. Reggio, 80, 84. Reichenhall, Bad, 92. Remagen, 59. Rhine, the, 58. Rigi, the, 68. Riva, 77. Riviera, the, 84. Rolandseck, 59. Romanshorn, 69. Rome, 82. Rorschach, 69. Rosenheim. 86, 90. Rothenburg, 89. Rotterdam, 46. Rouen, 34. Routes of travel, 15, 16. Rowslc}-. 106. Rudesheim, 61. Saal, 88. St. Gall, 69. St. Gilgen, 92. St. Goar. 60. St. Maurice. 70. St. Moritz. 67. St. Wolfgang 92. Salerno, S3. Salisbury, 22 Salo. 77. Salzburg. 91. Salzkammcrgut. 91. Santa ilargherita, 85. Sarnen. 71. Schafberg. 92. Schaffhausen. 69. Schandau. 98. SchanzH. the. 70. Scharfling, 92. Scheidegg. Kleine, 71. Schynige PTatte, 71. Scotland, 27. Scottish Highlands, 28. Sestri Levante, 84. Shanklin, 21. Ships. 10, II, 12. 13. Shrewsbury, 107. Sicily, 83. Siena, 82. Sirmione, 77. Solothurn, 69. Sorrento, 83. Southampton, 21. Spa. 42. Speyer, 63. Spezia, 84. Spires, 63. Stanserhorn. 68. Steinach, 89. Stolzenfels, 60. Stonehenge, 22. Strassburg. 64. Stratford-on-.\von, 106. Stresa. 72. Strobl. 03- Sturla. 85. Stuttgart, 63. Switzerland, 64. Taorotna, 84. Tarbet, 28. Teplitz, 98. Terentola, 81. Territet, 70. Thun, 70. Thusis, 67. Tips, 17. Tourists' tickets, 12, 26. Tournai. 40. Tours and Routes, 15, 16. Traunkirchen, 94. Travelers' checks, 8. Travel words, phrases, vocab- ularj', etc., 7, 31, 39, 108. Trent, 85. Treves, 43. Treviglio, 76. Trossachs, 27, 28. Trunks, 13. Turin, 85. Tyrol (Austrian), 85. Uetliberg, 67. Ulm, 90. Unterach, 92. Utrecht, 49. Valenciennes, 38. Venice, 78. INDEX 117 Ventnor, 21. Verona, 77- Versailles, 37. Vevey, 70- Veyteux-Chillon, 70. Via Mala, 67. Vicenza, 7S. Vienna, 94. Villa San Giovanni, 84. Visp, 70. Vocabulary, loS. Walhalla, 88. Wartburg, 103. Warwick, 106. Wehlen, 98. Weimar, 102. Weissenbach, 92. Wiesbaden, 61. Wight, Isle of, 21. Wilhelmshohe, 103. Winchester, 21. Windermere, 107. Windsor, 105. Wolhiisen, 68. Worms, 62. Wurzburg, 89. York, 29. Ypres, 40. Zermatt, 70. Zoagli, 84. Zug, 68. Zurich. 67. HILL'S VEST-POCKET DICTIONARIES INDEXED No expense has been spared in compiling these books. As a result, the most complete Foreign Language Dictionaries of handy size have been produced. Not only are they the most convenient for the student, but also the most practi- cal for use of progressive American business men who come in contact with foreign-language-speaking people. They are the most reliable dictionaries of this style on the market, and each one contains a conipleta guide to pronunciation, with rules for same. Condensation and usefulness are the chief features of these books. Unusual and self-explanatory terms are left out to make room for more needful words. They are very useful for those desiring to translate either language into the other in the shortest possible time. Each language being separately indexed makes rapid reference possible. Proper accents are given to all words. FRENCH-ENGLISH AND ENGLISH-FRENCH GERMAN-ENGLISH AND ENGLISH-GERMAN SPANISH-ENGLISH AND ENGLISH-SPANISH ITALIAN-ENGLISH AND ENGLISH-ITALIAN LATIN-ENGLISH AND ENGLISH-LATIN SWEDISH-ENGLISH AND ENGLISH-SWEDISH DANO-NORWEGIAN-ENGLISH AND ENGLJSH- DANO-NORWEGIAN RUSSIAN-ENGLISH AND ENGLISH-RUSSIAN Price for Each of the Foreign Language Dictionaries Full Leather Binding, Gold Title Stamp .... 50 cents Rexible Cloth Binding, Colored Edges ... 25 cents For Sale by all Booksellers or sent prepaid by DAVID McKAY, PUBLISHER PHILADELPHIA FOR PRACTICAL USE BY Travelers, Tourists and Students VEST POCKET EDITIONS OF Franz Thimm's Books THESE books have never before been published in vest- pocket form. They are planned to and do clearly set forth a new system founded on the most simple prin- ciples for universal tuition, enabling any person to command the necessary words or phrases " at a glance," as they con- tain the words generally in use, easy and necessary colloquial phrases and dialogues, travel talk, etc. A complete English pronunciation of every word, table of coins, etc. New and improved editions. FRENCH SELF-TAUGHT GERMAN SELF-TAUGHT ITALIAN SELF-TAUGHT SPANISH SELF-TAUGHT Price for Each of the Language Books Full Leather Binding, Gold Title Stamp .... 50 cents Flexible Cloth Binding, Colored Edges .... 25 cents For Sale by all Booksellers or sent prepaid by DAVID McKAY, PUBLISHER PHILADELPHIA The "Afflerican Abroad" Series INDISPENSABLE to every Tourist and Traveler. If you are going abroad and wish to travel in comfort, you cannot do better than take these handy volumes with you, as they will enable you to get on without the help of guide or inter- preter. They are, in fact, Guide and Interpreter in one. and will save you money, time and labor. These excellent little books contain a concise guide to the important towns and give photographs of the foreign moneys with their equivalent value in each country. The tourist, quite ignorant of the language, will find all the phrases he re- quires and the pronunciation of every word. Edited by D. J. REES (London University) Size 7% X 5 THE AMERICAN IN FRANCE THE AMERICAN IN GERMANY THE AMERICAN IN ITALY THE AMERICAN IN SPAIN THE AMERICAN IN HOLLAND PRICE OF EACH VOLUME Bound in Flexible Cloth 50 cents At all Booksellers or sent prepaid by DAVID McKAY, PUBLISHER PHILADELPHIA BOOKS OR TRAVEL By AUGUSTUS J. C. HARE H\ J IS accounts of scenery and traveling are obviously I I inspired with the localities described. He gives in- formation not to be obtained at all elsewhere, or, at least, to be collected with difficulty. 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