AT'GIRLINFRANCe LIBRARY OF CONGRESS DDDllDtDbDVD Class _J1 Book Copyright ]^"_ t '1 ... COPHyCHT DEPOSIT. A "Y" Girl in France LETTERS OF KATHERINE SHORTALL BOSTON RICHARD G. BADGER THE GORHAM PRESS V .f 70 Copyright, 1919, by Richard G. Badger • /, O r" All Rights Reserved * j.D u MADE IN THE UNITED STATES OP AMERICA TP9 Gqjisam Frbss, Boston, U. S. a. JAN 29 1920 CG)G!A5B M-JHT At the solicitation of many friends I am pub- lishing, unknown to my daughter, these letters written by her while in the service of the Y. M. C. A. The letters have come to me scribbled in lead pencil and in every color of ink upon an assortment of stationery that in itself revealed the snatching of whatever opportunity to write occurred in a busy life. I make here public apology to the author if I have caused to be printed anything she would pre- fer not to have said outside the family circle. The spirit manifest in these letters has been that of hundreds of girls wearing the same colors, do- ing faithfully and perseveringly the work that was given them to do, whether it chanced to be dra- matic and exhilarating or plain drudgery. To each one of them as she doffs her uniform I would say, in the recent happy phrasing of a statesman: "Let us not demobilize the Spirit of Helpful- ness I" and with sincere homage I dedicate this little book TO OUR "Y" GIRLS. M. C. S. September, 19 19. A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE A "Y" Girl in France Monday, Dec. 23, 19 18. Well, dear Family, here I am at sea, and every- thing is fine. At noon on Saturday our tugs pulled us away from the dock ahead of the "Prinzes Juliana" which lay alongside. Great waving of handkerchiefs between the blue-hatted crowds of Y. M. C. A. girls on both ships. The harbor was misty and the sky line of New York was very beautiful and shadowy. As we steamed out we passed the "Baltic" coming in, laden with troops. The boys were wild with enthusiasm at returning home. Many had climbed way up the rigging and as we passed they all cheered and we cheered back, and handkerchiefs fluttered and hats were waved. Then we went by the Statue of Liberty and out to sea. Before long the deck was covered with tiredY. M.C.A.girls lying prostrate in their steamer chairs with their eyes closed. You never saw so many green capes and blue hats in your life I We are in the great majority on the boat. The sea was calm and silvery, and it was delicious to have nothing to do but to enjoy it and to let that salt water leth- argy creep over you. However, I also felt a cold 7 8 A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE creeping over me, in spite of "red pills" and fresh air, and Sunday when I woke up I had a feeling in my chest that made me decide the better part of valor was to remain in bed. It was a nuisance, because the weather outside was like a day in June. I looked out of the porthole onto a level blue sea and warm, balmy air blew in. It was un- believable. The ship's doctor visited me, tapped me and put on a hot compress, and I lay in my up- per berth all day in a sort of feverish stupor, en- joying the faint motion of the ship and the singing from the church service which floated in to me clearly, and this morning I woke up practically well. I have been out all day, walked four miles and feel splendid. Such weather you never dreamed of for December. Clear blue skies, a chipper breeze off the starboard bow and waves just big enough to make us pitch gently in a very unobjectionable way. This evening's clouds are piling up round the horizon, so who knows but old Eolus may be getting ready to send us a Christmas present. There are four girls to each stateroom. My room-mates are very nice girls, and we get along very well in spite of the congestion. There is a Miss S., a very splendid, dark-haired, athletic- looking girl who attracts me exceedingly. Then there is Miss A. from Baltimore, with a strong A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE 9 Southern accent, kind-hearted and sensible. Also a quiet little mouse of a girl, Miss C, who is very earnest and wants to improve each moment, and was quite worried about herself because she sat in her chair a whole afternoon and didn't do any- thing. There is a sprinkling of Englishmen on board, a few American men, ten Japanese, an Italian Col- onel who apparently is very much of a lady-killer, one Y. M. C. A. man and about a hundred of us in our high collars and greenish suits. The "Caronia" has been an armored cruiser in the Pacific during the first part of the war, and then was hastily fitted up to carry troops. She is in rather bad condition, battered and dirty. Nev- ertheless ship life seems just what it was before the war. The food is good, tea is served, the attend- ants with their nice English voices are all so re- markably courteous and — charming I That is the only word for it. And now I must go and dress for dinner, which means, I shall put on a clean high collar. Ugh 1 Sunday, Dec. 29th. I must tell you about our Christmas at sea. It is the custom on all English ships for the stewards at midnight to go all through the ships singing carols. As I lay in my berth I heard them begin, 10 A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE such a fine men's chorus, singing in harmony. They came down our corridor, passed us, the sound gradually dying away, then the "Y" girls began and also went all over the ship, singing very well. Christmas was a wet, foggy day. The old "Ca- ronia" would put her nose down into a wave and send a shower of spray over the decks. There were a few seasick people, yet one would hardly have called it rough. In the morning there was a short Christmas service, but the nicest part of the day came in the afternoon and will always stand out in my memory. All the girls had a tre- mendous lot of candy and fruit, and they decided to divide it all up so that every man employed on board the ship should get a present from the Y. M. C. A. In the afternoon we all went way down into the lower regions of the ship to sing and to distribute our gifts. There all the men who work down in the darkness were assembled. The *'Y" girls sang, then the men sang, Christmas carols at first, but the party got merrier and merrier, and funny songs and solos and stunts of all kinds were performed. An old piano had been brought down. One of the stewards, a true comedian, gave us sev- eral awfully good songs, with a charm and a rhythm that were quite irresistible. One little Irish-looking boy with waving dark hair and a mischievous, sensitive face, sang cockney songs, A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE ii the others joining in the chorus. Then, as the "Y" girls sang a catchy "rag" he was pushed for- ward and began a nimble clog dance. The first thing I knew, I was in the ring dancing with him ! There was a shout of surprise from everybody, and they kept us at it over and over again. Finally we left, feeling really happy. It had been one of those rare parties where every one contributed to the entertainment. A few days later the enclosed expression of gratitude from the "catering depart- ment" was handed to each "Y" girl, also several others, equally appreciative, from the engineers and members of the crew. The day after Xmas is a holiday in England. The men were again trying to have a little festivity down below and I was asked to go down and dance for them, so of course I did. I did the "Cachuca" to horrible old waltz music banged out by one of the stewards, I did every dance I ever knew and more than I knew; and then we had songs and more stunts from the men. Such good songs, and so catchy. It was great fun, and the men were so appreciative. And all down in the dark, damp, unknown region of a big ship I The American men on board are not to our country's credit; a poor lot. The Italian colonel is the centre of attraction. He is a fascinating per- son, liked by men and women equally. He has 12 A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE borrowed my guitar for the voyage and sings and whistles to delighted groups. This morning, after a foggy but calm voyage, we came up on deck to find everything glistening in sun. The sea was streaked in green and black and the white caps gleamed, while ever widening patches of blue appeared among the clouds. To port, barely distinguishable in the gray clouds, was Ireland. Pretty soon, on the other side, Wales came into sight. The day has become brighter and brighter. Continually we pass little steamers. There is the thrill of approaching land. We do not know where we are going. Such a delightful, irresponsible sensation 1 I know just how a boy must feel in the army. New Year's Day, 1919. Here I am, writing like any soldier at a Y. M. C. A. canteen in Liverpool. There are four of us crowded round one little table in a large, bare, smoky room. The place is buzzing with soldiers, a game of billiards is going on in one corner and in another a graphophone is never allowed one moment's rest. You would laugh, (or perhaps you wouldn't!) if you could see me camping out in the wilds of Eng- land. Sunday night when we were all at dinner on the "Caronia" the engines suddenly stopped throb- A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE 13 bing, and when we went up on deck there were the lights of Liverpool on either side of us, a sky full of stars above, and little lighted steamers scud- ding about. We were to ride at anchor in the harbor all night. A tug brought the Alien Officer on board, and each one of us and our passports had to undergo his scutiny. It was a tedious bus- iness, and as I did not come till near the end of the alphabet he didn't get around to me till after midnight. One thing I have learned already is the immense advantage of belonging to the first of the alphabet. Your future is made or marred by your initial. Monday we were up at five thirty, and finally, after interminable bustle and waiting and crowd- ing, we and our luggage were through the customs. The Y. M. C. A. here weren't expecting us, and were rather overwhelmed at the prospect of hous- ing us. They got accommodations for the first thirty (of the alphabet) at a good hotel. The re- maining sixty-five were sent to a Y. M. C. A. hut called Lincoln Lodge, where one floor of soldiers' barracks was turned over to us. Imagine a huge chill room with brick walls, containing four hun- dred double-decker beds and nothing else. The atmosphere was like a tightly bottled and pre- served London fog. It was raining outside. On each bed was a burlap-hay mattress and a coarse 14 A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE blanket. After lunch downstairs I fixed myself up in my own blankets with my fur coat on top, got very comfortable and had a three hours' rest. Every night I ever spent on the rocky ground at our Mountain Lake stood me in good stead, and I didn't mind my lumpy, "roily" mattress a bit, but it has been hard on many of the girls. That night I slept twelve and a half hours, and woke at nine thirty yesterday much refreshed. In the morning I helped with the dish washing down in the can- teen in the basement; such a filthy place I don't wonder the "flu" spreads. I don't want to begin to criticise so soon, but if I see much more of the conditions I saw there I shall do my little bit to in- stigate a reform, at least where I work. In the afternoon I went with a nice Washington girl, Miss P. and a great enormous Irish officer with a gentle smile and sweet voice, to see a Ger- man submarine in the harbor. It was one of their largest models which has surrendered. We were allowed on board and examined it all. It gave me a strange feeling to be walking that deck and to read the German signs everywhere, and to see those deadly guns, now become the playthings of little boys who swarmed over the boat and up into the gunners' seats. New Year's Eve the Y. M. C. A. made use of all of us girls and gave a dance, five of us furnish- A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE 15 ing the music, I alternately playing my guitar and then using it as a drum, beating it on the back with my ring. It made quite a hit. And really with two violins, ukulele and piano we weren't a half bad orchestra. The "Y" men were immensely grateful as they had searched the town unsuccess- fully for a band. The place was jammed with sol- diers, American, Canadian and British, and really it was a very jolly, nice affair. And now we are on the point of departure for London. Paris, January 12, 19 19. So much has happened since I wrote you from Liverpool and we have all passed through so many moods that I wonder whether I can think back and tell you everything. We left Liverpool for London a hundred strong, the Y. M. C. A. hav- ing reserved enough first class coaches for us all. We were a jolly party in our compartment. I played the guitar and we all sang. We had after- noon tea served at stations and it was all very much like peace times except that the train was not heated at all and was excessively damp and cold, and in the compartments were various signs order- ing the public to keep the shades down after dark and on no account to let any light show. The Eng- lish landscape was beautiful, soft and undulating, but damp looking. That dampness gets into your i6 A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE soul. The trees were brown, without leaves, yet the grass in the fields was vivid green. We arrived in London after dark, about eight p. m. There we were met by some "Y" men, and after the identification of baggage, which with a hundred girls is a desperate affair, we were all loaded into huge trucks or "brakes" as they call them, and carted to our various destinations. About twenty of us were dumped out at the Mel- bourne Hotel, a decidedly God-forsaken place just off Russell Square. There I shared a room with Miss P. an awfully nice Washington girl. If you could see that room! It was desperately cold, and so damp the towels were wet. A broken gas man- tle way up near the ceiling gave a dim greenish light which seemed to mix up with the fog and be- come part of the oppressing atmosphere. We were back in the land of pitcher and bowl and slop jar, and brushing your teeth from a tumbler. Neither of us had heroism enough to bathe, but crawled Into our humid bed with sweaters and warm wrap- pers and bedsocks on, and all the capes and fur coats piled on top. Somehow we shivered our- selves to sleep. The next morning the sun was actually shining. After a sloppy breakfast, we all reported at the Imperial Hotel where we were given instructions on all kinds of things. We were to be sent to Paris A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE 17 in relays just as quickly as possible. In the mean- time London was ours. Miss P., who knew Lon- don, and I went shopping. I was chiefly interested in discovering all evidences of war. London had changed somehow, yet not exactly in the way one might vaguely imagine. Shopes were all thriving apparently. Liberty's windows as entrancing as ever, movement and crowds everywhere. Yet if you observed closely you saw how few automo- biles and taxis there were, though the busses were the same as ever, except that there were women- conductors. The streets were absolutely flooded with men in uniform, soldiers of all kinds. There were many Australians and New Zealanders, tall, lean men with weather-beaten faces and a certain attractive swagger which is augmented by their broad-brimmed hats turned up at one side. Cana- dians were everywhere, and in less numbers, Amer- icans. And of course the British in their splendid uniforms with their unmistakable bearing. I was glad to see so many, many specimens of noble An- glo-Saxons. They seem to me to be the hope of England. The most striking of all are the Scotch; perfect giants of men, in their kilts and plaids, bare knees and all. Then there were many wound- ed, men wearing the blue hospital uniform, with arms and legs gone, heads bandaged, limping forth to get the air ; but most of them smiling. Miss P. 1 8 A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE and I decided that the greatest evidence of the terrible strain of war was in the expression of peo- ple on the street. No one ever smiled. Faces were dull and joyless. Clothes were old. Shoes were shapeless and soggy. Every one seemed hopeless rather than actively sorrowful. And in the keen, blonde faces of the men one sees about Whitehall, the men on the inside of affairs, there was a far-away, set, determined expression. We had arrived in London on New Year's day, Wednesday, and were to leave on Sunday. Sun- day afternoon we were all taken to South Hamp- ton and after interminable business at the customs house we boarded a channel boat for Havre. A smooth passage. At 5.45 a. m. I looked out of the porthole and there was the shore of France, all black, with little lights twinkling and a great white searchlight flashing back and forth over the water. After breakfast, when we went up on deck, the sky was rosy with the approaching sunrise, and suddenly in a burst of glory the sun came out of a golden cloud and warmed us all I It was an inde- scribably beautiful scene. The masts of many ships and all the ropes and rigging against the glowing pink clouds In the sky, the beloved bustle of a harbor, the French language, the smiling French faces, the excitement of arrival at dawn, all made us happy, and I, for one, loved France A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE 19 with all my heart at that moment. Wc were gath- ered on the wharf for some time, where we watched red-capped German prisoners unloading our trunks from the ship. Then, in rows of fours, we were marched up through the muddy streets to the Y. M. C. A. headquarters. There we were given a good, direct talk by the man in charge and were again marched off for an early luncheon. My admiration for the Y. M. C. A. is rising contin- ually. I am proud and thrilled to be a part of it. I am glad I came. "Premiere Classe" coaches were reserved for us on our trip to Paris. We left Havre at noon, closely packed into our compartments. Such won- derful country as we went through 1 We stopped at Rouen and had fine views of the Cathedral, the excited *'Y" girls running from one side of the car to the other in their effort to miss nothing. In the Rouen station a fine old lady was giving cof- fee at a Red Cross canteen. A continuous stream of soldiers in blue came up to her booth. I saw one greenish-coated Italian soldier step up and or- der coffee just as a French soldier was beginning his. The two chinked their cups together, while the shrewd-faced old lady in her flowing Red Cross cap beamed at them. The train then became crowded, and a French soldier came into our compartment. I got to talk- 26 A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE ing with him. He had been a prisoner in Germany ever since August, 19 14, and had been back in France just five days. He was very young, with one of the saddest faces I ever saw. I asked him how he had been treated. He said that he had never seen any cruelty to prisoners, except that the last two years of the war they had been so poorly nourished. Much else he told us about the French attitude toward their allies. I have talked with many French and American boys during this past week and have heard many stories, but they must wait till I get home. Apparently the men in the ranks from Australia, Canada and the United States, get on well with each other and with the French, but they say many things against the Eng- lish. I think this is due to a sort of provincial antipathy on the part of our boys to anything "dif- ferent" from what they are used to. I have run against this attitude in many since I have been here and it seems to me a great pity. Whenever I hear boys talking against the English I am going to try to make them see differently. I have found one exception. Such a nice boy whom I talked with yesterday in the train. He had been in the one U. S. division that fought at Ypres. As he de- scribed the battle line his face was drawn with the horror of it, yet he had to talk about it, and I let him, hoping he would "get it off his chest" that A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE 21 way. "One thing is," he said, "that no one knows what the British have been through in this war. Terrible as the Marne and the Argonne were, Ypres was ten times worse. It was the most fright- ful place on the front, and the British have done wonders In holding it." He told me of many of the horrors, and talked about the wonderful chaplain of his regiment who ministered to the dying boys wherever they fell and who saw to it that the thousands of unburied dead were buried and their identification tags se- cured. He said that you could tell by looking at a Prussian officer that he would stick a knife through a baby ! Then we got to talking about his home In Ohio. When we parted he gave my hand a grip like a vise and said: "You're the first honest-to- goodness American girl I've talked to for fifteen months. I sure won't forget you I" To digress still further, I just want to say that It Is a new and I believe quite wonderful experiment, this sending of the right sort of girls to work and to associate with the boys in the army. War is bad. The herd- ing of men in armies is bad. I have never before realized how much men need good women. It Is up to us to be good, in all the joyous, efficient, and true sense of the word. To return to our trip to Paris. After our sol- dier left us, two nice French women squeezed into 22 A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE our compartment. The train got fuller and fuller. In the corridor a tall English officer sat on his bag and puffed his pipe at us. Next to him three ex- uberant French poilus half lay and half sat all in a heap, their shrapnel helmets, canteens and packs piled about them. There was much laughter and snatches of song among them, and many winks at the English officer who remained supremely indif- ferent to them. One of them smoked two ciga- rettes at a time for our benefit, sometimes puffing one through his nose and the other through his mouth. It was long after dark, and we had had nothing to eat or drink since eleven a. m., and we were all squeezed so tight we couldn't move. At last I offered the officer my large suitcase for a seat, which he accepted. One of the French sol- diers sat on it with him, the ice was broken, and we all had a very delightful time till we got to Paris at midnight. A hasty bite at the canteen, and we were rushed to another station and put on the train for Versailles where a hotel was re- served for us. There we have stayed under very damp and cold conditions, going into Paris every day for more conferences, physical examin- ations, etc. Tomorrow I expect to receive my as- signment. I have no idea where it will be. You should see la Place de la Concorde. All the captured German guns have been gathered A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE 23 there. These great, hideous things fascinate me in a strange way, and I wandered among them the other day examining them. There are hundreds of trench mortars that sent the dreaded "Minnen- wurfer" ; ugly, chunky guns, peculiarly vicious looking. Around the obelisk are arranged the long- distance guns, their gigantic muzzles pointing in the air. Hundreds and hundreds of guns ! As you look toward the Arc de Triomphe the Champs Elysees is lined on both sides with guns close to- gether, all the way. They are all camouflaged, mottled and streaked in green and brown. It is bewildering to look at them. They are the sym- bol, I suppose, of a great indelible mark in the book of history, which later generations will gaze on with curiosity. But now, one little mortal stand- ing in the presence of those recently silenced mouths, can only shiver and go away. It is too soon. January 24th. I have hated to write for the simple reason that I have been having bronchitis. Not serious at all, but I thought a whole ocean between us might make you think it was serious. Really, if I had to be sick, I am lucky to have been here in comfort- able quarters with medical care and no one de- pending on me for work. But it was a nuisance and a delay when I didn't want to be delayed. 24 A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE January 26th. I have been out now, yesterday and to-day and am feeling finely. Here in Paris the "Y" has its own medical staff and all its workers are given the best of care. Out "in the field" we come under the army doctor's care. But I don't expect to need any such care. I have received my assign- ment which is Semur, somewhere near Dijon. All I can find out about it is that there is mud and that I "shall be on my own resources and initiative a good deal." They must have some confidence in me. Oh, I am so eager to get to work! It is wonderful to be in Paris just now, even though one must stay indoors. I find the French newspapers intensely interesting and read them from cover to cover. A truly lofty spirit runs through them all. The men who write the editor- ials are certainly spiritual leaders, public teachers and guides. I keep running across things I want to send to you just to show what an elevating force a newspaper can be. It is because they, with every other industry, have been working for the salvation of their country. And yet — Europe is blind. Never has there been such need for understanding of economics and Christian strength. Thank heaven, some of the leaders of the Peace Conference seem to possess both I Yesterday I passed one of the "mutiles de la A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE 25 guerre." He had no legs. He was propelling himself by his hands and arms in a sort of bicycle, crossing the street valiantly. A steamer rug de- cently wrapped around him concealed his deform- ity. He was in his uniform. The machine struck the curb and stopped. He could not force it over. How happy I was to be there for just that moment 1 I easily lifted him and helped him over. He thanked me with sweet French courtesy, and he went on, and I went on; but his gentle, thin, suffering face I One sees almost none of the terrible results of war in Paris. London was far, far worse. I am told that the French Government has provided other places for "les mutiles." Instead, all over Paris are sturdy bands of little "poilus," march- ing in their extremely supple order. And many times a day squads of French cavalry go clatter- ing under my window. The reserves are being demobilized and they are everywhere. Pouillenay, France, February 7, 19 19. Dearest Family: If I have let more than a week go by since my last letter please forgive me. These have been days full of events, and in the brief intervals between events I have had to rest in order to keep a fuU supply of energy on 26 A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE tap for the occasion to come. When one Is the only woman among some 1500 men, one must not slump. But I'll tell you all about it. On the Monday after I wrote you last, the doctor signed my release and things began to move. I was to go to Semur, in Burgundy. I knew no more about it than that. Tuesday, at 2.30 I was to pull out of the Gare de Lyons. In order to travel in France which Is all under military rule, a great many documents, tickets, and identification papers are necessary, and It takes a great deal of labor and patience to pro- cure them all. The Y. M. C. A. office in Paris is an enormous and hectic place, with its various departments poorly co-ordinated; so I, like every one else, did a great deal of running up and down stairs and much retracing of steps before every- thing concerning baggage, tickets, money, equip- ment, mail, etc., was attended to. Tuesday morning, I and my baggage were at the station two hours ahead of train-time as I had been warned was necessary. There I received the joy- ful news that there was no 2.30 train to Semur. That there was one at nine in the evening and an- other at 7.00 a. m. I had been in France long enough not to be upset by a mere trifle like that, so I set about registering my baggage and attend- ing to the dozens of things that are necessary at A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE 27 the station. A most delightful old porter was my guide, counsellor and friend, leading me through the maze of red tape with unfaltering steps. I entrusted all my handbaggage to him for the night, which would seem rash to all who hadn't looked in- to his shrewd and kindly face. And then I walked back into Paris with only a toothbrush in my pocket. After reporting my delay at headquar- ters, who scowled at me for their mistake, I got a room at the Hotel Richepanse, near the Place de la Concorde. Rooms are hard to find in Paris these days, and I had to do a good deal of wander- ing before I secured this one. I was glad I didn't have my copious and heavy luggage. After a good rest, I did a little frivolous shopping, including a fetching and most unmilitary hat. Heaven knows when 1 shall wear it, but it folds up flat and I couldn't resist it. And I had supper with a harm- less little "Y" girl and went to bed early. The next morning at 5.30 I crept down six flights of stairs in the pitch dark. By the light of a candle in the lobby an old woman gave me a cup of black coffee and a hunk of bread. I drank the coffee and took the bread and went out into the blue black of just-before-dawn. The street was de- serted, and I munched my bread as I hurried along. My adventure was beginning ! Arriving at La Place de la Concorde I could see the obelisk 28 A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE and the yawning guns silhouetted against the light- ing sky. I went down into the Metro and in time arrived at the station. My dear old porter was outside looking for me. We got the bags and gui- tar, and he Installed me in a first class compart- ment where there were already two French officers. With much courteous fuss, room was made for me and the bags were stowed away on top. Then I asked the porter to buy for me the "Echo de Paris" paying him for all he had done. We wait- ed for some time, and the officer sitting next to me, an elderly gentleman in a great bearskin coat over his uniform, offered me his paper, saying, "He will never bring you yours, Mademoiselle; you have too much confidence in these men." "Oh, I am sure he will bring it," I replied. "II a ete si aim- able pour mol tout le temps;" which made both men smile and shrug their shoulders. The whistle blew, the train jerked, when sud- denly the door opened and there was the fat old porter all out of breath with my newspaper. "Voila, Mademoiselle I" he cried, flourishing it at me." They didn't have the Echo in the station and I had to go way up the street for it." And the Frenchmen cheered! Two nice American officers came into our com- partment and we all had breakfast together in the dining-car. Everybody talks to everybody else in A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE 29 France now. They got off the train in an hour or so, and I was left to the mercies of the French army which immediately started a rapid cross-fire of conversation with me as the target. In reality we, or at least I, had an awfully good time and they told me many amusing and interesting things which I can't tell you because I foresee that this letter Is going to be horribly long. At two o'clock I got off at a God-forsaken little junction called Les Laumes. My spirits were high, however, because all around were snow-covered beautiful hills, patches of woods, and winding roads outlined by slender poplars with bunches of green mistletoe growing way up in their branches. There are many Americans billeted at Les Laumes. Poor boys! A big M. P. (military po- liceman) met me at the station. The M. P. is your salvation if you are honest and your terror if you are not. This was a tall, powerful, bushy- eyebrowed young westerner. He picked up my bags as if they were nothing at all and escorted me to the restaurant. How can I ever begin to describe to you the sweetness and the fineness of our boys over herd I am proud, proud of America. I love the real spirit of her which these boys have preserved and strengthened in these little villages way off in France. You think I ought to work with children. 30 A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE But I tell you these boys are children ; wonderfully powerful and dexterous children; and I play and work with them as though they were children, and we have had happy times together. I see now what there is for me to do. I pray that I may do it, in order to help them and be worthy of them during these difficult, tedious, dangerous days of waiting, with nothing to do. But to return to my nice M. P. with the bushy eyebrows. He got me an army car to take me to Semur, with a soft-voiced Southerner to run it. It was a delightful ride of twenty miles or so through chilly country glistening with snow; and all the time the boy talked of home in Mis- sissippi, and his mother, and what he wanted to do when he got back. He took me to the Y. M. C. A. headquarters at Semur. There I met Mr. M. of Salem, Mass., who is my chief. It seems that Semur is the centre of all Y. M. C. A. activ- ities with the 78th Division which did much heroic fighting all along the front. Mr. M. is a delight- ful gentleman and a real man. He has been with the boys in the midst of the fighting. We had a good talk. He finally decided to send me to Pouillenay with the 2nd Battalion of the 311th Infantry, 78th Division. "This is an experiment. Miss Shortall," he said. "You will be the only American woman in the town. The town is off A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE 31 the main line and the boys have not had their share of comforts and amusements. The "Y" has run to the dogs. Everything Is gloomy. Do you want the job?" I said It was just what I wanted. The next morning a nice "Y" man put me and my baggage into a car and ran me over to Poulllenay about ten miles over the hills. Pouillenay is a tiny, peaked-roofed village of mud and stones, with a river babbling through its centre where the women wash and the geese wade, and old stone bridges span it. All about are hills, lovely hills. In this French setting, place 1500 American boys in khaki! They are everywhere 1 The dazed and stupefied old na- tives wandering around in their wooden shoes are in the minority. The crooked streets resound to American voices, American jokes and songs, and huge U. S. trucks go thundering over the ancient cobblestones, while the insulted geese go to the side of the road looking so wrathfuUy dignified and stately that I laugh every time I see them, and the black and white speckled hens shriek and run for their lives in all directions, often into the houses whose doors are on the level with the street. This town was to be my home. I was left in the care of Lieutenant Robinson, who has been most kind to me, as every one else has been. 32 A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE (I'll send you descriptions of my friends here after I discover who censors the mail!) Billets were found for me at the house of Mme. and M. Gloriod, the nicest old couple that ever were. I have a tiny room with a tiny stove, which nevertheless eats lots of wood. Madame Cloriod, energetic and kindhearted, rosy-cheeked and jolly, brings a delicious breakfast to me every morning and lights my fire. Talk about luxury I And I eat it in leisure from the depths of my vol- uminous bed. (More undeserved good luck, mother 1) And all this costs me about three francs a day. My regular "mess" aside from breakfast is at Battalion Headquarters, presided over by Major S. who they say was a well known New York lawyer before the war. He is in every way a cultivated gentleman admired by the whole battalion. He has been extremely kind to me, making me feel quite at home. At his mess are six other officers, lieutenants of various colors. I have also dined with the officers of the other companies and it is very jolly. But I am not here for the gay life; don't believe it. My head- quarters is the Y canteen, a miserable little room with a counter, a stove, and rough benches around it. The men pour in here and smoke and talk. My guitar is at their disposal and they use it. Often I play it and we have real sings. My third A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE 33 night, while a group of us were singing, Corporal Johnson, of F Company, huge and sandy-haired, and Corporal Martin, stalwart and handsome, burst into the crowded room followed by other members of F Co. "Clear the way!" shouted Corporal Martin, making his way toward me, and then with a sweeping bow and with a grand manner he invited me to "mess" with the men of the best platoon of the best company of the best battalion of the best etc., etc., on the fol- lowing evening. Of course I accepted on the spot. "Now shall we give the lady a song?" said Sergeant Riggs, stepping out. And they sang. They raised the roof! Great songs they were too. Then I was presented with a mess kit just like the soldiers and with mock solemnity was given a lesson in how to use it. Then I re- hearsed it for their benefit, my purposeful blun- ders calling forth roars of laughter. The next evening they called for me. In army style we marched snappily through the streets to F Co. mess hall, a long wooden building with dirt floor. I was placed in the front row with a corporal on either side to keep me in position. The mess was a real and delicious feast. Those boys had contributed extra to it, and a whole pig had been roasted, not to mention caldrons of vegetables, jelly-cake, doughnuts, and coffee — 34 A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE sweetened coffee 1 I drank a quart of it at least. Then Sergeant RIggs, a humorous character and my staunch friend now, gave a speech welcoming me to Pouillenay. I can tell you it made the tears come to my eyes, these men, so chivalrous, so unreserved in their welcome of a woman into their midst; and I dedicated myself there and then to them, resolved to do everything in my power to make their stay here brighter and bet- ter. But the biggest thing that I do is not of my doing at all; it lies in simply being a woman. You really wouldn't laugh if you were over here and saw these boys hungering for love and for home. Well, of course I answered the sergeant's speech, and then there was cheering and then sing- ing. Corporal Martin then stepped forward and said in his oratorical manner. "We have now come to the conclusion of this ceremony, which con- sists in your washing your mess kit." Roars of laughter I I was placed in the line and we all moved up to the garbage pail; next, to a huge tank of decidedly greasy hot water into which we plunged our mess kits; then on to a kettle of rinsing water where we gave them another dip. That being over, I was invited to a show given by one of the other companies in one of the mess halls, and as there was half an hour to spare, it was decided that we have a parade through the A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE 35 town. Of course it was dark by this time. So with a sergeant taking one arm and a corporal the other, we marched and marched, singing all the time, through the little black streets, up the hill and round the church and down again, over the bridge and back to the mess hall where the show awaited us. "Now you can write home that you have marched with the American army," said Sergeant Riggs. On another day I happened to be passing when F Co. was drilling. The sergeant insisted that I join the ranks. So with a rifle I blundered through the drill, my mistakes causing much merriment. I really have been doing a little work; don't worry. I have been cook and nurse for three boys with influenza, two in their gloomy billets and the other in a cold, damp house. That has taken a good deal of time. Also the Y. M. C. A. has just put up a large tent to be used instead of its present Inadequate quarters and I, with the help of many boys, have been fixing it up. On Wednesday I went to Semur on a shopping tour, riding in on an open limber drawn by mules. The driver told me those mules had delivered many loads of rations to the boys in the front trenches by night and had been through gas and shell fire of the worst kind. It seems that mules can stand much more than horses. At the Semur Y. M. C. A. I was able to 36 A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE get flags and posters, tables and benches for our tent, which were loaded on to the limber. The next day we set to work on our interior decorating. Never did the hanging of magnificent paintings in a rich mansion receive more consideration than the placing of our French and American posters. Symmetry is the rule of the army! If I put a pic- ture on one side of the tent, it was absolutely neces- sary to put one of the same size exactly opposite. At the end of the long tent are the French and American flags crossed, and under them, cut with painstaking care from a 19 17 Liberty Loan pos- ter, hangs the Liberty Bell with the words "Ring it Again" above. A wreath of smilax gathered from the woods encircles each electric light. Really it is very pretty and gay. But there is a big draw- back; the dampness. The floor is covered with damp sawdust, and one little stove burning green wood is not enough to dry it. The captain of the Supply Co. has promised another stove, but until it comes and has been kept burning several days we can't think of moving in. I have my heart set on making it the brightest and warmest spot in town. Wine and cognac shops are my strong competitors. I must get busy. How would you like to send all your copies of "Life" and any other magazines to me instead of to the great unknown? They would be greatly ap- A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE 37 predated in Pouillenay. And here's a novel sug- gestion from a "highbrow Shortall." Papa, (I exempt Mamma), won't you invite H. and M. to every musical comedy that comes along, and when- ever you hear a song that is new and good and snappy, send me the music "toot sweet" as the boys say. Feb. 14th. On the other side of this card I have marked my present home on "Main Street." If you follow this road over the hills you come to the heights where Vercingetorix of the Gauls made his last stand against Julius Caesar. This is historical country. Where javelins and arrows once flew thick, hordes of Americans are now living, the lat- est liberators of these old vineyards. And almost on the site of a pagan temple stands the Y. M. C. A. tent where a twentieth century priestess from Chicago hands out cigarettes and plays ragtime. We are in our tent and drawing crowds. One of these streets is called "La rue des Qua- tres Fonts." It is as pretty as its name, but the American boys don't see any beauty in any of it, and I can't blame them. All they care about is "God's own country." I do hope for their sakes that the Division will be ordered to move soon. I am happy and well, and spring is in the air. 38 A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE Feb. 1 8th. Here is another view of our tiny town. Just at present everything is buried under most fearful and wonderful mud. I never stir without my arc- tics. I am glad I brought two pairs. Yesterday being Sunday, I made about forty gallons of hot chocolate which I served in the tent all the afternoon. It was a rainy day and you should have seen the men pile in and gather round the huge army caldron with their cups. The tent was warm and cheerful and it was all very jolly. The day before I had a new experience. I rode over to Semur in a side-car or "wife-killer" as they call them; you know, those little basket affairs at- tached to a motor-cycle. The Catholic chaplain who is also a young lieutenant, drove it, and we went about forty miles an hour over hill and dale. He was officiating at a funeral in Semur, while I bought cups, dishpans, and various other utensils for our chocolate outfit. I packed them all into the side-car and you should have heard our load jingle and clatter as we whizzed back over the rough road! Feb. 23rd. Yesterday (Saturday afternoon) I walked with three officers to the town of Alise, about five miles from Pouillenay. It is a most picturesque little vil- A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE 39 lage on the hillside. Above it on the top of the hill is an enormous statue of Vercingetorix. It is here that he made his last stand against Cassar. On the top of the hill are the ruins of a Roman village; a small coliseum, a temple with several beautiful col- ums still standing, baths, aqueducts, and all the paraphernalia of first class ruins. The three lieu- tenants I went with are very jolly, nice men, and we poked and pried into everything in most irrev- erent and frivolous spirit. One of them, Lieut. McK., a very young Princeton fellow, had recent- ly studied up the ruins and kept giving information about them in highbrow manner. Every statement he made was immediately challenged by the others, and great betting contests arose as to the depth of wells, Roman methods of heating water, etc., all with the continuous stream of jokes that congenial Americans keep up when they are off for a good time. These were the officers of F Co., 31 ith In- fantry, who have been very cordial to me. r March ist, 19 19. Again a full, full week has slipped past, and I haven't even begun to tell you of the week before that. Such a life as I have gotten myself into! If I had any time to ponder at all I might get dizzy, but luckily there is nothing for me to do except use my wits and go on. Since I last wrote 40 A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE you I have been from ballet dancer on the mess hall stage to mother-confessor and staid counsel- lor of homesick boys. I have been cook and dish- washer, both on a wholesale scale, and I have been hostess at an officers' ball. I must tell you about the ballet dancing because it was such fun. I didn't want Valentine's day to go by without some little celebration, so I got the sergeants of the various companies together to see if we couldn't get up an impromptu stunt show. Everybody joined in enthusiastically, and in the afternoon we had an uproarious rehearsal in the Supply Co. Mess Hall which is also the Pouillenay theatre. A few violins and two drums were scraped together, and in half an hour we had a little orchestra playing such contagious rag- time that every one was jigging and beating time and cutting all sorts of capers. These boys went simply wild over the first music they had heard in months. The orchestra with the aid of a tooth- less old piano did wonders. There is lots of tal- ent buried in khaki ! The snare drum rolled finely, and another snare drum with the mem- brane loosened played the part of a rather pudgy, indecisive bass drum. It didn't matter I One boy made an ingenious whistle out of his mess kit, and trilled and whistled, generally playing the part of piccolo, giving life to the orchestra. The rehear- A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE 41 sal, if it didn't put the finishing touches on our performance, at least was jolly good fun and filled us with invincible self-confidence for the evening. I had arranged a Valentine tableau for the end, and Mme. Gloriod at home had pinned hundreds of paper flowers on my gray steamer rug in the form of a huge heart. I had even written a senti- mental poem which I was to read aloud, and on the whole it was to be a very pretty valentine, when suddenly, about six o'clock came the news that a Y. M. C. A. moving picture show had come to town and would have the mess hall that even- ing. Our show was off. I was disappointed, es- pecially since the movie machine broke down in the middle of the performance and couldn't be fixed. However, we decided to give our show on the following Monday. And we did. And a ripping good show it was ! It went off with snap and the audience was gratlfyingly appreciative. Imagine the long, narrow mess hall with its dirt floor, board tables and benches, crowded and packed with soldiers. The light was dim and the air thick with tobacco smoke. At one end is the rough board stage with army blankets pinned up for curtains. Below the stage was the orchestra, all alert for its first performance, and back of the curtains were we, the actors, packed in pretty tight, amid all the excitement and bustle and fun 42 A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE of the moment before the curtain rises. There was I, alone, among all those great rough men I Yet I don't know why I should call them rough. More sweet consideration was never shown any one than was shown me that evening. My over- shoes were taken off; a chair was placed for me in the "wings"; as soon as I finished my part my coat was put on and buttoned up for me; and in a thousand httle ways these boys took care of me. I did two dances for them. One was a scarf dance that I made up to the "Missouri Waltz," and then the 'good old cachuca, arranged for an- other waltz. I had to adapt my dances to the available music. Of course I won an easy tri- umph, having no competitors, and being the first girl they had seen on the stage for many a day. There's no danger of my getting vain; don't worry. The other stunts ranged from the comic to the serious. All were loudly applauded. Some were awfully good. One sensitive-faced boy played the violin. He had been gassed on the front and had completely lost his voice. It seem- ed as though he put everything he could not say into that three-dollar violin, such a beautiful, liv- ing tone he got. The miserable instrument, the acoustics of the rude mess hall and the janghng piano accompaniment could not detract from the real music he gave us, and the crowd, recognizing A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE 43 it to be real, whistled and clapped and demanded more. Two nights after, we repeated our show, and this time the Major honored us with his presence and said many nice things to us after- ward. Since this show, the battalion orchestra has be- come an institution. I have made several trips to Semur in search of instruments. The last time I came back in the Major's side-car in the pouring rain with two cornets, a saxophone and a flute packed in around me under the blankets. These were given me by the Entertainment Department at General Headquarters, after nearly an hour's arguing to convince them that they were needed. It is a great addition. Now the orchestra plays al- ways at the movies when they come to town, about twice a week, and last Friday they played at our dance. I will tell you about that. I thought it was about time to do something for the officers, as they need fun just as much as the enlisted men, so I proposed a dance. "Where will you get the girls?" they said. "The Red Cross nurses in Semur," said I. "There is no hall here large enough for a dance," said they. "Yes there is!" said I. Mme. Gloriod had told me of a wooden floor made to fit over the tank in the vil- lage "lavoir," which the mayor of Pouillenay had had made in the happy days before the war. The 44 A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE lavoir is a good-sized stone structure with a large tank of soapy water in the middle, round which the women scrub and pound their clothes, gossip- ing, laughing and scolding all the day long in their raucous French. It is not easy to imagine an up-to- date American dance in this mediaeval, sloppy spot. The Major and a few other optimists backed me up and told me to go ahead. After more or less trouble I got the Red Cross nurses and four or five "Y" girls from various towns committed to last Thursday evening. One lieutenant engaged the Semur orchestra, which is several months older and more professional than ours. Then I made a memorable call on the Mayor of Pouillenay, M. Champenois, a delightful, impressive old French- man. I found him in the parlor of his little stone house seated at a huge desk; his sweet little wife, with black lace in her hair, tending the fire. They made me come in and sit down, and an hour went by in the discussion of art, literature, and the af- fairs of the world, before they would let me ap- proach the business of the day. When finally I did make my errand known, he granted me the lavoir free of charge, undertaking to have the floor put down himself. We parted the best of friends. Then followed two days of real work; scrub- bing, heating, and decorating and lighting the la- A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE 45 voir. To make a long story short, it was charm- ing when we got through. Evergreens, flags, can- dles and four electric lights softened and illumi- nated the dank old place, while two stoves made it reasonably dry and warm. The floor was sprin- kled with cornmeal. And the dance was a real suc- cess- lots of fun, and also with somethmg distin- guished and graceful about it. It was what you might call "a real lace party," though the only lace on the scene were the festoons of ancient cobwebs that swayed from the big oaken rafters high above the reach of the longest broom. As the atmosphere of a battalion radiates from its commanding offi- cer, I give Major S. the credit for that unmistak- able "touch" that marked our dance. No sooner off with one dance than I began plot- ting another. It seemed too bad that the enlisted men shouldn't have a chance, and the lavoir all decorated and ready. Major S. gave me permis- sion, and M. Champenois generously allowed mc to keep the lavoir another evening. Where to get the girls? The Red Cross nurses are allowed to dance only with officers. I went to Mme. Gloriod, who helps me out on every proposition. She made me a list of the names of about thirty French girls, the "four hundred" of Pouillenay, so to speak, and in the afternoon, with two dear little girls to guide me, I interviewed the stern mammas of the said 46 A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE damsels, assuring them it was "comme il faut," urging them to come. About ten accepted, many of the others being in mourning or else sick. Or- ders were sent to three companies of the battalion, inviting them, making it clear that each was to have one hour of dancing, then was to leave, giving the next a chance. That was the only way we could manage. Whew 1 didn't they come I At sev- en the hall was packed with Supply Co. men, and a good many others that had no business there, de- spite the vigilant guard at the door. The French girls came. Our valiant orchestra struck up. We whirled; we bumped into each other; we Virginia- reeled ; we circled ; and — the hour was up. All too quick! The men, intoxicated by this taste of fun, refused to leave. The guards could not clear the room. Low, discontented mutterings were heard. "The officers danced all night, why can't we?" "We'll break your whole show up if you make us go." "We'll take all the girls off with us." "We'll stay as long as we like." I was angry. It was a moment that required all my tact. I didn't want the evening to break up in a riot. I didn't want to call an officer if I could help it. But they would not go. All the French girls got scared and began coming up to me to say they must go home. I in- duced them to stay, somehow. I was on the point of calling off the whole dance there and then, when A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE 47 the thought of my dear F Company waiting quietly outside to get in, made me suddenly resolve to put the thing through. I talked to the boys, putting it up to their sense of fair play, and thank goodness, most of them filed out. F Company came in and the dance went on with increased gusto. The hour was up — I called it out; — quietly, like one man F Co. marched out on the minute and E Co. came in. I can tell you my heart warmed toward F Co. that stood by me from the beginning! E. Co. was fine too, and when the dance was over they escorted me home and gave me a cheer of thanks. And the next morning, by eleven o'clock, the French women in their sabots and dirty petticoats were kneeling round the soapy water in the lavoir, doubtless chattering about the last two nights' events. March i8th. Innumerable interruptions ! It doesn't seem possible that ten days have slipped by since this letter was begun, and I apologize for letting them. Meanwhile I have been doing everything under the sun. One of my latest jobs is that of bandmaster. I am coaching and coaxing and im- ploring three coronets, two clarinets, one saxa- phone and a trombone, not to mention the old piano, to become friends instead of deadliest ene- 48 A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE mies. Nothing but implicit faith in the ultimate triumph of harmony over discord has enabled me to survive the shrieks and grunts and clashings of our rehearsals. I have had to orchestrate and write out all the music myself, and incidentally I am acquiring some interesting and practical knowledge of "the brasses." It is great fun. As soon as they are good enough I will annex them to our string orchestra. Indeed I have already promoted one clarinet player, a cunning little Ital- ian, who now ripples away among the violins. Our Sunday afternoon chocolate parties are very gay now. We bring over the rattle-top piano from the mess hall to the tent and the or- chestra plays all afternoon. The tent is packed with soldiers, most of whom I know pretty well by this time. Near the entrance am I in my blue Y. M. C. A. apron, and my assistants, making kettleful after kettleful of delicious chocolate. I am very careful to have it delicious. The boys line up and we hand them out cupfuls, and cakes, which they take back to the tables and drink at their leisure while listening to the music or playing checkers. All the little French boys in town con- gregate round the chocolate caldron and all are eager to help in any way, well knowing what their reward will be. I keep them busy too, and before the afternoon is over each one has a "chocolatey" A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE 49 little mouth and a broad smile and nothing but "kind feelings" for the Americans. I am good friends with these little fellows in their pinafores and wooden shoes. Yesterday I played tag with them, and what a clatter they made in their un- gainly sabots, which nevertheless did not prevent their running outrageously fast when I was "it." Spring is coming. Every morning I listen to the unfamiliar songs of strange birds. Yet they speak the sweet message that needs no interpret- ing. Occasionally we have a fair day between the rainy ones, and how fair it is ! On one of these days I went for a wonderful horseback ride with a fine young artillery lieutenant about Hy's age. We cantered gloriously over open fields. We climbed up a high hill. There we were among rocks and ferns and pines, birds warbling about us, skylarks singing out of sight, the warm sun on us, and behind and beyond the graceful, harmon- ious view of the long valley with the canal, fring- ed with poplars, glinting through it, and the culti- vated, nicely outlined fields, each a different shade of green, stretching far up the opposite hillside. Well, I mustn't spend any more time on the scenery, for I will either bore you or make Mamma envious. Here comes another interruption I I am really feeling very well. I am very happy. Every one is more than kind to me. I am con- vinced I did the right thing to come. so A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE Pouillenay, April ist. It is a beautiful bright morning. All is serene in the Y. M. C. A. tent, a few boys writing home and a little group huddled round the stove wait- ing to go through the "Delouser," a monstrous machine which steamed into town this morning. This is in preparation for GOING HOME, for the 78th has received its orders and will probably leave Pouillenay about April i6th. There is an atmosphere of excitement throughout the town. The longed-for news has come and nothing can surpass the supreme happiness of these homesick boys, who have endured so much heroically, and yet who are so like children. Orders have come that the Y. M. C. A. workers are to move with the Division, so I am to have my first experience of army travel. I am certainly glad that I am to be allowed to go along. I would be broken-heart- ed if I had to leave my battalion while they were still in France. Many, many things have been happening since I last wrote. Last week the Lightning Division underwent inspection by General Pershing. The review was held in Les Laumes, and I went over to see it. I had not realized before what an im- mense body of men an Army Division is. On the vast muddy field stood, motionless, ranks and ranks of khaki-clad soldiers, their protective col- A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE 51 oring blending with the green-brown of the field. Here and there the Stars and Stripes and the vivid blue and red of the Infantry and Artillery flags made bright spots on the monotonous brown scene. General Pershing arrived an hour late, an Im- pressive military figure on his beautiful horse. The inspection lasted almost two hours. Then he presented the D. S. M. to about fifty men, pinning the medal on each, and shaking each by the hand. The band played the Star Spangled Banner, and the whole vast body stood rigidly at Attention. The sun came out, making the scene brilliant and lighting up a lovely white village on the top of the hill in the background. It was very beautiful. The General next went up into the grand stand and the review began, which means that the whole Division marched past. The Infantry came first in their orderly files, dipping their colors as they went by. Then came the Artillery in its seeming magnificent disorder. The great horses plunging, caissons rattling, drivers holding the reins taut, scarlet flags fluttering, it galloped over the muddy, bumpy field with a wonderful rush. This was fol- lowed by the Motorized Artillery which came out of the woods like a swarm of huge creeping bee- tles. Weird monsters they were, and their deafen- ing rattle reached us at a distance like some great 52 A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE magnified buzz. General Pershing gave a speech next, but I couldn't stand up a minute longer so I left, one of the officers who had also had enough taking me back in his car. So when our boys came marching back at 8.30 that evening, after eleven and a half hours on their feet, I was able to greet them with hot chocolate and cakes in the tent, to their great satisfaction. Let's see ; what else have I been doing? I have been cooking simple meals regularly for the sick boys in the infirmary, and feeding one of them who is too weak to sit up. Then my knowledge of dressmaking has been taxed to the limit, for I was called upon to make a stylish gown for the lady in the battalion show; the lady being a tall and ex- tremely lanky man. We have had lots of fun out of it. We are told that our show is the best in the Division, and it is now touring the whole area, playing every evening. Often I go with them, just for fun, and to dress the lady. We have good times, singing as we tour the country in the two big ambulances that the army provides for our trans- portation. The boys treat me like their sister. Of course I am most needed in Pouillenay In the evenings, and that is where I usually am, doing my utmost to bring amusement and gaiety into the tent. I fly from one thing to another. I get the chocolate made, forty gallons or so, (that's the A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE 53 easiest thing I do, Mamma 1) then I give two men the job of serving it while I fly for my guitar, tune it up, spend a lot of energy coaxing some bashful soul to play, perhaps getting some one to play the mandolin too, then organizing a Virginia reel or a square dance. It invariably takes coaxing, ca- joling, insisting, to get them started, and then they get going, and we dance and swing our partners and grand right and left on the dirt floor, a helpful crowd of bystanders clapping their hands, whist- ling and singing in syncopated rhythm. Then us- ually the music gives out, and I take the guitar and play anything and everything I know. Jigs, reels, Italian and Russian tunes, all call forth some re- sponse from this cosmopolitan army of ours, and we have songs and dances of all nationalities. What scenes that guitar of mine has taken part in since you gave it to me fourteen years ago ! Need- less to say, I am glad I brought it with me, though it will always be the worse for wear as a result. Last night the Supply Co. gave a party in honor of its commander, formerly Captain W. who has just been made a major. He is a great old char- acter, much beloved by his men. The banquet was a surprise to him. The mess hall was crowded with men, while on the stage the oflicers' table was set. They had invited me and I went in dancing costume prepared to perform after dinner. The 54 A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE regimental band was there and played continu- ously. I wish you could have seen the bass drum! It had the kaiser's portrait painted on it, so that every time the drummer beat it he hit the kaiser on the head. No wonder he played with spirit! It is a first-class brass band and I found it rather thrilling to dance to it. I can tell you the main events that happen, but the real things, the chance meetings in sympathy, the gripping handclasp, the halting story of disap- pointment, the seeking for a little mothering, and yes, for love too — these things I cannot write. I can only give and withhold sympathy as it seems right, and pray and strive to be very true and very clear and very strong. Oh, but it's easy to make chocolate ! Pouillenay, France, Monday, April 14th, 19 19. Just a line this morning before I get up, that be- ing the only way I can get a word in edgewise. Once up and dressed, my time is no longer my own; but safe in bed, I am mistress of myself, and though I may be interrupted every ten minutes, the unarguable helplessness of my position is my great protection, and nothing but my conscience can move me. The first hour or so of day is the only time I reserve for myself. It Is only thus that T A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE 55 ever see a newspaper, that my hair gets sham- pooed, clothes mended, or that you occasionally get a letter. This is the time when the men are out drilling or working on the roads, and the tent is empty, so I take advantage of it. Interruption. By conscience ! There is nothing to do about it. I must get up. April 17th. You have asked about the Americans' attitude toward the French. In general it is not flatter- ing. Though I don't sympathize at all with the boys in this feeling toward the French, whom I love, yet I see perfectly how it has come about. It springs from the limitations of both nations. Our boys are terribly homesick and restless. Sep- arated by time and distance from their country, they have come to glorify it even more than it deserves. Coming for the most part from thriv- ing towns and farms, accustomed to work, but with the most modern appliances, they are dis- gusted by the lack of sanitation and the primitive methods of the peasants in these tiny old villages. It is the contempt of young, pressing, large-scale methods of getting results, for ancient, tranquil ways. It is our fierce elimination of waste versus their huge quantity of tiny savings. Nor is our efficiency more materialistic than this French 56 A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE thrift, though each appears sordid to the other. We are different, that is all. We are both greedy. And then our soldiers meet mostly the worst sort of French girl, which gives them a bad im- pression of the country. Also, the French are making money off of us for all they are worth. Not the authorities, perhaps, but the people, in all their transactions. It is, in truth, rather dis- gusting and ungrateful of them, but perfectly in- evitable after the glowing descriptions of the wealth of America which they continually hear, and since our boys will pay almost anything for what they want, and since they are foolish enough to buy tawdry and worthless souvenirs by the thousands at ridiculously high prices. And then again, we never see an example of fine, strong, and young French manhood. We see the poor old tottering men and the degenerate. Once in a while a French soldier comes through town, and he is usually a poor specimen. We for- get that our towns would be equally desolate if we had been at war four years. It is difficult for this army of simple, honest, normal boys to imagine what they have not seen. Also the weather gets on everybody's nerves. You are inclined to despise anybody so poor-spirited as to settle down and live in such a climate. This continuous, everlasting, never-ending cold rain A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE 57 taxes your temper to the limit. And yet, many very sweet friendships have sprung up between our soldiers and the old women in whose houses they are billeted, their "French mothers" as they call them. And I feel perfectly sure that when they all get home and the dream of America has come true — or perhaps hasn't come true — they will look back on France with real affection and with a little sense of ownership; and they will think of even their discomforts with pleasure. This has been their big adventure; but since they are not bent just now upon reading the book of their own lives, they don't know it. Paris, May nth, 1919. Another shift of scene. Oh, what a change it isl Back to Paris! back to the world, some might say, but — deserted by my family who are now joyously on the water going home. Gone are those happy, remarkable days in darling Pouil- lenay, gone my beloved Battalion of khaki-clad boys, and left behind is the peaceful, beautiful countryside of the Cote d'Or with its white cattle on the green hills, its ducks and its chickens, its skylarks, and its dear population in sabots. It has been impossible to send you anything but postal cards the last few weeks because I have been so busy. Also the 78th's post office was dis- 58 A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE organized owing to preparations for moving, so I must go back a long way if I am to give you any idea of what has been happening. Let's see. The day before Easter the sun came out. Ser- geant R. and I went out to gather flowers for Easter decorations for the tent. The fields were covered, fairly sparkling, with little yellow prim- roses too pretty for words. And in the wet places were masses of delicate lavender flowers. Brooks gurgling, sprays of wild fruit blossoms in the hedges, everything juicy and green and radiant. After weeks of rain the sun had actually broken forth to glorify it all. We filled baskets with a feathery mixture of gold and lavender, this sweet- natured, devoted boy and myself, and we had a good time. The next morning, Easter Day, I was up very early, and by breakfast time the tent was a per- fect bower of flowers. It was really lovely. And the surprise and pleasure of the boys! "Seems as though we was back home!" "I forgot all about its being Easter!" "Say, I never thought we could have Easter in France !" And one boy who kept hanging round all day taking it all in, said, "What'd you go to all that trouble for? It's no use doing that over here." Yet he was back every morning to watch me arrange the flow- ers, for I kept them always in the tent after that, A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE 59 and the little French children would bring me fresh ones. On Easter morning an open air memorial ser- vice had been planned in honor of those in the Battalion who had been killed. The day was beautiful. The Battalion assembled in a beauti- ful little field on the outskirts of the town, the four companies drawn up facing each other. The choir, which I had drilled, composed of about twenty men, stood together. A platform had been built in the centre, from which Major S., always fine, gave a splendid short address. The chaplain then delivered a sermon, less impressive. The choir sang "Rock of Ages," which was quite solemnly beautiful. Next the roll was called, which was astonishingly long. It was a strain on those standing ranks of boys to hear the names of their dead comrades, and the tears were coursing down many cheeks. The choir sang "My Faith Looks Up To Thee." Taps were sounded, fol- lowed by a roll of drums. There was a moment of tense silence. Then to the relief of all, the little Battalion Band struck up a quickstep and the Companies marched off cheerily. It was truly a beautiful service, and the warm sun and birds warbling in the trees gave it an added sweetness. It meant a great deal to the men. After the service I walked back to the tent with 6o A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE the Colonel and the Major, who came in and ad- mired my decorations as much as I could wish. In the afternoon was a thrilling baseball game be- tween our Battalion and the ist Battalion of the 312th Infantry. (Baseball has been our great amusement of late. ) I slipped away before it was over to get my kettle boiling, so that after- ward I had hot chocolate and cakes for all the boys that wanted it; it never has to go begging. In the evening we gathered round the poor rheumatic piano and sang and sang till old Mathieu, the elec- trician, turned the lights off. Now doesn't that sound like a happy Easter? Meanwhile preparations for moving were go- ing on. All the stoves were taken from the billets and of course the weather turned cold and rainy again. We froze, and we waded in mud, but we didn't care; we were "going home." The next big stunt I pulled off was a candy pull. It took me a day's journey in the side-car to get the ingredients, two whole crates of Karo corn syrup and ten pounds of margarine. Company F allowed me to use their kitchen which was next to the tent, and I found a professional candy-maker who sup- erintended the cooking. What a time we had! Rain pouring outside, our merry little orchestra playing for all it was worth in the tent, tent packed with soldiers, I in my blue apron dashing back and A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE 6i forth from mess hall to tent with fresh batches of candy ready to be pulled, which was seized by eag- er and clean hands, pulled and twisted until it was white, and consumed in no time. I had had plenty of water heated and there was a tremendous scrub- bing of big calloused hands when some fellow "guessed he'd have a try at it." We made more delicious candy than the battalion could eat, and sent it round to the officers. Altogether the evening was voted a hilarious success. And the next day the Division began to entrain for Bordeaux. Not my Battalion, but other Infan- try Regiments, the Machine Gunners and the Ar- tillery. I left Pouillenay for three days and went to Epoisse, the entraining point, to help serve co- coa and cakes to the departing soldiers. The weather was abominable, a driving wet snow all the time and we had to stand in it for hours. "We" were four girls. It was a most exhausting busi- ness. I got back to Pouillenay rather the worse for wear, but I couldn't stop on my last day with my boys, and I was busy with a thousand things I made fudge for my platoon and took it to their bil- let in the evening. The good old tent had been taken down in my absence and there was nothing left of the "Y". There in the dark billet of the ist Platoon of F Co. I had my last good time with my boys. It was raining as usual. They received 62 A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE me with a cheer, and when they saw the fudge, the cheer grew louder. We got up a Virginia reel and how those boys swung me round ! And when we were too hot to dance more, we sang, until we were hoarse. And then I had to go, for Lieut. J. of F Co. was giving a little party for the Major and I had promised to be there with my guitar. That last night was an uproarious one in Pouil- lenay. The estaminets did their worst — it was their last chance at American francs — and way in- to the morning the streets resounded with drunken yells. I fear the majority were celebrating. I don't blame them. If the Y. M. C. A. had let us keep our tent we might have planned a counter- drive, but as it was, we could do nothing. That night, as I lay listening to the noise, I became aware of a new sound. I couldn't believe my ears — but yes, I had heard it once before in England — a nightingale ! That piercing, passionate, ecstatic song! It rang out between the shouts of the revelers in the street below. How much more it seemed to say than those drunken voices of menl and yet all that it says is through the soul of man. The day of departure dawned, warm and cloudy. I was to "hike" with my platoon over to Les Laumes, the entraining point, a distance of five kilometres. In my heart I knew that this was my last day with the battalion, though most of the A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE 63 boys expected me to go down to Bordeaux after them. But Y. M. C. A. headquarters had ordered me to stay three days at Les Laumes, serving co- coa. So we marched over. In an hour we were at the ugly little railroad town where the Engi- neers have been quartered all winter. I left the battalion to march off to their lunch, while I went down to the Y. M. C. A. to help the cocoa contin- gent. There I found the other girls working. Pret- ty soon the boys came in to get their last sweet, hot, "hand out" from the "Y," then I went with them to the station. There at the railroad gate I said goodbye. How I shook hands! Sometimes my voice would break as I talked, which made me furious with myself. They had all gone through the gate and a group of officers stood around me to say goodbye. "Well, Sis, how are you standing it?" said one. "She hasn't cried yet," said anoth- er. "Don't set me off," I begged. So Lieut. M. mercifully stuffed a cake into my mouth, which made us all laugh. These kind boys! Well, they had all passed through the train gate. I didn't follow them because I couldn't seem to get com- mand of myself and I wouldn't send them off with anything but a smile. I went back to the "Y" hut. There I worked like fury, and talked and laughed with the men, and in half an hour I was all right again. The long train of freight cars loaded with 64 A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE my family was still standing at the station. I went out on the platform. A cheer came from every earful. I started at the engine and went down the line, stopping at every car. I threw myself into a rollicking mood and got them all to laughing. "But we'll see you in Bordeaux won't we, Miss Shor- tall?" came from all sides, and I would have to ex- plain. When I got to the first platoon of F Co. Sergeant R. picked me up and put me in the car, and many were the half humorous, half serious threats of keeping me, and making me go with them. I certainly was tempted to do it. Major S. came along and found me there. How I hated to say goodbye to him, this kind friend whose atti- tude of respect, of comradeship, has typified that of the whole battalion toward me ! He has been my great encourager through it all. The splendid morale of his men, as you must realize, has been largely due to his fine spirit which permeated the battalion. And so — they were gone. Some strange offi- cer in a car kindly took me back to Pouillenay. That deserted town ! For me, its soul had de- parted. There was the famihar scene, inanimate. No figures in khaki anywhere, no one whistling to me or waving, nothing left of them but their fresh tracks in the mud everywhere, and wave on wave of loneliness surged through me, that was A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE 65 almost terrifying in its intensity. Thank heaven the sun had come out! I walked up my street, talking to the disconsolate French women who stood in the doorways looking out as though all the joy in life had departed. Truly, the best com- ment on the behaviour of our boys is the genuine sorrow of the French at seeing them go. I got up to my billet where dear M. and Mme. Gloriod met me, their faces covered with tears. It was good to see them again, and they were overjoyed at seeing me. Mme. Gloriod began getting me something to eat, while I, too exhausted to think or feel, went to bed. And now, to pass briefly over the next four days in Pouillenay, I am back in Paris. Where they will send me I haven't the least idea. I vol- unteered to go home, because the *'Y" is swamped with workers now, and had the satisfaction of being told that I was not the kind they wanted to send home. This means a good deal to mc because I am quite aware that, not being as strong as the majority, I have given fewer hours of ser- vice than most of them, and now to have from all sides tokens of appreciation is overwhelmingly gratifying. I have a "Memory Book" of the 2nd Bn., 311th Inf. which you will be interested in seeing when I get home. The Major wrote a little verse 66 A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE on the first page, stamping it with the official seal. It goes: She put the "Pull" in Pouillenay, Likewise the push there, too. Her middle name's Efficiency, And lassie — here's to you I By the way, if any members of the Battalion come to see you, I know you will give them a real welcome. Also, if by chance the 78th Divisional Show should play in Chicago, it really would be jolly to do something for the Cast and Manage- ment. It is to be composed largely of boys from our Battalion. Goodbye. There is lots more to say, but I really can't. American Y. W. C. A. Hostess House, Chateau "La Gloriette," Chaumont, May 24th. Paris is over with. There was much waiting and rushing and guessing and meeting of friends. I have seen so many, old and new-made, ladies and gentlemen. I have run around in civilian clothes — my uniform went to the cleaner's — and have gone to the theatre and dined in restaurants and listened to orchestras, dodged taxis and ridden in A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE 67 them, gone to bed late, spent some money, — in short, have done all the things I ordinarily avoid doing. In Paris you see more Americans then French, and more American women than men, all in as- sorted uniforms. They certainly have brought a mob of women over here I and now they are trying to ship them home as fast as possible. The Y. M. C. A. is sending workers, men and women, home at tki rate of several hundred a week. They have given me a reassignment. Yester- day I came to Chaumont where G. H. Q. is sta- tioned, and I shall be sent out from here — some- where, to do — something. At present I don't know anything about it. Meanwhile I am most comfortably lodged in the Y. W. C. A. Hostess House, a large and beautiful chateau with lovely grounds. I am now sitting on an old stone wall on the hillside which I came upon after following a shady path. Beside me are bushes drooping with white and purple lilacs, all about me birds are warbling, and beyond and below Is a panorama of sunny France through which runs a white road where American trucks go thundering by In clouds of dust. And it is all very lazy and hazy and — satisfactory. For I don't seem to be thinking be- yond. One doesn't when one is "militaire." One gives oneself up to the powers above. No one 68 A *T" GIRL IN FRANCE doesn't, either 1 Not at critical moments. One can steer and veer — gently. Now it begins to look as though the work of the Y. M . C. A. were nearly over. No more person- nel is allowed in Germany, the army of occupation being fully equipped, and if there is nothing to do, one ought to go home. If, after the signing of the Peace, it seems necessary to keep our army over here some time, I shall make an effort to be sent to the Rhine. Wherever our boys are waiting, and getting disgusted, I want to be. It is likely that a good friend of mine, a Lieuten- ant of Co. F may come to see you. I asked him to, as he lives near Chicago. He is a fine fellow and has been so kind to me. I think he would enjoy our home. I can see the garden and everything, and sometimes — I wish I were there. Chaumont, June nth, 1919. Again I sit in the garden of the chateau, but what a world of things I have seen and done since I last wrote you from this spot! I have a sinking feeling, that this is going to be a long letter, and I wonder how I will ever find time to finish it. The day after my last long letter I left Chau- mont with another girl to go to an entraining point just out of Gondrecourt, where we were to serve chocolate to the departing troops. We started in A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE 69 an automobile with all our baggage, a "Y" man being our chauffeur. As usual, orders were vague and mixed, and we landed in several wrong towns, before we found out where we were wanted. This however entailed so much driving over exception- ally lovely country, that we really didn't mind. At length, in the late afternoon we reached our desti- nation, Barisey la Cote, a railhead, and I believe the most desolate spot in France. Picture a freight yard in all its heat and hideousness, and a collec- tion of wooden barracks, no trees, and you will see the place. Big Bay is pretty in comparison. The water was bad, and had to be chlorinated and hauled from afar, the weather was blazing hot, the dust lay inches deep on the roads, ready to rise in a stifling cloud at the passage of any vehicle. Here we found some five hundred men (about a hundred colored), and many hundreds of mules and horses. Part of the 7th Division was there temporarily on its way home. The rest were the railhead force. The first thing for us to do was to search for a billet. As always, the oflicers could not be outdone in their courtesy to us women in the A. E. F. and every effort was made to make us comfortable. A little asbestos shack of two rooms was turned over to us, and an orderly assigned to us. I wish you could have seen "Mac, the housekeeper" as we 70 A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE came to call him, the most lovable little Irishman who took the best of care of us. For beds we had two wooden frames with chicken wire stretched over them, and plenty of blankets. As we expected to stay ten days it was worth while making our little home attractive, so with a few scarfs that I had, and flowers, photographs and books, we made a charming living-room which men and officers ap- preciated to the full. My companion. Miss B., is a jolly girl and we have become great pals. She plays ragtime "to beat the band," which is a good accomplishment over here. Both of us being short and dark, we have been taken for sisters every- where. The entraining work at the railhead left us a great deal of spare time, and we decided to open a little "Y". An open shed with a roof was pro- cured and we started in to arrange it. The boys entered into the idea with enthusiasm. One volun- teered to wire it for electric lights, others put down a floor, and everybody helped decorate it with flags, and bright chintz which the Y. M. C. A. gave us. A lieutenant lent me a truck, and through a stroke of luck I obtained a piano which was the finishing touch. We soon had a gay, festive pavilion, and how those boys, who were just sick with boredom, flocked there ! Again I felt that this work was im- measurably worth while. Miss B. and I worked A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE 71 together pretty well, luckily. We had dances and stunt shows, and singing all the time, and lemon- ade always on tap, both at the railway station and at our "Y," so you see our hands were full. Most of the men were westerners, and enlisted, not drafted, and I couldn't help compare them with my boys of the 78th. As a class, I believe they are more forceful and more responsive. It is the independent, tall ranch owner or cow puncher, in comparison with the small storekeeper or factory hand. Don't think I am forgetting for a moment my friends in my dear battalion who stood above the average, but they did stand above the average. As a crowd, the western boys sing better, dance better, talk better, and swear louder 1 But every- where in the United States is the respect for the American woman the same, and everywhere our soldiers are our devoted, helpful brothers. Well — to cut this short — I forgot to tell you about the darkies ! It was my first experience with them over here. Against the advice of a southern lieutenant, I went into their barracks one day and got to talking with them. "Don't any of you boys play or sing?" I asked. "Yes'm. Ah'm a musi- cian mahself," modestly replied a coal black boy. "Are you? well what do you play?" "Oh, mos' anything, ma'am." "Do you play the guitar?" "Yes'm, we've got a guitar but the strangs is 72 A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE broke." Of course I was able to remedy that, and gave them all the "strangs" they needed, in addi- tion lending them my guitar, which they never failed to return to me in good condition at the specified time. They had a great time, sitting out on piles of lumber, twanging the guitars and sing- ing. You could almost imagine you were down on the old Mississippi. Whenever I passed, some one would call out, "Miss, ain't you gwine to play for us?" And I would take the guitar and sing, while black, attentive faces packed close all around me. "Give us jes one mo'. Miss," they would plead when I started to go. My greatest hit was "When Yankee Doodle learns to parley- vous frangais," and when I would come to "Ulala I Sweet Papal" they would smack their knees, and giggle with delight. One evening they came down to our "Y" and one clogged, while another played the piano, and another evening they came and sang to us. On the whole the white boys were on good terms with the blacks, though they had one little row while we were there. The whites were play- ing the blacks at baseball. The game was a comic affair, and was proceeding with the utmost good nature, when one boy thoughtlessly called a darky a "nigger." Great outrage! The colored boys re- fused to play, the game was called off, and the black team retreated in sulky silence. However, A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE 73 they all made up the next day, and the game was resumed. Now I must skip over all the little human events that go to make our days, and tell you about our trip to the front. I have seen it, the strip of land on which the world's attention has been focused for so long. I have been to No Man's Land, and the Argonne, and Verdun. For a long time I had no desire to go. Something in me shrank from the thought of hundreds of unimaginative tourists speeding over the ground where men have so re- cently died by the thousands. It seemed like ''/hunt- ing our lives in the very faces of those who had laid down theirs that we might live more happily. Also, from all we have heard, and read, and felt, I thought I could picture the war and the front as vividly as if I had been there. And so I could. Strange as it may sound, nothing surprised me up there. I am not filled with any more hatred or horror after seeing it than I was before. It is now a vast desolation. I hope the world is going to be better for it. Perhaps the flowers that are even now covering the raw wounds in the earth are the flowers of hope, ready to sow the seeds of promise. I don't know whether to describe to you just what I have seen or not. I'll try. We were a party of eight Y. M. C. A. workers, four men and four girls. We travelled in two ram- 74 A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE shackle old Fords. Ours had come from a salvage pile, but it still had plenty of life in it, and got over the ground with a terrific amount of noise and jar- ring. The noise was indeed a Godsend, for it made conversation impossible, and mercifully ob- literated even our most brilliant sallies of wit. I was able to retreat behind the motor's unmuffled roaring far into the landscape and into my own thoughts, and there I stayed most of the time. We left Gondrecourt on Thursday afternoon, June 5th. It was one of those soft days, delicious ^u'aid air, that brought out all the fragrance of the country, a gray sky and a soft light that gave us the true essence of the colors in the fields because there were no shadows. A tapestry day, when all shades were subdued, woven through a warp of mist. This part of France, gently undulating, with fields of grain and carefully tended wood, is very lovely. There is a luxuriant grace about it. It is a land of carved stone crosses. We kept passing them by the roadside, beautiful in form and varied in design. It is the land of Jeanne d'Arc, and of- ten we passed her image with a vase of fresh flow- ers beneath it. In the early evening we arrived at Bar-le-Duc, a sweet little city built round the famous old cha- teau on the hill. As we drove through the streets I A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE 75 was struck by the sign "Cave," "Cave Voutee," or "Cave, 12 hommes," printed on the fronts of the houses. All places of shelter from bombs were clearly marked. Turning a corner we came upon a building in ruins. Then upon one with a hole in the roof. Bar-le-Duc had not escaped the enemies' ravages. There we spent the night. The next day we lunched at St. Menehould, then went out into the Argonne itself. Oh, I can't describe it ! Think of cultivated fields giving way to vast rank stretches; ditches and shell holes everywhere; rusty, tangled barbed wire on all sides ; miles and miles of broken, sagging telephone wires; pathetic pulverized villages, scarcely discernible on the plain ; tops of hills sawed off and furrowed by shell fire; lonely wooden crosses dotting the fields every- where; refuse of all kinds along the roadside — a man's puttee, a wrecked automobile, rusty iron, a rifle belt, piles of unexploded shells; and signs in French and English bearing severe traffic orders spoke eloquently of the mad congestion on the roads, now so lonely. This whole immense silence and desertion told of pressing crowds, of fierce ex- ertion, of wild excitement, of cursing and of pray- ing, of roaring and blazing and dying. Eight months ago it was hell on fire. And now there was not a soul in sight, nor a sound. The hot sun beat 76 A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE on it all. Now and then came a fetid odor that turned you sick. The war is over. Stopping at a prison camp for gasoline, a lieu- tenant came up to me, and seeing the lightning streak on my shoulder he told me that he too be- longed to the 78th and remembered meeting me last winter. He offered to take me and whoever else was interested through the wood of Ardennes where the 78th had fought in October. You can imagine I was glad to go. So I have seen the scarred and blasted woods and ravines through which my boys panted and bled and kept on. I seemed to almost live through it with them, and I felt the exhilaration of battle more than the hor- ror, and wished fervently that I could have been a man fighting with them. We came to a place where the Germans had blown up two engines. Right there Lieut. S. said the 31 ith had its supply dump. And sure enough, on a tree I saw the good old Lightning Sign ! I took it down, for I know the boy who made all the signs, and intend to give it to some one for a souvenir. But to skip over more quickly, we spent that night at Romagne, where the great American-Ar- gonne cemetery is being made. The next day we visited Grand Pre, the town which the 78th took; a terrible wreck, bearing the signs of hot street fighting, the standing walls being nicked and rid- A 'T" GIRL IN FRANCE 77 died with machine gun fire. Here again my spirit was back with my fighting boys reliving it all with them. And then, following the long desolate front, we went to Verdun. But I can't give you any more descriptions. That Verdun battle field! That stronghold, which the Germans did not pass I I will never forget it. Even the Argonne is a green, fertile place in comparison. Blasted skeleton for- ests, dead fields, plowed and plowed again with shells. Death, and the silence of death. I found myself repeating under my breath some verses of poetry that had caught my eye last win- ter, written by an oflicer. "Nous avons cherche la Victoirc. Ou se cache-t-elle, dis-raoi? Et, repassant la Meuse noire, EUe me crie, 'Au fond de toi.' " and "Est-ce vrai que la mort est une vie immense? Est-ce vrai que la vie est I'amour de mourir?" Lieut. Joachim Gasquet, auteur des "Hymnes de la Grande Guerre." In such ways I tried to understand and to visualize all that had taken place there. V^e returned to Gondrecourt Sunday evening. On Monday I had a new and comic experience. The Y. M. C. A. announced an auction of all its supplies and I was asked to conduct it, being the 78 A *T" GIRL IN FRANCE only American who spoke French. They tell me that I have missed my vocation, that I ought to have been a saleslady. Any way I made a lark out of it, and gave the shrewd old French ladies tit for tat, which delighted them. Now I am back in Chaumont working in the library of the "Y." It is a temporary job. I have half an idea I shall be homeward bound soon. Goodbye dear family. This pen will drive me distracted, and they cost ten dollars over here 1 June 25 th. Officers' Hut, Chaumont. Another change of job. From buck privates to elderly majors and lieutenant colonels 1 About a week ago I was assigned to the Officers' Hut at Chaumont. This has been, naturally, the larg- est and pleasantest officers' "Y" in France, but owing to the daily diminishing of the personnel at G. H. Q. the business of the "Y" is rapidly fall- ing off. I was sent here principally on account of my knowledge of French. Ahem! There is a large restaurant and a French force employed, and I am the medium of communication with them. I manage to keep the peace by translating the orders diplomatically, softening them and politening them. There are many pleasant aspects to this work. I enjoy very much being with cultivated people A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE 79 again, though my fondness for the expressive doughboy is as great as ever. After all, there is something comfortable about good grammar, and I confess that a conversation with a dash of high- brov/ism contains a pleasure all its own. The first day I was here I met Colonel MacC. of Chicago. He has been very kind to me. Sun- day evening he took me to call on some French friends of his and we had a very delightful time. The atmosphere of Chaumont is totally differ- ent from that of dear little Pouillenay. There are many American girls, Red Cross, Y. M. C. A. and Y. W. C. A., and giddy telephone girls. Every night there is a party at the chateau and much gaiety. The boys here certainly have a great deal of entertainment. The social pace is too much for me. I get out of things as much as I can without being too rude. It won't last much more than a week anyway, and then I shall be ready and glad to come home. Peace has come! "Le jour de gloire est ar- rive." Early yesterday morning, I was awakened by the strains of a band approaching nearer and nearer. It didn't sound like an American band, and I jumped out of bed to see what it was. There in the early grayness of morning French soldiers were marching to a band composed of bugles and drums. They marched seriously, with 8o A "Y" GIRL IN FRANCE rifles over their shoulders and bayonets fixed. This was their triumphant march, yet there was no triumph in it. As I watched the little blue figures keeping step to their strange yet spirited march, the tears came to my eyes, and I felt the tragedy of France, and I loved her. In Paris they say there were all sorts of gay doings, in which the Americans took part, but I shall always remember this little column of men, marching solemnly through the town of Chaumont. Paris, July 15. "Plans have been seething these last ten days since I have been in Paris, but after a great deal of sifting and shifting I have accepted the offer of the French Red Cross. I am discharged from the Y. M. C. A. and am enrolled as a member of the "Union des Femmes de France !" This means that I finish the summer working in the devastated re- gions of France, and I go next Thursday to Noyon. They permitted me to keep my old uni- form and my cape. It seemed so stupid to buy an- other expensive suit when my present one is prac- tically as good as new. (I do believe these Y. M. C. A. uniforms are imperishable I) So I removed the triangle from my sleeve, and I now form part of an organization totally French, but — they allow me to retain the dear old red patch with its Light- ning Streak, which mean? 50 much to me, on my left shoulder," Deacidified using the Bookkeeper process Neutralizing agent: Magnesium Oxide Treatment Date: ^f^ 2001 Pre5SfirvationTechnoloaie!