/. FURTHER TRACES OF THE ANCIENT NORTHMEN IN AMERICA, ' GEOLOGICAL EVIDENCES OF THE LOCATION OF THEIR VINELAND. BY REV. ABNER MORSE, A.M. Corres. Mem. of the Old Colony Historical Society, Wisconsin State Historical Society, and other Historical Societies. READ BEFORE THE NEW ENGLAND HIST. GEN. SOCIETY, AND PUBLISHED AT THEIR REQUEST. BOSTON: PRINTED BY H. W. BUTTON AND SON, Transcript Building. 1861. FURTHER TRACES OF THE ANCIENT NORTHMEN IN AMERICA, GEOLOGICAL EWDENCES OF THE LOCATION OF THEIR VINELAND. BY REV. ABNER MORSE, A. M. Corres. Mem. of the Old Colony Historical Society, Wisconsin State Historical Society, and other Historical Societies. READ BEFORE THE NEW ENGLAND HIST. GEff. SOCIETY, AND PUBLISHED AT THEIR REQUEST. BOSTON: PRINTED BY H. W. BUTTON AND SON, Transcript Building. 1861. 3S7 ^^ '0 3 • ••I. €*»*«.' t * * ' «« TRACES OF NORTHMEN. During a sojourn, eight years ago, on Cape Cod and the South Shore Islands, I made Ind.an rel.cs a subject of espeeial inquiry ; and I here Fl^^^^'^^e following results and observations, to ehc.t fu.ther light relative to the priority of claims to the diseoy- erv of this continent. On the south side of the Cape, ap estuary makes up from the Sound for miles,, called Bass River affording a harbor for vessels. On the east side of this is the modern village of South Dennis, ^v■lth a fresh-water pond in the rear. Between this pond and the house of Watson Baker, Esq., a merchant and the postmaster of the place, he pointed out the spot in the side of a hill, where, in making an exca- vation about twenty years ago, beneath a w'hite oak stump of ancient growth, he came, at the depth of of four feet, upon a hearth of round boulders ar- ranged in parallel rows so as to form a neat hori- zontal parallelogram or square of three or four feet, and bedded in mortar. Of this he presented me a specimen, which proved to be garnetiferous sihca and had no doubt been detached by the action of fire from the surface of the boulders themselves, which, in that vicinity, were of the same composi- tion, and nearly as white as the mortar he had pre- served. From the age of the stump and its size, it was calculated that the tree had occupied the ground from near the beginning of the settlement, and his aged father, born hard by and alive at the discovery, affirmed that he knew the history of the place, that no building had ever stood near the locality, and that the land, covered with wood from the beginning, had, until lately, been kept for a wood lot. The earth was sandy, but too coarse, when exposed, for rapid transportation by wind and rain ; the surface above from which it might have been washed, was only a few rods wide, and had so great an inclina- tion over and below the hearth, that particles de- tached from above, would, for the most part, have been carried lower down ; so that if the wind for ages had been broken by forest trees, the soil grasped by their roots and shingled by their leaves, an immense period must have been required for such an alteration of surface as the depth of the hearth revealed. About half a mile east of this locality, other hearths of boulders, arranged in the form of a cres- cent, were said to have been exhumed in the digging of peat, but as the discoverer was absent, I could gain no further information concerning them. About six miles north of the elbow of the Cape, and two miles from the coast, a reliable man in- formed me that in raising peat, he there found be- neath it a hearth of rounded boulders, about eight inches in diameter, neatly arranged in the form of a crescent, with coals and brands resting upon it ; and that the peat over it was perfectly formed and four feet thick. The existence of the hearth showed that the place had previously been dry land ; the preser- vation of the unaltered portion of the brands indi- cated that they had been suddenly submerged, and the elevation and distance from the sea, and the con- tour of the surrounding country, proved that the organic matter for the formation of the peat could not have been derived from either, but must have resulted from the growth and decay of aquatic plants upon the spot, as the superficial layer had evidently done. The water in which it had formed could scarcely have had a trace of lime or potash, and yet with this advantage, how great a period must it not have required for the formation of a stratum four feet thick ? Would eight hundred years have sufficed ? The above relics were called by the discoverers Indian hearths. The language to me was new and strange. I did not suppose that the aborigines ever built hearths of any kind, and especially such neat ones upon a bibulous soil, where boulders were extremely scarce, while they certainly neglected to make such in their towns located on loamy and clayey surfaces plentifully strown with them. Of this I had enjoyed some opportunities to judge. The land in the basin of Charles River, on which had previously stood the Indian village of Muck- squit, was in 1659 assigned to my ancestor, and occupied by his descendants as a cow-walk until 1726, when my great-grandfather began to denude and plough it. Indian relics were gathered in quan- tities that verified the tradition. Through an obser- vant grandfather and inquisitive father, both inher- itors of the farm, the history of all discoveries made upon it connected with the aborigines, such as their spring, planting fields, fishing places, and spots where their mineral implements were found in greatest numbers, had been shown me in my youth, but no site of an Indian hearth upon the hard and wet soil among millions of boulders was ever pointed out. There had been none. In 1835 I settled in Indiana, at the portage between the St. Joseph and Kankakee Rivers, where had been the metropolis of the Pottawatomee nation. An ancient tree, -with its trunk covered with hiero- glyphics was then standing in sight from my door, which the tribe, residing about two miles distant, regarded with veneration. Three generations of their former chiefs, as they said, had been born un- der it, and the last, Pokhagan, about one hundred years ago, when, from scarcity of fuel, they removed. Now, in the breaking up of the ground under and in every direction from this sacred tree, I am certain that no hearths were discovered, although in the bluffs and ravines of the locality, and in the banks and bed of the adjacent river, boulders were acces- sible and abundant. I had visited encampments of the rudest tribes, entered their bark wigwams of primitive style, with- out seeing pavements or fire-stones under their openings. For such reasons, I hastily referred the hearths upon the Cape, to other than aboriginal hands. But to attain certainty, if possible, I have since pushed my inquiries among antiquarians, trappers, miners, and men long engaged in breaking new land, and in excavating and grading for canals and railroads. The following are specimens of the result. J. A. Lapham, Esq., author of " Antiquities of Wisconsin," published in the 7th volume of the Smithsonian Contributions, writes from Milwaukee, April 9, 1860, to L. C. Draper, Esq., Secretary of the Wisconsin State Historical Society, " I give it as my opinion, that the aborigines of this country never made hearths like those mentioned by Rev. Abner Morse. During all my explorations of the ancient works in this State, I found no indications of the kind. The nearest approach to what might be called a hearth is the pavement of burnt clay or stones sometimes found under the ancient mounds. These were made for the purposes of sacrifice, and are always covered artificially and not by the accu- mulation of vegetable soil." A scientific gentleman, who early conducted a train to California, informs me, "that he neither saw nor heard of any Indian hearths ; but observed east of the North Pass, a finished pavement eighteen or twenty feet square, of flat stones brought from a distant ledge, and placed on the south side of a hill ; that its sides appeared to be at right angles with the cardinal points ; that it had too great an inclination, and this towards a meridian sun, for the floor or hearth of a dwelling ; and that its workmanship indicated a higher advance in the arts than is pos- sessed by any of the neighboring tribes, none of whom could give any account of its origin or use. It was no doubt the work of a race who preceded them, and not improbably an altar for sacrifice to the sun." William J. Sloan, M. D., Surgeon U. S. A., and Corresponding Secretary of the Historical Society of New Mexico, writes from Santa Fe, August 1, 1860, that a communication from me relative to In- dian hearths, had by their Society been referred to the Permanent Section on Indian Races, for exam- ination and a report. Their silence and that of other diligent and courteous Historical Societies earlier addressed, may indicate that they have no knowledge of any to impart. Edward Ballard, Esq., writes from Brunswick, Me., April 2, 1860, to Rev. Dr. N. Bouton, President New Hampshire Historical Society, " I have exam- ined the relics in Hopkinton, N. H., inquired after by Rev. Mr. Morse. The implements, found in plentiful numbers, are all unmistakably aboriginal, and indicate a permanent dwelling place, a little vil- 8 lage. The whole is Indian, and was abandoned be- fore any missionary or trader had ever approached them. I examined between thirty and forty of the places where they had kindled their domestic fires within the circle of their wigwams. These are of two classes : — " 1. Where the soil is gravelly, a hemispherical cavity was scooped out of the surface of the ground four or five feet in diameter. The remains of char- coal and charred wood intermingled with the gravel and sometimes calcined clamshells, prove that the fire was kindled in this opening. There is no ap- pearance of hearth, jambs, or fire-place, other than the scooped out earth. " 2. Where the soil was hard and compact, I have seen in two instances flat stones placed in a position indicating the central part of the wigwam, discol- ored by the action of fire ; and in the eartli around them copious fragments of charcoal. In one of these homes the back part was formed by an upright granite block, a portion of the ledge. Fires had been kindled at its side. The surface was discolored and cracked by heat. But there were no jambs. I have seen and heard of other hearth stones flat and reddened by fire, but thrown out of place by the plough. " To these I may add that I have seen two other instances of small square inclosures, one about three feet and the other about five feet made with small stones placed on the sides, for the double purpose of keeping the fire within proper limits, and to serve as andirons to raise the wood above the coals and ashes, and to procure draft. In one of these, on the farm of Levi Bartlett, Esq., in Warren, the charcoal and the abundance of hard wood ashes* testify the * The appearance of ashes indicates it modern, built perhaps long after hunters and fishermen erected lodges in Maine. use to which the little square was applied. The shape of the hearth stones appears to have been accidentaL They had no inclination, but were horizontal, and placed with no reference to the sun's rays. These places for fires were not crescent shaped— not cir- cles." From this it appears that the natives sometimes used stones in their fire-places, yet built no paved hearths ; and that they did this in a country abound- ing with boulders and fragments of ledges. But in the localities referred to upon the Cape, these are extremely scarce both in and out of ground ; and in the original condition of the country could hardly have occurred at all upon the surface. For the- growth of roots would naturally have forced the finer and lighter parts of the soil to the surface,, thus covering them up ; and never, until the decay and evaporation of the organic matter, allowing the soil to settle down again among and below them, and the exposure of the ground from denudation to the action of deeper frosts, did they make their appearance on the surface. For the same reasons that fields once of easy tillage, are no longer arable ; and cartways formerly in use have become too rocky for foot-paths, do boulders now occur in the region of these hearths. When they were built it was not so. Over a wide area then must search have been made for boulders enough of equal diameters for their construction; or the builders must have gathered them on a long and distant strand. This the Indian would hardly have done. His indolence would have forbid ; his convenience and taste would have been satisfied with ruder and cheaper structures if in such places on such soil he formed any. The industry and patience, the regard for the beauty of the arch and evenness of surface indicated in the 10 works, were not Indian. The like has no where else been reported of him. Who then constructed these hearths ? The Icelandic Sagas, regarded by Danish antiqua- rians as veritable history, and for aught appears as credible as any preserved by the Greek rhapso- dists, assert the discovery of this continent in the 10th century, by Northmen, and their subsequent settlement upon one of its islands. The length of the day given would locate it on the south coast of New England. They named it Vineland. Was it Rhode Island, on which they left no trace but the mysterious stone mill, an exact imitation of one yet. standing in England, at the place from which came some of the founders of Newport ? Was it the Cape, or either of the silicious islands of the South Shore ? Such a misnomer might have come from speculators, to make an island saleable abroad which could not be given away at home, but not from nav- igators attracted by its fertility. Where then was their Vineland ? If an island of ninety-eight per cent, silica would not have been so called, one of tertiary clay, overspread with the same drift com- mingled with the sub-stratum as ever happens, might have been so named. Where then was such an island ? Geological appearances will suggest. Dr. Hitchcock, in his Survey of Massachusetts, classes the Cape with the drift, but assigns no rea- sons for its peculiar shape. Capt. C. H. Davis, A.M., A.A.S., in an essay on the geological action of tidal currents, published by the American Academy in the third volume. New Series of their Memoirs, considers it an osar, con- structed by the same agencies in greater activity, which are now elongating Sandy Hook, Province- town Point, and the northen extremity of Nan- 11 tucket. In this able memoir he has rendered a val- uable service to science, and no doubt led intelligent readers and geologists to concur in his views. These may be correct, and adopted without material preju- dice to the use I would here make of geology. But has he not arrived at his conclusions more from the arenacious character and curvilinear form of the Cape, than from attention to its contour, and the nature, position, and state of its constituents, and the mineralogy of the country at the north-west and distant north ? Fragments of ledges with sharp corners occur upon it thirty miles east of their original line of transit ; and is not the sand gen- erally too sharp and its varieties too little mixed to have been long subject to the attrition and varied action of tidal currents ? And why, as a whole, from north of Plymouth to the end of the Cape, does it grow more silicious and comminuted ? These and other circumstances he might perhaps have found less consistent with his theory than with the one here adopted and offered for comparison and further examination. Prior to the glacial period in the earth's history, a tertiary clay formation of great thickness, extending from Cape Ann to Florida, had on our coast been broken up, with the exception of an island at Gay Head, then probably extending five or ten miles fur- ther west, and lofty compared with the present, another small island in West Barnstable, others still smaller in Truro and Nantucket, and another, as is presumed, of considerable extent and altitude, east of the Cape. During the first part of this period, when the hugest boulders were transported in ice- bergs, the currents from the North, meeting with no obstructions as far west as Fair Haven, carried their cargoes to sea. But east of that point they were 12 arrested by the high island of Gay Head. This is- land, although as much of it as remains was then tinder the sea, might, with what was afterwards abraded, have risen near the surface, or if half as thick as its congeners at the south, have towered far above it. In either case it would have been an ob- struction. On its northern side icebergs with large boulders* accumulated in an irregular mass, whose projections determined the profiles of future shores, one forming Buzzard's Bay, and another Holmes' Hole. During the second and last parts of the glacial period when the smaller boulders and finer drift were transported and deposited, this accumu- lation turned the current impinging against it from the west of North, to the south-east over Plymouth, and next to the east ; yet allowed enough of it to break over to fill cavities for points and small islands, and to form the Vineyard, joining it to the old land of Gay Head, but not to throw over a boulder larger than a lapstone. The main current, with its force broken and deflected to the east, began to be resisted by land, when it divided into two cur- rents and deposited two strands. One took a north- eastern direction, dropping sand progressively finer as far north as Provincetown harbor, and probably farther, for the north end of the original Cape is here cut with an angle indicative of the action of north- * One of these boulders had the diameter of a wind-mill, and consisted of five parts, which came hooped together in an ice-berg from their parent ledge in Essex Co., and rested eighty rods east of Mattapoisette. When the hoop melted, they fell apart where they now remain, with their faces exactly corresponding. Others, submerged, might be taken for ledges, which for size, would compare with one shipped in that age of nature's commerce, from east of Haden Row, in Hopkinton, to Rabbit Hill, in Medway, which furnished the steps and underpinning of the Rev. Dr. Ide's church, and the entire walls of a wire factory, about thirty by sixty feet, and two stories high. 13 east storms prior to a change of currents throwing up the alluvial point of Provincetown, which has lattt-rly protected it. The other current took a south-eastern course, curved to the west and endeu. with depositing the west part of Nantucket. In support of this theory, I refer to indications that the current direct from the distant north, grad- ually deposited its heavier and coarser minerals, ex- cept such as were incased in ice, before its curva- ture to the east ; also to the occurrence of huge boulders north, but not east or west, of the former clay of Gay Head ; to the mineralogical identity of the Cape and South Shore islands ; to the syn- cronization of the periods of their deposit ; to the former existence of a central ridge from Plymouth to Orleans, where it divided, sending off one branch north-east to Wellfleet, and the other south-east to Chatham ; to the reappearance of the latter branch on the north side of Nantucket ; to the drifting of the soil more at the west than at the east part of this island, and to the shallowness of the sound between Nantucket and Chatham. But if these places once joined, how have they become separated ? And if ridges, such as currents would deposit, once existed, what has destroyed their continuity ? The latter might have been accom- plished in two ways. If the land gradually emerged from beneath the sea, tidal and other currents might have divided the ridges into sections ; or, without supposing icebergs any thicker here than they then were over all New England, many might have been stranded upon the ridges, as some evidently were on their declivities. When the present temperature of the globe arrived, these on melting left basins for ponds, and vallies intersecting the ridges which wind and rain have since reduced to chains of hills. 14 The south-east strand, which connected the island with the main, perished by the action of the sea. The island that resisted and divided the current from the west, did not probably extend far south of the elbow of the Cape. Consequently the unbroken run of the ocean from the north-east, impinging at right angles against the south-east strand, cut through and degraded it as far as its curvature to the west. It then attacked with oblique strokes the inner shore of Nantucket, and cut it down to the central ridge from the revolving light to the town, when a change took place in the currents, throwing up an alluvial point on the north, which has since protected this part of the island. West of the town the sea has continued, as before, to advance, until it has passed the ridge, buried the first English grave- yard forty rods from the shore, and, before the ele- vation by variable currents of two alluvial points at the west end, it had cut off the little island of Tuc- cannuck, having probably reached an iceberg valley opening to the south, like two others occupied by ponds a little to the east, which first let it through. The north-east strand of the Cape, which partly remain, exhibits incontestable evidence of protection by land at the east. For had the ocean, from the commencement of the alluvial period, impinged against it as at present, not a sand of it would have remained thousands of years ago. It now degrades ten feet of it annually. The central ridge is remote from the sea in Orleans and Eastham, but in Well- fleet it forms the bluff. Below this, in Truro, the ocean has long since passed it. This shows that the island which once defended it, gradually gave way like a clay formation, letting the sea in first at the north, and that toward the south, where the ridge is miles within land, it must have remained until a modern century. 15 And as no change on this part of the coast in the relative level of land and water appears to have taken place since the present order of things began, further evidence of the existence of this island may yet be obtained by submarine explorations, detect- ing clay no deeper than the ocean is agitated by storms ; and if in any place it shall be found not abraded so low, then the very modern remains of the island may be inferred. This island the Northmen, in following the coast, must have discovered. If it was of tertiary clay, as is indicated, it had an attracting soil. Upon it they are supposed to have settled, and, during their stay, to have landed upon the Cape and made the hearths reported. For, the nature and thickness of the de- posits over them and the non-occurrence of mediaeval works of the same character, indicate that they were built us long ago as the colonization of Vineland, and all of them about the same time by a people who did not remain to build others. But the Indians, who, according to their tradition, had lived there ever since the creation of the Cape and Islands, and were as tenacious of their customs as any other Asiatics, remained. Had they brought the cusio n of making hearths from Asia, they would, as they spread to the East, have marked the whole continent with them, and not have reserved their beginning until they had reached Land's End ; and having here begun, why did they cease from their labor? The hearths, if made by them, were evidence of progress ; and as their remote and insular situation favored their secu- rity and further advancement, why did they retro- grade and all at once abandon a custom which must have proved a convenience ? Such a course would not have been Indian. On the contrary, if they had once adopted the custom^ they would have continued 16 it ; and mediseval hearths would occur in abundance under deposits progressively thinner up to the sur- face. But nothing of the kind, after eight years of inquiry, has been discovered. Here students of the Indian character may find a difficulty, soluble only in the belief that these hearths were the structures of other men who came and departed like the North- men. In Scandinavia, stone hearths of great antiquity, with charred wood upon them, have been uncovered, situated like these, near fishing places ; and had I not failed to receive from Copenhagen fac-similes of the ancient relics of that country, generously for- warded by C. J. Thompson, Esq., keeper of the Royal Museum of Scandinavian Antiquities, I might, by comparison, have ascertained a further resemblance, and shown that both must have been the work of the same people. But the investigation is not finished. More dis- coveries may be obtained ; and to the diligent atten- tion of antiquarians and the Historical Society of the Old Colony woulu I especially refer the subject. Abner Morse. Boston, August, 1861. P. S. — Individuals and societies to whom this is forwarded, having knowledge of ancient hearths like the above described, or of any other ancient relics not decidedly aboriginal and already given to the public, are respectfully solicited to communicate the same to the author at Boston, Mass. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 011 251 247 I