LUNCHEONS A COOK'S PICTURE BOOK A SUPPLEMENT TO THE CENTURY COOK BOOK /BY ' THE CENTURY COOK BOOK ILLUSTRATED WITH OVER TWO HUNDRED PHOTOGRAPHS r /^ NEW YORK THE CENTURY CO, 1902 THE LiSRARY OF CONGRESS. "t'wo CoPHtJ^ RECSIVfiO SEP, !6 1902 CnPVnmHT ENTRY CKASS ^^XXo No. If / h i T^ COPY 3. ic^. J' Copyright, 1902, by The Centuev Co, Published October, 1902 THE DEVINNE PRESS THE BOOK This book is intended as a supplement to the ''Century Cook Book," hence no general rules for cooking are given. It is a book of illustrated receipts, a cook's picture-book, intended to be very useful in the way of suggestion. It is arranged so that housekeepers may more readily make up a menu, often a difficult task, or may easily find new dishes to vary the routine of the daily fare. Instead of various menus, which are impracticable be- cause they seldom suit the convenience of the moment, lists of dishes are given which can be quickly read over and those suitable for the occasion selected. These lists are placed at the heads of the sections, each section representing a single course, and each list comprising a number of dishes, any one of which is suitable for that course. The receipts will meet the requirements of luncheons, but the majority of them are equally appropriate for dinner. Attention has been given to the garnishing and manner of dishing, in order to make the dishes pleasing to the sight ; for pretty dishes are attractive and recommend themselves, while carelessly served ones are sometimes refused on account of their appearance. The illustrated dishes, though apparently elaborate, are in fact quite simple, the pastry -bag and tube, the use of which is easily acquired, being the means employed to decor- ate many of them. The illustrations will serve as suggestions, and the taste of the cook will lead her to use such other combinations as are suited to her convenience. CONTENTS CHAPTER I (Pages 1-34) Luncheons Fontage Cups Garnishing andDishing Different Ways of Preparing Butter The Pastry-bag Measures and Terms Order of Courses First Course CHAPTER n (Pages 35^2) Fruits Oyster and Clam Cocktails Oysters and Clams on the Half Shell Canapes Second Course CHAPTER in (Pages 43^8) Soups Third Course CHAPTER IV (Pages 49-58) Eggs Fourth Course CHAPTER V (Pages 59-68) Shell-fish Lobsters Fish CHAPTER VI (Pages 69-82) Fifth or Seventh Course Entreies Sixth Course CONTENTS CHAPTER VII (Pages 83-106) Meats Vegetables and Cereals used as Vegetables Chicken Sauces for Meats Sweet Sauces Seventh Course CHAPTER VIII (Pages 107-111) Frozen Punches Fruits Cheese Dishes Eighth Course CHAPTER IX (Pages 113-131) Game Salads Cold Service Salad Dressings V^HEESE Ninth Course CHAPTER X (Pages 133-163) Hot Desserts Cold Desserts Pies and Tarts Tenth Course Ices CHAPTER XI (Pages 165-171) CHAPTER XII (Pages 173-176) Eleventh Course Fruits Loaf Cakes CHAPTER XIII (Pages 177-195) Small Fancy Cakes CHAPTER XIV (Pages 197-211) Breads Icings INDEX (Pages 213-223) LUNCHEONS Chapter I LUNCHEONS The midday meal, called luncheon, varies in char- acter from a very informal service, where the dishes are placed on the table and the servants leave the room, to one of equal elaboration and formality with that of a dinner. As this meal is made to conform to convenience, it is difficult to give general rules, as rules are conventions of ceremony, and ceremony is sometimes disregarded, as in the case where a larger number of guests are received than the service of the house admits of entertaining in other than an informal manner. Luncheon proper corresponds to what in foreign countries is called the second breakfast, or dejeuner a la fourcliette, where people are seated at the table and served as at dinner. The French breakfast hour, however, is usually twelve o'clock, while luncheon is an hour or more later. Entertaining at luncheon is as customary as din- The ner giving, but ordinarily the company is composed ""'^P^'^y of women alone, men as a rule not being entertained at this hour, except on holidays or special occasions. A card with the name of the guest distinctly writ- Seating ten on it designates the place at the table to be occu- guests pied by that guest, and each one finds her place with- out being otherwise directed, as the hostess is the 4 LUNCHEONS last one to enter the dining-room. If, for any rea- son, one lady has precedence over the others, she is placed at the right of the hostess ; otherwise the host- ess selects for that seat the one whom she wishes par- ticularly to compliment. If a stranger is being es- pecially entertained, the other guests having been invited to meet her, she is given this seat of honor. The hostess in this case presents her as a new ac- quaintance to her friends, who afterward may call upon and extend to her other courtesies. invita- The invitations for luncheon are the same in form ^**°® as for dinner; if the luncheon is a formal enter- tainment they are usually written in the third per- son, or conventionally expressed in the first person. An informal note is written for informal occasions. Under no circumstances should a verbal invitation be given. It is polite to answer an invitation within twelve hours. People who are in the habit of entertaining are seldom remiss in the courtesy of a prompt reply, for they have probably experienced the inconve- nience of uncertainty, and the embarrassment of having to fill places at the last minute, and so are better able to understand the significance of this social convention. Dress Women wear street costumes or afternoon gowns ; they lay off their wraps, but do not remove their hats. Men should wear afternoon dress. The table At luncheon a table-cloth is not used if the table is handsome enough to permit its omission, but often leaves are put in which have not the same polish as the main table and must be covered with a cloth. The use of a cloth is, however, a matter of taste, not of rule. LUNCHEONS 5 The polished table requires care to keep it clean and free from stains and scratches. It should be very frequently rubbed hard with a soft cloth, and occasionally a little kerosene or furniture polish should be used ; but what is particularly needed is plenty of hard rubbing. A varnish polish is easily defaced, especially by hot dishes, which leave white marks that are difficult to eradicate. The table top should have what is called hand polish. This can be washed without injury, does not easily stain, heat does not affect it, and with daily care it constantly grows handsomer. It is better for young house- keepers to start with a dull mahogany, or oak, than with a shellacked table, which needs frequent redressing. To protect the table when no table-cloth is used, Mats mats are placed under the dishes. The plate mats, either square or round, are seven to nine inches across. Mats are sometimes lined with asbestos, felt, or other thick material to protect the table better from the heat of the plates. The mats, as a rule, match the centerpiece, but this is not obligatory. There is no limit to the variety of centerpieces and mats. They range from crochet work and embroi- dered linen to beautiful laces. Except the mats, the decorations used are the same Decora- as for the dinner-table, flowers being the chief and *^°"^ always the most beautiful resource. The decora- tions should be kept low in order not to obstruct the view across the table and so make general conver- sation impossible. A large table is more imposing with high center- pieces, and at buffet luncheons high decorations can be indulged in. The cold dishes used on such occa- 6 LUNCHEONS sions are susceptible of much garnishing, and are made to form a part of the decoration. Where a large number of guests are being enter- tained, as at wedding breakfasts, or where the lunch- eon is accessory to some other entertainment, the guests are frequently seated at small tables placed throughout the room. In this case, no ornamenta- tion is attempted other than a few flowers on each table, as anything more would be an inconvenience. Lighting The lighting of the table requires careful con- sideration. Artificial light is not used unless neces- sary; but a dark, gloomy table should always be avoided, and if the room is dark candles should be lighted. Sometimes half the guests face bright win- dows, while the faces of those sitting with their backs to the windows are in shadow. Shaded lights in the chandelier will often remove this shadow ; and, if carefully managed, the gas-lights will not be dis- agreeably noticeable. This, together with a careful adjustment of the curtains, will often equalize the light; but if a blinding glare cannot thus be over- come, it is better to draw the shades and curtains and light the candles. In city houses this is fre- quently done. Laying The table is laid as for dinner, except that bread- the table and-butter plates are placed at the left of the dinner plates, each bread-and-butter plate having a small knife laid across it. These plates are small, and are used for the breads and hors d 'oeuvres. The food At luncheon the soup is served in cups, and, where courses the guests are seated at the table, roasts are seldom presented, the meats being served in the form of chops, or individual portions; otherwise, the service is the same as at dinner. LUNCHEONS 7 At buffet luncheons large cold roasts are used, and ordinarily not more than one or two hot dishes are served, such as bouillon, creamed oysters, or cro- quettes. Cold fish, cold joints; gelatines, and salads make the substantial part of the luncheon. All the dishes, including the ices, are placed on the buffet table at once, and no order is observed in respect to courses, each person making his own selection. On these occasions the gentlemen serve the ladies, and but little extra household service is needed. Where the guests are seated at small ' tables the service is the same as if all were seated at one table, and a number of servants are required. There should always be enough waiters to serve the meal quickly. An hour and a half is the extreme limit of time that guests should be kept at the table. Seven or eight courses are all that should be pre- sented, and these should be served quickly, but with- out apparent haste. The days of long feasting are passed. People of to-day value their health and time too much to sit for hours at a time at the table. The meal should be over before there is any fatigue or dullness ; but on the word of Brillat-Savarin, an accepted authority on gastronomic subjects, it is safe to detain guests at the table for one hour. He says : "La table est le seul endroit ou Ton ne s'ennuie jamais pendant la premiere heure. ' ' GARNISHINa AND DISHING MEATS One celebrated French chef says : " II f aut viser a charmer les yeux des gourmet avant d'en satisfaire 8 LUNCHEONS le gout"; and another, in giving advice to begin- ners, says: "A cook should have that artistic feeling which imparts to everything, great and small, that harmony of style which captivates the eye. ' ' This necessity is well recognized by every good cook, and such a one tries to give dishes the inviting appearance justly demanded by epicures. It is not necessary that the dish belong to the category which in cooking parlance is termed "high class," for the simplest one conies under the same rule and is capa- ble of being raised to a higher rank by careful dish- ing and tasteful garnishing. The greatest cooks are renowned for such specialties. It is said of Soyer, ' ' for dishing up he was entitled to celebrity ' ' ; and of Careme, ' ' he excelled in every- thing requiring perfect taste, and dealt in a new and very effective manner with the ornamentation of large cold dishes." There is nothing which so quickly indicates the grade of the cook as the manner in which she serves her dishes. One who has no pride in her work seldom takes time for ornamentation, though garnishing is the simplest part of her duty. When, however, at- tention is given to this branch, even though the result may not be perfect, it gives promise of better things, and one may confidently predict for the cook who thus shows desire to do well that she will attain a higher degree of excellence in her profession. There is no class of dishes, from breads to desserts, which are not more appetizing when made attractive in ap- pearance. It has been said that "eyes do half the eating," and as no expense need be incurred in the indulgence of tasteful arrangement of the dishes, there seems to be no reason why the simplest table LUNCHEONS 9 should not share with the most expensive one this element of success. Care, taste, and ingenuity will do much to remedy the lack of money, and may change the standard of the table from coarseness to refinement. Many suggestions for decorations may be found in the show-windows of bakers, pastry- cooks, fishmongers, and of delicatessen shops. Many of the pieces displayed there may seem elaborate and difficult to the novice, but they are, in reality, simple enough when the use of materials is understood. The word garnishing is used here in a broad inter- pretation of the term, meaning the general ornamen- tation of dishes, whether it be obtained by form, color, dishing, or by dressing them with those articles called garnishes. For example, beginning with breads, embellish- ment is accomplished by means of form and color. The form is gained by molding and cutting; the color, by glazing with egg or sugar. A universal expedient, when short of bread, is the soda biscuit. These biscuits, when cut in very small rounds of uniform size, will tempt the scoffer of hot breads; while large or small crusty rolls, all of exactly the same size, and baked a golden color, will also make him forget his prejudices and find excuse in the delicious crust for eating them. But these same biscuits carelessly cut or molded or baked would offer him no excuse for inviting dyspepsia. Toast looks more inviting when cut into strips or triangles, or with the corners neatly cut off if served in whole slices. Any little thing which indicates care on the part of the cook recommends the dish to favor and almost guarantees its excellence— on the principle that straws show which way the wind blows. 10 LUNCHEONS For soups, there is to be found, in any cook book, a long list of garnishes which may be used. Cer- tainly a clear soup is more beautiful whe]i a few green peas or a few bits of celery increase its bril- liancy; a cream soup is greatly improved by a few small croutons ; and so on through the various classes of dishes. The garnishes for meat dishes are so various, it may be said that their only limit is the ingenuity and resources of the cook. It should be remembered that dishes which are served hot do not permit of as much garnishing as cold ones. The first requisite in the former is heat, and this must not be lost by time given to elaborate garnishing. It does not, however, exclude them from the privilege of being embellished ; for if the gar- nishes are prepared and ready at hand, it takes but a minute to put them in place. Hot meat dishes can also rely on other things to improve their appear- ance, such as shapeliness and uniformity; therefore, strict attention should be given to the cutting and trimming of meats, to the molding of croquettes, of meat-balls, or of anything served in pieces, and also to the dishing of the same. After meat is well cut, if a joint, it should be di- vested of all points and irregularities, and of car- tilage which will interfere with the carving, and then should be trimmed into a well-balanced and symmetrical form, attention being given to the mat- ter of its standing squarely and solidly upon the platter. Chops and cutlets should be trimmed into uni- form size and shape. This can be done without waste, as the trimmings have their uses. Careful LUNCHEONS 11 dressing and trussing is essential for poultry, as the appearance of an untrussed fowl is enough to de- stroy the appetite and condemn the dinner. A fowl should be pressed into a rounded and smooth surface in order to dissociate the article served from the thing of life. Meat should be placed exactly in the center of the platter, except in certain instances where studied irregularity is given for special garnishing. To place chops or cutlets neatly overlapping one another, either in rows or in a circle, requires some dexterity, perhaps, but this is acquired by a very little prac- tice, and such an arrangement not only helps to keep the meats hot, but is in itself ornamental. The platter should be in right proportion to the article served upon it. A large joint on too small a platter gives the same sense of unsuitableness that an out- grown garment gives to a boy or a girl, and the carv- ing of this seemingly overgrown joint usually results in accidents to the table-cloth. Again, too small a platter affords no room for garnishing. The color given meat in cooking may be called its secondary garnish, space being the first. Care should be taken, if it is roasted, that it be well browned ; if it is boiled, that it be white and clean- looking; if it is fried, that it be not blackened, but a clear lemon color. Poultry should have a golden color that suggests crispness. It is difficult to make the mediocre cook understand these points. Larding also serves an ornamental purpose. Dry meats, like veal, and oftentimes fowls, are im- proved in flavor by being larded ; and it should be so done as to make it an ornamental feature. There is no part in the preparation of dishes easier to per- 12 LUNCHEONS form than larding, and no novice need hesitate to undertake it. Hashes and minces can, with very little trouble, be made attractive in appearance as well as in taste. Hash pressed into a mold, giving it a ring or a dome shape, then masked or not with a sauce, or simply turned upon a platter, can be prettily garnished with eggs and greens. Plain meat-balls and potato- or hominy-balls can be placed together on a platter with such regard to effect that the dish assumes the character of an entree, instead of appearing like a makeshift from left-over pieces. The next means after larding in what may be called natural garnishing is in the employment of gravies and sauces. No article should ever swim in sauce, but a little can be used with good effect on many dishes. A venison steak wet with a currant jelly sauce, and just enough of the sauce poured on the bottom of the platter to color it, gives a glaze and juicy look to the steak which improves its ap- pearance. A very little tomato sauce under breaded veal chops or croquettes gives color and emphasis to the dish. White sauce poured over boiled dishes gives greater whiteness and often covers defects. In French cooking, much use is made of masking, which is often done by glazing and by the use of sauces. As white sauces will make white foods whiter, so brown ones will make brown ones browner. Fitness must of course be observed. If crispness is a part of the excellence of a dish, it would not do to destroy that quality by using a moistening garnish. Vegetables as pfarnishes come next in order of suitableness and convenience. When vegetables are placed on the same platter with meats, they not only LUNCHEONS 13 ornament the dish, but contribute to the ease of serving a dinner. AVTien they are used the dish is called a la jardiniere or a la printaniere. Probably every cook knows how to serve mashed or fried pota- toes or green peas in the center of a circle of chops. Similar combinations can be made in various ways and of many things. Spinach, beans, carrots, purees, macaroni, spaghetti, or rice may be placed so as to form a base, raising the chops like a crown, or grouped with them in rows, or alternating with the individual pieces. Macedoine is a mixture of any number of vegetables, such as peas, beans of various kinds, carrot and turnip balls, flowers of cauliflower and any other vegetable obtainable. They may be mixed together, or each vegetable may be kept dis- tinct and placed in small piles around the platter. Small portions of vegetables left over may be used to advantage in this way. Very little need be used of any one, and any number may be combined on the same dish. Potatoes boiled or fried can be prepared in many fancy ways to make them suitable for gar- nishing. Well-seasoned spinach is excellent with chops, steaks, or roasts. Browned onions are often used. Meats with onion garnishes make dishes called a la soubise. Brussels sprouts, hot, are a suitable gar- nish for corned beef ; or cold, with a French dressing, are an excellent salad to serve with cold beef. They should not be over-cooked or they will lose their shape. Stuffed tomatoes may be used with almost any meat dish. Vegetable puree, in fancy form, is useful for em- bellishment, and may take the place of a fresh vege- table. Puree is made of any vegetable mashed and seasoned in the same manner as potato. Navy beans, 14 LUNCHEONS lima beans, flageolets, and peas, either fresh or dried, are so used. The puree can be pressed through a pastry-bag into forms simulating roses, or placed in piles on rounds of toast. Vegetables intended to be eaten with the meats they garnish should be well seasoned before being placed on the platter; but where they are to serve only an ornamental pur- pose, they may sometimes, as in the case of carrots and turnips, be used uncooked, as they have a better color and more firmness when raw. These two vege- tables are very useful, as they are obtainable all the year round. Carrots are particularly pretty when small. Large ones sliced and then stamped into fancy shapes, combined with turnips treated in the same way, are frequently used for making designs. Sometimes they are cut into balls, sometimes are carved into forms simulating roses. It is easy to make them into cups, using a fluted knife to shape the outside, and hollowing the center with a potato- scoop. These cups are good for holding any vege- table or for vegetable salads. Rice is generally used for borders which are in- tended to keep creamed dishes and fricassees in shape. Sausages cut in halves or quarters, or fried bacon, make a good relish as well as a garnish for many meats; they are particularly good with egg dishes. Paper frills on protruding bones serve the excellent purpose of concealing these unsightly ends. They are easily made by folding a strip of paper lengthwise, then cutting it down about one and a half inches at intervals of one-eighth inch on the folded side, thus making a double fringe; next slip one side up a little, making the fringe round out; and, finally, roll this around a stick, leaving the LUNCHEONS 15 openwork in a close spiral. These frills are used on the bones of a leg of mutton, on ham, on chops, and on drumsticks. The green garnishes are parsley, watercress, small crisp lettuce leaves, green lettuce cut into ribbons, chicory, and celery tops. These are all edible, and all have places where they are especially appropriate. Parsley, which is most commonly used, is preem- inent for convenience, beauty of leaf, and freshness. In many cases, however, greens which can be eaten with the dish are preferable, such as watercress with broiled or fried meats or fish. Parsley may be used with almost everything in its purely ornamental function, but it can be chopped and sprinkled over foods for both its flavoring and decorative qualities. A woman who has mastered the art of making an omelet will usually give it this finishing touch. Parsley should be very green and crisp, well washed, and dried with a cloth before being used; it may then be broken into sprigs and placed at intervals, or formed into a wreath. Sometimes a large bunch, like a bouquet, may be used with good effect. Lemons, like parsley, have convenience to recom- mend them, and, like watercress, are acceptable with fried meats. The acid of lemon is the best condiment for veal. When they serve the double purpose of garnish and condiment, they should be cut so the pieces can be taken in the hand and pressed with- out soiling the fingers. This is effected by cutting them in quarters lengthwise, or in halves and then in quarters. In some instances a half lemon is not too much to serve with one portion, but ordinarily quarters are sufficient. Slices are useless with meats, except as ornaments. Illustration No. 1 shows a 16 LUNCHEONS lemon ready to be sliced. It has been channeled so as to give the notched edges which make the slices more ornamental. The illustration also shows a lemon made to simulate a pig. This form can be used with propriety on a ham or pork dish. The ears are formed by cutting and raising a triangular slice on each side of the pointed end, the eyes are made of cloves, the legs and tail of wooden tooth- picks. Hard-boiled eggs ornament in a variety of ways. They should be boiled very hard, then cut with a thin, sharp knife so the slices will be smooth and the edges clean. Illustration No. 2 shows plain slices, rings made by slipping the yolk out of slices, an egg cut into quarters and eighths, a whole yolk set into a ring, and a stuffed egg. Yolks pressed through a colander and sprinkled over creamed meat and fish dishes, cream toast, and some other dishes make a beautiful golden covering. Chopped whites in con- junction with crumbed yolks are used for tracing designs over salads, minces, and cold pieces. Pickled beets are a useful and effective garnish. The color gives decided contrast, and the flavor is a good relish. Sliced beets can be stamped with vegetable-cutters into fancy shapes, or cvit with a knife into diamonds, cubes, or strips. One can easily have them always at hand. Two or three boiled beets sliced thin and put into vinegar will last until all are used, and should be among the stores in the dresser awaiting the convenience of the cook. Cucumber pickles and gherkins are equally useful in point of color effects, and in giving piquancy to many foods. They are used in slices stamped into fancy shapes, or chopped and arranged in lines or in little heaps. Gherkins are usually left whole, but may be sliced, NO. 1. LEMONS cur FOE GARNISHES. NO, 2. EG.kmi-:l()n. LUNCHEONS 39 and shake them together. The moisture of the cur- rants will cause enough sugar to adhere to completely cover them. Turn them off the sugar and serve at once before the sugar loses its dryness. Serve them on leaves in individual portions, or pass them as a first course at luncheon or breakfast. This is a very pretty way of serving currants. Muskmelon. The muskmelon should be very ripe and very cold. Cut the melons in two and serve with cracked ice in each half. If the melon is not too large serve a half as one portion. Serve on indi- vidual plates, or pass as first course for breakfast, luncheon, or dinner. Pass salt and sugar. For other arrangements of fruits see "Century Cook Book, "page 529. CLAM OR OYSTER COCKTAILS Use small Little Neck clams or small Blue Point oysters. To each 8 or 10 clams or oysters use : One tablespoonful of tomato catsup, Two tablespoonfuls of Chili sauce, One half teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce, A dash of tabasco or of paprika, One tablespoonful of clam or oyster liquor. The juice of one quarter of a lemon. Mix the sauces and let the clams or oysters stand in them for an hour before serving. Serve in small glasses as a first course. 40 LUNCHEONS ANCHOVY EGGS Cut hard-boiled eggs in two lengthwise, using a thin- bladed, sharp knife. Have the eggs boiled twenty-five min- utes so the yolks will be crumby. Remove the yolks, mash them, and mix them with mayon- naise and the trinnnings of the anchovies. Just before serv- ing, fill the white halves with the yolk mixture, covering the whole top, heaping it in the middle and leaving a rough surface. Trim anchovies to the right length and lay two of them crossed over the top of each egg. Set each piece on a round of bread sauted in butter. Slice a little piece off the bottom of the egg to make it stand firm. Serve on individual plates. Anchovies preserved in oil are put up in small bottles and can be purchased from a grocer. HEART-SHAPED SALMON CANAPES Cut very light bread into slices one quarter of an inch thick. Stamp them with a cutter into heart shapes. Spread them thinly on both sides with butter and put them in the oven to brown ; or saute them in butter. Let them cool, then lay on each one a slice of Nova Scotia smoked salmon, cut as thin as possible. Place around the edges of the heart a border of chopped white of hard-boiled eggs, and a little crumbed yolk just at the upper point of the heart, making a round spot. The salmon must not be entirely covered with egg, so that the hearts may show three colors. Serve on in- dividual plates, with a small piece of parsley at the rounded end. Nova Scotia salmon can be bought at delicatessen stores. NO. 24. ANCHOVY EGGS. NU. 25. UKART-I^UArED SALMON CANAl'KS NO. 26. OYSTERS AND CLAMS ON THE HALF SHELL. LUNCHEONS 41 ANCHOVY CANAPES Cut fresh bread into slices quarter of an inch thick, then into rounds two and a half inches in diameter. Spread the rounds of bread with butter, season with a little salt, pepper, and mustard. Split and trim the anchovies to uniform length and ar- range them on the bread in rosette form. Fill the spaces between the anchovy fillets with the chopped white and the crumbed yolk of hard-boiled eggs and make a border around the bread with the white. Use a little chopped parsley in the decoration. For other canapes, see "Century Cook Book," page 368, CANAPES OF CAVIARE Cut very light bread into slices ([uarter of an inch thick, then into rounds or squares two inches across. Saute them in butter on one side. When they are cold spread them with a thin covering of caviare moistened with a little oil and lemon juice. Place on the top of each one a very thin slice of lemon. Caviare is the fermented roe of the sturgeon. It is a dish much esteemed in Kussia, but the taste for it is not very general in other countries, so discretion should be used in serving it. It comes in small jars and can be obtained at grocers'. OYSTERS OR CLAMS ON THE HALF SHELL Raw oysters and clams are served on the "half shell" for a first course. Blue Point oysters and Little Neck clams are the varieties preferred. The smallest ones, and those uni- form in size, should be selected. They should be opened 42 LUNCHEONS only a short time before serving. The muscle holding the mollusk to the shell is cut and the oyster or clam is served on the deep valve. Arrange the clams or oysters symmetrically in a circle, the beaks turned to the center, on a bed of cracked ice. Place in the middle a quarter of a lemon cut lengthwise, the top edge shaved off and the seeds extracted. Rest the piece of lemon on a sprig of parsley or any green leaf. Condiments, thin brown bread and butter sandwiches, and biscuits are passed with this course. The condiments (horseradish and tomato catsup, black and red pepper) may be placed on a dish, and the bread and biscuits arranged around them as in illustration. Chapter III SECOND COURSE SOUPS SOUPS Consomni6 of Beef Cream of Clams Consomme of Chicken Cream of Oysters Clam Brotli Cream of Spiiiai-h Clam Bisque Cream of Celery SOUPS Soups used for luncheon are served in cups. Any kind of soup can be used, but those siven below are the ones generally employed. For other soups, see "Century Cook Book," page 97. CONSOMME OF BEEF Cut into pieces four pounds of beef taken from the under part of the round, and the meat cut from a knuckle of veal. Put them into a soup pot with two tablespoonfuls of butter and let them brown on all sides. Then add a cupful of water and let it fall to a glaze. This is to give color to the soup. Add five and a half quarts of cold water. Let it boil slowly for five to six hours. An hour before removing it add soup vegetables, a tablespoonful of salt, fifteen peppercorns, three cloves, two bay-leaves, a little thyme, marjoram, and summer savory. Strain the soup through a cloth and let it cool without covering. When it is cold take off the grease. As no bones were boiled with the soup, it will be clear; and as the meat was browned, it will have a good color. It can be made perfectly clear as follows : Pour the soup off the sediment which has fallen to the bottom of the dish. Stir into it while it is cold the whites of two eggs beaten enough to break them. Place it on the fire and stir it until it comes to the boiling-point ; the egg will then be cooked and have imprisoned any j)articles which clouded the soup. Let it boil violently for a few minutes, then draw it to the 45 46 LUNCHEONS side of the range. Strain it again through a cloth. Heat it again before serving it. In summer this soup is sometimes served cold in the form of jelly. In this case the bone of the knuckle of veal must be cooked with it in order to make it jelly. Care must be taken that during the cooking the water only simmers, for if it boils lime will be extracted from the bone and it will be impossible to have a clear soup. CONSOMME OF CHICKEN Place a fowl in a soup pot with four quarts of cold water and let it come slowly to the boiling-point, then draw it to the side of the range and let it simmer for five or six hours. If it is allowed to boil the soup will be clouded by lime ex- tracted from the bones. An hour before removing it add an onion, a branch of celery, a tablespoon of salt, and six peppercorns. Strain it through a cloth, and when cold remove the grease. Clear it the same as the beef consomme. A knuckle of veal may also be used with this soup if a jellied stock is wanted to serve cold. CLAM BROTH Boil clams in their own liquor for twenty minutes. Let the liquid settle before pouring it off. Season it with pepper and serve it very hot in cups, with a teaspoonful of whipped cream on the top of each cupful. About two dozen clams will give a quart of liquor. CLAM BISaUE Boil a pint of clams in their own liquor. Chop the clams very fine and return them to the fire with the clam liquor, SOUPS 47 a quart of soup stock (chicken or veal stock preferred), half a cupful of uncooked rice, a sprig of parsley, and a bay-leaf. Boil until the rice is tender, then strain the soup through a puree sieve, pressing through as much of the clams and rice as possible. Strain a second time. Just before serving, heat it, add a cupful of cream, and beat the whole with an egg-whip. CREAM OF CLAMS Steam twenty-five clams and as soon as they open remove them from the shells and strain off the liquor. Chop the clams, pound them in a mortar, and rub as much of them as possible through a puree sieve. Put three cupfuls of milk into a double boiler, cook two tablespoonfuls of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour together, but do not let them brown, then add to the cooked butter and flour a little of the milk from the boiler to make a smooth paste, put the paste into the milk in the double boiler, and stir the mixture until it is a little thickened. When ready to serve add two cupfuls of clam liquor and the pulp which has passed through the sieve. Let it get hot, but do not let it boil or it will curdle. Season with salt, if necessary, pepper, and a dash of nutmeg. At the moment of serving add a cupful of cream and beat the whole well with an egg-whip. This receipt makes a quart and a half of soup. CREAM OF OYSTERS Prepare the same as the Cream of Clams. CREAMED SOUPS Any vegetable pulp can be used for creamed soups after the rule given for Cream of Spinach. 48 LUNCHEONS CREAM OF SPINACH Boil spinach until tender, then drain it. Chop it and rub it through a puree sieve. To two cupfuls of vegetable pulp add a quart of soup stock, or a quart of milk, or half stock and half milk. Rub together a tablespoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour. Put this into the soup on the fire and stir all together until the soup is a little thickened. Sea- son it with pepper and salt and add a half or a whole cup- ful of cream. Beat it well with an egg-whip and serve at once. If the soup is too thick dilute it with a little stock or milk. It should have the consistency of cream. CREAM OF CELERY This is prepared in the same manner as the Cream of Spinach, using celery pulp instead of spinach. The roots of the celery as well as the stalks should be boiled to make the pulp. Chapter IV THIRD COURSE EGGS EGGS Plain French Omelet Beaten Omelet Omelet Chasseur Eggs a la Eomaine Eggs baked in Tomatoes Eggs baked in Green Peppers Scrambled Eggs with Tomato Creamed Poached Eggs Creamed Egg Baskets Poached Eggs ■with Greens Eggs in Nests Eggs Farci, No. 1 Eggs Farci, No. 2 Eggs with Giblet Sauce Eggs a 1 'Aurore Scrambled Eggs with Brains EGGS Egg dishes are especially useful for luncheon, as they are easily and quickly prepared, are always liked, and can be served in a great variety of ways. They may be used as a first course, or in the order named in the list. TO POACH EGGS Drop the eggs into water just off the boiling-point. Let them cook slowly until the whites are like jelly, but not un- til hard. Muffin-rings may be used to keep them in good shape. TO POACH EGGS IN FRENCH STYLE Use a large saucepan and have it two thirds full of water. Add a tablespoonful of vinegar. When the water boils stir it with the handle of a wooden spoon until it whirls, then drop quickly a fresh egg into the depression or eddy of the whirling water. This will give the egg a rounded shape. When the white is set and before the yolk has hard- ened, remove the egg with a skimmer and place it on a dish to drain. Only one egg at a time can be cooked in this way. Trim the eggs carefully, cutting aw^ay all the ragged white. TO SCRAMBLE EGGS Add a tablespoonful of milk, a saltspoonful of salt, and a dash of pepper for every two eggs. Beat them just enough to break them, but not enough to make them smooth or 51 52 LUNCHEONS frothy. Put a tablespoonful of butter into a saute-pan, and when it bubbles turn in the eggs. With a fork scrape the cooked eggs from the bottom of the pan, giving flakes of cooked egg. If the butter is not allowed to brown, the eggs will have a clean, bright yellow color. PLAIN FRENCH OMELET Add a tablespoonful of milk, a half teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of pepper to three or four eggs. Beat them just enough to break them. Put a tablespoonful of butter into a clean, smooth saute-pan. When the butter bubbles turn in the eggs. When the eggs are a little set on the bottom, tip the pan a little towards the handle, and with a fork stir the mixture on the handle half of the pan, lifting the cooked portion off the bottom in large flakes. When the mixture is all cooked, but still soft, pile the scrambled part on to the smooth half, making it high in the center. Turn the omelet on to a hot dish. This should give a smooth outside surface of egg, covering the softer inside portion, which is scrambled in large flakes. It is not well to make an omelet of more than three or four eggs. If more is needed, make a second omelet. BEATEN OMELET Beat the whites of three or four eggs to a stiff froth. Add to the yolks a half teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper, and a tablespoonful of milk. Beat them well together, then fold in lightly the whipped whites. Put a teaspoonful of butter in a saute-pan and let it run all over the bottom. When it bubbles turn in the egg mixture and spread it evenly over the pan. Let it cook slowly without stirring until it seems cooked through, then place it in the oven for a few minutes 4 NO. 27. BOUILLON CUP WITH SIPPETS OF TOAST AND ITALIAN BREAD STICKS. NO. 28. OMELET CHASSEUR. NO. 29. 1. EGGS A LA ROMAIXE. 2. EGGS BAKED IN TOMATOES. 3. EGGS BAKED IN GREEN PEPPERS. 4. SCRAMBLED EGGS M'lTH TOMATOES. EGGS 53 to harden the top surface. Fold one half over the other and turn the omelet on to a hot dish. OMELET CHASSEUR Make either a French or a beaten oiuel(;t. Before folding it, place in the center some well-seasoned or creamed minced chicken, or other meat. Fold the omelet and turn it on to a dish. Cover the top with well-seasoned tomato. The tomato should be dry enough to hold its place, leaving a border of yellow egg between the tomato and the meat. No. 1. Eggs k la romaine. Cut sliced bread into rounds and saute them in butter. Place on each one an arti- choke bottom which has been heated in hot water. On the artichoke place an egg poached in the French style (see page 51). Arrange the eggs around a mound of green peas, and pour over the eggs a white sauce made partly of chicken stock, with the yolk of an egg beaten in the last thing. No. 2. Eggs baked in tomatoes. Select round tomatoes of uniform size. Cut off the stem ends and take out enough of the pulp to leave a space as large as an egg. Sprinkle the inside with salt and pepper. Drop into each one an egg. Place the filled tomatoes in a baking-dish with a little hot water, and bake them about fifteen minutes, or until the eggs are set and the tomatoes are a little softened. Serve the eggs on rounds of bread browned in butter. No sauce is re- quired with this dish. No. 3. Eggs baked in green peppers. Select green peppers of uniform size and shape. Cut off the stems close to the 54 LUNCHEONS peppers so they will stand firmly. Take off the tops and remove the seeds and ribs. Parboil them. Re- move them from the water as soon as they are a little tender, and before they become limp. Break an egg into each one. Set them in a baking-pan with a little hot water, and bake them slowly about fifteen min- utes, or until the eggs are set. Arrange them on rounds of browned bread with white sauce in the dish. No. 4. Scrambled eggs with tomato. Place scrambled eggs on rounds of browned bread, and on the top of each piece place a slice of broiled tomato (see page 97). Serve with or without a white sauce. CREAMED POACHED EGGS Poach eggs, the French style preferred. Lay them on rounds of bread sauted in butter. Arrange them symmetri- cally and pour over them a plentiful amount of white sauce made partly of stock, and having the yolk of one or two eggs stirred in after it is taken from the fire. Garnish the dish with a large bunch of parsley, or a bunch of nasturtiums. The dish may be varied by placing a very thin slice of broiled ham under each egg ; or the eggs may be covered with a tomato sauce. CREAMED EGG BASKETS Boil the eggs hard. Cut them in two lengthwise and re- move the yolks. Drop the whites into hot water so they will be warm when needed for use. Mash the yolks and mix them with a little white sauce, or with stock, or with cream and a little butter and salt. Beat the mixture until it is smooth NO. 30. CREAMED I'OACIIEI) ECiUS. NO. 31. CREAMED EGG BASKETS ON I5EAN PUREE. NO. 32. POACHED EGG.S WITH GREEN.S. NO. 33. SPANISH EGGS. EGGS 55 and light. Press the paste through a pastry-bag and star tube into the hollows of the white halves, and insert handles made of thin slices of celery cut from the green ends. Arrange the little baskets on a bed of any kind of well- seasoned vegetable. In illustration the center is bean puree (see page 98) pressed through a pastry-bag. POACHED EGGS WITH GREENS Boil green leaves of lettuce until tender, drain them, chop them fine, and season with a little white sauce. Cover rounds of bread, which have been browned in butter, with the let- tuce ; or, if more convenient, with well-seasoned creamed spinach. Make nests of the green, leaving the edges of the toast clean, with a border one half inch wide around the depression. Place in each one an egg poached in the French style ; or break an uncooked egg into each hollow, and place them in the oven until the eggs are set. EGGS IN NESTS Whip to a stiff froth the whites of as many eggs as are needed. Pile it irregularly on a flat, buttered baking-dish, and make depressions in it here and there. Sprinkle the hol- lows with salt and pepper and drop into each one the yolk of an egg. Put a small piece of butter on each yolk. Place the dish in a moderate oven for five to eight minutes. Serve at once. The yolks can be conveniently kept in the half shells until needed. 56 LUNCHEONS SPANISH EGQS Cover the bottom of an earthen baking-dish with well-sea- soned tomato puree. Arrange on it poached eggs, leaving spaces to show the red color. Lay between the eggs whole small sausages, already cooked, or sausages cut in inch lengths. Place a bit of butter on each egg and set the dish in the oven to heat it only. EGGS FARCI No, 1. Boil until hard as many eggs as are needed. Cut them in two lengthwise. Remove the yolks and mash them. To six yolks add four tablespoonfuls of crumb of bread, softened with water, one half tea- spoonful of onion juice, and two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley. Mix well. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan on the fire, add the egg mixture with enough milk or stock to moisten it, but not enough to make it lose consistency. Season with salt, pepper, and a dash of nutmeg. A mushroom or a chicken liver chopped fine added to the farce im- proves its flavor. Fill the whites of the eggs Avith the farce, and what is left make a mound on the serving-dish. Pour a white sauce over it and arrange the stuffed eggs on it; or cut the eggs in two cross- wise and fill the cups with farce, molding it to look like whole yolks. Cut a small slice oft' the ends so they will stand. Arrange them on a dish with white sauce around them. No, 2, Boil until hard a dozen eggs, cut them in two length- wise and remove the yolks. Place the whites in cold water to keep them white until ready to use them. Put in a chopping-bowl the breast of a fowl which NO. 34. EGGS FARCI, NO. 1. NO. 35. EGGS FAKCI, NO. 2. NO. 36. KGliS WITH (ilULiyr SAUCE. NO. 37. KGGS A 1/AUKOKIC IN CUPS. EGGS 57 has been boiled for chicken stock, the yolks of the boiled eggs, two fresh mushrooms sauted, one half of a truffle, two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, and two tablespoonfuls of crumb of bread. Chop all together to a fine mince. Place in a sauce- pan two tablespoonfuls of butter and a teaspoonful of onion juice. When the butter bubbles add the chopped mixture and moisten it with enough chicken stock to make it of the right consistency for filling the egg cups. Season it with two teaspoonf uls of salt, one half teaspoonful of pepper, and a dash of nut- meg, and stir until it is hot. Place the whites in hot water to heat them, then fill each one with the hot farce, rounding it to look like a whole yolk. Make a sauce as follows. Beat the yolks of two eggs enough to break them, stir them into a cupful of cream, and add this to the farce left after filling the cups. Stir it over the fire long enough to set the eggs. If not soft enough, add stock to make it the consistency of thick cream. Pour this sauce on a platter and arrange the stuffed eggs on it in lines or in circles. No. 3. With giblet sauce. Prepare eggs as in No. 1. Add chopped giblets to a brown sauce. Spread the sauce on a dish and place the stuffed eggs upon it. EGGS A L'AURORE Chop the whites of hard-boiled eggs into fine dice. Mix them with enough white sauce to make them creamy. Crumb the yolks by pressing them through a coarse sieve or a col- ander, and spread them over the creamed whites. 58 LUNCHEONS SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH CALVES' BRAINS To a pair of calves' brains use tliroo or four eggs. Scald the brains by letting them lie in scalding water six or eight minutes. Trim them and cut them into half-inch dice. Put them in a saute-pan with a tablespoonful of butter and cook them until they look white, then add the beaten eggs and stir them all together, using a fork, until the eggs are cooked. Add one half teaspoonful of salt and one quarter teaspoonful of pepper. For other egg dishes, see '^Century Cook Book," page 261. Chapter V FOURTH COURSE SHELL-FISH-LOBSTERS-FISH SHELL-FISH-LOBSTERS-FISH Sauted Oysters Fried Oysters with Cold Slaw Oysters a la Ncwburg Fried Scallops Scallops on the Shell Creamed Lobster Broiled Lobster Broiled Smelts Broiled Shad Eoc Shad Koe Croquettes 2'"'illets of Fish, Fried Eolled Fillets of Flounder Baked Fillets of Fish with Sauce Fillets of Fish with Mushrooms Creamed Fish Garnished with Po- ' tatoes Fish a la Japonnaisc sautUd oysters Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a saute-pan; when it is hot add as many drained oysters as will make two cup- fuls. Add a little salt and pepper and a tablespoonful of lemon juice. Shake them in the pan until the gills are curled, then add a tablespoonful of parsley chopped very fine. Turn them upon slices of toasted bread on a hot platter. FRIED OYSTERS WITH COLD SLAW Use box oysters. These are large in size and cost two cents each. Lay the oysters on a cloth to dry them. Roll them in cracker dust, then in egg diluted with a little milk and seasoned with pepper and salt, then again cover them with cracker dust. Lay them in a frying-basket and fry them in smoking-hot fat just long enough to give them a light- brown color. Oysters toughen if cooked too long. Prepare only four at a time, as more lower the temperature of the fat too much, and if they are rolled before the moment of frying they moisten the cracker dust. Place them on a paper on the hot shelf until all are done. Fold a small napkin and place it in the center of a cold platter. Pile the oysters on the napkin and make a wreath around them of cold slaw. COLD SLAW Cut cabbage into fine shreds. Put in a saucepan a half cupful of weak vinegar, the yolks of three eggs, a half tea- 61 62 LUNCHEONS .sixxjjil'ul oJ' Kut^lisli inustard, u dash of pepper, a teaspoon- i'lil of Kalt and of suf^ar. IBeat them together, then place them on the fire and stir until the mixture is thickened. Pour il,, whih' hot, over the cabbage and set it away to cool. OYSTERS A LA NEWBURG IMiU'c tvvciily-fivc liii'ji,(' oyslci-s in a saucepan with one and one half tablespoonfuls of butter, half a cupful of white wine ov a, tablespoonful of lemon juice, and a little pepper and salt, (jook until tlu! oysters are plump, then add lialf a cupful of mushrooms cut into (piarters, and a chopped truffle, if convenient. Beat the yolUs of four eggs into a cupful of creain, tiii-n it into the oyster mixture, and let it get hot and a. little thick'cncd, without boiling. Turn it into a hot dish atid garnish with croutons. Oyslci-s toughen if (tookcd too long, and cream curdles easily when added to a mixture which has acid in it, so it is nectessary to prepai'e this dish (juickly and to serve it at once. SCALLOPS Scallops are the adductor muscle of a large pecten, a mol- lusk connnonly known as scallop. FRIED SCALLOPS ]\Tai-inate Ihe scallops in a mixture of oil, lemon juice, salt, and [X'pper. Koll th(>m in eraeker dust, then in egg, and again in cracker dusi, or while bread crumbs. Fry them in smok- ing-hot fat to a golden coloi'. Prepare but a few at a time so the covering will not be dampened, serve on a napkin with quarters of lemon, and sprinkle over them parsley chopped very fine. NO. :j8. |.,(n:i, ovsti-kh wm, ,,>u, hi.aw. NO 3'J. CKKAMKO I.OliHlKi! / SHELL-FISH — LOBSTERS — FISH C3 SCALLOPS ON THE SHELL Discard the black ring. Cut the scallops into quarters. Place them in the scallop shells. Dredge them with salt, pepper, and chopped parsley, then cover them with a layer of chopped fresh, or canned, mushrooms, some bits of but- ter, a teaspoon fu! of white wine or of lemon juice, for each shell, and lastly with bread crumbs moistened with butter. Place them in a hot oven for ten or fifteen minutes. CREAMED LOBSTER Cut the meat of boiled lobster into inch dice. Put a table- spoonful of butter in a saucepan with a teaspoonful of grated onion, let them cook a minute, then add a tablespoonful of flour. Stir for a few minutes to cook the flour, and then add slowly a cupful of stock and a tablespoonful of lemon juice, or a quarter of a cupful of white wine. When all this thickens add the lobster meat, turning it carefully so as not to break it. When the meat is heated remove it from the fire and mix in a quarter of a cupful of cream which has the yolk of an egg beaten in it. Replace it on the fire for just a minute. Serve in fontage cups or as in illustration No. 39. For Lobster Newburg and other lobster dishes, see ''Cen- tury Cook Book," page 136. BROILED LOBSTER Parboil a lobster. As soon as it begins to turn red take it out. Split it in two down the back. Remove and discai-d the stomach and intestine. Remove the green and the coral. Broil it fifteen to twenty minutes with the shell side to the fire, but turn the flesh side to the coals for a minute before removing it, then at once season it with butter, pepper, and salt. 64 LUNCHEONS INIix the green, which is tlie liver, and the coral with melted butter and use it as a sauce. BROILED SMELTS Select large smelts of equal size. Have them split down the back, the head and tail left on. Dip them in melted but- ter and broil them until they are tender. Lay them evenly on a hot dish and spread them with maitre d 'hotel butter (see page 103). If convenient, arrange a wreath of watercress around the dish. BROILED SHAD ROE AVash and dry the roes, then broil them very slowly and keep them moistened with butter to prevent the skin from breaking. They may also be cooked by sauteing them in but- ter ; or they may be baked in the oven with a little stock or water in the pan to baste them with. Cook them brown. Cover the top with butter, pepper, salt, and a little lemon juice, and sprinkle them with chopped parsley. Garnish vnth lemon and watercress and serve some of the watercress wnth each portion. Serve them with maitre d 'hotel butter. SHAD ROE CROQUETTES Boil shad roes in salted, acidulated water for fifteen min- utes, letting the water simmer only, so that the skin will not break. When they are cold cut them, using a sharp knife, into slices one and one half inches thick. Sprinlde them with salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Roll them first in egg, then in bread crumbs or cracker dust, and fry them in smoking- hot fat to a light brown color. Garnish with watercress and serve them with maitre d 'hotel butter. NO. 40. BROILED SMELTS. NO. 41. BROILED SHAD ROE. NO. 42. SHAD ROE CROQUETTES. SHELL-FISH— LOBSTERS— FISH 65 FILLETS OF FISH Fillets of fisli are the flesh of the fish freed from the skin and bones. (See ''Century Cook Book," page 112.) The fillets of flounder are used to imitate sole, a variety of fish much esteemed in France and England. Sheepshead and other smaller fish also make good fillets. FRIED FILLETS OF FISH Marinate the fillets by letting them lie in a mixture of oil, salt, pepper, lemon juice, and chopped parsley. Take the fillets from the marinade, roll them first in flour, then in egg, and then in white bread crumbs grated from the loaf. Fry them to a lemon color in smoking-hot fat. They must not be cooked too long or they will become dry. They may also be cooked by sauteing, using half butter and half lard. Prepare one fillet at a time, for the covering of flour and crumbs will become damp if it stands long, and then will not crisp. If the fillets are small, serve them piled in crossed layers on a napkin and garnish with quarters of lemon. If they are large, serve with maitre d 'hotel butter or with tartare sauce and garnish with watercress. ROLLED FILLETS OF FLOUNDER Sprinkle each fillet with salt and pepper. Spread it with a mixture made of butter, lemon juice, and parsley cut in pieces, not chopped fine. Fold the fillet over, roll it, and fasten it with a wooden toothpick or small skcAver. Stand the rolled fillets on end in a baking-pan, put a piece of butter on the top of each one, and pour over the whole a half cupful of white cooking wine (California sauterne). Bake them in a moderate oven for twenty minutes, or until tender, and baste them frequently. Arrange the fillets symmetrically on a platter. Put a piece of parsley in the top of each one, and 5 66 LUNCHEONS place in the center of the dish a lemon cut into the shape of a basket. Sprinkle the exposed pulp of the lemon with chopped parsley. Make a sauce to serve with the fish as follows : Add to the drippings, in the pan in which the fish was cooked, a table- spoonful of flour, stir constantly until the flour is cooked, then add enough stock to make a creamy sauce. Add pepper and salt if necessary. BAKED FILLETS OF FISH WITH SAUCE Arrange evenly on a baking-platter fillets of flounder or of sheepshead, or slices of halibut or codfish cut one quarter of an inch thick. Sprinkle them with salt and pepper. Make a sauce as follows: Put a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan, add to it a half teaspoonful of onion juice, cook until the butter has browned, then add a tablespoonful of flour and stir until the flour has browned. Take it off the fire and add very slowly one and a half cupfuls of soup stock, stirring constantly to keep the mixture smooth. Add a tablespoonful of parsley chopped very fine, a teaspoonful of lemon juice, a teaspoonful of salt, one half teaspoonful of pepper, and, if convenient, a teaspoonful of mushroom catsup, or a half cupful of liquor from a can of mush- rooms, or a half cupful of juice strained from a can of tomatoes. Pour the sauce over the fish, lifting the fillets a little to let the sauce run under them. Place the dish in the oven and cook for thirty minutes, or until the fish is tender. If the sauce dries away too much, baste the fish with stock. The cooked sauce should have the consistency of cream. Wlien taken from the oven sprinkle the top with bread crumbs browned in butter and ornament with mashed potato pressed through a pastry-bag and star tube, making a design that will cover the edges of the platter where the sauce has stained it. Set the hot platter on a second platter to serve. 43. ROLLED FILLETS OF FLOUNDER. A PIECE OF PARSLEY PLACED IN THE TOP OF EACH ONE; A LEMON BASKET IN CENTER AND QUARTERS OF LEMON BETWEEN THE FILLETS. NO. 44. BAKED FILLETS OF FISH WITH MUSHROOMS. NO. 45. CREAMED FISH GARNISHED WITH POTATO. NO. 4(i. J'ISII A LA JAPONNAISE, rKlil'AUKI) FOR ISAKlNd AND SHOWING HOW IT MAY HE GAUNISHKI). NO. 47. SMCIOn lUCU.MHKU AUOUNl) A .MOUND Ol' ICI.. TO SI.KVK WITH 1T8H. NO. 48. imaItkk 1)'h6ti:l iturncu. SHELL-FISH— LOBSTERS— FISH 67 Creamed hashed fish can be served in the same manner. After the fish has been mixed with the sauce spread it smoothly on the bal?ing-platter, cover the top with buttered bread crumbs, and set it in the oven to brown. FILLETS OF FISH WITH MUSHROOMS Take fillets of flounder, season them with pepper and salt. Take half a can or more of mushrooms, a slice of onion, and a sprig of parsley, and chop them all fine ; add a cupful of stock and a tablespoonful of sherry. Spread a part of this mixture on the bottom of a platter that can be used in the oven. Lay the fillets of fish on the mixture. Cover them with the rest of the mixture, then with bread crumbs and with small pieces of butter. Bake forty minutes or until the fillets are tender. Heat the rest of the mushrooms in a little stock. Place them around the edges of the dish and pour the stock over the whole if the fillets are at all dry. This dish should be very moist. CREAMED FISH GARNISHED WITH POTATOES Make a good white sauce, or any other sauce preferred. Cut cold boiled fish in pieces one or two inches across and heat them in the sauce without breaking them. Use a plenti- ful amount of the sauce. Turn the fish mixture on to a platter and sprinkle over the top a little parsley chopped very fine. Season some mashed potato with salt, butter, and milk, and beat it until it is light and white. Press it through a pastry-bag with star tube into rosettes, forming a wreath around the creamed fish. FISH A LA JAPONNAISE Make a creamed mince of any kind of fish, or use a fish forcemeat. Canned salmon is very good for the purpose. 68 LUNCHEONS Place the creamed fish on a piece of stiff paper and mold it into the form of a fish. Roll some pie paste very thin. Lay a piece of the paste on one end of the mince and shape it into the form of a fish's tail. Cnt the paste into circles of half an inch diameter, nsing a pastry-tube if a small vegetable-cutter is not at hand. Beginning at the tail, cover the molded fish with little rounds of paste, placing them in even overlapping layers to imitate scales, and mold a piece of pastry to imitate a head and fins. Use half a cranberry or a turned vegetable to imitate an eye. Brush the paste over lightly with yolk of egg and place it in the oven to brown. Slip it carefully off the baking-sheet on to the serv- ing platter. Trim off the paper that projects and garnish. Illustration No. 46 shows a fish ready to bake and the man- ner in which it may be garnished. Chapter VI FIFTH OR SEVENTH COURSE ENTREES ENTREES Eissoles Vol-au-vent Sweetbreads, Baked Sweetbreads, Glazed Sweetbreads, Coquilles of Calf's Brains a la Poiilette Calf's Brains a I'Aurore Calf's Brains with HoUandaise Sauce Calf's Brains with Black Butter Croquettes Timbales of Chicken Timbales of Liver Mushrooms, Baked Mushrooms, Stuffed Tomatoes, Stuffed Green Peppers, Stuffed Baked Tomatoes and Fontage Cups Jardiniere Vegetarian Dish RISSOLES Roll puff paste about one eighth of an inch thick. Put a teaspoonful of meat of any kind at intervals on the paste, about three inches from the edge. Moisten the paste around the meat-ball, fold over the paste, and press it lightly around the meat. Stamp it with a fluted biscuit-cutter into half cir- cles, leaving the meat on the straight side and an inch of paste around the meat on the round side. , Egg the top and bake from fifteen to twenty minutes in a hot oven. VOL-AU-VENT Roll puff paste (see page 154) three quarters of an inch to an inch in thickness. Stamp it with a cutter, or if this is not convenient use a tin, of the size desired, for a gage ; lay the tin lightly on the paste, and with a sharp knife cut around it with a quick, firm stroke so as to press the paste as little as possible; then with a sharp-pointed knife cut a ring around the form, leaving a border about an inch wide, and do not let the knife penetrate the paste more than an eighth of an inch. Brush the top with the yolk of an egg, dilute it with a little water, and set it away to cool. Bake it in a hot oven as directed for puff paste for thirty minutes, and do not open the oven door during the first fifteen min- utes. It should rise to about three times its usual thickness. AVhen it is well dried and a good light-brown color, remove it from the oven and let it stand for a few minutes, then carefully lift out the centerpiece and remove all the un- 71 72 LUNCHEONS cooked paste. Set it in the oven again to dry the inside. The uncooked pieces can also be returned to the oven for a few minutes, and when dry be put back into the shell. Although puff paste is better when used at once, it will keep very well for several days, and will be perfectly crisp and tender if well heated in the oven just before being used. When ready to serve fill the center with any salpieon, place the little cover on top, and set the vol-au-vent on a lace-paper. The filling must not be put in until just before sending it to the table, as it will soften the pastry if it stands in it for any length of time. SALPICON For filling vol-au-vent or patty shells. Salpieon is made of cooked chicken, sweetbreads, veal, or calf's brains cut into small dice, mixed with mushrooms, a little chopped truffle and chopped tongue. One meat alone, or a combination of two or more, may be used. The mixture is then combined with enough good sauce to make it creamy. A white sauce should be used with white meats; a brown sauce when the dark meat and livers of chicken are used. ^^See "Century Cook Book," pages 80-299.) A plain white sauce is made as follows : Put a tablespoon- ful of butter in a saucepan. When the butter is hot add a tablespoonful of flour and cook them together for a few min- utes, not letting them brown ; remove from the fire and add a cupful of stock. Add the liquor very slowly at first, stirring constantly to keep it smooth. Return the sauce to the fire, add a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter teaspoonful of pepper, and a little cream, if convenient. Stir constantly until the sauce is thickened. Lastly, add the beaten yolks of one or two eggs to the sauce after it has been taken off the fire. NO. 49. RISSOLES. NO. 50. VOL-AC-VENT. NO. 51. BAKED SWEETBREAD* Wini >.VLr PoKK UN TOP. ENTREES 73 SWEETBREADS Sweetbreads are the thymus gland and the pancreas of calves and lambs. They are commonly called by butchers the throat and the stomach, or heart, sweetbreads. The former is the larger, the latter is the whiter, rounder, and more delicate. TO PREPARE SWEETBREADS Soak the sweetbreads in cold water for two hours, changing the water several times. Put them on the fire in cold water. When they are whitened and firm to the touch, or parboiled, remove and immerse them again in cold water to blanch them. Remove all the pipes, fibers, and fatty substance. Roll each one in a piece of cheese-cloth, draw the cloth tight and tie it at the ends, pressing the sweetbread into an oval shape. Place them under a light weight for several hours. BAKED SWEETBREADS Parboil and blanch the sweetbreads. Marinate them by standing them for two hours in a mixture of one beaten egg, a teaspoonful of onion juice, one half teaspoonful of salt, one quarter teaspoonful of pepper, and one tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Turn them in the marinade occa- sionally so they will absorb the seasoning. Roll them in cracker dust and place them in a pan on very thin slices of salt pork, and place a thin slice of pork on top of each one. Bake in a hot oven fifteen or twenty minutes, or until they are tender and brown. The pork will crisp and the sweetbread will brown around it. Serve with a sauce made as follows: Brown a little flour in the drippings left in the pan, then add a little flour or stock, a little lemon juice, and what is left of the marinade. 74 LUNCHEONS Stir it until it has the consistency of thick cream and strain it on to the platter. Place the sweetbreads upon the sauce. GLAZED SWEETBREADS Place sweetbreads, prepared as directed on page 73, in a saute-pan with butter and a few slices of onion. Saute them for a few minutes on both sides, then place them in the oven to finish cooking. Put a little stock in the baking- pan and baste them frequently to brown and glaze them. Serve them as in illustration, or place them around a pile of green peas. COaUILLES OF SWEETBREADS Parboil one pair of sweetbreads. Trim and put them under a light weight to cool. When they are cold and firm cut them into dice. Saute them in a tablespoonful of butter for a few minutes, then add a cupful of button mushrooms cut in quarters, a tablespoonful of white wine or of lemon juice, a dash of pepper, a saltspoonful of salt, and cook them until tender, then add a white sauce as given below, and turn over the mixture until it is creamy. Fill shells with the mixture, cover the tops with white bread crumbs wet with melted butter, and place them in the oven to brown. Chicken, turkey, or veal can be used instead of sweetbreads in the same way. Sauce : Put a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan ; when it bubbles, add a tablespoonful of flour. Cook the flour a few minutes, but do not let it brown. Remove it from the fire and add, while stirring all the time, a half cupful of stock, chicken stock preferred, a dash of nutmeg and of pepper, and a saltspoonful of salt. Put the saucepan on the fire again and stir until the sauce has thickened, then add two tablespoonfuls of cream. NO. 52. GLAZED SWEETBREADS. NO. 53. COQUILLES OF SWEETBREADS. ENTREES 75 Any pretty bivalve shell of suitable size may be used for holding this or other creamed mixtures. The illustration shows pecten and cardium shells. TO PREPARE CALF'S BRAINS Calf 's brains, in whatever way they are to be served, must be prepared in the following manner: Soak the brains in cold water for some time to extract all the blood. Trim them, removing the membranes and fibers, without breaking the brains apart. Place them in hot water with a bay-leaf, soup vegetables, a few peppercorns, a teaspoonful of salt, and a tablespoonful of vinegar. Cook them for half an hour, let- ting the water simmer only. When done immerse them in cold water to blanch them. CALF'S BRAINS No. 1. A la poulette. Cut the brains in halves or quarters. Arrange them in a circle around mushrooms and pour over the whole a Avhite sauce made partly of stock, and the beaten yolks of two eggs with a little cream added after the sauce is taken from the fire. Garnish with croutons or cut the brains into large dice, mix them with the same sauce, and serve them in individual cups. No. 2. A Taurore. Cut the brains into dice ; add the chopped whites of three or four hard-boiled eggs to each pair of brains. Add a teaspoonful of parsley chopped very fine, and a saltspoonful of salt. Moisten with white sauce and place the mixture in a baking-dish. Cover the top with crumbed yolks, and over the yolks spread a thin layer of white bread crumbs wet with butter. Set the dish in the oven to brown the crumbs. 76 LUNCHEONS No. 3. With HoUandaise sauce. Cut the brains in halves. Place each piece on a round of bread which has been browned in butter. Pour over the whole a HoUan- daise sauce, or a white sauce to which has been added, after taking it from the fire, the beaten yolk of an egg and a tablespoonful of parsley chopped very fine. No. 4. With black butter. Cut the brains into thick slices. Cook two tablespoonfuls of butter in a saute-pan until it is brown. Lay in the slices of brains and color them on both sides. Arrange them in a dish, sprinkle them with chopped parsley, pepper, and salt. Add a tea- spoonful of vinegar to the butter, and strain it over the brains. CROQUETTES Croquettes can be made of chicken or turkey or veal, alone, but are much nicer when the meat is mixed with sweet- breads or calf's brains and mushrooms. The meat mixture must be chopped very fine. Make a sauce as follows : Put a tablespoonful of butter and a half teaspoonful of onion juice into a saucepan. When it bubbles add two table- spoonfuls of flour and cook it a few minutes without brown- ing, then add slowly, so as to keep it smooth, A cupful of jellied stock, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1 saltspoonful of pepper, A dash of paprika, A dash of celery salt, A dash of nutmeg. Cook until the sauce has thickened a little. Remove it from the fire, stir in a beaten egg and two cupfuls of minced meat. Turn it on to a tin platter and place it on the ice to set. NO. 54. CHICKEN CKOQUETTE8. NO. 55. TIMBALES OF CHICKEN. ENTREES 77 When the mixture is set mold the croquettes into shapes pointed at one end. Cover them with egg diluted with a very little water, to break the stringiness of the whites, then cover them with bread crumbs. Crumbs grated from the loaf give a better color than dried crumbs composed partly of crusts. Fry the croquettes in smoking-hot fat to a light-brown color, and until a thin crust is formed. Place them on paper in the open oven to dry and keep hot until all are fried. Arrange them symmetrically on a platter and stick a paper frill into the pointed end of each one. These frills are fastened to a little stick. They can be bought at confectioners'. It is important to use for the sauce stock which jellies, as it hardens the mixture and makes it easy to mold, while it softens when the croquettes are fried, making them very creamy. Stock will jelly if a knuckle of veal is used in mak- ing it. If jellied stock is not at hand, put a level teaspoonful of soaked gelatine into a cupful of any stock or of milk. CHICKEN TIMBALES Lay raw chicken breasts on a board and scrape off the meat, thus separating it from the large fibers. Put the scraped meat in a mortar with the white of an egg and pound it to separate it still more from the fibers, then rub it through a puree sieve. Soak some crumb of bread with milk, stir it to a smooth paste, and cook it until it leaves the sides of the pan. This makes a panada. Take a half cupful of the fine chicken meat, a quarter of a cupful of panada, one egg, a half teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper and of nutmeg. Beat them all well together, then fold in lightly a half cupful of cream whipped to a stiff froth. This quantity of material will make six individual tim- bales. 78 LUNCHEONS Butter the timbale molds well, ornament them with slices of truffle cut into fancy shapes, or with chopped truffle sprinkled over the surface. Put the mixture into the molds carefully with a small spoon so as not to disarrange the decoration, and fill them to within a quarter of an inch of the top. Set them in a pan of hot water. Cover them with a greased paper and poach them in the oven for five to eight minutes, or until they are firm to the touch. Turn the timbales on to a flat dish and pour around them a white sauce made with chicken stock and the yolks of two eggs diluted with two tablespoonfuls of cream added the last thing. (See Allemande and Poulette sauces, "Century Cook Book," pages 279-280.) LIVER TIMBALES Cut two pounds of liver into large pieces and rub them through a grater. Moisten a half cupful of crumb of bread and a half cupful of flour with a cupful of milk. Fry the slices of half an onion in a tablespoonful of butter until they are tender, then remove them and turn into the pan the mixture of bread, flour, and milk. Stir until it is cooked to a smooth paste. Put into a bowl two cupfuls of liver pulp, the bread paste, a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, and a dash of paprika. Mix them well together and add, one at a time, four eggs, beating in each one well, then add enough cream to make rather a thin batter. Pass the whole through a puree sieve. Beat it well again and turn it into molds. This amount of mixture will fill twelve individual timbale molds and one pint mold, the latter to be used cold (see page 127). Fill the individual timbale molds to within a quarter of an inch of the top, set them into a pan of hot water, cover them KO. 56. BAKED MUSHROOMS »)N TOASl. THK BREAD STAMPED IN LEAF SHAPES' NO. 57. STUFFED TOMATOES. ENTREES 79 with a greased paper, and poach them in the oven for fifteen to twenty minutes, or until firm to the touch. Turn the timbales on to a fiat dish and pour around them a little good brown sauce. The molds may be ornamented, if desired, the same as chicken timbales, using the white of hard-boiled eggs instead of truffles. For other timbale receipts, see "Century Cook Book," page 296. BAKED MUSHROOMS Cut the mushroom stems off even with the caps. Peel the caps and stand them on a dish with the gills up. Sprinkle them with pepper and salt and let them stand until moisture gathers on them. Cut sliced bread with a biscuit-cutter into rounds, or if convenient use a fancy cutter. Illustration shows bread cut with a leaf -shaped stamp. Dip the pieces of bread into water to moisten them, but do not let them get soggy. Place them on a baking-tin and sprinkle with pepper and salt and bits of butter. Arrange the mushrooms on them, one or more according to size, with the gills up. Bake about thirty minutes, or until tender. Watch them carefully so they will not get overdone or too dry. Baste with melted butter, if necessary, while they are baking. STUFFED MUSHROOMS Cut the stems off close to the gills. Peel the caps. Cut the stems fine. Saute all the parts together in butter. Remove the caps when they are tender and before they lose shape. After the caps are removed add six drops of onion juice and a teaspoonful of flour. Let the flour cook a few min- utes and then add a quarter of a cupful of stock and a table- spoonful of minced chicken or livers, pepper, and salt, and stir until the mixture is thickened. 80 LUNCHEONS Place a little of this mixture on the gills of each mush- room. This quantity is enough for six or eight large caps. Use the stuffed mushrooms for garnishing meat dishes, or serve them separately as an entree on rounds of bread which have been browned in butter. STUFFED TOMATOES Select smooth, round tomatoes of equal size. Cut a slice off the stem end. Remove carefully the pulp and fill the shells with any of the mixtures given below. Cover the top of the stuffing with bread crumbs moistened with melted butter. Bake them about one half hour, or until they are tender, but not fallen out of shape. Have a little water in the bottom of the baking-pan. Use them for garnishing meat dishes, or serve them on rounds of browned bread as an entree. STUFFING FOR TOMATOES No. 1. Chop fine a half cupful of canned mushrooms, add a half or three quarters of a cupful of crumb of bread and the pulp taken from six tomatoes, a table- spoonful of chopped ham or of chicken, if conve- nient, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, six drops of onion juice, a teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper, and a teaspoonful of melted butter. If the mixture is not sufficiently moistened by the tomato juice add enough stock to make it quite wet. No. 2. Use equal parts of minced meat (chicken or veal preferred) and crumb of bread, add the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs. Season with chopped parsley, a lit- tle onion juice, pepper, and salt. Moisten with the pulp taken from the tomatoes, or with stock, or with both of them. NO. 58. BAKED STUFFED TOMATOES AND FONTAGE C0PS. NO. 59. .TAIiDINltliE. 60. VEGETARIAN DISH. KING OF RICE FILLED WITH CORN. CUPS HOLDING LIMA BEANS. ENTREES 81 No. 3. Use boiled rice mixed with chopped green peppers, a few drops of onion juice, pepper, and salt. Moisten with the pulp taken from the tomato, or with stock. No. 4. Boil macaroni, broken into half-inch lengths, until tender. Moisten it with well-seasoned white sauce, and add some grated cheese, a little pepper and salt, and a dash of paprika. STUFFED GREEN PEPPERS Select green peppers of equal size. Cut a piece off the stem end, or cut them lengthwise. Remove the seeds and ribs. Parboil them, stuff them with any of the mixtures given for stuffed tomatoes, using stock instead of tomato- pulp for moistening. Bake with a little water in a pan for fifteen to twenty minutes, or until they are tender, but not so long as to allow them to lose their shape. Sprinkle a little parsley chopped fine over the tops just before serving them. BAKED TOMATOES AND FONTAGE CUPS Place in the center of the dish stuffed tomatoes (see page 80) and place around them f outage cups filled with eggs a I'aurore, as in illustration, or with any well-seasoned vegetable, or minced meat. Put a handle made of celery in each cup, to resemble a basket. Eggs a I'aurore are chopped hard-boiled eggs moistened with white sauce. JARDINIERE The illustration shows a variety of vegetables served to- gether, or a la jardiniere. This dish can be used as a course or vegetable entree, and is particularly appreciated where one has an abundance of fresh vegetables from the garden. The vegetables should 82 LUNCHEONS be well seasoned and arranged with regard to color so as to give a pleasing effect. The combination used in the illustration is a cauliflower, green peas, string beans, lima beans, corn, macedoine, and baked tomatoes. VEGETARIAN DISH After boiling enough rice to fill a ring mold, steam it until it is quite dry, and until the grains are separated. Mix the rice with enough thick white sauce to moisten it. Butter a ring-mold well and sprinkle it thickly with white bread crumbs (crumbs grated from the loaf). Put in the prepared rice and place the ring in a pan, the bottom of which is cov- ered with a very little water. Cover the top with greased paper, and bake for half an hour, or until the crumbs are brown. Turn the browned ring on a platter. Fill the center with any vegetable, and place around the outside fontage cups holding a second vegetable. In the illustration the ring is filled with corn, and the cups hold small lima beans. A good combination is baked tomatoes alternating with fontage cups holding macedoine of vegetables, the ring hold- ing green peas. The same style of dish may be made with meat. The ring may be made with mashed potato and hold minced creamed meat. Chapter VII SIXTH COURSE MEATS MEATS Casserole of Beef Fillet of Beef Filets Mignons Filets Mignons with Tomatoes and Mushrooms Mutton Chops a la Soubise Mutton Chops with Horseradish Sauce Mutton Chops Boned, with Arti- chokes Mutton Chops Boned, with Mush- rooms Leg of Mutton a la Jardiniere Leg of Mutton Slices Cottage Pie Meat and Potato Pie Minced Meat with Potato Eings Minced Ham and Eggs Veal Chops Veal a I'ltalienne Veal Cutlets, Small Grenadines of Veal Pork Tenderloins with Fried Apples VEGETABLES AND CEREALS USED AS VEGETABLES Potatoes, Stuffed Baked Potatoes, Puree of Kice a la Milanese Baked Hominy Quenelles of Cornmeal Boiled Lettuce Tomato Farci Broiled Tomatoes Spinach Bean Croquettes CHICKEN Casserole of Chicken, No. 1 Casserole of Chicken, No, 2 Chicken, Panned ) Can he used in > placeof gamein Chicken, Smothered ^ ninth course. Chicken Fried in Cream Chicken Joints Chicken en Surprise Forcemeat White Sauce Brown Sauce Supreme Sauce Tomato Puree HoUandaise Sauce SAUCES Maitre d 'Hotel Butter Glaze To Make Glaze Hard Sauce Liquid Sauces CASSEROLE OF BEEF Saute three or four sliced onions in a tablespoonful of but- ter. Put them when soft into the casserole. Cut a steak, taken from the upper side of the round, into pieces suitable for one portion. Put them in the saute-pan and sear them on all sides, then put them in the casserole. Add a table- spoonful of flour to the saute-pan, let it brown, then add slowly a cupful and a half of water and stir until it is a little thickened, season with a teaspoonful of salt, a half tea- spoonful of pepper, and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Add, if convenient, a little Worcestershire sauce and a little mushroom catsup. The sauce should be highly seasoned, and such condiments as are at hand may be used. The sauce will be richer if stock is used instead of water. Turn the sauce over the meat, cover the casserole, set it in the oven and cook slowly until the meat is tender, then cover the top with parboiled sliced potato and return it to the oven for a few minutes to finish cooking the potatoes. The sauce should be of the consistency of cream, and there should not be a great quantity of it. Serve in the casserole. FILLET OF BEEF The fillet or tenderloin of beef is taken from the under side of the loin. It is the most tender and the most expensive cut of the beef, costing from eighty cents to a dollar a pound. The whole fillet is used as a roast. When sliced it is given different names. Cuts from the middle, which is the thick- est part, are Chateaubriands. The Chateaubriand is cut one and a half to three quarters of an inch thick, trimmed, tied into a neatly rounded shape, and struck lightly with the flat 85 86 LUNCHEONS side of the cleaver to smooth the top and reduce the thick- ness to one and a quarter or one and a half inches. It is cooked and served as a steak. The next pieces are the mignon fillets. These are pre- pared in the same way as the Chateaubriand and should be about one inch thick and from two and a half to three inches across when finished. They may be broiled or cooked on a hot pan. Cuts from the small ends are noisettes and turnedos ; the former are cut one half of an inch thick and cooked in a saute-pan ; the latter are cut one quarter of an inch thick, and are cooked in a saute-pan for five minutes only. The noisettes and turnedos should be brushed with glaze before serving (see Glaze, page 104). Grenadines are cut lengthwise from the thin end of the fillet and trimmed into chop-shaped pieces. They are larded, sauted in a little butter, and cooked five to eight minutes. FILETS MIGNONS Prepare and cook the fillets as directed above. Arrange them in a circle overlapping one another and fill the center of the circle with fried potatoes. Lay on each fillet a half slice of lemon sprinkled with chopped parsley. The center of the circle may be filled with potato, mashed, balls, puffed, straws, etc., or with a vegetable such as peas, beans, macedoine, etc. The fillets may also be served with a bearnaise or a mush- room sauce. FILETS MIGNON WITH TOMATOES AND MUSHROOMS Prepare the fillets as directed on this page. Have them of uniform size. Broil them over coals or on a hot pan. Turn them very often so they will cook slowly and when done NO. 61. FILLETS MIGNON8 ARRANGKD IN CIRCLK. HALF A SLICE OF LKMON ON EACH FILLET. FKIED POTATOES IN CENTER. NO. 02. FILLETS MIGNON8. EACH FILLET COVEUED WITH A SLICE OF IJROILED TOMATO AND A STUFFED MUSHROOM. FANCY SKEWER ON RIGHT OP DLSH. MEATS 87 have an even red color all through. The broiling will take eight to ten minutes. Cover the tops with maitre d 'hotel butter (page 103), or butter, pepper and salt, and chopped parsley. Arrange them in a circle on one end of a platter. Place on each ona a slice of broiled tomato (see page 97), and on the tomato a stuffed mushroom (page 79). On one side of the platter place an ornamental skewer stuck into a shaped piece of uncooked vegetable of sufficient size. The skewer in illustration has a mushroom on top, then a slice of lemon, then a row of small carrots strung on a thread, a slice of Icmoi) lo hold th(3 carrots in place, and then the foliage of the carrots. It is stuck into a raw pars- nip cut so it stands firm. The skewer is for ornamenting the dish only. CHOPS A LA SOUBISE ]*ut soubise sauce in the center of the dish and arrange broiled French chops standing in a ring around it. Place a ring of fried onion over each chop bone. French chops are cut from the rack and trimmed so as to leave the upper half of the bone bare. SOUBISE SAUCE Boil six white onions for ten minutes. Cut them in pieces, put them in a saucepan with one quarter of a pound of butter and cook them very slowly indeed for a long time or until they are soft. The onions must cook so slowly that they do not color. Add a tablespoonful of flour. After the flour is cooked remove the onions from the fire, add one cupful of cream, and pass the whole through a sieve. Add a very little pepper and salt. This sauce should be white and have the consistency of thick cream. 88 LUNCHEONS CHOPS WITH HORSERADISH SAUCE Arrange French chops down the middle of the platter, with the chops overlapping and the bones crossing. Place a piece of bread under the first two to support and lift the bones off the dish ; the rest are then easily arranged in a symmetrical manner. Garnish the dish with spoonfuls of horseradish sauce, or serve the sauce in a separate dish. HORSERADISH SAUCE Grate fresh horseradish root and mix wath it enough whipped cream to make it light and to reduce sufficiently the sharpness of the horseradish. The horseradish absorbs the cream, and a few more spoonfuls of the cream are needed than of the grated horseradish. The sauce should not be mixed until just before serving. CHOPS GARNISHED WITH ARTICHOKES These chops are cut from the rack. They are cut an inch thick, the bones removed, and the meat turned and tied into round pieces. They are then struck with the flat side of the cleaver to smooth and flatten them a little. Broil the chops, spread them with butter, and sprinkle them with chopped parsley, pepper, and salt. Arrange them symmetrically on a platter and place on each one an arti- choke bottom holding a little good sauce, such as bearnaise or Hollandaise, or even melted butter, and a few green peas. Artichoke bottoms come i» cans and can be purchased from a grocer. The French ones are the best. They do not need any more cooking, but should be heated by placing them jn hot water. NO. 63. CHOPS 1 LA SOUBI8E. NO. 64. MUTTON CHOPS WITH HORS'ERADISH SAUCE. NO. 65. BONED MUTTON CHOPS WITH ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS HOLDING GREEN PEAS. NO. 66. BONED LOIN CHOPS WITH MUSHROOMS AND PEAS. NO. 67. CARVED LEG OF MUTTON A LA JAKDIMERE. NO. 68. SLICES OF MUTTON A l.A JARDINIERE. MEATS 89 BONED CHOPS WITH MUSHROOMS These chops should be cut an inch and a quarter thick from the loin, the bone then carefully removed, some of the fat taken out, and the thin end piece drawn around and fastened with a wooden skewer, giving a perfectly round chop. Have them uniform in size. Cook them on a hot pan. Turn them frequently after the surfaces are seared so they will cook evenly and slowly. If preferred, they can be broiled over hot coals, but are then more likely to lose their shape and the skewers will be burned. Arrange the chops flat on the dish in a circle with the skewers pointing out. Cover the top of each chop with a sauce made of the chopped mushroom stems, and place in the center of each chop a large mushroom cap. Place a paper frill on each skewer. Fill the center of the ring of chops with green peas or any small vegetable, or with mashed or fried potatoes. TO PREPARE THE MUSHROOMS Select large mushrooms, those not fully opened preferred, as they stand higher. Cut the stems off even with the caps. Peel the caps. Chop the stems. Put all in a pan with butter and saute them until tender. Remove the caps as soon as they are tender, and before they have flattened out. Add a little stock, or water, to the pan, and a little flour. Stir until the sauce is thickened to the consistency of cream, sea- son with a little salt and pepper. Use this sauce for the tops of the chops. LEG OF MUTTON A LA JARDINIERE Cut a roasted leg of mutton in thick slices and run the knife under the slices to free them, but leave them in place. Conceal the bone with a paper frill. Arrange around the 90 LUNCHEONS dish a variety of vegetables. In illustration No. 67 the vegetables are boiled potato balls, macedoine, and string beans cut in two ways, lengthwise and across diagonally into one half inch pieces. Arrange slices cut from a roasted leg of mutton on one end of a large platter. Cover the rest of the dish with a variety of seasoned vegetables. The vegetables used in illus- tration No. 68 are cauliflower, string beans, lima beans, and green peas. COTTAGE PIE Peel a good-sized onion, stick into it half a dozen whole cloves, and place it in the center of an earthenware baking- dish, or a granite-ware basin, or, best of all, the baking- pan of a double pudding-dish. Cut any cold meat into small and rather thin slices. Roll each piece in flour mixed with pepper and salt. Arrange the pieces of meat around the onion, filling the dish three quarters full. Put the bone of the meat and all of the scraps into a saucepan, cover them with cold water, add a bay-leaf and soup vegetables, and simmer the whole for an hour or longer. Strain off the stock. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan with a tea- spoonful of onion juice, let it brown, then add a tablespoon- ful of the flour used for rolling the meat, let the flour brown, then add one and a half cupfuls of the stock and stir until it becomes a little thickened. Add more pepper and salt if necessary, and a dash of mustard and of nutmeg, also a few drops of Worcestershire sauce, if convenient. Let this sauce become a little cooled, then pour it over the meat, and cover the whole with mashed potato. The potato should be seasoned by adding to it a little hot milk, with melted but- ter in it, and a little salt, and then be whipped with a fork until it is smooth, light, and white. The potato may be MEATS 91 put through a ricer over the meat, or be piled on it roughly and scratched with a fork into cone shape, or be put through a pastry-bag with star tube as in illustration. In the latter case it must have the white of an egg mixed with it in order to hold its form when baked. Touch the potato lightly over the top with yolk of egg diluted with milk to make it brown well. Put the dish in the oven for ten to fif- teen minutes, or long enough to brown the potato a little and heat the meat. When the sauce begins to bubble through the potato at the edges it is done. The meat, having been cooked already, will be toughened if cooked a second time and needs only to be heated. Wrap a folded napkin around the dish before sending it to the table in case a kitchen basin has been used. This is a presentable dish and will be well liked. MEAT AND POTATO PIE Butter a pie-plate, spread over it like an under-crust well- seasoned mashed potato. Spread it about a quarter of an inch thick on the bottom. Make a border two inches wide, and thick enough to rise a little above the dish. Score the top of the potato border with a fork and touch it lightly with egg. Fill the center with rare cold beef or mutton cut into dice. Pour over the meat well-seasoned browned sauce and sprinkle the top with a few buttered bread crumbs. Do not let any of the sauce get on the potato border. Place it in the oven for a few minutes to brown. MINCED MEAT WITH POTATO RINGS Mince any kind of meat. Make it creamy with brown sauce for dark meat, or with white sauce for veal or chicken ; or moisten the minced meat with stock, add pepper and salt, a few drops of onion juice, and, if convenient, a little 92 LUNCHEONS tomato. Chopped mushrooms added to the mince improve it very much. Spread the creamed mince fiat on the dish, or form a mound as in illustration. Sprinkle the top with crumbs browned in butter. Mash some boiled potatoes, season them with butter, salt, and enough milk to moisten them well, and one or two beaten eggs ; one egg is enough for a pint of potato. Beat the potato until it is light and white. Press it through a pastry- bag with star tube into rings. Paint the rings with yolk of egg diluted with a little milk and put them in the oven to brown. The potato will not hold its form unless the egg is added. Arrange the rings around the minced meat and fill the centers with corn and spinach alternately, as in illustra- tion, or with any other vegetables. MINCED HAM AND EGGS Mince boiled ham very fine. Moisten it with white sauce. Form it into a mound and cover it with crumbed yolks of hard-boiled eggs. Cut the whites of the eggs into strips and arrange them around the ham. VEAL CHOPS Cut thin chops from the rack and trim them like French mutton chops. Leave the bone two and a half inches long. Strike the meat with a cleaver to flatten it out to two and a half inches in diameter. Chop the trimmings very fine, season them with pepper and salt and a few drops of onion juice. Spread the mince over the chops in an even layer. Egg and bread-crumb them and saute them until thoroughly cooked. Serve on a dish with a little sauce made from the drippings in the saute-pan, or with a itoffiato sauce. Serve spinach with this dish. NO. 69. COTTAGE PIE. NO. 70. MINCED MEAT GARNISHED WITH POTATO RINGS HOLDING V EGETABLES. NO. 71. MINCED MEAT UK ilSU GAKNISHED WITH MASUED POTATOES. NO. 72. MINCED HAM AND EGGS. NO. 73. VEAL A L'lTALIENNE. NO. 74. SMALL VEAL CUTLETS. MEATS 93 VEAL A L'lTALIENNE Divide a veal cutlet into uniform small pieces and tie them to make tlie pieces round and keep them in shape until cooked, when the strings are cut and removed. One cutlet from the top of the leg of veal will cut into eight pieces. Dredge the small cutlets with salt and pepper. Dip them into egg, and then cover them with bread crumbs. Saute them iii the fat tried out of thin slices of salt pork. It will take from ten to fifteen minutes to cook them. Veal should be thoroughly cooked, but not dried. The meat will be white when cooked. Put a little lemon juice on each cutlet. Boil the required amount of spaghetti in salted water until it is tender, then steam it until dry so the sauce will adhere to it. Mix it with tomato puree and a few thin strips of boiled ham cut into straws one and a half inches long. Pile the spaghetti in the center of the dish and arrange the cutlets around it. Place the crisp slices of salt pork on the dish. SMALL VEAL CUTLETS Cut and tie the cutlets into rounds as directed in above receipt. Dredge them in salt and pepper and roll them in flour. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a saute-pan, when it is hot add half a teaspoonful of grated onion, let it cook for a minute, then add the cutlets and cook them until done and well browned, turning them several times. Remove the cutlets. Sprinkle in the pan a teaspoonful of flour, let it cook a minute, then add slowly half a cupful of stock, stirring all the time to keep it smooth. Remove it from the fire and stir in a small bit of butter and the yolks 94 LUNCHEONS of one or two eg'gs mixed with a tablespoonf iil of hot water ; season Avith salt and pepper. If the sauce is too thick, dilute it with a little hot water or stock. It should have the consis- tency of cream. Strain it on to the serving dish. Place the cutlets upon the sauce, arranging them in a line in the center of the dish, one on top of another, and place around them hard-boiled eggs cut in two lengthwise. GRENADINES OF VEAL Cut a thin veal cutlet into small pieces and tie the pieces into rounds about two inches in diameter. Lard them. Put then in a baking-pan with a few trimmings of the larding pork, a sliced onion, and enough stock to half cover them. Place them in the oven and cook until the stock has fallen to a glaze. Baste them frequently so they will be well glazed. Arrange them on a dish and pour around them a sauce made from the drippings in the pan, as follows : Add a little stock or water to the pan and a little browned flour, if necessary, to thicken it. Then strain it. A little ham cut into thin strips an inch long improves the sauce. PORK TENDERLOINS Saute tenderloins of pork until cooked and browned. Ar- range the tenderloins evenly on a dish and place around them sauted slices of apples. Cut apples across into slices quarter of an inch thick, stamp out the cores with a small biscuit-cutter, but do not remove the skin. Saute the rings of apple in the drippings of the pork until they are tender, but not until they have lost shape. NO. 75. GRENADINES OF VEAL. NO. 76. PORK TENDERLOINS GARNISHED WITH SLICES OF APPLE SAUTED. NO. 77. STUFFED BAKED POTATOES. NO. 78. POTATO PURHE. KO. 79. INDIVIDUAL MOLDS OF SPINACH GARNISHED AVITH CHOPPED WHITE OF EGG. NO. 80. SPINACH, NO. 2. MEATS 95 VEGETABLES AND CEREALS USED AS VEGETABLES STUFFED BAKED POTATOES Select potatoes of the same size and shape. After carefully washing them, bake them until tender, then cut them in two lengthwise and remove the pulp of the potato, leaving the skins uninjured. Season the potato with butter, salt, and a little milk. Beat it well and replace it in the potato skins. Smooth the top with a knife, brush them with yolk of egg, and set in the oven to brown. POTATO PUREE Mash and season the potatoes and add enough milk or hot water to make them quite soft. Take up a spoonful of potato at a time and place it on a flat dish in a regular order. Place a small sprig of parsley on each spoonful. RICE A LA MILANESE Put two tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan with a teaspoonf ul of onion chopped fine. Cook for a minute, but do not brown. Add half a cupful of clean, unwashed rice, and stir until it is a light yellow, then add two cupfuls of stock and cook without stirring for twenty minutes. The rice should be tender and the stock should be absorbed. Add a tablespoonful of grated cheese and a little salt. Turn it lightly together, using a fork, so as not to break the rice. Cover the top with grated cheese. Serve as a vegetable-dish or as a course for luncheon. In the latter case brush the inside of a ring-mold with glaze, add to the rice a teaspoonful of butter in small bits, and a dash 9G LUNCHEONS of i)nprika. Press it lij^litly into the mold niul set it in the oven for a few minutes. A l)rt)\vn or a tomato sauce may be served with it if desired. BAKED HOMINY To two cupfuls of eold boikHl hominy add a beaten egg, 11 wee (juarters of a cuprul of milk, and a half teaspoonful of salt, lieat it until perfectly smooth. Put it into a baldng- dish. smooth the to{), pour over it a teaspoonful of melted butter, and bake it until it t'oi-ms a golden surface. Serve it in the bakinii-dish in place of a vegetable. aUENELLES OF CORNMEAL Put a cupful of milk and a cupful and a half of water in a saucepan and add a teaspoonful of salt. When it boils stir in slowly half a cupful of yellow meal and cook for tifteen to twenty minutes, and until the mixture is well thickened. Then take it off the tire. When it is cold and stilfened take it up in spoonfuls and lay the egg-shaped pieces formed by the spoon in a baking-dish. Place the pieces in the dish symmetrically. Pour over them a little melted butter and set them in the oven to brown slightly. Serve as a vegetable. BOILED LETTUCE Wash thoroughly whole heads of lettuce. Tie the tops so the leaves w^Il lie together. Place the heads in a large pan so they do not touch and boil them in salted water until tender. Remove them carefully and let them drain on a sieve, pressing each one to free it of water. Lay them in a row on a flat dish and pour over them a sauce made of melted butter, peppt-r and salt, and a little vinegar; or use a plain white sauce. MEATS 97 TOMATO FARCI Select tomatoes of equal size, and if they are small use them whole, if large cut them in two. Peel them. Arrange them close together in a flat earthen baking-dish which can be sent to the table. Sprinkle them with salt and ijepper. Spread over the top a mixture of chopped mushrooms, bread crumbs, chopped parsley, and sufficient butter to moisten the bread, liak*- about thirty minutes, or until the tomatoes are softened. Set the hot baking-dish on a second dish when serving. BROILED TOMATOES Without removing the skin, cut fresh tomatoes into slices three eighths of an inch thick. Sprinkle the slices with pepper and salt and dip them first in melted butter or in oil and then in cracker or bread crumbs, then broil them over hot coals until they are softened. Do not let them cook so much that they fall apart. SPINACH Boil carefully washed and carefully picked over spinach until it is tender, drain it, chop it very fine, and press it through a puree sieve. Season it with white sauce made of half milk and half stock (page 102) . Use enough of the sauce to make it quite creamy. If it is to be molded it cannot be quite as soft as when it is to be served in a vegetable-dish. No. 1. Fill thoroughly buttered individual timbale molds with spinach and press it down quite hard. After a few minutes, turn the spinach out of the molds on to rounds of browned bread. Cover the tops with chopped whites of hard-boiled eggs and place in the center a spot of the crumbed yolks. 98 LUNCHEONS Serve alone or use as a garnish on a meat-dish. This is a good way to utilize a small amount of left- over spinach. Spinach is improved rather than in- jured by recooking. No. 2. Make a mound of spinach by pressing it into a buttered bowl. Ornament the top with a hard-boiled egg, the whole yolk standing on slices of the white cut lengthwise. No. 3. Ornament a thoroughly buttered tin basin or any mold with half rings of hard-boiled eggs as shown in illustration No. 5. The egg will stick to the butter and be held in place. Fill the mold with spinach, putting it in carefully with a spoon so as not to displace the ornamentation, and press it down firmly. After a few minutes turn it out of the mold and gar- nish it with croutons. Croutons are slices of bread browned (sauted) in butter. BEAN CROaUETTES Boil until tender a pint of dried beans which have been soaked overnight. Boil an onion in the water with the beans. Press the beans through a puree sieve. Season the puree with two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, two beaten eggs, a little pepper and salt, and a tablespoonful of parsley chopped very fine. If the mixture is still too dry add a little stock. Mold the puree into small croquettes. Cover the croquettes with egg and bread crumbs and fry them in smoking-hot fat. Serve with tomato sauce. MEATS 99 CHICKEN CASSEROLE OF CHICKEN, No. 1 Cut tender chicken into joints. Remove the skin, put a tablespoonful of butter into a casserole. Lay in the pieces of chicken loosely with bits of butter between them, add the sauted slices of one onion and a bouquet of herbs consisting of a small bunch of parsley, a bay-leaf, and a little thyme, wrap the parsley around the others and tie them together. Add also a few raw potato balls and, if convenient, a few fresh mushrooms. Sprinkle with salt. Lay two or three very thin slices of salt pork over the top. Cover the casserole and put it in the oven. At the end of half an hour turn the chicken carefully and return it to the oven to finish the cooking. CASSEROLE OF CHICKEN, No. 2 Cut a chicken into joints, remove the skin, sprinkle the pieces with pepper and salt, and roll them in flour. Saute the slices of one onion and a tablespoonful of butter; when they are tender remove and put them in the casserole, then put in the saute-pan the pieces of chicken with a little more butter and saute them to a golden brown on all sides. Place the chicken in the casserole. Add half a tablespoonful of flour to the saute-pan ; after it has cooked a minute stir in slowly one and a half cupfuls of water, or, preferably, stock, and stir until it is slightly thickened. Season with a salt- spoonful of pepper and a half teaspoonful of salt. Turn the sauce over the chicken, add a bay-leaf, a few potato balls, and, if convenient, a tablespoonful of sherry and a few mush- rooms. Cover the casserole, put it in the oven, and cook slowly until the chicken is tender. If the sauce becomes too 100 LUNCHEONS dry add enough water or stock to make it the consistency of cream. If it is too thin leave off the lid and continue cooking until it is reduced. There should not be a great quantity of sauce. PANNED CHICKEN Split a spring chicken down the back, double the flippers under the back, and cross the legs as shown in illustration No. 82. Put a little butter all over the chicken and dust it with pepper, salt, and flour. Place it in a baking-pan with a cup- ful of water and bake it for thirty minutes, basting it fre- quently. SMOTHERED CHICKEN Put a chicken prepared as above in a pan, cover it with a second pan, and set it in a hot oven for fifteen minutes, or until browned, then turn it over, add a cupful of water, cover it again with the pan, and cook until tender. CHICKEN FRIED IN CREAM Fry a few pieces of salt pork until crisp. Remove them from the pan and put in the chicken, which has been cut into pieces and the skin removed. Saute the chicken in the pork fat until it is cooked and browned, then turn over it a cupful of cream in which has been mixed half a teaspoonful of mustard and the chopped white and crumbed yolk of a hard- boiled egg. Stir them together for a minute and serve. CHICKEN JOINTS Take the drumsticks and second joints and the wings of cooked chicken or turkey. Remove the skin and trim them so NO. 81. BEAN CROQUETTES. NO. 82. CHICKEN FKEPABED TO BROIL. NO. 83. CHICKEN JOINTS GARNISHED WITH POTATO. NO. 8i. CHICKEN EN SURPRISE. MEATS 101 they are smooth and shapely. Rub them with salt and pep- per. Dip them in batter and fry them in smoking-hot fat to a light golden color. Arrange them on a platter with the points in, and ornament the tops with a line of mashed potato pressed through a pastry-bag and star-tube. Use a plain pancake batter, omitting the baking-powder; or use the batter given for f outage cups (page 30), but a little thicker. Have it of a consistency to coat the spoon evenly and let it be very smooth. CHICKEN EN SURPRISE Bone a chicken without removing the leg or wing bones. Spread the boned chicken on a board, lay a roll of force- meat on it, draw it together, giving it the shape of the chicken, and sew the skin together. Put the legs and wings into the positions of a trussed fowl, roll it in a piece of cheese- cloth, and secure the ends well. (See Boning and Braising, pages 181-182, "Century Cook Book.") Put it in a pot with enough water to cover it, add soup vegetables, herbs and spices, and let it simmer for four hours. Let the chicken cool before removing the cloth, then lard it, rub it over with a little melted butter, and dredge with salt, pepper, and flour. Place it in the oven to brown and to heat it if it is to be used hot. Baste with a little butter and water so it will not get too brown while it is heating through. Place paper frills on the leg bones, and garnish with fried potato balls and a few sprigs of parsley, as shown in the illustration. FORCEMEAT Chop very fine the meat of a fowl, or use veal or pork or a mixture of them both. Add to the meat a cupful of the 102 LUNCHEONS crumb of bread, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a tea- spoonful each of salt, thyme, and onion juice, and a quarter teaspoonful of pepper; a little ham or tongue, some dice of larding-pork and truffle improve the forcemeat, but are not essential when the chicken is to be served hot. Moisten the whole with stock and mix it well. SAUCES WHITE SAUCE Put a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan ; when it bub- bles add a tablespoonful of flour and cook them together for a few minutes, but do not let them brown. Remove from the fire and add a cupful of milk, very slowly so as to keep it smooth ; stir all the time. Add a half teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper. Return it to the fire and cook until it is thickened to a creamy consistency. The sauce is richer if half stock and half milk are used. It is also improved for some uses by adding the yolks of one or two eggs. If yolks are used they are stirred in after the sauce is taken from the fire, as it is still hot enough to cook the egg suffi- ciently. (See Sauces, "Century Cook Book," pages 275- 277.) BROWN SAUCE This is made in the same way and with the same propor- tions as the Avhite sauce, but the butter wnth a few drops of onion juice in it is browned before the flour is added. The flour is also allowed to brown. It is then diluted with stock instead of milk. MEATS 103 SUPREME SAUCE For Chicken Breasts, Sweetbreads, Croquettes, etc. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan; when it is hot add a tablespoonful of flour and let it cook a few min- utes without colorinfT, then add slowly a cupful of chicken or veal stock, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of paprika; stir until it thickens, then remove it from the fire, and after a few minutes add slowly a mixture of quarter of a cupful of cream and the yolks of three eggs. Return it to the fire for a minute to cook the eggs. Just before serving add a tablespoonful of lemon juice. TOMATO PUREE Put a canful of tomatoes in a saucepan with half an onion sliced, a bay-leaf, a sprig of parsley, three cloves, one half teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of pepper. Cook un- covered until reduced one half, then strain it through a puree sieve. Return it to the fire and add, a little at a time, a tablespoonful of butter. HOLLANDAISE SAUCE For Fish, Vegetables, and JSIeats Put in a saucepan the yolks of four eggs, one half cupful of butter, one half teaspoonful of salt, a dash of paprika, and one half cupful of cold water or stock. Mix them together. Place the saucepan in a pan of hot water and stir the mixture over the fire until it has thickened to the consistency of cream. When ready to serve remove it from the fire, and after it has cooled a little add very slowly the juice of half a lemon. 104 LUNCHEONS MAITRE D'HOTEL BUTTER Whip, with a fork, a quarter of a cupful of butter until it is very light, add a tablespoonful of parsley chopped very fine, one half teaspoonful each of salt and pepper, and lastly add slowly a tablespoonful of lemon juice. Smooth it over and set it in the ice-box to harden. Dip a teaspoon in hot water, wipe it quickly, and then draw it lightly over the hardened butter, taking up a thin layer which will curl over as the spoon is drawn along. Turn it off the spoon in egg- shaped pieces. Heat the spoon again and repeat the opera- tion, laying the pieces in a pile as they are made. Place them in the ice-box to harden. Serve with any broiled meats or fish. GLAZE Glaze is a clear soup stock boiled down to the consistency of thick cream. It is applied with a brush to the surface of meats to give them a smooth and shining surface. It is used also for adding richness to sauces. A very little glaze often improves a sauce and does not thin it as stock would do. The prepared extract of beef which comes in small jars can be used as a glaze. TO MAKE GLAZE Put in a soup pot bits of fat cut from meat and let them try out enough to moisten the bottom of the pot; or use a tablespoonful of butter for this purpose. Add four pounds of lean beef cut into pieces and let them brown, turning them a few times, then add a half cupful of hot water and let the whole cook until the juices are reduced to a glaze in the MEATS 105 bottom of the pot. This is to {^ivc color to the stock. Add six quarts of cold water and the knuckle of veal, and let the mixture simmer for six hours. If the water is allowed to boil the lime will b(! (;xtracted from the bone and the stock will be clouded. After three hours' simmering add the soup vege- tables, consisting of two stalks of c(;lery, one onion, a few sprigs of parsley, a piece of carrot, three cloves, a bay-leaf, a saltspoonful each of thyme and marjoram, fifteen pepper- corns, and a tablespoonful of salt. After six hours' simmer- ing strain the stock through a cloth laid on a colander, and let it cool. You have now a soup stock. The next day re- move the grease, turn the stock into a saucepan carefully so that no sediment goes in, and let it boil, uncovered, until reduced to a thin paste. The stock is now glaze. Be care- ful toward the end of the cooking that the stock does not burn. Turn the glaze into a small jar and put a little melted butter over the top to exclude the air. When ready to use it heat a little of the glaze to soften it and ap[)ly it with a brush, SWEET SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS HARD SAUCE Hard sauce is made of butter, sugar, and flavoring. Use twice the quantity of sugar that you have of butter. Beat them together for a long time;, or until they are vH ^fivini in I'Ml'lli Cdiirso FROZEN PUNCHES Any of the water-iees can be made into punches by adding to them when half frozen the whipped whites of two eggs which have had a tablespoonful of hot sugar syrup stirred into them to cook the eggs. The eggs must be cold when added to the ice, and the freezing continued until the ice is sufficiently stiff. At the moment of serving pour over each glassful a teasponful or a tablespoonful of liquor. The liquor may be rum or kirsch, or a liqueur. BRANDY PEACHES Serve brandied peaches in individual glasses before the game course. Keep the jar of peaches on ice for several hours before serving them, so they will get very cold. Serve one peach in a glass. CHEESE CROaUETTES Grate half a pound of American cheese. Mix in it a scant tablespoonful of butter, a tablespoonful of milk, an egg beaten enough to break it, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of paprika. Mix to a smooth paste and mold into small croquettes, using a tablespoonful of the paste for each cro- quette. The above proportions will make eight croquettes. Add a little milk to the yolk of an egg and roll the cro- quettes in this and then in cracker dust. Then fry them for a minute in smoking-hot fat. They should have a delicate brown color and be soft inside. Serve them as soon as they are fried or the cheese will harden. This is a delicious cheese dish and very easily made. 109 110 LUNCHEONS CHEESE PATTIES Cut slices of bread one inch thick. Stamp the slices into rounds with a biscuit-cutter. With a smaller stamp cut a round half through the center of each one of the large rounds and take out the bread, leaving a box of bread. Spread these with butter and put them in the oven to brown. Fill the centers with the same cheese mixture as given for cheese croquettes and place them in the oven just long enough to soften the cheese. Serve at once. GNOCCHI A L'lTALIENNE Put into a saucepan one cupful of milk, one cupful of water, one tablespoonful of butter, one half teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of paprika. When this boils add a cupful of hominy and stir until it is thickened a little, then set the saucepan into a second one containing hot water and con- tinue cooking until the hominy is soft. Add a little more hot water if the mixture gets dry before the hominy is cooked. Take it off the fire, add a tablespoonful of grated cheese, and spread the mixture in a smooth layer one half inch thick on a buttered tin. Set it aside to cool. When the layer of hominy has hardened cut it into rounds with a small biscuit-cutter. Place the rounds, overlapping, in a baking- dish which can be sent to the table. Moisten the tops with melted butter, sprinkle them with grated cheese, and set them in the oven to brown. GNOCGHI A LA KOMAIXE Put two tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan; when it is melted add four tablespoonfuls of flour, one half teaspoon- ful of salt, and a cupful of milk gradually. When it is well thickened add the beaten yolk of one egg and two table- KU. 85. CUEESli CliUQLETTES. NO. 80. CHEESE FAlXlEte. rr NO. 87. GSOCCHI A L'lTALIENNE. NO. 88. GNOCCHI A LA FKAN^AISE. PUNCHES — FEUIT — CHEESE — DISHES 111 spoonfuls of grated cheese. Pour the mixture into a baking- dish, making a layer half or three quarters of an inch thick. Let it get cold. Sprinkle the top with grated cheese and put it in the oven to brown. Serve it hot. GNOCCHI A lA FRANgAISE Add to a quart of boiling milk four tablespoonfuls of fa- rina and half a teaspoonful of salt. Cook it about thirty minutes, or until soft. Turn it on to a dish, making a layer about half an inch thick. When it is cold and hardened cut it into sharp, triangular pieces. Arrange the pieces on a flat, round dish in a double circle as in illustration. Add to two tablespoonfuls of the hot boiled farina, one tablespoonful of butter, two tablespoonfuls of grated cheese, and a dash of paprika or red pepper. Pile this mixture in the center of the dish, filling the vacant space in the middle of the pieces of farina, and sprinkle it with grated cheese, not letting any cheese get on the farina. Place the dish in the oven to brown and serve at once. This dish is made to resemble a sunflower. Chapter IX EIGHTH COURSE GAME -SALADS -COLD SERVICE-CHEESE Quail, Broiled Quail, Eoasted GAME Squabs SALADS Lettuce, Plain Lettuce Hearts Bouquet Salad, Lettuce and Nas- turtium or Watercress Bouquet Salad, Lettuce and Hard- boiled Egg Bouquet Salads, Illustrations Nos. 94, 95, 96, 97 Daisy Salad Salad of Asparagus Tips Salad of Artichoke Bottoms Salad of Vegetables Aspic of Vegetables Cucumber and Tomato Salad Tomato and Green Pepper Salad Turnip Cups with Celery Celery and Apple Salad Individual Apple Salad Cabbage Salad Mashed Potato Salad Shad Eoe Salad Chicken Salad Chestnut Salad Fruit Salad COLD SERVICE Chicken Aspic Aspic of Pate de Foie Gras Chicken Mousse Liver Loaf or Cold Timbale Cold Cut Meats Glazed Tongue Boiled Ham Boned Ham Cold Fish, Garnished Jellied Cutlets Fish in the Garden Cold Halibut For Buffet Lunclaeons or Fourth Course in Summer Sei-vice. CHEESE Cream Cheese with Bar-le-Duc Cur- Gorgonzola rants Eoquefort Camembert Etc. GAME aUAILS BROILEB Split the quails down the back, and broil them for four minutes on each side. Spread them with butter, pepper, and salt. Serve them on toast. QUAILS ROASTED Lay thin slices of salt pork over well-trussed birds. Bake them in a hot oven for fifteen to twenty minutes. Have in the baking-pan a little water, pepper, and salt, and baste the quails frequently. Serve on slices of toast moistened with drippings from the pan. SaUABS Cook the same as directed for quails. SALADS FRENCH DRESSING 3 tablespoonfuls of oil, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, ^ teaspoonful of salt, ^ teaspoonful of pepper. Mix the salt and pepper with the oil, then add slowly the vinegar, stirring all the time. It will become a little white and thickened. 115 116 LUNCHEONS MAYONNAISE DRESSING To the yolk of an egg add oil very slowly until the mix- ture becomes very thick, then add alternately vinegar and oil. Lastly add salt and pepper. The proportions are one cupful of oil to one yolk, one half teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper, and one and a half tablespoonfuls of vinegar or lemon juice. More or less oil may be used, but it must be added very slowly at first or the mixture will curdle. Have all the ingredients cold before beginning to mix the dressing. (See "Century Cook Book," page 288.) CREAM DRESSING Add whipped cream to mayonnaise or plain cream to French dressing at the moment of mixing them with the salad. The proportions need not be exact: a little more or less cream can be used as convenient. Note.— An onion rubbed on the dish in which lettuce is to be served improves the salad. PREPARING SALADS It is essential that leaf salads and celery be dry. Oil and water do not mix, and if the salad is wet the dressing will run off it and also lose its flavor. They should also be crisp and clean. Divest them of imperfect portions and wash to free them of dust and grit. Examine lettuce for a small green insect and celery for a small white worm which infest them, then place them in cold water to refresh and crisp them. Dry them carefully, shaking lettuce or watercress in a wire basket, or carefully dry each piece in a clean napkin. Celery may be drained or wiped. The salad may be dried some- time before using it, and if kept near the ice will retain its NO. 89, PLAIN LETTUCE SALAD. M). '.11). iii.\]:i 111- cAJtiiAtw, 1,1,11 i; M ITII .VIA VONNAlhli. NO. 101. CKLKKV ANO AI'I'LIC WITH CKKAM .MAYONNAISE. t^ J NO. 102. INI>IVII>UAI. Al'I'I.i: SAI.AI*. CKI.KKV AND AI'I'LK MIXED WITH < KEAM MAYONNAIhK, SKKVED IN AIM'I.ES. GAKNIHHED WITH A WHITE LETTtCE LEAK. GAME — SALADS — COLD SERVICE — CHEESE 121 the other side place sliced cucumbers moistened with French dressing. Separate the two with crisp leaves of lettuce. No. 17. Tomato and green pepper salad. Cut peeled toma- toes into slices three eighths of an inch thick. Cover them with a thick layer of chopped green peppers. Place them in the center of the dish with a border of crisp lettuce leaves. Moisten the whole with French dressing. No. 18. Turnip cups with celery. Select turnips of uniform size and not too large. Cut off the tops to give a flat surface for the bottom of the cups. Cut a slice about two inches thick from each turnip. With a fluted knife pare the outside into rounding shape, then with a potato-scoop take out the centers and form a cup. Leave the cups in water until ready to use; they will keep twenty-four hours or more in this way. Chop some parsley very fine and spread it on a board. Moisten the edges of the cups and press them on the parsley. This will give a green edge around the tops. Fill the cups with celery mayonnaise, or with any vegetable salad. No. 19. Celery and apple salad. Cut a bunch of crisp white celery into small bits, add a chopped green pepper and a teaspoonful of chopped pimento. Mix it with mayonnaise. Cut into dice one quarter as much apple as you have of celery. Just before serving mix it with the celery, and the whole with whipped cream. Pile the salad in a mound on a flat dish and gar- 122 LUNCHEONS nish it with lettuce or other leaves and radishes. For one bunch of celery there will be needed two apples and a half pint of cream. The celery is quickly prepared by cutting the stalks into strips one quarter of an inch thick, then laying them together in a pile and cutting them all together into lengths of one quarter of an inch or less. Tart apples of good flavor should be used. Eemove the seeds and ribs of the green pepper and cut it into fine bits. Pimentos are Spanish red pep- pers and are very mild. They come in cans and can be bought at the grocer's. No. 20. Individual apple salad. Select apples that are best both in color and flavor. Take out the core care- fully, using a pointed knife, and make the hollow on the stem end. An apple-corer can be used, in which case the end piece should be put back again to plug the bottom. The wall of the apple should be half an inch thick. Fill the hollowed out apple with creamed celery and apple mixture, as given on page 121, omitting the green pepper and pimento. Serve on individual plates with one white lettuce leaf at the side of each apple. No. 21. Cabbage salad. Add to a cupful of cream the beaten yolks of two eggs, one teaspoonful of mustard, one half teaspoonful each of salt, pepper, and sugar, and half a tablespoonful of celery seeds. Put all this in a double boiler and stir until it thickens. Let it cool. When ready to serve add to the dressing a table- spoonful of vinegar and mix it with cabbage chopped fine. Serve in cabbage leaves as shown NO. 103. CABBAGE SALAD. SERVED IN CABBAGE LEAVES. NO. 104. MASHED POTATO SALAD. NO. 105. SHAD KOE SALAU. NO. 106. CHICKEN SALAD. GAME — SALADS — COLD SERVICE— CHEESE 123 in illustration. Cold slaw may be served in the same way. No. 22. Mashed potato salad. To a quart or a little more of mashed potatoes add three tablespoonfuls of oil, a teaspoonful each of onion juice and salt, a dash of nutmeg, one half teaspoonful of pepper, a table- spoonful of pickled beets chopped fine, a tablespoon- ful of cucumber pickle chopped fine, and a table- spoonful of vinegar taken from the pickled-beet jar. Beat all together until the potato is light. The beet vinegar will color it pink. If a deeper color is wanted add a little more of the red vinegar. The potato should be a moist puree. If the salad is too dry after the ingredients are in add a little soup stock or water. Shape into a mound without pressing it, and garnish it with slices of beets, pickles, and lettuce. No. 23. Shad roe salad. Wash the roe carefully and place it in salted water. The water must not boil or it will break the skin. Simmer it for twenty minutes. Af- ter cooling cut it with a sharp knife into slices quar- ter of an inch thick. Place the slices, overlapping, on a dish. Garnish with lettuce leaves. Pour over the roe a plentiful amount of French dressing. No. 24. Chicken salad. Cut cold chicken into half-inch dice, using both white and dark meat. Moisten it with French dressing. Cut tender celery into small dice and mix it with the chicken, using two thirds as much celery as there is of chicken. Mix the whole with mayonnaise. Form it into a mound. Cover it with mayonnaise. Decorate the mound as follows: 124 LUNCHEONS Begin at the top and form four lines of chopped pickled beet, dividing the form into four sections. Follow the lines of beet with lines of chopped white of hard-boiled eggs. This will leave triangular spaces. ]\Iake another line of beets and fill the spaces left with the crumbed yolks of hard-boiled eggs. Outline the small triangular spaces with ca- pers and finish the top with an olive and sprigs of parsley. Place lettuce leaves and slices of hard- boiled egg around the dish. Veal instead of chicken may be used in the same way. Lobster salad should be mixed with lettuce instead of celery. No. 25. Chestnut salad. Mix together two cupfuls each of tart apples cut into half-inch dice, celery cut into small pieces, and boiled chestnuts cut into half-inch pieces. Put in a double boiler : 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, 9 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, ■J teaspoonful of sugar, 1^ teaspoonfuls of mustard, 1 teaspoonful of salt, ^ teaspoonful of pepper, yolks of four eggs. Beat all this well together and stir until thick- ened. After it has cooled and just before serving add the dressing and a cupful of whipped cream to the salad mixture. No. 26. Fruit salads. Fruits are sometimes mixed with may- onnaise and used as a salad. The following mixtures may be used: Pineapple, oranges, and apples. Grape-fruit, oranges, and canned pears. Pineapple and banana. Apple and grape-fruit. Garnish with lettuce leaves. GAME — SALADS — COLD SERVICE— CHEESE 125 COLD SERVICE CHICKEN ASPIC Make a chicken stock as for chicken consomme, page 46. Use a knuckle of veal and as many quarts of water as you have pounds of meat. Remove the breast of the fowl when it is tender. Clarify the stock, and if it has not made a jelly firm enough to stand add a little gelatine,— a tablespoonful of granulated gelatine to a quart of stock will perhaps be more than enough, for the jelly must not be too hard, and the jellied stock may need but very little extra stiffness to make it hold its shape when molded. Ornament the bottom of a ring-mold with slices of the white of hard-boiled egg cut into diamond-shaped pieces. Lay the pieces, with thin strips of egg between them, in a manner to imitate a wreath of leaves. A long pin will be useful in arranging the pieces of egg. Put the mold in a bowl of cracked ice, and with a spoon add a very little liquid jelly, taking care not to use enough to float the pieces of egg. When it has set sufficiently to hold the decoration in place add enough more jelly to make a layer a quarter of an inch thicK. When the layer has stiffened, put in a layer of chicken breast cut into inch lengths, so the jelly will not be torn apart when being served, but place the pieces close to- gether so they appear like large pieces. Add more jelly, let- ling it rise a quarter of an inch above the chicken ; when that has stiffened, add another layer of chicken and fill the mold with jelly. Let the mold be level and have a smooth layer of gelatine on top, so when unmolded it will stand firm and even. Fill the center of the ring with celery mayonnaise, or a macedoine vegetable salad. 120 LUNCHEONS ASPIC OF pat:^ de foie gras Make a chicken aspic as directed above. When a mold is used which lias projections on top, as in illustration, the jelly must he. miu\v. a little firmer than for a plain mold. Pour inio the mold a layer of jelly, let it stiffen, and then add a Inyer of pate de foie gras and a little jelly to set it. Then fill the mold with jelly. Care must be taken in unmolding this form, for if held a moment too long in hot water the points will fall off or lose shape. CHICKEN MOUSSE T*ut through a chopper cooked chicken, using the white or the dark meat, or both. Drind it a second time, if neces- sary, to make it very line. If a meat-chopper is not at hand, chop it by hand, pound it to free the meat from the fiber, nnd rub it through a puree sieve. Heat a cupful of chicken stock, pour it over the beaten yolks of three eggs, add a teaspoonful each of salt and celery salt, a dash of pepper aiid of papi-ika. ]v(»turn it to the fire and stir until it has thickened like a boiled custard; add two tablespoonfuls of granulated gelatine which has soaked for an hour in a (pinrter cupful of cold chiekiMi stock. When the gelatine has dissolved, remove it from the fire and add one and one half cupfuls of the fine chicken meat. When the mixture begins to thicken stir it perfectly smooth and fold in a half pint of cream whipped to a still' froth. Turn it into a brick mold. The cream must not be added until the mixture begins to set, or the ingredients will settle into layers. Serve with lettuce or celery salad. NO. 107. I IIICKI-N AHI'IC, NO. lOH. AHi'ic oi' rAii; j>i; con, (;hah. NO. KM). hr.Il'KK <:>>U> MKA'I'H. GAME — SALADS — COLD SEE VICE — CHEESE 127 LIVER LOAF OR COLD TIMBALE Line a pint brick mold with thin slices of lardinp; pork. Pour in liver timbale mixture given on page 78. Fill the mold to within a quarter of an inch of the top. Cover it with slices of pork. Set it in a pan of water and cook in a slow oven for one hour, or until firm to the touch. Serve cold in slices with salad. COLD SLICED MEATS Illustration No. 109 shows an attractive way of serving cold meats. On the right are overlapping slices of cold tongue; on the left, slices of beef. A slice of tongue cut round is placed in the center to cover the spot where they meet. Slices of cold chicken are placed at right angles to the tongue and beef. Aspic jelly is placed in the four angles. The garnishing is sliced pickled beets cut into stars and hearts, and small pickles or gherkins sliced down to nearly the end, then spread into leaf shapes. The stars are placed on the sliced meat, the hearts on the dish in front of the jelly, with a slice of pickle on each side, and the leaf-like gherkins are in the center. The aspic used in this dish was jellied stock made a little stiffer with gelatine. Cold meats may also be attractively served by placing a socle made of hominy in the center of the dish, the top of the hominy ornamented with aspic or any garnishes, and the sliced meats laid around and against the socle. GLAZED TONGUE Boil a smoked or a fresh tongue until tender, then skin and trim it. While it is flexible skewer it into a good shape. Paint it with glaze (page 104) . Whip some butter with a fork until it is soft and very 128 LUNCHEONS light, Placo tho whipped butter in a pastry-bag with star tube and press it through, outlining a figure on the sides of the tongue and down the middle. Garnish the dish with parsley and a hard-boiled egg. Cut the white of the egg in strips lengthwise, leave the yolk whole, and arrange the pieces so they resemble a daisy. Keep the garnished tongue in a cold place until ready to serve, in order to harden the butter. BOILED HAM Soak the ham overnight, with the rind side up. Thor- oughly wash and scrape off any bad parts. Put it in suffi- cient cold water to cover it w(;ll. Add a bunch of soup vege- tables and two bay-leaves. Boil it slowly, allowing twenty minutes to the pound, counting from the time the water begins to boil. It is done when the meat around the bone is tender. Place it on a board, peel off the skin, and by trim- ming make it smooth and shapely. Take a slice off the bot- tom, if necessary, to make it stand firmly. Serve it hot or cold. In illustration No. Ill the ham after being trimmed is covered with cracker dust and sugar and placed in the oven to brown. The bone is covered with a pleated paper frill, and a lemon cut to imitate a pig (see page 16) is set on top. In illustration No. 112 black pepper is placed in spots on the fat, and then with the finger is rubbed into regular circles. A whole clove is stuck in the center of each spot of pepper. If the ham is to be served cold the parts not covered by fat can be concealed with a layer of butter; the butter should be whipped until smooth and soft and then spread evenly with a knife. In this way the whole ham can be made smooth and the spots of pepper can be extended entirely over it. aft^< H llf WJ II ■■IWIIIIi yi H M NO. no. f;r.\zi;i. roscri:, <; armsuki) with NO. 111. HOII.EI) JIAM, NO. 1. NO. 112. UOILKl) HAM, NO. 2. NO. 113. GLAZED BONED HAM GARNISHED WITH WATERCRESS. NO. lU. COLD FISH COVERED WITH JELLIED MAYONNAISE AND GARNISHED WITH BEETS AND OLIVES. NO. 115. CREAM CHEESE WITH BAR-LE-DUC CURRANTS. GAME — SALADS— COLD SERVICE — CHEESE 129 The bone is covered with a paper frill (page 14) . The dish is garnished with slices of pickled beets stamped into rounds. BONED HAM Boil the ham as directed above. While it is still hot strip off the skin, then turn it over and remove the bone. If the ham is thoroughly cooked, the bone will come out easily. Make a cut down to and along the bone in the center of the under side, then work the knife around and close to the bone until the latter is loosened enough to be pulled out. Lay the boned ham on a cloth, draw it together and sew the cloth around it, pressing the ham firmly together, and giving it a good shape. Place a board and heavy weights on the ham, and let it cool while under this pressure. Remove the cloth. Trim it again, if necessary. Cover it with a meat glaze (see page 104). Garnish with a wreath of watercress. COLD FISH Garnished cold fish makes an ornamental and useful dish for buffet luncheons, and for summer service, when cold dishes of any kind are acceptable. Illustration No. 114 shows a bluefish boiled in upright position, covered with jellied mayonnaise and garnished with pickled beets, cran- berries, and gherkins. It is placed on a layer of bread to raise it on the dish. To prepare the dish, place a carrot inside the fish to give it stability, then tie and prop it with vegetables on the kettle-strainer, in the position desired. Boil it slowly, allowing ten minutes to the pound. Put soup vegetables, a bay-leaf, and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar in the water. When cooked, lift the fish out carefully and let it get cold before removing it from the strainer. Take off the skin and cover it vntla. a mayonnaise made as 130 LUNCHEONS follows : Heat a cupful of clear beef or chicken stock, and dissolve in it one and a half tablespoonfuls of granulated gelatine which has soaked for an hour in half a cupful of cold water. When it has cooled add half a cupful of oil, a tablespoonful of vinegar or of lemon juice, half a teaspoon- ful of salt, a dash of pepper, and the beaten yolk of an egg. When it begins to set spread it over the fish with a knife. It will give a smooth, polished yellow covering. Garnish with slices of pickled beets stamped into various shapes. Bass, salmon, bluefish, and halibut are good varieties to serve cold. They may be masked with the aspic mayonnaise given above, or with a plain, thick mayonnaise, or with tar- tare sauce, or with maitre d 'hotel butter. The covering should be spread with a knife to make it smooth, and the fish kept in a cool place until the time of serving. Hard- boiled eggs, capers, pickles, lettuce, watercress, and pars- ley are suitable garnishes. JELLIED CUTLETS Cut cold boiled sheepshead or other fish into flat, even pieces, each piece a size suitable for one portion. Lay them in a pan, leaving spaces between them. Place on each piece a thin slice of hard-boiled egg, then pour over them just enough aspic jelly to cover them. The aspic should have a little lemon juice or vinegar mixed with it to make it tart. When the jelly is set, cut the pieces apart with a sharp knife and arrange them on a dish with creamed horseradish sauce. FISH IN THE GARDEN Skin a cold boiled trout, bass, or other fish. Cover it with mayonnaise, or with maitre d 'hotel butter. Garnish it with aspic jelly and surround it with vegetables molded in jelly as in illustration No. 6. Use peas, beans, celery, etc. GAME — SALADS — COLD SERVICE — CHEESE 131 COLD HALIBUT Cover a thick piece of boiled halibut with mayonnaise. Sprinkle the top with chopped capers. Garnish it with po- tato salad, the potatoes being cut into balls. CHEESE CREAM CHEESE WITH BAR-LE-DUC CURRANTS Beat with a fork a square of Philadelphia cream cheese, or of domestic Neufchatel, until it is light and smooth. Whip three tablespoonfuls of cream to a stiff froth. Mix the cheese and whipped cream together lightly and pile the mixture on a dish in which it is to be served. Put it in a cool place. Just before serving pour over it a glassful of Bar-le- Duc red currants. Chapter X NINTH COURSE HOT DESSERTS-COLD DESSERTS-PIES-TAKTS HOT DESSERTS Farina Croquettes Pudding, Huckleberry- Pudding, Chocolate Bread Pudding, Cocoanut Bread Pudding, Fig Pudding, Green-Gage Pudding, Tapioca, with Prunes Bananas, Sauted COLD Apples Kichelieu Apples, Stewed, No. 1 Apples, Stewed, No. 2 Apples, Baked Figs, Comjjote of Apricots, Compote of Pears, Compote of Bananas and Cream Strawberries and Cream Peaches and Cream Bread and Jam Tartlets Pine Cones Pudding, Cornstarch, No. 1 Pudding, Cornstarch, No. 2 Pudding, Cornstarch, No. 3 Pudding, Cornstarch, No. 4 Pudding, Peach Pudding, Tapioca Pudding, Eice Prune Pudding, Jellied Apple Bananas, Baked, No. 1 Bananas, Baked, No. 2 Quinces, Baked Strawberry Souffle Fruit and other Souffles Burning Peaches Burning Cherries DESSERTS Pudding, Pineapple Savarins Babas Coffee Mousse Peach Mousse Chestnut Puree Chestnut Bavarian Charlotte Eusse Charlotte Eusse, Strawberry, No. 1 Charlotte Eusse, Strawberry, No. 2 Meringue Eing Meringue Crown Meringue Cream Tart, No. 1 Meringue Cream Tart, No. 2 Meringues filled with Whipped Cream or lee Cream Chocolate Cream Chocolate Sponge Sliced Bavarian Cream Garnished with Cream Cakes PIES- TARTS Jam Tart of Puff Paste Strawberry Tartlets Frangipane Tartlets Frangipane Cream Fruit Tartlets Jalousies Pie, Cranberry Pie, Cocoanut Pie, Currant Pie, Lemon, No. 1 Pie, Lemon, No. 2 Strawberry Cake, No. Strawberry Cake, No. Currant Shortcake HOT DESSERTS FARINA CROaUETTES Put two cupfuls of milk and half a teaspoonful of salt into a double boiler. When the milk is hot add half a cupful of farina, and moisten with a little milk to make it smooth. Cook about twenty minutes, or until it is well thickened, then add the yolk of an egg. When it is cold mold it into small croquettes. Roll the croquettes in egg and white bread crumbs, or cracker dust, and fry in smoking-hot fat to a bright yellow color. Serve with maple sugar scraped from the cake. HUCKLEBERRY PUDDING 2 cupfuls of flour, 1 cupful of granulated sugar, 2 cupfuls of berries, 1 heaping teaspoonful of baking powder, ^ saltspoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful of butter, Milk. Mix well the sugar, salt, and baking powder with the flour, then rub in a teaspoonful of butter, and stir in quickly enough milk to make a batter which will drop from the spoon. Add the berries well floured, and turn the mixture into a greased quart pudding-mold. Steam or boil it for half an hour. 135 136 LUNCHEONS It should be mixed quickly and the water should not be allowed to fall below the boiling-point while the pudding is cooking. Serve with any pudding sauce. CHOCOLATE BREAD PUDDING 1 cupful of stale crumb of bread, 2 cupfuls of milk, ^ cupful of sugar, 3 scjuares of unsweetened chocolate, ^ teaspoon ful of vanilla, 1 egg. Scald the milk and turn it over the bread, broken into small pieces. Let it soak until the bread is soft, then beat it with a fork to a smooth pulp and add the chocolate, melted, the sugar, vanilla, and yolk of the egg, also a dash of salt. Lastly fold in the white of the egg whipped to a stiff froth. Bake in a moderate oven for thirty minutes. COCOANUT BREAD PUDDING Pour a cupful of scalded milk over a cupful of broken bits of crumb of bread. Let the bread soak until softened, then beat it to smoothness. Add a cupful of grated cocoanut, half a cupful of sugar, a teaspoonful of lemon juice, and the yolks of two eggs. Mix Avell, and then add the whites of the eggs whipped to a stiff froth. Bake in a moderate oven for thirty minutes. Serve hot or cold. FIG PUDDING Weigh three eggs; take the same weight of butter, sugar, figs, and of crumb of bread. Chop the figs, put a little hot water on them, and cook them to a pulp. Grate the bread to very fine crumbs. Mix together the butter and sugar. ■ HOT DESSERTS — COLD DESSERTS — PIES — TARTS 137 add the yolks of the eggs, then the figs and the crumbs, and lastly the whites of the eggs whipped to a stiff froth. Turn the mixture into a covered quart mold, and steam for two and a half hours ; or put it into individual timbale molds, set them into a pan of water, cover them with a greased paper, and cook in an oven for thirty minutes, or until firm to the touch. At the moment of serving pour over them a little rum or brandy and light it with a taper. Serve with wine sauce, or with any other pudding sauce. GREEN-GAGE PUDDING Butter well a quart granite-ware basin. Arrange on the bottom a layer of green-gage plums (California canned plums), then fill the dish heaping full of the crumb of stale bread cut into dice. Beat two eggs enough to break them, and mix them with two cupfuls of milk. Pour the egg and milk mixture slowly over the bread with a spoon, so the bread will soak up the liquid. Set the pudding-dish in a pan of water and bake in a moderate oven for thirty minutes. Let it stand a few minutes, then invert it on a dish and do not lift it off the tin for a few minutes longer. Serve with a sauce made of a cupful of juice from the can, with a heaping tablespoonful of sugar added to it and then boiled until clear. TAPIOCA PUDDING WITH PRUNES Soak three tablespoonfuls of tapioca in cold water for two hours. Use two and a half cupfuls of water. Stew dried prunes until they begin to swell. Add to the soaked tapioca (there should be four heaping tablespoonfuls of it) three tablespoonfuls of sugar, one teaspoonful of butter, and two cupfuls of milk or water. Spread a layer of prunes over the bottom of a quart pudding-dish, then fill the dish with 138 LUNCHEONS the tapioca mixture and bake it twenty-five to thirty-five minutes in a slow oven. SAUTED BANANAS Select bananas that are not quite ripe. Peel and cut them in two lengthwise. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a saute- pan ; when it bubbles add a tablespoonful of sugar and lay in the bananas. When the bananas are tender take them out carefully and lay them in an even row on a hot dish. Add half a cupful of cream to the pan and mix it well with the butter and sugar. The sugar should be cooked enough to give a caramel flavor. Add two or three table- spoonfuls of sherry, or just enough to take away the very sweet taste. Pour this sauce over the bananas. BAKED BANANAS, No. 1 Select bananas that are not quite ripe, detach the skins. Bake the bananas in the skins for twenty to thirty minutes, or until tender but not soft. Turn them out of the skins, lay them in an even row on a hot dish, and pour over them some melted currant jelly. BAKED BANANAS, No. 2 Mix two tablespoonfuls of butter with three tablespoonfuls of sugar and two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, and place it on the fire to melt the butter. Peel bananas and lay them uncut in a baking-pan; pour over them the buttered mixture and bake them until tender, basting them fre- quently. Place them in an even row on a flat dish and pour over them the liquor from the pan. BAKED aUINCES Peel and core the quinces, then cut them in halves and bake them in a pan with a very little water until tender. NO. 116. GREEN-GAGE PUDDING. NO. 117. BAKED QUINCES. NO. 118. STEWED APPLES, NO. 1, WITH JAM AND ALMONDS. HOT DESSERTS — COLD DESSERTS — PIES — TARTS 139 When they are cooked, spread the tops with butter and a plentiful amount of sugar. Serve hot. Pass butter and sugar. SOUFFLES Souffles are one of the most elegant dessert dishes. They are esteemed for their delicacy rather than their richness, and the difficulty in making them gives them distinction, as they are usually presented only from the hand of an ex- pert cook. There is no reason, however, that any one should not succeed in making a perfect souffle, though it is one of the popular delusions that they are very difficult to make. With intelligent care about the heat of the oven, a souffle can be made with less trouble than is given to many other simple desserts. The whites of eggs must be beaten until filled with air. They are then placed in a moderate oven, where the heated air expands and puffs up the whole mass. The bak- ing is continued until the air-cells are enough hardened to support the weight, and the dish must be served at once and before the imprisoned air cools and the mass collapses. STRAWBERRY SOUFFLE Beat to a stiff, dry froth the whites of as many eggs as needed, allowing one white for each person and one for the dish, then fold in lightly enough strawberry jam to sweeten it; or use strawberry pulp and sugar. Turn it into a pud- ding-dish and bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. Serve at once. The souffle must go directly from the oven to the table. FRUIT AND OTHER SOUFFLES To the whipped whites of eggs may He added half the number of yolks and powdered sugar enough to sweeten, or chocolate, or any jam, or softened jelly, or fruit juice, or 140 LUNCHEONS the pulp of any fruit with the juice drained off. Fruit must be pressed through a puree sieve to make the pulp fine and soft. BURNING PEACHES Place California canned whole peaches and the juice in a deep dish. Just before serving pour over them some brandy or rum and light it with a taper. BURNING CHERRIES Serve California white cherries in the same way as directed above for peaches. COLD DESSERTS APPLES RICHELIEU Take out the cores of well-flavored apples and cut them crosswise into halves. Simmer them in sugar and water until tender. Let them cool. Lay several pieces of sliced blanched almonds straight, at regular intervals, upon the flat sides of the apples. Sprinkle them with powdered sugar and set them in the oven a minute to brown the sugar. Place candied cherries cut in halves upon the apples between the almonds. Just before serving put spoonfuls of whipped cream at in- tervals on a flat dish and place the cold apples upon the cream; or press the cream through a pastry-bag in circles around the apples. STEWED APPLES, No. 1 Select apples of uniform size and shape. Remove the cores and peel them carefully. Put them into hot water with sugar HOT DESSERTS — COLD DESSERTS — PIES — TARTS 141 and lemon juice. Cook them slowly until tender, but not so long that they lose shape. When they are cold fill the centers with sweetened and flavored boiled rice and cover them with apricot or any jam. Sprinkle them with blanched almonds cut in strips. STEWED APPLES, No. 2 Prepare the apples as for No. 1. Fill the centers with well-flavored apple puree, or with apple jelly mixed with chopped raisins. Sprinkle them with granulated sugar and stick into them blanched almonds cut into strips and slightly browned. Serve with cream, if convenient. Apple puree and apple jelly can be made from the parings and cores of the apples. Put these trimmings in a saucepan with a little water and cook them to a pulp. Press the pulp through a sieve for the puree, or strain it through a cloth for the juice. Return the juice to the fire, let it boil a min- ute, then add half a pound of hot sugar to a cupful of juice. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, and boil until a few drops put on a cold plate jelly. Turn it into glasses to set. BAKED APPLES Peel and core good-flavored, tart apples. Put a small piece of butter in each one and sprinkle them with sugar so they will brown well. Put them in a pan with a little water and bake until tender, then remove and put on each one two drops of almond extract'. Add a little sugar to the water in the pan and cook it down to a thick syrup, then strain it slowly over the apples to glaze them ; or stick three cloves into each apple before baking them, and omit the almond extract; or fill the centers with the sugar, lemon peel, and stick cinnamon before baking, or with blanched almonds and raisins after baking. 142 LUNCHEONS COMPOTE OF FIGS Put a pound of pulled figs in a bowl and cover them with water. Let them soak for several hours, or until they are softened and expanded, then press each one into natural shape and pile them on a dish. Take the water in which they were soaked, add enough sugar to sweeten it, and a thick slice of lemon. Boil it until it is a good syrup, then pour it over the figs. Ijet the figs cool before serving. Or to each cupful of fig water add a cupful of sugar and boil it to the crack, then pour it slowly over the figs. This will give them a coating of sugar. Serve with whipped cream flavored with kirsch. The figs, being very sweet, are improved by using a flavor- ing which is sharp like lemon or kirsch. If lemon is used, pour the juice over the figs, as it will curdle the cream if mixed with it. COMPOTE OF APRICOTS Prepare dried apricots the same as directed for compote of pears. Place half a blanched almond in the center of each piece to imitate a pit. COMPOTE OF PEARS Soak dried California pears in water overnight, or for several hours until they swell to natural shape. Arrange them symmetrically on a dish, or around a form of rice, as in illustration. To the water in which the pears were soaked add enough sugar to make it sweet, and boil it down to a syrup, then add a teaspoonful of lemon juice. Pour the hot syrup over the fruit. Serve cold. NO. 119. COMPOTE OF FIGS. NO. 120. COMPOTE OF APRICOTS. NO. 121. COMPOTE OF PEARS. NO. 1'2'2. lt\N\N\s VMi CUICAM. NO. 123. UKKAl) AND JAM TAUTLET8. HOT DESSEKTS — COLD DESSERTS — PIES — TARTS 143 BANANAS ANB CREAM Cut bananas into slices one quarter of an inch thick. Ar- range them in a pile in the center of the dish and place around them spoonfuls of whipped cream. The cream may be flavored with sherry or vanilla, but use no sugar, as the fruit is sweet enough without it. STRAWBERRIES AND CREAM Mix enough sugar with cream to sweeten it thoroughly, and then whip it until it is stiff and dry. A half pint of cream is enough for a quart of berries. "When ready to serve, mix the berries in the cream and serve them piled on a flat dish. PEACHES AND CREAM Cut peeled peaches into slices and put them in the ice- box. Add as much sugar to a half pint of cream as will be needed to sweeten the peaches. Whip the cream to a stiff froth. At the moment of serving, mix together lightly the peaches and cream ; or an hour or more before serving, mix the cream and fruit, put it in a covered mold, and pack in ice and salt. Use but little salt, for the object is to make the peaches very cold, but not to freeze them. BREAD AND JAM TARTLETS Cut very light bread into slices one quarter of an inch thick. Stamp these pieces into rounds with a biscuit-cutter. Put them in a saute-pan with a little butter, and brown them on both sides. When they are cool, spread them with any kind of jam or preserved fruit, and just before serving ornament them with thick cream pressed through a pastry- bag and star tube. 144 LUNCHEONS FINE CONES Cut quarter-inch slices of bread into rounds and moisten them with sherry or maraschino. Pile chopped pineapple in cone shape on each round of bread. Canned, fresh, or stewed pineapple may be used. Dilute the juice strained from the fruit with a little water, and sweeten it to taste. Add a teaspoonful of arrowroot moistened with cold water to a cupful of pineapple liquor. Boil it until thickened, then with a spoon pour it slowly over the cones. Serve hot or cold. CORNSTARCH PUDDINGS Dissolve two heaping tablespoonfuls of cornstarch in a little cold water or milk and turn it slowly, stirring all the time, into a pint of scalding milk in a double boiler ; add three tablespoonfuls of sugar and a dash of salt. Stir until it is thickened, then let it cook for half an hour, or until it has lost the raw taste of the starch, then add the whipped whites of two eggs and a half teaspoonful of vanilla, and cook it a few minutes longer to set the eggs. No. 1. The cornstarch is molded in cups; when unmolded a piece is taken out of the top of each one, and the holes are filled with currant jelly, and jelly is placed on the dish around the individual puddings. This gives a good sauce as well as a nice effect of color. Any jelly, jam, or preserved fruits may be used in place of the currant jelly. No. 2. Lay a line of seeded raisins on the bottom of a ring- mold before turning in the cornstarch; or mix with the cornstarch some chopped citron, currants, and raisins. Fill the center of the ring with whipped cream, or with plain boiled custard. NO. 124. PINE CONES. NO. 125. INDIVIDUAL CORNSTARCH PUDDINGS WITH CURRANT JELLY. NO. 126. CORNSTARCH PUDDING IN RING MOLK, ORNAMENTED WITH RAISINS. GARNISHED WITH WHIPPED CREAM. N<». I'M. COUNM'IAICI II lll|)l)IN(J OltNAMINTIII Wl'lll CANDIED Id II lll|)l)ns(J oltNAMINTI II \vn CIIICKKIIOH 'm> ANIiI'M.ICA. NO. I'JH. CIKX'OI.Ari'; COUNhTAItCIl rilliDINd HOT DESSERTS — COLD DESSERTS — PIES — TARTS 145 No. 3. Mold the cornstarch in a bowl. Decorate it with candied cherries and angelica. Serve with it cream, sweetened milk, custard, or preserved fruit. No. 4. Add to tlu; cornstarch two sfjuares of melted choco- late and a tablespoonful of sugar. Decorate the mold with split blanched almonds. Dij) the almonds in a little half-set gelatine to make them adhere to the mold. Put the mold into hot water for a second to soften the gelatine before unmolding the pudding. Serve with whipped cream or sweet(;ned milk. PEACH PUDDING Cover the bottom of a pudding-dish with canned peaches. Take half the juice from the can, add to it two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and boil it to a thick syrup. Make a custard, using two cupf uls of milk, the yolks of two eggs, and a heaping tablespoonful of cornstarch. Cook in a double boiler for half an hour, or until it is quite thick and the raw taste of the cornstarch is gone, then add a little of the peach syrup to sweeten it, and a few drops of almond extract. Sprinkle the peaches with blanched almonds cut in pieces, pour over them the syrup, then the custard. Cover the top with meringue made of the whites of two eggs and three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. Brown the me- ringue. Serve the pudding hot or cold. TAPIOCA PUDDING 1 quart of milk, ^ cupful of tapioca, 4-5 eggs, I pint of cream, 4-5 tablespoonfuls of sugar, i cupful of sherry. 10 146 LUNCHEONS Soak the tapioca in cold water for several hours or over- night. Boil the soaked tapioca in the milk until it is soft, then add the beaten yolks of the eggs, the sugar, cream, and wine, and lastly the whipped whites of the eggs. Turn the mixture into a pudding-dish. Set the dish in a pan of water and bake twenty to twenty-five minutes. Serve cold. RICE PRUNE PUDDING Spread stewed prunes over the bottom of a basin or mold, then fill the mold with boiled rice. Press the rice in just hard enough to make it hold its shape. Turn it out of the mold and serve it hot or cold, with the sweetened juice of the prunes as sauce ; or press the rice into a bowl or mold, and arrange the prunes around the form after it is unmolded, as in illustration No. 129 ; or arrange it as in illustration No. 130. JELLIED APPLE PUDDING Add to one and a half cupfuls of strained stewed apples the juice of an orange, the grated rind and juice of half a lemon, three tablespoonfuls of sherry, three quarters of a cupful of sugar, and two tablespoonfuls of granulated gela- tine which has been soaked for an hour in half a cupful of cold water and then dissolved in half a cupful of hot water. Stir the mixture until it begins to thicken, then fold in the whites of three eggs whipped to a stiff froth, or a half- pint of whipped cream. Turn it into a mold. Serve it with whipped cream. PINEAPPLE PUDDING Grate a pineapple fine. Mix well together a cupful of sugar and four eggs, then mix them with the pineapple pulp. Turn the mixture into a mold, set the mold into a pan of water and bake it slowly until stiffened like a baked cus- NO. 129. RICE PRUNE PUDDING. NO. 130. RICE PRUNE PUDDING. NO. 131. SAVARINS. NO. 132. BABAS. HOT DESSERTS — COLD DESSERTS — PIES — TARTS 147 tard. When cold unmold it and decorate it with whipped cream. SAVARINS Take some brioche dough (page 209) and add enough milk to make it almost soft enough to drop from the spoon. Add sugar, raisins, chopped citron, and a little lemon juice. Work all well together. Butter some earthen cups, sprinkle them with sliced blanched almonds, half fill the cups with the savarin dough, and let it rise to double in size. Bake in a hot oven. Turn them out of the molds, and while they are warm dip them in a syrup made of one cupful of sugar syrup, three tablespoonfuls each of kirsch, maraschino, and curacao, or flavor with any other liqueurs preferred. When the sa- varins are well soaked place them on a sieve to drain. SABAS Take brioche dough prepared as for savarins, and mix with it candied fruits cut into small dice. Butter baba- molds, fill them half full of the mixture, let them rise to double in size, and bake in a hot oven. Soak the babas in sugar syrup flavored with rum and drain. Place a candied cherry on each one. Baba-molds are like large individual timbale cups. COFFEE MOUSSE ■| ounce gelatine, I cupful of cold water, "I cupful of hot water, 1 cupful of coffee, ^ cupful of sugar, 1 cupful of cream, whipped. 148 LUNCHEONS Soak the gelatine in the cold water for an hour, then dis- solve it in the hot water and add the sugar. When the sugar is dissolved add a cupful of cold, strong, clear coffee. Put the mixture on ice and whip it until it becomes light and frothy and has begun to stiffen, then add the whipped cream and turn it into a mold. The gelatine must be thoroughly whipped, as for snow pudding, and the liquid drained from the whipped cream must not go in. This will make about one and one half quarts of mousse. PEACH MOUSSE Use fresh or canned peaches. Mash and rub them through a colander. Add to a cupful of peach pulp half a teaspoon- ful of lemon juice, a few drops of almond extract, and enough sugar to sweeten it. Dissolve in quarter of a cupful of hot peach juice one and three quarter tablespoonfuls of granulated gelatine which has been soaked for an hour in half a cupful of cold water. Add the gelatine to the peach mixture. When it begins to set, mix it until smooth, then fold in a half pint of cream whipped to a stiff froth, and turn it into a mold. Serve with whipped cream. The cream can be used to decorate the dish by pressing it through a pastry-bag. CHESTNUT PURflE Boil for five minutes a pound of French chestnuts, drain off the water and remove the shells and skins. Return the chestnuts to the fire and boil them until tender. Put the boiled chestnuts in a mortar, and pound them to a paste, then add a teaspoonful of vanilla and a teaspoonf ul of lemon juice. Make a thick sugar syrup, and beat it into the paste, using enough to sweeten to taste. Grease a ring-mold with oil, and put into it a lining half an inch thick of the NO. 133. PEACH MOUSSE GARNISHED WITH WHIPPED CREAM. NO. l:i4. rilESTNUT PUREE. NO. 135. CHESTNUT BAVARIAN. HOT DESSERTS — COLD DESSERTS — PIES — TARTS 149 chestnut paste pressed through a pastry-bag with a tube of small opening so it will come out vermicelli-like in form. Fill the rest of the mold with plain paste. Turn it on to a layer of sponge-cake. Just before serving fill the center of the ring with whipped cream flavored with almond. CHESTNUT BAVARIAN Prepare chestnuts as directed for chestnut puree. To two cupfuls of the puree add one ounce of gelatine which has been soaked for an hour in half a cupful of cold water and then dissolved in half a cupful of hot w^ater. Mix well, and when it begins to stiffen add a pint of cream whipped to a stiff froth, and turn the mixture into a ring-mold to harden. Fill the center with whipped cream, or with chestnuts boiled in sugar and water until they look clear. CHARLOTTE RUSSE 1 pint of milk, 1 pint of cream. Yolks of four eggs, ^ cupful of sugar, I boxful of gelatine, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla. Mix the sugar with the yolks of the eggs. Scald the milk and pour it over them. Place it on the fire and stir until the eggs are cooked, but not thickened like a custard, then add the gelatine, which has been soaked for an hour in half a cupful of cold water. When the gelatine is dissolved remove it from the fire, add the vanilla, and let it get cold. When the mixture begins to thicken add the cream whipped to a stiff' froth, and turn it into a mold lined with lady-fingers or with slices of sponge-cake. 150 LUNCHEONS STRAWBERRY CHARLOTTE RUSSE, No. 1 i box of gelatine, ^ cupful of cold water, 1^ cupfuls of powdered sugar, 1^ teaspoonfuls of lemon juice, 1 quart of berries, crusbed and pressed tbrougb a puree sieve, •J pint of cream, whipped. Soak the gelatine in the water for an hour, then set it in a pan of hot water to dissolve. Add to the crushed berries the powdered sugar, lemon juice, and gelatine. Put it aside for a while. When it begins to stiffen, beat it until it is light and spongy, then mix in the whipped ei-(>ani, being careful not to pour in any of the liquid cream that may have drained to the bottom of the dish. Turn the mixture into a charlotte- mold lincnl with lady-lingers. When it is unmolded garnish it with whole strawberries. STRAWBERRY CHARLOTTE RUSSE, No. 2 Line a china or earthen bowl or mold with strawberries cut in halves, and with the flat side of the berries placed close together against the mold. Arrange one or two rows at a time, and theji turn in the mixture to keep them in place. Fill the mold with the same mixture used in No. 1 ; or fill the mold with plain charlotte-russe filling, or with Bavarian cream. HOW TO MAKE MERINGUES Put a dash of salt into the whites of five or six eggs and whip them until very stiff and dry, then add slowly a quar- ter of a cupful of sifted powdered sugar for each egg. The sugar should be placed, a little at a time, at the end of the platter, and gradually whipped in. Continue to whip until NO. 136. HTKAVVIJKItltY ( IIAHI-OXIK HUftbh OAK.NInili-D WITH S'lKAV\JiKJ{JtJl.,h. NO. ].','. - I I: ', w i;l,l:l; ■, ■ ij \ i: 1/ , i j i. ..i,-l. ^' ^V, NO. 138. MKKl.NGCK lUMi WITH WHlI'rivD CKKAM. HOT DESSERTS — COLD DESSERTS — PIES — TARTS 151 the mixture is firm enough to stand without spreading, and any little point left by the beater remains erect. Success depends on the eggs being sufficiently beaten. The mixture can be made into various shapes with a spoon, but is better molded by being pressed through a pastry-bag. The tops can be smoothed and any irregularities effaced with a clean wet knife. The shapes should be arranged on paper placed on inverted baking-tins, and set in a moderate oven to form a thin crust, and to color lightly the tops, and then placed on the hot shelf of the range to dry. If the meringues stick to the paper, they can be easily removed by wetting the paper slightly. MERINGUE RING Place meringue mixture (see above) in a pastry-bag with star-tube. Draw on heavy paper two rings four to six inches in diameter, according to size desired. Any round utensil of right size can be used for guide. Press the meringue through the tube, following the circles marked on the paper. One of the rings— the top one— should be made more orna- mental than the other. This is easily done by moving the tube while the mixture is passing through it. With a wet knife make a narrow, smooth, flat surface on the top of the under ring. Lay the papers holding the rings on inverted baking-tins, and put them in a moderate oven for a few min- utes to color them and form a crust. Watch carefully that they do not get too brown. When lightly colored, remove them to the hot shelf to dry. Wlien they are sufficiently firm take them carefully off the paper, turn them over, break in the bottoms, then return them to the shelf to continue the drying. Place one ring on top of the other, and just before serving fill the center with whipped cream. Meringues may be kept for some time, but in that case should be freshened by heating before being used. 152 LUNCHEONS If preferred, the upper piece can be made into a cover as in illustration No. 139. MERINGUE CREAM TART, No. 1 Make meringues (see page 150) of oblong shape, three inches long and two inches wide. After the tops are firm, break in the bottoms in order to dry the insides. Trim the edges of a round layer of sponge-cake, spread it with jam of any kind, arrange the meringues around it, and at the moment of serving fill the center of the tart with whipped cream. Flavor the cream, if desired. It will take a dozen meringues to make the crown. Arrange the crown as follows : Put half a cupful of sugar and a quarter cupful of hot water into a saucepan and stir until the sugar dissolves, then let it cook, without stirring, until a little dropped into cold water is brittle ; it is then boiled to the crack. Draw the saucepan to the side of the range, so the sugar will be kept hot without cooking any more. Dip the end of a meringue into the sugar and place it on the cake; hold it in place while you dip a second meringue and place it under the first one. Proceed in this way until all are placed, then put a drop of the boiled sugar on the top of each one where it touches the next one. The whole will then be held firmly in place. MERINGUE CREAM TART, No. 2 Make meringue mixture into small kisses, leaving the point left by the tube erect. Spread a layer of cake with jam as in No. 1. Stick a candied cherry on the point of each kiss and arrange them as shown in illustration. Fill the center with whipped cream. NO. 139. MERINGUE CROM N. NO. 140. MERraOUE CREAM TART, NO. 1. NO. 141. MERINGUE CREAM TART, NO. '1. NO. 142. MERINGUES FILLKD WITH WHIPPED CREAM OR WITH ICE CREAM. NO. 143. BAVARIAN CREAM GARNISHED WITH CREAM CAKES. NO. 144. TART OF PUFF-PASTE WITH STRAWBERRY JAM. HOT DESSEETS — COLD DESSERTS — PIES — TARTS 153 MERINGUES FILLED WITH WHIPPED CREAM OR WITH ICE CREAM Make oblong-shaped meringues, as for cream tart No. 1. Just before serving, fill them with whipped cream, or with ice cream^ and press two together. If necessary, use a little white of egg on the edges to make them adhere. CHOCOLATE CREAM Scald two cupfuls of milk. Melt on a dry pan two squares of unsweetened chocolate, add the hot milk slowly to the chocolate, stirring all the time. Let it come to the boiling- point. Beat two whole eggs and two yolks with four table- spoonfuls of sugar, stir the milk and chocolate into the eggs, add half a teaspoonful of vanilla and a dash of salt. Turn the mixture into a mold, set it into a pan of hot water, and cook in a slow oven until it is firm. In order to have it smooth and solid it must bake slowly. Test it by running in the point of a knife; if it is not cooked, it will coat the knife with milk. Unmold when cold and serve with whipped cream. CHOCOLATE SPONGE Make the same mixture as for chocolate cream. Instead of cooking it slowly, put it into a hot oven and cook it until the whey appears. By cooking in a hot oven it will be full of holes and have a sponge-like appearance. AVhen cold, unmold it and let the whey escape. Serve with whipped cream. BAVARIAN CREAM GARNISHED WITH CREAM-CAKES Make a Bavarian cream (see "Century Cook Book," page 400), and turn it into a flat tin to harden. Have it about half an inch thick. When it is set, cut it into pieces two and 154 LUNCHEONS a luiir to tlnvo inches squaiv, aiul nt-range them, overlapping, in the center of a dish. Thice around tlieiu small cream- cakes of one inch in diameter. Cornstarch puddinj?, jelly, or any mixture iinn enouii'h to be sliced can be served in tliis way. Left-over jelly can be melted and molded ai^ain in a layer, or it may be com- biui'd with custard, civam. i-nuubiMl cake, or anything' suit- able that may be at hand, and turned into a layer-tin to stitTen; then cnt and serve as above. Any small cakes or sliced cak(> cut into rounds may be substituted for the cream- cakes. Chocolate liavarian garnished with small cakes covered ■with white icing makes a good combination. PIES AND TARTS PUFF-PASTE PulT-paste is made of ecjual weights of bntter and tlonr. The flonr is made into a paste, the bntter is worked luitil it is flexible, and they are then rolled together and folded several times so that many distinct layers of bntter and paste are obtained. Dnring the rolling air is imprisoned, and in baking the air-cells expand, separate the layers, and so intlate the pastry. In order to effect this result, it is necessary to keep the pastry dry and cold, and the butter cold, so that they will not mix in rolling, bnt be pressed into thin sheets. Careful handling is necessary. Many failures are the resnlt of press- ing the paste in spots with the fingers, which prevents its rising evenly, if at all. A marble slab is desirable for rolling the paste on, as it helps to keep it cold. HOT DESSERTS — COLD DESSERTS — PIES — TARTS 155 Either of the following mixtures may be used : No. 1. 1 pound of butter, 1 pound of flour (pastry flour preferred), About 1 cupful of cold water. No. 2. 1 pound of butter, 1 cupful of flour, 1 cupful of water. White of one egg, Cut one sixth of the butter into the flour for the paste. No salt is needed if salted butter is used. Put the flour on the slab, chop into it, using a knife, one sixth of the butter, then moisten it with the water into which has been stirred the beaten white of one egg. The exact amount of water cannot be given, as that depends upon the dryness of the flour, but care must be taken to have the paste of the right consistency. It should be neither too hard to roll easily, nor so soft that it will stick, but have a flex- ible, dry consistency. Work it for a few minutes M-ith the hands to a perfect smoothness. Roll it to a rectangular shape (a little longer than broad), and about a half inch in thickness. The paste can be handled with impunity at this stage, and care should be taken to roll it to an even thick- ness and to have the edges straight and the corners square. When just right, fold it over, wrap it in a napkin, put it in a pan, and place the pan upon ice. Work the butter with a spoon or a pat until it is smooth and flexible, and press out as much of the water it contains as possible, as this wets the paste and may make it sticky. Mold the butter into a smooth, flattened square cake and set it on ice. When the paste and the butter are perfectly cold lay the paste on the slab, place the cake of butter in the center, and fold the paste over it, first on the sides, and then the ends. 156 LUNCHEONS The paste should be long enough to fold the end pieces en- tirely across the cake of butter, Koll it out into a strip three times longer than broad. Eolling is made easier by lightly pounding as well as rolling the paste. Keep the edges even, and finish by having the corners square and the whole of uniform thickness. Fold the strip twice, making three even layers, and place it on the ice again, wrapped in a napkin, to prevent it from gathering moisture. When it is entirely cold, roll it out again and fold it in the same way. Strike the edges to keep the folds from separating, and turn the paste so as to roll it in the opposite direction from the pre- vious time. Endeavor to keep the edges straight and cor- ners square, so the layers will be even. After each folding and rolling, it is said to have one *'turn," and the pastry is not finished until it has had six to eight turns. The rolling becomes more difficult as the layers get thinner, and great care must be used not to let the butter break through. This will happen if it is not kept very cold ; so, unless the rolling is done in a very cold room, it is safer to put it on the ice after each turn. If the butter shows signs of coming through, cover the spot with flour, and set it away at once. The paste should also be very cold when cut into shapes, so that the edges will not stick together ; and again, it should be very cold before being put into the oven. The oven should be hot. A simple test of the heat is to place a piece of writing-paper in the oven for ten minutes. If at the end of that time the paper is a light yellow, the heat is right for vol-au-vent and large pieces. If it is a light- brown color, it is about the heat used for Haking bread, and is right for patty-shells. After a little practice the making of pufl:'-paste becomes an easy matter. The rolling need not be done all in one day, for if the paste is kept dry and cold, and not allowed to form a crust, it will keep for several days. So many high-class HOT DESSERTS — COLD DESSEETS — PIES — TARTS 157 dishes can be made of puff-paste, it is desirable to accom- plish the art of making it. JAM TART Tart cases may be prepared the same as vol-au-vent cases, page 71, except that the paste should be rolled not more than half an inch thick when ready to be cut ; or, instead of cutting the border in the paste, as for vol-au-vents, a strip of paste one inch wide may be laid around the edge. The strips should be cut diagonally on the ends, and these edges mois- tened so they will stick together where joined. Lay the strip carefully around the slightly moistened border of the bottom piece, paint the top with egg, and bake in a hot oven for thirty minutes. Remove carefully the top of the center, and take out any uncooked paste, return it to the oven to dry the inside. Before using, heat the tart again to make it crisp, and when cool spread the inside with a layer of any kind of jam or preserved fruit, put on the center piece, which was taken off to get out the uncooked paste, and cover the entire center with jam. Serve it on a lace paper. TARTLET SHELLS Use puff-paste trimmings. Roll the paste thin, shape it to the pans, being careful to press the paste as little as pos- sible. Trim the edges with a sharp knife. Put a piece of paper in the bottom of each one, and fill the tartlet cases with dried peas, beans, or rice, and bake in a hot oven ten to fifteen minutes. When well browned, remove the filling, being particularly careful, if rice is used, that every grain is picked off the crusts. Return the shells to the oven for a minute to dry the insides. 158 LUNCHEONS These shells can be kept for some time, but should be freshened before using by being heated again. Fill them, just before serving, with any kind of jam or preserve, or with any freshly stewed fruits, or with creamed minced meat. STRAWBERRY TARTLETS Use tartlet shells made of any good pastry, puff-paste trim- mings preferred. Just before serving, freshen the shells by heating them, if they have been kept some time, and fill with stewed fresh strawberries. Serve the juice separately in a sauce-dish. To prepare the strawberries, put them in a saucepan and cover them with enough sugar to sweeten them. Let them stand in a warm place until the juice moistens the sugar. Cook them slowly until the berries are softened, but not so long that they lose their shape. FRANGIPANE TARTLETS Line patty-pans with puff-paste rolled one quarter of an inch thick. Cut the paste an inch larger than the pans, and fit it as carefully as possible, pressing it lightly with the broad finger into the flutings. Prick the bottom crust and lay on it a slice of bread cut to the size of the bottom of the pan. This is to prevent the bottom crust from rising and to leave the sides to puff, as the light pastry is an important part of these tartlets. Bake in a hot oven about fifteen min- utes. When done remove any uncooked paste and fill with frangipane cream. Cover the whole top with meringue, piling it high in the center, and smooth it with a wet knife. Make a border one half an inch wide of chopped almonds which have been blanched and browned. Place in the center a half cherry and two pieces of angelica to imitate a flower. NO. 145. STRAWBERKT TARTLETS. NO. 146. FRANGIPANE TARTLETS ^"":^?a NO. 147. JALOUSIES. HOT DESSERTS — COLD DESSERTS— PIES— TARTS 159 FRANGIPANE CREAM I cupful of cream, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 4 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, 1 tablespoonful of sherry, 1 tablespoonful of brandy, 1 teaspoonful of orange-flower water, 1 grated lemon rind, 1 tablespoonful of chopped citron, 4 egg yolks. Put the cream and flour in a small saucepan and stir until smooth, place on the fire a few minutes to cook the flour, stir- ring all the time. Remove from the fire, and when it is a little cooled add all the other ingredients. Set the saucepan in a second saucepan containing hot water and cook, stirring all the time, until the mixture has become a thick cream. FRUIT TARTLETS Prepare tartlet shells as for frangipane tartlets. Half fill the shells with frangipane cream, cover each one with half a California canned peach or apricot, and decorate around the outside of the fruit with meringue pressed through a pastry-bag. JALOUSIES Roll puff-paste trimmings into a sheet one eighth of an inch thick. Cut it into strips three inches wide. Lay half of the strips on a baking-sheet and spread them with a layer of well-seasoned and quite dry apple sauce. Cover them with the remaining strips, which have been slashed into triangular openings by being folded over and cut on the folded side an inch deep in diagonal lines. Egg the tops and bake in a 160 LUNCHEONS hot oven. When done, sprinkle with sugar and return them to the oven for a minute to glaze. Cut the strips after they are baked into pieces three inches long. CRANBERRY PIE Add to half a cupful of hot water a cupful of sugar and a tablespoonful of cornstarch diluted with a little water. Stir until the water boils, then add half a cupful of mo- lasses, half a tablespoonful of butter, a saltspoonful of salt, and a pint of chopped cranberries. Cook for a few minutes, then turn it into the pastry and bake with or with- out an upper crust. COCOANUT PIE Grate a cocoanut. Mix it with an equal weight of sugar and the beaten yolks of four eggs. Mix together and scald a cupful of milk and the milk of the cocoanut. Add a table- spoonful of cornstarch diluted with a little water, and stir it until it is a little thickened. Remove it from the fire, add the cocoanut mixture, and lastly the whipped whites of four eggs. Turn it into a deep pie-paste and bake very slowly for half an hour, or until firm to the touch.' Serve cold. The cocoanut fiUling should be one and a half or one and three quarter inches thick. A kitchen basin may be used for the baking-dish, or the crust can be built up around a pie-dish to make it deeper, CURRANT PIE Add to a cupful of mashed currants a cupful of sugar, half a teaspoonful of butter, the yolk of an egg, and if there is much juice a tablespoonful of flour. Bake with an under- crust only, and cover the top with meringue. NO. 148. COCOANUT PIE. NO. 150. BTKAWBERKY CAKK. HOT DESSERTS - COLD DESSERTS — PIES— TARTS 161 LEMON PIE, No. 1 3 eg^'s, 2 cupfuls of rniJk, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, scant, 1 lablcspoonful of butter, 5 tablespoonfuls of sugar, or to taste, Juice and grated rind of one and a half lemons. Beat together tbe yolkn of three (?ggs and the whilci of one egg, then add, in the following order, the sugar, the flour, the butter, and tin; milk. Lastly, add very slowly th(? juice and grated rind of lemon. Turn the mixture into a 7)ie-dish lined with a bottom crust and bake it slowly until it is set like a custard. Do not let it cook too long, or, like custard, it will b(;come watery. Make a meringue of the whites of two eggs. Beat them to a stifiC froth, then add slowly two tablespoonfuls of sugar. Spread the meringue roughly over tlie pie when it is taken from the oven, and return it to the oven for a minute to color the meringue. The top may b."). rUUKANT-.silDHTt'AKi; CUT. HOT DESSERTS — COLD DESSERTS— PIES — TARTS 163 roll. Turn it into a well-greased pie-tin, smooth the top with a wet knife, and put it at once into a hot oven to bake for thirty minutes. When it is taken from the oven trim the edges and split the biscuit in two, using two forks so as to tear, not cut, it apart. Spread each half with butter while it is still hot. Stem a box of currants. Reserve a few of the finest ones to decorate the top of the shortcake. Put the rest of the currants into a bowl and mash them, add enough sugar to sweeten to taste, and let them stand an hour or more before using them. Spread the mashed currants over one half of the buttered biscuit, lay the other half on it. Cover the top with me- ringue made of the whipped whites of two eggs sweetened with two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. Decorate with whole currants as shown in illustration. It can be more elaborately decorated by pressing the meringue through a pastry-bag and tube into ornamental shapes, and placing currants on it as the fancy dictates. Serve very fresh. Chapter XI TENTH COURSE ICES ICES Ice Cream, Plain Water-ice, Orange Ice Cream with Hot Chocolate Water-ice, Strawberry Sauce Water-ice, Apricot Ice Cream with Hot Maple Sauce Water-ice, Pineapple Ice Cream, Strawberry Water-ice, Macedoine Ice Cream, Melon Cafe Frappe Ice Cream, Peach Cake Water-ice, Lemon PLAIN ICE CREAM To serve with or without hot sauces. 2 eupfuls of milk, 1 cupful of cream, ^ cupful of sugar, 2 whole eggs, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla. Mix the eggs with the sugar, then scald the milk and turn it over them. Place the whole on the fire in a double boiler and cook for a few minutes to set the eggs, but not so long that the mixture thickens like a custard. Remove from the fire and add the cream and vanilla. When it is cold, freeze and mold it. HOT CHOCOLATE SAUCE FOR ICE CREAM Put four squares of unsweetened chocolate into a sauce- pan. Set the saucepan into a second one containing hot water, let the chocolate melt on the dry pan, then remove it and stir in first a cupful of sugar and then half a cupful of hot water. Return it to the fire and stir until the sugar is dissolved and the mixture is smooth, then cook without stirring until a little dropped into cold water can be taken up and rolled into a ball between the fingers. Do not let it cook any farther, but keep the pan in hot water until ready to serve, then turn it into a hot sauce-dish. It will harden and form a crust when turned over the cream. 167 168 LUNCHEONS It is essential to prepare it exactly as directed. If the chocolate is not first melted on a dry pan it will be grainy, and if the water is added first it will harden, HOT MAPLE SAUCE FOR ICE CREAM Mix half a cupful of cream with two cup fills of maple syrup and let it cook without stirring until it threads, or a little dropped into water can be taken up and rolled into a soft ball between the fingers. Do not let it cook any farther, but set the pan in hot water and keep it warm until the moment of serving. STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM 1 pint of milk, 1 pint of cream, 1 pound of sugar, 1 quart of strawberries, or of strawberries and raspberries mixed. Mix the crushed berries with half of the sugar and let them stand for several hours, then squeeze out the juice. Scald the milk with the other half of the sugar, let it cool, half freeze it, then add the cream and the fruit juice and fin- ish the freezing. MELON ICE CREAM 1 pint of milk, 1 pint of cream, 1^ pints of lemon juice, 2^ cupfuls of sugar. Scrape out the soft center of a muskmelon, press it through' a colander, add half the sugar to it, and let it stand several hours, then strain out the juice. Scald the milk with the other half of the sugar, let it cool, mix in the cream and half freeze it, then add the melon ICES 169 juice and finish the freezing. Serve it in the melon rind or mold it. To mold, line a melon-mold with a layer one inch thick of the frozen cream, colored green, and fill the center with the plain cream. PEACH ICE CREAM 1 pint of milk, 1 pint of cream, 1^ pints of peach pulp, 2^ cupfuls of sugar. Add half of the sugar to the peach pulp and let it stand for two or three hours, then press it again through a sieve or colander. Scald the milk with half of the sugar, let it cool, half freeze it, and then add the cream and peach pulp and finish freezing. WATER-ICES Express the juice from any fruit, dilute it with a little water, or leave it pure, make it very sweet with sugar, or, preferably, sugar syrup, and add a very little lemon juice. Freeze the mixture. Syrup from preserve-jars, diluted to the right degree, makes good water-ice. Water-ices are difficult to mold, so it is better to serve them in glasses or in individual dishes. LEMON ICE Juice of four large lemons, Juice of one orange, 2^ cupfuls of sugar. Boil the sugar and water for ten minutes, then add the fruit juice, strain it, and when it is cold freeze it. 170 LUNCHEONS ORANGE ICE 1^ cupfuls of orange juice, Juice of 1 lemon, 2| cupfuls of sugar, 1 cupful of water. Boil the sugar and water for ten minutes, add the fruit juice, strain it, and when it is cold freeze it. STRAWBERRY ICE 1^ cupfuls of strawberry juice, 2 cupfuls of sugar, 1 quart of water. Crush the berries and let them stand in part of the sugar for two to three hours, then strain out the juice. Boil the water with the rest of the sugar for ten minutes, add the fruit juice, and when it is cold freeze it by turning the crank for five minutes, then stopping for five minutes, and so on until it is frozen. Serve in individual glasses. APRICOT ICE Chop, mash, and press through a sieve a canful of Califor- nia canned apricots. To the pulp add the juice from the can, two cupfuls of water, and enough sugar to make it quite sweet. Freeze and serve in glasses. PINEAPPLE ICE Cut off the top of a pineapple and take out the center, being careful to leave the rind uninjured. Grate the pine- apple, and to the pulp and juice add a cupful of water, the juice of a lemon, and enough sugar to make it very sweet, as it loses sweetness in freezing. Freeze it and serve it in the shell of the pine. NO. 150. ri.M;Ai'i'i>i; i(;k. NO. 157. .M.\CI'.l I'lMJAPPLE AKOUNU A FORM OF EKE, NO. 3. NO. 162. SLICED PINEAPPLE, NO. 4. PINEAPPLE This is a well-selected pine called the sugar-loaf on account of its tapering to a point on top. The top and bottom are cut off square, and then the rind on the sides. The inside is cut into slices quarter of an inch thick, and left together in natural shape. The rind is then fitted around it and, if necessary, held in place with wooden toothpicks used as skewers. These will not show, and can be easily removed at the time of serving. Use the pine as a table ornament or centerpiece. No. 1. The rind is removed from the pine shown in illus- tration No. 158; it is then covered with sugar and passed. No. 2. The pineapple has been cut into slices quarter of an inch thick, and then in halves. The half slices are stood on edge and powdered sugar is placed in the center of the circle. Pineapple is much better in thick slices. The less taste of the knife the better. Cut in this way, there is no difficulty about the pieces standing in place as shown in illustration. No. 3. Cut the pineapple into slices quarter of an inch thick, and then into quarters. Arrange the quarters, stand- ing on edge, diagonally around the mound of boiled rice. Place the sprout of the pine in the center of 175 176 LUNCHEONS the mound of rice. Have the rice sweetened and fla- vored. Sherry or maraschino are good flavorings to use. Cornstarch pudding, blancmange, or any simple jelly, can be used instead of the rice. No. 4. Cut a pineapple into slices quarter of an inch thick. With a small biscuit-cutter stamp out the hard cen- ters, leaving the pineapple in rings. Arrange the rings, overlapping, in a circle. Sprinkle them with granulated sugar, and garnish with a small leaf of the pine laid in each hole. Pulled pineapple. This is a delicious way of serving the pine when it is very ripe. Cut off the rind, and with a small, pointed knife take out the eyes. Put a fork in the hard core to hold it, and with a second fork tear off the soft pulp. Pile the pieces in a glass dish and sprinkle them plentifully with sugar. Let it stand a few minutes to extract the juice before serving. CHERRIES No. 1. Tie the cherries together by the stems into bunches resembling bunches of grapes. If convenient, have bunches of red and white cherries on the same dish. No. 2. Turn lace papers into cornucopias and fill them with cherries tied into even bunches ; let the stems turn to the points of the cornucopias, so the fruit only shows in the opening. Arrange the cornucopias on center dishes, in cone shape, the points in. Note.— For other arrangements of fruits, see "Century Cook Book," page 529. NO. 163. rULLED PINEAPl^LE. NO. 164. STRAWBERRIES SERVED WITH THE HULLS ON. NO. 165. PEARS ARRANGED FOR CENTERPIECE. NO. 166. CENTERPIECE OF RED AND OF WHITE CURRANTS FOR THE BREAKFAST- OR THE LUXCHEON-TABLE. NO 167. CENTERPIECE OF RED AND OF WHITE CURRANTS ARRANGED IN A CIRCLE, THE COLORS ALTERNATING. Chaptee XIII LOAF CAKES-SMALL CAKES-FANCY CAKES 12 LOAF CAKES Gingerbread with Chocolate Glaze Gingerbread with Whipped Cream Gingerbread with Preserved Gin- ger Orange-cake, No. 1 Orange-cake, No. 2, or Plain Cup-cake Chocolate-cake Cocoanut-cake Cocoanut Cream-cake Cake Decorated with Star Cake Decorated in Two Shades of White Icing Iced Cake Decorated with Pink Bow-knot Cake Decorated with Candied Violets Cake Decorated with Candied Kose-leaves Cake-basket Holding Meringue Mushrooms SMALL CAKES Jelly-roll Daisy Cakes Medallion Fruit-cakes Cup-cakes with Flower Design Decoration of FANCY CAKES Cherry-cakes Domino Cakes Marble Cakes Hemispheres Cream-cakes Cream-cakes, Iced Cream-cakes with Jam and Whip- ped Cream Little Cream-cakes with Caramel Icing Meringue Mushrooms Cocoanut Meringues Galettes Pastry Fingers LOAF CAKES GINGERBREAD WITH CHOCOLATE GLAZE No. 1. I of a cupful of butter, 1 cupful of sugar, 3 cupfuls of flour, 1 cupful of dark molasses, 1 cupful of black coffee, 1 teaspoonful of ginger, ^ teaspoonful of cloves, 1 teaspoonful of cinnamon, 1 teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda, 3 eggs. Mix the spices with the molasses. Dissolve the soda in a little boiling water and add it to the coffee. Cream together the butter and sugar, add the eggs, one at a time, and beat each one well. Add the molasses, then the coffee and flour, a little at a time, alternately. Bake in two bread-tins in a moderate oven forty to sixty minutes, or until the cake leaves the sides of the pans. Invert the loaves and cover the tops with a chocolate glaze made as follows : CHOCOLATE GLAZE Put into a double saucepan two ounces or squares of chocolate. When it is melted remove it from the fire and stir into it half a cupful of sugar, then add a quarter cupful of hot water. Return it to the fire, stir it until the sugar 179 180 LUNCHEONS is dissolved, and continue to cook it without stirring until a little dropped in water can be taken up and rolled between the fingers into a soft ball. Pour it over the top of the cake. No. 2. With whipped cream. Use the same receipt as No. 1, substituting a cupful of boiling water for the coffee, and using half butter and half lard; or two cupfuls of molasses may be used, and the sugar omitted. In the latter case two teaspoonfuls of soda instead of one should be dissolved in a cupful of boiling water. Serve the cake very fresh, and cover the top just be- fore serving with whipped cream. The cake may be broken into squares, and the pieces fitted together and covered entirely with W'liipped cream. It can then be passed with a fork and spoon, as a dessert. No. 3. With preserved ginger, 1 cupful of black molasses, ^ cupful of butter, 2 cupfuls of flour, ■J cupful of boiling water with a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in it, •| teaspoonful of ginger, 2 eggs, A dash of salt. Warm the molasses and mix it with the butter, add the ginger and salt, then the beaten eggs, and lastly the flour and water, a little at a time, alternately. Bake in a square pan. Break the cake into square pieces. Open each piece and spread between the halves some icing, No. 1 or No. 2, mixed with chopped preserved ginger; or use a chocolate icing. Serve very fresh. NO. 168. GINGERBREAD. 1. WITH WHIPPED CREAM. 2. WITH CHOCOLATE GLAZE. NO. 169. ORANGE-CAKE IN CRESCENTS. NO. 170. COCOANUT-CAKE, LOAF CAKES — SMALL CAKES — FANCY CAKES 181 ORANGE-CAKE, No. 1 Yolks of five eggs, Whites of three eggs, 2 cupfuls of powdered sugar, 2 cupfuls of flour sifted three times with 1 teaspoonful of baking-powder, ^ cupful of water, Juice of one orange. Grated peel of one half orange. First beat the yolks and sugar together thoroughly, then add the orange juice and grated peel, then the flour and water, a little at a time, alternately, and lastly the whites of three eggs whipped to a stiff froth. Make the layer one and a quarter inches thick for cres- cents. Bake in a moderate oven about twenty minutes, or until the cake leaves the sides of the pan. Cut the layer into pieces with a crescent-shaped cutter, and cover the tops with icing No. 1, page 191, made of confectioners' sugar and with water strained from grated peel. Arrange the crescents as shown in illustration. The amount of mixture given in above receipt will make a long layer which can be cut into eight crescents, and two round layers one inch thick and six inches in diameter. Spread the tops of the round layers with same icing and place one on top of the other; or use cocoanut cream filling in place of the icing, as in illustration No. 171. ORANGE-CAKE, No. 2, or PLAIN CUP-CAKE ^ cupful of butter, | cupful of milk, 1 cupful of sugar, 2 eggs, 2 cupfuls of sifted flour, | teaspoonful of baking-powder, Grated rind and juice of one orange, or of one lemon, 182 LUNCHEONS Beat together the butter and sugar, add the yolks of the eggs and the flavoring, then alternately, a little at a time, the milk and the flour which has been mixed with the baking- powder by sifting them together. Lastly fold in the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Bake in a moderate oven. If flavored with orange, cover the loaf with orange icing, or bake it in layers and spread the icing between the layers as well as on top. The icing should be mixed with the juice of an orange and the part put between the layers should have some of the grated peel in it. CHOCOLATE-CAKE Shave four squares of unsweetened chocolate, add half a cupful of milk and half a cupful of sugar. Boil until thickened, then add a teaspoonful of vanilla. Mix half a cupful of butter and half a cupful of sugar, stir them to a cream, then add the beaten yolks of three eggs and the chocolate mixture, then alternately, a little at a time, two cupfuls of sifted flour mixed with a teaspoonful of baking-powder, and half a cupful of milk. Lastly, fold in the whites of two eggs. Bake in loaves or in layers in a moderate oven. This amount of mixture will make two loaves. Cover with chocolate icing No. 13. If in layers, use the same icing between the layers. COCOANUT-CAKE Make two layers of cake, using any cake mixture. Spread cream filling between the layers. Cut the edges even, using a sharp knife. Cover the whole with icing and before it hardens sprinkle it with a plentiful amount of grated cocoa- nut. NO. 171. COCOANUT-CREAM CAKE. NO. 17'i. LOAF OF ( Alvi: i>i.(()i;\'n.i) w rni row ])i.i;i.i.' .-i i,\i; ami STAK OF ro\Vl>EKEU COCOA. NO. 173. LOAF OF CAKE DECORATED WITH ICING IN TWO SHADES OF WHITE. LOAF CAKES— SMALL CAKES — FANCY CAKES 183 COCOANUT CREAM-CAKE Use any cake mixture for the layers. The orange-cake mixtures are recommended. Make a filling as follows : put in a saucepan, 1 cupful of milk, 1 cupful of sugar, "I cupful of cocoanut, A piece of butter the size of a nutmeg. Mix them and let them come to the boiling-point, then add slowly a heaping tablespoonful of cornstarch, moistened with a tablespoonful of milk, and stir until the mixture is thick- ened. Remove it from the fire and add the beaten yolk of an egg. When it cools and is beginning to set, spread it over the tops of both layers of cake and place one on the other. Trim the edges. Sprinkle the top with powdered sugar or with grated cocoanut. The cake in the illustration has in the center a confec- tioner's rose. Various kinds of sugar flowers can be bought at bakers' supply stores. CAKE DECORATED WITH STAR Paint the surface of an inverted loaf of any kind of cake with white of egg, then sift over it while it is moist enough powdered sugar to whiten it. Place a star stencil on top, get it exactly in the center, and sift powdered cocoa into the opening. The star could be made of granulated sugar, colored pink, if preferred, or a space could be filled with small candies called ' ' hundreds and thousands. ' ' TO MAKE STENCIL Place a piece of stiff paper over the bottom of the inverted pan in which the cake was baked and crease it enough to in- 184 LUNCHEONS dicate the circle. Outline the circle with a pencil and draw inside of it two other circles, the first half an inch and the second one and a half inches inside the outer one. Draw two lines across the circles at right angles, then two more lines at equal distances between the others, then draw pointed lines in the eight spaces between the second and third circles. CAKE DECORATED IN TWO SHADES OF WHITE ICING The illustration shows a simple pattern for decorating a loaf of cake. The cake can be made of any mixture. It is first covered with icing No. 3, page 192, which gives a clear icing and makes a good background for the white lines. If it does not run evenly dip a knife in water and smooth it. Most irregularities can be smoothed out with a clean, wet knife. The lines are made of decorating icing, which is white (No. 16, page 195), pressed through a pastry- bag with tube of small opening. Each one of the center figures of the pattern holds a small silvered pellet of candy. ICED CAKE DECORATED WITH PINK BOW-KNOT Cover the cake with a smooth, hard icing (No. 2 or No. 4). Put decorating icing (No. 16), colored pink with cochineal, into a pastry-bag with tube of plain, small opening, and trace a bow-knot with it. Fill the space between the outlines with pink icing, and flatten it, to look like a ribbon, with a wet knife. If the icing is not satisfactory, take it off with a knife, wipe the cake with a dry cloth, and make another trial. A little practice with a pencil, drawing a knot of the right size on paper, will enable one to trace more easily the outlines on the cake. NO. 174. ICED CAKE DECORATED WITH PINK HOW-KNOT. NO. 175. 1. ICED CAKE DECORATED WITH CANDIED ROSE-LEAVES. 2. ICED CAKE DECORATED WITH CANDIED VIOLETS. NO. 176. LOAF OF CAKE COVERED WITH TUTTI FRUTTI ICING. NO. 177. CAKE-BASKET HOLDING MERINGUE MUSHKOOM!' NO. 178. 1. JELLY-KOLL. 2. DAISY CAKES. 3. MEDALLION FKUIT-CAKES. LOAF CAKES— SMALL CAKES— FANCY CAKES 185 CAKES DECORATED WITH CANDIED VIOLETS AND WITH CANDIED ROSE-LEAVES No. 1. Cover a loaf of cake with icing flavored with rose- water or extract. Scatter over it candied pink rose- leaves. No. 2. Make a loaf of orange-cake. Cover it with white icing, and arrange around it candied violets form- ing two wreaths. CAKE-BASKET HOLDING MERINGUE MUSHROOMS Make a loaf of any kind of cake, cup- or sponge-cake pre- ferred. Bake it in a fluted pan. Soften a long piece of macaroni in boiling-hot water. It must be pressed carefully and gradually into the water as the ends soften. When the macaroni is sufficiently softened, pour cold water over it, lay it on a board, and bend it into the shape of a handle of suitable size for the cake. Let it dry, then brush it with the white of egg and sprinkle it with granulated sugar. Cut little holes in the top of the cake and insert the handle. Cover the top of the cake with mushroom-shaped meringues (see page 189). SMALL CAKES No. 1. Jelly-roll. Make a layer of sponge-cake, and while it is still hot cut off the edges, spread it with jelly, and roll it together. Then roll it in a stiff paper and tie it. If the cake is not over-baked and is rolled while hot it will not crack. The paper will keep it in shape. Cover the top and ends with icing. Decorate it with tracings of icing, candied cherries, and angelica. 186 LUNCHEONS No. 2. Daisy cakes. Drop separate spoonfuls of sponge- cake mixture at intervals on a baking-sheet. Bake in a hot oven for a few minutes only, and watch care- fully that the edges do not burn. The cakes will spread, rising in the center, and be thin on the edges. Spread the flat sides with an icing colored green. Blanch some almonds, split them, and cut them in strips. Arrange them in a circle, and place in the center a little icing mixed with yolk of egg to color it yellow ; or the icing can be white and the almonds colored in the oven to a light yellow. No. 3. Medallion fruit-cakes. Use a sponge- or a cup-cake mixture and bake it in gem-pans. If they rise in the center cut off the tops to even them. Invert them, and with a small cutter stamp a circle in the center of each one and take out a thin layer of the cake. Cover the rest of the cakes with icing, or the cakes may be moistened with water and then rubbed over with powdered sugar to whiten them. Place in the center of each, where the piece was removed, a piece of preserved peach or other fruit, cut with the same stamp previously used, so the fruit will exactly fit the opening. CUP-CAKES WITH DECORATION OF FLOWER DESIGN Make a cup-cake mixture and bake it in gem-pans. In- vert the cakes and cover them with icing Nos. 1, 2, or 3. Place on top of each one half a candied cherry, the flat side down, two pieces of angelica cut into diamond shape to im- itate leaves, and a thin strip of angelica to imitate a stem. Na 179. CUP-CAKES, DECORATION OF FLOWER DESIGN. NO. 180. FANCY CAKES. 1. CHERRY CAKES. 2. DOMINO CAKES. 3. MARBLE CAKES, i, HEMISPHERES. LOAF CAKES — SMALL CAKES — FANCY CAKES 187 FANCY CAKES No, 1. Cherry-cakes. Cut a layer of any kind of cake into pieces three inches long and two and a quarter wide. Ice them, lay on candied cherries cut in halves, small strips of angelica imitating stems, and angelica cut in diamond-shaped pieces imitating leaves. The cakes in illustration are made of sponge-cake; the two on the outside are covered with icing No. 4, the other two with maple icing No. 5. No. 2. Domino cakes. Cut a layer of cake into two pieces. Cover one with chocolate icing and the other with white icing. While the icing is still soft cut the cake, using a sharp knife, into pieces three inches long and one and a half inches wide. Put a little decorating icing (No. 16) into a pastry- bag with plain tube of small opening, and press it through on to the cakes in dots and lines to imitate dominoes. Use white icing for the chocolate pieces, and the same icing mixed with cocoa powder for the white pieces. No. 3. Marble cakes. Drop any cake mixture from a spoon on to a floured baking-sheet, using about a dessert- spoonful of mixture for each cake, and leaving enough space for the cakes to spread. Place on the flat sides icings of three colors and let them run together irregularly to give a marble-like appearance. No. 4. Hemispheres. Make a cake mixture, using, I cupful of butter, ^ cupful of powdered sugar, f cupful of pastry flour, ^ teaspoonful of vanilla. Yolks of two eggs. 188 LUNCHEONS Cream together the butter and sugar, add the yolks and flavoring, and then the flour. Make it into balls one inch in diameter, by rolling small portions of the mixture between the hands. Roll the balls in powdered sugar and place them on a floured tin. They will flatten in baking and leave the shape of hemispheres. Bake them in a moderate oven ten to fifteen minutes. Cover the flat sides with icing of different colors and ornament with decorating icing pressed through a tube of small opening. In the illustration some of the cakes have only the deco- rating icing in rings with a spot of jelly in the center, others have pistache with decoration, and others have plain icing with a spot of jelly in the center. CREAM-CAKES To a cupful of hot water add a tablespoonful of butter, a tablespoonful of sugar, and a dash of salt. AVhen the sugar is dissolved and the butter melted add a cupful and a quarter of flour. Cook it, stirring all the time, until it is a smooth paste that leaves the sides of the pan. Let it cool a few minutes and then add three or, if necessary, four eggs, beating in well one at a time. The paste should have suf- ficient consistency to hold its shape without spreading when dropped from a spoon. Put the paste into a pastry-bag with a plain tube of half- inch opening and press it through into balls from three quarters of an inch to two and a half inches in diameter, according to the size of cakes wanted. Brush the tops with egg and bake in a slow oven for thirty to forty minutes, or until the cakes are puffed and feel light. If they are to be used for plain cream-cakes, open them on one side and put in a gpoonful of cream filling made as follows : NO. 181. CRKAM CAKES, ICED. NO. 182. CKEAM CAKES WITH JAM AND WHIPPED CKEA5I. NO. 183. MEBINGUE MUSHROOMS. LOAF CAKES -SMALL CAKES — FANCY CAKES 189 CREAM FILLING Beat together the yolks of five eggs, half a cupful of sugar, and a heaping tablespoonful of cornstarch, add a pint of scalding milk and stir over the fire until it is well thickened, then add half a teaspoonful of vanilla or other flavoring. CREAM-CAKES, ICED Make cream-cakes two inches in diameter, fill them with charlotte russe filling, or with apricot or other jam, and whipped cream. Cover them with icing No. 1 or 2; or fill them with cream filling flavored with coffee and cover them with icing No. 1 made with coffee. CREAM-CAKES WITH JAM AND WHIPPED CREAM Make cream-cakes one to one and a half inches across. Open and spread the inside with apricot or any jam, and then fill them with whipped cream. Boil a little sugar and water to the crack ; that is, until a little of the boiling sugar dropped into water will be brittle enough to break with a snap. Pour this over the cakes, and sprinkle them with chopped blanched almonds. LITTLE CREAM-CAKES WITH CARAMEL ICING Make cream-cakes of one inch diameter. Fill them with cream filling, and cover them with sugar boiled to the crack, as directed above. Place each one in a little paper box with other fancy cakes. MERINGUE MUSHROOMS Place meringue mixture (see page 150) in a pastry-bag with a plain tube, and press it through into shapes like mush- room caps. This is done by holding the tube still until 190 LUNCHEONS enough of the egg is pressed through to form a cap of the size desired and high in the center. With a wet knife lightly press down the point left by the tube, and, if necessary, smooth the whole top. On another paper make forms resem- bling mushroom stems, and with a wet knife flatten the tops. Place all in a cool oven for a few minutes to form a crust, but do not let them color. When a little firm place them on the hot shelf to dry. Sprinkle the tops of the caps with powdered cocoa, and with the finger darken an edge around the fiat under surface to represent the gills of a mushroom. Moisten the tops of the stems with white of egg and stick them on the caps. COCOANUT MERINGUES Place meringue mixture (page 150) in a pastry-bag with plain tube of one-half inch opening, and press it through on to paper in pieces about three inches long. Cut the meringue from the tube to give clean ends. Sprinkle the tops with as much grated cocoanut as will adhere. Desiccated cocoanut can be used. Place in a moderate oven to color it lightly, then remove to the hot shelf of the range to dry. These meringues are also pretty if pressed through a star- tube into rings. GALETTES Roll puff-paste trimmings as thin as possible. Stamp it all over with some rough surface which will pierce the paste (a wooden meat-pounder was used for those in illustration). Then cut with a plain biscuit-cutter into round or oblong shapes. Lay these on a baking-sheet, paint the tops all over evenly with egg, and sprinkle them with powdered sugar. Bake in a medium oven until lightly colored. Every scrap of paste can be utilized for these cakes, which are very nice with ice-cream or for afternoon tea-cakes. NO. 184. COCOANUT MERINGUES. NO. 185. G ALETTES. LOAF CAKES — SMALL CAKES — FANCY CAKES 191 There is a utensil for making these cakes, but it is too ex- pensive for general use. It is a metal plate with raised pattern, and over this the thin paste is rolled. PASTRY FINGERS Koll puff-paste to one-eighth inch thickness. Cut it into strips one inch wide and three inches long. Spread one half of the strips with a thin layer of any kind of jam, and cover with the remaining strips, making sandwich-like pieces. Bake in a hot oven for ten minutes, or until done, then paint the tops with white of egg and sprinkle with powdered sugar and chopped blanched almonds. Return to the oven to glaze and slightly color the nuts. If not used at once place the fingers in the oven a few min- utes to freshen them before serving. ICINGS No. 1. Using confectioners' sugar. This is XXXX sugar, and is exceedingly fine. Mix confectioners' sugar with enough water to make it spread evenly. A little flavoring of any kind may be put in the water, but is not necessary. This makes a soft, clear icing, which is very nice and is the easiest of all icings to prepare and handle. For orange icing. Use strained orange juice instead of water, or soak the grated peel in hot water for a little while, and then strain it through a cloth and use the water. For yellow icing. Dilute the yolk of an egg with a little water, and flavor with mandarin orange extract. 192 LUNCHEONS For pistache icing. Color the water with green color- ing paste, and flavor it with one teaspoonful of or- ange-flower water and one quarter teaspoonful of bitter-almond extract. For pink icing. Use strawberry juice, or color water with a little cochineal. For wine-cakes. Use sherry instead of water. No. 2. Hard, white icing. Take the unbeaten white of an egg, dilute it with a very little water and flavor it. Stir in powdered sugar until it is of the consistency to spread. This makes a hard, white icing. No. 3. Boiled icing. Put a cupful of granulated sugar and a half cupful of hot water into a saucepan and stir until the sugar is dissolved, then let it boil without stirring until it threads or, if dropped into water, it can be taken up and rolled between the fingers into a soft ball. Remove it from the fire and stir until it slightly clouds, then immediately pour it over the cake. This makes a clear icing, and is a good coloring for cakes which are to be decorated, as it gives, with the decorating icing, two colors. No. 4. Boiled icing, No. 2. Cook, without stirring, after the sugar is dissolved, one cupful of granulated sugar and one quarter cupful of hot water until it threads, then pour it slowly over the whipped white of one egg. Beat the mixture all the time, and until it is cool enough to spread. LOAF CAKES — SMALL CAKES — FANCY CAKES 193 No. 5. Maple icing. Boil to the thread or soft-ball stage a cupful of maple sugar with a quarter of a cupful of hot water to dissolve it, or use maple syrup. Pour it slowly over the whipped white of one egg as in No. 4. No. 6. Caramel icing. Boil a cupful of granulated sugar, a half cupful of milk, and a teaspoonful of butter to the thread or soft-ball stage. Flavor with a few drops of vanilla and stir until it begins to grain. No. 7. Crystal icing. Spread any icing over a cake,' and while it is still moist sprinkle over it the coarse grains of granulated sugar obtained by sifting. No. 8. Powdered sugar. Moisten with a brush the surface of a cake with the white of an egg diluted with a tablespoonful of water and stirred just enough to break the stringiness; then dust it thickly with pow- dered sugar, using a sifter. After the egg has dried, shake off the sugar that does not adhere. No. 9. Whipped cream. Flavor a half pint of cream with a few drops of vanilla and whip it until it is stiff and dry. Just before serving the cake ornament it with the whipped cream pressed through a pastry-bag and star-tube. This cream is used with strawberry cake and with molasses gingerbread. No. 10. Whipped cream with maple flavor. Heat two table- spoonfuls of maple syrup and dissolve in it one tea- spoonful of granulated gelatine which has been soaked in a tablespoonful of cold water. Let the 194 LUNCHEONS syrup cool so it will not heat the cream, but before it sets stir it into a half pint of cream. Whip the cream to a stiff froth and press it through a pastry- bag and tube on to the cake in an ornamental pat- tern. No. 11. Butter. Whip a half pound of butter until it is smooth and light, sweeten it with thick sugar syrup flavored, and add a level tablespoonful of corn- starch. Press it through a pastry-bag and tube on to the cake in ornamental designs. No. 12. Mocha cream. Whip half a pound of butter, using a fork, until it is smooth and light. Flavor it with syrup made of a half cupful of sugar and a quar- ter cupful of strong coffee. Add a level tablespoon- ful of cornstarch to give the butter more stability. Press it through a pastry-bag and tube. No. 13. Chocolate icing, No. 1. Dissolve one and a half ounces of unsweetened chocolate in one third cupful of cream or milk, and add half a teaspoonful of butter. When this mixture is a little cool add the beaten yolk of one egg, one half teaspoonful of vanilla, and enough confectioners' sugar to make it spread. No. 14. Chocolate icing, No. 2. Melt two ounces of unsweet- ened chocolate on a hot pan, remove it from the fire, and add half a cupful of sugar, one teaspoonful of butter, and lastly a quarter cupful of milk. Re- place it on the fire and cook until a little dropped into water will form a soft ball. Pour it over the cake. LOAF CAKES — SMALL CAKES — FANCY CAKES 195 No. 15. Tutti frutti icing. Cook a cupful of sugar and a quarter cupful of water to the thread or soft-ball stage. Turn it slowly on to the whipped white of one egg. Beat them together and add a tablespoon- ful each of chopped blanched almonds, citron cut in small pieces, seeded raisins, candied cherries cut into pieces, and angelica cut into bits. Spread it roughly over the cake. Any combination of fruits may be used instead of those given above. As this is a rich icing, it should be used on a plain cake, such as cup- or sponge-cake. No. 16. Decorating icing. Whip the whites of two eggs to a very stiff froth, then add slowly powdered sugar until the mixture is so stiff that every point and thread left by the beater will hold its place. It re- quires beating a long time. It is the same as me- ringue mixture, except that it is made hard with sugar instead of by drying, and takes about a half cupful of sugar to each egg. Note. — Sprinkle a cake that is going to be frosted with flour as soon as it is taken from the pan. Before icing, wipe off the flour. This prevents the icing from running so much, and makes it easier to spread. Note. — Smooth icings with the broad side of a wet knife. Wipe the blade clean, and dip it in water each time it is drawn over the icing. In this way very rough surfaces can be smoothed. Note. — Icing left over will keep any length of time, if ex- cluded from the air and not allowed to dry. Put it in a cup, cover the cup with a wet cloth, double sev- eral times, and cover the cloth with a saucer. Note.— For other icings and directions, see "Century Cook Book," page 483. Chapter XIV BREADS BREADS Stirred Bread Water Bread Whole Wheat Bread Unleavened Bread-chips Scotch Oat-cakes Pulled Bread Lace Toast or Zwieback Swiss Bolls Luncheon or Dinner Eolls, Braids, Twists Striped Bread and Butter Checkered Bread and Butter Sandwiches, Bread and Butter Sandwiches, Eolled or Motto Sandwiches, Lettuce Sandwiches : Cucumber, Egg, Cheese, Watercress, Pate de Foie Gras, Chicken, Fish or Meat, Nasturtium Flowers, Ol- ives, Nuts, Jam or Jellies Sandwiches, Toasted Cheese Brioche Corn-muffins Cheese-crackers STIRRED BREAD 1^ quarts of water, 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar, 1 tablespoonful of butter, lard, or cottolene, 1 tablespoonful of salt, 1 cake of compressed yeast. Flour enough to make a thick batter, or about two and three-quarter quarts. This quantity of material will make three loaves. Have the water warm, not hot. Stir into the water the sugar, salt, softened butter, and the yeast, which has been dissolved in a tablespoonful of water (yeast is more easily dissolved in a small quantity of water), then stir in enough flour to make a batter as thick as can be stirred easily. Stir and beat the batter well for about ten minutes. Cover the bread-pan and set it in a warm place (eighty degrees is the right temperature). When the dough is light, or about double its bulk, stir it down, and beat it well for a few min- utes. Let it rise a second time, and again beat it, then turn it into the pans, filling them half full. The tops of the loaves can be made smooth by brushing them with a pastry- brush dipped in water. The stirring gives a fine texture. The dough rises quickly after the first rising, and must be watched that it does not get light enough to sour. Let the loaves rise in the baking- pans to double in size, then bake in a hot oven for one hour. Bread made in this way is very light and spongy, and is much better than that which is made so thick with flour 199 200 LUNCHEONS that it can be kneaded. It has also the other advantages of being easier to make, the results are more reliable, and the objection of too much handling is removed. It requires an experienced hand to knead bread without making it too heavy with flour. WATER BREAD 2^ quarts of flour, 1 quart of water, 1 tablespoonful of salt, 1| cakes of compressed yeast. Place the flour on the hot shelf to get thoroughly warm. Let it be warm to the hand. Dissolve the yeast in a table- spoonful of water, and add it, with the salt, to a quart of warm water. Turn the liquid into the flour, reserving enough flour to use on the molding-board. Mix it thoroughly. Turn it on to the board and form it into well-shaped loaves. This quantity of material will make three loaves. Let it rise in the pans to double in size, which will take about one and a half hours. Bake for one hour. This bread is made in about three hours. It is the most simple receipt possible, and gives excellent results. Some judgment must be used about the quantity of flour, as it takes a little more or less according to its dryness. WHOLE WHEAT BREAD 2| quarts of whole wheat flour, 1 teaspoonful of salt, ■J cupful of molasses or of sugar, ^ cake of compressed yeast, About 1 quart of water. Add the salt to the water. Mix the molasses with part of the water and with the yeast, which has been dissolved in a NO. 186. BREAD-PAN WITH CLOSE-FITTING COVEU. The cover excludes the air from the dough, so no crust forms while it is rising. NO. 187. STIRRED BREAD. NO. 188. WATER BREAD. NO. 189. ROUND LOAF AND BAKING TIN. NO. 190. 1. UNLEAVENKD BREAD CHIPS. 2. SCOTCH OAT-CAKES. BKEADS 201 little water. Stir the liquid into the flour, and add enough more water to make a thick batter. Beat it for some time, or until it is well mixed and the batter is smooth. Let it rise overnight. Early in the morning stir it down, and turn it into the pans. Let it rise in the pans to double in size, and bake for one hour. The above quantities will make two loaves. ROUND LOAF AND BAKING TIN Any bread mixture may be baked in this pan. The fancy form is its only recommendation. Round slices are attractive for a change, and made into toast give also an agreeable A^ariety. The pan is filled barely half full of dough. It is left to rise for one hour, and is baked for one hour. UNLEAVENED BREAD-CHIPS Mix into a quart of graham, or of white, or of whole wheat flour one tablespoonful of butter and one level tablespoon- ful of salt, then add about one and a quarter cupfuls of milk and water, half and half, or enough to make a stiff dough. Flour the molding-board and roll the mixture thin, fold it together twice and roll it again. Again fold it, and again roll it very thin. Mark it off, using a pastry-wheel, into strips one quarter of an inch wide and four to five inches long. Bake it in a moderate oven for twenty minutes, or until the chips are cooked through and are brittle, but not very brown. This bread is recommended for dyspeptics and people of delicate digestion, on the theory that the yeast-plant is not thoroughly destroyed when baking bread, and that it con- tinues to ferment in the stomach. 202 LUNCHEONS SCOTCH OAT-CAKES These cakes should be made of meal ground finer than any we are able to get in our markets ; therefore, one must resort to the expedient of pounding in a mortar the finest meal obtainable, and sifting it through a coarse mesh. Add to one cupful of fine meal one teaspoonful of salt and enough hot water to make a stiff dough. Sift some of the meal on to the molding-board, and roll the mixture into a thin cake. Bake it slowly on a griddle until it is thoroughly dried. PULLED BREAD Take a loaf of freshly baked bread. Cut through the crust around the loaf at intervals of two inches, then pull the thick slices apart. Remove the crumb from the crusts, leav- ing it in ragged pieces. Place it in a slow oven to color and crisp, turning it often enough to have it dry and color on every side. THE BREAD-CUTTER The bread-plane can be adjusted to cut slices of any thick- ness. It will cut fresh bread very thin. Bread which is a day old it will cut as thin as lace. For cutting bread for sandwiches it is especially useful. LACE TOAST OR ZWIEBACK Use stale bread, and with the bread-plane shave off slices as thin as lace. Spread the slices on pans and place them in the oven for a minute to brown, or place them on a toaster on top of the range. It will take but a minute for them to dry and take an even light-golden color. NO. 191. PULLED BREAD. NO. 192. BREAD-PLANE. NO. 193. LACE TOAST OK ZWIEBACK. NO. 194. SWISS KOLLS IN THE DOUGH. NO. 195. SWISS ROLLS BAKED. NO. 196. LUNCHEON OK DINNER UOLLS AND BKAIDS IN THE DOL'GII. BREADS 203 This toast can be served with soup, or at any time in place of cracker biscuits. It is a form of toast much liked by peo- ple who do not eat starchy foods and so abstain from bread. SWISS ROLLS Scald one cupful of milk to which have been added one tablespoonful of sugar and two tablespoonfuls of butter. When it has partly cooled add one half a cake of compressed yeast. Stir in well about three quarters of a quart of flour. Put it in a moderately warm place to rise. When it is light, place it in the ice-box for at least three hours, or over- night. When ready to use, turn the raised dough on a well- floured board, and roll it to a half-inch thickness. Spread the top with butter, and roll the sheet of dough like a jelly- cake roll. See illustration No. 194. Cut from the end of the roll slices three quarters of an inch in thickness. Place the slices in pans, leaving plenty of room between each one, so they will not touch in rising. Let them rise slowly until they are very light, and more than doubled in size. Bake in a quick oven about twenty minutes. LUNCHEON OR DINNER ROLLS, BRAIDS, TWISTS For these rolls, any bread dough may be used. In order to get the pieces of uniform size, mold the dough into a roll about one and a half inches in diameter. Cut the roll into pieces one and a half inches long, giving pieces the size of an egg, or make the pieces larger, if desired. Turn each piece into a ball, and then, using both hands, roll it into shape, making a roll which is thick in the center and pointed at each end. See illustration No. 196. Place the rolls in pans, giving them sufficient room to rise without touching. When they have a little more than doubled in size, brush the tops with beaten egg diluted with 204 LUNCHEONS a little milk. Bake them in a quick oven for fifteen or twenty minutes. For making braids, roll the dough into pencil-shaped pieces about half an inch in diameter and five inches long. Brush each one with melted butter. Press the ends of three pieces together and braid them. Let them rise to double in size, brush the tops with egg and milk, and bake for fifteen to twenty minutes. Twists are made the same as braids, using two instead of three pieces of dough. STRIPED BREAD AND BUTTER For First Course v^ith Oysters and Clams on the Half Shell, For Fish and Salad Courses, also for Afternoon Tea Cut white and any kind of brown bread into slices from three eighths to half an inch in thickness. Spread each slice generously with butter which is soft enough to spread easily. Lay the slices together in alternating colors, two buttered sides coming together in each layer. Wlien the pile of but- tered slices is three and a half to four inches high, cut it into good shape, removing the crusts. Place the bread between two plates under a light weight and set it into the ice-box to harden the butter. Wlien ready to serve, cut it into slices about as thick as the original slices, and then into strips. CHECKERED BREAD AND BUTTER Cut, one inch thick, three slices each of white and of brown bread. Spread a slice of the white bread with a thick layer of soft butter. Lay on it a buttered slice of brown bread, placing the buttered sides together. Cover the top of the brown slice with butter, and lay on it a buttered slice BREADS 205 of white bread, the buttered sides together. You have now three layers of bread, with the brown slice in the middle. Repeat the operation, reversing the order of the white and brown slices. Trim the two piles evenly, and place them in the ice-box under a light pressure. When the butter is well hardened, cut slices an inch thick from the ends of both piles. Butter these slices as before, placing two buttered sides together, and arrange them so that the colors will al- ternate in squares. The hardened butter holds the pieces together, and if the slices are evenly cut, a checkered square of bread will be the result. Put the bread and butter under a light pressure in the ice- box, and when ready to serve cut it into thin slices. BREAD AND BUTTER SANDWICHES It is difficult to butter very thin slices of bread unless the butter is soft. It is well, when making plain bread and butter sandwiches, to whip the butter until it is light, soft, and smooth, and then to spread but one piece of the sandwich. Where filling is used it is not necessary to butter the bread, as oil or butter is used in the paste. No. 1. In circles with nuts. Thin slices of buttered Boston brown bread, or of graham bread, cut with a biscuit- cutter into circles one and a half inches in diameter. The meat of one half of an English walnut is placed on the top of each one and held in place with a little butter. No. 2. Brown and white bread combined. Cut into circles two and a half inches or less in diameter thin slices of brown and white bread. Use a buttered round of brown and of white bread for each sandwich. 206 LUNCHEONS ROLLED OR MOTTO SANDWICHES For rolled sandwiches the bread should be very fresh and moist, and entirely free from crust. As it is difficult to cut fresh bread with a knife, use a loaf which is a day old if a bread-plane is not at hand. Cut it into slices one eighth of an inch thick, using a sharp knife. It will cut easier if the crust is first removed from the loaf. Arrange the slices in a pile and cut them all together into good shape. Wrap the bread in a wet cloth and let it stand in a cool place for two hours. The bread will then be moist and pliable enough to roll without breaking. The slices may be simply buttered, or they may be spread with any mixture desired. If meat or fish is used, it should be reduced to paste by chopping and pounding, and be well seasoned. (See "Century Cook Book," page 364.) Use some butter or oil in the mixture, so the slices will not need to be buttered. Spread the slices with the paste and roll them carefully, then roll each one in a piece of paraffin paper, cut long enough to wrap the sandwich one and a half times, and wide enough to extend an inch over each end. Twist the ends of the paper. Keep the sandwiches in the ice-box until ready to use, and serve them with the papers on. Wrapped sandwiches will keep fresh for forty-eight hours. They are especially suita- ble for travelers and for picnics. LETTUCE SANDWICHES Cut fresh bread into slices a little more than one eighth of an inch in thickness, using the bread-plane if convenient. Arrange the slices in a pile, and cut the bread into a shape about four by four and a half inches. This removes the crusts and leaves all the slices of exactly the same size. Uni- formity in size and shape is one of the points to observe in making sandwiches. Spread the slices lightly with butter NO. 197. LUNCHEON OR DINNER ROLLS AND TWISTS BAKED. NO. 198. SODA BISCUITS CUT WITH FLUTED STAMP. KO. 199. STRIPED BREAD AND BUTTER. NO. 200. CHKCKERED BREAD AND BUTTER. NO. 201. BREAD AND BUTTER SANDWICHE.S. 1. CIRCLES OF BROWN BREAD WITH NUTS. 2. CIRCLES OF BROWN AND WHITE BREAD COMBINED. NO. 202. 1. LETTUCE SANDWICHES. 2. ROLLED OR MOTTO SANDWICHES. BREADS 207 which is soft enough to spread evenly without tearing the bread. Place on each buttered slice a leaf of crisp lettuce which is large enough to extend a little over the ends of the slice, and from which the midrib has been removed. Sprinkle the lettuce plentifully with salt. Roll the slices carefully, and tie around each one a piece of paper the width of the bread. At the time of serving, this paper is removed and the butter will then be sufficiently hardened to keep the rolls in shape. Place the sandwiches on a plate, cover them with a wet napkin, and keep them in a cool place until ready to serve. In this way sandwiches may be kept fresh for twenty-four hours. SANDWICH FILLINGS Chicken and celery. Chop chicken and celery in equal quantities until they are very fine. Mix them to a paste with mayonnaise. Egg filling. Chop hard-boiled eggs until very fine and mix them to a paste with plain French dressing, or with mayon- naise. Ham filling. Put in a saucepan two tablespoonfuls of but- ter, one teaspoonful of mustard, one teaspoonful of sugar, and the yolks of two eggs. Beat them together, and add slowly, stirring all the time, three quarters of a cupful of hot vinegar. Place it on the fire and stir until the mixture is a little thickened, then add one cupful of minced ham and two thirds of a cupful of tender celery, also chopped very fine. Add salt and pepper to taste. This preparation can be kept, to use as needed, if put into preserve glasses and covered with melted butter or lard. 208 LUNCHEONS SANDWICHES Made of Cucumber, Egg, Cheese, Watercress, Pate DE FoiE Gras, Chicken, Fish or Meats, Nasturtium Flowers, Olives, Nuts, Jams or Jellies Cut the bread into slices one eighth of an inch thick, and remove the crust as directed above. The filling of a sand- wich should be as thick as one of the slices of bread. After the sandwiches are prepared, using the whole slices, cut them into the shapes desired. This may be small squares, fingers, triangles, circles, or hearts, as the fancy or occasion dictates. Where a variety of sandwiches are being served at the same time, each variety should be cut alike, but of a different pattern from the others, and the dish garnished distinctively. For instance, a hard-boiled egg cut lengthwise, a square of cheese, a few olives, nuts, flowers, or whatever the filling used, can be placed in the center of the plate, and the sand- wiches arranged in a circle around it. A wishbone makes a good label for chicken, and parsley or gherkins would indicate meat mixtures. The brown breads make excellent sandwiches, and help to give variety. Cucumbers sliced, and watercress freed from the large stems, may be mixed with French dressing before being placed in the bread, or they may be only salted. Nasturtium flowers require no seasoning. Olives and nuts are sliced or cut into small pieces, but should not be cut very fine, as it injures their flavor. Cheese may be sliced or grated. See ''Century Cook Book," page 364, for further direc- tions about mixtures for fillings. When the sandwiches are finished they should be placed between plates under a light weight, covered with a damp cloth, and kept in a cool place until the time of serving. NO. 203. SANDWICHES. 1. ROLLED SANDWICHES FILLED WITH STRIPS OF CELERY. 2. HEART-SHAPED SANDWICHES FILLED WITH CHOPPED GREEN PEPPERS AND MAYONNAISE. 3. HAM SANDWICHES CUT TO THE SHAPE OF PLAYING-CARDS AND DECORATED WITH PICKLED BEETS TO IMITATE THE THREE AND FOUR SPOTS OF HEARTS AND CLUBS. 4. CHICKEN SANDWICHES STAMPED WITH CLUB- AND SPADE-SHAPED CUTTERS. Nos. 3 and 4 are novelties to serve at card-parties. NO. 204. SANDWICHES OF VARIOUS SHAPEl^ so. 205. TOASTED CHEESE SANDWICHES. NO. 206. LOAF OF BRIOCHE. BREADS 209 Sandwiches prepared for a traveler's luncheon should He made a little thicker and larger than directed above, as they must be hearty enough to constitute a meal. If wrapped in paraffin paper, they will keep fresh for a long time. TOASTED CHEESE SANDWICHES Make a filling of grated cheese, toast the sandwiches on both sides, and serve them hot. Many kinds of sandwiches may be toasted. Sandwiches left over may be utilized in this way. BRIOCHE Brioche is a light bun. The mixture is also used for sav- arins and babas. See page 147. Make a leaven as follows: Add to a cupful of tepid milk a yeast-cake and half a pound of flour. Mix it well and set it in a warm place to rise until it is very light. It will take about an hour. Sift on to a rolling-board one pound of flour, and make a M^ell in the center. Break seven eggs into a bowl, add a teaspoonf ul of salt, and beat the eggs enough to break them thoroughly. Cut three quarters of a pound of butter into pieces. Put three tablespoonfuls of milk and two tablespoonfuls of sugar into the well of flour, add a piece of butter and some of the broken eggs. Work all these together with the hand, incorporating the flour gradually. Add the eggs and butter gradually until all are worked in, and continue the working for some time, then add the leaven and work the whole mix- ture for a long time, or until it does not stick. Set it aside to rise and double in size, work it again, and put it in the ice-box for twelve hours. 210 LUNCHEONS TO MAKE A LOAF OF BRIOCHE Mold the brioche dough into a round ball. Place it in a pan, make a depression in the top with the hand, brush it with egg diluted with a little milk, and put into it a small ball of dough. Cut slits around the large ball. Let it rise, then bake it in a hot oven. CORN-MUFFINS I5 cupfuls of white flour, I5 cupfuls of yellow meal, 1 cupful of sugar, 2 cupfuls of milk, 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, 1 tablespoonful of salt, 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, 2 eggs. Put a cupful of milk in a saucepan on the fire and let it come to the scalding-point, then stir in the corn-meal, and continue to stir until the meal is thoroughly expanded. If a coarse meal is used, it should cook for a few minutes to destroy the grainy texture. Remove the meal from the fire and stir into it the butter and the sugar. Let it stand until cool, then add the rest of the milk, the eggs, which have been beaten (yolks and whites together), the salt, and lastly the flour, which has been thoroughly mixed with the baking- powder by sifting. Stir the mixture to smoothness and turn it into well-buttered gem-pans. Bake in a moderate oven for about forty-five minutes. Corn-meal should be thoroughly cooked, and the baking can be continued until the muffins draw away from the sides of the pans. The baking should be slow at first, so the muffins will rise evenly, giving a flat top. This quantity of mixture will make one dozen large muffins. XO. 207. CORNMEAL MUFFINS. NO. 208. CHKESE-CRA.CKEKS. BREADS 211 The receipt may be modified by using less sugar or less butter, or by changing the proportions of meal and flour. CHEESE-CRACKERS Spread any biscuits with butter, and put them in the oven to brown slightly. As soon as they are removed from the oven cover them with grated cheese, let them stand a few minutes, then shake off all the cheese that does not stick. Saltine biscuits are especially good to use with cheese. INDEX INDEX Anchovy canapes, 41 Eggs, 40 Apple and celery salad, 121 Apple pudding, jellied, 146 Apple salad, individual, 122 Apples, baked, 141 Eichelieu, 140 Stewed, No. 1, 140 No. 2, 141 Apricots, compote of, 142 Water-ice, 170 Aspic of chicken, 125 Of pate de foie gras, 126 Of vegetables, 120 B Babas, 147 Baked apples, 141 Bananas, 138 Fillets of fish with sauce, 66 Hominy, 96 Mushrooms, 79 Quinces, 138 Sweetbreads, 73 Tomatoes and f outage cups. Bananas, baked, No. 1, 138 No. 2, 138 And cream, 143 Sauted, 138 Bavarian cream sliced and gar- nished with cream-cakes, 153 Bean croquettes, 98 Beaten omelet, 52 Beef consomme, 45 Casserole, 85 Boiled ham, No. 1, 128 No. 2, 128 Icing, 192 Lettuce, 96 Boned ham, 129 Braids, 203 Brandy peaches, 109 Bread braids, 203 Bread and butter, checkered, 204 Sandwiches, brown and white combined, 205 Sandwiches in circles with nuts, 205 Sandwiches, remarks about, 205 Striped, 204 Bread-cutter, 202 Bread and jam tartlets, 143 Pulled, 202 Eound loaf of, 201 Stirred, 199 81 Twists, 203 Unleavened, 201 Water, 200 Whole wheat, 200 Brioche, 209 215 216 INDEX Brioche, loaf of, 210 Kemarks about, 209 To make, 209 Broiled lobster, 63 Quails, 115 Shad roe, 64 Smelts, 64 Tomatoes, 97 Browned sauce, 102 Burning cherries, 140 Peaches, 140 Butter, maitre d 'hotel, 104 Ways of preparing, 31 Icing, 94 C Cabbage salad, 122 Cafe frappe, 171 Cake, cocoanut, 182 Cake-basket holding meringue mushrooms, 185 Cake, chocolate, 182 Decorated in two shades of white, 184 With candied rose-leaves, 185 With pink bow-knot, 184 With tutti fr>- icing, 195 With candied violets, 185 Gingerbread, 179 With chocolate glaze, 179 With icing and preserved ginger, 180 With whipped cream, 180 Jelly-roll, 185 Orange, in crescents, 181 In layers, 181 No. 2, or plain cup, 181 Strawberry, No. 1, 162 No. 2, 162 Cakes, cream, how to make, 188 Iced, 189 Cakes, cherry, 187 Cup, 181 Decorated with flower design, 186 Daisy, 186 Domino, 187 Hemispheres, 187 Marble, 187 Meringue mushrooms, 189 Meringues, cocoanut, 190 Pastry fingers, 191 With medallion of fruit, 186 Calf's brains a I'aurore, 75 A la poulette, 75 To prepare, 75 With black butter, 76 AVith hollandaise, 76 Canapes, anchovy, 41 Of caviare, 41 Of salmon, 40 Caramel icing, 193 Casserole of beef, 85 Of chicken. No. 1, 99 No. 2, 99 Celery, cream of, 48 Sandwiches, 207 Charlotte russe, strawberry. No. 1, 150 No. 2, 150 Checkered bread and butter, 204 Cheese-crackers, 211 Cheese, cream, with Bar-le-duc currants, 131 Croquettes, 109 Patties, 110 Sandwiches, toasted, 209 Cherries, 176 Burning, 140 Cherry-cakes, 187 Chestnut bavarian, 149 Puree, 148 INDEX 217 Chestnut salad, 124 Chicken aspic, 125 Casserole, 99 Consomme, 46 En surprise, 101 Fried in cream, 100 Joints, 100 Mousse, 126 Salad, 123 Smothered, 100 Timbales, 77 Chocolate bread pudding, 136 Cake, 182 Cream, 153 Icing, 194 Sauce for ice cream, 167 Sponge, 153 Clam broth, 46 Bisque, 46 Cocktails, 39 Clams, cream of, 47 On the half shell, 41 Cocoanut-cake, 182 Cocoanut cream-cake, 183 Meringues, 190 Pie, 160 Pudding, 136 Coffee mousse, 147 Cold cut meats, 127 Cold fish, garnished, 129 Halibut, 191 Cornmeal mufSns, 210 Cold dishes, 20 Service, 125 Slaw, 61 Compote of apricots, 142 Of figs, 142 Of pears, 142 Consomme of beef, 45 Of chicken, 46 Coquilles of sweetbreads, 74 Cornstarch puddings, 144 Cottage pie, 90 Cranberry pie, 160 Cream-cakes, 188 How to make, 188 Iced, 189 Little, with caramel icing, 189 With jam and whipped cream, 189 Cream cheese with Bar-le-duc cur- rants, 131 Dressing, 116 Cream of celery, 48 Of clams, 47 Of oysters, 47 Of spinach, 48 Creamed egg baskets, 54 Fish garnished with potatoes, 67 Lobster, 63 Poached eggs, 54 Croquettes, 76 Of beans, 98 Of cheese, 109 Of farina, 135 Of shad roe, 64 Crystal icing, 193 Cup-cake, 181 Cup-cakes with flower design, 186 Currant pie, 160 Shortcake, 162 Currants, 38 Frosted, 38 On individual plates, 38 D Daisy cakes, 186 Dinner rolls, 203 Dishing and garnishing, 7 Domino cakes, 187 Dressing, cream, 116 218 INDEX Dressing, French, 115 Mayonnaise, 116 E Eggs, anchovy, 40 A I'aurore, 57 A la Eomaine, 53 Baked in green peppers, 53 In tomatoes, 53 Earci, No. 1, 56 No. 2, 56 In nests, 55 Poached and creamed, 54 Remarks about, 51 Scrambled with tomatoes, 54 Spanish, 56 To poach, 51 In French style, 51 To scramble, 51 With giblet sauce, 57 Entrees, 69 Farina croquettes, 135 Fig pudding, 136 Figs, compote of, 142 Fillets of beef, remarks about, 85 With tomatoes, 86 And mushrooms, 87 Fillets of fish, baked, 66 Fried, 65 Eemarks about, 65 With mushrooms, 67 Fillets of flounder, 65 FiUings for sandwiches, 207 Fish a la Japonnaise, 67 Cold, 129 Creamed and garnished with po- tatoes, 67 Cutlets, cold, 130 Fish, halibut, cold, 131 In the garden, 130 Fontage cups, 30 Forcemeat, 101 Frangipane tartlets, 158 French dressing, 115 Omelet, 52 Fried fillets of fish, 65 Oysters with cold slaw, 61 ScaUops, 62 Frosted currants, 38 Frozen punches, 109 Fruit souffles, 139 Tartlets, 159 Fruits, cherries, 176 Currants, 38 Pears, 176 Pineapples, 175 Salpicon of, 37 G Galettes, 190 Garnishing, 7 Garnished cold fish, 129 Gingerbread with chocolate glaze, 179 With icing and preserved ginger, 180 With whipped cream, 180 Glaze, 104 Glazed tongue, 127 Gnocchi a la Franqaise, 111 k ritalienne, 110 X la Eomaine, 110 Grape-fruit in glasses, 37 Green-gage pudding, 137 Green pepper sandwiches, 208 H Ham, boiled, 128 Boned, 129 And eggs, minced, 92 INDEX 219 Hard sauce, 105 Hemisphere cakes, 187 Hollandaise sauce, 103 Horseradish sauce, 88 Huckleberry pudding, 135 Ice cream, peach, 169 Melon, 168 Plain, 167 Strawberry, 168 Icing, boiled, 192 Butter, 194 Caramel, 193 Chocolate, 194 Confectioners' sugar, 191 Orange, 191 Pink, 192 Pistache, 192 Wine, 192 Yellow, 191 Crystal, 193 Mocha cream, 194 Powdered sugar, 193 Tutti frutti, 195 Whipped cream, 193 With maple sugar, 193 Individual currants, 38 Pineapple, 38 Jalousies, 159 Jam tart, 157 Jardiniere, 81 Jellied cutlets, 130 Jelly-roll, 185 Lace toast, 202 Leg of mutton a la jardiniere, 89 Slices a la jardiniere, 90 Lemon water-ice, 169 Lettuce, boiled, 96 And nasturtium salad, 118 Sandwiches, 206 Liquid sauces, 105 Liver loaf or timbale, 127 TLmbales, 78 Lobster, broiled, 63 Creamed, 63 M Macedoine water-ice, 171 Maitre d 'hotel butter, 103 Maple icing, 193 Sauce for ice cream, 168 Marble cakes, 187 Mayonnaise dressing, 116 Measures and terms, 32 Meat and potato pie, 91 Sauces, 102 Meats, cold, 127 Medallion cakes, 186 Melon ice cream, 168 Meringue cream tart, 152 Crown, 152 Mushrooms, 189 Eing, 151 Meringues filled with whipped cream or ice cream, 153 How to make, 150 Minced ham and eggs, 92 Meat with potato rings, 91 Mocha cream icing, 194 Motto sandwiches, 206 Mousse, chicken, 126 Coffee, 147 Peach, 148 Muffins, cornmeal, 210 Mushrooms, baked, 79 Of meringue, 189 Stuffed, 79 220 INDEX Muskmelon, 39 Mutton chops a la soubise, 87 Boned, with artichokes, 88 With mushrooms, 89 With horseradish sauce, 88 Omelet, beaten, 52 Chasseur, 53 Plain French, 52 Orange-cake in crescents, 181 In layers, 181 Orange icing, 191 Water-ice, 170 Oranges, 37 Oyster cocktails, 39 Oysters a la Newburg, 62 Cream of, 47 Fried, with cold slaw, 61 On the half shell, 41 Sauted, 61 Panned chicken, 100 Pastry-bag, 30 Pastry fingers, 191 Burning, 140 Peaches, brandy, 109 And cream, 143 Peach ice cream, 169 Mousse, 148 Pudding, 145 Pears, 176 Compote of, 142 Pie, cottage, 90 Cranberry, 160 Currant, 160 Meat and potato, 91 Pineapple, Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, 175 Individual, 38 Pineapple pudding, 146 Water-ice, 170 Pine cones, 144 Pink icing, 192 Pistache icing, 192 Plain French omelet, 52 Playing-card sandwiches, 208 Poached eggs, 51 In French style, 51 With greens, 55 Pork tenderloins with fried ap- ples, 94 Potato puree, 95 Straws, 28 Salad, 123 Potatoes, baked, 95 Mashed, 27 Puffed, 28 Pudding, chocolate bread, 136 Cocoanut, 136 Cornstarch, 144 Fig, 136 Green-gage, 137 Huckleberry, 135 Jellied apple, 146 Peach, 145 Pineapple, 146 Sauces, 105 Tapioca, 145 With prunes, 137 Puff -paste, how to make, 154 Pulled bread, 202 Punches, 109 Puree of chestnuts, 148 Q Quails, broiled, 115 Boasted, 115 Quenelles of cornmeal, 96 Quinces, baked, 138 INDEX 221 E Eemarks about bread and butter sandwiches, 205 Brioche, 209 Fillets of fish, 65 Sandwiches, 208 Scallops, 62 Soups, 45 Eice a la Milanese, 95 Eice prune pudding, 146 Eissoles, 71 Eoasted quails, 115 Eolled fillets of flounder, 65 Sandwiches, 206 Eolls, luncheon, 203 Swiss, 203 S Salad, artichoke bottoms, 119 Asparagus tips, 119 Bouquet, 118 Lettuce and tomato and eggs, 119 Cabbage, 122 Celery and apple, 121 Chestnut, 124 Chicken, 123 Cucumber and tomato, 120 Daisy, 119 Dressing, cream, 116 French, 115 Mayonnaise, 116 Fruits, 124 Lettuce and hard boiled egg, 118 Lettuce hearts, 118 Mashed potato, 123 Plain lettuce, 117 • Preparing, 116 Salad, remarks about, 117 Shad roe, 123 Tomato and green pepper, 121 Turnip cups with celery, 121 Vegetable, 120 Salpicon, 72 Of fruits in glasses, 37 On glass plate, 37 Sandwiches, bread and butter, 205 Brown and white bread, 205 Celery, 207 Fillings for, 207 Green pepper, 208 In circles with nuts, 205 Lettuce, 206 Playing-card, 208 Eemarks about, 205 Eolled or motto, 206 Toasted cheese, 209 Sauce, brown, 102 Hollandaise, 103 Horseradish,' 88 Hot chocolate, 167 Hot maple, 168 Maitre d' hotel, 103 Soubise, 87 Supreme, 102 Tomato puree, 103 White, 102 Sauted bananas, 138 Oysters, 61 Savarins, 147 Scallops, fried, 62 Eemarks about, 62 On the shell, 63 Scotch oat-cakes, 202 Scrambled eggs with brains, 58 With tomato, 54 Shad roe, broiled, 64 Croquettes, 64 Salad, 123 222 INDEX Shortcake, currant, 162 Smelts, broiled, 64 Smothered chicken, 100 Soubise sauce, 87 Souffles, fruit and others, 139 Eemarks about, 139 Strawberry, 139 Soups, remarks about, 45 Spanish eggs, 56 Spinach, 97 Cream of, 48 Squabs, 115 Stewed apples, 140 Strawberry bavarian, 150 Ice cream, 168 Souffle, 139 Tartlets, 158 Water-ice, 170 Strawberry-cake, 162 Strawberries and cream, 143 On individual plates, 38 Striped bread and butter, 204 Stuffed green peppers, 81 Mushrooms, 79 Tomatoes, 80 Stuffing for tomatoes, 80 Supreme sauce, 102 Sweetbreads, baked, 73 Coquilles of, 74 Glazed, 74 Remarks about, 73 To prepare, 73 Swiss rolls, 203 T Tartlets, bread and jam, 143 Frangipane, 158 Fruit, 159 Pine cones, 144 Strawberry, 158 Terms, 32 Timbale of liver, cold, 127 Timbales of chicken, 77 Of liver, 78 Tomato farci, 97 And green pepper salad, 121 Puree, 103 Tomatoes, baked, and fontage cups, 81 Broiled, 97 Stuffed, 80 Stuffing for, 80 Tongue, glazed, 127 Tutti frutti icing, 195 Twists, 203 IJ Unleavened bread, 201 Veal a I'ltalienne, 93 Chops, 92 Cutlets, small, 93 Grenadines of, 94 Vegetable salad, 120 Vegetables, aspic of, 120 Vegetarian dish, 82 Vol-au-vent, 71 Tapioca pudding, 145 With prunes, 137 Tart, jam, 157 Tartlet shells, how to make, 157 W Water bread, 209 Water-ice, apricot, 170 /i INDEX 223 Water-ice, lemon, 169 Macedoine, 171 Orange, 170 Pineapple, 170 Strawberry, 170 Water-ices in general, 169 Whipped cream icing, 193 White sauce, 102 Whole wheat bread, 200 Wine icing, 192 Yellow icing, 191 u