J-^-. .*'\ ■^ <. .%■■«>>. -<>Nr. .V^. .«> .X L' "".^^ <•_ •1 o ■ ^'''^ "° '''* '-"D&itizeUjDt^ the I niemet Archive .%. ''\^^^^ in 2010 with fundihg frcm ■ "^^^ ;^^ ?^\c/ \ ^^'Vl^e l-tt>rary of Congress 'J^ ^^ "^. 0° vV^^ J'^ '*bv^ "^-^ O'^ e ° • • . "•*•- ■*■ 'f'l.^'i ■'- >>- .-^ '^^S^ ^'• h\ 1 ^ PENmSULAR CALIFORNIA SOME ACCOUNT OF THE CLIMATE, SOIL, PRODUCTIONS, AND PEESENT CONDITION CHIEFLY OF THE NOETHEEN HALF OF LOWER CALIFORNIA CHARLES NORDHOFF AUTHOR OF ' CALIFORNIA : FOR HEALTH, PLEASURE, AND RESIDENCE " " GOD AND THE FUTURE LIFE ' " POLITICS FOR YOUNG AMERICANS " " CAPE COD AND ALL ALONG SHOKE " "COMMUNISTIC SOCIETIES OF THE UNITED STATES" ETC. NEW YORK HARPER & BROTHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE 1888 ,.7-> /46 Copyright, 1888, by IIarper & Brotu£RS. Alt righte reserved. P 1?. -^t ,HT2 PREFACE. I HAVE known the peninsula of Lower California, by - conversation with inhabitants and with explorers and those who had grazed cattle in it, and by the study of reports upon it, for many years. In 1881 I made a journey through the upper part of it as far as Todos Santos Bay, which abundantly confirmed all the reports I had heard of its fitness for agriculture, its sufficient water supply, and fine chmate. In the summer of 1887, in the course of a sea-voyage to La Paz, I stopped at Ensenada, and found there the headquarters of an American company which had ac- quired lands and the right to sell them to foreign col- onists and settlers — a privilege formerly denied, but granted under- recent hberal laws of Mexico. As I had for many years desired to own land in the Peninsula, being convinced of the excellence of the country and cli- mate, I selected and bought a small tract on and near the bay of Todos Santos. When this little purchase of mine became known, I received numerous letters from acquaintances and stran- gers in different parts of the United States, askmg me the grounds of my behef that Lower California is_ a de- sirable region, and inquiring also about the security of land titles and the character of the laws and govern- ment. I have concluded to pubhsh what I know about 6 PREFACE. the Peninsula ; and as before I paid for my land I made a careful and thorough examination of the International Company's franchises and charters, I have added, at the end of my little book, the results of that exammation also. When I pubhshed my book on California, sixteen years ago — in 1872 — I was generally beheved to have over-estimated the resources of that State. The event has shown that I really under-estimated them greatly. California, rich as I believed it, is far richer than I re- ported it, as everybody now knows. My knowledge of our own State has, I think, enabled me to form a just estimate of the resources of the peninsula south of it. It is a region as superficially known as was the State of California when I made my exploration of it in 1871. The northern half, of which I treat in this book, is essen- tially a part of our own southern California, and will, I beheve, some day be found to be as fruitful and as valua- ble as that. The map which accompanies this volume is made up from various sources — old explorations, the recent sur- veys of the International Company, and, as to the coasts, from the careful surveys made durmg several years by United States vessels, the Ranger chiefly, under orders of the Hydrographic Office of the Navy Department. The charts of the Peninsula and the western coast of Mexico, made by the Hydrographic Bureau from these surveys, are very full and accurate, and, as to the southern half of the Peninsula, afford almost all that is actually known of its area. Charles Nordhoff. July, 1888. CONTENTS. CHAPTEE I. PAGE HISTORICAL SUMMARY OF THE PENINSULA 11 CHAPTEE II. WHY THE PENINSULA WAS REPUTED A DESERT 21 CHAPTEE III. NATURAL WEALTH, CLIMATE, SOIL, TIMBER, WATER, ETC. ... 38 CHAPTEE IV. THE PENINSULA AND CALIFORNIA COMPARED 52 CHAPTEE Y. THE RELATION OP SETTLERS TO THE GOVERNMENT.— SPECL&.L PRIVILEGES 70 CHAPTEE YI. LAND TITLES 79 CHAPTEE YII. THE MEXICAN GOVERNMENT AND THE COMPANY ....... 92 8 CONTENTS. APPENDIX A. PAGE TABLES OF TEMPERATURE AND RAINFALL 103 APPENDIX B. THE TIMBER REGION OF THE PENINSULA 118 APPENDIX C. THE RECENT GOLD DISCOVERIES ON THE PENINSULA 124 APPENDIX D. THE 3IEXICAN TARIFF 127 ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE ONE -HUNDRED -AND THIRTY- YEAR-OLD OLIVE-TREE, ) w f ■ SANTA TOMAS \ ' ^'"""^''P'^'^ DON LUIS AGUILAR'S ANCIENT APRICOT ORCHARD 15 HOTEL ITURBIDE, ENSENADA 23 LIVE-OAKS, LA GRULLA 29 AMONG THE PINES IN THE MOUNTAINS 39 FARM-HOUSE OF SENOR GRANADO, SANTA TOMAS 53 HOME OF DON LUIS AGUILAR, SANTA TOMAS VALLEY .... 63 REAL DEL CASTILLO, SAN RAFAEL VALLEY 71 FIRST PIER, SAN QUINTIN 81 A GLIMPSE OF ROSARIO VALLEY 93 ARCH ROCK (FROM CAVE), NEAR MOUTH OF ROSARIO RIVER . . 101 IN THE EASTERN END OF BURRO CASON 131 MAPS. PENINSULAR CALIFORNIA, SHOWING THE LIMITS OF THE INTER- NATIONAL COMPANY To face page 11 PENINSULAR CALIFORNIA— SOUTHERN HALF 43 PENINSULAR CALIFORNIA. CHAPTER I. HISTORICAL SUMMARY OF THE PENINSULA. rpHE Peninsula called Lower California stretches, as -^ will be seen on the map, from Cape St. Lucas in the south, in latitude 22° 40', to the United States boundary, in latitude 32° 40'. It was first visited by Europeans in 1533, a vessel under the orders of Cortez discovering and entering a bay on the Gulf coast, supposed to have been the present La Paz. Cortez himself visited the Peninsula in 1588, anchoring in the bay of La Paz, where, one hun- dred and seventy-five years later, in 1710, another famous character, Alexander Selkirk, then saihng-master of the Dover, one of Woodes Rogers's fieet, also lay to refit. Selkhk had been taken by the Dover from the island of Juan Fernandez. After Cortez, a considerable number of Spanish expe- ditions were sent to the Peninsula. Their misfortune was that they landed on the driest, hottest, and most stormy coasts, those on the Gulf side, and on the south- ern extension of the long land-spit. The earlier mission- ary efforts were made also in this region; and all the 12 PENINSULAR CALIFORNIA. early Spanish efforts at colonization and the reduction of the country were induced mainly by the richness of the pearl-fisheries about La Paz and Ceralbo Island on the Gulf coast. The English expeditions, which landed at various points on the coast, were chiefly sent out to capt- ure Spanish galleons coming towards Mexico from Ma- nila, and later as explorers, for geographical purposes. Early in the present century a number of American traders visited the Peninsula, drawn thither by reports of the great abundance of fur seal; and several of them made extraordinarily profitable voyages. The fur seal were, however, very soon driven away or exterminated, and they are now very rare on the coasts and islands. After the settlement of Upper California, American whalemen, for many years, visited the bays and la- goons south of latitude 29°, which were frequented by great numbers of whales; but these also were either exterminated or driven off, and that business ceased to pay twenty years ago. The reputed richness of the Peninsula in minerals caused many adventurers, some with capital, others only prospectors, to try their fortunes in it; but with few exceptions these also were unsuccessful. Mining operations are of late systematically prosecuted at sev- eral points in the extreme southern section ; and north of La Paz, on the Grulf side, there are gold and silver deposits, some until lately owned by a rather notorious character, the late Mrs. E. Burdell Cunningham, which have been reputed valuable. No great fortunes have so far been made in mining in Lower Cahfornia. HISTORICAL SUMMARY OF THE PENINSULA. 13 Recently, however, under the stimukis of rapid de- velopment and settlement, there have been important mineral discoveries in the northern part of the penin- sula, gold being found in paying quantities over a con- siderable area whose southern lunit is within a hundred miles of the United States boundary line. Reports on these new mining discoveries, which have recently ap- peared in an excellent journal. The Lower Californian, pubhshed at Ensenada, and in California newspapers, will be found in an appendix. On the Gulf coast there are large deposits of sulphur, owned by the International Company of Mexico, and for the working of which preparations are making. In the Gulf, north of La Paz, hes also one of the largest and most accessible salt deposits known in the world — on Carmen Island. This is managed by Mr. James Viosca, of La Paz, an American, and United States Con- sul at that place. On the Pacific coast at San Quintin, the International Company own a salt deposit as rich as that of Carmen Island, which will soon be developed. With the rapid increase of mining operations in the western states of Mexico, both the sulphur and salt de- posits will prove very valuable. The following list of the missions of Lower Cah- fornia, compiled by Taylor, shows that the Jesuits, who began the Christianization of the Peninsula, adhered to the earlier mistake, in confining their attempts to the southern half and to the Gulf side. They thus attacked that part only which is of least value, except for pearls and mines. 14 PENINSULAR CALIFORNIA. "1. The Mission of Nuestra Senora de Loreto, found- ed by Father Jose Marie Salvatierra, October, 1697, in latitude 29° 30', on the Gulf side. " 2. Dolores del Sur, by Father Salvatierra, January, 1699, in latitude 24° 30', on the Gulf side. " 8. San Francisco de Yigge, by Father Francisco M. Piccoli, March, 1699, in latitude 25° 30', in the interior, towards the Gulf. "4. Santa Rosaha de Moliege, by Father Juan M. Basualda, in 1705, in latitude 26° 50', on the Gulf side. " 5. San Jose Commander, by Father Juhan de May- orga, in 1708, in latitude 26°, on the Gulf side. "6. La Purisima Concepcion, by Father Nicolas Tam- aral, in 1718, in latitude 26°, in the interior. "7. Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe, by Father Juan Ugarte and Everhard Helen, in 1721, in latitude 27°, on the Pacific. " 8. San Ignacio de Kadakman, by Father Juan B. Luyando, in 1728, in latitude 28°, on the Pacific. "9. N. S. de Dolores del Norte, in latitude 29°, was made as an adjunct to San Ignacio, but a few years afterwards seems to have been absorbed into this last and abandoned, as were two or three pioneer founda- tions of the same kind, before 1740. " 10. San Jose del Cabo, founded by Father Nicolas Tamaral, in. 1730, in latitude 23°. "11. Mission of Todos Santos in the South, founded as an adjunct to San Jose, about the year 1737, and formerly called Santa Rosa, in latitude 23°, on the Pacific. " 12. Mission of Santa Gertrudis, founded by Father HISTORICAL SUMMARY OF THE PENINSULA. 17 Fernando Consag, in 1751, in latitude 29°, on the Gulf side. "13. Mission of San Francisco Borja [pronounced Borca], founded by Padre Winceslao Link, in 1762, in latitude 29°, on the Gulf side. "14. Mission of Santa Maria, in the vicinity of the bay of Los Angeles, on the Gulf, founded by Father Victoriano Arnes, in 1767, in latitude 31°." Of these fourteen Jesuit missions it will be observed that only three were placed on or near the Pacific, and none of them north of 28°. In 1768 the Franciscans, under Father Junipero Serra, succeeded the Jesuits, and they fostered the already established missions, and founded one new one, that of — " 15. San Fernando Villacatta, in 1769, in latitude 31°, in the interior." The remaining seven Lower California missions were founded by the Dommicans; and all but one on the Pacific side : " 16. El Eosario, near the bay of Los Virgenes, on the Pacific, in 1774, in latitude 30° 25', about fifty miles north- west from San Fernando Villacatta. " 17. Santo Domingo, near San Quintin Bay, and twen- ty leagues north from Rosario, in 1775, in latitude 30° 52'. " 18. San Vicente Ferrer, twenty leagues north from San Domingo, in latitude 31° 30'. " 19. Santo Tomas, near the bay of Todos Santos, the next above San Vicente, in 1790, in latitude 31° 52', about forty miles above San Vicente. '' 20. San Pedro Mart}T, about forty miles east of Santo 18 PENINSULAR CALIFORNIA. Tomas, in the mountains, on the 28th day of May, 1794, by Father Cayetano Pallos, in latitude 31° 50'. "21. San Miguel, of the frontiers, some thirty miles south of San Diego, in 1782, by Father Tomas Valdellon and Miguel Lopez, in about latitude 32° 10'. " 22. Santa Catalina de los Yumas, about fifty miles east from Santo Tomas, in the mountains, by Father Jose Lorient, on the 18th of May, 1797, in about latitude 31° 20'. Santa Catalina was the last mission founded in Lower Cahfornia." It appears that the Indians were numerous and very troublesome for many years in the northern haK of the Peninsula; and as the mission fathers had no armed force to protect them, their progress northward, par- ticularly on the Ocean side, was made difficult. The topography of the Peninsula, which becomes very mountainous north of latitude 29°, also impeded theu' operations. The old roads then made. show that they were thus troubled. In 1790, when the mission of Santo Tomas was founded, "the Indians were very trouble- some to manage." Since then they have almost en- tirely disappeared in the northern district. The dises- tabhshment of the missions here, as in Upper California, tended to the speedy extinction of the race. In 1842 the Mexican Congress admitted two delegates from the two Cahfornias, on a basis of somewhat over thirty -three thousand population for both, of which twelve thousand were credited to Lower, and the remain- der to Upper Cahfornia. During the Mexican War United States troops occupied the Peninsula, and a con- HISTORICAL SUMMARY OF THE PENINSULA. 19 siderable number of the principal inhabitants, who had favored annexation to the United States, left the terri- tory when the American troops evacuated it. When gold was discovered in Upper California a large migra- tion to the gold-fields still further emptied the northern part of the Penuisula. In the "Geografia de la Repubhca Mexicana" of Mr. Antonio Garcia Cubas, pubhshed in 1874, the total popu- lation of Lower Cahfornia is given at 23,195, of which only 6125 were credited to the northern part, above latitude 29°. In fact, it was considerably less in 1880, the pursuits of mining and the pearl-fishery, and the difficulty of getting away to other countries, having barely mamtained the population of the southern end, the most populous part lying between the latitude of La Paz and Cape St. Lucas. Pohtically, the Peninsula is a Territory, not a State, of the Mexican republic. It has two capitals, La Paz in the south, and Ensenada in the north ; and two governors, appointed by the Federal authority as governors of Ter- ritories are appointed with us. The great length of the Peninsula, and the difficulty of passing through this length, has made necessary its division mto these two districts. There is no territorial legislature; the few Government employes are paid out of the Federal treas- ury, and with the exception of customs duties there are no taxes, except for local improvements. There are, therefore, no " pohtics " in this quiet land. The Govern- ment requnes the inhabitants to obey the laws and keep the peace, and large powers are given to the governors 20 PENINSULAR CALIFORNIA. to maintain order and punish violence. At La Paz there is a small force of troops ; at Ensenada the Governor had until recently under his control a pohce force of fifteen mounted men, well armed and active, who were suffi- cient for all purposes. The rapid and considerable increase in population around Todos Santos Bay and in other parts of the terri- tory possessed and being settled by the International Company has led the Federal Government, for the pro- tection and security of settlers, to make Ensenada, the capital, a full company post, establishing there a picked company of one hundred soldiers, commanded by offi- cers carefully selected for their standing in the military school, which is the West Point of Mexico. CHAPTEK II. WHY THE PENINSULA WAS REPUTED A DESERT. TTTTITH the exception of New Guinea, Lower Califor- * ' nia was until recently one of the least known parts of the world. Very thinly inhabited except in the extreme southern part, examined in its whole length and breadth by not more than one or two men capable of making an intelligent report on it, so mountainous and uninhabited m the northern half that — as I know by experience — travelling was extremely difficult there from lack of supplies and good roads. Lower California, having got the reputation of being a desert, attracted no general attention or even curiosity. Mining prospectors examined parts of it from time to time, and failed to find the rich deposits they hoped for. Land speculators got grants of parts of it from the Mexican Government, but broke down, because they planted colonies only on the sterile southern half. Until the International Com- pany secured its grants in the northern half of the Pen- insula this part was avoided by speculators of all kinds, who were attracted to the south because there the rich- est mineral deposits were reported to be, and there also are the broad plains which were mistakenly supposed to be most capable of colonization. The mountainous char- 22 PENINSULAR CALIFORNIA. acter of the northern district concealed its agricultural wealth from mere speculators. It required the actual explorations and surveys made by the International Company to reveal the extent and value of this section. Thus the whole Peninsula has long been regarded as a desert because only its worst parts were known, and these even but little known. It does contain in the middle and southern parts a considerable sterile area. There are, according to Ross Browne and other travel- lers, extensive plains in the southern district, curiously covered with rocks and loose stones, and really desert. In other portions of the southern half of the Peninsula there are, again, broad plains having a fertile soil, and as Eoss Browne, its only careful explorer, reported, water attainable by digging wells. But most of these southern plains, which are below the limits of the International Company, he in the rainless zone. The water which Ross Browne found everywhere, even in this arid region, underlying the soil is of course the drainage of the mountain range which runs the whole length of the Peninsula. The various attempts at colonization have been, with one or two exceptions, made in the southern half of the Peninsula, and their failure naturally gave the whole of Lower California a bad name. But even these attempts failed mainly because they were, in every case so far as I know, mere speculative adventures, carried on without inteUigence and with no purpose to establish agriculture, but either as mere mining enterprises or with the de- sign to unload on settlers as quickly as possible. Ross WHY THE PENINSULA AVAS REPUTED A DESERT. 25 Browne, who traversed the whole Peninsula from Cape St. Lucas to the United States boundary, in 1867, in the employ of the Lower California Company, one of these colonisation schemes, gives a vivid description of such a speculative settlement which he saw in that year : "We struck inland a mile or two below Santa Ma- ria. Approaching the place, our eyes were gladdened by the sight of two or three very American - looking board houses and a well-cleared piece of road, broad and smooth as a race-track. What was our surprise, on rid- ing up to the house, to find a couple of sign-boards on one corner, one bearing the inscription ' Hyde Street,' the other ' Barry Street !' Without knowing it, we had stum- bled on an embryo American town. We were met at the door by an elderly man, whose name we afterwards learned was Porter. He welcomed us cordially, showed us where to put our baggage and saddles, dhected the men where to find pasture for the mules, and took us in, treating us with the greatest hospitahty. We remained over the next day, and learned that the proposed city of Santa Maria was a speculation of a Judge Hyde, of San Francisco, based on the problematical event of his being able to make this the terminus of the best road across the mountains to the Colorado. A large sum of money had been spent here, and all that remained to show for it were two good houses and one very poor one, a few hundred yards of useless road running nowhere over a plain, a corral, and a little vegetable garden. The port is so small and shallow that the little vessel of eight or ten tons that comes here occasionally has difficulty in pass- 26 PENINSULAR CALIFORNIA. ing the bar ; the plain' on which the future city is to be built is too salt to admit of cultivation, and is subject to overflows when, as last winter, it is covered with half a foot or more of water; firewood there is none, except a scanty supply of willow, and the general resources of the region are just nil. There is excellent grass on the plains, especially among the willows and near the hills, and the water, which is very good, is reached by wells of from three to twelve feet deep." Here were grass and good water easily accessible, Mr. Browne reports, but no effort made at real settlement by farmers. Santa Maria City was evidently the merest speculation ; a proposed terminus for a proposed railroad which never got further than being proposed. Every such failure has, of course, given the whole Peninsula a black eye, although not more than one or two even of these futile attempts, so far as I know, were made in that northern part which the International Company of Mexico controls, and which is now opened to settlement. The last of these failed colonizing attempts was that of the Lower California Company, in 1868-70. Their grant extended from the latitude of La Paz in the south to San Quintin in the north, and they chose for their first settlement perhaps the least promising part of this great area — the section about Magdalena Bay, a large part of which is really sterile. The colonists who were sent there by the company were laborers with no means, who were told that to collect orchilla, a parasitic plant used in dyeing, would give them a living. They WHY THE PENINSULA WAS REPUTED A DESERT. 27 found it did not, and some perished on the spot ; the rest got back to Upper CaUfornia, telhng truly that they had been misled into a hopeless enterprise. The company seem to have been discouraged by this failure, and, so far as I know, made no further efforts. As they did not ful- fil the conditions on which they received their large grant, the Mexican Government m due time, and in a legal manner, formally declared it forfeited. CHAPTER III. NATUEAL WEALTH, CLIMATE, SOIL, TIMBER, WATER, ETC. ^HE grant of the International Company begins -^ a little south of the northern limit of the extinct Lower Cahfornia Company, and extends north to the United States boundary line. It covers a region almost the whole of which possesses a totally different charac- ter from that farther south. "While more mountainous than our Upper California, or than the part of the Penin- sula to the south, and therefore containing a less propor- tion of arable lands, it has numerous valleys, mesas, and hill-slopes as rich as the best of Upper California, with, as will be found by settlers, as large an average rainfall as San Diego or San Bernardino County, and as large a number, in proportion, of streams available for irriga- tion.* I do not believe that irrigation will be more neces- sary in these valleys than it is in San Diego, Los Angeles, and San Bernardino counties. Grain crops are grown as successfully without irrigation in the valleys of north- ern Lower California, wherever men have tried, as in the counties I have named. This change in the character of the northern part of * Tables of temperature, rainfall, etc., will be found in an appendix. Mmi&iR'^SM: m NATURAL WEALTH, CLIMATE, SOIL, TIMBER, ETC. 31 the Peninsula has struck every traveller. It is due mainly to the fact that the high mountain ranges in the north affect the climate favorably, and also gather and store waters for the streams. In his "Historical Sum- mary of Lower California, from its Discovery in 1532 to 1867," Alexander S. Taylor, a well-known Cahfornian, says on this point : " As the vicinities of the bay of Viscaino are reached, and after passing the parallel of 28°, the mountain sys- tem begins to rapidly rise from four thousand feet to the elevation of perpetual snow, which it appears to attain opposite the mission of San Fernando, and which from several accounts it seems to carry until near the mission of Santa Catalina. These snowy peaks (for it is only on the highest peaks snow is seen) must be over twelve thousand feet high, as they are reported to be covered with snow in the spring and early summer by Kino in 1702, Link in 1765, and by Patie in 1827; but these Ne- vadas have never been laid down geographically correct in the two or three old maps of the Jesuits ; indeed, they are not laid down on any we have seen dated after 1830. In their vicinity is stated to be a large mountain lake which feeds the various small streams north of Viscaino Bay. "It is the melting of the snows on tliis range which makes the northern part of the Peninsula so much bet- ter and more fertile than the southern districts, or even l)etter than our sections between San Diego and San Bernardino." That there is a striking change and improvement in 32 PENINSULAR CALIFORNIA. the climate, soil, and watering of the Peninsula, as the traveller proceeds northward, is attested by all observers. Ross Browne, for instance, writes : "Having passed Eosario, we were told to expect a great improvement in the country. The rocky tracts were to disappear, and beautiful valleys to take their place. Of a truth, there was a great change ; but Ro- sario is rather an arbitrary point. San Quintin would be a nearer approximation to the truth." He goes on to describe the country he saw about San Quintin : "About San Quintin the pasture was exactly like that of Upper California in its best condition. Alfileria, alfal- fa, burr and red clovers make the greater part of the for- age plants, while the yellow poppy, primrose, and other f amihar flowers complete the resemblance. In fact, the belt from here to Eosario may be laid down as the divid- ing line between the semitropical floras of the lower peninsula and the more northern vegetation of Upper Cahfornia. Many species of cactus disappear soon after leaving Eosario, as well as a large number of other plants with which we had become familiar ; and of those which do continue, a large number cling tenaciously to the mountains or highlands, and are even there scattered and thinning out. On the other hand, we had noticed for more than a week, one after another of our northern friends coming in, first scattered, stunted, and evidently away from home, but gradually increasing in number and size, almost insensibly but none the less surely sup- planting their southern neighbors. This overlapping of NATURAL WEALTH, CLIMATE, SOIL, TIMBER, ETC. 33 forms takes place much more marked!}' in the high land than in the plains. In the latter the vegetation is much more sectional ; that is, it resembles much more closely the district to which it belongs. "As an illustration, an Upper Californian, suddenly transported to San Quintin, would have no special rea- son to suppose himself out of his State ; while if he were placed on the mountains directly east or north-east he would find the same plants that make the characteristic landscape about San Borja, or even farther south. Two or three miles from San Quintm we saw the last cardon, or columnar cactus ; and in the hne of demarcation which I had laid down we encountered the first buck- eyes and elders. Chaparral oaks make their appearance between this point and San Telmo, and the hills support, for the first time, a scattering growth of chamiso. The ceanothus, with its little bunches of purphsh fiowers, appears about the same time. " On the 10th we rode along the coast half a dozen leagues, over good grazing lands, to San Ramon, where we camped aside of a marshy arroyo, under shelter of a clump of willows. A quarter of a mile from us was a house, the headquarters of a ranchero. The people here are engaged m raising horses, of which we saw several bands. The animals are of good size, fine-looking beasts, and then condition spoke well for the character of the pasture." Proceeding northward from San Quintm, Browne continues : "Leaving San Ramon, we followed the coast four 34 PENINSULAR CALIFORNIA. leagues farther over a similar country to that behind us, and then our road took us four leagues across a range of pretty high hills to San Telmo, a little settlement near a deserted and ruined mission, in a deep valley. Every- thing bore the impress of an approach to Upper Califor- nia. Large herds of sleek, nice-looking cows were graz- ing on the flats and lying under the shade of the trees ; while several flocks of sheep could be seen dottmg the hill-sides, or huddled together in some shady spot, under the care of a drowsy shepherd, whose more vigflant dog would rush at us with furious barking, trying to drive us away from his charge." He goes on with his journal : "In the afternoon we rode across a rolling granite country three leagues to the old mission of San Vicente, where, the next day being Sunday, we remained until Monday morning. Our camp was one of the most beau- tiful I ever beheld. We were on a perfectly level tract of a few acres, nearly shut in by a grand old hedge of prickly-pear ; the whole area was covered with a mat of the greenest grass. Back of us was a table ten or flf teen feet high, on which stood the not unpicturesque ruins of the mission buildings ; at our side was a fine stream of water, and overhead the dense f ohage of a clump of ven- erable olive-trees, in the midst of which we had made our camp. The mules luxuriated in the rich, juicy herb- age, and we enjoyed the beauties of the place to the full- est, leaving it with regret when Monday morning re- minded us that we could idle no longer. " San Vicente contains several leagues of good, very NATURAL WEALTH, CLIMATE, SOIL, TIMBER, ETC. 35 fertile bottom-land, and a considerable tract of grazing- land, on the low, roUing hills. A large portion of the bottom seems to have been cultivated during the time of the missions, judging from the remains of irrigating ditches winding around the hill -sides. Let American enterprise wake these people out of their lethargy, and San Vicente wiU become one of the most flourishing ranches of Lower California. " From San Vicente we rode inland seven leagues to Santo Tomas, through a roUing, rocky country, with plenty of water. This latter place is in the bottom of a wide arroyo, twenty-one miles from the coast. It is quite a town, of some perhaps fifty or sixty inhabitants, containing half a dozen houses and the ruins of the small mission estabUshment. A few acres of ground are under cultivation, irrigated by the water of three or four large springs. This is the headquarters of the subgov- ernment of the frontiers. Senor Zerega, the deputy-gov- ernor, to whom we had letters, was absent, but we were very weU received by the family of a brother-in-law of our guide. A group of old ohve- trees, here surpassing in size even those of San Vicente, are almost the only traces of early cultivation of the vicinity. The valley is said to be excellent ranch-land for some distance further up, and all the way to the coast. Some cattle and sheep are raised here, and considerable quantities of wine are produced." This was in 1867. In the summer of 1849 a party of American gold- seekers, traveUtng by sea from Panama to California in a New Granadian schooner of about twenty-three tons, 36 PENINSULAR CALIFORNIA. were shipwrecked near Point Domingo, on the southern coast of the Peninsula, and six persons of this party determined to make their way by land to San Diego. It proved a long and severe journey, made in the dry sea- son, of which Mr. J. D. H awloy pubhshed his journal — a record of much suffering. He Also notices the change from the southern sterile and unfriendly region to one farther north, where, whenever they could find a ranch, they received supphes and were comfortably enter- tained ; and it is about Eosario that (as he also notes) this change began. His journal reports, for in- stance : " Monday, Septemher Mill. — From San Rafael we passed over an uneven but fair road for four and a half leagues, when we arrived at the Ranch El Salado, owned by a cousin of our guide, Don Nicolas, and brother of our first guide from San Jose de Grace to San Ignacio — Juan Jose — and we received a cordial welcome. At present the ranch is only for grazing, but Senor Marie, the pro- prietor, is now busy making adobes for a new house, and he intends to bring in a stream of water for irrigation ; this will enable him to raise all kinds of fruits and vege- tables. The valley is quite extensive, and the soil ap- pears to be good. We spent the entire day at El Sala- do, and we are to exchange two of our mules for two horses. " Tuesday, September 25th. — Did not get an early start, as our two horses did not come in till about twelve o'clock. At two we started and rode to San Vicente, three and a half leagues, an excellent ranch." NATURAL WEALTH, CLIMATE, SOIL, TIMBER, ETC. 37 Under date of September 29th lie writes : " We have passed through unmense fields of wild oats and mustard, where large numbers of horses and cattle are grazing. The Indians about here are repre- sented as very troublesome." Compare these accounts of travellers and explorers with the following, which I extract from the Ensenada Lower Californian of April 19, 1888, and it will be seen that they did not exaggerate : "A friend at Sauzal sends us a sheaf of wild oats which measures four feet in length and hangs full of grain. These oats grow wild, and immense fields of them go to waste for want of stock to eat them. " Charles Bennett showed us the other day a twig six inches in length, cut from a plum-tree in his Maneadero orchard, on which were eight full-grown plums. The tree has been set out just one year. This growth was not exceptional. Other fruit-trees in his orchard pre- sented the same wonderful productiveness. If there had ever been any reason to doubt that fruit-trees would do weU in that valley, Mr. Bennett's orchard settles the question beyond all controversy. " We understand the wheat harvest is coming on in the Maneadero and other valleys m this vicinity, some grain having already been cut. By next week, probably, the wheat harvest will be on in earnest. The yield will be large, and the quahty equal to any raised on the Pa- cific coast, or, for that matter, in the world." And this account of San Ysidrio, a newly developed region south of Santo Tomas : 38 PENINSULAR CALIFORNIA. " To the Editor of the Lower Californian : "All the resident farmers here are pushing forward their clearing and planting operations, and any one who has not visited our place since the first sod was turned, some three months ago, would be surprised to see what the progress has been in that short period. We have six resident families engaged in farming, two more who have land under crop and whose ulterior intentions are unknown, and eight others who have bought land on our mesa with the view of settling and cultivating in the autumn. Others farming at some distance have bespoken land on the town site to build upon for resi- dence. " The chief attractions of our place are the healthful- ness and beauty of its location on the Pacific Ocean, fifty-four miles from Ensenada, its equable climate and invigorating breezes, the natural protection of our land- ing making it the inlet and outlet for considerable back country business, the mineral wealth of the neighbor- hood, good soil, abundant fuel, cheap Indian labor, and water abundant in quantity and unsurpassed in quahty. "One of our farmers has new potatoes fit to dig, while all have a growth more or less promising of hay, corn, and other farm and garden produce. Vines and fruit-trees have been set out by some, and others are now at work at it. "The Ensenada and San Quintin steamer calls once a week." The Indians have long ago ceased to be troublesome ; ^■is / NATURAL WEALTH, CLIMATE, SOIL, TIMBER, ETC. 41 they have ahnost totally disappeared, and the few who remam are a docile laboring force. The Spanish rancheros of San Diego and Los An- geles counties knew the northern part of Lower Cah- fornia more intimately than any one else. Some of them had relatives hving in that country, and most of them had travelled in it. I knew several of these in 1871-72, all of whom asserted to me positively that the northern part of the Peninsula, as far down as below Eosario, so far from being the desert it was commonly reputed to be, was fertile, beautiful, fairly well watered, and as rich as L^pper California. Their testimony, which was unanimous and positive, first induced me to think of owning property down there, and led me to study the region in reports and other pubhcations — very few in number they are — and to visit it in 1881.' Don Juan Foster, one of the largest land and cattle owners in San Diego County, told me fii-st, what was confirmed by others, that in seasons of severe drought, when his and other owners' cattle were starving, they were accustomed to drive them across the border into Lower California, where they were sure to find abundance of feed, and, of course, water, for cattle cannot five with- out water. This I find also confirmed in a letter of Charles D. Poston, written so long ago as 1866, in which he says : " For grazing cattle, horses, sheep, and goats, Lower California is, in some respects, superior to Upper Cah- fornia ; and I have personally known, in seasons of great drought, the cattle and horses from Los Angeles 42 PENINSULAR CALIFORNIA. and San Diego to be driven to Lower California to save them from perishing." Taylor quotes, to the same effect, a book I have never been fortunate enough to see— the account of the north- ern part of the Peninsula, by James 0. Patie. He says of Patie : " The first American who visited this section of the Peninsula from the east, or indeed the first white man, was James O. Patie, as long ago as March, 1827. He was taken, with his father and a party of distressed beaver-hunters, by a squad of soldiers at the mission of Santa Catalina, whence they travelled to San Vicente and then up the coast to Santo Tomas, San Miguel, and San Diego, at which place they were all put in prison by General Echeandia, the first Mexican governor of the two Californias. In his book, Patie says this part of the coast contains large quantities of fertile land, and the padres had excellent vineyards, gardens, and orchards of all kinds of fruits, grains, and vegetables, and feasted the travellers on good wines, fruits, and viands. Some four thousand Indians were seen in Santa Catahna, San Vicente, Santo Tomas, and San Miguel. These parts ^ere covered with bands of cattle by the thousand, and in Santo Tomas alone the padres had thirty thousand sheep." The accoimts thus given by intelhgent explorers and travellers refer only to the most easily accessible parts of the Peninsula, those on or adjacent to the sea-shore. The large interior of the northern part was never thor- oughly explored untfi the International Company's sur- PEXINSULAR CALIFORXIA — SOUTHERN ITAT.F. NATURAL WEALTH, CLIMATE, SOIL, TIMBER, ETC. 45 reyors traversed it. They found, besides numerous val- leys hidden among the mountains, plateaus covered with valuable timber and grasses, extensive areas possess- ing a fertile soil, an elevated pine belt one hundred and forty to one hundred and fifty miles in length north and south, and from five to twenty miles wide ; and in this area lagoons and mountain streams in abundance, with a temperate climate, the result of the elevation of these mountain plateaus. Here evidently are the sources of the streams which are found in the lowlands, and many of which reach the ocean. In this elevated region the climate is suitable to apples and cherries and other fruits of the northern temperate zone ; and the timber country will afford, when roads are made, abu'ndant supphes for the population nearer the sea-shore. Col. D. K. Allen, for over ten years a resident of the Peninsula, and at present land inspector for the Inter- national Company, has recently completed the first care- ful exploration of this great mountain region of the northern part, where are found the sources or head wa- ters of the streams which make their way, sometimes underground, sometimes at the surface, to the Pacific coast, and afford the certainty of water supply to the numerous valleys and plains. He reports details con- cerning the extensive timber belt in this mountain re- gion. He wi'ites : " This great mountain region Hes about one hundred miles south-east of Ensenada, seventy-five miles east of San Quintin, and from thirty to thirty-five miles west of the GuLf of Cahf ornia. 46 PENINSULAR CALIFORNIA. "The mountain, for there is really but one, is about one hundred and ten miles in length, and from fifteen to thirty in width. The great range, of which San Pedro is the crown, is about one hundred and sixty miles long and from twenty to forty wide. The highest portion of the mountain on the west is eleven thousand eight hun- dred feet above the sea, while the eastern portion, or that next to the Gulf, rises to twelve thousand eight hundred feet, and is covered with the very best of pine timber. The Palomas — three peaks at the extreme east — rise from one thousand two hundred to one thousand five hundred feet still higher. These are perfectly white, though the canons on the sides are filled with pine. " The highest altitude reached by my party was twelve thousand eight hundred feet at three different points. I spent seventy-six days and travelled over one thousand five hundred miles in my examination of that region. We visited every valley, climbed every mountain peak, followed every stream from its head to its point of union with streams that led to the sea. Water is abundant everywhere, and only has to be husbanded in order to furnish a great supply for all the lands on the north end of the Peninsula. These streams can be easily and cheaply dammed, and all of the pine can be put into them and floated down to the heads of the valleys. This can be done with the San Rafael, which is a grand stream with five large branches, draining nearly all of the north end of San Pedro ; also with the San Domingo, which drains the western side of the mountain, and the logs or timber can be taken out at the upper end of San NATURAL WEALTH, CLDIATE, SOIL, TIMBER, ETC. 47 Rafael Valley near Colnett, or at the upper end of San Quintin Valley near San Eamon. Either water route is perfectly feasible. "The pasture was the finest I ever saw on the Pacific coast. Wild oats, rye, red-top, clover, bunch grass, buffa- lo, gramma, and many other grasses were knee-high to our mules. There was only one man — an Indian — Hving within thirty miles of the mountain. He was milking sixty cows, and making butter and cheese, which he sold at the mining camps at Socorro and Valledares, at San Telmo and San Quintin. " Much of the surface of the mountain is level as a plain, and one can drive a pair of horses and buggy for miles just where he chooses among the pines. Other portions are almost inaccessible. The soil is excellent. The valleys of La Grulla, Santo Tomas, Santa Eoex Old Mission, Old Corral, Vallecitos, Valle de los CabaUos, are all beautiful and good. " The great area of the mountain is about one million acres, one-half of which is covered with good pine, cedar, and fir. I measured fifty-four acres, taken carefully as an average of the timber, and found that there were twenty -five large and fifteen small trees to the acre. The large trees averaged three logs each, twelve feet long, two and one -half feet in diameter. On the fifty- four acres I foimd only one hundred and sixty-five dead trees, of which one hundred and seven were lying on the ground. Two of these latter had recently fallen. I found one which measured one hundred and eighty feet in length, eight feet in diameter at the butt, and sixty- 48 PENINSULAR CALIFORNIA. five feet to the first limb, where it was five and one- half feet in diameter. I measured a number of fir and red cedar trees that were twenty-five, and even twenty- seven feet in circumference, eighteen inches above the ground. " With a railroad, which is feasible, that body of pine is worth many millions of dollars. The Yuma Railroad will pass within thirty miles of the northern end of the pine region, the best portion, and a track can be built up to the pines, or to some one of the streams, and the logs can be driven down the stream as is done in many places in Wisconsin and Michigan. This water held in reserve to run the logs can be utihzed in irrigating the valleys below. "Game was very abundant; black and white tail and moose deer by the hundreds. Antelope are plenty on the mesas south and east, and in the great valley of San Fehpe, which, by-the-way, will become one of the gardens of Lower California. It is an immense body of good land ; hot as Yuma, but for all that good. Mountain sheep are abundant at the southern end, near Rosarito. " The water and snow fall is immense. It rained five times in June, fifteen in July, seventeen m August, and sixteen in September. More than thirty inches of water fell. On the 10th and 11th of September six and one- tenth inches of water fell. On the 19th of the same month, in San Felipe Valley, three inches fell in four hours. The thunder was very heavy, the lightning sharp. Four weeks ago there was ten feet of snow on NATURAL WEALTH, CLIMATE, SOIL, TIMBER, ETC. 49 San Pedro. This accounts for the permanent water in all of the streams from Ensenada to the southward, and for the mild, pleasant climate of summer all along the coast." Further details of this important timber country will be found in an appendix. The Peninsula is undoubtedly rich in minerals, but its great development m this direction can come only with a denser population. In the southern part a num- ber of profitable mining enterprises are on foot at this time. The Triumfo silver-mmes, south-west of La Paz, are in English hands. Near latitude 27° on the Gulf side, the Santa Rosalia and Poleo copper -mines are worked by a French company under control of the Paris Rothschilds. This company has expended several milhons on its works, town, and a railroad; and the mines are considered very rich. There are at several points on the Peninsula considerable placer and quartz deposits, promising well, and there have been lately dis- coveries of copper deposits m the northern part, beheved to be as rich as those on the Gulf coast above spoken of. The "color" of gold can be got in almost every gulch and ravine on the Peninsula ; and when the mm- eral resources are better known it will probably be found that the Peninsula's formation is but an extension of the gi'eat northern California gold-field. Concerning the healthfulness of the climate of the northern part of the Peninsula, all the accounts, from those of the early missionaries down, concur, and with enthusiastic praise. Taylor, whom I have before quoted, 50 PENINSULAR CALIFORNIA. does not misrepresent the universal testimony when he writes : "The climate of the country between the boundary and Magdalena Bay is one of the most delightful, salubrious, and equable on the face of the globe, and, if settled, this region would be among the most accessible and accepta- ble sanitariums in the world, and is admirably adapted to raising many of the fruits of the torrid zone, and all of those of the Mediterranean basin as well as all the vegetables and cereals of Alta California ; and all agree that they are of much better quahty than those raised above San Diego." He adds, what is very true, that on the Gulf of Cali- fornia the summers are extremely hot, "torrid" as he rightly says. Again he writes: "The climate, from its proximity to the sea, is not only extremely salubrious, the people enjoying uncom- monly good health, and being long livers, but the atmos- phere is extremely fine, pleasant, and invigorating, and seldom troubled with cold summer fogs and winds; these facts are well known since 1770, the testimony of travellers and seamen being uniform. "The missionaries, after 1730, introduced the Arabian date-palm, which succeeds admirably, and yields abun- dantly, and also oranges, lemons, and ah the species of the citrine family, pineapples, bananas, and plantains. They also planted the vine, ohve, fig, pomegranate, almond, peach, quince, and even plums, apples, pears, melons, watermelons, and such hke, in more elevated and cooler districts. The vine, fig, olive^ currant -grape, almond, NATURAL WEALTH, CLIMATE, SOIL, TIMBER, ETC. 51 quince, and peach are more luscious, and grow much quicker, and with less labor and expense, than in Alta Cahfornia, and in many localities are unsurpassed in the world for luxuriance, sweetness, and flavor. The fig and grape are much sweeter than in our State, and the gTape ripens quicker and better, from hotter and drier suns, and makes much richer wine, brandy, raisins, and currants. Before 1849 the Lower Calif ornians sent up annually to Monterey large quantities of dried figs, currants, gTapes, dates, and peaches, and cheese also, where they were sold at reasonable rates and good profits. "There is much good land near the missions of Ro- sario, San Vicente, Santo Domingo, and Santo Tomas; several permanent streams and a number of coast la- goons furnish abundance of excellent water for animals and irrigation, exceedingly abundant and easily taken. The orange, lemon, banana, date -plum, grape, fig, olive, almond, peach, pomegranate, quince, arrive at maturity much earlier than farther north, in the United States." CHAPTER TV. THE PENINSULA AJSTD CALIFORNIA COMPARED. TF these accounts of Lower California are not gross -^ exaggerations, it will reasonably be said, "Why is it that this region, adjoining our own California, has lain so long waste ? One cause is the immense area of unoc- cupied, singularly rich, and until lately very cheap lands in CaUf ornia, having also a chmate remarkably health- ful and pleasant, and so wide a variety of products that ■their full extent is not even yet known. Another is that Lower California is Mexican, a foreign land, and, as I have said before, a singularly unexplored region. But the main cause is found in the Mexican laws, which, until they were modified some years ago, rigorously forbade Americans, and all foreigners in fact, to own real estate within sixty miles of the boundary line and within three leagues from the sea-shore. The Peninsula is narrow, and these laws worked as total an exclusion •of settlers from abroad as though a Chinese wall had been built across the boundary line. Aside from these .causes, there were also others, such as the failure of experiments in colonization, and, even more important, the difficulty for individual purchasers, without great ex- pense of time and money, to ascertain the boundaries of THE PENINSULA AND CALIFORNIA COMPARED. 55 occupied ranches, the soundness of titles, and the location of public lands in a region which has never been surveyed. The International Company began its operations by making a complete survey of the northern part of the Peninsula. This was the first of the conditions on which it received its gi'ant. It thus ascertained accurately which were the pubhc lands, of which by survey and purchase it became the owner, and at the same time, of course, marked the precise boundaries of such lands as were by good titles in private ownership, most of which latter lands the company has since bought. Thus by the company's labors this region was for the first time properly opened to possible settlement. Until this work was done, no lines could be definitely ascertained. Having made its surveys, the International Company is able to fix boundaries accurately, and by the condi- tions of its grant is able to give sound and indisputable title-deeds to the lands it seUs. These titles are in the form of warrantee deeds of the company, confirmed in every case by the Mexican Government in the manner of a United States land patent. By a special clause in the company's grant, these titles to lands it sells to set- tlers are made unassailable, even in the contmgency that the company should fail to fulfil some of the conditions of the grant. In that case (which is, however, no longer possible, as it has actually fulfilled all the conditions except that of settling two thousand families, for which it has ten years from September, 1887) it is provided that while the company shall forfeit its unsold lands, those a<;tually sold to settlers shall be undisputed. 56 PENINSULAR CALIFORNIA. My own long-entertained desire to own land in Lower California led me, between 1878 and 1880, to make a care- ful study of the Mexican land laws, which showed me that ownership on the Peninsula was impossible to a foreigner, even if he should become a Mexican citizen. Only native born citizens could own lands within the prohibited zone. I then, through a very influential Mexi- can friend, made a personal application to the Mexican Government to have these regulations relaxed in my own case, stating the fact that some of my family wished to hve in that region. This application was re- jected on the ground that the law forbade, and I gave the matter up, after having visited the Peninsula in 1881, and satisfied myself that it was a region very desirable even to one who, like myself, knew Upper California thoroughly, and was an enthusiastic behever in its won- derful chmate and soil. In December, 1883, the Mexican Congress passed a law which altered the conditions of landholding within its borders, and very hberally opened Mexican lands to settlement and ownership by foreigners. It was the be- ginning of a new policy which is destined to work an immense benefit to Mexico ; and the conception and exe- cution of which is extremely creditable to the Govern- ment and people of Mexico. This " new departure " was made under the administration of President Gonzalez, and has been carried out in good faith and with enlight- ened vigor under the administration of President Diaz, to whose wise and far-seeing statesmanship the Mexican republic owes a deep debt of gratitude. THE PENINSULA AND CALIFORNIA COMPARED. 57 Under the act of Congress known as the " Coloniza- tion Law," the Mexican President was authorized by Congress to make grants of pubhc lands to companies on conchtion of survey and settlement; the object being to secure the disposal of the public lands not to speculators to be held in great tracts, but for the settlement of agri- culturists, to populate the vacant parts of the repubhc. Thus the opening of the northern half of Lower Cahfor- nia became for the first time possible. In any case, the experience of the last thirty yeai-s has pretty weU dissipated the "desert" superstition. Old men remember very well when Texas was beheved to be a desert waste. I have myself, within twenty years, talked with Californians who refused to believe that their State could ever support a population " after mmiag was played out ;" and when I wrote my book on that State in 1871-72, describing its natural fertility and foretelUng its great and various development, Cahfor- nians for the most part beheved and said I had grossly overrated the richness of their State. Little more than ten years ago New Mexico and Arizona were popularly believed to be deserts, fit at best only in spots to run cat- tle on ; and the vast central plain, which has now nearly half a milhon of farmers, stands in the geographies of twenty-five years ago as "the great American desert." It required tliirty years— from 1848 to 1878— to devel- op even in part the singular and wonderful agiicultural wealth of California; and in my behef, not more than the half is known yet. I have myself seen a section of that State which in 1873 was declared, by a sheep-man with 58 PENINSULAR CALIFORNIA. whom I camped, to be so sterile a desert that he could not feed a band of two thousand sheep on a hundred thousand acres of it, and he was then actually driving them off. When I saw this region again, in 1881, it was green with alfalfa and covered with all kinds of fruit- trees — apples already in bearing — and the land was thought cheap, and was cheap, at one hundred dollars per acre. Such experiences, of which I have known a dozen, show me that the cry of "desert" is nonsense. I travelled in 1881 over a part of the Peninsula where I could not for any money buy feed for my horses; and in the very same region I saw last year corn from fifteen to seventeen feet high, at least half the stalks bearing from two to three ears — full, large ears, such as would delight an Illinois farmer — and near by, the stubble of a large wheat -field, which showed that an excellent crop had been taken off; and all this with no irrigation whatever. American energy and enterprise, and American ploughs, had brought about this change on the Peninsula, just as they have done in Upper Cal- ifornia. That the country is healthful is so well estabhshed that it is needless to assert it ; all who have hved in it or travelled through it have proclaimed the peculiar excel- lence of the climate of the northern half of the Penin- sula. Like our own southern California, it affords every degree of climate — cool on the mountains, on the highest of which snow falls every year; cool also on the sea- shore, and a dry heat in the interior valleys. Both the summer and winter climates of the sea- THE PENINSULA AND CALIFORNIA COMPARED. 59 shore of the northern part of the Peninsula will be found pecuharly kindly and favorable to persons with weak lungs or weak constitutions — more favorable, in my behef, than any part of the southern Cahfornia sea- shore, unless it be Santa Barbara and San Diego. More favorable because more equable. There are less daily extremes of temperature; the nights are cool but not cold, and the days are warm, but in my experience scarcely ever hot. I wore winter flannels in August on the shores of Lower Cahfornia, with light summer cloth- ing; and a more charming and more salubrious and invigorating climate than is found on the shores of Todos Santos Bay, and as far down as San Quintin, no one need wish. The time will come when almost every harbor within these limits will be a favorite resort both for summer and winter tourists and invahds. The sce- nery is enchanting, and the value to persons in tender health of the sea-shore climate of the Peninsula will be acknowledged, and will make that coast famous as soon as good hotels are ready to receive such persons, and competent physicians have been drawn thither to report on it. In an appendix will be found valuable records of temperature at Ensenada, kept for two years by an ex- pert observer, which tell their own story. The questions the farmer asks are : Is the soil fertile ? Is the climate healthful ? Is it adapted to the gi'owth of the most valuable crops ? Does the region promise suffi- cient water for the necessities of agriculture ? To aU these questions my answer is " Yes." The soil of the vaUeys and mesas is as rich as any in the world. 60 PENINSULAR CALIFORNIA. The climate is as various as any one can ask ; for the settler may go to a mountain-side high enough to grow apples, or into valleys where he may grow date-palms, bananas, and the citrous fruits. He has as large a choice as in Southern California, and in my behef he will have a larger. There is no doubt that the date can be grown as a safe and profitable crop ; the banana will grow as a crop wherever the farmer has shelter and water ; though I do not believe this tender and large- leaved plant will flourish on the sea -shore. It needs shelter almost everywhere. Whether the cocoanut palm will thrive seems to me doubtful. It is not now found, at any rate, on the Peninsula north of La Paz, but there it does well. I think it may be discovered by-and-by that in the northern half of the Peninsula Ues the true home of the olive ; and I have no doubt that the climate is peculiarly well suited to the Madeira grape, which may, in the hands of enterprising Americans, find a new home and fresh vigor on the virgin soil of the Peninsula. For some years to come Lower California will be a place for experiments in agriculture and horti- culture, just as for twenty years past Upper California has variously and surprisingly rewarded intelligent ex- periment in its different sections. And it must be borne in mind that the farmer on the Peninsula will have the inestimable benefit of all the knowledge of methods of cultivation, adaptability of soil and situations to plants, use of water, etc. — of all that has been learned in these matters in the last thirty years by the farmers, orchard- ists, and vine -growers of our own California. How THE PENINSULA AND CALIFORNIA COMPARED. 61 great the gain and advantage are in this respect, those know who have seen how much our Eastern farmers had to learn when they went upon Cahfornia lands, and through what years of patient and costly experi- ment they secured the knowledge which is now open to every settler on the Peninsula. As to water for irrigation, there is every reason to be- heve that with proper management there will be abun- dance. The fact that a number of old olive orchards, notably that of Santo Tomas, have survived the neglect of tjie greater part of a century, and that the grape and the pomegranate have grown well with scarcely any care, is sufficient evidence that the Peninsular lands are not dry, or arid, or desert. It will be found an advantage that in Lower Cali- fornia no large region or area will have to depend for uTigation water upon a single considerable river. Dis- putes about water are already proving very troublesome in some parts of Upper California, and as the country becomes more densely populated they threaten to be- come more frequent and bitter. They arise in almost every case out of the fact that a number of different and rapidly growing locahties depend for their irriga- tion water on the same stream, and those above inter- fere, by their use of the stream, with those at lower levels. The mass of mountains which crowd the northern part of the Peninsula gives being to numerous small streams. These find their way to the coast from many different parts of the interior range ; and it is a pecuU- 4 62 PENINSULAR CALIFORNIA. arity of this region that most of these streams are " lost," as it is called, at some part of their course, reap- pearing in many, though not all cases still farther down, and often forming lagoons near the sea-shore, where the ocean throws up a bank across their mouths. There are many such sunken streams in the northern part of the Peninsula, and wherever these occur it will be found that to dam up such a stream at a convenient part of its upper and sunken course will secure a supply of irrigation water at proper levels. In a journey over some part of this region which I made in 1881, 1 saw in a number of places these evidences of water; but of course the few and unenterprising Mexican farmers had neither means nor skill to use what nature offered them. The International Company's surveyors, who have exam- ined this region much more closely than any one else, report abundant streams issuing from the mountains in the interior available for irrigation ; and this was to be expected from the pecuUarly mountainous character of this part of the Peninsula. The experience which Cahfornians have gained in the last fifteen years in the securing and economical management of irrigation water will be very helpful to settlers in Lower California. That experience shows not only that water is far more abundant than was suspected, and that it can be had wherever high mount- ain ranges exist to gather it from the clouds, but also that by their united efforts men of small means, few in number, can make themselves sure of a sufficient water supply. It has been found also that an insignificant con- -: iii THE PENINSULA AND CALIFORNIA COMPARED. 65 stant stream suffices to water an astonishing quantity of land; that no such constant soaking of the soil as was practised twenty years ago by our people in California is required ; that thorough and frequent ploughing is al- most everywhere sufficient for grain crops, and that when once the subsoil has been penetrated by irrigation, the land thereafter needs comparatively httle water. It is an advantage also that the practice of settlement in " colonies " has been perfected and proved a conspicu- ous success in Upper California, for the many charming httle valleys scattered among the mountains of Lower Cahfornia are specially fitted for such settlement of colonists. By combined effort even a dozen or twenty farmers can in such valleys secure water, and forming a society among themselves, they can at once and easily provide a church, school -house, and other conveniences of hfe. Yery soon, too, mechanics are drawn into such "colonies," and the little settlement has about it all it needs for the simple and independent life in a pleasant climate, where the house need be only a shelter, and no expensive barns, stables, and other out-houses are re- quired. Nor does this exhaust the possibihties of settlement in colonies. There is no reason why in such societies the middle -man should not be ehminated, why the colony should not buy at wholesale for all its mem- bers what they need from without, and thus effect so great a saving as would bring almost immediate pros- perity to all. Almost every farmer, especially in a new country, has noticed that it is the "store-keeper" who 66 PENINSULAR CALIFORNIA. gets rich ; wlio lives in a fine house and sends his sons to college and his daughters to boarding-school, while his customers, the farmers and mechanics, work unceasingly to get not much more than a bare hving. A colony may easily, if it hkes, save to its members all the profits on which the "store-keeper" makes a fortune. A colony may, if its members agree, make rules for economical management in still other ways ; as, for instance, by unit- ing to do without fences around their lands, each keep- ing up his own cattle, which, where alfalfa is grown and ensilage is made, can be easily done. It is to be hoped that the farmers who will settle in the pretty valleys of Lower Cahf ornia will try such ex- pedients as these to make their labor more productive, and to economize their outlays. Except on low-lying lands, I should say that irriga- tion will be required in Lower California at least as much as in San Diego, San Bernardino, and Los Angeles counties. But with water applied to the soil, what won- ders^ what miracles have been wrought in Southern Cah- f ornia in a few years ! I saw Riverside in the spring of 1872, when it was so dreary and desolate a spot that to my eyes, and to those of many others, it seemed a hope- less desert waste. The few orange-trees which had been set out had just been cut down by a bitter frost ; the great plain was still bare, only three or four small frame houses standing on it ; and the whole enterprise seemed to even my sanguine eyes so unpromising that I told Judge North, the founder of the colony, that I feared he had made a mistake, and I dared not give a very encour- THE PENINSULA AND CALIFORNIA COMPARED. 67 aging report of his enterprise — one of the earhest colo- nizing plans begun in the State — in my book. Every Cahfornian knows what Riverside is now — with land selling at a thousand dollars per acre, and perhaps higher, and with its oranges, raisins, apricots, and other products famous all over the State and far beyond its boundaries. Water judiciously applied produced that magnificent result, and in ten years made a lovely and rich garden -spot out of what was originally a barren and most unpromising waste. I drove the length and breadth of the Fresno country in 1872, when even the cattle-men thought it too arid and desert for their cows; now it is one of the justly famous garden-spots of Cahfornia, rich with every prod- uct, from grain to raisins and other valuable fruits. The settlement of the Fresno country was also largely by colonies. The "colony plan," as it was called, was laughed at for a while in California. I have watched the develop- ment of several of the most noted experiments with care- ful interest, and I do not know of one in which the mem- bers held together for even eight or ten years, without every man becoming comfortably independent. There can be no better evidence of the expediency and advan- tage of settlement in "colonies" than Anaheim. Its founders were not even farmers ; they were, with scarce- ly an exception, city mechanics, unfamiliar with farm work. They were poor, and saved out of their earnings as mechanics a weekly or monthly sum to pay for their shares. They had one advantage — the services of an in- 68 PENINSULAR CALIFORNIA. telligent and faithful manager, who cared for their land and superintended their planting for them while they remained at work at their trades in San Francisco ; for they were too poor to go upon their land until their vines were ready to yield a crop. I never thought the place of their settlement the best that could have been selected, and have no doubt that with the knowledge of wine culture now common in California, they could have chosen a better location. They began in extreme poverty, and yet I beheve I am correct in saying that not one of the Anaheim colonists who held on but long ago became a man in comfortable and independent cir- cumstances, while some became wealthy. That part of Lower Cahfornia now open to settle- ment through the International Company offers many valuable advantages to farmers and manufacturers. Its more southern position naturally induces the earher ripening of such fruits as the orange and lemon, and will make profitable the cultivation of the banana and several other tropical fruits, for most of which the for- eign market would be in the United States. The tariff duty may be against the Lower Californian in these products ; but, on the other hand, he will have the com- mand of the earhest market, and therefore the highest prices, which will more than counterbalance the tariff. For all other agricultural products, from grain and beans to apricots and prunes, he wiU have the advan- tage of an unlimited market in Western Mexico, in which the Mexican tariff on flour, canned fruits, butter, cheese, etc., will be in his favor. This advantage is so THE PENINSULA AND CALIFORNIA COMPARED. 69 obvious and great that fruit -canneries, flour -mills, and other manufactories to prepare farm products for mar- ket are already being established at a number of points on the Peninsula ; and as the farming and fruit-growing population increases, and fruit-trees of various kinds come into bearing, the stimulus of the large market of Western Mexico, now supphed from San Francisco, will lead to the rapid increase of these and many other kinds of factories. CHAPTEK V. THE RELATION OF SETTLERS TO THE GOVERNMENT. — SPECIAL PRIVILEGES, 'T^HE special privileges granted by the Mexican Govern- -■- ment to "colonists" — which means settlers who reg- ister themselves under that name — are also extremely valuable. The purchaser of land in Lower Cahfornia from the International Company need not register him- self as a " colonist " unless he wants to, but it is so clear- ly to the profit of all to do so that few will omit it. To become a " colonist," he gives his name and Lower California address to the "Agent of Colonization" at Ensenada. He must at the same time bring from the International Company a certificate that he is a person of good habits and industrious character, and of the trade or profession he has followed. If he desires to retain his American or foreign citizenship he makes a declaration to that effect ; but if he waits more than six months after being enrolled to make such a declaration, he is thereupon regarded as a Mexican citizen. In either case, equally, whether he retains his origi- nal citizenship or becomes a Mexican citizen, he obtains as colonist the following important privileges, as speci- fied in the " Colonization Act :" RELATION OF SETTLERS TO GOVERNMENT, ETC, 73 "Article 7. The colonists settled in the republic will enjoy for a term of ten years from the date of their set- tlement the following privileges : " I. Exemption from all military service. "II. Exemption from all kinds of taxes [internal taxes are here meant]. " III. Exemption from import and domestic duties on provisions in places where there are no provisions; on working tools and implements ; machinery ; construc- tion materials for houses; house furniture; and breed- ing animals for the colony. "IV. Personal and untransferable exemption from duties on exportation of fruit raised in the colony." The colonists settling under the International Com- pany's grant have these privileges for twenty years instead of ten. The permission of free importation of agricultural tools, machinery, lumber for houses and fences, and fiu*- niture, joined to the exclusive enjoyment of the market of Western Mexico, from the United States Ime to Gua- temala, gives, it will be seen, very important advan- tages to the Lower California farmer and manufacturer. These are secured without prejudice to his original citi- zenship if he prefers to retain that, and without obliging him. to assume any obligations other than to keep the peace and obey the laws. In an appendix will be found parts of the Mexican tariff on imports now in force, which will enable any one to see by what duties those setting up manufactures in Lower California can gain an advantage. U PENINSULAR CALIFORNIA. The transfer of titles when lands are sold differs somewhat in form from that in the United States, but is simple and easily effected. Land titles are formally- recorded in books of record, kept in record-offices, just as in the United States ; the titles of purchasers from the International Company in Lower Cahfornia being re- corded at Ensenada. Each State or Territory is subdi- vided into districts which are similar to our counties, and in each such district there is an estabhshed place of record. The original deed is placed on file in the record- office, and is signed by both the vendor and purchaser. In the case of transfers amounting to five hundred dol- lars or less, the purchaser sends his deed to the district land-office — Ensenada — with a letter requesting that it be placed on record, and that some one — naming him^ may act as his agent in seeing the paper recorded and procuring a certified copy of it. Where a larger amount is involved, the purchaser must appear in person, or by legally authorized substitute holding his power of at- torney, before the registrar to have the deed properly signed and recorded. Concerning transfer of land titles, mortgages, and wills, I am allowed to print a letter from Mr. Eomero, the Mexican minister to the United States, which I have placed at the end of this chapter. The purchaser of land from the International Com- pany gets full and complete possession of his land, and does not bind himself to any condition of residence or improvement unless the sale is made subject to such conditions. He may sell freely, and in case of death may devise by will just as freely as in the United States, RELATION OF SETTLERS TO GOVERNMENT, ETC. 75 and the transfer to his heirs is made with no more for- malities or expense than in this country. If he should die intestate the Mexican law protects the rights of wid- ows and children. The following correspondence sets forth these matters in some detail : "Alpine, Beegen Co., N. J., Nov. 26, 1887. "Dear Mr. Romero, — When we were talking in your house, two weeks ago, about my long - entertained and at last realized desire to own land in Lower California, I asked you about the laws of inheritance in Mexico, and you very kindly said that if I would send you some questions on this and other matters pertaining to land ownership in your country, you would answer them. If it is not too much trouble, will you, therefore, kindly teU me, " 1. Whether transfer of land titles by sale or through inheritance is easily and securely made in Mexico ? "2. Whether the records of titles are so kept that encumbrances, such as mortgages, can be easily and securely ascertained from the record ? " 3. What, if any, are the legal hmits to the devise of lands by will ? " 4. Whether heirs under will or of an intestate have any more difficulty than with us in securing possession and good title to lands ? " 5 Whether foreclosure of mortgages on land is attended with any particular difficulty or expense other than with us ? 76 PENINSULAR CALIFORNIA. " 6. Finally, whether in your judgment as a lawyer famihar with the land laws of your own country and of the United States, land titles are as secure, when well founded and duly recorded, and can be as readily and accurately traced as with us ? " I am yours, very truly, "Charles Nordhoff. " To H. E. M. RoMEEO, Minister of Mexico." Translation. " Washington, N'ov. 28, 1887. "Mr. Charles Nordhoff, New York: " My Esteemed Friend and Sir, — In answer to your ♦ letter of the 26th instant, in which you ask various questions in regard to the acquisition of lands, the trans- fer of the respective titles whether by way of purchase, by inheritance under a last will, or in intestacy, under the laws of Mexico, I reply that, as Mexico has a repub- hcan, popular, federal government, each State makes laws governing that which relates to such matters, and that in order to properly answer your questions, it would be necessary to refer to the special legislation of each State. But as your purpose seems to be to become ac- quainted principally with the regulations in such cases ruling in the Territory of Lower Cahfornia, I inform you that said territory is governed by the Civil Code which was promulgated on the 31st day of March, 1884, for the Federal District and the territory aforesaid. "Under this code (Article 3184) at every town where RELATION OF SETTLERS TO GOVERNMENT, ETC. 77 there is a Judicial Court of First Instance, an office is established kno^vn as that of the Pubhc Registry. This Registry is di\aded (Article 3185) into four bureaus: the first, in which are registered deeds of conveyance of the title to real estate or of rights relating to realty, and various rights relating to mortgages charged upon such real estate ; the second the registry of mortgages ; the third the registry of leases, and the fourth the reg- istry of judgments. "All contracts and instruments *nfer vivos which transfer or affect the ownership, the possession, or the enjoyment of real estate or real rights imposed upon the same, must be recorded (3194) unless (8195) the prop- erty or rights do not exceed in value $500, in which case it is not necessary to record the same. "Such last wills as transfer the ownership of real estate or realty rights must also be registered (3197) after the death of the testator, and in case of intestacy (3198) the declaration made by the judge as to those who are the legitimate heirs and also the deed of parti- tion must be recorded. "Chapter III. of Title 23 of the Civil Code, Articles 8208 to 3218, fix the details of the manner of record- ing. "As to estates, the Civil Code provides (3328) that every person shall have the right to freely dispose of his property, by way of inheritance or bequest, and that such right is not limited (3824) except by the obligation upon him to leave provision for the support of descend- ants, the wife or husband surviving, and ascendants, in 78 PENINSULAR CALIFORNIA. conformity with the rules estabhshed under the same article. " In default of a last will, the code provides that the judge shall declare who are the heirs, and such decla- ration must be made in favor of the descendants, of the wife or husband surviving, and the ascendants and col- laterals, etc., in the order established in the same code. " I will add that, in my judgment, there are as many facilities to obtain the judicial acknowledgment of the rights of ownership in Mexico as there are in the United States, and so also as to collecting mortgages made on real estate; although the legislation of the two coun- tries is somewhat different on account of our following the provisions of the Eoman law and the United States those of the common law. " I am, sincerely and truly, " Your obedient servant, " M. EOMEEO." CHAPTER YI. LAND TITLES. A S there are no "public lands" in the northern part -^^ of the Peninsula, and settlers must deal with, and buy, and take title from, the International Company, the character and responsibility of this company, and the va- lidity of its charters and titles, are of course of the first importance to intending purchasers. As I stated in the preface, I made for my own satisfaction and security as a purchaser a careful examination of these things, and I give in some detail in this chapter the results of this in- vestigation. The International Company of Mexico exists under special charter from the State of Connecticut, recognized in its various grants and concessions by the Mexican Government; as in the formal "Certificate of title to lands owned between parallels 28° and 32° 42' in Lower Cahfomia," where it is designated as "The Mexican International Company of Hartford, Connecticut." The company is composed of a number of prominent and well-known business men of undisputed integrity and high character. Its capital is twenty million of dollars. Its responsibility, as well as the perfection of its conces- sions and titles, have been carefully examined by the 80 PENINSULAR CALIFORNIA. company's fiscal agents here and in England. Mr. John W. Battem, a well-known Parliamentary barrister and railway director of London, personally inspected the country, and also the concessions made by the Mexican Government to the International Company, looking into all questions on which settlers and investors would desire full information, and upon his report the company's ex- tensive operations in Europe were first based. Captain George Clark Cheape, of County Fife in Scot- land, a capitalist and large land-owner in three Scottish counties, after a careful examination of the company's titles, made a journey to Lower California, and after an examination of the company's lands, became largely in- terested in them. The operations of the International Company of Mex- ico cover a very wide field, as it has grants in other parts of Mexico ; and its Lower California concessions and work form only a part of its enterprises. Besides its grants for surveying, occupying, and colo- nizing the northern part of the Peninsula of Lower Cali- fornia, it has extensive grants of lands in the Mexican States of Sonora, Sinaloa, and Chiapas, together with rail- road charters in these States. Chiapas, which is the most tropical and one of the least-known of the Mexican States, adjoining and bordering upon the republic of Guatema- la, is also, by the accounts of Mexican writers, one of the richest States of the republic in its natural products and its capacity to grow profitably coffee, sugar, India-rubber, and many other valuable tropical products. It needs a railroad to open it to settlement and commerce. LAND TITLES. 83 The International Company holds a concession to build and operate a railroad in Lower California, to con- nect the Peninsula with the United States. The line of this railroad has already been surveyed, and will be found marked on the map which accompanies this volume. Its northerly connection will be, as shown on the map, with San Diego ; and this part of the line, to be built at once, will tap the various interior settlements now forming, as well as points at which gold and other minerals have been recently discovered. The easterly hne will cross the upper end of the Peninsula and pass through the States of Sonora and Chihuahua to El Paso. Under its concession for a railroad in Chiapas the company will build a hne from the Pacific port of San Benito to the Atlantic port of the Grijalba River. This will be a transcontinental hne. It will pass through the coffee lands and large untouched mahogany forests of Chiapas, and will tap also similar regions in neighboring Guatemala. The surveys of this line have been lately completed, and work on it has been commenced. The company further operates under a concession the guano islands of the Pacific and Gulf coasts of Mexico, especially in the Gulf of Cahfornia, where valuable phos- phate deposits are found. It has for some time past shipped, and is still shipping, about one thousand tons I)er month of this guano to Europe and to San Francisco, and employs in this work two steamers, several saihng- vessels, and about three hundred and fifty men. Its own steamers run regularly between San Diego and those Peninsular ports where settlements have been 5 84 PENINSULAR CALIFORNIA. formed, the connection between San Diego and Ensenada being tri-weekly, with a daily overland stage connection also. Its concessions or grants in Lower California were made on the condition of a complete and satisfactory survey of the region within their hmit. When tliis sur- vey was made and accepted by the Mexican Govern- ment, the company became thereby the owners of one- third of the vacant lands surveyed; and were entitled further to purchase the other two-thirds by a cash pay- ment at the price established by the Mexican Congress for pubhc lands. The required surveys in Lower California were begun at the stipulated time, completed and accepted by the Mexican Grovernment, and formally recorded in its De- partment of Works ; the cash payment, which, under the law, the company could have made in instalments, was made complete in one sum; and under date of "Mexi- co, October 20th, 1886," Mr. Pacheco, Minister of Pubhc Works, which is the equivalent of the Secretary of the Interior in the United States, certifies, " By direction of the President of the Eepubhc :" " That the titles of the property acquired by Messrs. Luis Huller & Co., whose Company has the name The International Company of Mexico (of Hartford), are per- fectly legal." He further certifies in the same document : " That the said Company have paid into the National Treasury the whole value [price] of said lands." He further adds : LAND TITLES. 85 " The Company may sell to Enterprises or individuals the lands under consideration in this communication, as it is expressly stipulated in the Contract of 21st of July, 1884, whether the purchasers are Mexicans or foreigners." That is to say, all the conditions on which the com- pany received its concessions, and holds in ownership its nearly sixteen million acres of land, are thus officially declared to have been fulfilled; the sole remaining obli- gation being to complete the settlement of the territory within ten years, in the proportion of one family to every 6175 acres ; but the grant admits and recognizes that the settlers or colonists may be located at their own conven- ience, and not of necessity upon each separate section of land. It is required only that a certain population shall be settled within the limits of the company's grant. The language of the "Certificate of Title" from the Govern- ment to the company on this point is : "A number of famihes may be established in one place or town, for the intent of the law is for the estab- hshment of colonies, the number of families according to the extent of territory." The company has also, under its charter and grant, the right to purchase land held by private ownership within its hmits, and it has actually purchased the ma- jority of such private holdings. It gives its own warran- tee deeds, which are confirmed by the Mexican authori- ties and duly recorded in the public office at Ensenada. The following details in regard to the International Company's Lower California grants and concessions are here added as interesting to intending settlers : 86 PENINSULAR CALIFORNIA. I. The concessions or grants were originally made by the President of Mexico, under the authority given him in a law of the Mexican Congress of December 15, 1883, known as the " Colonization Act." By this act the Pres- ident of the republic was authorized to make contracts with individuals and corporations for certain purposes, which are specified in the act. Article 24th of the Colo- nization Act is in these words : " The Executive may make contracts with companies for the introduction into the Republic of colonists and foreign immigrants and their settlement thereon, under the following conditions : " 1. The Companies must specify the exact period of time in which they are to introduce a certain number of colonists [ten years in the case of the International Company]. "2. Colonists or immigrants must be subject to the conditions established in Articles 5 and 6 of the present law." (Articles 5 and 6 require that all colonists shall get from the company a certificate that they are persons of good habits, and stating what occupation they have followed.) II. The Lower California grants under which the International Company holds are three in number, and were made to individual members of the International Company of Mexico, and by them legally and with the consent of the Mexican Government transferred to the company. The first, in the name of Adolf o BuUe, cov- ered the section between parallels 28° and 29°. The sec- ond, m the name of Telesforo Garcia, covered the right LAND TITLES. 87 to survey the public lands between latitude 29° and the United States boundary on 32° 22', taking for this serv- ice one -third of the public lands surveyed. The third concession is in the name of Luis HuUer, and covers the right to purchase for cash the remaining pubhc lands from latitude 29° to the United States boundary. All these grants were, as has been said, in due legal form, and with the consent of the Mexican authorities, made over to the International Company of Mexico. III. The conditions on which the International Com- pany received and accepted its various grants covering Lower Cahfornia were these : 1. That it should within a specified time file a bond in current funds with the Mexican Treasury Depart- ment, for the faithful and timely performance of its agreement. This was doiie. 2. That it should proceed within a prescribed time to begin its sur\^eying operations. This it did. 3. That the required surveys should be completed within another prescribed period. They were so completed. 4. That all its surveys and reports should be verified and accepted in a legal and formal manner by the proper authorities, and all the data recorded in the Of- fice of Public Works in the City of Mexico (eqiiivalent to our Interior Department) withm a prescribed time. All this toas done. 5. That a specified sum of money should be paid by the company into the Mexican Treasury, for the pur- chased lands, within a fixed period. This loas done. Fi- nally, 88 PENINSULAR CALIFORNIA. 6. That within ten years there should be settled within the territory granted it in Lower California, on the lands acquired, two thousand or more families as "colonists" — one hundred families to be settled within two years. Many more than one hundred families have been settled within the two years. IV. The Mexican Government, in making these con- cessions, stipulated, as is its invariable custom, that un- less the conditions of the grants should be fulfilled within the time fixed, the rights of the concessionaries should lapse and fail. If, therefore, the company had failed — 1. To pay certain bonds into the Treasury as an evi- dence of good faith, or 2. To begin its surveys within a specified time, or 3. If it had failed to complete this field-work within the stipulated time, or 4. If it had failed within the time limit to pay into the Mexican Treasury the cash sum required to com- plete the purchase of its lands — in case of any such failure the company's rights would have been forfeited. But as the Government's official certificates already quoted show that all the conditions were fulfilled as agreed, the company's titles are thus complete. V. There remains the final stipulation that the com- pany shall within two years settle one hundred families, which it has done, and within ten years two thousand LAND TITLES. 89 families, which it will certainly and easily be able to do. But the Government declares in the contract with the company that if the company should fail in the latter act, the Grovernment will place the remaining families there by its own action ; but in this case distinctly agrees that such failure on the company's part shall not in any way touch, invalidate, or interfere with the titles of set- tlers who have bought lands of the company. Article 24th of " Contract made between General Car- los Pacheco, Secretary of Public Works, representing the Executive of the Union, and Sres. Luis HuUer & Com- pany (The International Company of Mexico), for colo- nizing vacant lands in Lower California and Isle de Ce- dros," declares : " If the colonization is not effected, even although the demarcation, description, apportionment of the lands, and drawing up of the plans is all done, the lands sold to the Enterprise shall revert to the Nation, which shall not have to make any restitution of what it may have re- ceived for them. In the case of a part of the lands hav- ing been colonized in conformity with the clauses of this contract, only those lands shall revert to the Nation that have not been colonized; neither the colonists established nor the Enterprise shall be disturbed on account of the propor- tion of the lands assigned to the former at the rate of 2000 hectares [4940 acres] per family, inclusive of the land which may have been given to the colonists." It is thus certain that the company having fulfilled all its prehminary stipulations, and being authorized to sell to settlers of any nationality, and give deeds recog- 90 PENINSULAR CALIFORNIA. nized and confirmed by the Mexican Government, any- possible future complications of the company with the Government cannot affect those who may have mean- time purchased lands. VI. The company's grants do not cover the whole of Lower California, as Mr. J. B. Hale has a very large grant in the southern part of the Peninsula, where he gathers orchilla. The Hale grant is a strip of land fif- teen miles wide from the sea-shore, between latitude 29° and 23°. Mr. G. Andrade has another grant of about 800,000 acres of land lying in the valley of the Colorado River, which is the north-eastern boundary of the terri- tory. These grants do not trench upon or conflict with the International Company's territory. VII. The company's titles to its lands are officially recorded in the office of the Minister of Public Works, in the City of Mexico, and certified duplicate copies are on record in the town of Ensenada, which is the capital of the district of northern Lower California. VIII. The title-deeds given by the company to those who buy its lands are recorded in the proper office of record in Ensenada. IX. The title of the company being officially recog- nized as perfect, and its right to convey parts of its lands to others legal and complete, it remains only to add that when the company gives a deed, the purchaser and hold- er enters into full, unencumbered, and peaceable posses- sion of the land, without question or reservation of any kind — with only this possible exception : If a discovery of precious metals should be made by a third person on LAND TITLES. 91 his land, as gold, silver, or other mineral in the form of a lode or vein, the discoverer could, under Mexican laws, take up a claim in about the same form as in the United States, but before working it would have to give security that he would not disturb growing crops or interfere in any way with the rightful use of the surface of the ground ; that he would not by his underground work imperil the surface, nor disturb any habitation, or inter- fere in any other way with the peaceable enjoyment by the owner of all his rights in the lands. If the mineral discovered should be coal, marble, or valuable stone, this belongs to the owner of the land. CHAPTER VII. THE MEXICAN GOVERNMENT AND THE COMPANY. TN the fall of 1887 certain opposition journals and pub- ■^ lie men in the city of Mexico criticised President Diaz and his administration for his colonization policy, suggesting that it was not in consonance with the laws of Congress, and that it was not calculated to benefit the country. The concessions granted in Lower California to the International Company were, among others, at- tacked in this way. President Diaz at once caused the proper officers of the Government to answer in detail every objection which had been offered, and the reply, when completed, was published in a considerable pamphlet, of which I have a copy, and in which it is shown clearly : 1. That the various colonization concessions have been made in strict and absolute conformity to the laws of Congress. 2. That the concessionaries have been in every case held by the Government to a strict fulfilment of all the conditions. 3. That the new land policy declared by the Congress during the administration of President Gonzalez, and carried into effect by President Diaz, has been of great THE MEXICAN GOVERNMENT AND THE COMPANY. 95 benefit to Mexico, and was a change very much needed from a former ineffective and expensive system. Under the old system in force previous to the passage of the Colonization Act of December, 1883, the Govern- ment founded colonies and maintained them at its own cost and expense. These experiments were not success- ful ; but they cost the treasury large sums, as will be seen by the official returns for only a few years : ^Statement of the Sums expended on the Colonies founded by the Government. Depaktment op Public Works, Colonization, Industry, AND Commerce, Section 6. Mexico, December 4, 1887. Fiscal Years. Sums Expended. 1881 to 1882 $473,057 32 1882 to 1883 725,178 70 1883 to 1884 290,289 42 1884 to 1885 41,104 76 1885 to 1886 15,226 10 1886 to 1887 41,567 75 Caelos K. Ruiz, the Chief of the Section. The moderate expenditures since 1884 are for the con- tinued maintenance of Government colonies, which, as the report shows, are not progressing. Under the Colonization Act of 1883, this drain upon the Treasury, for in the most cases futile attempts, has ceased. Under the new system, the Government, as the report shows, is relieved even of the cost of surveys of its pubhc lands; and it receives money payment for so much of these lands as it grants to colonizing com- panies, these taking the risks of the enterprise and for- feiting all their expenditures and their unsold lands 96 PENINSULAR CALIFORNIA. if they do not fulfil all the conditions, which include, of course, the settlement of people on these lands. Mr. Pacheco, the Minister of Hacienda, having recited all the various colonization laws adopted during sixty years, from 1823 to 1883, shows in detail how all except the last had failed, and why. He remarks that Mexico lived too long in isolation, to the impoverishment of her people and her government; he shows how the United States, AustraUa, and in more recent times the Argen- tine Republic, have prospered by a more liberal course, and says : "The isolation which was forced on us during the colonial period, keeping us estranged to all scientific and industrial progress of Europe, pauperized us to such a degree that our population and our governments have been at times in absolute indigence, and that in the pres- ence of a prodigality of natural resources. " The only perceptible prosperity now enjoyed by us, of which the gradual increase is incontestable, coincides exactly with the practice of a more liberal policy, which, by facilitating the entrance of foreign capital and labor, adds daily to the public wealth, brings funds to the Treasury, gives us credit abroad, raises us from day to day to a higher level of reputation, respectabihty, and power. It may be, therefore, taken as incontestable that the country needs to attract the aid of foreign labor and capital." Having thus discussed the policy of the Colonization Law of 1883, and the beneficent results flowing from it, Mr. Pacheco shows : THE MEXICAN GOVERNMENT AND THE COMPANY. 97 1. That this, the latest law on the subject, superseded all others relating to colonization : "The law of 15th December, 1883, is the only law on colonization now in force, and in its Article 31 it abolish- es all preyious laws on the subject, in the following terms : "Article 31. All laws on colonization anterior to the present are abohshed." 2. He proceeds to compare the acts of the Govern- ment under this law with the law itself ; and coming to the concessions made to the International Company in Lower California, he compares the contract of this com- pany with the law, article by article, proving at every step, by this close and accurate analysis, that the con- tract and concession were in fact drawn with remark- able care to follow in every detail the provisions of the Colonization Law. So far from having exceeded the law, he shows that the Government exacted everything the law required, and in its care for the pubhc interest took safeguards and required conditions not called for in the law, except by fair inference. He concludes in these words : "It is proved in the foregoing analysis that the con- tract made with the citizen Luis Huller is strictly with- in the prescriptions of the law, and if there is anything in the contract that is not contained in the law, it is the precautions that the Government has taken within its powers on behalf of the Nation and the colonists." He adds that it has thus " been clearly demonstrated that the Executive has walked step by step by the letter, 98 PEXDsSULAE CALIFORXIA. and duly interpreted the spirit of the law in forming the stipulation of the two contracts with Huller and Bnlle, and has continued, but still improving them, the traditions of previous govern ments."' Finally, Mr. Pacheco shows that the Congi'ess had already discussed and scrut ini zed the question of the Lower California and other grants made under the law of 1883, and had by its express action sanctioned and approved all these acts of the Executive : '•'It is proper to recall here the report rendered by the undersigned to the National Representative Assembly on the 17th October, 1885, concer ni ng the proposition approved by that assembly that the Department of Pub- he Works should report on all the contracts that have been made for the demarcation and colonization of un- occupied lands from the 1st December, 1876, up to that date, in which number are included the contracts made with Messrs. Huller and Bulle, which I have just dis- cussed. That report gave origin to prolonged and lumi- nous debates, and, as soon as the propriety of ah the proceedings of the Grovemment was clearly shown, the Chamber of Deputies rejected the proposition that had been offered by some of its members for an addition to be made to the law of December 15th, 1883, forbidding the Executive to make any contract relating to unoccu- pied lands without previously submitting it to Congress for approval; thus sanctioning the course followed by the administration and disposing of the charges which were even then also being made against the Department of Pubhc Works of having exceeded the powers accorded THE MEXICAN GOVERNMENT AND THE COMPANY. 99 to it by the law. The report to which I allude, together with justificatory documents, was printed by order of the Chamber on the 19th October of the same year and circulated in profusion." This official pubhcation of the Mexican Government of course settles all questions which could be raised as to the validity and legahty of the concessions and con- tracts it has made with the International Company. But it does much more than this. It exhibits the hberal and enlightened spirit which has now the lead in Mexican affairs, and no one can read Mr. Pachecos report without gaining full confidence in the settled and increasing prosperity of the repubhc. The "pohcy of isolation." which Mr. Pacheco con- demns, and which ceased when the Congress passed the Colonization Law of IS S3, was the most dangerous pohcy to Mexico. To exclude immigration or tolerate it only under intolerable conditions, forced foreigners to cast covetous eyes on the Mexican domain. It alone gave rise to constant schemes of annexation and revolution- ary separation. To forbid or make difficult and inse- cure the entry of capital and labor from without, neces- sarily united capital, labor, and enterprise in hostihty to Mexico, and led to schemes against the integrity of her territory. To welcome capital and labor and make both seom-e makes these her friends and allies, and unites them in a common interest with her. Hence the enlightened spuit which led the Congress to adopt the law of 1SS3. and which has led President Diaz and his administration to 100 PENINSULAR CALIFORNIA. carry out with liberal zeal this act, is the best guaran- tee Mexico can have of a future secure against attempts upon her territory, and of additions to her population having mutual interests with her people, and sure under the force of such mutual interests to be true to her and to become a part of her people and her wealth. APPENDIX A. TAELES OF TEMPERATURE AND RAINFALL. Tempeeattjee observations cover only the short period since com- petent observers were at hand to record them — about two years ; and the following tables apply to the region of Todos Santos Bay. The interior valleys are hotter, the elevated mountain regions cooler. The rainfall varies also. In the mountain region it rains in midsummer as well as in winter, and the annual rainfall is greater than on the Pa- cific coast. I have been unable to secure complete daily returns for a whole year. In a new country observers are apt to be sent off to other work, and thus the records are incomplete. The reports I give show the greatest heat of the summer months and the lowest tem- pei-ature of the winter, with the daily variations. These are the facts which physicians and invalids most need. MEAN MONTHLY TEMPERATURE AT ENSENADA, OBSERVED DURING THE TWO YEARS (1886-88). 7 a.m. 8 p.m. January 50.0° ...62.4° February 51.1 ...62.3 March 52.8 . ..63.3 April 54.5 ...65.6 .... May 58.6 ...68.2 June 62.5 ...71.6 .... July 65.5 ...74.2 August 67.0 ...75.7 .... September 63.7 ...74.5 October 64.7 ...74.5 November 54.5 ...67.7 .... December 52.0 ...64.7 11 P.M. .54.6° . 55.0 .56.9 .59.0 .62.2 .65.2 .67.6 .69.4 .69.4 .67.6 .58.6 .56.1 104 APPENDIX A. The following are detailed daily RECORDS OF TEMPERATURE AT ENSENADA, LOWER CALIFORNIA, FOR THE MONTHS NAMED. JULY, 1887. Max. for Min. for Variation Date. 8 a.m. 12 m. 4 P.M. 24 hrs. 24 hrs, for 24 ire. July 11... ..66°.. ...71°.. 69°... 72° 64° 8° 12.. . ..65 ... ...70 .. 69 .. . 70 62 8 13... ..66 ... ...69 .. 69 ... 70 64 6 14... ..65 ... ...68 .. 66 ... 69 64 5 15... ..64 ... ...68 .. 68 ... ...70 62 8 16 ..66 ... ...71 .. 66 ... . ..71 63 8 17.... ..68 ... ...70 .. 66 ... . ..72 63 9 18 ..68 ... ...73 .. ....70 ... ...74 64 10 19.... ..64 ... ...74 .. . . ..74 ... 75 62 13 20... ..65 ... ...74 .. ....74 ... ...75 58 17 21 ..67 ... ...72 .. . ..74 ... ...76 60 16 22 ..68 ... ...74 .. ....73 ... . ..78 62 16 23 ..69 ... ...75 .. 74 ... ...78 63 15 24.... ..66 ... ...72 .. 68 ... . ..72 63 9 25 ..68 ... ...72 .. ...70 ... . ..74 63 11 26 ..65 ... ...72 .. . . ..72 ... ...74 62 12 27.... ..68 ... ...75 .. ... 74 ... .. .76 62 14 28 ..69 ... ...75 .. ....73 ... . ..75 65 10 29 ..72 ... ...74 .. ...70 ... ...75 62 13 30 ..65 ... ...72 .. . ..72 ... . ..75 62 13 31 ..68 ... ...72 .. ...70 ... ...74 63 11 RECORD OF TEMPERATURE AT ENSENADA, LOWER CALIFORNIA, AUGUST, 1887. Max. for Min. for Variation Date. 8 a.m. 12 m. 4 p.m. 24 hrs. 24 hrs. for 24 hrs. Aug. 1 ..65°... . ..73°.. . . . 70° . . . . ..73° 60° 13° 2 ..65 ... . ..71 .. . ..69 ... . ..72 62 10 3 ..62 ... ...70 .. ...70 ... ...72 57 15 4 ..60 ... ...72 .. . ..70 ... ...73 69 14 5 ..65 ... . ..72 .. ...70 ... ...72 62 10 6.... ..64 ... . ..75 .. ...74 ... . ..78 62 16 7.... ..65 ... . ..75 .. ...74 ... . ..76 63 13 8 ..66 ... . ..69 .. . ,.67 ... . ..70 62 8 9 ..65 ... ...70 .. . ..69 ... .. .72 62 10 10 ..66 ... . ..74 .. . ..73 ... ...75 65 10 . APPENDIX A. 105 RECORD OF TEUPERATURE AT ENSENADA, LOWER CALIFORNIA, AUGUST, 1887 C07tti7lU€d. Max. for llin. for Variation Date. 8 a.m. 12 m. 4 p.m. 21 Iirs. 24 brs. for 24 hrs. Aug. 11 68° 71° 70° 77° 64° 13° " 12 62 73 74 74 62 12 ■ " 13 64 70 69 71 63 8 " 14 65 73 70 73 62 11 " 15 65 73 70 75 64 10 " 16 66 72 70 72 63 9 " 17 65 70 69 70 59 11 •' 18 67 72 70 73 63 10 " 19 68 72 78 79 64 15 " 20 69 74 79 79 67 12 " 21 64 72 72 75 63 12 " 22 66 75 75 76 63 13 " 23 66 70 69 71 64 7 " 24 67 76 70 71 65 6 " 25 66 71 70 72 57 15 " 26 67 72 69 73 59 14 " 27 65 72 70 72 60 10 " 28 65 72 70 73 57 16 " 29 66 71 70 72 61 11 " 30 68 72 71 72 62 10 " 31 62 65 67 72 57 15 TEMPERATURE AT ENSENADA FOR SEPTEMBER, 1887. Dale. Maximum. Minimum. Variation. Septeml ler 1 72° 60° 12° 2 75 62 13 3 69 60 9 4 70 61 9 5 6 71 74 62 9 56 18 78 .58 ''0 8 73 54 19 9 71 61 10 10 71 60 11 11 70 63 7 Rain. 106 APPENDIX A. TEMPERATURE AT ENSENADA FOR SEPTEMBER, 1881— Continued. Date. Maximum. Minimum. Variation. ptembei 12. 13. 72°... 64° . 8° . 7 72 ... 65 14. 74 ... 65 . 9 15. 70 .... 60 .10 16. 73 ... 64 . 9 17. 75 .... 60 .15 18. 74 ... 63 .11 19. 74 .... 62 .12 . . . Eain. 20. 76 .... 68 . 8 21. 79 .... 71 . 8 22. 77 ... 74 . 3 . . . Bain. 23. 24. 25. 72 64 . 8 .10 .10 72 62 72 .... 62 26. 72 .... 62 .10 27. 72 .... 64 . 8 28. 29. 74 .... 76 .... 68 66 . 6 .10 30. 76 .... 64 .12 TEMPERATURE AT ENSENADA FOR OCTOBER , 1887. Date. Maximum. Minimum. Variation tober 1 72° .66° ... 6° " 2 72 .... .62 .64 . . .10 " 3 72 ... 8 " 4 72 .62 ...10 " 5 76 .64 ...12 " 6 72 72 .64 ... 8 " 1 .64 ... 8 " 8 72 .62 ...10 9 72 .60 ...12 " 10 74 .62 ...12 « 11 76 .63 ...13 " 12 77 77 .64 .... . . .13 " 13 .64 . ..13 " 14 78 .65 . ..13 " 16 76 .64 . ..12 APPENDIX A. 107 TEMPERATURE AT ENSENADA FOR OCTOBER, l8S1—Co>ilinuer> feet still higher. In many places the surbce of the country was found to be as level as a prairie, the pasturage magnificeit. The wild oats and rye, bufelo, bim^ch, and other varie- ties of grasses w"s« kneeiigh to the mules. Deer, black and white iaSL, and moios&deep, seen by the hundred ; antelope abound on the mesas south, and mountain dieep near Rosarito in the south -wigst. Large streams of water abound everywhere, and springs were found at an altitude of 11.000 fe^ It rained five times in June, fifteen in July, seventeen in August, and sixteen in September. A little over thirty inches of water f dl in li^e raros. Most of these rains were accompanied by thunder and lightning. Only four trees were found that had been struck by lightning during ibe present season, and seven the year before. One place was found where thirty-three trees on one acre had been struck by lightning. Brook trout were seen in two streams. APPENDIX B. 123 The following tree-measurements were ^arefull}' made : FIRST ACRE. SECO.XD ACRE. THIRD ACRE. Trees. Circumference. 1 Trees. Circumference. Trees. Diameter. 1 6 ft. 7 in. 1 12 ft, 1 in. 1 10 ft. 8 in. 2... 6 " 2 " 2 11 ' 9 " 2 9 " 6 " 3... 8 " 6 " 3 11 ' 11 ' 3 8 " 8 " 4.. . 8 " " 4 5 ' 1 ' 4.... 7 " 4 " 5... 10 " 1 " 5 8 ' 5 ' 5 8 " 8 " 6... 6 " 10 " 6 10 ' 10 ' 6 6 " 8 " 7. . . 6 " 8 " 7.... 10 ' 8 ' 7 9 " 8 " 8... 5 " 4 " 8 8 ' 4 ' 8.... 10 " 4 " 9... 12 " 6 " 9 3 ' 4 ' 9 9 " 2 " 10... 7 " 4 " 10 6 ' 9 ' 10 5 " 4 " 11... 12 " 11 " 11 11 ' ' 11 9 " 9 " 12... 8 " 7 " 12 11 ' ' 12.... 8 " 2 " 13... 7 " 10 " 13 15 ' 6 ' 13 9 " 9 " 14... 12 " 8 " 14 5 ' 3 ' 14 11 " 8 " 15... 8 " 11 " 15 12 ' 4 ' 15 17 " 9 " 16... 11 " 1 " 16 11 ' 6 ' 16 12 " 7 " 17... 10 " 2 " 17.... 9 ' ' Av. dia. 9 " 4 " Av. dia 3 " " Av. dia. 3 " 3 " Averaging four logs to each tree. The first two acres are yeUow pine, the third white pine. Later on we shall give the measurement of cedar and spruce, also of a few acres of trees including the largest number of them. The railroad to Yuma wiU pass within thirty miles of the north end, the best portion of this fine belt of pine. Colonel Allen carefully looked over the route from San Matias Canon and Valle Trinidad to the pines for a railroad. He says there are no diflBculties in the first twenty miles, and that there wiU not be more than eight to ten nules of heavy work, and this not of the heaviest kind. He thinks there may be three to five miles of very heavy work. The San Eafael River has five branches, every one of which he followed from its source to the main stream, and he thinks that by building two or three small and inexpensive dams water enough can be stored to float all of these logs down to the upper San Rafael Valley, or to the point where the San Quintin wagon -road crosses the San Rafael at Dwarty's; that this same water can be taken from there to irrigate all of the north and south grand mesas — 210,000 acres of splendid land. APPENDIX C. THE RECENT GOLD DISCOVERIES ON THE PENINSULA. From the Son Diego " Sun." Gold in considerable quantities has been received in this city from the placer mines of the Eeal del Castillo, Lower California, since the beginning of the rainy season. The gold found in the vicinity of the Eeal is coarse and of fine quality, valued at a little over twenty dol- lars per ounce. For years past gold has been taken out by Indians and others during rainy seasons or at times when there was stand- ing water in the gulches. The most primitive means of mining were used, namely, the batia, or wooden pan, pick, and shovel. "Wealthy syndicates from time to time endeavored to obtain a foothold and in- troduce modern apphances, but owing to the laws of Mexico then in force, a concession could not be obtained, so that these grand pros- pects were repeatedly abandoned. It was not until the laws were changed that an extensive mineral concession was obtained by T. Masac, under which the Lower Cahf ornia Mining Company was incor- porated, Avith a capital stock of $5,000,000. The company is a home institution, and, backed as it is, will prove its faith by its works. Al- ready a considerable amount of mining machinery has been purchased, and the determination expressed by its managers to have a plant of hydraulic giants at work before the close of the present year. Prac- tical as well as scientific miners have reported favorably upon the property, so that an assurance of success is fairly guaranteed. There are, besides placers, many fine quartz gold-ledges which wiU be worked simultaneously, so that the outlook for the company is flattering. APPENDIX C. 125 From the Ensenada '■'■Lower CcHifornicunP DISTANCES TO THE GOLD-MINES. From Ensenada to Real del Castillo 30 miles " " Jacalitos via Real del Castillo 45 " " " Juarez " " and Jacalitos V5 " " " CampNa'l" " " Hansons 75 " " " Socorro " " " Trinidad 160 " " " " " Santo Tomas and San Telmo 145 " " " Valledares via " " " 140 " " " " " Real del C. and V. Trinidad 165 " " " Rosarito " " " " 200 " " " AguaDulce" " " " 250 " •' " " " Santo Tomas and San Telmo 230 " " " San Quintin overland 161 " " " " by water 110 " " " San Tehno by land 100 " " " Valle Ti'inidad via Real del Castillo 110 " " " Santa Catarina " " 100 " " San Quintin to Socorro via Santo Domingo 75 " " " " " San Telmo 95 " " " Valledares via " 85 " " " " " Santo Domingo 65 " " San Diego to Real del Castillo overland 100 " " " Ensenada overland 110 " There is plenty of water and feed for animals everywhere on the road. The longest stretch of road without water is from Eeal del Castillo to Sangre de Cristo, fifteen miles, and from San Quintin to Santo Domingo, twenty-seven miles. Three miles north of San Quin- tin there is water, but no wood. Provisions can be obtained at Ensenada, Eeal del Castillo, and probably soon at San Quintin. Flour is worth §3.50 per sack of 48 lbs.; bacon, ham, and lard, 40 cents per lb.; beef, fresh, 12J cents, dry jerked, 25 cents ; colfee 40 cents, sugar 20 cents, tea $2 per lb.; bak- ing-powder G2^ cents per lb.; potatoes 3 cents, onions 6 cents, beans 5 cents per lb., and everything else in proportion. Mules are worth $70 to $75 each, burros $15 to $16 each, very 126 APPENDIX C. scarce — in fact, hardly to be had. Horses can be bought for from $40 to $60 each. These are the small native horses. Teams with wagons can go to the Eeal del Castillo, Juarez* Campo Nacional, Santa Catarina, and to San Jose, above San Telmo ; also within ten miles of Socorro and fifteen miles of YaUedares, but cannot reach either Jacalitos, Socorro, YaUedares, Eosarito, or Agua Dulce. Parties going to the mines should come provided with means to re- main for not less than six months, funds suflBcient for tools, provisions, animals, and for a complete outfit, so as not to be left in a new coun- try without friends or cash — stranded on an unknown shore. APPENDIX D. THE MEXICAN TAEIFF. The following articles are admitted duty free : Acids, sulphuric, chloridic, and phenic. Anchors, with or without their iron chains, for vessels. Animals, alive, of all classes, except geldings. Apparatus for extinguishing fires with six charges. Arsenic, white. Asbestos in powder. Bags, made, ordinary, of jute, pita (thread made of the agave), henequen, and other analogous fibres for exporting fruits. Barrels and pipes (casks) of wood, set up or knocked down. Bars of steel, cylindrical or eight-sided, for mines. Books and music, printed, in paper covers. Boxes of common wood, set up or knocked down. Bricks. Cable or rope of aloe or hemp measuring up to three centimetres in diame- ter, or 94.2 millimetres in circumference. Cable of iron or steel wire of all sizes. Chlorate, bisulphate, sulphate, and trisulphate of lime. Clay, sand, and blotting-sand. Clocks for towers and public edifices. Coaches and cars for railways of all systems. Coal of all classes. Cork in bulk or in sheets. Crucibles of all materials and sizes. Earth, refractory. Eggs- Emery in powder or in grain. Feed, dry, in straw. 128 APPENDIX D. Fish, fresh. Glycerine, not perfumed. Gold, silver, and platina, in bullion or in dust. Hoops of iron, witli their rivets, for binding packages. Hops. Houses, complete, of wood and iron. Hyposulphate of soda. Iron and steel made into rails for railways. Knives, ordinary cutlasses without sheaths (machetes), scythes, sickles, rakes, shovels, pickaxes, spades, hoes, and mattocks of iron or steel for agriculture. Letters, plates, spaces, vignettes, type, and other tools for printing and litho- graphing. Lime, common, hydraulic, and Roman cement. Machines and apparatus of all classes, not specified, for industries, agricult- ure, mining, arts, and sciences, and their separate parts or pieces for repairs when imported with the machinery, or separately, and that are not comprehended in note 24 of section 2. Masts for large or small vessels. Mineral stone (ore and native metal). Money, legal, of gold or silver, of all countries. Oars for vessels. Periodicals and catalogues, printed. Plants and seeds for horticulture. Ploughs and their shares. Poison for preparing skins. Pumice-stone. Powder-wicking, fuses, and explosive mixtures for mines. Precious stones. Quicksilver. Rags, pieces of paper, and pulps of all classes for the fabrication of paper. Saltpetre, whether nitrate of potassa or of soda. Slate for roofs from two to three millimetres in thickness. Soda, caustic. Steam-engines of all classes, locomotives, and other implements for the con- struction of railways of all systems. Sulphate of ammonia. Sulphate of copper. Tiles of clay, all classes. Timber (lumber). Tin in sheets up to forty centimetres in length by thirty in breadth, when not stamped or painted. APPENDIX D. 129 Tubing of iron or lead of all dimensions. Vaccine matter. Vessels of all classes, on their naturalization, sale, or introduction. Whiting, Spanish. Wire, copper, insulated with any material whatever, for electric lights, pro- vided that the diameter of the wire itself be up to No. 6, Birmingham measure, and that its destination be proven by the interested parties. Wire, iron, with hooks, for binding packages. Wire, iron, barbed, for fencing, and the fasteners, provided they are imported with the same wire. Wire for telegraphs and telephones, the destination of which shall be proven on importation by the interested parties. Wood. Besides the above, the folio-wing articles are allowed to enter duty free to colonists for their own consumptionj but of course not for sale or traffic. Coffee, Butter, Yeast powder, Cheese, Sugar, Carpets, Dried fruit. Potatoes, Rice, Wagons, Condiments, Harness, Ham, Common furniture. Cooking utensils, Doors, windows. Bacon, Animals, Coal oil, nails, paint, hard- Flour, Lard, Household goods, ware for building. Thus it will be seen that the colonists in the Peninsula may bring in, either under the general free hst or under the special colonial list, all that they need to establish themselves and to maintain themselves until they are well settled : houses, furniture, tools and implements, provisions, animals, wood for fencing and other purposes — in fact, whatever a farmer or settler would need in a new countrj-, but no luxuries, such as pianos. On the other hand, the duties on many articles imported into Mex- ico are high ; and this has been already found an advantage to persons estabhshing themselves in manufactures in Lower California, as the whole market of the, Mexican Kepublic is open to them for the sale of their manufactures, with a heavy tariff against foreign goods of like 130 APPENDIX D. character ; and regular lines of steamers now connect Peninsular ports with the ports of continental Mexico. Thus, under the Mexican tariff, flour, dried and preserved fruits, cheese, butter, pork and other meats, furniture and other manufact- ures of wood, carriages and wagons, harness, saddlery, shoes and other manufactures of leather, and many other articles of general consumption, pay high duties when imported. THE END. CHARLES NORDHOFF'S WORKS. PENINSULAR CALIFOENIA. Peninsular California : Some Account of the Climate, Soil, Productions, and Present Condition chiefly of the Northern Half of Lower California. By Chaeles Noedhoff. With Illustrations and Maps. 8vO; Cloth, $1 00 ; Paper, 75 cents. COMMUNISTIC SOCIETIES OF THE UNITED STATES. The Communistic Societies of the United States, from Per- sonal Visit and Observation ; including Detailed Accounts of the Economists, Zoarites, Shakers, the Amana, Oneida, Bethel, Aurora, Icarian, and other existing Societies ; their Religious Creeds, Social Practices, Numbers, Industries, and Present Condition. By Chaeles Noedhoff. Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, S-i 00. Mr. Nordhoflf has derived his materials from personal observation, having visited the principal communistic societies in the United States, and taken diligent note of the peculiar features of their religious creed and practices, their social and domestic customs, and their industrial and financial arrange- ments. ... In pursuing his researches, Mr. Nordhoflf was obliged to take ex- tensive journeys, travelling from Maine to Kentucky and Oregon. With his exceptionally keen powers of perception, and his habits of practised obser- vation, he could not engage in such an inquiry without amassing a fund of curious information, and with regard to facts which have never been fully disclosed to the comprehension of the public. In stating the results of his investigations, he writes with exemplary candor and impartiality, though not without the exercise of just and sound discrimination. He views the subject in its practical hearings, free from a cavilling and censorious spirit. and equally free from the poetical enthusiasm which would clothe a novel experiment with the coloring of romance. — N. Y. Tribune. CAPE COD AND ALL ALONG SHOEE. Cape Cod and All Along Shore : Stories. By Charles Nokdhoff. 4to, Paper '[FrankUn Sq^uare Lih'ary\ 15 cents. As a story-teller, Jlr. NordhoCf has many points of unusual excellence. His style is terse and lucid, his characters are lifelike, and drawn with strength and precision of touch, and his narrative moves on swiftly and with dramatic force. — Independent, N. Y. Mr. Nordhoff has the faculty of portraying the idiosyncrasies of human nature in a most .skilful manner, and, at the same time, of mingling with his stories much of the philosophy of human life. — Albany JourmH.. Have charmed many readers. — N. Y. Cnmmercial Advertiser. Light, clever, well-written sketches. — N. Y. Times. A lively and agreeable volume, full of humor and incident. — Boston Transcript. Charles Nordhoff^s Works. POLITICS rOK YOUNG AMERICANS. Politics for Young Americans. By Chables Noedhoff. 16mo, Cloth, Half Leather, 75 cents ; Paper, 40 cents. It would be difBcult to find, indeed, a safer guide for a young man getting ready to "cast his first ballot." — Nation, N. Y. A short and very clear account of the reason of governments, the things ■which government can and ought to do, and the things which it cannot do and ought not to attempt, and the principles which ought to prevail in its treatment, by legislation or administration, of the things which properly come within its province. It is thus a treatise of political ethics and of political economy, and an excellent one. — N. T. World. It is a book that should be in the hand of every American boy and girl. ... It is a complete system of political science, economical and other, as ap- plied to our American system. — N. T. Herald. In the following pages I have attempted to explain, in simple language, and by familiar illustrations fitted for the comprehension of boys and girls, the meaning and limits of liberty, law, government, and human rights, and thus to make intelligible to them the political principles on which our sys- tem of government in the United States is founded. The book grew out of an attempt, in a few letters, to instruct my oldest son in the political knowl- edge which every American boy ought to possess to fit him for the duties of citizenship. I found my subject much larger than I at first imagined, but interest in the attempt led me on, and what was begun originally for one boy is here printed for the use of others. — Mxiract from Preface. GOD AND THE FUTUEE LIFE. God and the Future Life. The Reasonableness of Christi- anity. By Chaeles Noedhoff. 16mo, Cloth, $1 00. Mr. Nordhoff's object is not so much to present a religious system as to give practical and sufficient reasons for every-day beliefs. He writes strong- ly, clearly, and in the vein that the people understand. — Boston Herald. Thoughtful, profound, and lucid. . . . Simple in its form, and written so as to be understood by children, the volume is one of the most powerful arguments against doubt and inlidelity that has lately appeared. It is this partly because of its point of view, which is that of a man who looks at life practically and reasons with the utmost candor and fairness. The author's clear mind and positive convictions are perfectly imaged in his direct and forcible style. — Hartford Courant. The value of the book lies in its power of statement. It deals with the ideas of modern thinkers after a simple but trenchant style, and presents in forcible and direct language the reasonings which have most weight with ordinary men and women.- — Boston Advertiser. A plain, straightforward, earnest appeal to the honest sense of thinking people. ... It inculcates the value and honor of work, and the need and power of honesty in all things, and is really sound to the core. — Philadelphia Times. Published by HARPER & BROTHERS, New York. r Hakper & Brothers will send any of the above works by mail, postage prepaid, to any pari of the United States or Canada, on receipt of the price. VALUABLE WORKS OF EXPLORATION AND ADVENTURE. Charnay's Ancient Cities of the New World. The Ancient Cities of the New World : being Voyages and Explorations in Mex- ico and Central America, from 1857 to 1882. By Desire Charnat. Translated from the French by J. Gonino and Helen S. Conant. Introduction by Allen Thorndike Rice. 209 Illustrations and a Map. Royal 8vo, Ornamental Cloth, Uncut Edges, Gilt Top, $6 00. Squier's Nicaragua. Nicaragua: its People, Scenery, Monuments, Resources, Condition, and Proposed Canal." With One Hundred Maps and Illustrations. By E. G. Sqcier, M.A., F.S.A. 8vo, Cloth, $4 00. Squier's Peru. Peru : Incidents of Travel and Exploration in tie Land of the Incas. By E. G. Squier, M.A., F.S.A. Illustrated. Svo, Cloth, $5 00. Cesnola's Cyprus. Cyprus ■ Its Ancient Cities, Tombs, and Temples. A Narrative of Researches and Excavations during Ten Years' Residence in that Island. By General Louis Palma di Cesnola, Member of the Royal Academy of Sciences, Turin ; Hon. Member of the Royal Society of Literature, London, &c. With Maps and Illus- trations. Svo, Cloth, Gilt Tops and Uncut Edges, $7 50 ; Half Calf, $10 00. Bishop's Old Mexico and Her Lost Provinces. A Journey in Mexico, Southern California, and Arizona, by Way of Cuba. By William Henry Bishop. With numerous Illustrations, chiefly from Sketches by the Author. 12mo, Cloth, $2 00. "Wallace's Malay Archipelago. Tlie Malay Archipelago: the Land of the Orang-Utan and the Bird of Paradise. A Narrative of Travel, 1854-62. With Studies of Man and Nature. By Alfred Rdssel Wallace. With Maps and numerous Illustrations. New Edition. Crown 8vo, Cloth, |2 50. "Wallace's Island Life. Island Life • or. The Phenomena of Insular Faunas and Floras, with their Causes. Including an entire Revision of the Problem of Geological Climates. By Alfred RossEL Wallace. With Illustrations and Maps. Svo, Cloth, $4 00. ■Wallace's Geographical Distribution of Animals. The Geographical Distribution of Animals. With a Study of the Relations of Living and Extinct Faunas, as elucidating the Past Changes of tlie Earth's Sur- face. By Alfred Rdssel Wallace. With Colored Maps and numerous lUus- trations by Zwecker. 2 vols., 8vo, Cloth, $10 00. 2 Valuable Works of Exploration and Adventure. Stanley's Congo, and the Founding of its Free State. A Story of Work and Exploration. By Henry M. Stanley. Dedicated by Spe- cial Permission to H. M. the King of the Belgians. In 2 vols., 8vo, Cloth, with over One Hundred full-page and smaller Illustrations, two large Maps, and sev- eral smaller ones. Cloth, $10 00 ; Half Morocco, $15 00. Stanley's Through the Dark Continent. Through the Dark Continent; or, The Sources of the Nile, Around the Great Lakes of Equatorial Africa, and Down the Livingstone River to the Atlantic Ocean. By Henry M. Stanley. With 149 Illustrations and 10 Maps. 2 vols., 8vo, Cloth, $10 00 ; Sheep, $12 00 ; Half Morocco, $15 00. Stanley's Coomassie and Magdala. Coomassie and Magdala: a Story of Two British Campaigns in Africa. By Henry M. Stanley. With Maps and Illustrations. 8vo, Cloth, $3 50. Cameron's Across Africa. Across Africa. By Verney Lovett Cameron, C.B., D.C.L., Commander Royal Navy, Gold Medalist Royal Geographical Society, &c. With a Map and numerous Illustrations. Svo, Cloth, $5 00. Livingstone's Last Journals. The Last Journals of David Livingstone, in Central Africa, from 1865 to his Death. Continued by a Narrative of his Last Moments and Sufferings, obtained from his Faithful Servants Chuma and Susi. By Horace Waller, F.R.G.S. With Maps and Illustrations. Svo, Cloth, $5 00 ; Sheep, $6 00 ; Half Calf, $7 25. Fopular Hdition, Svo, Cloth, $2 50. Livingstone's Expedition to the Zambesi. Narrative of an Expedition to the Zambesi and its Tributaries ; and of the Dis- covery of the Lakes Shirwa and Nyassa. 1S58-1864. By David and Charles Livingstone. With Map and Illustrations. Svo, Cloth, $5 00 ; Sheep, $5 50. Long's Central Africa. Central Africa : Naked Truths of Naked People. An Account of Expeditions to the Lake Victoria Nyanza and the Makraka Niam-Niam, West of the Bahr-El- Abiad (White Nile). By Col. C. Chaillk Long, of the Egyptian Staff. Illustrated from Col. Long's own Sketches. With Map. Svo, Cloth, $2 60. Du Chaillu's Ashango-Land. A Journey to Ashango-Land, and Further Penetration into Equatorial Africa. By Paul B. Dn Chaillu. Illustrated. Svo, Cloth, $5 00. Du Chaillu's Land of the Midnight Sun. The Land of the Midnight Sun. Summer and Winter Journeys through Sweden, Norway, Lapland, and Northern Finland. By Paul B. Du Chaillu. With Map and 235 Illustrations. In Two Volumes. Svo, Cloth, $7 50; Half Calf, $12 00. Thomson's Voyage of the " Challenger." The Voyage of the "Challenger." The Atlantic: An Account of the General Results of the Voyage during the Tear 1873 and the Early Part of the Tear 1876. By Sir C. Wyville Thomson, F.R.S. With a Portrait of the Author, many Colored Maps, and Illustrations. 2 vols., Svo, Cloth, $12 00. Valuable Works of Exploration and Adventure. Thomson's Southern Palestine and Jerusalem. The Land and the Book : Southern Palestine and Jerusalem. By William M. Thomson, D.D., Forty-five Years a Missionary in Syria and Palestine. 140 Illus- trations and Maps. Square 8vo, Cloth, $6 00 ; Sheep, $7 00 ; Half Morocco, $8 50; Full Morocco, Gilt Edges, $10 00. Thomson's Central Palestine and Phoenicia. The Land and the Book: Central Palestine and Phajnicia. By William M. Thomson, D.D. 130 Illustrations and Maps. Square 8vo, Cloth, $6 00 ; Sheep, $7 00 ; Half Morocco, $8 50 ; Full Morocco, Gilt Edges, $10 00. Thomson's Lebanon, Damascus, and Beyond Jordan. The Land and the Book : Lebanon, Damascus, and Beyond Jordan. By Will- iam M. Thomson, D.D. 147 Illustrations and Maps. Square 8vo, Cloth, $6 00 ; Sheep, $7 00 ; Half Morocco, $8 50 ; Full Morocco, Gilt Edges, $10 00. The Land and the Book. Comprising the above works, viz.. Southern Palestine and Jerusalem ; Central Palestine and Phoenicia ; and Lebanon, Damascus, and Beyond Jordan, in 3 vols.. Popular Edition, Square Svo, Cloth, $9 00. {Sold in Sets only.) Reade's Savage Africa. Savage Africa : being the Narrative of a Tour in Equatorial, South-western, and North-western Africa ; with Notes on the Habits of the Gorilla ; on the Exist- ence of Unicorns and Tailed Men ; on the Slave-trade ; on the Origin, Character, and Capabilities of the Negro, and on the Future Civilization of Western Africa. By W. WiNwooD Rbade. With Illustrations and a Map. Svo, Cloth, %i 00 ; Sheep, $4 50 ; Half Calf, $6 25. Schweinfurth's Heart of Africa. The Heart of Africa ; or. Three Tears' Travels and Adventures in the Unex- plored Eegions of the Centre of Africa. From 1868 to 1871. By Dr. Georo ScHWEi-NFURTH. Translated by Ellen E. Fbewkr. With an Introduction by Win- wood Reade. Illustrated by about 130 Wood-cuts from Drawings made by the Author, and with Two Maps. 2 vols., 8vo, Cloth, |8 00. Speke's Africa. Journal of the Discovery of the Source of the Nile. By John Hanning Speke, Captain H. M. Indian Army, Fellow and Gold Medalist of the Royal Geographical Society, Hon. Corresponding Member and Gold Medalist of the French Geograph- ical Society, &c. With Maps and Portraits and numerous Illustrations, chiefly from Drawings by Captain Grant. 8vo, Cloth, $4 00 ; Sheep, $4 60. Baker's Ismailia. Ismailia: a Narrative of the Expedition to Central Africa for the Suppression of the Slave-trade, organized by Ismail, Khedive of Egypt. By Sir Samcel White Baker, Pasha, M.A., F.R.S., F.R.G.S., M.ijorgcneral of the Ottoman Empire, late Governor-general ot the Equatorial Nile Basin, &c., &c. With Maps, Portraits, and upwards of fifty full-page Illustrations by Zweckcr and Durand. Svo, Cloth, $5 00 ; Half Calf, $7 25. -1 Valuable Works of Exploration and Adventure. Schlieraann's Ilios. Eioi. :he C:— a=d Co'jntry of the Trojans. The Besults of Researches and Dis- coTeries on the Site of Troy and thronghont the Troad in the jears 1871-72- '73_"7S-'79; inclnding an Antobiography of the Author. By Dr. HJrssT Schue- vtw, r.S.A., r.Ki Britiih Architects: Author of "Troy and its Eemaius," " Mvcens," sc With a Preface, Appendices, and Xotes by Professors Kudolf Vir- choT, Max iluller, A. H. Sayce, J. P. Mahaffy, H. Brugsch-Bey, P. Ascherson, M. A- Postolaccas, IL R Bomoiif, Mr. F. Calvert, and Mr. A. J. Doffield. With Maps, Plans, and about 1800 IDnstratioBS. Imperial 8to, Cloth, |12 00 ; Half Morocco, $15 00. Schliemaim's Troja. Troja. EcSTilts of ihe Latest Besearcbes and Discoveri^ on the Sie of Hornet's Ttov, and in the Heroic TnnmH and other Sitra, made in the year 1882, and a XarratiTe of a Jonmey in the Troad in ISSl. By Dr. Hesrt ScHLiESLiSS, Anthor of "Hios,"' &c Preface by Professor A. H Sayce. With 150 Wood^cnts and 4 Maps and Pians. Sto, Cloth, §7 50 : Half Morocco, |10 00. Th.onison"s Malacca, Indo-Cldiia, and Cliliia. The Straits of Malacca, Indo-China, and China ; or. Ten Tears' Travels, Adrent- nres, and Eesidence Abroad. By J. Thoseos. With over Sixty Hlustrations. 8vo, Cloth, |4 00. Spry"s Cmise of the " Challenger." The Cruise of Her Majesty's Ship •'Challenger." Voyages over many Seas, Scenes in many Lands. By W. J. J. Spet, EJS'. With Maps and Ulustratioiis. Crown 8vo, Coih, §2 00. Prime's Boat-Life in Egypt and Nubia. B.3ai-Life in Egypt and Xn'oia. By Wtt.t.k^ C. Prtvk Illustrated. ]2mo, Coih. §2 w. Vambery's Central Asia. Travels in Central Asia: being the Accoont of a Jonmey from Teheran across the Torkwnan Desert, on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian, to Ehiva, Bokhara, and Samarcand, performed in the year 1863. By Arvimls Tambesy. Member of the Hunaarian Academy of Pesth, by whom he was sent on this Scientific Mis- sion. With Map and Wood-cnts. 8vo, Cloth, $4 50 ; Half Calf, |6 75. Mac&alian"s Campaigning on the Osns. Campaigiung on the Oxns and the Ea'.l of Khiva. By J. A. MLs-cGawav. With Map and Ulnstratioiis. evo, Cloth, %Z 50. Forbes's "Wanderings in the Eastern Archipelago. A Xaturalist's Wanderings in the Eastern Archipelago. A Narrative of Travel and Exploration from 1878 to 1883. By Heset 0. Foebes, F.E.G.S., &c. With manv IRustratiocs and Colored Maps. 8vo, O rn amental Cloth, $5 00. Published bt HAEPER & BROTHERS, New Toek. ■ ' H'*''=!?' g3 & B20T3Z^ inT? send any c/ tfie above icorhs 'by mail, postage prepaid, to anf part of the United States cr Canada, cm receipt of the price. IS y '.7«3>*%