'^97^t^A,.<^-^(^ F 587 BEFORE THE Id Settler's Blub — OF Milwaukee County January 6th, 1873 BY JUDGE A. G. MILLER PRESIDENT. PCBLISHED BY ORDER OF THE CLUB. MILWAUKEE: EXTERPRISE I'.OOK AND JOB PRINTING HOUSE; SOUTH SIDE. Copy 1 ANNUAL ADDRESS M. A ^ ANNUAL ADDRESS UTOBB TSa lid Settlers' filub Milwaukee County January 6th, 1873, BY JUDGE A. G.'MILLER, PRE&WENT. -1 PUBLISHED BY ORDER OP THB CLUB. ) MILWAUKEE : B5fTfBUPKISI Boot AND JOB PRINTING nOUSB, SOUTH SS 1973. ADDRESS. Men who voluntarily left the comforts and associatons of th«ir native homes, to make new homes and lay a foundation for a new government \.\\ the far west were public benefactors. They were courageous and self-sacrificing men, worthy the respect and homage of those, who enjoy tho rich results of their enter- prise and labors. The old soldier loves to talk about his captain, his colonel, his regiment, and the battles he fought. The old setder is happy in the evening of his days, in tellmg of his journey westward, of his claim and purchase of government land, of his first log cabin, of his first garden patch, of his first yoke of oxen, of his first crop of wheat, of his first neighbor, of his wife and little ones, and of their ultimate prosperity. Men advanced in age and of experience happily speak of the times that tried their energy and courage, as lessons of encouragement to their sucessors in business. With such feelings and emotions, the old settler's club of Milwaukee county was organized, "for the purpose of re- viving old acquaintances and of renewing the ties of former years. " Incidents connected wi'h pioneer life are interesting to the actors in the "olden time," and should be equally so to their posterity. Old settlers cherish in their memories many inte- resting circumstances connected witii the improvement of this country, which they love to unfold to each other and to their friends and neighbors. The personal experience of each settler in the aggregate, forms a vast fund of useful knowledge. We may mtlulge in mutual congratulations, that our lots were cast in this Canaan of the Northwest, which we came to posses, and have successfully improved and enjoyed. There is no money in this club; but there is reputation. The place and date of the birth of every member, the time of his arrival in the territory and of his decease, are recorded in well bound volumes for preservation and reference. The records and proceedings of this club may be appreciated by after gener- ations, as evidence of the good deeds of its members individu- ally, and of the reputation of the first inhabitents of this county for industry and integrity. It is not expected, that this association is to tciminate with its present members. Provision is made in the constitution for the admission ot new members annually after a residence of thirty years in Milwaukee county; whereby there maybe a ^fv — tinued increase of members corresponding with the growth of population. Each successive generation of members having knowledge of events transpiring in their own days, should fol- low the example ef the present members, in recording their ex- perience, for the benefit of their successors. The State Histor- ical Society at Madison annually receives and publishes our printed addresses. In fact this club is auxiliary to that society. During the lives of the poineers it is eminently pioper, that the annual address of your President, should mainly consist of facts connected with the early settlement of this countiy. I shall therefore confine this address to transactions occurring prior to and during the territorial government of Wisconsin, even at the risk of relating common place matter, in the estimation of some, who do not appreciate the local history o( those times. The device of an Indian wigwam and a lof cabin on our badge sug gests a prominent portion of the following remarks. The American Indians have been a subject interesting to philanthropists since the first colonial settlements. Savage and untutored races of men, at all times have retired before the ap- proach of civilization and improvement. In the territory'o/ the northwest, wars have been succeeded by treaties of cession of Indian territory to the United States, by surveys by the gov- ernment of the ceded lands into sections and fractions of sec- tions, and by their settlement and improvement. Such followed 5 the Indian wars in S^ouihcrn Ohio and Southern Indiana. The like followed the war of 1812, with England, in Northern Ohio, Northern Indiana and Michigan. The like also succeded the Black Hawk war, in Northern Illinois and Southern Wis- consin The United States have not treated with the Indian tribes assoverignor independent nations, but rather as gtioai $^ wiirds of the government. The United States, by cession from tne State of Verginia, became the undisputed owner in fee of the northwestern territory subject to the unsettled claims of the Indians. The government as the soverign owner of the terri- tory formed peacful treaties with the Indian tribes, upon princi pies of humanity, providing for a consideration in money and means of subsistence. It was more becoming a great nation to remove the Indians by peaceful negotilions, than by military force. The Menominee tribe was peaceful and friendly, and in con- sideration in part of benefits received ofgovernment, they ceded to the United Stales the lands described in the following treaty. "The Menominee tribe of Indians in consideration of the kindness and protection of the government of the United State and for the purpose of securing to themselves and posterity a comfortable home, ceded and forever relinquished to the United, States all their ciamtry on the south-east side of AVinnebago Lake, Fox River and Green Bay, decribed in the following boundaries: Begining at the south end ot Winnebago Lake and running in a south-east direction to Milwakey ui/ Minna- ^ wakey River, thence down said river to its moulh, thence north along the shore of Lake Michigan to the entrance of Green Bay, thence up and along Greeen Bay, P'ox River and Winne- bago Lake to the place of beginning, excluding all private land claims, which the United States have heretofore confirmed and sanctioned — and also all the islands in Fox River and Green Bay are likewise ceded, the lands ceded comprising by estima- tion two millions five hundred thousand acres." This treaty and a cession from the Pottovvatamles and other tribes included the lands covered bv this ci:v. The mouth of tlic MiUaukec River was the extent of the Menominees lands on the south. The lands of the Pottowatimies, and other tribes extended from that point south and west The cession of the friepdly Menominees was made in 1831, the year before the Black Hawk war, the cession of the Poitowatamies and of the Sioux and Foxes, which tribes were warlike w^as made in 1833 the year after tliat war. The very early settlement of Solomon Juneau and Gjorge H. Walker at Milwaukee, made this point a favorite place of Indian resort. They visited the tradmg tents of these gentlemen from all quarters. Indian trails stretching out in every direc- tion fiom this point were visible for years after the removal of the Indians. The trail between Milwaukee and Green Bay was the high road for travel, until the military road was opened in the year 1841, pursucnt to an act of Congress. The time re- quired for traveling between those points was four davs. Port Washington, Sheboygan Falls an d ]M mitowoc were the only in- termediate stopping place55. The postman traveled the trail on foot,delivcringthe mail at the terminus of his route on the fourth day. Returning from holding court in Green Bay, in October, 1839. a beautiful indian summer day, between Sheboygan Falls and Milwaukee, I met the mail carrier on foot, who was the only white man observed on the trail that day, but numerous Indians enjoying their hunting season. The trail of the Indians under lilack Hawk, extending to- wards Bad Axe on the Mississippi river, was pointed out to me in the capitol grounds at Madison by Gov. Dodge, in December 1838. The capitol covers that trail. The lands of the Men- ominee cession were very soon after the treaty, surve3ed and brought into market, but those Indians visited Milwaukee annu- ally for years, from their northern possession^, with marketing, such as game of all kinds, and wild berries of every description. They continued to hunt in the forests between Milwaukee and Gr2en Bay as late as 1841. Thclast dance of the Menominees in Milwaukee was in October, 1841, on a bluff in Jackson street. imme:li.it?lv south of Wisconsin street, .-A's late as i84o ffesh Indian graves were discovered at several, place's in Milwaukee. The lake bluff between ^licliigan and Huron Streets fifty feet above the level of the water, was their favorite place of intering their dead. They seemed inclined to bury their dead braves at a point overlooking the great lake. Patches of corn hills in several localities in and about Milwaukee remained distinct, until destroyed in process of improvement. Low loomy grounds easily cultivated with the hoe, were the points of agricultural operations of the squaws. Working was made the duty of the women. Hunting was die occupation of the men. The brave Indian is a much too self-important in- dividual to make use of any other instruments, than his rifle, tomahawk and scalping knife. It was remarkable the regularity in which the corn hills appeared. They were about of the same size and in straight rows crossing at right angles. Soon after the cession of these lands, they were surveyed into sections, as commenced by the government in Ohio, allotting the sixteenth section in each town for school purposes. A land office was established at Green Bay in 1834. The lands em- braced >vithin the boundaries of Milwaukee were purchased at that office, Solomon Juneau purchased the land situate on the east side of the Milwaukee river, Byron Kilbourne, on the west side of the river, and George H.Walker on the south side of the river. By an act of Congress approved June 15, 1836, the Green Bay land district was divided, and the IMilwaukee dis- trict established. The first sale of government lands, at Mil- waukee was in February, 1839. ^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^^ lands in Mil- waukee and adjacent counties were partially settled upon. The settlers occupied their claims under rules adopted by them- selves for their mutual protection. Contracts of purchase and sale of claims under these rules were enforced by the courts. In this respect history repeated itself. In Pennsylvania and other states, improvement rights of first settlers were protected by the laws. The census taken in 1S40 was the first census of Wisconsin. It appears by the return of that census, filed in the office of the 8 court clerk of jMiUvaukee county, that the population of this county, including that part now Waukesha county, was five thousand ftve hundred and seventy-three. Of this number there were in what is now Waukesha county, two thousand one hundred and eighty-two persons — and in the present county of Milwaukee, three thousand three hundred and ninety-one. In the village of Milwaukee there were thirteen hundred and seventy-one persons, in the east ward of the village seven hund- red and ' seventy-eight, and in the west ward five-hundred and ninety-three. And in the towns of Milwaukee county there were two thousand and twenty. Of this population of five thousand five hundred and seventy-three, there were persons under five years of age nine hundred and ninety-nine, between five and ten years, six hundred and eighty-six; between ten and fifteen, lour hundred ani eighty-nine; between fifteen and twenty, four hundred and eighty-nine; between twenty and thirty, thirteen hundred and eighty-five; between thirty and forty eight hundred and eighty-one; between forty and fifty, three hundred and foity- cne; between fifly and sixty, one hundred and sixty-three; be- tween sixty and seventy, seventy-nine, between seventy anc eighty, fourteen, and between eighty and ninety, five; and forty- six free colored persons. That portion of the population, be- tween twenty and thirty years of age comprized one fourth of the whole number, and those between thirty and forty years ot age, were nearly one-sixth of the population, Those between twenty aiid forty years numbered thirty-two hundred and sixty- six, four hundred and eighty over one half of the whole popula- tion of the county. There werc about one third more males than females. This may be considered a fair representation of the population of the territory in the year 1840, except perhaps' the old military settlements at Green Bay and Prairie du Chien. With few exceptions, persons over fifty years were not settlers from choice. Their children brought them. Newly married sons and daughters brought them. Milwaukee county was divided, and Waukesha county organ- ized pursuant to an act of the Legislature approved February 2 1846. The city of Milwaukee was incorporated in January of the same year. As before stated, the population of the village of ilwaukee in 1840 was 1,371, and of Milwaukee county within its present boundaries, including the village, 3,391. In 1850. the population of the city of Milwaukee was 19,963, and of the county, nicluding the city, 31,077. In i860, the population of the city was 45, 140, and of ihe county, including the city, — 62,518. In 1870 the population of the city was 71,440, and of the county including the city. 89,930. By th3 census returns of 1840 there were in Milwaukee county two weekly n2wspapers, one of a capital of twenty -five hundred dollars; and the other of sixteen hundred dollars, em- ploying four men in one, and three in the other. There were three grist mills and four saw mills in the county; and the amount of manufactures was 11,350 dollars, by eight men em-- ployed, and the capital invested was 12,800 dollars. The tolal capital invested in manufactures in the county, was $23,100. Tne proprietors of Milwaukee commenced platting their land into village lots, in the autumn of 1835, aud they completed th plats and filed them in the court clerk's office in 1837. In 1830 speculation ran high, and town lots commanded enormou prices, even while there were no marks designating then- bound- aries, or the lines of the streets, but the surveyors pins. The small number of buildings erected in the years 1835, 1830 and 1837, were mostly of wood, and very few exceeding one and a half stories. In 1836 the old frame Court House was built;front- ing the square dedicated to the county by the honest and large hearted first settler, Solomon Juneau, whose memory we ven- erate. The first brick block of stores, on the west side of East Water Street was erected in 1842. In 1847 there ^were not ex- ceeding six brick dwelling houses of any importance in the city. The natural surface of Milwaukee was [very broken and un- eaven. The bluff at the lake shore north of Huron street was fifty feet above the water, and increased in height as it extend- ed northward. The government lighthouse was first erected on this bluff, in the centre of Wisconsin street ' anJ was for a 10 time about the principal public institution in the village. From the blufls flowed springs of pure water, supplying the people; there not being wells, The bluffs were abrupt. A bluff extending from Broadway along Michigan street to the lake lerminatcd the high ground southward. The whole of the third ward south of that street was a duck pond. A bluff at the ciossingof Broadway and Wisconsin street was cut down twelve feet. In east water street near the city hall, there was a bluff much in the form of a mound, nearly twenty-live feet high. A bluff on the summit of Spring street was imoassable by teams for several years, West Water street existed mticly m name, being covered with water ior years, from north of Spring street southward to the Menomonee river, and up this river for two miles extended a wet marsh. One half of the fifth ward was a marsh. Not much work was done on the streets prior to tlie organization of the city government. The city authorities verv soon entered upon the grading process, and reduced the bluffs into inclined planes, and filled up the marshes. The Milwaukee and Rock river canal company was incorpor ated by the Territorial Legislature in 1838; and the same year Congress granted lands along the route of the contemplated im- provement to enable the companj to prosecute the building of a canal between Milwaukee and Rock river. A dam was construc- ted in the Milwaukee river in 1842. which by means of a canal created water power, to the essential benefit of the city. The can- al has not been extended further than the dam, and probably never will. In 1840 there was not a church edifice in Milwaukee. The Oongregationalists and Presbyterians, at first united in worship in a small vacant bulding on the west side of the river. In 1841 they occupied an ^'upper room" of a building on the corner of Sprinp; and AVest Water streets. In 1842 they divided and commenced building churches, the Oongregationalists on the west side of the river and the Presbyterians on the east side. The Episcopalians worshiped in the court room. The Methodists worshiped in a small building on the corner of East Water and Huron streets. St. Peters Catholic church was commenced in 1841 and finished 11 the next year. St. Paul's Episcopal Church was built in 1844. These churches have been enlarged to double their original size. A Methodist church on the corner of Spring and West Water Streets was erected about the year 1845. This church was burned, and from its ashes have arisen two beautiful church edifices, on Spring and Van Buren streets. The Catholic Cathedral was consecrated in 1853. In i85o the erection of Plymouth Church was commenced. In 1840 there were no means of passing to and from steam boats anchored in the Bay, but by hghters andbatteaux. In 1842 a bridge pier was extended from the foot of Huron Street; which in a short time was followed by another. These piers have not been used since the harbor extension from the river in- to the Bay. The IMilwaukee river was crossed by means of two rope ferries, at the foot of Wisconsin and East Water Streets, mntil the erection of abridge in 1842, from Division to Chest- nut Streets. The construction of this bridge excited the local jealousy and prejudice of the residents of both sides of the river, which continued with much bitterness until the organization of the city government. At the present time, eleven bridges span the IMilwaukee river, and seven the Menominee, within the city limits, including two rail-road bridges. The rivers being navi- gable from the lake, navigators of vessels have a paramount right over land travel, hence the necessity of constructing the bridges with draws. The first German colony, in number about eight hundred men, women and children landed at Milwaukee late in the sum- mer of 1839. They brought the necessary housekeeping uten- sils, and encamped on the lake shore south of Huron street. They immediately commenced in a business way, to carry out their object in coming to this new country. They examined the government plats in the land office; and having ascertained by all the means in their power; where lands well timbered and. watered could be purchased, they entered lands bound- ing on the Milwaukee river and on the division line between Milwaukee and Washington counties. A smaU number of 12 \hx. colony remained in the village, but the nust cf ihem em- ployed themselves without delay, in cleaiing and cultivadng, their lands. Tho:5e pioneers formed the nucleus of the ^ery extensive, influential and wealthy German element of the popu- lation of this county and state. By their practical sense and. industrious habits they have largely contributed towards the- growth of this city, and the wealth and improvement of this- county and state. The german portion of our population are the proprietors and occupants of one half the terriiory of IMil- waukee city and count}. They are prompt tax payers. They perform the duties of good citizens, and they are faithful in the discharge C)f the duties of offices of public trust. The male mend^eis of the first colony, ^vithout delay, declared their in- tentions to become citizens of the United Slates, and in due time, they were naturalized in the territorial court, in Milwau- kee, every man to the number of seventy in one day, signed his name to his petition. The first German paper in this county was published in 1844 by Moritz Shoeffler, svho continues the. publication of the Banner and Volksfreund. In our j.rimitive days in this country, every log cabin by the way-side was a country tavern. Travellers rode up to a log. cabin with as much confidence of a cordial reception, as if they observed inscribed on the door "entertainment for man and horse.' The best the establishment afforded was soon made ready, by the host and hostess. Frequ