w ' 1 A ^ ^ c* •**§»• tc j> .>Va % ^ ^ •'em* v* 4 O 1?^ o, * « i n • Ay *c> .»P* ••*-•' NEW EDITION FOR 1895. THE INDEX GOIDE To Travel and Art-Study in Europe, LAFAYETTE C. L00MI5, A.M., M.D. With Plans and Catalogues of the Chief Art Galleries, Maps, Tables of Potites, and 160 Illustrations. One Volume, Roan Binding, i6mo, 593 Pages, $3.00. Part I. — Scenery, Art, Legends, and Myths, including descriptions of places, buildings, monuments, works of art, and the historical facts, legends, and myths connected with these. Part II. — Plans and Catalogues of the Art Galleries of Europe. Part III. — Maps, Tables, and Directions for all Leading Routes of Travel. " One of the most compact, comprehensive, and exhaustive traveling com- panions which has ever been printed.'* — N, Y. Tribune. " The whole work is a marvel of compactness, and there is a notable free- dom from commonplace remark and needless comment." — Boston Transcript. "Most admirable. The little scraps of history and criticisms of eminent authors and travelers add largely to the value of the book.'' — Inter-Ocean, Chicago. " The value of the guide is incontestable. It would be worth purchasing if only for the abundant maps of cities, plans of galleries, and charts of railway and river routes, to say nothing of the art illustrations."— X. Y. Evening Post. '* If Americans are wise hereafter, instead of taking their ' Murray, 1 or ' Baedeker,' or ' Harper/ they will carry their ' Loomis. ; Certainly nothing we have ever seen in the way of a guide-book tells so fully, and in a way so easily to be got at, just what the American sight-seer in Europe wants, as this Index Guide." — Cincinnati Commercial. " This work is thorough and comprehensive, and supplies in a compact form an amount of information that would seem incredible to one who has not looked through its pages. It is one of the best books for the intelligent traveler who goes to Europe, not merely for sight-seeing, but to study and enjoy its great works of art and the notable events in its historv."— Boston Post. CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS, 153-157 Fifth Aye., New York. J-IBHA LlY A HANDBOOK TO THE JAPANESE EMPIRE. Advertisements. THE EQUITABLE Jfife Jpstftitq SntichJ nf ilic IliiiUit Slates. HEAD EA-STER^T OFFICE - - - SHANGHAI. 4 -^j|N 1S73 the Equitable Society issued Policy No. 78,061 for $1,000. This polic}' was a Twenty-year Endowment, with a twenty-year Tontine period. Hence it matured last year. The total amount paid in premiums was $953.60. The cash surrender value of the Assur- ance (payable to the policy-holder himself during his own lifetime) was $1,597.04. This is a return of all the premiums paid, with interest on the same at the rate of 6-J per cent, per annum. All 20 years Endowment Policies issued by the Society show a return of over 6 per cent, per annum. Here follow a few examples : — Total amount paid in Cash surrender. Mate of inr f Policy. Amonni of Policy, prem. in 20 years. value in 1893. terest realised. $4,949.00 S8.224.45 6*% 4,768.00 7,985.20 6F/o i ? 907.oo 3194.08 6t% 4,782.00 8,002.85 61% 1,941.20 3,237.34 Qi% bs . . $169,066,396 | Income . . $42,022,605 | Surplus . . $32,366,750 Paid to Policy Holders during the year 1893 $ 17,650,315 Paid to Policy Holders since organization $192,572,734 For additioual examples and explanations, or to effect Assurances, apply to any of the Society's Agents. W. M. STRACHAN & Co., Agents, Yokohama and Kobe. TAKATA & Co., Agents, Tokyo and Osaka. HOLME, RINGER & Co., Agents, Nagasaki. SHEWAN & Co., Agents, Hongkong and Canton. THE BORNEO Co., Agents, Singapore. J. T. HAMILTON, Manager for the East. 77,7^3 So. 000 78,620 5.000 78,941 2.000 80,343 5.000 -2.044 2,000 \sw nit/ fit r n r-ferrea J i , JoYm A HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS IN JAPAN BY BASIL HALL CHAMBERLAIN EMEBITUS PROFESSOR OF JAPANESE AND PHILOLOGY IN THE IMPERIAL UNIVERSITY OF JAPAN AND W. B. MASON LATE OF THE IMPERIAL JAPANESE DEPARTMENT OF COMMUNICATIONS 88Kt|) £toenti?^si): iHaps an& JSlans auto Numerous illustrations FOURTH EDITION REVISED AND AUGMENTED NEW YORK CHARLES SCRIBXER'S SONS LONDON: JOHN MURRAY YOKOHAMA > „ „ „ ( HONGKONG SHANGHAI / KELLY * WALSH ' LIMITED \ SI.NGAPOKE ToKYo : K. OGAWA, HIYOSHI-CHO {All Eights Reserved) 3)SEos J<- i° ^ 7BESTED BY THE '' SHUEISHA," ETOBASHI-KTJ NISHI XC^7YA-CHO TOKYO JAPAN Tra«n>sie* Army War Colt** June 20 19SS CO >c — w m m m II] JSIJ fT 0f 0f A =£ * JR JR JR ft j£ Jt H B $ B ■db? fl-I - + H f A - m * I ft * R £ ft a -* a it y 1/ ft * I •v A 0J§ « te 0/A + + -fc -fc #■ #• £ £ £ ^ + + izy H B « en fx JSiJ PREFACE TO THE FOURTH EDITION. Since the publication of the previous edition of the Japan Handbook in 1891, the compilers have again travelled over almost every portion of the country, from Yezo to Loochoo. They now submit to the reader a text largely re-written and thoroughly revised to date, fifteen new Eoutes in which the whole Empire is for the first time included, greatly improved maps and plans, and numerous illustrations. Grateful acknowledgments are due to numerous kind friends, more especially to Eev. Walter Weston for revising the Mountain Eoutes 28 and 30, and to Lafcadio Hearn, Esq., for the material of Eoute 48. Corrections or suggestions will be welcome at any time. Tokyo, May 1st, 1894. CONTENTS, INTRODUCTION. 1. General ; Books on Japan ; Maps 2. Steam Communication .... 3. Custom-House 4. Public Holidays 5. Treaty Limits ; Passports. . 6. Guides 7. Posts ; Telegraphs ; Banks . . 8. Currency 9. Weights and Measures 10. Inns; Travelling Expenses 11. Climate ; Dress ; Time of Visit 12. Provisions 13. Means of Locomotion ; Luggage 14. Where to Go and What to See Page. Page. 15. Purchases; Objects of Art. . 13 16. Shipment of Goods 14 17. Shooting 14 18. Fishing 15 19. Miscellaneous Hints 16 20. Language 18 21. The Shinto Religion 32 22. Ryobu Shinto 34 23. Japanese Buddhism 35 24. List of Gods and God- desses 39 25. Christian Mission Stations 50 26. Outline of Japanese His- tory 51 27. Celebrated Personages 53 28. Population of the Chief Cities 68 12 29. Outline Tours 68 10 10 ROUTES. Section I. — Eastern Japan. Route. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Page. Route. Page. Yokohama 75 Excursions from Yokohama 77 From Yokohama to Tokyo . 86 Tokyo 87 Excursions from Tokyo . . 116 6. Miyanoshita and Hakone. . 122 7. The Peninsula of Izu 133 8. Vries Island 138 9. Fuji and Neighbourhood . . 140 10. Takasaki-Karuizawa Rail- way 148 Karuizawa and Asama- yama 150 Ikao, Kusatsu, and Neigh- bourhood 153 13. The Ryomo Railway 159 14. Nikko and Neighbourhood . 161 15. From Nikko to Ikao by the Valley of the Watarase- gawa 178 11 12 16. From Nikko to Ikao over the Konsei-toge 180 17. Trips in the Provinces of Hitachi, Shimosa, Kazusa, and Boshu 182 The Shiobara District 194 Bandai-san 196 From Inawashiro to Yone- zawa via Bandai-san and the Hibara-toge 198 From Inawashiro or Waka- matsu to Nikko by the Valley of the Kinugawa . . 199 From Niigata to Waka- matsu 200 From Niigata to Ikao by the Mikuni-toge 201 24. From Koriyama through the Province of Iwaki to Taira and Mito 202 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. Vlll. Contents. Section II. — Central Japan. Route. Page. Route. Page. 25. Karuizawa-Naoetsu Rail- way and Niigata. Island of Sado 205 26. Ways to and from Kofu . . 213 27. Valley of the Hayakawa . . 224 28. Mountains between the Fujikawa and the Tenryu- gawa 226 29. Rapids of the Tenryu-gawa 230 30. Mountains of Hida and Etchu 232 31. The Potteries of Seto 244 32. The Shrines of Ise 245 33. The West Coast from Tsu- ruga to Naoetsu 257 Section III. — Eoutes Connecting Tokyo and Kyoto. 34. The Tokaido 263 I 36. The Steamer Voyage from 35. The Nakasendo 277 | Yokohama to Kobe 282 Section IV. — Western Japan and the Inland Sea. 37. Kobe and Neighbourhood . . 287 38. Osaka and Neighbourhood . 292 39. Kyoto and Neighbourhood . 297 40. Lake Biwa 328 41. Nara and Neighbourhood. . 333 42. Through Yamato to Koya- san and Wakayama in Kishu 341 43. Through Kumano to Ise . . 359 44. Minor Itineraries in the Province of Kishu 369 45. From Kyoto to Ama-no- Hashidate on the Sea of Japan 370 46. From Himeji to Miyazu . . 371 47. Matsue and the Temples of Izumo 373 48. The Oki Islands 375 49. The Island of Awaji 377 50. The Inland Sea and Chief Places on and near its Northern Shore 382 Section V. — The Island of Shikoku. 51. North-Eastern Shikoku .. 395 52. North-Western Shikoku . . 400 53. Valley of the Yoshino-gawa 404 54. Western Shikoku from Ma- tsuyama to Uwajima .... 408 55. Kochi and Ways thither . . 409 Section VI. — Kyushu and Outlying Islands. 56. Nagasaki and Neighbour- hood 413 57. Excursions from Nagasaki . 419 58. The Shimabara Peninsula.. 420 59. Through North - Western Kyushu by Rail and Road. 425 60. The Yabakei Valley 431 61. North-Eastern Kyushu and across Country to Kuma- moto 433 62. Aso-san 437 63. From Kumamoto to Nobe- oka and Oita. By the South- East Coast to Kagoshima.. 438 64. Kagoshima 440 65. From Kagoshima to Kuma- moto via the Rapids of the Kumagawa. Kirishima . . 443 66. The Loochoo Islands 445 67. The Goto Islands and Tsu- shima. Fusan, Gensau, and Vladivostock 447 Contents. IX* Section VII. — Northekn Japan. Route. Page. 68. The Northern Eailway 451 69. Matsushima and Kinkwa- zan 461 70. The North-East Coast 466 71. From Yonezawa by the Miomote Valley to Mura- kami on the N.W. Coast and to Tsuru-ga-oka 467 Route. Page. 72. From Sendai to Yamagata and Yonezawa 469 73. From Sendai to Tsuru-ga- oka, Sakata, Honjo, and Akita 470 74. Ways to Akita 472 75. From Akita to Aomori .... 474 76. Lake Towada 476 Section VIII. — The Island of Yezo. 77. Hakodate and Neighbour- hood 479 78. Excursions from Hakodate. 481 79. From Hakodate to Fuku- yama 483 80. From Hakodate to Esashi . 484 GLOSSAEY INDEX ERRATA AND ADDENDA 81. Otaru, Sapporo, Hokkaido Eailway, and YolcanoBay.. 485 82. The South-East Coast and the Southern Kuriles .... 488 83. From Kushiro to Abashiri and Northern Yezo 489 .. 491 497 529 MAPS AND PLANS. 1. Japan in pocket of cover. 2. Key to Sectional Maps to face title-page. 3. Shinto Temple of Izumo to face p. 33 4. Buddhist Temple of Ikegami ,, p. 37 5. Eastern Japan ,, p. 73 6. Neighbourhood of Yokohama ,, p. 75 7. Chief Sights of Tokyo „ p. 87 8. Temples and Tombs of Shiba on p. 94 9. Tokyo and Neighbourhood to face p. 116 10. Miyanoshita and Hakone ,, p. 123 11. Fuji and the Hakone District „ p. 140 12. Ikao and Kusatsu „ p. 153 13. Nikko „ p. 161 14. Nikko Temples across p. 162 15. Central Japan to face p. 203 16. Kofu „ p. 213 17. Geku Temple at Ise on p. 252 18. Western Japan and the Inland Sea to face p. 285 19. Osaka and Kobe „ . p. 2S7 20. Kyoto ,, p. 297 21. Kyushu ,, p. 411 22. Neighbourhood of Nagasaki ,, p. 413 23. Kumamoto Castle on p. 428 24. Northern Japan to face p. 449 25. Matsushima „ p. 461 26. Southwestern Yezo ,, p. 477 Via Canada to Japan. The shortest and most enjoyable way from Europe to Japan is by the Canadian Pacific Eailway Com- pany's Line (commonly known as the C. P. R.), which lies wholly in British territory. The journey from Liverpool to Yokohama by this route can be accomplished in less than four weeks, as against the six weeks occupied in the alternative eastward route via Suez and Hong- kong. If six weeks be taken for it the traveller may visit all the chief Canadian cities, besides enjoying the wonderful scenery of the Rockies and neighbouring ranges at his leisure. Expenses. — First-class rates from Liverpool or Southampton to Yoko- hama range between £60 and £70, according to the Atlantic Line and accommodation selected. Via Allan Line to Halifax in winter, and via the Gulf of and River St. Lawrence to Quebec and Montreal in summer ; thence Canadian Pacific Railway £68.3.5 Return Fare £109.12.6 Via Dominion Line, same routes £66.7.5 Return Fare £107.12.6 Via Beaver Line, same routes £61.7.5 Return Fare £98.2.6 Via White Star, American, or Cunard Lines to New York, thence via Mon- treal or Niagara Falls and Toronto, and the Canadian Pacific Rail- way £69.3.7 Return Fare £111.13.7 Besides the above, there is a charge of $20 for accommodation in the Sleeping Car from Montreal to Vancouver— an indispensable item — a charge of 75 cents per meal on the dining cars, and there will pro- bably be a day's hotel expenses at Montreal varying from $3 to $5. The hotels in Canada are conducted on what is called the " American plan," the guest being charged a fixed sum per diem, irrespective of what meals he may take, the only ' extras being wines and liquors. Money. — The currency of Canada \ is based upon the decimal system ; one English halfpenny equals one cent. Silver coins are in 5 cent, 10 cent, 25 cent, and 50 cent pieces, and 100 cents equal one dollar. English sovereigns pass current for $4.86, and United States gold in 5, 10, or 20 dollar pieces pass at par. 1 Bank and Government notes are for one, two, four, five, ten, twenty, fifty, one hundred, five hundred, and | one thousand dollars. United States silver and notes pass at par in most Canadian towns and cities, but in a | few small towns discount is charged. The chief banks are the Bank of Montreal, Bank of Commerce, I Bank of Toronto, Merchants' Bank, I Imperial Bank, Traders' Bank, Bank of Hamilton, Molson's Bank, Bank of Nova Scotia, and Union Bank. Canadian Bank and Govern- ment notes are subjected to a small discount in the United States, while the silver passes at par in most places along the frontier. Clothing. — Warm elothiog and wraps are needed on the Atlantic : and Pacific at all times of the year. Somewhat lighter garb may suffice even in winter for the hotels and ! " cars," which are heated through- j out in a manner surprising to those whose experiences are of the Old j World only. There is no "dressing" on the cars ; but on board the Cana- dian Pacific, as on most large Allan , mail steamers, it is usual for gentle- ' men to appear in a black coat at i dinner. [ II ] The voyage across the Atlantic is too well known to need description here. Those desiring information can obtain it at any of the C. P. R's Agencies in Great Britain, viz : — London, 67 and 68, King William Street, E.C. Liverpool, 7, James Street. Manchester, 105, Market Street. Glasgow, 67, St. Vincent Street. There is a large choice of steam- ship lines, so that the traveller may please himself in the matter of landing on the American continent at Quebec, Montreal, Halifax, Bos- ton, or New York. In any case, one ticket purchasable in Great Britain covers the whole distance from Liverpool to Japan. Montreal should be regarded by the Japan - bound traveller as the starting-point of his land journey, for it is at Montreal that the trans-continental train is made up. Quebec. — Those desirous of " do- ing " Canada properly and travelling by way of the Gulf of St. Lawrence are, however, strongly advised to stop a day at Quebec, the only walled city on the American con- tinent, the city most rich in his- torical associations, and the most splendidly situated. The steamers from Liverpool to Montreal touch at Quebec to disembark passengers, who can proceed to Montreal later on by train, for which their through ticket from Europe is available. In anticipation of the early establish- ment of a fast Atlantic service in connection with the Canadian Paci- fic ^ Railway, a large hotel, the Chateau Frontenac, has been erec- ted at Quebec, and is now open to guests. The hotel is built, near the famous Citadel, on Dufferin Terrace, from which a magnificent view is obtained. Quebec was founded by Champlain in 1608, taken by the English in 1629, and restored to France in 1632. Struggles to regain possession of the city were main- tained at intervals for over a hundred years, until it fell into the hands of the English in 1759, when both Wolfe and Montcalm, with whose memories the place is indissolubly associated, died in the final attack. The population of Quebec which at that time numbered less than 5,00; i, has risen to 70,000, of whom even at this day only some 6,000 are not of French extraction. Another name held in loving remembrance by the inhabitants is that of Lord Dufferin, for some years Governor General of Canada. The best way to spend a day at Quebec is first to walk out on the Dufferin Terrace in order to enjoy the splendid panorama of the city, River St. Lawrence, and the Laurentian Hills beyond (or they can be viewed from the windows of the Chateau Frontenac), and then to engage a carriage to make the round of such sights as the Roman Catholic Cathedral, Parliament Buildings, the Plains of Abraham, etc. ; not forgetting the fur-stores, and, in the afternoon the Montmorenci Falls and the "Natural Steps" of the Montmorenci River situated some 8 miles from the city. The crosses by the wayside, and the generally old-fashioned provincial French as- pect of all around is very notice- able, and there are many points, buildings, and relics of historical record that are worth seeing. The Falls can also be reached by rail- way, as also can the famous shrine of Ste. Anne de Beaupre, a few miles beyond, which is yearly visited by hundreds of thousands. Montreal (Hotels, Windsor Hotel, St. Lawrence Hall, Queen's, Bal- moral Hotel), the chief city of Canada (pop., with suburbs, 300,000), and its greatest shipping port, be- ing at the head of ocean navigation, although over 200 miles from salt water and about 150 miles from tide-water, is situated on an island formed by the Rivers St. Lawrence and Ottawa. It stands on the site of the ancient Indian village of Hochelaga, visited by the celebrated French explorer Jacques Cartier as long ago as 1535. Montreal was the last place surrendered by the French to the English in 1760, and the French language is still extensively used. The city has a commanding share of the trade of Canada and the [ III ] Great Lakes, handsome public build- ' ings, and a general air of prosperity and refinement. Cabs are cheap and numerous, and there is an effi- cient electric car service. The best view of Montreal is obtained either from Mount Royal, the mountain which gives its name to the city — a short drive or walk — or from the tower of the great parish church of Notre Dame which can be ascended in an elevator. The visitor will likewise be attracted by the gigantic new Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Peter, one third the size of St. Peter's at Rome, on the plan of which it is constructed. The num- ber of other churches and nunneries is very great. Of secular educa- tional institutions, the most interest- ing is the McGill University. Among large public buildings, may be men- tioned the Windsor Street Station of the Canadian Pacific Railway, overlooking a handsome public square and within two minutes walk of the Windsor Hotel. A re- cent writer, in suggesting Montreal as an ideal holiday resort, sums up thus : — Snow-shoeing, tobogganing, skating, curling, and sleighing make Montreal a delight in the winter ; all the joys pertaining to river, moun- tain, and forest and glorious climate make it a paradise in summer. The Railway Joueney Across the Continent. The conscruction of the C. P. E. may- be said to have been begun in 1881, when the Company was organized and took over the colossal enterprise from the hands of the Government. In less than five years— at the close of 1885— the line extended from Quebec and Montreal to the Pacific Ocean, and in the following- year the vast system was in complete and successful wo. king order. The Trans-continental train leaves Montreal every evening. To the Englishman, accustomed to short railway trips, it is a new sensation to find himself embarked on a jour- ney of five nights and nearly as many days, covering a stretch of over 2,900 miles. The sleeping car is not only a means of transit : it is a hotel pro tern, in which he can retire comfortably to bed at night and perform his ablutions in the morning ; thrice daily, excellent meals are served in the dining-cars, named Balmoral, Sandringham, Holyrood, Frogmore, and so on, after European palaces, while the sleeping cars, which are used as drawing-rooms by day and dormi- tories by night, for the most part bear prophetically some such name as Yokohama, Tokyo, Fujiyama, or Nagoya, as if to familiarise him with the place-names of the coun- try whither he is bound. Most travellers will find the general sleeping car accommoda- tion — one berth — amply sufficient. Those desiring extra luxury may, by double payment, secure double room both by night and day (what is termed a " Section "), or, if they have a party, they may ensure ab- solute privacy by engaging the " State-room." These arrangements should be made before leaving Montreal. The first place of importance passed after quitting Montreal is Ottawa (Hotels, Russell House, Grand Union, Vv'indsor), pop. -8,000, the official capital of the Dominion of Canada, and an important centre of the lumber trade, the Chaudiere Falls, which here interrupt the navigation of the Ottawa River, affording water-power for a host of saw-rnills and other manufactories. It is picturesquely situated at the junction of the Rivers Ottawa and Rideau, opposite the mouth of the Gatineau, the Gothic towers and pinnacles of the Houses of Parlia- ment and other Government build- ings crowning the cliffs that over- hang the running water. Rideau Hall, the residence of the Governor- General is two miles distant. Trans- continental passengers wishing to see Ottawa, even superficially, must stay over there, as the train runs through it at midnight. They can, however, leave Montreal by an early train, spend part of tbe day in Ottawa [ iv ] and join the Trans-continental or Pacific express at night. On leaving Ottawa . we gradually pass beyond the old-settled French colony into newer lands where Anglo-Saxon energy reigns supreme, Scotch settlers be- ing particularly numerous and suc- cessful as farmers. During the First Day of the Trans-continen- tal journey, we at first keep the Otta- wa River with us, passing through Pembroke and Mattawa, an old fur-trading post of the Hudson's Bay Company, now a favourite cen- tre for moose hunters, and fisher- men. Here guides and supplies for shooting and fishing expeditions can always be obtained, as also at North Bay, a couple of hours fur- ther on, on the- shores of Lake Nipissing. This beautiful sheet of water, 40 miles long by 10 miles wide is but the largest of a succession of lakes which form the characteristic ! feature of this first day of the jour- ney ; and in October the whole country-side glows with brightest autumnal hues. Passengers travel- ling by way of Niagara Falls or Toronto will here join the Trans- • continental express. At Sudbury, a new-1 eking town planted in the forest, we find a branch line of rail- way leading to Sault Ste. Marie at the eastern extremity of Lake Supe- rior. Here it connects with two American lines extending to Duluth and to St. Paul and Minneapolis, and on till it rejoins the Trans- contirental route near Moosejaw in the Canadian North-West, convey- ing vast quantities of flour and grain on their way to the Atlantic sea- board. Within a few miles of Sud- bury itself, and reached by two short railway lines, are the most extensive copper and nickel deposits known in the world. To those travelling westward, darkness sooner or later, according to the season, shrouds the fine river and lake scenery between Onaping and Biscotasing. The traveller must be content to wait till next morning, which is the Second, or Lake Superior Day of his journey. He will rise early to enjoy the w T hole scene from Heron Bay and Peninsula onwards. The line has been forced through and around the bold, harsh promon- tories of Lake Superior by means of tunnels, and viaducts, and deep cuttings in the red and grey rock ; and the vistas of islands, and of the grand sweep of Lake Superior, which is here about 100 miles wide, are delightful, those portions called Jackfish Bay and Nepigon Bay being specially striking. The Biver Ne- pigon, which empties into Lake Su- perior, is noted the world over for the great size of its speckled trout. Indeed, all the streams in this part of the country deserve the sports- man's attention. Fort William, on Lake Superior (Hotel, Ft. William Hotel, pop. 2.800), which is reached in the early afternoon of the second day, is the terminus of the eastern division of the C. P. B. Those who prefer the water to the land, or who take Toronto and Niagara en route, may in summer (May to November inclusive) thread their way through the great lakes, on one of the C. P. E. magnificent lake steamers, from Owen Sound on Georgian Bay (Lake Huron) — a voyage of somewhat less than two days — and join the rail- way here. At Fort William, des- tined from its position to become ere long an immense city, the traveller will begin to realise the magnitude of the wheat and lumber trade of the Great North- West, when he beholds the piers and the wharves crowded with shipping, and the immense grain elevators, some of which hold as much as 1,500,000 bushels each. Ee-entering the train, we find that the clocks have been put back an hour, making it appear as if we re-started before we had ! arrived ! For the purpose of reckon- ing time, Canada is divided, at intervals of 15 degrees of longitude, into four districts, in each of which the clock is one hour slower than in that to the east of it. There is [ V ] Eastern Time (5 hours slow of Greenwich) east of Fort William. Central Time (6 hours slow of Greenwich) from Fort William to Brandon. Mountain Time (7 hours slow of Greenwich) from Brandon to Donald. Pacific Time (8 hours slow of Greenwich) from Donald to Van- couver and Victoria. Furthermore, at all the C. P. R. Stations west of Fort William, the 11 24 Hour System " is in use. By this system, the terms A.M. and P.M. are abolished, and the hours from noon to midnight are called 13, 14, and so on up to 24 o'clock. The third day of the journey may be called the Prairie Pay, as a great stretch of the vast prairie will be traversed on that day, There is charming lake and woodland scen- ery from the station of Eagle Biver on to Bat Portage and Keewatin. Rat Portage (pop. 2,000) is a town of some importance at the principal outlet of the Lake of the Woods, a lovely body of water, with bays and quiet reaches, and dotted with countless islands — a very mirror j of peace and seclusion from the world. It was through, the rough and broken-: country stretching from Fort William to Winnipeg (or Fort Garry, as it was then called), a distance of 500 miles by the Winnipeg river, that General Wolseley led ; an armed expedition of over 1,500 men to suppress a rebellion of the half-breed French-Indians on the Eed River in the | year 1870, nsing the more or less connected lakes and rivers much of the way. Beyond Whitemouth tbe country gradually flattens out, and becomes as level as a billiard table before the train reaches Winnipeg: (Hotels, Manitoba, Clarendon, Leland, and Queen's), situated at the junction of the Red River and the Assiniboine, with railways radiating in every direction like the spokes of a wheel. Win- nipeg naturally commands the trade of the whole North-West, whence doubtless the magic growth which, in a little over two decades, has converted the insignificant village of about 200 inhabitants into a bustling city of 32,000, who boast public buildings on a grand scale and every convenience of modern civilization. Winnipeg, in fact, is the type of a go-ahead, successful, western city. The eye is caught in all directions by advertisements in various languages pointing out to immigrants the facilities for buying land in the as yet thinly peopled surrounding country. Winnipeg is the point of junction with the Canadian Pacific Railway of trains from Chicago, St. Paul, Minneapolis, and other western cities of the United States. The whole of the day is spent in speeding along over flat land mostly devoted to the cultivation of grain. Brandon (pop. 5,400) is the largest grain market in Manitoba, itself the greatest grain-producing province of the Dominion. Begina (pop, 2,200), capital of the North-West Territories, which com- prise the districts of Assiniboia, Alberta, Saskatchewan, and Atha- basca, is reached in the afternoon. Here a branch line extends away to the Saskatchewan country in the north. From Regina west is, per- haps, to a stranger the most novel and interesting part of the whole journey hitherto. The people themselves look different. Indians are to be seen at some of the railway stations as we pass through, and here and there the red coats and spurred boots of the North- West Mounted Police, whose business it is to look after the Indians and preserve order general- ly. The approach of the train scares flocks of "prairie chickens " (a de- licate game bird) to flight ; and 11 coyotes," " gophers," and oc- casionally antelopes scamper off as : hard as they can tear over the buffalo grass that tufts the dry soil. Of buffaloes there now remain, alas ! but the bones. Wanton slaughter has exterminated this noble breed, and large oblong piles of whitening heads and horns and [ VI ] other bones form a unique feature at several of the stations. But though the buffaloes are no more, their tracks still intersect the plain in countless numbers, showing the way the herds took to and from the watering places. At Pasqua, thirty- three miles west of Regina, the line from Sault Ste Marie, Michigan, which connects at that point with the Canadian Pacific Railway's Sault Ste Marie branch from Sud- bury, and which runs via St. Paul and Minneapolis through Minnesota and Dakota, rejoins the main line of the Canadian Pacific Railway. From time to time little lakes are passed, some of them alive with swans, geese, ducks, and pelican ; and arid as the soil looks, much of it has been found to be excellently rich, needing only irrigation and care to make it bear abundant harvests. Other parts, however, are better adapted for rearing horses and cattle. Though apparently so flat on either side of the railway, the hills occasionally seen in the distance betoken a general gradual rise in the land. Medicine Hat,— a town of 1,000 inhabitants, stands at an elevation of over 2,000 feet. From here on- wards, in the summer time, the country presents the aspect of a billowy ocean of grass. By early rising, we should get our first view of the Rocky Mountains from Gleichen. Calgary is reached in the early morning. It is a typically pro- gressive place, now dignified by the name of "city" — the first one in the Territories — and stands at an elevation of 3,300 feet. Its popula- tion is 4,500. Having discarded the dining car which accompanied us across the plains, we breakfast here in the first of the model restaurants which the Canadian Pacific Rail- way Co. has erected in the moun- tain section. From Calgary a branch line extends South to near the international boundary line through the ranching country, and | another North for about 200 miles I into what has been proved to be the best mixed farming country on | the North American continent. The Fourth or Rocky Mountain Day is partly spent in this justly i celebrated range, whose extraordin- arily jagged formation will prepare the traveller to appreciate the truth of Japanese and Chinese representa- tions of mountain scenery deemed , by many exaggerated. After the long journey across the plains, what a relief to mind as well as body are the crisp air, the rushing water, and the heaven-soaring peaks that j accompany us from now onwards to the Pacific Coast, as we rush in succession through the Rockies, the Selkirks, the Gold Range, and the Cascade Range ! The gap by which the railway enters the mountains, occurs just beyond the station of Kananaskis ; and soon after, at Canmorc, an " observa- tion car " is attached to the train, so that travellers may enjo}- an unobstructed view of the countless Castles of Nature. Soon we pass through Anthracite, noted for its coal mines, and arrive at Banff Hot Spring's (C. P. R. Hotel), which is the best place on the whole line at which to break j the journey. Banff stands at a height of 4,500 feet. \ Its charming situation, surrounded as the village is by mountains, recalls the Tyro- ! lean or Austrian Alps, and the numerous . drives and excursions in the neighbour- ; hood point it out as an excellent summer holiday resort. The warm springs form a natural bath in a cave not far from the hotel. The stretch of country, 26 miles long by 10 miles wide, in which Banff lies, has been made into a "National Park." It being impossible in this brief sketch to describe in detail the beauties of this part of the journey, which crow T d upon the eye every moment of the day, we must refer the traveller to the " Annotated Time Table " published by the C. P. R. Company. Lsiggan (4,930 ft.), 1 hour beyond Banff, is the station for the "Lakes [ VII ] in the Clouds." Ponies and vehicles are here in waiting for tourists in- tending to visit these picturesque and interesting lakes. Lake Louise, which is the first, lies about three miles from the station and 600 ft. above the railway and is easily reached. On the margin of this beautiful lake there is a comfortable Chalet hotel where parties take lun- cheon, and where, if any desire to stay over, beds can be obtained. A guide can be engaged if required for excursions from this point. There is a bridle path to Mirror Lake higher up the mountain ; and the still further ascent to Lake Agnes — a short distance — is done on foot. These mountain lakes afford a very pleasant and inexpen- sive day's outing for those who remain over at Banff. The summit of the Eockies is reached soon after at Stephen (5,296 ft.), and then begins the precipitous descent along the bank of the Kickiug-Horse Eiver, where, until the feat had been accomplished, it would have seemed almost incredible that a line of railway could be made to cling so securely to such dizzy glacier-o'er- shadowed heights. The easy but serpentine passage of this portion of the road is always an object of interest to the occupants of the train. Fishermen might like to stay at Field, where there is an ex- cellent Chalet Hotel operated by the C. P. E. Co. The passage of the Eockies terminates at the small mining town of Golden, situated on the Eiver Columbia, in a Swiss- looking valley, with the Selkirk Range, which the train now has to climb, beyond. Notice the great trees, — spruce, Douglas fir, and cedars — on this range, of which Mounts Sir Donald and Hermit are the highest peaks. It is on this portion of the line that are seen the perfect arrangements that have been made for rendering innocuous any snow-slides that may from time to time occur. Exactly op- posite Mount Sir Donald is another of the C. P. R. Co.'s Chalet Hotels which, like the others, is a model of convenience and comfort. It is well-patronized by sportsmen and by tourists, the former using it as a starting-point for expeditions after the mountain sheep, the mountain goat, etc., and the latter taking advantage of its com- fortable accommodation to enjoy the beauty of the surrounding scenery and to make excursions in the mountains or to the Great Glacier of the Selkirks, the foot of which is within a mile of the hotel. The Asulkan and Dawson glaciers are not far away. Both are of enormous size, and the former is easily accessible, but the Dawson, resting in a deep and narrow gorge, has as yet been explored by few. From Selkirk Summit (4,300 ft.), we pass down the valley of the Illicilli- waet where the line is built in a series of extraordinary curves, called "the Loop," doubling upon itself again and again. About 22 miles beyond the Glacier House is the Albert Canon, a remarkable gorge through which the foaming waters of the Illicilliwaet river ever rush in a narrow channel. The train stops here for a few minutes ■. to allow passengers to alight, and view the gorge from the summit of its confining rock. Hevelstoke stands in a good : sporting country at the western base of the Selkirks, and not far from the ■ eastern base of the Gold Range. I This is one of the grandest portions of the whole journey, the passage down the Thompson Canon being one continuous series of delightful ■ surprises. From Eevelstoke, a ! Branch railway runs down to the ! head of the Upper Arrow Lakes and ; around to New Denver, in the heart J of the mining regions ; and steamers I ply on the Arrow lakes to Eobson. The Fifth or Fraser Canon Day i makes a glorious termination to the i journey across the great Western | Continent. The Canon begins 4 I miles beyond North Bend, where a [ VIII ] stop is made for breakfast at an- other of the C. P. R. Chalet Hotels, a house similar in appearance and excellence to those at Field and the Great Glacier, — a good point from which to make excursions to the celebrated Canons of the Fraser river. From this point on for 23 miles to the station of Yale, the austere grandeur of the scene passes the power of words to describe ; the dark frowning rocV;, the great trees, the rushing river far below, the sense of mystery and of power forming a whole that is almost overwhelming. No better prepara- tion (by way of contrast) can be imagined for those about to plunge into the Capua of Japan, than the unapproachably severe magnificence of the Fraser River Valley, which seems like some grand moral lesson translated into terms of scenery. After the station of Hope, where we descend to an altitude of only 200 feet above sea-level, many small towns are passed. West Coast In- dians differing individually from those of the plains may be seen from time to time, also Chinamen in considerable numbers, who are emplo}*ed as navvies on the line or gain their living as miners, washer- men, cooks, etc. All this part of the country was formerly famous for the immense size of its trees, and occasional specimens are still to be seen surviving the ruthless waste of the early settlers. The Fraser here becomes a wide, stately river ; but there is beauty on its banks the whole way to the Coast, and Mt. Baker, a cone 13,000 feet in height constantly greets our gaze. The train reaches Vancouver soon after midday on the Fifth Day, and the long but by no means tedious jour- ney is at an end. Vancouver (Hotel Vancouver, operated by the C. P. R. Co., Manor House, etc.,) founded in 1886, has ; already a population of 20,000, and is the starting-point of the C. P. R. steamships that cross the Pacific to Honolulu, Australia, Japan, and China, the sailings to the Anti- podes being monthly, and to Asiatic ports every three weeks ' in summer and monthly in winter. The mountains and the sea com- bine to make for it a charm- ing entourage. None should fail to drive out to Stanley Park to see the giant trees of which British Colum- bians are so proud. Those staying a few days in this neighbourhood should also visit the city of Victoria the capital of the Province, on the | southern extremity of Vancouver Island (Hotel Driard), 6 hours dis- ; taut by steamer through the island- '. dotted waters of the Straits of Geor- ' gia. EsGinmaali, three miles east of Victoria and connected with it by an electric railway, is the head- quarters of the British navy on the North Pacific Coast. The Japan steamers frcrn Vancouver touch at Victoria to pick up such passengers as may prefer to embark at the latter place. The steamers do not proceed farther than the mouth of the harbour, the passengers being brought off by a tender. The last stage of the journey is the 4,300 miles of Pacific Ocean that lie be- tween Vancouver and Yokohama. It takes from 10 to 13 days to per- form it ; but with the magnificent White Empresses of the Canadian Pacific's staunch fleet, the crossing of the Western ocean is robbed of all the unpleasantness and incon- venience of an ordinary sea vo} T age. The three Empresses — of India, of China, and of Japan — are each of 6,000 tons burthen, with 10,000 horse-power, have a speed of 19 knots, and are without rivals on the Pacific. Handbook for Travellers JAPAN. INTRODUCTION. Page. 1. General ; Books on Japan ; 15. Maps 1 16. 2. Stearo. Communication .... 2 17. 3. Custom-House 3 IS. 4. Public Holidays 3 19. 5. Treaty Limits ; Passports . . 3 20. 6. Guides 5 21. 7. Posts ; Telegraphs ; Banks. . 5 j 22. 8. Currency 5 ' 23. 9. Weights and Measures 6 21, 10. Inns ; Travelling Expenses . 7 11. Climate ; Dress ; Time of 25. Visit 8 26, 12. Provisions 10 13. Means of Locomotion ; I 27. Luggage 10 23, 14. Where to Go and What to See 12 29, Page. Purchases ; Objects of Art . . 13 Shipment of Goods 14 Shooting 14 Fishing 15 Miscellaneous Hints 16 Language 18 The Shinto Religion 32 Kyobu Shinto 34 Japanese Buddhism 35 List of Gods and God- desses 39 Christian Mission Stations.. 50 Outline of Japanese His- tory 51 Celebrated Personages .... 53 Population of the Chief Cities 68 Outline Tours 68 1. — General; Books on Japan; Maps. Japan, secluded for over two centuries from contact with the outer world, was burst open by the American expedition in 1853-4 under the command of Commodore Perry. Making a virtue of necessity, her rulers soon determined to Europeanise the country as the best means of pre- serving its independence. Ships were bought, foreign naval and military instructors engaged, feudalism replaced by a centralised autocracy, education re-organised on the pattern offered by Western nations, posts, telegraphs, and railways introduced, European dress, European manners, European amusements adopted, Buddhism disestablished, Christianity — if not encouraged — at least no longer persecuted. In short, in every sphere of activity the old order gave way to the new. But even Japan, 2 Introduction: — Steam Communication. great as is the power of imitation and assimilation possessed by her people, has not been able completely to transform her whole material, men- tal, and social being within the limits of a single lifetime. Fortunately for the curious observer, she continues in a state of transition, — less Japanese and more European day by day, it is true, but still retaining characteristics of her own, especially in the dress, manners, and beliefs of the lower classes. Those who wish to see as much as possible of the old order of things should come quickly. It is impossible within the limits of this Introduction to enter into those details of rice, history, customs, religion, art, literature, etc., which, com- bined with the influence exercised more recently by Europe and America, have made Japan what she is to-day. The traveller who desires to travel intelligently — to do more than merely wander from hotel to hotel — may be referred for a summary of such information to a small work entitled Tilings Japanese^ where, if he wishes for still more, he will find references to the original authorities in each special branch. Of religion alone, a short sketch seemed indispensable, as the temples are among Japan's chief sights ; an outline of history and lists of gods and celebrated per- sonages have been added, in order to assist the traveller to thread his way through the maze of proper names with w T hich he will be confronted. In Japan, more than in any European country, is it necessary to take some trouble in order to master such preliminary information. For whereas England, Fi-ance, Italy, Germany, and the rest, all resemble each other in their maiu features, because all have alike grown up in a culture fundamentally identical, this is not the case with Japan. He, therefore, who should essay to travel without having learnt a word concerning Japan's past, would run the risk of forming opinions ludicrously erroneous. We would also specially recommend Griffis's Mikado's Em- pire and Eein's Japan and The Industries of Japan, as books which it would be profitable to read on the way out. Rein's works are, it is true, fitted only for the serious student, who is prepared for hard words and technical details ; but The Mikado's Empire is calculated to appeal to all classes of readers. Of books on Japanese art, Anderson's Pictorial Arts of Japan is by far the best. We may perhaps also mention Huish's more handy Japan and its Art. Morse's Japanese Homes is an excellent description, not only of the dwellings of the people, but of all the articles belonging to their daily life. Lafcadio Hearn, in his Glimpses of Unfamil- iar Japan, treats with intimate knowledge and sympathy of their man- ners, customs, and beliefs. The elaborate series of maps now in course of publication at the Imperial Geological Office may be obtained of Messrs. Kelly and Walsh at Yokohama. 2. — Steam Communication. Japan may be reached by the Canadian Pacific Company's steamers from Vancouver in 14 days; by the Pacific Mail or the Occidental and Oriental Company's steamers from San Francisco in about 16 days, or 18 days if Honolulu be touched at ; by the Northern Pacific Company's steam- ers from Tacoma in about 15 days ; or else from Europe through the Suez Canal by the Peninsular and Oriental steamers from London or Brindisi ; by the Messa^eries Maritimes from Marseilles, and by the Norddeutscher Lloyd from Bremerhaven, Southampton, or Genoa in about 40 days. There are also outside steamers from London, notably those of the " Glen " and " Shire " Lines. Yokohama is the connecting port of all the above. Custom- House. Public Holidays. Treaty Limits. Passports. 3 The principal Japanese Company is the Nippon Yusen Kwaisha (Japan Mail Steamship Company), which runs steamers from Yokohama almost daily to Kobe, weekly to Nagasaki and Shanghai, every third day to Hakodate and Otaru ; from Kobe weekly to Sakai, Tsuruga, Niigata, and Hakodate, occupying altogether about six weeks on the round trip ; also at longer intervals to the Loochoo and Bonin Islands. The Com- pany also runs frequent steamers to the principal Korean and Chinese ports and to Vladivostock in Siberia, also occasional steamers to Manila, Honolulu, and Australia. Numerous smaller companies run steamers to the Inland Sea ports and other points on the coast, and also on some of the larger rivers and lakes. Boats — known in the Treaty Ports as sampans — ply in all the har- oours, and land passengers from the steamers. The usual fare from ship to shore, or vice versa, is from 10 to 20 sen per head. Hotel boats are in attendance at the larger places. 3. — Custom-House. Strict examination of the luggage of passengers is made at the Custom-House, and the best way to avoid trouble and delay is to open up everything freely. Cameras, sporting gear, most special apparatus, and many other articles, but not ordinary personal effects, are liable to duty. 4. — Public Holidays. The Custom-House and other public offices observe the following holidays : — Jan. 1] ,, 3 -New Year Holidays (Shogicatsu) . o) ,, 30. Anniversary of death of Komei Tenno, the late Emperor. Feb. 11. Accession of Jimmu Tenno in 660 B.C., and Promulgation of Constitution in 1889, (Kigen-setsic). Mar. 20. Spring Equinox (Shunki Korci-sai). April 3. Death of Jimmu Tenno. Sept. 23. Autumn Equinox (Shuki Eorei-sai). Oct. 17. Harvest Thanksgiving to the Deities of Ise (Sliinjo-sai, also called Kan-name Matswri). Nov. 3. Mikado's Birthday (Tenclio-setsu). ,, 23. Second Harvest Festival (Shinjo-sai, or Nii-name Matsuri). The foreign banks, besides observing Christmas, New Year, and some of the Japanese holidays, keep the Chinese New Year, the German Em- peror's birthday on the 27th January, the Queen's birthday, and the American and French national anniversaries. 5. — Treaty Limits ; Passports. Foreigners* have the right to reside without passports in the Foreign Settlements at the " Open Ports " (also called " Treaty Ports ") of Yoko- * " Foreigners " Map. gwaikokiijin or ijin) is the word universally employed in Japan to denote all persons of Caucasian race. It will sound odd to new-comers to hear Englishmen speaking of themselves as " foreigners," " we foreigners." 4 Introduction: — Treaty Limits. Passports. hama, Kobe, Osaka, Nagasaki, Hakodate, and Niigata, and to travel to any place within a radius of 10 ri 9 that is nearly 24J miles, from those ports. Travelling West from Yokohama, the last place on the Tokaido Railway to which one may go without a passport is Kozu. Tokyo, though not property an Open Port, may be visited without a passport, as may also its immediate neighbourhood ; and the night may be spent at any of the foreign hotels, or at a friend's house, without let or hindrance. Passports for visiting other portions of Japan may be obtained by tourists and all others not in Japanese employ by personal application to the authorities of the country to which they belong, these officials obtaining them from the Japanese Foreign Office. Thus, Englishmen must apply through the British Consulate at Tokyo, Yokohama, or other Treaty Port (the British Legation is not the proper channel for such applica- tions), Americans through the United States Legation in Tokyo or any of the American Consulates. Applications sent from abroad are not entertained by the British authorities. The American Legation, while permitting such applications, requires proof of citizenship from the applicant. Two or more names may be included in the same application, if it is desired to obtain a single passport for two or more persons, for instance, a husband and wife with their children. Every application should state the time for which the passport is desired, three months being the maximum usually granted. It is also desirable to state that the journey is intended "for the benefit of my health," or "for scientific purposes." Foreign employes must apply through their Japanese employers. Persons wishing to travel at the close of the year should bear in mind that no applications for passports are entertained by the Foreign Office between the 25th December and 4th January inclusive. British subjects are mulcted by their Consuls in the sum of $2 per passport, while Americans obtain theirs for a few cents. Three or four days generally elapse between the application for a passport and its delivery. The Hakone-Miyanoshita-Atami district forms an exception to this rule. Passports for it can be obtained within a few minutes at the Kenclio (Prefecture) or at the Consulates in Yokohama, on payment of a small fee. A similar rule holds good at Kobe with regard to passports for the Kyoto - 2Tara and Lake Biwa district, and at Nagasaki for the baths of Ureshino and Takeo. It will often be found highly convenient to avail of one of these lesser passports while waiting for the more extensive one. The Japanese authorities generally insist on being exactly informed of the route the traveller purposes taking. He is therefore advised to make out his application with some minuteness, mentioning as many routes and places on each route as possible. This he can best do, either by copyiDg portions of the headings and names of the chief places in the itineraries given at the beginning of each Route in this volume, or be- taking counsel with some resident friend. After all, he is not obliged to- visit every place on his programme, which had therefore better err on the side of over-fulness than on that of scantiness. A list of so-called Fixed Routes has been issued by the British authorities, and copied with a few improvements by the American authorities (see Section 29). The term Fixed Routes does not imply that travel is in any way restricted to the routes in question. The arrangement is meant only to save trouble to applicants as well as to the Consuls. The "Thirteen Provinces round Fuji " (Fuji-mi Ju-san-shii ) form a favourite, including much of the loveliest scenery in Japan. A list of their names is given on the margin of the General Map which accompanies this work. Guides. Posts. Telegraphs. Banks. Currency. 5 6. — Guides. Guides understanding English can be procured of the Guides' Asso- ciation (Kaiyusha) at Yokohama and Kobe, with branches at Tokyo and Kyoto. Apply at any of the hotels. The fixed charge at present (1894) is advertised as follows : — " Two dollars per day for a party of one or two tourists ; over two, 25 cents added for each tourist. In all cases the guide's travelling expenses must be paid by his employer, except his hotel expenses." A guide is an absolute necessity to persons unacquainted with the language. Those knowing a little Japanese may feel themselves more their own masters by hiring a man-servant, or " boy," also able to cook, and having neither objection to performing menial functions, nor opinions of his own as to the route which it will be best to take. 7. — Posts ; Telegraphs ; Banks. The Imperial Japanese Post and Telegraph services are excellent. Letters and papers can be forwarded with perfect safety to the different stages of a journey. The Post-Office Order system is thoroughly efficient, and will be found useful by travellers who wish to avoid carrying about much money. In most towns of any size, the Post and Telegraph Offices are com- bined. Telegrams in any of the principal European languages cost 5 cents per word, with a minimum charge of 25 cents, addresses being charged for. A telegram in Japanese of 10 Kana characters costs 15 cents, addresses not being charged for, and the foreign residents therefore often avail themselves of this means of communication. Telephone Ex- changes have been established in some of the larger towns. There are at Yokohama, Kobe, and Nagasaki branches or agencies of the Hongkong and Shanghai Bank, the Chartered Bank of India, Austra- lia, and China, and the National Bank of China. 8. — Currency. The values are decimal, with the yen, or silver dollar, as the unit. One yen contains 100 sen or cents ; one sen contains 10 rin. The currency consists of gold which is practically never seen ; of silver pieces of 1 yen, 50 sen, 20 sen, 10 sen, and 5 sen ; of nickel pieces of 5 sen ; of copper pieces of 2 sen, 1 sen, 5 rin, and 1 rin besides others issued during feudal days representing 1J rin, 8 rin (these are oblong pieces called tempo, now rarely seen), etc. ; and of paper money worth 20 sen, 50 sen, 1 yen, 5 yen, 10 yen, and various larger sums. Mexican silver dollars can be passed only at the Treaty Ports. It is best to travel with paper money, both because of its superior portability, and because it is better known to the inhabitants of the interior than the silver yen. One of the first things the tourist should do is to learn the difference between the various notes for the values above-mentioned. He is advised to take with him no notes of a higher denomination than 10 yen, as it is often difficult to get change except in in the big towns. ^ ■ ■ Introduction: — Weights and Measures. 9. — Weights and Measures. Distances are reckoned by ri and chd, 36 chd going to the ri* One ri is equal to 2.44 English statute miles, or, roughly speaking, to a trifle under 2£ miles. One chd is equal to 358 English feet, or -^ of a mile. The chd is subdivided into 60 ken (1 ken—6 ft. approximately), and the ken into 6 shako, (1 shaku=l ft. approximately). The subdivisions of the shaku follow the decimal system. Throughout this work, the distances are given in ri and chd as well as in miles, as visitors to Japan drop very soon into the Japanese method of reckoning, which indeed must be learnt in any case, as coolies, jinriMsha-men, and others know nothing of English miles. A word of caution may here be given against the habit of certain Japanese having a superficial knowledge of English, who mistranslate the world ri by " miles." The following table, borrowed from Dr. Whitney's Dictionary of Roads, Toicns, and Tillages of Japan, will be found useful : — EQUIVALENTS OF JAPANESE SI AND CHO IN ENGLISH MILES. Japanese Ri. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 S 9 Miles Miles Miles Miles Miles Miles Miles Miles Miles Miles Miles 1 2.44 24.40 26.84 29.28 31.72 34.16 36.60 39.04 41.49 43.93 46.37 2 4.88 48.81 51.25 53. 69 56.13 58.57 61.01 63.45 65.89 6S.3S 70.77 3 7.32 73.20 75.65 7S.09 80.53 82.97 85.41 87.85 90.29 92.73 95.17 4 9.76 97.61 100.05 102.49 104.93 107.37 109.81 112.25 114.69 117.13 119.58 5 12.20 122.01 124.46 126.90 129.34 131.78 134.21 136.66 139.10 141.54 143. 9S 6 14.R4 146.43 148.87 151.31 153.75 156.19 158.63 161.07 163.51 165.95 168.39 7 17.08 170.S3 178.27 175.71 178.15 1S0.59 183.03 185.47 187.91 190.35 192.79 8 19.52 195.23 197.67 200.11 202.55 205.00 207.44 209.S8 212.32 214.76 217.20 9 21.96 219.64 222.0b 224.52 226.96 2*9.40 231.84 234.28 236.72 239.16 241.60 Chd Miles Chd Miles Chd Miles Chd Miles Chd Miles Chd Miles 1 0.07 7 0.47 13 0.88 19 1.29 25 1.69 31 2.10 2 0.14 S 0.54 14 0.95 20 1.36 26 1.76 32 2.17 3 0.20 9 0.61 15 1.02 21 1.42 27 1.83 33 2.24 4 0.27 10 0.68 16 1.08 22 1.49 28 1 .90 34 2.3D 5 0.3-1 11 0.75 17 1.15 23 1.56 29 1.97 35 2.37 6 0.41 12 0.81 IS 1.22 24 1.63 30 2.03 36 2.44 Long Measure (Kane). 10 bu=l sun (often translated " inch," but= 1.19 inches of English measure); 10 sun—1 shaku; 6 shaku—1 ken ; 10 sliaku=ljd. The jo, equal to about 10 English feet, is the unit employed in measuring heights and depths. Cloth Measure (Kujira). 10 bu==lsun; 10 stin—1 shaku, or nearly 12 inches ; 10 shaku=l jo. In this measure, the shaku is 4 longer than in Long Measure. Land Measure (Tsubo). The unit is the tsubo, nearly equivalent to 4 square yards English. An acre is nearly equivalent to 1,210 tsubo. 1 cho -2 J acres, and 1 ri (square) =6 sq. miles, approximately. Measure of Capacity. 10 go— 1 slid, which contains about 103J cubic inches, and is a little larger than 1£ quart; 10 shd=l ro, nearly half a * Some mountain districts have a longer ri of 50 cho. Inns. Travelling Expenses. 7 bushel, or, for liquids, 4 gallons ; 10 to=l koku, which is a fraction less than 5 English bushels. Weights. The kin is about 1J lb. avoirdupois ; 1 lb. avoir. =about 120 momme. The kwan is equal to 1,000 momme (6J kin or a little over 8J lbs.). 10. — Inns ; Travelling Expenses. The inns are given from personal knowledge or from the best accessible authorities, an asterisk being sometimes prefixed to the name of a house specially worthy of mention. What is termed hatago at a Japanese inn includes supper, bed, and breakfast, for which a single charge is usually made. This varies in different parts of the country ; at present it ranges from 25 sen to 75 sen per head. Anything in the way of food or liquor ordered in addition to the meals supplied has to be paid for separately. There is no charge for firing, lighting, attendance, or bath, provided always the traveller is content with what is given to every one else, neither is there any for tea. But it is usual, shortly after arriving and being shown into a room, or in paying one's account just before leaving, to make a present, known as chadai or " tea-money." The latter course is recommended. With Japanese travellers, this tea-money varies with the rank of the individual, the amount of extra attention which he desires or has received, and with the quality of the accommodation. Generally they are very liberal. The foreign tourist is on a somewhat different footing, and there are seldom gradations of rank to be considered in his case. As a fair and practical solution of a vexed question, those who travel a lajaponaise and who are charged in accordance with the native scale, may be recommended to make the amount of their chadai vary from 25 sen to 50 sen per night. Therefore, for a single night's entertainment, the cost — hatago and chadai included — may be put down at from 50 cents to §1.25. If two or more persons are travelling together, the chadai is increased say to one-half more for two, and double for three persons. In some parts, especially at bathing resorts, there is a fixed rate for accommodation only, the food being charged for separately according to order. In such places, it is usual to make a present for distribution amongst the servants in addition to the chadai, whereas in the ordinary inns such presents are not looked for. It is but fair that foreigners should pay more than natives, both for accommodation and for jinrikishas. They usually weigh more, they almost always want to travel more quickly, they give infinitely more trouble at an inn with their demands for separate rooms, fresh water in the bath, the occupation of a portion of the kitchen to cook their European food in, and a dozen other such requirements, to say nothing of the necessity under which the host lies of reporting their presence to the police. In the Europeanised hotels at such frequented spots as Nikko, Kamakura, Miyanoshita, Kyoto, Nagoya, etc., the general charge is from $2.50 to §3.50 a day, everything included except wines. Tho charges at the hotels under foreign management in the Open Ports are generally slightly higher. The charge per diem for a native servant is about 50 sen a day. The average charge (to foreigners) for jinrikishas in the most frequented portions of the country is now (189^) from 10 to 15 sen per 77, the same per hour, and §1 per diem, — for sightseeing in the cities about 80 sen per diem. About 50 per cent, is added to these rates in bad weather -and at night. But the tendency of late years has been towards 8 Introduction: — Luis. Climate. Dress. constantly increased rates, owing to the rise in the price of rice and other staple commodities. It is usual to give a small gratuity (sakate) to jinrikisha-men after a hard run of any distance. Perhaps one might say that the total cost to a traveller of average requirements, travelling at a reasonable speed, and having with him a native servant, should not exceed $8 per diem. If he restricts himself to mountainous districts, the expense will be considerably less. A certain saving is also effected when two or three persons travel together. It will be seen from the above that the hostelries at which travellers in Japan put up are of three kinds, — the European hotel, the Euro- peanised or half-European half- Japanese hotel (hoteru), and the purely native inn (yadoya). The ryori-ya, or restaurant, supplies meals with less delay than the regular inns, but offers no sleeping accommodation. The tea-house (chaya) is different again, being a place where people neither sleep nor dine, but only halt for a short time to rest and take slight refreshment. Residents in Japan, however, often include inns under the denomination of tea-houses. Every little railway station has its tea-house which undertakes to purchase the traveller's ticket and check his luggage. The best style of Japanese inn is now generally supplied with a few chairs and tables ; or if there are none in the house, some can be brought in from the school or the police-station hard by, where they are de rigueur. Beds are still rare ; but good quilts (futon) are laid down on the mats, wherever may be most convenient ; a smaller quilt will be rolled into a pillow, and in summer a mosquito-net will be provided. No inn in native style has a dining-room. Each guest dines in his own apartment at whatever time he (or more often the host) may select. It is a common Japanese custom to carry letters of introduction (a?i- nai-jo) from inn to inn. This has advantages, especially in seasons of epidemic disease or under any other circumstances liable to cause the traveller to be viewed with suspicion, or when, for the purposes of any special investigation, he wishes to be brought into intimate relations with his hosts along the road. Many inns keep printed forms of annai-jo which they fill in with the traveller's name. Occasionally these, and the little paper slips in which toothpicks are wrapped up, as also the fans or towels which it is still the custom in many places to present on departure to those guests who have given a suitable cliadai, are charm- ing specimens of Japanese taste in small matters of every-day life. 11. — Climate ; Dkess ; Time of Visit. Remember that Japan is not in the tropics, and bring warm clothing with you, whatever be the season of your visit ; also very light clothing, if your visit be in the summer. Even in July, when the mean temperature of Tokyo is about 76° Fahrenheit, days may come when you will be glad of all your winter things. This applies still more to the mountains. On the other hand, be more careful of exposure to the sun than you would be in England. A sun helmet and a white umbrella are useful additions to the traveller's wardrobe. Though garments of the roughest description will suffice for the country districts, bring good clothes, such as might be worn at home, in which to appear at the larger hotels, and to mix, if need be, in society, whether Japanese or foreign. The Japanese authorities now attend their offices in frock or morning coats, and Europeans visiting them should be Climate. Dress. Time of Visit. 9 similarly attired. At a few of the highest social functions, frock-coats and tall hats are de rigueur. With regard to boots, it is advisable to wear such as can be pulled of! and on easily, as it is necessary to remove one's boots every time one enters a house or temple, in order not to soil the mats on which the Japanese sit. Grave of- fence is given, and naturally given, by the disregard of this cleanly custom. Light shoes or boots with elastic sides are therefore to be preferred, except for mountain work. If your boots give out, try the native straw sandals (icaraji) with the native sock (tabi), which give a better foothold than boots on smooth rocks. Many foreigners have found them excellent foot-gear, the only addition required being a small piece of cotton-wool to prevent chafing by the thong which passes between the great and second toes. Boots barely holding together can be made to last a day or two longer by tying icaraji underneath them. Kanjiki, that is, iron clamps of triangular shape with spikes, are often fastened below the icaraji for walking over snow. The native blue cotton gaiters called kyahan afford excellent protection against the attacks of flies, and from, the rank undergrowth so often found on the lower slopes of Japanese mountains. At Yokohama, Chinese tailors attend the hotels, and will fit out travellers literally between a night and a morning with duck, crape, and other light clothing. Washing is expeditiously done at the Open Ports and at the principal summer resorts. Roughly speaking, the Japanese summer is hot and occasionally wet ; September and the first half of October much wetter ; the late autumn and early winter cool, comparatively dry, and delightful ; February and March disagreeable, with occasional snow and dirty weather, which, is all the more keenly felt in Japanese inns devoid of fire-places ; the late spring rainy and windy, with beautiful days interspersed. But different years vary greatly from each other. The average temperature of January, which is the coldest month, is between 36° and 37° Fahrenheit at Tokyo ; but there are frequent frosts at night during five months of the year, namely, from November to March inclusive. Skatiug is rare in Tokyo. The average temperature of August is 78°, and the thermometer some- times registers over 90°. The climate of Northern Japan from Sendai onwards is much colder in winter, though not appreciably cooler during July and August. A similar remark applies even more forcibly to the entire West coast, which is exposed to the icy winds that blow direct from Siberia. Kishu, Southern Shikoku, and Southern Kyushu are warmer all the year round. Each traveller must judge for himself from the above remarks which season to select for his tour. If possible, he should be either in Tokyo or in Kyoto during the first half of April to see the lovely display of cherry-blossoms, which are followed throughout the early summer by other flowers — peonies, azaleas, wistarias, irises — well-worth seeing both for their own sake and for that of the picturesque crowds of Japanese sight-seers whom they attract. If not able to visit Kyoto early in April, he should try to be there at the end of October or early in November, when the autumn leaves are in all their glory of red and gold. Tokyo is less favoured in this respect, but the chrysanthemums there early in November are magnificent. The summer may most advantageously be devoted to Nikko, to Mij^anoshita, Arima, Unzen, or other mineral bath resorts, or else to travelling in Yezo and in the high mountainous districts of the interior of the Main Island, which are practically inaccessible 10 Introduction : — Provisions. except between June and October. Fuji is only ascended during the hottest period of summer. 12. — Provisions. Except at a few of the larger towns and favourite hill or sea-side resorts, meat, bread, and the other forms of European food are unknown. Even chickens are but rarely to be obtained ; for though plenty may be seen in almost every village, the people object to sell them — partly be- cause they keep them for the sake of their eggs, partly on account of a lingering Buddhist dislike to taking life. Those, therefore, who cannot live on the native fare of rice, eggs, and fish (this, too, not to be counted on in the mountains), should carry their own supplies with them. Wines, spirits, and cigars are equally unobtainable ; but beer is to be met with in most tow T ns, the Kirin Beer brewed at Yokohama being excellent. It is advisable to take one or two knives, forks, spoons, a corkscrew, a tin-opener, and the most elementary cooking utensils. Plates and glasses can be borrowed almost everywhere. Persons fairly easy to please and who wish to travel lightly, can reduce the size of their pro- vision basket by using the rice, fish, and eggs of the country as auxiliary to what they carry with them. Curry-powder will often help to make insipid Japanese dishes palatable, and shoyu (soy) adds a zest to soups. When starting off for the first time, it is best to err on the side of taking too much. Many who view Japanese food hopefully from a distance, have found their spirits sink and their tempers embittered when brought face to face with its unsatisfying actuality. Milk may now sometimes be obtained at the towns aloug the Tokaido, Nakasendo, and other chief highways, but should not be counted on. The yolk of an egg beaten up is considered by many to be a good sub- stitute for it in tea or coffee. It is essential to avoid all water into which rice-fields may have drained. In the plains, water should be filtered and boiled before drinking. The following Japanese articles of food are considered palatable by most foreigners : Kasuteira, sponge-cake. Miso-sliiru, bean-soup. Sakana no shio-yaki, broiled fish. Sakana no tempura, fish fritter. Sake, a strong liquor made from rice and generally taken hot. Sembei, thin biscuits of various kinds. Tamago-yaki, a sort of omelette. Tori-nabc, chicken cut up small and stewed. Uslii-nabe, beef similarly treated. Unagi-mcslhi, layers of rice with eels done in soy. Yokan, sweet-bean paste. 13. — Means of Locomotion ; Luggage. Take the railway wherever available. On those plains which no railway yet traverses, take a jinrikisha. Avoid the native basha (carriage), if you have either nerves to shatter or bones to shake, and be very chary of burdening yourself with a horse and saddle of your own in the interior, as all sorts of troubles are apt to arise with regard to shoeing, run-away grooms (betto), etc. Such, in a few words, is Means of Locomotion. Luggage. 11 our advice, founded on long personal experience. Other possible con- veyances are pack-horses (but the Japanese pack-saddle is torture), cows, the kago — a species of small palanquin, uncomfortable at first, but not dis- liked by many old residents, — and lastly chairs borne by four coolies ; but these have only recently been introduced from China, and are not found except at Miyanoshita, Nikko, and a very few other places much resorted to by foreigners. The pleasantest sort of trip for a healthy man is that in which walking and jinrikisha-riding are combined. In the hilly districts which make Japan so picturesque, walking is the only possible, or at least the only pleasant, method of progression. The luggage is then taken on a pack-horse or on a coolie's back. Persons intending to go at all off the beaten tracks are advised to compress their luggage within narrow limits. This is specially neces- sary in the thinly populated mountainous parts of the country, where one coolie — not improbably a grandfather superannuated from regular work, or possibly a buxom lass, — is often the sole means of transport that a village can supply, all the horses being generally with their masters miles away in the mountains. It is always best to avoid large boxes and portmanteaus, and to divide the luggage into two or three smaller pieces for convenience in piling on a coolie's hod, or for balancing the two sides of a pack-horse's load. The Japanese wicker baskets called yanagi-gori are much recommended, as cheap, portable, capacious, and contractable. The yanagi-gori (often called kori for short) consists of an oblong basket, with a second fitting over it to any depth as a cover, and is consequently convenient, not only for clothes and books, but for provisions, since the size of the basket can be diminished as the stores are consumed, without any empty space being left for the remaining articles to rattle about in. A pair of these yanagi-gori — one for personal effects, the other for provisions — should suffice to him who intends to rough it. They should be provided with a large wrapper of oil-paper (abiira-kami) against the rain, and fastened either with cords which can be procured anywhere, or with stout leather straps. As to Japanese roads, no general opinion can be expressed. Some- times excellent when first made, they are often kept in insufficient repair. Travellers must therefore not be astonished if they come across roads, which, though mentioned in this work as good for jinrikishas, have become almost impassable even for foot passengers — the result of a single season of floods or typhoons. The changes in this respect are in proportion to the violence of the Japanese climate. It is furthermore probable that the distances given in our itineraries differ slightly in some cases from the actual truth, notwithstanding all the care taken to obtain information as accurate as possible. It is hoped, however, that such discrepancies will never be so great as seriously to affect the traveller's plans. An apparent error of J mile will occasionally be observed in the total mileage of the itineraries. This arises from the fact that, the mileage of each stage of a journey being given only within J mile of the actual distance, the fractional errors thus arising, though balanced and allowed for as carefully as possible, sometimes unavoidably accumulate. On the other hand, the so-called total mileage is obtained, not by adding up the mileage column, but by direct calculation (also within J mile) of the value of the total in ri and did. On the railroads, men desirous of practising economy will find the second class quite good enough, and those who wish to make a near 12 Introduction: — Where to Go and What to See. acquaintance with Japanese life will meet in the second class with far more subject-matter for their investigations. But ladies are advised to travel first class, as smoking is general, and the ways of the Japanese lower middle class with regard to clothing, the management of children, and other matters, are not altogether as our ways. Some lines provide non- smoking second class compartments. There are as yet no sleeping-cars, dining-cars, or buffets ; but neat little boxes of Japanese food (bento), tea, beer, ice, and cakes are offered for sale at the principal stations by runners from the inns. The Railway Regulations permit holders of tickets for distances of over 50 miles to break their journey at the more important places. Luggage is checked as in the United States, each first-class passenger being allowed to carry 100 lbs. and each second-class passenger 60 lbs. free of charge. 14. — Where to Go and What to See. " How long does it take to do Japan?" is a question often asked. If by "doing" Japan, be meant hurrying through its chief sights, the globe-trotter can manage this in three or four weeks by adopting one of the Outline Tours given in Sec. 29. He who is bent on more serious observ- ation will not find four months too much ; and one who has spent that time rarely fails to come again. Travellers' tastes differ widely. Some come to study a unique civilisation, some come in search of health, some to climb volcanoes, others to investigate a special art or industry. Those who desire to investigate Buddhist temples will find what they want in fullest perfection at Kyoto, at Nara, at Tokyo, and at Nikko. The chief shrines of Shinto are at Ise and at Kitsuki in the province of Izumo. Those in search of health and comparative coolness during the summer months, to be obtained without much " roughing," are advised to try Miyanoshita, Nikko, or Ikao in the Tokyo district, Arima in the Kobe district, or (if they come from China, and wish to remain as near home as possible) Unzen in the Nagasaki district. All the above, except Kitsuki, may be safely recommended to ladies. Yezo is specially suited for persons residing in Japan proper, and desiring thorough change of air. At Hakodate they will get sea-bathing, at Sapporo they will get fishing if they go in June or early in July. But Japan is more especially the happy hunting-ground of the lover of the picturesque. With the symmetrical outlines of its volcanoes, with its fantastic rocks, its magnificent timber which somehow, even when growing naturally, produces the impression of having been planted for artistic effect, with its tiny shrines and quaint hostelries constantly placed so as to command vistas that delight the eye, this beautiful land is a fitting abode for the most esthetic of modern peoples. Every variety of scenery, from the gracefully lovely to the ruggedly grand, is here to be found. Of the former character are the neighbourhood of Yokohama (Kamakura, Enoshima, Kanazawa), the whole Hakone district, Fuji and its surround- ing ring of lakes, Nikko, Haruna, the Inland Sea, the Kiso valley, North-Eastern Kyushu, Matsushima in the North of the Main Island, and many more. Rugged and sublime in thair character are the Hida- Etchu range, Koma-ga-take in Koshu, the whole mass of mountains lying between the rivers Fujikawa and Tenryu-gawa, and the district near the North-Western coast including Mounts Chokai, Gwassan, and Haguro-san. But the travelling amidst these rough mountains is itself rough in the extreme. None but thoroughly healthy men, inured to Purchases. Objects of Art. 13 hardship, should attempt it. As for what is called " seeing Japanese life," the best plan is to avoid the Foreign Settlements in the Open Ports. You will see theatres, wrestling, dancing-girls, and the new Japan of European uniforms, political lectures, clubs, colleges, hospitals, and Methodist chapels, in the big cities. The old peasant life still continues almost unchanged in the districts not opened up by railways. 15. — Purchases ; Objects of Art. Travellers will find the greatest facilities for purchases of every de- scription in the large stores of Yokohama and Kobe. They will also find much to attract them in Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, and Nagasaki. The names of the best shops are given under each of these towns. Though now sometimes sold in large stores, Japanese objects of art are not produced in large workshops. In old days, when the test pieces were made, few masters employed as many as half a dozen workmen in addition to the members of their own family, and clicfs-cVceuvre often originated in humble dwellings, where perhaps a single artisan laboured in the most primitive style assisted by one or two children. At the present day, foreign influence is causing the spread of Western business methods, extensive manufactures, and splendidly decked out shop-windows, but as yet only in two or three of the larger towns. Even there, the best things must often be sought in narrow lanes. It was also formerly, and is still to some extent, characteristic of the Japanese tradesman and artisan- artist to hesitate to bring out his finest specimens at once. The rule is that several visits are necessary before he will display his choicest articles, and that even then a long time must be spent in bargaining. A few establishments of the more modern sort have fixed prices. This remark also applies to the Kivankoba, or bazaars. Japan is now almost denuded of old curios. Some have found their way into the museums of the country, while priceless collections have crossed the sea to Europe and America. But many of the productions of the present day are eminently beautiful, more especially the embroid- eries and the cloisonne. It is not possible within the limits of a travelling Handbook to enter into a disquisition on Japanese art — its origin, its characteristics, and the great names that adorn its history. A whole library on this subject has come into existence within the last fifteen years, and the views of connoisseurs differ widely even on points of prime importance. We must content ourselves with mentioning the names of certain art- forms unknown in Europe, and for most of which no appropriate English equivalents exist. The objects embodying these art-forms will constantly come under the traveller's notice if he frequents the curio stores. Such are : — The Inro, a medicine-box in segments, generally made of lacquer. The segments are held together by means of a cord, to one extremity of which a Netsuke is often attached. The Kakemono or hanging scroll, generally painted, sometimes em- broidered. The Koto, or incense-burner, generally in bronze or porcelain. The Makimono, or scroll, not meant to be hung up. It is used chiefly for manuscripts which are often beautifully illustrated. The Netsuke, originally a kind of button for the medicine box, pipe- case, or tobacco-pouch, carved out of wood or ivory. These little article^ have since developed into gems of glyptic art. 1-1 Introduction : — Shipment of Goods. Shooting. The Okimono, a general name for various small ornaments having no definite use, but intended to be placed in an alcove or on a cabinet. We may also mention various gear appertaining to the Japanese sword and often cunningly wrought in metals and alloys, of which latter the best known are Shibu-ichi and Shakudo, both formed of a basis of copper with varying admixtures of silver and gold. Specially note- worthy among these articles are the Tsuba, or guard, and the Menuki, small ornaments fixed one on each side of the hilt, and held in place by the silk cord which binds together the various parts of the handle. 16. — Shipment of Goods. A reference to the local Directories (or Hong Lists, as they are also called) will furnish the names of those firms in Yokohama and Kobe which make a business of shipping travellers' purchases to Europe, America, and elsewhere. As a rule, too, the foreign firms which deal in curios will undertake to forward anything to destination. Remember, when sending a box for shipment to a shipping firm, to nail it down but slightly, as it will be opened and examined at the Custom-House. The shipping firm should be furnished with a detailed list of the contents and their value, and be requested to see to the box being secured in a more solid manner after examination. 17. — Shooting. The mountainous districts of Japan, especially the Northern portion of the Main Island, shelter plenty of deer and boar, while in Yezo many bears still remain. Dnck of various kinds, the green pheasant, quail, woodcock, snipe, and hares, are to be found in the plains and on the lower ranges of hills bordering the flat country, while on somewhat higher ground the copper pheasant has its abode in the thickest cover. Hybrids between the green pheasant and an imported Chinese species are also sometimes met with. The gorgeous golden pheasant is extremely rare. Japan, with its rich plains and hills giving ample shelter to game, should naturally be a good sporting country. It would be still better, if the law protecting birds and animals during the breeding season were consistently enforced. Be this as it may, the foreign sportsman labours under heavy restrictions. The license which he has to obtain at a cost of $10 yearly, only entitles him to shoot whthin a radius of 10 ri (2ir\ miles) from the Treaty Ports, and within an irregular boundary of less area round Tokyo. But the game having been almost exterminated throughout thus area, the majority of resident sportsmen have abandoned the field. In the event of existing conditions being replaced by others which will allow foreigners to travel and shoot all over Japan, there will be excellent sport for one provided with good dogs and not afraid of hard walking. Meanwhile, a gun-case is a useless piece of baggage to the foreign visitor. The shooting season begins on the 15th October, and ends on the 14th March. Shooting licenses may be obtained at the Treaty Ports from the Prefecture (Kenchb). Applications by residents in Tokyo for shooting licenses must in the first instance be made by letter to the Police Bureau (Kcislii-cho), stating the full name, age, and residence of the applicant, who must afterwards take delivery in person of the license at the Chief Police Office, on being informed that it has been issued. Fishing. 15 The applicant has to enter into a written engagement to observe certain regulations, the violation of which involves the forfeiture of the license and the payment of a fine of §10 more. Shooting beyond Treaty Limits is strictly prohibited. 18. — Fishing. Locality. Fly-fishing may be said to be confined to that portion of the East Coast of Japan, North of Tokyo, where the water is suffi- ciently cold for salmon and trout. In Yezo, the river Yurap on the East Coast, and the Shiribetsu on the West Coast are recom- mended. Both are in season about June. In former years good trout fishing was obtainable near Sapporo in the river Toyohira ; but owing to the refuse from the flax-mills being allowed to discharge into the stream, only few fish now run past it. Most of the other rivers of Yezo and of the Northern provinces of the Main Island contain trout. The lakes of Yezo also abound in ao-masu and ami-masu, the former a pink, the latter a white-fleshed fish. These take the fly greedily, and are caught up to 2 lbs. in weight. Near Fukuoka in the province of Rikuoku is a good stretch of water, which would probably be best worked by staying at ichinohe. Further South, near Furusawa and close to the railway, is a fishing river called the Nagagawa, and in the North-West of the Main Island the rivers Iwaki and Noshiro are believed to be worth a visit. Trout are also found in Lakes Biwa and Chuzenji. Fly-fishers may hope for sport during June, July, and the early part of August. Fish. There are two classes of sporting fish, — the shake, or salmon as known in Europe, and the masu (Salmo japonicus). The shake is a full-sized salmon, and ascends the rivers in great quantities during autumn and early winter. All the Northern rivers hold these fish, which in Yezo are so plentiful that they fall an easy prey to crows and bears. Many must weigh as much as 30 lbs. when caught ; but they afford no sport to the angler, since, like salmon in other Pacific waters, they neither rise to a fly nor run to a spinning bait. At New Year, the shops in Tokyo are full of smoked shake that have been sent down from the North. Of the masu there are several varieties ; but all are of the trout or salmon-trout description, and all are sporting fish. The true masu run up the rivers from May to August, the time depending on the temperature of the water. These fish are in the best condition at a temperature of from 55° to 65 3 . They are not taken below 50°. An 8 lb. fish is a large one, the usual size being 5 lbs. or 6 lbs. Tackle. Ordinary salmon tackle may be used, with flies of medium salmon size and plenty of bright colour, especially orange and yellow. The fly is but rarely taken on the surface, and should therefore be well drowned. A rod of about 16 ft. is the most convenient, as the fish are strong and the pools often large. Wading trousers are useful. Spinning with a spoon-bait or a phantom minnow is often successful. In Lake Chuzenji, the fish are caught during the summer months by trolling from a boat with 60 or 70 yards of line heavily leaded. The bait used is a kind of Colorado spoon, and can be obtained from Nakamura, at Kyobashi Ginza Itchome in Tokyo, where also Japanese lines can be had to supplement the angler's gear for this kind of fishing. Accommodation. Except in Yezo, fair accommodation can be had almost everywhere. In Yezo one must be prepared for rough quarters, and many districts there are quite uninhabited, so that a tent should form part of the sportsman's outfit if he is to be free in his movements. 16 Introduction : — Miscellaneous Hints. 19. — Miscellaneous Hints. Take plenty of flea-powder or camphor ; also, if going off the beaten tracks, take soap, candles, and carbolic acid — the latter to counteract the unpleasant odours that often disturb the comfort of guests in Japanese inns. Take towels, a pair of sheets, and a pillow, or at least a pillow-case to put on the extemporised pillow r which the tea-house people will arrange. Instead of loose sheets, some prefer to sew two sheets together to form a bag which is tied round the sleeper's neck. Entrust your passport to your guide or servant. This will obviate interruptions from police officers at inconvenient hours. If your servant seems honest and intelligent, entrust him with money for current expenses. This will save a world of petty bother and vexation as to change, bargaining, and such matters. If you have much money with you, entrust it to the host of each respectable hotel you stop at, and get his receipt for it. Start early, and do not insist on travelling after dark. You will thus most easily obtain good coolies or horses for the day's journey. By arriving at your destination before sunset, you will be likely to find the bath as yet unused, and will thus avoid the trouble and delay entailed by the necessity of having other water heated. You will also have a better choice of rooms. When planning your day's journey, allow an hour for each ri to be done on foot, which should be sufficient to cover stoppages and un- avoidable delays. Ten ri (24J miles) is considered by the Japanese a proper day's work. However inconvenient to yourself, never refuse the coolies' request to be allowed to stop for food, as they can do no w r ork on an empty stomach. The Japanese, whose granclc passion is bathing, use water at higher temperatures — 110°-120° Fahrenheit— than physicians in Europe consider healthful. No one, however, will be injured by taking baths of between 100° and 106° Fahrenheit, unless he has a weak heart or is liable to congestion. Owing to some unexplained peculiarity of the climate, hot baths are found by almost all Europeans in Japan to suit them better than cold. It is advisable to pour hot water over the head from time to time, and strong persons may advantageously end up with a cold douche. The hotter the bath, the greater the impunity with which one may afterwards expose oneself to the cold air. The reason why people at home have come to entertain the notion that hot baths give a chilly reaction, is that they do not take them hot enough, or do not immerse themselves up to the neck. The Japanese have the habit, to us disagreeable, of getting into the same bath, one after another, or even at the same time ; but it is a breach of etiquette to discolour the water by the use of soap. They soap themselves outside. The first guest to arrive at an inn has the prior right to the bath. Formerly, promiscuous bathing of the sexes was common ; but this is now forbidden by the police regulations. Massage is much practised in Japan, and is a capital restorative from fatigue after mountain climbing. The services of a blind sham- pooer {annua sail) may be obtained at almost every inn. Miscellaneous Hints. 17 Never enter a Japanese house with your boots on. The mats take the place of our chairs and sofas. What should we say to a man who trod on our chairs and sofas with his dirty boots ? It is next to impossible to get windows opened at night in Japanese inns. The reason is that it is considered unsafe to leave anything open on account of thieves, and there is a police regulation to enforce closing. In the event of trouble arising with regard to accommodation, the procuring of coolies, etc., always apply to the police, who are almost in- variably polite and serviceable. These officials — for officials they are, however small — must not be insulted by the offer of a tip. Take visiting cards with you. Japanese with whom you become acquainted will often want to exchange cards. Above all, be constantly polite and conciliatory in your demeanour towards the people. Whereas the lower classes at home are apt to resent suave manners, and to imagine that he who addresses them politely wishes to deceive them or get something out of them, every Japanese, however humble, expects courtesy, being himself courteous. His courtesy, however, differs from that of the West in not being specially directed towards ladies. Many travellers irritate the Japanese by talking and acting as if they thought Japan and her customs a sort of peep-show set up for foreigners to gape at. Others run counter to native custom, and nevertheless expect to get things at native prices. They cannot understand why a bill for several dollars should be presented to them for ten minutes' dancing, which perhaps after all has not amused them. The reason for the high charge is quite simple. Japanese do not send for dancing-girls without ordering a dinner at the same time. The dancing is an incident of the dinner, and it is in this dinner that the tea-house proprietor makes his profit. He does not care to have his house invaded at unusual hours by people who take nothing for the good of the house ; neither can the dancers get ready on the spur of the moment. Too many foreigners, we fear, give not only trouble and offence, but just cause for indignation by their disregard of propriety, especially in their behaviour towards Japanese women, whose engaging manners and naive ways they misinterpret. The subject is too delicate to be treated here. We may, however, be permitted to remark in passing that the waitresses at any respectable Japanese inn deserve the same respectful treatment that is accorded to girls in a similar position at home. Never show any impatience. You will only get stared at or laughed at behind your back, and matters will not move any the quicker in this land where an hour more or less is of no account. The word tadaima, which the dictionaries, in their simplicity, render by " immediately,'' ma}- mean any time between now and Christmas. Storming will not mend matters, when you find (to take one instance out of a hundred) that your jinrikisha coolies wish to stop for a meal just after you have started and have been calculating that you will arrive at such and such a place at such and such an hour. It is best to resign oneself at the beginning, once for all. While waiting patiently, you have an opportunity of study- ing Japanese life. Neither be moved to anger because you are asked personal questions by casual acquaintances. To ask such questions is the Japanese way of showing kindly interest. 18 Introduction : — Language. 20. — Language. The Japanese language, though extremely difficult to learn correctly, is easy to acquire a smattering of ; and even a smattering will add im- mensely to the pleasure of a tour in the country, by bringing the traveller into personal relations with the people, and by delivering him from the wearisome tutelage of guides and interpreters. Remember, in pronouncing Japanese, that the consonants are to be sounded approximately as in English, the vowels as in Spanish or Italian, that is to say : — a as in father i as in pin e as in pet o as in pony u as in full But i and u are sometimes almost inaudible, and are then marked 7 and u in the following vocabulary, thus arimasu, "there is;" wakari- maslnta, " I understand." In diphthongs each vowel retains its original force. Thus : — ai as in the English word "sky" gal as in the English word " cow" ei as in the English word " hay." There is scarcely any tonic acceut ; in other words, all the syllables are pronounced equally or nearly so. But particular care must be taken to distinguish long 5 and u from short o and u. The short vowels are pronounced in a very light, staccato manner. Thus O tori nasai means M Please take this ;" but tori nasai means "Please come (or go, lit. pass) in." G is hard as in "give," never soft as in "gin ; " but in Tokyo and Eastern Japan it sounds Hire ng when in the middle of a word, exactly as in the English words " singer," " springy " (not " sing-ger," " spring-gy"). 8 is always sharp as in "mouse." W is often omitted after Tc or g, as Jcashi, " cake," for kiuashi. Be very careful to pronounce double con- sonants really double, as in Italian ; thus, 7cite, " coming ; " but kittc, " a ticket," As in all other languages of the Tartar or Mongolian type, so in Japanese the adjective precedes its noun, and the genitive precedes the nominative. Prepositions follow their noun, and are therefore really "postpositions." The verb comes at the end of the sentence. There is no distinction between singular and plural, or between the different persons of the verb, and there are no genders. Consequently such phrases as Kimasliita ka? may equally well mean "Has he come?" " Has she come ? " or " Have they come ? " — for pronouns are very little used, the sense they would convey being generally left to be gathered from the context. Questions are asked by suffixing the particle ka, as in the instance just cited. There are no negative adverbs or pronouns, like our English " not," " never," " nothing," etc. ; but the tenses of Japanese verbs have negative forms. Though the conjugations are too complicated to be given here in detail, the following specimens of the most useful Language. 19 tenses, positive and negative, may be of practical utility. The beginner will probably find the Honorific forms the easier to remember. They are in constant use. Paradigm of Japanese Veebs. Present & Cer- tain Future Past. Probable Fut. Gerund. Neg. Pres. Neg. Past. Improb. Fut. I Plain. I Honorific. j Plain. ( Honorific. /Plain. I Honorific. (Plain, j Honorific. j Plain. ( Honorific. (Plain. ( Honorific. (Plain. (Honorific. ABU Arimasu Atta Arimasliita Ard or aru dard Arimasho Atte Arimasliite Nai Arimasen Nakatta Arimasen desliita Nakard or Arumai Arimasumai j There is or f will be. J- There was. [ There probably will [ be. [There being, having \ been. [ There is not or J will not be. !■ There was not. ) There probably will j not be. Present & Cer- tain Future, Past. Probable Fut. Gerund. Neg. Pres. Neg. Past. Improb. Fut. (Plain. I Honorific. (Plain. I Honorific. ( Plain. i Honorific. ( Plain, i Honorific. ( Plain. ( Honorific. / Plain. | Honorific. I Plain. (Honorific. IKU Ikimasu Itta Ikimaslftta Ikd or iku dard IJcimaslid Itte Ikimasliite Ikanai ITcimascn Ikanakatta IJcimasen desliita Ikumai I/cimasumai {I go or j will go. >I went. ( I shall probably I go- J Going, having i g° ne - ( I do not or \ shall not go. -I did not go I shall probably not go. Present & Cer- tain Future. Past. Probably Fut. Gerund. Neg. Pres. Neg. Past. Improb. Fut. J Plain. i Honorific. J Plain, i Honorific. /Plain. ( Honorific. /Plain. j Honorific. | Plain. i Honorific. /Plain, i Honorific. [ Plain. I Honorific. KURU Kimasu Kita Kimasliita Koyo or Jcitru dard Kimaslw Kite Kimashtte Konai Kimasen Konalcatta Kimasen desliita Kimai Kimasumai \ I come or \ will come. [-1 came. j I shall probably j come. [ Coming, having j come. j I do not or \ shall not come. !• I did not come. I shall probably not come. 20 Introduction : — Language. Present & Cer- tain Future. Past. Probable Fut, Gerund. Neg. Pres. Neg. Past. Improb. Fut. (Plain. (Honorific, j Plain. { Honorific. I Plain. ] Honorific. (Plain. { Honorific. j Plain. (Honorific. /Plain. I Honorific. j Plain. (Honorific. SURU Shimasu Shita Shimashtta Shi yd or sunt daro Shimasho Shite Shiviaslutc Shinai Sli imasen SliinaJcatta Shimasen dcsluta Sliimai Shimasiunai \ I do or \ shall do. 1 1 did. ) I shall probably 1 do. ( Doiug, having \ done. } I do not or \ shall not do. [■ I did not do. [ I shall probably not i do. Present & Cer tain Future. Past. Probably Fut. Gerund. Neg. Pres. Neg. Past. Improb. Fut. | Plain. \ Honorific. (Plain. | Honorific. (Plain. ( Honorific. (Plain. "( Honorific. ( Plain. I Honorific, i Plain. (Honorific. J Plain. \Honorific. [ I eat or \ shall eat. TABERU Tabemasu Tabeta Tabemashtta \ Tabeyo or taberu daro) I shall probably I late. Tabcmasho Tabde Tabemasliite Tabenai Tabemasen TabcnaJcatta Tabemasen deshita Tabemai Tabemasumai f eat. [ Eating, having \ eaten. ) I do not or \ shall not eat. I did not eat. \ \ I shall probably not \ eat. I Adjectives are conjugated somewhat after the model of a-u " to be,' 1 Bsyoroshii or yoi, "it is good;" yoJcatta, "it was, or would have been good ; " yoJcarb, " it will probably be good ; " yokunai, " it is not good ; " yokvte, " being good ;" yoJcu naJcute , " not being good.'' Similarly ivarui, "is bad;" waru/catta, "was bad;" taJcai "is dear;" takakunai, "not dear ; " mtizuhashi% " is difficult ; " muzukashikute, " being difficult," etc. The Japanese, like other nations of the Far-East, are much addicted to the use of polite forms of speech. When two equivalents for the same English phrase are given in our list of Useful Sentences, that marked " less polite " should be used only to coolies and others of the lowest class. It will be noticed in numerous examples that our English impera- tives are almost always softened down to a polite periphrasis with the word kudasai, " please give," " condescend to .... " Sometimes the final Jciidasai is omitted for brevity's sake, as To wo shimete kudasai (lit. "Door shutting condescend"), or more familiarly To wo shimete, " Shut the door." The following Vocabulary of words connected with food and travel, and the Sentences that follow, will be found useful. The interlinear literal translations serve to show which word corresponds to which, — a thing otherwise hopelessly perplexing to the beginner, on account .of the wide gulf that separates Japanese from English idiom. Those ambitious language. 21 of learning more of the language can provide themselves with Chamber- lain's Handbook of Colloquial Japanese. Satow and Ishibashi's English- Japanese Pocket Dictionary is excellent. Hepburn's Pocket Dictionary is to be recommended for Japanese-English. Aerated water Bag Baggage Bar-room Bath Bath-room Beans Bed Bed-clothes Bed-room Bedstead Beef Beer Bell Billiard-room Bill of fare Blanket Boat Boatman Boots Bottle Box Brazier Bread Breakfast- Bridge Cabin Cake Candle Candlestick Carriage Charcoal Chicken Chopsticks Cigar Cigarette Coachman Coal Coffee Consulate Coolie Cucumber •Curio -shop Dining-room Dinner (late) Disinfectant Door Downstairs Vocabulary. teppo-mizu Driver gyosha fukuro Duck (tame) ahiru nimotsU Duck (wild) kamo sal: aba Eels unagi fi(?'0, o yu E<*tf tamago furoba Egg-plant nasu mame Express train kyuko-rcssha toko Fan- ennichi yogi, fyton Fan (that shuts] ogi> scnsic nema, nebeya Ean (not shut- nedai ting) uclxiv:a gyu-niku, ushi Feast gochiso biiric Ferry funa-icatashi yobi-gane Festival maisuri tama-tsuki-ba Fire hi kondate Fish sakana furanken, ketto Flea nvmi fiine Food tabe-mono sendo Food (European ) yo-shoku kutsu Fork niku-sashi tokkuri, bin Fowl tori liako Fruit mizu-gwashi hibachi Grapes budo pan Guide annai-sha asa-han Hill yania hashi Horse iima heya Hotel yadoya, hoteru kicashi House ie, jinka rbsoku Ice kbri teshoku Inn yadoya basha Island shima sumi Kitchen dai-dokoro niwa-tori, tori Knife hoc] to liashi Lake mizu-umi, kosui maki-tabako Lamp rampu kami-maki Lantern chochin gyosha Lemon yuzu sckitan Lemonade ramune kohi, kahe Light akari rydji-kwan Luggage nimotsu ninsoku Lunch hiru-gozen ki-nri Mat tat ami dbgu-ya Match tsukcgi, matchi shoku-db Matting goza yu-shoku Meat niku shuki-domc Melon (musk-) makmca~uri to Melon (water-) snikwa shita Milk chichi 22 Introduction : — Language, Money Mosquito Mosquito-net Mountain Mustard Napkin Oil Oil-paper Omnibus Onions Orange Overcoat Oyster Parcel Parcel post Pass (between mountains) Passport Path Peach Pear Peas Pepper Persimmon Pheasant Plum Policeman Police-station Portmanteau Post-office Potatoes Potatoes (sweet) Quail Railway Railway train Rice (boiled) River Road Road (uew) Road (old) Room Rug Salmon Salmon-trout Salt Sardines Screen Sea kane, kinsu ka Jcaya yama karashi kuchi-fvki abura abnra-kami nori-ai-basha negi mikan gwaitdy uwagi kaJci tsutsumi-mono ko-zutsumi yubin toge (ryoko) merijo michi memo nashi endo-mame kosho JcaJci Jciji sumomo, time junsa Jcoban Jcaban yubin-kyoku imo Satsuma-imo uzura tetsudo Jcisha meshi, gozen ka wa michi shindo kyudo hey a, zashiki ketto shake masu sJiiico iwashi byobu umi Servant Ship Sni^je Soap Soup Soy Spoon Stamp (postage Station Steamer Stick Strawberry Street Sugar Supper Tea Tea-house Telegram Telegraph Office Telephone Temple (Bud- dhist) Temple (Shinto) Ticket Ticket (return) Tomato Toothpick Towel Town Train Train (first) Train (last) Train (express) Tramway Trout Tunnel Turnip Umbrella Upstairs Vegetables Vinegar Waiter ! Waitress ! Water (cold) Water (hot) Water-closet Window Wine meshi-tsukae fune shigi shabon soppiL, tsuyu shoyu saji ■) yubin-gitte, inshi station, teishaba jokisen tsue icJiigo machi, tori said yu -meshi cha, o cha chaya dempo denshin-kyoJcu demc a tcra yashiro, jinja kippu ohen-gippu alca-nasu koydji te-nugui machi Jcisha ichiban-gislia shimai-gisha JcyiiJco-ressha tetsudo-basha ai, yamame ana, tonneru Jcabu Jcasa, ledmori nikai yasai su boy! nesan I mizu yu, oyu benjd, chozuba ma do budoshu I You He She It watakushi anata, omae ano Into, ano otoko ano Into, ano onna scrre, are We You (plur.J They This That wa ta k us hi-domo anata-gata ano hlto-tachi kore sore, are Language. 23 1 — hitotsu or ichi 2 - futatsu „ ni 3 —\ mitsu ,, S&71 4 m yotsu „ shi 5 m itsutsu »s £0 6 y> mutsu ,, ?'0^W 7 -b nanatsu ,, shichi 8 A y at sic ,, hachi 9 % kokonotsu ,, ku 10 + to » /« 11 +- ju-ichi 12 +n ju-ni 13 +H ju-san 14 +ra ju-shi 15 +5: ju-go No 1 ichi-ban No . 2 ni-ban No 3 sam-ban No . 4 yo-ban No . 5 go-ban 16 +* ju-roku 17 +-b ju-shzchi 18 +A ju-hachi 19 -Wl ju-ku 20 ~+ ni-ju 21 r+- ni-ju-ichi 22 zi+n ni-ju-ni 30 H+ san-ju 40 H4- shi-ju 50 5+ go-ju 60 *+ roku-ju 70 *+ shichi-ju 80 A+ hachi- ju 90 A+ kit-jii 100 S hyaJcu 1 c >'clock ichi-ji 2 ?> ni-ji 3 )> san-ji 4 ,, yo-ji 5 » go-ji $2 — m-6?& 1st class— -joto 2n< 1 class — chiito 3rd . class — kato $1 — ichi-en 10 cents— jis-sen 20 cents — ni-jis-sen 30 cents — san-jis-sen Many of onr words have no Japanese equivalents, because the things for which they stand are not commonly known in Japan. Such are, for instance, jam, lamb, tin-opener. The following are examples of Japanese words for which there are no exact English equivalents : Bento, lunch carried with one. Bento-bako, a box to hold such lunch. Betto, a running groom. Kago, a kind of basket or litter in which travellers are carried. Yanagi-gori, a useful sort of trunk made of wicker-work. Kyahan, a kind of gaiters. How do you do ? Good morning. It is fine weather to-day. Useful Sentences. I. MISCELLANEOUS. Konnichi iva ! To-day as for O hayo. Honourably early Konnichi wa, To-day as for, gozaimasii. yoi tenki de good weather by 24 Introduction: — Language. It is hot to-day. It is cold to-day. (The above weather remarks Good evening. Good night. Goodbye. Thank you. Pray don't mention it. That is so (^English "yes"). ,, (less polite). Is that so ? That is not so. Isn't that so ? Is that all right ? (polite) „ (less polite). That is all right. Is it this ? It is this. It isn't this. Do you understand ? I understand. I don't understand. Please come here. Come in. Please sit down. Please come again. Please excuse me. Allow me to congratulate you. That is plenty. No, thank you. atsu gozaimasu. Honourably hot augustly-is samu gozaimasu. almost amount to greetings.) Komban wa ! This evening as for yasumi nasai. Honourably resting deign Sayonara. Arigato. Do itasliimasliite ! How having done Sayo de gozaimasu. So by is So desu, or So da. So is So is So desu ka? So ja oiai. So by isn't So ja nai ka ? Yoroshu gozaimasu Tea ? Good is ? Yoroshii Tea ? Yoroshu gozaimasu ; or Yoroshii. Kore desu Tea ? This is ? Kore desu. Kore ja nai. This by is n't VfaJcarimasliita Jca ? Have understood ? WaTcarimasliita. Wakarimasen. Oide nasai. Honourable exit deign O hairi nasai. Honourable entering deign Dozo o haTce nasai. Please honourably to place deign Mat a irasshai. Again come (honorific verb) Gomcn nasai. August excuse deign O medeto gozaimasu. Honourably congratulatory is Mo taJcusan. Already plenty Language. 25 What shall we do ? What is it ? What is this ? Please show me. Please let ine know. Just let me look. Please go and ask. You had better go and ask. Just go and see. Is that all right ? Don't do that. That won't do. Why do you do such things ? Please take care. Where is it ? Who is it ? When is it ? Where is it from ? What o'clock is it? Is this all ? I don't kuow. He says he doesn't know. Wait a little. Go quickly. That is no good, or That won't do. Which is yours ? Do slibnasho % How shall do Nan desu ka? What is ? Kore wa t nan desu ka ? This as for, what is ? Misete kudasai. Showing condescend S h iras kite k udasai. Informing condescend Cliotto haiken Jubt respectful glance Kiite kudasai. Asking condescend Kiite kuru ga ii. Heaiing to-come (nom.) good Cliotto mite kite kudasai. Just, looking coming condescend Sore de yoroshii ka ? That by, good ? So slnclia ikenai. So as for doing, can't go Sere ja ikemasen. That by, cant't go Naze sonna koto sum leal Why such things do ? Ki ico tsukete kudasai. Spirit (accus.) fixing condescend Doko desu Tea 1 Where is ? Dare desu Tea Itsu desu ka ? Doko Tear a desu ka ? Nan-doki desu ka? What-hour is ? Kore dake desu ka ? This only is ? Shirimasen (Bhiranai less polite). Shirimasen to iimasu. Knows-not that says Siikoshi mate. Little wait Hayaku! hayaku! Quickly quickly Sore wa } dame desu. That as for, useless is Dochi ga anata no desu kal Which (nom.) you of is ? 26 Introduction : — Language. This is mine. Who is that ? What is his name ? That is enough. Oh, what a bother ! Don't make such a row ! Don't bother so ! What a horrid smell 1 Please leave off. Don't do that. It can't be helped. As quickly as possible. As early as possible. Is anything the matter ? Which is the best ? How much for one ? How much per ri (2J miles) ? How much per head ? What is the charge per ri ? I don't want that. This is the one I want. It doesn't matter. Don't trouble about it. What a pity ! I don't want to go. Kore ga watakushi no desu. of is. dare desu lea ? who is no na wa, of name as for, ka? nan what This (nom.) Ano hito iva, That person as for, Ano liito That person to iimasu that say ? Mo yoroshii. Already good Eomatta mon' da, ne ! Troubled thing is isn't-it. Yakamashii I Noisy. TJrusai ! urusai ! Troublesome troublesome. Kusai ! Jciisai ! Smelly smelly. yoshi nasai. Honourably abstaining deign. SMkata ga nai. Doing manner (nom.) isn't, NarutaJce Isolde. As... as possible hurrying. NarutaJce liayaJc it . As... as possible quickly. Do lea shimasliita ka ? Somehow has done ? Dochi ga yoroshii ? Which (nom.) good. HUotsu i/cura ? One how much Ichi-ri iJcura ? One ri how much Hitori-mae ikura I One person front how much Ichi-ri iJcura no tuari desu One-ri how much of proportion is ka? ? Are That Kono This irimasen. enters not. wa, as for, lib ga irimasu side (nora.) enters Kamaimasen. Matters not koto fact Oshii Regrettable desu, ne! isn't-it. Ikitaku Wanting to go nai. am not. Language. 27 I don't want to eat. I have none at all. Has nobody come ? Which is the best inn ? TabetaJcu nai. Wanting to eat am not Suhoshi mo nai. Little even isn't Dare mo Jconai ha ? Anybody conies not ? II. AT AN INN. Have you any rooms ? Have you any beer ? This room will do. Can you give us European food ? I suppose you haven't bedsteads, have you ? I don't want a bedstead. Are there any mosquitoes here ? It is dreadfully hot. Please open the paper slides. Please shut the window. Bring some hot water. Bring some cold water. Where is the W. C. ? Please show me the way. Please bring a candle. Yado tea, nani-ya Hotel as for, what house yoroshii lea ? good ? Zasliihi wa, arimasu ha? Room as for, is ? Biiru wa, arimasu Tea ? Kono zasliihi de yoroshii. This room by, good Yo-shohtc ga dehimasu Tea ? Sea-food (nom.) eventuates ? ga (nom.) Nedai wa, Bedstead as for, Neda i tea Eedstead as for, Kono hen anmasumai, ne ? probably is not, eh? irwuisen. enters not wa, ha Is the bath ready ? This neighbourhood as for, mosquito ga imasii ha ? (nom.) dwells ? Atsuhute shiyd ga nai. Hot being way of doing (nom,) isn't. Shdji ico ahcte hudasai. Paper slide (accus.) opening condescend. Mado wo shimete hudasai. Window (accus.) shutting condescend O yu wo motte Honourable hot water (accus.) bearing hoi. come Mizu motte hoi. Cold water bearing come Benjd w a, dochira desu ? W. C. as for, where is Cliotto annai shite hndasai. Just guide doing condescend Bosohu wo, motte hite Candle (accus.) carrying coming hudasai. condescend Furo ga dehimasliita ha ? Bath (nom.) has eventuated ? 28 Introduction : — Language. It is not ready yet. Isn't it ready yet ? When will it be ready ? Please let me know when it is ready. All right, Sir. Please buy me Hive 10 cent post- age-stamps. And then please take these things away. Have the things come from the wash ? I am thirsty. Give me a glass of water. Please give me some more. I am hungry. I want something to eat. Please get it ready quickly. Anything will do. And then please lay down the bedding. Please let me have more quilts. There is a hole in the mosquito- net. (Said only Mada dekimasen. Still eventuates not Mada dekimasen Tea ? Itsu dekimasu ka? "When eventuates ? Dekimashitara y shiraslute When shall have eventuated informing Jcudasai. condescend Kasliikomarimashita. Have been reverential to superiors). Jis-sen no yubin-gitte go-mai Ten cents of postage-stamp five pieces Icatte kite kusadai. buying coming condescend Sore kara, kore wo sagete That from, this (accus..) lowering kudasai. condescend Sentaku-mono ga dehita Wash-things (nom.) have eventuated ka? ? Nodo Throat Mizu Water Motto More ga kaivakimasJiita. (nom.) has dried too ippai. (accus.) one-full Jcudasai. condescend naJca Honourable inside sukimashtta. has become empty ga (nom.) Nani Tea Something tabetai. want to eat O sliitaku wo hayaku Honorable preparations (accus.) quickly doka. please Nan de mo yorosliii. What by even good Sore Jcara, toko shiite Jcudasai. That from, bed spreading condescend Futon wo, motto shiite Quilt (accus.) more spreading Jcudasai. condescend Kay a ni t ana ga arimasu. Mosquito-net in, hole (nom.) is Language. 29 I want to get shaved. Is there a barber here ? There is. Then send for him. I feel unwell. Is there a doctor here ? Please call my " boy." Please hurry him up. Please lend a hand here. Please post these (letters). Please light the lights. I start at 7 o'clock to-morrow morning. As I am starting early to-morrow, please wake me early. I want to be called at J past 5. I am going by the first train in the morning. At what o'clock does the first train start ? Please engage two coolies. Hige wo sotte moraitai Beard (accus.) shaving want to receive ga, TcoTco ni tokoya ga whereas, here in barber (noni.) arimasu ka % is ? Gozaimasu (more polite than Ari- masu). Sonnarcij yonde Tcoi. If so, calling come Kagen ga warui. Feelings (nom.) had KoJco ni isha ga orimasu Here in doctor (nom.) dwells boy wo yonde hoy (accus.) calling WaiaTcuslii no I of Tcudasai. condescend Saisoku sliite Tcudasai. Urgency doing condescend Te ico Tcaslntc Tcudasai. Hand (accus.) lending condescend. Kono yubin wo daslutc This post (accus.) putting forth Tcudasai. condescend Al-ari wo tsukeie Tcudasai. Light (accus.) rising condescend Myoasa sJuchi-ji ni To-morrow morning seven-hours at, shuttatsu shiniasu. departure do Myd-asa hayaku iatsu To-morrow morning early start Jcara, hayaku okoshite Jcuda- because, early rousing con- sai. descend Go-ji-han ni olcoshlte morai- Five-hours-half at, rousing want-to- tai obtain Ichi-ban-gisha de ihimo.su. One-number-train by, go Ichi-ban-gisha wa nan-ji desu ? One-numher-train as for, what-hour is. Ninsoku futari tanonde Coolie two people requesting Tcudasai. condescend 30 Please bring the bill. Introduction : — Language. Please to accept this small sum as tea-money. Many thanks for the trouble you have taken. Is the luggage ready ? Please order the jinrikishas. We will start as soon as everything is ready. We must not be late. Doha, kanjo-gaki loo (motte Please bill- writing (accus.) carrying kite kudasai) . coming condescend Kore iv a, sukoshi desu ga, — This as for, little is although, — o chadai desu. honourable tea-price is Oki-ni o sewa ni Greatly honourable help to narimashita. have become Nimotsu no shitaku Luggage of preparation yoroshii ka ? good ? wa, as for, Wasure-mono Forgotten-things wa nai ka ? as for, aren't ? Kuruma no shitaku ico, Jinrikisha of preparation (accus.) shite kudasai. doing condescend Sliitaku shidai, de-kakemasho. Preparation according, will go forth. Osoku naru to ikenai. Late become if, can't go III. SHOPPING. I think I'll go out shopping. How much is it ? That is too dear. You must go down a little in price. Haven't you any a little cheaper ? How much does it all come to ? Have you change for a dollar ? Please send them to the hotel. Kai-mono ni de-lakemasho. Purchases to will probably go out Ikura desu? How much is Sore voa takai. That as for, dear Sukoshi o make nasai. Little honourably cheapening deign Mo chitto yasui no ga Still little cheap ones (nom.) nai ka ? aren't ? Mina de, ikura ni narimasu All by how much to becomes ka? ? Ichi-en no tsuri wa, One-dollar of change as for ariniasu ka ? is ? Yado ye todokete kudasai. Hotel to forwarding condescend. Language. 31 IV. ON THE ROAD. Which is the way to Kiga? Please tell me the way. Go straight on. Where is the telegraph office ? Where is the ticket-office ? (Give me) one 1st class ticket to Nikko. (Please book) this luggage for Nikko. How many hours does it take to get to Naeoya ? I mean to spend the night at Nag ova. When does the train for Nikko start ? Where do we change trains ? I will rest a little. What is the name of that moun- tain ? What is this place called ? Kiga ye Kiga to dochira de which by Michi wo Road (accus.) iku goes michi road wa, as for, gozaimasu < oshiete kudasai. teaching condescend Massugu oide nasai. Straight honourable exit deign Den shin-Icy oku wa, dochira, Telegraph office as for, where desu ha? is ? Kippu Ticket do~ko where wo uru tokoro (accus.) sell place desu lea ? is ? wa, as for, Nikko Xikko made, joto till, superior class ichi- one- mai. piece Kore dake no nimotsu wo, This only of luggage (accus.) Nikko made. Xikko till Nagoya maole, nan-jUkan Nagoya till, what-hour-space kakarimasu ? lasts ? Na goya de, ippahu Xagoya at, one-night's lodging sum tswmori desu. do intention is Nikho-yuki no hi ha wa, Nikko going of train as for, nan-doki ni demasu ha? what hour at issues ? Doko de nori-haemasu Where at ride-change ha? ? yasumimasho. will probably rest Siikoshi Little Ano yama wa, That mountain as for, iimasu lea? say ? Koko wa, nan Here as f • >r, what tokoro desu ka? place is ? nan what to that to that in say 32 Introduction: — The Shinto Religion. Is this a Buddhist or a Shinto Kore wa, tera desu temple ? Tnis as for » Buddli. temple is ha ? yashiro desit ka ? ? Sh. temple is ? How far is it from here to the next Koko kara, saki no sliuku town ? Here from, front of post-town made, ri-su wa dono till, mile-number as for, what kurai d.esu ? about is I will lie down a bit, as I feel Fune m yoimasluta kara. seasick. Ship in have-got-tipsy because, chotto nemasho. little will-lie 21. — The Shinto Beligion. The Japanese have two religions, Shinto and Buddhism — the former indigenous, the latter imported from India via China and Korea ; but it must not be supposed that the nation is therefore divided into two distinct sections, each professing to observe one of these exclusively. On the contrary, the two are so thoroughly interfused in practice, that the number of pure Shintoists and pure Buddhists must be extremely small. The only exception is afforded by the province of Satsuma, from which the Buddhist priesthood has been excluded ever since some of their number betrayed the local chieftain into the hands of Hideyoshi. Every Japa- nese from his birth is placed by his parents under the protection of some Shinto deity, whose foster-child he becomes, while the funeral rites are conducted, with few exceptions, according to the ceremonial of the Buddhist sect to which his family belongs. It is only in recent years that burial according to the ancient ritual of the Shintoists has been revived, after almost total disuse during some twelve centuries. This apparently anomalous condition of things is to be explained by the fact that the Shinto religion demands little more of its adherents than a visit- to the local temple on the occasion of the annual festival, and does not profess to teach any theory of the destiny of man, or of moral duty, thus leaving the greater part of the field free to the priests of Buddha, with their apparatus of theological dogma aided by splendid rites and gorgeous decorations. Multitudinous as are its own deities, Buddhism found no difficulty in receiving those of the indigenous belief into its pantheon, this catholicity having been previously displayed with regard to Hindoo deities and other mythological beings. In most cases it was pretended that the native Shinto gods (Kami) were merely avatars of some Buddhist deity (Hotokc) ; and thus it was possible for those who became converts to the foreign doctrine to continue to believe in and offer up prayers to their ancient gods as before. Shinto is a compound of nature-worship and ancestor-worship. It has gods and goddesses of the wind, the ocean, fire, food, and pesti- lence, of mountains and rivers, of certain special mountains, certain rivers, certain trees, certain temples, — eight hundred myriads of deities in all. Chief among these is Ama-terasu, the radiant Goddess of the Sun, born from the left eye of Izanagi, the Creator of Japan, while from his right eye was produced the God of the Moon, and from his nose the violent God Susa-no-o, who subjected his sister to various indignities and was chastised accordingly. The Sun-Goddess was the , - .- 3**#~~^i.~r.JU-&B O KUS w 3L~ IKMl SHINTO TEMPLE OF IZUMO The Shinto Religion. 33 ancestress of trie line of heaven-descended Mikados, who have reigned in unbroken succession from the beginning of the world, and are themselves gods upon earth. Hence the Sun-Goddess is honoured above all the rest, her shrine at Ise being the Mecca of Japan. Other shrines hold other gods, the deified ghosts of princes and heroes of eld, some commanding a wide popularity, others known only to narrow local fame, most of them tended by hereditary families of priests believed to be lineal descendants either of the god himself or of his chief servant. From time to time new names are added to the pantheon. The present reign has witnessed several instances of such apotheosis. Shinto has scarcely any regular services in which the people take part, and its priests (kannushi) are not distinguishable by their appearance from ordinary laymen. Only when engaged in offering the morning and evening sacrifices do they wear a peculiar dress, which consists of a long loose gown with wide sleeves, fastened at the waist with a girdle, and sometimes a black cap bound round the head with a broad white fillet. The priests are not bound by any vows of celibacy, and are free to adopt another career whenever they choose. At some temples young girls fill the office of priestesses ; but their duties do not extend beyond the performance of the pantomimic dances known as Icagztra, and assistance in the presentation of the daily offerings. They likewise are under no vows, and marry as a matter of course. The services consist in the presentation of offerings of rice, fish, fruits, vegetables, the flesh of game, animals, and rice-beer, and in the recital of certain formal address- es, partly laudatory and partly in the nature of petitions. The style of composition employed is that of a very remote period, and would not be comprehended by the common people, even if the latter were in the habit of taking any part in the ritual. With moral teaching Shinto does not profess to concern itself. " Follow your natural impulses, and obey the Mikado's decrees:" — such is the sum of its theory of human duty. The sermon forms no part of its institutions, nor are the rewards and punish- ments of a future life used as incentives to right conduct. The continued existence of the dead is believed in, but whether it is a condition of joy or pain is nowhere revealed. Shinto is a Chinese word, meaning the " Way of the Gods," and was first adopted after the introduction of Buddhism to distinguish the native beliefs and practices from those of the Indian religion. The architecture of Shinto temples is extremely simple, and the mate- rial used is plain white wood with a thatch of chamaecyparisbark. The annexed plan of the Great Temple of Izumo (Izumo no O-yashiro), taken from a native drawing sold to pilgrims, and printed on Japanese paper, will serve to exemplify this style of architecture. Few Shinto temples, however, are quite so elaborate as this, the second holiest in the Empire. W T e find then : — 1. The Main Shrine (honsha or honden), which is divided into two chambers. The rear chamber contains the emblem of the god {mi tama- shiro) — a mirror, a sword, a curious stone, or some other object — and is always kept closed, while in the antechamber stands a wand from which depend strips of white paper (goliei) intended to represent the cloth offerings of ancient times. The mirror which is seen in front of not a few temples was borrowed from the Shingon sect of Buddhists, and has nothing to do with the Shinto Sun-Goddess, as is often supposed. 2. An Oratory (haiclcn) in front of the main building, with which it is sometimes, but not in the case of the Izumo temple, connected by 34 Introduction: — Ryobu Shinto. 3. A Corridor or Gallery (ai-no-ma). A gong often hangs over the entrance of the Oratory, for the worshipper to attract the attention of the god, and beneath stands a large box to receive contributions. 4. A Cistern (mi tarashi), at which to wash the hands before prayer. 5. A low Wall, or rather Fence (tama-gahi, lit. jewel hedge), en- closing the chief temple buildings. 6. A second Enclosing Fence, often made of boards and therefore termed ita-gaki. 7. A peculiar Gateway (torii) at the entrance to the grounds. Some- times there are several of these gateways. Their origin and signification are alike unknown. 8. A Temple Office (shamusho), where the business of the temple is transacted, and where some of the priests often reside. 9. Secondary Shrines (sessha or massha) scattered about the grounds, and dedicated not to the deity worshipped at the main shrine, but to other members of the crowded pantheon. 10. A Library (bunko). This item is generally absent. 11. A Treasure-house (liozo). 12. One or more Places for Offerings (shinscnjo). 13. A Gallery (hwairo). 14. A Dancing-stage (bugaku-dai) . A more usual form of this is the kagura-dd, or stage for the performance of the kagura, an ancient symbolic dance. 15. A Stable in which is kept the Sacred Horse (jimme), usually an albino. 16. An Assembly Hall. This is generally missing. 17. Gates. Frequently there is some object of minor sanctity, such as a holy well or stone, the image of the bull on which the god Tenjin rode, etc. The curiously projecting ends of the rafters on the roof of the honsJia are termed chigi. The cigar-shaped logs a^re termed Jcatsaogi. Both these ornaments are derived from the architecture of the primitive Japanese hut, the katsuogi having anciently served to keep in place the two trunks forming the ridge of the roof. The temple grounds are usually surrounded by a grove of trees, the most common among which is the cryptomeria, a useful timber tree. These plantations were originally intended to supply materials for the repair or re-erection of the buildings ; but in many cases their great antiquity causes a sacred character to be attributed to the older trees, which are surrounded by a fillet of straw rope, as if to show that they are tenanted by a divine spirit. The two figures with bows and arrows, seated in niches right and left of the gate to keep guard over the approach to the temple, are called Zuijin, or " attendants," more popularly Ya-daijin, or " ministers with arrows." The stone figures of dogs — or lions, as some suppose them to be — which are often found in temple grounds, are called Ama-inu and Koma-inu, lit. " the Heavenly Dog " and " the Korean Dog." They are credited with the power of driving off demons. 22. — Ryobu Shinto. The doctrines of metempsychosis and universal perfectibility taught by Buddhism naturally made it tolerant of other creeds, and willing to afford hospitality to their gods in its own pantheon. Hence the early Buddhist teachers of the Japanese nation were led to regard the aboriginal Shinto i Japanese Buddhism. 35 gods and goddesses as incarnations or avatars — trie Japanese term is gongen, signifying literally " temporary manifestations " — of some of the many myriads of Buddhas. Thus was formed a mixed system, called Ryobu Shinto or Shin-Butsu Konko which lasted throughout the Middle Ages. For a thousand years the service of most of the Shinto temples, except Ise and Izumo, was performed by Buddhist priests, and the temple architecture was deeply affected by Buddhist (that is, Indian) principles, — witness the elaborate carvings, the form of the two-storied sammon, or outer gate, and even the pagoda itself, which, though essentially Buddhis- tic, was found in the most popular Shinto shrines. In several cases, for instance Kompira and Hachiman, the so-called Shinto deities worshipped were probably unknown in pre-Buddhist ages, and owed their origin to priestly ingenuity. This curious state of things began to totter more than a century ago, under the attacks of a school of enthusiastically patriotic literati who revived the ancient traditions of " pure Shinto." When the revolution of 1863 occurred, and restored the Mikado's authority, these old traditions, amongst which the divine right of the sovereign was one of the most important, became paramount. It was for a time hoped that Buddhism might be suppressed, and Shinto established as the sole national religion ; but the extreme party was in the end not allowed to have its way. The reform was limited to the complete separation of the two religions, and the Buddhist priests were expelled from the Shinto temples, which they had so long "contaminated" by their sway. All buildings, such as pagodas, belfries, and richly decorated shrines, that did not properly belong to the Shinto establishment were removed, many precious structures being thus destroyed by " purifying " zeal. In consequence of all this, the modern visitor to Japan loses much that delighted the eyes of those who came twenty years ago. To quote but a single example, the temple of Hachiman at Kamakura has been despoiled of its chief beauty. On the other hand, he has better opportunities for familiarising himself with the style of " pure Shinto," which, if severely simple, is at least unique in the world. 23. — Japanese Buddhism. Buddhism, in its Chinese form, first entered Japan via Korea in the 6th century of the Christian era, the first Japanese pagoda having been erected about A.D. 584 by one Soga-no-Iname. The Constantine of Japa- nese Buddhism was Sliotoku Taishi, prince regent under the Empress Suiko (A.D. 593-621), from whose time many of the most celebrated tem- ples date. Thenceforward, though Shinto was never entirely suppressed, Buddhism became for centuries the popular national religion, appealing as it did to the deepest instincts of the liuman heart, both by its doctrine and by its ritual, in a way which Shinto could never emulate. Buddhism was adopted by the very Mikados, descendants of the Shinto Goddess of the Sun. During the 6th, 7th, and 8th centuries, Korean and Chinese monks and nuns visited Japan for purposes of proselytism, much as Christian missionaries visit it to-day. From the 8th century onwards, it be- came more usual for the Japanese monks to visit China, in order to study the doctrines of the best-accredited teachers at the fountain-head. From these historical circumstances results the general adhesion of the Japa- nese Buddhists to the Chinese, Northern, or " Greater Vehicle " school of that religion (Sanskrit, Mahdydna ; Jap. Daijo), in whose teachiugs the simple morality of Southern Buddhism, as practised in Ceylon and Siam, 36 Introduction : — Japanese Buddhism. is overlaid with many mystical and ceremonial observances. It must not be supposed, however, that all Japanese Buddhists agree among themselves. Buddhism was already over a thousand years old when introduced into this archipelago, and Chinese Buddhism, in particular, was split into numerous sects and sub-sects, whose quarrels took new root on Japanese soil. Some of the Chinese sects of that early day still survive. Such are the Tended and the Shingon. Others, notably the Nichiren and Shin sects, are later Japanese developments. The following are the chief denominations existing at the present day : — Tended (3 sub-sects). Shingon (2 sub-sects). Joelo (3 sub-sects). | Rimed (9 sub-sects). Zen, divided into i Soto. [Obahu. Shin, Monto (Hongiceinji), or Ikkol(10 sub-sects). Nichiren or HoJcIce (7 sub- sects). Ji. Yuzu Nembutsu. The points in dispute between the various sects are highly metaphy- sical and technical, — so much so that Mr. Satow, speaking of the Shingon sect, asserts that its " whole doctrine is extremely difficult to compre- hend, and more difficult to put into intelligible language." Of another sect he tells us that its " highest truths are considered to be incom- prehensible, except to those who have attained to Buddhaship." * Under these circumstances, the general reader will perhaps do best simply to fix in his mind the following few cardinal facts : — that Buddhism arose in India, some say in the 7th, others in the 11th, century before Christ ; that its founder was the Buddha Shaka Muni, a prince of the blood royal, who, disenchanted first of worldly pleasures and then of the austerities which he practised for long years in the Himalayan wilderness under the guidance of the most self-denying anchorites of his time, at length felt dawn on his mind the truth that all happh * The following may serve as a specimen of the difficulties to be encountered in this study : — ** The doctrine of the sect is compared to a piece of cloth, in which teaching of Shaka is the warp, and the interpretation or private judgment of individual, corrected by the opinion of other monks, is the woof. It is held that there is a kind of intuition or perception of truth, called Shin-ayo, suggested by the words of scripture, but transcending them in certainty. This is said to be in harmony with the thought of Shaka. The entirety of doctrine, however, results in one central troth, namely that ISiivana is the final result of existence, a state in which the thinking substance, while remaining individual, is unaffected by external, and is consequently devoid of feeling, thought, or passion. To this the name of Mu-i (Asa«/skWta) is given, signifying absolute, unconditioned existence. When this is spoken of as annihilation, it is the annihilation of conditions, not of the! sul stai ce, that is meant. Pushed to its logical result, this would appear to the ignorant (i.e., the unregenerate) to amount to the same thing as non-existence; but here we are encountered by one of those mysteries which lie at the foundation of all religious belief, and which must be accepted without questioning, if there any spiritual religion at all. A follower of Herbert Spencer would probably object that this is an 'illegitimate symbolical conception.' "Ignorant and obtuse minds are to be taught by lohen, that is by the presenta- tion of truth under a form suited to their capacity. For superior intellects shaka, quitting the symbolic teaching appropriate to the vernacular understanding, revealed the truth in itself. Whoever can apprehend the Ten Abstract Truths in their proper order may, after four successive births, attain to perfect Buddhaship, while the 'in- ferior intelligence can only arrive at that condition after UX) Kalpas, or periods of time transcending calculation."— (Satow.) Jmamm—mmmmmamaammmmmmmmammmmmmmmm oiMA8 3>il =JO 3JMM3T TS.'HdGUa UDDHIST TEMPLE OF IKESAMl Japanese Buddhism. 37 and salvation come from within, — come from the recognition of the impermanence of all phenomena, from the extinction of desire which is at the root of life, life itself being at the root of all sorrow and imperfection. Asceticism still reigned snpreme ; but it was asceticism rather of the mind than of outward observances, and its ultimate object was absorption into Nirvana, which some interpret to mean annihilation, while others describe it as a state in which the thinking substance, after numerous transmigrations and progressive sanctification, attains to perfect beatitude in serene tranquillity. Neither in China nor in Japan lias practical Buddhism been able to maintain itself at these philosophic heights, but by the aid of hob en, or pious devices, the priesthood has played into the hands of popular superstition. Here as elsewhere there have been evolved charms, amulets, pilgrimages, and gorgeous temple services, in which people worship not only the Buddha who was himself an agnostic, but his disciples and even such abstractions as Amida, which are mistaken for actual divine personages. Annexed is the plan of the temple of Hommonji at Ikegami near Tokyo, which may be regarded as fairly typical of Japanese Buddhist architecture. The roofing of these temples is generally of tiles, forming a contrast to the primitive thatch of their Shinto rivals, The chief features are as follows : 1. The Saminon, or two-storied Gate, at the entrance to the temple grounds. 2. The Ema-do, or Ex-voto Hall, also called Gaku-do. 3. The Shard, or Belfry. 4. The Hondo, or Main Temple. 5. The Soshi-do, or Founder's Hall, dedicated to Nichiren the founder of the sect to which this temple belongs. 6. The Taho-to, or Pagoda-shaped Reliquary containing portions of Nichiren's body. 7. The Pdnzo, or Revolving Library, holding a complete copy of the Buddhist canon. 8. The Shoin, also called Zashiki, or Priests' Apartments. 9. The Kyaku-den, or Reception Rooms. 10. The Hozo, or Treasure-house. 11. The Dai-dokoro, or Kitchen. 12. The Chozu-bachi, or Cistern for washing the hands before worsbip. 13. The Drum-tower (Koro). 14. The Pagoda (Go-ju no to). 15. Stone Lanterns (Ishi-dorb) presented as offerings. All temples do not possess a Founder's Hall in addition to the Main Temple, and very few possess a Taho-to or a Rinzo. In the temples of the Monto or Hongwanji sect, which always comprise two chief edifices, the larger of the two unites in itself the functions of Main Temple and Founder's Hall, while the lesser, with which it is connected by a covered gallery, is sometimes specially dedicated to Amida, the deity chiefly -hipped by this sect, and is sometimes used for preaching sermons in, whence the name of Jiki-do, or Refectory, alluding to the idea that sermons are food for the soul. A set of Buddhist buildings, with pagoda, belfry, etc., all complete, is often called a Shichi-do Garan. The termina- tion ji, which occurs in so many temple names, means "Buddhist 38 Introduction : — Japanese Buddhism. temple" in Chinese ; the current Japanese word is tcra. Most Buddhist temples have alternative names ending in sail and in. Many temples have what is called an Oltu- no-in, — a Holy of Holies, so to say, which is generally situated behind the main shrine, and often a long way up the mountain at whose foot the other temple buildings cluster. Most Oku-no-in are less highly ornamented than the temples to which they belong. Some indeed are mere sheds. The ceremony of throwing open to the gaze of worshippers the shrine which holds the image of the patron saint, is called Kaidio, and is usual- ly, accompanied by a short service. Pictures of the god, together with holy inscriptions (o fuda) and charms (mamori) are sold at many temples. The specimens here figured are from the great shrine of Pudo at Narita. Sometimes cheap miniature reprints of Buddhist sutras are offered for sale, bundles of straws or sticks used as counters by those performing what is termed the Hyaku-do, that is the pious act of walking up and down the temple court a hundred times, etc., etc. The flocks of pigeons seen fluttering about many temple courts are not objects of worship. They simply take up their home where piety secures from them molestation. object frequently seen in Buddhist temple grounds is the sotoba or toba. a corruption of the Sanskrit sttlpa (tope), which was ori- ginally a memorial erected over the remains of a saint. It assumes two forms in Japan, one being a thin stick, notched and often inscribed with Indian characters, the other a stone monument in common use as a grave- stone, where the component elem of the structure are more clearly in- dicated. They are the ball, crescent, pyramid, sphere and cube, sym- bolising respectively Ether, Air, Fire, Water, and Earth. One glance at a sotoba is said to ensure the foi> ness of all sins. The way up to temples or sacred mountains is frequently marked by oblong stones, like mile-stones, at the interval of a did, inscribed as follows : — PTf (or — f), one did; Zl W two did, etc. Stones with inscriptions, for which wooden boards are often substituted, also serve to commemorate gifts of money to the temple, or of trees to THE SOTOBA (In its two shapes.) Gods and Goddesses. 39 ornament the grounds. Irregularly shaped slabs of stcne are much prized by the Japanese, who use them as monumental tablets. All the famous holy places have subsidiary or representative temples (tUsushi or de-barij in various parts of the Empire, for the convenience of those worshippers who cannot make the actual pilgrimage. The shrine of the Narita Fudo at Asakusa in Tokyo is a familiar example. 24. — List of Gods and Goddesses. The following are the most popular deities, Buddhist and Shinto. They are placed together in one list, because throughout Japanese history there has been more or less confusion between the two religion- : — Aieen Myo-o, el deity represented with a fierce expression, a fiarning halo, three eyes, and six arms. Nevertheless he is popularly regarded as the God of Love. Anderson describes him as "a transformation of Atchal. the In A .-tcrasu, lit. "the Heaven-Shiner," that is, the Sun-Godd Born from the left eye of the Creator Izanagi. was performing his ablutions on returning from a visit be his lead wife Iza- nami in Hades, herself the ancestress :: Imperial Family of Japan. The m:~: striking episode in her legem that in which she is insulted by her brother 3usa-no-c and retires in high dudgeon to a cavern, thus plunging the whole world in larks All the >thei gods and goddesses assemble at the cavern's month, with music and dancing. At length curiosity lures her to tire door, and she is finally enticed out by the sight of her own fair image in a mirror, which one of the gods pushes : r ards her. The origin of sacred 3 3es called Kagura is traced to this incident by the native literati. Other names under which the Sun-Goddess it known are Shako Daijin, and JT A}. ' Sanskrit A .' ) Ekpowe deity dwelling in a lovely paradise t Originally A . ..'. was an abst . - tion, the ideal of boundless light. His cerally be recognised by hands lying on the lap, with :re thumbs placed end to end. Very after ::: halo (goko) forms a background not only to the he is then termed fwna-goko, from its resemblance in shape to a boar. The spot on the forehead is emblematical of wisdom. [ : im- age (Daibutsu) at Kamakura rej res ants this deity. Anas (Sanskrit, . . one of Bud- end earliest converts. He is called Tamon ^\£ . lit. "hearing much." on account of h ive know- ledge and wonderful memory, a name which is also applied to Bishamon. BenteuST, or Bzxzaiten, one of the Seven Deities of Luck. She is often represented riding on a serpent or dragon, whence perhaps the sacred character attributed amida. 40 Introduction : — Gods and Goddesses. in mauy localities to snakes, on islands. Benten's shrines are mostly situated Bixzuru, originally one of the Six- teen Rakaiu was expelled from their number for having violated his vow of chastity by remarking upon the beauty of a female, whence the usual situation of his image outside the chancel. It is also said that Buddha conferred on him the power to cure all human ills. For this reason, believers rub the image of Binzuru on that part which may be causing them pain in their own bodies, and then rub themselves in the hope of obtaining relief. Binzuru is a highly popular object of worship with the lower classes, and his image is often to be seen adorned by his devotees with a red or yellow cotton hood, a bib, and mittens. Bishamon (Sanskrit, Vdisramana), explained in Eitel's Hand-book of Chi- nese Buddhism as the God of Wealth, has been adopted by the Japanese as one of their Seven Gods of Luck, with £>j.x>ziuxiu. .j.j ie S p ec i a i characteristic of imperson- ating war. Hence he is represented as clad in armour and bearing a spear, as well as a toy pagoda. Boxtex, Brahma. Bosatsu (Sanskrit, Bodhisattva), the general title of a large class of Buddhist saints, who have only to pass through one more human exist- ence before attaining to Buddhahood. Daikoku, the God of Wealth, may be known by his rice-bales. Daixichi Nyorai (Sanskrit, Vdirotchcuia Tathagata), is one of the persons of the Tritrana, or Bud- dhist Trinity, the personification of wisdom and of absolute purity. He is popularly confounded with Fudo, the images of the two being diffi- cult to distinguish. Daiseishi, a Bosatsu belong- ing to the retinue of Amida. Daishi, a title applied to many Buddhist abbots and saints. It means either " Great Teacher," or ''Perfected Saint" (Sanskrit Mah&sattva), according to the characters used to write it. Dabuma (Sanskrit, Dharma), a deified Indian Buddhist patriarch of the 6th century, who sat for nine years in profound abstrac- tion till his legs fell off. Dosojin, the God of Roads. Gods and Goddesses, 41 Ebisu, one of the Gods of Luck, is the patron of honest labour. He bears in his hand a tai-fish. EMMA-6. Emma-0 (Sanskrit, Ydma-raja), the regent of the Buddhist hells. He may be known by his cap resembling a judge's beret, and by the huge mace in his right hand. Before him often sit two myrmidons, one of whom holds a pen to write down the sins of human beings, while the other reads out the list of their offences from a scroll. Fu Daishi, a deified Chinese priest of the 6th century, the inventor of the Rinzo, or Revolving Libraries, for a description of which see Route 4, Asakusa Temple. Fu Daishi is represented in art seated between his two sons Fuken and Fujo, who clap their hands and laugh, and hence are popularly known as Warai-botoke, or the Laughing Buddhas. Fudo (Sanskrit, Achala). Much obscurity hangs over the origin and attributes of this popular divinity. According to Sir Monier Williams, Achala, which means " immovable " {Fudo, ^pfft, translates this meaning exactly), is a name of the Brahminical God Siva and of the first of the nine deified persons called " white Balas " among the Jainas. Satow says : — " Fudo (Akshara)is identified with Dainichi (Vairo^ana), the God of Wisdom, which quality is symbolised by the flames which surround him : it is a common error to suppose that he is the God of Fire. According to the popular view, the sharp sword which he grasps in the right hand is to frighten evil-doers, while in his left hand he holds a rope to biod them with." — Fudo is generally represented in art attended by his two chief followers, Seitaka Ddji and Kongara Doji. Fugex (Sanskrit, Samantabliadra) is the special divine patron of those who practise the HoJckc-zammai, a species of ecstatic meditation. His image is generally seated on the right hand of Shaka. 42 Introduction: — Gods and Goddesses. Fukukokuju, one of the Gods of Luck, is distinguished by a preter- naturally long head, and typifies longevity and wisdom. Go-chi Nyobai, the Five Bud- dhas of Contemplation or of Wisdom, viz., Yakushi, Taho, Dainichi, Ashu- ku, and Shaka. But some authori- ties make a different enumeration. Goxgen. This is not the name of any special divinity, but a general term used in Ryobu Shinto (see p. 35) to denote such Shinto gods as are considered to be " temporary manifestations," that is, avatars or incarnations of Buddhas. It is, however, applied with special fre- quency to leyasu, the deified founder of the Tokugawa dynasty of Skoguns, who is the Gongcn Savia, that is Lord Gongen par excellence. Gwakeo Bosatsu, a Buddhist moon-deity. Hachemax, the Chinese _name under which, the Emperor Oiin is worshipped as the God of War. The Japanese equivalent is Yaw reason for this particular form of apotheosis is not apparent, as no warlike exploits are recounted of the monarch in question. Perhaps it may be owing to the tradition that his mother, the Empress Jingo, car- ried him for three }'ears in her womb whilst making her celebrated i upon Korea. Au other explanation, suggested by Mr. Satow, is that his high position in the pantheon re- ed from the fact of his having been the patron of the powerful and war- like Alinamoto clan. Hotei, one of the Seven Gods of Luck, typifies contentment and good- nature. Ke is represented in art with an enormous naked abdomen. Hotoke, the general name of all Buddhas, that is, gods or per- fected saints of popular Buddhism. The dead are also often spoken of as hotoke. Ida Tex (Sanskrit, Ytda Bdja), a protector of Buddhism, generally represented as a strong and hand- some youth. Gods and Goddesses. 43 IXARI. Inari, the Goddess of Rice, also called Uga-no-Mitama. The im- age of the fox, which is always found in temples dedicated to Inari, seems to have been first placed there as a tribute to the fear which that wily beast in- spires ; but in popular superstition Inari is the fox-deity. There is some confusion with regard to the sex of Inari, who is occasion- ally represented as a bearded man. Izaxagi and Izaxalii, the Crea- tor and Creatress of Japan. The curious though indelicate legend of their courtship, the striking legend of the descent of Izanagi into Hades to visit Izanami after the latter's death and burial, and the account of Izanagi's lustrations, will be found in pp. 18-43 of the translation of the KojiH, forming the Supplement to Vol. X. of the Transactions of the Asiatic Society of Japan. Jizo (Sanskrit, Kshitigarbha), the compassionate Buddhist helper of those who are in trouble. He is the patron of travellers, of pregnant wo- men, and of children. His image is often loaded with pebbles, which serve in the other world to relieve the labours of the young who have been robbed of their clothes by the hag named Slid- zuTca no Baba, and then set by her to perform the endless task of piling up stones on the bank of the Buddhist Styx. Jizo is represented as a shaven priest with a benevolent countenance, holding in one hand a jewel, in the other a staff with metal rings (shakujo). His stone image is found more fre- quently than that of any other object of worship throughout the Empire. It- need scarcely be said that the resem- blance in sound between the names Jizo and Jcsits is quite fortuitous. Jurojin, one of the Gods of Luck, often represented as accompanied by a stag and a crane. Kami, a general name for all Shinto jizo. gods and goddesses. Kasho (Sanskrit, Kdsyapa), one of Buddha's foremost disciples. He is said to have swallowed the sun and moon, in consequence whereof his body became radiant like gold. Kishi Bojix, the Indian goddess Rariti or Ariti, was originally a woman, who, having sworn to devour all the children at Rajagriha, the metropolis of Buddhism, was reborn as a demon and gave birth to five hundred children, one of whom she was bound to devour every day. She A I z 4:4: Introduction : — Gods and Goddesses. was converted by Buddha, and entered a nunnery. The Japanese wor- ship her as the protectress of children. She is represented as a beauti- ful woman, carrying a child, and holding a pomegranate in one hand. The lanterns and other ornaments of the temples dedicated to her are marked with the crest of the pomegranate. The offerings brought to her shrine by bereaved mothers are such as may well touch any heart, — the dresses, dolls, and other mementos of their lost darlings. Kojix, the God of the Kitchen. Kokuzo Bosatsu (Sanskrit, AJcdsha Bodhisattva), an infinitely wise female saint, who dwells in space. Kompiba (Sanskrit, Kwnbhira). Much obscurity shrouds the origin and nature of this highly popular divinity. According to some he is a demon, the crocodile or alligator of the Ganges. Others aver that Shaka Muni (Buddha) himself became " the boy Kompira," in order to over- come the heretics and enemies of religion who pressed upon him one day as he was preaching in "the Garden of Delight," — the said "boy Kompira " having a bodj 7 1,000 ft. long, provided with 1,000 heads and 1,000 arms. The mediaeval Shintoists identified Kompira with Susa-no-o, brother of the Japanese Sun-Goddess. More recently it has been de- clared, on the part of the Shinto authorities whose cause the Government espouses in all such disputes, that the Indian Kompira is none other than Kotohira, a hitherto obscure Japanese deity whose name has a con- venient similarity in sound. Consequently the great Buddhist shrine of Kompira in the island of Shikoku, and all the other shrines erected to Kompira throughout the Empire, have been claimed and taken ever as Shinto property. Kompira is a special object of devotion to seamen and travellers. Koshin, a deification of that day of the month which corresponds to the 57th term of the Chinese sexagesimal circle, and is called in Japanese Ka-no-e Saru. This being the day of the Monkey, it is represented by three monkeys (sam biJci-zarii) called respectively, by a play upon words, mi-zaru, kika-zaru, and iica-zaru, that is, " the blind monkey," "the deaf monkey," and "the dumb monkey." Stone slabs with these three monkeys in relief are among the most usual objects of devotion met with on the roadside in the rural districts of Japan, the idea being that this curious triad will neither see, hear, nor speak any evil. Kuni-toko-tachi, lit. "The Earthly Eternally Standing One." This deity, with Izanagi, Izan ami, and four others, helps to form what are termed " The Seven Divine Generations " ( Ten] in Sliiclii-dai). Kwaxxon (Sanskrit, Avalokitesvara), the Goddess of Mercy, w T ho contemplates the world and listens to the prayers of the unhappy. According to another but less favourite opinion, Kwannon belongs to the male sex. Kwannon is represented under various forms — many-headed, headed like a horse, thousand-handed. With reference to the images of Kwannon, it should be stated that the so-called Thousand-Handed iiion has in reality but forty hands which hold out a number of Buddhist emblems, such as the lotus-flower, the wheel of the law, an and moon, a skull, a pagoda, and an axe — this last serving to typify severance from all worldly cares. A pair of hands folded on the image's lap holds the bowl of the mendicant priest. The Horse- Headed Kwannon has three faces and four pairs of arms, a horse's head being carved above the forehead of the central face. One of the four pairs of arms is clasped before the breast in the attitude called Ecnge no In, emblematical of the lotus-flower. Another pair holds Gods and Goddesses. 45 KWANNON. 46 Introduction : — Gods and Goddesses. the axe and wheel. Yet another pair grasps two forms of the tofcTco (Sanskrit, vdjra), an ornament originally designed to represent a dia- mond club, and now used by priests and exorcists as a religious sceptre symbolising the irresistible power of prayer, meditation, and incantation. Of the fourth pair of hands, the left holds a cord wherewith to bind the wicked, and the right is stretched out open to indicate almsgiving or succour to the weak and erring. A title often applied to Kwannon is Nyo-i-rin, properly the name of a gem which is supposed to enable its possessor to gratify all his desires, arid which may be approximately rendered by the adjective " omnipotent." The two figures often represented on either side of Kwannon are Pudo and Aizen Myo-6. The "Twenty-eight Followers" of Kwannon (Ni-ju-liacJii Bushu), — favourite subjects of the Japanese sculptor and painter — are personifications of the twenty-eight constellations known to Far-Eastern astronomy. The various forms represented in the accom- panying illustration are : 1. Sho-Kwannon (Kwannon the Wise). 2. Ju-ichi-men Kwannon (Eleven-Faced). 3. Sen-ju Kwannon (Thousand-Handed). 4. Ba-to Kwannon (Horse-Headed). 5. Nyo-i-rin Kwannon (Omnipotent). Mabishitbn (Sanskrit, Marichi), is the personification of light in the Brahmimeal theology, and also a name of Krishna. In Chinese and Japa- nese Buddhism, Marishiten is considered to be the Queen of Heaven, and is believed by some to have her residence in a star forming part of the constellation of the Great Bear. She is represented with eight arms, two of which hold up emblems of the sun and moon. Maya Buxix, the mother of Buddha. Mida, see Amida. Mikoto, a title- applied to Shinto deities. It is best translated by ; ' Au gu st n e s s . " Mihoku (Sanskrit, Mditreya), Buddha's successor, — the Buddhist Messiah, whose advent is expected to take place 5,000 years after Buddha's entry into Nirvana. Monju (Sanskrit Manjusri), the apotheosis of transcendental wisdom. His image is usually seated on the left hand of Shaka. Nikko Bosatsu, a Buddhist solar deity. Ni-6, lit. "the Two Deva Kings," Indra and Brahma, who keep guard at the outer gate of temples to scare away demons. Each bears in his hand the toTcJco. The figures of the Ni-6 are of gigantic size and terrific appearance, and are often bespattered with little pellets of paper, aimed at them by devotees who think thus to secure the accomplishment of some desire on which they have set their hearts. Nyobai (Sanskrit, Tathdgata), an honorific title applied to all Buddhas. It is compounded of Chinese nyo (jfl), " like," and rai (^Sg), " to come," the idea being that a Buddha is one whose coming and going are in accordance with the action of his predecessors. Onamuji or Okuni-nushi, the aboriginal deity of Izumo, who re- signed his throne in favour of the Mikado's ancestors when they came down from heaven to Japan. He is also worshipped under the titles of Sanno and Hie. Oxi, a general name for demons, ogres, or devils, — not " the Devil " in the singular, as Japanese theology knows nothing of any supreme Prince of Darkness. Gods and Goddesses. 47 Kazan (Sanskrit, Arhdn, or Arhat), properly the perfected Arya or "holy man," but used to designate not only the perfected saint, but all Buddha's disciples, more especially his "Five Hundred Disciples" {Go-hyaku RaJcan), and his " Sixteen Disciples " (Ju-roku RaJcan). Few art-motives are more popular with Japanese painters and sculptors. The holy men are represented in various attitudes, emaciated and scantily clad. Boku-bu-tex, a collective name for the Buddhist gods Bonten, Taishaku, and the Shi-Tenno. Saeuta-hiko, a Shinto deity who led the van when the divine ancestors of the Mikado descended to take possession of Japan. Seishi, a Buddhist deity who constantly attends Ami da. Sexgex, the Goddess of Mount Fuji. She is also called Asama or Ko-no-Ha:ia-Saku-ya-Him.e, that is, "the Princess who makes the Flowers of the Trees to Blossoms." SHAKA MUNI. Shaxa Muni, the Japanese pronunciation of S'dkya Muni, the name of the founder of Buddhism, who was also called Gautama and is gene- poken of by Europeans as "Buddha," though it would be more correct to say " the Buddha." In his youth he was called Shitta Taishi (Sanskrit, Siddhdrtha). His birth is usually placed by the Chinese and Japanese in the year 1027 B.C., but the date accepted by European scholars is 653 B.C. The most accessible account of Buddha's life and doctrine is that given by Professor Rhys Davids, in his little work entitled BuddJiisvi published by the Society for Promoting Christian Know- ledge. The entombment of Buddha, with all creation standing weeping around, is a favourite motive of Japanese art. Such pictures are called 48 Introduction : — Gods and Goddesses. Ncluinzo, that is " Representations of the Entry into Nirvana." The birth of Buddha (tanjo-Shaka) is also often represented, the great teacher then appearing as a naked infant with his right hand pointing up and his left hand down, to indicate the power which he exercises over heaven and earth. Our illustration gives the most usual form of his image. Though not un- like that of Amida, it differs from the latter by the position of the hand and the shape of the halo. The chief festivals of Shaka are on the 8th April (his birthday) and the 15th February (the anniversary of his death). Shakihotsu (Sanskrit, S'ariputtra), the wisest of Buddha's ten chief disciples. Shichi Fukujin, the Seven Gods of Luck, namely 1 Ebisu, 2 Dai- koku, 3 Benten, 4 Fukurokuju, 5 Bishamon, 6 Jurojin, 7 Hotei. Shi-Tenno, the Four Heavenly Kings, who guard the world against the attacks of demons, each defending one quarter of the horizon. Their names are Jikoku, East (Sanskrit Dhritarashtra) ; Komoku, South (Virupdksha)) Zocho, West (VirudJiaka) ; and Tamon — also called Bisha- mon, — North (Vdisravana or Kuvera). Their images differ from those of the Ni-d by holding weapons in their hands, and generally trampling demons under foot. Moreover they are placed, not at the outer gate of temples, but at an inner one. Shozuka no Baba. See Jizo. Sukuna-Bikona, a microscopic god who aided Onamuji to establish his rule over the land of Izumo before the descent to earth of the ancestors of the Mikados. Susa-no-o, lit. " the Impetuous Male." The name of this deity is explained by the violent conduct which he exhibited towards his sister, the Sun-Goddess Ama-terasu, whom he alarmed so terribly by his mad freaks that she retired into a cavern. Born from the nose of the Creator Izanagi, Susa-no-o is considered by some to be the God of the Sea, by others the God of the Moon. He was the ancestor of the gods or mon- arch s of the province of Izumo, who finally renounced their claims to sovereignty over any part of Japan in favour of the descendants of the Sun-Goddess. Susa-no-o is also styled Gczu Tenno, " the Ox-headed Emperor," — a name apparently derived from that of a certain mountain in Korea where he is supposed to have been worshipped. The temples dedicated to Susa-no-o are called Gion or Yasaka. The former are Buddhist or Ryobu Shinto ; the latter are pure Shinto shrines. Taishaku, the Brahminical god Indra. Tamon, see Anan. Ten, a title suffixed to the names of many Buddhist deities, and equivalent to the Sanskrit Diva. Tenjin is the name under which is apotheosised the great minister and scholar Sugawara-no-Michizane, who, having fallen a victim to calumny in A.D. 901, was degraded to the post of Vice-President of the Dazaifu, or Governor-Generalship of the island of Kyushu, at that time a usual form of banishment for illustrious criminals. He died in exile in A.D. 903, his death being followed by many portents and dis- asters to his enemies. He is worshipped as the God of Calligraphy, other names for him being Kan Shojo and Temmangu. He is repre- sented in the robes of an ancient court noble, and the temples dedicated to him bear in several places his crest of six stars. A recumbent image of a cow frequently adorns the temple grounds, because Michizane used to ride about on a cow in the land of his exile. A plum-tree is also often planted near the temple, that having been his favourite tree. Indeed, GODS OF LUCK (SHICHI FUKUJIN). 50 Introduction: — Christian Mission Stations. tradition says that the most beautiful plum-tree in his garden at Kyoto flew after him through the air to Dazaifu. Texxix (Sanskrit, Apsaras), Buddhist angels — always of the female sex. They are represented floating in the air, clothed in bright-coloured robes that often end in long feathers like the tails of the bird of paradise, and playing on instruments of music. T6sh5gc, the name under which the great Shogun Ieyasu, also called Gongen Sama, is worshipped. It signifies " the Temple (or Prince) Illuminating the East," in allusion to the fact that Ieyasu's glory centred in Eastern Japan. TOYO-UKB-BiMB, also called Uke-mochi-no-Kami, the Shinto Goddess of Food or of the Earth. The Nihongi, one of the two principal sources of Japanese mythology and early history, says that the Sun-Goddess sent the Moon-God down from heaven to visit Uke-mochi-no-Kami, who, turning her face successively towards the earth, the sea, and the mountains, pro- duced from her mouth rice, fish, and game, which she served up to him at a banquet. The Moon-God took offence at her feeding him with unclean viands, and drawing his sword, cut off her head. On his reporting this act to the Sun-Goddess, the latter was very angry, and secluded herself from him for the space of a day and night. From the body of the murdered Earth sprang cattle and horses, millet, silkworms, rice, barley, and beans, which the Sun-Goddess decreed should thenceforth be the food of the human race. In the KojiJci version of the myth, it is Susa-no-o who slays the Goddess of Food, and there are other differences of detail. Yakusht Nyorai (Sanskrit, Blidishajyagurii), lit. "the Healing Buddha." His name is explained by reference to a prayer, in which he is called upon to heal in the next life the miserable condition of man's present existence. The images of this deity are scarcely to be dis- tinguished from those of Shaka. 25. — Christian Mission Stations. The Roman Catholic Mission in Japan dates from the time of Saint Francis Xavier, and though Christianity was sternly repressed during the 17th and 18th centuries and down to 1873, the embers continued to smoulder, especially in the island of Kyushu. The Catholic Church now has an Archbishop at Tokyo, and Bishops at Osaka, Nagasaki, and Hakodate, with a total following of over 44,000. The labours of the Protestant Missionaries commenced in 1859, and a network of mission stations now covers the greater portion of the Empire. Tokyo and the Open Ports are the head-quarters of most of the denominations, and are, for shortness' sake, not mentioned in the following list of mission stations, given for the benefit of travellers interested in Christian work. The Church of Christ in Japan {Nippon Itchi KyoTcwai), an amalga- mation of American and Scotch Presbyterian Churches, has the largest number of members, over 11,000. Stations :— Fukui, Hiroshima, Kana- zawa, Koohi, Kyoto, Morioka, Nagoya, Okazaki, Sapporo, Sendai, Tokushima, Ueno, Wakayama, Yamaguchi, Yokkaichi. The Kumi-ai Churches, in co-operation with the American Board's Mission, over 10,000 members. Stations: — Kumamoto, Kyoto, Maebashi, Matsuyama, Miyazaki, Okayama, Sendai, Tottori, Tsu. The Nippon Sci Ko/civai, including the missions of the Church of England and of the Protestant Episcopal Church of America, 4,000. Outline of Japanese History. 51 Stations : — Aomori, Fukuoka, Fukushima, Fukuyama, Gifu, Kumamoto, Kushiro, Matsue, Nagoya, Nara, Sapporo, Tokushima, Yonago. American Methodist Episcopal Church, over 4,000. Stations :— Fuku- oka, Hirosaki, Hiroshima, Kagoshima, Matsuyama, Nagoya, Oita, Sendai, Uwajima, Yamaguchi, Yonezawa. Methodist Church of Canada, 1,900. Stations : — Fukui, Kanazawa, Kofu, Nagano, Shizuoka, Toyama. American Baptist Missionary Union, over 1,300. Stations : — Himeji, Nemuro, Sendai, Toyoura. The above stations are those at which foreign missionaries reside. Native pastors carry on the work at other places. Numerous smaller denominations, chiefly American, are also represented. The Orthodox Russian Church has a flourishing mission, whose head- quarters are at Tokyo. 26. — Outline of Japanese History. Nothing is known concerning the origin of the Japanese people, or the period at which they reached their present habitat. The dawn of trustworthy history, in the 5th century after Christ, finds the Mikados — Emperors claiming descent from the Sun-Goddess Ama-terasu — already governing all Japan except the North, which was still occupied by the Aino aborigines, and Chinese civilisation beginning to filter into what had apparently hitherto been a semi-barbarous land. The chief pioneers of this civilisation were Buddhist priests from Korea. From that time forward Japanese history consists, broadly speaking, in the rise of successive great families and chiefs, who, while always pro- fessing a nominal respect for the divine authority of the Mikado, practically usurp his power and are the de facto rulers of the country. By the end of the 12th century, the old absolutism had been converted into a feudalism, of which Yoritomo, the successful leader of the Minamoto family or clan, became the acknowledged head under the title of Shocjun, which closely corresponds in etymology and in mean- ing to the Latin Imperator. Thus was inaugurated the dual sj'stern of government which lasted down to the year 1868, — the Mikado supreme in name, but powerless and dwelling in a gilded captivity at the old capital Kyoto, the Shdgun with his great feudatories, his armed re- tainers, and his well-filled exchequer, ruling the whole empire from his new capital in Eastern Japan— first Kamakura, then Yedo. During the latter period of the nominal supremacy of the Minamoto family of Shoguns, the real power was in the hands of their chief retainers, the Hojo family, — the political arrangement thus becoming a triple one. The rule of the Hojo was rendered memorable by the repulse of the Mongol fleet sent by Kublai Khan to conquer Japan, since which time Japan has never been invaded by any foreign foe. The Ashikaga line of Shoguns grasped the power which had fallen from the H6jo T s hands, and distinguished themselves by their patronage of the arts. The second half of the 16th century was a period of anarchy, during which two great soldiers of fortune who were not Shoguns — Nobunaga and Hideyoshi — successively rose to supreme power. Hideyoshi even went so far as to conquer Korea and to meditate the conquest of China, an enterprise which was, however, interrupted by his death in A.D. 1598. Tokugawa Ieyasu, Hideyoshi's greatest general, then succeeded in making Japan his own, and founded a dynasty of Shoguns who ruled the land in 52 Introduction: — Outline of Japanese History. profound peace from 1603 to 1868. Among the means resorted to for securing this end, were the ejection of the Catholic missionaries and the closing of the country to foreign trade. Nagasaki was the only place in the Empire at which any communication with the outer world was per- mitted, no European nation hut the Dutch was allowed to trade there, and even Dutch commerce was restricted within narrow limits. At last, in 1853, the government of the United States sent a fleet under the com- mand of Commodore Perry to insist on the abandonment of the Japanese policy of isolation. This act of interference from the outside gave the coup de grace to the Shogunate, which had previously been weakened by internal discontent. It fell, and in its fall dragged down the whole fabric of mediaeval Japanese civilisation. On the one hand, the Mikado was restored to the absolute power which had belonged to his ancestors cen- turies before. On the other, Europe anism (if one may so phrase it) became supreme in every branch of thought and activity. The natural outcome of this has been the Europeanisation of the monarchy itself. Not only has the Court adopted foreign manners and etiquette, — it has granted a Constitution modelled on that of Prussia ; and the Diet, as it is termed, meets yearly. The tendency of this body is to grow rapidly more and more radical. The following are the chief dates of Japanese history : — B.C. *-h /Accession of the first Mikado, Jimmu Tenno 660 J-g-l A.D. £ "fi i Prince Yamato-take conquers S.W. and E. Japan . . 97-113 ^ffj Conquest of Korea by the Empress Jingo 200 " \ First Chinese books brought to Japan 285 Buddhism introduced from Korea 552 Shotoku Taishi patronises Buddhism . . . . ; 593-621 Government remodelled on Chinese bureaucratic plan . . . . 600-800 Chinese calendar introduced 602 Fujiwara family predominant 670-1050 The Court resides at Nara 709-784 First extant Japanese book published (Kojilci) 712 Printing introduced 770 Kyoto made the capital 794 Invention of Hira-gava syllabary 809 Struggle between the Taira and Minamoto clans 1156-1185 Yoritomo establishes the Shogunate at Kamakura 1192 Hojo family predominant 1205-1333 Repulse of the Mongols 1271-1281 Two rival lines of Mikaclos, the Northern and Southern Courts 1332-1392 Ashikaga dynasty of Shoguns 1338-1565 The Portuguese discover Japan 1542 St. Francis Xavier arrives in Japan 1549 First persecution of the Christians 15S7 Yedo founded by Ieyasu 1590 Hideyoshi invades Korea 1592-1598 Battle of Seki-ga-hara 1600 Tokugawa dynasty of Shoguns 1603-1868 Japan closed and Christianity prohibited 1624 The Dutch relegated to Deshima 1639 Kaempfer visits Japan 1690-92 Last eruption of Fuji 1707 Celebrated Personages. 53 Arrival of Commodore Perry 1853 First treaty signed with the United States 1854 Great earthquake at Yedo 1855 First treaties with European Powers 1857-59 Yokohama opened I . . . • 1858 First Japanese embassy sent abroad 1860 Bombardment of Shimonoseki 1864 The Shogunate abolished and the Mikado restored 1868 Civil war between Imperialists and partisans of the Shogun. . 1868-69 The Mikado removes to Yedo (Tokyo) 1869 Abolition of feudal system 1871 Tokyo- Yokohama railway opened 1872 Adoption of Gregorian calendar 1873 Expedition to Formosa 1874 The wearing of swords interdicted 1876 Satsuma rebellion 1877 New Codes published 1880-90 Constitution proclaimed 1889 First Diet met 1890 Great earthquake at Gifu 1891 27. — List of Celebrated Personages. The following list of celebrated personages referred to in this book, and likely to be mentioned by guides when explaining objects of historical or artistic interest, may be found useful. Akahito (flourished circa A.D. 700), one of the earliest great poets of Japan. His full name was Yamabe no Akahito. Antoku Texno, an ill-fated infant Mikado, who perished at sea in A.D. 1185, during the civil war waged between the Taira and Minamoto clans. Asaina Saburo (end of 12th century), one of Yoritomo's doughtiest retainers, was distinguished by almost incredible physical strength. He is represented in art as hurling great rocks with the same ease that he flings stalwart rivals, and as swimming with a live shark under each arm. Benkei, or Musashi-bo Benkei, was Yoshitsune's famous henchman. How many of Benkei's valorous achievements are historical, it would be hard to say. According to the current version, he was eight feet in height, strong as a hundred men, and had even in early years per- formed so many deeds of violence as to have been nicknamed Oni- iua/ca, "the Devil Youth." Having attempted to cut down Yoshitsune, then a mere stripling, on the Gojo Bridge in Kyoto, he found in him his master in the art of fencing, and was made to sue for quarter. So great was the veneration thus inspired in his breast, that he thenceforth attached himself to Yoshitsune's fortunes and died battling iu his cause. The fight between Yoshitsune and Benkei is a favourite subject with the artists of Japan. Another is the subterfuge by which Benkei made way for his master and their little band through one of the barriers where at that time all travellers were liable to be stopped. He pretended that he was a priest sent to collect subscriptions for the building of a new temple, and therefore privileged to travel free. The pictures represent him reading out his supposed ecclesiastical commission from a scroll to the barrier-keepers, who were too ignorant of letters to discover the feint. This story is the subject of a drama called Kanjin-cho. 54 Introduction : — Celebrated Personages, Buson (1716-1783), a highly original and vigorous artist of the Chinese school. Cho Denstj (second half of 14th century), the greatest and most original painter of the Buddhist school, is termed by Anderson " the Fra Angelico of Japan." Date Masamune (1567-1636), Daimyo of Sendai, is chiefly remem- bered for the embassy which he despatched to the Pope and to the King of Spain in 1614 (Comp. Route 4, Section 6). Date was eminent as a warrior, a diplomat, and a patron of learning and art. Dengyo Daishi (flourished about A.D. 800) was the first Buddhist abbot of Hiei-zan. He made a long sojourn in China for the purpose of esoteric study, and brought back with hirn the doctrines of the Tendai sect. En no Sh5kaiiu was a famous Buddhist saint and miracle-worker of the 7th century, and the first human being to ascend Haku-san, Daisen, Tateyama, and others of Japan's highest mountains, it being part of his mission to bring all such remote and inaccessible places under the sway of Buddha. Having been slandered as a magician and condemned to death, he so fortified himself by the use of mystic signs and formulae that the swords of the executioners sent to behead him snapped in pieces ; but afterwards he flew away through the air, and was never again seen by mortal eyes. Eshin (942-1017), a Buddhist abbot who is famous as a sculptor. Forty-Seven Ronins. Their story, too long to be told here, will be found in Tilings Japanese. Go-Daigo Tenno (reigned 1319-1339) was a Mikado celebrated for his misfortunes. At the beginning of his reign, the throne and the nation were alike trampled under foot by the Hojo " Regents " at Kamakura, and his endeavour to shake oft their domination only resulted, after much shedding of blood, in his being taken prisoner and banished to the Oki Islands. When the Hojo fell in 1333 under the sword of the loyalist warrior Nitta Yoshisada, the Emperor Go-Daigo was recalled from exile. But the times were not ripe for the abolition of military rule., nor was Go-Daigo wise in his choice of counsellors after his restoraton. Ashikaga Takauji, who had posed as the champion of Imperial rights, desired nothing so much as to become Shogun himself, and bribed the Mikado's concubiiie Kado-ko to poison her lord's mind against those who had served him most faithfully, and even against his own son, Prince Moriyoshi, who was declared a rebel, cast into a dungeon at Kamakura, and there murdered. Go-Daigo repented of his folly and weakness when it was too late. Takauji left Kyoto, and the army sent to smite him received such a crushing defeat that Go-Daigo was forced to seek safety inflight. Thereupon Takauji set another Mikado on the throne. But as Go-Daigo continued to be recognised by many as the rightful sovereign, the Mikadoate was split into two rival branches, called the Southern (legitimate) and the Northern (usurping) Courts. After sixty years of strife and misery, the Northern Court triumphed in 1392, the represen- tative of the Southern dynasty handing over to it the Imperial regalia. Go-Daigo perished at an early period of the struggle. His Court — if we may so call the mountain fastness where he mostly encamped — was at Yoshino, whose position to the South of Kyoto was the origin of the epithet " Southern " applied to it by native historians. Gyogi Bosatsu (670-749), a Korean by birth, and a Buddhist abbot and saint, is the subject of many artistic fictions. He is credited not only Celebrated Personages, 55 with, the invention of the potter's wheel, which was certainly used in Japan before his time, but with a number of important wood-carvings and other works of art. The ware called after him, Gyogi-yaJci is earthen- ware, — dark, glossy, very solid, having wave-lines in the interior, and a pattern resembling the impression of matting on the outside. Hachiman Taro, lit. the First-Born of the God of War, was a famous general of the end of the 11th century, whose real name was Minamoto no Yoshiie, and whose vigorous personality created the pre-eminence of the Minamoto family. He it was who conquered Northern Japan (the part beyond Sendai), and brought those hitherto barbarous provinces into permanent subjection to the Imperial sway. Artists often depict an episode in his career which showed his skill as a strategist, namely, his discovery of an ambush among the rushes which he inferred from the disturbed flight of the wild-geese overhead. Like many other turbulent spirits of that time, he forsook the w r orld and became a Buddhist monk at the approach of old age. Hidari Jingoeo (1594-1634), Japan's greatest carver in wood, vvas a simple carpenter whose nickname of Hidari arose from his being left- handed. Among the best known of his works, are the carved gateway of the Nishi Hongwanji temple in Kyoto, the ramma, or ventilating panels, of the principal apartments in the same temple, and three carvings, — two of elephants after designs by Kano Tan-yu, and one of a sleeping cat, — in the mortuary chapel of Ieyasu at Nikko. The notice attracted by his labours was so great that the architectural wood-carvers, whose artistic efforts had previously been limited to the execution of mechanical designs and conventional flowers, now came to be regarded as a body distinct from the carpenters to whom they had hitherto been affiliated. Hidetoshi (1536 — 1598), commonly known as the Taiko Hideyoshi — the word Taiko being a title indicative of exalted rank — has sometimes been called the Napoleon of Japan. Of low birth and so ugly as to earn the nickname of " Monkey," Hideyoshi worked his way up by sheer will, hard fighting, and far-sighted ability, to the position of Nobunaga's most trusty lieutenant ; and when that ruler died in 1582, Hideyoshi, having slain his chief enemies and captured Kyoto, became practically monarch of Japan w 7 ith the title of Regent (Kivavwaku), w r hich till then had never been accorded to any but the highest nobility. Hideyoshi carried out many w r ise measures of internal policy, such as financial reform, the improvement of the great cities of Kyoto and Osaka, and the encourage- ment of maritime trade. He was also more merciful to his foes and rivals than his predecessor Nobunaga had been. His greatest failing was the vulgar ambition of the parvenu. His dream was to conquer China and become Emperor of the whole East. As a first step towards this, he sent an army across the straits to Korea under command of the celebrated generals Kato Kiyomasa and Konishi Yukinaga — the latter a Christian, as were many of the soldiers of the expedition. Korea was ruined, and Japan nowise benefited. Hideyoshi's death resulted in the withdrawal of the Japanese troops from the peninsula, and in the speedy overthrow of his own family power which he had hoped to render hereditary. Hitomaru (flourished circa A. D. 700) w 7 as one of Japan's earliest great poets, and the rival of Akahito. His full name was Kakinomoto no Hitomaru. Iemitsu (1604-1651), the third Shogun of the Tokugawa dynasty, in- herited the administrative ability of his grandfather Ieyasu, and devoted his peaceful reign to perfecting the system of government established by 56 Introduction: — Celebrated Personages. the latter, including the elaborate system of espionage touching which early European writers on Japan have so much to say. To him is due the rule according to which all the Daimyos were obliged to reside during half the year in Yedo, and to leave their families there as hostages during the other half. It was also Iemitsu who suppressed Christianity as dangerous to the state, and closed up the country against all foreigners except the Dutch and Chinese, who were permitted to trade at Nagasaki under humiliating conditions. In fact, it was Iemitsu who consolidated what we call " Old Japan." His tomb is at Nikko near that of Ieyasu. Ieyasu (1542-1616), one of the greatest generals and altogether the greatest ruler that Japan has ever produced, was a Samurai of the pro- vince of Mikawa, and a scion of thb great family of Minamoto. His own surname was Tokugawa. Having served under both Nobunaga and the Taiko Hideyoshi, he profited by the latter's death in 1598 to make war on his infant son Hideyori, seized the great castle of Osaka, burnt the Taiko's celebrated palace of Momoyama at Fushimi, and finally, in the year 1600, defeated all his enemies at the battle of Seki-ga-hara, a small village in the province of Omi, now a station on the Tokaido Railway. Meanwhile he had, in 1590, moved his own head-quarters from Shizuoka, where they had been for many years, to Yedo, then an unimportant fish- ing-village, which he chose on account of the strategic advantages of its position. In 1603 he obtained from the faineant Court of Kyoto the title of Shogun, which was borne by his descendants during two and a half cen- turies of unbroken peace, till Commodore Perry's arrival in 1853 led to the revolution of 1868, and to the break-up of Japanese feudalism and dualism. The statecraft which caused so long a reign of peace under one dynasty to take the place of the secular struggles between petty warring chieftains, consisted principally in maintaining a balance of power whereby the rivalries of the greater Daimyos were played off against each other, and in the an- nexation to the Shdgun's own domain, or to those of his nearest relatives, of large strips of territory in all portions of the Empire. These served as coignes of vantage, whence, in those days of difficult communication, the actions of each Daimyo could more easily be controlled. Ieyasu held in his own grasp all the military resources of the country, and forced all the Daimyos to regard themselves as his feudatories. He likewise had the Court of Kyoto strictly guarded, — nominally as a protection for the sacred Mikado against rebel foes, but in reality to prevent His Majesty, who still retained the semblance of Imperial power, from endeavouring to shake off the fetters which made him a passive instrument in the Shogun's hands. Ieyasu furthermore built powerful strongholds, made new high- ways, established a system of posts, and promulgated laws, which — if we accept the theory of paternal government alike in politics and in the family— were very wise, and which were in any case far in advance of anything that Japan had known before. When the government had been established on a firm footing in 1605, Ieyasu followed the usual Japanese custom of abdicating in favour of his son . He retired to Shizuoka, and spent the evening of his life in encouraging the renaissance of Japa- nese literature which had just begun. To his munificence is owing the editio princeps of many an important work. Ieyasu was first buried at Kuno-zan, not far from Shizuoka, in a beautiful shrine on a castle-like eminence overlooking the sea. In the year 1617, his remains were re- moved to their present still grander resting-place at Nikko. The dynasty of Shogun s founded by Ieyasu is called the Tokugawa dynasty, from the surname of the family. Celebrated Personages. 57 Ishikawa Goemon (end of 16th century), the most notorious of Japanese robbers, is credited with having possessed the physical strength of thirty ordinary men. Being at last captured at the age of thirty-seven, he and his young son Ichiro were condemned to be boiled to death in a cauldron of oil, which sentence was carried out in the dry bed of the Kamogawa at Kyoto. In accordance with custom, the criminal com- posed a death-song, which ran as follows : Ishikazva ya Hama no masago wa Tsukuru to mo, To ni nusiibito no Tane iva tsukimaji. which may be rendered thus, " Though the stony-bedded rivers (ishi-fcatva, a pun on his own name) and the sand on the sea-shore come to an end, the line of thieves shall never come to an end." Iwasa Matahei (16th century) was the originator of the UJciyo-e Ryu, or "popular school" of Japanese art, which, abandoning the pre- scribed subjects and conventional routine of the classical schools, under- took to paint life as it is. Jikaku Daishi (A.D. 794-864), a celebrated Buddhist abbot. Like many others of his time and profession, he visited China in search of religious and magical lore. Jimmu Tenno, that is, the Emperor Jimmu, is accounted by the Japanese annalists the first human sovereign of their country, which had till then been ruled over by the Shinto gods. Jimmu Tenno was himself descended from the Sun-Goddess Ama-terasu, and consequently semi- divine. The orthodox account of his career is that, starting from Kyushu in the extreme West of Japan, he rowed up the Inland Sea with a band of devoted warriors, subduing the aborigines as he went along, in virtue of the commission which he had received from heaven. After much fighting in what are now the provinces of Bizen and Yamato, and many miraculous occurrences, he died at the age of one hundred and thirty- -seven, and was buried at Kashiwabara in Yamato, where his capital had been established after the conquest. The date assigned for his accession is the 11th February, 660 B.C., the anniversary of which day has been made a public holiday during the present reign, and was chosen for the promulgation of the new Constitution, evidently with the desire to strengthen the popular belief in the authenticity and continuity of Japa- nese history. Jimmu Tenno and his successors during ma.ny centuries have, however, been condemned as myths by competent European in- vestigators, though it is allowed that the Jimmu legend may possibly be an echo of some actual invasion of Central Japan by Western tribes of adventurers in very early days. Jingo Kogo, that is, the Empress Jingo, ruled over Japan, according to the native annalists, from A.D. 201 to 269, when she died at the age of one hundred ; but xiston, the greatest authority on early Japanese history, while not denying the existence of this Japanese Semiramis, relegates most of her great deeds to the realm of fable. The chief legend connected with her is that of the conquest of Korea, to which country she crossed over with a gallant fleet, aided by the fishes both great and small and by a miraculous wave, and whence she returned only after 58 Introduction : — Celebrated Personages. receiving the abject submission of the King. During _the three years of her absence in Korea, she held in her womb her son Ojin who is worship- ped as Hachiman, the God of War. Next she turned her attention east- wards, and, going in her fleet up the Inland Sea, smote the rebels of Yarnato, as Jimmu Tenno is said to have done before her. Indeed, it has been suspected that the two legends are but slightly varying versions of the same story. Jocho, the most original of Japan's mediaeval sculptors, flourished during the reign of the Emperor Go-Ichijo (A.D. 1017-1036). He carved Buddhist subjects. Josetsu (flourished about A.D. 1400), was a priest and celebrated painter. Anderson calls him the Japanese Cimabue. Kaxo, the family name of a celebrated school of painters, which originated in the 15th century and is not yet extinct. Its manner, which appears highly conventional to Europeans, is classical in the eyes of the Japanese. The greatest of these painters was Kano Alotonobu (born 1477). Other noteworthy members cf the family were K. Slioei, K. Eitoku, and K. Sanraku (16th century), K. Sansetsu, and especially K. Tan-yu. K. Naonobu, K. Yasunobu, K. Toun, and K. Tsunenobu were also dis- tinguished. All these names, from Sansetsu onwards, belong to the 17th century. The Japanese custom of adoption is the key to the apparent mystery of so many men similarly gifted arising in one family. Kato Kiyomasa was one of Hideyoshi's generals in the invasion of Korea at the end of the 16th century, and a fierce enemy of the Christians. He is one of the most popular Japanese heroes, and is worshipped — chiefly by the Nichiren sect of Buddhists — under the name of Sei Shoko. Kiyoatori (1118—1181), whom Satow calls the Warwick of Japanese history, was head of the great house of Taira during its struggles with the rival house of Minamoto, and during the brief period of triumph which preceded its final overthrow at Dan-no-ura. From the year 1156 until his death, Kiyomori was all-powerful, engrossing all the highest offices of state for his own kinsmen, and governing the Palace through his kins- women where boy Mikados succeeded each other like shadows on the throne. To suit his own convenience, he moved the capital for a time from Kyoto to Fukuwara near the site of modern K5be — an act of high- handed autocracy which was bitterly resented by the courtiers and the nobility, whose habits were interfered with and their resources taxed by the double move. While irritating the upper classes by his nepotism and over- bearing demeanour, he ground down the common people by his exactions, and endeavoured utterly to exterminate the Taira clan. The famous beauty Tokiwa, handmaiden to Yoshitomo, was forced to yield to his em- braces in order to save the life of her infant, the future hero Yoshitsune ; and every woman that pleased his fancy had to minister to his lust. His eldest son Shigemori remonstrated with him in vain. But the storm did not break in his time. He died in his bed, leaving his whole house to perish four years later in a sea of blood. Kobo Daishi (774 — 834), the most famous of all Japanese Buddhist saints, was noted equally as preacher, painter, sculptor, calligraphist, and traveller. Had his life lasted six hundred years instead of sixty, he could hardly have graven all the images, scaled all the mountain peaks, confounded all the sceptics, wrought all the miracles, and performed all the other feats with which he is popularly credited. B} r 6bu-ga-ura, near the modern temple of Kompira in Shikoku, was his birth-place. His conception was miraculous, and he came into the world with his hands Celebrated Personages. 59 KOBO DAISHI. folded as if in prayer. He entered the priesthood in A.D. 793. Various legends are told of the trials to which he was subjected by evil spirits during his novi- tiate. At Cape Muroto in Tosa, dragons and other monsters appeared out of the sea and disturbed him in his prayers. These he drove away by repeating mystic formulae called Darani, and by spitting at them the rays of the evening star which had flown from heaven into his mouth. At a temple built by him on this spot, he was constantly annoyed by hobgoblins who forced hirn to enter into conversation ; but he finally got rid of them by surrounding himself with a con- secrated enclosure into which they were unable to enter against his will. Having been sent to China as a student in 801, much as promising Japanese youths are sent to Europe and America to-day, he became the favourite disciple of the great abbot Hui-kwo (Jap. Kei-kwa), by whom he was charged to carry back to Japan the tenets of the Yoga- charya, or, as it is called in Japan, Shingon sect, which occupies itself greatly with mystic formularies, magic spells, and incantations. Kobo Daishi returned home in 806, bringing with him a large quantity of Buddhist books and devotional objects, and in 810 was appointed abbot of Toji in Kyoto. A few years later he founded the great monastery of Koya-san, where his last days were spent at the close of a life of incessant toil. It is asserted that he did not die, but merely retired into a vaulted tomb, where he still awaits the coming of Miroku, the Buddhist Messiah. Among the innumerable great deeds with which this saint is credited, is the invention of the Hiragana syllabary. It should be noted that the name Kobo Daishi (lit. the Great Teacher Spreading abroad the Law) is a posthumous title conferred on him by the Emperor Daigo in the year 921. His name while alive was Kukai. Kojima Takanoei, also called Bingo no Saburo, was a high-born warrior of the 11th century, celebrated for his romantic loyalty to the Emperor Go-Daigo. "When this ill-fated monarch was being carried off to exile by the minions of the usurping house of Hojo, the faithful young- soldier endeavoured to rescue him on the road. Having failed not onh; in this, but even in gaining access for a moment to his master's person, he hit on a method of communication characteristically esthetic and Japanese. Stealing at night into the garden of the inn where the Im- perial party had halted, he scraped bare part of the bark of a cherry-tree, and on it wrote the following line of poetry % % m % m which, being interpreted, signifies m * m m « " O Heaven ! destroy not Kosen, For he is not without a Hanrei !" the allusion being to an ancient Chinese King, who, after twenty years of warfare, was at length helped to victory by the prowess of a faithful 60 Introduction : — Celebrated Personages. vassal. When day broke, the soldiers, seeing the writing, bnt being too ignorant to decipher it, showed it to their Imperial captive, who at once understood that it referred to himself and was meant to intimate that faithful friends were at hand. The choice of a cherry-tree was not the least significant part of the deed ; for that tree is in Japan the emblem of of patriotism and loyalty. Later on, Kojima died fighting for his sover- eign, and artists still love to reproduce that scene of his life in which loyalty and delicacy were so well combined. Komachi (full name Ono no KomacJii), the most famous of Japan's many poetesses, seems to have flourished in the second half of the 9th century, and left a lasting impression on the national mind by her beauty, her talents, and the miserable old age which was the reward of her pride and frailty ; but nothing certain is known of her career. Every branch of art borrows motives from Komachi's life. " She is shown," saj 7 s Anderson, "in her days of* pride and luxury, drawiDg rain down upon the parched earth bj the numbers of her magic verse, bringing to shame the rival who sought to fasten upon her the stigma of plagiarism and falsehood ; courted by the noblest of the brilliant band that sur- rounded the throne — and again, without a step of transition, old, enfeebled, clad in unclean rags, begging her way from door to door until she died, rotted, and became the food of dogs on the highway — a moral illustration of the Buddhistic text, All is vanity, that the artist never tires of repeating, and sometimes elaborates with sickening detail." Kobin (latter half of 17th century) was a famous lacquer artist and painter. Kose no Kanaoka (second half of 9th century) was the first great Japanese painter. A number of quaint legends testify to the effect which his skill produced on the minds of his contemporaries. Kumagai Naozane, a warrior of the latter half of the 12th century, took his surname from the town of Kumagai in the province of Musashi, which he received as a fief from Yoritomo. The most striking incident in his life was his encounter with Atsumori at the battle of Ichi-no-tani not far from Kobe, in the year 1184. Atsumori was a delicate young nobleman of the Taira clan, scarcely sixteen years of age, who, when the city of Fuku- wara had been taken by the Minamoto, sought safety like the rest of his kindred in flight on board a junk, but being pursued by Kumagai Nao- zane, had to fight for his life. He succumbed to the veteran, who, tear- ing off his helmet the better to cut off his head, beheld the youthful face and was struck with pity and sympathy, his own son having fallen earlier in the day. He reflected, however, that to spare the boy's life might only cause him to fall into more ruthless hands. So partly out of compassion, and partly for the sake of his own reputation, he resolved to carry out his first purpose. Atsumori submitted to his fate with heroic courage, while Naozane, overwhelmed with bitter remorse, vowed never more to bear arms, but to forsake the world and spend the remainder of his days in praying for the soul of the fair youth whose life he had so unwillingly taken. He restored to Atsumori's father the head and the other spoils which he had won, paid after the conclusion of the war went to Kyoto, and took monastic vows in the temple of Kurodani, where numerous relics of him are shown to this day. The story has been dramatised under the title of Atsumori. Kusuxoki M asashige, also called Nanko (first half of 14th century), is celebrated for his courage and for his unswerving loyalty to the throne. Had the Emperor Go-Daigo listened to his advice, the rising power of the Celebrated Personages. 61 house of Ashikaga might have been crushed. As ifc was, Masashige was unequally pitted against a superior foe ; and when his army had been annihilated at the battle of Minato-gawa in 1336, he and a little band of personal followers committed harakiri rather than surrender. A scene which artists often represent is Masashige, about to die, presenting to his son the ancestral roll in order to stimulate him to deeds worthy of the family renown. Masakado (killed A.D. 940) was the most celebrated of Japanese rebels, and the only one who ever went so far as to arrogate to himself the title of Mikado. For details, see under Narita (Route 17), and the temple of Kanda Myojin in Tokyo. Mito Komon (1622-1700), second Prince of Mito, a near relative of the Tokugawa Shoguns, helped greatly though unconsciously to the final overthrow of their house, and of the whole feudal system a century and a half later, by means of his celebrated historical work, the Dai Nihon Shi, which first caused men to suspect that the Shoguns were usurpers, and the Mikados the only rightful rulers of Japan. He also patronised the new school of Shinto literati, whose studies led them, and finally the majority of the educated public, to endeavour to bring back the state of things supposed to have existed in pre-Buddhistic and pre- feudal days. Popular tradition ascribes to this prince many fanciful under- takings, such as the endeavour to raise the great bell from the river at Konodai, and to find the bottom of the Kaname-ishi at Kashima, which is supposed to be the pivot of the world. Murasaki Shikibu (flourished circa A.D. 1000) was a Court lad}-, and the most celebrated of Japanese romance-writers. Her chief work is the Genji Monogatari. Narihira (A.D. 825-880), the Don Juan of ancient Japan. Nitta Yoshisada, a warrior of the 14th century, famed for his courage and for his devotion to the Mikado's cause against the usurping families of Hojo and Ashikaga. An incident in his life which artists love to pourtray is that related at the end of the description of Kamakura in Route 2. Nobuznaga,* properly Ota Nohunaga (1534-15S2), was a warrior who, in the general scramble for land and power which went on in the latter half of_the 16th century, gained possession of the provinces of Suruga, Mino, Omi, Mikawa, Ise, and Echizen. Having next taken Kyoto, he built the stronghold of rsijo, and sided with Ashikaga Yoshiaki, who by his influence was made Shogun in 1558. Six years later the two quarrel- led. Nobunaga arrested and deposed Yoshiaki ; and the power of the Ashikaga family, which had lasted two hundred and thirty-eight years, came to an end. By the aid of his generals Hideyoshi and leyasu, he brought large portions of the Empire under his sway, but never obtained the title of Shogun, which custom had limited to members of the Minamoto family, whereas Nobunaga was of Taira descent. Though a great soldier, Nobunaga lacked the administrative ability to follow up and consolidate the advantages gained in war. Consequently, when he was assassinated by an offended subordinate named Akechi, his power died with him. Nobunaga was a bitter foe to Buddhism. Among his many acts of violence, was the destruction of the great monastery of Hiei-zan near Kyoto and of the Hongwanji at Osaka, on both which occasions frightful scenes of massacre ensued. On the other hand, he * This article is taken almost verbally from G-riffis's 31iJcado 1 s Empire, Chap, XXIII. * 62 Introduction : — Celebrated Personages. encouraged the Christians ; but it is not to be supposed that a man of his stamp did so out of any appreciation of their theological tenets. Nichiren was born at Kominato in the province of Awa, at the mouth of Yedo Bay, in A.D. 1222. At the age of twelve, he became an acolyte in the Shingon sect of Buddhisfcs, and was admitted to the priesthood three years later. Shortly afterwards, he adopted the name by which he is known to history. It signifies " lotus of the sun," and is derived from a drearn which came to his mother of the sun on a lotus-flower, in consequence of which she became pregnant. He acquired a thorough knowledge of the whole Buddhist canon by means of a miracle, and met in the course of his studies with words which he converted into the formula Namu Myoho Renge Kyo, " Oh, the Scripture of the Lotus of the Wonderful Law ! " — a formula which is still constantly used as an invocation by his followers, and which is to be seen carved on stones all over the country in the eccentric calligraphy (hige-daimoku) represented in the illustration. Having excited the wrath of the Regent Tokiyori by the unspar- ing manner in which he attacked other sects, he was banished to the peninsula of Izu in 1261, but par- doned soon after. Ten years later, his enemies persuaded the Regent Tokimune that Nichiren' s doctrines tended to subvert the state. He was seized and thrown into a cave with his six chief disciples, and condemned to be beheaded the same night, but when brought to the place of execu- tion, was saved by a miracle, the executioner's sword failing to act on the head of so holy a man ; and Tokimune, warned in a dream, spared his life. Nichiren was, how- ever, banished to the island of Sado in the North, but was permitted in 1274 to return to Kamakura, then the military capital of Eastern Japan. He next retired to live among the mountains of Minobu in a hut, which he quitted in order to take up his abode with the lord of the manor, Nambu Rokuro, a devotee so zealous hige-daimoku. that he bestowed on the saint and his sect forever all the lands in his possession. As crowds of disciples flocked to Nichiren for instruction in the faith, he erected a small shrine which became the nucleus of the now famous monastery of Minobu. In 1282, feeling that death was approaching, he removed from Minobu to Ikegami, near the modern city of Tokyo, and there died. His body was burnt on the spot and tbe bones were conveyed to Minobu, only a small portion be- ing retained at Ikegami as a precious relic. His zeal and his intolerance appear to have been inherited by his spiritual children, — the Nichiren- shu, or Hokke-shu, as the sect derived from him is also called, having pushed the odium theologicum to a degree otherwise rare in Japan. The chief outward and visible— or rather audible— sign of their temples is Celebrated Personages. 63 the drum, which the devotees beat for hours together to keep time to their chanting of the sacred formula Namu Myolio Benge Kyo. Nichiren's crest is the orange-blossom (tachibana). Oguei JECangwan (15th century) and his faithful wife or mistress, Terute Hime belong rather to romance than to sober history. Robbers having plotted to drug him with sake and murder him during the night, she — at that time one of the courtesans of the village, who had been invited to assist in the revels— informed him of the plot. Vaulting upon the back of a wild horse found in a thicket close by, he escaped to Fujisawa on the Tokaido, where his tomb and Terute Hime's are still shown. On another occasion, his enemies decoyed him into a poisonous bath which produced leprosj^ ; but Terute Hime wheeled him in a barrow from Xamakura all the way to the hot springs of Yunomine in Kishu, where a single week's bathing restored him to_health and strength. Ok3:o (1733 — 1795), properly called Maruyama Okyo, was the founder of the Shijo school of painters, whose watchword was fidelity to nature, though, as Anderson points out, their practice was far less radical than their theory, and did not lead them actually to reject the conventionalities of their predecessors. Okyo was specially successful in his representation of birds and fishes. Saig5, a samurai of the Satsuma clan, whose youth coincided with the closing years of the Japanese ancien regime, conspicuously dis- tinguished himself on the Imperialist side. Before the triumph of the latter, he was thrice exiled to Oshima in Loochoo, as a political suspect ; but after the revolution of 1868, to the success of which he contributed so materially as to earn the title of Commander-in-Chief of the Imperial forces, he became one of the most important personages in the state. His programme, however, was no radical one. When his colleagues in the government showed that their aim was not, as had at first been asserted, a return to the Japan of early historic days, but the complete Europeanisation of the country and the abandonment of national usages and traditions, Saigo broke with them, and retired to the city of Kagoshima in Satsuma, where he founded a military school to which all the ardent youth of Satsuma and Osumi soon began to flock. The influence of this school precipitated the inevitable conflict between the old and the new order of ideas. It broke out in 1877, and is known to history as the Satsuma Rebellion. After a struggle of several months, the Imperialists triumphed, and Saigo himself fell on the 24th September, as did the whole of the little band of five hundred that had remained faithful to him till the end. Saigo still lives in popular esteem as the most perfect example of a brave warrior and a true patriot ; and even the Imperial Court now reveres his memory, the ban of degradation having been removed in 1890, and the dead Commander-in-Chief re-instated post- humously in all his honours. The common people say that Saigo's spirit has gone to dwell in one of the brightest stars of heaven. The visit of the Czarewitch to Japan in 1891 helped to give credence to a w T ild notion according to which Saigo had, like Yoshitsune centuries before, escaped to Siberia. Saigyo Hoshi (died A.D. 1198) was an eccentric monk and famous poet of noble birth. Sesshij (1421-1507) was the greatest Japanese artist of the Chinese school of painting. Anderson says of him : " It is difficult for a European to estimate Sesshu at his true value. . . Notwithstanding the boast of the artist that the scenery of China was 64 Introduction : — Celebrated Personages. his only teacher, and the credit bestowed upon him by his admirers of having invented a new style, he has in no respect departed from the artificial rules accepted by his fellow painters. He was, however, an original and powerful artist, and his renderings of Chinese scenery bear evidences of local study that we look for in vain in the works of bis successors. The grand simplicity of his landscape compositions, their extraordinary breadth of design, the illusive suggestions of atmosphere and distance, and the all-pervading sense of poetry, demonstrate a genius that could rise above all defects of theory in the principles of his art." Shinean Shoxin (1173-1262) was the founder oi the powerful Ikko sect of Buddhists, also called Shinshu or Monto, whose splendid temples, known by the name of Hongwanji or Mouze/ci, are among^the chief sights of the greater Japanese cities. - Hongwanji means " the Monastery of the Real Vow," in allusion to the vow made by Amida that he would not accept Buddhahood unless salvation were made attain- able for all who should sincerely desire to be born into his kingdom, and signify their desire by invoking his name ten times. It is upon a passage in a Buddhist scripture where this vow is recorded that the peculiar doctrine of the sect is based, its central idea being that man is to be saved by faith in the merciful power of Amida, and not by works or vain repeti- tion of prayers. For this reason, and also because its priests are permitted to marry, this sect has sometimes been called the Protestantism of Japan. In the year 1602, political reasons caused a split in the sect, which since that time has been divided into a Western and an Eastern branch — Nishi Hongwanji and Higashi Hongivanji, — each branch owning a temple in every considerable city. Shinran Shonin was descended from the Imperial family. The abbots of the sect therefore bear the title of Monzeki, or Imperial Offspring, while the walls enclosing its temples are allowed the snji-kabe, or suji-bei, — striped plaster ornamentation, other- wise reserved for buildings inhabited by Imperial princes. During the present reign, Shinran Shonin has been honoured by the bestowal of the posthumous title of Kenshin Daishi, that is " the Great Teacher who Sees the Truth." Shotoku Taishi (572-621), the Constantine of Japanese Buddhism, was son of the Emperor Yoniei and regent under the Empress Suiko, but never himself actually ascended the throne. He founded a large number of monasteries, framed a code of laws, and is said to have introduced the use of the calendar into Japan. He is also the reputed author of numerous paintings and sculptures, which Anderson, however, inclines to consider apocryphal. Shu bun (15th century), one of the greatest Japanese painters of the Chinese school. Soga Kyodai, that is, the Soga Brethren Juro and Goio, have re- mained national heroes on account of the pious vendetta which they executed in the hunting-camp of the Shogun Yoritomo at the base of Fuji, in the year 1193, on Kudo Suketsune, the murderer of their father. Juro perished in the attempt, while Goro was captured, brought before Yoritomo, and condemned to have his head hacked ofE with a blunt sword. Together with their names_has been preserved that of Tora Gozen, a courtesan of the town of Oiso on the Tokaido, who was the younger brother's mistress, and who, no less faithful than fair, aided him in his re- venge and became a nun after his death. Sosen (17-17-1821), an artist of the Shijo school, famed for his paint- ings of monkeys. Celebrated Personages. 65 Takeda Shingen (see Rte. 26). Takenouchi no Sukuxe, the Methuselah of Japan, is said to have lived two hundred and fifty -live years (according to others, three hundred and sixty years), and to have served six successive Mikados. His birth is supposed to have taken place about 200 B.C. Tamura Maro (died A.D. 811), the bravest and most successful generalissimo (Shogim) of his time. He subdued the Amos who then inhabited the Northern portion of the Main Island almost as far South as Sendai. Toba Sojo, an abbot of the 13th century, is remembered as the origi- nator of a quaint, coarse style of picture called Toba-e. Tori Busshi (early in the 7th Century), the first great Japanese sculptor. He was of Chinese descent and carved Buddhist images. Some of his works still survive at the temple of Horyuji near Nara. Unkei, a famous mediaeval sculptor of Buddhist images. Urashima Taro, the Japanese Rip Van Winkle, is said by the national historians to have left Japan in A.D. 477, and to have returned in 825. His legend takes a hundred forms. The following is not only the simplest, but the most ancient, being translated as literally as possible from a ballad contained in the Man-yo-shu, an anthology which dates from A.D. 760. The poem itself is probably far older : — THE FISHER-BOY URASHIMA. 'Tis Spring, and the mist conies stealing O'er Suminoye's shore, And I stand by the sea-side musing On the days that are no more. I muse on the old-world story, As the boats glide to and fro, Of the fisher-boy Urashima, Who a-nshing loved to go, — How he came not back to the village Though sev'n suns had risen and set, But rowed on past th% bounds of ocean, And the Sea-God's daughter met ; How they pledged their faith to each other, And came to the Evergreen Land, And entered the Sea-God's palace So lovingly hand in hand, To dwell for aye in that country, The ocean-maiden and he, — The country where youth and beauty Abide eternally. But the foolish boy said, ' To-morrow I'll come back with thee to dwell ; But I have a word to my father, A word to my mother to tell.' 66 Introduction : — Celebrated Personages. The maiden answered, * A casket I give into thine hand ; And if that thou hopest truly To conie back to the Evergreen Land, ' Then open it not, I charge thee ! Open it not, I beseech ! ' — So the boy rowed home o'er the billows To Smninoye's beach. But where is his native hamlet ? Strange hamlets line the strand. Where is his mother's cottage ? Strange cots rise on either hand. ' What ! in three short years since I left it,' He cries in his wonder sore, 1 Has the home of my childhood vanished ? Is the bamboo fence no more ? 1 Perchance if I open the casket Which the maiden gave to me, My home and the dear old village Will come back as they used to be.' And he lifts the lid, and there rises A fleecy, silvery cloud, That floats off to the Evergreen Country — And the fisher-boy cries aloud, He waves the sleeve of his tunic, He rolls over on the ground, He dances with fury and horror, Running wildly round and round. But a sudden chill comes o'er him That bleaches his raven hair, And furrows with hoary wrinkles The form erst so ]^)ung and fair. His breath grows fainter and fainter, Till at last he sinks dead on the shore ; And I gaze on the spot when his cottage Once stood, but now stands no more. Yamato-take xo Mikoto, one of the eighty children of the Emperor Keiko, was a great hero of the pre-historic age. While yet a stripling, he was sent by his father to destroy the rebels of Western Japan. In order to accomplish this end, he borrowed the gown of his aunt who was high-priestess of Ise, and, thus disguised, made the rebel chieftains fall in love with him while carousing in the cave where they dwelt. Then suddenly drawing a sword from his bosom, he smote them to death. He next subdued the province of Izumo, and finally conquered Eastern Japan, which was at that time a barbarous waste. After many adventures both warlike and amorous, he died on the home- ward march to Yamato where the Emperor, his father, held Court. Celebrated Personages. 67 Yoritomo (1147-1199) was the founder of the Shogunate, the first Japanese Mayor of the Palace, if one may so phrase it. A scion of the great house of Minamoto, as shrewd and ambitious as he was unscrupulous and inhuman, he was left an orphan at an early age, and barely escaped death as a lad at the hands of Kiyomori, the then all-powerful Minister, who belonged to the rival Taira clan. Kiyornori's exactions having roused the indignation of the whole Empire, Yoritorno saw that the moment had come to essay the restoration of his own fortunes. All the malcontents eagerly flocked to his standard ; and first in Eastern Japan, then at Kyoto, and lastly at the great sea-fight of Dan-no-ura near Shimonoseki at the S.W. end of the Inland Sea, Yoritorno defeated the Taira and utterly exterminated them, putting even women and children to the sword. Yoritorno established his capital at Kamakura, which soon grew into a great city, thoroughly reorganised the administration by the appointment of military governors, chosen from among his own clan, to act conjointly with the civil governors who received their nominations from the Mikado, by the levy of taxes for military purposes payable into his own treasury, and by other far-sighted innovations made in the interests of a military feudalism. At last in 1192, he obtained — in other words forced — from the Court of Kyoto the title of Sei-i Tai Shogun, that is " Barbarian-subduing Generalissimo," which soon came to denote the military or actual ruler of the country, as distinguished from its theoretical head, the heaven-descended Mikado. Yoritorno, whose life had been spent fighting, died peacefully in his bed. Among the many on whom he trampled to satisfy the dictates of personal ambition, was his own brother Yoshitsune, a far nobler character. Though Yoritomo's system of govern- ment remained in vigour for well-nigh seven centuries, the sceptre dropped from his own family in the generation following his death, his sons Yoriie and Sanetomo being weaklings who both perished by assassination at an early age. Yoshitsune, (b. 1159), also called Ushiwaka, was younger half-brother to the first Shogun Yoritorno, being the son of Yoshitomo by a beautiful concubine named Tokiwa. By yielding to the wicked desires of the tyrant Kiyomori, Tokiwa obtained pardon for her son on condition that he shaved his head and became a niook. Accordingly he was placed in the Buddhist monastery of Kurama-yama near Kyoto. But theological exercises were so little to his taste that he ran away to Northern Japan in company with a friendly merchant, and at once distinguished himself by the valour with which he repelled the assaults of the brigands, slaying several with his own hand, though then himself but sixteen years of age. When Yoritorno rose in arms against the Taira clan, Yoshitsune naturally joined him, and became his greatest general. Indeed, the real guerdon belonged rightfully to the younger rather than to the elder brother. Yoritorno, far from feeling any gratitude, began to burn with jealous}' and to detest Yoshitsune as a possible rival. He even went so far as to compass his death. But Yoshitsune escaped again to Northern Japan, where, according to one account, he was discovered by spies, and killed after a desperate fight on the banks of the Koromo-gawa, his head being sent to Yoritorno at Kamakura, preserved in sake. Others say that he committed liarakiri when he saw that all was lost, having previously killed his own wife and children. A more fanciful account is that he escaped to Yezo, and then re-appeared on the mainland of Asia as Genghis Khan. This fable probably originated in an accidental similarity between the Chinese characters used to write the names of these two 68 Introduction : — Population of Chief Cities. Outline Tours. famous men. But it is a remarkable fact that to this day Yoshitsune remains an object of worship among the Ainos of Yezo. To the Japanese his name is a synonym for single-minded bravery and devotion. The traveller will often hear mentioned in connection with the name of Yoshitsune those of Benkei, his faithful retainer, and Yasuhira, the traitor suborned by Yoritomo to slay him. 28. — Population of the Chief Cities. Eukui (Echizen) . . . . 41,000 | Nagoya 179,000 Fukuoka (Chikuzen) . . 55,000 I Niigata 47,000 Gifu 31,000 ! Okayama 47,000 Hakodate 58,000 ! Osaka 484,000 Hirosaki 30,000 ' Otsu 32,000 Hiroshima 90,000 , Sakai (Izumi) 45,000 Kagoshima 56,000 Sendai 64,000 Kanazawa (Kaga) . . . . 93,000 : Shimonoseki 33,000 Kobe 143,000 , Shizuoka 38,000 Koehi 33,000 ! Takamatsu (Sanuki) . . 34,000 Kofu 33,000 : Tokushima (Awa) . . . . 60,000 Kumamoto 56,000 ' Tokyo (district of) . . . . 1,628,000 Kyoto 298,000 i Toyama (Etchu) . . . . 59,000 Maebashi 32,000 l Utsunomiya 31,000 Matsue 35,000 ! Wakayama 55,000 Matsuyama (Iyo) . . . . 34,000 Yokohama 143,000 Morioka . . 32,000 | Yokosuka 32,000 Nagasaki 60,000 I Total population of Japan on 1st Jan., 1892, was 40,718,677. 29. — Outline Toues. 1.— One Month's Tour from Yokohama: — Tokyo 3 days. Kamakura and Enoshima 1 ,, Miyanoshita 3 ,, From Miyanoshita to Nagoya by Tokaido Kailway 1 ,, Nagoya J „ Erom Nagoya to Kyoto 1 ,, Kyoto 4 „ Lake Biwa and back to_Kyoto 1 ,, Erom Kyoto to Nara, Osaka, and Kobe 3 ,, Kobe to Yokohama by steamer (by rail J day less) 1J ,,. Erom Yokohama to Nikko by rail -J ,, Nikko and Chuzenji 3J ,, Erom Nikko to Ikao via Ashio and the Watarase-gawa . . 2 „ Ikao (visit Haruna) 2 ,, From Ikao to Myogi-san via Takasaki 1 ,, Myogi-san and back to Yokohama by rail 1 ,, Spare days 2 „ Total ..31 , r With this tour may be combined the ascent of Fuji from Yokohama (see Koute 9). Outline Tours. 69 2. — One Month's Tour from Kobe: — Kobe 1 day. Osaka, Nara, Kyoto, and Lake Biwa 5 ,, Train from Kyoto to Gif u ; along the Nakasendo to Asania- yama and Karuizawa 6 Karuizawa to Ikao 1 Ikao .. .. 1 Ikao to Nikko via the Watarase-gawa 2 Nikko .. ._. 4 By rail to Tokyo J Tokyo 3 Yokohama, Kamakura, and Miyanoshita 4J Tokaido Railway to Nagoya 1 Rail to Kobe 1 Spare days 1 Total ..31 „ 3. — One Month's Tour from Nagasaki: — Nagasaki and Onsen (Unzen) 4 days. From Nagasaki to Kobe by steamer 2 Nara, Kyoto, and Lake Biwa 5 From Kyoto to Nagoya by Tokaido Railway 1 From Nagoya to Miyanoshita . . 1 Miyanoshita 3 From Miyanoshita to Kamakura and Yokohama 1 Yokohama 1 Tokyo .. ♦. 3 From Tokyo to Nikko and back 4 Steamer from Yokohama to Nagasaki 4 Spare days 2 Total .. 31 „ 4. — It frequently happens that travellers from America, en route to Europe via India, have only a fortnight to devote to Japan between the steamer that drops them at Yokohama and the next one that picks them up at Kobe. To such the following outline is suggested : — Yokohama (shopping, travelling arrangements) 2 days. Tokyo (sights and the theatre) 2 „ Tokyo to Nikko and back to Yokohama 3 ,, By Tokaido Railway to Miyanoshita, visiting Kamakura and Enoshima en route 1 ,, Miyanoshita 1 ,, Rail to Kyoto 1 „ Kyoto, Osaka, and Kobe 4 „ Total .. 14 All the above tours are practicable for ladies. Shorter tours can easily be arranged by omitting certain portions of them. 5. Yokohama to Miyanoshita, Hakone, and Atami (see Routes 6 and 7). 70 Introduction : — Outline Tours. 6. Yokohama to Nikko, the copper-mines of Ashio, down the valley of the Watarase-gawa to Omama, and back to Yokohama by train. Five days. One day extra for Koshin-zan (Routes 14 and 15). 7. Yokohama to Nikko, Chuzenji, and Yumoto ; thence over the Konsei-toge to,Maebashi, and back to Yokohama by train. One week. Two extra days to visit Ikao at end of trip (Routes 14, 16, and 12). 8. Yokohama to Tachikawa on the Hachioji Railway ; thence via Ome up the valley of the Tamagawa to Kofu. Kofu to Kajikazawa, and down the rapids of the Fujikawa (visiting Minobu) to Iwabuchi on the Tokaido Railway. One week. If Mitake be visited, one day more. All this is included in Route 26* 9. Yokohama to Ikao, 1st day ; Ikao to Kusatsu, 2nd day ; Kusatsu to Shibu, 3rd day; Shibu to Toyono and Nagano, 4th day. From Nagano to Myogi-san via Karuizawa, 5th day. Train from Matsuida to Yokohama in 5 J hrs. One day extra for ascent of Asama-yarna from Karuizawa (Routes 12, 25, 11, and 10). 10. Yokohama to Nagano by train, back to Ueda to rejoin the Naka- sendo, thence along the Nakasendo to Gifu, and by train to Kyoto. Eight or nine days (Routes 25, 35, and 34). 11. Yokohama by the Koshu Kaido or Nakasendo to Shimo-no-Suwa, and down the rapids of the Tenryu-gawa to the Tokaido-Railway. Five or six days (Routes' 26, 35, and 39). 12. Yokohama by train to Shiogama, by water to Matsushima, Ishi- nomaki, Kinkwa-zan, and Oginohama, whence steamer back to Yoko- hama. Four days. Three extra days to visit Bandai-san from Motomiya on Northern Railway. (Routes 68, 69, and 19). 13. The Shrines of Ise. . Four days from Yokohama or Kobe. (Routes 34 and 32). 14. Osaka through- Yamato to Koya-san, and back by Wakayama. Five days (Routes 38 and 42). 15. Kyoto to Tsuruga on the Sea of Japan ; overland or steamer to Fushiki, steamer to Naoetsu, rail to Tokyo. Five or six days (Routes 33, 25, and 10). 16. Tour of the Inland Sea and Shikoku. Time uncertain (Routes 50 to 55). 17. Nagasaki to the solfataras of Onsen (Unzen) and back. Three days (Route 58). 18. Nagasaki to the hot-springs of Takeo, and back via the Potteries of Arita. Three days (Route 57). 19. Rapids of the Kumagawa. Four days (Route 65). 20. From Nagasaki to XJreshino, Takeo, and Saga ; rail to Kurume ; via Yabakei VaJley to Nakatsu, Oita, .Takeda, . Sakanashi, Kumanioto ; back to Nagasaki by steamer from Misumi, 8 clays. Two extra days are required for the ascent of Aso-san (Routes 57, 59, 60, 61, and 62). 21. By steamer from Yokohama to Hakodate and Otaru; rail to Sapporo and Mororan ; steamer to Hakodate and Aomori ; back to Yoko- hama by rail, visiting Matsushima, Bandai-san, and Nikko en route. A fortnight (Routes 77, 81, 69, 19, and 14). 22. .By steamer from Hakodate up the East Coast of Yezo and to the Southern Kuriles (Route 82). Outline Tours. 71 List of "Fixed Routes of Travel." (A traveller restricting himself to one of these Routes need only mention the number in his application.) FROM YOKOHAMA : No. 1. By regular routes* to the Thirteen Provinces round Fuji and back. No. 1-A. (In the American list only). (To Nikko and vicinity, and Bandai-san and vicinity by rail; thence by regular routes to Kotsuke, Shinano, Musashi, Sag ami f Izu, Kai, Siiruga, and Totomi to Nagoya, Kyoto, and Kobe, Himeji and Oka- yama, and return, with permission to visit Nara and Ise Shrines en route. — This route may also be applied for from Kobe or Nagasaki.) No. 2. By rail to Kobe via Shizuoka, Nagoya, and Kyoto, with liberty to break the journey to visit Hakone and Nara. No. 3. To Kyoto by the Nakasendo, and thence to Nara and Kobe by regular routes. {American list includes return). No. 4. To Yokkaichi by sea, and thence by regular routes to Ise, Nara, Kyoto, and Kobe. ("And return." Amer. List.) No. 5. By rail to Sendai, and thence to Matsushirna and Oginohama (and back if necessary), with leave to break the journey to visit Bandai- san. ("And Hakodate and Nikko" Amer. List.) No. 6. By rail to Sendai and thence by regular routes to Aomori and Hakodate and back. No. 7. Hakodate, Otaru, Sapporo, and Yezo generally. FR03I KOBE : No. 8. To Himeji by rail ; thence to Yokohama by rail via Kyoto, Nagoya, and Shizuoka, with liberty to break the journey to visit Nara and Hakone. ("Also Nikko and ISC'" Amer. List.) No. 9. To Himeji by rail ; thence by regular routes to Kyoto and Nara ; thence by the Nakasendo to Tokyo ("and back." Amer. List.) with liberty to visit by regular routes the Provinces of Kotsuke, Shimotsuke, Hitachi, Shimosa, and Musashi. No. 10. By regular routes to the provinces of Settsu, Harima, Yania- shiro, Kawachi, Echizen, Omi, Izumi, Yamato, Kishu, and back. No. 11. To Nagasaki by regular routes through the Provinces of Harima, Bizen, Bitchu, Mimasaka, Bingo, Aki, Suwo, Nagato, Buzen, Chikuzen, and Hizen, and back. No. 12. By regular routes to the Provinces of Harima, Bizen, Sanuki, Awa, Kishu, Izumi, and the Island of Awaji and back. FROM NAGASAKI \ No. 13. By regular routes through the Provinces of Hizen, Chikugo, Higo, Satsuma, Osumi, Hyuga, Bungo, Buzen, Chikuzen and back. No. 14. To the Goto Islands and back. No. 15. To Shimonoseki by sea ; thence to Kobe by regular routes through the Provinces of Nagato, Suwo, Aki, Bingo, Bitchu, Mimasaka, Bizen, Harima, and back. * Officialdom lias vouchsafed no definition of this mystic term ; but in practice the regular roads mean all or any roads. 72 Introduction : — Outline Tours. No. 16. To Shimon oseki by regular routes through the Provinces of Hizeu, Chikuzen, and Buzen ; thence to Kobe by regular routes through the Provinces of Nagato, Suwo, Aki, Bingo, Bitchu, Mirnasaka, Bizen, and Harima. (" And back." Amer. List.) FE03kI HAKODATE : No. 17. Same as No. 7. No. 18. Via Mororan to Sapporo and Yezo generally. No. 19. By sea>to Aomori ; thence by regular routes to Sendai, and thence by rail to Tokyo. * SECTION 1. EASTERN JAPAN. (Routes i — 24. ' , i «■: .'^YOKOHAMA /P. Ss ^VCxAMI iiu . Handbook for Travellers JAPAN. ROUTES. ROUTE 1. Yokohama. Yokohama, the place where most visitors first touch. Japanese soil, is the largest of the Treaty Ports and practically the port of Tokyo. The landing-place {hatoba) and the custom-house (zei-kwan) are with- in 5 min. drive of the Hotels and In 10 min. of the Railway ion. Hotels.— Grand Hotel, No. 20: Hotel, No. 5-b, both on the Bund, facing the sea : Oriental Hotel, No. S7, Main -:;-, Resta u ra nts. — (En rqpean food) i-ro, in U:a-machi. Go-chome ; Edoko, in Minami Naka-dori. (Jaj - Sanomo, in Ota-machi; Fukki-ro. near the Railway Station. \ Inns. — Fukui, in Ben- ten-dori ; Takano-ya, in Honcho- dori. Banks. — Hongkong and Shanghai Bank, No. 2 : Chartered Bank of India, Australia, and China. No. 7r : >nal Bank of China. No. 61. Also Agencies of the Chartered Mer- le Bank, and of the Bank of China, Japan and the Straits. Consulates. — British, No. 172; American. 2no. 23= ; French. No. B4 : German, No. 81. Post and TeU ffice. — This, together with the Telephone 1 :.■ change, the Custom-House and the : ture Ka .:'.' . stands nc : British and American Consulates, on the space between the Z::ri ± n Settlement and the Japanese town. Steam Communication. — Japan Mail Steamship Company Nippc Yusen Kwaisha^ slose :: the Rail- way Station; Peninsular and Orien- tal. No. 15 : Messageriefi Maritime* No. 9: Xorddeurscher Lloyd. 2 : : 29: Pacific IMail, Occidental and Oriental, No. 4-a ; Canadian Pa sific No. 20C ; Northern Pacific, and '..- ■• Shire " line, Dc Iwell, C irlil] and Co.). No. 50. B : M Glen " line Jardine, IMatheson & Go." No. 1 i; Ben " line, Domes A Co.Nc : Holt's line, Butterfield and Swire No. 7 . Churches. — Christ Church (An- No. 105; Union Church (Protestant . No. 167 ; Methodist, No. 221; Roman Catholic. No. 90. Clubs. — Yokohama United Club, No. 5-a. Club Germania. No. 23£ dr. No. 61. Chess Club, No. ML 76 Route I. — Yokohama. Photographs of Japanese Scenery and Costumes. — Farsari & Co., No. 16 ; Kimbei, in Honcho-dori ; Taraa- mura, in Benten-dori ; Suzuki, near the Cricket Ground. Books and Maps relating to Japan. —Kelly and Walsh, No. 61 ; Good- enough & Co., No. 56 ; Farsari, No. 16. Foreign Stores for Japanese Works of Art. — Deakin Brothers & Co., opposite the Grand Hotel, and No. 38 ; Kuhn, No. 57 ; Arthur & Bond's Fine Art Gallery, No. 12. Japanese Curio Dealers. — Mi nod a Chojiro, in Honcho-dori, fine lac- quer, enamels, and ivories ; Inoue, 44, Honcho-dori, screens, embroid- eries, etc. ; Musashi-}-a, in Honcho- dori, jewellery, ivories, silver-ware, etc. ; Nagasaki-3-a, in Honcho-dori, jewellery, metal-work, ivories, etc. ; Matsuishi-ya, in Honcho - dori, porcelain in European shapes ; Tashiro-ya, in Benten-dori, porce- lain ; Watano, in Honcho-dori, porcelain ; Kosaka, 25, Benten-dori, paper fans ; Shamokame, 15, Hon- cho-dori, embroidery, porcelain, and enamels; Fine Art Exhibition, in Asahi-machi. Silk Stores. — Shdbei, Shieno, both in Honcho-dori ; Noboru-ya Saku- bei, in Benten-dori ; also, for cheaper articles, Yamaguchi in Ota-machi; Matsura, 52, Benten - dori ; Tanabe, Honcho-dori ; and Tsuruya, Ishi- kawa. Embroideries, Silk and Cotton Crapes, Japanese Cottons, etc. — No- zawa-ya, 30, Benten-dori, Ni-chome ; Yamagata-ya, opposite Nozawa-ya. Japanese Note-paper. — Tanikawa, in Minarni Naka-dori Itchome. Toys, etc, — Nagai, in Honcho-dori. Bamboo and Bead Blinds, Cabi- nets, etc. — Moriyasu, 62, Benten-dori Shi-chome. Florists. — Bcehmer & Co., 4, 5, and 28, Bluff. Gardeners' Association, 21, Nakamura Bluff. Japanese Theatres, etc. — Tsuta-za, in Isezaki-cho ; Minato-za, in Sumi- yoshi-cho, where there is also generally a sort of fair. Public Garden and Cricket Ground. — At the back of the Settle- ment, behind the American Consu- late ; Bluff Gardens, No. 230. Neivspapers. — " Japan Daily Ad- vertiser," " Japan Gazette," " Japan Herald," " Japan Mail," daily ; "Box of Curios," "Eastern World," weekly. HiSTOKY. — Yokohama owes its com- mercial importance to the foreigners who have settled there. It was an insignificant fishing village when Commodore Perry anchored off it in 1854, and gave American names to several points in the neighbour- hood. When it was agreed to open a Treaty Port in this part of Japan, the choice naturally fell, not on Yokohama, hut on the thriving town of Kanagawa, on the opposite side of the small bay, now partially filled in. But the Japanese Government, finding Kanagawa incon- venient because of its situation on the Tokaido, at a time when collisions be- tween foreigners and the armed retainers of the Daimyos passing to and from the capital were to be apprehended, gave facilities for leasing ground at Yokohama instead. Thither accordingly the mer- chants, anxious to open up trade, repaired in 1859. The consuls protested against the change ; but the only lasting result of their protest is the retention of the name Kanagawa in certain official documents. The superiority of the Yokohama an- chorage doubtless reconciled the foreign community to the inferior position of the place on a mud flat facing North. The greater portion of the Settlement, as it now exists, dates from after the fire of 1866 ; and the Bluff, on which most of the well-to-do residents have their dwell- I ings was first leased for building purposes in 1867. A large and rapidly growing native town has sprung up outside the foreign Settlement. The government of the Settlement, at one time in the hands of a mixed foreign municipality, is at present administered by the Prefect of Kanagawa. The last of the English soldiers, by whom foreign life and property were at one time protected, left Japan in March, 1875. Waterworks opened in 1887 supply Yokohama from the Sagami-gawa, '28 m. distant. Har- bour-works are still in progress. — On the 31st December, 1892, the foreign popula- tion of Yokohama, exclusive of Chinese, amounted to 1,588, of whom 763 British. It should be explained that al- though the streets have names, these are comparatively little used, as the numbering of the whole Settlement is continuous, irrespec- Boate 2. — Excursions from Yokohai 77 tive of street names. A similar remark applies to the Bluff. Though Yokohama boasts but few sights properly so called, the curio- hunter will here find himself in his element ; and to one newly landed the native town, with its street- stalls, its theatrical and other shows, will afford an interesting spectacle. A visit should be paid to Noge-yama, close behind the Bail way Station, for the sake of the general view of the town and har- bour. Here stand some small, but popular and representative, shrines dedicated to the Shinto god of Akiha, to Doryo, a Buddhist saint, to Fudo, the great Buddhist god whose chief shrine is at Narita (see Eoute 17), and to the Sun Goddess of Ise (see Boute 32). This last, which crowns the hill, is generally known as Daijingu. Festivals are are held at Xoge-yama on the 1st, 15th, and 28th of every month. The temple of Zotoka-in, dedicated to Yakushi Nyorai and situated close to the Grand Hotel, celebrates its festivals on the 8th and 12th of the month. Yokohama possesses a Public Hall, where theatrical and other entertainments are given, and a Bace Course. Bace meetings, often attended by : His Majesty the Mikado, are held : in spring and autumn. The race- | course overlooks Mississippi Bay, Which affords a charming objective point for a drive. Indeed, the whole | neighbourhood abounds in beautiful landscapes. EOUTE 2. . Excursions feo^i Yokohama. 1. kamakuea and the daibutsu • 2. exoshima. 3. dzushi axdho" eiuchi. 4. kakazawa. [muse]. 5. SUGITA AXD T03IIOKA. 6. YOKO- SUEA, UEAGA, AND 3IISAKI. 7. BUKENJI. 8. THE CAVES OF TO- TSUEA. 9. OYAMA 10. OISO AND KOZU. 11. EAPIDS OF THE KATS0- RA-GAWA. (All these excursions may be made without passports, except No. 11.) 1. — Kamakura is reached from Yokohama in 50 min. by the Tokaido Kailway, changing carriages at Ofuna Junction. This branch line continues on to Dzushi and Yoko- suka, being altogether 21J miles in length. Kaiiia&nra, once the populous capital of Eastern Japan, has now shrunk into a quiet sea-side village which is a favourite resort of the Yokohama residents. The Kailiin- in Hotel, or Marine Sanatorium (foreign style), situated under a pine- grove near that portion of the shore known as Yui-ga-hama, is J hr. by jinrikisha from the Station. The Japanese inn, Mitsuhashi, may also be recommended. Both provide hot and cold salt-water baths. Kamakura was the seat of govern- ment in Eastern Japan from the end of the I'-'th to the middle of the 15th century. Yoritomo, who established the Shogunate in 1192, chose this place as his capital, and here was laid the foundation of the feudal system of government which prevailed up to the year 1868. The city of Kamakura. in the time of Yoritomo's immediate successors, extended all over the plain and into the recesses of the different yatm, or dells, which branch off from it among the hils. Its population is believed to have exceeded one million in the days of its glory. Kamakura was the scene of innumerable contests between rival mili- tary factions, and of many bloody deeds. Here, on the sea-shore, were beheaded the Mongol ambassadors of Kublai Khan, {Jap. Kop-pitsu-retsu), who had impe- riously sent to demand the submission of Japan to his sway. The city was repeat- 78 Route 2. — Excursions from Yokohama. edly sacked and laid in ashes, and seems never to have fully recovered from the disasters of the year 1455. The neighbour- ing city of Odawara, which next rose into importance as the seat of the powerful Hojo family, attracted to itself large numbers of the inhabitants of Kamakura, the ruin of which town was completed by the founding of Yedo in A.D. 1603. The chief sights of Kamakura are the Temple of Hachiman, the Dai- butsu or colossal bronze Buddha, aud the great image of the goddess Kwannon. They all lie within a mile of the hotel. The Temple of Hachiman, the God of War, dating from the end of the 12th century, stands in a commanding position on a hill call- ed Tsuru-ga-oka, and is approached by a stately avenue of pine-trees leading up the whole way from the sea-shore. Though both avenue and temple have suffered from the rav- ages of time, enough still remains to remind one of the ancient glories of the place. Three stone torii lead up to the temple, which stands at the head of a broad flight of stone steps. Notice the magnificent icho tree, nearly 20 ffc. in circumference and said to be over a thousand years old, and the flowering trees scattered about the grounds. Before ascending the flight of steps, the minor shrines to the r. deserve passing notice. The nearer one, painted red and called Waka- miya, is dedicated to the Emperor Nintoku, son of the God of War. The further one, renovated in 1890, is called Shirahata Jinja and dedi- cated to Yoritomo. The style and structure are somewhat unusual, black and gold being the only colours employed, and iron being the material of the four main pillars. The interior holds a small wooden image of Yoritomo. A side path leads up hence to the main temple, which is enclosed in a square colonnade painted red. The temple, which was re-erected in 1828 after having been destroyed by fire seven years previously, is in the RyGbu Shinto style, with red pillars, | beams, and rafters, and is decorated j with small painted carvings chiefly of birds and animals. In the colon- nade are several religious palanquins (mikoshi) used on the occasion of the semi-annual festivals (loth April ! and 15th September), a wooden j image of Sumiyoshi by Unkei, and a few relics of Yoritomo. Most of the relics once preserved in the temple have been removed to the ; residence of the Chief Priest (Hako- zaki Oyatsu-kican), and are only ! exhibited at festival time. Immediately behind the temple* of Hachiman, is a small hill called Shiraliata-yama, whence Yoritomo ! is said to have often admired the prospect. The base of the hill is i enclosed and laid out as a garden. The Daibutsn, or Great Buddha, \ stands alone among Japanese works [ of art. No other gives such an kn- ! pression of majesty, or so truly sym- bolises the central idea of Bud- dhism — the intellectual calm which comes of perfected knowledge and 5 the subjugation of all passion. But to be fully appreciated, the Dai- butsu must be visited many times. There had been a temple in this place since the 8th century, but the image is of much later date, its precise history is ; involved in obscurity. Tradition, how- ; ever, says that Yoritomo, when taking part in the dedication of the Daibutsn at Nara, conceived the desire of having a ; similar object of worship at his own : capital, but died before he could put the plan into execution. One of the ladies of ! his court undertook to collect funds for the j purpose, and in the year 1252 the Kama- : kura Daibutsn was cast by Ono Gorosmon. History tells of two such images. The first, a wooden one, was designed by a priest, who collected money far and wide ' amongst all classes, and in 123S the head I of the image, 80 ft. in circumference, was in its place, while the temple in which it stood was completed in 1241 and dedicated : in 1243. This image is said to have represented Amida, and to have been j destroyed by a tempest. The second is ' spoken of as" a gilt bronze image of Shaka, I and the casting is believed to have been i begun in 1252. The present one repre- ! sents Amida, and notwithstanding the i difference of name, is probably the bronze image referred to above as dating from 1252. It was enclosed in a large building ' 50 yds. square, whose roof was supported Kamakura. 79 on sixty-three massive wooden pillars. Many of the stone bases on which they rested are still in situ. The temple build- ings were twice destroyed by tidal waves, in 1369 and 1494, after which they were not rebuilt. Since that time the image has remained exposed to the elements. The Daibutsu is best seen froni about half-way up the approach. Its dimensions are approximately as follows : — ft. or. Height 49 7 Circumference 97 2 Length of face 8 5 Width from ear to ear .... 17 9 Round white boss on fore- head 1 3 Length of eye 3 11 ., of eyebrow 4 2 „ of ear 6 6 „ of nose 3 9 Width of mouth 3 2 Height of bump of wisdom 9 Diameter of bump of wisdom 2 4 Curls (of which there are 830) : Height 9 ,, Diameter 1 Length from knee to knee 35 8 Circumference of thumb . . 3 The eyes are of pure gold, and the silver boss weighs 30 lbs. avoirdupois. The image is formed of sheets of bronze cast separately, brazed together, and finished oft on the outside with the chisel. The hollow interior of the image contains a small shrine, and a ladder- leads up into the head. The Temple of Kicannon, known as Hase no Kwannon, stands not far from the Daibutsu on an eminence commanding a beautiful view of the sea-shore towards Misaki, and over the plain of Kamakura. The great image of the Goddess of Mercy, for which this temple is celebrated, stands behind foldiDg-doors which a small fee to the attendant priest will suffice to open ; but the figure can only be indistinctly seen by the dim light of a few candles. It is of brown lacquer gilded over, and its height is 30 ft. 5£ in. The ad- mirable bronze seated figure of Dainichi Nyorai on the 1. was pre- sented by the Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa (b. 1436, d. 1490). Close to this temple is a bold cliff called Inamura-ga-saki. In 1333, when the city of Kamakura was attacked by the partisans of the Emperor Go-Daigo, part of the force led by Xitta Yoshisada advanced along the strand from the W. of this hill, but were unable to pass under the cliff owing to chevaux-de-frise being placed against it down to the water's edge, while their passage in boats was prevented by a long row of war-junks lying some 500 or 600 yards off the shore. Yoshisada therefore climbed the cliff, and after praying to the Sea- God, flung his sword into the sea, whereupon the tide miraculously re- treated, leaving a space a mile and a half wide at the foot of the cliff, along which he marched his army into Kama- kura. Lovers of early sculpture and of Japanese historical and anti- quarian lore, will find scattered over Kamakura many minor temples and other objects to arrest their attention. Amongst these the following may be enumerated : — Enndji, small and dilapidated, but containing the celebrated image of Emma-O, Regent of Hell, called Arai-no-Emma, and carved by Un- kei. Legend says that TJnkei, having died, appeared in due course before this re- doubtable deity, who thus accosted him : " Thou hast carved many images of me, but never a true one. Now that thou hast seen my face, return to earth and show me as I am." So TJnkei, coming to life again, carved this image, which is, therefore, said to be UnJcei Yomiji-gaeri no mTcu, that is, "the work of TJnkei redivivus." The image is only shown on application to the custodian. Other large images line the walls, one of Shozuka-no-Baba (see p. 43), also by CJnkei, being specially powerful. Kenchdji is situated in beautiful but now mostly deserted grounds, amidst magnificent trees, of which the rugged byakushin (Juniperus chinensis) is the most prominent species, and a favourite material with the carvers of Buddhist images. The Sammon is a grand structure. The main temple contains a large image of Jizo, and four hundred 80 Route 2. — Excursions from Yokohama, small gilt ones of the same divinity carved by Eshin. A very popular little shrine was erected in 1890 on Shdjoken, the hill behind Kenchoji, and attracts such crowds of pilgrims that a special train is run on the 17th day of the month for their benefit. The shrine is dedicated to a goblin called Hanzobo, to whom enormous quantities of small paper flags are offered up. These line both sides of the pathway that leads up the hill for a distance of 5 did. A tea- house near the shrine commands a splendid view of Fuji and the sea. The Oku-no-in at the very top overlooks a maze of small hills and valleys in the direction of Yoko- hama. The ancient Temple of Kokitonji, contains images of the Ju-ni-ten nearly life-size, and very large ones of Yakushi Nyorai, Nikko Bosatsu, and Gwakko Bosatsu, all attributed to the chisel of Unkei. The Tomb of Yoritomo is a modest little monument covered with creepers. The Kamakura-no-Miya was erected in 1869 in honour of a son of the Emperor Go-Daigo, called Oto-no-Miya, who, having failed in his attempt to overthrow the feudal government, was captured, confined in a cave, and finally assassinated A.D. 1335. The temple, which is in pure Shinto style, stands direct- ly in front of the cave. Enkakuji possesses the largest bell in Kamakura. This bell, dat- ing from A.D. 1201, is 6 in. thick, 4 ft. 7 in. in diameter, and about 8 ft. high. Myohonji, Komydji, Eishdji, and Ju-rofcu-ido, or the Sixteen Pools, in which, according to an apocryphal tradition, Kobo Daishi performed his ablutions, are also noted. 2. — Enoshima. This most picturesque spot, though called an island, is more properly a peninsula; for only at high tide is it surrounded by the sea. The prettiest way there leads by the road called Shichi-ri-ga- hama * skirting the beach from Kamakura, and through the vill. of Katase. The distance from Kama- kura is 4 m. Half-way is the Yukiai-gawa, which, though "but an in significant streamlet, is worthy of mention on account of the following incident : — When Nichiren was miraculously deliv- ered from the hands of the executioner at the neighbouring village of Koshigoe, a messenger was at once despatched to Kamakura to ask for further orders, while at the same moment a reprieve was sent from the palace of the Regent Tokiyori. The two messengers happen- ed to meet at this stream, whence the name of Yukiai-yawa, which means "the River of Meeting." A stone now marks the spot. Jinrikishas can be taken as far as Koshigoe, The heroYoshitsune alighted at the small monastery of Mampukuji in this village, when his brother Yoritomo, jealous of his exploits and popularity, denied him en- trance into the city of Kamakura. The priests still show the draft of the letter sent by Yoshitsune, denying the intrigues imputed to him and protesting in vain his loyalty. The handwriting is said to be that of his faithful henchman, Benkei. whence it is a short walk across the neck of sand joining Enoshima to the mainland. A more direct way of approach- ing Enoshima is from Fujisawa station on the Tokaido Railway, whence it is 1 ri by jinrikisha. Residents of Yokohama often go by boat down the river, which is crossed some 6 cho from the station. The road from Fujisawa branches off r. to Enoshima close to the vill. of Katase, at the entrance of which stands the temple of Ryu- kdji, founded after Nichiren's death by six of his disciples, and built on the spot where his execu- tion was to have taken place. It possesses a number of fine wood- carvings. Enoshima, being a popular holi- day resort, is full of excellent inns. The best are the Iwamoto-in and * Literally, the " seven ri shore," the ri in early times in Eastern Japan having consisted of only 6 cho. En oshima . Dzushi . Kan aza iva . 81 Ebisu-ya in the vill., and the Kin- ki-ro higher up. There is fair sea- bathing. The shops of Enoshima are full of shells, corals, and marine curiosities generally, many of which are brought from other parts of the coast for sale. The beautiful glass rope sponge (Hyalonema sieboldi), called hosugai by the Japanese, is said to be gathered from a reef deep below the surface of the sea not far from the island of Oshima, whose smoking top is visible to the S. on a clear day. From the earliest ages the island was sacred to Benten, the Buddhist Goddess of Luck. Before the existence of Enoshima, so says the ancient legend, the site of the present cave was the abode of a dragon, which used to devour the children of the village of Koshigoe. In the 6th cen- tury, on the occasion of a violent earth- quake, the goddess Benten appeared in the clouds over the spot inhabited by that monster, and the island of Enoshima suddenly rising from the waters, she descended to it, married the dragon, and put an end to his ravages. This cult has now been, exchanged for that of three Shinto goddesses, to whom several of the temples have been re-dedicated. But the spot considered most sacred of all is the large cave on the far side of the island. It is 124 yds. in depth, the height at the entrance being at least 30 ft., but diminish- ing gradually towards the interior. The rocks near the cave are frequented by divers, who for a few cents bring up shell-fish from the deep, which, however, they may be suspected of having previously concealed about their persons. Ten cho from Enoshima and 28 cho from Fujisawa station, is the sea-bathing resort of Kugenuma (Inn, Kosho-kwan). 3. — Dzushi and Horiuchi. Dzushi, on the railway, 2J miles to the S. E. of Kamakura, is the station for Horiuchi, 1J m. dis- tant, which has lately risen into favour as a sea-side resort, some of the wealthier residents of Tokyo and Yokohama having built villas there. A carriage road connects Dzushi and Horiuchi, which latter place commands a lovely view, — Euji, which rises straight from the waters of Odawara Bay, forming the central feature of the scene. The Hikage-no-Chaya inn at Horiuchi is apt to be noisy. Nearer the station, across a ferry, may be found a quieter inn, known as the Onsen, with better bathing. Half a mile beyond the Hikage-no-Chaya stretches the pretty wooded promontory of Morita Myojin, and the walk for 2 m. further along the coast to a point called Choja-saki, where there is a good inn and capital bathing, can be re- commended. 4. — Kanazawa. [Mine.] Jinrikishas may be taken the whole way ; two men required. The total distance is 4 ri 30 cho (llf m.), the road being flat for the first 6 m., as far as the hamlet of SeJci (Inn, Ishikawa-ya), and after that, very hilly. [At the hamlet of TanaTca, 10 cho beyond Seki, a road prac- ticable most of the way for jinrikishas, turns off r. to a hill called Mine, which com- mands a wonderfully extensive view. The finest prospect is towards the N., looking down on the multitude of furrowed ridges that stretch away to the mountains of Kotsuke. To the W., the sea is visible near Hira- tsuka and Oiso on the Tokaido ; beyond it is Fuji, with the Oyama and Hakone ranges. The distance from Tanaka to Mine is 28 cho, say 2 m.] On reaching the crest of the ridge, the wondrous beauty which has led the foreign residents to be- stow on this neighbourhood the name of the Plains of Heaven, suddenly reveals itself. A scene of perfect loveliness may be enjoyed from a wayside tea-house called Nokendo, which nestles under a 82 Route 2, — Excursions from Yokohama. pine-tree known as the Fude-sute- matsu, because a Japanese artist of olden times here flung away his pencil in despair. At the spectator's feet is a wide, cultivated valley, bordered by pine-clad hills and opening out to the shores of an inlet, whose still waters are partly hemmed in by small peninsulas and islets, with to the 1. the pro- montory of Kwannon-saki, and on the opposite side of Tokyo Bay the long crest of Nokogiri-yama. The most conspicuous of the islands are Natsnshima (Webster Island), with Sarushima (Perry Island) beyond it, and Eboshi-jima which is much smaller and recognisable by its triangular shape. But a mere cata- logue of names can avail nothing towards conveying an idea of the peculiar magic of a scene which might be the original that inspired the Japanese landscape-painter's art. Kanazawa (Inns, Chiyo-moto, Azuma-ya), on the shores of the Mutsura Inlet, is chiefly noted for its Hah-kci, a characteristically Japanese view from a small height just outside the village. Close to the ferry at Nojima (Inn, Nishino- ya), is a celebrated peony garden, which attracts many visitors from Tokyo during the season of flowering. Some of the plants are said to be over 300 years old. — Kanazawa may also be reached by the coast road via Tomioka on foot in 3 hrs. The way back to Yokohama can be pleasant- ly varied by taking the jinrikisha road across the neck of the little peninsula of Misaki to Dzushi station on the Yokosuka branch of the Tokaido Railway, a distance of 2£ri (6 m.). This trip may advantageously be combined with a visit to Kamakura, the station beyond Dzushi, or to Yokosuka, via Will Adams' tomb. The whole neighbourhood offers delightful walks, as paths leading to the top of every hill command ex- quisite views. 5. — Sugita and Tomioka. It is a very pleasant walk or jinrikisha ride of about 2 ri from Yokohama to Sugita (Inns, Azuma-ya and others), famous for its plum-blossoms ; and 1 ri fur- ther on to Tomioka (Inns, Kimpa- ro, Kaihin-ro), a favourite resort of the Yokohama residents, on ac- count of the good sea-bathing in Mississippi Bay. Tomioka may also be easily reached by boat from the Cutting at the back of the Settle- ment in about 40 min., the distance from the Settlement to the point where the boat is taken being ap- proximately 1 ri. A favourite afternoon's walk is to Macpherson's Hill (Mori-tsuka), on the way to Sugita. This hill com- mands a fine view of Mississippi Bay and of the country towards Fuji. 6. — Yokosuka, Uraga, and Misaki. _ Yokosuka is the terminus of the Ofuna branch line, and is reached from Yokohama in 1J hr. Steamers also ply between Yokohama and Yokosuka. The little line of railway passes through characteristically Japanese scenery — wooded hills rising up abruptly from valleys laid out in rice-fields, with here and there a cottage or a tiny shrine half-hidden in a rustic bower. The train darts in and out of short tunnels under some of these hills before reaching the sea-shore at Yokosuka. YokoSJska (Inn, Mitomi-ya; For- eign restaurant, Kaiyo-ken). which but a few years ago was a poor village, is rapidly growing in im- portance, on account of the Govern- ment Dockyard established there. Foreigners may sometimes obtain admittance by presenting their cards at the gate ; but it is safer to provide oneself with an introduction from the naval authorities. The town is prettily situated on a land- locked bay. Its chief interest for Englishmen lies in the fact that Yokosuka. Uraga. 83 here lived and died Will Adams, the first Englishman that ever landed on the shores of Japan. Will Adams, a native of Gillingliam in Kent, was chief pilot to a fleet of Dutch ships which reached the southern coast of Japan on the 19th April, A.D. 1600. Brought as a prisoner inr,o the presence of Ieyasu, Adams soon won the favour of that astute ruler, who employed him both as a shipbuilder and as a kind of diplomatic agent when other English and Dutch traders began to arrive. Adams' constantly reiterated desire to behold his native land again and the wife and child- ren whom he had left behind, was to the last frustrated by adverse circumstances. He consoled himself by taking another wife, a Japanese, with whom he lived until his death in 1620 at Hemi, a suburb of Yokosuka, where the railway station now stands. His grave and that of his Japa- nese wife are situated on the top of a hill, -J hr. walk from the railway station. The Japanese call the place Anjin-zitka, from anjin which means "pilot," that having been the appellation by which Adams was commonly known. The tombs are of stone in the ordinary Japa- nese style. Will Adams' monument is without an inscription, while that of his wife bears the posthumous title which every good Buddhist receives from the priests of the parish temple. Not only is the situation of the graves most pictur- esque, but the eminence on which they stand affords a lovely view of land and sea. On Azuma-yama, a high wooded eminence J hr. from Yokosuka by boat, stands a small phallic shrine now much decayed. Very little is known as to the origin of phallic worship in Japan, although this primitive cult appears to have been near- ly universal in the rural districts till within quite recent times, when it fell suddenly into disfavour through con- tact with European ideas. Only one point can positively be asserted, namely, that its connection is not with Buddhism, but with Shinto. The emblems reverenced are sometimes natural rocks, as at Nachi in Kishu, at Nezu Daimyojin in the dis- trict of Ogata in Shinshu, and at Inujima in JBizen. More often they are artificial. The S. side of Azuma-yama has been cut through to afford a short water passage from Yokosuka to the Torpedo Station of Nagaura. Another vantage-point just out- side the opposite or E. end of Yoko- suka, is Kome-no-yama, a cliff on which stands a temple of the Nichi- ren sect, called Ryuhonji, possessing some good carvings. The level stretches at the foot of the cliffs have recently been reclaimed from the sea. The distance from Yokosuka to Uraga is 1 ri 32 did (4J m.) along an excellent road. A little more than _ half-way lies the hamlet of Otsu where there is excellent _Japanese accommodation at the Otsu-kwan, with a good beach for bathing. UntgA (Inn, Yoshikawa) is built on both sides of a very narrow fiord- like harbour, and the two divisions thus formed are called respectively Rig as hi- Uraga and Nis hi- Uraga, i.e., East and West Uraga. They are connected by a bridge and a ferry. Iii former times all junks entering the Bay of Yedo were stopped at Uraga for inspection, and it was here that Com- modore Perry anchored on the 8th July, 1853, bearing with him the letter of Pre- sident Fillmore to the Shogun, the result of which was to open Japan to foreign in- tercourse. Uraga is noted for its manufac- ture of mizu-ame, a sweet and wholesome preparation from saJce- malt, somewhat resembling honey in taste. It is worth while devot- ing J hr. to the climb up Atago- yama, a hill at the back of Nishi- Uraga, close to the Yoshikawa inn, commanding a fine view of the town and harbour. The hills be- yond the sea to the E. are the Boshu range. Uraga is in daily steam com- munication with Tokyo. The steamers touch at Kachi}^ama, Tateyama, and other ports on the Boshu side. The passage to Tokyo occupies about 4 hours. It is a walk or jinrikisha ride of 4 ri 3 did (10 m.) to Misaki, first along the sands, and then over a cultivated upland commanding a 84 Route 2. — Excursions from Yokohama. fine view of Fuji, the Hakone and Oyama ranges, and the opposite shores of Tokyo Bay. Misaki (Inns, Kinokuni-ya, Ao- yagi) has a Marine Biological Laboratory (Misaki Rinkai Jik- kcn-jo), connected with the Science College of the Imperial University. The marine fauna of this district being particularly rich in rare forms, dredging has produced re- sults highly interesting to the zoologist. A lighthouse stands on the island of Jogashima, 15 cho from the mainland, with which it is connected by ferry. One may complete the tour of the Sagami Peninsula, at the ex- tremity of which Misaki stands, by a pleasant walk of about 7 ri (17 m.) along the coast to Dzushi. 7. — Bukenji. This temple of the Nichiren sect, about J hr. walk from the Kana- gawa station, is a favourite resort of picnic parties from Yokohama. From the top of the hill there is a fine view towards Fuji and Oyama. On the way there, the (clearly apocryphal) grave of Urashima, the Japanese Rip Van Winkle is pass- ed (see p. 65). 8. — The Caves of Totsuka. (Taya no Ana.) Though known to foreigners as the Caves of Totsuka, these caves are really nearer to Ofuna, the next station beyond Totsuka on the Tokaido Railway, 40 min. run from Yokohama. They lie at a distance of 12 or 15 cho from Ofuna station, but nearly 1J ri from Totsuka station. Whichever station one decides to alight at, the trip on to the caves can be done by jinrikisha, and lies through pretty scenery. The caves are well worth a visit ; but as they are apt to be wet, it is advisable to wear old clothes for the occasion. The best time to choose is the spring, as the cherry-trees too will then be seen to advantage. Candles are provided at a house near the entrance. A local guide will point out the Buddhist carvings with which the walls and ceilings are adorned. These caves, with their carvings, are a monument of modern Buddhist piety. Existing in embryo since the Middle Ages (tradition asserts them to have been em- ployed for the concealment both of troops and of treasure in the 14th century), they have only been excavated to their present extent by an old man still living — one Sato Shichizaemon, also known as Kino- ue-no-Inkyo — whose family have for generations been rich peasants in this locality. In the year 1851, this man was urged in a dream to devote his life to making these caves into an imperishable shrine to various Buddhist divinities, and especially to the goddess Benten. This he accordingly did and still continues to do, employing his own money for the enterprise and local talent for the carvings. Among the subjects pourtrayed may be distinguished angels, dra- gons, lions, birds both natural and mythical, the Twelve Signs of the Zodiac, the Eighteen Rakan, the Thirty-Three Kwannon of the dis- trict of Chichibu, and other Bud- dhas innumerable. To explore the caves properly takes about 1 hr. The rock being quite soft, it may be feared that this strange monument will not prove as lasting as old Mr. Sato piously anticipates. 9. — Oyama. This celebrated mountain, 4,150 ft. high, is most easily reached from Yokohama by alighting at Hiratsuka station on the Tokaido Railway, a run of a little over 1 hr.; thence by jinrikisha to the vill. of Oyama on the lower slope, Sh ri (9 J m.) distant. It is a favourite goal of pilgrims, who continue to be attracted to its shrine, although the old Buddhist objects of worship have here, as in so many other parts of the country, been replaced by comparatively obscure Shinto deities. Indeed, according to Satow, it is un- certain who these gods are ; but the best authority asserts that the chief deity is Oyama. Oiso. The Katsura-gawa. 85 Iwanaga-hime, sister to the goddess of Mount Fuji. The people of the neigh- bouring country-side often call the moun- tain by the name of Sekison-mn. Yet -another name is Afari-yama. Jinrikishas are left at the vill. of Koyasu {Inn, Kami-ya), along street of steps, which at its upper end changes its name to Oyaina {Inns, Koma-ya, with a curious garden ; Izu-ya). Such of the inhabitants as do not keep houses of entertain- ment for the pilgrims who flock here during the month of June, busy themselves with the manufacture of rosaries, toys, and domestic utensils. The traveller will notice that the posts of two shrines in the village .are so much cut away as scarcely any longer to support the roof, — a re- sult of the visit of many devotees who believe that the chips act as charms. The ascent and descent of the mountain take from 4 J to 5 hrs., but are far more fatiguing than most climbs of the same length, owing to the multitude of steps. A little way bej^ond the inns, a stream rushes out of a hole in a rocky wall some 20 ft. high, and falls into a pool, in which it is con- sidered highly meritorious to bathe as long as the cold can be endured. Ten cho further up, the entrance to the sacred domain is indicated by a torii perched on the top of a flight of steps. Here the traveller has to choose between the Otoko- zaka (man's ascent), and Onna- zaka (woman's ascent), the former a continuous series of steep flights of high steps, the latter longer but less fatiguing. Both paths unite higher up. The prospect from this latter point includes the plains of Sagami and Musashi, with the River Banyu, Gapes Misaki and Sunosaki at the entrance of Tokyo Bay, the sea, and the mountains of Kazusa. Some flights of steps lead up to the main temple, whence it is a climb of 28 cho to the summit, which com- mands a view of Fuji, the wooded top of Tanzawa, the mountains of Jtfikko, Enoshima, etc. {Tanzawa, whose name occurs se- veral times in this volume^ is a small range situated close to Oyama on the West. It includes Sobutsu- yama, Tanzawa proper, and Bodai- yama, but offers little interest). 10. — Oiso and Kozu. Oiso is \\ hr. from Yokohama by the Tokaido Railway. An enjoyable day may here be spent loitering on the beautiful beach and bathing in the sea. There is a lovely view : — to the r., Fuji, the Hakone range, and the peninsula of Izu ; ahead, Vries Island; to the 1., the pro- montory of Misaki with the islet of Enoshima. The *Toryo-kwan at Oiso is an excellent inn in Japanese style, at which some simple Euro- pean dishes may be obtained, and where there is a resident doctor. Oiso, though apparently so insignifi- cant a place, boasts considerable antiquity. Mention of it occurs in the story of the Soga Brethren's Revenge, in the 12th- century (see p. 64). Kozu {Inn, Kozu-kwan), the sta- tion beyond Oiso, is another sea-side village, having much the same view, and well-protected from cold winter winds — an advantage to which the groves of orange-trees covering all the surrounding slopes bear witness. 11. -The Rapids of the Katsura-gawa. A pleasant trip, combining varied and picturesque scenery with a dash of excitement, may be made by descending the Katsura-gawa (also called Sagami-gawa and Banyu lower down) from Yose on the Ko- shu Kaido (see Rte. 26) to Atsugi near Hiratsuka Station on the To- kaido. The best plan is to take train to Hachioji, which will en- able one to be at Yose {Inn, Kado-ya) in time for dinner, that village being reached by basha from Hachioji in about 3 hrs. A boat should at once be ordered for the next morn- ing, the cost ranging from $3. The first portion of the journey is Route 5. — Yokohama to Tokyo by Rail. very pretty, as the river runs between precipitous rocky bluffs covered with a variety of trees, the azalea being conspicuous in spring and the maple in autumn. Some distance down, the pumping station of the water-works which supply Yokohama is seen on the 1. bank, where one may land to inspect the machinery. At the hamlet of Oi, 2-J hrs. from Yose, the best part of the journey comes to an end. The rest occupies about 3 hrs., the river having entered the plain long before we arrive at Atsugi. It is possible to go all the way to Hiratsuka by boat in about the same time(ljhr.), as the distance can be done by jinrikisha ; but the road is generally preferred. EOUTE 3. Yokohama to Tokyo by Bail. which are used in writing the name, the signification of which is "Eastern Capital," given in contradistinction to Saikyo, H JEj>, or "Western Capital," ap- plied at the same time to Kyoto. In November of the same year the Mikado visited Tokyo for the first time, and it became the recognised seat of Govern- ment on 26th March, 1869. A great change has since taken place in the outward appearance of the city . Most of the yashiki, or mansions of the territorial nobility, have been pulled down to make room for new buildings better adapted to modern needs. At the same time, the disappearance of the two-sworded men, the supersession of the palanquin {Jcago) by the jinrikisha, the very general adop- tion of foreign dress, and the European style of dressing the hair which is now almost universal among the men, have robbed the streets of the picturesqueness formerly so attractive to the foreign visi- tor. The construction of buildings in European style dates from about 1872. Tokyo was thrown open to foreign travel in 1869, but not to foreign residence. Tsukiji, the foreign concession (Kyoryu- chi),^ is still the only quarter in which foreigners can lease land. The city is divided for administrative purposes into fifteen districts {Ku , viz: — 1, Koji-machi. 2, Kanda. 3, Nihon-bashi. 4, Kyo-bashi. 5, Shiba. 6, Azabu. 7, Aka- saka, 8, Yotsuya. 9,Ushigome. 10, Koishi- kawa. H,Hongo. 12, Shitaya. 13, Asaku- sa. 14, Honjo. 15, Fukagawa. The princi- pal suburbs are Shinasrawa S., on the Tokaido; Naito Shinjiku W„ on the Chichibu road; Itabashi N W., on the Nakasendo; and Senji N. E., on the Oshu Kaido. Tokyo is popularly estimat- ed to cover an area of four ri in every direction, in other words, a hundred square miles. The population is officially stated to be, in round numbers, 1,628.001), but this includes the whole metropolitan district {Tokyo Fn). The city proper has under a million. Tokyo was connected by railway with Yokohama in the autumn of 1872 ; horse tramways were laid along the main thoroughfares in 1882 ; the first electric lighting company w r as formed in 1885, and a telephone exchange was opened in 1890. In the same year, a short electrical railway was laid within the grounds of the IJeno Park, 'ihree great Industrial Exhibitions have been held in Tokyo, the first in 1877, and the last in 1890. The houses of the Imperial Diet, inaugurated in November, 1890, "were burnt down two months later but rebuilt in time for the assembling of the Diet in November, 1881. A plan of city improve- ment has recently been adopted, in consequence of which the narrower streets of any district burnt down are widened, 92 Boute 4. — Tokyo. and better sanitary arrangements intro- duced. Owing to the shape and the vast extent of the city, it is impossible to combine all the chief sights in a single round. The best plan is to take them in groups, according to the direction in which they lie. The following description proceeds on this principle. 1.— The Kwankoba. Shiba Park. Temples and Tombs of the Sho- guns. Zempukuji. The Forty- seven Ronins. Nyoraiji. Ata- GO-YAMA. From the Shimbashi Railway terminus, a long narrow street, called HiJcage-cho at the beginning and Shimmei-mae at the end, leads to Shiba Park, and is particularly well worth strolling along for the sake of the shops. Nowhere can one more easily pick up the thou- sand and one little articles that are in daily use among the people. Passing through the Daimon or Great Gate, we turn through the park r. to the Kivankdba, the best bazaar in Tokyo, where everything is sold at fixed prices. If the trav- eller comes straight from the Imperial Hotel, he will enter Shiba Park by the N. gate (Onari-Mon) and have the Kwankoba on his 1. Shiba Park (S'hiba Kbsnehi) formed, till 1877, the grounds of the great Buddhist temple of Zojoji, the head-quarters in this city of the Jodo sect. Here are still preserved the Mortuary Temples ( Go Hei- ya) of several of the Tokugawa Shoguns, Ieyasu, the founder of that dynasty and of Yedo, having taken Zojoji under his special protection, and chosen it as the temple where the funeral tablets (iliai) of himself and his descendants should be preserved. The monastery had been originally founded in 1393, but was re- moved io 1596 to the present site. The partial transfer of the temple to the Shin- toists, in 1873, naturally led to friction between them and the Buddhists, r.he gravest consequence of which was the destruction by fire of the magnificent main building on the 1st January, 1874. It has lately been replaced by a new build- ing, smaller and much less beautiful. Only the large gate (summon) remains just as it was built in 1623. This temple, which is used for popular worship, must not be mistaken for one of the Mortuary- Temples. The following is a list of the Tokugawa Shoguns. Those whose names are marked with an asterisk are buried at Ueno, at the opposite end of Tokyo ; those whose names have a dagger prefixed lie at Nikko, 100 miles to the N. of Tokyo, and the others at Shiba. PERSONAL NAMK. POSTHUMOUS TITLE. DIED. A.D. 1. fleyasu Toshogu 1616 2. Hidetada Taitokuin 1632 3. flemitsu Taiyuin 1651 4. *Ietsuna Genyuin 1680 5. *Tsunayoshi ....loken-in 1709 6. lenobu Bunshoin 1713 7. letsugu Yushoin 1716 8. *Yoshimune ...Yutokuin 1751 9. Ieshige Jun shin-in 1761 10. *Ieharu Shimmeiin 1786 11. *Ienari BunKyoin 1841 12. leyoshi Shintokuin 1853 13. *Iesada Onkyoin 1858 14. Iemochi Shotokuin 1866 15. Yoshinobu (usually called Kei- ki), abdicated, and is still living at Shizuoka in Suruga. The Sliifoa Temples, which count among the chief marvels of Japa- nese art, should, if possible, be visited on the forenoou of a fine day. Otherwise their situation, and the black bearding which has been put up to ward off the attacks of the weather, will interfere with a full enjoyment of their minutely elaborate decorations. They may best be taken in the following order. Persons pressed for time might limit themselves to an inspection of the temple and. tomb (Octagonal Shrine) of the 2nd Shogun only (see p. 97). The entrance to the Mortuary Chapels of letsugu and Ieshige, the 7th and 9th Shoguns, is immediately opposite the Kwan- koba. A highly ornamented gate called the Ni-Ten Mon, or Gate of the Two Deva Kings, leads into a court containing numerous stone lanterns offered by Daimyos as a mark of respect to the memory of their deceased lord and master, the Shogun. At the opposite end of the court is the Clioka-gaJcu Mon, or Gate of the Imperial Tablet, so called from a tablet hung over the Shiba I'emples. 93 lintel, containing in gold letters the posthumous name of the 7th Shogun in the fac-simile of the hand- writ- ing of the Mikado known to history as Naka-no-Mikado-no-In (d. 1737). This gate is remarkable for its pillars with dragons twisted round them, originally gilt over a coating of red oxide of iron. Passing through this gate, we enter an inner court lined with bronze lanterns, two hundred and twelve in all, dating some from A.D. 1716, some from 1761, also the gift of Daimyos, and having r. a belfry and 1. a cistern for holy water. Hence through a third gate called the O Kara Mon, or Chinese Gate, on either side of which stretches a gallery with beautifully painted carvings of flowers and birds in the panels. Observe the angel on the ceiling, the work of Kano Ryosetsu. A short colonnade of black pillars edged with gold leads to the portico of the temple, where, among other marvels of carving, are two dragons, called " the Ascending and Descend- ing Dragons " (Nobori-ryu and Kudari-ryu), serving as beams to connect the temple with two pillars outside. Up to this point the public has free admittance. Those desirous of seeing the interior of the temple, together with the tombs, must apply to the custodian, and pay him on departing a fee of 20 cents per head. Boots must of course be removed before entering. These observations hold good at all the other Mortuary Temples. The visitor is led directly into the sanctum containing the altar. And here be it observed that each of these Mortuary Temples consists of three parts, — an outer oratory (haiden), a connecting gal- lery or corridor (ai-no-ma), and an inner sanctum (honden). In each of these one finds oneself in a blaze of gold, colours, and elaborate ara- besques, which, especially if the day be fine, quite dazzle the eye by their brilliancy. In feudal times, when the Shogun came to worship the spirits of his ancestors, he alone ascended to the sanctum, the greater Daimyos ranged themselves next to him in the corridor below, and the lesser nobility occupied the oratory. The altar of this temple is separat- ed from the corridor by one of those bamboo blinds bound with silk, which, together with a peculiar Kind of banner, temper the brilliancy of the other decorations. The sanctum contains three double-roofed shrines of the most gorgeous gold lacquer, picked out with body-colour below the eaves, and held together by costly and elaborate metal-work. That to the r. contains a wooden image of the father of the 6th Shogun, that in the middle an im- age of the 7th Shogun, and that to the 1. one of the 9th Shogun, together with the funeral tablets of each. The images, which are con- sidered sacred because presented by Mikados, are never shown. On either side of each shrine stand wooden statuettes of the Shi Tennd, who guard the world against the attacks of demons. In front are Kwannon and Benten. The wall at the back is gilt, while the altar and two tables in front are of splendid red lacquer. In innume- rable places may be seen the three- leaved Asarum or Kamo-aoi, which is the crest of the Tokugawa family, and the lotus, the Buddhist emblem of purity. The altar is protected at night by massive gilt gates orna- mented with the family crest and conventional flowers. Descending into the corridor, and noticing as we pass the gorgeous panelling of the ceiling, we reach the oratory, where the decorations are on a similar scale of magnificence. Ob- serve the conventional paintings of lions on the wall. Under the baldachin sits on festival days (12th and 13th of each month, when visi- tors are not admitted) the abbot of Zojoji, while the priests are ranged around at small lacquer tables. The lacquer boxes on the latter Shiba Temples. 95 contain scrolls of the Buddhist sutras. As the guide leads the way from the temple to the tombs, observe on the eaves the carvings of musical instruments, lions, dragons, etc. Observe, too, the carvings of unicorns (Jcirin) on the Oshi-kiri Mon, or Dividing Gate, which is now passed through. Although the carving is open-work, the dragons appear quite different according to the side from which they are view- ed. Thence, through a noble court with more bronze lanterns, to a stone staircase which leads up to the site to the Tombs, — that of the 7th Shogun to the 1., that of the 9th Shogun to the r. Below each tomb is a highly decorated oratory. The tombs are of stone, in the shape called koto (treasure shrine), which somewhat resembles a pagoda. They stand on an octagonal granite base, with a stone balustrade. Their simplicity contrasts strongly with the lavish magnificence of all that goes before. As Mitford says in his Tales of Old Japan, " the sermon may have been preached by design, or it may have been by accident, but the lesson is there." The pattern on the black copper facing round the wall enclosing the tomb, is intended to represent the waves of the sea. The body is said to be buried at a depth of 20 ft., and to have been coated with ver- milion and charcoal powder to prevent decay. The tomb of the 9th Shogun is a replica of that of the 7th. On leaving this place, we pass the oratory of the 7th Shogun, and notice the exquisite carvings in high relief of peacocks on the panels of the gate. Leaving this temple by the Cho- Icu-galcii Mon, and turning r. through rows of stone lanterns, we soon reach r. another splendidly carved gate, which gives access to the temple and tombs of the 6th, 12th, and 14th Shoguns. In arrange- ment, the temple closely resembles the one we have just left ; but the gilt is fresher, the carvings truer to nature, and the general impression, more magnificent, the result per- haps of the interest taken by the 6th Shogun in the preparation of his own last resting-place. The flowers and birds in the spaces between the cornice and the lintel of the oratory are perfect, both in chiselling and in delicacy of colour. The coffered ceiling is a master- piece ; and the vista of the altar, as one stands under the baldachin, reveals an indescribable glory of blended gold and colours. The order of the shrines on the altar is, from r. to 1., that of the 12th, 6th, and 14th Shoguns, the shrine of the last containing also the funeral tablet of his consort. From the Mortuary Temple, a flight of steps at the back leads up to the tombs of these three Shoguns and of the consort of the 14th, who was aunt to the present Mikado, and after the death of her husband bore the title of Sei-kwan-In-no-Miya. Her obsequies, in 1877, were the last performed within these precincts. Each tomb has a small oratory at- Index to Plan of Shiba Temples. 1. Ni-Ten Mon. 2. Temple of 7th and 9th Shoguns. 3. Tombs of 7th and 9th Shoguns. 4. Temple of 6th, 12th and 14th Sho- guns. 5. Tombs of 6th, 12th and 14th Sho- guns. 6. Great Gate (Sammon). 7. Shrine of Five Hundred Rakan. 8. Priests' Apartments. 9. Zojoji. 10. Gokoku-den. 11. Ten-ei-in. 12. Temple of 2nd Shogun. 13. Octagonal Hall (HakkaJcu-dd). 14. Ankoku-den (Toshogu). 15. Maruyama. 16. Pagoda. 17. Shrine of Benten. 18. Koyo-kwan (Maple Club). 96 Route 4. — Tokyo. tached. The fine bronze gate of the enclosure of No. 6, which is the first tomb reached, is said to be the work of Korean artificers; but the design was probably furnished by a Japanese draughtsman. The dragons in low relief on the r. and 1., both inside and out, are specially worthy of attention. Next to it is the tomb of the 12th Shogun, and beyond it again those of the 14th and his consort. The tomb of this princess is of bronze and marked by the Imperial crest, the sixteen-petalled chrysanthemum. Quitting the grounds of this Mortuary Temple by a small side door to the r., we turn down 1. to the main road, and enter the grounds of the Monastery of Zojoji by the Great Gate (Sammon), which is the oldest (271 years) of all the tem- ple buildings, it having escaped the great fire of 1874. The upper storey, which is reached by an extremely steep staircase, contains large images of the Sixteen Rakan, coloured and seated in an artificial rockwork. In the middle is Shaka, finely gilt. These can generally be seen only on application to the priests. To the r. is a small shrine dedicated to the Five Hundred Rattan, having in front of it a stone with the im- print of Buddha's feet, which are of phenomenal size. The grand bell, also on the r., was saved from the fire, and only suspended again in 1892. On the 1. are the priests' apartments (Hqjo) and temple offices (Jimusho). In front is the main temple of Zojoji, re- stored outwardly in the plainest style, but spacious within. The large gilt image of Amida enthroned on the altar is from the chisel of the famous Buddhist abbot and artist Eshin. The temple possesses many objects of artistic and his- torical interest, but they are only occasionally displayed. The little temple at the back of Zojoji, in the same brilliant style of decoration as the Mortuary Temple, is called Gokoku-den. It contains the Kuro-Honzon, or Black Image, — a statuette of Amida by Eshin, noteworthy on account of the veneration in which it was held by Ieyasu, who used to carry it about with him in his cam- paigns, and ascribed his victories to- its influence. Admittance to the Gokoku-den is gained through the priests' house to the 1. The Black Image, which is not shown save on great occasions, is enclosed in a handsome gold reliquary. Another reliquary contains small marble images of the Sixteen Rakan. Notice the curious plate-shaped ornaments above the pillars in front of the altar, with the Buddhist gods Shaka, Monju, and Fugen, and attendant animals in high relief. The bold paintings of hawks round the walls recall leyasu's fondness for hawking. The fine bronze image of Shaka outside dates from the year 1763. Such unprotected statues are called in Japanese by the rather irreverent name of Wet Saints (nure-botohe) . The thin sticks inscribed with Sanskrit characters which stand behind it, are sotoba fsee p. 83). Coming down from Gokoku-den, and leaving the Zojoji enclosure by an opening to the r., we next reach the Mortuary Temple (Ten-ei-in) at- tached to the tombs of the consorts of the 2nd, 6th, 11th, and 12th Shoguns. Admittance is by the priests' house to the 1. Though the oratory is plainer than those already described, the altar is by no means less splendid. Gilded gates, gilded panelling, huge gilded pillars, — everything sparkles with gold, while the shrines on the altar are the most magnificent specimens extant of a peculiar kind of lacquer adorn- ed with metal-work. Their order is, from r. to 1., the consorts of the 12th, 6th, 2nd, and 11th Shoguns, while in the extreme 1. corner is that of the concubine of the 5th. The coffered ceiling, decorated with the phoenix in various colours, is specially admired. Shiba Temples. 97 From this temple, we pass into the court of that attached to the tomb of the 2nd Shogun, — entrance through the priests' house to the r. The sanctum is a grand ex- ample of Japanese religious ar- chitecture. Two huge gilded pillars called daijin-bashira, r. and 1. of the altar, support the lofty vaulted roof, curiously constructed of a net- work of beams. The upper part of the walls is decorated with large carved medallions of birds in high relief, richly painted and gilt. The shrine is of fine gold lacquer, over two and a half centuries old, and the tables in front deserve inspection. The bronze incense-burner in the form of a lion dates from 1635. Ieyasu's war-drum rests on a large ornamental stand. The coffers in the ceilings are filled with fretwork over lacquer. A short and pretty walk through the wood at the back leads to the Hakkaku-do, or Octagonal Hall, containing the tomb of the 2nd Shogun, which is the largest speci- men of gold lacquer in the w T orld and one of the most magnificent. Parts of it are inlaid with enamel and crystals. The scenes on the upper half represent the "Eight Views" of Siao-Siang in China and of Lake Biwa in Japan, while the lower half is adorned with the lion and peony, the king of beasts and the king of flowers. The base is of stone shaped like a lotus-flower. The shrine contains only an effigy of the Shogun and his funeral tablet, the actual body being be- neath the pavement. The interior walls of the hall are of lacquer gild- ed over. Eight pillars covered with gilt copper plates support the roof. Outside this building are two curiously carved stones dating from 1644. The subject of one is " Shaka's Entry into Nirvana," and of the other the " Five-and-Twenty Bosatsu " coming with Amida to welcome the departed soul. The oratory in front of the Octagonal Hall contains no- thing worthy of notice. Descending again to the Mortuary Temple, and passing through its two gates, the visitor turns sharp to the r. through a third gate, and follows a stone walk lined with cherry-trees to a torii, standing in front of the temple of Ankoku-den. Here, on the 17th of every month, a popular festival is held in honour of Ieyasu, who is worshipped as a Shinto deity under the name of Tdshogu. Constructed when Bud- dhism was dominant, this temple is architecturally as highly orna- mented as the rest, the present in- fluence of the Shinto cult being indicated only by the paper symbols (gohei) in the oratory, which also contains a large bronze mirror and two gilt ama-inu. The sanctum (admittance through the shamusho, or temple office, to the r.) stands behind, in a separate enclosure. The coffered ceiling is very fine, as are the hawks and birds of paradise on a gold ground in the panels round the interior. Particularly ex- cellent is a painting by Kano Hogen at the back of the altar, represent- ing Shaka attended by Monju and Fugen. The shrine is about 4 ft. high, with an elaborate cornice of three rows of brackets ; and its walls are of splendid gold lacquer with raised designs. In front, on the door-panels, are eight small landscapes, with dragons de- scending through the clouds on either hand. At the sides are boldly designed groups of the pine and bamboo. Inside is a life-like wooden effigy of Ieyasu, which can be seen only on the 17th day of the month. The big wooden building in European style, nearly opposite the entrance to Ankoku-den, is called Yayoi-sha, and is used for holding meetings of various kinds. A visit to Shiba may be termi- nated by walking up Maruyama, the little hill at the back, which commands a pretty view of the bay. Close to the pagoda, which is not open to the public, stands a 98 Route 4. — Tokyo. monument erected in 1890 to the memory of Ino Chukei, the father of Japanese cartography, who flour- ished in the 18th century. The mound on which, this monument stands has recently heen discovered by Prof. Tsuboi to be an artificial tumulus (tmlca) of the gourd-shape used for Im- perial interments over a thousand years ago; and there are two smaller tumuli close Ivy. The larger was probably the burial-place of a Priuce, as a branch of the reigning family settled in Eastern Japan in very early times. Thence one descends to the little Temple of Benten, picturesquely situated on an islet in a lake over- grown with lotuses. Further back in the wood stands the Koyo-kwan, or Maple Club, where excellent dinners and beautiful dances in native style are given. Shiba is particularly lovely in early April, when the cherry-trees are in blossom. About 1 in. from the Shiba tem- ples, in the direction of Shinagawa, stands the Buddhist temple of Sengakuji, where the Forty-seven Ron Ins ( Shi-ju-shichi Shi) lie buried. For their dramatic story, see Things Japanese, p. 126. A more detailed ac- count is given in Mitford's Tales of Old Japan. Just within the gate is a two- storied building called Kanranjo, where swords, armour, and other relics of these heroes are shown on payment of a small fee. The well (Kubi-arai ido), where the Ronins washed the head of the foe on whom they had taken ven- geance, still exists by the side of the path leading to the tombs, which are ranged round the sides of a small square court. That in the further corner is the grave of Oishi Kuranosuke, the leader of the faithful band ; and the monument next to his, on the other side of the stone fence, marks the grave of the lord for whose sake he and his comrades sacrificed their lives. The popular reverence for these heroes is attested by the incense perpetual- ly kept burning before Oishi's grave, and by the visiting cards constantly left there. Painted statuettes of the Ronins are exhibited in a building below. A little nearer Shinagawa stands Nyoraiji, a Buddhist temple dedi- cated to the Five Buddhas of Wisdom, whose gigantic images, carved in A.D. 1635, are here en- shrined. On the way back, one may obtain a good view of the town by going up Atago-yama, a small hill a little to the N. of Shiba Park, named after the higher Mount Atago at Kyoto, Atago is properly the name of a divinity; and the wide-spread use of it— for there are Atago-yamas all over Japan — is at- tribut.'.ble to the fact that the god in question specially protects towns against fire. He is an avatar of the creatress Izanami and of her last-born child Ho- musubi (also called Kagutsuchi), the God of Fire, whose birth caused her death. The connection between Atago and fire is thus made clear. Atago-yama, like many other such places in Japan, has two flights of steps leading up it, one of which, called " the men's staircase, " is straight and steep, while the other, or " women's staircase," is circuitous but less fatiguing. A tower has been erected on Atago- yama, which visitors pay a trifling fee to ascend. The view includes Fuji, the Hakone range, Oyama, Mitake, Mount Tsukuba, and the provinces beyond Tokyo Bay with Kano-zan and Nokogiri-yama. 2. — Akasaka and Azabu. Akasaka and Azaftn are the highest and healthiest parts of Tokyo, but contain very little to interest the tourist. In a part of Akasaka called Aoyama, is situated the palace occupied for many years by the Mikado while the present palace was building, and now by the Empress Dowager and the Grown Prince. It is not open to the public; but the elite of Tokyo society is invited there once yearly Akasaka. Azabn. Kojimachi. 99 to a garden party in November, given on the occasion of what is perhaps the most wonderful chrysanthe- mum show in the world. Closely adjoining it, is an immense Parade Ground (Rempei-ba), where the great annual review on the Mi- kado's birthday (3rd November) is held. A little further to the S. is the Aoyama Cemetery, part of which has been set apart for the interment of foreigners. Zempukuji, a temple of the Monto sect, dates from A.D. 1232, and is somewhat striking. The main hall of the temple is 96 ft. square. The pillars supporting the roof are massive and unadorned, save by a few touches of white paint on the capitals, in accordance with the usual practice of the sect. The screen dividing the nave from the chancel, as also the altar itself, are good specimens of florid ornamenta- tion in gold and colours. The temple relics are exhibited from the 1st to 6th November. In the court- yard stands an enormous Icho tree, known as the " Staff Icho." Local tradition says that when Shinran •Shonin, the founder of the Monto sect, was about to depart for Kyoto, and bade adieu to Roltai, the apostle of the sect in Eastern Japan, he stuck his staff upside down in the ground, saying, ** Like this staff shall be the strength of the faith and the salvation of the people," — whereupon the staff immediately began to take root and sprout upwards. To the W. of Azabu, in the suburb of Shibuya, stands the Bed Cross Hospital (Seki-juji-sha By din), ■ a large and admirably organised in- stitution. 3. — Chief Buildings in Koji- machi. The Diet. Sanno. Okubo's Monument. Shokon- SHA. Leaving Shimbashi station and turning 1. along the moat, the wooden buildings of the Imperial Diet will be seen beyond the em- bankment on the other side. The fine brick buildings soon passed r. were completed in 1877 for the College of Engineering, the earliest scientific academy established in Japan, and presided over by British professors. Since the amalgama- tion of this College with the Imperial University in 1886, the buildings have been used for various other purposes. Turning along the moat r., we come to a stretch of flat ground, which was till recently a swamp called Tame-ike. On the hill to the r. is the new mansion of Marquis Nabeshima, formerly Daimyo of Hizen and now Grand Master of Ceremonies at the Imperial Court. In front is the prettily wooded emi- nence on which stands the Shinto Temple of Sanno, officially styled Hie Jinja. Dating in its present form from 1654, it was adopted by the Shoguns of the Tokugawa dynasty as their tutelary shrine. The situation is pretty, but all the buildings except the main temple are falling into decay. In each of the inner compartments of the large gate stands an image of a monkey ornamented with a bib, that animal being regarded as the servant of the divinity of Hie, for which reason monkeys also figure on the altar. This neighbourhood, of which the chief part is called Nagata-cho, is one of the most fashionable in Tokyo. Here stand the palaces of Princes Kita-Shirakawa and Arisu- gawa, and the residences of many high officials and foreign diplomats. Hence, in local parlance, it is some- times nicknamed Daimyo Koji, or the Daimyo Quarter. Below Prince Kita-Shirakawa's Palace is the Kioi-cho Koenchi, a small public garden containing a huge monolith commemorative of Okubo Toshi- michi, one of the founders of the new order of things in Japan, who was assassinated near this spot on the 14th May, 1878, as he was driving from his residence to the Imperial Palace. On the flat top of the Kudan hill, a short way beyond the British Legation, stands the 100 Route 4. — Tokyo. modern Shinto temple of Yasukuni, better known as the Shokonsha, or Spirit-Invoking Shrine. This temple was erected in 1869 for the worship of the spirits of those who had fallen fighting for the Mikado's cause in the revolutionary war of the previous year. Services are also held in honour of those who fell in the Saga troubles of 1873, and in the Satsuma rebellion of 1877. The Shokonsha is built in accor- dance with the severest canons of pure Shinto architecture, and is completely empty except for a mirror, a European drugget, and a dozen cheap wooden chairs for the use of the officials who come to assist at the memorial services which are held from time to time, the principal ones being on the 6-8th May and 6-8th November. These occasions are enlivened by horse- races, wrestling, and other popular amusements. The enormous bronze torii was manufactured in the Osaka arsenal, and set up in December, 1887. The grounds behind the temple have been tastefully laid out, and look their best in early spring when the plum-trees are in blossom. The brick building to the r. of the temple is the Yushu-kzvan, a Museum of Arms, which is open on Sundays, Wednesdays, and Sa- turdays, from 8 a.m. till 5 p.m. in summer, and from 9 to 3 in winter. It is well worth a visit, for the sake of the magnificent specimens of old Japanese swords and scabbards which it contains, as well as ar- mour, old Korean bronze cannon, etc. The granite lanterns lining the avenue which runs down the centre of the race-course, were pre- sented by the nobility in 1878. The large bronze statue of Omura Hyo- bu Taiyu, a distinguished patriot in the war that restored the Mikado to power, was erected in 1892, and is remarkable as being the first Japanese example of this method of commemorating departed worth. Leaving the grounds of the Sho- konsha, we come to an ancient stone beacon, which formerly light- ed junks on their way up Tokyo Bay. Opposite to it, stands a monument in the shape of a bayo- net, erected in 1880 by the soldiers of the Imperial Guard, in memory of their comrades who had fallen fighting on the loyalist side in the Satsuma rebellion. This point over- looks the city in the direction of Ueno. The prominent edifice on the bluff opposite (Suruga-dai) is the Russian Cathedral, consecrated in 1891. 4. — Kojimachi ( Continued ). In- ner Moat. The Imperial, Palace. Insatsu Kyoku. Another and more direct way from Shimbashi to the Shokonsha at Kudan, is by crossing the first bridge (Do-bashi) over the moat, passing the Rohumei-kwan, a large edifice used for social purposes, on the r., and going straight on as far as the site of the Houses of the Diet, at the further end of the former Hibiya parade ground, now being covered with extensive public buildings. Here the road turns r.> with the Russian Legation, the Foreign Office (Gioaimushb) , and military barracks on the 1. Skirting the moat, the large building seen in front is the Head-Quarters of the General Staff Department. Near here, on the 24th March I860, Ii- Kamon-no-Kami, Regent during' the in- terval preceding the election of a new Shogun, and a man of rare sagacity and favourable to foreign intercourse, was assassinated in broad daylight by emis- saries of the Prince of Mito, who was desirous of seating his own son on the throne. To elucidate this incident, it should be mentioned that there were three branches of the Tokugawa family, viz. Kishu, Mito, and Owari, from whom the Shoguns were elected by a family council, and that the election had fallen upon a young prince of Kishu, thus baulking Mito's plans. The moat here, with its green banks and spreading trees, and in winter the myriads of wild-fowl flut- tering in the water, is one of the Imperial Palace. 101 prettiest bits of Tokyo. The vast enclosure of the Imperial Palace lies beyond this moat. T3ie Imperial Palace. The new Palace, inhabited by His Majesty the Mikado since 1889, is not acces- sible to the public, only those who are honoured by an Imperial Audi- ence being admitted within its walls. Nevertheless the following description, abridged from the Japan Mail, maybe of interest : — Entering through long corridors isolated by massive iron doors, we find ourselves in the smaller of two reception rooms, and at the commencement of what seems an endless vista of crystal chambers. This effect is due to the fact that the shqji, or sliding-doors, are of plate-glass. The workmanship and decoration of these chambers are truly exqui- site. It need scarcely be said that the woods employed are of the choicest description, and that the carpenters and joiners have done their part with such skill as only Japanese artisans seem to possess. Every ceiling is a work of art, being divided by lacquer ribs of a deep brown colour into numerous panels, each of which contains a beautifully executed decorative de- sign, painted, embroidered, or em- bossed. The walls are covered in most cases with rich but chaste brocades, except in the corridors, where a thick, embossed paper of charming tint and pattern shows what skill has been developed in this class of manufacture at the Imperial Printing Bureau. Amid this luxury of well-assorted but warm tints, remain the massive square posts — beautiful enough in themselves, but scarcely harmo- nising with their environment, and introducing an incongruous element into the building. The true type of what may be called Imperial esthetic decoration was essentially marked by refined simplicity — white wooden joinery, with pale neutral tints and mellow gilding. 'The splendour of richly painted ceilings, lacquered lattice-work, and brocaded walls was reserved for Buddhist temples and mausolea. Thus we have the Shinto, or true Imperial style, presenting itself in the severely colourless pillars, while the resources of religious architec- ture have been drawn upon for the rest of the decoration. In one part of the building the severest canons have been strictly followed : the six Imperial Studios, three below stairs and three above, are precisely such chaste and pure apartments as a scholar would choose for the abode of learning. By way of an example in the other direction, we may take the Banqueting Hall, a room of magnificent size (540 sq. yds.) and noble proportions, its immense ex- panse of ceiling glowing with gold and colours, and its broad walls hung with the costliest silks. The Throne Chamber is scarcely less striking, though of smaller dimen- sions and more subdued decoration. Every detail of the work shows in- finite painstaking, and is redolent of artistic instinct. A magnificent piece of tapestry hangs in one of the salons. It is 40 ft. by 13 ft., woven in one piece by Messrs. Kawashima of Kyoto. The weaving is of the kind known as tsuzure-ori, so called because each part of the design is separated from the body of the stuff by a border of pin-points, so that the whole pattern seems suspended in the material. The subject re- presented is an Imperial procession in feudal Japan, and the designer has succeeded in grouping an im- mense number of figures with ad- mirable taste and skill. The colours are rich and harmonious, and the whole forms probably one of the finest pieces of tapestry in existence. The furniture of the Palace was imported from Germany. Exter- nally the principal buildings are all in pure Japanese style. The ap- propriation for the Palace was 13,000,000 ; but to this amount must be added considerable sums voluntarily offered by wealthy Japa- 102 Route 4. — Tokyo. nese, as well as valuable contribu- tions of materials. The unpretentious brick and plaster structure to be seen from the E. side, rising above the rnoat in the Palace enclosure, contains the offices of the Imperial House- hold Department (Kunaisho). Not far from the Palace, in an E. direction, is the Insatsil Kyoku or Government Printing Office, a vast and well-organised establish- ment, to the inspection of which a day may be profitably devoted, as its scope is very wide, includ- ing much besides mere printing. Here, among other things, is manu- factured the paper currency of the country. The Ministries of Finance, of Education, and of the Interior, together with various other Govern- ment Offices, are in the same neighbourhood. 5. — GlNZA. SUITENGU. NlHON- bashi. Cueio Street. Seido. Kanda Myojin. Imperial Uni- versity. Dango-zaka. O-gwan- non. Botanical Garden. Koi- shikawa. Arsenal and Garden. Gokoku-ji. Imperial Cemetery. The most important thorough- fare in Tokyo, which none should fail to see, leads from the Shimbashi terminus to Megane-bashi. The portion of it nearest to the station is called the Grinza, and has many shops in European style. Proceed- ing along it, the traveller crosses the Kyobashi and Nihon-bashi bridges, from the latter of which all distances in Eastern Japan are calculated. The new General Post- Office stands close by. Parallel to the portion of the main street be- tween these bridges is Naka-dori, a street highly attractive on account of its second-hand curio shops, and hence commonly known as Curio Street among the foreign residents. Nihon-bashi has also given its name to the surrounding large and busy district, which is filled with shops, market-places, and godowns. The great fish-market is a notable sight in the early hours of the morn- ing. Another sight (chiefly on the 5th day of the month) is afforded by the concourse of worshippers at the Suite ngii Temple. The deity here worshipped is a com- pound evolved by the popular conscious- ness from Varuna, the Buddhist Neptune, the Shinto sea-gods of Sumiyoshi near Osaka, and the boy-emperor, Antoku, who found a watery grave at Dannoura. Megane-Bashi, or Spectacles Bridge, is so called from its circu- lar arches. The portion of the canal to the 1. is popularly known as " Sendai's Weeping Excavation "" (Naki-bori). Local history says that Tsunamune, Daimyo of Sendai, was in the habit of squandering large sums at the Yoshi- wara, and that "the Shogun, in order to turn him from his rakish ways, and also to put such extravagance out of his power, imposed on him the task of deep- ening and widening this part of the moat — a work which he is said to have per- formed with much lamentation over the drain on his purse. A little way on is the former Seido, the Sage's Hall, or Temple of Confucius, now used as an Educa- tional Museum. It is pleasantly situated on rising ground in the midst of a grove of trees, among which the fragrant mokusei is most conspic- uous. The buildings, which date from 1691, are fine specimens of the Chinese style of architecture. The main hall facing the entrance is supported on black lacquered pillars, the celling also is of black lacquer, while the floor is of finely chiselled square blocks of stone. Opposite the door is a wooden image of Confucius, possessing considerable merit as a work of art. The Museum, which contains specimens of school and kindergarten furni- ture, books, maps, etc., is open daily to visitors. Just above, in the same grounds, stand the two sections of the Nor- mal School (Shihan Gakkd), that in brick being for young men, the other for girls. Kanda Myojin. University. Koishikaiva, 103 Behind the Seido, is the Kyobu Shinto temple of Kanda Myojin, dedicated to the god Onamuji and to Masakado, a celebrated rebel of the 10th century. After the final overthrow of Masakado, "his ghost used to haunt the neighbour- hood. In order to lay this spectre, apo- theosis was resorted to in the 13th cen- tury. The temple, for which a hoary antiquity is claimed, but which was only established in its present site in 161G, has been frequently burnt down and rebuilt since that time. The temple, originally decorated with paintings by artists of the Kano school, has now grown some- what dingy, but is still popular with the multitude. The chief festival, celebrated on the 15th September, is well worth seeing. Entering the main street of the district of Kanda, one of the chief arteries of the Northern portion of the metropolis, we come r. to the Imperial University (Teikoku Dai- gaku), a set of handsome brick buildings standing in the extensive grounds of the former Kaga Yashiki, or mansion of the great Daimyo of Kaga. The germ of this institution was the BansJio Shirabe-jo, or " Place for the Ex- amination of Barbarian Writings," found- ed by the Tokugawa Government in 1856. Seven years later, this name was altered to that of Kaisei-jo, or "Place for Develop- ing and Completing," which indicated a change for the better in the views held by the Japanese as to the value of Euro- pean learning. Numerous other modifica- tions have taken place both in the name and scope of the institution, which since 1881 has been placed on a thoroughly modern footing, and now includes Colleges of Law, Medicine, Engineering, Literature, Science, and Agriculture, where lectures are delivered by a large staff of professors of various nationalities and in various languages. The students number over 1,300. The courses that attract most students are those of Law and Medicine. A large hospital connected with the Uni- versity stands in the same grounds. Other institutions under the authority of the President of the University are the Botanical Gardens in the district of Koi- shikawa, and the Tokyo Observatory at Iigura. __ Further on, in the direction of Oji, are the florists' gardens of Dango-zaka, whither the towns- folk flock in thousands to see the chrysanthemum shows in Novem- ber. The flowers are trained over trellis-work to represent historical and mythological scenes, ships, dragons, and other curious objects. The O-CxWiifinon, or Great Kwannon, may be worth a pass- ing visit. The gilt image, which is 16 ft. high, was an offering made in the 17th century by a merchant of Yedo, and represents the goddess bending slightly forward, and hold- ing in her hand the lotus, the em- blem of purity. Bound the walls of the shrine containing the image, are ranged in tiers the Sen-tai Kwannon, or images of the Thou- sand Incarnations of Kwannon. The Koishikawa Botanical Gar- den (Slioku-butsu-cn) is open to the public, and duplicate specimens of the plants are for sale a.t the office. The small temple of Muryo-in, in the same district, is connected with the history of the early Catholic missionaries to Japan, some of whom lie buried in the cemetery. Hence the name oiKirishitan-zaka, or Christian Hill, by which the locality is popularly known. The grave of the earliest of these mis- sionaries, Father Giuseppe Chiara, who died in 1685, may be dis- tinguished by a priest's hat carved in the stone. Readers desirous of further details are referred to the writings of Mr. Ernest Satow and Professor j/M. Dixon, in Vol. VI, Part I, and Vol. XVI, Part III. of the Transactions of the Asiatic Society of Japan. The Koishikawa Arsenal (Hohei Kbsho) occupies the site of the former mansion of the Prince of Mito. Here are manufactured the celebrated Murata rifles. An order from the military authorities is necessary to gain admittance. An order is also necessary for the Garden (Koraku-en), which still re- mains intact, and is the finest specimen of the Japanese land- scape gardener's art to be seen in the capital. The object of its 104 Route 4. — Tokyo. designer was to reproduce in minia- ture many of the scenes whose names are classic among the lite- rati of Japan. Prince Mitsukuni, generally known as Mito Komon, laid out the grounds as a place in which to enjoy a calm old age after a life of labour. If the visitor has first inspected the Arsenal, he will then be conducted to a summer- house in the Garden, with an extensive grass-plot attached, and overlooking a lake copied from a noted one in China, called Sei-ko. A small wooded hill rises beyond, which we ascend, and on which stands a miniature replica of the famous temple of Kiyomizu at Kyoto, enriched with carvings, but worn by time. Descending, we are plunged for a minute in the depths of a wood before reaching an old bridge with a rivulet running far below. Crossing the bridge and following up a zigzag path, we come to the shrine of Haku-i and Shiku- sei, the loyal brothers of Chinese lore, who, after the overthrow of their lord and master, refused to eat the corn produced under the con- queror's sway, and, secluding them- selves on Mount Shuyo, lived on ferns till, being told that ferns grew also on their enemy's lands, they abstained even from that poor food, and so died of starvation. An arched stone bridge and another shrine, shaped octagonally in allu- sion to the Eight Diagrams of the Chinese system of divination, are next passed. From here, a tunnel- like opening leads through a thicket of creepers and other trees to a lake several acres in extent and full of lotus-flowers. The water, which comes from the Tamagawa aque- duct, is made to form a pretty cas- cade before falling into the lake. An island in the centre is connected with the mainland by a bridge. Everywhere there are magnificent trees— cherry-trees for the spring, maples for the autumn, plum-trees for the winter, making a change of scene at each season. Near the exit, is a hill with a path paved in such manner as to imitate the road over the Hakone Pass. On the extreme N. W. outskirt of the city stands the Buddhist temple of Gokokujiy now used as the head- quarters of the Shingon sect, which has a seminary there for young priests. With its extensive grounds, its silent belfry, and the perfect stillness of its surroundings, it recalls the memory of days now irretrievably past, when Buddhism was a mighty power in the land. The azaleas here are noted for their beauty. The chief treasure of the temple is a gigantic kakemono of Buddha's Entry into Nirvana, by Kano Yasunobu, which is shown only during the month of April. Adjoining Gokokuji is the new Cemetery of the Imperial family, selected since the removal of the Court to Tokyo. It is not open to the public. 6. — Ueno Park, Temples, and Museum. Asakusa. Higashi Hongwanji. Temple op Kwan- non. Mukojima. Horikiri. XJeiiO Park, famed for its Temples and Tombs of the Shoguns, is the most popular resort in the metro- polis, and has been the site of three National Industrial Exhibitions. Here, in April, all Tokyo assembles to admire the wonderful mass of cherry-blossom for which it is famous. No traveller should miss this opportunity of witnessing a scene charming alike for natural beauty and picturesque Eastern life. The importance of Ueno, which lies due N. E. of the Palace, had its origin in a wide-spread superstition, which regards that q tiarter as the most unlucky of all the points of the compass, and brands it with the name of Ki-mon, or the Demons* Gate. When, therefore, some progress had been made in the construction of the city of Yedo, the Shogun Iemitsu, in the year 1625, determined to erect here a set of Buddhist temples, which, eclipsing all others in splendour, should ward off the approach of such evil influences. The original main temple then founded Ueno Park and Temples. 105 occupied the site of the present Museum, and was burnt down in 1868 on the occasion of a bloody battle fought between the partisans of the Mikado and those of the Shogun. The outer gate still exists, showing the marks of bullets. This temple was counted among the triumphs of Japanese architecture. Here always resided as high-priest a son of the reign- ing Mikado, retained in gilded slavery for political reasons, as it was convenient for the Shoguns to have in their power a prince who could at once be decorated with the Imperial title, should the Court of Kyoto at any time prove unfavourable to their policy. The last high-priest of Ueno was actually utilised in this man- ner by the shogun' s partisans, and car- ried off by them to Aizu when they raised the standard of rebellion. On their defeat, he was pardoned by the present legiti- mate sovereign, was sent to Germany to study, and is now known by the title of Prince Kita-Shirakawa. Leaving his jinrikisha at the bottom of the hill, the traveller ascends r. a short flight of steps, leading to a plateau planted with cherry-trees and commanding a good view of the city, especially towards Asakusa, including the twelve-storied tower which is seen rising beyond the Ueno railway station, and the high roof of the great Hongwanji temple. The stone monument on this plateau is de- dicated to the soldiers who fell fighting for the Shogun's cause in the battle of Ueno. Close by to the 1., is a dingy Buddhist temple dedi- cated to the Thousand-Handed Kwannon. Descending again to the main road, we reach the celebrated avenue of cherry-trees, a uniquely beauti- ful sight during the season of blos- som. The air seems to be rilled with pink clouds. To the 1., is a shallow piece of water, called Shinobazu no Ike and celebrated for its lotus- flowers in August. On a little peninsula jutting out into the lake, is a shrine dedicated to the goddess Benten. This formerly romantic spot has of late years fallen a victim to vandalism, the shores of the lake having been turned into a race- course. A little further up, is a branch of the *Seiydhen Hotel, which commands a good view of the lake. The extensive buildings seen in the distance, on a height, are the Imperial University and the First Higher Middle School. Close to the hotel is a bronze image of Buddha, 21 J ft. high, known as the Daibutsu. This inferior specimen of the bronze sculptor's art dates from about the year 1660. Following along the main road for a few yards, we come 1. to a bullet-riddled gate, preserved as a relic of the battle of Ueno. An immense stone lantern just inside the gate is one of the three largest in Japan, and dates from early in the 17th century. Beyond it again, has stood since 1890 a switch-back railway, whose vulgar clatter strikes a strangely discordant note in the harmony produced by the stately cryptomerias, the ancient pagoda, and the glorious gold gate at the end of the long avenue of stone lanterns, presented in 1651 by various Daimyos as a tribute to the memory of the Shogun Ieyasu. To this Shogun, under his posthumous name of Toshogu or Gongen Sama, the shrine within the gate is dedi- cated. The gate itself, restored in 1890, is a dream of beauty. Carv- ings of dragons adorn it on either side. Above are geometrical figures, birds, foliage, and everywhere the Tokugawa crest of three Asarum leaves. It is intended to restore in the same style the temple whose gold has been worn away in many places. The details resemble those of the Mortuary Shrines at Shiba. The temple contains some fine speci- mens of lacquer. Round the walls hang pictures of the San-ju-rok-Jca- sen, below which are screens with conventional lions. The San-ju-roJc-Jca-sen, or Thirty-six Poetical Geniuses, flourished during the 8th, 9th, and 10th centuries. The grouping of their names in a galaxy is attributed to a court noble of the 11th century, named Kinto Dainagon. Their portraits were first painted by Fujiwara-no-Nobuzane about AD. 1200. A complete list of their names will be found in Dr. Wm. Ander- son's interesting Catalogue of Japanese and Chinese Paintings. 106 Route 4. — Tokyo. Returning to the main road the way we came, and passing by the former buildings of the last National Industrial Exhibition, we reach the Ueno Museum ( Hakubutsu- kwaii). This institution, which is open from 8 to 5 in summer, and from 9 to 4 in winter, Mondays and the three weeks from the 16th De- cember to the 4th January excepted, is well worth a visit. The contents are arranged as follows : — Ground Floor. R. of Entrance. Natural History Department : — ob- serve the cocks from Tosa, with tail feathers 12 \ ft. long. The front rooms contain the Zoological Sec- tion ; the back rooms, the Mineral- ogical Section. A wing lying beyond the room chiefly devoted to osteo- logical specimens, is the Department of Industry, containing glass and porcelain (both foreign and Japa- nese), chemical, ship-building, engi- neering, architectural, and other specimens. An annexe at the back of the main building contains the surplus of the Mineralogical Section. Be- hind it a pretty landscape garden in Japanese style has been laid out. Ground Floor. L. of Entrance. Front rooms. Historical or Archse- logical Department, including Room I. Ancient manuscripts and printed books, old maps, paintings, and rubbings. Room II. Stone arrow-heads, spear-heads, and pottery of the prehistoric period; proto-historic copper bells and mir- rors, iron swords, armour, horse- trappings, shoes, and cooking uten- sils. The most characteristically Japanese specimens are the maga- tama and kuda-tama in jasper, agate, etc., The maga-tama, or "curved jewels," which somewhat resemble a tadpole in shape, were anciently (say, prior to the 7th century) strung together and used as necklaces and ornaments for the waist both by men and women, as were also the kuda-tama or " tube-shaped jewels." Their use survived in the Loochoo Is- lands till a much more recent date. Besides the above, notice also the pottery anciently used for the pre- sentation of offerings to the Shinto gods. Some pieces from the pro- vinces on the N.E. shore of the In- land Sea are remarkably ornamented with human figures in high relief. Particularly curious are the earthen- ware images of men and horses used in proto-historic times for interment in the graves of illustrious person- ages, after the custom of burying their chief retainers alive with them had been discontinued, the figures of birds — apparently geese — which were used as a fence round the tumulus of the Emperor Ojin in the pro- vince of Kawachi, and fragments of earthenware posts put to a similar purpose. Room III. (End Room). Objects illustrating the manners and customs of the Ainos, Koreans, Loochooans, Chinese, Formosan and Australasian aborigines, the natives of India, and the American Indians. The back rooms on this side contain palanquins of the Tokugawa period, old paintings, statues by the students of the Tokyo Art School, and copies of very ancient Buddhist frescoes preserved at the temple of Horyuji in Yamato. Upper Floor. Landing : — Ancient Imperial State bullock cart and palanquins, model of the Tenchi Maru, or Ship of Heaven and Earth, which was the state barge used by the Shoguns. Central Boom, adjoining the landing : — Imperial robes, and other articles used by the Emperor under the old regime, including the throne hung with silk hangings, which served to shroud Majesty from the gaze of ordinary mortals, who, so it was believed, would be struck blind if they looked upon the " Dragon Ueno Museum. 107 Face." There are also Imperial autographs, gold screens, etc. Turning to the r. (over the Natural History Department), we come to the Fine Art Department. Room 1 contains old Kakemonos and Makimonos ; Eoom 2, ancient masks and images, chiefly bronze ; Boom 3, manuscripts and illustrat- ed scrolls. The back rooms on this side comprise the Art Industry Department, — lacquer, porcelain, bronze, etc. Upper Stobey. L. op Entrance. Room I. Model, on a scale of ^, of the Shinto shrines temporarily erected in the Fukiage garden in Tokyo, for the ceremonies attending the accession of the present Emperor. These ceremonies took place in 1871, and the buildings were at once burnt. Room II. Department of History. This room is chiefly devoted to ancient objects from Horyuji, such as temple furniture, seals, golden tok- ko, and specimens of the miniature pagodas (Hachi-man-to) of which, in A.D. 764, the reigning Mikado caused a million to be made for distribution to all the Buddhist temples throughout the land. There are also manuscripts, which rank among the earliest specimens of Japanese calligraphy. They are all in the Chinese language. The principal other exhibits are fac- similes of ancient objects of daily use at the Imperial Court preserved at the Shoso-in, a celebrated store- house attached to the temple of Todaiji at Nara, and implements used in the Shinto religious cult. Two cases in this room have a very special interest, as they are filled with Christian relics. Many of these date from the embassy to Borne of Hashikura Rokuemon, who was sent thither by Date Masamime, Prince of Sendai, in 1614, with a train of followers, and returned to Japan in 1620. The offi- cial Japanese account of this curious episode is that the embassy went at the Shogun's desire, in order to investigate the political strength and resources of Europe. The version usually accepted by European writers is that the expedition really was what it avowed itself to be, — an act of submission to the religious supremacy of the Pope. The envoy was well received at the Roman Court, and was presented with the freedom of the city of Rome, besides being loaded with presents. The relics remained in the possession of the Date family at Sendai until a few years ago. Among the objects in these cases, are an oil-painting of Hashikura in prayer before a crucifix, an il- luminated Latin document confer- ring on him the freedom of the city of Rome, holy pictures, rosaries, crucifixes, a small Japanese book of Catholic devotion in Hiragana characters, photographs of Date Maspomune's letters to the Pope in Japanese and Latin, a portrait of Hashikura in the Italian costume, etc. To a set of circumstances very different in their nature, though not far removed in time, belong the fumi-ita, or " trampling boards," — oblong blocks of metal with figures in high relief of Christ before Pilate, the Descent from the Cross, the Virgin and Child, etc., on which persons suspected of the crime of Christianity were obliged to trample during times of persecution, in order to testify their abjuration of the "Depraved Sect," as it was called. The Dutch traders at Nagasaki are suspected of having lent themselves to this infamous practice for the sake of monetary gain. The last room of this suite con- tains objects illustrative of Japanese social usages and etiquette, such as symbolical presents given on the occasion of marriages and the naming of children, methods of folding paper and tying up presents, the toys displayed on the Girls' Festival of the 3rd March, and the Boys' Festival of the 5th May, etc. The back rooms on this side con- tain court robes, ancient textile fabrics, armour and weapons, 108 Route 4. — Tokyo. musical instruments, tea utensils, masks, and theatrical costumes. On quitting the Museum, an avenue r. leads to the Art School '(Bijutsu Gakko), not accessible without a special introduction. In the same grounds are a Public Library and Reading Room (Tosho- kivan), and a learned Academy called the Gakushi Kioai-in. Close by are the Zoological Gardens (Dd- biUsu-en). Before reaching the Tosho-kwan, an avenue turns off r. to the Tombs of the Shoguns {Go Rei- ya), abutting on the second and finer of the two Mortuary Temples (Ni no Go Reiya). The main gate is always kept closed, but a side en- trance 1. leads to the priest's house. The resident custodian will act as guide for a small fee. The six Shoguns buried at Ueno belong- ed to the Tokugrawa family, being the 4th, 5th, 8th, 10th, 11th, and 13th of their line. It is still at the private expense of the family that these shrines are kept np. In general style, they closely resemble those at Shiba, described on pp. 94—7, and are among the priceless legacies of the art of Old Japan. Like the Shiba shrines, too, they have suffered at the hands of thieves since the Revolution of 1868. This glorious building, a sym- phony in gold and blended colours, has a wooden colonnade in front, the red walls of which are divided into compartments, each contain- ing a medallion in the centre, filled with painted open-work carvings of birds and flowers, with arabes- ques derived from the chrysan- themum above and a carved wave- design below. In the centre of this colonnade is a gate decorated with a painting of an angel. From here, an open colonnade leads up to the steps of the main building. The porch has brackets carved with conventional chrysanthemums. Its square columns are adorned with plum-blossoms in red and gold. Under the beams, are red and gold lions' heads as brackets. The doors of the oratory are carved in diapers, and gilded all over. Note the taste- fully painted diapers on the archi- trave. The ceiling is massive and loaded with metal fastenings. In the coffers are dragons in gold on a blue ground. The interior walls are gilded, having in some places conventional paintings of lions, in others movable shutters. This apartment is 16 yds. wide by 7 yds. in depth. The corridor which suc- ceeds it is 4 yds. wide by 8 yds. in depth, and leads to the black lac- quered steps of the inner sanctum. Its ceiling is decorated with the phoenix on a green and gold ground. Handsome gilt doors covered with carved arabesques close the entrance to the sanctum, which measures 7 yds. in depth by 11 }^ds. in width. The ceiling is decorated with fine gilt lattice-work in the coffers. The small shrines, containing the me- morial tablets of the illustrious dead, are gorgeous specimens of gold lacquer. Beginning at the r., these shrines are respectively those of the 5th, 8th, and 13th Shoguns, and of K6kyo-In, son of the tenth Shogun. B. and 1. are two shrines containing tablets of eight mothers of Shoguns. Curiously enough, all were concubines, not legitimate consorts. The actual graves are in the grounds behind. The finest, a bronze one, is that of the 5th Shogun. Its bronze gate has magnificent panels, with the phoenix and unicorn in bas-relief — Korean castings from Japanese designs about 140 years old. The First Mortuary Temple (Ichi no Go Reiya) is close to the Second. On leaving the Second, turn to the 1. to reach the priests' house, where application for admission must be made. Here are buried the 4th, 10th, and 11th Shoguns, together with several princesses. The monu- ment of the 4th is in bronze, the others in simple stone. Over the grave of the 11th Shogun hangs a weeping cherry-tree, placed there to commemorate the love of flowers which distinguished that amiable Higashi Hongwanji. 109 prince, whose reign (A.D. 1787-1838) formed the culminating point of the splendour of Old Japan. Returning towards the entrance of the park, we reach the Buddhist temple popularly known as Ryo Daishi, properly Jigen-Do, dedicated to the two great Abbots, Jie Daishi and Jigen Daishi, the former of whom nourished in the 9th century, the latter in the 16th and 17th. The portrait of Jie Daishi here pre- served is considered one of the chef- d'ceuvres of the great painter Kano Tan-yu. On this side of the park are some buildings often used of late years for art exhibitions of various kinds. We now leave Ueno, and passing along a busy thoroughfare, reach the district of Asakusa. The first object of interest here is the spacious temple of Higaslii Hongwanji, popularly called Monzeki, the chief religious edifice in Tokyo of the Monto sect of Buddhists. Though very plain, as is usual with the buildings of this sect, the Monzeki is worth visiting on account of its noble proportions. It was founded in 1657. The iron net-work thrown over the temple is intended to pre- vent sparks from falling on the wood-work, when there is a confla- gration in the neighbourhood. The huge porch is adorned with finely carved wooden brackets, the designs being chrysanthemum flowers and leaves, and peony flowers and leaves. On the transverse beams are some curiously involved dragons, which are the best specimens of this sort of work in Tokyo, and should therefore not be passed over. Observe, too, the manner — peculiar to the buildings of this sect — in which the beams are picked out with white. The area of the matted floor of the nave (gejin) is 140 mats, and round the front and sides runs a wooden aisle 12 ft. wide. Over the screen which separates the chancel and its side-chapels from the nave, are massive gilt open-work carvings representing angels and phoenixes ; the largest are 12 ft. in length by 4 ft. in height. The rest of the building is unadorned. Hanging against the gilt background of the temple wall, on either side of the altar, are to be seen several kakemonos of Buddhist saints, indistinguishable in the " dim religi- ous light;" als,o r. the posthumous tablet of Ieyasu, which is exposed for veneration on the 17th of the month. The honzon, Amida, is a black image, always exposed to view, and standing in a very hand- some shrine of black and gold lac- quer. From the r. side of bhe main hall, a bridge leads down to the Jiki-do, or preaching hall. At the main temple, sermons are only preached for one week in the year,, viz. from the 21st to 28th Novem- ber, when the gorgeous services {Ho-on-kd) held in honour of the founder of the sect are well worth witnessing. On this occasion, the men all go to the temple in the style of dress known as kata-gimi, and the women with a head-dress called tsuno-kakushi (lit. " horn- hider ") — both relics of the past. The " horn-hider " would seem to have been so named in allusion to a Buddhist text which says : " A woman's exterior is that of a saint, but her heart is that of a demon." — Lesser services are held at the time of the vernal' and autumnal equi- noxes. Quaint testimony is borne to the popularity of this temple with the lower middle class by the notices posted up on some of the great columns in the main hall. Not only is there one to prohibit smoking, but one warning people not to come here for their afternoon nap (Hiru-ne muyd) ! On quitting the Monzeki, notice its nobly mass- ive roof, with lions rampant at the corners. About 7 cho from the Monzeki, stands the great Buddhist temple of Sensdji, popularly called A.sa- kusa Kwannon, because dedicat- ed to Kwannon, the goddess of Mercy. 110 Route 4. — Tokyo. A fabulous antiquity is claimed for the founding in this locality of a shrine sacred to Kwannon, the tradition being that the image which is now worshipped there, was fished up on the neighbouring strand daring the reign of the Empress Suiko (A.D. 593—628) by a noble of the name of Hashi-no-Nakatomo, who had been exiled to this then desolate portion of the coast, and with two attendants gained his livelihood by casting his nets at the mouth of the Asakusa. river. In his fishing-hut the first altar is said to have been raised ; and the crest of three nets, which is to be seen marking certain portions of the buildings, was devised in memory of the event. The miraculous image is never shown, but is commonly believed to be but If inch in height ; and the disproportion between the smallness of the image and the vastness of the temple has passed into a popular saying. Instead of the original sacred image, there is exhibited on the 13t,h December of every year a newer and larger one which stands in front of the high altar. In the year 1180, Yoritomo endowed the temple with ninety acres of arable land. But when leyasu made Yedo his capital, he found the temple gone to ruin, and the priests living in disorder and immorality. The present buildings date from the time of lemitsu, after the destruction by fire of the former edifice. They are in the possession of the Tendai sect of Bud- dhists. On no account should a visit to this popular temple and the sur- rounding grounds (Koenchi) be omitted ; for it is the great holiday resort of the middle and lower classes, and nothing is more strik- ing than the juxtaposition of piety and pleasure, of gorgeous altars and grotesque ex-votos, of pretty costumes and dingy idols, the clatter of the clogs, cocks and hens and pigeons strutting about among the worshippers, children playing, soldiers smoking, believers chaffer- ing with dealers of charms, ancient art, modern advertisements — in fine, a spectacle than which surely nothing more motley was ever wit- nessed within a religious edifice. The most crowded time is Sunday afternoon, and the 17th and 18th of each month, days sacred to Kwannon. The main gate of the temple no longer exists. One walks up through a lane of red brick shops, where toys, photographs, and gew- gaws of all kinds are spread out to tempt the multitude. The sam- mon, or two-storied gate in front of the temple, is a huge structure of red wood, with images of the Ni-d on either side. The immense sandals hung up in front of the cages containing these images, are placed there by persons desirous of becoming good walkers. To the 1., immediately before passing through the big gate, is a popular Shrine of Fudo, just outside of which is a shrine of Jizo, distin- guishable by a prayer- wheel (go-sho- guruma) roughly resembling a pillar post-box. The prayer- wheel is, in Japan, found only in connection with the mystic doc- trine of the Tendai and Shingon sects, and its use differs slightly from that to which it is put in Thibet. No prayers are written on it ; but the worshipper, attri- buting to ingwa (the Sanskrit karma, which means, the effect in this life of the actions in a former state of existence) any sin of which he wishes to be cleansed, or any desire that occurs to him, turns the wheel with a simple request to Jizo to let this ingwa duly run its course — the course of ingwa, resembling the perpetual revolu- tions of a wheel. On the opposite or r. side of the lane, on a mound, is the large Asa- kusa bell whose sonorous notes are heard all over the northern part of the city. The great hall of the temple of Kwannon is 102 ft. square, and is entirely surrounded by a wide gallery. The large picture hanging above the entrance to the r. re- presents life (under the figure of two sleeping men and a sleep- ing tiger) as nothing more than a dream, the only living reality in which is the power of religion (typified by a Buddhist priest). Just below this rests a huge moku- gyo, a hollow wooden block, fish- shaped, which priests strike while praying. The eye is struck, on entering, by the immense number of lanterns and pictures which cover the ceiling and walls. These are all offerings presented by be- Temple of -Kwannon at Asakusa. Ill lievers. Some of the pictures are by good modern artists. One over the shrine to the r. represents a performance of the No, or mediaeval , lyric drama, in which the red-hair- ed sea-demon called Shojo plays the chief part. Opposite is a curious painted carving in relief, representing the "Three Heroes of Shoku" (a Chinese state established in the 2nd century chiefly by their efforts). The hero on the r., called Kwan-u, is now worshipped in China as the God of War. To the 1. of this, is one showing On-Uma- ya-no-Kisanda fixing his bow-string to, shoot the foes of his master Yoshitsune, the latter (to the r.) being awakened by his mistress, the renowned and lovely Shizuka Go- zen. The ceiling is painted with representations of angels, the work of Kano Doshun. The seated image to the r., with a pink bib round its neck, and now almost rubbed away with age, was a celebrated work of Jikaku Daishi, and represents Bin- zuru, the helper of the sick. At any time of the day believers may be observed rubbing it (see p. 40). The stalls in front of the main shrine are for the sale of pictures of the goddess Kwannon, which are used as charms against sickness, to help women in child-birth, etc., of tickets to say whether a child about to be born will be a boy or a girl, and so forth. The chancel is, as usual, separat- ed from the nave by a wire screen, and is not accessible to the public. A small douceur tendered to one of the priests in charge will, however, generally procure admission. On the high altar, gorgeous with lamps, flowers, gold, damask, and sacred vessels, and guarded by figures of the Shi Tenno, of Bon ten, and of Taishaku, the latter said to be the work of Gyogi Bosatsu, stands the shrine containing the sacred image of Kwannon. On either side are ranged images, some 2 or 3 ft. high, of Kwannon in her " Three- and - Thirty Terrestrial Embodi- ments," each set in a handsome shrine standing out against the gold ground of the wall. E. and 1. of the altar, hang a pair of votive offerings — golden horses in high relief on a lacquer ground — present- ed by the Shogun Iemitsu. On the ceiling is a dragon, the work of Kano Eishin. The side altar to the r. is dedicated to Fudo. Observe the numerous vessels used in the ceremony of the Goma prayers, which are frequently offered up here for the recovery of the sick. The twelve small images are the Ju-ni Doji, or attendants of Kwan- non. The altar to the 1. is de- dicated to Aizen Myo-6, whose red image with three eyes and six arms is contained in a gaudy shrine. The two-storied miniature pagoda is simply an offering, as are also the thousand small images of Kwannon in a case to the 1., and the large European mirror, in front of which is a life-like image of the abbot Zennin Shonin. At the back of the main altar is another called Ura Kwannon {lira meaning "back"), which should be visited for the sake of the modern wall- pictures on lacquer with a back- ground of gold leaf, by artists of the Kano school. Above are a crowd of supernatural beings, headed by a converted dragon in the form of a beautiful woman, who offers a large jewel to Shaka. Two of the latter's disciples (Rakan) are at his r. foot, Monju at his 1. foot, and Fugen below on the 1. The figure of Fugen has been restored within the last thirty years. Those on the r. and 1. walls are intended for the Twenty -eight Manifestations of Kwannon. In the grounds are several build- ings of interest, and a number of icho trees whose golden foliage in autumu is a sight in itself. Be- hind the great temple to the 1., is a small shrine full of ex-votos in- scribed with the character )fr, " eye," presented by persons afflict- ed with eye disease. Beside it is a 112 Route 4. — Tokyo. large bronze image of Buddha, and close by is a lantern on which be- lievers pour water to obtain an an- swer to their prayers. The small hexagonal building immediately be- hind the great temple is the Daiho- do or Jizo-do, containing a crowd of little stone images seated in tiers round a large one of Jizo. This divinity being the special protector of children, parents bring the images of their dead little ones to his shrine. Beyond the Jizo-do, is the Nem- butsu-do with a pretty altar. Turn- ing r., we come to the Sanja — a Shinto shrine, dedicated to the Three Fishermen of the local legend, and having panels decorated with mythological monsters in gaudy colours. Note the bronze and stone lions in front. Passing the stage on which the Kagura dances are performed, we reach the Rinzo, or Revolving Library, contained in a square building with carved lions on the eaves. The Minzb is a receptacle large enough. to hold a complete collection of the Bud- dhist Scriptures, but turning so easily on a pivot as to be readily made to revolve by one vigorous push. A ticket over the door explains the use of this peculiar book case : " Owing to the volurninousness of the Buddhist Scriptures — 6,771 volumes — it is impossible for any single in- dividual to read them through. But a degree of merit equal to that accruing to him who should have perused the entire canon, may be obtained by those who will cause this library to revolve three times on its axis ; and moreover long life, pros- perity, and the avoidance of all misfor- tunes shall be their reward." The inven- tion of Revolving Libraries is attributed to Fu Daishi (see p. 41). That at Asakusa, is of red lacquer on a black lacquer base and stone lotus-shaped pedestal. The ceiling of the small building containing it has re- presentations of clouds and angels. The images in front, on entering, represent Fu Daishi with his sons. Those tramp- ling on demons are the Shi Tenno, and the life-size gilt figure is Shaka. The books, which were brought from China early in the 13th century, are aired every year at the autumn equinox, but are not shown at other times. The custodian, in return for a small gratuity, will allow visitors to make the library revolve. The Pagoda close by is no longer open to visitors. Adjacent to the temple enclosure we find the Asakusa Koenchi, or Public Grounds, where stands the lofty tower, properly called Byd-un- kaku, and more popularly, Ju-ni- kai. This building, erected in 1890, has twelve storeys, as its popular name implies, is 220 ft. in height, nearly 50 ft. in internal diameter at the base, and commands a more extensive view than any other point in the city. The grounds of Asakusa are the quaintest and liveliest place in Tokyo. Here are raree-shows, penny gaffs, performing monkeys, cheap photographers, street artists, jug- glers, wrestlers, theatrical and other figures (ningyo) in painted wood and clay, vendors of toys and lolly- pops of every sort, and, circulating amidst all these cheap attractions, a seething crowd of busy holiday- makers. About 1 m. to the N. of Asakusa Park lies the world-famed Yoshi- ivara, the principal quarter inhabit- ed by the licensed hetairse of the metropolis. Many of the houses within this district are almost pala- tial in appearance, and in the eve- ning present a spectacle probably unparalleled in any other country, but reproduced on a smaller scale in the provincial Japanese cities. The unfortunate inmates, decked out in gorgeous raiment, sit in rows with gold screens behind, and pro- tected from the outside by iron bars. As the whole quarter is under special municipal surveillance, per- fect order prevails, enabling the stranger to study, while walking along the streets, the manner in which the Japanese have solved one of the vexed questions of all ages. Their method, though running counter to Anglo-Saxon ideas, pre- serves Tokyo from the disorderly scenes that obtrude themselves ;on the passer-by in our Western cities. On the other side of Azuma-bashi, the finest bridge in Tokyo, is the Muhdjima. Eko-in. 118 Satake Yashiki, which offers one of the best specimens of the Japanese style of landscape gardening. A small fee gives admittance to it. The noted Yaomatsu tea-house stands close by. Mukojima, celebrated for its avenue of cherry-trees, stretches for more than a mile along the 1. bank of the Sumida-gawa. When the blossoms are out in April, Mukojima is densely crowded with holiday-makers from morn till dusk, and the tea-houses on the banks and the boats on the river re-echo with music and merriment. This sight, which lasts for about a week, should on no account be missed. The little temple at the end of the avenue was raised in remembrance of a touching episode of the 10th centmy, which forms the subject of a famous Lyric Drama. Umewaka, the child of a noble family, was carried off from Kyoto by a slave- merchant, and perished in this distant spot, where his body was fonnd by a good priest who gave it burial. The next year his mother, who had roamed over the country in search of her boy, came to the place, where, under a willow-tree, the villagers were weeping over a lowly grave. On asking the name of the dead, she discovered that it was none other than her own son, who during the night appeared in ghostly form, and held con- verse with her; but when day dawned, nothing remained but the waving branches of the willow, and instead of his voice only the sighing of the breeze. A commemorative service is still held on the 15th March; and if it rains on that day, the people say the rain-drops are Umewaka' s tears. Another favourite flower resort, lying some little way beyond Mukojima, is Horikiri, famed for its irises which bloom in June. The excur- sion is a pleasant one at that time of the year. 7. — Eko-in. The Five Hundred Kakan. Kameido. District of FUKAGAWA. SUSAKI. Crossing Ryogoku-baslii, one of the largest bridges in the metro- polis spanning the Sumida-gawa, we reach the noted Buddhist tem- ple of Eko-in. In the spring of 1657, on the occasion of a terrible conflagration which lasted for two days and nights, 107,046 persons are said to have perished in the flames. The Government undertook the care of their interment, and orders were given to Dan- zaemon, the chief of the pariahs,* to con- vey the bodies to Ushijima, as this part of Yedo was then called, and dig for them a common pit. Priests from all the different Buddhist sects came together to recite, for the space of seven days, a thousand scrolls of the sacred books for the benefit of the souls of the departed. The grave was called Muenzuku, or the Mound of Destitution, and the temple which was built near it is, therefore, also popularly entitled Muenji. Eko-in being, on account of its peculiar origin, without the usual means of support derived from the gifts of the relatives of the dead, was formerly used as the place whither sacred images were brought from other provinces to be worshipped for a time by the people of Yedo, and as a scene of public per- formances. The latter custom still sur- vives in the wrestling-matches and other shows, which draw great crowds here every spring and winter. At Eko-in prayers are offered up daily for the souls of dead animals. A fee of 30 cents will procure a short service and burial in the temple grounds for such domestic pets as cats, dogs, etc., a larger sum being neces- sary if the animal's ihai, or funeral tablet, has also to be furnished. Eko-in might well be taken as a text by those who denounce " heathen " temples. Dirty, gaudy, full of semi-defaced images, the walls plastered with advertisements, the altar guarded by two hideous red monsters, children scampering in and out, wrestlers stamping, crowds shouting — the place lacks even the semblance of sanctity. In a small arched enclosure behind the temple, stands the grave of the celebrated highwayman Neziimi Kozd, where incense is always kept burning. The cemetery at the back contains monuments to those who perished in the great fire of 1657, and in the great earthquake of 1855. In Honjo, Midori-cho, about 1 mile further on, is a temple con- * In Japanese, Eta. Their occupations were to slaughter animals, tan leather, assist at executions, etc. The class as such is now abolished; but remnants of its peculiar costume may still occasional- ly be seen in the persons of young girls with broad hats, who go about the streets* playing and singing. 114 Route 4. — Tokyo. taming painted images, almost life- size, of the Five Hundred Rakan (Go-hyaku Rakan), seated on shelves reaching from the bare earth of the floor to the rafters of the roof. They are from the chisel of Shoun, an artist of the 17th century. On some of them are pasted slips of paper with their names. The much larger image in the centre repre- sents Shaka, with Anan on his r. hand and Kasho on his 1. The white image in front of Shaka is Kwannon. The temple also con- tains a hundred small images of Kwannon. The present edifice dates only from 1889, when the images were removed from an older build- ing in the district of Fukagawa, which had fallen into decay. Not far off stands the Shinto Temple of Temmangu, commonly known as Ksisneido, from a stone tortoise seated on a well in the grounds. Sugawara-no-Michizane is here worshipped under the title of Temman Daijizai, i.e., " the Per- fectly Free and Heaven -Filling Heavenly Divinity." The temple grounds have been laid out in imitation of those at Dazaifu, the place of his exile. Passing in through the outer gate, the eye is first attracted by the wistarias trained on trellis, whose blossoms, during the last week of April, make Kameido one of the chief show- places of the capital. They grow on the borders of a pond called Shinji no Ike, or "Pond of the Word Heart," on account of a supposed resem- blance to i\^>, the Chinese character for " heart ; " and one of the amuse- ments of the visitors is to feed the carp and tortoises which it contains. A semi-circular bridge leads over the pond to a large gate in Yatsu- mune-zukuri (i.e., eight-roofed) style, standing in front of the temple. Glass cases inside the gate enclose the usual large images of Zuijin. Round the walls of the temple hang small pictures on a gold ground of the ancient religious dances called Bugaku. Beyond a shed containing two life-size images of sacred ponies, is an exit by which the visitor can reach the Ume-yashiki, or Plum- Garden of Kameido, 4 cho distant. Here grow the Gwarydbai (lit. Plum-trees of the Recumbent Dra- gon), and it is a great show-place early in March, when the blossoms are all out. There are over 500 trees, all extremely old and partly creeping along the ground, whence the name. Most of the cut stones which stand about the grounds are inscribed with stanzas of poetry in praise of the flowers ; and during the season, similar tributes written on paper will be seen hung up on the branches A few cho off lies Mukdjima, described above. The S.E. part of Tokyo, consisting of the district of Fukagawa on the 1. bank of the Sumida-gawa, is a maze of narrow streets, chiefly in- habited by the lower trading and artisan classes, and offers little for the sightseer. Joshiiiji, though the chief temple of the Nichiren sect in Tokyo, is quite unpretentious ; but there are some good carvings on the gates of the priests' dwellings which line the narrow street leading up to it. In the court-yard is a large bronze image of Shaka supported on the shoulders of stone demons ; and at the back, beyond the cemetery, a curious susperstitious practice may be witnessed at the shrine of Shogyo Bosatsu. The stone image of the saint stands in a little wooden shed hung round with small re- gularly cut bundles of straw. The faithful buy these at the gate, dip them in water, brush the idol with them, and then ladle water over his head, believing that this ceremony will ensure a favourable reply to their petitions. The image is con- stantly wet, showing how firm the belief is. The priests of the sect seem unable to account for the origin of the usage. The Shinto temple of Hachiman, which dates from A.D. 1668, is Sasaki. Tsukiji. 115 •handsome, owing to former Bud- dhist influence. The walls and ■ceiling are decorated with paintings •of birds and flowers, and there are also some pretty wood carvings. The ornamentation of the chancel is extremely rich, the ceiling being panelled, and gold profusely scat- tered about. There are likewise gold lions, and gold figures of the Sun-Goddess Amaterasu and of the Gods of Kasuga. Doves fly about the grounds, as is usual in temples dedicated to Hachiman. They are supposed to act as the god's mes- sengers, — strange messengers from the God of War ! The district situated between the temple of Hachiman and that of Susaki-no-Benten is noted for its trade in timber, the town being here intersected by numerous canals communicating with the river, down which come the timber-laden rafts from the inland provinces. The temple of Susaki no Benten (Susaki being the name of the pro- jecting point of land on which it is situated) dates from the latter part of the 17th century, at which time the ground on which it was erected had only recently been reclaimed.. The temple itself is uninteresting ; but on a clear day there is a good view from the embankment built after the ravages of the inundations and tidal waves of the eighth decade of the last century. At low tide, which the Japanese consider the prettiest time, and especially if the season be spring, numerous pleasure boats, with singing-girls and other merry-makers, will be seen lazily floating about in the offing, watch- ing the oyster-catchers ply their trade. 8. — Tsukiji. On the way from the Shimbashi Terminus to the Foreign Conces- sion in Tsukiji, several important modern buildings are passed : — 1. the Fifteenth National Bank, r. the Imperial Department of Communi- cations, and further on r. the De- partment of Agriculture and Com- merce, a huge building, opposite to which is the Seiyoken Hotel. Be- hind the latter stands the Kabuki- za, one of the best theatres of the metropolis. The Naval Academy is seen to the r. beyond the canal. Still further to the r. is the Enryo hwan, formerly the summer palace of the Shoguns, and more recently a place of entertainment for il- lustrious visitors. It is also used once a year for an Imperial Garden party, at the season when the masses of double cherry-flowers are in bloom. The Enryo-kwan is un- fortunately not open to the general public. To the 1. is the enclosure of the Nishi Hongioanji, popularly called the Tsukiji Monzeki, a vast temple burnt down in 1893, but likely to be rebuilt, as it belongs to the rich and powerful Monto sect. The Renge- den, or Lotus Hall, used for ser- mons, remains intact. A large proportion of the build- ings in the Foreign Concession is devoted to religious and educational purposes, testifying to the zeal of the various missionary bodies, whose members form the bulk of the population. The most striking places of worship are the Cathedral of the Protestant Episcopal Church of America and the Koman Catholic Cathedral. Another conspicuous building is the Hotel Mttropole, situated on the Bund facing the Sumida-gawa near its mouth. Be- yond the river lies Ishikawa-jima, where stands a large Convict Prison. The land is gaining rapidly on the water in this district, the whole spit opposite the Bund having been re- claimed within the last eighteen years. On a fine breezy day, the junks sailing up the river mouth add picturesque animation to the scene. 116 Route 5. — Excursions from Tokyo. ROUTE 5. EXCUBSIONS FROM TOKYO. 1. MEGUEO, YUTENJI, AND KUHON- BUTSU. 2. IKEGAMI. 3. FUTAGO AND MARIKO. 4. JUNISO, HORI-NO- UCHI, AND I-NO-KASHIRA. 5. KO- GANEI. 6. TAKAO-ZAN. 7. OJI. 8. THE CAVE-DWELLINGS NEAR KO- NOSU. 9. KONODAI. (All these places may be visited without passports, except Takao-zan, Konosu, and Konodai.) 1. Meguro, Yutenji, and Kuhon- BUTSU. Meguro {Tea-houses, *Uchida, Eashiwa-ya ; there are several others, but they are apt to be noisy) is a favourite picnic resort, 3 m. out of the city westwards by road or Suburban Railway ; but the station is about a mile from the village. Shortly after leaving the station, at the top of a descent call- ed Gydnin-zaka, one seesl. the small temple of Daienji, which deserves passing notice for the sake of the Go-hyaku Rakan, — tier upon tier of small seated Buddhist images in various attitudes of meditation, quaint yet pathetic in their stony stillness. Meguro is seen to best advantage when either the peonies or the chrysanthemums are in blossom. There are two permanent sights — the Temple of Fudo, and the graves of Gompachi and Ko- murasaki. The key to the latter is kept at the tea-house. The grave is called Hiyoku-zuka, after the hiyoku, a fabulous double bird which is an emblem of constancy in love. It may be added that sentiment is the only motive for visiting the grave, as there is really nothing to see. About 250 years ago, there lived a young man called Shirai Gompachi, who at the age of sixteen had already won a name for his skill in the use of arms, but, having had the misfortune to kill a fellow- clansman in a quarrel over a dog, was compelled to fly from his native province. While resting at an inn on his way to Yedo, a beautiful girl named Komurasaki came and awoke him at midnight, to tell him that a band of robbers, who had stolen her from her home, intended to kill him for the sake of the sword which every Samurai at that time carried. Being thus forewarn- ed, Gompachi succeeded in slaying the thieves when the attack was made upon him. He also restored the girl to her grateful father, a rich merchant, who would have been glad to make the young man his son-in-law j but being ambitious, Gompachi insisted on pursuing his way to Yedo. Meanwhile, unhappy Komura- saki was left to pine for the handsome youth with whom she had fallen deeply in love. After further adventures, Gom- pachi reached Yedo, only however to fall into dissolute habits. Hearing much praise of a lovely and accomplished girl who had lately become an inmate of the Yoshiwara, Gompachi went to see her, and was astonished to find in the famous beauty no other than the maiden whom he had but a few months before rescued from the robbers' den. It was the usual pathetic story. Her parents having be- come poverty-stricken, she had sold her- self in order to alleviate their distress. Frequent visits to his sweetheart soon exhausted Gompachi's slender means, and having no fixed employment, he was driven in desperation to murder a man for the sake of money to spend at the Yoshiwara. The crime was repeated, until he was caught red-handed, and ultimately beheaded as a common male- factor. A friend claimed the body and buried it at Meguro, whither poor Komu- rasaki hastened on hearing the sad news of her lover's end, and throwing herself on the newly-made grave, plunged a dagger into her bosom and died. At the bottom of the stops lead- ing up the temple of Fudo, is a pool fed by two tiny cascades. To stand naked under the stream of water for several hours in cold weather is considered a meritorious- penance, the effect of which is to wash away all taint of sin. Tradi- tion says that Jikaku Daishi, the founder of this temple, miraculously called the spring into existence by the aid of his mace (tokko), whence the name of Tokko-no-taki, or Mace Cascade. The most remarkable of the ex-votos is a huge sword, such as the god Fudo is often represented with. To prevent mistakes, it may here be noted that } ri from Meguro ¥©B£¥@ AM ® fa 1 .<** 7 *> Yutenji. Kuhon-butsu. Ilcegami. 117 proper, and nearer Tokyo, lies an- other village called Kami-Meguro. At the latter also there is a good spot for picnics, known as Shin-Fuji — a small artificial hill, from the top of which an extensive view is ob- tained. A third picnic resort in this neighbourhood is Sensoku, which has a pretty piece of water. It is about 1 ri from Meguro on the direct road from Tokyo to Mariko. Ten did W. of Meguro, stands in solemn solitude the handsome tem- ple of Yifiteiiji, founded in the early part of the 18th century. The art- treasures of this temple, which are set out in January, May, and Sep- tember, will well repay a visit. There are a series of kakemono by Cho Densu, paintings by Motonobu, gorgeous lacquer and bronze objects formerly belonging to the Tokugawa family, etc., etc. Among the most in- teresting curiosities, are some fine specimens of old European tapestry, which were probably presented to the Shogun by the head of the Dutch factory at Nagasaki. At other times it is difficult, if not impossible, to see these objects, as they are carefully stored away. The florist's garden in the immediate neighbourhood of Yutenji well de- serves a visit in spring. Kuhon-butsu. These temples, containing the nine large and hand- somely gilt images of Buddha from which the place derives its name, are situated in the vicinity of Meguro. The direct way is along the pretty main road to Futago — f hr. ride from the Meguro railway station, — thence for 15 min. by a path 1. across the fields which finally emerges on an avenue lead- ing to the temple buildings, charm- ingly situated amongst finely wood- ed surroundings. Kuhon-butsu be- longs to the Jodo sect of Buddhists. In the upper storey of the massive gateway repose a number of gilt, but sadly neglected, images of Kwannon. The main hall stands in the centre of the grounds, and faces the three shrines in each of which are three images — splendid specimens of the sculptor's art, and all in an excellent state of preserva- tion. A visit to Kuhon-butsu, Meguro, and Yutenji may be com- bined in one agreeable outing. 2. — Ike g ami. _ Ikeg'ami is reached by train to Omori station on the Yokohama line in \ hr., whence it is about 1 m. by jinrikisha. The great temple of Hommonji is celebrated, as the spot where the Buddhist saint Ni- chiren died in A.D. 1282. Its fine situation and magnificent timber make it one of the most attractive points within easy reach of Tokyo. The best time to visit it is on the 12th — 13th October, when the an- nual festival in Nichiren's honour takes place. On this occasion over 20,000 persons make the pilgrimage. Another festival is held from the 22nd to 28th April. At the top of the temple steps is 1. the Daimoku- do, where some of the faithful are generally to be heard beating the drum and reciting the formulary of the sect — Namu My oho Eenge Kyo. Next to this, is a temple dedi- cated to Kato Kiyomasa. Then comes the Shaka-do, or Hall of Shaka, where worshippers spend the night at the time of the annual festival, with, behind it, another building containing a complete set of the Buddhist scriptures that may be made to revolve on a huge hexagonal wheel. Fronting the gate is the main temple, recently restored in handsome style, an evidence of the popularity which this sect still enjoys. On the altar stands an exquisitely lacquered shrine, containing a life-size image of Nichiren in sitting posture, said to have been carved by Nichiro, one of his chief disciples. The upper part of the wall is decorated with pictures of angels pla}'ing on musical instruments. Behind the altar, outside the temple, is a pictorial representation of the chief incidents in the saint's life. The 118 Boute 5. — Excursions from Tokyo. extensive buildings at the rear are the residences of the abbot and monks. Although Nichiren died at Ikegami, his bones were conveyed to Minobu ; all that remain here are one tooth and the ashes of his funeral pyre. The shrine (Kotstc-do) containing these relics is a short way down the hill to the 1. This building, about 20 ft. in diameter, stands on a huge lotus-flower of stone. (For plan of Ikegami see p. 37). One may picnic either at the tea- house (Tamba-ya) in the village, or (but in this case notice must be sent the day before, as the matter is more or less one of favour) at Eijuin, a temple in the wood behind the pagoda, having beautiful plum-trees and peonies, besides a fine view. The imposing-looking tomb in the temple garden is that of a Daimyo's wife. A third place, immediately below the pagoda, is the immense tea-house of Akebono-ro, popularly- known as Ikegami Onsen. It is quite a curiosity, sprawling as it does up and down two hills by means of galleries and bridges, which remind the beholder of scenes in Chinese art. This tea-house is a favourite native holiday resort. 3. — FOTAGO AND MAEIKO. Fiitag'O (Inn, Kame-ya) lies on the banks of the Tamagawa, 2j ri by jinrikisha from Tokyo. Just before reaching the river, there is a striking view of Fuji and a pano- rama of the surrounding country. During the summer months, the Japanese visit Futago for the sake of the sport — if so it can be termed — of watching fishermen net the ayu (or ai), a kind of trout. A little higher up, at Sekido, cormorant fishing is practised on a small scale (comp. Route 34). One ri down the river from Futago lies Mrtriko (Inn, Wakamatsu-ya, on the Tokyo side), a place of similar character. An alternative way of returning to Tokyo is to take boat down the river to Kawasaki station, which is about 2 hrs. from Futago. The distance by the direct jinriki- sha road from Mariko to Tokyo is 2 ri 30 did. 4. — JUNISO, HORI-NO-UCHI, AND I-NO-KASHIRA. Jiiniso. Train to Shinjiku sta- tion on the Suburban Line, or jin- rikisha all the way. Crossing the railway, the extensive works seen on the 1. are those of the new water- works for the supply of Tokydj whence, proceeding along the Ome Kaido for 10 min., the path to Juniso turns 1. through the fields, and in 10 min. more a short avenue of pines is reached, leading to the small and deserted temple of Juniso Gongen. Below the temple lies a small lake, plentifully stocked with a species of carp. Several tea-sheds stand at the upper end. Juniso is a favourite spot for pleasure parties during the summer months. Hori-no-nchi may be reached in f hr. from Juniso. A lane directly behin_d the tea-sheds soon rejoins the Ome Kaido, along which we proceed for J hr., to leave it again by a path 1., at the corner of which is a pretty plum orchard. A short distance beyond, the path turns sharp r., where a stone indicates the distance to Hori-no-uchi as 16 did. From here an avenue of double cherry-trees is lined with shops for the sale of rosaries, salted plums, toys, etc. The temple of Myohdji at Hori-no-uchi, belonging to the Nichiren sect, merits a visit for the sake of the excellent carvings that adorn the main building — those of dragons in the porch, below the architrave, and in the eaves being especially spirited. The iron gates and railing to the r. of the main entrance are good specimens of modern workmanship. On the 1. of the court, is a long shed filled with a curious collection of ex-votos, such as the queues of men whose prayers have been granted by the inter- position of Nichiren, oil-paintings, etc. In the main hall, a splendid Hori-no-uchi. I-no-kashira. Koganei. 119 shrine 5 ft. square and 10 ft. long, covered with gilt carvings, occupies the centre of the further side of the chancel. It contains a seated image of Nichiren, said to be the earliest effigy of the saint, and to have been carved in A.D. 1261. It can be seen and a short service in its honour witnessed, on payment of a small fee. The principal festival is held on the 13th October, the anniversary of Nichiren's death. A polite request will generally gain permission to visit the lovely landscape garden attached to the main temple. Half a ri further on is the once noted temple of Omiya Hachiman, founded in the 10th century, but now terribly decayed. A stately avenue of cryptomerias and maple- trees, together with several torii, attest its former importance. Proceeding through the flat fields for 3J m. further, we reach the Temple of Benten, picturesquely situated on the borders of the little lake of I-no-kashira, whose waters, derived from seven small springs, supply the aqueduct leading to Kanda in Tokyo. History says that in 1600 the lake was visited by leyasu, who found the water so excellent that it was used ever after for making His Highness' s tea. In 1639 his grandson, the Shogun Ieinitsu, gave orders for the water to be laid on to the Castle in Yedo. He also, on the occasion of a visit to the lake, carved with the small knife from his dirk the head of a wild boar (i no kashira) on the trunk of a tree close by, whence the present name. It was not, however, till about 1653 that the aqueduct was constructed. I-no-kashira attracts visitors chiefly in April for the cherry- blossoms, and in May for the azaleas. The best way_to return to Tokyo is to regain the Ome Kaido, 40 min., whence it is about 2 ri to Shinjiku station. After bad weather the roads are heavy throughout. 5. — Koganei. Koganei, with its fine avenue of cherry-trees iij m. in length, along the banks of the small canal that conducts the waters of the Tama- gawa to Tokyo, is about 1J ri beyond I-no-kashira, but should only be visited when the trees are in blos- som. It is most easily reached by train to Sakai on the Hachioji line, \ hr. from Shinjiku Junction, and \ hr. distant from the avenue. Ten thousand young trees were brought from Yoshino in Yamato, and from the banks of the Sakura-gawa in Hitachi, and planted here in 1735 by command of the Shogun Yoshimune. The crowds that assemble daily to revel under the shade of the pink and white blossoms about the middle of April, present a gay spectacle. Instead of returning to Sakai, it will be found shorter to walk on to Kokubunji station, which is only about 20 min. from the upper end of the avenue. A pleasant alterna- tive plan is to return by jinrikisha via I-no-kashira and Hori-no-uchi, 3 hrs. to Shinjiku station. — By the Shinjiku - Hachioji Kailway to Takao-zan. Names 12'S 5 of Remarks. ft m Stations. SHINJIKU Jet. 3 m. Nakano. ( Alight for cherry 10 Sakai j avenue of Ko- ganei. 13 Kokubunji. ( Alight for Tama- 17 Tachikawa < gawa Valley, Route 26. 19 Hino. 23 HACHIOJI. This is a favourite excursion in spring and autumn with holiday- makers from Tokyo. The railway journey to Hachioji occupies \\ hr., whence it is 2ri along the plain to the foot of Takao-zan. Jinrikishas and baslia traverse this distance in about 1 hr. The railway track, after leaving Shinjiku, lies for a short distance close to the Florists' Gardens of 120 Route 5. — Excursions from Tokyo. Okubo, noted for their azaleas, the rest of the route passing mostly over a flat country with heavy, clayey soil. The Tamagawa and one of its affluents are crossed before reaching Hacllioji (Inn, Kado-ya), the centre of an important silk district, but otherwise uninteresting. One long and broad street forms the business part of the town. A short distance beyond the vil- lage of Komagino, the path lead- ing up Takao-zan turns off r. from the main road, and crosses the stream, from which point to the temple buildings is a walk of about 1 hr. Takao-zan is a high hill rising some 1,600 ft. above the sea. On the summit stands a much frequent- ed temple, surrounded by a splendid grove, chiefly of cryptomerias, planted in past times by de- votees of the temple. The road is lined with posts on which are recorded the names of persons who have presented young trees, so many hundreds at a time, with the object of maintaining the grove undimi- nished. On the platform at the top of the ascent, stands a fine bronze pagoda, 12 ft. in height. Above this, on another terrace, are three shrines dedicated toFudo, Yakushi, and Dainichi, and at the top of a long flight of steps is a gaudily decorated Shinto shrine with paint- ed carvings. The annual festival takes place on the 21st April. Trees shut out the view from this point ; but lower down a space has been cleared, from which the eye ranges over the plain of Tokyo and the sea in the distance. A narrower and steeper path than that ascended may be taken on the way down, and affords pretty glimpses of the densely wooded valley. 7.— Oji. Oji. — The vill. of Oji, long one of the favourite retreats in the sub- urbs of Tokyo, now presents more the aspect of a manufacturing cen- tre than of a holiday resort. Huge brick buildings, paper and cotton mills, the clash of machinery, and lofty chimneys from which columns of smoke sweep over the cherry-trees on Asuka-yama, deprive the place of much of its former tranquillity and beauty. Oji is, nevertheless, still one of the attractions in the envi- rons of the great city ; and crowds flock there twice yearly, — in spring when the cherry-trees are in blossom, and in autumn when the maples lining the banks of the Taki-no- gaiva put on their crimson tints. The train from Ueno station lands one in a few minutes close to the noted tea-houses, Ogi-ya and Ebi-ya, which stand together on the edge of the stream, and look out on a small but tastefully arranged garden. Half a mile beyond the tea-houses, in a grove of evergreen oaks on the top of a slight eminence, stands the Temple of InarL The buildings consist of a rather dilapidated oratory and chapel. In the court- yard are some fine old cherry-trees. The temple and little waterfall dedi- cated to Fudo, also in the vicinity of the tea-houses, attract many visitors. As the trains are gene- rally full to overflowing during the cherry and maple seasons, some visitors may prefer to go out by road. The prettiest way, 5 m., leaves the little lake at Ueno, and passing through the suburb of Shimo Komagome, turns to the r. on reaching the tomb of the Dai- myo of Kaga, descends the hill, and follows up the valley to the 1. 8.— The Caves (Hyaku Ana) near Konosu. These interesting artificial Caves are situated at Kita Yoshimi-mura in the prefecture of Saitama, and are within the limits of a short day's excursion from Tokyo. Konosu is reached in 1J hr. by train from Ueno station. The road to Kita Yoshimi-mura, 2^ ri distant, crosses the railway line not far from the station, and runs over the plain Caves of Konosn. Konodai. 121 straight towards the Chichibu mountains. It is a good jinrikisha road, though apt in parts to be heavy after rain. Kita Yoshimi-mura nestles under the first hilly ground met with on the road. At the further end of the village, the path to the caves turns r. On the way, a quaint old temple of Kwannon, worthy a few minutes' attention, is passed. It is wedged in between rocks, from the inner side of which an entrance leads to a chamber containing a number of stone images of Kwannon. A few yards beyond stands the office of the local author- ities, by whom the place is now maintained. These officials will furnish a guide to the caves hard by. The whole hillside is honey- combed with these relics of a remote -antiquity, whose origin and use have given occasion to controversy amongst the learned. Mr. Aston, the pioneer in Japanese ar- chaeological research, declares that there is good reason to believe that the caves were primarily intended for sepulchres, although some were doubtless used as shelters by beggars and outlaws at a later period; while Dr. Tsuboi, of the Imperial University of Japan, an energe- tic worker in the same field, and the dis- coverer of most of the caves at Yoshimi- mura, maintains that they were the habita- tions of the beings whom the Japanese term "earth-spiders." The original Japanese word is tmehi-gumo. There is consider- able doubt as to its etymology, though every one agrees in interpreting it to mean a race of cave-dwelling savages. Motoori, the greatest of all Japanese literati, explains the name by a com- parison of the habits of the race in ques- tion with those of the spider. But it is surely more rational to regard the word tmchi-gumo as a corruption of tsuchi-go- mori, " earth-Aiders," than which no name could be more appropriate to troglodytes. These people, who were widely spread over Japan in prehistoric times, were probably the ancestors of the modern Ainos. One of the earliest Japanese his- tories describes them as "short in stature, and having long arms and legs like pigmies." Jimmu Tenno is said to have massacred a number of them in one of their cave-dwellings. The caves, most of which face due S., are believed to number two hundred and thirty-seven in all. The entrances are about 3 ft. square ; then comes a passage of 6 ft. and upwards in length, leading to a second doorway within which are the chambers. These are of various sizes, many being 6 ft. square, and from 5 to 6 ft. high. The ceilings are dome-shaped. Each chamber contains one or two ledges having slightly raised edges. Traces of the use of tools are visible on the walls. Iron rings, arrow-heads, etc., have been found in some of the caves ; but the presence of these is doubtless due to the fact, as local tradition asserts, that parties of fighting men took refuge here in more modern times. The hill affords an extensive view of the adjacent mountains, including Buko-zan in the Chichibu range, Fuji, and Asama-yama. The town of Matsu- yama (Inn, K6ji-ya) is only 13 cho distant. It contains a large Shinto temple to the gods of Inari, called the Yakyu Inari. 9. — Konodai. Omnibuses ply constantly between Ryogoku-bashi and the Ichikawa ferry, 3 ri 25 cho (9 m.), a Treaty Limit boundary where passports have to be shown. Konodai, pro- perly Mama Konodai (Inn, Musa- shi-ya, close to the ferry), is the bluff on the opposite side of the Yedo-gawa, \ m. above the ferry, and used to be a favourite resort of holiday-makers from Tokyo. It was the site of a strong fortress held by Satomi Awa-no-Kami, from whom it was captured and razed to the ground by the powerful Hojo family of Odawara, in 1564. A Military Academy for cadets of all branches of the service is now located here, detracting from the ad- vantages of Konodai as a place for picnics. The situation affords a pleasing view of the plain, with Fuji and the Oyama range in the back- ground. Pretty also is the view of the fleet of boats sailing up the river before a brisk breeze. The whole site is thickly overgrown with tress and rank vegetation ; 122 Route 6. — Miyanoshita and Hakone. but a priest from the dilapidated monastery of Sonenji, which stands within the same enclosure, will act as guide and point out various objects of interest, including the tomb of Ogasawara Sadayori, the discoverer of the Bonin Islands. Afterwards, a visit should be paid to the temple of Kolidji in the near vicinity, noted for the richness of its maple tints in autumn. Down the steps on the hill-side, stands a shrine dedicated to a beautiful girl called Mama-no-Tekona, who, for reasons which tradition does not assign, drowned herself in the swamp close by. The story of Mama-no-Tekona was al- ready an aocient one in the 8th century. The unfortunate maiden is much prayed to by women for safe delivery in child- birth. ROUTE 6. The Hakone Disteict : Miyano- shita, Hakone. 1. geneeal infoemation. 2. miya- noshita and neighbouehood. 3. hakone and neighbouehood. 1. — Geneeal Inpoemation. This route is specially recom- mended, as uniting charm of scenery, accessibility, and an un- usual degree of comfort. All tourists arriving at Yokohama are advised to devote a week to it, and if they have not so much time at their disposal, then to devote two or three days to a portion of it. Even should they be disinclined for walking and sightseeing, they will find no place more pleasant for idling in at all seasons than Miya- noshita. The word Hakone, it should be observed, though employed by us, as by all Euro- peans, to denote the village called by the Japanese Hakone-no-shukit , Hakone-no-eki , or Hakone-mura, is properly the general, name of the entire mountainous district lying at the neck of the peninsula of Izu, between the Bays of Odawara and Suru- ga. For this reason the Japanese talk of Miyanoshita, Kiga, etc., as being "in Hakone." The original name of Hakone Lake (now, however, used only in poetry) is Ashi-no-Umi, that is, the Sea of Reeds. Hence the name of the hot springs of Ashinoyn. The lake measures, in round numbers, If ri long, 4| ri round, and has a depth of 37 fathoms in its deepest part. The following are the heights of the chief villages and mountains mentioned in this route : — Ashinoyu t 2,870 feet. Dai-ga-take 3,500 ,, Dogashima 1,080 ,, Futago-yama 3,620 ,, Hakone 2,400 „ Higane (temple near Atami) 2,400 „ Kamiyama 4,770 ,, Kiga 1,400 „ Kintoki-zan 4,060 „ Kojigoku (Kowaki-dani). 2,100 ,, Koma-ga-take 4,500 „ Miyagino 1,500 ,, Miyanoshita 1,400 ,, Myojin-ga-take 3,880 „ Myojo-ga-take 3,080 ,, Ojigoku 3,466 „ Otome-tdge 3,333 „ Saijoji (Doryo-san) 1,240 „ Sengoku-hara 2,170 ,, Ten Province Pass .... 3,216 ,, Ubago 2,940 „ Yumoto 400 „ 2. — Miyanoshita and Neighbor- hood. Miyanoshita is easily reached from Yokohama by the Tokaido Railway to Kozu station, 1J hr.; thence by tram, jinrikisha, or car- riage to Yumoto, 1 hr.; thence by jinrikisha (at least two men neces- sary) or on foot, for 1J ri up the valley of the Hayakawa to Miyano- shita, nearly 1 hr. by jinrikisha, 1J hr. on foot — say 4j hrs. for the whole journey, including stoppages. Prom Tokyo it is 1 hr. more, or 5£ hrs. in all. Way to Miyanoshita, 128 Team Itineeary along Plain. Kozu to : — Bi. Clio. M. Odawara 1 28 4-J Yumoto 2 10 5 J Total 4 2 10 Walking or Jinrikisha Itinerary up the Hill. Yumoto to : — Bi. Cho. M. Tonosawa 6J \ Miyanoshita 1 16| 3£ {Kiga 9 \ Miyagino 5 J) Total 2 1 5 At Kozu (Inn, Kozu-kwan), it is worth devoting a few minutes to walking out on the beach to look at the beautiful view of Odawara Bay, with to the r. the peninsula of Izu on whose coast Atami_ is situated, ahead the volcano of Oshima (Vries Island), and the islet of Enoshima to the 1. Turning round, one has a magnificent view of Fuji. The road from Kozu to Yumoto — the old T6- kaido — leads past (about 1 m.) the Shoto-en, an inn situated on the beach, with detached apartments and good bathing. It is patronised by the higher official class. Half- way we pass through the town of Odawara (Inn, Koise-ya), cele- brated in Japanese history as the scene of many bloody conflicts in feudal times. Odawara belonged successively to vari- ous families of Dahnyos, who dwelt in the castle which was not finally destroyed till the time of the late revolution. The most celebrated of these families were the Hojo, a younger branch of the family of " Regents," who ruled over Japan during the 13th century and the first three decades of the 14th. This younger branch, choosing Odawara as their capital in A.D. 1495, continued to reside there for five generations, namely, till 1590, when they were defeated and the power of their house broken for ever by the Taiko Hide- yoshi in the . battle of Ishikake-yama. Retiring to their castle, the various com- manding officers on the Hojo side could come to no agreement, as time wore on, as to whether it were better to await the onslaught of the enemy, or to sally forth themselves and offer battle. While they were still discussing this question in all its bearings, Hideyoshi made a sudden attack and captured the castle by a coup de main. Hence the proverbial saying, Odawara hybgi, that is, the Odawara Con- ference, which means endless talk result- ing in nothing. The tram-cars change horses op- posite the ruined walls of the castle. On leaving Odawara, the road enters the valley of the Hayakaiva near the mouth of that stream, which takes its origin in Lake Hakone. The two round summits seen almost constantly ahead are Futago-yama, or the Twin Moun- tains. The avenue to the r. of the tram road marks the Tokaido, which carriages and jinrikishas still follow. Near Yumoto (10 min. out of the vill.), is a cascade known as Tamadare no tahi. A small fee is charged for admittance. Yumoto boasts a large inn, called Fukuzumi. Foreigners obliged to break the journey are, however, advised to push on 6J cho further to the vill. of Tonosawa, where the Tamano- yu Hotel will be found a pleasanter abode, owing to the fact that Euro- pean food and beds are provided. There are also good hot springs. The white building, which strikes the eye on the hill opposite, is a Russian chapel. The mosaic wood- work (kiji-mono), which from Yu- moto onwards fills such a prominent place in every shop-window, is the specialty for which the whole Hakone district is noted. The hamlet more than half-way up from Yumoto to Miyanoshita is Ohirailai. On the r. side is a good wood-work shop, Watanabe, whose specialty is the fine bamboo basket-work of Shizuoka. Miyanoshita (Hotels, *Fuji-ya, in European style ; Nara-ya) is a pleasant resort for many reasons — the purity of the air, the excellence of the hotel accommodation, the numerous pretty walks both short and long, the plentiful supply of " chairs " and of specially large and 124 Route 6. — Miyanoshita and Hakone. comfortable kagos for those who prefer being carried, and the deli- cious hot baths, which, containing but faint traces of salt and soda, may be used without medical advice. The upper portion of the vill. is called Sokokura. The principal short walks from Miyanoshita are: — 1. To Xiga (distance, 9 cho, say J hr.) : — no climbing, view of fine gorge of the Jakotsu-gawa from bridge just below Sokokura, Jakotsu-gawa means literally " Stream of the Serpent's Bones." The name is given to this romantic gorge on account of some white stones found higher up, and popularly believed to be the bones of dead serpents. waterfalls, tame gold-fish to feed with cakes at the favourite Sengoku- ya tea-house. Kiga was formerly an agreeable summer resort, but has never recovered the destructive fire of 1892. Looking back from here, one sees the tea-house of Mi-harashi perched high up the steep hill- side. Paths lead up to it from the main road. Equally flat and pleasant road 5 cho further up the valley of the Hayakawa to Miyagino, a vill. built on both sides of the stream. 2. To Dogasliima, a hamlet some few hundred yards below Miyano- shita, down a steep ravine. Here are a pretty cascade and a charm- ing villa, permission to visit which may sometimes be obtained through the proprietor of the Fujiya Hotel. 3. Walk down the main road in the direction of Tonosawa to the toll-house (8 J cho), or on to Ollira- dai (17 cho). 4. Climb half-way up Setigetl- yama, the wooded hill immediately at the back of the Japanese wing of the Fuji-ya Hotel. It is a steep pull of 20 min. or J hr. to the tea-shed, 650 ft. above the village, whence beautiful view of upper half of Fuji. This walk may be con- tinued along the ridge in the direc- tion of Asbinoyu. Somewhat longer (1 to 2 hrs.), less good walking, but very pic- turesque are : — 5. To Kiga and Miyagino, as in No. 1 ; then cross the river and turn sharp to the r., walking home on the other side, and re-crossing to the Miyanoshita side at Dogashima. Guide indispensable. This, the most beautiful of all the walks near Miyanoshita, takes a good walker a little over 1 hr. 6. Up to Kojigoku (Kowaki- dani), then down past the hamlet of Ninotaira to Miyagino and Kiga, whence home by the main road. This walk may be abridged by turn- ing to the r. before reaching Koji- goku, almost all the paths r. leading down ultimately to the Kiga road. Many persons elect to stay at Koji- goku rather than at Miyanoshita, as the former place is some 700 ft. higher, and consequently has cooler air. The Kaikiuatei Hotel offers European comforts and excellent baths. The 15 cho (1 m.) from Miya- noshita to Kojigoku is done on foot or in kago. The meaning of the name Kojigoku is Small Hell. It was given to the place in allusion to some small sulphur springs, which supply the hotel baths. In 1877, on the occasion of the visit of H. M. the Mikado, the name of Kojigoku was officially altered to KotcaH-dani, which means the Valley of the Lesser Boiling. But the older name is in common use. Good half-day's excursions are to:— 7. Ojigokll, or Big Hell, alter- natively named Owaki-dani, i.e., the Valley of the Greater Boiling — dis- tance, a little under 2 ri to the top of the gorge. Neither name is a mis- j nomer. The whole gorge reeks with sulphurous fumes, vegetation decreases as one ascends higher, and the aspect of the scene becomes weird and desolate. It is advisable to keep to the path and tread care- fully after the guide, as more lives i than one have been sacrificed by a false step on the treacherous crust. The view from the top of the gorge Walks at Miyanoshita, Ashinoyu. 125 differs as widely in its charms from the scene of desolation just traversed as can well be imagined. In the cen- tre, Fuji towers up in perfect beauty. To the extreme r. is tooth-shaped Kintoki-zan, then the Otome-toge, the Nagao-toge, and to the 1. the more imposing slopes of Ashitaka. The summit of Kammuri-ga-take, which rises up immediately behind the sulphur springs, distinguishes itself by its graceful outline and by the dense forest covering its sides. The vegetation of this neighbourhood is remarkable, consisting as it does chiefly of the small box and asemi (Andromeda japonica). Ojigoku looks wildest on a gloomy day. 8. Up Myojo-ga-take, or Muko- yama, the big grassy hill immediate- ly opposite Miyanoshita, on the left side of the stream. It is a walk of \\ hr. to the top, the path at first leading down through the vill. of Dogashima, there crossing the stream, and then turning con- siderably to the r., before turning 1. again along the crest of the hill. The view from the summit is magni- ficent. In the centre is Fuji, the depression immediately in front of which is the Otome-toge ; then to the r. Kintoki and_Myojin-ga-take, behind which rise Oyama and Tan- zawa ; in the plain the Sakawa- gawa, and behind it the low range of Sogayama, in which a red treeless patch marks the Kozu railway station. The town of Oda- wara can be seen by walking back a few yards ; then the sea with Oshima, and to the r. the low slope of Ishikake-yama ; then Futago- yama, Koma-ga-take, Kamiyama, and Dai-ga-take. The blear spot on Kamiyama is the solfatara of S6-on Jigoku. Still further to the r., in the blue distance, is Ashitaka- yama. The best time to view this scene is at sunrise or at sunset. The coolie should therefore carry a lan- tern, either for the first or for the last portion of the walk. Those who are willing to face a very stony path for the sake of continued beautiful views, are advised to return via Miyagino and Kiga. The whole expedition will then occupy 3 J hrs., including a short rest at the sum- mit. The following are whole day. ex- cursions : — 9. To Ashinoyu and Hakone (1 ri 8 did to Ashinoyu, thence a little over 1 ri on to Hakone, say 5J m. altoge- ther). Ashinoyu (Inns, Matsuzaka- ya, foreign food and beds ; Kinokuni- ya) is famous for its sulphur springs, whose efficacy in the treatment of skin diseases and rheumatism at- tracts crowds of Japanese patients and not a few foreigners, despite the bleak uninviting appearance of the locality. Ashinoyu is very cool in summer, owing to its height, but pays for this advantage by being frequently enveloped in mist. The road thither, about half of which is a stiff pull, leads close by Kojigoku. Just before reaching Ashinoyu, to- wards the end of a steep climb called the Nana-wawari, or Seven Turnings, the guide should be told to lead over a small eminence known as Benten-yama. It is not at all out of the way, and offers a splendid view — Odawara Bay, the peninsula of Misaki with Enoshima like a little knob on the coast ; and be- yond that, Tokyo Bay and the blue outline of the provinces of Kazusa and Boshu, which divide Tokyo Bay from the Pacific. The principal mountain to the 1. is Oshima, bluntly triangular in shape. Turn- ing round, one has Futago to the 1., Koma-ga-take and Kamiyama to the right. Ashinoyu itself Las no view, as it lies in a marshy depres- sion, though on the top of a hill. [On a hill 8 did, say J hr., beyond Ashinoyu, at a place called Yu-no-hana-zawa, a bathing establishment with very strong sulphur baths was opened a few years ago. It commands a fine view, similar to that from Benten-yama. This walk, and that along the flat in the direc- 126 Route 6. — Miyanoshita and Hakone. tion of Hakone, are the two best for invalids staying at Ashinoyu. From Yu-no-hana- zawa it is a rough climb of 1J hr. up Kamiyama, the central and highest peak of the Hakone range, the way — we purposely say " way," for there is not always a path — lying first among long grass, and then through scrub. An old crater is traversed before reaching the summit, which commands a grander panorama than any other in this district. Fuji towers to the N.W., flanked by the snowy summits of the Koshu mountains to the r. and the Shinshu moun- tains to the 1. Further 1. is Ashitaka-yama, then the blue Gulf of Suruga with its line of surf, and the narrow pine-clad promontory of Mio-no-Matsu- bara shutting in Shimizu Bay. Next comes the peninsula of Izu with the Amagi-san range, Hatsushima near Atami, smok- ing Vries Island and the smaller islands of Toshima, Niijima, etc., forming with it and with more distant Hachijo the " Seven Isles of Izu ; " Sagami Bay, with the town of Oda- wara, the River Sakawa, Eno- shima, and the promontory of Misaki, with the further promontory of Sunosaki in Boshu behind ; the plain that stretches towards Fujisawa, Oyama, and the Tanzawa range. All the summits of the Hakone range are grouped in the nearer distance at the spectator's feet. Between him and Fuji is a ridge, the three lowest points of which are the Otome-toge, Nagao-toge, and Fukara-toge. The grassy summit on the other (southern) side is Koma-ga-take with Futago - yama behind, while Tatko-yama and Ishikake- yama stretch behind that again like a long wall. Miyanoshita, too, is visible on this side. Taiko-yama, or Taiko-michi, be it observed, takes its name from a tradition to the effect that the Taikd Hideyoshi led his troops along it when going to fight the battle of Ishikake-yama. The way was shown him — so it is alleged— by a hunter, whom he thereupon killed, in order to make sure that the enemy should not profit by the poor fellow's local knowledge. The descent from the summit of Kamiyama to Yu-no-hana- zawa will take f hr. The whole expedition from Miyano- shita and back may be done in 5 hrs. Its roughness makes it unsuitable for ladies, and there is a short bit, just beyond Yu-no-hana-zawa, where people with weak heads are apt to feel dizzy.] After leaving Ashinoyu, the path is at first level, and then descends most of the way to Hakone. The first object of interest passed is, 1., a set of three small stone monu- ments dedicated to the Soga Brethren and to Tora Gozen (see p. 64). A few yards further on, to the 1. and half-hidden among the grass and bushes, is a block of andesite rock well-worth pausing a moment to inspect, as it is covered with Bud- dhist images carved in relief. These images are known as the Ni-ju-go Bosatsu, that is, the Twenty-rive Bosatsu ; but which of the many thousands of these divine beings they are intended to represent, is uncertain. The carving apparently dates only from A.D. 1293, though attributed to Kobo Daishi. Two or three of the images at the top are unfinished. According to a legend still credited by the country-folk, Kobo Daishi had carved the other twenty-two during a single night ; but as day broke before the completion of his labours, the rest perforce remained incomplete. But the chief curiosity on the road is the large Image of Jizo (Rokudo no Jizo) carved in relief on a block of andesite, and ranking among the triumphs of the Japanese chisel. Tradition has it that the great Futago-yama . Koma-ga-take. 127 Buddhist saint, KoboDaishi, carved this image also in a single night. A festival in its honour is celebrated yearly on the 23rd August. [Some way beyond this large image, a path up Futago-yama ( Uwa-Futago) Futago-yama, lit. Twin Mountain, is a favourite designation for such double peaks. turns of! to the 1. The ascent, which will take a good walker 20 min. or ^ hr. from this spot, is worth making — per- haps most conveniently as a separate walk from Miyanoshita or from Hakone — the ancient crater (now thickly carpeted with moss and overgrown with bushes and trees) being re- markably extensive, and the view from its upper rim, which is clear of wood, being very fine. The chief points seen are almost the same as those enumerated above under the heading of Kamiyama. It is possible to ascend the further summit of Futago-yama (Shi- ta-Futago) ; but the labour is not repaid, as the summit it- self is covered with trees and bushes that shut out all view. Koma-ga-take, also, may be ascended r. from near the large image of Jizo, but is rather less worth climbing than Futago- yama or Kamiyama, as the plateau-like nature of the top makes it impossible to take in the whole of the view from any single spot. It has, however, the advantage of showing Fuji from peak to base. Time, 1 \ hr. A boulder at the top of Koma-ga- take is the subject of a curious superstition. Tt is believed that the water contained in the hollows of this boulder never runs dry ; and the peasants of the surrounding country make pilgrimages to it in seasons of drought, in order to obtain rain by scattering the drops about to the four winds. But if any of the water be taken down the mountain, the re- sult is a typhoon. Koma-ga-take may also be as- cended from a point nearer the vill. of Ashinoyu ; but the climb is then considerably steeper.] The two meres (Shoni-ga-ike and Nazuna-ga-ike), r. and 1. on the way between Ashinoyu and Hakone, are the remains of ancient craters. Shoni-ga-ike generally offers fair skating in the winter. The first hamlet reached on getting to the lake is Moto-Hakone, 15 cho this side of Hakone itself. The Tsuji- ya Inn, pleasantly situated on the border of the lake, commands the best view of Fuji to be had in this neighbourhood. Instead of returning to Miyano- shita by the way one has come, it will be found pleasant in warm weather to take a boat from Hako- ne (or from Moto-Hakone, which shortens the expedition by one mile) to a spot called Shin-yu at the far-end of the lake — Umi-jiri, lit. "sea-end," as it is also termed, where was formerly a tea-house now burnt down. Alighting there, we go past the little bathing village of Ubago, up_ the spur separating the lake from Ojigoku, and return home to Miyanoshita by the Ojigoku way, as in walk No. 7. Those who have done the expedition, not on foot, but in chairs or kagos, can take these conveyances with them in the boat, and can be carried most of the way home from Shin-yu. It is only necessary to walk over the danger- ous portion of the Ojigoku gorge. Instead of taking a boat, some may prefer to follow the path along the edge of the lake. The distances, if this extension be adopted, are : Miyanoshita to : — Bi. Cho. M. Ashinoyu 1 8 3 Moto-Hakone 23 1£ Hakone 15 1 Umijiri 1 18 3f Ubago 12 f Ojigoku 8 i Miyanoshita 1 34 4f Total 6 10 15J 128 Route 6. — Miyanoshita and Hakone. 10. Up half-way to Ashinoyu, as far as two little tea-houses beside a brook, known as Ike-jiri ; thence sharp 1. for 30 did down a steep and stony but picturesque path, which passes through the vill. of Kata on the old Tokaido. The return to Miyanoshita is _made via Yumoto, Tonosawa, and Ohiradai— total dis- tance, about 5 ri. The first portion of the descent is called Takizaka, or Cascade Hill, on account of a pretty cascade seen to the r. about two-thirds of the way down. There is another path to Hata 1., just be- fore the final climb to Ashinoyu, which joins the Takizaka path ; but this makes the walk some 10 did longer. 11. To the top of the Otome- toge, or Maiden's Pass, distant 2% ri (6 m.), whence can be gained the nearest and most complete view of Fuji and of the plain at its base. The path is not steep, excepting some 8 did in the middle up a hill called the Usui-tdge (by foreigners, " the Corkscrew "), and 11 did at the end. It is possible, however, except for unusually heavy persons, to be carried the whole way in a chair. The path leads through Kiga and Miyagino, crosses the Hayakawa, and continues up the valley to the vill. of Sengoku, noted for its cattle- farm, extensive for Japan, whence the Miyanoshita hotels are supplied with milk and butter. [From Sengoku, it is possible to ascend Kintoki-zan. The dis- tance to the summit is estimat- ed at 25 did, and the climb is very steep in some places. The people of the surrounding coun- try-side ascend Kintoki - zan annually on the 17th day of the 3rd moon, old style, on which day the festival of I-no- hana (" the boar's nose ") is held on the summit. The name of the mountain is derived from that of Kintoki, a mighty hunter of legendary fame.] The climb up the Otome-t5ge commences shortly after leaving Sengoku. The labour it entails is amply repaid by the view from the gap forming the pass. Persons with sufficient time will do well to climb up the hill to the r., from whose top are visible the snow-clad peaks of the mountains of Koshu and Shin- shu. It is also possible to walk 1. along the ridge to the Nagao-tdge, the first J hr's. scramble through difficult scrub being rewarded by a glorious view from the open summit of the Nagao-dai. In this case the return is made via the farm. — To travel out to Miyanoshita via the Otome-toge, is a pleasant alternative route for those who intend visiting this district a second time. Instead of alighting at Kozu, one continues in the train as far as the station of Gotemba, situated in the plain at Fuji's base. From Gotemba it is 2 J ri to the top of the pass. The first portion of the way may be done by jinrikisha. Gotemba is also the nearest station for travellers coming up the Tokaido Kailway from Kobe, bound for Miyanoshita. But if they have much luggage or object to walking, they should go on to Kozu, whence the facilities for proceeding to Miyanoshita are greater. 12. To the vill. of Sengoku, as in the preceding walk ; there cross the river to the deeply wooded hill of I)ai-ga-take ; then through the hamlet of Yuba which has mineral springs, again crossing and re-cross- ing the river to Miyagino and Kiga, and so home. The park-like scenery about Dai-ga-take and Yuba differs from that of the other walks in the neighbourhood of Miyanoshita, and offers much plea- sant shade besides delightful dis- tant glimpses. Path, fairly good. Time, 2 hrs. from Sengoku, or 4 hrs. altogether. 13. To the Buddhist temple of Saijftji, sometimes called Ddryo- san, distant 3 ri. Though placed last, this expedition is perhaps the most delightful of all ; for it alone Saijoji (Dor yd -san). 129 includes architectural beauties as well as beauties of nature. The path, after passing through Kiga and Miyagino and crossing the Hayakawa, leads up to a grassy plateau near the summit of Mydjin- ga-take, — not to be confounded with the Myojo-ga-take of Walk No. 8. (Though kagos go this way, horses cannot. Riders therefore have to go round via Yagura-zaioa, which increases the distance by about a couple of miles.) Tell the guide to lead to the spot, not far out of the way, whence may best be seen the superb view : — on the one hand, the sCa, with Vries Island, the pen- insula of Boshu, and the nearer peninsula of Sagami, the plain of Sagami watered by the rivers Ba- nyu and Sakawa, the mountain ranges of Oyama, Kurakake, Tan- zawa, Sobutsu, Yagura-ga-take, and many of the mountains of Koshu ; on the other, the wooded heights beyond the Hakone pass which dwarf the nearer ridge of Takanosu ; then turning towards the r., double- crested Futago-yama, Koma-ga- take, Kammuri-ga-take, and the long ridge to the W. of Hakone which terminates in Kintoki-zan ; and above and beyond all, the gigantic cone of Fuji. From this point it is a descent, Saijoji being- even lower down on the far side of the mountain than Miyanoshita is on the near. Before reaching it, the open moorland of the hillside is exchanged for a magnificent forest of pines and cryptomerias, with an undergrowth of beautiful flowering shrubs — deutzia, azalea, pyrus ja- ponica, aucuba, etc., according to the season. The monastery of Saijoji, which be- longs to the Soto sect of Buddhists, was founded by a hermit named Ryoan, who died A.D. 1401 ; but it owes its special reputation for sanctity to his successor Doryo, who was supposed to be one of the numerous incarnations of Kwannon, the Goddess of Mercy. To Doryo's memory is dedicated the finest of all the shrines which collectively constitute Saijoji. It is called Myokwaku-do, and stands at the top of a flight of steps to the 1. The links of the chain which divides the staircase into two parts are often bound with scraps of paper, on which pilgrims have written their prayers. The 'fan of feathers, which forms so striking a feature of the ornamentation, was Doryo's crest. The winged figures with large noses represent goblins (tengu), who dwell in the mountains. Do not fail to notice the elaborate wood carvings. Most of the large up- right stones of irregular shape in- scribed with characters in red or gold, which are scattered about the grounds, are memorials of persons who have at various times contri- buted towards the repairs of the temple. So is the hideous grey railing, by which more modern piety has endeavoured to mar the perfect taste and beauty of the scene. It is generally most con- venient to lunch at Saijoji al fresco in one of the more retired portions of the temple grounds. There are also some tea-sheds some way down the avenue beyond the temple. Instead of returning to Miyano- shita the way one came, it is far better to arrange at the hotel, be- fore starting, to have jinrikishas in waiting at the end of the stately avenue of cryptomerias leading from the temple down for 28 chd to the vill. of Sekimoto (tea-house, Saka-ya). After the fatigues of the walk, one can thence bowl along merrily through the pleasant valley of the Sakawa-gawa, skirting Odawara, and thence proceeding up the new road to Tonosawa and Miyanoshita, either in the same jinrikisha or on foot. The total distance of the trip, as thus modified, is 10 ri 25 did (26 miles) ; but the 3 ri in jinrikisha from Sekimoto to Odawara, and the possibility of doing all the remainder of the way up to Miya- noshita by jinrikisha, prevent it from being too fatiguing. — It is also possible to take Saijoji on the way back from Miyanoshita to 130 Route 6.— Miyanoshita and HaJcone. Yokohama, by joining the Tokaido Railway at Matsuda, the nearest station to the temple. The distance from the end of the avenue just mentioned, where jinrikishas may be obtained, is under 2 ri. From 6 to 7 hrs. should be allowed for the whole expedition including a stop- page for lunch. 3. — Hakone and Neighbouehood. Hakone is most quickly reached from Yokohama and Tokyo by the Tokaido Railway as far as Kozu, thence by train to Yumoto, and on foot or in kago along the old To- kaido up the Hakone pass via Hata, the whole journey taking about 6 hrs. from Yokohama, or 7 hrs. from Tokyo. The way up the Hakone pass through the forest is most picturesque, but the road is stony beyond description. An alternative plan is to continue on in the train as far as Sano, whence walk to Hakone by the Izu-Sano path, joining the Tokaido at its highest point, — about 10 m. Many residents prefer to tra- vel via Miyanoshita where they spend the night, and then push on next morning by Walk No. 9 (see p. 125). The respective merits of Hakone and Miyanoshita as summer resorts form a constant subject of debate between the partisans of the two places. Miyanoshita has the ad- vantage of hot springs, a drier air, easier access, and a hotel in Euro- pean style. Hakone is cooler, being 1,000 ft. higher, it affords more privacy, and has a picturesque lake where one may bathe and boat and go on water picnics. The view of Fuji, too, and the reflection of Fuji in the lake [Hakone no Saka-Fuji) form a great attraction. In winter the advantage is altogether on Miya- noshita's side. No one thinks of staying at Hakone during that season, whereas Miyanoshita is equally pleasant all the year round. Indeed, many prefer the early winter there to the summer, as the air is almost always clear in winter, and walking consequently more enjoyable. The chief inn at Hakone is the Hafu-ya, on the lake. But as nearly every house in the village is to let during the summer season, the plan usually followed by families from Yokohama is to hire a separate residence by the month, bring their own servants with them, and set up housekeeping. Foreign furniture of a rough kind is generally obtain- able, as also provisions during the summer season. Some of the most enjoyable ex- peditions from Hakone are the same as those already described from Miyanoshita, — for instance, those to Ojigoku, to Ashinoyu, up Futago-yama, etc. The follow- ing may also be recommended : — 1. The temple of GrOngeil. The way leads out of the N. end of the village, under an avenue of fine cryptomerias that line the Tokai- do. A flight of steps will be seen r., leading to a small shed whence there is a charming view. The village formerly extended to this place. Here also stood the old Barrier {Hakone no seki) and guard- house, where all travellers were challenged and required to show their passports. The barrier was removed in 1871, but part of the stone-work still remains. Kaempfer, who parsed this way on Sunday, the 11th March, 1691, writes of this guard-house as follows : — " We came to the Imperial guard at the end of the village, where all the Japanese came out of their Norimons and Cangos, and those on horseback alighted from their horses, presenting themselves very respectfully and bareheaded, to be search' d, which however was done but slightly. If there be any the least suspicion of a woman, disguis'd in man's cloaths, they must be more narrowly search'd, with this difference however, that in this case, they are examin'd by women. Private persons going up to Jedo, must show their Pass- ports at this place, otherwise they are kept under arrest for three days, before they are permitted to pursue their journey." Following along the avenue, we soon come 1. to an Imperial Summer Palace (Rikyu), not accessible to the public. The next point in the Walks from Hakonet 131 *oad is the Tsuji-ya inn, command- ing the best view of Fuji to be had ^anywhere on the shores of the lake. A little further on, we pass under a •stone torii and enter the hamlet of Moto Hakone. We then turn slight- ly to the L, passing under a red torii, by the side of which stands a wooden shed containing two iron rice-boilers said to have been used by Yoritomo on his hunting expedi- tions. The road here skirts the lake, soon bringing us to a charm- ing vista as we ascend to the foot of the temple steps. On the 1., just before passing through the torii, stands the custodian's house, where Yoritomo's sword and other interest- ing relics are shown. On the 1., half-way up, is a shrine dedicat- ed to the Soga Brethren. The main temple contains votive pic- tures representing these Brethren, the Gods of Luck, Yoritomo's horse, etc. The walk back may be varied by taking a wide turning to the 1. about the middle of Moto Hakone, going up the stone steps nearly as far as the torii, and then taking a turn to the 1. which is the Sliindd, or New Road, to Ashinoyu: After following this for about J m., we strike r. the old path which leads to the Tokaido. The pass above the torii commands the view so often seen in photographs. 2. Walk to the End 6f the Lake. — At the entrance to the avenue leading to the temple of Gongen, a path will be seen 1. lower down, by following which a walk of 5 miles can be taken to Umijiri, as the N. end of the lake is called. Those going by boat (1 hr.) will find that the shadow of the large trees over- hanging the lake r., shortly before reaching Umijiri, affords a nice spot for a water picnic. 3. Along the Siikuino-gawa.-— This is a pleasant but rather rough walk. The stream has to be perpe- tually crossed and re-crossed, and sometimes wading is unavoidable. The path finally leads out near the ▼ill. of Hata, where kagos can be ob- tained for the return via the stony Hakone Pass. At the beginning of the valley, a path to the r. leads to Yoshihama on the coast. It affords pretty peeps of Fuji and the lake, but the high grass intercepts the view from the top. 4. Walks in the direction of Atatni. — Several pleasant walks can be taken in the direction of the Ten Province Pass and Atami, notably one up the slope of Okoma-yama and over Kazakoshi-yama, to the highest point of the Tokaido, where, on a little plateau, the boundary post between the provinces of Saga- mi and Izu is placed ; and back to Hakone by the Tokaido. While crossing the plateau, there is a fine view of the lake, the mountains surrounding it, and Fuji beyond, with to the S. the Bay of Suruga, the promontory of Izu, the towns dotting the Tokaido, Ashitaka- yama, the Fujikawa far away in the distance like a streak of silver, and still further the long point of Omae-zaki stretching out into the ocean. Distance about 3^ m. Another walk in the same general direction is past the pond called Numa-ga-ike, then over a little ridge separating it from another pond or swamp on the Suruga side, called Otama-ga-ike, and on up the moun- tain slope to a gap, where a turn to the 1. should be taken up through the grass to the survey post. The summit affords an extensive view. But of all walks in this direction, the most delightful is that to the Ten Province Pass {Jikkoku-toge or Hig cine- tog e). Those intending to picnic there should, however, take water with them, as none is to be obtained on the way. The climb is for the most part easy enough, and the panorama from the summit, es- pecially on a fine day in early winter, something never to be forgotten. The top of the ridge, which is mark- ed by a stone known as the Ten Pro- vince Stone, looks down on the pro- vinces of Izu, Suruga, Totorni, Koshu, Kotsuke, Musashi, Shimosa, 132 Route 6. — Miyanosliita and Hakone. Kazusa, Boshu, and Saganii. Bays, peninsulas, islands, mountain- ranges, lie spread out in entrancing variety of form and colour, Fuji towering up magnificently above all the rest. The distance from Hakone is locally estimated at 5 ri, but must be less, as it can easily be done in 2J hrs. [A steep descent of a little over 3 m. leads from the top down to Atami. There is also a path from the top to the hamlet of Iztt-san, distant 1 ri.] 5. Hirahama on the lake. — A short walk may be taken from the S. end of the village to the foot of the Hakone Pass, where there is a path leading to the shore of the lake. After skirting the latter, the way leads over a small hill to the next bay, called Hirahama. Should the water be too high, Hirahama may be reached by the track over Hatahiki-yama. 6. Umidaira- — This is the pla- teau rising above the S.W. shore of the lake, from which is obtain- ed an extensive and beautiful view, embracing many of the points seen from the Ten Province Pass. Time, about 2 hrs. A track leads down through the grass to a little bay on the lake near the Hiraishi, or Flat Stone, whence Hakone can be easily reached by boat, which should be ordered in advance. 7. The Subterranean Water- Course and the Fnkara Pass. — The Fukara Pass is the most southerly of three that lead from the end of Lake Hakone to Fuji, the other two being the Nagao Pass and the Otome Pass. The first stage on the way to all three from Hakone is by boat nearly to the end of the lake. Close to the spot on the shore where the ascent of the Fukara Pass begins, is a tunnel (suimon), through which a portion of the waters of the lake is carried to several villages on the other side of the mountain, serving to irrigate their rice-fields, and then flowing on to form the waterfalls of Sano. This subterranean channel is said to be- entirely artificial, the local account being that it was pierced by two brothers, who bored through the mountain from op- posite sides until they met in the middle. The walk up the pass takes 20 min. The exit of the tunnel (u?ni no ana) may be easily reached from the top of the pass, the whole expedition from the boat and back again taking about 2 hrs. There is some climbing and scrambling to be done, bat the paths are on the whole fairly good. 8. The Nagao Pass. — This lies 1 ri 7 cho from Umijiri. The way leads first across the Haya- kawa, the natural outlet of the lake, which later on flows past Miyanoshita ; then along a broad level cinder path to the foot of the pass, and finally by an easy climb of 12J cho to the top. The gap at the summit of the pass com- mands a complete view of Fuji from base to peak. On looking back, the eye sweeps across the plain of Sengoku-hara and over the w T aters of Hakone Lake. Kammuri-ga-take is also seen to advantage, and on its slope can be_ distinctly traced the sol- fataras of Ojigoku. A more exten- sive and beautiful view is, however, obtained by ascending the hill to the 1. of the pass. From this summit, not only Fuji, but the promontory of Izu, with Amagi-san, the whole of the fertile plain stretching away to the r. of the town of Mishima, the rugged peaks of Ashitaka, the course of the Fujikawa, the pro- montory of Mio-no-Matsubara, Ku- no-zan, and the full sweep of Suruga Bay lie at the spectator's feet. Route 7. — Peninsula of Izu, 133 ROUTE 7. The Peninsula of Izu. 1. atami and neighboubhood. 2. hakone to shuzenji and shimoda. 3. from numazu to shimoda and atami by the coast. 4. yugashima to atami. 1. — Atami and Neighbourhood. At&mi (*Higuchi Hotel, foreign style ; Sagami-ya, Fuji-ya, and many others) is a favourite winter resort of the Japanese higher offi- cial class, as it is protected by high hills from the northerly and westerly winds which prevail at that season over Japan. The whole stretch of coast from Kozu on the Tokaido Railway to Atami partakes more or less of the same advantage ; and the soft air, the orange-groves, and the deep blue sea of Odawara Bay, combine to make of this dis- trict the Riviera of Japan. Atami is most easily reached from Yokohama by the Tokaido Railway as far as Kozu, lj hr., and then by jinrikisha for the rest of the way, nearly 5 hrs. along the coast. Itinerary. KOZU to :— Ri. Clio. M. Odawara 1 28 4| Hayakawa 10 f Nebukawa 1 20 3| Enoura 1 12 3J Yoshihama 1 32 4J Izu-san 2 12 5f ATAMI 18 1| Total 9 24 23J The road is delightfully pictur- esque and representatively Japa- nese, leading first under an ancient avenue most of the way to Oda- wara, and thence up and down along the coast, with ever-changing views of sea and land and of Vries Island smoking in the distance. The little peninsula whose neck is crossed about half-way, is called Cape Manazuru. Travellers approaching Atami from the Kyoto side may find it a convenient saviDg of time to alight at Numazu station, and thence to proceed to Atami over the hills, — a pretty walk of about 5 hrs. ; road practicable also, except after heavy rain, for jinrikishas with two men. The distance is estimated at 7 ri. From the town of Mishima to Atami is somewhat shorter. During most of the way up, a fine near view is obtained of Fuji, with to the r. Amagi-san and the lower ranges of the peninsula of Izu, and in front the Bay of Numazu at Fuji's base. The view from the top of the ridge is rather disappointing. A third way, much to be recom- mended to good walkers, is that from Miyanoshita via Ashinoyu to Hakone (see p. 125), and thence over the hills by the Ten Province Pass (see p. 131) with its incom- parable view. The ascent is not very steep, but the descent on the Atami side is short and abrupt. The total distance from Miyano- shita to Atami by this way is be- tween 6 and 7 ri. Fourthly and lastly, Atami may be reached by small steamer from Kozu, touching at Odawara and Manazuru.- It is possible that some eccentric persons may prefer this means of approaching it. The curiosity for which Atarni is noted is its geyser (Oyu), which breaks out once in every four hours in the middle of the town. It ori- ginally shot straight up into the air, but is now partially enclosed, and an inhalation house (Kyiiki- kwan) has been erected by the au- thorities for patients suffering from affections of the throat and lungs, the salt in which the steam of the geyser is rich being benefi- cial in such cases. The handsome 134 Boute 7. — Peninsula of Izu. house close behind the Kyuki- kwan, on the other side of the small creek which flows through the town, is a villa formerly belonging to the millionaire, Mr. Iwasaki, and now the property of His Imperial Highness, the Grown Prince. The chief productions of Atami are a beautifully delicate kind of paper, called gampishi, literally, "wild- goose skin paper," and an excellent sweetmeat called ame. The walks to be recommended from Atami are : — 1. To the grove of EJnomiya, a few ruin, distant from the hotels. At the far end of this grove, are some of the finest camphor trees {kusunoki) in Japan. 2. To Uomi, the hut visible high up on the cliff that shuts in Ata- mi Bay to the S. It is a climb of some 20 min., but the lovely view from the top amply repays the trouble. The name Uomi, lit. "fish- outlook," refers to the use to which this post of observation is put. When a school of bonitos is expect- ed — and they frequently visit the bay in enormous numbers — a man stands on this eminence, whence he can see clearly down to a great depth in the water, and makes signs to the fishermen below, indicating to them the direction in which it will be best to turn. 3. To the hot springs of IziJ-san, \ ri. They are situated on the rock below the highway, in a manner resembling swallow's' nests. 4. To Bnieaiji, a pretty park. This is a pleasant level walk of less than 1 ri. 5. To Tosawa, i hr. climb half- way up Higane-san to a beautiful grove of trees. There one may turn to the r., and come back by way of the vill. of Izu-san. (This vill. is not below the highway, as are the hot springs of Izu-san, mentioned in No. 3.) 6. To the little port of Ajiro, a steep but very pretty walk over the hills, returning, if preferred, by boat. The walk takes about 2 \ hrs. r the return by sea less. Ajiro, which lies at the S. end of a beautiful bay, can also be reached from Atami by small coasting steamer. It will be found best to lunch at the Shi?nizu- ya Inn, situated at the point where the Shimoda road branches off r. over the Taka-toge, and having pleasant rooms overlooking the bay. The vill. itself offers no attractions. The following are pleasant all day expeditions : — 7. To the small island of Hatsn- sllima, thence to Ajiro, on to a beautiful stretch of coast known as Nishiki-ura, and so home. Those who like the sea will find this a charming boating excursion on a calm day. Nishiki-ura boasts some- caves. 8. Up Higane-san, and down a steep narrow gorge r. from the temple there to the hot springs of Yugawara ; thence back (by jinriki- sha, if preferred) via Yoshihama on the Atami main road. 9. By boat to It© (Wada), 5 ri 28 cho byroad, but shorter by water, and thence via the baths of Matsu- bara {Inn, Maeda-ya), Both. Wada and Matsubara form part of a cluster of hamlets collectively known as Ito, and noted for their hot mineral waters- The other hamlets of the group are Yukawa, Take-no-uchi, and Arai. where a guide should be procured, to Omuro-zan, an extinct volcano re- sembling Fuji in shape, and there- fore often called by the country-folk Fuji no Imoto, " Fuji's Younger Sister," or Sengen-yama (Sengen is an alternative name of the Goddess of Fuji). About 2 hrs. are required to walk from Matsubara to the base, which is half-way between the hamlets of Ikemura and Totari ; thence it is 20 min. more to the summit, from which there is a fine panorama. The crater is about 250 yds. in diameter, and some 80 ft. deep, the bottom being covered with scattered blocks of lava. To the E. of this volcano stands a smaller one called Komuro-zan, Mishima. Shuzenji. 135 2.— Fkom Hakone to the hot speings of shuzenji, and over Amagi-san to Shimoda. Itinerary. HAKONE to:— Ri. Mishima 3 Hojo (Yokka- _ niacin) Ohito Uryuno SHUZENJI Yugashima . , Nashimoto . . Mitsukuri . , SHIMODA . Cho. 21 6 32 9 25 18 6 11 5 M. 5i i if 12* 5| 5i Total 21 25 53 This is a two or three days' trip, which should be arranged in such fashion as to sleep the first night at Shuzenji, and the second at Yuga- no, whence one can easily reach Shimoda by noon on the third day ; or if necessary, by pushing on to the hot springs of Yugashima the first night, Shimoda could be reach- ed on the second. It is possible to take jinrikishas as far as Yuga- shima, and again along the excel- lently graded road from the foot of the Konabe-toge into Shimoda, but they are not always to be depended upon in that direction. Take it altogether, the way beyond Shuzen- ji is very hilly, and scarcely to be recommended except to pedestrians, who will find it replete with natural beauty. The above itinerary is given from Hakone ; but the quickest way of reaching Shuzenji from Tokyo is to take train to Numazu, from which place a good "jinrikisha road follows the course of the Kanogawa, joining the main road to Shimoda close to Hojo, a distance of 3 ri. An alter- native road from Numazu via Ushi- buse is 1 ri longer, but offers lovely sea views. One might also alight at Sano which is 1 ri 20 cho from Mishima by jinrikisha. The first stage of the way from Hakone to Mishima, takes the traveller along the old roughly paved Tokaido, which, soon after leaving Hakone, rises to a height of 2,970 ft. above the sea, and then again descends. About half- way down is a vantage-point 1., commanding a fine view of the country E. of Numazu. The river Kanogawa is here seen winding between groups of hills, beyond which rises the bolder mass of Amagi-san. Mishima (Inns, Mishima-kwan, Sagami-ya), formerly a busy town, still boasts a la,rge and famous Shinto temple of Oyama-tsumi, the god of mountains. This temple, founded in A.D. 733, was destroyed by earthquake in 1855, and re- built in 1869. From this place, the road crosses a plain near the head of the Gulf of Suruga to the vill. of Daiba, where it turns up the valley of the Kanogawa, passing through the vill. of Hojo. Noted in history a s the birthplace of the founder of the great Hojo family, who, during the 13th century and a portion of the 14th, ruled Japan as "Regents'* (ShiJcken), in the name of the "Puppet Shoguns" of Kamakura. The scenery all the way up the valley is pretty, including, on turn- ing back, charming views of Fuji. The rocky sides of Joyama present a striking object as_ seen on the r. of the hamlet of Ohito. Not far beyond Ohito, the prefectural road, which has hitherto been followed, is abandoned for a path leading up the 1. bank of the Katsura-gawa to Shuzenji (Inn, Arai-ya). De- lightfully situated in a secluded valley, this place is much resorted to on account of its mineral waters. In the middle of the river, which flows down through the village, a hot spring rises up in a basin of rock. A roofing has been built over the spot, and a wooden bridge con- nects it with the bank ; so that bathers may either luxuriate in the high temperature of the spring, or 136 Route 7. — Peninsula of Izu. moderate it by means of the cold water of the river. The water is also led into the inns by means of pipes. On the 1. bank stands the temple of Shuzenji, belonging to the Soto sect, which, though insignificant, gives its name to the village. _ Behind the vill. of Odaira, and visible from the road, is Asahi-no- taki, a cascade of about 100 ft. in height, forming a series of four or five falls. All this neighbourhood abounds in hot springs, those of Seko-no-taki being the most notable ( 8 did off the main road from Yugashima), and picturesquely si- tuated. Yiigasliima (Inns, Yumoto-ya, Ochiai-ro, at the hot springs) is a hamlet at the foot of the Amagi- ioge. The ascent of this pass (3 ri) is mostly gradual, only one-third of the distance being steep. The path continues along the r. bank of the Kanogawa to the hamlet of Takijiri, whence, passing through a pretty rocky valley and over open grassy hills, it ascends the forest-clad slope of one of the spurs to the r. of Amagi-san. Amogi-san, it should be mentioned, is the general name iriven to the whole mountain mass stretching across the pro- montory of Izu from E. to W., the loftiest summit of which is called Banjiro. Splendid as is still the timber on this range, it has suffered much from deforesta- tion during the last two decades. The traveller should turn aside to visit the cascade of Joren-taki, formed by the waters of the Kano- gawa. It is situated close to the main road. The favourite hot springs of Yiignno (Inns, Shioda-ya, Edo- ya) are prettily situated on the banks of the Kawazu-gawa, some 6 did only from the poor hamlet of Nashimoto at the foot of the pass on the other side. Here a road branches off to Kawazu-no-hama on the coast (1J ri), which affords a different route for those desirous of returning by land. Beyond Nashimoto the road crosses the Konabe-tdge, a climb of 18 did, and after passing Mitsuhuri descends a picturesque valley, well- cultivated, and irrigated by the waters of the Nozugawa, a stream flowing into the harbour of Shimoda. The country round is beautifully diversified, every hill laid out in a series of terraces planted with rice and barley. The conspicuous cone- shaped hill which seems, from the vill. of Kochi, to block up the mouth of the valley, is called Shimoda Fuji. Three did from Kochi stands the hamlet of B,endaiji (Inn by Yoshi- mura Heijiro), noted for its hot springs. Further on, the valley wi- dens till it forms an extensive open plain before reaching Shimoda (Inns, Yamamoto-ya, Awaman-ro, a compactly built and regularly laid out town situated on the banks of the Nozugawa. The situation of Shimoda is such as to command a healthy climate, owing to the dryness of the soil and the fresh sea-breezes. The harbour, though small, is safe and convenient. There is also an inner anchorage for small junks and boats, which is connected with the Nozu- gawa, being artificially constructed by means of dykes and a break- water. From Shimoda is exported most of the stone employed for the new constructions in the capital. It comes from extensive quarries at Sawada, near Kawazu - no - hama (Inn, Mage-ya, with hot springs), about 3J ri distant. Shimoda was first visited in 1854 by Commodore Perry and the ships of the United States squadron. By the treaty which he concluded, it was constituted an open port for American shipping : and here Mr. Harris, the American Minister, resided until the substitution of Kana- gawa as a trading port in 1859. This change was motived by an earthquake and huge tidal wave that rendered the harbour useless for large ships and overwhelmed the town. The limit of the tidal wave is marked by the spot on which the Normal School now stands. The easiest way to quit Shimoda is by small steamer to Atami, calling at two or three places en route. Walk round the Coast. 137 3. — From Numazu to Shimoda, and thence to atami by the coast. It is possible to walk round the entire peninsula of Izu by fol- lowing the path that skirts the coast, — a journey which, though fatiguing, is extremely pretty in a characteristically Japanese way, and quite off the beaten track. It is a good plan to relieve the monotony of such a lengthy walking tour by taking boat over certain portions of the way, especially that between Ina- tori and Ito, where the rugged coast- line is seen to better advantage from the sea. Indeed, steamers may be availed of the whole way ; but in making plans, it should never be forgotten that this apparently more rapid method of conveyance affords no punctuality and but little comfort. The path continually winds up and down the cliffs along the sea-shore, passing a succession of picturesque nooks, bays, and is- lets with rocky caves and pinnacles. Of these Dogashima is the most noted. The bay of Enoura is famed for its beauty, while all along the coast from _Shimoda to Atami, the volcano of Oshhria, and the smaller isles of Izu are constantly in sight. The usual country accommodation, with excellent fish, is everywhere obtainable. If the trip be made in winter, — the month of December is recommended — it may be advan- tageous to do it in the reverse direction, in order to have the prevailing winds in one's favour. The best places to stop at are : — Hida (Inn, Haruki-ya). Tago (Inn, Taka-ya). Matsuzaki (Inn, Shokai-ro). Shimoda (see opposite page) . Atagawa (Seijo-kwan). Ito (Maeda-ya, at Matsubara). Atami (*Higuchi-ya), The inns recommended at other places on the road are : Hashimoto- ya, at Mito ; Mage-ya, at Kawazu- no-hama ; Shimoda-ya, at Inatori ; Matsu-ya, at Yawatano. The following is the Itinerary. NUMAZU to:— Bi. Chd. Enoura 1 31 Mito 2 5 Tachibo 1 24 Hida 2 20 Toi 3 — TAGO 5 2 Matsuzaki .... 2 18 Nagatsuro .... 5 — SHIMODA.... 4 18 Kawazu - no- hama 3 20 Inatori 1 29 Naramoto (near Atagawa) .... 1 27 Yawatano 2 27 ITO (Wada) . . 3 10 Usami 1 10 Ajiro 2 — ATAMI 2 18 Total 47 7 M. 4 ii 4£ 6f 8 3 5 6 115J In the above itinerary the road lies away from the coast between Matsuzaki and Shimoda, and is practicable for jinrikishas for about half the distance. The coast road via Kano is 3J ri longer. From Afcami one may reach Kozu on the Tokaido Railway by the itinerary (reversed) given at the beginning of this route (p. 133). 4. — From Yugashima to Atami. This walk from the centre of the peninsula to the coast offers superb views. The itinerary is as follows : YUGASHIMA to :— Bi. Chd. M. Nagano — 20 1J Harabo 2 — 5 Hiekawa 1 19 3f Ito (Wada) 2 — 5 ATAMI 5 28 14 Total 11 31 29 138 Route 8. — Tries Island. EOUTE 8. Vries Island. Tries Island, called Izuno Oshima by the Japanese, is the largest and most accessible of the Izu no Shichi- to, or Seven Isles of Izu, which stretch away for over 100 m. in a southerly direction from near the entrance of Tokyo Bay to 33° lat. N. Its greatest length is 10 m*. ; its breadth in the broadest part 5-J m. It is situated 15 m. from the nearest point of Izu, and 28Jm. from Misaki and Sagami. The ever-smoking vol- cano on Vries Island is sighted by all ships bound for Yokohama. The names of the other six are Toshima, Niishima, Kozushima, Miyake, Mikura, and Hachijo. In ancient days Eastern Japan, then semi-barbarous, was used as a place of "banishment for criminals expelled from the central part_ of the Empire, that is to say Nara, Kyot;o, and their environs, where the Mikado held his Court. When the mainland of E. Japan became settled, the islands alone continued to be used as con- vict settlements, and they retained this character till quite recent times. There were exiles living on Vries as late as the end of the 18th century. On English charts, Hachijo (misspelt Fatsisio), the southernmost of the group, is sometimes stated to be "a place of exile for the grandees of Japan." But it is a mistake to suppose that Hachij o was peculiar in this respect, or that grandees were the only class of persons transported thither. The most noted of the many exiles to Vries was the famous archer Tametomo, who was banished there in 1156, and whose prowess forms a favourite subject with Japanese romance writers and artists. His picture may be seen on the back of some of the Japanese bank-notes. The current English name of Vries Island is derived from that of Captain Martin Gerritsz Vries, a Dutch navigator who discovered it in 1643. Vries Island was noted until recent years for its peculiar dialect, and for the retention of curious old customs. But few remnants of these now survive, excepting the coiffure of the women and their habit of carrying loads on the head. Vries Island has no regular, and but little irregular, steam commu- nication with the outer world. The best way to reach it is by fishing- boat from Misaki (see p. 84), whence the fare with five sailors should be about 10 yen. The weather being favourable, any point on the coast of the island may be reached in from 5 to 8 hrs. The island may also be reached from Shimoda or Ajiro in Izu, or by junk from Rei- gan-jima, Tokyo. The native craft cannot, however, be recommended to any persons unacquainted with the language or unaccustomed to Japanese ways ; and the many de- lays and disappointments caused by the uncertainty of communica- tion with the mainland are hardly counterbalanced, except to the in- vestigator of volcanic phenomena, by such interest as the island possesses. The best season for the trip is early spring, the next best being winter. There are six villages on the island, all situated on the coast, and named respectively Motomura (more correctly Niijima), Nomashi, Sashikiji, Habu, Senzu, and Okada. Of these Motomura is the best to stop at, whilst Habu has the ad- vantage of possessing a small harbour — the submerged crater of an ancient volcano — and is therefore the easiest to take ship from when departing. There are no inns on Vries Island, excepting a poor one at Motomura ; but accommodation can be obtained at the house of the Nanushi (Head- man) of each village. There are no vehicles of any kind, and but few pack-horses. The distances along the road or path connecting the villages are approximately as fol- lows (the estimate is that given by the local officials, and seems to be a rather liberal one) : — Bi. Cho. M. Senzu to Okada 1 — 2 J Okada to Motomura .... 2 — 5 Motomura to Nomashi . . 1 — 2 J Nomashi to Sashikiji.. 3 — 7J Sashikiji to Habu .... — 19 1J For the most part the road runs at some distance from the coast, which it only rejoins on nearing the villages; and there are also a Volcano of Mihara. 139 number of paths in all directions, used by the inhabitants for bring- ing down fire-wood from the hill- sides. Usually the way lies through a low wood of camellia, skimmia, and other evergreens, and some- times, as for instance between Motomura and Nomashi, along a charming fern-clad dell. Pheasants are abundant. There is no road round the E. coast from Habu to Senzu; but the distance is approximately 5 ri> and the way leads over the desolate slope of the volcano by which the whole centre of the island is occu- pied. The name of the volcano is Mihara, 2,500 ft. high. From its summit smoke perpetually issues, and it is subject to frequent erup- tions. The nearest point on the coast to the summit of the moun- tain is Nomashi, but the ascent may be undertaken equally well from Motomura. The climb requires only 2 hrs., and the whole expedition, including stoppages, can easily be made during a forenoon. Passing through the village, the ascent, as made from Motomura, leads for the first hour through a wood, aud then emerges on to volcanic scoriae, where nothing- grows but small tufts of grass and dwarf alder. The eminence seen ahead to the 1. and called Kagami- bata, is not the summit of the mountain, but only a portion of the wall of an immense ancient crater, in the midst of which stands the present cone, with its much smaller though still considerable dimen- sions. From this point it is a 5 min. walk to the lip of the an- cient crater, which here forms a flat oval waste of minute scoriae, with stones scattered here and there. Its greatest length on this side is estimated at nearly 1 m., and it is surrounded by low broken hillocks of lava, against whose sides the sand is piled up. Half an hour's walk across this desolate waste, where not even a blade of grass is to be seen, brings us to the little torii marking the Nomashi approach to the mountain, and forming the limit beyond which women are not allowed to proceed. From this point there is a fine view. In front, and most conspicuous of all, are the other islands and islets of the Izu group, the curious pyramidal To- shima, with Shikine and Kozu behind ; to the 1. of Toshima the longer and lower outline of Niijima, with little Udoma in front. To the 1. again, but considerably more distant, are the larger islands of Miyake and Mikura, while on ex- ceptionally clear days the outline of Hachijo — so at least it is asserted — can be descried. To the W. are seen Amagi-san and other portions of the peninsula of Izu, the tower- ing cone of _Fuji, with the lesser Hakone and Oyama ranges ; to the N. Misaki in Sagami, and to the N.E. the outline of the peninsula of Kazusa-Boshu, which shuts in Tokyo Bay from the open Pacific. The climb hence to the top of the mountain takes \ hr. The width of the present crater at the summit has been estimated at § m. Mihara may also be ascended from Habu or from Senzu, the climb on that side of the island being, however, much longer and more difficult, Excepting the ascent of the vol- cano, there are few w^alks in the island deserving of mention. The collector of ferns will, however, find numerous and beautiful species, not only between Motomura and Nomashi, but also at a place called Bdzu-ga-Hora, i.e., the Priest's Dell, about 1 m. out of Habu in the direction of Senzu. A spare day at Habu may also be devoted to walk- ing along the coast towards Senzu ; but the vapour spring situated on the mountain -side between the two places, of which the visitor will be told by the natives, is at a distance — 5 ri — which makes it difficult of access in one day, on account of the arduous nature of the ground ; and there is not even a shed in which to 140 Eoute 9. — Fuji and Neighbourhood. lake shelter. This spring is resorted to in cases of wounds and bruises, the friends of the sick person erect- ing some temporary cover, Futago- yama, the double-crested mountain, whose red hue, caused by the pre- sence of brittle lava of that colour, is so conspicuous from Habu, is a mere spur of the volcano, and has no special interest. EOUTE 9. Fuji and Neighbourhood. 1. general information. 2. as- cent from gotemba station. 3. ascent from murayama. 4. ascent from subashiri. 5. as- cent from yoshida. 6. ascent from hito-ana. 7. ascent from suyama. 8. summit of fuji. 9. circuit of fuji half-way up. 10. circuit of the base, cave of hito-ana, kami-ide waterfalls. 1. — General Information. Time. Mere hurried ascent of Fuji and back to Yokohama, 1 day and night ; more comfortably in 2 days and 1 night, which latter is spent at one of the huts on the mountain side. The pleasantest plan is to com- bine the ascent of Fuji with a visit to the Miyanoshita-Hakone district, giving at least a week to the entire trip, and climbing the mountain during whichever portion of that time seems to promise the most settled weather. The ascent is usually made between the 15th July and 10th September, the huts to accommodate pilgrims being closed during the rest of the year and the coolie guides (gdriki) fearing to go up so long as any snow remains on the path. The charge at the huts is $1 per night. The best time is from the 25th July to the 10th August. The best way to reach Fuji from Yokohama is to take the Tokaido Railway as far as Gotemba Station, 3 hrs., where guides, horses, foreign saddles, as also rough quilts and charcoal to ward oft the cold air at night in the huts on the mountain top can be procured. The traveller must bring his own food. Instead of staying at Gotemba and making the ascent thence, many prefer to push on 6 m. to Subashiri at the E. base of the mountain, where there is a better inn and whence the climb is a rather easier one. Travellers from the Kobe direction should alight either at Iwabuchi or at Suzukawa, and ascend from Mura- yama, it being 3 ri_ from each of those stations to Omiya (Inn, Wata-ya). One goes from Iwabuchi to Omiya by jinrikisha ; from Suzu- kawa to Omiya by tram in 1J hr., passing through the town of Yoshi- wara. There is a short cut from Yoshiwara for pedestrians. Those coming from Kofu will naturally ascend from Yoshida. It is also possible to ascend from Suyama, S. E., and Hito-ana, S. W. ; but these last two have nothing special to recommend them. Details of the ascent from Gotemba Station, etc., are given below. Numbers of travellers choose rather to reach Fuji from Miyanoshita or Hakone, by walking to Gotemba or Subashiri, over the Otome-toge (see p. 128). In this case they can provide them- selves beforehand with all neces- saries at the hotel. It is always advisable to take plenty of warm clothing, as the temperature falls below freezing point at night on the summit of the mountain even during the hottest period of summer. It is also prudent to take an extra supply of food, as parties have occasionally been detained on the mountain side by stress of weather, unable either to reach the summit or to descend to the base. It is possible, by sleeping at Gotemba T 1 , -. "' : - s *--* ' /"""* - r ...-•;' FtJil , /; '^^.^r-r, ^\r : Nf.V/r ; ; i l ! 1 1 |. vt \ y^6kit»a ^ vi U G A B4>- l " \,.,.-, t ». M , m , 1 ■ } smzroKA & j?€.. Vm. fe ^:;M I 11' '-- - -- ■ ■— Genera I Info rma Hon . 141 Station or at Murayama, and start- ing at dawn, to reach the summit and descend again in a single day (in local Japanese parlance hi-yama, that is, "day-mountaiu "). Counting the working day as having 15 hrs. (4 a.m. to 7 p.m.), this would allow 11 hrs. for the ascent, including short stoppages, 1 hr. at the top, and 3 hrs. for the descent. The shortest time in which the ascent and descent have been known to be made from Gotemba Station, including stop- pages, is 9 hrs. 8 min., of which 6 hrs. 50 rn. were occupied in the ascent. But persons less desirous of " break- ing the record " than of really seeing what they have come so far to see, are strongly urged to pursue the following course : — leave Gotemba Station or Murayama before day- light — say at 2 a.m. — thus includ- ing the glory of sunrise on the way up. After sunrise, do the remain- der of the ascent slowly, reaching the summit about midday. Having established himself in one of the huts on the summit, the traveller should go down into the crater, make the round of the crater, -and spend the night at the top. This will afford the chance of a sunset and of a second sunrise, after which the descent can be at once begun. The descent will take most people from 4J to 5 hrs. The great ad- vantage of this plan is that it multiplies the chances of a good view from the summit, — such views being much more often obtained at sunrise and sunset than in the middle of the day, and being by no means certain at any time. Apropos of views, may be mentioned the Japanese term Fuji-mi Ju-san-shu, that is, the Thirteen Provinces from which Fuji is visible. These are Musashi, Boshu, Kazusa, Shimosa, Hitachi, Shimotsuke, Kotsuke, Shinshu, Koshu, Totomi, Suru- ga, Izu, and Sagami. The map of these provinces is an excellent specimen of old- fashioned Japanese cartography. A very slight acquaintance with the written characters will make it one of the most useful maps to travel with. Fuji is much more easily ascend- ed than many mountains far in- ferior in height, as it presents no obstacles in the shape of rocks or undergrowth. The first 6,000 ft. of the ascent can moreover be per- formed on horseback, after which the accomplishment of the re- mainder is merely a question of steady perseverance. The distance to the summit from the point call- ed Uma-gaeshi, is unequally divided into ten parts called go (the unit being oddly enough a sho, which is a measure of capacity containing about 1J quarts), which are sub- divided in some cases into halves called go-shaku. The first station is thus Ichi-go-me, the second Ni-go- me, and so on, the last before the summit is reached being Ku-go-me, or No. 9. One explanation given by the Japanese of this peculiar method of calculation is that the mountain resembles in shape a heap of dry rice poured out of a measure, and that consequently its subdivisions must correspond to the fractions of the latter. However this may be, the go is used as a tenth part of the ri in other provinces, especially in Satsuma. At most of these stations, as also at the top, are huts where accom- modation for the night, boiled rice, and water can be obtained. The number of coolies required will of course depend on the amount of baggage to be carried. When ladies are making the ascent, it is advisable to have a spare man or two to help them when tired. Stout gaiters are recommended to be worn during the descent, to prevent sand and ashes from get- ting inside the boots. Fuji, often called Fuji-son, that is Mount Fuji, and by the poets Fuji-no- yama, that is the Mountain of Fuji, whence tbe form Fusiyama often used by Europeans, stands between the provinces of Sut uga and Koshu, and is the highest, the most beautiful, and the most famous mountain in Japan. The height of Ken- ga-mine, its loftiest peak, has been vari- ously estimated at 12,234 ft. (Knipping)j 12,341 ft. (Chaplin); 12,360 ft. (Favre- Brandt); 12,365 ft. (Stewart); 12,400— 12,450 (Milne) ; 12,437 ft. (Rein). Though now quiescent, Fuji must still be accounted a volcano. Frequent men- tion is made in Japanese literature of the 142 "Route 9. —Fuji and Neighbourhood* smoke of Fuji, which, If the expressions used by poets may be taken as Indicating foci s, mm i ii:>\ e formed r oonstant Peal are m the \\\ ndscape at least as late as the iiih oenl ii i-.\ . a hundred j en rs earlier It me, however, to have been already less violent than the discharge from A.sama- yama In Shinsbu\ An author who flou- rished about the end <>i the Oth century says: " Their is :t l»w el spurc at, the simi- iii ii , about one H square, having a depres- I Li hi in (lie een! re ; Im ] >< •< I like n cm iiIiIimh, at the bottom of whioh is r pond. This cauldron Is usunlly filled with vapour of a pine green (or blue) colour, and the bot« torn appears like boiling water, The steam Is vi Lble al n s peat distance Prom i he mount :> In." I □ 987 a small mounts in whs formed at the eastern base of Fuji. Tins was probably the small hump called i ... Fuji, on i, he I. of the second station on i kc < ;..i cniiii sscenl . \ tre seller's journal <>r the year 1081 freaks of smoke rising Prom i he slightly flattened summit, while at in-ill, flre was seen to issue Prom the crater. Eruptions alsoooourred in t082s ad m; 19, 'rii- in. . i reoent one I an on the 18th Deoemb ■'■, I r07, and lusted with In- tervals till the 22nd January, i7os. This being the period known in Japanese chronology as Zxd>t, the name of udsutoan whs ;• i\ en to the hump then formed os i. in- upper slope of the S. side or the mountain. According to a uother aocount, :i projection had alwavs existed in this plaoe, ''Hi. whs rendered more conspicuous by this Latest eruption. Be this at It may, it. is recorded I hat the ashes lay <; I'eei, deep on the Tokfl tdfl ne:ir I hna n.lld SToshiwara, and even Pell in Sedotoadepth of <"» Inches. Even at the present, day, i nil ii i|un nti! Les of steam continue to issue through the n.shes on t,h • ED. Or Snha- shirl side of I he mounts in, just, outside I he lip Of I he era.h-r. I I has 0660 H idely believed thai the greal ea pthquake of is;u ed I he Bhape or the mountain ; but this Ides la oompiel elj groundless. Em 'i mous must ha ^e been the torrents of lava that have flowed Prom Fuji on different ooOHsions. Fifteen mii.s Prom -I ii n. in :i direot line, Mt. the vill, of Mati niio hioh furrow I he low i'\- part, of the mountain. The aspect of Fuji has so impressed .' lonal mind I lint, many other hills of hk.' Shape derive th.'ir name from it.. 'rims we have the Bungo Fuji, Co-Fuji, Fuji stands by Itself, rising with niio majestic sweep from a plain almost surrounded by mountains. | The S. side slopes right down to Mm- sea, Its outline being broke* only on the S.E. by the rugged peaks of Ashitaka-yama. On the N. and w. rise steep granite ranges, stretohing away from the Misaks> t5ge nearly to the junction of the Shibakawa with the Fujikawa. Against these mountains the showers of ashes which were ejected from the orater have piled themselves up, and confined in their separate basins the waters of tin; Motosu, Shoji, and other lakes. The EJ, side Is shut in by volcanic moun- tains of undetermined origin, be- ginning near Subashiri, and extend* iUth Wards into the peninsula of 1/u. Among them lies Lake Eakone, with the numerous hot, springs of Miyanoshita, Ashinoyti, Atami, and their neighbourhood. The base of the mountain is cultivated \\\> to a, height of about 1,500 ft., above which spreads a wide grassy moorland to 4,000 ft., where the forest commences. The upper limit of this varies consider- ably, being lowest on the B. side, namely, about 5,500 ft. on the as- cent from GKotemba, and 7,900 ft. on the Murayama side. But <>n the \V. Eaoe, between the Yoshida and Murayama ascents, and looking down OVer the plain round llito- ana, it must extend as high as 9,000 ft. oi more. This difference is no doubt due in a, great measure to the comparatively recent die- turbanoe on the S.B. side, which caused the present conformation of l [dei-zan, v\ hen the greater part of the ashes thrown out fell iii the direction of ( iotemba, destroying the forest, and leaving a desert waste whioh only a long lapse of years can again oover with vegetation. To the same oause, namely, com- paratively reoont volcanic action, must be asoribed the almost entire absence of those Alpine plants whioh abound on the summits of other high mountains in the neigh- bourhood, such as Ontake, Shirane in Kodiu, and Yatsu-^a-take. Ascent from Gotnnha and from Murayama. 143 the foresl lies a narrow of bushes, chiefly dwarfed larch. •ies of hardy plants are found up to a height of 10,1 on some parts of the cone. 2.- -ASCENT FROM GOTEMBA ST A'i Gotemba Si at ion [Inns, Fuji-ya, Hatsu-ya) is 12 i the vill. cf tliere is no longer any nece sity f I > the latter oticc in pro-railway ing now a direct and q from i by what ia called the ifa route, avoiding If the traveller intends end the night at Station, lie should try to arrive is to avoid difficulty in bccommodationat tl In order to economise one's it is advisable to take first 2.J hrs. of the t across an open and geutty This ta . J i (also called Komitake), where they must be left.* At Tardbd (so called from a goblin w]j ■ way up. These stavi engraved with the f the mountain, and can have a further inscrii led by the w] i o d wel 1 i i j si d e tl i e c r I igh Fuji, as already stated, is theoretically divided on all its r exist in are Bubdii and top ar- should ind, in ease of the »ry of calling a halt f ,ay. ■ which it i The heights of the chief stations are as follows : — No. 3. L 5. f, 9,317 B. 10,693 ft. From No. 2 \ to 5 the path in, where the steep porl the as .. 6 a path turns off for Hoei-zan. A the climb I still, being I From here, too, patches of sn< probably be found in rifts in the lava rock; but there are nowhere any actual snow-fields to be tra- versed. At No. 10 — the top — there are three stone huts, fairly i and comfortable. Should tl. be occupied by pilgrims, the travel- ler must walk round to the huts on the Subashiri side of the lip of the crater, about J m. distant. The descent as far as No. 7 is the same as the ascent. At I it diverges to the r. down a kind of glissade (Jap. hashiri) of loose sand, over which one may uch a rate as to reach No. 24 in less than 1 hr. From Tardbd onwards, the t will OOOU] much ai was required for the as- cent. The entire journey down from the summit to Gotemba fcion can be accomplished in 5 hrs. : :AYAMA. From Murayama {Inn, by Fnji- masa) to the Uma-gacshi, or riding t the mou is a distance of 9 onward it is necessary to wall the various stations, No. 5 is the -led, thoi - ir, the ascent from Mun I having long been that pilgrims, and therefore styled tl; quchl. -or Front Entrance, to t lie bain. This ai advantage of ofl made than t climbers therefore recommend going 144 Route 9. — Fuji and Neighbourhood. up this way, and descending on the steeper Gotemba side. 4. — Ascent from Subashiri. At Subftshiri, the inn generally patronised by foreigners is Yone- yarna. Yaniada-ya also is fair. The road to the Uma-gaeshi on this side leads for 2 ri up a broad avenue through the forest, whence it is another 2 ri to a place called Chujiki-ba, where a halt for re- freshments is generally made. This is 8 cho below station No. 1. The best stations are 2, 6, and especially No. 8 and the top. At No. 9 is a small shrine known as Mukai Sengen, that is the Goddess of Fuji's Welcome, intimating to the weary wayfarer that he is ap- proaching the goddess's sanctum. 5. — Ascent from Yoshida. Yosliida is an unusually long village, divided into an upper por- tion {Kami Yoshida) and a lower portion (Shimo Yoshida). From Kami Yoshida (Inn, Kogiku) the way to Uma-gaeshi, the 2nd sta- tion, as far as which it is possible to ride, lies up an avenue. The upper edge of the forest is not quitted till No. 5 is reached. Thus the view on the way up is less good by this route than on the Gotemba and Mura- yama sides. 6. — Ascent from Hito-ana. The ascent from Hito-ana (Inn, Akaike Keikichi) is laborious, and the view much spoilt by the dense forest through which the track lies. It is therefore not recommended. Travellers wishiug to visit the beautiful waterfalls of Kami-ide (see Sect. 10) might, how- ever, find it worth their while to descend on this side. If their lug- gage is light, they can take it with them over the mountain. If not, they must allow plenty of time for sending it round the base. 7.— Ascent from Suyama. This is an alternative way for persons staying at Hakone, who can reach Suyama via the Lake and the Fukara Pass in 6 to 8 hrs. Coolies for the whole trip, includ- ing the ascent of Fuji, should be engaged at Hakone, as the re- sources of Suyama are limited, though there is a tea-house (Wa- tanabe Hideo). But the ascent from Gotemba Station is to be preferred. The path up Fuji from Suyama joins the path up from Gotemba at station No. 3. 8. — Summit of Fuji. The summit of the mountain consists of a series of peaks sur- rounding the crater, the diameter of which is not far short of 2,000 ft. The descent into it, down the loose talus of rock and cinders close to the huts at the top of the Murayama ascent, is quite easy ; still it is advisable to take a guide. The bottom is reached in 20 min. The floor, which is formed of cinders, inclines slightly from W. to E., and is intersected by small stream-beds, which at the E. end terminate among the loosely piled lava masses forming the core of the mountain. All round, except where the descent is made, rise precipi- tous rocky walls, from which large pieces detach themselves from time to time with a loud crackling sound like musketry. On the W. side, immediately under Ken-ga-mine, there is usually a large snow-slope. The depth has been variously cal- culated at 416 ft., 548 ft. and 584 ft. The return to the edge will take about 25 min. Before dawn the pilgrims betake themselves to Ken-ga-mine, the peak on the W. of the crater, and the true summit of the moun- tain, to await the sun's rising. As the luminary approaches the hori- zon and all the clouds about it glow with the most brilliant hues of red flame, the feeling of longing expectation seems almost to over- come them ; but as soon as the burning disc appears, they greet it devoutly, rubbing their chaplets Summit of Fuji. 145 between their hands and muttering prayers to the great deity. Ken-ga-mine commands a mar- vellously extensive view. To the S. stretches the Gulf of Suruga, shut in on the E. by the lofty promontory of Izu, and confined on the W. by Miozaki at the termi- nation of the long range divid- ing the valley of the Abekawa from that of the Fujikawa. S.W. is the broad pebbly bed of the Fujikawa, its course above the point where it crosses the Tokaido being hidden by the lower hills. Westwards are seen all the lofty peaks of the border range of Koshu and Shin- shu, beginning with the angular granite obelisk of Koma-ga-take and its lesser neighbours Jizo and H6-6-zaD, then the three summits of Shirane, known as Kaigane, Ai- no-take, and Nodori, the Koma-ga- take of Shinshu rising between the Tenryu-gawa and Kisogawa, and so on to Ena-san in Mino and the top of Shichimen-zan near Minobu. Further to the r.', ex- tending northwards, comes the great range dividing far-off Hida from Shinshu, amongst whose peaks may be distinguished Nori- kura, Yari-ga-take, and, further remote in Etchu, the volcanic summits of Tateyama. Gradually moving E. again, along the north- ern horizon, we distinguish the mountains near Nagano, — Ken-no- mine and the extinct volcano of Myoko-zan. Nearer in the fore- ground rise the numerous sum- mits of Yatsu-ga-take ; and then glancing further N., we perceive Asama-yama's smoking crater, the mountains about the Mikuni Pass, and next, all the Nikko mountains, — Shirane, Nantai-zan, and lesser peaks. E. of Yatsu-ga-take is seen Kimpu-zan, easily known by its rounded shoulder and the pillar of rock at the summit ; then Yakushi and Mitsumine in Chichibu, till the eye loses itself in a confusion of lower ridges. On the E. side of the crater, from almost any point that may be chosen, the eye rests on a prospect less extensive indeed, but surpassing this in beauty. Far away across the plain, is distinctly visible the double top of Tsukuba in Hitachi, while further S. we descry the outer edge of the Tokyo plain; with Tokyo lying far up the bay ; then in succession Capes Sagami and Sunosaki, Vries Island, the Gulf of Sagami, and nearer in the fore- ground beautiful Lake Hakone peacefully embosomed among green hills. Few will be fortunate enough to obtain a perfectly clear view from the summit of Fuji, but the best chances are just before and at sun- rise. " Nor," says an authority, " will the pilgrim be wholly fortunate unless he sees the superb cloud effects which the mountain affords. These are most likety to be enjoyed in ordinary summer weather, be- tween noon and 6 o'clock in the evening, and they are truly magni- ficent. The summit of the mountain remains clear, but its shoulders and waist are surrounded by billowy masses of dense white vapour of indescribable splendour. Here and there a momentary break may per- mit a glimpse of the earth beneath, but usually nothing can be seen landward but this vast ocean of cloud, amid which the peak stands as the only island in the world. Turning seaward, the ocean itself can be seen over the circumambient vapour, and affords a striking con- trast to the turmoil and restless change of form of the clouds them- selves." A curious phenomenon may also sometimes be witnessed at sunrise from the W. side of the summit. As the sun's rays appear above the horizon, 4he shadow of Fuji (kagc- Fiiji) is thrown in deep outline on the clouds and mist, which at that hour clothe the range of mountains to the west. Descending again from Ken-ga- mine, the path passes under it, and just above the steep talus called 146 Route 9.— Fuji and Neighbourhood, Oya sliirazu Kg shirazu (" Heedless of Parent or Child"), from the notion that people in danger of falling over the edge of the crater would not heed even their nearest relatives if sharers of the peril. The name occurs in similarly perilous places in many parts of Japan. Con- tinuing N., the path skirts the edge of the cone, passing a huge and precipitous gorge which appears to extend downwards to the very base of the mountain. This gorge is called Osaioa, the lower limit of which may be some 6,000 ft. above the sea, or only half-way from the summit. Passing across the flank of the Rai-iwa, or Thunder Rock, it goes outside the crater wall, ascends the Shaka no Wari-ishi (Shaka's Cleft Rock), and leaving Shaka-ga- take — the second loftiest peak — be- hind, descends to the Kim-mei-sui (Famous Golden Water), a spring of ice-cold water situated on the flat shelf between the N. edge of the crater and the outer wall. Ascend- ing again, the path passes the row of huts at the top of the ascent from Yoshida and Subashiri, and reaches a torii commanding the best view of the crater. It then turns again to the 1., and goes outside the wall of the crater, underneath Kwannon-ga- take. Here the interesting pheno- menon may be observed of steam still issuing from the soil in several places, one of which is close to the path, while another lies near at hand on the 1., about 50 ft. down the exterior of the cone, and a third is seen immediately underneath a wall of rock 50 yds. ahead. A few inches below the surface, the heat is great enough to boil an egg. Beyond this point, the path crosses a depression known as Seishi-ga- kubo, ascends E. the Sai-ne-kawara, dotted with stone cairns raised in honour of Jizo, descends to the Gim-mei+sui, or Famous Silver Water, at the top of the Gotemba ascent, and passing under the low peak named Koma-ga-take, reaches the huts at the top of the path from Murayama. Between this last point and Ken-ga-mine, is a small crater named Konoshiro-ga-ike, accessible from the N. The total distance round the large crater is said by the Japanese to be 1 ri, or 2J miles; but this is doubtless an exaggera- tion. An interesting hour may be devoted to making the circuit, which will allow for pauses at all the best points of view. 9. — The Chudo-Megubi, ob Cir- cuit of Fuji Half-way up. This walk is a favourite with native lovers of the picturesque, on account of the panorama which it successively unfolds. The path encircles Fuji at heights varying from 9,490 ft. on the Gotem- ba side (which it intersects at station No. 6) to 7,450 ft. on the Yoshida side. It is best to turn to the 1. on starting from the above- mentioned No. 6 station, because the path descends a rapid slope of loose sand from the ridge of Hoei- zan towards the W., which would be very fatiguing if taken in the opposite direction. The path pro- ceeds along the narrow ridge of Hoei-zan, turns down into the deep hollow formed by the eruption of 1707, crosses the ridge at its further side to a broad plateau bestrewn with the cast-off sandals of pilgrims, and climbs steeply to hut No. 5 on the Murayama ascent. It then continues W. over dykes oj lava until it reaches the great O-Sawa ravine, and, descending the moun- tain to the 1. of the huge mass of lava which here projects over the chasm, passes through a wood of larch and rhododendron to the S. edge of the ravine, which is now crossed. The path onward lies al- ternately through the wood and over the bare northern side of the cone to a spot called Ko-mitake, where a hut affords accommodation for the night. Shortly beyond this point the path divides, the r. branch, which should be taken, leading to Circuit of the Base. 147 No. 5J on the Yoshida ascent whence Lake Yamanaka is well seen almost due E. Turning off 1. -at No. 6, the path winds over the lava dykes to No. 5 on the Suba- shiri ascent, and then by a gentle gradient back to our starting-point. The time required for the entire circuit is from 7 to 8 hrs., the walk offering no difficulties. 10. — ClECUIT OF THE BASE OF FUJI (Time, 2 j— 3 days.) Itinerary. GOTEMBA Station to :— Ri. Clio. M. Gotemba Village . . 12 f Subashiri 2 18 6 Yamanaka 2 — 5 Yoshida 2 8 5J Funatsu 1 — 2J Kodachi 12 f Nagahama 1 — 2-J Nishi-no-umi 12- f Nemba 1 12 3J Shoji 1 24 4 Motosu 2—5 Nebara 1 8 3 Hito-ana 2 28 6| Kami-ide 1 8 3 Omiya 3 8 7f SUZUKAWA 3 — li Total 26 6 63| (From Suzukawa by rail to Go- temba in 1J hr.) The road is practicable as far as Subashiri by basha, and on to Kodachi by jinrikisha, the Kago- zaka being the only part where it is necessary to get out and walk. Boats can be taken from Kodachi to Nagahama, from Nishi-no-umi to Nemba, and from Shoji across the lake of the same name. Pack-horses can be got at most of the stages for the whole round. A tramway runs from Omiya to Suzukawa. Travellers are recom- mended to engage horses for the whole trip, and thus render them- selves independent of their luggage, should they avail themselves of the opportunity of doing portions of the journey by boat. Excepting the first 5 or 6 ri 9 the whole of this trip is highly- picturesque, leading, as it does, along the chain of lakes — Kawagu- chi, Nishi-no-Umi, Shoji, and Motosu — that encircles the base of Fuji. Were there only good hotels or good private houses to hire, the shores of all these lakes would form delightful summer retreats. Scenery, fishing of sorts (carp, eels, aka-hara, etc.), short walks for the delicate, climbing for the strong and active, bathing, nearness to such celebrated excursions as Fuji, the Misaka-toge, Minobu, etc.,— all the elements of a pleasant holiday are there. But the accommodation is everywhere poor except at Suba- shiri, Yoshida, and Kami-ide. At Hito-ana is a cave 250 yds. long, visited by pilgrims anxious to worship the little image of Kwannon perched on a project- ing rock at its far end. But the chief sight on the road is af- forded by the beautiful waterfalls of KiUiii-ide, known as Shira-ito no taki, or the White Thread Cas- cades. The two largest, some 85 ft. in height, are called respectively O-daki and Me-daki, or the Male and Female Cascades, and there are more than forty smaller falls, their children. In the neighbour- hood is another fine cascade, about 100 ft. high and 30 ft. wide, called Nen-nen-fuchi. Persons not caring to make the entire round of Fuji may visit the Kami-ide waterfalls by alighting at Suzukawa station on the Tokaido B-ailway, whence it is a distance of 6 ri 8 cho^ the first 3 ri of which, as far as Omiya, by tram. The way there and back can be done in a day, under favourable circum- stances. One may also alight at Iwabuchi (good inn at station), whence it is only 5J ri ; but there is no tram. 148 Route 10. — The Takasaki- Karuizawa Railway. EOUTE 10. The Tokyo-Takasaki-Karuizawa Kailway. [cave temple of kagemori. maebashi.] isobe. myogi-san. Distance from TokyS. Names of Stations. Remarks. 4 m. 6 10 13 17 22 24 29 34 38 45 51 56 63 64% 69 73^ 77| m 87i TOKYO (Ueno). Oji. Akabane Jet Warabi. Urawa. Omiya Jet flip trains < change for (. Yokohama. ^Change for < Nikko and (. the North. See p. 120. /Change for Karui zawa. I Some trains j change for 1 MaebasM, 6 ^ miles, j Alight for i Myogi-san. Ageo. Okegawa. Konosu Fukiage. Kumagai, Fukaya. Honjo. Shimmachi. TAKASAKI Jet Iizuka. Annaka. Isobe Matsuida. Yokokawa. KARUIZAWA. This line closely follows the first stages of the old Nakasendo (see Route 35), and is flat and unin- teresting till Takasaki Junction is left behind. Urawa (Inn, Yamaguchi-ya) is the seat of government of the pre- fecture of Saitama, which includes the greater part of the province of Musashi. Omiya (Inn, Takashima-ya in the Public Garden supplies foreign food). An avenue of 1 m. in length leads to Hikawa no Jinja, the chief Shinto temple of Musashi, situated in grounds that have been turned into a public garden. The temple is said to have been founded in honour of Susano-o by Yamato-take, on his return from subduing the barbarous tribes of Eastern Japan. Leaving Omiya, the first place of importance reached is Jin m ag'ai ( Inn, Shimizu - ya ) r which carries on a large trade in silk and cotton, and possesses his- torical interest in connection with the warrior Kumagai Naozane (see p. 60). [A jinrikisha road strikes off from Kumagai to Omiya (Inn, Kado- ya) in Chichibu, 12| ri, an im- portant mart of the silk-trade,, not to be confounded with Omiya on the Railway, men- tioned just above. Twenty cho- beyond the town, at the vill. of Kagemori, is a celebrated Cave- temple of K wan nun. The stalactites here assume a variety of fantastic shapes to which realistic names are given, such as the Five Yiscera, the Dragon's Head and_Tail, the Lotus-flower, etc. — Omiya is the best starting-point for Buko-zan, 4,360 ft., the highest mountain in Chichibu ; but there is no special interest in; the ascent, and no view obtain- able from the forest-covered summit. Hikawa, situated in the valley of the Tamagawa (see Route 26), about 11 ri from Omiya, may be reached by a lonely mountain path over the Sengen-toge andviaNippara. But the most attractive route for enthusiastic climbers is that to Koshu by the Karizaka-toge. The distance is variously estimated at from 23 to 28 ri.] At Honjo (Inn, Izumi-ya) there are some important cross-country roads, one of which joins the Rei- heishi Kaido, the route formerly followed by the Mikado's annual envoy to the shrine of Ieyasu at Nikko. Shiminaclii (Inn, Mitsumata) is- a large silk-producing place. Takasaki (Inn, Sakai-ya ; Bestt.y Maebashi. Isobe. 149 :Sumiyoshi, at station) was formerly the castle-town of a Daimyo, and is still an important industrial centre. [The railway branches off here to Mael)as!ii 9 6 m., where it meets the Byomo line from Oyama (see Route 13). Maebashi (Inn Abura-ya ; Akagi-tei, foreign restt.) formerly the seat of a great Daimyo named Matsu- daira Yamato-no-Kami, is now the capital of the prefecture of Gumma, and a great empo- rium of the silk trade, one of the best qualities of raw silk being named after this town. The extensive silk-reeling fac- tories can be seen on applica- tion. To the N. rises the extinct volcano of Akagi-san, and W. is the curious group of moun- tains collectively called Haru- na, on the N. flank of which are situated the fashionable baths of Ikao, described in Route 12. Within a short dis- tance of Maebashi station stands one of the largest con- vict prisons in Japan, whose brick wall 20 ft. high encloses 11 acres of land.] Iiznka is a station at the W. end of Takasaki, some distance from the business part of the town. It lies on one of the roads to Ikao. Auiiaka was formerly a castle- town. Two hrs. distant by jinriki- sha is Tomioka, a thriving place, which boasts the largest silk filature in the Empire established in 1872 under French direction. Isobe (Inns, *Kyoju-kwan, Haya- shi-ya, and others). This is the best station to alight at for a visit to the remarkable conglomeration of rocks that crown Myogi-san. But travellers coming eastwards from Karuizawa need not go beyond Matsuida station, the distance from each of these two places to Myogi being nearly the same. Isobe is reached in 4 hrs. by rail, and Myogi by road in 1J hr. more ; and as less than a day is required for seeing the marvels of the mountain, the journey from the capital and back may thus be accomplished in a day and a half. Isobe is a watering-place of recent growth, lying in a wide valley less than 1,000 ft. above the level of the sea. Exposed as it is on all sides, it is neither mild in winter nor cool in summer. The mineral waters of Isobe, which are cold, contain a large quantity of carbonic acid gas, and, unlike most other Japanese springs, are beneficial to persons suffering from catarrh of the stomach and other internal com- plaints. On the road to Myogi, a good view is obtained of Akagi-san and Haruna-san to the N., and Asama- yama to the W. If the visit be made in autumn, the precipitous sides of the Myogi range will be found in a glow of rich colour arising from the crimson tints of the maples that mingle with the variegated leaves of other trees. Myogi (Inns, Shishi-ya, Kambe- ya) is an insignificant village. The shrine at Myogi is dedicated to the memory of the 13th abbot of Enryakuji, a temple on Hiei-zan near Kyoto, who, in the reign of the Emperor Daigo (A.D. 898- 930), retired here to mourn over the sudden downfull and banishment of his pupil, the famous Sugawara-no-Michizane. After his death, he was deified under the title of Myogi Dai G-ongen . Over two centuries ago, a fresh fit of zeal on the part of his devotees was the cause of the shrine being rebuilt in the grand style of which traces still remain. It is now in charge of Shinto priests. The temple stands a short distance above the village, in the midst of a grove of magnificent crypto- merias. The Oku-no-in lies 25 cho further up the mountain, and above this the cliffs are nearly perpen- dicular. A rocky cave, formed by a huge block resting in a fissure, contains an image of the god. On the summit of one of the jutting peaks near the Oku-no-in, is the enormous Chinese character ^ (dai)j "great," whose dimensions are stated at 30 ft. by 20 ft. It is con- 150 Route 11. — Karuizawa and Asama-yama. structed of thin bamboos, tied to- gether and covered with strips of paper, the votive offerings of pil- grims, which give it the appearance from below of being painted white. The surrounding scenery is weird and romantic. Prom the bosom of a gloomy grove rise innumerable rocky pinnacles, gradually increasing in height round a lofty central peak, the whole vaguely recalling the front of some colossal Gothic cathedral. Dr. Naumann describes Myogi-san as a system of grand acute-edged, deeply ser- rated dykes, apparently radiating from a common centre, whose highest summit is about 3,880 ft. in height. Probably it is the skeleton of a very old volcano. The ascent of the highest peak visible from the vill. can be ac- complished in less than half a day. To scale this peak is a rather dangerous undertaking. Those, however, who appreciate the delights of rough and difficult climbing, ought not to miss the opportunity of mounting Hakun- 20,11, the jagged ridge rising directly above the village. The S. wing is called Kinkei-san, Kinto-san lying between the two. The highest point of Myogi-san is behind Hakun-zan. JRosoku-ishi, "the Candle-Stone," is a conspicuous projection belonging to Kinkei-san and forming the JST.W. termination of tins dyke. It takes about 1$ hr. to get from the vill. to Daikoku-san, the way there leading over the pass between Kin- kei-san and Kinto-san. A gigantic natural arch, called Ichi no Seki- mon, is passed on this way. Ni no Sekimon and San no Sekimon are clefts in the mountain further on, readied after a breakneck climb. The perforation in Ni-no-Sekimon is invisible from this side of the mountain, but is to be seen from Yokokawa and the Usui-toge. According to local tradition, the hole ■was made by an arrow shot from the bow of a certain Yuriwaka Daijin while stand- ing at the vill. of Yokokawa. The Hige-suri-iwa, or " Beard- Scraping Rock," is a slender column of volcanic breccia, the- last 10 ft. of the climb up which is achieved with the assistance of an iron chain and ladder. From this coign of vantage, the lofty peak of Naka-iio-take and many other curious rocks are visible. The modern-looking edifice below the Hige-suri-iwa was built for the priests, after the burning of the two temples in 1872. Leaving Myogi, the railway may be rejoined at Matsnida ; or else one may walk on for 2 ri to a point a little further along the Nakasendo near Yokokawa {Inns, Ogino-ya, Ko- dake-ya, both at the station). ROUTE 11. Kaeuizawa and Asama-yama. 1. — Kaeuizawa and Neibourhood. Karuizawa is reached from Tokyo- by Railway (see p. 148), 5J hrs. The construction of the 7 miles of rail- way leading to Karuizawa over the Usui Pass presented greater difficulties than any that had hitherto been contended with by engineers in Japan, and for this reason a hiatus remained in the middle of the line to the West Coast -until 1893, when the Abt system, with its cog-wheels working on rack-rails, was successfully introduced. The gradient is 1 in 15, and almost the whole way a succession of bridges and tunnels, the total tunnelling aggregating 2f miles. The great viaduct over the Usui-gawa has four arches, each of 60 ft. opening; and the height of the rails from the valley is 110 ft. It was designed by Mr. C. A. W*. Pownall, M. Inst, C. E., Principal Engineer to the Imperial Railway Department. Shin-Karnizawa (Inn, Abura- ya), the station, lies J hr. by jin- rikisha from the summer resort, Kyii-Kamizawa {Inn, Bansho- kwan), lying in the upper corner of a grassy moor, 780 ft. below the sum- mit of the Usui pass. The vill. was in former times principally depen- Walks from Kamizatua. . 151 dent upon travellers over the an- cient highway, and appears to have just escaped ruin, after the con- struction of the railway, by a number of the foreign residents of Tokyo making it a retreat from the unhealthy heat of the city during the summer months. The old inns have been hired, and many new villas built on the mountain slopes. Facilities exist for European food and washing. Karuizawa's lofty situation (3,270 ft.) gives it a tem- perature seldom excessive during the day, and invariably cool at night. The rainfall bears favourable comparison with Nikko and other mountain resorts, and owing to the porous nature of the soil in the vicinity, leaves fewer traces behind. The place is nevertheless not free from mosquitoes, and the small sand-fly called buyu abounds, — an insect which inflicts a bite, painless at first, but afterwards extremely irritable and liable to swell during several succeeding days. Riding may be enjoyed over an uncultivat- ed moor covered with wild-flowers in July and August, which extends for miles in a southerly direction, and terminates on the E. in a range of grassy hills. The chief excursion from Karui- zawa is the ascent of Asama-yama (see next page), and the railway affords opportunities for visiting the romantically situated monastery of Shakusonji near Komoro, the famous Buddhist temple of Zenkoji at Nagano, and the mountains beyond (see Rte. 25). There is a variety of shorter walks, viz. 1. To the Top of the Ustii-tojsre, 1J m. by a fair road. Asama, the Shirane-san and Koma-ga-take of Koshu, Yatsu-ga-take, and Tate- shina-yama are seen on the way up. On the summit stand a few houses and a small temple, whose steps are the best place to obtain the view. In this spot is localised the following- legend., preserved in the Kojihi : — When Yamato-take (see p. 66 ) i was .cross- ing- from Sag-ami to Kazusa, while on his expedition against the barbarous tribes who then inhabited that region, he ridi- culed the name of 11a shiri-mizu ("Running' Water") given to the strait, and exclaimed that it was no more than an easy jump across. The Sea-God, offended at this insult, so disturbed the waters that Ya- mato-take's ship was unable to advance. Upon this, his consort Oto-Tachib»na- Hime said to him, " I will drown myself in thy stead " — and as she plunged into the sea, the waves became still. iSeven days afterwards her comb floated ashore. The prince built a tomb, and deposited the comb therein. On returning- to the capital after subduing the tribes, he stopped to r^st at the top of the Usui Pass, and gazing over the plain, said thrice in a melancholy voice : l *Azumawaya ,> (''Alas! my wife"), whence the name of Azuma by which Eastern Japan is still known. 2. Atago-yama. This isolated hill, j hr. walk from the vill., is ascended by two flights of stone steps, and has some curious perpen- dicular rocks half-way up. 3. Hanare-yama, about l m. off. On its E. side, near the summit, is a large cave tenanted by bats, which has to be reached by a very rough climb up a precipitous land- slip. The view from the narrow ledge at the mouth of the cave is ex- tensive. 4. Iriyama-tdgf!, 1 hr., by the. base of the hills skirting the moor, and past the curious rock called Kamado-iwa by the Japanese, and Pulpit Rock by foreigners. The summit commands probably the finest view obtainable of the valley leading towards Myogi-san, and, looking backwards, of the wide stretch of moorland at the base of Asama-yama. 5. WaBti'ttige and Kosoku-iwa. From the foot of the Iriyama-toge, the path keeps to the r., and in -J hr. more the road from Oiwake over the Wami-toge is reached. The ascent is easy. After a short but steep descent on the opposite side, a path 1. leads to the hamlet of Ongawa situated at the base of the Bosoku-iwa, aptly re-named by foreigners " the Cathedral Rocks,' 7 and remarkable for the petrified wood found in the neighbourhood. 152 Route 11. — Karuizawa and Asama-yama. These rocks are most easily ap- proached from Ongawa. Instead of returning the way one came, a pleasant round may be made by taking a tortuous hill path lead- ing down deep into the Iriyama valley, from which Karuizawa may be regained by the Iriyama-toge ; — or by pursuing a downward course from Ongawa, the hamlet of Arai, at the lower end of the Iriyama valley, may be reached. From this point it is a little over 1 ri to Yokokawa, whence train. In any case the excursion will occupy the greater part of a day. 6. Kiritsumi (Irm, Chosei-kwan). The thermal springs of this place are reached after a 3 hrs. walk via the Usui Pass. Not far from the summit a narrow path turns 1., leading up and down a succession of wooded mountain gorges, till the final descent is made into the vale in which Kiritsumi nestles at a height of 3,200 ft. These baths may be more conveniently reached by a jinrikisha road from Yokokawa, 2J ri. The way is pretty, but the view shut out on all sides. The water of Kiritsumi is slightly saline, with a temperature of 104 F. Higher up, in a neighbouring valley, is the old-fashioned watering-place of Iri- no-yu with accommodation only for peasant guests. The baths are sul- phurous and have a high tempera- ture. 7. Yiinosawa, J hr., by a path leading from the centre of the vill. towards Asama-yama. In the small house here a bath may be had, tepid mineral water being brought from the hill beyond. Continuing along the same path, which soon leads over more elevated ground and passes through beautiful stretches of forest, the baths of 8. Kose are reached in about 1 hr. Kose is a tiny hamlet in a fold of the hills, but possesses a commodious inn. Just before enter- ing Kose (from Karuizawa), two paths turn to the 1. The first leads to Kutsukake on the Nakasendo and is a pleasant walk of 1 \ hr., mostly by the side of a stream. Kutsukake is 3f m. from Karuizawa. The other path — the one nearer to Kose — is a narrow track, which, after travers- ing the forest, emerges on grassy mountain slopes, and ascends Hana-magari - yama, commanding various fine views. It then de- scends steeply into Kiritsumi, to which vill. This is a longer but more picturesque route than the one given above. 2. — Asama-yama. Asama-yama (8,280 ft.) is not only the largest active volcano in Japan, but also the most accessible. The excursion to the top and back may be made from Karuizawa in one day. The last great eruption occurred in the summer of 1783, when a vast stream of lava destroyed a primeval forest of con- siderable extent, together with several villages on the N. side. Subsequent eruptions have produced mere showers of ashes. At the foot of the steep cone the subterranean disturbances can be distinctly heard, and the sulphurous exhalations near the summit often make this part of the ascent rather oppressive. The ascent by the Wakasare-no- Chaya road, a hut on the way to Kusatsu, is the one now usually preferred, and is certainly the least fatiguing. The best plan is to hire horses at Karuizawa, where foreign saddles may be procured, ride via Kutsukake {Inn, Tsuchi-ya) to Ko- Asama 2 J hrs., — the excrescence on the mountain side, — and walk up by the Wakasare-no-chaya path. The climb is steep, but the path a good solid one of cinders, marked at inter- vals by small cairns. The time taken to the lip of the crater is about 3 hrs. The crater is circular, some J m. in circumference, with sides per- pendicular, honeycombed, and burnt to a red hue, while sulphur- ous steam wells up from the bottom and from numerous crevices in the walls. On the S. side of the mountain rise two precipitous rocky ramparts, ,-*—-;'. - - * "-- v^V" "'■ ■i'lim Am iWo&SS'i} "#6,™ ^jw ^c. Route 12. — Ikao, Kusatsu, and Neighbourhood. 153 separated by a considerable interval, the outer one being lower and nearly covered with vegetation. They seem to be the remains of two suc- cessive concentric craters, the existing cone being the third and most recent. The nearer is quite bare, and columnar in structure at the centre. The side of the cone is strewn with large rough fragments of loose lava, and unfathomable rifts extend for the greater part of the way down to its base. The view from the summit is very ex- tensive: — to the N., the whole of the Kotsuke mountains, with the Haruna group and Akagi-san ; the Nikko range and the E. range dividing Shinshu from Kotsuke ; the sea far away in the distance ; next the Koshu mountains on the S., with Fuji peering over them; the conical Yatsu-ga-take and ad- jacent summits of Koshu ; and then on the W., the huge range that forms the boundary between Shin- shu and Hida. The descent to the Wakasare-no-chaya takes \\ hr. Another way up, also occupying about 5 J hr., is from Oiwake (Inn, Nakamura-ya), a vill. on the Naka- sendo, 2 ri 14 did from Karuizawa, and formerly a place of some note, but much decayed since railway enterprise diverted the traffic from the highway. On leaving Oiwake, the path ascends gently through sloping meadows covered with wild- flowers ; then the acclivity becomes greater, and gritty ash is reached. At an elevation of 1,145 ft. above Oiwake, is a cascade hidden among the trees that skirt a deep gorge. The height of the fall is about 18 ft. ; the red colour of the water and of the underlying rock — vol- canic breccia covered with a red crust — gives it a strange appearance. At a height of 3,225 ft. above Oiwake, all vegetation ceases. For 1,600 ft. more, the path proceeds up a steep ascent of loose ash to the edge of the outer ridge, which from the vill. below appears to be the summit, though in reality be- low it. The path then descends, and crosses over to the base of the present cone, which is more easily climbed. The ascent can also be made from Komoro, a station 13 J m. from Karui- zawa. The path leads straight across the fields towards the highest visible point of Asama, and in 1J hr. fair walking brings one to the crest of a ridge, beyond which is a deep ravine with a yellow brook at the bottom, and the path from Oiwake at about one's own level on the other side. The brook is crossed after 35 min. walking, when the path joins that from Oiwake, described above. The actual time taken by a good walker to make the ascent from Komoro was 5f hrs., exclusive of stoppages, the last 1J hr. being an extremely rough and steep climb. EOUTE 12. Ikao, Kusatsu, and Neighbour- hood. 1. ikao. 2. walks and excursions from ikao i haruna, etc. 3. ku- satsu. 4. walks in the neigh- bourhood of kusatsu. 5. from kusatsu to nagano over the shibu-toge, ascent of shirane- san, the torii-toge. 1. — Ikao. Ikao is a short day's journey from Tokyo (Ueno station) to Mae- bashi by the Takasaki-Maebashi Railway in 3 J hrs. (see p. 148) ; thence 6 ri 8 cho (15 m.) partly by tram, partly by carriage or jinriki- sha, but jinrikisha the whole way to be preferred at present. The start- ing place of the tram is 1J m. from the station. If three or four per- 154 fioute 12. — Ikao, Kiisatsu, and Neighbourhood. sons are travelling together and have much luggage, it may be well to hire a private car. The latter part of the ride is uphill, so that two men to each jinrikisha are indi- spensable. Should the main road via Maebashi be impassable owing to floods, Ikao may also be reached by jinrikisha via Iizuka (the station at the W. end of Takasaki), Kaneko, and Shibukawa : — distance, 7 ri 8 did (17f m.). Yet another way (6 ri or 14f m.), practicable for jinrikishas as far as Mizusawa, whence it is hilly and very pretty, starts from Takasaki and passes through the hamlets of Nakazato, Kashiwagi-zawa, and Mizusawa, and round the base of the lofty peak of Sengen-yama. At the upper end of Mizusaiva stands a temple dedicated to Kwannon, where six bronze images, life-size, on a revolving platform are worthy of notice. This is one of the Thirty- three Holy Places of Eastern Japan. Hotels. — Kindayu, Muramatsu, European style. There are also the Budaiyu, Chigira, Shimada Hachi- ro, and other good inns in Japanese style. Ikao, one of the best summer resorts in Japan, is built on ter- races along the N. E. slope of Mount Haruna, at an elevation varying from 2,500 to 2,700 ft. The picturesque main street, which di- vides the vill. into an eastern and a western part, consists of one near- ly continuous steep flight of steps. The houses W. of the steps border on a deep ravine called the Yusawa, through which rushes a foaming torrent. Ikao has the advantage of cool nights, absence of mosquitoes, and an unusually beautiful situa- tion, offering from nearly every house a grand view of the valleys of the Azuma or Agatsuma- gawa and Tone-gawa, and of the high mountain-ranges on the border of the great plain in which Tokyo is situated. From few places can the Nikko moun- tains be seen to such advan- tage. Ikao is famous for its mineral springs, which have a temperature of 45° C. (113° F.) r and which contain a small amount of iron and sulphate of soda. They have been known since prehistoric times, and the bath-houses pouring out clouds of steam form a striking feature of the precipitous village street. According to the Japanese style of bathing, the hot baths are made use of several times a day,, and indiscriminately by patients of every description. Lately the water has been used for drinking purposes, but it has little more effect than pure hot water. 2.- - Walks and Excursions from Ikao. 1. Along the Yusawa ravine to- Yumoto 9 about \ m., nearly level. Yu-moto means lit., " the Source of the Hot Water." Seats are erected for the accommodation of visitors, who resort there to drink of the mineral spring. The water, which at its source is quite clear, has a slightly inky taste. On being ex- posed to the air the carbonic acid evaporates, and part of the iron which the water contains is pre- cipitated as a yellowish mass. This covers the bed of the river and the bottom of the aqueduct, and gives to the water in the baths a thick, dis- coloured appearance. The people, who have great faith in the strengthening effects of this preci- pitated iron salt, place large strips of cotton cloth in the stream. When the cloth has assumed a deep yellow colour, it is taken out, dried, and used as a belt for the body. The mineral water is led down to Ikao from Yusawa in bamboo pipes. 2. Up Koiiipim-san, £ hr. climb. Though of no great height, the top commands an extensive view, stretching from Shirane-san near Kusatsu to Tsukuba-san in Hitachi, and including the Mikuni and Nik- ko ranges, Akagi-san, and the valley of the Tonegawa. Just below the Soma*yama . Haruna . 155 Summit, a narrow path leads over the ridge to Futatsu-dake. 3. To Mushi-yu, Sengen, Futa- tsu-dake, and Soma-yama. Mushi- yu (lit. "the Steam Bath") is so called from the sulphurous gases which here emanate from holes in the ground, over which huts have been erected for the treatment of rheumatic patients. The number of naked people generally standing about at Mushi-yu makes this place unsightly. The time taken to reach the baths is about f hr. Sengen- yama, Futatsu-dake, and Soma may all be ascended from Mushi-yu. An easier way is from the path to Haruna on the S. side. Chains are hung on the stiffest bits of both these ascents to assist the climber ; but there is not the least real danger. Up Futatsu-dake there is a path only part of the way, the rest being a scramble over stones and roots of trees. The view from the top of Soma (4,850 ft. above the sea level, 2,150 ft. above Ikao) is magnificent. The summit of Fuji appears over the Chichibu moun- tains nearly due S. To the W. of it are seen the Koshu Shirane, the Koma-ga-take's of Koshu and Shin- shu seemingly in close proximity, then Yatsu-ga-take, Ontake about W. S. W., Asama-yama a little to the S. of W., Yahazu-yama W. N. W., then the Shirane of Kusatsu, and a part of the Hida- Shinshu range. Eastwards rise Tsukuba-san and the Shirane of Nikko, with one of the peaks of Akagi-san half-way between them. The town of Maebashi is visible to the E. S. E., with the Tonegawa half encircling it before pursuing its course down the plain. 4. To the pretty little waterfall of Benten-daki, on the stream which issues from Lake Haruna ; distance a little over 4 m. 5. To Haruna,— about 6 m. to the lake, and 1J m. more on to the temple. This, though, rough is by far the prettiest walking expedition from Ikao. " Chairs," however, may be taken. [On the way to Haruna, a con- spicuous conical hill called Haruna Fuji is passed, the steep and stony ascent of which occu- pies about § hr. from the place where the path diverges. The near view from the summit is very beautiful, showing the lake and surrounding moun- tains to great advantage. The distant prospect includes most of the view already described as seen from Soma. The stone shrine on the top is very anci- ent. — The best plan is to make of this a separate expedition. There is grazing-ground for cattle on this little Fuji, and a dairy-farm.] Lake Haruna, which apparently occupies the site of an extinct crater, contains salmon and other fish. On its border is a tea-house where one may lunch. From the lake it is a short and easy ascent to the top of a pass called Tenjin-toge, 1,000 ft. above Ikao, commanding an extensive view. From the Tenjin-toge the path descends a wooded glen to the ancient Shinto temple of Haruna, situated amongst precipitous and overhanging volcanic rocks, in a grove of lofty cryptomerias. It is dedicated to Ho-musubi, the God of Fire, and Haniyasu-hime, the God- dess of Earth. Over the principal building, which is decorated with excellent wood-carvings (especially two dragons twined round the side- beams of the porch), hangs a huge rock supported on a slender base, which seems every moment to threaten the temple with destruc- tion. The whole site is one of the most weird and fantastic that can be imagined, nature appearing to have laid a wager here to perform quaint feats in stone, the least malleable of all materials. 6. The hot springs of Shima lie 156 Route 12. — Ikao, Kusatsu, and Neighbourhood. nearly 8 ri from Ikao, so that a trip there involves staying the night. Shima may most con- veniently be taken en route to Kusa- tsu, the way being the same as far as 20 cho past Nakanojo on the road to Sawatari. Jinrikishas can be availed of, but must occasionally be alighted from. Shima includes two hamlets, called respectively Yama- guclii Onsen and Arai-yu, 8 cho distant from each other. Travel- lers are recommended not to stay at the former, but to go on to Arai- yu and put up at the inn kept by Tamura Mosaburo. Tho hamlet is picturesquely situated close to the river, on whose bank the springs which supply the baths gush forth. Travellers not returning to Ikao, but going on to Kusatsu, need not pass again through. Nakanojo, as there is a shorter cut from a place called Kimino. It is, however, scarcely passable for jinrikishas. 7. To Asama-yania* It is a 2 days' trip from Ikao to the volcano. The first day takes one by jinriki- sha to Iizuha (Takasaki), 7 ri 8 cho, whence train to Karuizawa, where sleep. For the ascent on the second day see p. 152. 8. To Myogl-san. It is a splendid day's walk via Haruna-san, Kami Moroda, and Shimo Sannokura to Matsuicla on the Takasaki-Karui- zawa Railway, about 9 ri, whence 1 ri more to the vill. of Myogi (see p. 149). Horses may be engaged for the baggage. 3. Kusatsu. The stalwart pedestrian can walk over from Ikao to Kusatsu in one long day via Gochoda, Nakanojo, Sawatari, and Namazu, — a delight- fully picturesque expedition of over 30 m., or else one may take a pack- horse. There is good accommodation at Nakanojo ; but should a break in the journey become indispensable, Sawatari (Inns, Fukuda, ShinKano- ya), a small batbiug vill. 5 ri 9 cho from Kusatsu, will probably be found the least uncomfortable place at which to spend the night. The baths, however, cannot be recommended. An alternative way from Ikao to Kusatsu is via the hamlets of Go- choda, Haramachi, Yokoya, and Na- ganohara, a distance of nearly 14 ri. This way is much recommended on account of the beautiful scenery of portions of the valley of the Agatsuma-gawa. It is practicable for jinrikishas from Gochoda to Yokoya, and for pack-horses the remainder of the way. There is no accommodation until reaching Na- ganohara. Instead of going via Go- choda, one may take the ITaruna Lake route and _by turning to the 1. at the vill. of Odo, join the Hara- machi route a little beyond Ka- ivara-yu (Inn, by Hagiwara) where are hot springs high up on the river bank. Kusatsu can also easily be reach- ed from Tokyo by taking rail to Karuizawa (see p. 148), whence it is an 11 ri journey across the delight- ful park-like country at the base of Asama-yama. Time, 1-J day. Kusatsu (Inns, *Yamamoto-kwan, with good private baths; Ichii), 3,800 ft. above sea-level, whose trim, cleanly appearance strongly recalls that of a village in the Tyrol, is the coolest of Japan's summer resorts. Visitors who, attracted by these considerations, may think of spending any time there, must however remember that the mineral waters are specially efficacious — not only in rheumatism, and, as re- cently discovered by Dr. Baelz, in gout — but in syphilis, leprosy, and other loathsome diseases, and that the first effect of the free sulphuric acid in the water is to bring out sores on the tender parts of the body. The chief constituents of the Kusatsu spriDgs are mineral acids, sulphur, iron, alum, and arsenic. The temperature of the springs is extremely high, ranging from 100° to 160° Fahrenheit, while the baths are generally 113° to 128°. The chief bath, called Netsu-no-yu, has Knsatsu. Walks in the Neighbourhood. 157 three divisions of increasing de- grees of temperature. Even the Japanese, inured as they are to scalding water, find their courage fail them ; and the native invalids are therefore taken to bathe in squads under a semi-military discipline to which they voluntarily submit. Soon after daylight a horn is blown and the bathers assemble, as many as can find room taking their first daily bath. Each is provided with a wooden dipper, and the " bath- master " directs the patients to pour a hundred dippers of water over their heads to avoid congestion. Attendants are on the watch, as fainting fits sometimes occur. Most curious is the sort of choric chant which takes place between the bathers and their leader on entering and while sitting in the bath, — a trial which, though lasting only from 3 J to 4 minutes, seems an eternity to their festering, agonised bodies. After the lapse of about one minute, the bath-master cries out, and the others all answer with a hoarse shout. After a little he cries out, " Three minutes have passed/' After another half-minute or so, " Two minutes more ! " then " One minute more ! " the chorus answer- ing each time. At last the leader cries " Finished ! " whereupon the whole mass of naked bodies rise from the water with an alacrity which he who has witnessed their slow, painful entry into the place of torture will scarcely cre- dit. The horn is shortly after- wards blown again, and the same process gone through by another batch, the bathing being continued from early morn till far into the night. The usual Kusatsu course in- cludes 120 baths, spread over 4 or 5 weeks. Most patients then proceed for the "after-cure" to Sawatari, 5 ri 9 cho distant, where the waters have a softening effect on the skin and quickly alleviate the terrible irrita- tion. Of late years, there has been a tendency to desert Sawatari in favour of Shibu (see next page). 4. — Walks in the Neighbour- hood of Kusatsu. 1. To the solfatara of Sessho- g*a-wara, on the slope of Moto- Shirane, about 1 ri. 2. To Sai-iio-Kawara and Kori- daui 9 20 cho. The meaning of the name Sai-no-Kawara is " the River- bed of Souls." On its numerous rocks and boulders, small stones have been piled up by visitors as offerings to dead children. Among these rocks is one called Yurugi- ishi, which, notwithstanding its- being a huge boulder, is so nicely balanced that it can be moved by the hand. Kori-dani is so-called from the frozen snow which is to be found there even during the dog-days. 3. To the small Shinto shrine of Suwa (Suwa nojinja), 25 cho. 4. Via Suwa-no-jinja, Higane,. Kiyozuka, and Hikinuma, to Hana- siliki near Iriyama, with hot springs spurting up near a cold stream. About 2J ri. 5. Part of the way to Otokn, up a pathless hill to a place which, just above thirty-three stone images of Kwannon, offers a magnificent panorama of the whole neighbour- ing country. Distance, about 1 ri;. on to Otoku, about 20 cho more. 6. To Niimao, 1 ri. 7. To Kosame, 1J ri on the way to Sawatari. 8. To Hikage, 2 ri. 9. To San-iio-sawa, 25 cho on the way to Karuizawa, and through a splendid forest to Haneo or to Maeguchi, 20 cho more. Or else to San-uo-sawa by the new road, which skirts Moto-Shirane and is therefore somewhat longer. A path leads hence, 10 cho, up one of the spurs of Moto-Shirane to a small stone shrine with a fine view of Asama-yama and other mountains. 10. Shiran e-san 9 Shira-ne signifies White Peak, which accounts for there being several moun- tains of this name in Japan. a volcano over 7,000 ft., forms a 158 Route I2.->—Ikao, Kusatsu, and Neighbourhood. pleasant day's expedition via Ses- sho-gaivara, the path leading through a remarkable skeleton forest, whose every bough and twig, though per- fect in shape, remains blasted by the fumes exhaled during the last eruption. The crater is oval in slmpe, its longer diameter being about 500 yds., and its breadth 150 to 200 yds. The walls are very steep ; but on the E. side is a depres- sion through which travellers can en- ter. The sulphurous lake, bubbling and seething, is a most remarkable, sight. It is 3 acres in extent, and consists entirely of hydrochloric acid, with iron and alum, only waiting to be diluted in order to form an excellent lemonade. It would be possible to take the ascent of Shirane-san on the way to Shibu, but the day would be an extremely long one, as the volcano is considerably off the road. ,5. — Kusatsu to Nagano over the Shibu-toge. The Torii-toge. Itinerary. KUSATSU to:— Bi. Chd. M. Top of Shibu-toge. 2 32 7 SHIBU 3 22 8f Toyono (Station). .5 — 12J NAGANO 2 29 6| Total 14 11 35 On foot or on pack-horse as far as Shibu (2,250 ft. above the sea) ; thence basha or jinrikisha to Toyo- no ; thence train to Nagano. This route affords splendid scenery. The best plan is to sleep at SMbu (Bins, *Tsubata-ya and others), catching {Hie train at Toyono next-day. Those who do not care to visit the temple of Zen- koji at Nagano, can continue on by rail to Karuizawa and Tokyo. The route is one specially recommended to those who have been taking the sulphur baths at Kusatsu. Instead of going for the "after-cure" to Sawatari — the usual Japanese routine — they can stay en route at Shibu, where there are thermal springs suitable to their needs, and be far more comfortable, as it is one of the cleanest watering-places in Japan. The extreme picturesqueness of the road from Kusatsu to Shibu is purchased at the expense of a long climb. The descent from the top of the pass to the vill. of Shibu is also long and steep. The following mountains come in sight : — Myokd- zan in Echigo, Kurohime, Toga- kushi-san, and Izuna. Some 25 chd from Shibu is an interesting geyser (Ojigoku) in the river bed. An alternative way to Nagano from Kusatsu is over the Yamada- toge, which is comparatively short, and where the baths of Yamada may be visited. Another is over the Torii-toge. Both of these descend to the vill. of Suzaka. The itinerary of the Torii-toge route is as follows : KUSATSU to:— Bi. Chd. M. Mihara 2 6 5J Ozasa « 2 30 7 Tashiro 1 18 3| Torii-toge .. 30 2 Nire 4 24 11 J Suzaka 1 29 4£ NAGANO 3 11 8 Total 17 4 41f This so-called pass is but a gentle ascent of 50 chd. The prettiest part of the route is on the far side of it, where, after leaving the vill. of Nire, the monotony of grassy hills shut- ting out all distant prospect is ex- changed for charming views of the mountains on the borders of Echigo. Jinrikishas can be obtained at Suzaka for the remainder of the journey, during which the volcanic cone of Madarao, besides other mountains mentioned above, are visible. Route 13.— The Ryomo Railway. 159 EOUTE 13. The Eyomo Railway. TEMPLE-CAVES OF IZURU. OF AKAGI-SAN.] [ASCENT 3p£ Names of Remarks. Stations. TOKYO (Ueno). C See Northern 43 m. Oyama < Railway, (. Route 68. 54f Tochigi. 60 Iwafune. ("Alight for 64| SANO < c a v e s of (. Izuru. 71f Ashikaga. 77 Omata. 81 Kiryu. rRoad to Nik- 83 OMAMA < ko by Wata- (. rase-gawa. 87 Kunisada. 91 Iseaaki. 94| Komakata. 99i MAEBASHI. This line of railway, branching off from the Northern line at Oya- ma, which is reached in 2J hrs. from Tokyo, traverses the provinces of Kofcsuke and Shimotsuke. It affords an alternative, though longer, railway route from Tokyo to Maebashi, and is the easiest way of reaching the hot springs of Ikao in one day from Nikko. The scenery is pretty all along the route. Toelligi (Inns, Kanahan, Yoshi- kawa-ya) is one of the most im- portant towns in Shimotsuke. Its chief product is hempen thread. Sano or Temmyo (Inns, Saito, Kiku-ya) is a pretty and prosperous place. Its Public Park lies close to the station. There also exist the ruins of a castle built by Hidesato about 900 years ago. [From Sano an excursion may be made to the very curious limestone caverns of Izuru, where a temple dedicated to Kwannon was founded by Sho- do Shonin in the 8th centuryi In these caves the saint is fabled to have taken up his abode, and passed three years in prayer and meditation. They are about 6 ri distant from Sano on a mountain route to Nikko. Jinrikishas are prac- ticable most of the way to the caves. From the vill. of Izuru, it is a walk of 2 cho up a ravine to the cave called Daishi no Iwaya, the mouth of which is high up amongst the precipi- tous rocks, and is only to be reached by ladders. Further on is the cave sacred to Kwannon, reached by climbing over steep rocks with the assistance of chains, and then by ladders up to a platform on which stand images of Daikoku and Shodo Shonin. The guide lights candles and shows the way into the cave, which con- tains a large stalactite sup- posed to resemble a back view of the body of Kwannon. The cave is evidently much deeper, but pilgrims do not usually go further in. Close by is a hollow in the rock, with two issues. The guide climbs up a ladder to the upper hole, gets inside, and after a minute or two appears, head first, out of the lower. Half a did further is another cave, named after the god Dainichi Nyorai, and having two branches, — one about 50 yds. deep, the other penetrating for an unknown dis- tance into the mountain.] The silk goods produced at Sano, although similar in kind to those of Ashikaga, are much finer in quality. Ashikaga (Inn, Sagami-ro) is a great centre of the trade in native cotton and silk goods, the former, however, mostly woven from foreign yarns. Ashikaga was celebrated for its Aca- demy of Chinese Learning {Ashikaga Gak- kb), the foundation of which institution is 160 Boute 13. — Ashikaga. Ascent of Almgi-san. traditionally ascribed to the eminent scholar Ono-no-Takanmra (A.D. 801—852). It reached the zenith of its prosperity in the time of the Shoguns of the Ashikaga dynasty, its last great benefactor being Uesugi Norizane who died in 1573. This Academy possessed a magnificent library of Chinese works, and was the chief centre of Chinese erudition and of the worship of Confucius until the establish- ment of the Seido at Yedo (p, 102). Most of the books are now dispersed, but the image of Confucius still attracts visitors. Kiryfi (Inns, Kanaki-ya, Yama- ne), is a large town, about 2 ri from its railway station. The chief products are crape, gauze, and Jmbutai, a silk fabric resembling taffety. The large manufactory here, called the Nippon Orimono Kwaisha, is worth inspection. It is furnished with French machinery for the manufacture of satins in European style. A canal has been cut to bring water from the neigh- bouring hills expressly for the use of this factory. Omama (Inn, Tsuru-ya) is situat- ed near the foot of Akagi-san. The picturesque road from here to the copper mines of Ashio by the valley of the Watarase-gawa is described in Route 15. Omama itself is a long straggling town, and, like the other places on this railway route, of little general interest, being entirely devoted to sericulture. Incon- venience is caused by the fact that the railway station lies over 1 ri from the town. Travellers coming down the Watarase-gawa must allow for this. [The extinct volcano of Akagi- san is best ascended from the vill. of Ogo, 3 ri 9 cho from Omama, whence the climb will take from 3| to 4 hrs. Leav- ing the upper end of Ogo vill. the path ascends gently for about 1J hr. through hamlets, and then over a moor dotted with fir-trees to a large stone torii, and thence on to the hamlet of Miyazawa. The remainder of the way is also an_easy climb. About 3 hrs. from Ogo we reach a grassy knoll where the path divides, the 1. branch going to one of the peaks of Akagi known as Nabeivari, the other leading to a lake about 2§m. in circum- ference, and bean-shaped, with a small island in it. The peak ri- sing just above this grassy knoll is Arayama, 4,830 ft. in height, which can be ascended in about f hr. The summit commands a grand panorama of moun- tains: — Fuji S. S. W., Kaigane- san (part of the Koshu Shirane- san) S. W., the numerous peaks of Yatsu-ga-take withTateshina nearly W. S. W., Asama-yama due W., and the Kusatsu Shi- rane about W. N. W. Nearly due N. rises Hodaka-san, one of the loftiest peaks in Kotsuke, easily recognised by its double top. The descent from Ara- yama on the N. side is very steep, but not dangerous, and the path is well-marked. From the knoll above referred to, the main path skirts the E. base of Arayama, and, travers- ing a grassy moorland basin, crosses a col to the temple (Daido) on the margin of the lake. About 2,000 yds. to the r. of the path is a tarn called Konuma, the level of which must be from 250 to 300 ft. higher than that of the larger lake.] Maebaslii, see p. 149. JffiTOGE " y * M v. 1 I Route 14.— Nikko and Neighbourhood. 161 ROUTE 14. Nikko and Neighbourhood. 1. general information. 2. chief objects of interest. 3. objects of minor interest. 4. walks in the neighbourhood. 5. ke- gon-no-taki, chu zenji, nantai- zan, and yumoto. 6. ascent of shirane-san, and of 6-manago and nantai-zan from yumoto. 1. — General Information, A popular Japanese proverb says, " Do not use the word magnificent till you have seen Nikko: " Nikko wo minai uchi wa, " Kekko " to iu na ! Nikko's is a double glory — a glory of nature and a glory of art. Mountains, cascades, monumental forest trees, had always stood there. To these, in the 17th century, were added the mausolea of the illustrious Shogun Ieyasu, founder of the Tokugawa dynasty, and of his scarcely less famous grandson Ie- mitsu. Japanese wood-carving, and paint- ing on wood being then at their zenith, the result was the most perfect assemblage of shrines in the whole land. But though there is gorgeousness, there is no gaudiness. That sobriety which is the key-note of Japanese taste, gives to all the gay designs and bright colours its own chaste character. Properly speaking, Nikko is the name, not of any single place, but of a whole mountainous district lying about 100 miles to the N. of Tokyo. Nevertheless, when people speak of going to Nikko, they ge- nerally mean going to one of the villages called Hachi-ishi and Iri- machi, between which stand the Mausolea. Lying 2,000 ft. above the sea, Nikko is a delightful summer resort, for which reason many foreign residents of Tokyo have villas there, or else at Chuzenji (4,385 ft.), 7J m. further on. The only drawback to the climate is the frequent rain. Within a radius of 15 miles there are no less than twenty-five or thirty pretty cascades. Nikko is noted, among other things, for the glorious tints of its autumn foliage. Nikko is reached in 5 hrs. from Tokyo by the Northern Railway, carriages being changed at Utsuno- miya, where the Nikko branch turns off. Nikko Branch Line. 1 a> £ ox Names of Remarks. B H Stations. r See North- TOKYO (Ueno)... 3 ern Rail- 65|m. UTSUNOMIYA. 1 way, Route km. 69| Togami. 74| Kanuma. 79| Fubasami. 86f Imaichi. 90$ NIKKO (Hachi- ishi). The railway diverges to the W. in order to tap the JReiheishi Kaido at the thriving town of Kanuma, and following that highway lined with ancient cryptomeriaa, does not come in sight of the other and still more imposing avenue ( Nikko Kaido), 20 m. in length, leading from Utsunomiya to Nikko, until Imaichi is reached, where the two roads join. The JReiheishi Kaido was so called be- cause in old days the Reiheishi, or Envoy of the Mikado, used to travel along" it, bearing gifts from his Imperial master to be offered at the Mausoleum of Ieyasu. Pine views of the Nikko mountains are obtained on the r. between Utsunomiya and Togami ; later, Nantai-zan alone is seen towering above a lower range in the fore- ground ; then the lofty cryptornerias of the Reiheishi Kaido, close to which the railway runs, shut out the prospect until a break occurs 10 min. beyond Fubasami, when the whole mass appears on the 1. ahead. 162 Route 14. — Nikko and Neighbourhood. The village of Ilachiishi, being a long one, and the railway only touch- ing its lower end, there remains a stretch of 1J m. to be done by jinrikisha from the station to the hotels. Hotels.— *Kanaya Hotel, *Nikko Hotel, *Arai, Suzuki, all in European style ; Konishi-ya, Kamiyama, Jap. style. Foreign stores and fresh meat can be obtained at Masaju in the vtiL, close to the Red Bridge. Means of conveyance. — Chairs, Jcagos, or pack-horses can be taken to such places as are not accessible by jinrikisha. There is a fixed scale of charges. Guides are in attendance at the Hotels, and will arrange for the purchase of tickets of admittance to the Mausolea. Additional small charges are made at various points within the building. Membership of the Hokdrkwai, or Nikko Preser- vation Society ($5) confers the per- manent privilege of admission to all the temples without further fees. The Mausolea of the Shoguns are open daily from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Visitors must remove their boots at the entrance of the main shrines. Nikko is a mart for skins of the badger, deer, marten, wild-boar, etc., and various pretty articles made of a black fossil wood (jindai-boku) brought from Sendai in the north. History. — The range of mountains known as Nikko-zan li-s on the N.YV. boundary of the province of Shimotsuke. The original name was Futa-ara-yama, which, when written with Chinese ideo- graphs, may also be pronounced Ni-ko-zan. According to the popular account, the name was derived from periodical hurri- canes in spring and autumn, which issued from a great cavern on Nantai-zan, the mountain to the N. E. of Chuzenji. In A.D. 8-20 Kot'.o Daishi visited the spot, made a road to the neighbourhood of the cavern, and changed the name of the range to Nikl which smacks of Buddhism, has been officially altered to Chugushi, fp Is J}r1> which is Shinto ; but the old name is still currently used. which is only occupied by pilgrims for a few days in July or August, the period for the ascent of Nantai-zan as a religious exercise varying from year to 3^ear according to the old lunar calendar. As many as ten thousand sleep at the vill. during those few days. The houses stand in long rows, containing for the most part two rooms, one above and one below. Fair accommo- dation can be had at the inns, — Kome-ya and Izumi-ya, — which have pleasant rooms looking out on the lake, and European food can be obtained during the summer mouths. The temple here is said to have been founded by Shodo Shonin, in A.D. 816, after his ascent of Nantai-zan. The space between the bronze torii and the temple itself is considered holy ground, and persons in jinriki- shas or kagos had better go along the lower road if they object to being required to alight in order to pass through. Close to the temple is the gate of Nantai-zan, which is closed except during the pilgrim season, when entrance tickets can be purchased for 25 cents. The ascent, occupying about 3 hrs., is extremely steep ; but the lovely view from the summit (8,150 ft.) well repays the exertion. The best time to see it is at sunrise ; so a very early start should be made with lanterns. On the S.E. lies the plain stretching towards Tokyo ; on the W. rises the lofty cone of Shirane-san ; further S. is Koshin- zan ; below lies the marshy basin of Senjo-ga-hara with the stream meandering through it, the blue lake of Chuzenji, a glimpse of Lake Yumoto, and N. of Shirane, the peaks of Taro-zan, O-Manago, Ko- Manago, and Nyoho-zan. Fuji is also visible in clear weather. The ascent can also be made from Yu- moto in about 5 hrs. (see p. 177). Lake Clinzenji lies at the foot of Nantai-zan, being surrounded on the other sides by comparatively low hills covered with trees to their very summit. Its greatest length from E. to W. is estimated at 3 r% its breadth at 1 ri. Soundings show the extraordinary depth of 93 fa- thoms, shallowing down towards Senju and more rapidly towards Kegon. The lake, formerly devoid of life, now abounds with excellent salmon, salmon-trout, iivana, and other fish, with which it was stocked between the years 1873 and 1890 by the Japanese Government. The sal- mon and salmon-trout can only be taken with rod and line, whilst the iwana, a species of white trout which never come to the fisherman's bait, are the only fish taken in the nets. The height of Lake Chuzen- ji above the sea is 4,375 ft. Several small temples, which are visited by the pilgrims, add to the picturesgueness of its shores. The 176 Route 14. — Nikko and Neighbourhood. prettiest are those at Senju near its W. extremity, and one on a pro- montory near the hamlet of Ase looking towards the sacred islet of Kozuke-shima and Nantai-zan. The road to Yumoto lies for about 1 ri along the N. shore, at the edge of the forest covering the base of Nantai-zan, as far as a promontory called Shobu-no-hama, or Iwa-ga- saki, to which' point boats may be taken. [At the far end of the lake stands a small shrine close to a brook remarkable for the icy coldness of its water. This is a pleasant spot for a picnic, and is within J hr. walk of the Nishi-no-zimi, a tarn nestling beneath the wooded hills which, at this end, recede from Lake Chuzenji] . Just beyond the promontory, the road turns away from the lake and soon crosses the Jigoku-no-kawa, a slender stream which hurries over smooth rocks. Rest and shelter may be had at a hut close by. A little further on, a path branches oil r. through the grass to a cave called Jigoku - no - kama (Hell's Cauldron) at the base of Nantai- zan. The road ascends slightly after leaving the hut, and a few steps away to the 1. bring us to the foot of the Ryuzu-ga-taki, or Dragon's Head Cascade, the most curious of all the cascades in this neighbourhood. It consists of a series of small falls rushing over steep black rocks and forming two streams. In order to obtain a full view, the first stream must be crossed. On the L, the second stream plunges down through deep, dark hollows in the rock, and loses itself in hidden windings. The maples at this spot, during the month of October, display the most glorious tints that can be imagined. Beyond this, the road is through a desolate forest which was ravaged by fire some years ago. At length it emerges on the Senjo-ga-hara, or Moor of the Battle-field, so named on account of an engage- ment that took place here in A.D. 1389 between the partisans of the Ashikaga Shoguns and those of the Southern dynasty of Mikados (see p. 54). An alternative name is Akanuma-ga-hara, or Moor of the Red Swamp, derived from the colour of the tall dying sedges in autumn. The irises also are a wonderful sight in July. This wide solitude is bound- ed on all side by forests, above which rise the peaks of Nantai-zan, O-Ma- nago, Ko-Manago, and Taro-zan. Far away on the 1. is a wooded elevation, in the centre of which the cascade of Yu-no-taki appears like a silver thread. Above this rises the volcano of Shirane-san, the only bare peak in the vicinity. The road crosses the plain to a point not far from the Yu-no-taki, where it begins to rise through a wood of oaks. The bottom of the ascent is 21 chb from Yumoto. Half-way through the wood, a path diverges 1. to the foot of the cascade, which gushes over a smooth black rock at an angle of 60°, forming a stream that feeds the Ryuzu-ga- taki, and finally falls into Lake Chuzenji. Its perpendicular height is just 200 ft. A narrow steep path by its side leads up to the top, some 60 yds. from the shore of Lake Yumoto, so called from the hot springs at its further end. This lake, though smaller than Lake Chu- zenji, is still more beautiful. The road winds through the wood along the E. side of the lake to the small villi of Yumoto, (Inns, Namma-ya, Ya- mada-ya), 5,000 ft. above the sea. Here the water is partially dis- coloured by the sulphur springs. There are altogether ten springs, some under cover, others exposed to the open air, all open to the public and frequented by both sexes promiscuously. A picturesque alternative way back from Chuzenji to Nikko, available only for pedestrians and taking Ascent of Shirane, O-Manago, and Nantai. 177 about 3 hrs. to Futami-ya, is to cross the bridge over the stream issuing from the lake just above Kegon, and follow the path that leads up the opposite hill called Kobu-ga-hara-toge. After reaching the top, 1J hr. from Chuzenji, a short walk on the level brings one to some huge granite boulders called Kaga- ishi, commanding a magnificent view. The path then descends, and in J hr. joins the Ashio-Nikko road, whence, if ordered beforehand, jinrikishas may be availed of for the rest of the way home. 6. — Ascent _of Shirane-san. As- cent op O-Manago and Nantai- zan from yumoto. Shiraiie-san is a volcano 8,800 ft. high, and was active as recently as 1889. The ascent is very rough and steep, and should not be at- tempted without a guide. For the ascent allow 4 J hrs., for the descent, 3 hrs. ; but considerable time is needed for a survey of the top, so that a whole day is none too little for the expedition. There is no water on the mountain side. The first part of the climb is the roughest of all, leading over Mae- Shi- rane (Front Shirane), a ridge which looks as if it had been part of the wall of a crater, and that within comparatively recent times a new and higher cone had been formed inside its W. limb, which had nearly filled up the original crater, leaving only the intervening valley on its E. side, the bottom of which slopes off from the centre N. and S. The N. end contains a tarn of a remark- able green colour. Descending from Mae-Shirane, we cross the old crater floor, and then ascend Shirane proper {Oku- Shirane). The cone has a great rent down the side, which is kept on the r. in going up, and a deep crater at the top whose edges are very rotten. From the top, which is honeycombed with other small craters, the view is superb. The way leading to O-ManagO takes one first along the Chuzenji road as far as Senjo-ga-hara, where we turn to the 1. close by a fa- vourite cold spring. We then skirt the moor, passing through a thick wood, and after 2£ hrs. from Yu- moto, arrive at a shrine containing a stone image of Shozuka-uo-Baba, with a strange medley of ex-votos hanging outside. Shortly after- wards we turn to the 1., and in \ hr. reach the torii of O-Manago. The distance to the summit is 1 ri& clio, the real ascent beginning at a bronze image of Fudo on a large stone pedestal. Three-quarters of the way up, we come to another bronze image erected in honour of the mountain god of Ontake in Shinshu ; and the last bit of the ascent is over precipitous rocks, where chains are fixed to assist the climber. On the top stands a wooden shrine, with a bronze image behind it, said to be Kunitoko-tachi, the Earth-god. The view is less extensive than that from Nantai-zan. In order to ascend Naiiffti-zau from this, the Yumo- to side, it is not necessary to go all the way up O-Manago, as a path to Nantai diverges r. at the torii above-mentioned. In this way Nantai-zan can be ascended with greater ease than from Chuzenji. The whole climb, part of which is stiff and leads over roots of trees, takes from 4J to 5 hrs. Japanese pilgrims make the round of the various mountains near Nikko by ascending first Nyoho- zan and then Ko-Manago, descend- ing to a place called Sabusawa, and ascending O-Manago from the back. They sleep at the Shizu hut, climb Taro-zan in the forenoon, Nantai- zan in the afternoon, and descend to Chuzenji. 178 Boute 15. — From Nikko to Ikao via Ashio. ROUTE 15. Fbom Nikko to Ikao by the Valley of the Wataease-gawa. [koshin - zan.] [chuzenji to Ashio.] Itinerary. NIKKO to:- Ri. Clio. M. Top of pass 3 8 8 ASHIO 3 2 7J Sori 2 21 6| Godo 2 12 5| Hanawa 1 — 2J OMAMA 3 4 7J Total 15 11 37J From Omama to Tokyo by train in 4 J hrs. Or from Omama by train in § hr. to Maebashi, whence see Route 12. The road from Nikko to Omama over the Hoso-o Pass, whose sum- mit is 4,100 ft. above sea level, is very rough, but generally practic- able for jinrikishas. Pedestrians may avail themselves of numerous short-cuts on the way up. The Watarase-gawa is reached before entering Ashio (Inns, Izumi-ya, Tsuru-ya). This place, famed for its copper mines, which are the most produc- tive in Japan, lies in a deep valley at an altitude of about 2,300 ft. The Mines, of which there are two in the neighbourhood, bear re- spectively the names of Ashio and Kotaki, and are about 3 m. from the town. Persons desirous of in- specting the mines should obtain an introduction from the Head Office in Tokyo. The ore is found in a matrix of clay, calcite, and quartz, and is almost entirely the pyrite or copper sulphide, although a small quantity of oxide also occurs. The lodes vary from 6 to 20 ft. in width. The most approved modern processes of treat- ing the ore are in use. The electricity for the motors in the Ashio mine is generated by water-power at a station about \% m. distant. The average yield is 19 per cent. of metal, and the total annual product of finished metal from the two mines reaches the remarkable figure of 3,600 tons. A rope-way some 3 miles in length has been constructed over the Ashio Pass for con- venience of transport. It consists of a continuous steel-rope, 6 m. long, carried on posts, and revolving on two drums, one a,t each end. Immense hooks are fastened to the rope by thin copper bands at a distance of about 80 or 100 yds. apart, the ascending line carrying bags of coke or coal, the descending, bars of smelted ore weighing 63 lbs. each. At some points the wire is several hundreds of feet above the ground. A horse tramway now con- nects Nikko with the rope-way. It should be borne in mind that by making an early start from Nikko over the Hoso-o Pass or from Chuzenji by the path described on p. 180, the Ashio mines may be taken en route, and done on the same day. Six miles will thus be saved either way. The Kotaki mines are in another direction, on the way to Koshin-zan ; but it is difficult to combine a visit to the rocks and the mines in one day. [An extra day at Ashio may well be devoted to visiting the wonderful rocks of KosliSn-zan. It is a distance of about 1 m. from Ashio to the cross-roads, where the 1. leads to Omama, and the r. to Kotaki and Ko- shin-zan. From the cross- roads to the mines is approx- imately If m., whence to the point called Bessho, 4,500 ft., where the rock scenery be- gins, the distance has been estimated at 6 m. In order to visit the rocks, it is necessary to engage the services of a guide who lives at the hut. The whole round will take about 2 J hrs., and is perfectly safe for all except those who are apt to be troubled with dizziness. Leaving the hut by the path on the S. side, we commence the round of the rocks, scram- bling up and down the steepest places imaginable, traversing deep ravines on rough foot bridges, and crawling round the face of precipices by the aid of Kosliin-zan. The Watarase-gawa. 179 iron chains and foot-steps cut in the solid rock. For such work the waraji is of great convenience. A point called Mi- harashi commands a magnifi- cent prospect of the dense forest-covered mountains below, and Tsukuba-san in the distant plain. Behind, the eye rests upon the gigantic rockwork, amidst which conifers have perched themselves in inacces- sible nooks and crannies. To the various features of the landscape, more or less fanciful names have been given. The most striking are the San-jit- san-gen, a mass of precipices dedicated to Kwannon ; the Spring dedicated to Yakushi, the waters of which are believed to be efficacious in -cases of eye disease ; the Kinoko-seki, or Mushroom Hock, beyond which comes the Yagura-seki, supposed to resem- ble the towers on the walls of a fortress; next the TJrami-ga- taki, or Back View Cascade, which falls from a ledge above in silvery threads. The huge precipice close by is called the Go-shiki no seki, or Rock of the Five Colours. The guide points out a rock, the Men-seki, in which a remote likeness to a human face may be traced. Above this is the Go-ju no To, or Five-storied Pagoda, and near it, a small natural arch called the Ichi no mon. Creep- ing through this, the path reaches the Bonji-seki, or Sanskrit Character Bocks, next passing the Raiko-dani, a deep gully supposed to have some occult relation with the ori- gin of thunder-storms ; the Toro-iwa, or Stone-lantern Rock; the Fuji-mi-seki, whence the upper half of Fuji is seen ; the Shishi-seki, or Lion Rock ; the Ogi-iwaya, or Fan Cavern ; and the Zo-seki, or Elephant Hock. Next we come to where a huge natural bridge, called the Ama no hashi, or Bridge of Heaven, used to span the ravine until destroyed by an earthquake in 1824. On the other side is a hole about 6 ft. in diameter, called Ni no mon, or Second Gate, where the bridge terminated. Ascending from this point a very narrow crevice by the aid of chains, the path reaches the Mi-harashi already mentioned. Then pass- ing behind a precipitous de- tached rock, called the Bydbu- iiva from its resemblance to a screen, we ascend a gorge, and finally reach the Oku-no-in (5,450 ft.), where in three caverns are small shrines de- dicated _to the three Shinto deities Onamuji, Saruta-hiko, and Sukuna-bikona. It was the second of these whose worship was originally established on this mountain under the title of Koshin. On turning the corner just beyond, we see the tops of Nantai-zan and O- Manago bearing about N., and descending the hillside, reach the Bessho again in 25 min. from the Oku-no-in. The de- scent to the huts at the base of the mountain will take nearly 2J hrs.] The scenery the whole way along the banks of the Watarase-gawa is delightful, and especially between Ashio and Godo quite romantic. Occasionally the road actually over- hangs the river, which now flows on in a perfectly placid course, while at others it foams and dashes amidst tremendous boulders. After passing Sori (Inn, Komatsu-ya), a glade of fine cryptomerias attests the priestly care formerly bestowed on the temple of Tenno. The road then winds up and down the thickly wooded side of the valley, high above the rushing waters of the river to 180 Route 16.— From Nikko to Ikao over the Konsei-toge. fiiodo (Inn, Tama-ya), and Hauawa {Inn, Wakamatsu-ya). After the latter place it becomes less picturesque, leading for most of the way across a cultivated plateau. The vill. seen on the r. bank of the river beyond Hanawa is Mizunuma (Inn by * Midori Genki- chi), from which it is possible to ascend Akagi-san by a shorter though rougher route than that from Ogo. Large quantities of ai are taken both with the fly and the net in the Watarase-gawa, which is rejoined just above Omanta (Inn, Tsuru-ya), seep. 160. [An alternative way from Nikko to Ashio is via Chuzenji, whence over the mountains in about 5 hrs. steady walking by a path impracticable for conveyances of any sort. A boat is taken across the lake from Chu- zenji to Ase-ga-hama, \ hr., whence a climb of 8 cho leads through a wood to the crest of the Asegata-tbge, commanding a beautiful prospect. Tier upon tier rise the forest-clad ridges that close in the valley of the Watarase. The way down the pass lies through narrow valleys between steep and scantily wooded hills, and over rough stones along the torrent bed. About 10 m. from Chu- zenji the flourishing mining vill. of Akakura, with its copper smelting works, is passed ; whence to Ashio some 2J m. further on, the road, though rough and stony, is practicable for jinrikishas.] ROUTE 16. From Nikko to Ikao over the Konsei-toge. Itinerary. NIKKO :— Ri. Clio. M. Chuzenji 3 12 7J Yumoto 2 27 6| Top of Konsei Pass 1 18 3| Higashi Ogawa 4 18 11 Sukagawa 1 18 3f Okkai 2 — 5 Ohara 1 8 3 Takahira 1 23 1 NUMATA 2 13 5f Tanashita 2 15 6 Shibukawa 2 34 7J IKAO 2 17 6 Total 28 23 70 On this route an idea is gained of the dense forest that covers so large a portion of the cen- tral mountain-range ; and the val- leys of the Katashina-gawa and Tonegawa, down which most of the latter part of the way leads, are most picturesque. Travellers wish- Tokyo this way Ikao can join Maebashi, 3 ri Shibukawa, the iDg to return to without visiting the railway at 27 cho beyond railway journey occupying 3J hrs. The means of transport for bag- gage on this route are : — coolies over the Konsei-toge to Higashi-Ogawa, horses not being taken across the pass ; horses to Numata, and thence jinrikisha or basha. To start from Nikko itself makes an awkward division of the journey. The start should be made from Chuzenji, in which case, sleeping the first night at Higashi Ogawa and the second at Numata, the traveller will reach Ikao on the afternoon of the third day. The way up the Konsei-toge is a continued gentle ascent through a forest with an undergrowth of bam- boo grass, terminating in a steep climb. From the top of the pass on TIte Konsei-toge. Numata. 181 looking round, are seen the thickly wooded slopes converging towards the dark waters of Lake Yum o to, behind which looms up in bold relief the massive form of Nantai- zan, flanked on the 1. by O-Manago. To the r. a glimpse is caught of a portion of Lake Chuzenji, while Mount Tsukuba rises in the distant plain beyond. On the Joshu side the thick foliage intercepts all view, and there is an equal absence of distant prospect during the whole of the long downward walk, neither is there any sign of human habita- tion in the forest, except a solitary hunter's hut. Even this is desert- ed during the summer, at which season alone the tourist will think of coming this away, since the road is practically impassable from the end of October to well on in March. The foliage is very fine, and in the higher part of the forest a peculiar effect is produced by a drapery of moss, hanging in gray filaments from the branches of the tall conifers. On nearing Ogawa-no-Yumoto, a few huts with thermal springs about 1 ri from the vill. of Higashi Ogawa, the path follows a stream flowing down from Shiran e-san. Higaslii Ogawa (Inn, by Kurata Rinzaburo) is 2,300ft. above the sea. The Ogawa, from which this vill. takes its name, is a small tributar}^ of the Katashina-gawa, itself an affluent of the Tonegawa. Leaving Higashi Ogawa, and con- tinuing down the valley of the Ogawa, dotted with many hamlets, we cross over a hill before reaching Sukagawa in the valley of the Katashina-gawa. From a ridge at the foot of which lie two hamlets with curious names — Hikage Chido- ri, or Shady Chidori, and Hinata- Chidori, or Sunny Chidori, — there is a fine view, on looking back, of this valley stretching far away to the N. The two hamlets are situated on opposite sides of the stream, and united by a bridge. Observe the terrace-like formation of the hills at the back of Hikage Chidori and all the way on to below Numata. Three terraces at least 2 m. long are distinctly marked, each of the lower two being a few hundred yards wide, and the upper one, surmounted by the usual irregular ridge, being from J to f m. in width. The course of these ridges, which seem to mark the suc- cessive positions at different periods of a river bank, is S. W. by N.E. We next reach Okkai (Lin, by Hoshino), near which the river dashes between perpendicular walls of porphyry. [Opposite Okkai, on the far side of a small affluent of the Kata- shina-gawa, lies the vill. of Oyu. This place may be taken as a starting-point for the climb of Akagi-san (see p. 160), the descent being made to Numata on the other side.] The path now leaves the valley of the Katashina-gawa, and crossing a well-cultivated upland, comes to Ohara (Inn, Kishi-ya), whence it winds over the hills and up the Kazusaka-toge. The view from this point is superb, including Haruna- san, the Koshti Koma-ga-take, Yatsu-ga-take, Asama-yama, Yaha- zu-yama, and the Shiran e of Kusa- tsu. At Takaliira, the road becomes level and practicable for jinrikisbas. Numata (Inn, Odake-ya) was formerly a castle-town. Soon after passing it we enter the valley of the Tonegawa, where trout-fishing is briskly carried on. A portion of the river is enclosed with stones and fences running out from each bank towards the centre of the stream, where a bamboo platform inclined at an angle of about 15° is fixed upon baskets filled with stones. The water rushes up this platform and leaves the fish at the top. They are then caught, and kept alive in perforated boxes which are placed on the platform. The scenery is very picturesque almost the whole way from Numata to Shibukawa, 182 Route 17. — Hitachi, Shimosa, Kazusa, and Boshu. the road passing high and rugged cliffs that overhang the Tonegawa. At one point, where the cliff rising sheer from the river allows no room for a pathway, a passage about 50 ft. long has been cut through the solid rock. [About 1J m. before reaching Shibukawa, a road diverges 1. to Maebashi via the villag9S of Shiroi and Hasseki, whence a narrow pathway tunnelled through the rock in many places leads along the bank of the Tonegawa to the bridge crossed by the tram from Ikao to Maebashi.] Sliibukawn is a considerable town. Hence to Ikao is, for the most part, a gentle ascent over grassy mountain slopes. For a de- tailed account of Ikao and Neigh- bourhood, see Route 12. EOUTE 17. Trips in the Provinces op Hita- chi, Shimosa, Kazusa, and Bo- shu. 1. tokyo to tsukuba-san, kasama, and mito. 2. tokyo to narita, kadori, choshi, and kashima. 3. kashima to mito. 4. tokyo to kisarazu, kano-zan, noko- giri - yama, and tateyama. 5. hoyo to kominato. 6. ways back from kominato. These four provinces form a natural division of the country, all partaking more or less of the same characteristics of flatness and sandiness. The opinion of geologists is that a great part of this district, whose sands seem to have been washed up by the sea, together with the wide Tokyo plain which is formed by alluvium washed down from the central mountain-ranges, was submerged in quite recent times, and that only the southern half of the peninsula of Kazusa-Boshu stood up out of the waves. This process of rising and drying is still going on. The large lagoons on the lower course of the Tonegawa gradually shrink in size, and the same is true of Tokyo Bay. From these considerations, it will be in- ferred that parts of this district are somewhat dreary travelling. Mount Tsukuba (2,880 ft.) in the N., and the S. portion from Kano-zan downwards, with tuff ranges which, though not ex- ceeding 1,200 ft., seem higher because rising almost directly from the sea, will best repay the tourist's trouble. In the S. more particularly, there are lovely views, as well as a mild winter climate due to the Kuroshio, or Japanese Gulf- Stream. The three provinces of Shimosa, Kazu- sa, and Boshu anciently formed one, under the name Fusa no Kuni, said to have been derived from the excellent quality of the hemp grown there. The district was subsequently divided into Upper and Lower, or Kami tsu Fusa and Shimo tsu Fusa, contracted into Kazusa and Shimosa, and part of the former was subsequently constituted into the province of Awa, better known by its Chinese name of Boshu. "Upper " and " Lower" seem to have been employed to denote the relative proximity of these two provinces to the ancient capital. Kazusa, Boshu, and the greater part of Shimosa now constitute the prefecture of Chiba, called after a town situated on the E. shore of Tokyo Buy, The rest of Shimosa and Hitachi are included in the prefecture of Ibaraki, of which Mito is the capital. 1. — Ascent op Tsukuba. Kasama and Mito. Mito Railway. CD 1st Names * c M of Remarks. s ^ Stations. TOKYO (Ueno). {■ See Northren Railway, 48 m. OYAMA Jet ( Route 68. 52i Yuki. 54^- Kawashima. 58| Shimodate ( Alight for 1 Tsukuba. 661 Iwase. 71 Fukuhara. 75 Kasama. 78| Shishido. m Uchihara. S9| MITO. The journey by rail to Shimodate,, the station for Tsukuba, occupies a little over 3 hrs. Jinrikishas can i Ascent of Tsuhiiba-san. Kasama. 183 thence be taken to the vill. of Oshima, near the foot of the moun- tain, a distance of about 4 ri over a level and fairly good road ; and although the ascent to the vill. of Tsukuba is 1 hr. rough walking, the whole journey may be accomplished in an afternoon from Tokyo. There is fair accommodation at Sllimodate (Inn, Tomo-ya) ; but it is best to push on to Tsukuba, where the inns are better. The jinrikisha-men will act as guides as far as the cleanly little vill. of Tsukuba {Inn, *Edo-ya), which lies about half-way up the moun- tain, and contains numerous houses much frequented by the people of the province of Hitachi. Most of the inns command a fine view of the plain of Tokyo, stretching away towards Fuji. The ascent of the mountain begins immediately after leaving the vill., the path passing through the grounds of a temple. From this point to the summit of the W. peak, called Nantai-zan ( Male Mountain ), the distance is about 50 cho. This is the usual ascent, being less steep than the path up the E. and lower peak, Nyotai-zan (Female Mountain). At the summit are numerous shrines, of which the chief is dedicated to Izanagi. Similarly, the temple on Nyotai-zan is dedicated to his con- sort Izanami. There is a magnifi- cent view of the Tokyo plain, Fuji, Asama-yama, and the Nikko range. The name Tsukuba is said to be com- posed of two Chinese words meaning " built bank ; " and the leg-end is that Iza- nagi and Izanami constructed the moun- tain as a bulwark against the waves of the Pacific Ocean, which they bad forced to retire to the other side of Kashima, formerly an island in the sea. This tradition is in accordance with the fact, recently verified by geologists, that the E. shores of Japan have been gradually rising during many centuries past. One legend says that Tsukuba is a fragment of the sacred mountain in China called Godai-san, which broke off and flew over to Japan. This is supposed to account for the peculiar plants found on it. But the fact is that no botanical species occur here that are not also found on other Japanese mountains, although the inhabi- tants of the vicinity, noticing the differ- ence between the floras of the mountain and the plain, might naturally be led to attribute a miraculous origin to the former. Pines and cryptomerias cover the mountain, and the rocks about the summits are awkward to scramble over, the assistance of an iron chain being necessary in parts. From the W. to the E. peak is an interval of about j m. The descent from the latter is 70 did. It passes over and between huge rocks, to which fanciful names have been given, from their supposed resem- blance to portions of the human body. The ascent and descent take about 4 hrs. Leaving Shimodate, the train reaches in 1 hr. the small town of Kasama (Inn, *Itsutsu-ya), stand- ing at the base of a lofty hill whose summit was formerly crowned by the castle of the Daimyd Makino Etchu-uo-Kami. The site is easily reached by a path leading from the broad main street of the town. At intervals, traces are still visible of the old stone-faced embankments, of small but deep dry ditches, and of narrow bridges and heavy gate- ways. At the summit are steep flighfcs of stone steps, and above all is the limited space originally occupied by the Daimyo's palace, round which runs a high earthen embankment. The place is in- teresting, and gives a good idea of the style of Japanese fortifications where nature rather than art had, raised the defences. The strong- hold must, under any circum- stances, have been well-nigh im- pregnable. The Temple of Inari, once of high repute, is small in size. It stands on the 1. of the main street, the approach being up a narrow alley, through an almost continuous archway of tor Li, placed within a few inches of each other. The wood-carvings in the chapel are beautiful, the human figures being exceptionally well-formed. There is a jinrikisha road from 184 Route 17. — Hitachi, SMmma, Kazusa, and Boshu. Kasama to Mito (4>£ ri) ; but it is not recommended if the train be available. The time by rail is 50 rain. As tlie train approaches Mito, a number of cavities are seen on the 1. in the high bluff on which a portion of the town is built. These galleries were hollowed out for the sake of the blocks used in the manufacture of soft-stone furnaces. Mito (Inn, Suzuki-ya, with a branch establishment near the rail- way station), the principal town of the province of Hitachi and capital of the prefecture of Iba- raki, lies some 3 ri inland from the shore of the Pacific Ocean, on rising ground in the midst of a wide plain. The town is in three divi- sions, the Lower Town, the Upper Town, and the Castle Enclosure which lies between the other two. The castle, where formerly lived the Princes of Mito, is picturesquely situated on the crest of the lofty ground that rises from the plain. The defences consisted of deep trenches on the upper town side, and lofty banks — the edge of the hill, in fact — on the other, with a small moat below. Three large gates and one tower still remain. It is worth walking round the castle and under the beautiful trees within the grounds. The Public Garden on the E. of the upper town, over- looking the large mere of Semba, is also prettily situated. It was laid out some forty-five years a.uo by Rekko, Prince of Mito, as a retreat for himsslf after handing over the cares of government to his successor. A good view is obtained from the summer-house in the garden, where men of letters formerly assembled to write verses and practise penman- ship. The staple manufactures of Mito are cloth and paper. Tobacco is aiso made into cigarettes in large quantities, and a considerable ex- port trade is carried on in both salt and fresh-water fish. The visitor with time to spare may run out by jinrikisha to the pleasant sea-side vill. of Oarai(Inn, Kimpa-ro), 3J ri, a favourite retreat of the Mito folk. 2. — Tokyo to [Chiba,] Nabita, [Kasamobi,] Kadobi, [Choshi,] and kashima. Itinerary. TOKYO to :— Ri. CM. M. Ichikawa 3 25 9 Yawata 29 2 Funabashi 1 12 3} Owada 2 28 6| Usui 2 — 5 SAKURA 1 13 3£ Shusui 1 3 2J NARITA 2 9 5J Ino 3 15 8| Sawara 2 26 6| Kadori 28 2 Tsunomiya 18 1J ( Ofunatsu boat ) KASHIMA — 18 — ) CHOSHI (boat) . . 10 15 25J Total 33 5 81 Omnibuses ply between Ryogoku- bashi (Tokyo) aud Chiba, leaving either place several times daily. A small steamer also runs daily, mak- ing the passage in 3^ hrs. An omnibus leaves Ryogoku-bashi at 7 a.m. daily for Narita ; but jinriki- shas, which are procurable at the omnibus office at fixed rates, are to be preferred. In any case the omnibus would have to be left in order to visit the shrine of Sakura Sogoro, which is off the main road to Narita, but approachable by jinriki- sha. The road is nearly level the whole way, a remark applicable to this route in general. The Ichi- kawa ferry (Inn, Musashi-ya on the far side) over the Yedogawa marks the Treaty Limit at this point. Half a mile to the 1., on the 1. bank of the river, lies the bluff of Kdnodai described on p. 121. Yawata (Inn, Nakamura-ya) takes its name from a temple stand- ing on the 1. side of the village street. The buildings are poor; but by Chiba. ' Sakura. 185 the side of the chapel is a remarkable icho tree, the trunk of which, about 10 ft. in diameter, has the ap- pearance of being formed of some 40 or 50 trees of different sizes, growing together like a huge faggot. A little further r. is a small grove of bamboos and keyaki-tvees to which the villagers attribute peculiar powers. Tradition avers that Kornon, the second Prince of Mito, having heen bold enough to venture within, was thrown to the ground by some supernatural agency. Fearing to offend the spirit of the grove, the villagers have always remained igno- rant of its mysteries, and have therefore given it the name of Ymoata Shirazu, or " Yawata Knows-not." Fun abash i {Inn, Ebi-ya) is a large town, a little way inland from Tokyo Bay. This place is celebrated as having been the rendezvous of the village chiefs who, in 1644, headed by the famous Sakura Sogoro, proceeded to Yedo to protest against the tyranny of the lord of Sakura. Even to protest was in those days a capi- tal offence, acquiescence in all the man- dates of his superiors being an inferior's sole and sufficient duty. Not Sogoro only was put to death : his wife was crucified with him, and their three children de- capitated before their eyes. One, a child of seven, was butchered as he was eating the sweetmeats thrown to him by the compassionate spectators. This pathetic story is graphically told in Yol. II. of Mitford's Tales of Old Japan. [The carriage road, 4J ri, to Chiba (Inns Kano-ya, Umematsu-ya), capital of the prefecture of the same name, diverges r. at the end of the main street of Funa- bashi. This prefecture ranks next to Yezo in the abundance of its marine products, the dis- trict of Kujukuri to the S. of Cape Inuboe affording the richest field. Three miles be- fore reaching the city, at the fishing hamlet of Inage, is a bathing establishment called Kaiki-kwan, where it may be pleasanter to stop than at Chiba. At Imai, just outside Chiba, and the succeeding vills. along the coast, a considerable manu- facture of starch from the sweet potato, is carried on. A good 3 m. walk from Chiba is to the ancient Temple of Daiganji, standing in a pine forest where thousands of cor- morants roost and build their nests. There is a finely graded road from Chiba to Sakura and Narita through pleasant coun- try. The total distance to Narita is about 8 ri ; but this may be shortened by taking the branch road which diverges at the hamlet of Doi, and re- joins in 1 hr. the main road to Narita at the town of Shusui.] After Funabashi, the road traverses an upland country where some of the best rice in Japan is grown; it then passes over the wide undulating moor of Narashino, where the troops forming the Tokyo garrison are occasionally re- viewed. On the 1. are seen some barracks for their accommodation. The locality is believed to be haunted by the magic foxes and badgers that play so important a part in Japanese folk-lore. A little beyond Owada (Inns, Masu-ya, Naka- mura-ya), the narrow canal which brings the Imba lagoon into com- munication with Tokyo Bay is crossed. Usui (Inn, Ota-ya) is a good- sized posting-station on the S. shore of the lagoon. Sakura {Inn, Kome-ya) is a gar- rison town. At an angle of the road 1., before reaching the town and just within view of the castle site, is the old execution-ground, where the farmer Sogoro and his family suffered death in 1645. A large memorial-stone now marks the spot. The road passes through the lower town by the side of the moat, and rises into the upper town. The castle was formerly the residence of the chief of the Hotta family, which furnished many statesmen to the Goroju, 186 Route 17. — Hitachi, Shimosa, Kazusa, and Boshu. or Chief Council of the Tokugawa Shoguns. Its site is now occupied by barracks. A short distance beyond Shnsni (Inn, Kome-ya), a road diverges 1. for about 1 n to a shrine erected in Kozu-mura to the memory of Sakura Sogoro. The buildings are all the outcome of modern piety, plain and substantial, but adorned with carvings of aver- age merit. Charms bearing the name and pictures of the martyred peasant with his wife and children sell in large numbers. Close by on the r. is Sogoro's grave, where in- cense is kept perpetually burn- ing. It is not necessary to retrace one's steps, as the road from Sogoro's shrine continues on until it rejoins the main road again close to Narita. Narita (Inns, Ebi-ya, Wakama- tsu-ya) is famed for its great Temple of Fudo, to which pilgrimages are made from all parts of the country. The wood-carvings adorning it are specially noteworthy. The full name of this holy place is Narlta-san Shingo Shi7ishoji, i.e. " the Divinely Protected Temple of Recent Vic- tory on Mount Narita." The story of its origin is as follows : — At the time of the foundation of the Buddhist faith, an Indian sculptor named Bishukatsuma carved a wonder-working image of the god Fudo (see pp. 41-2), which image, after the lapse of many centuries, was sent to China, where it passed into the hands of a holy priest named Keikwa Ajari. When the great Japanese saint, Kobo Daishi, visited China in A.D. 804, to seek instruction in Buddhist mysteries, this priest it was who became his teacher ; and when teacher and disciple were about to part, each was warned in a dream that the miraculous image was destined for Japan, and accordingly Kobo Daishi brought it home with him and enshrined it in a temple on mount Takao near Kyoto, together with attendant figures of Seitaka Doji and Kongara Doji which he carved with his own hand. Now it hap- pened that about a century and a half later, a revolution broke out. Masakado, a courtier of high birth, taking offence at the refusal to appoint him on the staff of an embassy about to start for China, rebelled again st the legitimate sovereign, Shujaku Tenno. Retiring to his native province of Shimosa, he sacrilegiously assumed the title of Mikado, built him- self a capital in which the place-names round about Kyoto were plagiarised, established a mimic Court, and having made himself master of several provinces in Eastern Japan, prepared to march upon Kyoto. The legitimate Mikado, thereupon, not content with despatching against the rebel such valiant loyal war- riors as Fujiwara-no-Tadabami, Taira-no- Sadamori, and Tawara T6da Hidesato, applied to the priests for supernatural assistance. It was found that no god was so powerful as Fudo, and no image of him so miraculous as that which Kobo Daishi had brought over. Accordingly Kwancho Daisojo, a celebrated arch- bishop of those days, who was also a scion of the Imperial family, was com- missioned to carry the image to the seat of war and exorcise the enemy. The archbishop _ embarked at Naniwa (now the city of Osaka), and soon landed on the coast of Eastern Japan, whence he pro- ceeded inland, and, having set up the miraculous image on a rock near the rebel's capital, performed before it for three weeks the G-oma ceremony, that is, prayers paid incantations recited while a fire is kept burning on the altar. The result was the total defeat and death of Masakado in the year 940, the triumph of the loyalists, and preparations on the part of the archbishop to return home, when lo and behold! the image waxed heavy as a rock, and utterly refused to move ! As usual, a dream served to ex- plain, matters. The god Fudo appeared, and declared his intention of remaining where he was, to bless and civilise East- ern Japan. Accordingly the grateful Mikado granted funds for the construc- tion of a temple on a grand scale ; and as local circumstances forbade remaining on the exact spot where the image had at first been set up, lots were drawn by thirty-three villages in the surrounding country-side, and the lot fell on Narita. Time brought further changes, and the present site— the hill known as Myo- ken-zan— was built on only in 1704. Pro- bably the great popularity of the Narita shrine dates from about that period. In any case, the then recent founding of the new capital, Yedo, in the near neighbour- hood had furnished it with a large number of potential pilgrims ; and for some reason otherwise inexplicable, actors and other public entertainers, who nourish most in great cities, have long been its most ardent votaries. Many repairs and additions have been made during the present century, the great Ni-o gate dating from 1831, and the Mido from 1856. Of the many relics preserved in the treasure- house of Narita, the most highly valued is the Amakunl no hoken, a sword said to have been forged by Amakuni, the first of all Japanese smiths, for the Emperor Mommu (A D. 683—697), who prized it equally with his crown regalia. After the suppression of Masakado' s rebellion, Temple of Fiido at Narita. 187 this sword was presented to the god Fudo by the then Emperor Shujaku, in grate- ful acknowledgment of that deity's assis- tance. One touch of it is believed to cure insane persons and those possessed of foxes. It would seem, however, to be now never shown. A festival takes place on the 28th of each month. The temple stands on the side of a hill in a fine grove of cryptomerias and other trees. It is approached from the inns by a paved avenue lined with stone lanterns. To the r. of the Tamagaki (stone wall), is a well where pilgrims perform the ceremony of washing with cold water. Close by is the Danjiki-do, where devotees retire to fast during a whole week, the only refreshment permitted to them being the use of the cold bath. Formerly the period was three weeks. Tradition says that this practice was instituted about the middle of the 16th century by the saint Doyo, who passed a hundred days in religious exercises. At last his prayers were answered by a vision of the god, who offered him the choice of a sharp or a blunt sword to swallow. The saint chose the sharp one, which the god thrust down his throat, causing the blood to flow freely. On awakening he found his intellectual powers immensely increased, and felt no traces of the wound. Nevertheless, priests' robes dyed with the blood shed on this occasion are preserved among the treasures of the temple. In a building to the r. of the Dan- jiki-do, worshippers may often be seen seated in a circle, handing round one to another a huge rosary to which a bunch of horse-hair is attached, and chanting the invoca- tion Namu Amida Butsu. Opposite is the Onna Danjiki-do, reserved for females. Both buildings have ex- votos over the entrance. To the 1. of the entrance, a shrine called the Daishi-do dedicated to Kobo Daishi contains an image of that saint, besides fine carvings of dragons. The other buildings on the 1. are residences of the priests. The Ni-o-mon is a massive structure of keyaki wood, orna- mented with carvings by Goto Kisaburo. Under the architrave are eight groups representing Chi- nese children at play, and sages probably intended for the " Seven Sages of the Bamboo Grove," whose attributes are chess, music, drawing,, and caligraphy. At the r. end are groups of young cock-fighters, and the child delivered from the tall water-jar by his sharp-witted com- panion Shiba Onko, who breaks a hole in it with a stone to let the water escape. In front r. is a sage writing an inscription, 1. a sage playing on the harp. On the 1. side are children playing, and a group the central figure of which dances to the music of flageolet and drum. At the back are groups of checker-players and of sages in- specting a picture. On either side of the steps lead- ing up from this gate to the Hondo, or Main Temple, the prettily ar- ranged rockwork crowded with ex- votos in bronze and stone has a peculiarly bizarre and pleasing effect. Ascending the steps, the first thing that strikes the eye is the huge receptacle for money-offerings. Above it is a large panel with carv- ings of phoenixes gorgeously colour- ed, and on the r. and 1. of this are coloured panels of peacocks, also in relief. This is the only colouring about the building, the rest of the exterior being of unpainted keyaki. The two sides and the back are de- corated with eight splendid panels, each 9 ft. by 4 ft., representing groups of the Go-hyaku Bakan in low relief, with an immense variety of incident and portraiture. They were carved by Matsurnoto Byozan. On the huge doors that close the sliding windows of this part of the building, are beautiful carvings of the Tiventy-four Paragons of Filial Piety, each panel (2J ft. by 2 ft.) containing two subjects, by Shima- mura Shumbyo. The dragon and angels on the ceiling, and the bold sketches of the Ju-roku Bakan behind the main altar are by Kano Kazunobu, a painter of the present century. 188 Route 17. — Hitachi, Shimosa, Kazusa, and Boshu. In the Naijin, or Holy of Holies, is the sacred black image of Fudo (often called Dainichi, with whom, it will be remembered, Fudo is identified), hardly visible in the dim light. Among the rockery be- hind are 36 small bronze figures ; in the centre at the top is Fudo in a cave, and higher up on the r. the saint En-no-Shokaku. The gro- tesque figures popularly called Dai- ra-boiclii in the gables, which bear the ends of the ridge-pole, are excel- lent expressions of the effort to sup- port a heavy burden. Round the building, under the architrave, are groups of fabulous animals. The three -storied pagoda is a beau- tiful example of this architectural form, finely decorated and painted. The black groups on the four sides represent the Sixteen Rakan, the work of Shimamura Entetsu. The bell -tower opposite is also well worth a few minutes' inspection. Close by on the r. is a handsome library (Kyodo), containing a high- ly decorated revolving octagonal box borne on the shoulders of parti- coloured demons. Note the peculiar coffered ceiling painted wiih kalei- doscopic patterns. In the ex-voto Hall (Ema-clo) to the 1. of the Library, are pictures of Fudo help- ing suppliants ; also a huge rosary, the string of which is a cable made of human hair, and various other gifts. The two large anchors thick- ly encrusted with barnacles were found by fishermen near Shirahama, off the coast of Boshu. A flight of steps leads up to another platform, where stands a large red chapel called the Kmnyo-do, or Hall of Resplendent Light. Another ex- voto shed 1. contains a large variety of interesting offerings, where charms and pictures of all kinds may be purchased. [Nearly 17 ri S. of Narita, stands the noted temple of Kasamori dedicated to the Goddess Kwan- non. The ordinary pilgrim route is from the vill. of Hamaiw on the E. shore of Tokyo Bay, whence it is a distance of about 7 ri. The itinerary from Narita is as follows : — NARITA to :— Ri. Ghb. M. Shibayama . . 4 — 9f Naruto 3 18 8J Togane 1 27 4J Oami 1 16 3J Honno 1 19 3f Mobara 1 24 4 Chonan 2 — 5 KASAMORI.. 1 — 2J Total .... 16 32 41£ The temple is built on a plat- form which rests on the point of an irregular conical rock some 50 ft. in height, the edges being supported by stout wooden scaffolding, and is reached by three flights of stairs. A country road connects Kasamori with Kominato on the Pacific coast, distant about 11 ri. For Kominato see p. 193.] Travellers wishing to proceed by water instead of road, can catch the river steamers at Senda (fair accom- modation), a distance of some 6 ri from Narita. The road from Narita lies chiefly over moorland to Katiori, also called Sawara (Inn, Ukishima-ya, besides many others crowding the entrance to the splen- did grove of trees in which the temple stands). This temple is dedicated to Futsu-nushi or Iwai-nushi, a deified warrior of the mythical period, whose symbol is a sword. The date of its foundation is unknown, but may be placed a good deal earlier than the 5th century. The present building was erected at the beginning of the 17th century, and restored in A.D. 17•..-.• ^' Ctr^r v^ < SECTION II. CENTRAL JAPAN. (Routes 25 — 33. Route 25.—TheKamizaiva-Naoetsu Railway. 20S ROUTE 25. The Karuizawa-Naoetsu Bail- way AND NlIGATA. UEDA TO MATSUMOTO AND SHIMA- SHIMA. TEMPLE OF ZENKOJI. EX- CURSIONS FROM NAGANO. LAKE NOJIRI AND ASCENT OF MYOKO- ZAN. LAND AND SEA WAYS FROM NAOETSU TO NIIGATA. THE ISLAND OF SADO. in S °3 Names of Stations. Remarks. 8 m. 13t 19| 24| 31f 37| 40| 46 52| 57| 64 69* 73f 811 87f 92 KARUIZAWA. Miyoda. Komoro. Tanaka. UEDA (Tokyo to Ka- < ruizawa (see (. p. 148). Branch roads ( to the Naka- < sendo and ( to Matsu- moto. / Road to Kusa- < tsu over the ( Shibu-toge. j Alight for \ Lake Nojiri. (Alight for as- j cent of Myo- ( ko-zan. Sakaki. Yashiro. Shinonoe. NAGANO. Toyono Mure. Kashiwabara .. Taguchi Sekiyama. Arai. Takata. NAOETSU. This line, starting from an ele- vation of 3,080 ft. at Karuizawa, descends to the sea-coast at Nao- etsu, and is on the whole the most picturesque railway route in Japan. The first five or six miles are over a fairly level plain ; But the conditions are changed when the southern slope of Asama- yama has to be rounded. Here lies a water-shed whence flow large rivers north and south, towards the Sea of Japan and the Pacific re- spectively. All the drainage of the great volcano pours down through deep gullies into the channel of one or other of these rivers. The soil, a loosely packed volcanic ash and gravel of light colour, is easily scooped away, and large chasms are left whose sides the highway descends and ascends in zigzags. Throughout most of this section, the traveller looks down from a giddy height on rice-fields far be- low. From a point near Oiwake, where the Nakasendo is left be- hind, onto Komoro opportunities are afforded of seeing to advantage the Iwamurata plain backed by the imposing range of Yatsu-ga-take. Asama-yama has a less smiling aspect on this side ; the flat top of the cone lengthens out, the pinky brown colour of the sides assumes a blackish hue, and chasms rough with indurated lava break the regularity of the slopes. Before Komoro is reached, a long volcanic ridge, dominating the valley of the river Chikuma as far as Ueda, reveals the fact that Asama is not an isolated cone, but the last and highest of a range of mountains. A former crater, which has dis- charged itself into this valley and is now extinct, displays a row of black jagged rocks in the hollow between Asama and the next peak of the range, a striking feature as seen from Komoro. Komoro (Inn, Tsuru-ya; Tea-house in public garden with good view) is a busy commercial centre. Formerly the seat of a Daimyo, it has turned its picturesque castle-grounds over- hanging the river, into a public garden. Saddlery, vehicles, and tools for the surrounding district are manufactured here. About 1 hr. walk from the station is the monastery of Shakusonji, com- monly known as Nunobiki no Kiuan- non, which lies perched on the side of one of the high bluffs that overlook the Chikuma -gawa. It is a very romantic spot, approached by a- 206 Route 25.— The Karuizawa-Naoetsu Railway. narrow gorge leading from the river bank. The monks have tun- nelled through the rocks in several places, making passages which lead to the various shrines and form a continuous corkscrew path round the perpendicular cliff. The white- painted hut close by the bell-tower on the summit commands a superb view of the Asama range and the valley of the Chikuma-gawa. The monastery belongs to the Tendai sect of Buddhists. From Komoro to Ueda the rail- way runs down the valley of the Chikuma-gawa, whose S. bank is here formed by a series of bold bluffs, in many places descending sheer into the water. The massive Shinshu- Hida range is now also in sight, its mountains, even in the height of summer, being streaked with snow. A few miles before Ueda, the valley opens out into a circular plain of which that town is the centre. Ueda (Inns, Kame-ya, Uemura- ya) possesses few attractions. White and other silks of a durable nature, but wanting in gloss and finish, are the principal products of the district. It is specially noted for a stout striped silk fabric called Ueda-jima. [The Nakasendo may be joined at Nagakubo by a jinrikisha road from Ueda, distance 11J ri. A carriage road also turns off about the middle of the town to Matsumoto, whence a jin- rikisha road leads to Shima- shima at the foot of the Hida range of mountains. Itinerary. UEDA to:— Ri. Clio. M. Matsumoto 11 25 28& Enojima 3 — 7J SHIMASHIMA.. 2—5 Total 16 25 40f The time taken by coach to Matsumoto is from 8 to 10 hrs. The vehicle starts early in the morning. At the top of the hill just before descending into the town, one of the finest mountain views in Japan is obtained. The whole Hida range spreads out before the spectator, Yari-ga-take being specially conspicuous with its spear-shaped peak that resem- bles the Matterhorn. In the foreground are well - wooded hills, and in the distance the river winds like a silver thread. Matsumoto {Inns, *Shinano- ya, Kome-ya) is one of the most important towns in Shinshu, being the centre of commerce between the S. part of this province and the province of Echigo. Some of the best silk in Japan is produced here. The other principal manufactures are a kind of cotton cloth called shibori, candied fruit, and baskets and boxes of bamboo work. Matsumoto became a castle-town early in the 16th century, and was the seat of a Daimyo called Matsudaira Tamba-no-Kami. The greater part of the castle is still pre- served. It is only 5 min. from the inns, and should be visited, if only for the sake of the view to be obtained from the top storey. The chief sights of Matsumoto are the Shinto temple of Hachiman and the Buddhist temple of Shogyoji. Thirty chb from Matsumoto, at the villi, of Asama (Inns, *Ume-no-yu, Inokuchi ), are some excellent hot baths much frequented by the people of the whole province. A carriage road connects Matsumoto with Seba on the Nakasendo, 4 ri 17 cho (12 m.). Sliimasllima is divided by the Azusa-gawa into two parts, of which the western is Shima- shima proper, and the eastern Hashiba (Inn, *Shimizu-ya). The view from the inn is highly picturesque. This is the best Veda. Nagano and Temple of Zenkoji. 207 place from which to ascend Yari-ga-take (see Koute 30, Section 4.] The old castle of Ueda, of which one watch-tower still remains in- tact, stands on the river bank be- yond the town, and forms a striking feature in the landscape as the train leaves the station. The exit from the amphitheatre of hills en- closing Ueda is narrow and hidden from view. Just before the line turns into it, a curious bluff with a cave in its face is noticeable on the other side of the river. Before reaching Yashiro, there is on the other side of the river a hill with the curious name of Oba-sute- yama, that is, " the Hill where the Aunt was Abandoned." It is explained by a legend which tells us that the abandoned one was Oyama-bime, aunt to Ko-no-hana-saku-ya-Hime, the lovely goddess of Fuji, who married Ni- nigi-no-Mikoto, the first ancestor of the Imperial family of Japan. This Oyama- bime was so ugly, ill-tempered, envious, and malicious that none of the gods would take her in marriage. Her nephew and niece, in despair that her evil disposi- tion should thus stand in the way of her happiness, entreated her to reform, but in vain. At last the younger goddess suggested that a tour through the beauti- ful scenery of Shinano, when she might contemplate the moon from some lofty mountain-top, would be likely to have a softening effect. So they set out together, and after surmounting innumerable peaks, at length reached this place. Ko- no-hana-Hime mounted a stone, and pointing with her finger, said to her aunt, " Yonder is a rock. Climb up it and look calmly round, and your heart will be purified." The aunt, tired with her long journey, melted under the gentle influ- ences of the harvest moon. Turning to her niece, she said, " I will dwell forever on this hill- top, and join with the God of Suwa in watching over the land." And with these words, she vanished in the moonbeams. — This legend, though told of Shinto divinities, is probably of Buddhist origin. At Yashiro a road branches off to the important town of Matsushiro, and down the r. bank of the Chiku- ma-gawa to Niigata. Before reach- ing Nagano, both the Chikuma- gawa and the Saigawa are crossed. The head-waters of the latter are near Lake Suwa. It flows past Matsumoto, joining the Chikuma- gawa a short distance to the S.E. of Nagano, and forming with this large stream the great Shinano- gawa which enters the sea at Nii- gata. One of the spans in the Saigawa viaduct is 200 ft. long. Nagano or Zenkoji (Inns, *Seiyo- ken, Fuji-ya, both semi-foreign; Ogi-ya) is the capital of the pre- fecture of Nagano, which comprises the whole province of Shinshu. It is beautifully situated at the foot of lofty mountains, which form an imposing background and almost surround it. A considerable trade is done in woven goods and agri- cultural implements. Numerous fine buildings in foreign style and crowds of pilgrims thronging the streets, give the town an air of exceptional prosperity. The Japa- nese Club called Tosan-kwan, which has a room of 144 mats, commands a fine prospect. The Buddhist Tem- ple of Zenkoji is one of the most celebrated in the whole Empire. It is dedicated to Amida and his two followers, Kwannon and Daiseishi, a group of whose images is here enshrined. This sacred group is said to have been made by Shaka Muni himself out of gold found on Mount Shumi, the centre of the Universe. After various vicissitudes in China and Korea, it was brought to Japan in A.D. 552, as a present from the King of Korea to the Mikado on the first intro- duction of Buddhism into Japan. All the effort of the Japanese enemies of Bud- dhism to make away with the image were in vain. Thrown into rivers, hacked at, burnt, it survived all and finally found a resting-place at Zenkoji in A.D. 602. The building 1. of the entrance is the residence of an abbess of high rank and a sisterhood of nuns. Rows of shops for the sale of rosaries and pictures of the sacred triad line the court. Behind the shops are the houses of the priests, each in its own neatly arranged garden. At the end of this court is the chief gateway, with images of Monju and the Shi Tenno, which are exhibited only on New Year's 208 Route 25. — The Karuizawa-Naoetsu Railway. day. The Main Temple, erected in 1701, is a two-storied buildiDg 198 ft. in depth by 108 ft. in width, with a huge three-gabled roof, so that the ridge is T-shaped. This form is called shumoku-zukuri, from its resemblance to the shumoku, a wooden hammer with which the Buddhists strike the small bell used by them in their religious services. The roof is supported by 136 pillars, and there are said to be 69,384 rafters, the same number as that of the written characters contained in the Chinese version of the Buddhist scriptures. At the entrance two beautiful new marble lamps, about 6 ft. high, deserve inspection. The sacred golden group, standing in a chapel on the W. side, is kept in a shrine dating from A.D. 1369, shrouded by a gorgeous brocade curtain. For a small fee, the cur- tain is raised so as to show the outer- most of the seven boxes in which the image is enclosed. A space of 88 mats (about 1,600 sq. ft.) is set apart for the worshippers. On the ES. side of the main hall is an en- trance to a dark gallery which runs round below the floor of the chancel (naijin), issuing again by the same door. To complete this circuit (kaidan-mawari) thrice is con- sidered highly meritorious. More than 200 bronze and stone lanterns crowd the space in front of the main hall. The principal festivals are the Dai Nembutsiiy or Great Invocation of Buddha, held on the 31st July, those held at the vernal and au- tumnal equinoxes, and one on the 14th March, in commemoration of the terrible earthquake which shook this region in 1847. On the r. of the temple enclosure is the Public Garden, which com- mands a good view of the valley. Excursions from Nagano. 1. Burando Yakuslii, 1 ri N.E. of the town, a shrine dedicated to the Buddhist god of medicine, is perched high above the path in a large tree growing out of the rock. Close by are some petroleum springs. 2. TogakusM-san and Ken-iio- liiine. Five ri from Nagano is the temple of Togakushi-san, whither the god Tajikara-o-no-Mikoto is said to have hurled the rocky door of the cavern in which the Sun-Goddess had hidden herself from her sub- jects in heaven and earth. The road, which is passable for jinriki- shas drawn by two men, leaves the town on the 1. side of the temple, and ascends a narrow ravine to the hamlet of Arayasu, whence, winding over low hills, it issues on to a moor which encircles the base of Izuna- san. A torii is reached at the highest point of the moor. The path then descends for over a mile to a point where it divides, the r. branch proceeding direct to the Chu-in, the 1. reaching the Hoko-in after 12 cho more. The latter temple, situated at the top of a long flight of steps lined with old cryptomerias, is a large building decorated with, wood-carvings of considerable merit. From this point to the Chu-in is a walk of 12 cho through the wood. Those who intend to climb Ken-no- mine, the highest point of the moun- tain behind Togakushi, will do best to pass the night here. The road to the Oku-no-in (30 cho) is pretty level the whole way, except during the last few hundred yards. The priests' house commands a fine view, including the summits of Fuji and. Asama. Half-way between the bridge and the red gate-way on the road to the Oku-no-in, a path branches off r. under a wooden torii to Ken-no-mine. A walk of about 3 ri leads to the summit, below which is a hut where pilgrims pass the night, in order to witness sunrise from the peak, whence Amida is supposed to be visible riding on a cloud of many colours. 3. Izuna-saH, or Iizuna-san, as the name is also pronounced, may be ascended either from Arayasu or from the Chu-in ; but the latter is preferable, as the climb from Ara- Lake Nojiri. Akakura. 209 yasu is steep. From the Chu-in, the summit is easily gained in 1J hr. walking up a long spur. The view is very extensive in every direction. The traveller may either return to Arayasu, or strike away to the 1. by a_ path leading over by the moor to Ofuruma on a cross country road called the Hok- koku Kaido, and close to Kashiwa- bara station, — a 3 hrs. walk. The railway from Nagano con- tinues along the plain as far as Toyono. Here it enters a narrow valley, which it follows up until Xashiwabara is reached at a height of 2,200 ft. At Toyono a road leads over the Shibu-toge to Kusatsu (see p. 158.) A fine view is obtained of Izuna-san on the 1. as Kashiwiibara is approached. This section of the line traverses a re- gion where the snowfall is peculiar- ly heavy, drifts occasionally ac- cumulating to a depth of over 10 ft. and stopping all traffic for weeks at a time. [The traveller with time to spare should alight here to visit the beautiful little lake called No- jiri-ko, 2-J rn. distant. As the accommodation at the vill. of Nojiri is very poor, it will be well to arrange one's plans so as to catch a train at Tagitchi, the next station, or to proceed to the hamlet of Akakura, situated on the side of Myoko- zan and noted for its hot spriugs. Akakura is also the point from which the ascent of Myoko-zan is most easily made. The walk from Kashiwabara is through a pleasant oak wood, whence the road descends slight- ly to ^ Nojiri (Inn, Katsura-ya), pic- turesquely situated on the shores of the lake, which is sur- rouuded by low hills covered with thickets. On a densely wooded islet, is a temple called Uga-no-Jinja. In front of the temple stand two magnificent cedars, one of which measures 27 ft. in circumference. The view of the giant masses of Izuna, Kurohime, and Myoko- zan, as seen from the island, is exceptionally fine. Good bathing may be had in the lake, and the roads in the neighbourhood are all that could be desired. The lake sometimes freezes over at the end of January, when the ice becomes passable for men and horses. Its waters find an out- let into the Sekigawa, which, flowing from sources on Toga- kushi-san and Yakeyama, falls into the sea at Naoetsu. From Nojiri to Akakura is a walk of 2 hrs. But jinrikishas may be taken to the vill. of Tagiri on the main road, whence, turning sharp 1. over the lower grassy slopes of Myo- ko-zan, it leads after 23 cho to the baths. Leaving Nojiri, the road descends to the small town of Sekigawa, named after the river and situated at the junction of two picturesque wooded glens, where the torrent rushes under the branches of trees overhanging it on either side. This river — the Sekigawa — here forms the boundary be- tween the provinces of Echigo and Shinshu. A short distance beyond the town of the same name a road brandies off r. to Taguchi station, the nearest point on the line of railway for Akakura. Akakura, is a favourite resort of the inhabitants of Takata and other places on the plain during a part of August and September. It possesses an ex- cellent Inn, the Kogaku-ro, boasting a gigantic bath, which is supplied with hot water brought in pipes from sources 2 ri further up the mountain. This inn is closed during the 210 Route 25. — The Karuizawa-Naoetsu Railway. winter months. The other inns are of an inferior description. From the hamlet nothing obstructs the glorious prospect of the rich plain extending down to Naoetsu on the Sea of Japan, and of the island of Sado on the dim horizou. About 3 ri off, between Kurohime and Myoko-zan, is a large waterfall called Nae no taki. As already indicated, Akakura is the most convenient point from which to make the ascent of Myoko-zan (8,180 ft.). This mountain is not free from snow until July. Instead of ascend- ing by the pilgrim's path, which is extremely steep and overgrown with tall bamboo grass, the path to the solfatara under Akakura-yama should be taken. This also lies through the same sort of cane-brake, but has the advantage of rising very gently and of being shorter than the other. From the solfatara, where two very hot springs gush forth, a gully has to be / ascended, and the main path is entered at a point where it is no longer difficult or steep. Iron chains have been fixed in order to en- able the mountaineer to pass along the narrow ledges — no more than 2 inches wide — which at one point serve as a path. The track, which ascends the crumbling rock of the sum- mit by natural steps, is perfectly safe, though somewhat steep. Myoko-zan forms part of an ex- tinct volcano. The mountains immediately surroundiug it are the long semi-circnlar ridge called Myoko-zan-no-Urayama, or the " Hind-part of Myoko- zan," on the S.E., and Kana- yama on the N. Other solfa- taras, besides that mentioned, occur on the mountain. Water is found at the very sum- mit, on which stands a small wooden shrine dedicated to Amida. The view to the S.E. in- cludes Asama and Fuji. Direct- ly S. rises Kurohime with its two peaks, between which is seen the top of Izuna-san. Ken-no- mine bears about S.S.W., while the round -topped mountain bearing W.N.W. is Yakeyama, an extinct volcano. To the N.E. the view extends over the plain of Echigo to the Sea of Ja- pan and the Island of Sado. Not less than 7 Iil-s. should be allow- ed for the ascent and descent. The mountain is much frequent- ed by pilgrims, especially on the 23rd night of the 6th moon, old calendar, when they ascend in great numbers by torchlight, but do not pass through Aka- kura. — From Akakura a path descends via Futamata, (26 chb) to Sekiyama, 1 \ ri. The path to Taguchi station is shorter, but the difference has to be made up by rail.] There is a falling gradient of about 600 ft. in the 4J m. traversed between Taguchi and Sekiyama (Inn, Ogi-ya). The as- cent of Myoko-zan may also be made from here, but it involves a longer walk over the moor than from Akakura. The gradient is still heavy until Arai is reached, where the country becomes flatter. Arai (good accommodation) is a flourishing town noted for tobac- co, pueraria starch (kuzu), and pe- troleum, the springs being in the immediate neighbourhood. Here is first seen the custom peculiar to most of the towns in Echigo, of covered ways along the house-fronts, used when the snow lies deep in the streets. Takata (Inn, Koyo-kwan) is a large place, formerly the castle- town of a Daimyo named Sakaki- bara, one of the four families who enjoyed the privilege of providing a regent during the minority of a Shogun. The town is traversed by a long street, which bends repeated- Naoetsu to Niiyata. 211 ly at right angles. Cotton-weaving is extensively carried on. The Hok- koku Kaido branches off 1. near here to the provinces of Kaga, Echizen, etc. (see Route 33). Naoetsu (Inns, Matsuba-kwan, Furukawa-ya), situated at the mouth of the Sekigawa, is a port of call for steamers to Niigata, Eushiki, and other places on the West Coast. It is also at present the terminus of the railway which, however, the authorities intend to carry on to Niigata, about 74 m. distant. This line, opening up one of the richest provinces of the Empire, is no less important for strategical reasons. It will practi- cally bring Niigata within one day of the capital. Tunnels are to be ■-. < . \ ■ • «n .„* j :. b -v ? ; / i ', 1 " . ;; ■.'■¥. $f"g . . Ml V l " ; s> - " ^ ■■■;';■ ,^;J' %h ''^\'l;;, tv ,.. i& .... - , f ""'"I :,:,,^ ^ V|, ^flp^SlS 1 est ••- r 5 o j j( 'Vi.HJ •■■£•'■ |||' j x ? 3 : £ "/! - ' ' ,<'l§§ |l : ' ~ 'i''^': V^ : ; ;. j V , J i" \ 1 1 i '.' '.^. '"' : h :■■■':■' y I >:_ '"".'".."'". ' / s < '•■'.■•? ^ %l '■'! 1 ■" '^:., - ' - lz ? /-' iv'| , ;■' !%%• ; >- ■■■•! i 1 H ■■ $ ">t" il ' ■, 1 i & -■>S ■ \ il . ..^. if; l#Vd •* < ,-' !\ '. .-•' \ r'i ^ . ■ >: & * N r'< i - ; ! e J r ':' * 1 J." ''^ 1 ■': 1 \ ; - = g -- V i ^ * ^.^ i J } ' j> V 1 j ! > , . s ^'5 . ■-■•' fe. | C < '/ ~ c 1 1 < >< : < •- * >. *'■ ^ i !.• ■ ■ ■ . .__ ' ! Route 26.— Ways to and from Kofu, 213 EOUTE 26. Ways to and feom Kofu. 1. kofu and neighbouehood. 2. tokyo to kofu by the koshu kaido [saeuhashi to yoshida] . 3. valley of the tamagawa. 4. feom the tokaido to kofu via minobu. 5. eapids of the fujikawa. 6. kofu to shi- mo-no-suwa. 7. kofu to fuji ovee the misaka-toge. 8. ka- euizawa to kofu ovee the tsuyutaee pass. ascent of aka- DAKE. E.of u is a pleasant resting-place after arduous travel, — its central situation in the beautiful province of Koshu, and its proximity to places of such peculiar interest as Mitake, Fuji, Minobu, the Eapids of the Fujikawa, etc., causing it to be included in so many different tours as to render a description of the several ways to and from it advisable. 1. — Kofu and Neighbouehood : Mitake and Kimpu-zan. Iiofn (Bins, Choyo-tei with for- eign restt. in the public garden ; Yonekura in Yanagi-machi ; Sado- ya), the capital of the prefecture of Yamanashi, is noted for the pro- gressive spirit of its people. For its size, it has more buildings in Euro- pean style than any other provin- cial town in Japan. Conspicuous amoDgst these are the Prefecture, the Normal School, the Banks, the Court Houses, the Town Hall, the Industrial School, and the silk- filatures. The castle grounds were many years ago turned into an ex- perimental garden, where excellent fruit and vegetables are grown. The platform where the keep formerly stood, affords a fine view of the town and surrounding country. Kof a is noted for its kaiki, a thin silken fabric used for the linings of dresses and for bed -quilts; also for a sweetmeat called tsuki no shizuku, that is "moon-drops," consistiug of grapes coated with sugar. The province of Koshu pro- duces excellent grapes, and at- tempts have been made, of late years, to manufacture wine and brandy from them. The grapes are in their prime about the end of September or beginning of October. Crystals are found in the neigh- bourhood, and cormorant fishing on a small scale may be witnessed. A great festival, called Mi-yuki no Matsuri, is held in Kofu on the 1st April. The chief historical interest of Kofu centres in its mediseval hero, Takeda Shingen, who was one of the fiercest feudal chieftains of the lawless times that preceded the establishment of the Tokugawa dynasty of Shoguns. Born in 1521 as the eldest son of his father, lord of Koshu, it was his fate to be unjustly passed over by that father in favour of his second brother; and he was obliged to feign stupidity as a boy, in order to live in safety. When, however, both youths reached man's estate, Takeda Shingen' s superiority in skill and courage gained all the warriors of the clan over to his side, and he succeeded his father without demur. His whole time was spent in waging war against the barons of the neighbouring provinces of central and eastern Japan, especially against Uesugi Kenshin, lord of Echigo. Their most famous battle was that of Kawa- naka-jima. In middle life he became converted to the doctrines of the Tendai sect of Buddhists, built a temple to the god Bishamon, did public penance, ab- j ured the eating of fish and all intercourse with women, and went so far as to have himself decorated with the title of arch- bishop, — for what ecclesiastical authori- ties were going to refuse anything to a zealot who disposed of so man y soldiers ? He did not, however, renounce his grand passion, war, but kept on fighting till the end, his latter years being much disturbed by the consciousness of the growing power of leyasu, and being divided be- tween quarrels and reconciliations with that great captain. When mortally wounded in 1573, he left orders with his successor to hold no funeral service in his honour, but to keep his death a pro- found secret for three years, and then to sink his body privately in Lake Suwa, enclosed in a stone coffin. This was in order to prevent his numerous foes from taking heart at the news of his decease. His last will and testament was only par- tially obeyed ; for though his death was 214 Route 26.— Ways to and from Kofu. kept secret as long as possible, the body was not sunk in the lake, but buried at the temple of Eirinji at Matsuzato, a few miles from Kofu. The place still exists, the temple garden being a tasteful speci- men of rock work on a large scale. Brave but superstitious, Takeda Shingen was also an adept at governing men. His people liked and respected him, as was shown by the fact that none ever rebelled against him, even in that turbulent age when every man's hand was against every man. From Kofu a very pretty excur- sion may be made to the temples of M stake, distant about 5 ri. Jinrikishas can be taken as far as a place called Kizawa, some 2 ri from Kofu, whence onwards it is necessary to walk. The whole distance can be accomplished in 3J hrs. The road winds up a fine rocky valley, crossing and recross- ing the Kamezawa-gawa several times. Beyond the hamlet of Kiyokawa, the river cuts its way through the rocks so as to form a charming double cascade called So-gatva-fuchi. A short way on, the traveller leaves this, the prettiest part of the road, and ascending to the r., comes in sight of the rocky valley in which lie the temples and village of Mi take. Excepting the beautiful site, a grove of magni- ficent trees, and the fine stone-work facing the slopes of the terraces, little now remains of the former grandeur of the place, which has fallen into the destructive hands of modern Shinto iconoclasts. The village of Mitake (Inn, Tama- ya), 2,800 ft. above the sea, lies just below the temple grounds, on the bank of a stream in the midst of extremely picturesque scenery, the most conspicuous rocky peaks being Gaki-san — a peculiar sugar-loaf cone — and Ten- gu-iwa on the opposite side of the valley. Specimens of rock-crystal are sold in the village. They are procured chiefly from mines in the neighbourhood of Kurobira on the way to Kimpu-zan. Kimpu-zan, a granite mountain 8,300 ft. high, can be easily ascended in one day from Mitake by making an early start. The way lies* through the vill. of Kurobira. Near a Shinto shrine 2J hrs. beyond Kurobira, there is a good-sized hut for the accommodation of pilgrims ; and here the real ascent begins, the distance hence to the summit being about 2,000 ft. The way lies over a heap of large boulders. At two places, ladders are fixed to assist the climber over' difficult gaps, and at two others chains give additional secu- rity ; but even without the help of these, there would be no danger. The top is crowned by a huge inaccessible mass of granite, rising to a height of some 50 ft., and forming a landmark by which the mountain can be recognised at a great distance. The view includes Asama-yama on the N., Yatsu-ga- take almost due W., Fuji to the S., and the lofty mountain range on the Western boundary of the province of Koshu. 2. — From Tokyo to Kofu by the Koshu Kaido. [From Saru- HASHI TO YOSHIDA.] The first stage of this journey, viz. as far as Hachioji, is by train from either Shimbashi or Shinjiku station, 1J hr. from the latter (see p. 119). The itinerary of the rest of the route is as follows : — HACHIOJI to:— Ri. Clio. M, Komagino 2 19 6£ Yose 2 30 7 Yoshino 33 2J Uenohara 1 27 4| Notajiri 1 19 3f Saruhashi 3 6 7f Ozuki 1 2 2J Kuronota 2 29 6| Katsunuma 3 15 8J KOFU 4 2 10 Total 24 2 58£ The whole ground may be covered in 2 days, by taking jinrikishas from Hachioji to Kofu, and sleeping the The Koshu Kaidd. 215 first night at Saruhashi. Carriages of the usual springless kind run the whole way. The scenery is pretty all along the route after passing Ko- magino, but the road is often heavy except close to the larger villages. From Hachioji (Inn, Kado-ya), the road lies along the flat to Komagino, beyond which vill. a gradual rise leads up the Kobotoke-toge. The new highway, avoiding as it does the summit of the pass (1,850 ft.), misses the extensive view over the plain of Tokyo and the sea, for which this portion of the journey was formerly noted ; but on the way down on the other side, there is a fine prospect of the Koshu mountains. Soon the fertile valley of the Banyu-gawa, also called Ka- tsura-gawa, comes in sight. This river flows at the bottom of a deep ravine and remains a constant com- panion as far as Ozuki. Some poor hamlets are passed before reaching YoslliiiO (Inn by Ofusa Seijuro). In the neighbourhood of Ueiiohara (Inn, Uehara), a great deal of refuse silk is spun and woven into the fabric called tsumugi, to be taken to market at Hachi- oji. The town, lying on a plateau, has no wells. All the water has to be brought from a distance in wooden pipes, and is consequently foul. From Uenohara, the road plunges down to the bed of the Tsurukawa, a tributary of the Banyu, and then again ascends and descends before arriving at Notajiri. Delightful glimpses of Fuji are obtained on the way. The scenery becomes strikingly pretty before reaching Saruhashi (Inns, Daikoku-ya, Kubota), that is, the "Monkey's Bridge," also called Enkyo, the latter name being in- deed bnt the Chinese pronunciation of the same ideographs which in pure Japa- ese read Saruhashi. The place derives its name from the bridge having formerly been a mere crazy plank, such as monkeys alone might be supposed likely to venture across. Perpendicular cliffs frown down upon the dark emerald stream, which is narrow and deep at this point. The present bridge is more or less of the cantilever sort, having the ends of the horizontal beams planted deep in the soil that covers the rock. Saruhashi, though but an unpretending place, has a certain importance as a market-town for the surrounding villages. Specimens of the tsumugi above-mentioned may be purchased here at cheap rates. The scenery continues to be lovely after passing Saruhashi. There is a celebrated view at a point where the Katsura-gawa is joined by its affluent, the Watagawa, between Saruhashi and Komahashi. Ozuki is badly situated, as a hill rising behind it shuts out the sun- light and the view of Fuji ; more- over the accommodation is poor. [A road to Yoshida, from which place Fuji may be ascended (see p. 144), branches off here to the 1., following up the valley of the Katsura-gawa, and passing through the cleanly and thriv- ing town of Y'amnra (Inn, Susuki-tei). At Toka-ichiba there is a pretty cascade, which is seen to best advantage from the verandah of the tea- house _close by. The distance from Ozuki to Kami- Yoshida (Inn, Kogiku) is just under 6 ri. The whole road is in a manner dominated by Fuji, beginning near Ozuki, where the great volcano appears en vignette, and then grows and grows till it fills up the entire foreground. It is also curious to observe the gradual conver- sion of the lava into arable soil, partly by weathering, part- ly by human toil.] At Ozuki the road abandons the Katsura-gawa, and proceeds up the valley of the Hanasaki-gawa through villages devoted to the | breeding of silkworms. The diver- 216 Route 26. — Ways to and from Kofu. sified forms of the mountains lend an unusual charm to the scene. After passing Kuronota (Inn, Miyoshi-ya), we ascend the Sasago-toge, 3,500 ft. above the sea, or 1,300 ft. above Kuronota. Katsumima is one of the cen- tres of the grape-growing industry. The fertile plain of Koshu now stretches out before us, surrounded on every side by a wall of high moun- tains. The chief summits to the W. are Koma-ga-take, Ho-6-zan, Jizo-dake, Kwannon, and Yakushi, backed by the long chain collec- tively known under the name of Shirane-san. Fuji also is visible now and then over the tops of a range bounding the plain on the S. From the vill. of Todoroki to Shimo Kuribara, the road is lined with peach-trees, double cherry-trees and kaido (Pyrus spectabilis), which are in full blossom about the middle of April. The road runs along the plain from this point into Kofu. 3. — Tokyo to Kofu by the Valley OF THE TAMAGAWA (OmE KAIDO). Itinerary. TOKYO ( Shinjiku Station ) to Tachikawa by train in 1 hr., thence by road to : — Bi. Cho. M. Hamura 3 18 8£ OME 1 18 3f Sawai 2 18 6J Kotaba 1 18 3| Hikawa 2 — 5 Kochi-no-yu(Yuba) 3 — 7J Kamozawa 2 — 5 Tabayama 2 18 6§ Ochiai 3 18 8£ Yanagaziwa-toge . . 1 — 2 J Kamikane 1 18 3f Ofuji — 18 l| Kusakabe 1 18 3§ Hirashina 1 — 2-J Sa_togaki 2 — 5 KOFU 1 — 2J Total 30 18 76£ This exceptionally pretty route, passing through some of the finest scenery in Eastern Japan, is much to be recommended at all seasons, and particularly in spring-time when the trees are in flower. Kofu can be easily reached by it in 3J days. Jinrikishas are practicable from Tachikawa to Ome ; but the road across the plain is mostly rough, and it is better to walk. Jinrikishas can, indeed, be taken on to Sawai, where the first night should be spent ; the rest of the journey till within 3 ri of Kofu must be performed on foot. Fair accommodation is also to be had at K6chi-no-yu, Tabayama, and Ofuji, but the food is everywhere very poor. Leaving Tachikawa and passing through several hamlets, we reach in 1 hr. the squalid-looking town of Raijima, a short distance beyond the Treaty Limit boundary. From the point where the road joins the Tamagawa aqueduct to the vill. of Hamura, the surface is harder and travelling somewhat easier. At Hamura {Inn, Tamaru-ya), we enjoy a charming glimpse of the Tamagawa, and can inspect the massive stone-work of the dam constructed there to carry off water for the supply of Tokyo. The road hence to Ome follows the 1. bank of the river, a heavy portion of the route in wet weather. At Ome, the Ome Kaido, or main road to Tokyo, is joined. It is now little us^d for through traffic. Ome (Inn by Sakanoe Binzo) consists of a single long street, lined with old gnarled fruit-trees, maples, crape myrtle, and pines, which give it a picturesque and pleasant appearance. Soon after entering the town, at the top of a flight of steps, stands a Shinto temple decorated with good carvings, chiefly of birds and fabu- lous animals. On leaving Ome, the road at once enters the Valley of the Tamagawa, ascending along its 1. bank. The valley is here rather Valley of the Tamagaiva. 2*7 wide and well-cultivated. Shortly after passing 1. the path which leads over a rnannen-bashi to the sacred mountain of Mitake, the traveller may spend a few moments in watching the rafts shoot past the rocks in the river. Passing through the peach orchards of Mita- mura, the bridge at the entrance of Sawai is crossed, and here a path branches off r., leading by way of Hanno to Chlchibu and the pro- vince of Shinshu. At Sawai (Inn, Yamaguchi-ya), the beautiful part of the route begins. Just before reaching Kotaba, the valley contracts and winds, and the hills on either side increase in height, while in front rises the triple summit of Mitake. [Mitake, 2,900 ft. above the sea, not to be confounded with the place of the same name de- scribed on p. 214, is a pleasant- ly cool spot during the summer months. It is distant 3J hrs. from Ome on foot ; but jinriki- shas may be taken part of the way. There are no inns at the summit, where the temple stands. Rooms, however, can be ; hired at some of the houses inhabited by the priests.] Kotaba (Inn, Naga-ya,) is the highest point from which rafts descend the river. Further up, single logs are thrown into the water and left to float down with the current. The scenery con- tinues charming ; the path con- stantly ascends and descends, sometimes rising to a great eleva- tion above the stream. Corn, mil- let, and potatoes constitute the chief crops grown in the valley. Indigo and tobacco are also raised in small quantities. Descending through the remains of a cryp- tomeria grove, we cross the Nip- para-gawa, an affluent of the Tama- gawa, and after a short climb reach the village of Hikawa (Inn, Miyamoto-ya). At this place, and elsewhere in the valley, may be observed bevelled water-wheels, used where the bank is too high for the ordinary under- shot wheel. The floats are small and placed wide apart, and the axle is inclined at an angle in order to admit of the wheel dipping into the stream. The next stage beyond Hikawa is extremely picturesque and but sparsely populated. Below the path, which winds up and down the flank of the mountain, the stream dashes along a rocky chan- nel, sometimes forming deep, clean pools ; while above, on either hand, rise steep lofty hills, mostly covered with timber, but wherever the ex- posure is favourable, cultivated up to the highest possible point. Especially noticeable is the part where the road makes a deep bend to the r. just before coming to the baths of KoeJii^RO-yiJ (Inn, *Tsuru-ya, which has pleasant rooms over- hanging the river ; the inn by Hara- shima Koichir5 has a private bath). This place, 1,350 ft. above the sea, possesses tepid sulphur springs, which are much resorted to by the people of the neighbouring villages. Half a mile further we cross a tribu- tary stream called the Ogawa to the village of Kochi, and winding round to the r., pass in succession through Mugiyama and Kawano to the ham- let of Kamozawa at the boundary between the provinces of Musashi and Koshu. Kamozawa (no inns) stands in a striking situation on the hillside just above the road. From a point a short distance beyond, the scenery is very fine, and the road, considering the difficulties that had to be overcome, and the impossibility of preventing the effects of weathering on the easily disintegrated rocks over which it passes in many places, is a very creditable piece of engineering. It winds up the side of a magnifi- cent wooded gorge for 4 or 5 m., while the river flows away below 218 Route 26. — Ways to and from Kofu. under the shade of deciduous trees. Half-way, perched on the r. bank of the stream far beneath the road, lies the quaint-looking hamlet of Houose. At last, turniDg a corner, we come in view of the spacious upland valley in which, surrounded by corn-fields, lie Tabaya ma (Inn, Mori-ya ; height 2,000 ft. above the sea) and one or two other hamlets. Beyond this the scenery becomes even more remarkable, and the views of deep ravines and rocky wooded precipices are among the finest to be seen in Japan. The most striking bits occur a short way above Tabayama, where grey fir-clad cliffs tower up to a height of over 2,000 ft. from the water's edge ; but the grandest prospect of all is about 1-J m. below Ochiai, where the road winds round the face of a lofty precipice com- manding a view up a densely wooded gorge almost to its very source. From this point to Ochiai, which is a mere cluster of huts with but rough accommoda- tion, and for 1 ri further to the top of the Y anagizaiua-toge (4,600 ft.), is a walk of about 2 hrs. over the only bad portion of this mountain route, the mud being thick and heavy even in the finest weather. The top of the pass affords a fine view of Fuji, rising above the intervening range of mountains. Descending on the Kofu side, the road follows the bank of the Ornogawa, which it crosses and recrosses, to the vill. of Kainikaiie (poor accommoda- tion), when for the first time opens out in full view the great range dividing the provinces of Koshu and Shinshu. The chief peaks from r. tol. are Koma-ga-take, Hd-6-zan, and Jizo-dake, with the triple peaks of Shirane-san behind, all rising beyond a nearer and lesser chain. The small wooded hill in front is Enzan, noted for a cold sulphur spring (good inn). From Ofliji (Inn, Fuji-ya) the main road descends straight into the plain of Kofu, crossing the Ornogawa and passing through Kusakabe with its avenue of pines and flowering trees. It crosses the Fuefuki-gawa a short distance fur- ther on at Sashide, where coaches may be engaged to Kofu. 4. — SUZUKAWA ON THE T6KAIDO Railway to Kofu via Minobu. Itinerary. SUZUKAWA to :— Ei. Clio. M. Omiya (tram) 3 — 7 £ Manzawa 3 26 9 | Nambu 3 — 7§ MINOBU 3 8 l'i Hakii 30 2 Yoka-ichiba 1 33 4f Kiri-ishi 20 l| Kajikazawa .... 1 29 4} KOFU 4 18 11 Total 22 20 55 Time, 2J to 3 days. It is possible to take jinrikishas the whole way ; but at least two men are needed, and there are numerous hills to walk up. Very poor accommodation except at O- rniya, Minobu, and Kajikazawa. Some way beyond Oaniya (Inn, Wata-ya) we reach the celebrated Tsuri-bashi, or " Hanging Bridge " over the Fujikawa, at a picturesque spot near Utsubusa where the river divides into two branches. This bridge, which is suspended to pre- cipitous rocks on either side by stout ropes of bamboos split and twisted together, consists of small bundles of split bamboos some 6 or 7 ft. long, lashed close together and supporting a single row of planks laid along the middle as a pathway. The bridge, which is divided into two unequal spans by timber-supports resting on a lower rock close to the right bank, is altogether about 100 ft. long ; its height in the centre is about 26 ft., and at the bank 35 ft., and the whole structure shakes and sways Minobu. 21» considerably, though there is no real danger. From Utsubusa on- wards, the road leads up the pleasant valley of the Fujikawa with occasional views of Fuji, Yatsu-ga-take, and other high mountains. Minobu (Inns, Tanaka-ya, Masu- ya) consists of a single hilly street lined with shops for the sale of rosaries. It was also at one time noted for the manufacture of hempen rain-coats (mino), a fact to which the origin of the name has been ascribed. The village is prettily situated in a valley sur- rounded by well-wooded mountains, among the most prominent being Oku-no-in which rises immediate- ly behind the temples, and Shichi- men-zan at the head of the valley. The vill. owes its existence to the great Monastery of Kuenji, founded in the 13th century by the celebrat- ed Buddhist saint Nichiren, a portion of whose body is here pre- served. This monastery is the head- quarters of the Nichiren sect, and the new temples now in process of erection to replace the former buildings destroyed by fire in 1875 are fine specimens of Buddhistic architecture. On entering the grounds of the Monastery, the traveller crosses a courtyard, whence either of two flights of steps — the Otoko-zaka and the Onna-zaka — may be ascended to the actual temples. On reaching the top of the steps, and passing r. the belfry, the traveller will find himself in front of the Founder's Temple (Kaisan-do), from which gal- leries lead to the Temple of the True Bones (Go Shinkotsu-do), to the Temple of the Posthumous Tablet (IJiai-do), to the Pilgrims' Dormi- tory (Kyaku-dcn), to the Reception Rooms (Taimen-zashiki), and finally to the residence of the archbishop and the business offices of the sect (Jimusho). The interior dimensions of the main hall of the Founder's Temple are : length 75 ft., depth 120 ft., height 26 ft. from floor to ceiling, while the altar is 24 ft. long by 15 ft. ^n depth. The porch has carvings of dragons, storks, birds playing over the waves of the sea, and tortoises swimming through it. The ventilating panels over the grated doors contain angels and phoenixes brightly painted. The framework of the building and the pillars which support the ceiling are lacquered red and black, pro- ducing a noble effect. In the centre of the nave (geji?i), hangs a magnifi- cent gilt baldachin^ presented by the merchants of Osaka. Gilded pillars mark off the space in front of the main altar, which is lacquer- ed red and decorated with gilt carvings of lions and peonies. The two porcelain lanterns about 8 ft. high, in front of the altar, are from the famous potteries of Hizen. The handsomely carved and gilded shrine contains a good life-size- effigy of Nichiren, presented by the inhabitants of Tokyd. The coffered ceiling of the chancel (naijin) is plainly gilt, while the part of it immediately over the altar has gilt dragons, touched up with red, on a gilt ground. To the wall behind the altar are affixed modern paint- ings of Rakan. The colours of the square brackets in the cornices are green, blue, red, and chocolate, often with an outline in white or a lighter shade of the principal colour, and gold arabesques on the flat surfaces. The gem of Minobu, however, is the Temple of the True Bones, where the lover of Oriental decorative art will find in contem- porary freshness all those beauties which, in most of the religious edi- fices of Japan, have already been too much tarnished by the hand of time. A small fee is charged for admission. The exterior is un- pretentious; but on entering the oratory, the visitor should observe the lifelike paintings of cranes on the ceiling. A plaiu gallery leads hence to the sanctum sanctorum, where Nichiren' s remains are en- shrined. It is a small octagonal 220 Route 26. — Ways to tind from Kofn. building, elaborately decorated and all ablaze with colours and gold. Round the walls, on a gold ground, are full-sized representations of the white lotus-flower, the emblem of purity and of the Buddhist faith. The horizontal beams above have coloured diapers and geometrical patterns, the brilliant effect of which is toned down by the black, mixed with gold, of the rafters. Black and gold are likewise the colours used in the ceiling, which is secured by admirably worked metal fasten- ings. In the ramma are carvings of the Sixteen Disciples (Ju-roku Ra- kan), and on the doors are paintings of musical instruments. Bright individually as are the many colours in this temple, all are so cunningly blended and harmonised that the general effect is one of exceeding softness and richness. The shrine (Jioto), which was presented by the faithful of the province of Owari, is of gold lacquer and shaped like a two-storied pagoda. In it rests the crystal reliquary or casket contain- ing the bones of Nichiren, which is in the form of a tiny octagonal pagoda, standing on a base of silver in the form of an upturned lotus- blossom, which itself rests on a reversed lotus of jade. Its frame- work is of the alloy called shakudo, and one of the pillars bears an in- scription in silver damascening, which, among other particulars, gives a date corresponding to A.D. 1580. The other pillars are de- corated with silver tracery attached to the surface of the shakudo. The top is hung with strings of coral, pearls, and glass beads. The height of the whole is a little over 2 ft. Above hangs a baldachin presented by the inhabitants of Nagasaki. The only European innovation in the place is the introduction of two glass windows, which permit of a much better examination of the building than is generally obtain- able in the " dim religious light " of Japanese sacred edifices. The Tem- ple of the Posthumous Tablet is a plain, uninteresting building. Pend- ing the erection of the new build- ings, it has been temporarily used to hold the remains of the saint and an image of him carved by his disciple Nichho. The archbishop's residence is a beautiful specimen of Japanese house-decoration in the old style. Note the exquisite mo- dern open-work carvings of cranes and geese, and the fine paintings in the alcove (tokonoma) of the Recep- tion Rooms. For a fee of 25 sen, the priests officiating at the Kaisan- do will display the image on the altar and perform a short service (kaicho) in its honour. The chief yearly festival takes place on the 12th and 13th October, old calendar (some time in November). The ascent to Oku-no-in winds up Ueno-no-yama, the hill imme- diately behind the Founder's Tem- ple, and is an easy climb of 50 cho. After passing the small temple of Sanko-do, the road ascends through a forest of cryptomerias, and near the summit commands an extensive view, including Fuji, part of the Gulf of Suruga, and the promontory of Izu. On the top stands a plain little temple dedicated to Nichiren, whose crest of the orange-blossom is prominently marked on various objects within the enclosure. A spare day at Minobu may be devoted to the ascent of Shichimen- zan, whose summit is not quite 5 ri distant. The best place to halt on the way is Akasawa (good inn), 3 ri 2 cho from Minobu. There is a good road all the way up. The last 50 cho are marked by stone lanterns numbered from 1 to 50. No. 36 affords the best view, which includes the full sweep of Suruga Bay, with the promontory of Izu stretching far out to sea, a magnifi- cent prospect of Fuji, the fertile plain of Kofu intersected by the various streams uniting to form the Fujikawa, the valley of the Haya- kawa below to the 1., beyond which are seen Shiran e-san and the Koma- ga-take of Koshu, while Yatsu-ga- Shichimen-zan. The Fujikawa. 221 take, Kimpu-zan, and other distant ranges bound the prospect on the N. On the top, which the forest deprives of all view, stands a plain building dedicated to the goddess of the mountain. According to the legend, as Nichiren was one day preaching in the open air at Minobu, a beautiful woman suddenly made her appearance, and greatly excited the curiosity of his auditors. On Nichi- ren ordering her to assume her true form, she explained that she dwelt among the mountains to the west, and that seated on one of the eight points of the compass, she dispensed blessings to the other seven. She then begged for water, which was given to her in a vase, and at once the beautiful woman was transformed into a snake twenty feet long, covered with golden scales, and armed with iron teeth. A terrible blast swept down from the mountains, and she disappeared in a whirlwind towards the point of the com- pass indicated. The words " seven points- of-the-compass " (shichi-men) also mean " seven faces ; " and by an equivoque the popular belief has arisen that a serpent with seven heads had appeared to the saint, whom he deified under the name of Shichimen Daimyojin. Buddhist writers identify her with Srimahadeva, the deva of lucky omen, another name for the Hindoo god Siva. Game is plentiful on the hills surrounding Minobu. Deer and bears are frequently seen, and pheasants are abundant. Shooting, however, is strictly prohibited, as contrary to the tenets of the Bud- dhist faith. Departing from Mino- bu and passing through llilkif, the place where travellers coming down the Fujikawa en route to Minobu leave the boat, we reach Fukui, between which vill. and Itomi the Hayakawa is crossed. [For a description of the extreme- ly picturesque valley of this river, see p. 224.] The current flows so swiftly at the ferry that the boat has to be fastened to either bank by a rope. The crossing is effected by the help of a pole, and by quickly hauling on one end of the rope as the other is slackened. The scenery at this point is remarkably fine. A mass of rock, inclined at an acute angle on the 1. bank of the Fujikawa, just opposite the confluence of the Hayakawa, deserves notice. From Itomi onwards, the road generally follows the bank of the river to Yoka-ichiba {Inn, Wakao-ya) and Kiri-ishi (Inn, Matsuzaka-ya), then descending to the vill. of Nishijima, where the river makes a wide bend to the r. Beyond Kajika-zawa (Inn, Ueda-ya), the road enters the plain of Kofu, with its amphitheatre of mountains, whose various summits are seen from numerous other points ; but the best general view of them is enjoyed while crossing the bed of the Fujikawa, here called the Kama- nashi-gawa, beyond Anabara. The imposing mass to the 1. is Yatsu- ga-take, rising between Kane-ga- take to the r. and Koma-ga-take to its 1. The high mountain to the 1. of the latter, distinguished by a pile of rocks on its summit, is Ho-6-zan, to whose 1. stretches the great range of Shirane. The high mountain to the r. of Kane-ga-take is Kimpu-zan. Fuji's cone alone is visible above the intervening range. Shichimen-zan is seen on looking back down the valley. The 4j- ri separating Kajika-zawa from Kofu can be done by basha in about 3 hrs. 5. — From Kofu to Iwabuchi on the tokaido by the rapids op the Fujikawa. Roughly speaking, this is No. 4 reversed, but done partly by boat instead of wholly by road. Time, 1 day; 2 days if the journey be broken at Minobu, for which alight at Hakii. The walk from the river to the vill. of Minobu occupies f hr. Goach or jinrikisha can be taken for the first stage from Kofu to Kajikazawa, where boats are engaged to Iwabuchi (price $3J for boat with 4 men, weather being favourable, or seat in ordinary pas- senger boat entailing many delays, 35 sen). 222 Route 26. — Ways to and from Kofu. There is considerable traffic on the Fujikawa, no less than 600 boats being engaged in it. When the river is in its ordinary state, the times taken are as follows : KAJIKAZAWA to :— hrs. Hakii 2 J Nambu 1 IWABUOHI 3 Total 6J As far as the confluence of the Hayakawa the river flows placidly along, now at the base of bare rocky hills, now past villages and. rice-fields. Below this point begins a series of races and small rapids, the most remarkable of which is just above the Hanging Bridge, where the current whirls along at a dizzy pace. On nearing Matsuno, some fine groups of hexa- gonal andesite columns will be noticed on the r. bank. At Iwabuclii (Inn, *Tani-ya), the boats are taken along the canal to the landing-place close by the rail- way station. 6. — From Kofu to Shimo-no-Suwa on the nakasendo. Itinerary. KOFU to :— EL Cho. M. Nirazaki 3 5 7| Enno 2 — 5 DAI-GA-HARA ..2 9 5J Kyoraishi 1 16 3J Tsutaki 1 6 2f Kanazawa 3 8 7f Kami-no-Suwa 3 19 8£ SHIMO-NO-SUWA 14 2$ Total 17 31 43i This road is a continuation of the Koshu Kaido, the first section of which, from Tokyo to Kofu, has been described on pp. 214-16. It is practicable for basha and jinriki- shas the whole way. Leaving Kofu and crossing the Shiogawa, an affluent of the Fuji- kawa, we reach Nirazaki (Inn, Yashima-ya) and Fnno, also called Tsubarai or Marino. From a grove of trees just beyond Tsubarai, there is a grand view of Koma-ga-take, the whole sweep to the sharp summit of the precipitous rocky mass being seen to perfect advantage. The road now ascends the valley of the Kamanashi-gawa, the greater part of it as far as Dai-ga-hara being built up on the stony beds of various streams. The scenery of the valley is very pretty, and in many places quite striking. The r. side is lined with peculiar castellated cliffs of brown conglomerate, while to the 1. rises the high range of which Koma-ga-take is the principal fea- ture. Further on, Yatsu-ga-take appears to the r., while on looking back beautiful and varied views of Fuji are to be seen. We next reach Dai-ga-hara (Inn, Take-ya), whence the ascent of the Koshu Koma-ga-take can best be made (see p. 228). Beyond Dai-ga-hara, the road is lined on one side with fine red pine-trees, which shut out the view of the river as far as Kyoraishi (Inn, Izumi-ya). At the boundary of the provinces of Ko- shu and Shinshu, the road crosses to the 1. bank of the Kamanashi-gawa, and passing through the insignificant vill. of Shimo Tsutaki, reaches Kami Tsutaki (Inn, Osaka-ya), after which it becomes hilly. The highest point is reached at 3,070 ft. above the sea, being 1,050 ft. above Dai-ga-hara. Thence we descend to Kanazawa (Inn, Matsuzaka-ya), and down the valley of the Miya- gawa, where the waters of Lake Suwa soon come in view. From several points further on, fine views are gained of the mountains on the borders of Hida, the most conspicuous summits being Iwasu- ga-take and Yari-ga-take. The lofty mountain in the distance to the 1. of the lake is Nishi Koma-ga- take. Kami-no-Suwa (Inn, Botan-ya) The Misalca-toge. Karuizawa to Kofu. 223 is a busy town on the borders of the lake. About 2 ri distant stands the Ichi no Miya, or chief Shinto temple of the province of Shinshu, which contains some excellent wood carv- ings. The annual festival is held on the 1st August. The road now skirts the slopes on the N. shore of the lake, arjd passing through the hamlets of Owa andTakaki, reaches Shimo-no-Suwa (see Route 35). 7. — Fkom Kofu over the Misaka- toge to yoshida at the base of Fuji, and to Gotemba on the t6kaido railway. Itinerary. KOFU to :— Bi. Clio. M. Izaw T a 1 23 4 Kami Kurogoma . . 1 31 4J Tonoki 1 18 3f Kawaguchi 2 30 6J YOSHIDA 2 3 5| Yamanaka 4 8 10J Subashiri 2 — 5 GOTEMBA 2 30 7 Total 18 35 46J Time required, 2 days, stopping at Yoshida the first night. Yoko- hama may easily be reached by train from Gotemba on the evening of the second day. Jinrikishas are practicable with two men the whole way, when the roads are in good repair. The road follows the Kdshu Kai- do as far as Izawa {Inn, Shishimoto), where it turns off to the r., and soon enters a narrow valley. From Kami Kurogoma it rises rapidly to Tonoki {Inn, Sakai-ya), 3,200 ft. above the sea. It then ascends for about 1 hr. through a forest to the hut on the summit of the Misaka- toge, which is 5,120 ft. above the sea. The view of Fuji from this point, as it rises from Lake Kawa- guchi, is justly celebrated. Below is the vill. of Kawaguchi ; on the opposite side of the lake are Fu- natsu and Kodachi; further S. is Lake Yamanaka. The view look- ing back towards the N. and W. includes Kimpu-zan, Yatsu-ga-take, Koma-ga-take, Jizo-dake, and in the plain below, the vill. of Izawa. It is an hour's descent to KawagncM (Inn, Nakamura), a poor vill. lying a couple of hundred yards from the lake. Boats can be procured from here to Funatsu, making an agreeable change in the day's work ; or else one may follow the road skirting the lake through the hamlet of Akasaw T a for about f hr., with steep mountains on every side. Funatsu produces w 7 hite and coloured tsumugi, a coarse fabric woven from spun floss silk. From Funatsu to Yoshida, and indeed all the way on to Subashiri and Gotemba, the road traverses the moor that forms the base of Fuji. 8. — From Karuizawa on the Na- kasendo to kofu by the tsuyu- tare Pass. Itinerary. KARUIZAWA to :— Bi. Clio. M. Iwamurata 4 33 12 Usuda 2 5 5£ Takano-machi 1 7 3 Hata 1 20 3| Umijiri 3 10 . 8 Itabashi 2 10 5 J Nagasawa 4 4 10 Mrasaki 4 32 12 KOFU 3 18 8| Total 27 31 68 This route is recommended to those whose chief object is moun- tain climbing. Exclusive of such climbing, the journey takes 2 days, jinrikishas being available for the first part between Iwamurata and Usuda, and basha from Nirasaki to Kofu. The rest must be done on foot. There is accommodation of the usual country sort at the places mentioned in the itinerary. Hata is the best place from which to ascend Tateshina-yama. This expedition requires the whole of a 224 Route 27. — Valley of the Hayakawa. long day, but repays the trouble by the extensive view which the peak affords. From Umijiri, at the end of the Iwasaki gorge, one may visit the sulphur springs of Inago (21 cho), and thence go up to the Honzawa baths (3 ri), situated at a height of 3,200 ft. above Umijiri. The sum- mit of the Honzawa pass, some 40 min. walk beyond the Honzawa baths, is 7,400 ft. above the sea. From this point a path leads to the summit of Mikaburi-yama, 8,450 ft. above the sea. The whole expedi- tion will occupy a day. Itabashi is the best starting-point for the ascent of Akadake, but there is no path. Two ri across the moor from Itabashi is a wood-cutter's hut at the base of the spur where the ascent begins, and it is advisable to sleep there in order to make an ear- ly start. The hut stands about 5,300 ft. above the sea, which leaves 3,690 ft. to be still ascended, the summit having an altitude of 8,990 ft., and the climb being very steep in parts. The view includes Asama-yama, Kimpu-zan, Fuji, and all the moun- tains on the W. boundary of Koshu. Guides cannot always be procured at Itabashi. In this case it will be necessary to proceed to Hirasawa, half-way between Itabashi and Nagasawa, where they can be had at any time. From Nagasawa it is an easy climb up Gongen-dake, the most southerly of the numerous peaks known under the collective name of Yatsu-ga-take. It is not usual, however, with the Japanese to make the ascent until after the autumn equinox, and the traveller may therefore experience a little diffi- culty in obtaining guides. In this, as in the previous case, he will do best to make Hirasawa his starting- point. The ascent occupies about 5 hrs., the descent to Nagasawa 3 hrs., that to Hirasawa 4 hrs. The view includes the whole of the Hida-Shinshu range, amongst which Yari-ga-take is conspicuous to the N. W., Fuji is seen towering aloft S. by E., the Koshu Koma-ga-take S. W. by S., Shirane a little to its S., H6-6-zan S.S.W., distinguished by the monumental pile of rocks at its summit, and Kimpu-zan S.E. by E. ROUTE 27. The Valley of the Hayakawa. Itinerary. MINOBUto:— Ri. Cho. M. Akasawa 3 — 7J- Gokamura 2 J — 6 Kyo-ga-shima 2 — 5 Hayakawa 1 — 2 J Shimo Yujima . . 3J — 8J Narada 2 — 5 Ashikura 5 — 12J Arino 2 — 5 Dodo — 15 1 Midai — 10 f KOFU 2 — 5 Total 23 25 58 These distances are approximate, and it is possible that some of the mountain ri may be of 50 cho in- stead of only 36 cho, which would, of course, proportionately increase the mileage. An alternative plan at the start, for those coming down the Fujikawa, is to alight at the hamlet of Itomi, near the confluence of that river with the Hayakawa, and join the above itinerary near Gokamura, 3J ri from Itomi. This route is a very rough one ; for though so close to civilisation, the country through which it leads lies in the heart of the great mountain mass dividing Ko- shu from Shinshu and Suruga, and both the people and the roads are in much the same state as they were in earlier centuries before rail- ways were known or foreigners Narad a. 225 heard of. The journey can only be accomplished on foot, and one should travel as lightly as possible, for all baggage has to be carried by coolies, who are often difficult to obtain. The traveller will meet with no regular inns ; but the offi- cials and headmen of the various hamlets are very civil, and ready to provide the best accomodation their places afford. It is possible to com- bine with this trip the ascent of the Koshu Shirane-san and other lofty peaks which form the subject of the next route. At Akasawa the path strikes r. in order to enter the valley of the Hayakawa, which it does near Go- kamura. A short way beyond this, it descends to a pretty valley near the hamlet of Shio-no-ue, where the scenery is particularly striking. To the 1. rises Shichimen-zan, thickly wooded and seen to much better ad- vantage here than from Minobu. Directly opposite is the bold round summit of Amebata-yama, also called Zaru-ga-take, through the deep ravine to the 1. of which flows the Amebata-gawa. Below is seen the Hayakawa winding down the valley on the r., and forming almost a complete circle as it bends round a low wooded promontory, which from this point has the appearance of an island. The path now de- scends over a rough water-course to the bed of the river, and ascends the 1. bank to Kyo-ga-shima. Eight cho further on, it crosses the stream on a tsuri-bashi, or " hanging bridge," to the hamlet of Ho, in the neighbourhood of which a gold mine is worked. For a description of the tsuri-bashi of the mountain districts of Eastern and Central Japan, see p. 218. Another primi- tive kind of bridge, called mannen-bashi, has sometimes to be crossed on this route. It consists of a long piece of timber, which is simply tied at the end to project- ing supports, such as are used in the hanging bridge. The span is not so great as that of the tsuri-bashi ; but the narrow- ness of the roadway, and the imperfect manner in which the projecting beams are supported, give the traveller a most uncomfortable feeling of insecurity. The Japanese name is a hyperbole signifying " Bridge of a Myriad Years." Beyond Ho, the path leads over one of the lower spurs of Daikoku- yama, and follows the steep side of the valley high above the stream. After passing the hamlet of Nishi- no-miya, one re-crosses the river to Hayakawa, Comfortable quarters may be obtained one mile further on at the house of the Soncho (Mayor) of Misato, the "three villages " of which Hayakawa is one. Gold is said to be found in the neighbour- hood, while plantations of the paper- tree (Edgeworthia) and of tobacco, line this part of the valley. Higher up, beyond the hamlet of Arakawa, the scenery is charming. The river dashes along through a fine rocky glen, and is spanned by one of the mannen-bashi at a highly pictur- esque spot. After crossing the bridge, the road divides. The route to Narada turns to the r., and ascends a very steep hill for about 1 ri, winds round its upper slope, and descends again to the river through wild and rugged scenery before reaching the hamlet of Shimo Yu- jima. Beyond this place, the path crosses and re-crosses the river on mannen-bashi. About 40 cho on, and a little way up the ravine to the r., is the Lot spring of Kami Yujima (poor accommodation). Narada. (accommodation at a Buddhist temple), the last in- habited place in the valley, consists of but a few households. All the inhabitants bear the same sur- name, and seldom intermarry with the people of other villages. They are a primitive folk of a peculiar type of countenance, who wear in summer a loose hempen dress, and deer and bear-skins in the winter. Their dialect is peculiar, abound- ing in archaic words and ob- solete grammatical forms. Owing to their practical isolation from the outer world, their ignorance and want of education are extreme, and thev are content to live in dirt 226 Route 28. — Mountains between the Fujikawa & Tenryu. and squalor. Rice, sake, and soy are with them, luxuries to be in- dulged in on rare occasions, their ordinary food consisting only of millet and potatoes. Narada boasts " Seven Wonders " ( Nana Fu- shigi), amongst which are enu- merated a brackish pool, the waters of which are said to have the property of dyeing black any article of clothing left to steep in them for forty-eight hours, and a reed whose leaves grow only on one side of the stem. More interesting to the deter- mined pedestrian than these village wonders will be the ascent of Shira- ne-san, which may be taken on the way to Ashikura, instead of pro- ceeding to the latter place by the usual path according to the itin- erary. For this ascent, see next page. The ordinary path from Narada to Ashikura winds up and down a succession of forest-slopes, whose thick foliage almost entirely shuts out all view. Now and then, how- ever, glimpses are caught of Shi- rane-san and of the valleys of the Arakawa and Norokawa. Further on the path divides, — r. to Kofu via Hirabayashi, 1. to Kofu via Ashi- kura. The latter is not practicable during heavy rains ; but the travel- ler is recommended to take it when it can be traversed, on account of its wild and beautiful scenery. A portion of the way lies down a precipitous rocky ravine known as the Ide-zaiva> where the gorge is in many places so narrow that its perpendicular sides seem almost to meet overhead. The path descends by the side of a torrent, crossing and re-crossing the stream on trunks of trees, and being occasionally carried over clefts and landslips on bridges of very primitive construction. Ashikurn, which stands on the 1. bank of the Midai-gawa, consists of four hamlets named Katsnzawa (the highest up the valley), Ozori, Kozori, and Furu-yashiki lower down. Persons who intend to make the ascent of H6-6-zan or Kaigane should stay at Kozori. There is also fair accommodation at Furu-yashiki. Jinrikishas may sometimes be found on entering the Kofu plain. EOUTE 28. The Mountains between the Fuji- kawa AND THE TeNBYU-GAWA. 1. SHIBANE-SAN ( NODOBI, AI-NO- TAKE, KAIGANE). 2. HO-6-ZAN. 3. THE KOMA-GA-TAKE OF KOSHU. 4. AKAISHI-SAN. The great mountain mass to the W. of Kofu, lying between the valleys of the Fujikawa, Oigawa, and Tenryu-gawa, is second only in orographical importance to the Etchu-Hida mountains described in Eoute 30. Climbing in this range involves no little hardship, for the reasons stated in the introduc- tion to the previous route, with which the greater part of this one may conveniently be combined. None but experienced mountaineers should attempt it. 1. — Shibane-san. In order to avoid confusion when arranging with peasant-guides and hunters, let it be understood that Shirane-san is not one individual peak, but a general name for the northern and more elevated portion of the range of which Nodori-san, Ai-no-take, and Kaigane are the chief peaks. The two latter are called Arakawa-dake and Kita-dake respectively in the Geological Maps. There exists a somewhat amusing i-ivalry between the inhabitants of Narada from which the first two peaks are as- cended, and those of Ashikura, the nearest point to the third, one village maintain- ing that Ai-no-take is the highest of the Ascent of Shirane-san. 227 three and the true Shirane, while the other claims that honour for Kaigane. An unprejudiced observer, looking at the range from the summit of Ho-6-zan or from any- other mountain top that commands a view of the two peaks, will adjudge the Ashi- kura people to he in the right about the question of altitude. Narada (see p. 225) is the starting point for the ascent, — not that there is any regularly marked path thence to the top of the range, but that guides are there procurable who know the way up, and will carry whatever is necessary in the way of provisions ;and bedding. Those who purpose to ascend all of Shirane's peaks must be prepared to sleep out three nights, and, taking Nodori-san first, to cross on the fourth day from the base of Kaigane to Ashikura (see p. 226). Nodori and Ai-no-take in- volve sleeping out two nights and descending on the third day — like- wise to Ashikura. There is a hut at the E. base of Kaigane, but none on the top of the range. Ai-no-take cannot be ascended direct from Narada ; Nodori must first be climbed, and the track followed along the ridge to the former peak. From Narada there is a choice of ways up Shirane, one leading along a ravine called Hiro-Kochi, the other up the Shira-Kochi a short way below it. To the top of the ridge is a stiff climb of 9 hrs., frequent rests being needed by the guides who carry the burdens. The height is 8,400 ft. above the sea, or 5,900 ft. above Narada, and snow often lies there as late as July. Once on the ridge, the rest of the ascent is easy. In 2 hrs. the first peak, nameless on the maps, is reached. The view includes W.S.W., the round top of Ena-san in Mino ; N.W. by W., Ontake ; and in front of the highest peak of a long ridge, the Koma-ga-take of Shinshu. Nori- kura bears N.W., and Yari-ga-take N.W. by N. In the far distance N.E., the top of the Nikko Shirane can just be descried, and the Chi- chibu mountains are well seen in the same direction. Ho-6-zan is nearly N.N.E. ; then come Jizo-ga- take, and Kwannon and Yakushi close together. Fuji, the basin of the Fujikawa, and the Kofu plain are distinctly visible. Half an hour more brings us to the top of NMori, 9,970 ft., which commands much the same view as the previous summit, with the ad- dition of Ai-no-take and Kaigane, the latter of which now comes in sight for the first time. From the summit of Nodori to that of Ai-no-take (10,260ft.) takes 2 hrs. The top consists of bare rock ; but a little below, every shel- tered nook has a patch of grass, gay with the flowers that inhabit higher altitudes. Ten min. below the summit on the E. side, is an excel- lent camping place. The view from the highest point includes, besides the mountains already mentioned, the following : — Koma-ga-take a little to the E. of N., Kaigane N.N.E. , Yatsu-ga-take just on the E. of Kaigane ; Kimpu-zan N.E. by E., and Senjo-ga-take, a much, lower mountain on the 1. of the Norokawa, N.W. The source of this stream is perceived far down on the N.W. flank of Ai-no-take. Towards the S., and beyond Nodori- san, a long range of mountains is seen stretching down the frontier of Koshu, and getting gradually lower as it approaches Minobu. Fuji rises between S.E. and E.S.E., while H6- 6-zan and Jizo-ga-take on the one side, and Ontake, Norikura, and Yari-ga-take stand up perfectly clear on the other. The descent from Ai-no-take to Ashikura is fatiguing as far as a stream some 4,200 ft. above sea level. This stream is the Arakawa, one of the sources of the Hayakawa. If the day is too far spent to allow of Ashikura being reached before nightfall, one may sleep at some wood-cutters' huts, 1J hr. before getting to that village. Kaigtine (10,330 ft.) can best be ascended from Kozori, one of the hamlets of Ashikura. It is a day's climb to a small temple where a 228 Route 28. — Mountains between the Fujikawa & Tenryu. halt may be made for the night, whilst the remainder is said to take 6 hrs. The usual plan is to descend to the temple and spend the second night there, returning to Ashikura next day. But should the traveller wish to complete the round by ascending Ai-no-take and N6- dori-san, it will be necessary to sleep out one if not two nights more before descending either to Narada or to this temple. 2. — H6-6-ZAN. The ascent of this mountain (9,550 ft.) which, like that of Kai- gane, is best made from Ashikura, will occupy a good pedestrian about 9 hrs., and the descent 5 hrs. in- cluding stoppages. Though it is possible, by making an early start, to complete the ascent and descent in one day, it is not usual for pil- grims to do so. They generally, on the downward journey, halt for the night at the wood-cutters' hut of v^muro, 1J ri below the summit. The accommodation being rough, provisions and bedding should be taken. Those who wish to enjoy the morning view from the summit must either make a late start from Komoro and spend the night at Omuro, ascending next morning at daybreak; or start early, and bivouac at the hollow between the summits of Jizo and H6-6-zan. In the latter case it will be necessary to take utensils for carrying water, as no water can be got beyond Omuro. The ascent commences beyond the hamlet of Kutsuzawa, 12 did from Kozori. The view from Suna-harai, a rocky peak over which the path leads, includes in front Senjo-ga- take, over whose r. flank is seen the outline of the Shinshti Koma- ga-take ; on the 1. the ridge slopes down to the valley of the Norokawa, on the opposite side of which rises the sharp summit of Kaigane ; lower down the valley, stands out the bold massy form of Ai-no-take, while in the further distance appear the lofty mountains on the northern boundary of Suruga. To the r., the summits of Yakushi-dake and Kwannon-dake shut out the more distant prospect. The view on looking back includes Fuji, the Kofu plain, and surrounding moun- tains. Yakushi-dake is not usually ascended by pilgrims. From Kwan- non-dake which they do generally visit, there is a fine view of the ravine through which the Norokawa flows. The highest point — H6-6-zan properly so called — is still further on, and may be scaled as far as the ledge which supports the two enor- mous blocks or pillars of granite that form the actual summit. The view closely resembles that from Koma-ga-take described below. H6-6-zan may also be ascended from Enno on the Koshu Kaido (see p. 222). The distance to the top of the gap between Jizo-dake (a lower spur of the Kwannon-dake above-mentioned) and Hd-o-zan is called 5 ri. The path crosses the spur to the 1. of the vill., and descends to the bed of the Komu- kawa, which is followed up until the actual ascent of 2J ri com- mences. 3. — The Koma-ga-take of Koshu. Dai-ga-hara on the Koshu Kaido is the best starting point for this grand mountain, 9,840 ft. above sea level. The climb is so precipi- tous and difficult in parts as to have given rise among the pilgrims to the use of such terms as Oya shirazu Ko shirazu (see p. 146), Idvi no Nanjo, or the " First Difficulty," Idii no Nozoki, or the " First Peep " (over a precipice), etc. The ascent is also so long — nominally 7 ri to the summit — as to necessitate sleeping one night at the Omuro or Uma- dome huts on the mountain side. Water should be taken up, as none can be procured except at these huts. The summit consists of two peaks, on one of which stands a bronze figure of the Shinto god Onamuji. On the second and higher peak,, called Oku-no-in, is a small image Ascent of Koma-ga-take and Akaishi-san. 229 of the Buddhist deity Marishi-ten. The summit commands a magnifi- cent view on every side. Looking S., the eye sweeps over the valleys of the Norokawa and Tashiro-gawa, to the 1. of which rises the long range of Shirane, the most conspic- uous summits being the snow- streaked peak of Kaigane-san which stands in close proximity, and beyond, the bold mass of Ai-no-take, the central portion of the range. Beneath is the ravine through which .the Norokawa flows as it winds round the base of Kaigane ; the mountain to the r. is Senjo-ga-take. Beyond Shirane several high moun- tains are visible, being probably those that stand on the N. boundary of Suruga. Towards the E. the valley of the Fujikawa is seen between the near summit of H6-6-zan and the E. slope of Kai- gane, and in the far distance can be distinguished the promontory of Izu and the sea. The most striking feature of the view is Fuji, to whose 1. a wide plain stretches far away to the E. Towards the N. and W. the following mountains appear in succession : — A portion of the Chichibu range, Kimpu-zau, Yatsu-ga-take, Asama-yama, the lofty mountains on the borders of Etchu and Hida, Ontake, the Koma-ga-take of Shinshu, and Ena-san, while the nearer view in- cludes the plain of Kofu, the valley of the Kamanashi-gawa, Tateshina- yama, the mountains about the Wada pass, Lake Suwa, and the valle/y of the Tenryu-gawa. Rhododendrons grow in great quantities on Koma-ga-take. Dur- ing the latter part of July, when the trees, which attain to a consider- able size, are in full bloom, they impart a charming hue to the scene. 4. — Akaishi-san. This, though one of the highest peaks of the range separating the valleys of the Tenryii and the Oi- gawa, is little known because not visible from any of the ordinary lines of travel. It is best approached from Takato (Inn, Ikegami-ya), an important town situated in the valley of the Mibukawa, an affluent of the Tenryu. Those coming from the E. may most expeditiously reach Takato via Kofu and Kami Tsutaki on the high road to Shimo- no-Suwa, whence it is a 7 ri walk, the path turning off 1. at the vill. of Sezawa, 1 ri beyond Kami Tsu- taki, and crossing the Nyukasawa- toge and Shibiri-toge. Hill scenery alternates with park-like stretches that recall England. Those from the W. reach it from Ina (see p. 230), 2 ri. Travellers coming from the direction of Shimo-no-Suwa may also reach Takato from Kanazawa on the Koshu Kaido, from which village it is a pleasant walk of some .3 ri to Midogaito(Iim, Echigo-ya), and then 3J ri more to Takato. From Takato the road leads due S. up the valley of the Mibukawa, affording good views of the W. side of the Koshu Koma-ga-take, and over the Ichinose-tdge (4,450 ft.) to Onna-taka This hanilet is said to derive its name from the fact that the women are here the heads of the households. It is also stated that if a man from any other place marries a woman belonging to this ham- let, he is sure soon to droop and die. and Ichiba, which is recommended as a halting place. Places further on where one may stay are Oka- wara, (Inn by Imai Takijiro), Kamazawa, and the warm sulphur baths of Kosliibu. The actual ascent takes 11 hrs. from Koshibu, being an arduous scramble, during the first part of which the Koshibu-gawa has to be crossed and re-crossed more than a score of times. This is followed by a hard climb of 2 hrs. or so up the steep tree-clad slopes of a spur of Akaishi-san, the ascent then lead- ing over bare loose rocks of a red- dish colour for 2 hrs. more to a point where it is necessary to turn and go straight up to the final arete. This is a moderate climb of 1 hr., and it requires another hour 230 Route 29. — Rapids of the Tenryu-gawa. to walk up to the highest point of the peak, which affords a fine view of most of the high mountains of Central Japan. A night has to be spent in what the hunter-guides call a grand cave, but is a bare shelter between two rocks. Water is not always easily found on the mountain side. About 1 m. from the summit is a hollow where the climber who wishes to see the sunrise might sleep. Instead of returning to Takato, it might be possible to cross over into the valley of the Oigawa, and either descend to the Tokaido, or strike the head-waters of the Haya- kawa across another range (see p. 225); but the country is rough in the extreme. EOUTE 29. The Eapids of the Tenryu-gawa. These rapids, the finest in Japan, form a natural route connecting the two chief highways of the cen- tral portion of the Main Island, — the Nakasendo and the Tokaido. The village where one embarks is called Tokimata (Inn, *Umeno- ya). It is reached from the E. by travelling along the Nakasendo as far as Shimo-no-Suwa on Lake Suwa, thence to Matsushima (Inns, Mon-ya and Tsuta-ya) on another important highway called the Ina Kaido, and along that highway to Ii0 bags of rice. In the middle of the town, close to the inns, stand two noted Bud- dhist temples, — Kivannon-ji and Ko no Amida, the former rather tawdry, the latter exquisite though on a small scale. The legend on which the sanctity of this temple rests, is a good example of the fusion that took place between Buddhism and Shinto in early times. A Buddhist priest named Kakujo made a pilgrimage of one hundred days to the shrine of the Sun -Goddess at Ise, to entreat her to reveal to him her original shape, — the idea in those days being that the Shinto deities were avatars, or temporary mani- festations (Gongen), of winch Buddhist saints were the originals (J^onchi Butsu). On the hundredth night the Sun-Goddess appeared to Kakujo in a dream, com- manding him to go out next morning on the sea-shore of Futami, where she pro- mised to show herself to him as she really was. He did so, and there appeared floating on the surface of the waves a gold-coloured serpent over ten feet long. But the priest was not yet satisfied. " This," cried he, " is but a pious device 248 Route 32, — The Slirlnes of Ise, on the part of the divinity, whose real shape that monster can never be,"— and so saying, he took off him his priestly Heart' and flung it at the serpent, which vanished with it into the sea.. Three nights later the Goddess appeared to Kakujo in a second dream, and said : " The serpent indeed was but another temporary mani- festation. My real shape is preserved in the temple of JVluryojuji at Ko in the dis- trict of Suzuka in this same land of Ise. Go thither, and thou shalt see it," He went accordingly, and found that Amida was the Buddhist deity there worshipped. The image was considered so holy that the priests of the temple at first refused to show it ; but what was not the aston- ishment of all present when, on Kakujo' s request being- at last granted, the scarf which he had thrown at the sea-serpent was found twined round the image's neck !— All this happened at a very early period. The removal of the temple to Tsu took place about A.D. 1680, when the original shrine at Ko had fallen into decay, and the image had been found one day thrown down on the place where the temple now holding it has been raised in its honour. The holy image is enclosed in a shrine on the altar, and is only exhibited on payment of a fee, when a short service in its honour is performed and the legend re- cited by the attendant priest. E. and 1. are images of Kwannon and Seishi. Behind, and continuing all round the walls of the building, are dimi- nutive images of all the Buddhas and Bosatsu, called Sen-oku Butsu, lit., a thousand hundreds of thou- sands of Buddhas. Among other objects of interest, note the very large wooden figure representing Buddha dead. It is laid on real quilts. Gilt and painted carvings of Buddhas and angels fill the ramma of the chapel. The green coffered ceiling is covered with gilt Sanskrit characters in relief. A mirror in front of the altar attests that the temple belongs to the Shingon sect. A small octagonal structure to the 1. contains gilt images of the Thirty-three Kwannon. If possible, this temple should be visited in the evening, when there are almost always crowds of pil- grims, who— though Ise is their chief objective point— also think it well to pay their respects at all the lesser shrines on the way thither. Itinerary. TSU to :— Bi. Cho. M. Onoe 2 6 5J Rokken 1 8 3 MATSUZAKA .... 1 2 2J Saigu 2 20 6| YAMADA 2 27 6| Total 9 27 23j Taking jinrikishas at Tsu (until the railway be finished), we have the advantage of a good, flat road all the way to Yamada. Indeed throughout the province of Ise the excellence of the roads, of the jinrikishas, and of the jinrikisha-men adds considerably to the traveller's enjoyment. It is also possible to travel in carriages which resemble small prison-vans. Pilgrims avail themselves largely of this method of progression, which is cheaper than jinrikisha, but also slower. At the far-end of the town, stands 1. a temple dedicated to Yuki Kotsu- ke no Suke, a celebrated retainer of Kusunoki Masashige. It dates from 1884, and offers an elegant example of modern Shinto architecture. The same grounds contain a small but gaily painted shrine of Hachiman. A little further on, various paths marked by torii or sign-posts lead 1. to an ancient and popular Shinto temple, situated in a pine-grove on the sea-shore, and called Karasu Gozen no Yashiro (or for short, Karasu), that is, the Crow Temple. A large sea-bathing establishment has recently been started here. This temple is dedicated to "Waka- hirume (also called Ori-hime, i.e., the Weaving Maiden), a younger sister of the Sun-Goddess. The name Karasu in itself points to some connection with the sun ; for that luminary is popularly supposed to be inhabited by a crow. Hence a crow looking at the sun is a subject frequently treated by Japanese artists. As we hurry on, numerous vil- lages are passed through, constant bands of wayfaters are met arrayed in holiday attire, and an air of Various Ways. to Yam a da. 249 bustle and prosperity is seen to pervade the whole country-side. To the r. are the mountains on the borders of Iga. The well-cultivated plain to the 1. mostly appears boundless, as it is too level to allow of many glimpses being caught of Owari Bay which lies beyond. Ilokkeil, though a well-known place, offers no attractions. Offi- cially it is now known by the name of Miwatari. Here the road follow- ed by pilgrims to Hase and the other Holy Places of Yamato turns off r. Matsnzaka {Inn, Tai-ya). The name of this town should be fami- liar to all Japanese scholars, as the birth-place of Motoori. Motoori Norinaga, the prince of Japanese literati, was born in 1730 and died in 1801. A pupil of the scarcely less distinguished scholar Mabuchi, he continued Mabuchi' s work of investigating Japanese antiquity, bringing back into literary use the pure ancient Japanese language, restoring the Shinto religion to the supremacy of which Buddhism had robbed it, in a word, em- phasising and glorifying everything na- tive as against that part of Japanese civilisation which was new and of foreign origin. The restoration of the Mikado to the absolute authority which centuries before had been usurped by the Shoguns, was naturally a prime object of the endeavours of a man to whom antiquity and perfection were convertible terms, and in whose belief the Mikado was really and truly a descendant of the Goddess of the Sun.' Motoori and his school thus be- came to some extent the authors of the revolution which, half a century later, overturned the Shogunate and brought the Mikado forth from seclusion to govern as well as reign. Motoori's works were very numerous. The greatest is his ela- borate commentary on the Kojiki, called Kojlki Den, which is practically an ency- clopaedia of Japanese ancient lore, written in a style as clear as it is elegant. The printing of the forty-four volumes of which it consists was not concluded till 1822, long after the author's death. Mo- toori was first buried at Myorakuji, some miles from Matsuzaka. The town is dominated by a hill called Yoio no Mori, on which stands the remains of the castle founded in 1584 by Kamau Hida- no-Kami Ujisato. Below, at the entrance to the grounds, is the little Shinto Temple of Yamamuro Jinja, dedicated to Motoori who has been apotheosised during the present reign. Saig'Ti was in ancient days the abode of the Imperial virgin princesses who, until the civil wars of the 14th century, successively held the office of High Priestess of the Sun-Goddess. 3. — From Kyoto to Yamada by t6kaido railway and kw t ansei Railway. CD |a| Names * o "p of Remarks. .1 £ M Stations. KYOTO. Hm. Inari. 4| Yamashina. 8 Otani. 10 Baba (OTSU). 16 Kusatsu Jet j Change carri- i ages. 2H Ishibe. 26 Mikumo. m Fukawa. m Tsuge. Or Kami Tsuge. m Seki. 51 Kameyama Jet.. ) Change carri- ' ages. For the first portion of the jour- ney, which follows the Tokaidd Railway and skirts Lake Biwa, see the latter part of Route 34 and Route 40. At Kusatsu we change into the Kwansei Tetsudo carriages, and though leaving the so-called To- kaido Railway, really follow and cross and re-cross, a section of the old Tokaido road all the way to Kameyama. The line is a pretty one, especially between Tsuge and Seki, where the gradient is steep enough to make the assistance of an extra engine necessary, al- though two tunnels have been cut through the steepest parts of the ascent. This is the Suzuka-toge. The long serrated peak to the r. after leaving Seki is Shakujo-ga- take. At Kameyama we change car- riages again, and the rest of the journey hence to Yamada coincides 250 Route 32. — The Shrines of he. with that given in the preceding section. 4. — Yokohama to Yamada by Sea. Should the traveller elect to go by sea, he had better begin by en- quiring whether there is any Euro- pean food to be had on board, and if not, then take provisions with him for the 18 or 20 hrs. voyage from Yokohama to Yokkaichi, as well as for the further voyage next day on to Kami Yashiro. The voyage is the same as that de- scribed in Route 36 as far as the entrance of Owari Bay, where the track diverges, the steamer turning to the r. up the bay near the head of which Yokkaichi is situated. The scenery at the entrance is very pretty. The ship passes between r. Irako-zaki, the hilly promontory forming the S.W. extremity of the province of Mikawa, and 1. the islet of Kamishima,, behind whose white and red cliffs lie other larger islands and the mainland of the diminu- tive province of Shima. Ahead and to the r., as the ship glides into the still waters of the landlocked bay, are seen portions of the provinces of Mikawa and Owari, notably Cape Morozaki, — the tip of the peninsula on which stand the commercial towns of Hancla and Taketoyo, connected with the Tokaido by a branch line of Railway, of which Obu is the junction. At Yokkaichi the excellent Nippon Yusen Kwaisha steamer is exchang- ed for a small coasting one. Leaving Yokkaichi, the views are delightful as one skirts the W. shore of Owari Bay. In the_dis- tance are the mountains of Omi, Iga, and Ise, and in the foreground a pine-clad beach, forming a de- licious symphony of yellow, green, and greyish blue, especially when seen through the opal haze of spring or autumn. The steamer calls in at Tsu, a little more than half-way to Kami-Yashiro. Total time of voyage from Yokka- ichi, about 5 hrs. 5. — Yamada and Neighbourhood. Temples of Ise. [Province of Shima.] Yamada (Inns, *Abura-ya, Kyu- ka-en in a quieter part of the town close to the Geku temple, and no less than 268 others, great and small) is a large town formed by the amalgamation of several smaller ones — Yamada proper, Uji, Furu- ichi, etc. It lives by and for the Ise pilgrims, as do all the towns on the road leading to it from the North. So openly is this fact acknowledged, that the completion of the projected Sangu Tetsudb, or Pilgrim Railway from Tsu to Yamada, has been deferred from year to year at the earnest entreaty of the inhabitants of Matsuzaka and other towns and villages on the line, who not unnaturally fear the ruin of their trade. Yamada would be the only place benefited. The inns and tea-houses of Yamada are very lively, especially at night. At some of them a celebrated dance is performed, called the Ise Ondo. This dance possesses much grace, added to the interest of a considerable antiquity. Unfortunately, however, the character of the houses at which alone it is generally to be witnessed precludes us from recommending a visit thither. A religious dance called Kagura is executed at the temples for such pilgrims as choose to pay for it. It is divided into three grades, called " Small," " Great," and " Extra Great" (Slid, Dai, Dai-dai). The charges for these dances were, in 1893, as fol- lows : — Ise Ondo $ 2 Slid Kagura 5 Dai Kagura 10 Dai-dai Kagura 20 Among the peep-shows and booths in which the main street of Yamada abounds, are some devoted to yet another kind of dance which may be seen for a cent or two. It is called Sttgi Tama. The fun consists in the spectators flinging Yamada. The Ise Pilgrimage. 251 coppers at the faces of the girls who form the little orchestra, and who are trained to such skill in " duck- ing," that it is said they are never hit. The chief objects for sale at Yamada, besides holy pictures and other articles of Shinto devotion, are ornamental tobacco-pouches made of a peculiar sort of oil-paper. The best way to see the sights of Yamada and neighbourhood is to go the following round, which takes a day by jinrikisha to do comfort- ably : — from the inn to the Geku Temple, Futami, Toba (for the view from Hiyori-yama), the Naiku Tem- ple, and back to the inn. The road is mostly excellent and quite level, except between Futami and Toba. One may conveniently lunch either at Futami or at Toba. In addition to this round, or in lieu of Toba, good pedestrians are advised to climb Asama-yama (see p. 256). It may be mentioned that local Japa- nese parlaDce indicates respect for the great temples by suffixing the word San, ^ Mr.," to their names, — thus Naiku San, Geku San, pro- nounced Naixan, Gexan. Thousands of pilgrims resort annually to the temples of Ise, chiefly in winter and spring, when the country-folk have more leisure than at other seasons. The rationalistic educated classes of course take little part in such doings ; but even at the present day the majority of arti- sans Jn Tokyo, and still more in Kyoto and Osaka, believe that they may 'find difficulty in gaining a livelihood unless they invoke the protection of the tutelary goddesses of Ise by performing the pil- grimage at least once in their lives, and the peasants are even more devout be- lievers. In former times it was not un- common for the little shop-boys of Yedo to abscond for a while from their em- ployers, and to wander along the Tokaido as far as Ise, subsisting on the alms which they begged from travellers ; and having obtained the bundle of charms, consisting of bits of the wood of which the temples are built, they made their way home in the same manner. This surreptitious method of performing the pilgrimage was called nuhe-mairi, and custom forbade even the sternest parent or master from finding any fault with the young devotee who had been so far for so holy a purpose. Stories are even told of dogs having performed the pilgrimage by themselves. Those whose residence is Kyo- to are met by their friends at the suburb of Keage on their return home. The custom is for these friends— mostly females— to ride out singing the tune of the Ise Ondo dance, three persons being seated on each horse, one in the middle, and one on either side in a sort of wooden hod or basket. High revel is held at the tea-houses with which Keage abounds. This custom is termed saka-muJcai. The Ise pilgrims may be distinguished by their gala clothes, and by the large bundles of charms wrap- ped in oil-paper or placed in an oblong varnished box, which they carry suspend- ed from their necks by a string. The special character of sanctity attach- ing to the Ise temples arises partly from their extreme antiquity, partly from the pre-eminence of the goddesses to whom they are dedicated. The Naiku, lit. "Inner Temple," is believed by the Japanese to date from the year 4 B.C., and is sacred to the Sun-Goddess Ama-terasu, ances- tress of the Mikados. Down to the 14th century, some virgin Princess of the Im- perial family was always entrusted with the care of the mirror which is the Sun- Goddess's emblem, and of which some Japanese writers speak as if it were itself a deity, while others take it to be merely the image of the goddess. It is kept in a box of chamsscyparis wood, which rests on a low stand covered with a piece of white silk. The mirror itself is wrapped in a bag of brocade, which is never opened or renewed ; but when it begins to fall to pieces from age, another bag is put on, so that the actual covering consists of many layers. Over the whole is placed a sort of wooden cage with ornaments said to be of pure gold, over which again is thrown a cloth of coarse silk, falling to the floor on all sides. The coverings of the box are all that can be seen when the doors are_opened at the various festivals. The Geku, or " Outer Temple," so-called because of its slightly inferior sanctity, is now dedicated to the Goddess of Food, Toyo-uke-bime-no-Kami, also called Uke- mochi -no-Kami, but was in earlier times under the patronage of Kuni-toko-tachi- no-Mikoto, a god whose name signifies literally "His Augristness the Earthly Eternally Standing One." In either case, this temple may be considered as sacred to the worship of a _deification of the earth, while the Naiku is dedicated to a deification of the sun, the great ruler of heaven. The native authorities do not in- form us of the character of the emblem by which the Earth-Goddess is represented. As in the case of other Shinto temples, so here also at Ise many secondary deities {ai-dono) are invoked. Those of the Naiku are Tajikara-o-no-Kami, lit. "the Strong- Handed-Male-Deity," who pulled the Sun- Goddess out of the cave to which she had retired to avoid her brother's ill-usage, and a goddess who was one of the fore- bears of the Imperial line. The second- ary deities of the Geku are Ninigi-no- CO I- < Ul lain iff liiai The Gelcu Temple. 253 Mikoto, grandson to the Sun-Goddess and ancestor of the Imperial line, and two of the gods who attended him on the occa- sion of his descent from heaven to earth. The architecture seen at Ise is believed to represent the purest and most archaic Japanese style,— the old native hut, in fact, before the introduction of Chinese models. A very ancient rule prescribes that the two great Ise temples, as also every minor edifice connected with them, shall be razed to the ground and recon- structed every twenty years in exactly the same style, down to the minutest detail. For this purpose there are, both at the NaiTcu and at the Gelcu, two closely adjacent sites. The construction of the new temples is commenced on the vacant sites towards the end of the period of twenty years ; and when they are finish- ed, the ceremony of Sengyo, or " Trans- ference," takes place, the sacred emblems being then solemnly and amidst a great concourse of pilgrims removed to the new buildings from the old. These are forth- with pulled down and cut up into myriads of charms (o harai), which are sold to pilgrims. The renovation last took place in October, 1889. The immemorial anti- quity of the Ise temples is therefore only the antiquity of a continuous tradition, not that of the actual edifices. It is pro- bable, however, that at no time for many centuries past could Ise have been seen to such advantage as at present, when the minute and enthusiastic researches of four generations of scholars of the " Shin- to Revival" school into the religious archaeology of their nation have at last met with official encouragement, and the priests have been endowed with the pecu- niary means to realise their dream of restoring the Japan of to-day to the reli- gious practices, architecture, and ritual of pristine ages untouched by the foreign influence of Buddhism. Closely connected with the great _Ise shrines are two smaller ones, the Izogu at Isobe on the frontier of Ise and Shima, some 4 or _5 ri beyond Toba, and the Takihara Gu at No]iri in Ise. The sacred- ness of these places is traced to the fact that they were in turn the temporary head-quarters of the cult of the Sun-God- dess before it was fixed definitively in its present site. The Izogu scarcely deserves a visit. The Takihara Gu is described near the end of Route 43. Leaving the Abura-ya inn and wending through the town, we pass r., in Okamoto-cho, the Shimpu Kosha, where are sold small gold and silver medals called Shirtipu, inscribed with the name of the Geku temple, together with other charms. The GJekfi Temple. The ap- proach is pretty. A Shin-en, lit. " Divine Park," containing a circular lake, has replaced the houses and fields that covered the place previ- ous to 1889, and beyond rises a hill finely timbered with cryptomerias, huge camphor-trees, maples, keyaki, and the sacred though not imposing ma-sakahi (Cleyera japonica). The main entrance is by the Ichi no Torii, or First Archway, to whose r. is the Sanshitsho, lit. " Place of Assembly," where members of the Imperial family change their gar- ments previous to worshipping in the temple. A broad road leads hence through the trees to the temple. A short way up it is the Ni no Torii, or " Second Archway," near which stands a shop for the sale of pieces of the wood used in the con- struction of the temple, packets' of rice that have been offered to the gods, and o fuda, or paper charms inscribed with the name of the Goddess of Food. Next door is a building where the kagura dances are performed at the request of pious pilgrims, and where the food offerings are sold for a few sen a meal. Beyond these buildings we soon reach the enclosure contain- ing the Geku, or actual temple, concealed for the most part behind a succession of fences. The outer fence, called Ita-gaki, is built of Index to Plan of Ise Temple. 1. Bampei (screen). 2. Ita-gaki (1st fence). 3. Ara-gaki (2nd fence). 4. Tama-gaki (3rd fence). 5. Mizu-gaki (4th fence). 6. Gate-keeper's Lodge. 7. Shijo-den. 8 ) q' [■ Hoden (treasuries). 10. Shoden (chief shrine). 11. Mike-den. 254 Boute 32.— The Shrines of he. cryptomeria wood, neatly planed and unpainted. It is 339 ft. in width at the front, and 335 ft. in the rear ; the E. side is 247 ft., the W. side 235 ft. long, so that the shape is that of an irregular oblong, the formation of the ground rather than any necessary relation of numbers having determined the proportions. The temple on the alternative site, which was hewn down in 1889, bad its long side E. and W., and the short N. and S. A little to one side of the middle of the front face is the principal en- trance, formed of a torii similar to those already passed, but of small- er dimensions. The screen opposite is called a bampei. There are four other entrances in the Ita-gaki formed each by a torii, one on each side and two at the back, one of which belongs to the Mike-den, where the food offerings are set out twice daily. The S. torii gives access to a small court, the further side of which is formed by a thatch- ed gateway ordinarily closed by a white curtain, while the ends are formed by the Ita-gaki. On the 1. hand is a gate-keeper's lodge. Un- less the pilgrim be an Imperial personage, he is prevented by the curtain from seeing much further into the interior. The curtain here mentioned has a melancholy historical interest. Viscount Mori, Japanese Representative, first at Washington and then in Loudon, after- wards Minister of Education and one of the foremost leaders of modern Japa- nese progress, was assassinated by a Shinto fanatic for having, when on a visit to Ise, lifted this curtain with his walking-stick in order to obtain a better view of the interior of the temple court. The murder did not take place at once, but some months la.ter, on the 11th February, 1889, as Mori was donning his gala uniform for the ceremony of the pro- mulgation of the Japanese Constitution. The assassin, one Nishino Bunta.ro, was immediately cut down by the Minister's attendants ; but by an obliquity of judg- ment curiously common in Japan, popular sympathy ranged itself so markedly on his side as against his unfortunate victim, that pilgrimages were made to his grave in the Yanaka cemetery at Tokyo, hun- dreds of wreaths and sticks of incense were placed upon it, and odes composed in the assassin's honour. The popular infatuation even went so far that it was, and perhaps still is, believed by many that Nishino Buntaro's intercession with heaven will ensure the fulfilment of any desire offered up to the gods through him. The thatched gate-way above- mentioned is the principal opening in a second fence called the Ara-gaM, composed of cryptomeria trunks alternately long and short, placed at intervals of about 2| ft., with two horizontal railings, one running along the top, the other along the centre. The distance of this fence from the outer enclosure varies from 10 ft. to 36 ft. on different sides of the square. Besides the torii on the S., there are three others, one on each side, corresponding to the other three main entrances of the boarded enclosure. These are un- usual in style, being closed with solid gates, an arrangement rarely seen in Shinto temples. Inside the thatched gate-way is a shed 40 ft. by 20 ft. called the Shijo-den, a restoration of one of three buildings anciently called Naorai-dono, which were set apart for the entertainment of the envoys sent by the Mikado, after the celebration of the Kannami Matsuri, or " Festival of Divine Tasting " (see p. 3). Just inside a small torii are the ishi-tsubo, — spaces marked out by larger stones, r. for the Mikado's envoy, 1. for the priests of the temple. At a dis- tance of 33 yds. from the first thatched gate-way is a second, which gives access to a third court, surrounded by a palisade called the Tama-gaki f formed of planks about 8 ft. high, placed close together. Just within this court is a small wooden gate-way, immediately be- yond which is a thatched gate-way, forming the entrance into the cen- tral enclosure. This enclosure is surrounded by a wooden palisade called Mizu-gaki, and is almost a perfect square, being 134 ft. by 131 ft. At the back of it is the Shoden or chapel, on the r. and 1. of the entrance to which are the treasuries (Jwden). The Geku Temple. FutamL 255 The chapel is 34 ft. in length by 19 ft. in width. Its floor, raised ■about 6 ft. from the ground, is supported on wooden posts planted in the earth. A balcony 3 ft. wide, which is approached by a flight of nine steps 15 ft. in width, runs right round the building, and car- ries a low balustrade, the tops of whose posts are cut into the shape called hoshu no tama, which, strangely enough, is a Buddhist ornament, the so-called " Precious Jewel of Omnipotence." The steps, balustrade, and doors are profusely overlaid with brass plates; and the external ridge-pole, cross-trees, and projecting rafters are also adorned with the same metal. A covered way leads from the inner gate up to the steps of the chapel. The two treasuries are raised on short legs or stands, after the fashion of the store-houses of the Loochooans. 'They are said to contain precious silken stuffs, raw silk presented by the province of Mikawa, and trap- pings for the sacred horses. Be- tween the Ita-gaki and the Ara- gaJci stands the Heiliaku-den, in- tended to contain the offerings called gohei. Another building in the enclosure is the Mike-den, where the water and the food offered up to the gods of both the Geku and Naiku are daily set forth, in winter at 9 a.m. and 4 p.m., in summer at 8 a.m. and 3 p.m. Up to A.D. 729, the food offerings for the Naiku, having first been prepared at the Geku, were conveyed to the former temple, there to "be set out. In that year, us this ceremony was being performed, the offerings were unwittingly carried past some polluting object which happen- ed to be in the road. The consequence was that the Mikado fell sick, and the diviners attributed his sickness to the auger of the Sun-Goddess. Since that time the offerings for both temples have been set out only at the Geku. The offerings made to each of the principal deities consist of four cups of water, sixteen saucers of rice, and four of salt, besides fish, birds, fruits, seaweed, and vegetables. The offerings to each lesser deity are the same, except that only hal the quantity of fruit is provided. The chief festivals are the " Pray- ing for Harvest " (Kinen-sai), 4th February ; " Presentation of Cloth- ing" (Onzo-sai), 17th April; " Monthly Festival" (Tsuki-nami no matsuri), 15th June; " Divine Tasting " (Kan-name), 15th and 16th October ; " Harvest festival " (Shinzo-sai), 23rd November. Be- sides these, a " Great Purification " (O-barai), is performed once every month, and also before each of the above-named grand festivals. The above dates are those of the celebra- tion at the Naiku. The ceremonies are repeated at the Geku on the following day, at the Izogu on the third day, and at the Takihara Gu on the fourth; but the Imperial envoy who represents the Mikado at the two former shrines, does not visit the two latter. On the side of a low hill to the S. of the chief temple buildings, stand two much smaller shrines. That to the 1. is known as Ara-matsuri, that to the r. as Ame-no-miya. Higher up the same hill is the Taka-no- nviya. After thus seeing as much as is permitted to be seen of the Geku, we re-enter our jinrikishas and speed along an excellent level road to Futami, a distance of 2 ri 10 cho. Several villages are passed, of which Kawasaki and Kurose are the lar- gest, and an unusually long bridge called the Shio-ai no Hashi, span- ning the estuary of the Isuzu-gawa. There are constant delightful views of a mountain range to the r., of which Asama-yama is the most conspicuous summit. Futami (Inn, Kaisui-ro, with sea- bathing) is considered by the Japa- nese to be one of the most pictures- que places on their coast, and few art motives are more popular than the Myoto-seki, or "Wife and Hus- band Rocks," — two rocks close to the shore, tied together by a straw rope. 256 Route 32* — The Shrines of he. In this case the straw rope (skime) pro- bably symbolises conjugal union. There is, however, a legend to the effect that the god Susa-no-o, in return for hospitality received, instructed a poor villager of this place how to protect his house from future visitations of the Plague-God by fastening such a rope across the entrance. A tiny shrine called Somin Shozai no Yashiro com- memorates the legend. The view of islets and bays stretching away eastwards is certain- ly very pretty, even distant Fuji being occasionally visible ; and the me- tamorphic slate rocks ( chlorite schist) are such as Japanese esthetes prize highly for their gardens. It may nevertheless be doubted whe- ther Europeans would single out Futami for particular praise from among the countless lovely scenes in Japan, especially in a neighbour- hood boasting the glorious views from Hiyori-yama and Asama-yama. The building beyond the Futami inn is the Hinjitsu-ktvan, erected in 1886 for the Empress Dowager who is a great traveller. The way from Futa- mi to Toba is rather hilly, but pretty, especially near the Ike-no-ura, a many-branched inlet of the sea. Toba (Inn, Osaka-ya) is a sleepy little town, enlivened only by the visits of coasting steamers ; and the private Dock}^ard (Tekkosho), es- tablished there some years ago, has not proved a success. But the top of Hiyori-yama, only 3 cho from the inn, affords a view which is a perfect dream of beauty. It includes Fuji, Haku-san, and most of the moun- tains mentioned on the next page in the list of those visible from Asama- yama. But its special loveliness is the foreground, — a labyrinth of islets and peninsulas and green hills, and the blue sea studded with the white sails of junks, while other junks lie at anchor in Toba harbour. The hill rising conspicuously in the middle of the town was the site of the castle of the former Daimyo, Inagaki Shinano-no-Kami. [From Toba, roads lead round and across the Province of Shima into Kishu. Steamers also call in at Matoya and Hamajima on their way west- wards. Shima resembles Kishu in its general features, but is less well-worth visiting. The reader is accordingly referred to Rbe. 43. The little province of Shima has been celebrated from the earliest antiquity for its female divers (a ma), pictures of whom — bare to the waist and with a red nether garment — may often be seen. They fish up awabi (sea-ears) and tengusa, a kind of sea-weed (Gelidium corneinn) which is used to make a delicious jelly called toJcoro-ten. So hardy are they, that they will go on diving even when on the eve of childbirth ; but they age quickly and become repulsively ugly, with coarse tanned skins and hair that turns reddish from constant wetting, and is apt to fall off in patches. The women of Shima not only dive ; they also do most of the field work. In fact they support their fathers, brothers, and hus- bands, who loll about, smoke, play chess, and are, in a word, the weaker vessels. Few girls get married who are not expert divers, nor do they marry very early in most cases, being too valuable to their parents as bread-winners. Even the wife of a man in easy circumstances— a village elder, for instance— is forced by public opinion to gain her liveli- hood aquatically. The best places at which to see the diving are 7 dshi- mura, a vill. on one of the large islands opposite Toba, Kamijima, an island beyond Toshijima, and Kolca near Mato-ya.] No pedestrian, even if he have seen the view from Hiyori-yama, should miss that from Asama-yama. This name, which is written with the characters gj ^g, has nothing to do with the Asama of Shinshu, which is written The way back from Toba and Futa- mi skirbs its base ; and as jinriki- shas can be availed of to a spot within 22 cho of the top, the best plan is to take them so far and either return again the same way, or, better still, send then round to wait at the Naiku Temple, which latter plan gives one a capital 4 or 5 m. walk down the gradual incline of the other slope of the Route 33. — West Coast from Tswruga to Naoetsu. 257 mountain. The celebrated view is obtained from a spot 1,300 ft. above the sea, where there is a tea-house called Tbfu-ya. A curious fact is that one of the widest mountain panoramas in Japan is obtained in spite of the circumstance that barely half the horizon lies open to view. Below in the foreground is Owari Ba} 7 , looking like a lake, while in the distance beyond it stretches a long series of mountains, — Futago- yama on the Hakone pass, Fuji, Yatsu-ga-take, Akiha-san, the vol- cano of Asama, Koma-ga-take, Tateyama in Etchu, Ontake, Nori- kura in Hida, Haku-san, Aburazaka in Echizen, Ibuki-yama in Omi, Tado-san, Mitsugo-yama, Suzuka- yama, and Nunobiki-yama on the W. frontier of Ise. [Though one must return to the T6fu-ya tea-house in order to get home, it is worth walking on 10 cho to the Ohu-no-in of this holy mountain for the curious view which it affords of the green-blue jumble of den- sely wooded hills that form the province of Shima and Eastern Kishu. On the way one passes several little £>uddhist shrines, and — piquant contrast ! — the head-quarters of a favourite old quack medicine, the Mother Seigel of Japan. Mankintan — for so this medicament styles it- self — brings thousands of dollars yearly into the pockets of the people of Yamada, where there are scores of agencies for its sale. The Oku-no-in, which is dedicated to Kokuzo Bosatsu, was formerly a gem, but is now much decayed.] The views on the way down Asama-yama are delightful. At length one plunges into a sort of cauldron, where stand the vill. of Uji and the Naikii Temple, em- bosomed in an antique grove of cryptomerias, camphor-trees, and other magnificent timber which in itself is worth coming out to see. The camphor-trees have railings round them to prevent people from peeling off the bark and making charms of it. The efficacy of these charms is specially be- lieved in by sailors, who throw them into the sea to calm the waves. After passing the second torii, one sees r. the little River Isuzu, where the pilgrims purify themselves be- fore worship by washing their hands and mouth. Being dedicated to the Sun-Goddess Ama-terasu, the Naiku is of even superior sanctity to the Geku, and is constructed on a somewhat larger scale. But as the arrangement of the temple grounds and enclosed buildings closely re- sembles that of the Geku already described in detail, no particulars will be needed except the measure- ments. The outer enclosure is 195 ft. in front, 202 ft. at the back, and 369 ft. at the side. The innermost en- closure (Mizu-gaki) measures 149 ft. in front, 150 ft. at the back, and 144 ft. on each side. The bare open space adjoining the temple is the alternative site, which will be used to build on in the year 1909, when the present buildings are pulled down. ROUTE 33. The West Coast from Tsuruga to Naoetsu. 1. itineraries : maibara-tsuruga branch railway, tsuruga to fushiki, fushiki to naoetsu. 2. description : tsuruga, fu- kui, kanazawa, fushiki, [nanao in noto,] toyama. I. — Itineraries. A four or five days' trip, enabling the traveller to see something of the coast of the provinces of Echi- zen, Kaga, and Etchu on the Sea of Japan, is that from Kyoto to Tsuruga by the Tokaido and Mai- bara-Tsuruga Railways, through the historic old city of Kanazawa 258 Route 33. — West Coast from Tsuruga to Naoetsu, in Kaga to the port of Fushiki in Etchu, whence Naoetsu, the present terminus of the Karuizawa-Naoetsu Railway, can be reached by steamer in a night. The entire distance between Tsuruga and Fushiki may be accomplished in jinrikishas, Maibaea-Tsueuga Beanch Ry. Names § C 'C .-i ^ ks of Stations. Remarks. 45m. 49* MATBARA See Route 34. See Route 40. Nagahama 56} Takatsuki. 57i inokuchi. 59 iCinomoto. 61f NakanogS. 64f Yanagase. 71 Hikicla. m Tsuruga. 76 KANA-GA-SAKI (Pier Station). Itineeaey feom Tsueuga to Fushiki. TSURUGA to :— Ri. Clio. M. Daira 6 4 15 Takefn 4 35 12J FUKUI 5 4 12* Maruoka 3 24 9 Daishoji.. 5 7 12§ Komatsu 5 2 12J Matsuto ... b 3 12| KANAZAWA .... 3 12 8 Tsubata 3 18 8£ Imaisurugi 3 26 9 Takaoka 4 3 10 FUSHIKI.. 1 35 4f Total ; 51 29 126f The best plan in fine weather is to abandon the land for the sea during a portion of this journey, by taking steamer from Tsuruga to Sa- kai for Fukui, a run of 4 hrs. ; or to Kauaiwa for Kanazavva. In the event of the steamer between Fushiki and Naoetsu not being available, the following is the itinerary by road,— mostly dull travelling. FUSHIKI to: — Ri. Cho. M. Higashi Iwase 3 5 7f Namerikawa 3 6 7f Uotsu 2 8 5J Tomari 7 29 19 Itoigawa 9 6 22J Nagahama 9 8 22£ NAOETSU 2 18 6 Total 37 8 90f 2. — Desceiption. The railway journey between Kyoto and Maibara is described in Route 34 ; and the shores of Lake Biwa, as far as the next station, Nagahama, in Route 40. At N;ig';i liama (Inn, Masu-ya at station), the railway leaves the lake and the scenery becomes tame. From Yanagase onward to Hikida, the line runs in narrow valleys between wooded hills and througrf several tunnels ; thence through cultivated country down to the coast of the Sea of Japan. Tsuruga. (Inn, Kome-shichi-ya) has two stations, one called Tsuru- ga, another, 5 min. further on, called Kuiin-ga-saki, or the Pier Sta- tion. The latter {Inns, Daikoku-ya, Kome-shichi-ya) should be prefer- red, as the steamer-office, bank, and other useful institutions are in its vicinity. Tsuruga has the best harbour on the Sea of Japan, and is in constant steam communication with the lesser ports up and down the coast. The town itself is some- what shut in ; but a charming view of land and sea may be obtained by climbing a small hill near the rail- way station called Atago-yama, beyond which again is the site of the castle of the celebrated warrior Yoshisada. The long promontory closing in the bay on the W. side, and sheltering it from those N. W. blasts that render the winter on this coast so terrible, is called Tatcishi-zaki. On its extremity stands a lighthouse — not, however, visible from the town. The stretch Tsuriiga. FukuL Kanazawa, 259 of laud to the N. E., which looks like a promontory as seen from Tsuruga, is called Kome-no-ura. Baira (fair accommodation at the house of Kinoshita Kichiemon) is a regular halting place. Here the road strikes inland. Takefu [Inn, Kome-ya) manu- factures marbled paper {sumi- nagashi), cotton, silk, and hard- ware. One of the most striking objects in the vicinity is the moun- tain of Hina-ga-take. Fukssi (Inn, Nawa-ya; restt. Tsu- kimi-ro), formerly the capital of the Daimyos of Echizen, still possesses the picturesque remains of the castle which was their seat, and a Hong wan ji temple with a beautiful view toward the hills. It is noted for the manufacture of habutai, paper, and yuton, — a thick oil-paper used to cover the mats in summer. Magani, a species of crab, is caught all along the coast, and tinned for export. To foreigners, Fukui will be further of interest as having been the residence, from 1871 to 1872, of the author of the Mikado's Empire, Rev. Wm. E. G-riftis, to whose pages the reader is referred for a graphic and touching account of the abdi- cation of the Daimyo on the 1st October, 1871, when the decree abolishing feudalism had been issued. Sakai, also called Miknni {Inn, Morota), the port of Fukui, stands at the confluence of the rivers Hino, Asuwa, and Kuzuryu, and has steam communication with the other ports on the coast. Daislioji {Inns, Daikoku-ya, Ka- ruhana) was oue of the places to which the Christians of the Naga- saki district were exiled during the last persecution of 1867-1S73. Komatsu {Inn, Shimotoku) was formerly a castle-town belonging to the Daimyo of Kaga, Not far from Komatsu is the vill. of Yama- shiro with hot springs. It also provides most of the clay for the potters of Terai and Kanazawa. Matsuto is noted as the birth- place of the poetess Kaga-no-Chiyo. Travellers will remark the great industry and economy practised in the agriculture of this district, even the ridges between the rice-fields being sown with beans or barley. Kanazawa (Inns, Ayabe, Asada, Takabatake; European food at a restt. in the public garden) was the seat of the lords of the province of Kaga, the richest of all the Dai- myos. It is now the capital of the prefecture of Ishikawa, which in- cludes the provinces of Kaga, Noto, and Etchu. It is both clean and picturesque, and the hills above it command a fine prospect. The castle is now used as the head- quarters of a military division. To the r. of the castle is the Public Garden called by the literati the " Six-fold Garden," because possess- ing six excellencies, viz. size, pleasing appearance, labour bestowed upon it, an air of antiquity, running water, and a charming view. The grounds contain an Industrial Museum (Kioangyd Hakubutsu- kwan), and a fine monument erected to the memory of the soldiers who fell fighting in the Satsuma rebellion. The monument, which was erected in 1880, consists of a pile of large stones on which stands a handsome bronze figure of Yamato-take, over 18 ft. high. At Kanazawa the celebrated Kutani porcelain may be procured in abundance. A visit should be paid to the Potteries of Gankwa-do near the Public Garden, where the processes of manufactur- ing and painting the porcelain can be inspected. Bronzes inlaid with gold and silver (zogan), and fans are also produced. A pleasant bath- ing resort near Kanazawa is Naka- yama Onsen, with good inns. Imaisuriigi {Inn, Tokko-ya) is a flourishing place. Takaoka {Inns, Akai-ya, Etchti- ya) stretching for a mile or more along the road in a cotton-weav- ing and silkworm-breeding district, is noted for its dyes and hard- ware. Fuslliki {Inns by Okada, Ueda), having been made one of the * ' Special 260 Route S3. — West Coast from Tsuruga to Naoetsu. Open Ports," has lately risen into prominence, but is unattractive. [An excursion may be made from Fushiki to Nanao, the capital of the province of Noto. This province, the Jutland of Japan, obtains its name from the word nottu, which means "penin- sula" in the language of the former Aino aborigines. Itinerary. FUSHIKI to:— Ri. Clio. M. Himi 2 28 6f Ninomiya 3 33 9 J NANAO 2 17 6^ Total 9 6 22i Though the road is ostensibly meant for jinrikisha traffic, the heavy nature of the soil and a pass called the Arayama-toge, which has to be encountered on the way, generally necessitate walking as far as Ninomiya. Fair accommodation at Himi. Ranao (Inn, Ogome-ya) is a considerable town situated on the shores of a miniature inland sea, across which toy steamers ply. No mail steamers call in here, unless it be for shelter during a gale. The chief holiday resort in the neighbourhood is the mineral spring of Wakura, 6 rn. distant ; but it, and in- deed the province of Noto gene- rally — low, sandy, and poor in historic associations — are little calculated to interest the foreign visitor. Mr. Percival Lowell, the well-known traveller and author of Noto: An Unexplored Corner of Japan, after having divided all places into two sorts, namely, those worth seeing but already seen, and those not yet seen but not worth seeing, says,. ''Wakura struck me as falling into the latter halves of both categories."] The best halting-places between Fushiki and Naoetsu are TJotsu (Inn, Hakata-ya), and Itoigawa (Inn, Hayakawa). The last day of the journey is also the most pic- turesque, as the road leads for several miles along bold cliffs by the shore, commanding a glorious view of the Sea of Japan. For Naoetsu see p. 211. Travel- lers desirous of visiting Toyama (Inns, *Ki-ya, Taisei- kaku, European food), capital of the prefecture of the same name and of the province of Etchu, can do so by taking a small boat from Fushiki to Higashi-Iivase (Inn, Kushi-ya), a small port at the mouth of the Jinzu-gawa, in about 3 hrs., whence to Toyama is 2 ri 2 cho by jinriki- sha. Toyama can also be reached more directly from Takaoka by jin- rikisha all the way, 5 ri 29 did. Toyama was formerly the castle-town of Matsudaira Shigematsu, a cadet of the Maeda family, of which the Daimyo of Kaga was the head. The castle is now utilised as a school. In spite of its out-of- the-way situation, Toyama enjoys the dis- tinction of having, compared with other provinces of Japan, the least number of illiterates. But a large proportion of the inhabitants are wall-eyed. The principal trade of the place consists in medicines and leather. The snow-capped summit of Ha- kusan forms a striking object in the landscape, Toyama is a good starting point for those who, ap- proaching them from this side, wish to scale the peaks of Etchu and Hida, described in Route 30. SECTION III. ROUTES CONNECTING TOKYO AND KYOTO. (Routes 34 — 36. Route 34.— The Tdlmido. 268 ROUTE 34. The Tokaido by Rail from Tokyo to Kyoto and Kobe. mio-no-matsubara. from okitsu to shizuoka via temples of kuno-zan. from kakegawa to akiha. waterfall of yoro. Miles, 31 6 10J m 16* 18 20J 26. 32| 40| 43 49 55 59 64 71 80 101 Names of Stations. TOKYO (Shim bashi). Shinagawa Omori Kawasaki Tsururni Kanagawa YOKOHAMA. Hodogaya. Totsu'ka. OFUNA Jet. . . Fujisawa. Hiratsuka Oiso. Kozu. Matsuda. Yamakita. Oyama. Gotemba . . . isano. Numazu. Suzukawa Iwabuchi Beniarks. 104 Kambara. 110 Okitsu . 114 120 128 132 137 140 146 Ejiri. SHIZUOKA. Yaizu. Fujieda. Shimada. Kanaya. Hori-no-uclii. L See Route 3. Change for Kamakura & Yokosuka. Alight for. as- cent of Oya- . ma (p. 84).' Alight for Miyanoshit; , Hakone, and Atami. \ Alight for as- i cent of Fuji, Travellers from the west alight for Fuji'. At Iwa- buchi alight for Kami-ide waterfalls (p. 147) and Mi \ nobu (p. 219), ) Excursion to I Kuno-zan. 150 Kakegawa ("Alight for. (. Akiha. 156 Fukuroi. -Travellers down rapids 161 Nakaizumi 1 of Tenryu j & bound E., 1 enter train here. f Tenryu tra- 16S HAMAMATSU. 3 vellers for 1 the W. enter V. train here. 174 Maizaka. 180 Washizu. 190 Toyohashi. 196 Goyu. 201 Kamagori. 210 Okazaki. 215| An jo. 220 Kariya. /"Change for 223 Obu 3 Kamesaki, j Handa, and v. Take toy o. 228 Otaka. 231 Atsuta ("Change for I Ise. 235 NAGOYA. 240 Kiyosu. 246 Ichinomiya. 249 Kisogawa. 254 G-IFU. 263 268 271 Ogaki. Tarui (Alight for \ Yoro. Seki-ga-hara. 278 Nagaoka. (Change for ! Naaahama (. & Tsuruga. 284 MAIBARA Jet. ess Hikone. 297 Notogawa. 302 Hachiman. 308 Yasu. 1 Kwansei Rail- ! way, see p. 313 KUSATSU Jet. ( 247. 319 Baba (OTSU). 321 Otani. 324| Yamashina. 327±- Inari. 329 KYOTO. 333 Mukomachi. 337 1- Yamazaki. 342| Takatsuki. 346i Ibaraki. 351 Suita. 359 OSAKA (Alight for J N a r a an d I Sakai. 361 Kanzaki. 365 N ishinomiya. 370 Suiniyoshi. 375 Sannomiya J See caution ) on p. 277. 376 KOBE. 204 Bo ute 34. — The Tokaido. The word Tokaido signifies "Eastern Sea Road." The name was given to this road at an early date on account of its running along: the sea-shore in an easterly direc- tion from Kyoto, which, being the old historic capital, was naturally regarded as the starting-point. From the 17th century onwards, the Tokaido was tra- versed twice yearly by Daimyos coming with gorgeous retinues to pay their re- spects to the Shogun at Yedo ; and all the chief towns, here as on the other great highways of the Empire, were provided with honjin — that is, specially fine tea- houses — for their lordships to sleep at. The greater portion of the beautiful avenue of pine-trees with which the road was lined still exists, and can be seen occasionally from the windows of the rail way carriage. The road itself is now comparatively deserted. "But what a scene it used to present ! How crowded with pedestrians ; with norimons (the palanquins of the upper crust), a.nd attendants; with can- goes (the modest bamboo conveyance of the humble classes) ; with pack-horses, conveying merchandise of all kinds to and from the capital or to the busy towns and villages along the route : with the trains of daimyos or of lesser gentry en- titled to travel with a retinue ; and with the commonalty, men, women and child- ren, on foot, all with their dresses turned up for facility of movement, and for the most part taking the journey pretty easily ; frequently stopping at the num- berless tea-houses or resting sheds by the way, and refreshing themselves with the simple little cup of weak green tea, and a cheery chat with whomsoever might stop like themselves to rest. It used to seem that distance was no consideration with, them. They could go on all day, and day after day, if only they were allowed (which they generally were) to take their own time and pace. The value of time never entered into their thoughts. . , . The numerous trains of armed men pass- ing in both directions were the most strik- ing feature of the scene. Never could one go out of one's house in any direction, but these two-sworded men were met with ; but on the Tokaido, and in the streets of Yedo, they appeared to be more numerous than the common people ; and it must be understood that at this time of which T am speaking, the crowds on por- tions of the road and in all the principal thoroughf a res of the capital , were as great as in the most crowded thoroughfares of London. It took one forcibly back to the feudal times in Europe, when no noble or landed proprietor thought of going abroad unattended by his armed dependants. Added to this, there was a certain air of antiquity that imparted its charm to the scene. The old Dutch writers described the road long ago, and it was even in their day, precisely as it was in ours. A good, well macadamised, causeway, (except that the hard stratum was of pebbles, not of broken stones), passing through numerous populous villages, only divided from each other by short intervals, where fine old trees on both sides of the road were the sole division between the road and the paddy fields. The etiquette of the road was well and rigidly defined. When the trains of two princes met, it was incum- bent on the lesser of them — (measured by his income as recognised by the Govern- ment, and published in the official list), to dismount from his norimon, if he hap- pened to be riding in one, and draw with his followers to the side of the road whilst the other passed. Whenever it was possible, therefore, such meetings were avoided."* The railway was begun in 1872 and finished in 1889. It reduces to 17 hrs. the journey from Tokyo to E^oto, which formerly was an affair of 12 or 13 days on foot. Travellers with time on hand are advised to break the journey at Kdzu, in order to visit Miyanoshita and Hakone ; at Okitsu, in order to visit Kuno-zan on the way between that station and Shizuoka ; at Shiztc- oka itself, and at Nagoya. Of these places, three, viz. Miyanoshita, Shizuoka, and Nagoya, have hotels in foreign style. Those who are hurried may console themselves for missing these interesting places by the knowledge that the scenery through which they are to pass of- fers many charms, including superb views of Fuji from both the land and the sea side. The least in- teresting portion of the line is that between Shizuoka and Nagoya, a six hours' run which may with little disadvantage be performed after dark, most of it passing through flat country devoted to the cultivation of * rice. The first hour of the journey — that between Tokyo and Yokohama — having been already described in Route 3, calls for no further remark. The train runs into Yoko- hama station to pick up passengers for the West, and runs out again for a few min. over the same ground, but soon diverges to the 1. At Ofmia Junction, a short branch * This description is quoted from Black's Young Japan, Vol. I. p. 163, et seq. From Fujisaiva to Namazu. 265 line takes travellers to the famous Daibutsu at Kamakura (see pp. 77-9). Fnjisawa (Inns, Inage-ya and Wakamatsu-ya at station) is no bed for its Buddhist temple of Yugyo- dera, in the miraculous healing powers of whose abbots extraordi- nary faith is placed by the lower orders of the surrounding country- side. Unfortunately, a fire de- stroyed the greater portion of the buildings in December, 1880. Should the intention of restoring them to their original splendour be carried out, they will well merit a visit. The site lies some 8 did from the railway station. After passing Fujisawa, the Hakone range, behind which towers the Cone of Fuji, begins to come in sight r. Soon afterwards the line crosses the broad stony bed of the Eiver Banyu, which rises in Lake Yama- naka on the N.E. flank of Fuji. Oiso is a favourite bathing resort ; see p. 85. At Kozii {Inn, Kozu-kwan), the line turns inland up the valley of the Sakawa-gawa, in order to avoid the Hakone mountains which effectually bar the way to all but foot-pass- engers. The scenery now becomes mountainous, with to the 1. the chief peaks of the Hakone range — Fu- tago-yama (the "Twin Mountain," so-called from its double rounded summit), Myojin-ga-take, Kammuri- ga-take, and Kintoki-zan (horn- shaped). An extra engine is put on at Yamakita to help the train up to Gotemba, the highest point on the line — 1,500 ft. above sea level. Between Yamakita and Oyama (not to be mistaken for _the mountain Oyama, with a long O), the scenery becomes wildly picturesque, and there is a rapid succession of tunnels and bridges, testifying to the en- gineering difficulties that had to be conquered. At Gotemba (Inns, Matsu-ya and Fuji-ya at station; the vill. is 12 did distant), the passenger finds himself in the broad and fertile plain surrounding Fuji's base, a plain whose soil indeed has been formed by the outpourings of the great mountain during countless ages. Nothing here interrupts the view of the volcano from base to summit. The long-ridged wooded mountain immediately to the 1. of Fuji is Ashitaka. The range to the spectator's 1. from the carriage window is the Hakone range, the lowest point of which seen from here is the Otome-toge leading over to Miyanoshita. Gotemba derives its name from having been the seat of the hunting lodge of the great Shogun Yoritomo, when he came from his capital at Kamakura to hunt in the neighbourhood of Fuji. The gardens around Gotemba are gay with red camellia blossoms in spring. The Mitsumata (Edgeworth- ia papyrifera) is also to be seen in abundance. . At SilMO, there is a semi-European Hotel close to the waterfalls (Sano no taki), 12 dto from the station by jinrikisha. The water forming these fine falls comes from Lake Hakone, via the tunnel mentioned on p. 132. Keigashima, 17 did beyond the falls, is another picturesque spot, remarkable for its curious rocks and possessing a deserted shrine suitable for a picnic. One still has Fuji and Ashi- taka to the r., the other mountains from r. to 1. being Amagi-san in Izu, | Yahazu-yama (a small peak), Higa- ne-san on the other side of which lies Atami, the Hakone range, and in front, isolated as if let drop independently into the plain, Kano- I ki-yama. The railway turns West, 1 and rejoins the old Tokaido at Nuinazu {Inn, Moto-doiya). ! There is much marshy ground in ! this neighbourhood, whence pro- j bably the name of the place {numa =" marsh"). Most persons, rather ; than stay in Numazu itself, prefer i to go on 25 min. by jinrikisha to the vill. of Usliibnsc, on a beautiful landlocked bay which offers excel- lent sea-bathing. The Sekko Roku- 266 Route 34. — The Tokaido. dayu. inn, with detached apartments ensuring privacy, is recommended, as also the delightful walk along the coast to Enoara on the road to Shuzenji in Izu. It is about Suzukawa (Inn, K6shu-ya) that the nearest and most perfect view of Fuji is obtained. Nowhere else does the " Peerless Mountain " so ab- solutely dominate its surroundings. The beauty of the stretch of shore from here to the mouth of the Fujikawa, called Tago-no-ara, has been sung by a hundred Japa- nese poets. The Fujikawa is noted for its rapids (see p. 221). From Iwabuchi {Inn, *Tani-ya at sta- tion) to Okitsu is very beautiful, the space between the sea and a range of hills to the r. becoming so narrow as barely to leave room for the rail- way to skirt the shore. In the neigh- bourhood of Kambara, large fields of sugar- cane will be observed. The cultivation of the small but hardy Chinese variety of the sugar-cane (Saccha- rum siiiense) is carried on with fair success in the warmer provinces of Japan, such as Mikawa, Owari, Kishu, Southern Shiko- ku, and Satsuma. Being unable to with- stand the frosts of winter, it is planted out in March or April, and harvested not later than November. The cane which is used for planting is buried in a dry place to preserve it from the cold. In spring it is cut into pieces, which are planted out in the usual way. Okitsu (Inns, *Kaisui-ro, Mina- kuchi-ya ; the latter is semi-foreign, the former has arrangements for sea-bathing) has a lovely view of the Bay of Suruga, the large moun- tainous peninsula of Izu, and to the r. the point of land called Mio- no-Matsubara, celebrated alike in poetry and art. It is covered with pine-trees, is low and sandy, and hence more pleasant to look at than to walk on. Still further to the r. lie the Kuno-zan hills, with the white little sea-port town of Shimizu nestling at their base. At Mio-no-Matsubara is laid the scene of Ha-yoromo, or " The Robe of Feathers," one of the prettiest and most fanciful of the Japanese Lyric Dramas (A T 6 no Utai). A fisherman landing on this strand finds a robe of feathers hanging to a pine- tree, and is about to carry it off as treasure trove, when a beautiful fairy suddenly appears and implores him to give it back to her, for that it is hers, and without it she cannot fly home to the Moon, where she is one of the attendants on the thirty monarchs who rule that sphere. At first the fisherman refuses to grant her re- quest. He only does so when, after many tears and agonies of despair, she promises to dance for him one of the dances known only to the immortals. Draped in her feathery robe, she dances beneath the pine-trees on the beach, while celestial music and an unearthly fragrance fill the air. At last her wings are caught by the breeze, and she soars heavenward, past Mount Ashitaka, past Fuji, till she is lost to view. There is still a small shrine on Mio-no-Matsubara dedicated to this fairy, where a relic of her robe is shown. The Temple of Seikenji or Kiyomi- clera at Okitsu, belonging to the Zen sect of Buddhists, merits a visit, partly for the sake of the view, partly for the temple itself and the temple grounds, which even the railway, though it cuts through them, has not entirely spoilt. The very plain altar in the small chapel near the Hondo — a large hall paved with tiles — con- tains funeral tablets of all the Shoguns of the Tokugawa dynasty. In a side temple are forty brilliant- ly coloured figures, three-fourths life-size, of Bakan — old, but restor- ed in 1881. They were formerly kept in a tea-house in the town, which became a favourite resort, and brought in a considerable in- come to the priests. This, however, moved the townspeople to jealous} 7 and dissatisfaction, for which reason the images were removed to their present site where money can no longer be made out of them. In the grounds are 300 (formerly 500) stone images of Bakan. The creeping plum-trees (gioaryu-bai) in front of the temple are said to have been planted by Ieyasu's own hand. Besides the temple proper, a suite of rooms is shown, affording an example of the best style of Japanese domestic architecture. Built in 1865 for the use of the Shogun Iemochi, they have of late Kuno-zan. 267 been sometimes occupied by His Im- perial Highness, the Crown Prince. [A detour of 7 or 8hrs. to Knno- zan will afford the traveller a real multum in parvo,— splen- did views, superb temples, nearer acquaintance with Japa- nese town and country life off the beaten track. — The plan is to leave Yokohama by the first train, alight at Okitsu, and thence go by jinrikisha with two men, rejoining the railway at Shizuoka, where sleep. Sei- kenji, described above, is first visited ; thence through Ejiri (Inn, Kyo-ya), one of those smaller Tokaido towns which the railway has paralysed, and Shimizu, a neat bustling sea- port town ; and then strikes in- land to Tesshuji, a ruined temple on a low hill called Fudaraku-san, 4 did in height. Yamaoka Tetsutaro, writing- master to the present Mikado, collected funds for the restora- tion of this place ; but the money was squandered after his death, and the temple is no- thing, but the view simply magnificent, recalling a Claude Lorraine. At the beholder's feet stretches a green carpet of rice-fields, with the town of Shimizu and the curious square enclosures in the adjacent sea, used as fish-preserves to supply the needs of the inhabitants in stormy weather. The two pro- montories to the 1. are the Satta-toge and the point near Kambara, beyond which come Fuji, Ashitaka, and the Hakone range. The large peninsula of Izu extends the whole way round from 1. to r., like a gigantic scythe, forming the Gulf of Suruga, while much closer and smaller, making a bay within a bay, stretches the pine-clad promontory of Mio- no-Matsubara, which is from here seen to divide at the tip into three points like claws. Close to Tesshuji is another temple called Ryugeji, noted in the vicinity for its sotetsu (Cycas revoluta) and prickly pears — the latter a great rarity in Japan ; but the view, though good, is not comparable to that from Tesshuji. The way now leads back to the sea and along the sandy shore to the hamlet of Nekoya [Inn, Fukushima-ya) at the foot of Kuno-zan, one of a range of hills only some 500 ft. high, but fortress-like in steepness. Here was the first burial-place of the great Shogun Ieyasu, and the shrines here erected in his honour were the originals of which those at Nikko are but a more elaborate development. Travellers who are unable to go to Nikko, can therefore obtain an idea of what the Nikko temples are like by visit- ing Kuno-zan. According to some, leyasu's body still lies here, only a single hair or other minute portion having been transported to Nikko. The ascent to the temples is by a steep zigzag path cut in the living rock. A guide must be applied for at the shamusho, or temple office, near the top on the 1. The view over the sea from this temple office is glorious, but a still better one is obtained from a pine-tree called the Mono-mi no matsu. The headlands seen hence are T6me-no-saki, Wada no-misaki, and Omae-zalri. The temples, though "purified" to a certain extent by the pro- Shin to party 25 years ago, retain their Buddhist ornamentation. The wooden effigy of a sacred horse 1. is by Hidari Jingoro. Up a flight of steps hence, we come r. to the drum- tower, and 1. to the side of the five-storied pagoda removed by the "purifiers" as savouring too much of Bud- 268 Route 34. — The Tokaido. dhism. Above these again are r., the kagura stage, the trea- sure-house or "godown," and a building formerly dedicated to the Buddhist god Yakushi, and now to the Shinto god Oyama- gui-no-Mikoto ; while 1. is the building where the sacred offer- ings are prepared. The oratory proper is painted red on the outside, black and gold withiu. Round the interior, hang pic- tures of the Thirty^-six Poetical Geniuses, and there is an elabo- rate bordering of phoenixes and chrysanthemums. A final flight of steps behind the oratory leads up to the stone tomb, which is an octagonal monolith. The annual festival at Kuno-zan is held on the 17th April. Services are also celebrated on the 17th of the other months. The tem- ple treasures are exposed to view in October, when the an- nual airing (mushi-boshi) takes place. On leaving Kuno-zan, the road first follows the sea- shore and then turns inland, reaching Shizuoka in about 1 hr.] Between Okitsu and Ejiri (Inn, Kyd-ya), there is a view of Mio-no-Matsubara. After leaving Ejiri, the line turns inland to avoid the Kuno-zan hills. Shizuoka (Hotels, *Daito-kwan, foreign style ; Kiyo-kwan), formerly called Sumpu, is the capital of the prefecture of the same name and of the province of Suruga. It is a clean, airy, flourishing city, noted for its manufactures of cheap lacquer ware, delicate basket-work in curious and beautiful shapes, and fine bam- boo plaiting used to cover egg-shell porcelain cnps which are brought from the province of Mino. The tea produced at Ashikubo, a vill. 2 ri distant, ranks second only to that of Uji. Historically, Shizuoka is remarkable chiefly as the place where Ieyasu chose to .spend the evening of his life in learned leisure, leaving his son Hidetada to carry on the government at Yedo. Here for the first time many of the treasures of Japa- nese literature, which had hitherto exist- ed only in manuscript, were put into print. Shizuoka is now the place of retirement of the ex-Shogun Keiki, who lives there in quiet seclusion as a private gentleman. An afternoon is enough for the sights of Shizuoka, which consist of the ruins of the former castle, and of two fine temples — Rinzaiji and Sengen. All that remains of the Castle are the decaying walls and the moats. Within its enclosure stands the Prefecture, a hideous red brick building. The Court House and Normal School are outside the moat, on the S. side. The Buddhist temple of Rinzaiji lies 8 cho away from the city, at the foot of a range of wooded hills. It belongs to the Zen sect, and is noted for its connection with Ieyasu and for the number of objects of art which it contains. The little-room of only 4-J mats (yo-jo-han), where Ieyasu learnt to write, is shown, as are several scrolls, screens, pieces of lacquer and porcelain, etc., pre- sented by him to the temple in his old age. There is also a thread- bare but still beautiful piece of embroidery presented by the Mikado Go-Nara (A.D. 1527-1557), and a number of kakemono by Kano Masa- nobu, Chin Nampin, and other old masters. In the Hondo is a painted statue of Imagawa Yoshimoto, younger brother to Ujiteru, founder of the temple. Another painted statue represents the second abbot. The Honzon is Amida, a black image with a gold background. In a side chapel is preserved the wooden image of Marishi-ten, which Ieyasu — who for all his political and mili- tary genius, was not free from the superstitions of his time — used con- stantly to carry about with him as a charm. The visitor will also be shown a small pagoda- shaped gilt revolving book-case containing a complete set of the edition of the Bnddhist scriptures, printed for the first time with movable Shizuoka. 26& types in 1888. The 1st and 2nd October are the great festival days at Rinzaiji. The Temple of Sengen, which stands at the N. limit of the town, was built under the superintendence of Okubo Hikozaemon, a personage famous in Japanese history as the minister and confidant of the Sho- gun Iemitsu. Though chiefly dedi- cated to the worship of Ko-no-hana- saku-ya-hime, alias Sengen, the beautiful Shinto goddess of Mount Fuji, it is constructed and decorated in the most ornate Buddhist style. Specially noteworthy are the wood-carvings. The grounds now serve as a public park. Entering by two handsomely carved wooden gates, the visitor finds himself in a large quadrangle, in the centre of which is a stage formerly used for the performance of the kagura dance by young girls. The interior of the oratory proper (go haiden no o- biroma) is a hall 63 ft. by 33 ft., with large solid pillars of keyaki lacquered red, two of which form at the same time the corner pillars of the upper storey. The two central compartments of the ceiling are painted with dragons, one called the Shiho no Byd, or " Dra- gon of the Four Quarters," because whatever quarter of the compass he be viewed from he seems to glare down directly at the spectator ; the other, Happo no Byd, or " Dragon of the Eight Quarters," because his glance is directed to every point of the circle. The former of these is by Yusen Hogan, the latter by Kano Motonobu. Eight other com- partments contain pictures of angels playing on musical instru- ments, also by painters of the Kano school. Two broad flights of steps behind the oratory lead up to a building containing two chapels, one dedicated to Sengen, the other to Onamuji. The two chapels are connected by a room in which a nightly watch was formerly kept by retainers of the Tokugawa family. Do not fail to notice the carvings on the gates leading to these twin chapels. One set repre- sents a lioness with her cub, and on a second panel her royal mate, — both surrounded by peonies, the king of flowers, as the lion is the king of beasts. Another set repre- sents hawks with pine-trees. Round the chapel itself are carvings of the pine-tree, bamboo, and plum-blos- som by Hidari Jingoro. The crest of a fan of feathers is that of the goblin Jtengu) who was god of Mount Oyama and father of the goddess of Fuji. Near the main quadrangle is a smaller building . called Sosha, formerly dedicated to Marishi-ten and now to the Shinto god Yachi- hoko-no-kami. It is the newest of all the buildings, and the decora- tions are therefore in better repair. In the curved roof of the porch a phoenix carved out of a single block of wood is very fine ; and all round, above the architrave, runs a series of delicate little groups representing the Twenty-four Paragons of Filial Piety. The stone lanterns in the grounds were presented by various Daimyos and Hatamotos. — Beyond the Mari- shi-ten temple, a broad flight of 105 stone steps leads up to the Oku-no-in, which affords a good view of the town. The best excursion from Shizuoka is that by jinrikisha to Kuno-zan (3 ri) ; see pp. 267-8. From Shizuoka to Nagoya, a distance of 115 miles, the line for the most part ceases to skirt the sea, and runs over a flat country with low hills on one or both sides, or else among rice-fields. Spurs of the central range forming the back- bone of the country are, however, often seen far away to the r. Just outside Shizuoka we cross the Abekawa close to its mouth, and obtain a pretty glimpse of the sea with the small promontory of Kuno- zan and the large promontory of Izu, before passing through two long 270 Route 34.— The Tdkaldd. tunnels. The Oigawa is crossed after passing the station of Shimada. Kanaya (good accommodation at the Cliogetsu-kican, a bathing resort 25 did from the station). Like all the rivers on this coast, the Oigawa has a bed out of proportion to the small volume of water that gene- rally flows down it, the bed being nearly a mile broad, while the actual stream is not more than some 50 yds. except in flood-time. _ In pre-railway days, the passage of the Oigawa was one of the most exciting- portions of the journey along the Tokaido. No ferry-boats could be used on -account ■of the swiftness of the current, and travel- lers were carried across on small hand- platforms called rendai. The naked coolies who bore these aloft always chose the deepest parts of the stream, in order to impress their fares with a sense of the peril of the undertaking, and thus obtain the largest possible pourboire. This inci- dent of old-fashioned travel is pourtrayed in almost every set of coloured prints representing the "Fifty-three Stages of the Tokaido" (Tokaido G-o-ju-mn Tmgi). Kake*ra.wa (Inn Kyugetsu-ro) manufactures kuzu-ori, a sort of linen cloth woven from grass. [It is the station where those must alight who desire to visit the Temple of Akiha, some 12 ri inland, of which the first 6ri as far as the vill. of Mikura are practicable for jinrikishas. The visitor may conveniently sleep at Sakashita some 4 J ri further on, at the base of the mountain on which the temple stands. The ascent, locally computed at 50 did, is probably less. The last part commands an extensive and beautiful view, including the wide plain of Tofcomi with the sea beyond, towards which the broad white bed of the river Tenryu is seen winding its way. The temple of Akiha enjoys a wide reputation for sanctity, and is visited annually by crowds of pilgrims. Un- fortunately for the tourist of artistic and antiquarian tastes, all the beauti- ful Buddhist buildings in which Kwannon and other deities had for centuries been invoked, were de- stroyed by fire on the occasion of the great yearly festival in 1875, and the present temple was afterwards erec- ted in the bare, uninteresting style of Pure Shinto. It has been dedi- cated to Kagutsuchi-no-Mikoto, who is regarded by some as the God of Fire, but is more correctly explained as the God of Summer Heat.] Before reaching Hamamatsu the train crosses the Tenryu-gawa, whose celebrated Rapids form the subject of Koute 29. The Tenryu is the first of the three great rivers* from which the province of Mikawa, which the line here traverses, takes its name. The other two are the Ogawa (also called Oyagawa or Ohira-gawa) on this side of the station of Oka/aki, noted in history as the birthplace of the great Shogun Ie- yasu, and the Yahagi-gawa just beyond the same station. Nakaizumi (Inn opposite railway station). _ Haiuamatsn {Inns, * Hana-ya, Ogome-ya, each with a branch at the station) is the only place be- tween Shizuoka and Nagoya where the journey can be broken with any comfort. The town derives a peculiar appearance from the use of long projecting eaves which cause the houses to look as if about to tumble forward into the street. Just beyond Maisaka, w r e reach a large lagoon (Hamano no Mizu-umi), of whose beauties the railway affords but a passing glimpse while crossing its mouth on a long series of dykes and bridges, whence the roar of the breakers of the Pacific can be distinctly heard. Though called a lake in Japanese, this lagoon has now a narrow entrance about 600 yds. across formed in the year 1499, when an earthquake broke down the sand-spit that had previously separated the fresh water from the sea. The pro- vince of Tofcomi derives ifcs name from this lake, which was called Totouu, a corruption of To-tsu-awa-umi, "the distant foaming sea," in contradistinction to Lake Biwa, named Chika-tm-aica-nmi, ** the near foaming sea," which gave its name to the province of Omi. Between Wasliizn and Toyolia- slli, a fine bronze image of Kwannon Atsuta. N a (joy a. 271 10 ft. high and dating from the year 1765, is seen perched r. on a pinnacle of rock. [The town of Toyokawa 9 2 \ ri N. of Toyohashi, possesses a large and famous Temple of Inari, which can be visited be- tween trains by taking a jin- rikisha with 2 men.] Between Goyn 9 where the line again touches the picturesque shore, and Kamagori there are delightful peeps of the sea, of the islets in the Bay of Toyohashi, and of the moun- tains of the provinces of Shima, Ise, and Iga beyond. After Okaza- ki comes a dull bit, flat and with rice-fields on either hand, or sand- hillocks and pine scrub ; but from Otaka the fine range separating the provinces of Ise and Omi rises ahead, and is kept in view all the way to Atsuta (Inns, Kikyd-ya near railway station ; Okada-ya near steamer landing-place). Foreigners rarely alight at this town, which is practically a suburb of Nagoya, unless they are bound to the temples of Ise (see pp. 245-6). It possesses, however, a fine set of Shinto temples of its own, from which it derives its alternative name of Miya. These temples, originally founded in A.D. 686, have recently been restored in Pure Shinto style, exactly on the lines of the Ise temples. Persons unable to spare time for visiting the latter may therefore, by stopping over a train at Atsuta, gain some notion of what Ise is like. The jinrikisha ride on to the next station, Nagoya, where they would probably break their journey in any case, is only some 4 miles. The official name of the temples is Atsuta Daijingu. The gods worshipped here are the Sun- Goddess Anmterasu, her brother Susa- no-o, Prince Yamato-take (see p. 66), the latter' s wife Miyazu-hime, and her brother Take-ina-tane. But the object really most venerated,— indeed, the raison d'etre of the temples and consequently of the town, — is the famous sword called Kum-nagi-no Wforugi, one of the three antique objects which form the Imperial regalia of Japan, the other two being a mirror and a jewel. This sword (so legend goes) was found by Susa-no-o in the tail of an eight-headed serpent, which he intoxicated with sake and then slew. Having 'been brought from heaven many centuries later by the first ancestor of the Mikados, it came into the possession of Yamato-take and assist- ed that Prince in the conquest of Eastern Japan. This treasure is never shown, but a great festival is held in its honour on the 21st June. The outer box enshrining it has an autograph inscription by the pre- sent Emperor. The complete "legend of the sword Kusa-nagi will be found in the Kojihi ( Trans, of the Asiatic Soc. of Japan, Vol. X., Supplement, Sect. XVIII., LXXX1X, and LXXXIIL). At some little distance from the chief temple is another dedicated to a scarcely less sacred sword called Ta-tsurugi. The legend concerning itjis kept as an esoteric secret. Nsigroya (Inns, Shinachu, also called Hotel du Progres, foreign ;• *Shukin-r6). ' This flourishing commercial city, the largest on the Tokaido, capital of the Province of Owari and of the prefecture of Aichi, was formerly the seat of the Prince of Owari, whose family was closely allied to that of the Tokugawa Shoguns, the founder of the house of Owari having been a son of Ieyasu. Their fief was rated at 550,000 kokn of rice, and the Owa- ri' s ranked as one of the " Three August Families" (Go San-ke), entitled to furnish. ' a successor to the Shogun's throne in default of an heir. Their castle, which is still one of the wonders of Japan, was erected in 1610 by twenty great feudal lords, to serve as the residence of leyasu's son. In the early years of the present regime it was handed over to the Military Department; and the beautiful decora- tions of the Prince's dwelling apartments suffered, as did so much else in Japan, from the almost incredible vandalism and vulgar stupidity of that period,— common soldiers, or officers as ignorant as they, being allowed to deface the priceless wall- paintings of a Tan-j^u, a Motonobu, and a Matahei. This desecration is now happily put an end to, though much irreparable damage has been done. The castle has been taken over by the Imperial House- hold Department, to be preserved as a monument of historic interest. The two golden dolphins [kin no shack i-hoko), which can be seen glittering all over the city from the top of the five-storied donjon (tenthu), were made in 1610 at the cost of the celebrated general, Kato Kiyomasa, who also built the keep. One of them was sent to the Vienna Exhibition of 1873, and on its way back was wrecked in the Messageries Maritime* Steamer "Nil." Having been recovered with great diffi.- 272 Route 34.— The Tokaido. culty, it was finally restored to its original position, much to the satisfaction of the citizens. The golden dolphins measure 87 ft. in height, and are valued at $180,000. Nagoya is noted for its manufac- ture of porcelain, cloisonne, and fans. The principal dealers are : Porcelain. — Takito, Matsumura. At the latter the processes of manufacture can be inspected. Those interested in porcelain should compare Eoute 31, p. 214. Cloisonne. — Honda, Kodama, Ta- keuchi. Processes of manufacture shown to visitors. Fans. — Ohashi, Matsuo. Silk Mercers. — Ito, Daimaru. There are many lesser but good shops for all the above articles ; also several bazaars (kwanJcoba) for -articles of general utility. Five or six large cotton-mills have been started of late years, and the em- broidering of handkerchiefs has taken a considerable place among the local industries. Theatre. — Suehiro-za. The Museum contains a collection of the various manufactures of the prefecture. It may be worth spending a day at Nagoya to see a flourishing pro- vincial town. Though the Castle is now inaccessible except to visitors of special distinction, all may in- spect Nagoya's second greatest sight — the Higashi Hongwanji Temple — the Museum, and the minor temples described below. The evening may be agreeably whiled away by going the round of the bazaars. The Castle (O Shiro).—The space between the inner and outer moats, now containing extensive barracks and parade-grounds, was formerly occupied by quarters for the Prince's samurai or retainers, of- fices civil and military, etc. Pass- ing into the inner enclosure over a moat now dry and used to keep tame deer in, the traveller is first shown through the Apartments, — a beautiful wreck, for mats and furniture are gone and the walls are considerably defaced, but very fine nevertheless. The sliding screens ( fusuma ) between the rooms, the alcoves (tokonoma), and the wooden doors separating the dif- ferent sets of Apartments are all decorated with paintings of flowers, birds, etc., chiefly by artists of the Kano school, such as Eishin, Moto- nobu, and Tari-yu. One room has cherry-blossoms and pheasants by Tosa - no - Mitsuoki. Another — the most attractive of all — has multi- tudinous scenes of popular life by Ukiyo Matahei. One specially gorgeous apartment, decorated by Tan-yu with ideal Chinese scenery, was reserved for the use of the Shogun when he came to visit the Prince his kinsman. Observe the difference of height between the inner and outer portion of this room, — the former (jodan) being for the Shogun himself, the latter (geclan) for those inferior persons who were graciously admitted to an audience. The ramma (ventilating panels) of this room have exquisite- ly faithful carvings of a crane and tortoise and of a cock perched on a drum, by Plidari Jingoro, who also carved the flowers and birds in certain other rooms. Leaving these apartments, one comes to a much humbler suite brought from Nobu- naga's castle at Kiyosu, and is then led into the donjon or keep, a gloomy five-storied building, all of stone without, but furnished with wooden staircases withim The well at the bottom, called Ogon-sui, or " the Golden Water," was dug by Kato Kiyomasa. The fifth storey commands an extensive view — the town of course, the sea, the im- mense plain of Owari and Mino laid out in rice-fields, and, limiting the horizon, the mountains of Ise, Iga, Omi, Echizen, Hida, Shinshu, and Totomi. No fee is accepted by the custo- dian of the Castle. Higashi Hongivanji, This wonderful Buddhist temple, where exterior and interior are both equally grand, dates in its actual shape from the Nagoya. 273 beginning of the present century. In l mediseval times a castle occupied its site, whence the castle-like walls that still surround the enclosure. On the occasion of the combined military and naval manoeuvres at Nagoya in 1890, the apart- ments were occupied by H. M. the Mikado. The two-storied gate-house, a magnificent structure in wood, has three portals, decorated with floral arabesques in relief on the lintel and posts ; and the gates have scrolls and open-work diapers, with solid bronze plates binding the framework together, the whole in excellent taste and style. On the further side of a spacious court rises the lofty main building, which looks two-storied, an effect pro- duced by the exterior colonnade having a roof lower than that of the main structure. The interior measures 120 ft. in length by 108 ft. in depth, and is divided longi- tudinally into three parts, that in front being for the use of ordinary worshippers, the centre for the con- gregation on special occasions, and the innermost being the naijin, or chancel. This latter is divided into three compartments, the central one being occupied by the shumi-dan, a platform on which stands a handsome gilt shrine holding an image of Amida about 4 ft. high. Both the shumi-dan and the table in front are enriched with small painted carvings, that produce a glorious effect. L. of the chief shrine is a smaller one, containing a por- trait of the founder of the sect, taken from the effigy in the metropolitan temple at Kyoto. In the ramma along the front of the naijin are gilt open-work carvings of angels, with gilt carvings of the peacock and phoenix in the kaeru-mata above. The heavy beams of the ceiling are supported by excellent carvings of lotus-flowers and leaves. In some of the kaeru-mata over these beams are spirited carvings of conven- tional lions. The ceiling itself is unpainted, and divided into coffers about 3 ft. square. The compart- ments r. and 1. of the altar have gilt coppered ceilings. In the kaeru- mata of the external colonnade are well-conceived groups of super- natural beings, — Gama Sennin with his frog, Kinko riding on the carp, Koan on the tailed tortoise, O-Shiko riding on his crane, Ka-Shinjin administering medicine to the dragon, the umbrella miraculously flying back to Shoichi through the air, and two carrying baskets of fish. The series is continued round the sides by the crane, the lion, and the flying dragon. As usual in Hongwanji temples, there is another building called the Jiki-do, connect- ed with the main building by a gal- lery resembling a bridge. Though much less elaborate than the main altar, the altar of the Jiki-do is yet a fine blaze of gold. R. and 1. of the central image of Amida, are some charming gold sliding screens representing mountain scenery. The apartments of the temple contain several kakemonos and other works of art, which are, however, generally stowed away in a godown. In front of the main gate is an avenue of drooping cherry-trees (shidare- zakura), which are very pretty in April. The remaining temples of Nagoya are much inferior. The following may be mentioned : — Eikokuji (close to the Higashi Hongwanji), in the courtyard of which is a stone with the imprint of Buddha's feet. They seem to have been in proportion to his stature, which legend fixes at 16 ft. On the soles are representations of the wheel of the law (rimbo), fishes, etc. Nishi Hongwanji, not to be com- pared with the Higashi Hongwanji for size and beauty. In the kaeru- mata above the altar are groups of the Four-and-Twenty Paragons of Filial Piety. Nanatsu-dera, the interior walls of which are gilt and decorated with good paintings of angels. The large bronze image on the verandah repre- sents either Dainichi or Amida — which of the two is not quite certain. 274 Boute 34. — The Tokaido. Go Hyahu Rahan (properly Dai- ryuji). It is worth applying to the custodian for admittance to the gallery behind, where are kept five hundred images of Buddha's chief disciples, mostly about 2 ft. high, all brightly painted, and all different. Some are smiling, some are solemn, some are fierce, some stupid-looking, some have a super- cilious air, some an air of smug self-satisfaction, some few are lying down, others are praying, others again have their arms extended in the attitude of benediction, one has three eyes, one holds a tiger-cub in his arms, others ride on horses, elephants, phoenixes, and so on almost ad infinitum. No wonder the Japanese say that among the Five Hundred Rakan, every specta- tor can find the likeness of his own father by dint of a little search- ing. Nagoya, like most other large towns, possesses a number of new, uninteresting buildings in the style or no style known in the Japan of to-day as " foreign." Such are the Prefectural Office, the Post and Telegraph Office, the Hospital, the Normal School, the Court Houses, etc., etc. The only excursion to be recom- mended in the neighbourhood of Nagoya is to the potteries of Seto between 5 and 6 ri distant. See p. 244. From Nagoya on to Kusatsu the railway line deserts the old Tokaido, and, though called the Tokaido Railway, really follows the Naka- sendo. Quitting Nagoya, the train wends on through more and ever more rice-fields, with blue moun- tains far ahead, somewhat to the 1. They are the mountains dividing the provinces of Owari and Mino from those of Omi and Ise. Fourteen miles out of Nagoya, the line crosses the Kisogawa, the river whose upper course forms so beautiful a portion of the Nakasendo (see p. 280), and which is picturesque even here near its mouth. On the 28th October, 1891, Central Japan was convulsed by one of the greatest earthquakes on record. Severely felt over an area equal to that of England, the most disastrous effects were confined to the fertile plain of the provinces of Mino and Owari, with its thickly populated towns and villages, which included places of such magnitude as Nagoya, the fourth city of the_Ernpire ; Gifu with 30,000 in- habitants ; Ogaki, Kasamatsu, and Take- gahana. The last two were totally des- troyed, fire having completed the ruin left by the first upheaval. A similar fate overtook scores of hamlets dotting the plain, and levelled to the ground the almost continuous line of houses which stretched along the old highway from Nagoya to Gifu, a distance of 19 miles. Large brick buildings in Nagoya and in Osaka, 75 miles from the sea.t of maximum disturbance, collapsed like a house of cards. Railway communication_was in- terrupted between Atsuta and Ogaki, a distance of 32 miles, and was not entirely restored until the 16th April, 1892. No- thing, indeed, showed the violence of the earthquake wave so markedly as the shattered cast-iron piers of the great bridge spanning the Nagara-gawa, whose embankments also subsided, leaving the rails suspended in mid-air. Even more titanic were the forces at work in the valley of the Neo {Neo-dani) some 10 miles N. of Gifu. Great landslips took place, mountains were dislodged, mud geysers appeared, and many houses sank out of sight in huge earth-fissures. Altogether, about ten thousand people perished, twen- ty thousand were wounded, and one hun- dred and twenty-eigVit thousand houses were 1 destroyed. The lesson plainly taught by this terri- ble calamity was the duty of building solidly. Flimsy structures whether of wood or brick were shattered in an in- stant, whereas the solid ma sonry _of the castle of Nagoya and even that of Ogaki, which was close to the centre of distur- bance, showed scarcely a trace of the shock. Gifu (Inns, * Tamai-ya, Tsuno- kuui-ya) is an important place, and capital of the prefecture of the same name, which includes the two pro- vinces of Mino and Hida. A conical hill named Inaba-yama, E. of the town, was the site of a castle built by the great warrior Ota Nobunaga. Raw silk and the silk of the wild silkworm are produced in large quantities in the neighbourhood, most of it being woven into crape. In this the glittering threads of the wild silk, which take|f the dyes in a less degree than that of the ordinary Gifu. , Waterfall of Yoro. 275 ^silkworm, are introduced to form the pattern. The mon-chirimen woven in this manner is a very handsome fabric. Gifu is also noted for its paper-lanterns (said to be the hest in Japan) and other paper- wares, the mino-gami being univer- sally prized. In the summer-time it may be worth staying over a night at Gifu, in order to see an extremely curious .method of fishing with the help of cormorants (Ukai) on the River Nagara. The traveller is referred for a description of this to the arti- cle entitled " Cormorant Fishing " in Things Japanese. On nearing Ogaki (Inns, Kyomaru-ya at the station ; Tama-ya), the castle of the former Daimyo, now Viscount Toda, with one turret in fairly good preservation, is seen 1. of the line. [Not to the hurried tourist, but to the leisurely lover of Old Japan and her ways, a day or two at Yoro, in this neighbourhood, is much to be recommended. The plan is to alight at Ogaki sta- tion, there take a jinrikisha over the plain through the vill. of Tahada (2J ri) to Ishibata (10 chd more), and thence walk the last \ ri to Yoro, which stands on the flank of the mountain ridge of the same name. One may return either the way one came, or else to Tarui station, about same dis- tance, or Seki-ga-hara, nearly 1 ri longer. Seki-ga-hara is the best station from which to approach Yoro when coming from the Kyoto direction. The raison d'etre of the little village of Yoro (Inns, *Kiku- sui-ro, Murakami), of the gar- dens, and of the fine Kairaku- sha club-house dating from 1880, is the celebrated water- fall called Yoro-ga-taki. This name, which may be translat- ed as "the Cascade of Filial Piety," is explained by the following legend : - In A.D. 717 there lived a wood-cutter :S0 filial in his conduct that he was wont to expend the proceeds of his toil on sake for his aged father, whose grand passion was strong drink. As a reward for such exem- plary piety, there was one day reveal- ed to him the existence of this cas- cade, which consists (or at least con- sisted at that time) of pure and excellent sake. The legend forms a favourite subject of Japanese art. Both the Kiku-sui-ro inn and i the Kairakusha club command lovely views of the broad sweep of the Mino plain, with On take, Ena-san, and other mountains beyond. Very charming too is the thoroughly Japanese ar- rangement of the park, and the walk up to the waterfall through 5 chd of cherry and maple-trees. The fall itself, which is 70 ft. high (not 105 ft., as local fondness pretends), is embosom- ed in maple-trees. The rock on either side contains fossil- ferns, known as Shinobn-scki. Yoro is a cool place in summer. In winter the Shimo-ike, a large mere a little over 1 ri distant in a S.E. direction, swarms with wild-geese, duck, etc., which are taken by means of nets, and at all seasons with eels, carp, and perch, which help to supply the Kyoto fish-market. The distance to the summit of Yoro-yama is locally estimated at 2 ri. A most extensive view rewards the climber. . While in this neighbourhood, one might visit the marble quarries of Akasaiva-yama, also called Kinsbo-zan, 1 ri 10 chd from Ogaki in the direction of Tarui, and the celebrated temple of Tanignmi-dera, some 7 ri to the N. of Tarui by a jinriki- sha road. This temple is the thirty-third and last of the Places Sacred to the Goddess Kwannon (see Ete. 42). Of the many inns that have sprung up near it, the best are the Masu- ya and Kame-ya.] There are inferior inns at the small stations of Tarui and Seki-ga-hara. 276 Route 34.— The Tokaido. Seki-ga-hara takes its name, which means literally "Moor of the Barrier," from the barrier of Fuwa (Futva no seki) established at this spot in A.D. 673 by the Emperor Temmn, it having been a Japa- nese custom from the earliest period down to the beginning of the present reign to hamper free communication throughout the country by means of barriers near the capital, which none might pass without a special permit. Seki-ga-hara is celebrated in Japanese history as the scene of a decisive battle fought in the year 1600 between Ieyasu and Hideyori, son of the great, Hideyoshi, in which Ieyasu triumph- ed. His camp at Seki-ga-hara was on a level piece of ground among the hills on the 1. side of the road, near a hamlet called Nogami-mura. Here the long journey across the plain terminates, and the Tokaidd Railway again enters diversified scenery, as it plunges among the hills that enclose beautiful Lake Biwa. Between Seki-ga-hara and Nagaoka the gradient is steep, the line being led up a narrow valley opening out on a small plain devoted to the cultivation of the mulberry- tree. The tall bare mountain fre- quently seen looming up to the r. during this portion of the journey is Ibuki-yama (about 4,300 ft.), one of the " Seven High Mountains " of Central Japan, and noted in the early Japanese pharmacopoeia for its wealth of medicinal plants. The " Seven High Mountains " are Hiei- zan, Hira-yama in 6mi, Ibuki-yama, Kim- pu-zan (or Online) near Yoshino, Atago- san in Yamashiro, Tonomine, and Kazu- raki-yama. Passing among pretty, pine-clad hills we reach Maibara (Inn, Itsutsu-ya at the station), whence all the way on to Baba, the_station for the important town of Otsn, the line runs along the basin of Lake Biwa, though unfortunately not near enough to the shore to allow of many glimpses of the lake being obtained. The whole scenery is, however, pretty — and pretty in a way of its own. Quite close, to the 1., is the range of hills forming the southern rim of the Lake Biwa basin; faraway to the r., in the dim distance, are the blue mountains enclosing the lake on the N., while immediately on either side of the line is a fair cultivated plain. At Hikone (Inns, Raku-raku-tei,. Matsu-ya), the former Daimyo's castle is seen r. on a wooded hill. Before reaching Notogawa, the rivers Serigawa, Inukami-gawa, and Echigawa are crossed. The cone of Mikami-yama, also called Mukade-yama, shaped like Fuji but thickly wooded, begins to peep up from behind a nearer range of hills before reaching Knsatsn* Between this place and Baba, the most striking view on the whole Tokaidd W. of Shizu- oka is obtained on crossing the long bridge that spans the Setagawa,. where the lake opens out beautifully for a few minutes. From Baba or Otsw (Inn, Minarai-tei, foreign style), the line jpasses through a tunnel under Osaka- yama (nothing to do with the city of Osaka), before reaching the small station of Otani, where it emerges on a narrow valley. The hills are cover- ed with that thick growth of pine- trees which characterises all the country round about Kyoto. [For further details concerning the portion of the Tokaido Route_ lying between Maibara and Otani, see Route 40, en- titled Lake Biiva.] The train then passes through the stations of Yamasliina and Inari. Over 11,000 pilgrims alight yearly at this latter place on the occasion of the yearly festival of the Shinto temple of Inari, for which see Route 39. The train then enters the old capital, Kyoto, fully described in Rout& 39, after which it crosses a wide plain, and passes through several minor stations before reaching the great commercial town of Osaka, described in Route 38. From Osaka onwards, the hills in Route 35. — The Nakasendo. 277 the distance to the r. begin to draw in, the broad fruitful plain rapidly contracts until it becomes a mere strip fringing the sea-shore, and at the station of Nishinomiyn, there begins to rise r. the screen of somewhat barren hills that help to give Kobe its good climate by protecting that part of the coast from wintry blasts. The high land seen in the distance across the water is not, as might be supposed, an island, but a portion of the province of Izumi. At Nishi- nomiya stands a small but famous Temple of Ebisu, one of the seven gods of Luck, to which immense crowds of worshippers flock on the First Day of the Horse {Hatsu-uma) of the First Moon, O.S., — generally some day in February. This part of the country is one of the chief centres of the sake manufacture. The three tunnels passed through on this section of the journey are remarkable as going under river- beds. Owing to the proximity of the neighbouring mountains to the sea, quantities of sand and stones are swept down whenever the •streams are swollen by rain. As a consequence of this, the river-beds tend constantly to raise themselves more and more above the general level of the country, which they traverse like dykes. Occasionally of course a dyke breaks down, and then there is an inundation with attendant loss of life and property. Soon after passing through Siimiyoslii, an insignificant place not to be confounded with the well- known Sumiyoshi near Sakai, the train runs in to Sannomiya, and the long jour- ney is at an end, Sannomiya being the station for the foreign settle- ment of Kobe. To go on one station further, to what is tech- nically called Kobe, would carry the traveller past his destination into the native town. It must therefore be dis- tinctly borne in mind that if bound for Kobe, one must book only as far as Sannomiya. [For Kobe and Neighbourhood, see Route 37.] EOUTE 35. The Nakasendo. Itinerary of the Nakasendo from Karuizaiua to Gifu. KAEUIZAWA to :— Ri. Clio. M. Kutsukake 1 10 3 Oiwake 1 6 2g Otai 1 12 3J Iwamurata 1 3 2f Shionada 1 16 3J- Yawata 23 If Mochizuki 33 2| Ashida 1 9 3 Nagakubo 1 13 3| Wada 2 — 5 SHIMO-NO-SUWA 5 23 13f Shiojiri 2 30 7 Seba 1 28 4J Motoyama 28 2 Niekawa 2 — 5 Narai 1 29 4J Yabuhara 1 12 3J Miyanokoshi 1 35 4g FUKUSHIMA.... 2 11 5| Agematsu 2 11 5J Suwara 3 7 7f Nojiri 1 29 4J Midono 2 11 5f Tsumago 1 8 3 Magome 1 34 45 Ochiai 1 7 3 NAKATSU-GAWA 1 — 2 J Oi 2 25 6| Okute 3 13 8§ Hosokute 1 26 4J Mitake 2 33 7 Fushimi 1 8 3 Ota 1 32 4J Unuma 2 10 5£ Kano 4 7 10J GIFU 24 If Total 64 4 156J 278 Route 35. — The Nakasendo. The Nakasendo, or Central Mountain Road, is so named in contradistinc- tion to the Tokaido or Eastern Sea Road, and the comparatively unim- portant Hokuroku-do, or Northern Land Road in Kaga and Etchu, between which it occupies a middle position. It runs from Tokyo to Kyoto, passing through the province sjof Musashi, Kotsuke, Shin- shu, Mino, Omi, and Yamashiro. The road seems to have been originally con- structed early in the 8th century. Legend- ary history states, however, that in the reign of the Emperor Keiko (A.D. 71-130), Ms son, Prince Yamato-take, crossed over the Usui Pass during his conquest of East- ern Japan, suggesting the inference that some kind of track was believed to have existed there from the very earliest times. The railway route closely follows the an- cient highway over the Tokyo plain, and is flat and uninteresting till Takasaki is left behind. Though, properly speaking, the Nakasendo runs the whole way from Tokyo to Kyoto, the portion between Karuizawa and Gifu is the only one now usually done by road, the Tokyo- Karuizawa Railway, described in Route 10, having replaced the Naka- sendo across the plain of Tokyo, and the final flat piece between Gifu and Kyoto being also now travelled over by the Tokaido Railway (see Route 34). The distance between Karui- zawa and Gifu may be accomplished in 6 days. Jinrikisbas with two men are practicable as far as the Wada- toge, after which point it is only pos- sible to use them on the flat portions of the road ; but three or four coolies can take one right through. The distance by road may be shortened by taking train to Tanaka on the Karuizawa-Naoetsu Railway, 1J hr. from Karuizawa. Travellers coming from the direction of Naoetsu and desirous of joining the Nakasendo, should alight at Uecla (see Route 25). Those coming from the Kyoto direc- tion are advised to engage jinriki- sbas at Gifu for the through journey to Karuizawa. At' the latter place it is more difficult to make such an arrangement for the journey to Gifu. The Nakasendo traverses moun- tainous, sparselycultivated districts, remote from populous centres, and the peasantry alung portions of the route have a poverty-stricken appearance. The accommodation,, however, is fairly good. Milk, beer,, potatoes, etc., may be procured at several places. The best time for travelling along the Nakasendo is the summer or autumn. Between January and April this route is not to be recommended, on account of the snow — especially on the passes*. After passing through Kilts askake (Inn, Masu-ya), and Oi wake (Inn, Nakamura), the latter a place once possessing some im- portance, but now ruined by the railway having diverted the traffic from the old highway, the Nakasendo makes a sharp turn to the 1., and gradually descends the grassy base of Asama-yama. [For the ascent of this volcano see p. 152.] The ample sweep of the moun- tain is calculated to impress the beholder, and the walk over the springy turf is most exhilarating. Large blocks of lava lying scat- tered about in all directions attest the violence of the eruption which occurred in 1783, when Oiwake and other places in the vicinity were completely destroyed. The track of the Karuizawa-Naoetsu Railway is crossed about 1 ri after leaving Oi- wake. Iwamnrata. (Inn, Wakamatsu- ya) w r as formerly the seat of a small Daimyo, Naito Wakasa-no-Kami. [At this place a road branches off 1. to Kofu via the Tsuyutare Pass; see p. 123.] Beyond Shionada the road cross- es the Chikuma-gawa, also called Shinano-gawa, which, flowing north- ward, becomes one of the great rivers of Japan and falls into the sea at Niigata. Between Yaivata. and Mocliizuki (Inn, Kawachi-ya),. a fine view of Ya'tsu-ga-take and the mountains E. of Matsumoto is obtained, from a hill called Uryu- zaka. From Mochizuki the road gradually rises over undulating country formed' by the spurs of. From Karuizawa to Shi mo -no -Sine a. 279 Tatesbina-yama to Ashita, a poor vill. at the foot of the Kasatori- toge. The ascent of this pass, 3,200 ft. above the sea, is short and easy, and from the tea-house at the top, the traveller can enjoy a glorious prospect. The summit of Asama- yama rises grandly above Gimba- yama, with lesser heights stretching away in a line to the 1., while below lies the wide moor that has just been traversed. At the foot of the pass on the other side (650 ft. down), is the village of Nagiikiibo {Inn, Yamazaki-ya). TYadii (Inns, Nagai, Kome-ya), lies at the N. E. foot of the pass of the same name (Wada-toge), the longest and highest on the Naka- Sendo, being 5,300 ft. above the level of the sea. Snow lies on it up to the end of April, but is seldom so deep as to block the road. Rather than stay overnight at Wada, which is often crowded in summer, most travellers prefer pushing on to the cluster of tea- houses (Kiso-ya and Tsuchi-ya are the best) collectively known as Higashi Mochiya, 5 did from the top of the pass. The glorious view from the summit may best be enjoyed by climbing one of the hills to the r. of the road, involving J hr. delay. To the N.E., rises Asama-yama ; to the S.E. Tateshina and Yatsu-ga-take ; S.W. the eye rests upon the basin of Lake Suwa ; further to the W. stand Koma-ga-take and Ontake, while to the N.W. a great portion of the Hida-Shinshu range is visible. The descent to Shimo-no-3uwa soon leads to a dull valley between hills of no great height, every avail- able nook of which has been brought under cultivation. The stone monu- ment passed on the way is to the memory of six warriors who, sur- prised here by the enemy, com- mitted harakiri rather than sur- render. This was in December, 1863. Slii mo-no-Snwa (Inns* Mar u-ya r Kame-ya, Ogi-ya) lies, in a .', large basin, the greater part of which is occupied by Lake Suwa. It is celebrated for its hot springs, the principal of which, called Wata-no- yu, are situated at the top of the street where the Nakasendo turns to ther. and the Koshu Kaido branches off to the 1. The baths are quite clean ; the temperature, 113°. 9 F. According to the inhabitants, these waters contain silver. Of the two other principal sources in the vill., one called Ko-yu, which con- tains alum, has the high tempera- ture of 145°. 4 ; the other, called Tanga-yu, has a temperature of 114°.8. As in the case of many Japanese spas, Shimo-no-Suwa is apt to be noisy of an evening. In the day-time it is busy with the silk industry. The only buildings of any interest at Shimo-no-Suwa are two temples dedicated to the Shinto goddess Yasaka-iri-hime 7 one cf which is called Hkru-no- miya, or the Spring Temple, the other, Aki-no-miya, or the Autumn Temple. In the grounds of the latter stands a cryptomeria remark- able for its gigantic size. A quarter of an hour's walk takes one to the lake which is almost circular in form, having a diameter of about 1 ri. Its depth is said to be 35 ft. Lake Suwa freezes over most winters so solidly that heavily laden pack-horses can cross over to Kami-no-Sutua, near the S.E. extremity of the lake, with perfect safety. The inhabitants do not, however, venture upon the ice until it has cracked across, believing this to be a sign from heaven: Some attiibute the cracking to the foxes. During the winter the fishermen make holes in the ice, through which they insert their nets and contrive to take a consider- able quantity of fish, especially carp. From the S. end of Lake Suwa issues the Ten- ryu-gawa, which flows into the sea on the Tokaido. For the descent of the fine rapids of this river, see p. 230. From Shimo-no-Suwa the Naka- sendo runs for some distance through rich rice fields extending to the edge of the lake. To the foot of the Shiojiri-toge is a distance of 21 did. On looking back, views of Fuji are obtained from different points. The ascent ^of the pass- is 280 Route 35. — The Nahisendo. at first gentle, and in the steeper part there is a well-graded jinriki- sha road. But pedestrians will do best to take the older and steeper path, which saves time and affords finer views. The finest view of all is to be obtained from a slight eminence to the 1. of the road at the top, 3,340 ft. above the sea. Below lies the lake with villages studded over the adjacent plain. Of the high mountains that almost completely encircle the lake basin, Yatsu-ga-take is the most promi- nent. To the r. of the dip at the far-end of the lake, a portion of Fuji is seen behind the nearer range. The sharp peak further round to the r. is the Koshu Koma-ga-take, and further away rises the long summit of Shirane-san. A little further back, the top of Ontake is visible. Just behind are the lofty peaks of the range separating the plain of Matsumoto from the pro- vince of Hida. The descent on the other side is very easy. Ten cho beyond Shiojiri (Inn, Kawakami) a carriage road branches off at Daimon to Matsumoto (see p. 200), 4J ri. Passing through Seha and Motoyama {Inn, Tamaki-ya), we come to some charming scenery on the banks of the Saigawa, and follow that river to IViegawa, where the inn kept by Okuya Dembei is the most comfortable to be found anywhere on this route. After Niegawa, the road crosses the river to Hirasawa, where cheap and useful lacquered articles are made in large quantities, and then re-crosses to Narai (Inns, Echigo-ya, Tokkuri- ya), 3,330 ft. above the sea at the foot of the Torii-toge. This steep pass, 4,200 ft. has been made easier by recent improvements in the road. From the top, the eye wanders over the valley through which flow the upper waters of the Kisogawa which is famous for its beauty. Hence the alternative name of the Kiso Kaido, by which the Nakasendo is sometimes mentioned. The foliage is very fine, — beeches, horse-chestnuts, wal- nut-trees, and maples, which in autumn blaze with every tint of red and yellow. The name of this pass is derived from the torii on the top, dedicated to Ontake, the summit of which sacred mountain is visible hence on a clear day. Strange as it may seem, two battles were fought on this spot in the 16th century, between some of the rival chieftains who, during that period of anarchy, disputed Eastern Japan amongst them. From the base of Asama-yama up to this point, the preva- lent formation is stratified rock which breaks up into small sharp pieces ex- tremely uncomfortable to the feet, while beyond it is chiefly granite which, when disintegrated, forms an excellent mate- rial for road-making. The descent to Yabuhara ( Inns, Kawakami, Kawashima-ya), 3,150 ft. above the sea, is by an easy gradient. The peasants, both male and female, of this neighbourhood wear a divided skirt of a peculiar cut. They also use an odd kind of spade, heavy and two-handled. The diggers stand opposite each other, one delving, the other using the second handle to assist in raising the blade for the next blow. Good potatoes are grown hereabouts, and are largely used, not only for food, but for the manufacture of spirits (shochu). [From Yabuhara a road follows the r. bank of the Kisogawa nearly up to its source, and passes over into the province of Hida.] The road now follows the 1. bank of the Kisogawa, crossing to the r. bank at a point where the valley contracts and begins to wind about. After passing Miyaiiokoshi (Inn, Tonari-ya), there* is a fine view near the village of Ueda of the Shinshu Koma-ga- take, which consists of several rugged peaks rising to an altitude of over 10,000 ft. The lower hill in front is called Suisho-zan, from the fact that rock-crystals are found in it. All the available ground near Miya- nokoshi is planted with mulberry From Fiikwihima and Agematsu to Oi. 281 trees. Most of the silk produced finds its way to the loorns of Naga- hama in Omi. Fukushima (Inn, Suimei-ro, pic- turesquely situated) is a good-sized town extending along both banks of the Kisogawa. The portion of the route betwen Fukushima and Age- matsu surpasses all the rest of the Nakasendo both in charm and grandeur. Indeed, either Fuku- shima or Ageiuafsu {Inn, Hakuichi) would be a delightful place for the lover of mountain scenery to stay at for a few days. Both Ontake and the Shinshu Koma-ga-take can be con- veniently ascended from these points, and from the top of Koma-ga-take one may descend to the Ina Kaido for the rapids of the Tenryu-gawa (see Eoute 29). The ascent and descent on the other side could be done under favourable circumstances in one extremely long day ; but it is better to stop at the hut recom- mended on p. 243, or at another lower down. The next object of interest on the road is the monastery of JRinzenji, from the grounds of which a steep path descends to a platform of rock known as Nezame no Toko, or "the Bed of Awakening." This curious name is derived from a local tradition which avers that Urashima, the Japanese Rip Van Winkle (see p. 65), awoke in this spot from his long dream. Others, more matter-of-fact, ex- plain the name to mean that the view " wakes up," that is, startles those who come upon it. Besides the " platform," there are other rocks, precipitous and pic- turesque, to which fanciful names have been given, such as the Screen Rock, the Mat Rock, etc. A native guide-book says. " The wonderful scenery at this spot surpasses even the most magnificent prospects in other parts. Its noble character can scarcely be fully appreciated by the mind, or adequately described in language " (!) The Namegawa is next crossed by a bridge which affords a fine view of Koma-ga-take up the gorge. A little beyond this on the 1., just before reaching Ogiwara, is the Cascade of Ono. Fifteen cho further on stands the vill. of Tatsumachi, and 1J ri more journeying brings the travel- ler to Siiwara (Inn, Sakura-ya), which lies in a more open part of the valley, near to the level of the river. At Hashiwa, a hamlet beyond Su- wara, skins of the great falcon (kuma-taka) and of the sheep-faced antelope (iwa-shika) are hung out for sale. From Nojiri (Inn, Furu-ya) to Midouo (Inn, Miyagawa) is the narrowest part of the valley ; the rocks are steep, and the road over- hangs the rushing stream. In many places it is laid on ledges built out from the rock, and at one point passes over a projecting rock by means of two bridges thrown across deep gullies. Tsumago (Inn, Matsu- shiro - ya) is but a poor place. The road now ascends the Mago- me-toge by a gentle gradient. The summit commands an extensive view of the province of Mino, with its low-lying, somewhat bare and sandy hills. On the other side of the pass is the vill. of Ma go me (Inn, Kuno-ya), perched on the top of a wooded hill cut into terraces for the cultivation of rice. The descent from Magome is called the Jik-koku-toge, said to be a cor- ruption of Jik-kyoku, or " ten turn- ings." About 400 ft. below Magome, a post marks the boundary between, the provinces of Shinshu and Mino. Ochiai lies in a hollow by the side of an affluent of the Kiso-gawa, which latter river here again comes in sight to the r. The road now crosses the spurs of Ena-san until reaching Nakatsii-gawa (Inn, *Hashiriki), which is situated close to the base of that mountain (see p. 243). From here the way is mostly hilly on to *)i (Inn, Ishikawa). 282 Route 36. — Voyage from Yokohama to Kobe. [Between Oi and Mitake, a dis- tance of 8 ri along the Naka- sendo, 1 ri may be saved by diverging along branch roads called the Shimo Kaido and Naka Kaido, passing through the village of Kamado (Inn, Suzuki), and avoiding the climb over the Ju-san-toge. On this route lies a gorge lined with great black boulders of curious shape, known by such names as the " The Devil's Washing- Basin," "The Hanging Bell Rock," etc. Crystals and peb- bles of various colours are found here. The Shimo Kaido also leads to Nagoya via Oiwake and Utsutsu, about 18 ri, mostly feasible for jinrikishas.] The road from Oi to Qkute lies over a succession of hills called the Ju-san-toge, or Thirteen Passes, none of which are very high. From an elevation above the Shichi-hon- matsu-zaka, or Hill of the Seven Pine-Trees, there is a grand view of both Ontake and Koma-ga-take. The general aspect of the surrounding hills is bare. Ok iite (Inn, Yamashiro-ya) is a neat town on the level. Between here and Hosolviife (Inn, Matsu-ya), the road passes over a series of hills called collectively the Bhva-toge. At Hosokute the traveller should ask for tsugumi, a kind of thrush preserved in yeast (koji-zuke), which is delicious when slightly roasted, and forms a welcome addition to monotonous travelling fare. Passing through Mitake (Inn, Kawaguchi-ya) and Fusliimi, we cross the Kisogawa to Ota (Inn, Iwai-ya), from which place the river is navigable. The road follows the r. bank of the river among pine-trees. Glimpses of the stream may now and then be caught as it foams over its rocky bed at the foot of dark, rugged hills, whose covering of dwarf trees looks at a distance like a veil of green gos- samer. Lower down, the Kisogawa. becomes a broad and deep river ; and the road, which crosses a level grassy plain, calls for little remark. Gifu (see p. 274:). ROUTE 36. By steamer from Yokohama to Kobe.* While steaming down Tokyo Bay,. there is a good view of Fuji with the Hakone range in the foreground on the r. ; on the 1. is the flat shore of the province of Kazusa. At 1 hr. the ship will be near Kwannon-zaki, on which there is a fixed white light visible 14 miles, showing a red ray in a certain direction to guide ves- sels clear of Saratoga Spit (Futtsu- saki) and .Plymouth Rocks to the southward. Powerful forts have been con- structed on Kwannon-zaki and on Saratoga Spit for the defence of the Bay. After passing Kwannon-zaki, the ship steers down the Uraga Channel, so called from the town of that name on the shores of a small harbour a few miles S.W. of Kwannon-zaki, which was formerly the port of entry for Tokyo Bay. At 2 hrs. Tsurugi-saki, the south end of the chanuel, is rounded, where there is a light visible 24 m. Thence the track lies S.W. to Rock Island across the Bay of SagamL which opens on the i\, and close past the north end of Vries Island, described in Route 8. From 4 to 6 hrs. the ship will be running almost parallel to the coast of the peninsula of Izu, within 10 m. of the shore. A fine prospect may be enjoyed of its rugged mountain * The expressions ' at 1 hour,' 'at 2 hours,' etc., in the description of this voyage, signify ' when the steamer has been 1 hour out of Yokohama,' '2 hours out of Yokohama,' etc., taking 12 knots per hour as the average speed. Whaling off the Coast of Kishu. 283- chain, with Fuji which towers be- hind, bearing N.W. The island beyond Vries, looking like a cocked- hat, is Toshima, the second of the Seven Isles of Izu. At 6 hrs. Rock Island (Mikomoto), off the extreme S. of Izu, is reach- ed ; on it is a fine light visible 20 m. From Rock Island, the direct route is W.S.W. to the S.E. extremity of the province of Kishu. This course, which is followed in the summer months, leads the ship so far off shore that there is little to be distinguished. But in winter the N.W. winds generally blow so strongly that, to avoid the heavy sea, the ship, after passing Rock Island, is kept due W., crossing the mouth of Suruga Gulf, and at 9 hrs, is off Omae-saki, distinguish- able at night by a red light visible 19 m. Fuji is now 60 m. distant, and will not be seen much after this point except in clear winter weather. From Omae-saki the track recedes for some hours from the land, which, being low, is not particularly in- teresting ; and if the ship left Yoko- hama just before sunset, this part will be passed in the night. At 13 hrs. the ship is off Owari Bay, a deep bay stretching some 30 m. to the northward, narrow at the en- trance, but widening out consider- ably inside. It is from Omae-saki to this point that the voyage is generally most trying to bad sailors. At 15 hrs. the ship is off Cape Shima, whence to Oshima is a run of 70 m., gradually approaching the land, where fine views of the bold and picturesque mountains of the pro- vinces of Kishu and Yamato are to be had. This Oshima is of course different from the Osliima (Vries Island )_ mentioned above. There are numerous Oshima's off the Japanese coast, • which is not to be wondered, at, as. the name simply means "big island." This particular Oshima has been the scene ' of repeated maritime dis- asters. The most terrible in recent years was -the foundering of the Turkish man-of- war "Ertougroul '' on the 16th September, 1890, when 502 _ men perished out of a crew of 571.' ' Oshima and its neighbour- hood form an important whaling centre. The whaling guilds conduct their opera- tions according to an elaborate system, described by Rev. R. B. Grinnan in the Japan Mail. Minute laws regulate the construction of the boats and weapons employed, and the functions of the various classes of men engaged. The following description of the modus operandi is some- what condensed : — " The signals are a very important part of the work. Men with glasses are arranged on three differ- ent mountains, one above the other. The man from the highest point, being able to see furthest, gives the first notice as to the approach of a whale by lighting a fire and raising a smoke, and at the same time by means of his flag he signals to the men on the mountain below, and they in turn signal to the boats. It is neces- sary for the men in the boats to know beforehand what kind of whale is coming, also his size and distance from the land ;. for the attack differs according to these three things. The species of the whale is known in most cases by the manner in which the water is spouted up. The first thing to be done when the boats move out, is to put down the nets across the path of the whale. This is rather dim- cult to do correctly, for in the first place they must be arranged according to the species of the whale. Another thing to be calculated on is the strength and course of the tide. One fighting boat goes to each net boat, to assist in arrang- ing the nets in their proper order. Not all of the nets are put down at first. The nets that are put down are placed one after the other in parallels, with slight curves, with short spaces inter- vening. After the first net is laid, the others are all arranged a little to the right or left, so that when all the nets are down they slant off to one side or the other, and thus cover a broader space across the path of the whale. As soon as the nets are arranged, the net boats draw off on each side and look on. Then some of the fighting boats go around behind the whale to attack from that point, while others arrange them- selves on the sides so as to drive the whale into the nets. Those from behind strike with the harpoons and run the lines out. The whale then rushes for- ward, and must be driven into the nets. Then a wild scene ensues, and every effort is made to surround the whale that is making frantic efforts to escape. He often does escape ; but if he does not, he is soon surrounded by nearly three hun~ dred naked yelling men, who throw har- poons and stones in such numbers that the huge prey is overcome. It is really an awful as w r ell as pitiable sight ; for the noble animal until very weak makes furious efforts to escape, rushing forward and then diving and coming up again to beat the sea into a bloody foam, at times smashing the boats or overturning them ; 284 Route 36. — Voyage from Yokohama to Kobe. and above all the din and yelling of the men, can often be heard the plaintive cry of the whale as the deadly weapons sink deep into his flesh. Before the whale is dead, and while he is rushing forward, a man with a very sharp knife leaps on his back near the head, and slashes two great gashes into the flesh and passes a large rope several times around, in the flesh, leaving a loop on the outside ; the same kind of loops are made in the flesh nearer the tail. This is done in order that the whale may be tied up between two large boats to beams stretched across, and thus kept from sinking when he dies. In this way he is carried in triumph to the shore. The operation of cutting the holes and putting in the ropes is only done by the bravest and most skilful men (nazashi). While the holes are being cut and the ropes pass- ed in, the man must hold on to the whale, a,nd even go down with him into the water . if he dives ; for if he lets go, he is liable to be struck by the whale's tail and killed. The only thing to do is to tuck his head down and cling to the animal by the holes he has cut. He cannot raise his head, because he will at once be blinded by the water being driven into his eyes. When the fight draws to a close and the huge mammal is dying, all the whalers pray for the ease of the departing spirit by calling out Jdraleu ! J or aha ! Joralcu ! in a low deep tone of voice. Again, on the third day after the whale is talc en, a memorial ser- vice is held and prayers offered for the repose of the departed soul. If a baby whale is captured, a special matmri is held on the ninth day afterwards. As soon as the whale is landed he is cut up, and it is a fearful sight ; for the men strip them- selves of all clothing, and hack ami cut like madmen, all yelling at the same time with the greatest excitement. Some men even cut holes and go bodily into the whale, and, coming out all covered with blood, look like horrid red devils. Most of the whales taken are about 50 ft. long." From 16 hrs. to 29 hrs. is gene- rally considered the most enjoy- able part of the run from Yoko- hama to Kobe, and the traveller should make a point of being on deck as much as possible. Rounding Oshima, which is mark- ed by a red light visible 18 miles, at 20 hrs., the vessel is close enough to the shore to note the thickly studded fish- ing villages, whose fleets of boats cover the water for miles. Half an hour's steaming from Oshima brings us to Shio Misaki, on which is a light visible 20 m., intended to guide vessels from the eastward. Prom Shio Misaki the track lies close along the shore — sometimes within 2 m., seldom more than 4 m. — to Hiino Misaki, a run of about 60 m., which, if made in daylight, will be even more enjoy- able than the 70 miles mentioned above. The hills of the bold and rugged coast of Kishu to the r. abound in pheasants, deer, boars, and monkeys. The land now visible on the 1. is the East coast of the Island of Shikoku. At 25 hrs. the ship is off Hiino Misa- ki, and after steering due North for 26 m., will pass through Izumi or Yura Strait, which is about 6 m. wide, the passage for ships being narrowed to 2 m. by two islands called Ji-no-shima and Oki-no- shima, on the W. side of which latter is a lighthouse. Observe both r. and 1. how the heights have been levellel for the erection of forts to protect this approach to Osaka and Kyoto. From Izumi Strait to Kobe is a run of 30 m. across a completely landlocked bay, with the large Island of Awaji on the 1. Kobe is generally reached at from 28 to 30 hrs., weather being favourable. The highest hill seen to the r., with white temple build- ings sparkling in the sun, is Maya- san; the highest away to the 1. behind Hyogo is Takatori. Passenger steamers usually re- main 24 hrs. at Kobe, which gives travellers an opportunity to visit Kyoto. The chief distances of the run between Yokohama and Kobe, as made by the Nippon Yusen Kwai- sha's steamers, are as follows : — Yokohama to : — Miles. Lightship 2. Kwannon-zaki 14. Cape Sagami 23. Rock Island 74. Oshima 244,. Hiino Misaki 297. Oki-no-shima 322. Hyogo Point 346. Company's Buoy . , 348. SECTION IV. WESTERN JAPAN AN INLAND SEA. (Routes 57 — 50. ^Pepart^ KOBE^SW: i, ;Jp"" ' ~::;;:.ZJ$zzw~. *MS.A BAY ©©ASIA ahb H®BE Route 37. — Kobe and Neighbourhood. 287 ROUTE -87. Kobe and Neighbourhood. jjkuta. nunobiki waterfalls, su wa - yama. maya - san ( the moon temple). futatabi - san. obu. momiji - dera. taisanji. takarazuka. bismarck hill. suma, maiko, and akashi on the sanyo railway. mino. ari- ma. rokko-san. hyogo. Kobe. Hotel. — Oriental. Japanese Inn. — Tokiwa. Consulates. — British ( including Austro-HuDgarian and Spanish), •and German (including Italian), on the Bund ; American, No. 15, Settlement; French, No. 21. Banks. — Hongkong and Shanghai Bank, No. 2, Bund; Agents for Chartered Mercantile Bank, No. 7 ; Agents for Chartered Bank of In- dia, Australia and China, No. 26. Churches. — Union Protestant Church (Anglican and Congrega- tional services), No. 48; Roman Catholic, No. 37. Curio-dealers. — Museum of Arts and Manufactures, No. 30, Settle- ment, a foreign store. Native Curio-shops. — Echigo-ya and various others in Moto-machi ; on the r., stands a temple with a little pavilion overlooking the stream — a favourite spot for picnics. 18. Arima., also called Yuyama (Inns, Sugimoto-ya, Masuda-ya with European food and beds), the favour- ite hill station and summer resort of the Kobe residents, lies 9 m. from Kobe as the crow flies, and is 1,400 it. above sea level. The air is cool, the scenery pretty enough though not remarkable, and pleasant rambles may be taken in the vicinity. The arrangements at the mineral springs are not specially adapted for foreign visitors ; but all the inns have an abundance of beautifully clear, cold water. Arima may be most easily reached by taking the train to Sumiyoshi, 15 min., and then walking over the Rokko-san Pass, a distance of 8 m. for which 3 hrs. must be allowed. Persons incapable of walking so far can hire chairs at Sumiyoshi station, and get carried up in 4 hrs. The pass, which is about two-thirds of the way to Arima, lies 3,000 ft. above the sea. From the top of Rokko- san itself, 200 ft. higher, a fine view may be obtained. A pleasant round from Kobe is by train to Nishinomiya, thence b}^ jin- rikisha (two men necessary) to Takarazuka, 2J ri, and Arima, 3 ri 12 did more ; thence back to Kobe over Rokko-san. Time, about 8 hrs. If this trip be reversed or the start be made late in the day, one may advantageously sleep at Takarazuka. 19. It is easy from Kobe to visit the large and interesting Island of Awaji, which forms the subject- matter of Route 49, and to start on a tour down the Inland Sea or to Shikoku (Routes 50-55). Hyogo. Hyog'O (Inn, Tokiwa) adjoins Kobe on the S.W. It begins just beyond the Minato-gawa, which is easily distinguished by the tall pine- trees lining its banks. The bed of this river, like many others along this coast, is raised to a consider- able height above the surrounding country, owing to the masses of sand and pebbles continually swept down from the neighbouring hills. It is generally dry, except im- mediately after heavy rain. The banks have been neatly laid out so as to form a public walk, which leads to the Shinto temple erected since the Restoration of 1868 to the memory of the loyal warrior Kusunoki Masashige. Hyogo, under the earlier name of Buko, had existed as a port from very ancient days. It rose into prominence in the latter pa,rt of the 12th century, when Kiyomori removed the capital from Kyoto to Fukuwara in the immediate vicinity. This change of capital only lasted six months— from the 28th June, 1180, to the 20th December of the same year; but Kiyomori' s partiality for the place left permanent elf ects, he having diverted the bed of the Minato-gawa to its present course so as to prevent it from flooding the town, and having constructed the artificial island of Tsukijima which sub- sists to this day. The stony bed of the Minato-gawa was the scene, in A.D. 1336, of a bloody battle between the partisans of the rightful Emperor Go-Daigo, and Takauji, founder of the Ashikaga line of Shoguns. Tn this battle the famous loyal warriors Nitta Yoshisada and Kusunoki Masashige suffered a crushing defeat, after which Masashige, rather than fly, committed harakiri. Hyogo' s chief sight is the Daibic- tsu, or great bronze Buddha, erected in 1891 in the precincts of the temple of Nofukuji. It is 48 ft. high, and 85 ft. round the waist ; length of face, 8Jft.; eye, 3 ft.; ear, 6 ft. ; nose, 3£ ft. ; mouth, 2J ft. ; dia- 292 Route 38, — Osaka and Neighbourhood. meter of lap, 25 ft. ; and circum- ference of thumb, 2 ft. This large work owed its inception to the piety of a paper manufacturer of Hyogo, named Nanjo Shobei, Though by no means equal to the ancient Daibutsu at • Kamakura, the face is better than that of the Nara Daibutsu. The visitor is taken into the interior of the image, where is an altar to Amida, besides a number of lesser images (four of which are by Unkei, viz. those of Ka- sho, Anan, an elephant, and a lion), bells, tokko, wheels of the law, etc. The naked infant is what is called a Tanjo-Shaka (see p. 48). The numerous mirrors hung up here are gifts from the faithful. When sufficient funds shall have been collected, a five-storied pagoda is to be erected on an adjacent plot of ground. Not far from Nofukuji is ano- ther Buddhist temple, called Shin- kdji, with a bronze image of Amida, which, though much smaller than the Daibutsu, is a remarkable work of art. It is, moreover, pretti- ly placed on a large stone pedestal in front of a lotus pond, so that the effect is charming when those flowers are out. The temple itself is plain, but well-preserved. On the opposite side of the road is a stone Monument to Kiyomori, in the shape of a small thirteen-storied pagoda. About 10 min. further on is Wada no Misaki, a point of land which juts out into the sea and is a favourite pleasure resort of the citizens, on account of the view, the finest in the whole neighbourhood. A trifle enables the visitor to enter the grounds of the Wa- raku-cn, where are tea-houses, fish- ponds, flower-shows from time to time, and a two-storied edifice, from whose roof a good view may be enjoy- ed. The high land seen ahead is that separating the provinces of Izumi and Kishu. The large island of Awaji lies to the r., divided from the mainland by Akashi Strait. The low round tower in front of the Waraku-en is the remnant of an ancient fort. The large Shinto temple passed both in going from Kiyomori's monument to Wada-no- Misaki, and also on the way back thence to Kobe, is called Wada no Myojin. A short morning will suf- fice for the sights of Hyogo, if done in jinrikisha. EOUTE 38. Osaka and Neighbourhood. 1. the city: the mint, tenjin sama, kozu-no-miya, ikudama-no- jinja, tennoji, dotombori, hon- gwanji temfles. 2. neighbour- hood : sumiyoshi and sakai. 1.— The City of Osaka. Osaka, also pronounced Ozaka, is reached by the Tokaido Railway from Kobe in a little over 1 hr., and from Kyoto in 1J hr. Hotel. — Jiyutei, in Nakanoshima, 10 min. from the Tokaido Railway station. The curious bronze monument shaped like a lighted candle, which stands just outside this hotel, is a memorial raised in 1882 to the loyalist soldiers who fell in the Satsuma and other civil wars. Japanese Inn. — Tokiwa. Japanese Restaurant. — Seikwan- ro. Post and Telegraph Offices. — At the Umeda Railway station, at Shinsai-bashi, at Korai-bashi, and in the Foreign Settlement. Theatres. — In the Dotombori. Curio Dealers. — Yamanaka, Ogu- ni, and others at Korai-bashi. Porcelain Decorator. — Yubei Mei- zan, 197 Yashiki. Silk Mercers. — Mitsui, at Korai- bashi ; Daimaru, in the Shinsai- bashi-suji ; and Obashi-ya in Mido- suji. Sakai Bugs. — Mitani, in Hon- machi. History and Topography, The Castle. 293 There are many good shops of various kinds in the Shinsai-bashi- suji. The bazaars (kwankoba) de- serve a visit. The best are the Furitsu Hahubutsu-jo between Ume- da Station and Tennoji, the Shdhin Mihon Chinretsu-jo in Dojima, and the Shogyo Club at Imamiya. For Steam Communication to Awaji and Inland Sea ports, see Routes 49 and 50. Railway Stations. — There are three, viz., one at Umeda for the Tokaido, one in Minato-cho for Nara, and one at Namba for Sumiyoshi and Sakai. Each of these stations is about 20 min. by jinrikisha from the others. History and Topography.— This wealthy commercial city covers an area of nearly 8 square miles. The earliest nse of the name Osaka occurs in a document dating from the end of the 15th century, where it is applied to part of the township of Ikudama. The undent name of the city, still used in poetry, was Nanhca, said to be a corrup- tion of nami hay a " wave-swift," or nami hana "wave flowers," because the fleet of Jimmu Tenno here encountered a boister- ous sea on its arrival from Hyuga. This word is alsojound in Namba, the name of one of the Osaka railway stations^ In 1583, Hideyoshi resolved to make Osaka the seat of his power, judging that he could from this position most easily domi- nate the Daimyos of the South and West. The city of' Osaka lies upon the banks of the Yodogawa, the river draining Lake Biwa. Nakanoshima, an island in the centre of the stream, divides the river into two courses of about equal width. The scene here on summer eve- nings is of the gayest description. Hun- dreds of boats float lazily upon the water, filled with citizens who resort thither to enjoy the cool river breezes, while itine- rant musicians, vendors of refreshments and fireworks, etc., ply amongst the merry throng doing a thriving business. The city is also intersected by numerous canals, which necessitate a great number of bridges, and give it an appearance which may remind some travellers of Hol- land. Osaka always suffers to a greater degree than other cities in the Empire from epidemics, probably due to contami- nation carried by so much water com- munication. The three great bridges across the Yodogawa are the Temma- bashi, Tenjin-bashi and Naniwa-bashi. The principal thoroughfare is called Shin- sai-bashi-suji, which its fine shops, thea- tres, and bustling aspect render one_of the most interesting streets, not only in Osaka, but in Japan. In summer, this street derives quite an Oriental appearance from the curtains stretched across it to keep out the sun, and from the bright hues of many of the articles of merchandise. The Foreign Settlement is situated at Kawaguchi, at the junction of two streams. Close by are the Custom Houses, and the wharves for the steamers that ply between Osaka and Kobe, Shikoku, and the ports of the Inland Sea. Osaka, for all its bustle and prosperity, has not fulfilled the expectations formed of it as a centre of foreign trade. The affairs of the foreign municipality are managed by a committee constituted in the same way as at Kobe. The Castle (0 Shiro). Permits can be obtained on application at the Osaka Fu (City Office), \ hr. from Jiyutei's, open daily from 9 to 4, except Sunda3'S and national holidays, and on Saturdays only till noon. The application must be made personally, as it has to be signed, but only one of a party need present himself. The permit must be used the same day, and given up to the sentry. When Hideyoshi set about the building- of this castle in 1583, labourers were drawn from all parts of the country (ex- cept the domain of Ieyasu), and the work was completed in two years. The palace thus raised within the castle was pro- bably the grandest building which Japan ever boasted. It survived the taking of the castle by Ieyasu in 1615; and in 1867 and 1868 the members of the foreign legations were received within its walls by the last of the TokugawaShoguns. Will Adams, and his contemporary Captain John. Saris, give in the quaint style of those days, a good idea of the splendour of the palace and the extent of the city at the opening of the J 7th century. Adams says : — "I was carried in one of the King's gallies to the court at 0sdca, where the King lay about eightie leagues from the place where the shippe was. The twelfth, of May 1 600, I came to the great King's citie who caused me to be brought into the court, beeing a wonderfull costly house guilded with gold in abundance.*' Saris' account is as follows : "We found Ozaca to be a very great towne, as great as London within the walls, with many faire timber bridges of a great height, seruing to pass ouer a riuer there as wide as the Thames at London. Some faire houses we found there but not many. It is one of the chiefe sea-ports of all Iapan : hauing a castle in it, mar- uellous large and strong, with very deepe trenches about it, and many draw- bridges, with gates plated with yron. The castle is built all of free-stone, with 294 Route 38. — Osaka and Neighbourhood. bulwarks and battlements, with loope holes for sraal shot and arrowes, and diuers passages for to cast stones vpon the assaylants. The walls are at the least sixe or seuen yards thicke, all (as I said) of free-stone, without any filling in the inward part with trumpery, as they reported vnto me. The stones are great, of an excellent quarry, and are cut so exactly to fit the place where they are laid, that no morter is used, but onely earth cast betweene to fill vp voy'd creuises if any be." — Excluding the palace, this remains an excellent descrip- tion of the locality as seen to-day. The huge stones forming the walls of the principal gate of the castle attest the magnificent design of its founder. Out- side the present fortress ran a second line of moat and parapet, the destruction of which was made a condition of peace by Ieyasu after the first siege in 1614. The moat varied in width from 80 yds. to l l 20 yds., and in depth from 12 ft. to 21 ft.; but it was completely effaced in about three weeks' time. On the '.'nd Feb., 1868, the buildings within the castle were set on fire by a train laid by the Tokugawa party before their final retreat, and were completely destroyed in a few hours. The castle now serves as the Head- quarters of the Osaka garrison. The size of the stones, all granite, used in the construction of the walls is stupendous. Some measure as much as 40 ft. long by 10 ft. in height, and are several ft. in thick- ness. The moats are paved with granite throughout. The view from the top of the platform on which stood the donjon (tensMc), is very extensive, embracing such distant objects as Hiei-zan to the N.E., Koya-san to the S., Kongo-san and other high mountains of Yama- to to the S.E. Immediately below is a noted well called the Kimmci- sui, lit. " Famous Golden Water," which furnished a sufficient supply for the garrison in time of siege. The following are the other chief places of interest in Osaka, begin- ning with those nearest to the To- kaidd Railway station, and making the round of the city. One day is sufficient for the whole. The Mint (Zdhei-hyoku), about 20 min. in jinrikisha from the station, organised iu 1871, with a staff of British officials, has been under Japanese management since 1889. It now produces almost exclusively silver and copper coins. Besides the Mint proper, there are sulphuric acid works and a refinery. Tenjin Soma, on theN. side of the river, not far from the Tenjin-bashi, is a popular temple sacred to Sugawara-no-Michizane, and found- ed in the 10th century. The princi- pal festival is held on the 25th June. The temple contains some good carvings, and the ex-voto sheds several pictures of merit. Crossing the river by the Tenjin-bashi, and proceeding S. for about 1 m., we reach Kozu-no-iiiiya, on a hill to the 1., which commands a fine view W. over the town. This temple is dedicated to the Emperor Nintoku, born 278 A.D. according to the re- ceived chronology. In the florist's garden (Kichisuke's) at the foot of the hill, the show of peonies at the end of April is among the finest in Japan. The Kangiku-en chrysan- themum show in the same district well deserves a visit in November. The Ikuriama Jinja, a little further S. up a flight of steps, is a picturesque Shinto shrine dedicat- ed to the patron deities of the city,, and fabled to have been founded by Jimmu Tenno on the spot where- the castle now stands. Hideyoshi removed the temple to its present site about the j^ear 1596. The view from the new votive hall (Ema-do) at the back, looking towards the strait of Akashi, is pretty. About 1 m. further S. stands the famous Buddhist temple of Tennoji, which occupies an im- mense extent of ground on the S.E. of the city. It was founded by the illustrious Im- perial devotee, Shotoku Taishi, about A.D. 600, but has frequently fallen into ruin, arid been renovated at the expense of either the Mikados or the Shoguns. On entering the great south gate, we find ourselves in a large open space, the centre of which is occu- pied by a square colonnade, open on the inner side. On the r. is a chapel called Taishi-do fs dedicated! Tenndji and other Temples. 295 to Shofcoku Taishi. It is a building of unpainted wood, roofed with thick shingles. Opposite this is a chapel containing the Indo no Kane, or "Bell of Leading," which is rung in order that the Saint-Prince may conduct the dead into Paradise. Dolls, toys, and children's clothes are offered up before it. Further on is a building which contains a curious stone chamber, with water pouring into it from the mouth of a stone tortoise. The names of those re- cently dead are written on thin slips of bamboo, and held at the end of a long stick in the sacred stream, which also carries petitions to Shotoku Taishi on behalf of the departed souls. Be- yond, is a pond with live tor- toises. It is partly covered over by a large new stone dancing stage, which also serves as a bridge to the RoJcuji-do temple opposite. Close by is another Indo-no-kane. From the gallery at the top of the lofty five-storied pagoda, the whole city and surrounding country can be seen. The Kondo, or Golden Hall, is about 54 ft. by 48 ft., and the highly decorated shrine within is dedicated to Nyo-i-rin Kwan- non. The image, which is copper gilt, is said to have been the first Buddhist image ever brought to Japan from Korea ; but that honour is also claimed by the triple image at Zenkoji (see p. 207). Various treasures dating from the 7th and 8th centuries are preserved at Tennoji. Returning by the same streets to the entrance of Kozu-no-Miya, and going W., we soon find ourselves by the side of the Dotombori canal, in a street consisting chiefly of thea- tres, variety shows, and_ restaur- ants. This part of Osaka is especially interesting at night. Turning to the r. at the Ebisu- bashi, we cross into the Shinsai- bashi-suji, about half-way down which, a little to the 1., are" the two temples of the Hongwanji sect of Buddhists. The first is the Higashi Hongwanji, built about the year 1615. It contains some fine massive open-work carvings. The Nishi Ilongwanji stands a few hundred yards further north in the same street. Its gateway is a beautiful example of the application of the chrysanthemum in tracery and open-work carving. On the main altar is a statue of Ami da 3 ft. 6 in. high, with the abbot Shinran Shonin on his L, in a richly carved and gilded shrine. 2. — Neighbourhood of Osaka. The principal places of interest in the immediate neighbourhood of Osaka are Sumiyoshi and Sakai, both reached by the Hankai Rail- way. Trains run from either end at intervals of 40 min. throughout the day. Hankai Railway. 111. 5 lo Names. of Stations. Remarks. 61 C'SAKA (Namba) Tenpfa-jaya. S amiy oslii * Alight for \ temple. SAKAI. The Large embankment seen be- tween Osaka and Tenga-jaya is that of the Kara Railway. Tenga-jaya is so called because Hideyoshi, when lord of the Em- pire, had a villa there, which is still maintained for the sake of its historical associations. It stands in a small grove visible to the 1. from the carriage windows. The name of this place is familiar to all Japanese theatre-goers, as the scene of a famous vendetta which is often represented on the boards. The en- trance to the temple of Sumiyoshi is passed just before reaching the station of that name. 296 lloute 38. — Osaka and Neighbourhood. The Temple of Smisiyoshi, de- dicated to the three gods of the sea who, according to the legend in the Nihougi, assisted the Empress Jingo in her expedition to Korea, is held in high veneration by the lower classes of Osaka, great crowds flock- ing to it on festival days (every U- no-hi, or "Day of the Hare"). Out- side are innumerable stone lanterns presented as ex-votos. In the pond, over which passes a semi-circular bridge, live a number of tortoises with water-weed growing on their backs. These are popularly known as mino-game, — from mmo, the grass- coat worn by peasants in rainy weather, and kame, a tortoise. The Yamato-gawa is crossed near its mouth before entering Sakai (Inns, B6kai-rd and several others on the sea-shore, with good view ; Satsuma-ya in the town on the Koya-san side), a large manufac- turing centre. Its fine beach called Chinu-ga-ura, which is lined with tea-houses, attracts many visitors from Osaka during the summer months. The view thence includes Rokko-zan to the r., Kobe straight in front, the island of Awaji to the 1., and still further 1. the hills that separate the province of Izumi from Kishu. The lofty chimneys are those of brick kilns, and of coke and cotton factories. Sakai also produces a large amount of cutlery, sake, and cosmetic powder. But the most characteristic industry is the manufacture of excellent cotton rugs and carpets (Sakai dantsu). They are of two kinds, — ori-dashi {colours woven in), and some-komi (colours dyed). The former are much the handsomer and more durable. Hideous specimens are now made to foreign order. Sakai takes its name from its position close to the boundary of the three pro- vinces of Izumi, Settsu, and Kawachi, having been originally called Sakai no Tm, that is, Boundary Harbour. Until the end of the 11th century, when a fortress was built here by Yamana Ujikiyo, it was a mere village. Konishi Settsu-no-kami, one of Hide.yoshi's mosc distinguished officers and an early convert to Christian- ity, was born in this town, where his forefathers for several generations had carried on the business of druggists. Another equally celebrated native of Sakai was Sen-uo-Rikyu, a great favourite with Hideyoshi, and often regarded as the father of the tea-drinking ceremo- nial (Cha-no-yu). In the 16th century Sakai was one of the most flourishing of the Roman Catholic mission stations, and is frequently mentioned by the Jesuits and other early writers. Will Adams thus describes it: "Right over against Ozaca, on the other side of the riuer, lyetli another great Towne called Sacey, but not so bigge as Ozaca, yet is it a towne of great trade for all the Hands thereabout." The well-kept temple of Myokoku- ji, belonging to the Nichiren sect of Buddhists, has a three-storied pagoda with elaborate carvings by Hidari Jingoro. The sanctum in the main building is handsome. In the grounds are some far-famed specimens of the sotetsu (Cycas revoluta), often erroneously called the sago-palm. They were planted here by Miyoshi Ji- kyu about the middle of the 16th century. Ieyasu carried the best away to his own residence in 15S2, but finding that it re- fused to nourish there, restored it to its home. It is popularly believed that this plant, the name of which means "revival by iron," is much benefited by that metal, and accordingly iron coins and myriads of broken needles will here be noticed round the roots. The needles are thrown there by the women of the country side, for the purpose of giving the fittest sepul- ture to the most precious instruments of feminine toil. In the front court of this temple are buried eleven warriors of the Tosa clan, who were condemned to disembowel them- selves for having shot down the same number of unarmed French sailors in the spring of 1868. It must be remembered that this form of capital punishment, barbarous as it may seem to Europeans, was at that time recognised as a privilege of the samurai class, and preferred by them to simple decapitation. On the S.E. of the town is the Tumulus (misasagi) of Nintoku Tenno, a double mound. The north- ern summit is 84 ft., the southern 100 ft. high, while the circuit of the base measures 1,526 yds. It is surrounded by a double moat, and in the immediate neighbourhood are nine smaller tumuli. - ArACO-s AKASHI-YAMA' ^rjj-iu- 1l "".;::■ - i JJ I' £ji' ; «Jf OTSV / J'-. fr— OSAKA YAMA : * •}(""" //' OTOV/A -YAKA XT < '■^gff* J) y <> . V G TlaMun,, Station !€¥©¥€) Route 39. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. 29* EOUTE 39. Ky5to and Neighbourhood. environs : iwashimizu, atago- yama, rapids of the katsura- GAWA, UJI. Kyoto, also called Saikyo, is easily accessible from Kobe by local passport (see p. 287). The whole sur- rounding district is often spoken of as Kamigata. Hotels. — * Kyoto Hotel, also call- ed Tokiwa, in Kawara - machi ; *Yaami, fine view; Nakamura-ya, also called Niken-jaya. Japanese Inns. — Ikesho, Kashiwa- tei, in Kiyamachi. Japanese Restaurants. — Takemu- ra, Hachishin. Theatres and other places of amusement, in Shin Kyogoku ; two theatres in Shijd Kawa-Higashi. Telegraph and Post Office, in San- jo-dori Higashi-no-T6in. Kyoto is noted for its pottery and porcelain, its embroideries, cut vel- vets, and brocades, its bronzes, and its cloisonnes. The following shops may be recommended : — Pottery and Porcelain. — Kinko- zan, at Awata, where manufacture on a large scale for export is carried on ; Nishida, at Gojo-zaka. There are many other manufacturers and dealers in Kiyomizu and at Gojo- zaka, but they work mostly on a small scale. Embroidery, Velvets, and Mer- cery. — Takashima - ya, Orimono- Gwaisha, Nishimura, Daimaru, Tanaka Rishichi, and Ono (in Karasu-maru Shichijo). Bronze, Cloisonne', and other Metal-Work. — Shojodo (Jomi), in Teramachi Shijo-sagaru ; Kanaya Gorosa ; Namikawa at Shirakawa- bashi {cloisonne only). Curios (especially bronze, cloi- sonne, and porcelain) . — Boeki - Gwaisha, Kyukyodo, Takada, and Hayashi, at Furumon-zen ; Ikeda, at Shimmon-zen. The street called Manjuji-dori is almost entirely tenanted by curio-dealers of the more old-fashioned sort. Lacquer. — Nishimura, in Tera- machi. Bamboo-Work. — Wada, in Kiya- machi. Fans and Toys. — Nishida, at Higashi-no-T6in Shichi-jo ; Misaki, in Shichi-jd-dori Yanagi-no-Baba. Religious Services. — Presbyterian, every Sunday morning in the library of the Doshisha ; Roman Catholic Church, at the back of the Kyoto Hotel. The Mikado's Palaces (Gosho and Nijo no Rikyu), together with the Imperial villas (Katsura no Ri- kyu and Shugaku-in), are not open to the public, permits being obtainable only by visitors of special distinction. Kyoto's other greatest buildings are the San-ju-san-gen-do, Nishi Hongwanji, Kiyomizu, Gion, and Chion-in temples, in addition to which at least one of the cele- brated landscape gardens — say Kinkakuji or Ginkakuji — should be visited, as they are among the most characteristic products of Japanese estheticism. The best general view of Kyoto is usually considered to be obtained from a hill called Sho- gun-zuka, close to Maruyama on the E. side of the city, 1J hr. excursion from the Kyoto Hotel, but has been somewhat spoilt of late years by the growth of trees. Fairly good views of the city and neigh- bourhood may be gained with less trouble from the Shinto memorial to dead warriors (Shokon-hi) just above Kodaiji, and from the Yasaka Pagoda. Kiyomizu-dera, and the Yoshimizu tea-house close to the Yaami Hotel, also command charm- ing views. No one visiting Kyoto at the proper season should fail to see the Miyako-odori, a fascinating kind of ballet given every evening from 5 to 10 o'clock at Hanami-kdji, near the Gion-za Theatre, entrance 20 sen, first class. The performances generally begin in early April, and 298 Route 39* — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. last twenty nights. Very character- istic, too, is the manner in which the citizens take the air on summer evenings in that part of the bed of the Kamogawa which is crossed by the Shijo Bridge. Little tables are placed in the dry spaces, to which miniature bamboo bridges lead from either bank ; and there the people sit eating and drinking, and fan- ning themselves, and listening to the music of singing girls. This is known as Shijo-gaivara no Sumimi. The various religious festivals {rnatsuri) at Kyoto are particularly curious and interesting, more es- pecially the Gion Matsuri on the 15th June, and the Inari Matsuri on the 9th April. Furthermore, no one having money in his purse should fail to visit the shops, which are perhaps the most attrac- tive in Japan. Though a superficial acquaint- ance with Kyoto may be gained in a couple of days, at least a week is necessary to form an adequate idea of its manifold beauties. Owing to the gradual shrinking of the city in modern times, many of the best sights are some distance away in the country, and much time is spent in going from one to another. The following is offered as a sketch of the order in which the various sights of Kyoto may best be visited. Careful sightseers will scarcely be able to see all that we have crowded into one day for the guidance of such as are pressed for time ; but they can resume next day at the point where they left off, as the order follows regularly round the points of the compass, begin- ning with the north-central portion of the city : — 1st Day. — The Mikado's Palace, — even a passing glance at the ex- terior is better than nothing — Kita- no Tenjin, Hirano Jinja, Daitokuji, the Shinto shrine of Ota Nobunaga, Kinkakuji, T6ji-in, Omuro Gosho (if rebuilt and open to the public, which is doubtful, as it now ranks among the Imperial Palaces), Uzu~ masa, Seiryuji, Arashi-yama. 2nd Day. — The JSTijo Palace (the exterior in any case), Nishi Hon- gwanji, Higashi Hongwanji, Toji, the Inari temple at Fushimi, T6- fukuji, San-ju-san-gen-do, Daibutsu. 3rd Day. — Kenninji, Nishi Otani, Kiyomizu-dera, the Yasaka Pagoda, Kodaiji, Shogun-zuka, Maruyama, Higashi Otani, Gion, Chion-in. 4th Day. — Nanzenji, Eikwandd, Kurodani, Shinny odd, the temple of Yoshida, Ginkakuji, Shimo- Gamo, Kami- Gam o. 5th Day. — Iwashimizu. 6th Day. — Atago-yama. 7th Day. — The Kapids of the Katsura-gawa. 8th Day.— Uji. 9th Day. — Hiei-zan. History and Topography. — From the earliest ages, the seat of the Mikado's rule was "generally in the province of Yamato ; but owing to the ancient custom of not continuing to inhabit the house of a deceased parent, the actual site was usually changed at the commencement of each reign. At the beginning of the 8th century the capital was established at Nara, where it remained until A.D. 784, when the reigning sovereign Kwammu moved to Nagaoka, a spot at the foot of the hills about ha If -way between Yam a- zaki and Arashi-yama in the province of Yamashiro. In 793, he selected a fresh site at the village of Uda in the same province, and transferred his Court thi- ther towards the end of the following year. In order to conciliate fortune, he is said to have bestowed on his new capi- tal the name of Heian-jo, or the City of Peace ; but this never came into use as the common designation of the city, which was spoken of as Mi.yako or Kyoto, the former being the Japanese, the latter the Chinese word for "capital city." When first laid out, the site measured nearly 3 m. from E. to W., and about 3| m. from N. to S. The Palace, which occupied about one-fifteenth of the area, was situated in the centre of the N. side, and a fine street 2S0 ft. wide led from the great gate down to the S. gate of the city. Nine wide streets, called Ichi-jo, Ni-jo, San-jo, and so on up to Ku-jo, intersected the city from E, to W., the widest of these measuring 170 ft., the narrowest somewhat less than half. Similar streets crossing them at right angles ran from N. to S., and between them at equal dis- tances were lanes each 40 ft. in width. A double ditch, backed by a low wall with a gate at the end of each principal street, surrounded the whole of this huge square. History and Topography. Mikado's Palace. 299 In 1 177 the Palace was destroyed by fire, and three years later the seat of govern- ment was removed by the all-powerful minister Kiyomori to Fukuwara, the modern town of Hyogo. The Court, how- ever, soon returned to Kyoto, where it re- mained stationary until 1868, Both the city and the Palace have repeatedly fallen a prey to the flames, and as often been rebuilt, as far as possible in the original style. The present Palace was erected after the great fire of 1£54 Since the foundation of Yedo in 1590, Kyoto has gra- dually declined in size and importance. Its population is only half of what it is estimated to have held during the middle ages; and from chichi- jo-dori south- wards, what once formed busy thorough- fares is now laid out in market gardens. Kyoto stands on the Kamogawa, which, for the greater part of the year, is a mere rivulet meandering over a wide pebbly bed. On the 1. bank of the river are the suburbs of Awata and Kiyomizu. The town of Fushimi to the 8. may also be accounted a suburb. The chief modern addition to the topography of Kyoto, besides the line of railway, is the Lake Biwa Canal which connects the neigh- bouring large lake with the Kamogawa, as described in Route 40. The nomenclature of the Kyoto streets, apparently complicated, is in reality quite simple, being founded on a reference to the points of the compass and to the con- tour of the land, which is slightly higher on the N. than on the S. Thus the expres- sion Shijb-dbri Teramachi Higashi iru sig- nifies that portion of the Shijo or Fourth Thoroughfare which lies a little to the E. of the East and West intersection of that thoroughfare by Teramachi. Teramachi- dbri Shijo sagaru signifies the portion of the North and South Thoroughfare called Teramachi lying a little to the South of the intersection of that thoroughfare by Shijo-dori, the term sagaru, to " descend," being naturally applied to the South, as a gam, " to ascend," is to the North. The lanes mentioned higher up are called Kbji, whence such addresses as Teramachi- dbri Ane-ga-Kbji, ^ T h.ich means, "-4weLane off the Teramachi Thoroughfare." Some curious artificial scars or clear- ings are observed on carefully scanning the pine-clad hills near the city. In these clearings bonfires are lighted every 18th August, at the close of the Bon festival (Feast of Lanterns). The most conspicuous of these marks is what is called the Dai Monji, or " Chinese cha- racter for Great," which is written thus, ^C. It is situated to the N.E. of the city. To the N.W. is th© Ilidari Dai Monji, or " Character for Great reversed," thus /*C> the difference between the two, though slight to European eyes, being instantly perceptible to any Japanese. There are several more of these marks, which the guide will point out. The Mikado's Palace (Gosho). This large mass of buildings covers an area of nearly 26 acres. It is con- fined within a roofed wall of earth and plaster, commonly called the Mi Tsuiji, and has six gates. The open space between the wall and the Palace was formerly covered with lesser buildings, in which the Knge, or Court Nobles, resided. It is now cleared and open to the public, and in the S.E. corner of it is a Bazaar (Hakubiitsu-kwan) open every year in spring. Visitors are now admitted into the Palace through the Mi Daiclo- Jcoro Gomon, or Gate of the August Kitchen, and are first shown into an ante-chamber where they sign their names in the Palace book. From there they are led into the Seiryoden, or Pure and Cool Hall. It is so-called from a small brook which runs under the steps. The foreign visitor to these Japanese palaces will probably think the term "cool" — not to say chilly and draughty— most appropriate. Exquisite as is the art displayed, no at- tempt was ever made towards heating or towards anything which Europeans would deem comfort. The Seiryoden faces E., and meas- ures 63 ft. by 46-J ft. Originally this suite of apartments was the ordinary residence of the sovereign; but in later times it was used only on the occasion of levees and important Shinto festivals, such as the worship of the Four Quarters on the morning of New Year's day. In one corner the floor is made of cement, on which earth was strewn every morn- ing, so that the Mikado might wor- ship his ancestors on the earth with- out descending to the ground. The papered slides are covered with ex- tremely formal paintings by Tosa Mitsukiyo. Observe the Mikado's throne, a sort of catafalque with delicate silk curtains of white, red, and black, the actual seat being a fine mat. The wood of this, as of all the buildings, is chamzecy- paris (hinoki), — the same species as is used for the construc- tion of Shinto temples. The crest BOO Rdute 39. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. everywhere displayed is the sixteen- petalled chrysanthemum. The roof- ing is of the kind termed hiwada- buki — a sort of thick shingling — tiles appearing only on the very ridge. The empty sanded courts, the white plaster, and the red pillars of the walls give to the Palace a pe- culiar aspect of solemnity, which is almost oppressive. Everything, even down to minutiae, had its name and function, and was never changed. For instance, the two clumps of bam- boo in front of the Seiryoden have each a name handed down from hoary antiquity, one being the Kan- chihu, the other the Go-chiku, appel- lations derived from Kan and Go, two kingdoms in ancient China. From the Seiryoden the visitor is conducted to the Shisliinden, which faces S. and measures 120 ft. by 63J ft. The name Shi-shin -d£n is explained as follows: shi is "purple," the true colour of the sky or heavens ; shin denotes that which is " mysterious " and hidden from the vulgar gaze ; den means " hall." This building was used for the enthronement of the Mikado, for the New Year's audi- ence, and other important ceremonies. The large paintings in the panels of this hall represent Chinese sages. The originals were executed in A.D. 888 by the famous Kose-no-Kanao- ka; but they were destroyed long ago, and the present pictures are merely copies of copies. The throne (Mi Chodai), though quite modern, is interesting. The stools on either side of it are intended for the Im- perial insignia, — the sword and the jewel. The silken curtains are re- newed every spring and autumn. Observe that the Mikado sat on a chair in this instance, as did all those here admitted to an audience. A flight of eighteen steps leads down into the court corresponding in number to the original series of grades into which the officers of go- vernment were divided. Those who were not entitled to stand on the lowest step were called Ji-gc, or " down on the earth," to distinguish them from the Ten-jo-bito, or " per- sons who ascend into the hall." On the 1. is a cherry-tree called Sakon no Sakura. When the Em- peror Kwammu first built the palace, he planted a plum-tree here ; but it withered away, and the Emperor Nimmyo (A.D. 834 to 850) replaced it by a cherry-tree. The present one was transplanted hither thirty-four years ago. On the r. side is the TJkon no Tachibana, a wild orange-tree, also a relic of ancient custom. SaJcon and TJkon were the names of ancient ranks, and the application of them to these trees may he compared to the knighting of the Sirloin of Beef by Charles II. A corridor leads from the Shishin- den to the O Gakitmonjo, or Im- perial study, where the Mikado's tutors delivered lectures, and where courts were held for the cultivation of poetry and music. The decora- tion of the sliding screens in this suite calls for special remark. Most of the rooms, as will be noticed by those acquainted with the Japanese language, take their names from the subjects delineated in them. The wild geese in the Gan no Ma are by Renzan (Gantoku), d. 1859 ; the screens of the Yamabuki no Ma are by Maruyama Oryu; the chrysan- themums in the Kiku no Ma, by Okamoto Sukehiko. The three rooms which form the audience chamber, called respectively Gedan, Chudan, and Jodan, are decorated with Chinese scenes. The wooden doors in the corridor are by Sho- mura Ryusho, Yoshida Kokin, Hara Nankei, and Murakami Seiju. North of the Imperial study, in, a building measuring 57 ft. by 33 ft., and facing S. towards a small separate court, is a suite of rooms called the On Mi Ma (August Three Rooms). Private audiences were granted here, and here the No (a kind of lyric drama) was witnessed at a distance by the Mikado seated on the upper floor. The No stage is under a separate roof, and cut off from the suit^e by a high paling, which was removed when a per- Mikado's Palace. Doshisha. Kitano Tenjin. 301 formance took place. The decora- tions of the rooms are in the Tosa style. The last suite of apartments to which visitors are now generally ad- mitted is the Tsune Goten, or Usual Eesidence of the Mikados, consist- ing of eleven rooms, which, from the 13th century onward, formed the retreat in which generations of Mikados lived and died. The centre room of the suite facing E. was His Majesty's ordinary sitting-room, the four on the N. being occupied by his female attendants. At the W. end of this suite was the Moshi no kuchi, literally "Opening for Speech," where men who had business with His Majesty stated their errand to the women, who then transmitted it to the Mikado. The Imperial bed- room was behind the sitting-room, and entirely surrounded by the other apartments, so that no one could get near His Majesty without the knowledge of his immediate at- tendants. Beyond the Tsune Goten lie the Noryoden, or Palace for Enjoying the Cool Air, which was reserved for the Mikado's private pleasures, and the Kita Goten, or Northern Palace, containing the apartments of the Heir Apparent. There were formerly also palaces for the Empress, Empress Dowager, and Princesses, besides various other buildings now destroyed or removed. For instance, the Kashiko-dokoro, or Fearful Place, in which was pre- served the sacred mirror of the Sun- Goddess, has been transferred bodily to Jirnmu Tenno's mausoleum in the province of Yamato. The large brick building noticeable on the hill r. on quitting the Palace, with three others north of it, belong to the Doshisliii, a Christian University founded in 1875 under the auspices of the American Board Mission. Connected with the same institution are a Girls' School, a Training School for Nurses, and a Hospital. Kitano Tenjin, commonly called Tenjin Sama, is a temple dedi- cated to the deity of that name. Entering through the great stone torii on the S., we find tea-houses, and stone lanterns presented by votaries of the god. A' small two-storied gate-house, gaudi- ly decorated in colours, forms the entrance to the temple enclosure. It is called the San-ko no Mon, or Gate of the Three Luminaries, i.e. the Sun, Moon, and Stars, from re- presentations of those heavenly bodies which can only be distinguish- ed with much difficulty among the carvings on the beams of the gateway. The oratory, built by Hide- yori in 1607, forms the N. side of a square, the other three sides being colonnades, with the Gate of the Sun, Moon, and Stars on the S. Its dimensions are 58 ft. by 24 ft. The cornice is decorated with colour in the style prevalent at that period. The chapel behind, 38 J ft. by 32 J ft., is separated from the oratory by a chamber paved with stone, having its roof at right angles to the roofs of the oratory and chapel. Behind is the Jinushi no Yashiro, or Temple of the Lord of the Soil, said to have been founded in A.D. 836, together with numerous other small shrines. The treasury is built of wooden beams, the section of each beam being a right-angled triangle with the right angle outside, a form of con- struction much followed in this por- tion of Japan. East of the colonnade are the kagura stage and the build- ing in which the god's car (mikoshi) is kept. The temple was founded by adherents of the Kyobu Shinto sect, and is still an excellent specimen of the mixed style which they affected. The numberless stone lanterns, the stone and metal bulls, the ex-voto shed with its grotesque pictures, the elaborately carved and painted gateways, the swaying lanterns, — all testify to a form of worship of the baser popular sort. One of the queerest features of the main build- ing is a set of framed pictures of the Thirty-Six Geniuses of Poetry, 302 Route 39. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. made of woven stuffs, which have heen presented by the manufac- turers, and thus serve as an advertisement. Pictures of the Thirty-Six Geniuses of Poetry are among the usual adornments of Shinto temples (see p. 105). Hirano Jhija. This temple de- serves passing notice as a good example of a place of worship rebuilt according to the architec- tural canons of Pure Shinto. The oratory is an open shed hung with pictures representing the Thirty-Six Geniuses. Beyond it are five chapels — two pairs con- nected by a watch-room, and one detached. They are dedicated to minor Shinto deities. The annual festival is held on the 2nd May. The cherry-trees in the grounds are much visited during the season of blossom, especially at night. They are of many varieties, and each tree has some fanciful, poetical name. Daitokuji. Daitokuji, belonging to the Zen sect of Buddhists, was founded by Daito Koku- shi, an abbot of the early part of the 14th century, to whom, as to so many others, a miraculous birth and precocious wisdom are ascribed. The manner of his concep- tion is said to have been that his mother dreamt one night that a wild-goose came flying towards her with an open blossom in its beak, and that soon afterwards she found herself to be with child. This once magnificent temple still merits a visit on account of its stately proportions. One of its gates — the Higurashi no Men, so called because a whole day might be spent in examining its carvings— should be specially noted ; also the fine gilt image of Shaka in the Garan-clo. Daitokuji is celebrated for the treas- ures stored away in its godowns. No temple in Japan, so it is averred, possesses an equally large number of valuable kakemonos. Though most of the best pieces are thus hidden from view, the Apartments richly deserve the careful scrutiny of all persons interested in Japanese pictorial art. The entire set of sliding doors (fusuma) dividing room from room was painted by Kano Tan-yu, from whose brush also are folding screens represent- ing scenery in China, the four seasons, children at play, etc. A pair of screens with splendidly coloured peacocks is by Okyo ; others by Kano Tanshin depict popular occupations and trades. The sepia drawing by Tan-yu of a man exhibiting a dancing monkey, which occupies one wall of the in- nermost room, is particularly famous. An interesting old por- trait bust in wood represents Ota Nobunaga. The Shinto shrine of Ota Nobu- siaga, on the slope of Funaoka- yama, is prettily situated near Daitokuji. The summit of the hill, which can be reached in a couple of minutes, commands a beautiful panorama of the city and surround- ing country. This temple was built in 1880 by private admirers of the hero, who is now wor- shipped as a Shinto god. KiiiKaknji, more properly Boku- onji, a monastery of the Zen sect, takes its popular name from the kin-kaku, or " golden pavilion," in the grounds attached to it. In 1397, Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, who had three years previously resigned the title of Shogun to his youthful son Yoshi- mochi, obtained this place from its former owner, and after extendiug the grounds, built himself a palace to serve nominally as a retreat from the world. Here he shaved his head, and assumed the garb of a Buddhist monk, while still continuing in reality to direct the affairs of state. The garden is artistically laid out. In the middle is a lake with pine-clad shores and pine-clad islets, whose quiet charm none would expect to find so near to a large metropolis. The lake is stocked with carp, which, when visitors appear there, crowd together at the stage below the Pavilion, in ex- pectation of being fed. All the palace buildings have disappeared. The Pavilion alone remains, much dimmed by age. It stands on the water's edge, facing S., and is a Kiiikakuji. Toji-in. three-storied building, 33 ft. by 24 ft. In the lower room are a seated effigy of Yoshimitsu in priest- ly garb with shaven pate, and gilt statuettes of Amida, Kwannon, and p&ishi, by the carver Unkei. In the second storey is a small Kwannon in an imitation rock-work cave, with the Shi-Tenno. The paintings on the ceiling by Kano Masanobu are now scarcely recognisable. The third storey was completely gilt, the gold being laid on thickly over varnish composed of hone powder and lacquer upon hempen cloth. The ceiling, walls, and floor were thus treated ; and even the frames of the sliding screens, the railing of the balcony, -and the small projecting rafters which form the roof of the balcony, were, as a careful examination will show, covered with the precious metal. Nearly all the gold has disappeared, but the original wood- work is complete, with the excep- tion of a few decayed boards that have had to be replaced. The effect, now so dingy, must have been dazz- lingly beautiful. On the top of the roof stands a bronze phoenix 3 ft. high, also formerly gilt. The large hill seen to the r. from the third storey of the Pavilion is Kinukasa-yama. This name means Silk Hat Mountain, und was given in allusion to the incident of the ex-Mikado Uda having ordered it to be spread with white silk one hot day in July, in order that his eyes at least might enjoy a cool, wintry sensation. The guide will probably offer to lead the traveller round the grounds at the back of the Pavilion, where Yoshimitsu's footsteps and doings are bracked with minute care, — the place where His Highness drank tea, the place whence the water for his tea came, the place where he washed his hands, etc. ; but these can have little interest for any but a Japanese. The Apartments, on the other hand, deserve careful in- spection, on account of the sliding screens which they contain by Kano Tan-yu and Jakuchu, of the folding screens by Korin and Soami, of the numerous^ kakemonos by Shubun, Eishin, Okyo, Korin, Sesson, and other celebrated artists, notably two by Cho Densu representing the three religious teachers Confucius, Chwang Tzu, and Buddha, besides various relics and autographs of the Ashikaga Shoguns and other illustrious personages. The priest who shows all these treasures some- times ends up by treating the visitor to tea in the clia-no-yu style. Toji-in, founded in the 14th cen- tury, by Ashikaga Takauji will interest the historical student as containing effigies of nearly all the Shoguns of the Ashikaga dynasty, beginning with Takauji in the centre chamber, a lacquered wooden seated figure in the court-robe called kari- gvnUf with the courtier's wand (shaku) in the r. hand, and wearing a tall black court cap (taka-eboshi). Opposite to him is Ieyasu (of the Tokugawa dynasty). In the next room are, beginning at the 1., *(2) Yoshinori, (4) Yoshimochi, (6) Yo- shinori II., (8) Yoshimasa, (10) Yoshiteru, and (12) Yoshizumi. The other room contains the effigies of (3) Yoshimitsu, (7) Yoshikatsu, who died at the age of ten, (9) Yoshinao, (11) Yoshitane, (13) Yoshiharu, a degenerate -looking, dwarfish man, and (15) Yoshiaki fat and sensual in appearance. Most, if not all, may be accepted as con- temporary portraits of the men they represent. Observe that in their time (14th, 15th, and 16th centuries), the Japanese fashion was to wear a moustache and small pointed beard. The Apartments of this monastery also contain various kakemonos by Kano Tan-yu and other famous artists. The sliding screens in sepia are all by Kano Sanraku. Those round one of the rooms de- pict the acts of devotion of the Four-and-Twenty Paragons of Filial Piety. * The numbers in brackets refer to the order of each in the dynasty to which they all belonged. 304 Route 39. — Kyoto arid Neighbourhood. During the period of ferment which preceded the restoration of the Mikado's authority, it was fashionable among the opponents of the feudal regime to load the memory of the Ashikaga Shoguns with insults that could not safely be offered in a direct manner to those of the reigning Tokugawa line ; and one morning in April, 1863, the people of Kyoto woke to find the heads of the effigies of Takauji, Yoshi- nori, and Yoshimitsu pilloried in the dry bed of the Kamogawa at the spot where it was then usual to expose the heads of the worst criminals. Several of the men concerned in this affair were thrown into prison, whence they where transferred to the custody of certain Daimyos, and not released for some years afterwards. Myoshinji is a large temple of the Zen sect, founded by Kwanzan Kokushi, an abbot of the 14th century. Omuro Oosho, also called Ninna- ji, is a monastery founded towards the end of his life by the Mikado Koko. In A.D. 899 the ex-Mikado Uda chose it as his place of retirement, and occupied the palace built for him here from 9<>l until his death in 931. In 890 a decree was issued constituting Ninnaji a resi- dence for " descendants of the Mikado," or Monzeki, as t,hey are called, a term applied extensively in later years to monasteries founded to provide homes for various members of the Imperial family, and also conferred as a title of distinction upon abbots of other than Imperial blood. The Mikado Shu j aim entered the priest- hood in 952, and took up his residence here, but no other ex-sovereign ever occu- pied it. Up to 1868 there had been thirty- three successive priest-princes, the last of whom was the present Prince Higashi Fushimi. Omuro Gosho was burnt down in 1887, and though now counting among the Imperial summer palaces, has only been partially restored. The grounds, which are spacious, show to best advantage during the season of the cherry-blossoms. There is a fine five-storied pagoda, which, with a few other of the lesser build- ings, escaped the fire. Half a ri beyond Omuro Gosho lies Takao, celebrated for its Momi- ji-yama, or " Maple Mountain," on one side of a romantic glen. There is a tea-house on the top with a delightful prospect, offering an ex- cellent spot for a picnic, especially in November, when the leaves turn crimson. UznniaSft, more properly called Koryuji, stands far out of the city at the end of the Nijo street. This very ancient Buddist temple is said to have been founded in A.D. 604 by Sho- toku Taishi, who consecrated it to certain Buddhists gods whose images had been brought from Korea. The principal edi- fice, called the Kodo, was however not erected till S' l .6, and this having been burnt down about 1150, the present struc- ture was built out of timber saved from the flames. The other buildings are of much later date — 17th and 18th centuries. This temple will have special attraction for the student of Japa- nese statuary, which can nowhere, except at Nara, be studied in such a multitude of very early specimens.* Most of them are about life-size or else half life-size. The most in- teresting of these wooden statues is one of Shotoku Taishi at the age of thirty-three, said to have been carved by himself. It is clad in a silken robe of imperial yellow, pre- sented by the Mikado at his ac- cession, in accordance with ancient custom. In its r. hand the image holds the courtier's wand, in its 1. a censer. Besides the yellow robe, it wears wide trowsers of white silk damask and a black court hat. The features have a perfectly natural expression, but the paint on the face has become discoloured by time. In the temporary Hondo are the Buddhist images from Korea. The most important of these is a gilt wooden figure of Nio-i-rin Kwannon, about 3 ft. high, seated upon a stool, the r. foot lifted and laid on the 1. knee, the 1. hand resting on the r. foot. The face is supported on two long fingers of the r. hand. Drapery formal. The hair is drawn back from the fore- head, and tied in a knob at the top. * He will of course remember that many of these, though called Japanese, are either Korean or else carved under the instruction of Korean teachers. See the very interesting opening pages of Ander- son's Catologve of Japanese and Chinese Paintings in the British Museum. Uzitmasa. Saga. Arashi-yama. Nijo Palace. 305 The features are quite natural, and wear a pensive expression. The hands are beautifully modelled, the arms rather thin, though showing a good idea of form ; but the feet have been restored in a clumsy manner. The gold has been nearly all rubbed off. Bound the shrine are the "Twelve Divine Generals" (Ju-ni-ten), who so frequently accompany the god Yakushi, of which latter there is an image dating from the 9th century. A curious feature is a box about 1J ft. square, containing no less than 1,000 microscopic images of Jizo (Sen-tai Jizo). Saga no Shaka-dft, more pro- perly called Seiryuji, is a large temple of the Jodo sect of Bud- dhists, to which lads and girls thir- teen years old make a pilgrimage on the 13th day of the 3rd moon in order to obtain wisdom — a pilgrimage which accordingly goes by the name of the Ju-san Mairi. The present building is about two centuries old. Behind the altar is a magnificent gilt shrine of Shaka, with painted carvings presented by the mother of Iemitsu, third Shogun of the Tokugawa dynasty. On the doors being opened, a curtain is drawn up, which discloses another set of doors, gilded and painted, and then a second curtain splendidly em- broidered. R. and 1. are seated images of Monju and Fugen. The image of Shaka is said to be Indian, and to have been executed from, life by the sculptor Bishukatsuma (Vishvakar- man) ; but it has more the appearance of a Chinese work. Chonen, a monk of Todai- ji at Nara, is said to have brought it over in the year 987. According to the legend, it was carved when Shaka Muni was absent in the heaven called Tosotsu-Ten (Tushita), preaching to his mother, during which time his disciples mourned over his absence. King Uten (Udayana) gave red sandal-wood from his stores, and the saint's portrait having been drawn from memory by Mokuren (Maudgalyayana), the sculptor went to work and speedily completed the statue, which was placed in the monastery of Gion Shoja (the Jeta- vana Vihara). On the return of Shaka after an absence of ninety-days, the image descended the steps to meet him, and they entered the monastery together. Arashi-yama is a picturesque gorge of the River Katsura, here called the Oigawa, and higher up the Hozugawa. The hills are every- where covered with pine-trees. There are also plantations or cherry-trees, brought from Yoshino in the 13th century by the Em- peror Kameyama, and of maple- trees which add greatly to the natural beauty of the spot in spring and autumn. The place boasts some good tea-houses, especially the Nakamura-j^a and Hototogisu. The rafts seen on the river bring down timber from the province of Tamba. Hard by, in the vill. of Saga, is Tenryuji, formerly a vast congeries of temples and priests' dwellings, of which, however, a fire that took place during the civil war of 1864 has left but few remnants standing. The Nijo Palace (Nijo no Rikyu). This site originally held a mansion erected by Nobunaga in A.D. 1569 for Yoshiaki, the last of the Ashikaga dynasty of Shoguns, The present edifice dates from 1601, when Ieyasu built it to serve as a pied-a-terre on the occasion of his visits to Kyoto, During his time and that of his successors, the Tokugawa Shoguns, it was known as Nijo no Shiro, or the Nijo Castle. On the 6th April, 1868, the present Mikado, just re-invested with his full ancestral rights by the re- volution then in progress, here met the Council of State, and in their presence swore to grant a deliberative assembly and to decide all measures by public opinion. After this, the Castle was for some time used as the office of the Kyoto Prefecture, but was taken over in 1883 as one of the Imperial summer palaces. Though as many as possible of the wall paintings, being on paper, were rolled up and put away during the occupation of the palace by the prefecture, much harm was done to painted doors and to precious metal-work by the almost incredible van- dalism and neglect which ran riot at that period all over Japan, when to deface antique works of art was considered a sign of civilisation and "progress." The restoration of the Nijo Palace to some- thing like its former splendour dates from 1835-6, at which time the Imperial crest of the sixteen-petalled chrysanthemum was substituted in most places for that of the Tokugawa Shoguns. This palace, a dream of golden beauty within, is externally a good example of the Japanese fortress, 306 Route 39. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. with its turrets at the corners and its wall of cyclopean masonry. It is only, however, a fraction of its former self. The present building is what was called the Ni no maru, or Second Keep, the Hommaru, or Chief Keep, having been de- stroyed by fire about a century ago. Alighting at a fine gate called Kara- mon or Yotsu-ashi-mon, decorated with exquisite metal-work and gilt carvings, the visitor is admitted through a side-door into a court planted with pine-trees. Opposite stands a second gate, called Ku- ruma-yose, gorgeous with gold and colours and curious carvings of peonies and phoenixes, the work of Hidari Jingoro, brought from Hide- yoshi's famous palace at Fushimi. Turning to the r., the visitor is then admitted to the Palace proper, where, having signed his name in the book, he is shown over the various suites of rooms, the chief character of which is spaciousness, while the profuse employment of gold as the ground of the mural decorations, and the unusual size and boldness of the paintings on that gold ground give to the whole an aspect of grandeur, power, and richness rarely seen in a country whose art, generally speaking, re- stricts itself to the small and the delicate. All the wood used in the construction is hinoki or keyaki ; that of the doors is cryptomeria. The rooms are named according to the objects painted on the sliding screens round their walls. Some have willow-trees, some palm-trees and tigers, some immense eagles hovering over pine-trees life-size ; others have fans, large baskets of flowers, etc., all by artists of the Kano school. The coffered ceilings, too, where not injured, are very handsome. The floors, formerly covered with soft mats of a specially rich thickness, are now reduced to the bare boards — a strange discord in the magnificent golden symphony. Their removal is said to have been caused by the desire to imitate European usage and lay carpets down, but this has never been done. The carvings in the ramma of some of the rooms are exquisitely minute. One pair, in particular, attributed to Hidari Jingoro, in the suite call- ed 0-hiroma, which represents pea- cocks, is a triumph of art. A peculiarity of some of these carved ramma is that, though appearing to be open-work and therefore identical on both sides, the two sides are in reality quite different from each other. Thus, where the obverse has peacocks, the reverse will have peonies. Most of the suites of apartments are connected by wooden doors having fine, bold paintings by unknown artists. One of these paintings is celebrated in the artistic world under the name of Naonobu no nure-sagi ("the wet heron by Naonobu"). It represents a heron perched on the gunwale of a boat. During the reign of pre- fectural vandalism, this precious work of art was used as a notice- board to paste notifications on ! The Sotetsu no Ma, or "Palmetto Boom," was entirely and irrecover- ably defaced at the same time. The most splendid apartment of all is the Go Taimenjo, or Hall of Audience, the last room in the suite called 0-hiroma. It positively blazes and sparkles with gold ; and the extraordinary size and boldness of the pine-trees painted all round it produce, in their simplicity, an impression which, when the place was the scene of the reception by a Shogun of his prostrate vassals, the Daimyos, must have been over- whelming. The metal fastenings are all gilt, and of exquisite work- manship. They represent chiefly phoenixes, conventional foliage, and the Tokugawa crest. Here, too, the mats have been replaced in the old style, — an evidence of good taste prompted, so it is said, by the re- marks of foreign visitors. Notice the two levels in the apartment. The raised portion (jodan) was for the Shogun, the lower (gedan) for Nijo and Katsura Palaces. Toji Temple. 307 ordinary mortals. The last apart- ment of the suite called Kuro-join is a smaller but equally gorgeous reception room — all gold, with double cherry-trees in full blossom. Observe the two beautiful shelves (chigai-dana) , one of which shows some rude early examples of cloisonne work, — small medallions with the Shogun's crest. The style of decoration of the Shiro-join, the innermost suite of all, differs from iihe rest, the fusuma being of dull gold painted in sepia with Chinese scenes by Kano Koi. At the very end of the Palace is another great Audience Hall, called Chokushi no Ma, or Apartment of the Imperial Ambassadors. It is resplendent with gold and great trees — peach, maple, etc. — painted life-size, and has a beautiful coffered ceiling and gilt metal fastenings. The minor rooms passed just before reaching it, and decorated with wild-geese and herons, were intended for Daimyds to transact business in. Katsura mo llikyii (Katsura Summer Palace). Formerly this retreat "belonged to Prin- cess Katsura, a member of the Imperial family. It has now been taken over as a summer palace or pleasure resort for the Mikado himself. The building itself is a ram- shackle place, not differing in style from any ordinary Japanese house. Only those will care to inspect it to whom every pencil-stroke of the artists of the Kano school, especially Kano Tan-yu, is precious. The walls are decorated by those artists, chiefly in sepia ; but most of the paintings are in a very bad state of preservation. The square bamboo frame to the r. on entering is called Tsuki-mi-dai, that is, " the Moon- gazing Frame," from the circum- stance that it was used by the inmates to sit out on and watch the moon rising over the pine-trees. The Garden is a perfectly repre- sentative example of the best style of Japanese landscape gardening, as practised by Kobori Enshu and the other aristocratic enthusiasts who, under the general name of Cha-no-yu, or "tea ceremonies, " cultivated all the arts from which esthetic enjoyment can be derived. All the summer-houses in this gar- den are in the Cha-no-yu style — very plain and primitive, as its canons ordain. Then too there are pools, artificial streams, rustic bridges, large stepping-stones brought from the two extremities of the Empire, trees trained in artificial shapes, islets, moss-clad hillocks, stone lanterns. The lake is full of a water-plant called kohone (marsh marigold), which generally bears only yellow flowers, but here has red ones as well. Toji. A Buddhist temple was first erected on this site in the middle of the 8th century, but was converted in A.D. 794 into a place of entertainment for envoys from China and Korea. Two years later, it reverted to its original purpose, and being, in A.D. 823, bestowed by the reigning Mikado on Kobo Daishi, became the head-quarters of the Shingon sect of Buddhists whose doctrines that great saint had recently introduced from China. The buildings, which dated from 796, were burnt down in 1468. The present structures date from about 1640. It was close to this temple that stood in ancient times the city gate called RasJibmon, the scene of a portion of the legend of the Ogre of Oeyarua ( see Japa- nese Fairy Tale Series). Another legend at- taches to the pagoda. This edifice, it is said, after completion, began to lean to one side. Kobo Daishi, nothing daunted, pray- ed that it might be restored to the vertical position, and forthwith the pagoda stood straight. A more rationalistic version of the story is that Kobo Daishi corrected the tendency of the tower to lean to one side by digging a pond on the other ; and a pond full of lotuses is shown to this day as a mute witness to the truth of the legend. Tourists are advised to visit this temple on the 21st day of the month, when the festival of Kobo Daishi is held. Otherwise the place is apt to look desolate, especially now that the disestablishment of Buddhism is causing all but a few of the most popular temples to fall into neglect and consequent decay. Most of the buildings are in a rude style, with mud floors, pillars and beams co- 308 Boute 39. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. loured red with oxide of iron, and white plaster walls. Several of the images are attributed to the chisel of Kobo Daishi. The Reception Rooms of the monastery are un- usually handsome, but special per- mission must be obtained in order to visit them. The great artistic attraction of the place is the ex- quisite lacquer behind the altar. The Shinto Temple of Inari (Inari no Yashiro), on the road to Fushimi. This very popular Shinto temple, the prototype of the thousands of Inari tem- ples scattered all over the country, was founded in A.D. 711, when the Goddess of Bice is fabled to have first manifested her- self on the hill behind. Kobo Daishi is said to have met an old man in the vici- nity of Toji carrying a sheaf of rice on his back, whom he recognised as the deity of this temple, and adopted as the "Pro- tector" of that monastery. Hence the name Inari, which signifies " Rice-man," and is written with two Chinese charac- ters meaning " Rice-bearing." The first temple consisted of three small chapels on the three peaks of the hill behind, whence the worship of the goddess and ner companion deities was removed to its present site in 1246. Inari is said to have assisted the famous smith Kokaji to forge one of his historical swords, and to have here cut the rock with it in order to try its blade— a legend which forms the sub- ject-matter of one of the No, or Lyric Dramas. Hence this temple is regarded with special reverence by smiths and cutlers. The Inari deities annually visit the Shinto temple of Ise, leaving Kyoto on the 29th April and returning on the 20th May, the journey being performed in their sacred cars. The best time to visit Inari is either on the 15th April, when the annual festival is held, or on the days of the Horse and Serpent in each month, when devotees make the circuit of the mountain {oyama guru). Streams of pilgrims may be found circulating up and down all night long on the night be- tween these two days. The chief entrance is by the great red torii on the main road, then up a flight of steps, and through a large gate flanked by huge stone foxes to the Haiden, or oratory. Thence one comes to the chief chapel (Honden), passing 1. the ex-voto shed and r. the kagura stage, and further on two stone foxes on pedestals, pro- tected by cages to prevent them from being defiled by birds. The pillars of the portal of the chief chapel are plain ; but the rest of the walls and pillars are painted red or white. Curtains (misu) hang down in front, and before each of the six compartments is suspended a large metal mirror about 18 in. in dia- meter. Two gilt homa-inu and ama-inu guard the extremities of the verandah. They have bright blue manes, and on the legs, locks of hair tipped with bright green. Behind, to the r., is a white godown in which the sacred cars are usually kept. They are celebrated for the great value of their decorations in gold, silver, copper, and iron. The plain building to the extreme 1. is the temple office (Shamusho). A path to the 1. leads up to a second level space where stand vari- ous insignificant shrines ; then up another flight of steps to a shrine called Kami no Yashiro y and thence up to the small Oku-no-in through more than 400 small red wood torii t placed so close together as to form two nearly parallel colonnades, one ascending, the other descending. Beyond the Oku-no-in , begins 1. what is termed the Hora-megur% or " Circuit of the Mountain Hol- lo wV' on account of various fox- holes by the way. Rather than make the entire circuit, which is a good ri in length and will take at least 1 hr., visitors pressed for time will do well to strike off r. to a place where there is a little tea-house (Sasayama-tei) on the top of a minor hill commanding a good view. This point can be reached in J hr. from the entrance to the temple grounds. On the way are passed large stone boulders with inscriptions, and walls round them, and numerous torii in front of each. At each of these " boulder shrines " is a large tea- shed. The top is called Ichi-no- viine, or more popularly Suehiro- san. One descends another way, the view just below the summit being particularly fine towards the S., including Uji with its river, the Inari, Tofukuji, and Sen-yuji Temples. 309 Kizugawa, Momoyama, Fushimi, Yawata, Yamazaki, and on the •other side the swamp of Ogura, the Kamogawa, the Katsura-gawa, and the Yodogawa. On the way down are a shrine called Chqja no Jinja, -a number of sacred boulders as be- fore, and some fox-holes called O Samba, supposed to be the places in which the vixens give birth to their young. Just above the latter, 2 clw off the road, a fine view of the city is obtained. The path is good the whole way. The mountain is celebrated for producing the best mushrooms (matsutake) in Japan. The streets in the neighbourhood of the temple are crammed with little earthenware dolls and effigies called Fushimi ningyb. [The town of Fiisliimi, situated immediately to the S. of Inari, offers no attractions, though often mentioned in history. Here, on Momoyama, stood Hideyoshi's great palace, one of the vanished grandeurs of Old Japan. The citizens of Kyoto still visit this spot in spring to admire the peach blossom. Here, too, was fought a bloody battle between the Imperialists and the Shogun's partisans in January, 1868.] Tof nkinji, one of the chief monas- teries of the Zen sect, was founded by Shoichi Kokushi in the 13th cen- tury. It is noted for the maple- trees lining both sides of a gully which is spanned by a bridge or gallery called Tsu-ten-kyd, that is, 4i the Bridge Communicating with Heaven." This gallery and a tower in the roof give to Tofukuji an original and striking appearance. Of the formerly very extensive buildings, only a few now remain. The temple contains some good wooden images, and a number of wonderful kakemonos of the Five Hundred Rakan by the famous artist <3ho Densu, who spent his long life here as a monk. But its greatest treasure is a huge kakemono by the same artist of Shaka's Entry into Nirvana {Nehanzo), 24 ft. by 48 ft. It is dated 1408, when the artist was 50 years old. This work of art is exposed to the public only on the 17th November. In the Apart- ments, which were rebuilt in 1889, are some screens by Tosa Mitsunobu, Kano Eitoku, and Kano Motonori, together with kakemonos by good artists. Sen-yTiji lies in a hollow sur- rounded by pine-clad hills. It is remarkable as having been for over six centuries (1244-1868) the burial- place of the Mikados ; but as neither their tombs nor the various treasures of the temple are shown, there is little object in visiting it. The glimpse which can be caught of the mortuary shrine of Komei Tenno, father of the present Mikado, shows it to be handsome. The cliief treasure of Sen-yuji is one of Buddha's teeth, said to have been brought from China by the third abbot, Tankai. The story goes that as soon as the Buddha, died, a demon named Soshikki stole this tooth and ran away with it, but was pur- sued by the god Ida Ten, and forced to re- store the precious relic. Sixteen centuries later, the god presented it to a Chinese priest to whom he was under an obligation, and from this priest it passed into Tankai' s hands. It is kept in a beautif ully design- ed reliquary of gilt metal in the shape of a pagoda, about 3 ft. high, the upper part being of Chinese, and the platform on which, it stands of Japanese workmanship, dating from the Ashikaga period (14th-16th cen- turies). The tooth is enormous, and evi- dently belonged to some large quadruped, probably a horse. The insignificant little wooden bridge passed between Tofukuji and Senyuji deserves a word of mention. It is called Yume no Uki-hashi, or the Floating Bridge of Dreams, and was the place where, on the occa- sion of an Imperial interment, the fruit, cakes, and other perishable offerings to a dead Mikado were thrown away into the rivulet below as the procession marched slowly at midnight towards the place of sepulture. San-jii-san-g , en-do, the Temple of the 33,333 images of Kwannon, the Goddess of Mercy. 310 Route 39. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. Founded in 1132 by the ex-Emperor Toba who placed in it 1,001 images of Kwannon, to which the Emperor Go- Shirakawa afterwards added as many more in 1165, it was completedly destroyed with all its contents in 1249. In 1266 the Emperor Kameyama rebuilt it, and filled it with images of the Thousand-handed Kwannon to the number of 1,000. Its dimensions are 389 ft. by 57 ft. In 1662 the Shogun Ietsuna restored the building, which takes its name, not from its length, but from the thirty-three spaces between the pillars, which form a single row from end to end. Few temples in Japan are more impressive than this, with its vast assemblage of gilded images rising tier behind tier. Each image is 5 ft. high, and all represent the Eleven-faced Thousand-handed Kwannon. There are 1,000 of these, the total number of 33,333 being obtained by including in the com- putation the smaller effigies on the foreheads, on the halos, and in the hands of the larger ones. Three hundred of the large images were executed by Kokei and Koei, two hundred by Unkei, and the remain- der by Shichijo Daibusshi. Though all represent the same divine person- age, it will be found that in spite of the general resemblance, no two have quite the same arrangement of hands and articles held in them. . The large seated figure in the centre is also a Kwannon, while standing round it are Kwannon's Eight-and- twenty Followers (Bushu). Tradition says that the ex-Mikado Go- Shirakawa (died A. D. 1192), being troubled with severe headaches which resisted all the usual remedies, made a pilgrim- age to the shrines of Kumano to pray for relief. He was directed by the gods to apply to a celebrated Indian physician then resident at a temple in the capital. On returning he at once proceeded thither, and became absorbed in prayer until midnight, when a monk of noble mien appeared, and informed him that in a previous state of existence His Majesty had been a pious monk of Kuma- no named Renge-bo, who for his merits had been promoted to the rank of Mikado in this present life ; but that his former skull was lying at the bottom of a river still undissolved, and that out of it grew a willow-tree which shook whenever the wind blew, thereby causing His Majesty's head to ache. On awaking from this Tision, the ex-Mikado sent to look for the skull, and having found it, caused it to be enclosed in the head of the principal Kwannon of this temple. It used formerly to be the custom for skilful archers to try how many arrows they could shoot from one end to the other of the verandah on the W. front of the building. This was called o-ya-Tcazu, orthe "greatest number of arrows." In 1686 a retainer of the prince of Kishu is said to have won the prize, shooting 8,133 out of 15,053 arrows right to the end. The grounds of the San-ju-san- gen-do contain an Art Museum: (Bijutsu-kwari). Also in the same- enclosure is the celebrated Daibutsu, or Great Buddha. In 1588 Hideyoshi built a temple to hold a large image of Roshana Butsu, the God of Light, in imitation of Yoritomo, who had originated the project of constructing- a Daibutsu at Kamakura. The temple was 200 ft. from the ground to the ridge of the roof, and the wooden image was 160 ft. high. Both were destroyed by an earthquake in 1596. In the following year he rebuilt the temple, and placed in it the famous triple image of Amida, Kwannon, and Daiseishi, which he caused to be removed for this purpose from Zen- koji ; but after his death his widow re- stored it to the temple at Zenkoji, and set about the construction of a new Daibutsu. By the labour of several hundred work- men and artisans, a huge image was completed up to the neck ; but as they were engaged in casting its head, the scaffolding accidentally took fire, and all efforts to extinguish the flames being in- effectual, the temple was speedily reduced to ashes. This disaster occurred on the 15th January, 1603 ; but no attempts to repair it were made until Ieyasu, in pur- suance of his policy of weakening his younger rival Hideyori by inducing him to undertake the reconstruction of famous buildings on a scale of magnificence cal- culated to exhaust his finances, persuaded him and his mother that due regard for Hideyoshi' s memory imposed upon them the obligation of seeing that his intention of rearing a worthy fane to Buddha was not finally frustrated. They joyfully adopted the suggestion, and at once set about the restoration of both image and building on the same colossal scale as before. By the spring of 1614 both were successfully completed, and the popula- tion of the capital and surrounding pro- vinces flocked in crowds to witness the opening ceremony. But the High Priests who, with the aid of a thousand bonzes of inferior grade, were to perform the dedicatory service, had hardly taken their places and commenced to repeat their liturgies, when two mounted messengers suddenly arrived from the Shogun' s Resi- dent, with orders to interrupt the pro- ceedings and forbid the consecration. The Daibutsu. Koshoji. 311 The disorder that ensued among the assemblage, baulked of the sight for which many of them had come a long distance, and ignorant of the cause of this unexpected termination of their holiday, ended in a riot which the police were unable to repress, and the city is said to have been actually sacked by the infuriated crowd of country people. It afterwards became known that Ieyasu had taken offence at the wording of the inscription on the great bell, into which the characters forming his name were introduced, by way of mockery, as he pretended to think, in the phrase Koklea anko, " May the state be peaceful and prosperous" (Jca and ko being the Chinese for ie and yam) ; while in another sentence which ran, " On the east it welcomes the bright moon, and on the west bids fare- well to the setting sun," he chose to dis- cover a comparison of himself to the lesser, and of Hideyori to the greater luminary, from which he then inferred an intention on the part of Hideyori to attempt his destruction. The dimensions of Hideyori's structure were: height 150ft., length 272 ft., and depth 167 i ft., while the roof was support- ed by 92 pillars of from 4-| to 5| ft. in dia- meter, composed of timbers bound toge- ther by stout iron rings, one or two of which have been preserved. The seated figure of the Buddha was 58^ ft. high. In 1662 an earthquake destroyed both the building and the image, and the greater part of the latter was melted down into copper coins. In 1667 a wooden image of the same dimensions, lacquered a bronze colour, was constructed in its stead. This was damaged by lightning in 1775, but restored, only to be set on fire again by the same agency in 1798 and utterly con- sumed. The present image was built in 1801 at the expense of a public-spirited merchant of Osaka. The Daibutsu consists only of a head and shoulders without a body ; but even so, it reaches to the ceiling of the lofty hall in which it is kept. The material is wood. The head is gilt, but not the shoulders. The di- mensions are stated as follows : — Height 58 ft. Length of face 30 ,, Breadth of face 21 ,, Length of eyebrow 8 ,, Length of eye 5 „ Length of nose 9 ,, Breadth of nostril 2 ,, 3 in. Length of mouth 8 ,, 7 ,, Length of ear 12 ,, Breadth of shoulders. . . 43 ,, Round the walls hang 188 cheap modern pictures of Kwannon paint- ed on paper, each inscribed with a stanza of poetry. There are also some large pieces of iron, relics of the pillars of the former building. At the top of a gallery behind the image is a rude altar containing a black image of Fudo, which Hide- yoshi used to consider as his guar- dian spirit in battle. By going round this gallery, one sees into the inside of the image, which is hollow but contains a quantity of beam- work. The huge Bell already alluded to is seen on quitting the Dai- butsu. It is nearly 14 ft. high, 9 in. thick, 9 ft. in diameter, and weighs over 63 tons, being thus one of the two biggest bells in Japan, and larger than that of Ta-chung-szu in Peking, which has been account- ed the largest suspended bell in the world. Its companion in size is at Ghion-in, also in Kyoto. That at Nara comes third. The Daibutsu bell hangs in a new belfry dating from 1884, the ceiling of which is gaudily decorated with paintings of Buddhist angels. The new Shinto shrine, called Toyokuni no Yashiro, near to the belfry on the 1. as one departs, is dedicated to Hideyoshi, who was buried on a hill close by. The handsome gate, which is an old one, was brought from his palace of Momoyama at Fushimi. Opposite is the Mimi-zuka, or Ear Mound, beneath which were buried the ears and noses of Koreans slain in the war which Hideyoshi waged against their country in the years 1592 and 1597. They were brought home by his soldiers instead of the more usual trophies of heads, as evidence of the exploits performed in his service. Koslioji, a large temple next door to the Nishi Hongwanji (see next page), was founded in the 15th cen- tury, but the present buildings date only from the 18th century. The interior of the building is 28 yds. square, and is in the same style as 312 Route 39. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. the Nishi Hongwanji. In the Apartments are to he seen good paintings of storks by Kano Eitei, of about the year 1700, and a suite of three side-rooms containing paint- ings by artists of the Shijo school. iloiikokuji, close to the Nishi Hongwanji on the N., is remarkable chiefly for the vast area over which its buildings are scattered, and for the fact that it was the first monas- tery founded by Nichiren when he established the sect which bears his name. Nishi Hongwaitj!, the head- quarters of the Western branch of the Hongwanji sect of Buddhists, is a grand massive structure, as usual with the temples of this sect. The principal gate is decorated with beautifully carved designs of the chrysanthemum flower and leaf. The wire netting covering its inte- rior part is placed there, as in a good many other edifices, in order to prevent birds from building their nests among the rafters. The ap- parently useless wall just inside the gate serves the purpose of securing privacy for the temple by shutting out the view from the street. The large tree (a Gingko biloba, Jap. icho) in the courtyard is supposed to protect the temple against fire, by discharging showers of water whenever a conflagration in the vicinity threatens danger. The interior of the main building is 138 ft. in length by 93 ft. in depth, and the floor covers an area of 477 mats. As usual in the tem- ples of this sect, the nave (gejin) is perfectly plain, of Jccyaki wood, with white plaster walls. R. and 1. of the chancel are two spacious chambers 24 ft. by 36 ft., with gilt pillars and walls, decorated with the lotus-flower and leaf. In them hang large kakemonos nearly 200 years old inscribed with invocations to Amida in large gold characters on a dark blue ground surrounded by a glory, and portraits of the succes- sive heads of the sect. The front of the nave is completely gilt, and has gilt trellised folding doors and sliding screens decorated with snow scenes, representing the plum-tree, pine, and bamboo in their winter covering, the ramma being filled with gilt open-work carvings of the peony. The cornice is decorat- ed with coloured arabesques. In the centre of the chancel (nai- jin) is the shrine, covered with gilt and painted carved floral designs. It contains a seated effigy in black wood of the Founder, about 2 ft. high, said to be from his own hand. Before it stands a wooden altar, the front of which is divided into small panels of open-work flowers and birds against a gilt background. The central apartment has a fine cornice of gilt and painted wood- work, and a coffered ceiling with the shippo and hana crest on a gold ground. The dim light renders much of the detail obscure. The building was erected about 1591 or 1592, and the decorations have been since renewed every fifty years. Next to the main temple, but of smaller dimensions, is the Kodo or Amida-do, 96 ft. wide by 87 ft. in depth, divided in the same way, but having only one apartment, 30 ft. by 36 ft., on each side of the central chapel, with a dead-gold wall at the back, and a coffered ceiling with coloured decorations on paper. Fancy portraits of Shdtoku Taishi and the " Seven Great Priests of India, China and Japan," including Honen Shonin, founder of the Jodo sect, from which the Shin or Hon- gwanji sect is an offshoot, hang in these two apartments. A handsome shrine, with slender gilt pillars and a design composed of the chrysan- themum flower and leaf, contains a gilt wooden statuette of Amida, about 3 ft. high, so much discol- oured by age as to look quite black. It is attributed to the famous sculp- tor Kasuga Busshi. Over the gilt carvings of tree-peonies in the ramma are carvings of angels in full relief. A sliding-screen close to the entrance on the r. of the altar, Nishi and Higashi Hongwanji Temples. 313 painted with a peacock and peahen on a gold ground, perched on a peach-tree with white blossoms, by- one of the Kano school, is worth special notice. Application should be made for permission to visit the State Apartments, which are very fine. On the way in are some sliding panels by Kano Eitoku, which were brought from Hideyoshi's often- mentioned palace at Fushimi. The largest room (Taimenjo), 69 ft. deep •and 54 ft. wide, has good paintings on the walls by Kano Hidenobu ; the storks in the ramma are attributed to Hidari Jingoro. Next comes a small room with bamboos on a gold ground, and a coffered ceiling with floral paintings, by artists of the Kano school. Another room has wall-paintings of geese in all posi- tions on a gold ground. It must be noted, however, that these paintings are on large sheets of paper, which have been fixed in their places after having been executed in a horizon- tal position. True wall-paintings, that is, paintings executed on a vertical surface, are extreme- ly rare in Japan, the only well-authen- ticated examples known to us being the series of paintings on lacquer at the back of the main altar in the temple of Kwan- non at Asakusa in Tokyo, those on plaster in the Kondb of the monastery of Horyu- ji near Nara, and some in the lower storey of the pagoda of Toji. The room beyond is decorated with chrysanthemums on the walls, and fans in the compartments of the ceiling. We next pass through an apartment decorated with pea- cocks and cherry-trees, and gilt carvings of the wild camellia and phcenix in the ramma ; then a room with Chinese landscapes on a gold ground and carvings of wistaria in the ramma, and another with Chinese architectural scenes and landscapes. These form the suite called O-biroma, or Chief Audience Room, and the paintings are from the brush of Hasegawa Ryokei. In the courtyard opposite to this suite, is a stage for the performance of the No. Passing a small room de- corated with Chinese hunting scenes, and proceeding along a corridor, we reach an apartment called Taiko Kubi-jikken no Ma, that is, the room where Hideyoshi used to inspect the heads of his opponents killed in battle, also from the palace of Fushimi, with drums painted on the ceiling and gilt open-work carvings of the flying squirrel and grapes in the ramma. Leaving the Apartments, we cross a small court to the gateway known as the Chokushi Mon, or Gate of the Imperial Messenger, formerly sparkling with gold, but now some- what faded. The carvings are at- tributed to Hidari Jingoro. The subject on the transverse panels is Kyo-yo (Hsii-yu), a hero of early Chinese legend, who, having re- jected the Emperor Yao's proposal to resign the throne to him, is re- presented washing his ear at a waterfall to get rid of the pollution caused by the ventilation of so preposterous an idea ; the owner of the cow opposite is supposed to have quarrelled with him for thus defiling the stream, at which he was watering his beast. The build- ings in foreign style hard by the Nishi Hongwanji, just outside what is known as the Daidokoro-Mon, or Kitchen Gate, are a seminary for young priests and a girl's school, both under the control of this tem- ple, and both imparting a modern education. If time permits, the traveller may end his inspection of the Hongwanji by going over the Hi-un-kaku, or Pavilion of the Fly- ing Clouds. In one of the upper rooms is a sketch on a gold-paper ground, attributed to Kano Moto- nobu (but more probably by Kano Eitoku), called the Gyogi no Fuji, or Euji of Good Manners, because the outlines can hardly be dis- tinguished unless the spectator takes up a respectful kneeling at- titude on the floor. Higashi Hongwanji. This, an offshoot of the Nishi Hong wan* ji, was founded in 1602, and destroyed by 314 Route 39, — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. fire in 1864 during the unsuccessful at- tempt made by the followers of the Prince of Choshu to seize the person of the Mikado. The new edifice has only just been com- pleted. This temple, probably the largest in Japan, well deserves a visit on account of its noble proportions, and as showing what a fine Bud- dhist temple looks like when new. So far as plan and style are concern- ed, the orthodox model of the temples of the Hongwanji sect has been faithfully adhered to, both in the Daishi-do, or Founders's Hall (the main building), and in the sub- sidiary Amida-do. Note the splen- did bronze lanterns, four in number, at the entrance. The wood of all such portions of the temple as are meant to meet the eye is keyaki ; the beams in the ceiling are of pine. There are some good carvings of the signs of the zodiac, of waves, of bamboos, etc. The chief dimensions of the main build- ing are approximately as follows : Length 210 ft. Depth 170 „ Height 120 „ Number of large pillars 96 Number of tiles on roof 163,512 Notwithstanding what has often been said with regard to the decay of Japanese Buddhism, the rebuild- ing of this grand temple has been a strictly popular enterprise. All the surrounding provinces have contri- buted their quota — vast sums in the aggregate — while many peasants, considering gifts in kind to be more honourable and, as it were, more personal than gifts in money, have presented timber or other materials. The name of the architect of the main building is Ito Heizaemon, a native of Owari. The Amida-do is by Kinoko Tosai, a citizen of Kyoto. Kenitinji, a monastery of the Zen sect, founded by the abbot Eisai in 1203, has little, from a tourist's point of view, to justify its local celebrity. The grounds are extensive, and contain numerous suites of apartments for the use of the monks, who have the reputation of profound Buddhistic learning. A fair for the sale of ' old clo,' is held here on the 10th of every month. From the name of this temple is derived the term kenninji, applied to fences of split bamboos fastened close together against horizontal lattens. MsM Otani is the burial-place of the larger portion of the body of Shinran Shonin, transferred here in 1603 from a spot now included within the grounds of Ohion-in. The stone bridge spanning the lotus- pond is termed Megane-bashi, from its resemblance to a pair of spec- tacles. Several of the ornamental knobs on the balustrade can be turned round. A flight of steps leads to the handsome main gate, inside which 1. stands, as usual in the temples of this sect, the Taiko- do, a handsomely carved two-storied structure, which is used as a place of confinement for refractory priests, and receives its name from the drum (taiko) which they are set to beat as a penance. There are some handsome bronzes in front of the main temple, a new building plain outside, but with a sufficiently handsome interior, a striking effect being produced by the restriction of gold ornamentation to the vicinity of the altar. A gilt figure of Amida stands in a gold lacquer shrine. In the court behind is an office for the reception of the ashes of members of the sect from all parts of the country, whose relations pay to have their remains deposited with those of Shinran Shonin, in- stead of going to the expense of a monument in the adjacent cemetery. The Kyoto members, on the con- trary, are interred in the cemetery. Opposite is the oratory in front of the tomb, which is so concealed behind a triple fence as to be in- visible. The path up the hill leads through the cemetery to the W. gate of the temple of Temple of Kiyomizu. 315 Kiyomizu-dera. The origin of this temple is lost in the mists of antique fable. According to the legend, the novice Enchin, having dreamt that he saw a golden stream flowing down into the Yodogawa, went in search of it, and ascending to its source, found there an old man sitting under a tree, who gave his name as Gyoei, and said : " I have been here for the last two hundred years repeating the invocation to Kwan- iion, and waiting for you to relieve me. Take my place for a while, that I may perform a journey which is required of me. This is a suitable spot for the erec- tion of a hermitage, and the log which you see lying here will supply the material for an image of the Most Com- passionate One," (i.e. Kwannon). With these words he disappeared, leaving the novice in charge of the solitude. After a while, finding that the old man did not return, Enchin climbed a neighbouring hill, and discovered a pair of shoes lying on its summit, from which he inferred that the mysterious old man was none other than Kwannon in human form, who had left the snoes behind on re-ascending to heaven. He now determined to make the image of the god, but found his strength insufficient, and passed seve- ral years looking at the log, vainly plan- ning how to overcome the difficulty. Twenty years had elapsed, when one day good luck guided the warrior Saka- noe-no-Tamura-Maro, who was in pursuit of a stag, to this very spot. While he was resting, Enchin represented his diffi- culties to the hunter, who was struck with admiration at the untiring devotion of the novice, and subsequently, having taken counsel with his wife, gave his own house to be pulled down and re- erected by the side of the cascade as a temple for the image, which was now at last completed. A steep street of shops, where little earthenware dolls (Fushimi ningyo) cf every variety are to be had, leads up to the temple, which is situated in a striking position on the hill-side and commands a justly celebrated view of the city. The two-storied gateway at the top of the steps dates from the Ashikaga period, and contains a pair of huge Ni-6. One may pass either through it, or through another gate higher up which abuts on the three-storied pagoda. To the 1. of and beyond the pagoda are several minor chapels. The visitor then passes up through a colonnade to the Hondo or main temple, whose rough-hewn columns and bare floor produce an unusual impression. Indeed the whole aspect of Kiyomizu is unique and original, notwithstanding a certain dowdiness which seems to have taken possession of it. The main temple is dedicated to the Eleven - faced Thousand - handed Kwannon, whose seated image, a little over 5 ft. high, is contained in a shrine that is opened only once in thirty-three years. R. and 1. are images of the Eight-and-twenty Followers of Kwannon, and at each end of the platform stand two of the Shi-Tenno. The shrine at the E. end contains an image of Bishamon, who, as tradition tells us, appeared to Tamura-Maro, in company with Jizo (whose image, attributed to the sculptor Enchin, is enclosed in the W. shrine), and promised him aid in his expedition against the Ainos of N.E. Japan. Pictures of the three hang at one end of the inner chapel. The building is 190J ft. long by 88J ft. in depth, and 53 ft. in height from the platform. It has a wooden platform in front, called the butai (dancing stage), supported on a lofty scaffolding of solid beams, and two small projecting wings which serve as orchestra (gakuya). An open hall full of ex-voto pictures, extend- ing the whole length of the front,, abuts on the dancing stage. To it succeeds a long narrow matted cor- ridor called the naijin, while the closed chamber which contains the shrines is called nai-naijin ; the front part of this is sunk below the floor and paved with squared stones. Lights are always kept burning in the temple, and worshippers pass in and out all night. A feature adding to the peculiar aspect of the place is the abyss which divides the main temple from the Oku-no~in dedicat- ed to Kwannon, which is built out from the opposite hill on piles. It stands on the site of Gyoei's hut. Below is a small cascade called the Otowa no taki. On the hill to the 1. are various shrines of lesser size and importance. 316 Route 39. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. The Yasaka Pagoda, five storeys high, is worth ascending for the sake of the near and complete view which it affords of the city ; but the ladder-like staircase is unpleasantly steep for ladies. This pagoda, like many others in Japan, is dedicated to four Nyorai, namely, Hojo on the S., Amida on the W., Ashuku on the E., and Shaka on the N. On the eight panels of the doors are paintings on a thin coating of plaster. Of the four images, that of Shaka alone is old. On the in- terior walls and pillars are paintings of various Buddhist deities. This pagoda is said to have been found- ed by Shotoku Taishi about the end of the 6th century, but another account makes it date from 679. The present building dates from 1618. Ko(laiji 9 noted for its relics of Hideyoshi, belongs to the Rinzai branch of the Zen sect. Founded in A.D. 83S, it underwent many vicissitudes, and was rebuilt in 1605 by Hideyoshi' s widow, in order that services might be performed there for the benefit of the souls of Hideyoshi and his mother. In 1 8b'3 some renins set the principal build- ings on fire, because it was announced that the ex-Prince of Echizen, whom they looked upon as an enemy of the Mikado's party, was about to take up his quarters there. The greater part of the buildings perished on this occasion ; but some few portions, together with the fine garden, still remain. The visitor is first ushered into the Apartments, which, though of modest proportions, contain some good works of art. There are gold screens by Kano Motonobu, Kano Koi, and Hasegawa Tohaku. One by Matahei is very curious, as re- presenting the arrival of Korean envoys at Sakai in Japan, while a brilliant but anonymous kakemono depicts the Chinese Emperor Shin- no-Shiko. There are also various relics of Hideyoshi and his wife — his writing-box in mother-of-pearl, the black lacquered ' horse ' on which she hung her clothes, etc. From the Apartments the acolyte who acts as cicerone will show the way to the Garden, which was de- signed by the celebrated esthete, Kobori Enshu. Its picturesque effect is much assisted by the two lofty pine-clad hills that rear their heads over the trees at the back. We are next made to pass up a gallery, which was brought from Momoyama. Hideyoshi used to sit on the little square in the middle of this gallery to gaze at the moon. Then one comes to the Kaisan-do, or Founder's Hall, the painted ornamentation of which is highly original in style. The ceiling is made of the top of Hide- yoshi' s wife's carriage, and from a portion of the roof of the war-junk prepared for Hideyoshi's use in his expedition against Korea. The four panels of the shrine were painted by Kano Motonobu. A curious in- cense-burner in front of the little altar was brought from Korea by Kato Kiyomasa, and is shaped like an octopus. The dragon on the ceiling is by Kano Eitoku. From the Founder's Hall we pass up another covered gallery named the Givaryo no Roka, that is, the Cor- ridor of the Sleeping Dragon, to the O Tamaya, or Mortuary Chapel, which contains a seated effigy of Hideyoshi in a shrine having panels of black lacquer with designs in thin gold taken from his wife's carriage. The hat was one given to him by the Emperor of China. On the opposite side is the effigy of his wife (Kita-no-Mandokoro) in the garb of a Buddhist nun. The Thirty-six Poets, by Tosa Mitsunobu, hang round the walls. Four sliding screens by Kano Motonobu, much injured by time, are also shown. Note the gold pattern on the black lacquer steps inside the altar. It represents rafts and fallen cherry- blossoms floating down the current of a river. The way leads down the gallery again, and so out. The guide may offer to take the traveller up to the Shignre no Cliin and Karakusa no Chin on the hill be- hind ; but they are not worth spend- ing time over, being mere little thatched summer-houses, old and Slwgun-zuha. Temple of Higashi Otani. 317 quite abandoned. Better worth doing, — especially if the ascent of Shogun-zuka be abandoned, — is the short walk up to the Shokon-hi hard by, a monument erected in memory of warriors who fell at various times in the service of their monarch and country, whence there is a delight- ful view of the city. Shognn-zitka is about 570 ft. above the river. It takes its name, which means the Generalissimo's Mound, from the tradi- tion that when the Emperor Kwammu removed his capital to its present situa- tion, he buried here the effigy of a warrior in full armour, provided with a bow and arrows, to act as the protecting deity of the new city. According to popular belief, this guardian warrior was none other than the famous Tamura Maro. The eminence commands a wide prospect over the city and sur- rounding country, up to the moun- tains bounding the province of Yama- shiroonthe W. andN. Just below are the two-storied gateway of Chion-in and the temple of Gion, from which Shijo Street can be traced right across the city. Above the Shijo bridge are the Sanjd and Nijo bridges, below ifc that of Gojo. The high mountain with a clump of trees on its top, bearing nearly N.W., is Atago-yama. A long white wall under it indicates Ninnaji or Omuro Gosho, to be recognised also by its pagoda. In front of this again is the Nijo Palace, and much nearer, and further to the r., the Roman Catholic Church. By following the line of the Nijo bridge we perceive the garden of what was formerly the Palace of the abdicated Mikado, and behind it the Palace of the reign- ing Mikado. A little W. of N. is the broad bed of the Kamogawa ; at the base of the mountain range from which this river issues lies the temple of Kami-Gamo, beyond which is the mountain road to Kurama. At the junction of the Kamogawa and Hirano-gawa is a dense grove which conceals the temples of Shimo-Gamo and Kawai. The summit of Hiei-zan bears N.E. by N. Half-way between its foot and the spectator lie Kurodani with its pagoda and numerous build- ings, and the large roof of Shin- nyo-do with its pagoda further W. Nearer is the two-storied gate of Nanzenji, half-hidden among the trees. A little S. of W. are the two high roofs of Nishi Hongwanji and the single large hall of Koshoji. A little further S. is the pagoda of Tdji beyond the railway station, and S,W. in the far distance are Tenno- zan at the end of the Western Hills (Nishiyama) above Yamazaki station, and the Yodogawa flowing gently along its half-choked bed towards the sea, From the E. brow of the hill the view commands the Tokaido and the railway winding round the base of the opposite range. Nearer than Shdgun-zuka to the city proper, is M ariiyama, a suburb almost exclusively occupied by tea- houses — the resort of holiday- makers bent on dancing, drinking, or bathing. Some may find it more convenient to visit the Higashi Ota- ni, Gion, and Chion-in temples first, and to take Maruyama and Shogun- zuka afterwards. Higashi Otani, is the burial-place of a portion of the remains of Shin- ran Shonin, founder of the Monto or Hongwanji sect, of Kennyo the founder of this its Eastern branch, and of Kennyo's successors the later abbots. The grounds are extensive, and finely situated on a hill-side facing Atago-yama and Kurama-yama. An avenue of pine- trees leads up to the gateway, which is decorated with good carvings of chrysanthemums. The chapel {lion- do), though small, is a glorious specimen of Buddhistic art— lovely in its rich simplicity of gold, with no other colours to distract the eye. On the altar is a wooden statuette of Amida by the sculptor Kwaikei. In a shrine at the side hangs a portrait of Shiuran Shonin. Observe the " wheel of the law," repeated 318 Route 39. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. nine times on the frieze above the main altar. A flight of steps behind the chapel leads np to the tomb, in front of which stands a beautiful gate carved by Hidari Jingoro. The panels at the sides of this gate, originally gilt, represent 1. the carp ascending a cascade — the symbol of effort and success in life — and r. the lioness casting her cub down a precipice in order to harden it, both favourite motives with the artists of Japan. On the top of the tomb lies a remarkable stone called the " tiger-stone " (tora-ishi). The ar- rangements for interring members of the sect are similar to those at the Nishi Otani (see p. 314). In the grounds near the chapel is a splendid bronze fountain, lotus- shaped with a dragon rampant atop. As in the Nishi Otani temple, so here too there is a Taiko-do for the confinement of refractor}^ priests. Qion bo Yashiro, less often called Yasaka no Yashiro, stands close to Higashi Ofcani. This Ryobu Shinto temple is said to have been founded in A. D . 658 by a Korean envoy in honour of Susano-o. G-ion-ji was the name given to a Buddhist temple dedicated to Yakushi and Kwan- non which stood in the same enclosure, and by popular usage the name Gion came to be applied to the Shinto temple as well. Gion, it may be observed for the sake of those familiar with Indian Bud- dhism, is the Japanese rendering of Jeta- vana Vihdra, the name of the park or monastery presented to Buddha by Anathapindaka. Though widely known and much frequented by worshippers, this temple produces an impression of shabbiness. The chief building (Honden) is 69 ft. long by 57 ft. in depth, and is roofed with a thick layer of bark. The annual festival takes place on the 15fch June. Cli ion-in, the principal monastery of the Jodo sect, stands on a hill in Eastern Kyoto in a situation recall- ing that of many fortresses. Near its gate in Awata-guchi is the cele- brated pottery of Kinko-zan. This temple was founded in 1211 by Enko Daishi, also known as H6- nen Shonin. He was born in 1133 of respectable parents in the province of Mimasaka, and various portents are said to have accompanied his birth. At the age of nine he was entered as a pupil at a seminary in his native pro- vince; but his teacher, recognising his exceptional powers, sent him up to the great monastery onHiei-zan in 1147, with a letter containing only these words : " I send you an image of the great sage Monju." On the letter being presented, the priest to whom it was addressed asked where the image was, and was much astonished when the child alone appeared before him. But the young novice soon justified the implied estimate of his great intellectual powers, and made such rapid progress in his studies that at the end of the same year he was judged fit to be admitted to the priesthood. The prospect was held out to him of ultimately obtain- ing the headship of the Tendai sect ; but he preferred to devote himself to the study of theology, and finally developed a special doctrine of salvation, or the road to the " Pure Land," from which the new sect was named Jodo, this word having the same meaning as the Sanskrit Sukhavdti or "Pure Land," the heaven of Amida. In 1207 he settled at Kyoto near the site of the present monastery, and there breathed his last in A.D. 1212 at the age of 79. The buildings were twice destroyed by fire in the 15th century, and once again at the beginning of the 16th. Ieyasu rebuilt the monastery in 1603 ; but it was burnt again in 1633, with the exception of the two-storied entrance-gate, the library, and the Seishi-do. Its restoration was im- mediately commenced, and in 1630, during; the reign of Iemitsu, the whole was com- pleted. A broad avenue between banks planted with cherry-trees leads, up to the main entrance, or Sammon, a huge two-storied structure 81 ft. by 37 J ft., the total height from the ground being 80 ft. A staircase on the S. side gives access to the upper storey, which contains images of Shaka, with Sudatta and Zenzai Doji on his r. and L, and beyond them on each side eight Rakan in elaborate dresses, all about life-size, the work of a sculptor named Koyu. The cornices and cross-beams are richly decorated with coloured ara- besques, geometrical patterns, and fabulous animals. The ceilings, which lose their effect by being too low, have dragons and angels on a yellow ground. The gallery outside commands a charming view of the city through the pine-tree tops, while Temple of Chion-in. 319 to the N. towards Hiei-zan the pros- pect is wonderfully beautiful. At the S. end there is another pretty view of the densely wooded hills. Two flights of steps, one steep, the other rising gently, conduct us to the great court, and to the front of the Hondo, or Main Temple. On the r., on a small elevation among the trees, stands the bell-tower, oompleted in 1618, containing the Great Bell, height 10.8 ft., diameter 9 ft., thickness 9J in., weight 125,000 catties (nearly 74 tons), cast in 1633. The Hondo, which faces S., is 167 ft. in length by 138 ft. in depth, and 94^ ft. in height from the ground, thus being the largest build- ing of the kind in Kyoto. It is dedicated to Enko Daishi, whose shrine stands on a stage, called Shumi-dan, at the back of the chancel, within a space [marked off by four tall gilt pillars. The gilt metal lotuses in bronze vases, which stand before the front pillars, reach a height of 21 ft. from the floor, being nearly half the height of the building. The dimensions and the confinement of decoration to this single part render this interior very effective. On the W. of the chief shrine is a second con- taining memorial tablets of leyasu and his mother and of Hidetada, while on the opposite side (E.) are Amida in the centre and the memo- rial tablets of successive abbots. Under the eaves of the front gallery is an umbrella, said to have flown thither from the hands of a boy whose shape had been assumed by the Shinto god of Inari, guardian deity of this monastery. East of the Main Temple is the Library, containing a complete copy of the Buddhist canon. Behind the Main Temple, and connected with it by a gallery, is the Shueido, containing two good altars, one of which holds Amida by Eshin Sozu, with Kwannon and Seishi r. and 1., the other a very large gilt Amida by the brothers Kebunshi and Kebun- do. To the r. of the big image sits Monju in the costume of a priest. After viewing these, one is shown over the Goten, or Palace built by lemitsu, which is divided into two parts, called respectively the O-Hojo and Ko-Hojo. The decorations on the sliding screens by artists of the Kano school are very fine. There are two rooms painted with cranes and pine-trees by Naonobu; then other rooms with pine-trees only, by Naonobu and Nobumasa, once occupied by the Mikado. At the place where the sets of apartments meet is a wooden door with a cat, much admired by the Japanese because it appears to front the spectator from whatever point of view he may observe it. One fine room by Eitoku has snow scenes, unfortunately somewhat faded. The next room, also adorned with snow scenes, was the reception room of the Imperial Prince who acted as high priest (Kwacho-no-Miya). The Sixteen Bakan in the next room to this are by Nobumasa. _Ke turning to the back of the O-Hojo, we reach a small eight-matted room decorated by Naonobu with the plum and bamboo, which is called Miya Sama no o Tokudo no Ma, that is, "the room in which the Prince was initiated into the priest- hood." The chrysanthemums in the room next to this are by Nobu- masa, by whom too are the cele- brated sparrow (nuke-suzume) which flew through the screen after it was painted, and the i-naori no sagi, or " egret in the act of rising." In the verandah are a pair of wooden doors painted with pine-trees, which are said to have been so life-like as to exude resin. After these come rooms by Tan-yu, with willow-trees and plum-blossoms covered with snow. The monastery is rich in MSS. which, however, can only be seen by making application through the city authorities, The tomb of Enko Daishi is situated further up the hill, and is reached by ascending the steps E. of the Hondo. Close to Chion-in is the 320 Route 39. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. Awata Palace (Atuata no Goten), also called Sei-ren-in. It was first built as a place of retirement for the Eraperor Seiwa in A.D. 879, after his abdication of the throne. He died here in the following year. The present buildings are of more modern date. The garden was planned by Soami. Of this fine palace only the store-house, the bell- tower and two or three minor buildings escaped the fire of 1893. So rich was it in works of art, and especially in screens, that the value of the ashes was estimated at $5,000 for the sake of the gold to be collected from them. On the way to Nanzenji one passes what looks like a railway, but is really only a portage between the two sections of the Lake Biwa Canal, where the boats which navi- gate on either side are placed on trucks and rolled along for a few hundred yards. Through the grounds of Nanzenji, too, passes the aqueduct that conveys water from Ofcsu to Kyoto, a redbrick structure whose arches rather add to than deteriorate from the picturesque- ness of the place. Nanzenji. This temple of the Rinzai division of the Zen sect originally belonged to Mii- dera at Otsu; but about 1280 the ex- Emperor Kameyama appropriated it for his own residence, and in 1 289 converted it into a monastery of the Zen sect. The present main temple was built by Ieyasu in 1606, The two-storied gateway facing W., W ft. by 32 ft., was built in 1628 by Todo Takatora, prince of Tsu in Ise, at the cost of a year's revenue. The famous robber Ishikawa Goemon is said to have made his residence in the gate-house which preceded the present building. The Hatto, as the main temple is called, produces a somewhat strik- ing effect, on account of its mixture of richness and simplicity, the dark blue tiled floor picked out with white and the plain brown wooden columns contrasting with the rich red and black altar and the gold of the images enthroned aloft thereon. Tbese images represent Shaka, Fu- gen, and Monju, flanked by the Ni-6 lacquered with vermilion brought from Korea, as were also the two bronze bowl-shaped gongs in front. N. of the altar are the original founder of the Zen sect (the Chinese Hui-k'o), Daruma, Rinzai Zenji (originator of the subdivision of the Zen sect called after his name) and Nannin Kokushi, the " second founder," or restorer of the mon- astery in modern times. In the un- usually large two-storied gateway are Shaka and the Sixteen Bakan t the colours in good preservation. The cornice and wall-plate are gor- geously decorated with coloured diapers and arabesques. On the cross-beams are painted the unicorn (kirin) and flying dragon ; on the ceiling, the phcenix and angels in subdued colours on a pale yellow ground. The whole interior presents a magnificent example of this style of decoration. Nanzenji possesses fine paintings by Kano Eitoku and other noted artists. Two small black lacquered shrines contain effi- gies of Takatora and Ieyasu. Elk wa lido, a temple of the Jodo sect on the flank of Higashi-yama, is specially worth visiting in the lotus or the maple season ; and those interested in Buddhist legends will like to see the famous image called Mi-kaeri no Amida, or " Ami- da Looking over his Shoulder." Originally founded about the middle of the 9th century, this temple was • estored by the priest Eikwan (b. 1032, d. 1111), whence its present name. The main temple, in which the image stands, was repaired about fourteen years ago in handsome style. The image is 2Jft. high, the drapery ■ well-rendered, the head half turned round to the 1. as if looking back- wards. It is kept enclosed in a shrine on the main altar, and those desirous of seeing it must apply to the priest in charge. The image will then be unveiled with some little pomp and circumstance, lights lighted, and a bell rung, while the priest mounts up on the altar beside the image and recites the legend. A curtain is then drawn up, and the image stands revealed in a dim reli- gious light. Eikwando. Kurodani. 321 The legend is that Eikwan, who used to spend his time in walking round the im- age repeating the formula Namu Amida, one day heard his name called twice or thrice, and looking round perceived the image with its face turned in his direction, and so it has remained fixed until this day. Eikwan's own statue is one of those placed to the r. of the altar and a little behind it, so that Amida now perma- nently looks in his direction. A sequel to the legend says that a certain Daimyo, Lord of Akashi, having doubted the image's power, struck it on the r. side in order to see what would happen, when blood flowed from the wound down on to its breast. Kurodani is a monastery of the Jodo sect, beautifully situated on the side of a hill. It stands on the spot where the founder, Hon en Shonin, built his humble cabin on abandoning the Tendai school of Hiei-zan, and is named after the " black ravine " on that mountain, where he had previously resided. The monastery of Kurodani was begun at the end of the 13th century, and gradual additions were made until it was completed in the beginning of the 15th. After being destroyed by fire and rebuilt two or three successive times, the whole establishment was re-erected in the latter part of the 18th century. The chief his- torical interest of Kurodani is its connec- tion with the true and touching story of Kumagai Naozane (see p. 60), who here ex- changed the sword of the soldier for the monk's rosary and life-long penance. In front of the main temple are two beautifully _trained pine- trees, — one called Ogi no Matsu because fan-shaped, the other to the r., Yoroi-kake-matsu because Naozane is said to have hung, up his armour on it. The altar of the main temple is a truly grand mass of gold, with a gold baldachin in the centre, while all around hang beautiful silk banners (maru-bata) and the metal ornaments known as keman, which represent the head- dresses of fairies. A richly gilt shrine contains the effigy of Honen ShoLiiu, carved by himself in 1207, and first brought to this monastery in 1609 ; it is a seated wooden figure with the paiDt rubbed off by frequent cleaning. Two long lac- quered boards, with texts contain- ing the fundamental truths of the sect, hang on the pillars r. and 1. of the altar. Behind the altar in the gallery is a large bold picture of Seishi Bosatsu, called happd shomen, because the eyes seem to look straight at the beholder wherever he stands. It is by Tansaku. Some very large and splendid kakemonos are displayed in this temple from time to time. One is a painted mandara, that is to say, a repre- sentation of the Buddhist paradise with its complicated arrangement of " many mansions." It is a modern copy of a very celebrated piece of embroidery in lotus threads by Taema Chujo-Hime. The other, dating from 1669, is embroidered, and is a splendid specimen of that art. It represents Buddha's Entry into Nirvana (Nehanzb). In the Apartments, which are fine and spacious, a number of works of art are preserved. There are some fine black and gold sliding screens by Kubota Beisen representing a terrific dragon, a folding screen by Tosa-no-Mitsuoki with scenes from the Genji Monogatari, a curious kakemono of the mourning for Honen Shonin by his disciples, a grotesque black statuette of Jurojin by Hidari Jingoro, a remarkable kakemono of fifty Buddhas whose bodies and halos turn out on in- spection to be nothing but the Chinese characters Namtc Amida Butsa constantly repeated, a gilt statue of Amida by Eshin, and round the walls of the same room the whole biography of Honen Shonin in a set of minutely and brilliantly painted kakemonos by an unknown artist. In another room is enshrined, in a richly wrought gilt case, a noteworthy kakemono of Jizo submitting to be burnt in order to save others (Y at a no Jizo). There are also some old kake- monos by Chinese artists, a black image of Shinran Shonin by himself at the age of thirty-five, and in a separate room a kakemono of Nao- zane, together with his rosary, his enormous rice-pestle, and his tre- mendously long and heavy sword. No wonder that the hero is alleged 322 Route 39. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. to have been 7 ft. 8 in. in stature. Next come more images — Amida by Jikaku Daishi with Fudo and Ben ten, and beyond these a kake- mono of the Five-and-twenty Bosatsu Amida in the middle with rays of light streaming from his eye. Be- hind the Apartments lies a pretty garden, the pond meandering through which is called Yoroi-sute no Ike, because Naozane threw his armour into it. On quitting the temple, the visi- tor should glance in 1. at the fine large gilt image of Amida by Genshi Sozu, in the lesser shrine dedicated to that deity. Behind this, at a little distance, is the graveyard where Naozane and Atsumori lie buried. The Kumagai-do, dedicated to the memory of the former, is not worth visiting, neither are the graves. One may, however, on the way to the next sight — the temple of Shinnyo-do — walk through the ceme- tery, which is extensive and prettily situated on the side of a hill crown- ed by a pagoda, and contains several good large bronze Buddhas. Most of the graves are those of Kyoto tradesfolk. Slliunyo-do. a large temple of the Tendai sect, has on its high altar an image of Amida attributed to Jikaku Daishi. The inscription in the tablet over the entrance is by Kobo Daishi. The characters on this tablet are, or should be, j|£ #P ^, Shin-nyo-do. But the middle one is not perfectly formed, whence the proverb Kobo mo fude no ayamari, "Even Kobo Daishi sometimes wrote wrong," as we say that "Homer nods." Kobo Daishi, be it remarked, was as famous for his calligraphy as for his piety and intellectual and physical vigour. Yoslmla- no Ynshiro is an ancient Shinto temple prettily situated on a hill-side. It is octagonal, a form seldom seen in Shinto temples, and is painted white and vermilion. Ginkaktiji* properly Jishdji, is in the vill. of Jodoji-mura, out of the N.E. end of Kyoto at the base of a range of hills forming a spur of Hiei-zan. In 1479 Ashikaga Yoshimasa, after his abdication of the Shogun's dignity, built himself a country house here, the wall of which extended as far as the hill on which sf-ands Shinnyo-do. He is said to have had that temple removed because it stood in his way, but afterwards repenting of the act, to have restored it to its original site at his owu expense. The two-storied building, called Ginkaku (Silver Pavilion), was a summer house in the garden of his principal reception hall, built in imitation of the Kinkaka, or Golden Pavilion, of one of his predecessors (see p. 302). The garden was designed by Soami. It was at Ginkakuji that Yoshimasa, with So- ami and Shuko, his favourites, practised the tea ceremonies, which their patronage elevated almost to the rank of a fine art. The visitor is first shown over the Apartments, the artist of which par excellence is Buson. His sliding screens are all either black and white, or else in the very pale- coloured style called usu-zaishiki. After the rooms adorned by his brush comes one with an image of Yoshimasa in priestly robes, rather black with age but startlingly life- like, and next a tiny tea-room, the first in Japan built in accordance with the canon prescribing 4^ mats as the proper size for such rooms. It has some very sketchy sliding screens by Soami and Okyo, and a sketch of plum-blossoms by Hogen Motonobu — so slight that none but enthusiastic devotees of the tea ceremonies are likely to appreciate it. One is then led into the Garden which produces a charming effect, derived in part from the high, thickly pine-clad hill behind, lend- ing it a really natural aspect. The curiously shaped heap of white sand seen on entering the garden is called Gin Shadan, or the Silver Sand Plat- form. Here Yoshimasa used to sit and hold esthetic revels. The smaller one behind is called the Ko-getsu-dai, or Mound Facing the Moon, where he used to moon-gaze. There is a lake of course, as in all these gardens, and as usual each stone, each bridge, each tree of any size has its name. The rill is called Scn-gctsu-$en y or the Moon-Washing Fountain; a stone in the pond is the Stone of Ecstatic Coutempla- GinkaknjL Shinw-Gamo and Kami-Gamo Temples. 323 tion :; a little bridge is the Bridge of •the Pillar of the Immortals, etc., etc. The Pavilion (Ginkaku) is so dilapidated as to be no longer worth looking at. Enquiry shows that it never was really coated with silver, as its name would imply, Yoshimasa having died before he had got so far. A visit to this place generally ends by the priest who acts as guide •offering the visitor tea in the Cha- no-yu style.' Sliimo-Gamo. This ancient Shinto temple, dedicated to Tamayori-hime under the name of Mioya-no-Kami, was founded in A.D. 677. It was one of the twenty -two chief temples -of the Empire, and is still one of those which are maintained at the expense of the State. This temple stands in a splendid :grove of patriarchal maples, crypto- merias, and evergreen oaks. Parti- cularly curious are two tall sakaki (Cleyera japonica) outside the main gate, which are joined together by a branch that has grown from one trunk into the other. These trees, which are much visited by women who desire to live in harmony with •their husbands, are called renri no ki, and have a small torii in front, showing that they are considered sacred. The temple is surrounded by a painted colonnade, with a red two-storied gate-house in the centre, opposite to which is the Haiclen or oratory, a shed 24 ft. by 18 ft. To the r. are two other sheds called hosodono, where sit the musicians who play for the performers of the sacred Aclzuma-mai dance, and the kashiclono built over a walled canal, used by the reader of the norito or ritual. The canal is called Mita- rashi-gawa, or River of Lustra- tion. The remaining buildings are of the_ same character as in other Shinto shrines. Outside the watch- house facing the main gate, is sus- pended a long picture of Komei Ten- no's progress hither in 1863,— a great event at the time, as it was a prac- tical demonstration of the possibility of the Mikado coming forth from his seclusion to take part in matters political, and thus inaugurated the system under which his son, the present Mikado, governs as well as reigns. One of the smaller shrines is the object of a peculiar supersti- tion. It is believed that evergreens of any species resembling the hiira- gi (a kind of holly) in general ap- pearance, but having no spines on the leaves, will be converted into that species if planted before this chapel ; and shrubs supposed to be in process of transformation are pointed out by the hostess of the adjacent tea-stall. The chapel is appropriately styled Hiiragi no Miya. The principal annual festi- val is celebrated on the 15fch April, when the double cherry-blossoms which adorn the adjacent race- course are all out. The races, how- ever, do not take place till the 5th May. A pretty road leads from Shimo- Gamo to Kami-Gamo through an avenue of pine-trees 50 cho long, formerly the scene of many an Im- perial progress, with the Kamo- gawa to the r., up whose course the avenue goes, while Hiei-zan rises behind it and Kurama-yama ahead. Kami-Gamo. This temple is usually said to have been founded in A.D. 677 by the Emperor Tem- mu, in honour of Wake-ikazuchi-no-Kami ; but there seems to be some uncertainty at- taching to its early history. According to the legend, as Tama-yori-hime, daughter of the god Kamo-no-Take- tsumi, was walking by the side of the stream, there came floating towards her a red arrow winged with a duck's feather, which she picked up and carried home. Shortly afterwards she was discovered to be pregnant, and she eventually gave birth to a son. The father was unknown ; and as her parents disbelieved her declaration' that she had never known a man, they determined, as soon as the child could understand what was said to it, to solve the mystery by resorting to a kind of ordeal. Inviting all the villagers to a feast, they gave the child a wine- cup, telling him to offer it to his father; but instead of taking it to any of the company, he ran out of the house and placed it in front of the arrow which. Tama-yori-Hime had thrust into the roof. 324 Eoute 39. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. Then transforming himself into a thunder- bolt, he ascended to heaven, followed by his mother. This myth evidently originated in an attempt to account for the name of the River Kama, which means "wild-duck." The temple buildings are quite plaiu and beginning to look old. The brick-red colour of the outer and inner palings is striking, though scarcely pretty. In the season of the cherry-blossoms, the place is gay with visitors and tea-booths. At other seasons it can scarcely be recommended except to those who, making a prolonged stay at Kyoto, desire to become acquainted with all its environs, and may then take Kami-Gauio on the way to Kurama-yama, a favourite expe- dition 2 ri further off among the hills. The name Kurama is said to be derived from an incident in the life of the Em- peror Temmu, who, in A.D, 683, in order to escape from Prince Otomo, fled hither on a " saddled horse," which he left tied up at this spot. The walk back from Kurama- yama to Kyoto may be varied by striking over the hills to Shizuhara and Oiiara, whence to Yase 1^ ri. From Yase to the Sanjo Bridge is 2J ri. Sliiigakii-in is an Imperial gar- den at the base of Hiei-zan, plan- ned by the Mikado Go-Mizuno-o in the 17th century. The pagoda of Toji forms the most conspicuous object in the view over the city, ris- ing up as it does in the gap between Otoko-yama and Tenno-zan. The fine cherry-trees and maples were planted by Kokaku Tenno, grand- father of the present Mikado. Environs of Kyoto. As may easily be seen by reference to the map, several of the temples and other places already mentioned are, strictly speaking, in the envi- rons of Kyoto rather than within the limits of the city itself, owing to the already mentioned shrinkage of the latter in modern times. The followiag are, however, still further afield, demanding each the greater part of a day to be done comfortably. 1. Over Hiei-zan to Otsu and! back. This delightful excursion may be varied as to its details. One may either ride the whole way on horseback, or go by jinrikisha to Yase, This village and Ohara close by are noted for the firm step and erect bearing of their women, who, contrary to usual Japanese custom, carry all loads on their heads. From time immemorial, nurses for infants of the Imperial House have been drawn from among these stalwart women. whence by Jcago, or on foot over Hiei-zan to Sakamoto, _thence by boat on Lake Biwa to Otsu, where visit the temple of Miidera, and back to Kyoto either by jinrikisha or railway. Or else one may return from Miidera to Kyoto by boat on the canal, — less than 1 hr*to Keage (see p. 329) , the charge in an omnibus boat {nori-ai-bune) being only a few cents. In either case the day's programme may be so arranged, on starting from Kyoto, as to include a visit to Ginkakuji and Shugaku-in (the latter only for those having ad- mission to the Kyoto palaces). The celebrated view from the summit of Hiei-zan includes a fine panorama of the valley of Kyoto and of Lake Biwa and its shores. Only towards the N. is the prospect cut off by Hirayama. Arrangements should be made for lunching at the summit, in order to enjoy the view at leisure. This grassy spot, known by the name of Shimei-gco-tahe, rises to a height of some 2,700 ft. above sea level. The stone figure in a stone box on the top represents Dengyo Daishi (see p. 54), so placed that he may gaze forever at the Im- perial Palace in Kyoto. Should the weather he too cold for lunching on the hill-top, there is a tea-house a few cho down where one may take shelter. The original name of Hiei-zan was Hie- no-yama, perhaps meaning the Chilly Mountain ; and the Shinto temple of Hie at Sakamoto at the E. foot of the moun- tain, popularly known as Sanno Sama, is called after it.' Hiei-zan doubcless gained religious importance from the fact of it» position due N.E. of the Imperial Palace at Hiei-zan. Iwashimizu. Atago-yama. 325 Kyoto (comp. p. 104, foot of r. col.). During the middle ages Hiei-zan was covered with Buddhist temples and seminaries, the total aggregate of such buildings being stated at the extraordinary number of 3,000; and the monks, who were often ignorant, truculent, and of disorderly habits, became the terror of Kyoto, on which peaceful city they would sweep down after the manner of banditti. At last, in the 16th century, the great warrior Nobunaga, in order to revenge himself upon the monks for having sided with his enemy Asakura, Lord of Echizen, attack- ed the temples and committed them to the flames. The monks were dispersed far and wide until the accession to power of the Tokugawa Shoguns, who re-esta- blished the institution on a smaller scale, the number of the seminaries being thenceforward limited to a hundred and twenty-five. On the way down from Hiei-zan towards Lake Biwa, several of the Buddhist buildings that have sur- vived to the present day in a semi-deserted state, are passed, till at the base, just before the vill. of Sakamoto {Inn, Take-ya), we reach the large Shinto temple of Sanno or Hiyoshi, together with a number of subsidiary shrines, some so small as almost to look like toys. The stillness of the now half-deserted temples, the shade of the grand old trees, and the plashing of rills of water through the spacious grounds, produce a charming impression. No spot could be better fitfce_d for a picnic. On the way into Otsu a halt may be made at the giant pine- tree of Karasaki (see p. 330). 2. Iwashimizn Hacliiman-gii, also called Otoko-yama, is situated to the S.W. of Kyoto on the 1. bank of the Yodogawa, close to the vill. of Yawata, opposite Yamazaki sta- tion on the Tokaido Railway. The temple, which is dedicated to the God of War (see p. 42), stands on a hill some 300 ft. above the river, and is built in the Ryobu Shinto style, on a stone -faced platform 10 ft. high. In former times pilgrims were allowed to walk round the outer edge of the 'Corridor surrounding the building, so that they were able to see the golden gutter between the eaves of the oratory and chapel. This is said to be still in its place, in spite of the great temptation to convert it into current coin. From the E. gate a few nights of steps de- scend to the . well called Iwashi- mizu, that is, " Pure rock water," after which the temple is named. Crossing the river, the visitor should ascend Tenno-zan to the pagoda of Takara-dera, 200 ft. above the bank. Here are buried some of the Choshu men who performed haraMri on the top of the hill above, after the repulse of the at- tack made on the Mikado's palace by the warriors of that clan in 1864. Three hundred feet higher is a gigantic stone torii; and a little further, on the slope where they killed themselves rather than surrender to be treated as common crimi- nals, stands the monument raised to their memory by the prince of Choshu. This hill and the narrow pass between it and the river, occupied by the vill. of Yama- zaki, are famous in Japanese history as the battle-field where Hideyoshi routed the forces of the traitor Akeclri Mitsuhide in 1582, and thus avenged the assassination of his patron Nobunaga. Other places which native holi- day-makers would combine in the same day's expedition are Ao no Komydji, Nagaoka no Tenjin, and Hashimoto. 3. Atago-yama (see p. 98 for de- tails connected with this name) is a conspicuous peak to the N.W. of Kyoto, about 2,900 ft. above the sea. The ascent of it may advantageous- ly be combined with a visit to Omuro Gosho(see p. 304), TJzumasa, and Seiryuji, which all lie in the same direction. Takao also is not far out of the way. A short dis- tance beyond Seiryuji is a red torii at the bottom of a hill call- ed Kokoromi-zaka, which might be rendered " Test Hill," as it puts the pilgrim's endurance to a first trial before he reaches the more arduous ascent to the summit of the moun- tain. Descending to the vill. of Kiyotaki, 17 cho, we cross the stream which lower down unites with the Oigawa to form the Katsura-gawa, and then begin to climb a very steep 326 Route 39. — Kyoto and Neighbourhood. path to the Minakuchi-ya. On the way up, are two resting-places which command a good view of the plain. The last half of the ascent is much less steep, and the distance from the last tea-house to the summit is but 5 did. On_the 1. one catches a glimpse of the Oigawa and the town of Karueoka in the plain of Tamba. There is a fine bronze torii with a boar in relief at the top of the ascent. Several flights of stone steps lead up to the front chapel, which is dedicated to the creatress Izauami and her child the God of Fire, whose birth caused her death. The most common ex-voto is a pic- ture of a wild boar. At the back stands a second chapel dedicated to Toyouke-bime, the Goddess of Food, and two other deities. Charms are sold by the priests as a protection against fire. 4. Kiirama-yania. See p. 324. 5. Rapids of the Katsina-gawa and Araslii-yama. This expedi- tion makes a pleasing variety in the midst of days spent chiefly in visiting temples. The distance from the Kyoto Hotel to the village of Hozu, where boats are engaged for the descent of the rapids, is under 6 ri ; but the road, though practicable for jinrikishas the whole way, is hilly and rough in places, so that two coolies should be taken. A good plan is to engage jinrikishas for the whole round, as none can be counted on at the landing-place at Arashi-yama, the point to which the descent of the river is made. There is no extra charge for taking them in the boat. The charge (1894) for a large boat to descend the rapids is $3J ; but it is advisable to reach Hozu before noon, as the boatmen make a double charge after that hour, on the ground of their not being able to re-ascend the river the same day. Visitors from Kobe or Osaka should alight from the train at Muho- wiachi, the station before reaching Kyoto, and join the road at Katagi- wara, thereby saving in distance 2 ri 9 did and the additional journey by rail. Jinrikishas can be engaged at Mukomachi ; the distance to the junction of the roads at Katagiwara is 18 did. The rapids commence almost im- mediately below Hozu. The bed of the river is very rocky, but the stream at its ordinary height not particular- ly swift. The scenery is charming. The river at once enters the hills which soon rise precipitously on either hand, and continues its- course between them for about IB m. to Arashi-yama. Of the numer- ous small rapids and races, the following are a few of the most exciting : — Koya no taki, or Hut Eapid, a long race terminating in a pretty rapid, the narrow passage being between artificially con- structed embankments of rock ; Takase, or High Rapid ; Shishi no Kuchi, or The Lion's Mouth ; and Tonase-daki, the last on the des- cent, where the river rushes between numerous rocks and islets. One ri before reaching Arashi-yama, the Kiyotaki-gawa falls in on the 1. The descent takes on an average about 2 hrs., but varies slightly ac- cording to the amount of water in the river. There are several good tea-houses at the landing-place at Arashi-yama, whence to the chief hotels in Kyoto takes less than 1 hr. in jinrikisha with two men. After heavy rains the boatmen generally decline to go, as the river then becomes dangerous. 6. Uji (Inns, Yorozu-ya on the Kyoto side of the river, and Kiku- ya on the other side) lies a little under 4 ri S. of Kyoto. There is a good jinrikisha road the whole way. This neat little town, picturesque!}' situated on the Yodogawa, here called Ujigawa, which drains Lake Biwa, is surrounded by tea planta- tions that have been famous for many centuries as producing the finest tea in Japan. Uji and the Phcenix Hall. 327 Tea is believed to have been introduced fromChiuain A.D. 805 by the Buddhist abbot, Dengyo Daishi. The Uji planta- tions date i'roni the close of the 12th century. The tea begins to come to market about the 10th May ; but the pre- paration of the leaf can be seen going on busily in the peasants' houses for some time later. The finest kinds, such as Gyohu-ro ("Jewelled Dew"), are sold at very high prices — as much as from $5 to $7j- per lb. Those, however, who expect to see large firing or selling establishments will be disappointed. Each family works independently in quite a small way, morejaponico, and gives to the tea produced by it whatever fancy name it chooses. The citizens of Kyoto visit Uji in the summer to see the fire-flies, and to enjoy the pretty view up the river which recals that from Arashi- yama. Uji's chief sight is the ancient Buddhist temple of Byodo-in, be- longing to the Tendai sect and con- nected in history with the name of the famous warrior, Gen-sammi Yorimasa. The monastery dates from 1052. Here Gen-sammi Yorimasa committed suicide in A.D. 1180 after the battle of Uji Bridge, where, with 300 warriors, he resisted 20,000 men of the Taira clan, in order to afford time for Prince Mochihito to effect his escape. After prodigies of valour had been performed by this little band, most of whom fell in the defence of the bridge, Yorimasa retired to Byodo-in, and while his remaining followers kept the enemy at bay, calmly ran himself through with his sword in the manner of an ancient Japanese hero. He was then seventy- five years of age. Yorimasa is famous in romance for having, with the aid of his trusty squire I-no-Hayata, slain the monster called Saru-tora-hebi which tormented the Emperor Nijo-no-in. The large stone monument of irregular shape, seen to the 1. on entering the grounds of Byodo-in, was erected in 1887 to hand down to posterity the praises of Uji tea. The building beyond the lotus pond is the Ho-o-do, or Phcenix Hall, A replica of the Phoenix Hall was set up at Chicago by the Japanese Government Commission in 1803, and left as a perma- nent memento of Japan's participation in the World's Fair. one of the most ancient wooden structures in Japan, perhaps the most original in shape, and for- merly one of the most beautiful, though now unfortunately a good deal decayed. It derives its name from the circumstance that it is intended to represent a phoenix, the two-storied central part be- ing the body, and the colonnades r. and 1. the wings, while the cor- ridor behind forms the tail. The ceiling is divided into small coffers inlaid with mother-of-pearl. Round the top of the walls runs a sort of frieze representing the Twenty-five Bosatsu and various female person- ages. The doors and the walls r. and 1. and behind the altar are covered with ancient Buddhist paintings by Tamenari, now almost obliterated, of the Nine Regions of Sukhavdti (Jap. Kitbon Jodo), the Pure Land in the West, where the saints dwell according to their degrees of merit. The altar or stage was originally cover- ed with nasliiji gold lacquer in- laid with mother-of-peav! ; and as every inch of the walls and columns was elaborately decorated with paintings, the effect of the whole when new must have been truly dazzling. By criminal neglect this gem of art was left open for many years to every wind of heaven ; and what between the ravages of the weather and the ravages of thieves, the place has been reduced to its present sad decay. On the roof are two phoenixes in bronze, 3 ft. high, which serve as weathercocks. The Hondo, or present main tem- ple, which is much newer, has no- thing that calls for special mention. The Apartments, though poor, con- tain various objects of interest, — kakemonos, illustrated scrolls, and relics of Yorimasa, among other things his flag which is inscribed with Sanskrit characters, his bow, saddle, and armour, a small coloured 328 Boute 40, — Lake Biwa. image of him in priestly garb which looks like a portrait, and a very old kakemono representing his life and adventures. There is also a flag, interesting as a very early example of the Japanese national device of the red sun on a white ground (Hi no maru). On the sun are inscribed the characters Namu Amida Butsu, and a date corres- ponding to the 30th November, 1185. The collection includes furthermore a number of small Bud- dhist images. The walk up the stream to the temple of Xdshdji by the Uji bridge, is very pretty. The most agreeable way of returning to Kyoto is to take boat, and drop down to the Kyoba- shi at Fushimi in about an hour, whence home by jinrikisha. Ob- serve that an expedition to Uji may be combined with a visit to the Dai- bittsu, San-ju-san-g en-do, Tofuhuji, and the temple of Inari (see pp. 308-11). Instead of following the main road from Kyoto to Uji, some recommend a detour via the temples of Fuji-no-mori and Obaku-san. Both these ancient and once celebrated edifices have, however, fallen into such lamentable decay as really not to be worth going out of one's way to see. Fitji-no-Mori is dedicated to Toneri Shin- no, the chief compiler of the Mhongi, or "Chronicles of Japan," completed A.D. 720. OhaJcu-san, founded in 1659 by a Chinese priest named Ingen, possesses a complete set of wooden blocks for printing the Chinese version of the Buddhist scrip- tures. Those who prefer jinrikisha riding to the train, might go from Kyoto to Nara via Uji — not much more than \ day's run — passing through the vill. of Nagaikeand along the banks of the Kizugawa. ROUTE 40. Lake Biwa. 1. general information \ lake biwa canal. 2. kyoto to otsu. miidera. seta bridge. ishi- yama-dera. hikone. nagahama. chikubu-shima. 1.— General Information. Glimpses of this beautiful lake, whose southern and eastern shores are classic ground, can be obtained from the carriage windows by those travelling on the Tokaido Railway between the stations of Maibara and Baba ; but they are glimpses only. To explore the best portions of the Lake Biwa district thorough- ly, the proper plan is, taking Kyoto as the starting-point, to go to Otsu either by rail or jinrikisha, or else to go over Hiei-zan, as explained on p. 324, to do the southern end of the lake from Otsu as a centre, and then to take one of the little lake steamers from Otsu to Hikone and Nagahama, returning to Otsu by rail, and thence either westwards to Kyoto or eastwards in the direction of Yokohama. The Lake of Omi, generally called Lake Biwa (Biwa-Jco in Japanese), on account of a fancied resemblance between its shape and that of the Chinese guitar, measures some 36 miles in length by 12 m. in width. Its area is approximately equal to that of the Lake of Geneva. Dr. Rein gives its height at about 100 metres "(333 ft.) above the level of the sea; and its greatest depth is said to be the same, but in most places is much less. From Katata towards Seta it be- comes very narrow, while the northern part is oval in shape. On the W. side the mountain ranges of Hiei-zan and Hira- yama descend nearly to the shore, while on the E. a wide plain extends between Musa and Toriimoto towards the boundary of Mino. There are a few small islands in the lake, of which Chikubu-shima near the N. end is the most celebrated. Ac- cording to a legend long firmly believed in by the Japanese, Lake Biwa was produced by an earthquake in the year 4 286 B.C., while Mount Fuji rose out of the plains of Suruga at the same moment. Constant reference is made in J apanese_poetry and art to the " Eight Beauties of Omi " ( Omi General Information. Kyoto to Otsa. HaJc-Jcei), the idea of which was derived, like most other Japanese things, from China, where there are or were eight beauties at a placejealled Siao-Siang. The Eight Beauties of Omi are : the Autumn Moon seen from Ishiyania, the Evening Snow on Hirayarna, the Blaze of Evening at Seta, the Evening Bell of Miidera, the Boats sailing back from Yabase, a Bright Sky with a Breeze at Awazu, Tfcain by Night afc Karasaki, and the Wild Geese alighting at Kata/ta. As usual, conven- tion enters largely into this Japanese choice of specially lovely scenes ; but all foreigners will admit the great general beauty of the southern portion of the lake. A new feature — useful though not beauti- ful— added to the neighbourhood of Otsu by the modern thirst for progress and to meet the needs of the inhabitants of Kyo- to, is the Lake Biwa Canal , which, with the Kavaogawa Canal (now in course of con- struction), the Kamogawa itself, and the Yodogawa, will bring Lake Biwa into navi- gable communication with Osaka Bay. It was begun in 1885, and opened to traffic in the spring of 1890. Carrying goods an(3_ passengers between the pro- vince of Omi and Kyoto, it has brought the rich harvests of the former within the reach of the city markets ; and by irrigat- ing the Yamashina, valley and the upper part of the valley of Kyoto, it has already led to great extension of the area under rice cultivation. It also supplies water-power to mills and manufactories in Kyoto. The main canal is Of m. in length, and in parts of its course runs through long tunnels. The total fall is 143 ft. , and at Keage, near its entrance into Kyoto, the greater part of this fall is utilised for traffic by an incline i m. long, along which the boats, placed in wheeled cradles, are drawn by an elec- tric motor stationed at the foot of the incline. At Keage, at the top of the in- cline, the water of the canal divides, one part flowing in a branch canal, 5| m. long, which runs north of Kyoto and is avail- able only for irrigation and water-power. The other part of the water enters thiee 36 in. pipes and is conveyed by these to the foot of the incline, where, before again forming a navigable canal, it serves to give the power needed to work the electric motor which, by means of a wire cable, runs the boats up and down the incline. This motor also works spinning mills, rice mills, etc., besides a system of incandes- cent and arc electric lights. From the foot of the incline there is another stretch of open canal, with a regulating lock be- tween it and the old canal leading to Fushimi, a suburb of Kyoto. But this old canal being able to pass only boats of small draught, is of little use ; and a new canal, to Fushimi, begun in 1892, is approaching completion. This, the Kamogawa Canal already mentioned, will have eight locks and one canal- incline, and will carry heavy cargo and passenger boats. The cost of the Lake Biwa Canal has been officially stated at 1\ million yen, and was met oner third by an Imperial grant, one-third from the national revenue, and one-third by the citizens of Kyoto. The project of bringing the waters of the lake to Kyoto was conceived and carried out by Mr. K. Kitagaki wnen he was Governor of Kyoto ; and a curious personal item in connection with the matter is the fact that the design of such a water-way, which should also be suited for the transport of men and merchandise, was made the subject of the graduation essay for the diploma of the College of Engineering in Tokyo by a student who then became the engineer entrusted by Governor Kitagald with the execution of the work. It thus came about that a very fine piece of engineering — great both in plan and in execution — was designed and car- ried through successfully by a mere youth, who rose at once to the position of "one of the leading engineers in his country. The same engineer has designed the new Kamogawa Canal; his name is Tanabe Sakuro. For some two years or so, when engaged on the work he lost the use of the fingers of his right hand; and all the writ- ings for his essay, and the beautifully executed drawings were done with the left hand which he trained to the task. The natural drainage of the lake is by a river flowing out of its S. end, which, bears in succession the names of Seta- gawa, Ujigawa, and Yodogawa. It is not navigable in its upper course. After pass- ing circuitously down near Fushimi, where it receives the waters of the canal, it falls into the sea at Osaka. _ Small steamers ply daily between Ofcsu and Hikone, Maibara, and Nagaliama on the E. coast of the lake, and along the W. coast be- tween Ofcsu, Kafcata, Katsuno, etc., ending up at Shiotsu at the N. extremity. 2. — Kyoto to Otsu by Jinrikisha. Otsu and Neighbourhood. The run from Kyoto to Otsu by the Tokaido Kailway takes about | hr. The Ofcsu station, called Baba, stands some way out of the town. For this reason, and also on account of the excellence of the highway, which is part of the historic Tokaido and still retains some of the bustle and pictur- esqueness of former days, many prefer to do the distance by jin- rikisha. One may also thus ad- 330 Route 40. — Lake Biwa. vantageously combine a visit to the Kinkozan Potteries at Awata on the E. outskirt of Kyoto, which are extensive and most interesting, the visitor being shown the whole process, from the kneading of the clay to the painting in gold and colours and the firing of the com- pleted pieces. Leaving Awata, we pass 1. the Lake Biwa Canal, just at the spot (Keage) where the portage by rail takes place. After ascending a gentle rise called Hino- oka-toge, we next see r. the former Execution Ground (Shioki-ba), now turned into a rice-field, and then 1. the Tumulus of Tenji Tennd, a Mikado of the 7th century. It is a mound overgrown with pine-trees, like all the hillsides hereabout. The vill. of Yamashina, which stands on the boundary between the provinces of Yamashiro and Omi, and has furnished a title to one of Japan's Imperial princes, is soon reached, and after it the villages of Oiivake and Otani, where the high-road and the railway run side by side. The gentle ascent next climbed is called Osaka (pro- perly Au saka, "the Hill of Meeting," of course having nothing whatever to with the city of Osaka). On the top formerly stood a barrier, or octroi, constantly referred to in Japanese poetry, and thus described by Semi-maro, one of the bards of the Ilyaku-nin Is-sha, or " Century of Poets," in a stanza which every Japanese knows by heart : The stranger here from distant lands, The friend his home-bound friend may greet ; For on this hill the barrier stands, The gate where all must part and meet.* Just over the top of the hill stands a tiny shrine to Semi- maro. Lake Biwa then comes in view, and a minute later we are in Otsu (Hotel, Minarai-tei, semi- foreign), a flourishing town, capital K ore ya bono Ynku mo kaeru mo Wakorete wa Shine mo shiranu mo Au naku no seki. of the province of Omi and of the prefecture of Shiga, built on the shore of the lake. This city gained an unenviable place in the annals of contemporary Japan, through the attempted murder there of the Czarewitch on the 11th May, 1891. The would-be assassain, Tsuda Sanzo, had distinguished himself on the loyal side in the Satsuma Rebellion, and having subsequently entered the police service, was actually ou duty at the time as one of the