cmssTSLL£1_L Book*_ Copyright If _ CGEffilGHT DEPCSm CLARK'S Weave Room Calculations A practical treatise of cotton yarn and cloth calculations for the weave room, especially applicable to Southern Mills By W. A. GRAHAM CLARK Textile Expert of United States Tariff Commission -^ fc* . .a Copyright 1920 Clark Publishing Company- v ~wi5 ©CU622230 JUL 27 1921 PREFACE. This book is intended primarily for use in the mill, as an aid to those who have to make calcu- lations dealing with cotton cloth. It can also be used as a text book. There is apparently a need for a work of this character as there have been few books dealing with weave room calculations from the practical standpoint and most of these are out of print. The first part of this study contains concise rules for making cloth calculations and these have been grouped to facilitate use. The cloths used to illustrate the working out of the rules are mainly staple plain fabrics such as occur most largely in actual practice. One of the most orig- inal features is that dealing with the ascertain- ment of the contraction in length of warp and filling yarns in the weaving of plain fabrics; in addition to rules there has been compiled a table that shows the contraction percentages for a wide range of combinations of yarn counts and spac- ings and this is illustrated graphically. Attention is called to this particularly because most textile books gloss over this vital phase by intimating that it is impossible to formulate practical rules for ascertaining the contraction in length of yarns during weaving. The second part of this book lists over one thou- sand typical American cloths and shows full par- ticulars including the counts of yarn used in each case. These cloths have been carefully selected and arranged and this tabulation should prove of value alike to cloth manufacturers, cloth dealers, and textile students. A short chapter is added to show the systems used in numbering yarns of different materials, and to bring out salient facts as to materials of interest to the cotton weaver. The, leading tex- tile industries are becoming more and more inter- dependent and silk and artificial silk are now so largely used in cotton mills that the information given as to these materials should prove pertinent. In the appendix are to be found tables of the usual weights and measures, also metric conver- sions for those interested in export trade. W. A. GRAHAM CLARK. Washington, D. C, July 1, 1920. CONTENTS. CLOTH CALCULATIONS: Page Introduction 11 Cloth contraction 13 Cloth regain 17 Reed calculations 20 Warp length compared with cloth length 32 Contraction in weaving plain cloths 36 Table— Faces 36 Chart— Faces 37 Average yarn count 39 The cloth constant 47 Construction calculations 53 Width calculations 56 Weight calculations 59 Percentages of warp, filling, and sizing 63 Selection of yarn counts to make a certain cloth 68 Grey cloth analysis 73 Production problems 80 Table of 100% loom production 90 Loom speed calculations 98 TYPICAL AMERICAN CLOTHS: Cloths woven of unbleached yarns: Duck fabrics: Number ducks 111 Ounce ducks 111 Tire fabrics 113 Twills and sateens: Grey drills, 3-leaf 114 Gray jeans, 3-leaf 115 Wide grey drills, 3-leaf 115 Grey twills, 3-leaf 116 Grey twills, 4-leaf_ 116 Canton flannels 117 Corset coutils 117 Alberts (5-leaf lining twills) 118 Warp sateens 118 Venetians (mere. 8-harness warp sateens) 119 Filling sateens 119 Sheetings (under 28s yarns): Grey osnaburgs 120 Coarse sheetings (14s range) 121 Coarse sheetings (18s range) 122 CONTENTS. Page TYPICAL AMERICAN CLOTHS (Continued): Cloths woven of unbleached yarns (cont'd): Print cloths (28s to 42s yarns): Sheetings (22s range) 123 Sheetings (26s range) 124 Wide sheetings 125 Linoleum fabrics 126 Narrow cheese cloths 127 Tobacco cloths 127 Wide cheese cloths 127 Narrow print cloths 128 Wide print cloths 130 Grey shirtings 131 Fine plains (yarns averaging above 42s): Longcloths 132 Nainsooks 132 India linons 133 Combed lawns 134 Persian lawns 134 Voiles 135 Pajama checks 135 Cotton blankets 136 Quilts (Dimity, crochet, Marseilles, satin) 136 Cloths woven of dyed yarns: Denims, coverts, tickings 137 Coarse stripes, cheviots, siitings, checks and plaids 139 Flannelets, outings, domets 141 Cretonnes 142 Table damasks 143 Ginghams and chambrays 143 Miscellaneous cloths 145 TEXTILE MATERIALS AND YARN NUMBERING: Introduction 151 Raw cotton 153 Cotton yarn 156 Table of lengths for cotton yarns 157 Silk (raw, thrown, waste, spun) 160 Artificial silk and artificial horsehair 166 APPENDIX: Weights and measures 169 Metric equivalents 170 CLOTH CALCULATIONS CLOTH CALCULATIONS INTRODUCTION In cloth calculations the basic factors are the yarns and their spacing, in other words the warp counts, the filling counts, the sley, and the pick. The other factors are all based on these. Every factor is part of a mathematical equation so that no factor can be changed without involving a change in one or more other factors in order to make the equation balance. The problem is to define the nature of the relationship between vari- ous factors so that in cloth calculations any un- known factor may be readily ascertained from its relationship to known factors. The study of cloth calculations and the use of the most concise rules would be much aided if each factor had a standard symbol; for instance there is a saving of both time and space in using the letter "T" instead of writing out "total threads per square inch" or "the sum of the sley and pick." It would be well if the cotton trade and industry would adopt uniform symbols for the main factors that occur in clotji calculations. Where possible these should be, for convenience in remembering, the first letter of the factor re- ferred to and the following are those most largely used: Let A = Average yarn count. W = Warp yarn count. F = Filling yarn count; E = Ends per inch in cloth. P = Picks per inch. [■[ ' ■ T = Total threads per square inch ■ - ' • - (=E-KP) •■ B = Breadth Or width of cloth. Y — Yards per pound. 12 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS Z = Ounces per yard. S = Square yards per pound. R = Reed, in dents per inch. C = Cloth Constant that allows for con- traction in warp and in filling and for sizing on warp. Tne most important cloth calculation equation is AC = BYT. This equation is a basis for as- certaining various factors and will be discussed in detail later on. Cloth calculations are also sometimes facili- tated by the use of certain constant numbers. For instance in calculations involving 7000 (grains in a pound) and 840 (yards in a hank), the constant 8.33 can be substituted if the 7000 is divided by the 840, or the constant .12 can be sub- stituted if the 840 is divided by the 7000. Simi- larly .2314 can be substituted for 7000 divided by 36 X 840, or 4.32 can be substituted for 36 X 840 divided by 7000. In simple equations, however, it is often quicker to cancel numbers common to both dividend and divisor rather than to substi- tute decimal numbers. A "cloth constant" is used to compensate for contraction in width and length and for sizing on warp. It is, however, constant only for the par- ticular set of conditions stated and in the follow- ing pages the method of ascertaining it for any known set of conditions is fully stated. A description of a cloth involves stating the weave, the width, the ends per inch, the picks per inch, the warp yarn, the filling yarn, and the weight. For instance a full description of the cloth that is most typical of the American cotton industry today would be : A 38% inch, 64 X 60, CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 13 30s.40s, 5.35-yard print cloth. This description gives every essential particular. In commercial quotations the yarn counts are usually omitted and different mills will use slightly different yarn counts, and slightly different percentages of sizing on the warp, to get the same result. The number of warp threads or "ends" in the cloth is known as the sley, whereas the number of filling threads per inch in the cloth is known as the pick. The term "cloth construction' ' usually refers to the ends and picks in a square inch of cloth, thus the construction of the print cloth above is 64 X 60. In stating the construction the sley is always given first and the pick second, the 64 in this case therefore referring to the ends of warp per inch and the 60 to the picks of filling per inch. Similarly in giving yarn counts, say 30s. 4Qs, the warp yarn count is stated first and the filling yarn count second. CLOTH CONTRACTION The width of the woven cloth is less than the width of the warp in the reed. The length of the woven cloth is less than "the length of the warp from the slasher. The contraction (also called shrinkage or take-up) in width and in length is affected by several factors but as it is due to the necessity of the two sets of interweaving threads bending out of their course to pass around each other it depends primarily on the spacing of the yarns and on their diameters. The subject of contraction, which merits more attention than is usually given to it, may be clarified by stating certain known facts in regard thereto. The spacing of the interlacings is, in ordinary 14 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS cloths, a more important factor than the diameter of the yarn counts, that is, an increase of one pick per inch will normally increase the warp con- traction more than hea vying the warp or filling yarns by several counts. The more the interlacings the more the shrink- age and therefore the greater the length of yarn required to produce a given width or length of cloth. A plain- woven cloth will require a greater length of yarn than a 2-up and 1-down twill and this in turn will require a greater length of yarn than a 2-up and 2-down twill. Using print-cloth yarns of the same counts, a 40 X 40 tobacco cloth will shrink less in warp and filling than will a 60 X 60 print cloth and this in turn will shrink less than an 80x80 longcloth. When sley and pick are equal and the warp and filling of the same counts, the contraction will be nearly equal in width and in length ; the greater tension on the warp yarn in some cases making the filling contraction slightly the greater. In ordinary plain cloths, where the warp and filling yarns do not differ greatly, and the sley is slightly in excess of the pick, the filling con- traction exceeds the warp contraction. In a 64 X 60 print cloth made of 30s and 40s yarns the warp contraction will normally be around 5%% and the filling contraction around 61/2%- Using the same yarns but making the cloth 60 X 64 the warp contraction would be around 6.%% and the filling contraction around 5%%. Warp sateens will shrink more in width and less in length than will filling sateens of the same class. Fine-yarn goods shrink less than coarse yarn CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 15 goods. The coarser and H stiff er the- .yarn the greater the shrinkage. Soft-spun filling is flattened by harder twisted warp and-- Mie warp contraction is therefore ordi- narily less than would be the case if the filling was twisted as hard as the warp. Ply yarns are normally harder twisted and therefore shrink more than would equivalent sin- gle counts. Th* rules that the more trie interlacings the more the shrinkage and the finer the yarns the less the shrinkage are subject to modifications for special conditions. In filling-corded fabrics such as repps and poplins, where the filling is consid- erably coarser than the warp and the sley greatly in excess of the pick, the filling lies almost straight and the warp does all the bending. This is due to the fact that the warp ends are too close to- gether to afford room for the coarse filling to bend around them. Some velvets and other pile- fabrics contain so many picks that beyond a cer- tain point the warp contraction is decreased be- cause the warp yarn is held and stretched beyond its elastic limit. In fancy fabrics the shrinkage of. different ends, due to difference in yarn counts or W dif- ference in character, of weave, is frequently such as to necessitate their being wound on separate beams. In some instances, however, this may be obviated by proper variation ip i; reeding. For in- stance a warp satin stripe with a plain ground may be woven on one beam, because- th&>warp; ends in the stripe are drawn four or six to a dent, and being crowded together they do not have to lie as straight and flat as they would if drawn two to 16 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS a dent as are the warp ends for the plain ground. The shrinkage or contraction is affected not only by the nature of the fabric but also by the loom on which it is woven. Cloth woven on a loom with a high take-up roller will not shrink as much in width as cloth woven on an ordinary loom. The greater the tension in weaving the more the shrinkage in width and the less the shrinkage in length. For instance, cloth woven on looms with stop motions will usually show one or two per cent more shrinkage in width and one or two per cent less shrinkage in length than would the same cloth on ordinary looms, this being due to the fact that the warp has to be kept more tightly stretched to prevent contact by the drop wires. Any variation in the spacing of interlacings or in the diameter of the yarns means a variation in the contraction and hence in the length of yarn required to weave a certain length and width of cloth. To find filling contraction, knowing cloth width and width warp in reed: Rule 1. — Subtract the width in cloth from the width in reed and divide by the width in reed. Example: The warp for a 36-inch sheeting was spaced 39% inches in reed. What was the contraction from reed to cloth? 39.375 — 36 Answer: — = 8.57% filling con- 39.375 traction. CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 17 To find warp contraction, knowing cloth length and warp length: Rule 2. — Subtract the length of cloth from the length of warp and divide by the length of warp. Example : A 40-yard cut of sheeting was made from 43% yards of warp. What was the contrac- tion from warp to cloth? 43.75 _ 40 Answer: = 8.57% warp con- 43.75 traction. To find length of filling or warp used, know- ing cloth width or length and contraction per- centages: Rule 3. — Divide the cloth width or length by 1 minus the percentage of contraction. Example : A heavy sheeting is 36 inches wide and 40 yards long. If the filling contraction was 8.57% and the warp contraction also 8.57%, what was the width of warp in reed and the length of warp required? Answer : 36 (inches) 36 39.375 in. width in reed. 1 _ .0857 .9143 40 (yards) 40 = 43.75 yards warp re- 1 — .0857 .9143 quired. CLOTH KEGAIN Expressed in inches, contraction and regain are the same. Expressed in percentages, as more 18 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM C ADULATIONS customary, contraction and regain are never the same, as the percentage of contraction is based on the original width or length, whereas the percent- age of regain is based on the finished width or length. Errors are occasionally made in cloth cal- culations through confusing regain with contrac- tion and an illustration may be useful in empha- sizing the difference. Suppose width of warp in reed to be 30 inches and width of cloth made therefrom to be 28% inches. The warp has shrunk 1% inches in width and the cloth would need to regain 1% inches to attain its original width. The percentage of contraction in width is the original width minus the finished width, divided by the original width. In this case, : 30 _ 28i/ 2 li/ 2 1 == = • — = 5% contraction. 30 30 20 The percentage of regain to be added to the cloth width to give the original width of warp in reed is equal to the original width minus the fin- ished width, divided by the finisnen width, in this case: 30 _ 28i/ 2 1% 1 = = — = 5.26% regain. 28% 28i/ 2 19 The same relation between contraction and re- gain applies to the warp as well as to the filling. Suppose 63 yards of warp from the slasher are required to produce a 60 yard cut of cloth. Then 63 — 60 the warp contraction is == 4.76% and 63 63 — 60 the warp regain is = 5%. 60 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 19 From the above the relationship between con- traction and regain is seen to be as follows : 1 Per cent contraction = 1 1 + % regain 1 Per cent regain 1 — % contraction and (1 — % contraction) X (1 + % regain) = 1 REED CALCULATIONS Calculations for reed, for contraction in width, and for regain in width, are interdependent and a rule for one implies a rule for the others. This is sometimes overlooked and we have the anomaly afforded by a writer stating that it is impossible to formulate a rule for contraction in width and then going ahead and stating a rule for ascer- taining the reed to give a certain sley. There is one point here that should be noted. Contraction in width from reed to cloth is based on width of warp in reed, and regain from cloth to reed is based on clo^h width. The ends per inch, however, are a reciprocal of the width, that is, 64 ends to the inch means that the threads are spaced one sixty-fourth of an inch apart. In reed calculations, therefore, the use of contraction and regain percentages must be the reverse of their use in width calculations. For instance, if the filling contraction for a 36-inch, 48 X 48, sheeting is 8.57% we would find width of warp in reed by dividing 36 by .9143 (i. e. by 1 minus 8.57%), obtaining 39.375 inches, but we would find the reed by multiplying 48 by .9143, obtaining 43.88 ends per inch in reed and this latter divided by 2 ends per dent would give 21.94 dents per inch. Warps may be sleyed 1, 2, 3, 4, or even more ends to the dent ; for ordinary plain cloth 2 ends to the dent is the rule. In reed calculations it is only necessary to give rules for finding the ends per inch in reed as the dents per inch are obtain- able therefrom by dividing by a simple number. CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 21 To find dents per inch in reed, knowing ends per inch in reed and ends per dent: Rule 4. — Divide ends per inch in reed by ends per dent. Example : A warp is to be drawn in with 60 ends to the inch in the reed. What reeds would be required if the warp were sleyed 1, 2, 3 or 4 ends per dent respectively? Answer: If there are 60 ends to the inch a 60 reed is required for 1 end per dent ; a 30 reed for 2 ends per dent; a 20 reed for 3 ends per dent ; a 15 reed for 4 ends per dent. To find number of dents occupied by an equally reeded warp, knowing total ends, sel- vage ends, and ends per dent: Rule 5. — From total ends subtract half the sel- vage ends and divide by number of ends per dent. Example: A print cloth is woven with 2500 ends in the warp, including 32 selvage ends. How many dents required? 2500 — 16 Answer : — = 1242 dents total. 2 To find width of warp in reed, knowing total ends in warp, selvage ends, ends per dent, and reed: Rule 6. — From total ends subtract half the sel- vage ends and divide by ends per dent and b$ dents per inch. 22 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS Example : A print cloth is woven with 2500 ends in the warp, of which 32 are selvage ends drawn in 4 ends to the dent. Using a 30 dent reed, what is width of warp in reed ? 2500 — 16 Answer: = 41.4 inches in reed. 2 X 30 To find reed required to produce a given sley with a known or estimated contraction in width from reed to cloth: Rule 7. — Multiply ends per inch in cloth by 1 minus the percentage of filling contraction; di- vide result by ends per dent. Example : A print cloth has 64 ends per inch in the cloth. How many dents per inch in reed if filling contraction be taken as 6%%? Answer : 1 — .065 = .935. 64 X .935 = 59.84. For plain cloth there are used 2 ends per dent so 59.84 -f- 2 = 29.92 dent reed. Note — If the regain had been given instead of the contraction, say 6.95% filling regain, then the reed would have been found by division instead of by multiplication, thus 64 ~ 1.0695 = 59.84 and this divided by 2 ends per dent would have given the same 29.92 dent reed as above. To find average number of ends per inch in an unequally reeded fabric, knowing the ends and dents per pattern and the reed: Rule 8. — Multiply number of ends in one pat- tern by number of reed; divide result by number of dents in pattern. CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 23 Example: What is the average number of ends per inch in reed if the warp is drawn in with 24 ends in 12 dents and 48 ends in 12 dents alter- nately, using a 30 dent reed ? ° l Answer: ! 72 ends in pattern X 30 dent reed 24 dents in pattern ends per inch in reed. 90 average To find ends per inch in reed, knowing sley and yarn counts: Rule 9. — Square the distance between warp ends in cloth and add the square of the diameter of the average yarn count. The reciprocal of the square root of their sum is the number of ends per inch in reed. Example: A print cloth is to be made with 64 ends of 30s warp and 60 picks of 40s filling. How many ends per inch in reed required? Answer : The average yarn count is 33.8s and this has 33.8 X 840 or 28,392 yards per pound. The square root of 28,392 is 169 and the diameter 1 of 33.8s yarn is therefore inch. The distance 169 between warp ends is equal to the reciprocal of the sley, in this case it is 1/64 inch. Let r == dis- tance between ends in reed, e === distance between ends in cloth, and d == diameter of average yarn count. Then 24 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS r 2 = e 2 + d 2 = (l/64) 2 + d/169) 2 (A) 1 1 == + (B) 4096 28,392 32,488 116,293,632 1 (C) (D) (E) 59.84 Therefore 59.84 is number of ends per inch in reed. With 2 ends to the dent we have 59.84 ~ 2 = 29.92 dents per inch in reed. Since the diameter of yarn is equal to the recip- rocal of the square root of the number of yards to the pound, and since the above rule calls for the squaring of the diameter, which gets back to the number of yards to the pound, the equation (A) may be eliminated and the above rule shortened to the following : Rule 9-a. — To the square of the reciprocal of the sley add the reciprocal of the number of yards to the pound of the average yarn count. The re- ciprocal of the square root of their sum is the number of ends per inch in reed. Note — From equation (B) it is seen that the spacing between ends in the cloth has a much more important influence on the reed and hence on the contraction between reed and cloth than CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 25 has the diameter of the yarns. In obtaining equa- tion (C) we add 4096 and 28,392 to get the divi- dend 32,488 and multiply 4096 by 28,392 to get the divisor 116,293,632. Dividing 116,293,632 by 32,488 we simplify the equation (C) to the equa- tion (D). The square root of the latter repre- sents the distance between ends in the reed so its reciprocal 59.84 must be the number of ends per inch in the reed. Having the number of ends per inch in the reed and in the cloth the contraction from reed to cloth is simply a matter of subtraction and di- vision, thus in the above case (64 — 59.84) -r- 64 = 6.5% filling contraction. The above rule for ob- taining ends per inch in reed therefore implies also a rule for ascertaining the filling contraction. Fig. 1. Explanation of Rule 9 : Rule 9 is almost obvious from Fig. 1 herewith which represents a cross section across the cloth and shows how a pick of filling is bent out of its course by having to pass over and under the warp threads. The relation of the reed to the sley is made plain from the triangle having one side marked d, one side marked e, and the sloping por- tion, which is known as the hypotenuse, marked r. The side d represents the distance from the center of a filling thread to the center of a warp thread at the point where they cross, in other 26; ; .CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS words it is the average diameter of the two. As the diameter of the warp yarn is increased by the addition of sizing, d is taken as the. diameter of the average yarn count. This is more correct than to use the diameter of the arithmetical aver- age of, the warp and filling before weaving but the margin of error in the latter case would usually be very slight. The side e represents the distance between warp ends in the cloth and is therefore the reciprocal of the sley. The hypotenuse r represents the dis- tance between warp ends in the reed, this is clear as it is the length of filling required to produce a width of cloth equal to the distance between warp ends. By mathematics the square of the hypote- nuse of a right angled triangle is equal to the sum of the squares of the two sides, therefore r 2 = e 2 + d 2 . In rules that are often used for ascertaining the reed from the sley alone, disregarding the yarn count as the less important factor, there is used as a base a number that is 1 less than the sley and the reed figured from this with the use of an average regain or contraction of 5 per cent. The reduction of the sley by 1 is due to the necessity of obtaining a sliding rate of change in the regain or contraction that will approximate as near as may be to that obtained in actual practice where ordinarily the finer the reed the finer the yarn counts. We will state both rules and see how near they approach to the more accurate system out- lined in Rule 9. To find approximate ends per inch in reed, knowing sley: CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 27 Rule 10. — Deduct 1 from the sley and multiply by .95. Example : A cloth has 64 ends per inch. How many ends per inch in reed ? Answer : 64 — 1 = 63. 63 x .95 = 59.85 ends per inch in reed. If 2 ends to the dent then the reed has 59.85 -h 2 == 29.92 dents per inch. To find approximate ends per inch in reed, knowing sley: Rule 11. — Deduct 1 from the sley and divide by 1.05. Example : A cloth has 64 ends per inch. How many ends per inch in reed? Answer : 64 — 1 = 63. 63 ~- 1.05 = 60 ends per inch in reed. If 2 ends to the dent then the reed has 60 -f- 2 = 30 dents per inch. Note.— 1 — 5% = .95. 1 + 5%"= 1.05. It will be seen in Rule 10 there has been assumed a 5% contraction, and in Rule 11 a 5% regain, after sub- tracting 1 from the sley to compensate for the variation in contraction or regain due to varia- tion in yarn counts. Contrast op Rules 9, 10 and 11. To contrast Rules 9, 10 and 11 we will first se- lect three standard cloths and ascertain the re- sults. Suppose we take a coarse cloth, say a 48 X 48, 14s. 14s, sheeting; a medium cloth, say a 64 X 60, 30s.40s, print cloth; and a fine-yarn cloth, say an 88 X 80, 60s.l00s, India linon. For the cloths stated the results according to the three rules would be as follows: 28 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS Sheeting. Print Cloth. India Linon. Reed By Rule 9 21.95 29.92 41.50 By Rule 10 22.32 29.92 41.32 By Rule 11 22.38 30.00 41.43 Contraction By Rule 9 8.54% 6.45% 5.70% By Rule 10 7.00% 6.45% 6.08% By Rule 11 6.75% 6.67% 5.95% It is evident that the approximate" Rules 10 and 11 are based on print cloth constructions and print cloth yarns. If Rule 9 is accepted as accu- rate for plain cloths then both of the approximate rules show too fine a reed, giving too little contrac- tion, on coarse goods, and too coarse a reed, giv- ing too much contraction, on fine goods. For coarse goods Rule 10 is more nearly correct than Rule 11, whereas on fine goods Rule 11 approxi- mates better the actual conditions. The farther away from print cloth yarns used in print cloth constructions is the problem given the greater is the error in using the approximate rules 10 and 11. The error in considering only the yarn spacing and disregarding the other factor of yarn diame- ters can be brought out by considering different yarn counts used in the same reed. For instance, let us compare a wide sheeting, say a 63-inch, 64 X 68, 21s.24s, 2 yds. per lb., and a print cloth, say the 38i/ 2 -mch, 64 X 60, 30s.40s, 5.35 yds. per lb. In the first case the average yarn count is 22.4s and in the latter case 33.8s. Using Rule 9 we find that the sheeting was woven with a 29 reed and the print cloth with a 29.92 reed. Ac- cording to approximate rule 10 both would be CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 29 woven with a 29.92 reed, and according to approx- imate rule 11 both would be woven with 30 reed. Rules 10 and 11 would therefore show filling con- traction for both sheeting and print cloth to be the same, 6.45% according to the first rule and 6.67% according to the second. That this is not correct is obvious and Rule 9 brings out the true condition, that the filling contraction on the sheet- ing would be 9.375% as compared with 6.45% on the print cloth. To find sley that would be woven with a given reed and yarn counts: Rule 12. — From the square of the distance be- tween ends in the reed, subtract the reciprocal of the yards per pound of the average yarn count. The reciprocal of the square root of their differ- ence is the sley. Note — This rule is derived from Rule 9-a. Example: A wide sheeting is to be woven with 21s warp and 24s filling, using a 29 dent reed. How many ends per inch in the cloth pro- duced? Answer: The ends per inch in reed are 29 X 2 = 58. The distance between ends in the reed is therefore 1/58 and this squared is 1/3364. The average yarn count is 22.4s and this contains 22.4 X 840 = 18,816 yards to the pound. Then from Fig. 1 and explanation under Rule 9, we 30 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS know that r 2 = e 2 e 2 and e •e sley = + d 2 , therefore i = r 2 — d 2 1 1 3364 18,816 15,452 63,297,024 1 Therefoi 4096 1 ~64 = 64 ends per inch in cloth, To find approximate sley that would be woven with a given reed: Rule IS.— Divide ends in reed by .95 and add 1. Rule 13-a. — Multiply ends in reed by 1.05 and add 1. Example : A wide sheeting is to be woven with 21s warp and 24s filling, using a 29 dent reed. How many ends per inch in cloth produced ? Answer: (29 x 2) ~ .95, + 1 = 61 + 1 = 62 ends per inch in cloth. Answer: (29 X 2) -=- 1.05, + 1 === 60.9 + 1 = 61.9 ends per inch in cloth. Note — These approximate rules are based on Rules 10 and 11. In this case of a standard cloth which uses coarse yarns in a medium reed the margin of error is even larger than in the con- trast made after Rule 11 where coarse yarns were CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 31 used in a coarse reed, medium yarns in a medium reed, and fine yarns in a fine reed. Rules 10, 11, 13 and 13-A are safe only for print cloth yarns in print cloth constructions and to find reed from sley or sley from reed it is safest to use Rules 9 and 12. WARP LENGTH COMPARED WITH CLOTH LENGTH To find length of warp required to produce a given length of cloth, knowing picks per inch and yarn counts- Rule 14. — Square the reciprocal of the pick and add the reciprocal of the number of yards to the pound of the average yarn count. Obtain the reciprocal of the square root of their sum. Sub- tract this from the pick and divide by the pick to get percentage of warp contraction. The length of cloth required divided by 1 minus the per cent, warp contraction gives length of warp required. Note — This Rule is derived from Rule 9-A. Example : A print cloth is made with 64 ends of 30s warp and 60 picks of 40s filling. How many yards of warp required for a 60 yard cut of cloth ? Answer : Pick = 60. (1/60) 2 = 1/3600. Av- erage yarn count is 33.8s and this has 33.8 X 840 or 28,392 yards to the pound. Then 1 1 r 2 = 1 3600 28,392 31,922 102,211,200 1 3195 1 and r = — 56.52 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 33 The warp contraction = (60 — 56.52) -f- 60 = 5.6%. The length warp required = 60 yards -~ (1 ._ 5.6%) = 60 -f- .944 = 63.55, say 63i/ 2 yds. Note — Attempts have been made by some to formulate empirical rules for quickly ascertaining the approximate percentage of warp contraction. A rule that is often given is : "Multiply the pick by 3.5 and divide by the counts of the filling." This is a very unsafe rule; nine times out of ten the results are entirely wrong. For instance it would show the warp contraction on a 48 X 48, 14s. 14s, sheeting as 12%, whereas Rule 14 would prove it to be the same as the filling contraction or 8.54% ; it would show the warp contraction on a 64 X 60, 30s.40s, print cloth as 7%, whereas Rule 14 shows it to be 5.60% ; it would show the warp contrac- tion on an 88 X 80, 60s.l00s, India Hnon as 2.80%, whereas Rule 14 shows it to be 4.78%. This approximate rule is an attempt to take into consideration both the spacing and the yarn counts but goes at it in a more or less hit-or-miss method. Warp contraction, like filling contraction, is based on the spacing and the yarn diameters so if an approximate rule is desired the best results would be obtained from an adaptation of Rule 10, thus To find approximate warp contraction, know- ing pick: Rule 15. — Deduct 1 from the pick and multiply by .95. Subtract result from the pick and divide by the pick. 34 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS Example : A cloth has 60 picks per inch. What is warp contraction? Answer : 60 — 1 = 59. 59 X .95 == 56.05. 60 — 56.05 - = 6.58%. 60 Knowing cloth length and warp contraction the length warp required in this case is 60 yards -4- (1 — 6.58%) = 60 -4- .9342 = 64.22 yards. Note — This rule would show, similarly, 7% warp contraction for a 48 X 48, 14s.l4s, sheet- ing and 5.56% warp contraction for a 88 X 80, 60s.l00s, India linon. As in the case of Rule 10 it gives too little contraction on coarse goods and too much contraction on fine goods but is a closer approximation than the rule for dividing pick by filling counts and multiplying by 314. It is much safer to use Rule 14, which is much simpler to op- erate than to state, even though a few more fig- ures are involved, than to use rough approxima- tions which may or may not be within speaking distance of the correct answer. To find length of warp required for a given length of special cloths such as lenos, lappets, or towels: ■■ J Rule 16. — Measure off a convenient length in the cloth, say 36 inches, and cut; take out sndS of ^special yarns included, straighten without stretching, and re-measure. The length of the yarn out of the cloth minus the length of the yarn in the cloth, divided by the length of the yarn out of the cloth, is the warp contraction of each.; CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 35 Example: The ground threads from a yard of lappet-woven cloth, after straightening with- out stretching, measure 38 inches; similarly the lappet ends from a yard of cloth measure 60 inches. What was the warp contraction of each kind of yarns? Answer: Ground ends: (38 — 36)^-38 = 5.26% warp contraction. Lappet ends : (60 — 36) -+- 60 = 40% warp contraction. Note — This operation has to be performed very carefully so as to get the correct original length of the yarns by taking out all of the wavi- ness without unduly stretching. It is best to take at least 36 inches for with a short length such as 5 or 10 inches the margin of possible error would be much increased. CONTRACTION IN WEAVING PLAIN CLOTHS Calculations for the reed to produce a given sley and for the slasher length required to pro- duce a given length of cut are both based on the ascertainment of the percentage of contraction or take-up in weaving. It has been shown that for any individual case Rule 9, with the derived Rule 14, will give accurate results. For the convenience of those who have to ascertain either the reed or the warp length the following table, based on Rule 9, has been worked out to show the contrac- tion in warp and in filling in the weaving of plain cloths. The table is arranged to include all plain cotton cloths using from 6s up to 100s yarns and constructions of from 32 to 136 ends per inch. It has been charted so that any intermediate set of conditions can be readily ascertained without the necessity of working out the formula given. The contraction in weaving depends primarily on the threads per inch crossed by the yarn, warp or filling, and secondarily on the average yarn count. The size of warp and of filling yarns to- gether affect both warp and filling contraction, so that the average yarn count is the correct basis to use. If the average yarn count is not known accurately then it is permissible to use the arith- metical average of the warp and filling counts as the margin or error in such case will usually be small. In using the table or chart the fact should be borne in mind that the contraction of warp yarn depends most largely on the number of picks Contraction In Weaving PlainJCloths Average varn Threads per inch crossed by the yarn C _^ 3 1 3 1 4 ° 44 1! 5? 5? «? 64 68 72 76 80 84 88 92 96 100 104 108 112 116 120 124 128 132 136 6 8.8 10.8 12.9 15.0 17.1 19.3 21.3 23.4 25.6 27.8 .... ■ — — — — ^ 136 7 7.7 9.5 11.4 13.3 15.2 17.1 19.0 21.0 23.0 25.0 27.0 29.0 8 6.8 8.4 10.1 11.9 13.7 15.5 17.3 19.1 20.9 22.7 24.6 26.5 28.4 . 9 6.1 7.6 9.2 10.8 12.5 14.2 15.9 17.6 19.3 21.0 22.7 24.5 26.3 28.1 • 10 5.6 7.0 8.4 9.9 11.4 13.0 14.6 16.2 17.9 19.6 21.3 23.0 24.6 26.3 280 12 4.7 5.8 7.1 8.4 9.8 11.2 12.7 14.2 15.7 17.2 18.7 20.2 21.7 23.2 24.7 2.6*2 27*9 14 4.1 5.0 6.1 7.3 8.6 9.9 11.2 12.5 13.9 15-3 16.7 18.1 19.5 20.9 22.3 23.7 25'l 26*5 279 16 3.6 4.5 5.5 6.5 7.6 8.7 9.9 11.1 12.4 13.7 15.0 16.3 17.6 18.9 20.2 21.5 22.8 24*2 25.6 27'(3 28*4 18 3.2 4.1 5.0 5.9 6.8 7.9 9.0 10.1 11.3 12 - 5 13-7 14.9 16.1 17.3 18.5 19.8 21.1 22.4 23.6 24.8 26.0 27.2 28'.4 20 2.9 3.7 4.5 5.3 6.2 7.2 8.2 9.2 10.3 n - 4 12.5 13.6 14.8 16.0 17.2 18.4 19.6 20.8 22.0 23.2 24.3 25.4 26 5. 27 4 28*8 22 2.7 3.4 4.1 4.9 5.7 6.6 7.5 8.5 9.5 10 -5 11.6 12.7 13.8 14.9 16.0 17.1 18.2 19.3 20.4 21.5 22.6 23.7 24.8 25.9 27.0 28 2 24 2.5 3.1 3.8 4.5 5.3 6.1 6.9 7.8 8.8 9-8 10.8 11.8 12.8 13.8 14.8 15.9 17.0 18.1 19.2 20.3 21.4 22.5 23.6 24.7 25.8 26.8 27 8 26 2.3 2.8 3.4 4.1 4.9 5.7 6.5 7.3 8.2 9-1 10.0 11.0 12.0 13.0 14.0 15.0 16.0 17.0 18.1 19.2 20.3 21.4 22.4 23.4 24.4 25.4 26.4 28 2.1 2.6 3.2 3.8 4.5 5.2 6.0 6.8 7.7 8.6 9.4 10.3 11.3 12.2 13.2 14.2 15.2 16.2 17.2 18.2 19.2 20.2 21.2 22.2 23.2 24.2 25.2 30 2.0 2.4 2.9 3.6 4.2 4.9 5.6 6.4 7.2 8.0 8.9 9.8 10.7 11.6 12.5 13.4 14.4 15.4 16.4 17.3 18.2 19.2 20.2 21.2 22.2 23.2 24.1 32 1.9 2.3 2.8 3.4 4.0 4.6 5.3 6.0 6.8 7.6 8.4 9.0 10.1 11.0 11.9 12.8 13.7 14.6 15.5 16.4 17.3 18.2 19.1 20.0 21.0 22.0 23.0 34 1.8 2.2 2.7 3.2 3.8 4.4 5.1 5.8 6.5 7.2 8.0 8.8 9.6 10.4 11.2 12.1 13.0 13.9 14.8 15.7 16.6 17.5 18.4 19.3 20.2 21.1 22.0 36 1.7 2.1 2.6 3.1 3.6 4.2 4.8 5.5 6.2 6.9 7.6 8.4 9.2 10.0 10.8 11.6 12.4 13.3 14.1 14.9 15.8 16.7 17.6 18.5 19.4 20.3 21.2 38 1.6 2.0 2.4 2.9 3.4 4.0 4.6 5.2 5.9 6.6 7.3 8.0 8.8 9.6 10.4 11.2 12.0 12.7 13.5 14.3 15.1 15.9 16.8 17.7 18.6 19.5 20.4 40 1.5 1.8 2.2 2.7 3.2 3.8 4.4 5.0 5.6 6.2 6.9 7.6 8.3 9.1 9.8 10.6 11.4 12.2 13.0 13.8 14.6 15.4 16.2 17.0 17.9 18.8 19.6 45 1.4 1 7 2.0 2.4 2.9 3.4 3.9 4.4 5.0 5.6 6.2 6.8 7.5 8.2 8.9 9.6 10.3 11.0 11.8 12.6 13.3 14.0 14.8 15.6 16.4 17.2 18.0 50 12 15 18 2 2 2 6 3.0 3.5 4.0 4.5 5.0 5.6 6.2 6.8 7.4 8.0 8.7 9.4 10.1 10.8 11.5 12.2 12.9 13.6 14.3 15.0 15.8 16.6 60 10 13 1.6 1.9 2.2 2.6 3.0 3.4 3.8 4.3 4.8 5.3 5.8 6.3 6.9 7.5 8.1 8.7 9.3 9.9 10.5 11.1 11.7 12.2 13.1 13.8 14.5 70 9 11 13 16 1.9 2.2 2.5 2.9 3.3 3.7 4.1 4.6 5.1 5.6 6.1 6.6 7.1 7.6 8.1 8.6 9.1 9.7 10.3 10.9 11.5 12.1 12.7 80 8 1 1 2 1 4 1 7 2 2.3 2.6 2.9 3.3 3.7 4.1 4.5 4.9 5.3 5.7 6.2 6.7 7.2 7.7 8.2 8.7 9.2 9.7 10.3 10.9 11.5 90 7 '8 10 12 15 17 2 2.3 2.6 2.9 3.2 3.6 4.0 4.4 4.8 5.2 5.6 6.0 6.4 6.9 7.4 7.9 8.4 8.9 9.4 9.9 10.4 100 6 '7 '9 l'l 1 3 1 5 1 7 2 2.3 2.6 2.9 3.2 3.6 4.0 4.4 4.8 5.2 5.6 6.0 6.4 6.8 7.2 7.6 8.0 8.4 8.9 9.5 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 37 around which the warp has to bend; also that the contraction of filling yarn depends most largely on the number of warp ends around which the filling has to bend. As an illustration of the method of using this table let us take a 39-in., 68x72, 30s.40s, 4.75-yard print cloth. Suppose the average yarn count is 34s. The 34s is found on the left hand side of the table and by following the horizontal line until we reach the vertical column headed 72 threads we find that the warp contraction or take-up in weaving will be 8 per cent. The 72 threads in this case represent the picks with which the warp interlaces. The filling interlaces with 68 warp ends and by finding the intersection of the 34s average yarn count and the vertical column marked 68, which in this case represents 'warp ends, we find that the filling contraction or take- up in weaving is 7.2 per cent. Knowing the contractions the results desired are easily obtained. For a 60 yard cut we would need 60 divided by 1 minus 8%, which is 60 di- vided by .92, or 65% yards from the slasher. The reed required would be 68 (sley) multiplied by 1 minus 7.2%, which is 68 X~ .928, or 63.1 ends per inch in the reed; this divided by 2 ends per dent would give 31.5 dents per inch reed required. AVERAGE YARN COUNT The ascertainment of the average yarn count in a cloth is a matter of prime importance as this factor is necessary as a basis in making or prov- ing various other calculations dealing with cloth. To obtain the average yarn count accurately it is necessary to take into consideration the contrac- tion or take-up of warp and of filling and also the percentage of sizing added to the warp. The average yarn count is rarely the same as the arithmetical average of the warp and filling counts; it is usually coarser by reason of there being a larger proportion of the coarser than of the finer counts involved. For instance if a cloth is made with 60s warp and 100s filling the arith- metical average would be 60 plus 100, divided by 2, which would give 80s. Taking into considera- tion contraction and sizing and the larger per- centage of warp than of filling the average yarn count is more likely to be around 74s. The basic formula in cotton cloth calculations is Formula I : AC = BYT where A = Average yarn count. C = Cloth constant. B = Breadth or width of cloth in inches. Y = Yards per pound. T = Total threads per square inch. The above is an exact equation as each side of the equation represents the number of yards that weigh one pound. The English cotton yarn num- bering system is based on the count indicating CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 39 the number of 840-yafd hanks that weigh one pound, so the yarn count times 840 equals yards of yarn per pound. If there were no contraction or sizing then C would equal 840. Under actual conditions, C, a length of yarn, as measured in the cloth, that weighs the same as a hank of the yarn as ; spun, must always be. less than 840 by reason of the contraction and sizing. Under all circumstances the average yarn count A, multi- plied by the cloth constant C, will represent the number of yards of yarn that weigh one pound. T, which is the sum of the number of threads of warp and filling in one square inch, necessarily represents the inches of yarn as measured in one square inch of the cloth ; this multiplied by B, the cloth width, equals the inches of yarn in one inch of cloth of that width or the number of yards of yarn in one linear yard of cloth; this in turn mul- tiplied by 'Y, the linear yards of cloth per pound, equals the yards of yarn in one pound of the cloth. Therefore AC represents yards of yarn to the pound, and BYT represents yards of yarn to the pound, and consequently AC == BYT. To find average yarn count in a cloth when widtn, weight, sley and pick, and cloth constant are known: Rule 17 : Multiply width of cloth in inches by yards per pound and by total threads per square inch; divide product by suitable cloW Constant that allows for contraction and 'sizing. The above may be. expressed, by transposition 40 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS of the basic Formula 1, as BYT Formula 2: A = Example 1: A heavy sheeting is made 36 inches, 48x48, 3 yds. per lb. If the cloth constant is 735, what is the average yarn count? BYT 36 X 3 X 96 Answer : A = = = 14s C 735 average yarn count. Example 2 : A print cloth is made 38% inches, 64x60, 5.35 yds. per lb. If the cloth constant is 756, what is the average yarn count? BYT 38.5 X 5.35 X 124 Answer : A = = = C 756 33.8s average yarn count. Example 3 : An India linon is made 30 inches, 88x80, 11.35 yds. per lb. If the cloth constant is 775, what is the average yarn count? BYT 30 X H.35 X 168 Answer: A = = = C 775 73.8s average yarn count. To find average yarn count in a cloth when warp and filling counts and percentages of warp and filling are known: Rule 18 : Multiply the warp count by the per- centage of sized warp and the filling count by the percentage of filling. Add their products. CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 41 Example : A print cloth is made of 30s warp and 40s filling. The sized warp constitutes 60% and the filling 40% of the weight of the cloth. What is the average yarn count? Answer: 30 x .60 = 18 40 X .40 == 16 34 = average yarn count. To find average yarn count in a cloth when width, weight, sley and pick, and percentages of contraction and sizing are known: Rule 19. Divide total ends in warp by 1 minus percentages for warp contraction and sizing. Mul- tiply cloth width by picks per inch and divide by 1 minus percentage for filling contraction. Add foregoing lengths of warp and filling; multiply by yards per pound and divide by 840. Example : A grey shirting is woven 40 inches, 80x92, 3V2 yds. per lb. Warp contraction 12%, sizing on warp 6%, filling contraction 9%%. What is average yarn count? Answer : Total ends in warp = 40 X 80 = 3200. 3200 + 40 selvage ends == 3240. 3240-=- (1 — 18% contraction and sizing) = 3240 -7- .82 = 3951 equivalent yards of warp. (40 inches X 92 picks) -r- (1 — 9i/ 2 % contrac- tion) = 3680 ~ .905 = 4066 yards of filling. 3951 -f- 4066 = 8017 yards yarn in one linear yard of cloth. (8017 yards yarn X 3.50 yds. per lb.) -=- 840 = 33.4s average yarn count. Note — The yards of warp shown are the equiv- 42 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS alent yards considering sizing as yarn. The actual length of warp yarn would be 3240 divided by 1 minus 12% contraction or 3682 yards. In calcula- tions involving length only 3682 would be used but where the weight in yards per pound enters in it is necessary to add to the actual warp length a length equivalent to the sizing and thus 3951 as used above is correct. To find average yarn count in a cloth when sley, pick, counts of warp and filling, and con- traction and sizing percentages are known: Rule 20 : Divide ends per inch by 1 minus per- centages for warp contraction and sizing. Divide picks per inch by 1 minus percentage for filling contraction. Divide each of above quotients by its own yarn count; add the results and divide into the equivalent inches of yarn in a square inch. Example: A grey shirting is woven with 80 ends per inch of 30s warp, having contraction of 12% and sized 6% ; and with 92 picks of 38s fill- ing, having contraction of 9%%. What is aver- age yarn count? Answer: 80-=- (1 — 18%) = 80 -h .82 = 97.6 inches of warp required to produce an inch of cloth, considering sizing as yarn. 92 -4- (1 — 91/2%) = 92 -f- .905 = 101.7 inches of filling required to produce an inch of cloth. Then : 97.6 -f- 30s = 3.25 (relative weight of warp) 101.7 -=- 38s = 2.68 (relative weight of warp) 199.3 -1- 5.93 = 33.6s average yarn count Note — The above is based on the fact that the CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 43 length divided by the count times 840 is equiva- lent to the weight, and that the length divided by the weight is equivalent to the counts times 840. The sley and pick represent inches of yarn in a square inch, as measured in the cloth, and allow- ing for contraction and size, represent inches of yarn used to produce a square inch, considering sizing as yarn. As they represent the inches of yarn in a square inch or the yards of yarn in a square yard the lengths 97.6 and 101.7 may be considered as hanks and 840, the yards per hank, are therefore omitted from the calculations. The above gives exact results but where contraction and sizing percentages are unknown fairly ap- proximate results can be obtained from the fol- lowing rule which is largely used. To find average yarn count in a cloth when sley, pick, and counts of warp and filling', are known: Rule 21 : Divide sley by warp count, and pick by filling count. Add the results and divide into sum of sley and pick. Example: A grey shirting is woven with 80 ends of 30s warp and 92 picks of 38s filling to the square inch. What is the average yarn count? Answer : 80 -=- 30s = 2.67 92 -f- 38s = 2.42 172 -f- 5.09 = 33.8s average yarn count Note — The average yarn count as obtained by this abbreviated rule is usually not materially 44 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS different from the results obtained by the more accurate Rule 20, but where the contractions in warp and filling are very different, for instance in such goods as Venetians or crepes, there is a larger variation. To find average yarn count in a cloth con- taining' more than one count of warp or filling, when ends and picks of each count of yarn are known: Rule 22 : Divide average sley by average warp count. Divide number of single threads of filling in an inch by average filling count. Add the re- sults and divide into the sum of the average sley and pick. Note — This rule is based on Rule 21. In find- ing the average sley, average pick, and average yarn count, it is necessary to first reduce all ply yarns to equivalent single yarns. Example: A mercerized corded check is woven 36 inches wide, using 2736 ends of 70/1 plain and 432 ends of 10/2 mercerized; and hav- ing 76 picks of 90/1 plain and 8 picks of 24/2 mercerized, to the inch. What is the aver- age yarn count? Answer : 432 ends of 10/2 = 864 ends of 10s. 864 + 2736 = 3600 single threads in warp. 3600 -f- 36 inches = 100 average sley. 864 ~ 10s = 86.40 2736 ~ 70s = 39.09 3600 -^ 125.49 == 28.69 aver, warp count. CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 45 8 picks of 24/2 = 16 single threads of 24s. 16 + 76 = 92 single thread of filling in an inch. 16-=- 24s = .667 76-^- 90s = .844 92 ~ 1.511 = 60.89 average filling count. Then: 100 average sley divided by 28.69 aver- age warp =3.485 92 single threads of filling divided by 60.89 average filling = 1.511 192 total single threads yarn in square inch divided by 4.996 == 38.43s average yarn count. To find average yarn count in a cloth contain- ing more than one count of warp or filling, when ends and picks of each count of yarn are known: Rule 23 : Divide the average number per inch of single threads of each kind of yarn by its yarn count; add the results and divide into total threads per square inch. Note — This is an abbreviation of Rule 22. Example : (Same as in Rule 22.) Answer: This mercerized corded check aver- ages 24 single threads of 10s warp and 76 single threads of 70s warp to the inch ; it has 16 single threads of 24s filling and 76 single threads of 90s filling to the inch. 46 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS Then : 24- -10S: = 2.400 76- -70S: = 1.086 16- -24s: = .667 76- -90S: = .844 192 4.997 = = 38.43s aver, yarn count. THE CLOTH CONSTANT In cloth calculations there is an appreciable saving of time and effort in using a constant that automatically allows for contraction in width from reed to cloth, for contraction in length from slasher to cloth, and for the addition of sizing to the warp. The "cloth constant" is frequently stated as 756 or 764, and apparently no book on textile calculations shows how these constants are obtained or under what conditions they are correct. We propose to show the theory under- lying this matter so that, knowing the particulars in regard to the cloth under consideration and the conditions under which it is woven, any one can figure out the correct cloth constant. At the start, it may be noted that the term "constant" does not mean constant for all condi- tions but constant only for one set of conditions. Cloth constants actually used vary from less than 700 up to over 800, although for ordinary plain cloths they are usually between 735 and 775. The "cloth constant" is based on the hank of 840 yards and represents a length of yarn, as measured in the cloth, that is equivalent in weight to a hank of the average of warp and filling counts before sizing or weaving. In figuring the cloth constant it is usual to con- sider the take-up or contraction in length of yarn during weaving and the addition of sizing as having the same effect, as either results in the yarn in the cloth measuring less to the pound than the same yarn as spun. For instance, using 30s warp, we know that it measures 840 X 30, or 25,200 yards to the pound. If it takes up 10% in weaving it occupies a length in the cloth of 25,200 X .90 or 22,600 yards ; 22,600 divided by 840 equals 27s so that after take-up 30s may be 48 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS considered as 27s. 30 — 10% = 27s. If the 30s was sized 10% it would be very slightly finer than 27s. If the 30s was sized 5% and the take- up in weaving was 5%, the equivalent count in the cloth would also approximate very close to 27s. In any one of these three cases we could, for cloth calculation purposes, disregard contraction and sizing, and figure on 27s instead of 30s or, to put it another way, figure that each hank had contracted 10% and therefore measured 756 yards instead of 840 yards. To obtain a constant that will allow for con- traction and sizing, so that in cloth calculations these may be disregarded and the yarn considered as lying in the cloth in a straight line and unsized, it is necessary to know the percentages of warp and of filling in the cloth, in addition to the con- traction in width, the contraction in length, and the percentage of sizing added to the warp. The constant 764 is primarily based on the assumption that there is 6% contraction from reed to cloth, 6% contraction from slasher length to cloth length, and 6% sizing added to the warp, also that the weight of filling and of sized warp in the cloth are the same. If the filling contracts 6% then a hank of 840 yards will measure in the cloth a distance equal to 840 X .94 or 789.6 yards. If the warp contracts 6% a hank also measures 840 X -94 or 789.6 yards in the cloth, but it is also sized 6% and this, for cloth calculation purposes, may be considered as having the same effect as contraction. 6% + 6% == 12%. 1 — 12% = .88. Then 840 X .88 = 739.6. On the assumption that warp and filling each account for 50% of the weight of the cloth, we then obtain the cloth con- stant as follows : * CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 49 Warp = 840 X .88 X .50 == 369.6 Filling == 840 X .94 X .50 = 394.8 Cloth constant == 764.4, say 764. An idea of the range of cloth constants to be expected can be obtained by assuming the weight of warp and of filling in the cloth to be the same and figuring out the results with some normal variations in contraction and sizing. For instance the following may be taken as representative : Pet. of Pet. Warp Sizing Filling Cloth sized warp, of filling, contraction, on warp, contraction, constant. 50% 50% 4% ■ 4% 4% 790 50% 50% 5% 5% 5% 777 50% 50% 6% 6% 6% 764 50% 50% 7% 6% 7% 756 50% 50% 7% 7% 7% 752 50% 50% 8% 7% 8% 743 50% 50% 9% 7% 9% 735 50% 50% 10% 7% 10% 727 Some mills use the constant 735 for heavy sheetings, 745 for sheetings, 756 for print cloths, and 775 for India linons, and obtain fairly ap- proximate results. The exact constant will vary according to any variation in the percentage of warp or of filling, of contraction in width or in length ,or of the percentage of sizing added to the warp. The percentages of warp and of filling are rare- ly exactly the same so we shall first put the result of the above analysis as a rule and then give a few examples illustrative of the cloth constants that would be obtained for typical standard cloths. 50 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS To find the cloth constant, knowing percent- ages of warp and of filling, contraction and siz- ing of warp, and contraction of filling: Rule 24: Subtract the percentages of warp contraction and sizing from 1, and multiply by 840 and by the percentage of sized warp in the cloth. Subtract the percentage of filling contraction from 1, and multiply by 840 and by the percentage of filling in the cloth. The sum of the two products is the cloth constant to be used to allow for con- traction and sizing. Example 1: No 3 sail duck is 22-in. wide, has 29 ends of 7/4 ply warp and 22 picks of 7/5 ply filling to the square inch. It weighs 16 ounces per yard or 1 yard per pound. Warp is 57% and filling 43% of the cloth weight. No sizing is used on such coarse ply warps so that factor is eliminated. If the warp contraction is 15% and filling contraction 20%, what is the cloth con- stant ? Answer : Warp : 840 X .85 X -57 = 406.98 Filling: 840 X .80 X .43 = 288.96 Cloth constant = 695.94, say 696. Example 2: A heavy sheeting is woven 36 inches, 48 X 48, 14s.l4s, 3 yds. per lb. Warp 53%, filling 47%. Warp contraction 8%%, sizing on warp 7%, filling contraction 8%%. What is the cloth constant? Answer : Warp : 840 X .845 X .53 = 376.19 Filling: 840 X .915 X .47 = 361.24 Cloth constant = 737.43 say 737. CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 51 Example 3 : A sheeting is woven 36 inches, 56 X 60, 21s.24s, 4 yds. per lb. Warp 54%, fill- ing 46%. Warp contraction 8%, sizing on warp 7%, filling contraction 7%. What is the cloth constant ? Answer : Warp : 840 X .85 X .54 = 385.56 Filling: 840 X-93 X .46 = 359.35 Cloth constant = 744.91, say 745. Example 4 : A print cloth is woven 381/2 inches, 64 X 60, 30s.40s, 5.35 yds. per lb. Warp 60%, filling 40%. Warp contraction 6%, sizing on warp 6%, filling contraction 6%%. What is the cloth constant? Answer : Warp : 840 X .88 X .60 = 443.52 Filling: 840 X .935 X .40 = 314.16 Cloth constant = 757.68, say 758. Example 5 : A grey shirting is woven 40 inches, 80 X 72, 50s.60s, 6.80 yds. per lb. Warp 57%, filling 43%. Warp contraction 5.2%, sizing od warp 5%, filling contraction 6.3%. What is the cloth constant? Answer : Warp : 840 X .898 X .57 = 429.96 Filling: 840 X .937 X .43 = 338.44 Cloth constant = 768.40, say 768. Example 6 : An India linon is woven 30 inches, 88 X 80, 60s.l00s, 11.35 yds. per lb. Warp 65%, filling 35%. Warp contraction 4.8%, sizing on 52 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS warp 4%, filling contraction 5.7%. What is the cloth constant? Answer : Warp : 840 X -912 X .65 = 497.95 Filling: 840 X .943 X .35 = 277.24 Cloth constant = 775.19, say 775. To find cloth constant, knowing width, weight, construction, and average yarn count: Rule 25 : Multiply width in inches by yards per pound and by total threads per square inch;, divide product by average yarn count. The above may be expressed, by transposition of the basic formula 1, as BYT Formula 3 : C = Example: A print cloth is woven 39 inches 68 X 72, 30s.40s, 4.75 yds. per lb. Average yarn count is 34.1s. What is the cloth constant? BYT 39 X 4.75 X 140 Answer : C = = = A 34.1 760 cloth constant. CONSTRUCTION CALCULATIONS The number of warp ends and of filling picks per square inch, that is, the sley and the pick, are often referred to as the "construction" of the cloth. Staple plain cloths with a large number of ends per inch are made with fine yarns, and the coarser the yarn the fewer threads used per square inch. The same yarns may be used in different construction, however, according to the openness of the fabric desired. There is a limit, depending on the diameter of the yarn, to the number of ends of any count that can be used but the fabric can be made as open as de- sired and in some instances fine yarns are used in very coarse constructions. In plain cloths for ordinary purposes it is usually found best to have the sley and pick ap- proximate to secure best results. In the United States it is customary to have the sley slightly exceed the pick. In England it would seem that the contrary is the case, that there are usually slightly more picks than ends. If the sley and pick are the same the cloth is said to have a ' 'square" construction. There are certain con- structions for certain goods that are more or less standard in each country. For instance in the United States the typical construction for coarse sheeting is 48 square (48 ends and 48 picks per square inch), but sheetings of different qualities are made from as coarse as 40x40 up to 68x68. The typical print cloth construction is 64 square, though subcount prints may be as open as 48x48 in some cases, while fine prints may run up to 88x88 or even above. Some tobacco cloths are made in constructions as coarse as 8x8 ends per square inch while some imported transparent 54 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS Swiss organdies or fine French lawns, for wom- en's collars, come in constructions as fine as 180x180. The first has 16 and the latter 360 threads per square inch ; these probably mark the limits in staple plain cloths. In passing it may be noted that while canvas and duck have comparatively coarse construc- tions they probably average finer in construction as compared with the size of their yarns than any other type of cloths. In some instances they have as many ends in the warp as the count of the yarn would permit to be contained in an inch if laid side by side without any filling; they are packed together so tight in weaving on a heavy loom that there are practically no interstices be- tween the yarns, and the cloth therefore has a board-like feel. It may also be noted that special fabrics often have more threads per inch than are here noted for plain cloths. For instance, an imported Eng- lish pique vesting, made with filling back and filling stuffing, has been found on examination to have over 800 threads per square inch. Even plain-woven cloths, if for special purposes, may be far from having approximately the same num- ber of ends and picks per inch, for instance a typical "cord fabric" that is one of the several types of cloths that are used in various parts of an automobile tire, has 2% picks per inch to 261/2 ends per inch. This study, however, is confined mainly to staple plain cloths of large consump- tion and peculiar specialties may be disregarded. To find the total threads per square inch, knowing aU other particulars: Rule 26: Multiply average yarn count by CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 55 cloth constant; divide product by width in inches and by yards per pound. The above may be expressed, by transposition of the basic formula 1, as AC Formula 4: T= BY Example: A print cloth is to be made 38^ inches wide, to weigh 5.35 yards per pound, from 30s warp and 40s filling. Average yarn count 33.8 and cloth constant 756. What would be total threads per square inch necessary? Answer : AC 33.8 X 756 T = = =124 threads per BY 38.5 X 5.35 square inch.. Knowing the usual constructions for print cloths we would naturally make this cloth with 64 warp ends and 60 picks per inch. WIDTH CALCULATIONS Woven goods of 12 inches and under are known as narrow fabrics and are made on narrow-fabric or ribbon looms that weave several at a time with the aid of rack-and-pinion controlled shuttles. Cloth is made on an ordinary fly-shuttle loom. Cloth widths run from 13 inches up to wide sheeting widths of 108 inches ; a small amount is made for special purposes in even wider widths. The width is usually stated in inches but for wide sheeting is often expressed in quarters of a yard (9 inches), thus we see quotations on 6/4 (this is 54 inches and known as six-quarter) sheeting up to 12/4 or 108 inch sheeting. Sometimes this system is used for widths less than 50 inches, for instance 4/4 being used in place of 36 inches, or even 3/4 in place of 27 inches. Ordinary staple cloths are mainly between 25 and 45 inches in width, probably the bulk being between 36 and 40 inches. Looms are ordinarily known by the width of the cloth that can be woven on them and in order to allow for contraction the reed space is there- fore usually four or five inches wider than the nominal width named. For instance a 40" loom is one intended for weaving cloth up to the 40 inch width and therefore usually has a reed space of 44 to 45 inches. To find width of cloth to correspond with other particulars stated: Rule 27. Multiply average yarn count by cloth constant; divide product by total threads' per square inch and by yards to the pound. CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 57 The above may be expressed, by transposition of the basic formula 1, as AC Formula 5 : B = TY Example: A sub-count print cloth is to be made with 64 ends of 28s warp and 56 picks of 38s filling. Weight desired is 7.85 yards per pound. Average yarn count is 33.6 and cloth con- stant 756. What would be the necessary width of the cloth? Answer : AC 33.6 X 756 B = = = 27 inches. TY 120 X 7.85 RELATION OF CLOTH WIDTH AND WEIGHT. If the warp and filling yarns, also the sley and pick, are maintained the same then the width times the weight is constant. To find weight corresponding to a new width, yarns and construction being unchanged: Rule 28 : Multiply present width and weight together for a constant. Divide this constant by any desired width and the quotient will be the corresponding weight. Example: A 36-inch, 64x68, 21s.24s, sheeting weighs 3.50 yards. What would be the weight of identical cloth in other usual widths? Answer: 36 X 3.50 = 126. Dividing this constant by various widths we get corresponding 58 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS weight in yards per pound as follows : 30 inch width weighs 4.20 yards per pound. 32 ' 3.94 " 34 ' 3.71 " 36 ' 3.50 " 38 ' 3.32 " 40 ' 3.15 " 42 ' 3.00 " 45 ' 2.80 " 48 ' 2.62 " 54 ' 2.33 " 63 ' 2.00 " 72 ' 1.75 " 81 ' 1.55 ■" 90 ' 1.40 " 99 ' 08 ' 1.27 " 1.17 " WEIGHT CALCULATIONS In the United States the weight of cloth is usually stated in terms of the linear yards that weigh one pound. Heavy goods such as duck and tire fabrics are more conveniently stated in terms of ounces per yard, in order to avoid fractions. The English use an entirely different system from either of these, as they usually state the weight in terms of pounds per piece of so many yards. For certain purposes cloth is stated in terms of square yards to the pound; this system has also been used in tariff laws. Let Y = yards (linear) per pound. Z = ounces per linear yard. S = square yards per pound. L = lbs. per piece. To find weight in linear yards per pound, knowing ounces per linear yard: Rule 29: Divide 16 (ounces to pound) by ounces per linear yard. Example: A tent duck weighs 10 ounces per linear yard. What is the weight in yards per pound? 16 16 Answer : Y = — = — =1.6 yards per lb. Z 10 Note — In the same way yards per pound can be changed to ounces per yard by dividing 16 by the yards per pound. To find weight in square yards per pound, knowing linear yards per pound: 60 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS Rule 30: Multiply width in inches by yards per pound and divide by 36. Example 1 : A 38%-inch print cloth measures 5.35 linear yards per pound. How many square yards to the pound? Answer : BY 38.5 X 5.35 S = = = 5.72 square yds. 36 36 per pound. Example 2: A 27 inch print cloth measures 7.85 linear yards per pound. How many square yards to the pound? Answer : BY 27 X 7.85 S = = = 5.89 square yards 36 36 per pound. Note — In the same way, square yards to the pound times 36, divided by the width, gives yards per pound. To find weight in pounds per cut, knowing yards per pound: Rule 31 : Divide length of cut in yards by the yards per pound. Example : What is weight of a 40 yard cut of 2.85-yard drill? Answer : 40 40 L = = = 14 pounds per cut. Y 2.85 To find weight in yards per pound, knowing weight in pounds per piece: CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 61 Rule 32 : Divide yards per piece by weight of piece in pounds. Example : The standard English grey shirting is known as the "81,4-lb. shirting" and measures 38 yards to the piece. What is the weight in yards per pound? Answer : 38 38 Y = = = 4.12 yards per pound. L 814 To find weight of cloth in yards per pound, knowing all other particulars: Rule 33 : Multiply the average yarn count by cloth constant; divide the product by the width in inches and by the total threads per square inch. The above may be expressed, by transposition of the basic formula 1, as AC Formula 6 : Y = BT Example : A print cloth is made 38% inches,, 64x64, 30s.38s. Average yarn count 33.6, and cloth constant 756. What is weight in yards per pound? Answer : AC 33.6 X 756 Y = = = 5.15 yds. per lb. BT 38.5 X 128 To find weight of cloth in yards per pound, knowing all other particulars: Rule 34: Divide the sley by the warp count; 62 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS divide the pick by the filling count; add their quo- tients and multiply by the width. Divide the cloth constant by the result. The above may be expressed as follows : E P Y = C-f-B ( -+-) \ W F / Example: A print cloth is made 38V2 inches, 64x64, 30s.38s. Cloth constant 756. What is weight in yards per pound? Answer : (64 64 \ 1 I = 30 38 / 756 5.15 yards per pound. 38.5 X 3.817 PERCENTAGES OF WARP, FILLING, AND SIZING To find weight of filling yarn in a piece of cloth, knowing* all particulars: Rule 35 : Multiply width in reed by picks per inch and by yards cloth in piece; divide product by the filling count and by 840. Example: A print cloth is woven 39 inches, 72x76, 30s.38s, 4.25 yds. per lb. What is weight of filling in a 60-yard cut? Answer: Assuming a cloth constant of 756 then from Rule 17 the average yarn count would be 32%s. The filling contraction is found from the table given, for the contraction on plain cloth by looking under the column headed 72 (in this case ends warp crossed by the filling) and taking a figure that is one-fourth of the difference be- tween those shown for 32s and 34s average yarn counts; for 32%s average yarn count the filling contraction is therefore 8.3%. The cloth width, 39 inches, divided by 1 minus 8.3%, which is .917, gives width in reed as 42% inches. Then the weight filling in cut = 42.5 X 76 X 60 = 6.07 lbs. 38 X 840 To find weight of warp (unsized) in a piece of cloth, knowing all particulars: Rule 36 : Divide total ends in warp by 1 minus warp contraction to get yards warp yarn in one 64 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS yard of cloth; multiply this by yards in piece and divide by the warp count and by 840. Example: (As above). What is the weight of warp (unsized) in a 60-yard cut? Answer : Total ends in warp = 39 X 72 = 2808 plus 48 selvage ends = 2856. From the warp contraction table we find under the column headed 76 (in this case picks crossed by the waro) that the warp contraction corresponding to 32 tos average yarn count would be 9.1%. 1 minus 9.1 == .909. Then weight unsized warp in cut = 2856 60 3142 X 60 X = = 7.48 lbs. .909 30 X 840 30 X 840 To find weight of sizing in a piece of cloth, knowing all particulars: Rule 37 : Add weight of filling, ascertained by Rule 35, to weight of unsized warp, ascertained by Rule 36, and subtract from total weight of cloth. Example: (As above). What is the weight of the sizing in a 60-yard cut ? Answer: A 60-yard cut of 4.25 yard cloth weighs 60 -h 4.25 == 14.12 lbs. Weight of filling plus unsized warp = 6.07 + 7.48 = 13.55 lbs. Weight of sizing in cut therefore 14.12 = 13.55 = 0.57 lb. To find percentages of filling, warp (unsized), and sizing in a piece of cloth, having their re- spective weights: CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 65 Rule 38 : Divide weights of filling, of unsized warp, and of sizing by weight of the piece to get their respective percentages. Example: (As above.) What are percent- ages of warp, of filling, and of sizing? Answer: As the cut weighs 14.12 lbs. and the filling 6.07 lbs., the filling constitutes 6.07 divided by 14.12 or 43% of the total weight. Similarly we find the unsized warp to constitute 7.48 divided by 14.12 or 53%, while the sizing. constitutes 0.57 divided by 14.12 or 4% of the total weight of the cloth. To find percentage of sizing on warp, know- ing percentage sizing in cloth: Rule 39 : Divide percentage of sizing in cloth by percentage of warp yarn in cloth. Example: A cloth as woven is composed of 43% filling, 53% unsized warp, and 4% sizing. What is percentage of sizing on warp? Answer: If the sizing constitutes 4% of the total weight of the cloth and the warp yarn con- stitutes 53%, then there are 4 pounds of sizing to every 53 pounds of warp yarn. 4 divided by 53 gives 7V2% of sizing on warp. Allowing for amount shaken and chafed off in weaving there must have been at least 8% sizing added to the weight of the warp yarn at the slasher. To find approximate percentage of filling and of sized warp, knowing width, sley, pick, and yarn counts: Rule 40: Divide total number of ends in the Q6 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS warp by the warp count to obtain relative weight of ivarp. Multiply picks per inch by width and di- vide by filling count to obtain relative weight of filling. Divide iveight of warp by sum of weights of tvarp and filling to obtain percentage of sized warp. Divide weight of filling by sum of weights of warp and filling to obtain percentage of filling. Example: A 4-yard sheeting is woven 36 inches, 52x48, 17s.21s. What are the percentages of warp (sized) and filling in the cloth? Answer : Total ends in warp = 36 X 52 = 1872 plus 48 selvage ends = 1920. 1920 -=- 17 = 112.9 relative weight of warp. 48 X 36 = 82.3 relative weight of filling. 21 112.9 + 82.3 = 195.2 weight of warp and fill- ing. Then 112.9 -*- 195.2 = 57.8% warp (sized) . 82.3 -v- 195.2 = 42.2% filling. To find approximate percentage of filling and of sized warp, knowing sley, pick, and yarn counts: Rule 41 : Divide sley by tvarp count, and pick by filling count to obtain relative weights of warp and filling. Divide each by their sum to obtain percentages of warp and filling. Example: What are approximate percentages of warp and Ailing in a cloth made with 52 ends of 17s and 48 picks of 21s to the square inch? Answers 52 -=- 17 = 3.06 relative weight of sized warp. 48 -f- 21 = 2.28 relative weight of filling. CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 67 3.06 + 2.28 == 5.34 weight of warp and filling. Then 3.06-^-5.34 = 57.3% sized warp. 2.28 -r- 5.34 = 42.7% filling. To find approximate percentage of sized warp, knowing 1 sley, pick, warp count, and aver- age yarn count: Rule 42 : Multiply sley by average yarn count; divide product by warp count and by total threads per square inch. Expressed as a formula this is EA -i-WT. Example: A pa jama check is made with 72x80 ends per square inch; the warp count is 30s and the average yarn count 34.9s. What is percentage of sized warp in the cloth? Answer : Percentage of sized warp = EA 72 X 34.9 = = 55%. WT 30 X 152 Note — The percentage of filling, from above, would therefore be 100 — 55 = 45%. If, how- ever, the problem had been to find the percentage of filling, knowing sley, pick, average yarn count, and filling, the latter being given as 41s, then we would have proceeded as follows: PA 80 X 34.9 Percentage filling = = = 45%. FT 41 X 152 SELE TION OF YARN COUNTS TO MAKE A CERTAIN CLOTH To find suitable yarn counts when widfth, weight and construction of cloth are gievn: Rule 43 : (a) Ascertain average yarn count by Rule 17, assuming an approximate cloth constant from knoivledge of similar goods, (b) Decide on a warp count, not too far removed from the av- erage yarn count, that fits best into the mill or- ganization. Also decide on percentage of size pre- ferred on warp, (c) Ascertain weight of sized ivarp in a convenient length of cloth, say 100 yards, (d) Find weight of filling, for same length of cloth, by subtracting iveight of sized ivarp from weight of cloth, (e) The filling count is then found by multiplying width in reed by picks per inch and by length of cloth, and dividing by 840 and by iveight of filling. Example: A mill receives an order for 36 inch, 56x60, 4-yard sheeting. The problem to be solved is as to the warp and filling yarns to be used. Answer: (a) From experience with similar sheetings we may take 745 as approximately cor- rect for the cloth constant, Then the average yarn count = BYT 36 X 4 X 116 A == = = 22.4s. C 745 (b) In most instances the warp count is coarser than the filling and therefore coarser than the average yarn count. In this instance we may de- cide on 21s warp as best fitting into the existing CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 69 organization and for the same reason decide on 6% sizing to be put on the warp. (c) Before finding weight of sized warp it is necessary to find the length of warp from the slasher required to make a certain length of cloth. Turning to the table given for contraction on plain cloths and looking under the column headed 60 (in this case picks crossed by the warp) it is seen that average yarn counts of 22s and 24s show contractions of 8.5% and 7.8% respectively and by interpolation the warp contraction correspond- ing to 22.4s average yarn count would be 8.36%. 1 — 8.36% c = .9164. 100 divided by 91.64 gives 109,12 as yards from slasher required to produce 100 yards of cloth. The total ends in warp equal 36 inches times 56 sley, or 2106, plus 40 selvage ends, or 2056 ends total. Then weight of sized warp in 100 yards cloth = 2056 ends X 109.12 yds. warp X 1.06 for sizing -r- 21s warp yarn X 840 yds. in hank == 13.48 pounds. (d) Weight of 100 yards of 4-yard cloth == 100 divided by 4 ="25 lbs. 25 — 13.48 = 11.52 lbs. filling. (e) From the table given for contraction on plain cloths and under the column headed 56 (in this case ends warp crossed by the filling) we find by interpolation that 22.4s average yarn count would give 7.38 % filling contraction. 1 — 7.38 = .9262. .9262 X 56 sley, divided by 2 ends to the dent, gives a reed of 25.93 dents to the inch. As reeds are rarely graded closer than half a dent it is necessary to use a 26 dent reed. Using a 26 dent reed the corrected filling contraction will be 56 minus 52, divided by 56, or 7.14%. 1 — 7.14% = .9286. The cloth width, 36 inches, divided by 70 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS .9286, gives width in reed as 38.77 inches. Then filling yarn required = 38.77 width in reed X 60 picks X 100 yds. cloth H- 840 yards in hank X 11.52 lbs. filling = 24s. Note — The fact that 21s warp and 24s filling have been proved above to be suitable yarns to use in making this cloth does not mean that they constitute the only yarn combination that can be employed. In fact scarcely any two mills use ex- actly the same counts and reports from seven Southern mills that regularly employ all or part of their looms in making what is sold as 36 inch, 56x60, 4-yard grey sheeting show the following yarn combinations : (1) 20s.24s, (2) 20i/ 2 s.23i/ 2 s, (3) 21s.23s, (4) 21s.24s, (5) 22s.20i/ 2 s, (6) 22s.22s, (7) 22s.25s. Doubtless other mills em- ploy still other yarns. There are various reasons for the use of dif- ferent yarns in making the same fabric. In many instances it is a case of convenience for it is to the interest of the mill to spin as few yarns as possible and if a mill is using 22s- warp in making other cloths it may prove more economical to use 22s instead of 21s warp for this cloth also and in such case the filling would have to correspond to obtain the weight desired. The same is true as to the sizing and some mills size much heavier than others. Varying the percentage of sizing changes the center of gravity, that is, the average yarn count, and permits of a different yarn combina- tion. On automatic looms the yards of filling that can be put on a quill is not so important but in the case of non-automatic looms the finer the filling that can be used to obtain the desired result the better, as a longer length of filling on the quill means better production because of fewer CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 71 changes of filling, and this fact is frequently a matter for consideration. On the other hand, having the warp slightly finer than the filling means that after sizing the two yarns will be more nearly uniform in diameter and this has its effect on the appearance of the cloth. The fact also has to be considered that the cloth is not always made exactly to the nominal speci- fications. Even where this is attempted the fact that it is impossible to spin exactly to count, im- possible to put exactly the same percentage of size on every cut, and impossible to use exactly the same tension on every loom so as to have the width invariable, is recognized in the trade to per- mit of a certain latitude. Advantage is taken of this leeway by some mills and the width, weight, or even the construction may regularly be run on the scant side of the nominal specifications. The extent to which this is allowable, however, de- pends largely on the nature of the trade to which the mill caters and some mills find it preferable to gain a reputation for their cloth by making it so that it will always average fully up to specifi- cations or even slightly over in width. It is seen that in the selection of counts to make this cloth there are various factors, outside of the simple calculations, to be considered and not only in this but in the case of other cloths, no matter how standard, there will be found differences from mill to mill. As an illustration take the case of the standard 38% inch, 64x60, 5.35-yard print cloth which is most typical of the American in- dustry today. A large number of mills use 30s warp and 40s filling but among other combina- tions in actual use are to be found the following : (2) 28s.38s, (3) 28s.40s, (4) 28s.42s, (5) 28s.44s, 72 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS (6) 28i/ 2 s.403/ 2 s, (7) 29s.38s, (8) 29s.42s, (9) 29i/ 2 s.39s, (10) 30s.38s, (11) 30s.41s, (12) 30s.42s. As a further illustration consider the leader in the tobacco cloth constructions, which is variously known as tobacco cloth, shade cloth, gauze cloth, cotton bandage cloth, and bunting, the 38i/ 2 inch, 44x40, 8.20-yard goods that are made in large quantities in many mills. For cloth made to nominally the same specifications we find mills employing, among others, the following yarn combinations: (1) 28s.42s, (2) 29s.44s, (3) 29s.39s, (4) 29s.40s, (5) 29s.42i/ ? s, (6) 29i/ 2 s.41s, (7) 30s.40s, (8) 30s.41s, (9) 30s.43s, (10) 30s.44s. Assuming that the average mill attempts to make cloth as near as possible to the specifica- tions stated on its order and invoice it would seem, from a study of the yarn variations used in mak-ng the above and many other cloths, that, even allowing for the matter of convenience in fit- ting the manufacture of a particular cloth into the work of a mill making other cloths, many mills do not give the subject of yarn selection as much attention as it deserves. Certain it is that the correct selection of yarn counts is a matter that in itself often gives one mill an advantage over others, though this may be manifested in the ob- tainment of a better price for a better quality or in more economical cost of production. Incidentally it may be noted that the spread in the range between the warp and the filling counts usually increases with the fineness of the yarns. In ordinary staple sheetings the warp may be the same or a few numbers coarser than the filling, in ordinary print cloths the warp is usually 4 to 16 counts coarser than the filling, whereas in staple CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 73 fine plains the warp may be 15 to 50 or more counts coarser than the filling. (For instance heavy sheetings are largely 12s to 14s warp and 13s to 17s filling, print cloths are largely 28s to 30s warp and 38s to 44s filling, whereas India linons are largely 60s warp and 80s to 130s fill- ing.) In some classes of goods the filling is regu- larly coarser than the warp but this obtains more largely in goods that are more or less specialties such as blankets, flannelets, Canton flannel, repp, and tapestries. GREY CLOTH ANALYSIS Mills engaged in export trade are often asked to weave cloth "to sample," and this occurs not infre- quently in the domestic trade. The sample may be of any size but in many instances the mill is fur- nished only a small clipping and has to ascertain all particulars therefrom. In analyzing a sample for cloth duplication we may proceed in the following order : (1) Descrip- tion and weave, (2) width, (3) construction, (4) weight, (5) yarn counts and sizing, (6) reed and slashing length. In order to show the method of analysis with the greatest clearness we will here confine our- selves to the analysis of plain grey cloth, though the basic system is the same for fancy cloths. We will first discuss the analysis of a small clipping and then of a large sample. Analysis of a Small Clipping (1) Description and Weave. The class of cloth and the weave are found by inspection. In this instance we will suppose that the sample is that of a plain grey print cloth. 74 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS (2) Width. In the case of a small sample for cloth duplication the customer specifies the width desired, and also usually the length of cut. In this case we will say that the cloth is desired in 38%-inch width and in 60-yard cuts. (3) Construction. The ends and picks per square inch are ascertained with a pick counter. If the clipping is without selvage ends close in- spection is sometimes necessary to decide which is warp and which filling. In most instances, sup- posing the cloth is not back starched, the warp is easily identified by the fact that it carries sizing whereas the filling does not; the warp is also usually harder twisted than the filling. (4) Weight. The sample is cut to rectangular shape along warp and filling threads and weighed, using a balance that will weigh to the fraction of a grain. The larger the sample that can be cut the more accurate the determination of the weight of the cloth. To find, from a small sample, the weight of the cloth in yards per pound: Rule 44 : Multiply square inches in sample by 7,000 {grains per pound) ; divide product by 36, by width of cloth in inches, and by weight of sam- ple in grains. This rule can be shortened as follows : Multiply square inches in sample by 194.4; di- vide product by width of cloth in inches and by tveight of sample in grains. Example : A sample cut 4 by 4 inches, having an area of 16 square inches, weighs 15.1 grains. CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 75 Supposing the cloth is desired in 38%-inch width, what would it weigh in yards per pound? 16 X 194.4 Answer: = 5.35 yds. per lb. 15.1 X 38.5 Note — For cloth widths that will divide into 194.4 without remainder the above rule can be shortened. For instance Rule 44 may be used as follows: Divide square inches in sample by weight of sample in grains. Multiply quotient by 5.4 for 36-inch cloth, or 4.86 for 40-inch cloth, to get weight in yards per pound. To find, from a small sample, the weight of the cloth in ounces per linear yard: Rule 45 : Multiply weight of sample in grains by 36 and by width of cloth; divide product by square inches in sample and by 437.5 (grains per ounce) . Example: A sample containing 16 square inches weighs 15.1 grains. What is weight in ounces of a linear yard 38% inches wide? 15.1 X 36 X 38.5 Answer : = 2.99 ounces per 16 X 437.5 linear yard. To find, from a small sample, the weight of the cloth in ounces per square yard: Rule 46 : Multiply weight of sample in grains by 1296 (square inches in a square yard) ; divide product by square inches in sample and by 437.5 (grains per ounce) . Example: A sample containing 16 square 76 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS inches weighs 15.1 grains. What is weight of a square yard in ounces? 15.1 X 1296 Answer: = 2.80 oz. per sq. yd. 16 X 437.5 (5) Yarn Counts and Sizing. The yarn count is the number of 840-yard hanks that weigh one pound (7,000 grains). Therefore the number of yards that weigh 8 1/3 grains equals the count; and the number of lengths of 4.32 inches each that weigh one grain equals the count. The count is also found by dividing any number of yards by their weight in grains and by .12. Comparing yarns with others of known size to determine the count is a very crude method that has no value except for rough approxima- tions. The correct yarn count can be found only by measuring and weighing. A ready method of ascertaining the yarn counts is afforded by a Universal Yarn Assorting Bal- ance and the template, about 2% inches square, that goes therewith. The sample is cut to tem- plate size and the scale is so adjusted that the number of threads from the cut sample that it takes to balance the arm indicates direct the count of the yarn being weighed. Another ready method is based on the fact that the count is equal to the number of lengths of 4.32 inches each that weigh one grain. If 64 lengths of 4.32 inches each weigh one grain the count is 64s; if 64 lengths of 4.32 inches weigh 2 grains the count is 32s, etc. The method of procedure can be stated as a rule. To find from a small sample, the yam counts in condition in cloth: CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 77 Rule 47 : Cut sample 4.32 inches by 4.32 inches. Unravel one inch width of the warp yarns, smooth to remove the waviness caused by weaving and again cut to 4.32 inch length ; do the same with the filling yarns. The warp count (sized) is equal to the ends per inch divided by the weight in grains of this number of warp threads each 4.32 inches long. The filling count is equal to the picks per inch divided by the weight in grains of this number of filling threads each 4.32 inches long. Example: A sample shows 64 ends and 60 picks per square inch. 64 ends, each 4.32 inches long, weighs 2.45 grains. 60 picks, each 4.32 inches long, weighs 1.45 grains. What are the yarn counts? Answer: The warp count (sized) = 64 divid- ed by 2.45 = 26.1s. The filling count = 60 di- vided by 1.45 = 41.4s. Note — To obtain the spun count of the warp the 64 ends, each 4.32 inches long, can be stripped of size by boiling and reweighed. Suppose they weigh, with allowance for natural moisture, 2.3 grains. Then the spun count would be 64 divided by 2.3 or 27.8s. Allowing for the margin of error in obtaining grain weights of such short lengths we can consider that the warp was originally 28s and the filling, say, 42s. If the sized weight of the warp is 2.45 grains and the unsized weight 2.3 grains, the percentage of sizing on warp is 2.45 minus 2.30, divided by 2.30, or around 6%%. Stripping. The size is removed by boiling the yarn in a weak solution of soda, or steeping in a weak solution of acid, followed by rinsing in clean 78 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS water and drying. In drying the yarn is put in a glass jar or bottle which is placed in an oven. It is preferable to use a small drying oven to which is attached a thermometer and to bring the tem- perature up to 212 degrees. On removing the bot- tle, sufficient time should be allowed for cooling, and the yarn then extracted with pincers (to avoid moisture from the hands), and weighed. This gives the bone dry weight, to which is added 7.834% to bring the yarn up to its natural condi- tion with 8!/2% moisture contents. (6) Reed and Slashing Length. Having ob- tained the width, weight, and yarn counts, the average yarn count can be ascertained from Rules 17 or 21. The contraction in warp and in filling during weaving can then be found direct from the table given for contraction percentages in weav- ing plain cloths. Having the contractions the width in reed, and the reed required, also the slashing length, can be obtained by simple calcula- tion according to the rules previously given under those heads. Analysis of a Large Sample (1) Description and Weave. We will assume that, as before, inspection shows sample to be of plain grey print cloth. (2) Width.. In measuring the width care should be taken to get the full width intended without undue stretching. Width is found to be 38!/2 inches. (3) Construction. The ends and picks per square inch are ascertained, as before, with a pick counter. The total ends in warp should be counted for exact accuracy or else the selvage ends CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 79 counted and added to the product of the sley times the width inside of selvage. We will suppose, as before, that the construction is 64x60. The total ends in warp are found to be 2500. (4) Weight. One full yard, or more if avail- able, should be accurately weighed, and the weight in yards per pound found by dividing 7,000 by the weight of one linear yard in grains. If one yard weighs 1,308 grains then the cloth weighs 5.35 yards to the pound. (5) Yarn Counts and Sizing. Unravel one inch, 60 picks, of filling and weigh; suppose this comes to 13.85 grains. If there are 60 picks per inch there are 60 X 36 or 2160 picks per yard and therefore the weight of the filling in a linear yard = 13.85 X 2160 divided by 60 == 498 grains. As the weight of the cloth equals 1308 grains, the weight of the sized warp in a linear yard equals 1308 minus 498, or 810 grains. To obtain the length of filling pull out four con- tinuous picks, place two of the loops, made by the shuttle . in reversing, around a pin stuck in the edge of a table and carefully pull the other ends to remove the waviness caused in weaving, taking care to avoid undue elongation of the yarn. Sup- pose the length of pick is found to have been 41.2 inches then the length of filling in a linear yard equals 2160 times 41.2 divided by 36, or 2472 yards. To obtain the length of warp used pull out a couple of ends and carefully stretch to remove the waviness caused by weaving. Suppose the length is found to be 38.3 inches then the total length of warp in a linear yard of the cloth equals 2500 (total ends) times 38.3 divided by 36, or 2660 yards. 80 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS The count of any yarn can be found by dividing the length in yards by the weight in grains times .12. Therefore from above the filling count would be 2472 divided by 498 and by .12, or 41.3s. The warp count (sized) would be 2660 divided by 810 and by .12, or 27.3s. The original spun count of the warp and the percentage of sizing can be ascertained, as in the case of the small clipping, by boiling to remove the size and again weighing. (6) Reed and Slashing Length. The length of the pick, which is the same as the width in reed, has been found under (5) to be 41.2 inches, and the filling contraction is therefore 41.2 minus 38.5 divided by 41.2 or 6.55%. 1 — 6.55% = .945. If there are 64 ends per inch in the cloth the reed required is 64 times .945 divided by 2, or 30.14, say 30, dents per inch. Under (5) above it was found that 38.3 inches, equal to 1.064 yards, of warp yarn was contained in each 36-inch length as measured in the cloth. For 100 yards of cloth there would be required 106.4 yards of warp, and for a 60-yard cut of cloth there would be required 60 X 1.064 or 63.84 yards of warp from the slasher. PRODUCTION PROBLEMS. In almost any weave shed, but particularly in those making a variety of goods, production prob- lems are constantly coming up for solution, and in order to make the best use of the available looms these have to be solved intelligently and in many cases quickly. The main problem of course is as to the output that can be expected of a loom on a certain cloth, this being essential in fixing the rate per cut as well as in knowing how many looms CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 81 to allocate to a certain order in order to finish it on time. Closely allied to production problems are those relating to the amount of warp and fitt- ing that will be required from week to week to keep loom production up to standard. Cloth Production. The yards of cloth produced per loom depend on the picks per inch, the picks per minute, and the time the loom is in actual operation. Theo- retical or 100% production is, of course, never attained in practice for there is more or less loss of time in piecing up broken ends and, in the case of non-automatic looms, in changing shuttles ; the loom also stands while the loom fixer is making adjustments or repairs, and while warps are being renewed. The amount of time lost depends on many factors such as the nature of the goods, the speed of the looms, the quality of the material, the skill of the weaver, the efficiency of the loom fixer, and the character of the management, so that there is a wide variation from mill to mill or even between two weavers in the same alley. The following percentages of full time produc- tion may be taken as indicative of good practice : 85 to 95% production on automatic plain looms. 80 to 90% production on plain looms. 80 to 90% production on automatic looms with dobbies. 75 to 85% production on drop-box looms. 70 to 80% production on drop-box dobbies. 60 to 70% production on Jacquards. There are some mills that attain a better pro- duction than the normal maximums stated but there are a large number that for various reasons fall under the normal minimums given. 82 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS To find 100% production (no allowance for stops), in 60 hours: Rule 48: Multiply picks per minute by 100 and divide by picks per inch. Example: A loom on 36 inch, 48x48, 3-yard sheeting is run at 180 picks per minute. What is theoretical or 100% production in 60 hours? 180 X 100 Answer : = 375 yards. 48 Note — This is a very convenient rule to remem- ber as a basis, even though mills no longer work 60 hours. Knowing 100% production in 60 hours, 100% production in any other period of time can be obtained by proportion. Thus 100% produc- tion in 55 hours = 11/12 times 375 = 343.75 yards, and 100% production in 48 hours = .8 X 375 = 300 yards, since 55 hours is eleventh- twelfths and 48 hours is eight-tenths of 60 hours. To find 100% production (no allowance for stops), in any number of hours: Rule 49 : Multiply picks per minute by total minutes weave shed is run; divide product bp picks per inch and by 36. Example : A loom on 48 pick goods is run at 180 picks per minute. What is 100% production in a full-time week of 55 hours? 180 X 60 X 55 Answer: = 343.75 yards. 48 X 36 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 83 To find yards woven per loom per week: Rule 50: Multiply picks per minute by 60 (minutes in hour) , by full-time hours, and by per cent of theoretical production attained; divide product by picks per inch and by 36 (inches in yard) . Example: A loom on 38% inch, 44x40, 8.20- yard tobacco cloth is run at 174 picks per minute. What is 85% production in a full time week of 55 hours ? 174 X 60 X 55 X .85 Answer : = 338.9 yds. 40 X 36 To find cuts of cloth woven per loom per week: Rule 51 : Multiply picks per minute by 60, by fidl-time hours, and by per cent of theoretical production attained; divide product by picks per inch, by 36, and by yards per cut. Example : A loom on 40 pick goods is run at 174 picks per minute. How many cuts of 60 yards each are obtained in a week of 55 hours, assuming 85% loom efficiency? 174 X 60 X 55 X .85 Answer: = 5.65 cuts. 40 X 36 X 60 Note — Since 60 and 36 are constants it is pos- sible to slightly shorten the two preceding rules by substituting division by .6 in place of multiply- ing by 60 and dividing by 36. 84 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS To find yards woven per loom per week, using constants: Rule 52: Multiply picks per minute by the constant desired in the following list and divide by picks per inch. Constant Constant Constant Per Cent of to Use for to Use for to Use for Production. 48 Hours. 55 Hours. 60 Hours. 50 40 45.8 50 55 44 50.4 55 60 48 55 60 65 52 59.6 65 70 56 64.2 70 75 60 68.8 75 80 64 73.3 80 85 68 77.9 85 87% 70 80.2 871/2 90 72 82.5 90 92V 2 74 84.8 921/2 95 76 87.1 95 100 80 91.7 100 Example : A loom on 40 pick goods is run at 174 picks per minute. Assuming production to be 85% of the theoretical, how many yards are woven per week of 55 hours ? 174 X 77.9 Answer: = 338.9 yards. 40 To find yards woven per loom per week, using production table: Rule 53 : Multiply the 100% production shown per loom per hour by hours run and by percentage of theoretical production attained. CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 85 Example: A loom on 80 pick goods is run at 165 picks per minute. Assuming production to be 85% of the theoretical, how many yards are woven per week of 55 hours? Answer: According to the table theoretical 100% production per loom per hour would be 3.44 yards, therefore actual production in 55 hours would be 3.44 X 55 X .85 = 160.8 yards. To find loom eff icency when loom speed, picks per inch, and yards woven in a stated time, are known: Rule 54 : Multiply picks per inch by .6 and by yards woven; divide by picks per minute and by hours run. Note— The .6 is obtained by dividing 36 (inches per yard) by 60 (minutes in hour). Example : A loom running 136 picks per min- ute on 60 inch, 60x56, 2.75-yard wide sheeting gets off 190 yards in a week of 55 hours. What is efficiency of loom ? 56 X .6 X 190 Answer: = 85.3% production 136 X 55 To find pounds of cloth produced per loom per week: Rule 55: Multiply picks per minute by min- utes operated (allowing for stops) ; divide product by picks per inch, by 36, and by yards per pound. Example: A loom on 38% inch, 64x64, 5.15- yard print cloth is changed to 36 inch, 20x16, 21- 86 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS yard gauze cloth for surgical dressings. Assum- ing speed of 170 picks per minute and production of 85% to be the same in both cases, what are the relative pounds of cloth produced? 170 X 60 X 55 x.85 Answer: = 40.19 lbs. of 64 X 36 X 5.15 5.15-yard print cloth l 170 X 60 X 55 X 85 [" — =-39.42 lbs. of 21- \l - 16 X 36 X 21 yd. gauze cloth. Note — The above illustration is reminiscent of war time changes. Many mills that were called on by the Government to change from print cloths to gauze cloths (commonly known as tobacco cloth construction) found that there was practi- cally no change in the yarn counts or in the amounts of yarn required from the spinning room, nor in the pounds of cloth that could be produced if warps were available, but that it was impossible to change over the whole mill to the faster-running gauze cloths because of lack of slasher capacity. While the pounds of warp re- quired might be the same, the fewer ends in the gauze cloth warps meant that two or three times as many yards of warp must be put through the slashers and it was impossible to speed them up to anything like this proportion. To estimate time required to weave a certain length of cloth. Kule 56 : Multiply picks per inch by .6 and by yards of cloth desired; divide product by picks per minute and by per cent production estimated. CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 87 Example: Loom is running at 160 picks per minute on 39 inch, 68x72, 4.75 yard print cloth. Figuring on 90% production, how long would it take to exhaust a loom beam that holds warp enough for 1,200 yards (20 cuts of 60 yards each) of cloth? 72 X .6 X 1,200 Answer : = 360 hours, or 6 160 X .90 weeks (of 55 hours) and 3 days. To estimate looms require to fill an order in a certain time: ** I Rule 57: Multiply yards cloth required by .6 and by picks per inch; divide product by picks per minute, by percentage of theoretical production estimated, and by hours allozved for filling order. Example : A mill accepts an order for 100,000 yards of 39 inch, 68x72, 4.75-yard print cloth to be shipped within 6 weeks. Mill works 55 hours a week and on these goods runs looms at 160 picks per minute, obtaining about 90% production. How many looms should be allocated to this order? 100,000 X .6 X 72 Answer: = 91 looms. 160 X .90 X 330 Weaver's Wages To find weekly wages of a weaver on a par- ticular cloth: Rule 58 : Multiply total cuts produced by rate of payment per cut. Example : A weaver tends 12 plain looms, fit- ted with warp stop motions and running at 160 88 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS picks per minute, on 43 inch, 68x76, 30s.36s, 4- yard twill. He is paid 50 cents per cut of 60 yards and gets off 85% production? How much does he make in a 55-hour week? Answer: By Rule 51 the production per set 12 X 160 X 55 X .85 of 12 looms would be == 76 X .6 X 60 31.75 cuts total per week. Then his weekly wages =31.75 X $0.50 = $15.88 a week. To find rate per cut on a new cloth to give equivalent wages per week: Eule 59 : Ascertain cuts per week obtainable on the new cloth and divide into former wages per week. Example : A weaver on 12 plain looms is mak- ing $15.88 a week. It is proposed to give him 20 automatic looms, running at 160 picks per minute, on 39 inch, 68x72, 30s.40s, 4.75 yard print cloth. If he is assumed to get off 90% production, how much will he have to be paid per cut of 60 yards to give him approximately the same weekly re- turn ? Example: Using Rule 51 the production per 20 looms on the new cloth would be 20 X 160 X 55 X .90 = 61.11 cuts total per week. 72 X .6 X 60 Then $15.88 divided by 61.11 = 26 cents per cut. Note : In changing to a cloth where the work is easier so that a weaver is not entitled to as high returns, or to a cloth where more work or CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 89 greater skill is required so that the weaver is en- titled to a greater remuneration, the same system applies in that the probable cuts per week should be first determined and then divided into the weekly wages that are regarded as fair for the work to be done. To find weekly wages per loom: Rule 60: Divide weekly wages by looms op- erated. Example: On 43 inch, 4-yard twill a weaver on 12 plain looms makes $15.88 and on 39 inch, 4.75-yard print cloth a weaver on 20 automatic looms makes $15.88 a week. What is weekly wage cost per loom? Answer: The weekly wage cost per loom is $15.88 divided by 12 or $1,325 on the plain looms and $15.88 divided by 20 or $0,794 on the auto- matic looms. To find weaver's wages per pound of cloth: Rule 61 : Divide rate per cut by pounds per cut. Example: A weaver on 43 inch, 4-yard twill is paid 50 cents a cut of 60 yards and a weaver on 39 inch, 4.75-yard print cloth is paid 26 cents a cut of 60 yards. How much is paid per pound of cloth : Answer : A 60-yard cut of 4-yard twill weighs 15 pounds and a 60-yard cut of 4.75-yard print cloth weighs 12.63 pounds. On the twill the mill is paying 50 divided by 15 or 3.33 cents a pound, and on the print cloth 26 divided by 12.63 or 2.06 cents a pound, as weaver's wages. 90 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS (1) YARDS OF CLOTH PER LOOM PER HOUR (100% Production) PICKS PER MINUTE Picks 135 per 100 105 110 115 120 125 130 140 145 150 Inch. 20 8.33 8.75 9.17 9.58 10.00 10.42 10.83 11.25 11.67 12.08 12.50 22 7.58 7.95 8.33 8.71 9.09 9.47 9.85 10.23 10.61 10.98 11.36 24 6.94 7.29 7.64 7.99 8.33 8.68 9.03 9.37 9.72 10.07 10.42 26 6.41 6.73 7.05 7.37 7.69 8.01 8.33 8.65 8.97 9,29 9.62 28 5.95 6.25 6.55 6.85 7.14 7.44 7.74 8.04 8.33 8.63 8.93 30 5.56 5.83 6.11 6.39 6.67 6.94 7.22 7.50 7.78 8.06 8.33 32 5.21 5.47 5.73 5.99 6.25 6.51 $.77 7.03 7.29 7.55 7.81 34 . 4.90 5.15 5.39 5.64 5.88 6.13 6.37 6.62 6.86 7.11 7.35 36 4.63 4.86 5.09' 5.32 5.56 5.79 6.02 6.25 6.48 6.71 6.94 38 4.39 4.61 4.82 5.04 5.26 5.48 5.70 5.92 6.14 6.36 6.58 40 4.17 4.37 4.58 4.79f ' 5.00 5.21 5.42 5.63 5.83 6.04 6.25 42 3.97 4.17 4.37 4.56 4.76 4.96 5.16 5.36 5.56 5.75 5.95 44 3.79 3.98 4.17 4.36/ 4.55 4.73 4.92 5.11 5.30 5.49 5.68 46 3.62 3.80 3.99 4.17 4.35 4.53 4.71 4.89 5.07 5.25 5.43 48 3.47 3.65 3.82> 3.99 4.17 4.34 4.51 4.69 4.86 5.03 5.21 50 3.33 3.50 3.67 3.83 4.00 4.17 4.33 4.50 4.67 4.83 5.00 52 3.21 3.37 3.53 3.69 3.85 4.01 4.17 4.33 4.49 4.65 4.81 54 3.09 3.24 3.40 3.55 3.70 3.86 4.01 4.17 4.32 4.48 4.63 56 2.98 3.13 3.27 3.42 3.57 3.72 3.87 4.02 4.17 4.32 4.46 58 2.87 3.02 3.16 3.30 3.45 3.59 3.74 3.88 4.02 4.17 4.31 60 2.78 2.92 3.06 3.19 3.33 3.47 3.61 3.75 3.89 4.03 4.17 62 2.69 2.82 2.96 3.09 3.23 3.36 3.49 3.63 3.76 3.90 4.03 64 2.60 2.73 2.86 2.99 3.13 3.26 3.39 3.52 3.65 3.78 3.91 66 2.53 2,65 2.78 2.90 3.03 3.16 3.28 3.41 3.54 3.66 3.79 68 2.45 2.57 2.70 2.82 2.94 3.06 3.19 3.31 3.43 3.55 3.68 70 2.38 2.50 2.62 2.74 2.86 2.98 3.10 3.21 3.33 3.45 3.57 72 2.31 2.43 2.55 2.66 2.78 2.89 3.01 3.13 3.24 3.36 3.47 74 2.25 2.36 2.48 2.59 2.70 2.82 2.93 3.04 3.15 3.27 3.38 76 2.19 2.30 2.41 2.52 2.63 2.74 2.85 2.96 3.07 3.18 3.29 78 2.14 2.24 2.35 2.46 2.56 2.67 2.78 2.88 2.99 3.10 3.21 80 2.08 2.19 2.29 2.40 2,50 2.60 2171 2.81 2.92 3.02 3.13 82 2.03 2.13 2.24 2.34 2.44 2.54 2.64 2.74 2,85 2.95 3.05 84 1.98 2.08 2.18 2.28 2.38 2.48 2.58 2.68 2.78 2.88 2.98 86 1.94 2.03 2.13 2.2S 2.33 2.42 2.52 2.62 2.71 2.81 2.91 88 1.89 1.99 2.08 2.18 2.27 2.37 2.46 2.56 2.65 2.75 2.84 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 91 (2) YARDS OF CLOTH PER LOOM PER HOUR (100% Production) PICKS PER MINUTE Picks I | 1 1 1 | per Inch. 155 | 160 [ 165 1 1 170 | 175 | 180 | 185 190 195 | 200 205 20 12,92|13.33|13.75|14.17|14.58|15.00|15.42|15.83 16.25116.67 17.08 22 |11.74 l|12.15 ■J12.5C |12.88|13.26|13.64|14.02|14.39|14.77|15.15 15.53 24 |10.7( >|11.11 1 11.46 |11.81|12.15|12.50|12.85|13.19|13.54 13.89 14.24 26 9.94 10.26 10.58 10.90 11.2)2 11.54 11.86 12.18 12.50 12.82 13.14 28 9.23 9.52 9.82 10.12 10.42 10.71 11.01 11.31 11.61 11.90 12.20 30 8,61 8.89 9.17 9.44 9.72 10.00 10.28 10.55 10.83 11.11 11.39 32 8.07 8.33 8.59 8.85 9.11 9.37 9.64 9.90 10.16 10.42 10.68 34 7.60 7.84 8.09 8.33 8.58 8.82 9.07 9.31 9.56 9.80 10.05 36 7.18 7.41 7.64 7.87 8.10 8.33 8.56 8.80 9.03 9.26 9.49 38 6.80 7.02 7.24 7.46 7.68 7.89 8.11 8.33 8.55 8.77 8.99 40 6.46 6.67 6.87 7.08 7.29 7.50 7*71 | 7.92 | 8.13 8.33 8.54 42 6.15 6.35 6.55 6.75 6.94 7.14 7.34 7.54 7.74 7.94 8.13 44 5.87 6.06 6.25 6.44 6.63 6.82 7.01 7.20 7.39 7,58 7.77 46 5.62 5.80 5.98 6.16 6.34 6.52 6.70 6.88 7.07 7.25 7.43 48 5.38 5.56 5.73 5.90 6.08 6.25 6.42 6.60 6.77 6.94 7.12 50 5.17 5.33 5.50 5.67 5.83 6.00 6.17 6.33 6.50 6.67 6.83 52 4.97 5.13 5.29 5.45 5.61 5.77 5.93 6.09 6.25 6.41 6.57 54 4.78 4.94 5.09 5.25 5.40 5.56 5.71 5.86 6.02 6.17 6.33 56 4.61 4.76 4.91 5.06 5.21 5.36 5.51 5.65 5.80 5.95 6.110 58 4.45 4.60 4.74 4.88 5.03 5.17 5.32 5.46 5.60 5.75 5.89 60 4.31 4.44 4,58 4.72 4.86 5.00 5.14 5.28 5.42 5.56 5.69 62 4.17 4.30 4.44 4.57 4.70 4.84 4.97 5.11 5.24 5.38 5.51 64 4.04 4.17 4.30 4.43 4.56 4.69 4.82 4.95 5.08 5.21 5.34 66 3.91 4.04 4.17 4.29 4.42 4.55 4.67 4.80 4.92 5.05 5.18 68 3.80 3.92 4.04 4.17 4.29 4.41 4.53 4.66 4.78 4.90 5.02 70 3.69 3.81 3.93 4.05 4.17 4.29 4.40 4.52 4.64 4.76 4.88 72 | 3.59J 3.7C | 3.82 | 3.94| 4.05 | 4.17 | 4.28 | 4.40 | 4.51 | 4.63 4.75 74 3.49] 3.60 3.72 3.83] 3.94 4.05 4.17 4.28 4.39 4,50 4.62 76 3.40J 3.51 3.62 3.73| 3.84 3.95 4.06 4.17 4.28 4.39 4.50 78 3.31| 3.42 3.53 3.63| 3.74 3.85 3.95 4.06 4.17 4,271 4.38 80 3.23J 3.33 3.44 3.54| 3.65 3.75 3.85 3.96 4.06 4.17| 4.27 82 3.15| 3.25 3.35 3.46| 3.56 3.66 3.76 3.86 3.96 4.07| 4.17 84 3.08| 3.17 3.27 3.37| 3.47 3.57 3.66 3.77 3.87 3.97| 4.07 86 3.00| 3.10 3.20 3.29| 3.39 3.49 3.58 3.68 3.78 3.88| 3.97 88 2.94 3.03 3.13 3.22 3.31 3.41 3.50 3.60 3.69 3.79 3.88 92 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS (3) YARDS OF CLOTH PER LOOM PER HOUR (100% Production) PICKS PER MINUTE Picks per 100 105 110 115 120 125 130 135 I 140 145 150 Inch. [ J 90 1.85 1.94 2.04 2.13 2.22 2.31 2.41 2-50 2.59 2.69 2.78 92I 1.81 1.90 1.99 2.08 2.17 2.26 2.36 2.45 2.54 2.63 2.72 94 1.77 1.86 1.95 2.04 2.13 2.22 2.30 2.39 2.48 2.57 2.66 96 1.74 1.82 1.91 2.00 2.08 2.17 12.26 2.34 2.43 2.52 2.60 98 1.70 1.79 1.87 1.96 2.04 2.13 2.21 2.30 2.38 2.47 2.55 100 1.67 1.75 1.83 1.92 2.00 2.08 2.17 2.25 2.33 2.42 2.50 102 1.63 1.72 1.80 1.88 1.96 2.04 2.12 2.21 2.29 2.37 2.45 104 1.60 1.68 1.76 1.84 1.92 2.00 2.08 2.16 2.24 2.32 2.40 106 1.57 1.65 1.73 1.81 1.89 1.97 2.04 2.12 2.20 2.28 2.36 108 1.54 1.62 1.70 1.77 1.85 1.93 2.01 2.08 2.16 2.24 2.31 110 1.52 1.59 1.67 1.74 1.82 1.89 1.97 2.05 2.12 2.20 2.27 112 1.49 1.56 1.64 «1.71 1.79 1.86 1.93 2.01 2.08 2.16 2.23 114 1.46' 1.54 1.61 1.68 1.75 1.83 1.90 1.97 2.05 2.12 2.19 116 1.44 1.51 1.58 1.65 1.72 1.80 1.87 1.94 2.01 2.08 2.16 118 1.41 1.48 1.55 1.62 1.69 1.77 1.84 1.91 1.98 2.05 2.12 120 1.39 1.46 1.53 1.60 1.67 1.74 1.81 1.87 1.94 2.01 2.08 122 1.37 1.43 1.50 1.57 1.64 1.71 1.78 1.84 1.91 1.98 2.04 124 1.34 1.41 1.48 1.55 1.61 1.68 1.75 1.81 1.88 1.95 2.01 126 1.32 1.39 1.46 1.52 1.59 1.65 1.72 1.79 1.85 1.92 1.98 128 1.30 1.37 1.43 1.50 1.56 1.63 1.69 1.76 1.82 1.89 1.95 130 1.28 1.35 1.41 1.47 1.54 1.60 1.67 1.73 1.79 1.86 1.92 134 1.24 1.31 1.37 1.43 1.49 1.55 1.62 1.68 1.74 1.80 1.87 136 1.23 1.29 1.35 1.41 1.47 1.53 1.59 1.65 1.72 1.78 1.84 140 1.19 1.25 1.31 1.37 1.43 1.49 1.55 1.61 1.67 1.73 1.79 144 1.16| 1.22 1.27 1.33 1.39 1.45 1.50 1.56 1.62 1.68 1.74 146 1.14 1.20 1.26 1.31 1.37 1.43 1.48 1.54 1.60 1.66 1.71 150 1.11 1.17 1.22 1.28 1.33 1.39 1.44 1.50 1.56 1.61 1.67 154| | 1.08| 1.14| 1.19| 1.24| 1.301 1.35 1.41) 1.46 1.52 1.57 1.62 156| | 1.07J 1.12| 1.18 1.23| 1.28| 1.34 1.39| 1.44 1.50 1.55 1.60 160 | 1.04| 1.091 1.151 1.20| 1.25 1.30 1.35 1.41 1.46 1.51 1.56 164 1.02J l.(07| 1.12| 1.17| 1.22 1.27 1.32 1.37 1.42 1.47 1.52 166 | 1.00| 1.05] 1.10| 1.15-1 1.20 1.26 1.31 1.35 1.41! l- 4 6 1.51 170 | .98| 1.03| 1.08| 1.131 1.18 1.23 1.27 1.32 1.37J 1.42 1.47 174. | .96} l.Olj 1.05| 1.10J 1.15 1.20 1.25 1.29 1.34} 1.39 1.44 176 ! .95| .991 1-041 1.09! 1-14 1.18 1.23 1.28 1.331 1-37 1.42 180 | .93 ! .97 ( 1.02 J 1.06 ! i.n 1.16 1.20 1.25 1.30 1.34 1.39 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 93 (4) YARDS OF CLOTH PER LOOM PER HOUR (100% Production) PICKS PER MINUTE Picks | per I 155 1 160 1 165 170 175 180 185 190 195 200 205 Inch. 1 1 90 2.871 2.961 3.06 3.15 3.24 3.33 3.43 3.52 3.61 3.70 3.80 92 2.81 2.90 2.99 3.08 3.17 3.26 3.35 3.44 3.53 3.62 3.71 94 | 2.75| 2.84| 2.93| 3.01 3.10 3.19 3.28 3.37 3.46 3.55 3.63 96 2.69 2.78 ; 2.8G 2.95 3.04 3.13 3.21 3.30 3.39 3.47 3.56 98 2.64 2.72 2.81 2.89 2.98 3.06 3.15 3.23 3.32 3.40 3.49 100 2.58 12.67 2.75 2.83 2.92 3.00 3.08 3.17 3.25 3.33 3.44 102 2.53 2.61 2.70 2,78 2.86 2.94 3.02 3.10 3.19 3.27 3.35 104.. •2.48 2.56 2.64 2.72 2.80 2.88 2.96 3.04 3.13 3,21 3.29 106 2.44 2.52 2.59 2.67 2.75 2.83 2.91 2.99 3.07 3.14 3.22 108 2.39 2.47 2.55 2.62 2.70 2.78 2.85 2.93 3.01 3.09 3.16 110 2.35 2.42 2.50 2.5? 2.65 2.73 2.80 2.88 2.95 3.03 3.11 112 2.31 2.38 2.46 2.53 2.60 2.68 2.75 2.83 2.90 2.98 3.05 114 2.27 2.34 2.41 2.49 2.56 2.63 2.70 2.78 2.85 2.92 3.00 116 2.23 2.30 2.37 2.44 2.51 2.59 2.66 2.73 2.80 2.87 2.95 118 2.19 -2.26 2.33 2.40 2.47 2.54 2.61 2.68 2.75 2.82 2.90 120 2.15 2.22 2.29 2.36 2.43 2.50 2.57 2.64 2.71 2.78 2.85 122 2.12 2.19 2.25 2.32 2.39 2.46 2.53 2.60 2.66 2,73 2.80 124 2.08 2.15 2.22 2.28 2.35 2.42 2.49 2.55 2.62 2.69 2.76 126 2.05 2.12 2.18 2.25 2.31 2.38 2.45 2.51 2.58 2.65 2.71 128 2.02 2.08 2.15 2.21 2.28 2.34 2.41 2.47 2.54 2.60 2.67 130 1.99 2,05 2.12 2.18 2.24 2.31 2.37 2.44 2.50 2.56 2.63 134 1.93 1.99 2.05 2.11 2.18 2.24 2.30 2.36 2.43 2.49 2.55 136 1.90 1.96 2.02 2.08 ;2.14 2.21 2.27 2.33 2.39 2.45 2.51 140 1.85 1.90 1.96 2.02 2,08 2.14 2.20 2.26 2.32 2.38 2.44 . 144 1.79 1.85 1.91 1.97 2.03 2.08 2.14 2.20 2.26 2.31 2.37 146 1.77 1.83 1.88 1.94 2.00 2.05 2.11 2.17 2.23 2.28 2.34 150 1.72 1.78 1.83 1.89 1.94 2.00 2.06 2.11 2.17 2.22 2.28 154 1.68 1.73 1.79 1.84 1.89 1.95 2.00 2.06 2.11 2.16 2.22 156 1.66 1.71 1.76 1.82 1.87 1.92 1.98 2.03 2.08 2.14 2.19 160 1.61 1.67 1.72 1.77 1.82 1.87 1.93 1.98 2.03 2.08 2.14 164 1.58 1.63 1.68 1.73 1.78 1.83 1.88 1.93 1.98 2.03 2.08 166 1,56 1.61 1.66 1.71 1.76 1.81 1.86 1.91 1.96 2.01 2.06 170 1.52 1.57 1.62| 1.67 1.72 1.76 1.81 1.86 1.91 1.96 2.01 174 1.48 1.54 1.58| 1.63 1.68J 1.7)2 1.77 1.82 1.87 1.92 1.96 176 1.47 1.52 1.56) 1.61J 1.66| 1.70 1.75 1.80 1.85 1.89 1.94 180 1.44 1.48 1.53 1.57 1.62 1.67 1.71 1.76 1.81 1.85 1.90 94 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS Warp and Filling Required from Spinning Room The filling usually goes direct from the spindle to the shuttle and the only waste made is that at the loom itself. The warp undergoes several in- termediate processes, such as spooling, warping, slashing, and drawing in, and more or less waste is made at each process in addition to waste at the loom. Some mills condition their filling yarns with the result that not only does the work run better but more pounds of filling are woven than are spun. In a large number of instances the sizing added at the slasher more than compen- sates for all warp waste between the spun yarn and the finished cloth. The weight of the cloth may therefore be more or it may be less than the weight of the yarns as spun for its manufacture. It is rare, however, that the percentages of warp yarn and of filling yarn in the woven cloth are exactly the same as the percentages of warp yarn and of filling yarn required from the spinning frame. In order to avoid an over or under sup- ply of warp or of filling it is often of importance to know how to figure so as to ensure an exact balance between spinning and weaving. To find warp and filling required to be spun So fill a certain cloth order: Rule 62: Ascertain weight of filling in cloth by Rule 35 and divide by 1 minus percentage fill- ing waste to get weight of filling to be spun. As- certain weight of unsized ivarp by Rule 36 and divide by 1 minus percentage ivarp waste to get weight of warp to be spun. Example : A mill receives an order for 425,000 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 95 yards (100,000 pounds) of 39 inch, 72x76, 4.25- yard print cloth. Assuming 3% filling waste to be made at the loom and 5% warp waste to be made between the spun yarn and the woven cloth, how much warp and filling must be spun to fill this order? Answer : As shown in the example given un- der Rules 35 and following, the woven cloth is composed of 53% warp yarn, 4% sizing, and 43% filling, therefore 100,000 pounds of the cloth is composed of 53,000 pounds of warp yarn and 43,- 000 pounds of filling yarn in addition to 4,000 pounds of sizing. The warp required from the spinning frame will be 53,000 divided by 1 minus 5%, or .95, which is 55,790 pounds. The filling required from the spinning frame will be 43,000 divided by 1 minus 3%, or .97, which is 44,330 pounds. There- fore to make 100,000 pounds of cloth, containing 96,000 pounds of actual yarn, there is required 100,120 pounds of yarn from the spinning frames. In percentages we find : Warp (sized) = 57% of cloth weight. Warp (unsized- = 53% of cloth weight. Warp (unsized) = 55.21% of actual yarn in cloth. Warp (unsized) = 55.72% of actual yarn spun. Filling = 43% of cloth weight. Filling = 44.79% of actual yarn in cloth. Filling == 44.28% of actual yarn spun. Length Cloth That Can Be Woven With a Given Amount of Warp or Filling To find length of cloth that can be woven from a warp of known weight and count: 96 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS Rule 63 : Multiply net w&lglfd of warp on loom beam by 1 minus percentage of sizing on warp, by warp count, by 840, by 1 minus warp contrac- tion in weaving, and by 1 minus percentage of loss in tveight of warp at loom; divide product by total ends in warp. Example : A loom beam with 2700 ends of 30s is found to weigh 145 pounds net. It is known to carry 7%% sizing. How many yards of 39 inch, 08x72, 4.75-yard print cloth can be made there- with? Answer: Sizing equals 7i/ 2 %. 1 — 7%% = .925. From the table given for contraction in weaving plain cloths the warp contraction is found to be 8%. 1 — 8% = .92. The loss in weight of warp at loom, including sizing shaken or chafed off as well as warp yarn wasted at the beginning and ending of the weaving, may be estimated in this case at 1%. 1 — 1% = .99. Then the yards of cloth that can be woven from this warp = 145 X .925 X 30 X 840 X .92 X .99 = 1140 yds. 2700 or 19 cuts of 60 yards each. To find length of cloth that can be woven with a given weight and count of filling: Rule 64 : Multiply weight of filling by count and by 840, also by 1 minus percentage of filling waste at loom; divide product by picks per inch and by width warp in reed. Example: A 72-pick cloth that is spaced 42.1 inches wide in the reed is using 40s filling. There CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 97 are 55 pounds of filling on hand. Assuming a fill- ing waste at the loom of 2%, what length of cloth can be woven therewith ? 55 X 40 X 840 X .98 Answer : = 597 yards. 72 X 42.1 Note : This is a useful rule in ascertaining if the filling on hand is sufficient to complete an order calling for a certain number of yards. If it is not, then the additional amount of filling re- quired for the remaining yardage can be ascer- tianed by the use of Rule 35, with due allowance for probable waste at loom. LOOM SPEED CALCULATIONS. Narrow looms are operated faster than wide looms, for instance a loom on 36-inch sheeting will ordinarily be speeded to put in fully twice as many picks per minute as a loom on 108-inch sheeting. This does not necessarily mean that the shuttle itself travels faster, for in fact in the instance cited the shuttle in the narrow loom will not cover as many feet per minute as the shuttle in the wider loom. The narrower the loom the larger the percentage of time lost in retardation of speed, bringing the shuttle to rest, at each end of its traverse. A normal shuttle speed is around 10 miles an hour, varying according to circum- stances between 9 and 13 miles an hour. The width, however, is only one of several fac- tors that have to be considered in deciding upon the number of picks per minute most advisable and, even on the same cloth, looms of the same width will be found operated at different speeds in different mills. In general the slower the speed, within reasonable limits, the higher the percent- age of the theoretical production obtainable and good judgment is required in deciding as to the picks per minute preferable. For instance, a mill may be weaving print cloth at 180 picks per min- ute and getting off 80 per cent production but find that by reducing the speed to 160 picks per minute it can get off 90 per cent production; the output per loom would be the same in either case but the change would probably be advisable be- cause the slower speed would make easier work for the weaver and tend to fewer seconds. English mills operate their looms faster than customary in this country. In most instances CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 99 this is due not so much to superior skill of the weaver as it is to the fewer looms given each weaver. As a rule the English weaver is re- quired to do much extra work, such as bringing his own filling from the storeroom, unrolling and trimming and repairing cuts, carrying the per- fected cloth to the warehouse, oiling, sweeping, etc., that in American mills is usually done by a cheaper class of operatives. This difference in methods, backed by the loom limitations laid down by the labor unions, accounts largely for the fact that the English weaver rarely operates over four looms (if he runs as many as six he always has a young "half-timer" assistant) on cloth that in the United States a weaver would tend 8 plain looms, or 12 if fitted with stop motions. The au- tomatic looms, where the filling is automatically replenished, is used to a large extent in this coun- try only; it is due to this that, in spite of higher wages made by the weaver, American weaving costs per yard are often less than those abroad. Japanese looms are also operated faster than the American but this higher speed, together with the poor grade of material used (Japanese yarns are most largely of the coarse Indian cotton or a mixture thereof), and a lower degree of skill, means that only two or three looms can be given a weaver. In the United States, where wages are high, the main object is to obtain the maximum production from each operative; hence loom speeds are moderate and each weaver is given as many looms as he can handle. In low wage coun- tries, such as Japan, the principal object is to get the maximum output from each machine; hence loom speeds are high and as many operatives are employed as are necessary to get the desired re- sults. 100 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS The class of goods to be made and the type of loom to be used are prominent factors in the adjustment of the loom speed. The more com- plicated the design the slower the speed and dob- bies are therefore run slower than ordinary cam looms, and Jacquards are run slower than dob- bies. For some purposes cloth is required as near perfect as possible and in such cases the loom speed is reduced appreciably below that usual when operating on the same goods for ordinary uses. The following table of loom speeds on medium weight cloth is taken from the catalogs of two prominent loom manufacturers, one making plain and one automatic looms. Name of Loom or Whitin Draper Cloth Width Plain Automatic 28 inch 200 to 210 190 to 195 SO inch 195 to 200 185 to 190 32 inch 185 to 190 180 to 185 34 inch 180 to 185 175 to 180 36 inch 175 to 180 170 to 175 38 inch 170 to 175 165 to 170 40 inch 165 to 170 160 to 165 42 inch 160 to 165 154 to 158 44 inch 154 to 158 148 to 152 46 inch 150 to 154 144 to 148 48 inch 140 to 144 50 inch 142 to 148 52 inch 136 to 140 56 inch 138 to 140 132 to 136 60 inch 132 to 136 128 to 132 72 inch 116 to 120 116 to 120 80 inch 110 to 112 108 to 112 88 inch 104 to 106 100 to 104 92 inch 100 to 102 96 to 100 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 101 100 inch 94 to 96 90 to 94 108 inch 86 to 88 86 to 88 124 inch 75 to 80 150 inch 65 to 70 Although width is only one of several factors that decide speed, the foregoing is useful as an in- dication of the normal relation of speeds on looms of different widths. In stating rules for loom speed calculations most writers disregard the fact that there is such a thing as belt slippage, with the result that there is not actually obtained the speed calculated. The percentage of speed lost by belt slippage varies according to conditions but, with proper care given the belts, will be around 3% for each belt and it is well to allow for this amount. If there are two belts between the main shaft and the loom and each slips 3%, a total of approximately 6% of the speed is thus lost. This means a loss of 8 to 12 picks per minute at the loom and belt slip- page is therefore an appreciable item in most cal- culations dealing with the transmission, of power by belting. To find speed of loom, when speed of shaft- ing, diameter of driving" pulley, and diameter of loom pulley are known: Rule 65 : Multiply speed of shafting by diame- ter of driving pulley, and by 1 minus percentage of belt slip; divide product by diameter of loom pulley. Example :* Shafting runs at 325 r. p. m. (revo- lutions per minute) and uses a 7-inch pulley driv- ing down to a 14-inch pulley on loom. What is speed of loom if 3% is allowed for belt slippage? 102 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 325 X 7 X .97 Answer: = 157% picks per 14 minute. To find speed of shafting, when diameter of driving pulley, diameter of loom pulley, and speed of loom are known: Rule 66 : Multiply speed of loom by diameter of loom pulley; divide product by diameter of driv- ing pulley, and by 1 minus percentage of belt slip. Example: With driving pulley of 7 inches di- ameter and loom pulley of 14 inches diameter, what would be speed of shafting required to give 1571/2 picks per minute if belt slip be taken as 3% ? 157.5 X 14 Answer : = 325 r. p. m. of shaf ing 7 X .97 To find diameter of driving pulley, when speed of shafting, speed of loom, and diameter of loom pulleys are known: Rule 67: Multiply speed of loom by diameter of loom pulley; divide product by speed of shaft- ing, and by 1 minus percentage of belt slip. Example : Shafting runs 325 r. p. m., and loom has 14-inch pulley. If belt slip be taken as 3%, what is diameter of driving pulley required to give 1571/2 picks per minute? 157.5 X 14 Answer : = 7 inches* diameter of 325 X .97 driving pulley. To find dameter of loom pulley, when speed CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 103 of loom, speed of shafting, and diameter of driving pulley are known: Rule 68: Multiply speed of shafting by di- ameter of driving pulley, and by 1 minus percent- age of belt slip; divide product by speed of loom. Example: Shafting runs at 325 r. p. m. and drives loom from a 7-inch pulley on shaft. Allow- ing for 3% belt slip, what is diameter of loom pulley required to give 157% picks per minute? 325 X 7 X .97 Answer : — = 14 inches diame- 157.5 ter of loom pulley. To find diameter of loom pulley required in changing speed of loom, knowing diameter of loom pulley in use: Rule 69 : Multiply present speed of loom by diameter of present loom pulley; divide results by loom speed desired. Example: Loom is being run at 157% picks per minute with 14-inch loom pulley; what loom pulley would be required to speed loom up to 165 picks per minute? 157.5 X 14 Answer : = 13.36 inches diameter 165 loom pulley. Note — Loom pulleys are normally made only in full inch diameters such as 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, or 16 inches and where the above rule does not give an answer very close to the even inch it is necessary to change also some other pulley be- tween the main shaft and the loom. Where a 104 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS countershaft is employed it is usually preferable to change the pulleys carrying the countershaft belt but any one or all of the four pulleys between the main shaft and the loom may be changed if circumstances warrant. To find, diameters of pulleys required to change speed of loom, knowing" present speeds and diameters of pulleys being used: Rule 70 : Divide speed of loom required by present speed of loom to ascertain percentage of change in speed required. Change one or more pulleys until product of driving pulleys divided by product of driven pulleys is changed to the extent of the percentage of change in loom speed desired. Note — The pulley on main shaft and every al- ternate pulley in the drive are driving pulleys ; the pulley driven by main shaft and every alternate pulley are considered as driven pulleys. Example : Main line shafting runs at 300 r. p. m., using a 30-inch pulley to drive to a 27-inch pulley on countershaft. The countershaft has a 7-inch pulley driving down to a 14-inch pulley on loom. Present speed of loom is about 157 picks per minute. What changes should be made to obtain a loom speed of 165 picks per minute? Answer : The proposed loom speed of 165, di- vided by the present loom speed of 157 1 / / 2 picks per minute, equals 1.0475, showing that the speed is to be increased by 4%%. Present arrangement 30 X 7 of pulleys is . If it were possible to in- 27 X 14 crease diameter of any one driving pulley by CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 105 4%%, or decrease diameter of any driven pulley by 4%%, and get a pulley of commercial size, that would be the easiest arrangement. The change in diameter is, however, too small to make that prac- ticable so it is necessary to try various combina- tions until we strike one where the product of the diameters of the driving pulleys divided by the product of the diameters of the driven pulleys is 4%% more than that of the result of the present arrangement. In trying to make the change with two new pulleys only we may divide the main shaft pulley diameter (30 inches) times 1.0475 by the diameter of the countershaft receiving pulley (27 inches). This gives 1.162. Dividing a trial number 28 by a trial number 24 we get 1.166, which is very nearly the same, so we may use a 28-inch main shaft pulley and a 24-inch counter- shaft receiving pulley; in so doing we avoid changing either the countershaft driving pulley or the loom pulley. Proof : 300 X 30 X 7 X .94 = 156.7 picks per minute 27 X 14 present speed. 300 X 28 X 7 X-94 = 164.5 picks per minute 24 X 14 required speed. To find difference in length of belt required when changing the size of one or both pulleys: Rule 71 : Take the difference between the di- ameters of the pulleys, present and prospective, and one-half of the difference, and add to present belt length if the change is to pulleys the sum of whose diameters is larger than the sum of the 106 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS diameters of the present pulleys, or subtract from present belt length if the sum of the diameters of the new pulleys is smaller than the sum of the diameters of the present pulleys. Example 1: A pulley of 14 inches is substi- tuted for a loom pulley of 12 inches. What length should be added to the loom belt? Answer : 14 — 12 = 2. 2 X 1% = 3 inches longer belt required. Example 2 : A countershaft belt runs on pul- leys of 30 and 27 inches diameter, but these are replaced by 28 and 24 inch pulleys. Should the countershaft belt be lengthened or shortened and by how much? Answer: 30 plus 27 equals 57; 28 plus 24 equals 52. The difference is 57 — 52 or 5 inches. IV2 X 5 = 7% inches, which is the amount that needs to be cut out of the belt. TYPICAL AMERICAN CLOTHS 107 TYPICAL AMERICAN CLOTHS. A book on weave room calculations is hardly- complete without some tabulation of cloths with their particulars. Such a list is of interest as il- lustrating the conditions that confront the weaver in various branches of the industry. The cotton weaving industry has many ramifications and a weaver on duck or coarse sheeting, for instance, usually has little opportunity to visualize the en- tirely different conditions that pertain to the weaving of organdies or Venetians. It is not with- out suggestive value, at least, where a weaver has to make a cloth with which he is not familiar. A full description of a cloth involves stating the weave, the width, the weight, the construction, and the yarn counts. This latter is usually omit- ted from such lists for the reason that, as pre- viously shown, the same cloth may be made of many yarn combinations within a certain limit. That a blanket mill uses only 19s warp count, varying its filling from 3s to 6s to get the weights desired, does not mean that another mill may not be using 18s to 20s or other warp yarns and other counts of filling, but a statement of the yarns used in one mill, if typical, throws some light on the manufacture of blankets by showing that they are usually made of coarse yarns with the filling very much coarser than the warp. We have in- cluded typical yarn counts as indicative of the usual ranges and in order to make the tabulation completer and of more practical value. The list does not attempt to be an exhaustive one but gives examples of cloths, many of them of large production, in some of the most important sections of the industry. The majority of the cotton cloths made in this country, in fact in the world, are plain-woven cloths using counts under 110 CLAKK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 42s (the ordinary spinning limit of short-staple Upland cotton not over 1 1/16 inch in length) and it will be found that those shown are mainly of this predominating class. In stating the counts of ply yarns, the count is shown first and the ply second, for instance 23/11 means 23s, 11-ply. In the wool industry the ply is usually given first and the count second, and this also obtains to some extent in the cotton in- dustry, but we have followed the procedure that is most general and preferable. The figures 23/5/3 used in connection with the warp of cord tire fabrics indicates cabled yarn ; five ends of 23s single are twisted together with wet, reverse twist, and then three ends of this ply yarn cabled with dry, regular twist. CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 111 |S St>t>t>-t>t-t>-cocococo(Ni 53 g, HHHHH fc~fc-fc-"fc~fc>-fc»COCQCO> rH rH lH tH W2 CO CD ^ «■« i2 « * M £ £ ^ X oocDio^°o°oooqt-. 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A fourth division might be made of re-worked fibers. Vegetable Fibers include cotton, jute, flax, hemp, ramie, manila, sisal, sunn, New Zea- land flax, etc. Artificial silk and paper are not, strictly speaking, vegetable fibers but are made of vegetable substances and hence usually included in this class. Animal Fibers include wool, silk, and hair; the main hairs used being mohair, alpaca, cash- mere, and camel's hair. Mineral Fibers include asbestos, finely spun glass, slag wool, and the metal threads used in tinsel and other yarns. Re-Worked Fibers include wool noils, mungo, shoddy, extract, and flocks ; also cotton waste. The following table will be found of use as showing the systems used in numbering yarns of different materials and the method of obtaining equivalent counts in the cotton-yarn numbering system. 152 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS Yarn Numbering Systems and Equivalents System Cotton Spun silk Thown silk Raw silk Artificial silk Worsted Woolen, run Woolen, cut Linen wet-spun Flax dry-spun Jute Metric French half- metric Yarn count is number of: 840-yard hanks in pound. 840-yard hanks in pound. Drams to 1,000 yards. Deniers to 450 meters. Deniers to 450 meters. 560-yard hanks in pound. 1600-yard runs in pound. 300-yard cuts in pound. 300-yard leas in pound. Lbs. to 14,400-yard "spyndle" Lbs. to 14,400-yard "spyndle" 1,000 meters per kilogram. 1,000 meters per y 2 kilogram. Cotton yarn equivalent: X 1. X 1. 304.76 Tf- drams. 5315 -f- deniers. 5315 -r- deniers. X 2/3. X 1-905. X -357. X -357. 17.14 -=- lbs. per spyndle. 17.14 -=- lbs. per spyndle. X 1.18. . X -59. Mohair and alpaca are numbered the same as worsted, and hemp is numbered the same as wet- spun linen yarn. In the leading textile industries — cotton, wool, and silk — there is an increasing trend towards the production of mixed goods, so that these indus- tries are yearly becoming more interdependent. The cotton industry, for instance, has become a strong competitor of the silk industry, as cotton mills produce large amounts of cotton-back satins and dominate the trade in many lines of silk-and- cotton fancies. Cotton yarns are used in making mixed goods in practically every branch of the textile industry but the outside yarns of most in- terest to the cotton weaver are those of silk and artificial silk. After stating some facts in regard to raw cotton and cotton yarn, such as the "cotton weaver should know, we will therefore close with a brief description of the processes involved in making silk and artificial silk yarns. CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 153 RAW COTTON Cotton is the main textile fiber of the world and its mill consumption about equals that of all other textile fibers combined. It is a comparatively new fiber, as compared with wool or flax, and the mod- ern cotton-manufacturing industry may be said to date from the invention of the cotton gin by Elias Whitney in 1793. The world's total crop averages around 22,000,000 bales, of 500 pounds each, and the demand is increasing faster than the supply, particularly in regard to "staple" cot- tons. The United States produces about 60% of the total and is followed by India. China, Egypt, Russia, and Brazil are the only other cotton-pro- ducing countries of importance. The United States is the largest consumer of cotton and in 1919 was followed by the United Kingdom, Japan, India, and China. In normal times Germany, Russia, France, Austria, and Italy are also large consumers. The cottons of interest to the American spin- ner and weaver may be enumerated as follows : Short-staple Uplands. This type constitutes the bulk of the American crop and consists of cotton between 7/8 and 1 1/16 inches in length. It is used only for coarse and medium counts, rarely for ringspun yarns much above 40s, but the bulk of the cotton goods of the world are made of yarns under this number,. Using mules, the English spin short-staple Uplands to 50s or slightly above. Texas, Georgia, South Carolina, Missis- sippi, Arkansas, and North Carolina are the lead- ing producers, Long-staple Uplands. American "staple" cot- ton of li/ 8 to 1% inches (a trifle of "extra" or 154 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS "fancy" staple attaining lengths up to 1% inches) is of the same species as the short-staple type though it is possible that some of the longest have been slightly crossed with Sea Island. The culti- vation of these long-staple varieties (known as Peelers, Benders, Allanseed, etc.) is mainly con- fined to the Mississippi delta and the lowlands of Louisiana. Sea Islands. The longest, finest, silkiest, and most costly of all cottons is grown on islands off the coast of South Carolina but the total amounts to only a few thousand bales. Some of this cot- ton exceeds 2 inches in length. Georgia and Flor- ida produce larger amounts of commercial Sea Island, but of an inferior type, the staple ranging from 1% inches upward. The total Sea Island crop rarely exceeds 100,000 bales and is now much less. American-Egyptians. In recent years efforts have been made to grow Egyptian cotton in the United States and these have met with success in lower California and Arizona. The crop now amounts, to about 50,000 bales and is increasing. By careful seed selection the staple has been im- proved until it averages a full 1% inches. This cotton is most largely used for tire fabrics. Egyptians. There are several varieties of Egyptian cotton. Formerly the brown-tinged Mitafifi was the main type but this has been super- seded by the longer and whiter Sakelaridis (often called Sakel) . Egypt is the main producer of long-staple cotton although its total crop is rarely over 1,500,000 bales (of equivalent 500 lbs.) The United Kingdom is the largest consumer of Egyp- tian cotton and exceeds all other countries in the CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 155 production of fine counts. American imports of Egyptian cotton are mainly for use in coarse yarns for tire fabrics. Indian and Chinese Cottons. These cottons are mainly harsh and of short staple. There is a small import for use in blankets and cheap colored cot- tons. Starting with one-inch cotton as suitable for 20s warp, we can figure that every sixteenth of an inch addition to the length of the staple increases the spinning range by about ten counts. The fol- lowing may be taken as indicative of the normal practice in the United States. Normal Usage of Raw Cottons by American Spinners Will Spin to Following Cotton Staple, Warp Filling Inches. Counts. Counts. Type of Cotton. % to 15/ 16 10s 15s Low-grade Uplands. 1 20s 30s Uplands. 1 1/16 30s 40s Uplands. 1% 40s 50s Rivers, Creeks. 1 3/16 50s 60s Benders. 1*4 60s 70s Peelers, Mitafifi. 1 5/16 70s 80s Peelers, Mitafifi. 1% 80s 90s Peelers, Mitafifi, low Sea Islands. 1 7/16 90s 100s Allanseed, Mitafifi, low Sea Islands. iy 2 100s 120s Allenseed, Sakel, Sea Island. i% 120s 150s Sakel, Sea Island. i% 140s 180s Sakel, Sea Island. 2 200s 250s Selected Sea Island. 2*4 250s 300s Best Sea Island. 156 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS The above is given only as an indication for the spinning limit of cotton depends, not alone on the staple, but also on the grade and the type of cot- ton. The same cotton can be spun to finer counts on the mule than on the ring frame; and the sta- ple and grade of cotton used has to be varied ac- cording to the perfection of yarn desired. COTTON YARN Cotton yarn is numbered according to the num- ber of 840-yard hanks that weigh one pound. Thus No. 10 measures 8,400 yards to the pound and No. 100 measures 84,000 yards to the pound. It is claimed that cotton has been spun to No. 2000; this would measure 1,680,000 yards or 318 miles to the pound. Commercially cotton is rarely spun to over No. 300, and No. 260, used in the lace in- dustry, is the finest yarn imported. A few Amer- ican mills spin up to 200s for their own use but normally there is little made here above 100s warp or 120s filling. Table of Lengths for Cotton Yarns Cotton Yards per Cotton Yards per Cotton Yards per Counts Pound Counts Pound Counts Pound % 420 35 29,400 79 66,360 i 840 36 30,240 80 67,200 i% 1,260 37 31,080 82 68.880 2 1,680 38 31,920 84 70,560 2% 2,100 39 32,760 86 72,240 3 2,520 40 33,360 88 73,920 3V 2 2,940 41 34,440 90 75,600 4 3,360 42 35,280 92 77,280 4V 2 3,780 43 36,120 94 78,960 5 4,200 44 36,960 96 80,640 5% 4,620 45 37,800 98 82,320 6 5,040 46 38,640 100 84,000 6Y2 5,460 47 39,480 105 88,200 7 5,880 48 40,320 110 92,400 7% 6,300 49 41,160 115 96,600 8 6,720 50 42,000 120 100,800 8y 2 7,140 51 42,840 125 105,000 9 7,560 52 43,680 130 109,200 9% 7,980 53 44,520 135 113,400 10 8,400 54 45,360 140 117,600 11 9,240 55 46,200 145 121,800 12 10,080 56 47,040 150 126,000 13 10,920 57 47,880 155 130,200 14 11,760 58 48,720 160 134,400 15 12,600 59 49,560 165 138,600 16 13,440 60 50,400 170 142,800 17 14,280 61 51,240 175 147,000 18 15,120 62 52,080 180 151,200 19 15,960 63 52,920 185 155,400 20 16,800 64 53,760 190 159,600 21 17,640 65 54,600 195 163,800 22 18,480 66 55,440 200 168,000 23 19,320 67 56,280 205 172,200 24 20,160 68 57,120 210 176,400 25 21,000 69 57,960 215 180,600 26 21,840 70 58,800 220 184,800 27 22,680 71 59,640 225 189,000 28 23,520 72 60,480 230 193,200 29 24,360 73 61,320 235 197,400 30 25,200 74 62,160 240 201,600 31 26,040 75 63,000 245 205,800 32 26,880 76 63,840 250 210,000 33 27,720 77 64,680 255 214,200 34 28,560 78 65,520 ! 260 218,400 158 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS Cotton yarn may be either carded or combed. Some yarns are double carded, at a cost about in- termediate between ordinary carded and ordinary combed. Extreme fine counts, such as 250s, are double combed. Ordinarily the finer the yarn the higher the percentage of waste. In the manufac- ture of coarse carded yarns for osnaburgs or the lower grades of duck the waste may be under 12% ; for sheetings it is ordinarily about 15% and for print cloths about 18%. Ordinary combed yarns average around 30% waste. In the case of double-combed yarns the waste may be as much as 40%. These percentages are based on the gross weight of the raw cotton, and in figuring costs they are reduced by reason of the return from waste sold. In making sheeting yarns, for in- stance the waste is usually about 15% of the quan- tity, but only 12% of the value, of the cotton used. American yarns are usually ring spun and ring twisted. English yarns are usually mule spun and ring twisted, but where ply yarns of superior quality are required for fine lace work there is used a flyer twister. The flyer twister with its slower and more positive speed is essential for perfection in twisting. Yarns may be unbleached, bleached, dyed, print- ed, or colored. The term "colored" includes ply yarns made of a gray and a colored yarn. Single yarns spun with one gray and one dyed roving are known as "mock twist" yarns and are largely used as filling in denims. Unprocessed yarns are known as "plain" yarns in contradistinction to yarns finished by gassing, mercerizing, polishing, or other process. In gassing, the yarn is passed one or more times through the blue part of the flame from a Bunsen CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 159 gas burner, the speed being regulated so that the fuzz of projecting fibers which is found on all plain yarns is burned off without the yarn itself catching fire. Gassed yarn shows up smoother, rounder, and brighter though slightly darker in shade. An incidental but important result is that the yarn, by reason of the removal of the fuzz, weighs less per yard and is therefore raised to a higher count; to make 100/2 for instance it is necessary to spin to only about 94s. Owing to the danger of tendering, cotton yarns are rarely gassed in the single. In mercerizing, the yarn is subjected to the action of an alkali such as caustic soda and kept under tension during the process. The object of mercerization is to obtain a lustrous silk-like fin- ish; incidentally the yarn is increased in strength and in affinity for dyestuffs. The caustic soda appears to be absorbed by the cotton fiber which swells and thereby straightens out from its nor- mal twisted-ribbon form; if the tendency to con- tract in length is prevented, the fiber assumes an appearance more cylindrical and hairlike, and the smoother and more cylindrical shape makes it a better light reflector and therefore more lustrous. Not only sewing thread but large amounts of cotton yarn are finished by polishing and used in making shoe laces, braids, "luster linings," and upholstery fabrics (including imitation hair- cloth) . About three-fourths of the yarns spun in the United States are used in the mills where spun. The knitting industry is the largest outlet for those spun for the market. Cotton yarns are also bought for use in the lace, lace-curtain, embroid- ery, and braid industries ; and for weaving mixed 160 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS goods in silk, mohair, or wool mills; in addition to those required by cotton weaving mills which, either because they are not equipped with spin- dles or because they require special counts or qual- ities, buy outside. Imports of cotton yarn are negligible and consist mainly of fine two-ply yarns mulespun of Egyptian cotton. SILK Silk is the product of the silk worm or cater- pillar. The domesticated worm is fed on mul- berry leaves stripped from the trees. After feed- ing for about a month the worm spins its cocoon <5r silken envelope; the silk fluid is exuded from the worm's underlip in two strands, called "brins," which immediately unite to form the "bave" or silk filament. After completely envel- oping itself the worm turns to a chrysalis and this in turn, if not killed, becomes a moth which breaks its way out of one end of the cocoon. The female moth lays her eggs and dies shortly there- after. The cycle from birth to death, including all transformations, is less than 60 days, and the eggs are kept in cold storage until time for the next crop. Pierced cocoons, from which the moths -have emerged, cannot be reeled because of the broken filaments, so only about 2 per cent of the chrysalides are allowed to develop into moths, the remainder are killed in the cocoon, usually by stifling in hot, dry air. Tussah silks, used in the production of goods of rough appearance, are produced by wild (i. e. undomesticated) silk worms that feed on the leaves of the oak and other trees. The main silk-producing countries are Japan, China, and Italy. The United States is the larg- est manufacturer of silk but imports all of its CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 161 raw material. Although produced by cheap labor, silk is the most costly of all fibers because of the great amount of time and care involved in raising the worm and reeling the silk. Because of the eco- nomic difficulty, all efforts to raise silk in the United States have proved failures. There are two general classes of silk: (1) Raw, or reeled, silk, from which is made thrown-silk yarn; and (2) Waste silk, from which is made spun-silk yarn. Raw Silk Raw Silk is a term used specifically to denote silk in skeins, as reeled from the cocoon or re- reeled. Its meaning is therefore more circum- scribed than that of such terms as raw cotton or raw wool since a large proportion of the silk sup- ply of the world, known as silk waste, is un- reelable. Raw silk is the finest, most elastic, and most durable of all textile fibers. It is specially prized for its brilliant luster. Reeling is a simple but tedious process, as it requires the product of from 2,500 to 3,000 silk- worms to produce a pound of raw silk. Raw silks are known according to place of origin as Kansai, Shinshiu, Canton, Shanghai, etc., and classified into Special Grand Extra, Ex- tra Extra A, Extra Extra B, Best Extra, Extra, Best No. 1, etc. The system of classification is very unsatisfactory as the "best extra" of one chop (reeler's trademark) may not be as good as the "extra" of another chop, and the classifica- tions by various reelers vary in quality from sea- son to season. Raw silk is numbered according to the weight in deniers of a skein 450 meters in length. A de- 162 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS nier is 5 centigrams, equivalent to 0.771618 grain, and 450 meters is equivalent to 492.125 yards; therefore the constant 4,464,528 divided by the denierage will give the yards per pound. As this system is based on the weight of an arbitrary fixed length, the finer the silk the smaller is the count; this is the reverse of the system used in numbering yarns of cotton or wool. The silk filament, as spun by the worm, is too attenuated to stand much strain, so in reeling the filaments from 3 to 12 cocoons are united to form the raw-silk thread of commerce. The 13/15 denier silk, generally reeled from 5 or 6 cocoons, is usually taken as the standard count, and is the raw silk in largest demand for throwing and dye- ing. Owing to the variation in size of different cocoon filaments, and of the same filament at dif- ferent portions of its length, it is impossible to make the combined raw-silk thread of an exact size ; in specifying the number, therefore, the lim- its are usually given 2 denier apart. 13/15 denier raw silk means that 450 meters weighs between 13 and 15 denier, the average is 14 and if the con- stant 4,464,528 be divided by 14 we get 318,895 as equivalent yards per pound, equal to No. 380 cotton yarn. Usual sizes of raw silk are 8/10 to 28/30 deniers (say within the extreme limits of 558,066 to 148,818 yards to the pound, equivalent to cotton counts of No. 664 to No. 177) ; the pro- duction of sizes finer or coarser is very limited. Some silk goods are woven of raw silk in the gum ; these fabrics, after boiling out of the gum and bleaching, have a softness and brilliancy un- attainable in cloths made of thrown-silk yarns. The famous "habutae" of Japan is a striking illus- tration of such work, but at least a fourth of CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 163 American raw silk imports is woven in the gum, without any throwing. Thrown Silk Thrown Silk may be denned as yarn made from raw silk, that is, from silk reeled from the cocoon. Raw silk consists of several parallel co- coon filaments held together by the natural gum only. The proportion of gum varies but a pound (16 ounces) of raw silk usually contains 3 to 4 ounces of gum. Silk cannot be boiled off, dyed and weighted, and remain in workable condition. If the silk is to be skein dyed it must therefore first be thrown into yarn. Silk "throwing" (from the Saxon "thrawan", to twist) is the technical term used for the pro- cesses involved in making yarn from raw silk. As raw silk is already in the form of a continuous strand, the only processes involved are soaking (to soften the gum) , winding, doubling, spinning (without drafting) , and reeling. Raw silk is the single and thrown silk is the ply yarn. Cotton yarns, doubled, are known as 2-ply warp, 3-ply filling, etc., whereas thrown silk yarns are simi- larly designated as 2-thread organzine, 3-thread tram, etc. Organzine (often called "organ"), used for warp, is made by doubling two or more threads which have first been well twisted in the single, and then giving them a firm twisting in the oppo- site direction. Tram, used for filling, is made by combining two or more threads and then twisting them to- gether with a slack twist. Strength is not as essential as it is in the warp, and the slack twisted filling permits a more brilliant finish. 164 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS In the United States, as in England, thrown silk is usually numbered according to the weight in drams of 1,000 yards. As there are 16 drams to the ounce and 16 ounces to the pound, this is equivalent to the weight in pounds of 256,000 yards. In Continental Europe thrown silk is num- bered the same as raw silk. To reduce denier counts to dram counts, divide the deniers by 17.44. Thus 2-thread organ of 13/15 deniers would be 14 X 2 = 28^-17.44 = 1.60 drams; and 4-thread tram of 16/18 deniers would be 17 X 4 = 68 -=- 17.44 = 3.90 drams. Or- ganzine is usually between 1.50 and 2.50 drams, and tram between 1.70 and 5.10 drams. For the hosiery industry silk is thrown into yarn as coarse as 10 drams. The standard tram twist is about 5 turns to the inch; the standard organzine twist is stated as 14/16 turns to the inch, meaning 14 turns in the singles and 16 turns in the ply. Crepe yarns are much harder twisted. Some Georgette crepe yarns contain as high as 100 turns per inch. The cost of throwing Georgette crepe yarn is more than double the cost of throwing organzine, and about four times the cost of throwing tram. Silk Waste Silk Waste is a term used to include all silk other than that reeled from the cocoon. It is only to a small extent the by-product of manufacture and the majority is silk that has never been used but which, from one cause or another, was found unreelable. Only about half of the silk in a good cocoon is reelable, as the outer layers are usually coarse, uneven, and broken, while the extreme inner lay- CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 165 ers, spun as the worm is nearing exhaustion of its supply, are too attenuated to stand the strain of reeling. Many wild silks are either unreelable or more profitably worked as waste. Cocoons from which the moths have emerged, necessarily breaking the filaments in their exit, are known as "pierced cocoons," and classed among the best of "waste silks." Of the silk wastes that are the by- product of manufacture the most important are the exhausted noils from the last dressing or combing process. Silk waste is imported from China, Japan, and Italy. Spun Silk Spun Silk is made from silk waste. The waste is first degummed, opened up and laoped, and then combed on a series of three or more "dress- ing machines." The first "drafts" or combed lengths from the dressing machines are prepared, on machines similar to those used in the prelimi- nary manufacture of flax and other long fibers, and then spun into yarn. The noil or shorter fibers discarded in combing are carded and spun into yarn on machines very similar to those used in the cotton industry. The consumption of spun silk is steadily grow- ing, since such yarns are cheaper than thrown silk and for many purposes fully as acceptable. Spun silk finds its main use as pile yarn in the manufacture of silk velvets (usually made with a cotton back) , but is employed in many other lines, particularly in tissues to be piece-dyed or printed. Large amounts are used in cotton and wool mills in the production of mixed goods. There are two general systems for numbering 166 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS spun silk. In the metric system, used on the Continent, the count indicates the number of thousand meters per kilogram, and is based on the singles. In the English system, which is more generally employed in this country, the count indi- cates the number of 840-yard hanks to the pound. The latter is similar to cotton-yarn numbering so far as single yarn is concerned, but is different for ply yarn, where cotton is based on the single and spun silk on the finished yarn. For instance 100/1 cotton or spun silk yarn measures 84,000 yards to the pound; 100/2 cotton yarn, however, consists of two ends of 100s and measures only 42,000 yards to the pound whereas 100/2 spun silk con- sists of two ends of 200s and so measures 84,000 yards to the pound. ARTIFICIAL SILK There are three principal types of artificial silk. The type mainly produced in the United States and England is known as viscose silk, or wood- silk, and is made from woodpulp. Nitro-cellulose silks and cupra-ammonium silks are produced mainly in Belgium, France, and Germany, and are made from cotton waste or linters. The general principle of the apparatus used in "spinning" artificial silk is simple, but there are many different designs which are continually be- ing improved upon. The woodpulp or cotton waste, after being chemically treated and reduced to a pasty mass of the required consistency, is in- troduced into the spinning apparatus, a stout res- ervoir, and is then forced therefrom, by continu- ous air pressure, through a series of tubes termi- nating in glass or platinum nozzles with capillary openings varying, according to the size of the fila- CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 167 ments desired, from one three-hundreds to one fiftieth of an inch. As the individual filaments, usually 5 to 8 deniers in size, are too fine for com- mercial use, 12 to 32 filaments are always com- bined to form the "single" of artificial silk yarn. Artificial silk is numbered according to the raw silk system, by the weight in deniers (0.05 gram) of a standard length of 450 meters. The constant 5,315 divided by the denierage gives the equiva- lent cotton counts. The domestic viscose silk is made mainly into 150 and 300 deniers, equivalent to No. 35.4 and No. 17.7 cotton counts. Some nitro-cellulose Chardonnet silks are imported as fine as 60 deniers, equivalent to No. 88.6 cotton count. Artificial silks are more lustrous than real silk but are heavier, weaker, less elastic, and more dif- ficult to manipulate. The price per pound is less than that of natural silk, though this is to a small extent offset by the fact that the specific gravity of artificial silk is about 10 to 20 per cent greater. One of the chief drawbacks to its use in cloths has been its inability to withstand moisture, but some varieties, even of woodsilk, have now been per- fected to the extent that they can be used in wash goods. The demand for artificial silk is steadily increasing and there is apparently no limit to its possibilities. It is not impossible that in time the producton of artificial silk may surpass that of natural slk. 168 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS ARTIFICIAL HORSEHAIR Artificial horsehair differs from artificial silk in that it is coarser and stiffer. It also differs in the fact that it is produced and used in coarse sin- gle filaments and not, as in the case of artificial silk in fine filaments which must be combined be- fore use. Artificial horsehair comes only in very coarse sizes, mainly the 300 and 600 deniers, equivalent to No. 17.7 and No. 8.9 cotton counts. APPENDIX 169 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS 171 U. S. WEIGHTS AND MEASURES Linear Measures 12 inches (in.) =1 foot (ft.) 3 feet = 1 yard (yd.) 1,760 yards = 1 mile. Square Measures 144 square inches (sq. in) = 1 square foot (sq. ft.) 9 square feet = 1 square yard (sq. yd.) 4,840 square yards = 1 acre. 3,097,600 square yards = 1 square mile. Cubic Measures 1,728 cubic inches (cu. in.) = 1 cubic foot (cu. ft.) 27 cubic feet = 1 cubic yard. Weight Measures 16 drams (dr.) =1 ounce (oz.) 16 ounces = 1 pound. 437% grains = 1 ounce. 7,000 grains = 1 pound. 2,000 pounds = 1 ton. 2,240 pounds = 1 long ton. Liquid Measures 2 pints (pt.) = 1 quart (qt.) 4 quarts = 1 gallon (gal.) 31 V 2 gallons = 1 barrel (bbl.) (A gallon contains 231 cubic inches.) Dry Measures 2 pints (pt.) =1 quart (qt.) 8 quarts = 1 peck (pk.) 4 pecks = 1 bushel (bu.) (A bushel contains 2,150.4 cubic inches.) Measures of Time 60 seconds (sec.) = 1 minute (min.) 60 minutes = 1 hour (hr.) 24 hours = 1 day. 365 days = 1 year. 172 CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS METRIC EQUIVALENTS 1 centimeter (cm.) = 0.3937 inch. 1 meter (m) = 100 cm. = 39.37 inches = 1.0936 yds. 1 square centimeter (sq. cm.) = 0.155 square inches. 1 square meter = 1.196 square yards. 1 cubic centimeter (c. c.) = 0.061 cubic inch. 1 cubic meter = 1.3079 cubic yards. 1 liter = 1.0567 liquid quarts. 1 kilogram (kilo, or kg.) = 2.2046 pounds. 1 metric ton (1,000 kilo.) =2204.6 pounds. 1 inch = 2.540 centimeters. 1 yard = 0.9144 meter. 1 square inch = 6.452 square centimeters. 1 square yard = 0.8361 square meter. 1 cubic inch = 16.387 cubic centimeters. 1 cubic yard = 0.7646 cubic meter. 1 liquid quart i =0.9463 liter. 1 pound = 0.4536 kilogram. 1 short ton (2,000 lbs.) = 0.9072 metric ton. 1 long ton (2,240 lbs.) = 1.0160 metric tons. 1 kilo per 100 square meters = 54.25 sq. yds. per pound. 1 square yard per pound = 54.25 kilos per 100 sq. m. 1 thread per square inch = 0.19685 threads per square of 5 mm. side. 1 thread per sq. of 5 mm. side = 5.08 threads per sq. in. 1 thread per square inch = 0.23622 threads per square 1 of 6 mm. side. 1 thread per sq. of 6 mm. side = 4.23334 threads per sq. in. (NOTE — In the Spanish, Cuban, and Philippine tariffs, cloth constructions are stated in terms of threads per square of 6 millimeters side; in most other countries using metric system in terms of threads per square of 5 mm. side.) If you desire high standard dyes supplemented with an unusual technical assistance DUPDNTq- YESTUFF^ are at your service. Where Du Pont Indigo 20% Paste does not find application we recommend our several blends of SUPHOGENE BLUES. The range of our Sulphogene Colors is quite complete. Particularly do we invite attention to the SULPHOGENE BLACKS. For purity of shade and high concentration they cannot be excelled. E. I. du Pont de Nemours & Co., Inc. Dyestuffs Sales Department Wilmington Delaware Branch Offices New York Philadelphia Chicago Boston Providence Charlotte, N. C. 1845 LET DIXIE LITE IT! Light your mill with the purest, most permanent mill white on the market! On Your Cottages use Bay State Liquid Paint, Bay State Brick and Cement Coating, Dixie Liquid Paint, In-or-Out Varnish. Manufactured by WADSWORTH, HOWLAND & CO. BOSTON MASS. (INC.) SOUTHERN REPRESENTATIVE W. A. WILLIAMS Greenville, S. C. A Text For Textile Officials U&rp Sizing FREE This Hand Book on Warp Sizing will be of help in solving the various problems and questions of your Slashing department operation. Loom shutdowns, loss of production and "sec- onds" — caused by knots, bunches and breakage — can be overcome by prop- er sizing methods. This book tells how. 56 pages of illustrated articles, pre- pared by a textile expert, after exhaustive tests and investigations in some of the largest cotton mills, also comprehensive data and tables indispensable to the cotton mill man. A handy reference and guide book, covering, among many other things: Importance of slashing and its relation to weaving; Object of sizing; Influence of temperature; Breaking strength of sized yarns and of cloth; Sizing materials and mixtures; Cooking of size, etc. This useful book, published at $1.00, will be sent free on request to interested cotton mill men. Write today, asking for Hand Book C. W. 500. C. J. Tagliabue Mfg. Co. 18-88 Thirty-third Street BROOKLYN, N. Y. Curtis & Marble Machine Company Worcester, Mass. Cloth Room & Packaging Machinery For Cotton Goods sJVLachines for Inspecting Spreading Sewing Rolling Singeing Trademarking Shearing Stamping Brushing Winding Calender Rolling Folding Measuring Doubling Packaging, etc. Finishing Machinery for Woolen, Worsted and FeltGoods Carpets, Plushes, Silks, Embroideries, Rubberized Fabrics, etc. Picking, Burring and Mixing Machines for Wool or Mixed Stock Your Goal is 100% Production This goal is neared by preventing looms stopping. Your shuttle can be redesigned by yourself or ourselves to help prevent looms stopping. Some of the things that are done when purposely re- designing shuttles to promote more efficient weav- ing conditions are to (1) Increase filling carrying capacity. (2) Change shape of shuttle. (3) Change kind of wood. (4) Change kind of metal fittings in shuttle. (5) Change ballooning preventers, and ten- sions. (6) Reinforce Shuttle With Fiber. We would be glad to go into all changes in specific manner if you will send us sample shut- tle a"d' filling carrier. Shambow Shuttle Co. Woonsocket, R. I. Draper Corporation HOPEDALE MASS. IMPROVED COTTON MACHINERY NORTHROP LOOMS Trade Mark Reg. U. S. Pat, Off. Twisters Spoolers Warpers Reels DUTCHER TEMPLES Trade Mark Reg:. U, S. Pat. Off. Mirror Spinning Rings Trade Mark Reg. U, S. Pat. Off. Rabbeth Patent Centrifugal Clutch Spindles Milled Machines Screws and Other Specialties SOUTHERN OFFICE 188 S Forsyth St. ATLANTA GA. fflEAVE Room Calculations are made to show results obtained or goals to be realized. Hit and miss methods of sizing warps or finishing cloths, result in low production, high seconds, lots of sweepings and dirty and dusty working quarters. m Wbmtmfmm8m SIZOL compounds are made in large quantities, produce evenly good results and assure as much as is humanly possible, weave- and finishing-room satisfaction. To all interested in the subject, we recommend the reading of our leaflet "Sizol In The Weave And Finishing Room." — it gives good advice and many recipies of real worth. The Seydel Mfg. Co. Jersey City, N. J. TELL US YOUR Traveler Troubles WE'LL ADVISE YOU HOW TO OBTAIN BETTER RESULTS •I We carry in stock a large assortment of spinning and twisting travelers, and can make shipments of any size or style at short notice. U. S. Ring Traveler Co. PROVIDENCE, R. I. Amos M. Bowen, Treas. 159 Aborn Street Southern Representative Wm, P. Vaughan Greenville, S. C. BOX 792 They Drive or Light More than a Million happy Spindles The Standard of Excellence For Electrical Installations in Textile Mills And Villages. HUNTINGTON & GUERRY (incorporated) GREENVILLE, S. C. Morse Chain Company General Office ITHACA, N. Y. Works The Largest Manufacturers of Silent Chain Drives in the World The Ideal Drive For Textile Mills Drives for every purpose. Oil Baths Not Require to r x r 171 > in 03 r H Changing Over Without Shutting Down Economize Space Lower Costs MORSE ENGINEERING SERVICE Renders Expert Engineering Service In Connection With oAll Transmission Problems. SOUTHERN OFFICES: ATLANTA, GA. Candler Building:, Earl F. Scott. M. E. BALTIMORE, MD. 1402 Lexington Building CHARLOTTE, N. C. 404 Commercial Bank Building Loom Motors TOTALLY ENCLOSED WASTE PACKED BEARINGS ARRANGED FOR CONDUIT CONNECTIONS HIGH EFFICIENCY Our complete line of motors built especially for this service, now consists of ratings 1-3, 1-2, 3-4, 1, and 1 1-4 H. P. AlAJZ-CHAUMEft/ Manufacturing 1 Company Milwaukee, Wis., U. S. A. District Offices in All Leading Cities. Mason Machine Works TAUNTON, MASS. Cotton Mill Machinery Revolving Flat Cards Drawing Frames Spinning Frames Cotton Looms Silk Looms Dobbies Tire Duck Looms Medium and Heavy Duck Looms Complete Automatic Looms Southern Agent EDWIN HOWARD Greenville, S. C. 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"WALLACE, Birmingham, Ala.