jTaunttrg 2Ia«nJirg l^tnte. A book of Laundry Information for Housewives, Laundresses, Students in Domestic Science, and all others interested in the best Laundry work. Arranged, complied and published in the interests of MRS. STEWART'S LIQUID BLUING. Copyright 1904 by Allyn K. Ford, Minneapolis. LIBRARY cf OONGHcSS Twu Copies Keceivea LUC 57 1904 Uopyrliriii tniry CUSS ^. XXc Noi COPY B. Contents. PAGE Chapter I, Soap and Water 5 Chapter II. Washing 9 Chapter III. Blueing 16 Chapter IV. Starching 22 Chapter V. Ironing 27 Chapter VI. Removing Stains 31 Chapter VII. Cleaning Special Materials 87 Chapter VIII. Miscellaneous Household Recipes 42 ^. ^cP / PREFACE. This book is written with the idea of helping those who do laundry work, the intention being to give concisely and explicitly, ways by which wash day may be made less of a burden to the housewife; and meth- ods which will either make the work easier or else cleanse better than formerly. It contains some infor- mation familiar to the experienced housewife and some which is here published for the first time. A careful perusal of its pages, however, will repay any woman however experienced or inexperienced she may be. If there are any recipes, bearing on laundry work or cleaning of any kind, which you have found es- pecially good and which are not mentioned here; par- ticularly if calling for the use of MRS. STEWART'S BLUING, send them to Mrs. N. E. Stewart, Minne- apolis. You will receive acknowledgment of their re- ceipt, and if available they will be published in a new edition of this book. Your name will be withheld if requested. If, at any time, you have any trouble in laundry work of any kind, write to Mrs. N. E. Stewart, Minne- apolis. You will receive, in reply, expert advice free of all charge. Schools, colleges, etc., who wish to get copies of this book for the use of their students, should write for special terms. Minneapolis, January, 1905. Mrs. Stewart's Bluing. The only Perfect Bluing. A Laundry Favorite For Twenty Years. CHAPTER I. SOAP AND WATER. In laundry work, the first and most important thing is water, and plenty of it. This is by far the greatest cleanser known, and one ought not to have to stint on this most necessary agent. It is a fact that if one had plenty of water and plenty of time, one could, with rubbing, cleanse almost everything. This is, of course, a rather hard way to accomplish a washing, and there are few who could spare the time or strength necessary. To the housewife water may be classed as of two kinds, hard and soft. Hard water, which contains a great deal of mineral substances in solution, may be told immediately by the long time it takes soap to make a lather; while soft water produces a lather quickly, and dissolves soap rapidly. For laundry work it is most important that the water be soft so that the soap will do its work properly ; and in localities where nothing but hard water is to be had, the water must be made soft or "broke" as it is called. In order to do this, some chemical is usually added to the water, such as sal soda, lye, borax, or ammonia. One table- spoonful of sal soda or borax, or one-half tablespoon- ful of powdered lye, to each gallon of water, is about the proportion to use; though waters vary in hard- ness, some requiring stronger and others a weaker 6 Laundry Hints. solution. Whichever is used, should be first dissolved in hot water in a granite iron dish, before putting in boiler. See that it is entirely dissolved, for if not, it is likely to injure the clothes. After the water comes to a boil, skim and strain before using. If ammonia is used, one should use enough so as to counteract the minerals, but the water should not be hot, as this evaporates the ammonia and causes it to lose its strength. In the case of each one of these chemicals one must be careful to use only just enough of them to make the water soft, for an excess will eat into the clothes and cause damage ; or if not that, will at least make the clothes yellow. If water is what is called ''temporary" hard water, it may be softened by merely boiling, and the old-fashioned way is to put a glass vial in the kettle of water which is being boiled. The carbonate of lime, and other impurities, will then be found adhering to the bottle. It is said that this makes the water boil much quicker also. To Clear Muddy or Dirty Water. In many localities the water holds a great deal of sand in suspension, and this, of course, must be over- come before using. To do this take one tablespoonful of alum dissolved in hot water, and add this to each gallon of water to be used. This precipitates the dirt to the bottom ; and the top, which is now clean, may be poured ofif and used. Water for washing should, of course, be clean and free from any odor when either hot or cold, and it is best to avoid, when possible, water which contains iron, as this will cause rust spots on the clothes if the soap is not thoroughly washed out. Soap and Water. Laundry Soap. Next to water the most important thing is soap. This is a great aid in cleaning as the soap unites with the dirt in the clothes to loosen it, when the water washes it out. For good work a good laundry soap should be used. If one buys too cheap soap, or one on whose quality one cannot rely, it is likely to be greatly adulterated with rosin, which is hard on the hands. Almost all laundry soap contains some rosin, and if but a small percentage, it is not injurious. It is best to buy soap by the case, remove from wrappers and let the soap dry and season. Well seasoned soap will last a great deal longer, and besides, one can get a case of soap at a considerable saving over buying but a few bars at a time. For washing woolens, silks, laces, etc., a neutral soap, i. e., one containing but little free alkali, should be used. Soft soap is too strong for most laundry work, being very hard on the hands and clothes. It is used only in washing very dirty, greasy articles of clothing, scrubbing floors, etc. One should always exercise economy in using soap, by saving the small pieces when they are too small to use. These can later on be shaved into the boiler of clothes. It is well to form the habit of not leaving the soap in the water any longer than is neces- sary, for this wastes the soap and if one forgets to take it out, the entire bar will soon disappear. To Make Soap. It is far better to buy soap than to make it at home, as the saving is hardly equal to the trouble of making Laundry Hints. it yourself. Often, however, one can use up the fats and grease from the kitchen in this way, and we therefore give this recipe for making hard soap : To Make Hard Soap. The fats, greases, etc., should first be clarified by boiling with several pieces of raw potatoes, then skimmed and strained through cheese cloth. Now take 2^ pints of cold water in a granite iron dish, and add carefully one pound best lye. This should be done with the greatest care, as the lye will eat the hands if one is unfortunate enough to get any on them. It is best to cover them with an old cloth or paper for protection. The mixture becomes hot as the lye dis- solves, and it should be allowed to stand and cool to about 70 degrees temperature. Now take 63/2 pounds of the clarified fat, and warm till melted, but do not boil. Pour the lye slowly on the grease, stirring mean- while, and when about the consistency of thin honey, pour into pans which should be wet before pouring the mixture into them. Do not stir too long. When cold the soap may be cut up into cakes of convenient size. To Make Soft Soap. Take seven and one-half pounds of potash, ten pounds of grease and forty gallons of water. Dissolve potash in a pan of water, add say one-third of the grease, and heat. Now mix in the remainder of the grease and add the rest of the water gradually for several days. It will be ready for use in about two weeks. CHAPTER II. WASHING. On the day before "wash day" the soiled articles should be sorted into piles, each containing one kind only. Look over each piece carefully and if any are torn, mend them, or at least draw the edges together so the rent will not be made any worse. If any have stains, remove them now, though a better time would have been to have removed them when the stain was made. The piles of linen will then be: First, table linen ; second, bed and body linen ; third, handker- chiefs ; fourth, muslins, laces, etc. ; fifth, kitchen cloths, etc. Flannels should be shaken and dusted and rolled up dry, prints and colored goods laid away dry. If possible, it is best to have each kind put to soak by themselves in weak suds, but if this is not possible, all except table linen, handkerchiefs, kitchen cloths, etc., may be put to soak together. These latter must be kept by themselves till clean. Handkerchiefs, if badly soiled, may be put to soak in salt and water first. It is a good plan also to put collars, cufifs, shirts, etc., to soak by themselves, so that the old starch will not soak into the other articles which do not require starch. Now prepare melted soap by shaving or slicing pieces of soap, using all which have been saved for this 10 Laundry Hints. purpose when too small for other use. Place in an earthen jar with just enough water to cover it and set on stove till the soap melts. This must be made fresh every week as it loses its strength if kept long. Use about one-quarter pound soap to each gallon of water. The clothes should be soaked over night in weak suds, which greatly aids the cleaning process next day. On washing day rise early, as much better work can be done before the heat of the day comes on. To Wash Flannels Without Shrinking. First, wash the flannels; because they take so long to dry, and as only warm water — not hot — is needed, this can be taken from the boiler while it is heating water for the rest of the washing, and by the time the flannels are finished, the water will be hot. In washing flannels, five things must be observed: 1. Wash but one piece at a time. 2. Do not soak, boil or rub. 3. Do not wash in dirty water. 4. Wash in waters of the same temperature. 5. Use a neutral soap, i. e., one containing but little free alkali. After putting some of the melted soap into the water, and working up a good lather, take the lightest colored flannel piece, which has previously been well shaken, and plunge into the lather. Do not at any time rub the article, as this makes the fibres harsh ; but in- stead, punch and knead it till cleansed. If one soap lather is not enough use a second. When clean wring tightly, shake again and rinse in two waters of the Washing. 11 same temperature as before, after which blue with MRS. STEWART'S BLUING, squeeze as dry as pos- sible, and, if the weather is fine, hang out doors at once. If it is necessary to dry in the house, hang near the fire, but not too near, so it will dry without shrinking. If any steam arises, while the articles are drying, there is too much heat, and you will act ac- cordingly. In wringing it is best to use a wringer so as not to twist the fibre. Colored flannels can be washed in the same way, but should be done with as little delay as possible. The last rinsing water should have some vinegar added, in the proportion of one tablespoonful to each quart, or if there are two or more colors, use salt instead of vinegar. This helps to set and revive the colors. They should be hung wrong side out, and when nearly dry turned. Knitted and woven w^oolen garments should be pulled into shape while drying, and it is a good plan to have frames made for woolen stockings, over which they can be stretched while drying. All flannels can be washed easier by adding a little ammonia to the water (one tablespoonful to two gal- lons), and this must be carefully rinsed out. Ammonia is quite necessary when hard water is used. By adding one tablespoonful of glycerine to the last water, the wool will be kept soft. Do not wash flannels on a rainy day if possible, or hang them where they will freeze. To Wash Blankets. The different waters must be all of the same luke- 12 Laundry Hints. warm temperature. Prepare two tubs of warm suds with rain water and neutral soap. Do not rub soap on blankets, but punch and knead them. When water is soiled wring and treat in the same manner in the other tub. Rinse in luke-warm soft water and hang out to dry at once. Pin blanket on the line the long way of the blanket, so the colors will run down their own lines; putting only enough over the line to hold the blanket in place. When dry fold carefully. A Good Soap for Washing Woolens. Take one large bar Ivory Soap (or any other neutral soap) and shave it into three quarts of cold water. Heat till it boils, then cool, when two tablespoonfuls borax and one-half cup wood alcohol may be added. This mixture is sufficient for eight blankets. To Wash Prints and Colored Goods. In order that the colors on these may be kept bright, they should be set before the clothes are wet. This can best be done by soaking in salt and water (one tablespoonful to the gallon), or in vinegar and water (one-fourth cup vinegar to one gallon water). (Further instructions regarding the setting of colors are given in chapter seven.) Wash in lukewarm water and melted soap, avoiding rubbing, and washing more by squeez- ing and kneading. Rinse well, wring thoroughly and dry immediately with no sun. If the articles are to be starched stiflf. have the starch ready and dip at once as the colors may run if allowed to remain wet. If very stiff starching is required however, the ar- ticles must be thoroughly dried so they will absorb enough starch. Quick washing, quick drying and no Washing. ^3 sun are the secrets of successful washing of prints. Colored clothes should not be boiled. To Wash Stockings. Stockings are washed first on the right side and then on the wrong side. Rinse in clear water. Do not boil. New stockings should be soaked in salt water to set the color. To Wash White Clothes. First of all remove any stains that are found, and either mend or draw together any rents that are ob- served. Prepare moderately strong suds of water as hot as the hands can bear. Wash cleanest pieces first, a few at a time ; first on the right side, then on the wrong side. Rub only enough to remove the dirt. Shake the article, soap the parts still dirty, boil and rinse. Blue with MRS. STEWART'S BLUING and hang in the bright sunshine and fresh air to dry. Table Linen. This does not generally require much rubbing as it is rarely very dirty, and besides hard rubbing injures the cloth. When clean, put in boiler in tepid water and let boil a few minutes, taking care not to let it stop boiling before the clothes are taken out. Place in a tub of clear, luke-warm water, wash and wring. It is well to loosen the rollers of the wringer as table linen creases easily. To Wash With Paraffine or Kerosene Oil. This method, while effective, requires a great deal of fuel, water and soap, but requires no rubbing what- ever. 14 Laundry Hints. It is best to soak the clothes over night in luke- warm water, then make a strong suds of soap and add a tablespoonful of pure paraffine or kerosene oil to every three gallons of water used. Bring to a boil, and boil steadily for a half hour. If the boiling stops the dirt will settle on the clothes. Then remove, wring and w^ash in several waters, the first, at least, being hot water. If not yet clean, repeat the process with more kerosene or paraffine and clean water. The rinsing must be thoroughly done or the clothes will smell of kerosene. Be careful in using the kerosene, and do not pour it from the can directly into boiler, but into a cup first. How to Wash Without Fire. In summer, clothes may be washed without fire by soaking over night in a suds of soft water, rubbing out in the morning, soaping the dirty places and laying out on a clean lawn in the hot sunshine. By the time the last of the washing is laid out, the first can be taken up, washed out and rinsed. This, of course, requires a clean lawn, and cannot be done in the city. Turpentine is injurious to the health and should not be used to any great extent. It may be used in washing machines, however. Be careful not to breathe the fumes of it and see that clothes are particularly well rinsed afterwards. Note. — For cleaning special materials not mentioned above, and further instructions regarding washing, see chapter seven. Washing. 15 Hints on Hanging Clothes. Always have a clean clothesline. It should be taken down after each washing and wiped off with a clean damp cloth before hanging clothes on it again. It is a good plan to have a nail in the cupboard on which the line can be hung when not in use. This keeps it from getting soiled. Clothespins can be kept in the same place. Hang everything on the line wrong side out. This is particularly necessary in cities where soot is so in evidence. Flannels should be hung with the thickest part attached to the line, so the moisture will run from it and the piece dry more quickly. Blankets should be pinned with just enough over the edge to hold them securely. They must be hung the long way of the blanket, so the colors will run down their own lines. Handkerchiefs, small linen pieces, etc., should be just caught, so they will not blow away. Attach securely so nothing will drag when clothes are dry if wind is strong enough to switch them. Table cloths, if hung so the wind can blow them out like a sail, will dry much quicker. Shirts should be hung by the neckband and shoulders, the sleeves being allowed to hang loose. Every housekeeper in a cold climate ought to provide a pair of mittens for hanging out clothes, to be used only for this purpose. Make them of two thicknesses of clean white flannel. Keep them in the clothespin basket where they will be handy. They must be washed often. To Prevent Clothespins From Splitting. Soak in cold water before using the first time. CHAPTER III. BLUING. This chapter is written with the object of helping those who have trouble with any kind of bluing, sug- gesting the only remedy, which is MRS. STEWART'S BLUING. Bluing is made of different materials, such as indigo, analine, ultra-marine or Chinese blue, etc. These are ordinarily insoluble in water, and are therefore, in their original state, most unsatisfactory to use. This is particularly true of the ultra-marine blue, which is the base of the ''ball" or "square" blue so often used. It is also used in some kinds of liquid blue. All of these are insoluble in water and do their work by depositing on the clothes a fine blue powder. Any lady using these blues will find a blue coating on the bottom of the tub when the water is poured off, thus showing the reason why they cause so much trouble and so often spot and streak the clothes. In case the ball or square blue is used, it is necessary to continually stir the blued water, so that this fine powder will not settle to the bottom of the tub or on the clothes, thus spotting or streaking them. AN ANALINE BLUE does not settle, but it can always be told by the fact that it colors the water pur- ple instead of blue, and if too much is used it will give Bluing. 17 the clothes a purplish tint, which is not desirable. BLUING IN STICK FORxM is certain to be unsatis- factory. In the first place it is not economical, the statement of the manufacturers to the contrary not- withstanding. It will not go half as far as a bottle of MRS. STEWART'S BLUING, which can be easily proven by test. The base is generally the ultra-marine blue mentioned, and it never dissolves in the water, but deposits instead a fine blue powder on the clothes. Then, too, one's hands are sure to be soiled, or else when it is hung up, a blue streak will drain down the wall and onto the floor. Anyone who has ever used this style of bluing will tell you that it takes a long time to get the water blue enough, and as one is always very busy on wash-day, this fact alone is enough to decide one against it. THE DRY BLUE, in a pepperbox, is most unde- sirable because it will streak or spot the clothes if not used with great care. As to the SQUARE, OR BALL BLUE, we cannot understand why any woman wants to go to the trouble of wrapping the blue in flannel, taking the chances of getting her hands soiled, as well as streaking and spot- ting the clothes, and making the muss which is neces- sary, particularly on wash-day when one has plenty to do. This blue is not satisfactory and the only reason it has been used by housewives is because they have not known of any better. 18 Laundry Hints. Liquid Bluing. We now come to the consideration of liquid bluing. This is far superior to any other style, but even here there are two kinds : MRS. STEWART'S and others. We will reserve our remarks on MRS. STEWART'S till the last and ponsider the other kinds first. Nearly all liquid bluing except MRS. STEWART'S is put up in second hand ale, beer or catsup bottles. These are gathered by junk dealers from the ash piles, saloons and dumps of the larger cities, and then sold just as they are, without being washed. The man who makes this junk bottle bluing does not wash the bottles either, but fills them up with bluing diluted just as much as possible. We have seen such bottles half full of beer, ashes, etc., but this makes no difference to the manufacturer of this vile stuff, for he has to make it up cheaply. The bluing in these bottles does not amount to much more than the value of the label on the bottle. To prove this take a spoonful or two of MRS. STEWART'S BLUING and put it in a catsup bottle, and then fill the bottle with water. You will find the mixture is as good, if not better, than any of the ale-bottle stuff. This explains why it is often necessary to use half a teacupful of ordinary bluing, when a few drops of MRS. STEWART'S BLUING will do the work better. This junk bottle bluing is sometimes called "cheap," but it does not have even that to recommend it, for it really is far more expensive than T^IRS. STEW- ART'S, which will go as far as eight to ten bottles of this vile stuff. Why any woman who wishes to make Bluing, 19 clothes sweet and clean, can use this dirty bluing is more than we can understand. Why Mrs. Stewart's Bluing Is Superior. We now come to the consideration of MRS. STEW- ART'S BLUING, the ideal and only perfect bluing. This differs from all others in that it does its work perfectly, with no trouble or muss whatever. It does not spot nor streak the clothes nor turn them yellow, but instead, whitens them, and this without injuring in any way. You need never be afraid to use it on the finest material, for it cannot injure it. If too much is used, it can be washed out again and no harm is done. This, in fact, is the only trouble a woman has when first using MRS. STEWART'S BLUING, for on account of its being in more concentrated form than any other, it is not necessary to use nearly as much. By pouring it in the water, a few drops at a time, till the proper shade is obtained, no mistakes can be made. MRS. STEWART'S BLUING is, therefore, much more economical to use than any other and it is owing to this fact that nearly every Chinese laundry uses MRS. STEWART'S BLUING. They buy it not only because it is the best, but more generally because it is the cheapest for them to use. This is one of the best advertisements of MRS. STEWART'S BLUING that we know of. One of the most important good points about MRS. STEWART'S BLUING is the fact that it dissolves entirely even in the hardest water. It does not settle, either in the bottles or in the tub, and so will not spot 20 Laundry Hints. nor streak the clothes. It is not necessary to shake the bottle, but one simply pours out as much as needed. Owing to the shape of the bottle it cannot tip over. Then, too, MRS. STEWART'S contains two ounces more than any other (so-called) high grade bluing, and all things considered, we can see no reason why any lady should care to use any other. Remember, other liquid bluings put up in second-hand ale or beer bottles are filthy" in the extreme and ought not to be used by any lady who wishes to do good work and have really clean clothes when she gets through. Miss Juniata L. Shepperd, one of the foremost au- thorities on laundry work in this country, whose words therefore carry great weight on this subject, says, in her book ''Laundry Work:" "Ultra-marine blue is a fine powder, insoluble in water, and unless the bluing water is frequently and thoroughly stirred and attention given to sides and bottom of the tub, this powder will adhere, and mar the clothes. Aniline blue will not be satisfactory if a bleach has been used which leaves a trace of acid in the rinsing water. Accustom yourself to some brand of bluing that you find good, and then use that, for you will soon be able to judge by the appearance of the water when the right amount has been used, and you will know how to guard against its imperfections. Precautions Necessary in the Use of Bluing. "Do not use too much. The clothes should never have a blue cast. If a liquid bluing is used, pour in a little, stir and try it by putting the hand down in the Bluing. 21 water. When you think it is right, try it with a white cloth before dipping any wearing apparel into it. Wring each article from the rinsing water before put- ting through the bluing water, then dip and wring them one at a time." Why Clothes Become Yellow. Clothes become yellow for a number of reasons, sometimes because not washed or rinsed sufficiently or because dried in the house or long unused. Then, too, it may be an excess of alkali used in softening the water, or water itself which contains impurities which stain the clothes. MRS. STEWART'S BLU- ING will overcome all these troubles, as thousands of the best laundresses of the Northwest testify. CHAPTER IV. STARCHING. All articles required very stiff, such as shirts, collars, cuffs, etc., should be starched in cold water starch, recipe of which is given ; or if a very high polish is desired use Mrs. Stewart's Starch Polish Recipe. They must be very dry so they will absorb the starch readily and the starch must be well rubbed into the article; after which they should be folded in a towel and ironed before becoming dry. They iron more easily by being left folded in the towel some time. Muslins, laces, prints, etc., requiring but little stiffen- ing are best done in hot water starch. They must be dried before ironing so as not to stick to the iron. Be- fore ironing they should be sprinkled with hot water and rolled up tightly until evenly damp. The more closely woven the goods are the less starch they re- quire. Table linen may or may not be starched. If starched it remains clean longer, but it is likely to be worn out sooner. It is best to use hot starch diluted, as linen is closely woven and absorbs a great deal. In washing underlinen, in which case but little starch can be used, you can add a teacupful of stiff boiled starch to each gallon of bluing water. This gives the garments a nice smoothness and gloss, but does not stiffen them perceptibly. Of course MRS. STEW- Starching. ART'S BLUING must be used, otherwise trouble may ensue. Recipe for Cold Water Starch. Two teaspoonfuls starch. One cup cold water. Four drops turpentine. Mix starch with a little of the water, using the fingers to remove lumps, etc., then add the turpentine. The turpentine makes the iron run smoothly. In mak- ing a larger quantity, be careful not to use too much turpentine, as it may make the clothes smell strongly. If turpentine is objected to, make a lather with soap in the starch, but this is likely to scorch when ironing. A small quantity of MRS. STEWART'S BLUING added will make the starch ver}' white. Recipe for Boiled Starch for Stiff Starching. Take four tablespoonfuls starch (if possible, three of corn starch and one of wheat starch) and mix with a little cold water till about the consistency of cream. Now add a pint of boiling water, two teaspoonfuls of kerosene, one teaspoonful lard and a little MRS. STEWART'S BLUING to give the starch a nice white color. Boil about ten minutes, stirring frequent- ly. When ready to use, place the dish of starch in another dish of hot water to keep the starch warm while being used. Mrs. Stewart's Famous Starch Polish Recipe. Into two heaping tablespoonfuls of starch dissolved to the consistency of thin cream, in cold water; slice one and one-half inches of a paraffine candle. Prepare 24 Laundry Hints. in a granite dish, place on a hot stove, stir briskly, and pour in boiling water until it is the consistency of thin syrup. Boil gently, stirring occasionally, for a half hour. Now take the same amount of starch for a second as was used for the first batch, and dissolve in one- fourth pint of cold water. Remove the dish of hot starch from stove, stirring until the scalding heat passes ofif; pour the cold into the hot starch, stirring until well mixed, then strain through cloth into a dish. Set in hot water to keep the starch warm while being used. Put collars and cufifs into the starch, rubbing thoroughly, but never wringing the starch from the article. After starching thoroughly, move the thumb and finger downward ; this removes the loose starch, sticks the plies firmly together, and removes cloudy spots. Starch neck-band the full length, same as bosom. Fold shirts in the usual way, sprinkling body and sleeves, rolling tight. Fold collars and cuffs in heavy towel, thumping them a little and roll up in a dry towel. Commence ironing in twenty or thirty minutes. Before this secure a smooth surface with several layers of fine cloth. Lay collar inside up with the upper edge away from you, remove with fine cloth the loose starch by rubbing until the collar is clear of wrinkle and dampness, then turn it over, operating on the outside in like manner. Now turn it inside up, and lay on a piece of fine muslin, running the fingers over it gently, thus pressing the plies together ; then pass the hot iron over the cloth lightly two or three times. Remove the cloth, turn the article outside up, and operate as before. Starching. 25 Turn again and iron with quite hot iron until you have a smooth surface. Finally turn and finish by ironing and shaping. This system of starching will admit of very hot irons, which will not scorch nor brown the starch. The rule is to use just as hot irons as possible. Iron until per- fectly dry and you have collars that are as hard and solid as a board, and cuffs that are as springy as a saw blade. A little MRS. STEWART'S BLUING added to the starch will make it and the articles on which it is used whiter. Mode of Polishing. Place the bosom, cuff or collar on the board, with upper edge of collar from you, dampen the surface evenly and quickly wdth a cloth, wrung out of cold water; then wath a dr}^ cloth, wipe the article dry quickly. This operation serves to clear the article and gives the work a finer finish. Dampen again as before, immediately placing the polishing iron on the article with heel down at an angle of 45 degrees, moving the iron rapidly with both hands, to and fro and crosswise the article, until you have a beautiful porcelain finish. How to Roll and Shape Collars and Cuffs. Place the standing collar on the board with upper edge from you, face down, move the iron rapidly, and at the same time bring the collar with the other hand over and after the iron with a rolling movement. Lay- down collars are much more difficult to handle, as the work is so firm you cannot turn them without breaking the starch, and sometimes even the linen. To avoid 26 Laundry Hints. this, dampen a narrow space on both sides where the collar is to be turned. Allow a short time for starch to soften, and with thumbs and fingers gradually turn and mould, pressing down with thumbs ; then take the point of polishing iron crosswise and iron down until it is firmly pressed. Turn and roll same as standing collar. Cuffs are treated in the same manner. The polishing iron should be of the usual pattern with a rounded heel. Recipe for Rice Starch. This can be used only for thin sheer materials like muslins, handkerchiefs, etc. Take one-fourth pound rice and cook in one quart water till cooked to a pulp, adding more water as necessary. Now pour on one quart more of hot water and strain through cloth. In using rice starch take one piece at a time, dip in the starch, and if small clap between the hands, which scatters the starch into every part of the cloth. If large hang out for a few minutes and iron when nearly dry. Gum Water for Stiffening. Take one ounce best gum-arabic and one-half pint boiling water; pour water over gum and let stand, stirring frequently, strain through cloth and bottle. This keeps a long time and can be used for stiffening as required. To prevent starch showing on black or dark colored goods add to the starch a little coffee or tea and if to be used on blue goods you can color the starch a deep blue by using plenty of MRS. STEWART'S BLUING. CHAPTER V. IRONING. When sprinkling clothes use warm water as it spreads better and does not spot them. Keep prmts and colored goods away from white things, which they are likely to stain, and do not let them lie any longer than necessary in summer as starched clothes mildew quickly. , i, u u With shirts, dampen bosom, cuffs and collar by rub- bing both sides with damp cloth. Separate collars and cuffs can be dampened and rolled up m damp cloths. Stockings are not sprinkled. A sprmkler with rubber bulb attached can be bought at stores, such as is used for sprinkling plants, etc. This is a con- venience when one cares to go to this expense. Ironing. All articles to be ironed will have a better appear- ance if carefully folded when taken from the Ime Have everything ready when you begin ironing and try the iron on a white cloth before using. Mushns are ironed on the right side, prints, dotted muslins, and embroideries on the wrong side; table linens, doil- ies, etc., on both sides. They should not be too dry or the surface will be rough instead of smooth Have iron very hot for table linen and muslins, and not as warm for prints. Heavy irons can be used for ironmg 28 Laundry Hints. Straight work such as table linen, etc., and light ones for ruffles, embroideries, etc. Iron rapidly in a good lig-ht so as to be sure not to scorch the goods. A slight scorch may be removed by immediately washing the spot over several thicknesses of white cloth. The white cloths absorb the scorch and should be moved frequently. Carefully iron around any buttons or hooks, making as few folds as is necessary. Articles with trimming should be so ironed as to have the trimming on top. After ironing hang articles on clotheshorse till perfectly dry. All articles must be stretched carefully into shape while being ironed. In ironing table linen, it will be necessary to iron one fold down, the center and perhaps one across the width of the cloth. The cloth should now be merely folded (not ironed) for the balance of the necessary folds. This will make it last longer. Some people, instead of folding table linen, have rolls of paper made three inches longer than the width of the cloth, and the cloth is rolled on this as soon as ironed. Table linen should be ironed first on the right side and then on the wrong side. Doilies should be ironed with the threads, and if ironed on the wrong side, over soft padding, the pat- tern will stand out better. In ironing shirts, the neckband, cuffs and the rest of shirt should be done quickly, leaving the bosom until the last. Have the covering on the bosom board elastic rather than hard. Be sure your irons are smooth and well waxed and hot enough for the work required, but not too hot. If yellow streaks appear, Ironing. 29 the iron is dirty, too cold, or not waxed. If the work gives a streak of polish and one of dull, run a piece of damp cheesecloth over the surface, then heat, clean and wax the iron again. Domestic finish on shirts is obtained by rubbing a damp cloth over the highly polished surface, or by passing it an instant over the steam from the tea kettle. Dresses should be ironed, the sleeves and neckband first, then the rest of the body, and last of all the skirt. If the dress has both an upper and a lower skirt, iron the lower one first. Always have near the ironing board a dish of clear cold water, so any spot imperfectly ironed can be easily wet with a soft sponge or fine cloth, thus re- moving any surplus starch and, if necessary, it can be ironed over again. Use cotton holders for irons. Woolen ones are hot to the hand and if scorched, as they so often are, the smell is very disagreeable. Ordinary irons, when heated over gas, must be care- fully wiped before they become more than warm. The hydrogen of the gas unites with the oxygen of the air and condenses in the form of water on the surface of the cold metal, and if it is not wiped off turns to rust. The Ironing Table. This should be firm and steady, covered smoothly with at least two thicknesses of blanket or similar material. On top should be a heavy cotton cloth which can be removed when dirty. Have no seams or patches under the ironing surface. 30 Laundry Hints. The bosom board should be one and one-half feet long and one foot wide, covered the same as the larger board. Irons. The best irons for all around use are the Sad irons with iron handles and steel bottoms, though many- prefer the newer patent styles, with polished bottoms and detachable wood handles. These are indeed easier on the hands and are preferable for some work, but they do not hold the heat as well as the old fashioned kind. There are many irons which burn charcoal or have a heated iron inside, gas irons, electric irons, etc., but these, not being in general use, will not be con- sidered here. When heating irons be careful not to get any dirt, blacking, etc., on them. When ironing rub the iron in salt each time before replacing on fire. On removing from the fire rub the iron on a damp cloth, then quickly on a wax cloth and then on a clean cloth. This will ensure perfect success. When through ironing stand irons on end till cool and put away in a clean dry place. If irons are not to be used again for some time, grease the polished surface with mutton tallow, which prevents rusting. If irons have become rusted, scour the rusty surface with scouring soap, rubbing it on with a piece of flan- nel. If the rust is deep, wipe and rub with a piece of very fine sandpaper and finish by rubbing with emery cloth. Lastly, rub the entire iron with hot soapsuds, wipe dry and set on stove till hot, then put in dry place, away from steam or dampness or any kind. CHAPTER VI. S/ REMOVING STAINS. In removing stains, it should be borne in mind that a great deal of patience is often required, especially if the stains on the articles have been allowed to remain some time. One should also use great caution with them, and no cleaning should be done at night or near a fire or light of any kind as cleaning fluids are usually very volatile and there is great danger of explosion. As some cleaning fluids are often very poisonous, they must be kept away from children and be carefully labeled. Use a pad of clean blotting paper under the material and rub in a circle to prevent any ring form- ing. If a ring is left after using gasoline or benzine, spread French chalk on it and place in the sun. A GOOD CLEANING FLUID for nearly all ma- terials is made of equal parts of ether, ammonia and alcohol. Keep well corked and do not use near a light or fire of any kind. AMMONIA is one of the best of cleaning agents, particularly if used with warm soapsuds. One need not be afraid to use too much. It is particularly good for spots when fresh. SOAP BARK will freshen woolen clothes wonder- fully. Get five cents' worth of soap bark and steep in a quart of water for two hours, then strain through cloth. 32 Laundry Hints. First brush the article and then sponge with the soap bark solution. Afterwards rinse in ammonia and water. Javelle Water. Take one-quarter pound chloride of lime, one ounce sal soda and one quart of boiling water, and mix to- gether. Let dissolve and settle and pour off liquor into bottles. Label "poison" and use with great care, rinsing the articles in clear water as soon as possible. This is injurious to any fabric if left on it long. STAINS AND HOW TO REMOVE THEM. Acid Spots. Spots produced by an acid may be removed by touch- ing with ammonia ; spots produced by an alkali, by moistening with vinegar or tartaric acid. Axle Grease, Machine Oil, Etc. Rub with lard and allow to stand one-half hour be- fore washing, or rub stain with turpentine. Blood Stains. Soak in cold water until stain turns brown, then soak in warm soapsuds, or they may be removed by the application of a thick coating of starch. Use the starch wet, the same as when prepared for laundry work. Coffee, Tea, Chocolate or Fruit Stains. Stretch stained portion over bowl and pour boiling water on it from a height so as to strike the cloth with force. If stain does not immediately disappear, rub between the hands and pour boiling water on it again. With tea or chocolate it will aid the action of the water to sprinkle borax over the stain and soak first Removing Stains. in cold water, or tea stains may be soaked first in glycerine, and then use boiling water as directed. Fruit Stains. May be removed same as coffee stains, but if old and set in the cloth, nothing short of some bleaching ma- terial will remove them. Either oxalic acid or javelle water is used. Take a teaspoonful oxalic acid to a bowl of warm water and in another bowl of water one teaspoonful concentrated ammonia. After using boil- ing water as directed for coffee stains, dip in acid water and rub till stain disappears. Then rinse in ammonia water and rinse thoroughly in clear water. Use these with great care and rinse well as they are very powerful acids. Peach Stains. Rub alcohol into stain and allow to evaporate. Re- peat operation several times before using hot water, as directed for coffee stains. Fruit stains can often be removed from the hands by rubbing them with raw tomatoes and salt, or lemon juice and salt. Glue. Rub well with vinegar on a cloth. Grass Stains. If not on delicate colors, ammonia and water if ap- plied at once, will remove them, or wash in alcohol or chloroform, or saturate with molasses. Rub it in well and then wash as usual. Ink. As soon as spilled throw salt on it or soak with blotting paper to absorb as much as possible. If on 34 Laundry Hints. white goods wash in lemon juice and salt, or vinegar and salt. If on colored goods, wash in milk, or use javelle water, or oxalic acid and ammonia water, but this last may remove the color. Copying ink is almost impossible to remove. Purple Ink. Absorb with blotting paper or salt, then rub with equal parts alcohol and glycerine. Ink on fingers can be instantly removed by a little ammonia. After using rinse the hands in clear water. To remove ink from rosewood or mahogany, put six drops spirits of nitre in a spoonful of water. Touch the stain with a feather wet in this. As soon as ink disappears, wash off with clean cloth and cold water. If spot does not immediately disappear make mixture stronger but do not forget to w^ash it ofif immediately each time. Iodine. Soak in choloroform or ether till iodine is dissolved and disappears. Iron Rust. Soak in lemon juice and salt and lay in sun. If not removed repeat the process, or make paste of lemon juice, starch and salt, and let lie in sun. Or take one teaspoonful hydrochloric acid to two teaspoonfuls warm water. As soon as stain is gone rinse thorough- ly. Either of the latter, however, will take out the color of the goods. Kerosene. Cover stain with a layer of hot Fuller's earth for two hours and then brush ofif. Removing Stains. 35 Lamp Black. Wet with kerosene and wash with soap and water. Medicine Stains. Soak in alcohol. Mildew. Remove when fresh if possible, as this is extremely difficult to remove. Soak in strong lemon juice and salt; or vinegar and salt, and let lie in the sunshine; or use javelle water, though this is likely to leave a hole after removing the mildew, especially if not rinsed thoroughly. Milk or Cream. Wash in cold water and then soap thoroughly. Mucus Stains. Soak in ammonia water and wash in cold water and soap; afterwards boil. Paint, Fresh. Wash at once with soap and soft water, but if goods cannot be washed, soak in kerosene and then wash with benzine or naphtha. Paint. Rub with benzine or turpentine, or if light delicate colors, use chloroform or naphtha. All these should be used with extreme care, away from fire or artificial light of any kind. To prevent a ring showing afterwards take a clean cloth, wet with the liquid used, and rub from the outside towards the center. It is said that wet paint on clothing may be rubbed by another piece of the same material and the stain will immediately disappear. Laundry Hints. Perspiration. Soak in strong soap suds and let lie in sunshine for several days, or use javelle water, on Avhite goods only. Scorch. Hang in sunlight. (Also see Chapter on Ironing.) Take a peeled onion and pound to extract juice. Add to this two ounces of soda, one-half pint of vinegar and two ounces of Fuller's earth. Boil 10 minutes, strain through cloth and bottle. Spread some on scorched part and let dry, repeating process if necessary, till scorch disappears. A slight scorch may often be re- moved by hanging in bright sunlight. Tar. Remove same as paint. Varnish. Wet stain with turpentine and let it dissolve a mo- ment, sponge off with clean cloth. If delicate colors, use chloroform. Vaseline Stains. Soap and water is often all that is necessary, but stain cannot be removed after boiling. If obstinate, wash with turpentine. Wax or Tallow. Scrape off as much as possible, then place blotting paper over spot and quickly iron with hot iron. This melts wax and causes it to be absorbed by blotting paper. Remove paper quickly after ironing. If any color is left, owing to color in wax, use alcohol to re- move same. Wine Stains. Cover with damp salt and place out doors in sun and dew, or after leaving salt on stain for a time, use boil- ing water (or boiling milk) same as for coffee stains. CHAPTER VII. CLEANING SPECIAL MATERIALS. To Set Colors. Lavender and other delicate colors. Dissolve one ounce sugar of lead in one gallon of water, soak several hours before washing. To Brighten Blues. Make a very strong bluing water of MRS. STEW- ART'S BLUING. Rinse and dry quickly. To Set Blacks, Reds, Pinks, Etc. Soak in a strong solution of salt and water. A little ox gall in the water will help keep weak colors bright. To Clean Alpaca. Sponge with strained coffee and iron on the wrong side, having black cambric under the goods. To Wash Alpaca. Put goods in boiler half full of cold rain water, and let boil three minutes. Have ready a pail of dark bluing water (made of MRS. STEWART'S BLUING), place goods in this after wringing out of boiling water. Let remain in bluing one-half hour; wring and iron while damp. Babies' Clothes. Babies' clothes, when washed, should be done by themselves, and if necessarv use borax, but not soda or 38 Laundry Hints. washing powder, as these irritate the skin. Do not starch stiffly, and be sure to rinse well. To Wash Chamois. Wash in tepid water same as woolens and rub well. Pull into shape as it dries, and rub between the hands occasionally to keep soft. How to Clean Corsets. Take out the steels at front and sides, then scrub 1^- thoroughly with tepid or cold lather of white castile soap, using a very small scrubbing brush. Do not lay them in water. When quite clean let cold water run on them freely from the spigot to rinse out the soap thor- oughly. Dry in a cool place without ironing, after pull- ing lengthwise till they are straight and shapely. To Make Old Crepe Look Like New. A^ Pass the crepe to and fro several times through the steam from teakettle. Dish Cloths. y No articles in kitchen use are so likely to be neg- lected and abused as the dish-cloths and dish towels; and in washing these, ammonia, if properly used, is a greater comfort than anywhere else. Put a teaspoonful into the water in which these cloths are or should be washed every day, rub soap on the towels. Put them in the water ; let them stand a half hour or so, then rub them out thoroughly, rinse faithfully, and dry out doors in clear air and sun, and dish cloths and towels will never look gray and dingy, — a perpetual discomfort to all housekeepers. To Wash Doilies. \^' Make a suds of soft water and Ivory soap, or use Cleaning Special Materials. borax instead of soap (one tablespoonful dissolved in a little hot water to each gallon of water). Wash doilies carefully, kneading and punching, rinse well and roll in a towel to prevent colors staining other parts of the doily. In Washing Laces. Use castile soap and soft water. Make a strong suds and let stand, squeeze and punch but do not rub or pull, rinse well and stiffen with rice starch or sugar. White lace is improved with a little MRS. STEWART'S BLUING. After this, place on a clean window pane, pulling out each point as it should be. When necessary to iron lace use moderately warm iron and iron on the wrong side on soft ironing board. Black Lace. To stiffen dip in milk and iron between black cloths. To clean, steep in strong tea and rinse ; adding to the last water one teaspoonful gum arabic or some sugar. Iron through papers or black cloth. Cleaning Lace. Cream colored Spanish lace can be cleaned and made to look like new by rubbing it in dry flour; rub as if you were washing in water. Then take it out doors and shake all the flour out; if not perfectly clean, re- peat the rubbing in a little more clean flour. The flour must be very thoroughly shaken from the lace, or the result will be far from satisfactory. White knitted hoods can be cleaned in this way ; babies' socks also, if only slightly soiled. Lace Curtains. Shake curtains to remove as much dust as possible 40 Laundry Hints. / and make a note of the size before wetting them. Put to soak in suds of castile soap and tepid water. Knead and squeeze and when water is soiled put in another tub of suds. Put in boiler and boil a few minutes, then rinse twice and blue with MRS. STEWART'S BLU- ING if white, or if colored use coffee, tea or saffron in- stead of bluing. Wring in wringer as dry as possible and dip in starch. Now place a clean sheet on the floor and pin the curtains carefully on same, making sure that the size is the same as before. Several curtains may be pinned at the same time, one above the other. By far the best way, however, is to get a pair of curtain stretchers to dry the curtains on. These can be bought at most stores, or one can easily make them. Black Percale or Print Dresses. That have figures of white in them, may be washed by putting in boiling suds after other clothes have been removed. Boil ten minutes, cool the suds, rub quickly and rinse in luke-warm water. Now rinse thoroughly in very blue water made of MRS. STEW- ART'S BLUING, and then starch with coffee starch. To Clean Ribbons. Dissolve white soap in boiling water; when cool enough to bear the hand pass the ribbons through it, rubbing gently so as not to injure the texture, rinse through lukewarm water and pin on a board to dry. If colors are reds or yellows add a few drops of oil of vitriol to the rinsing water. If color is bright scarlet, add to the rinsing water a few drops of muriate of tin. To Wash a Silk Dress. Rip it apart and shake free from dust. Prepare two Cleaning Special Materials. 41 tubs of warm soft water; make a suds of gall soap in one tub and use the other to rinse in. Wash one piece at a time ; wring gently, rinse, wring again, shake and iron with hot iron on what will be the wrong side. It is better to change to new water to rinse in when about half done, making suds in the old rinsing water. In washing silks, if colored, first soak in salt water to set the colors, then wash with a mild soap and tepid water. If white silk it will become yellow unless a little MRS. STEWART'S BLUING is used in the water. The silk should be wrung in a wringer and ironed as soon as dry enough. Do not let it lie wet, as this will make colors run. Iron on wrong side with moderately hot iron. To Remove Shine From Silk Dresses, Etc. A little ammonia in a few spoonfuls of alcohol is excellent to sponge silk dresses that have grown shiny \^ or rusty, as well as to take out spots. A black silk in particular becomes almost like new when so sponged. Spots on Towels and Hosiery. Spots on towels and hosiery will disappear with little trouble if a little ammonia is put into enough water to soak the articles, and they are left in it an hour or two before washing; and if a cupful is put into the water in which white clothes are soaked the night before washing, the ease with which the articles can be washed, and their great whiteness and clearness when dried will be very gratifying. To Restore Velvet. When velvet gets crushed from pressure hold the ^ part over a basin of hot water. The ''pile" of the velvet will soon rise and be like new. CHAPTER VIII. MISCELLANEOUS HOUSEHOLD RECIPES. To Clean Brooms. About once in ten days thoroughly wash the carpet broom with hot soap suds, shake till nearly dry and /^ hang where it will dry quickly. By doing this better work can be done with the broom and it will last longer. To Clean Carpets With Seafoam. Dissolve one cup borax in one quart hot water, and add two ounces of glycerine. When tepid add one pound castile soap, previously dissolved in four quarts of hot water, also eight ounces of ammonia and two V ounces of ether. Use a stiff brush dipped in this so- lution, rubbing from the outside towards the center to prevent a ring. To Whiten Celluloid Collars and Cuffs. Use cream of tartar with a little water. To Clean Coffee and Tea Pots. These, when they become musty, may be cleaned and sweetened by having a quantity of wood ashes placed in them and then filled with cold water. Place on stove to heat gradually and boil a short time, after which let cool and then the inside must be carefully scrubbed with a brush. Scald several times. If wood ashes can- not be obtained use baking soda. y Miscellaneous Household Recipes. 43 To Clean Feathers. Cover the feathers with a paste made of pipe-clay and water, rubbing them one way only. When quite dry, shake off all the powder and curl with a knife. Grebe feathers may be washed with white soap in soft water. When Scrubbing Floors. Use plenty of clean, cold water and soap, and scrub with the grain of the wood, not round and round. Do not use soda. To Keep Flies Off Gilt Frames. Boil three or four onions in a pint of water and apply with a soft brush. To Brighten Gilt Frames. Take sufficient flour of sulphur to give a golden tinge to about one and one-half pints of water, and in this boil four or five bruised onions, or garlic, which will answer the same purpose. Strain off the liquid, and with it, when cold, wash, with soft brush, any gilding which re- quires restoring, and when dry it will come out as bright as new work. Furniture Polish. Equal quantities of linseed oil, turpentine, vinegar, and spirits of wine make an excellent polish. When used, shake the mixture well, and rub on the furniture with a piece of linen rag, then polish with a clean dus- ter. Vinegar and oil, rubbed in with flannel, and the furniture rubbed with a clean duster, produces a very good polish. To Clean Furs. Furs may be cleaned with warm bran rubbed thor- oughly into the fur which is then shaken and brushed. 44 Laundry Hints, For Washing Glass and Glassware. For washing windows, looking-glasses, etc., a little ammonia in the water saves much labor, aside from giv- ing a better polish than anything else ; and for general housecleaning it removes dirt, smoke and grease most ^ effectually. Put half a teaspoonful into clear water to wash tumblers or glass of any kind, rinse and dry well, and they will be beautifully clear. To Clean Ivory Articles. Make a paste of water, sawdust and a few drops of V lemon juice. Apply thickly and let dry, after which brush ofif, when the ivory w^ill be as clean as when new. To Clean Hair Brushes. Do not use soap, but instead a tablespoonful of am- \^. monia in bowl of water. Dip up and down till brushes are clean, rinse thoroughly and dry with brushes down. To Cleanse the Inside of Jars. This can be done in a few minutes by filling the jars with hot water (it need not be scalding hot), and then stirring in a teaspoonful or more of baking soda. ^ Shake well, then empty the jar at once, and if any of the former odor remains about it, fill again with water and soda; shake well, and rinse out in cold water. To Clean Kid Gloves. Rub with very slightly damp bread-crumbs. If not effectual, scrape upon them dry Fuller's earth, or French chalk, when on the hands, and rub them quickly V together in all directions. Do this several times. Or put gloves of a light color on the hands and wash the hands in a basin of ammonia. Some gloves may be washed in a strong lather made of soft soap and warm IL.oFC. V Miscellaneous Household Recipes. 45 water or milk ; or wash with rice pulp ; or sponge them well with turpentine, and hang them in a warm place or where there is a current of air, when all smell of turpen- tine will be removed. To Clean Mica. Mica in stoves, when smoked, is readily cleaned by taking it out and thoroughly washing with vinegar a little diluted. If black does come off at once, let it soak a little. To Prevent Mildew. In closets or damp places put a jar of quicklime in the closet and it will absorl) all the dampness. To Remove Odor of Perspiration. Procure some compound spirits of ammonia, and place two tablespoonfuls in a basin of water. Washing the face, hands, and arms with this leaves the skin as clean, sweet and fresh as one could wish. The wash is perfectly harmless and very cheap. It is recommended on the authority of an experienced physician. To Remove Putty. A red-hot iron will soften putty so that it can be eas- ily removed. Rust on Stoves. A thin coating of three parts lard melted with one . , part rosin applied to stoves and grates, will prevent rusting in summer. For Washing Silver and Silverware. For washing silver, put half a teaspoonful ammonia , into the suds ; have the water hot ; wash quickly, using V^ a small brush, rinse in hot water, and dry with clean linen towel, then rub very dry with a chamois skin. i^ 46 Laundry Hints. Washed in this manner, silver becomes very brilliant, requires no polishing with any of the powders or whit- ing usually employed, and does not wear out. Silver- plate, jewelry and door-plates can be beautifully cleaned and made to look like new by moistening a soft cloth or chamois skin in a weak preparation of am- monia water, and' rubbing the articles with it. Salt will remove ^%% stains on silver. For Cleaning Jewelry. For cleaning jewelry there is nothing better than am- monia and water. If very dull or dirty rub a little soap on a soft brush and brush them in this wash, rinse in cold water, dry first in an old handkerchief, and then rub with chamois skin. Their freshness and brilliancy when thus cleaned cannot be surpassed by any com- pound used by jewelers. / To Cleanse a Sponge. Rub a fresh lemon well into a soured sponge and rinse thoroughly in luke-warm water. This will make \^it as sweet as when new. To Clean Straw Hats. Wash in warm soap suds and rinse, then place a little oxalic acid in a pan and pour on enough hot water to cover the hat. After five minutes the hat may be re- moved and dried in the sun, and stiffened with a mix- ture of gutta percha and ether. / To Clean Wash Boilers. / W^hen a little rusty wash with milk, or grease with ' lard. It is a better plan to prevent rust, however, by thoroughly drying the boiler before putting it away for the week. Miscellaneous Household Recipes. 47 Cleaning White Paint. Spirits of ammonia, used in sufficient quantity to soften the water, and ordinary hard soap, will make the paint look white and clean with half the effort of any other method ever tried. Care should be taken not to have too much ammonia, or the paint will be injured. To Polish Windows. A soft cloth wet in alcohol is excellent to wipe off French plate-glass and mirrors and to keep frost off windows. To Remove Paint From Window Glass. Rub with baking soda or turpentine. Kalsomine. For plain white use one pound white glue, twenty pounds English whiting; and a little MRS. STEW- ART'S BLUING; dissolve glue by boiling in about three pints of water ; dissolve whiting and bluing with hot water, make the consistency of thick batter; then add glue and one cup soft soap. Dissolve a piece of alum the size of a hen's tgg, add and mix the whole thoroughly. Let it cool before using. If too thick to spread nicely add more water till it spreads easily. For blue tints add a little more MRS. STEWART'S BLU- ING, and for lavender a little Venetian red. For peach-blow use red in white alone. The above quan- tity is enough to cover four ceilings, sixteen feet square with two coats, and will not rub off. Recipe for Cleaning Wall Paper or Kalsomine. Making old wall paper look as good as new. Take 10 pounds rye flour, 2 pounds salt, 1 pound sal soda, 48 Laundry Hints. and a small quantity of MRS. STEWART'S BLUING to whiten it. The above to be mixed in one gallon of hot soft water. Stir until very thick, then cook and stir for one-half hour. When cool take a piece and rub over the wall or ceiling, the same as with a cloth. This recipe makes enough to clean 20 rooms, average size 18x20. To Make Whitewash. Put some freshly burned quicklime in a pail with suf- ficient water to cover it. Then add one pint boiled lin- seed oil to each gallon of the mixture, and a little MRS. STEWART'S BLUING to make it a pure white. Thin witfi water till the proper consistency, and apply with a bruch. Do not let the brush remain in the pail as it destroys the bristles in time. This whitewash will not rub oiif easily and is a great purifier as well. Other Uses for Bluing. It is a fact not generally known that MRS. STEW- ART'S BLUING can be used with great success in washing white horses. Put a little in a pail of water and then, after washing as usual with soap, rinse with clear water and then sponge with the bluing water. It can, of course, be used for washing white dogs, cats, and other pets. Bluing is also used by paper manufacturers to make very white paper, and in many other ways, but its principal use is in the laundry for whitening clothes, and it is here that MRS. STEWART'S BLUING ex- cels all others. AHvays use MRS. STEWART'S BLUING. LIBRPRY OF CONGRESS ■M 014 149 826 5 •