LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 19!' mm' llliiliiiiiiiiriiiiiiii' 016 092 993 5< '\ Conservation Resources Lig-Free® Type I Ph 8.5. Buffered J- » F 595 .B56 cmc (j< Yi" ^ ;M»bai:^«»n>. S'-t'hl'^ A TRIP TO THE PACIFIC COAST BY AUTOMOBILE ACROSS THE CONTINENT CAMPING ON THE WAY liy William Charles Bettis ^ C© P M Q, CO 1-Y RIGHT, 1'122 BY WILLIAM CHARLES BETTIS ALL RIGHTS RESERVED MAR I3IB22 d ©"JABoSOSS ,. o 1/ IV, 4 A Trip to the Pacific Coast by Automobile Camping on the Way E^VERY motorist with rich red -^ blood flowing through his veins, when he has a few iiours to spare, ^ heads for the countiy. The great open stretclies of field ; the soothing murmur of breezes passing through God's Temples — the woods; the gleaming stream and expansive lake; all bathed in golden sunshine, appeals to the primitive in man, as notiiing else can do. He is eternally seeking out new roads. Places he has never before seen, because the spirit of adven- ture predominates and down deep in his innermost heart he dreams of some dav starting for the great "Golden West." Everyone is familiar with the slogan "See America First." Let me add : See our great northwest and see it from an automobile if possi- ble. If not, see it from the platform of an observation car. Tliere is notiiing in Europe so impressive as our "Wonderland of the World." The odd, startling, beautiful things you can see in our National Parks, Yellowstone, Glacier, Mount Rainier. Yosemite, the Grand Can- yon of Arizona, and the splendid Forest Reserves, cannot be dupli- cated anywhere in the world. AMONr: THE YKLLOW PINES FOR two years, the \v rite r, contem- plating a trip to the Pacific Coast by motor, camping on the way, used every means at his command to secure authentic, truthful in- formation covering roadconditions, grades, c a m p i n g grounds, etc.. but with- out success. So, real- izing that thousands of motorists who are p 1 a n n i n g the trip would like to know tlie truth of these things before starting, I have with the collaboration of Mrs. Bettis, made note of them, and hope tlie experience herein set forth will prove of great intei'fest and as- sistance to all who are anticipating the tour. Before going into the details, I wish to state positively, that any average driver, ' whether man or w6- vARiED ARE THE SCENES AS YOU TRAVEL ALONG man, should not fear that they will be unable to pilot their car from coast to coast. Of course there are all kinds of roads, good, bad and indifferent; you find those conditions everywhere, but on this trip I am glad to say, there is much more good than bad road. There was an enormous amount of construction taking place in 1921, and that necessitated a great number of detours, but the summer of 1922 will find these stretches of new road open to traffic. If you stay on the main highways there is no danger of losing your way, because they are carefully marked. Even tlie detours are carded at every turn. Don't let mountains freighten you ; as a rule, mountain roads are good and absolutely safe. True, there are exceptions, but if you use care and good judgment you need have no fear. After you have become accustomed to mountain driving, you will enjoy scaling the dizzy heights and gliding down tlie opposite side, but don't depend on the brakes to hold you back, go down on compression ; start out in first if in doubt, and then slip into second if the lull is not too steep, otherwise you will burn out the brake linings and no telling' what may happen. Another thing 1 want to caution the novice about: When you are new at the game of mountain driving, and negotiating a road that is a mere shelf; a sheer wall hundreds of feet high on one side, and a drop of hun- dreds of feet on the other, DON'T LOOK DOWN. Keep your eyes glued to the road. LOOK STKAIGHT AHEAD. Many motorists have told me they would like to make the trip but were afraid of mechanical troubles, breakage, etc. That should not deter anyone, as there are garages every few miles, and parts for most American cars can be had at a few hours' notice. Again, if a fellow should have trouble that he could not handle, he would have plenty of help in a few minutes, and a tow to the next town if necessary. There are tire, gasoline and oil service stations everywhere ; even out in the country along the high- ways. JVIany people carry an extra supply of gas, oil and water, but I do not consider it necessary. It is just as cheap to travel with a full tank of gas as a partially filled one, so stop often and fill the tank, and put in oil and water. Many women make the trip without a man in the party. Changing tires, taking care of the motor, and putting up and tearing down camp. If you would like a summer of rare enjoyment, get proper equipment and start for the west. You will never regret it. 'i-'-^' A SHELF F{0AU EQUIPMENT Proper equipment is a very necessary adjunct to a trip of this kind, and if you want to travel in comfort mentally and physically, I suggest the following: See tiiat your motor and all mechanical and working parts of the car are in perfect condition and tlioroughly oiled and greased. Have all tires in first-class condition, and carry at least two extras on rims and inflated. Two good inner tubes, carefully wrapped so they will not chafe, some patches and cement, and several inner and outer boots. You may never need the extra tubes, patches and boots, but it is safer to have them, i^'or example: On one of the worst pieces of road I found on the entire trip, high up on a mountain plateau, twenty miles to the next town, a rear tire blew out, and while I was changing that, a front one went down due to puncture. This necessitated the use of both my extras. Fortunately I had no further trouble covering the twenty miles, and arrived in Superior, Montana, about four-thirty in the afternoon. This is a very small place, and as there was no tire large enough for my car in the town, the dealer wired Spokane, one hundred and fifty miles west, for one. Although it was after five o'clock when the telegram was sent, the casing and inner tube was on the station platform at four o'clock in the morning. So you see there is not much danger of delay on the road. Be sure your tool box has a full supply of wrenches, files, a hammer, pair of pliers, different sizes of bolts, nuts and cotter pins, a roll of tape, a spool of soft iron wire, an extra piece of electric, and all the odds and ends that careful drivers always have on hand for emergencies. A good pump, two jacks, a can of grease and a set of chains with extra cross chains and links and a steel cable for towing. Don't neglect any of these things, they may be needed at any time. I did not have my chains out of the bag the whole trip; how- ever that was just good fortune. Before you start get a piece of 4 x 4 ten inches long, bore a hole in one end and pass a rope through for a handle, and have this ready to block a wheel if you should have to stop on a grade and get out of your seat. Tiiis is very important as there are many places you will be unable to find a rock or stick for that puiiwse, if you sliould need one. Be sure to keep your brakes in perfect condition and working order, but don't depend on the emergency brake to liold tlie car on a steep grade — something might happen. Clothing and camping equipment are of utmost importance, and should be selected with great care. Our ignorance regarding those things at tl-tf beginning of the trip, caused us a great deal of annoyance and trouble. We started with at least three times as much clothing and camp equipment as we needed, and had to ship some of it by freight to the coast. In tlie first place, don't take fine clothes, you won't need them. Even if you do want to stop at a iiotel occasionally, or drop into a high-class cafe for dinner, you will find a lot of other tourists dressed as you should be — in khaki. Kiiaki shirts and trousers. You say, "what do the women wear?" The same tiling, of course. Nearly all the ladies dress in khaki shirts and trousers, and you see them on th streets of every western town and city during the toui'ing season. Take as little clothing as possible to keep clean and comfortable and remember this, there are camping places provided by nearly every town and hamlet west of Chicago, and many are equipped with a laundry, shower baths, and kitchen. So it is an easy matter to keep enough linen clean for comfort. In the selection of camp e(iuipment, two tilings should be kept in mind — space and weight. Select tlie things that will pack into the smallest space and at the same time weigh the least. Cups, plates, kettles, coffee pot, and skillets with folding handles; all of which nest together in a small package, are the best. Build a cupboard about three feet high and three wide, the depth of the foot board. Put in shelves and compartments, and enclose with a drop door, and bolt to the foot board, and you have a good pantry and table combined. This should be carefully made and the whole tiling covered with a water-proof and dust-proof bag while on the road. In selecting a tent remember this. Can- vas is bulky and heavy. Some is water-proof, some is not. \Miite canvas lets light through, and if you are camped near street or park lights may prevent you getting a good night's rest — and that is very essential while tour- ing. In my opinion khaki is by far the best. Get a very light grade, and one that is guar- anteed water-proof. There are many styles of tourists' tents offered the motorist, the prices of which range from $25.00 up. Beds and bedding are also of utmost importance. Some people prefer sleeping on the gi-ound and use a blanket or air mattress, many use folding cots, but the most elaborate outfit I have seen is a double deck Pullman berth arrangement manufactured by F. 0. Berg Co., Spokane, Wash., I want you to profit by my mistakes, therefore I am going into considerable detail pals regarding equipment, that in my opinion willgive you the most comfort for the least work. Before starting on this trip, I had had constructed to my order, a big, heavy, very elaborate, two-wheel ti'ailer with two full sized bed springs that opened out over each side, and a kitchen, pantry, refrigerator and tool compartment. In addition to all this, we carried mattresses, linens, blankets, rugs, cooking utensils, groceries, ice, a folding table, two folding- cots, six camp chairs, a knock-down wood stove, a gasoline stove and a lot of tools, a heavy canvas tent, 12 x 14 feet, a fly 12 x 16 feet, a big ground cloth, and many yards of mosquito netting. The whole thing weighed about 1,500 pounds; and I intended to tow that to the coast. It was a dandy outfit, no doubt about that, and comfortable too; but at St. Paul I put it in storage and had a side tent made to take its place. This tent was 7x9 feet, rear wall 3 feet high, the other end fitted to the car — which was a closed one. The roof extended over the top of the car and down on the opposite side far enough to cover the windows. This job was snake and insect proof. By that I mean the floor was sewed in and came up over the mud guards and foot board of the car on the tent side. We used cots and felt absolutely safe at night. But a sewed-in floor has its disadvantages, the worst of which is to keep it clean. If you want a snake-proof tent, have a sod cloth sewed all around tlie bottom and use a loose ground clotli, then you can have it laundried. When we arrived in Spokane and I saw the Pullman berth tent made by the Berg Company. I purchased one and we used it for the remainder of the trip. This outfit is very complete. All the canvas including the berths, and the jointed poles, pack securely in a box 12x12x48 inches, and can be carried on the foot board of the car. The box which is equipped with fold- ing legs can then be used as a table. I want you to profit by this experience also. We had lots of wool blankets to sleep on, and cover with, and got along nicely till we entered South Dakota. There the nights began to get quite cool, and the furtlier west we went, each succeeding night, due to the ever- increasing altitude, was colder. We purcliased more blankets, but could not keep warm. We look back upon our nights on the heights of Yellow- stone Park with liorror. We went to bed with our clothes and shoes on and still suffered from the cold so much tliat we had to get up and go out and build a bonfire to get warm. One day in desperation I told an old mountain traveler our troubles and asked him if he was cold at night. He said "no, I am always perfectly com- fortable." Then lie asked me what we slept on, and wiien I told him cots, with blankets under and over us, lie laughed, and re- plied, "you can't sleep warm tliat way, try sleeping on the ground as I do, or if you must liave a cot, get a pad of eiderdown, or one com- posed of sheep's hide, paper and wool ; the trouble is you get cold from underneath." And he was right. I am sure he laughed at me for being- such a tenderfoot. If you decide to take the trip, and I hope you will, because 1 know you will geta lot of enjoyment and good health out of it, START RIGHT. ALLEN CAR AND TRAILER THE TRIP We began our long trip to the Pacific Coast at To- ledo, Ohio, on the morning of May 15th, 1921. I drove a big roomy, seven- passenger 1919 Willys-Knight sedan, which had a record of only 8,256 miles — not enough to break in a Knight motor. My son at tlie wheel of a little Allen pulled tlie trailer. We stopped at a gas station and had the tanks filled at 25c per gallon, and headed out Bancroft street for the Golden West. We passed tlirough Bryan and Kendall ville and just before entering iMishawaka saw a sign by the side of the road reading FREE CAMPING GROUND at Pottawatomie Park. We made inquiry at Mishawaka and were told tlie park was just a short distance west, and that it belonged to South Bend, Indiana. We located it without any trouble and drove into a beautiful grove and found every facility for campers, including water, stoves and fii'e wood. This was our first camp, and it took only a few minutes to turn the trailer into a place of abode, and when that was accomplished it cer- tainly was comfortable. We started a wood fire and broiled a nice juicy steak. Living out-of-doors! \\'e had heard a great deal, and read much about it, but this was our first experience. That evening after dinner, we had a caller. A fine big Airdale came into camp and made himself at home. We stayed here several days and tried to find the owner of the dog, with- out success, so when we headed west again, liad a new member in the family. Gasoline in Mishawaka was 22V-2C per gallon. Our next stop was at LaPorte, Ind., where we camped for several days in their beautiful City Park. From LaPorte we went to Deep River, a fishing resort about six miles south of Gary, Ind. Here we found a fine natural grove only partially equipped for campers, and as it was a privately owned and operated resort, were charged $2.00 for a week's stay and fishing. Fishing, lots of it, but no fish. They told us we were "two days late." That up to that time fish- ing had been good. Of course we did not doubt it, and left there in hopes of finding a place somewhere in tlie land of the "setting sun" where we would not be — "two days late." I forgot to mention that there were plenty of snakes at Deep River camping ground, and I am sure there is no one in the world more afraid of them, so I was not sorry to leave. Hammond, Ind., was our next stop, and we furnished the natives con- siderable amusement when we asked for a place to camp. However, I called up Mayor Brown and asked permission to camp in Water Works Park on Lake Michigan, and was allowed to do so. This was a dandy place, with a fine bathing beach and good fishing. The roads so far have been very good. Gasoline now 22.6c. At South Bend I mailed a letter to the Park Commissioners of Chicago, CAMP AT HAMMOND, IND, inclosing a self - addressed stamped envelope, asking if they had a camping place for tourists. Evidently the whole thing was thrown into the waste basket, as I never received a reply; therefore several merchants missed getting about one luindred dollars of my money. Of course, that is not much to Chicago mer- chants, but if tourists — and there are many thousands on the road every year — were treated with a little courtesy and provided with a place to camp, in the aggregate the amount of money spent by them in one season would make a handsome sum — even in Chicago. 1 wonder why the cities east of Chicago liave not awakened to the possibilities of increasing their trade by holding out the inducement of a place to camp for a few days, as have the towns and cities west of that meti'opolis. Nearly every town and liamlet of the west has a park to accommodate automobile tourists who have a camping outfit, and nowadays nearly every tourist car carries one. 1 have seen a hundred or more cars in a single camp, and every car carried an average of four passengers. These people have to be fed, they buy more or less of all the necessities of life; then there are tires, and the gasoline and oil that every car must have. All this means a lot of money spent along the route. While most camp grounds are operated by the municipalities where they are located, there are quite a large number of privately owned and operated grounds also. As a rule all municipal grounds are free to tourists. Privately owned parks charge 25c or 50c per day. There is one park in California that was operated b.\' the Chamber of Commerce this summer that made over i?8,000.00 profit; and they charged only a nominal admission fee. So you see the possibilities are practically unlimited. A few of the parks we visited this summer were brand new and a little crude. Next year those same camping grounds will blossom forth with everything modern, including iiot and cold shower baths, laundries and kitchens. Many of the western camp grounds liave kitchens equipped with elec- tric stoves, and laundries with electric irons. After several very pleasant days at Hammond, we started on a beauti- ful morning for Milwaukee. It is a very short distance from Hammond to the outskirts of Chicago. We had been told to avoid the Boulevards and Parks because of the trailer, so we skirted Jackson Park, but took a chance at Michigan Avenue. Policemen said nothing, so on down through the TYPICAL SCENES ALONG THE NATIONAL PARKS HIGHWAY heart of the city we went on this noted thoroughfare, crossed the river and passed directly through Lincohi Park to Sheridan Road. The road from Chicago to Milwaukee is fair. There were a few bad stretches, and one one of these we had tlie misfortune to break the tongue of the trailer. Tlie nearest town was about four miles, so we went to a farm house and asked the owner if he had a piece of timber suitable for our purpose. He found just wliat we wanted and charged us only fifty cents for it. We had to unload everything carried on the trailer. The dust in the road was very deep, and the thermometer stood at 90 degrees in the shade; so it was some job to remove the broken tongue, fit and put in place the new one, and reload the trailer: but it was completed in three hours and we were on oui' way again. By this time it was nearly sundown, so we decided to find a suitabb place and camp for the night. We drove into a big field and put the tent up on the shore of a small stream, had a good dinner, caught a mess of fish for breakfast, and went to bed — but not to sleep — because the farmer that owned that field, although he charged us a dollar for the privilege of camping there, turned a big drove of cattle loose in it. Cows are curious ani- mals, and they wanted to know all about this Strange affair on their private pre- serve, so they started an investigation. Two of them began to fight over a pan of potato pealings that had been carelessly left outside, got tangled up in the guy ropes, and nearly tore the MARYsviLLE. CALIFORNIA j-g^t down before we could chase them away. We had to stand guard nearly all night to protect our property. However those were eastern cattle and, from a story told me a few weeks later by a tourist on his way east, I have come to the conclusion they are not as courteous as the western members of their family. This man said, "he camped on the open prairie one night, and when he woke up in the morning there were hundreds of cattle all around. They had formed a circle of which lie was the center, and all stood per- fectly still, watching him." He said, "his hair stood up for a moment, but when he got on liis feet they moved away quietly and did not try to molest him." My advice to the camping tourist is, keep out of pastures. THE MILWAUKEE RIVER The following morning- we continued our journey to Milwaukee, passing through W'uukegan, Kenosha and Racine, arriving there early in the after- noon. 1 called at the office of the Yellowstone Trail located in the Dykeman Hotel lobby for information regarding the road to St. Paul and Minneap- olis, and receiving very courteous ti'eatment and was presented with maps carefully marked showing all detours. There is no chai'ge for this service in any Yellowstone or National Parks Highway office. After lunch we started for Fond du Lac a distance of sixty-five miles. Roads were fair and we made good time. Stopped at one small place for gasoline and paid 25c per gallon, whereas we could have secured it in Mil- waukee for 22c or Fond du Lac at 20. 6c. It pays to watch your supply, and fill the tank in the larger towns. We arrived in Fond du Lac earl\- in the evening, drove out to Lakeside Park located on the shore of Lake \\'iiniebago, and were delighted with what we found. A beautiful place with a fine bathing beach, and every convenience for campers, even to free fire wood. We put our tent up within ten feet of a rock retaining wall protecting the channel, and sat on our own front porch and caught all the fish we wanted. All things considered, this was one of the nicest camps we found on the whole trip, and Mayor Henzie called and shook hands with all the tourists with true western hospitality. But time was pressing, and after three delightful days, we pulled up stakes and started for Stephens Point our next camp. We passed through Oshkosh but missed Appleton by taking a short cut across country to Fremont, over good roads to Wapaca, and on to Stephens Point where we arrived early in the evening. The camp in this town is in the fair grounds just as you enter the city from the east. It was a good place to stop over night, but no one would care to stay longer. Early the following morning we were away for Chippewa Falls. This city has a delightful camp ground in big, beautiful Irvine Park. Wonderful trees, velvety grass, kitchen with range and plenty of wood, but no laundry or shower baths. There is a large zoo also that appeals to most adults and all children. Don't fail to stop at Chippewa Falls. From there we drove to Eau Claire over a cement road. This city has a fine camp sight and is only thirteen miles from Chippewa Falls. From Eau Claire to Hudson, the road, passing through Menomonie, Knapp and Wilson was bad — very bad, due partially to the lack of rain. The surface was ground to a fine powder that in places was six to eight inches deep. There were many cars going and coming, and every one was fond du lac, Wisconsin L 14 doing its best to scatter the road over the adjacent fields. The air was filled witli dust. The wliole day from tlie time we left Eau Claire had been a most disagreeable one. Tlie road had led over a succession of sharp, steep hills, deep with dust and loose gravel, and we were very tired when we passed througli tlie little town of ^^'ilson where they have a good camp ground, and should have stopped there ; but as we had been informed that Hudson, thirty-one miles farther west had a better one, we decided to gj) througli even as late as it was. On the way to Hudson we had tire trouble, and it was about ten thirty when we drove down the main street looking for someone to direct us to the camp. The night was very dark and the spot light was burning as we entered the town. We had not proceeded far, when a man in citizen's dress run out in front of us, and, flashing a big badge yelled, "Hey! what are you doing with that spot light, don't you know it is against the law in this state and Minnesota to burn a spot light?" Well, 1 saw we were up against it, so in a joking way I said: "Why, Marshal, we were using it to find you. We are lost and trying to locate your auto tourists' camp ground." Well, he was a good chap, and instead of making an arrest, smiled, and told us how to find the park, adding, "if you can't locate it, come back and I will go with you." We followed his directions, and were soon climbing a precipitous grade. Up. up through the dark we went, the head and spot lights revealing a wall on one side and a dangerous drop on the other. Just a narrow road, twisting and turning, always upward, till we finally found a plateau on the very top of Prospect Hill, with the city lights twinkling far below us. We stopped witli a sigh of relief, and swung the spot light around to find the water supply and a place to put up the camp. All the light revealed was a big sign that read "NO CAMPING HERE." No water or other camping facilities anywhere in sight. So, tired, hungry, and indescribably dirty after that dreadful day, without a chance of washing, or supper, we laid down on the grass and gave up. At the first touch of dawn in the east, we got up and looked around. There, spread at our feet was not only the city of Hudson, but a beautiful stretch of water, the St. Croix. As we were not accustomed to viewing the coun- try from really high hills or mountains, it was delightful. But as we look back upon it now, after having crossed the Rockies and the Cascades, this scene pales into insignificance. As soon at it was light enough to make the turns in the road with safety, we descended from this beautiful if inhos- pitable place and started for St. Paul. Before proceeding further, let me say that a camping tourist should have his camp up and supper over before dark. If we had stopped at Wilson, we could have had a bath, supper and a good night's rest. We passed through the town and entered upon a bridge that spans the St. BROILING A STEAK Croix, and just before we reached tlie west end crossed the state line into Minnesota. Til is is one of those antedelu- vian things — a toll bridge, and with one exception the only one we found on the entire trip, although we had to use thi'ee ferries, two of which charged for passage — the other one was free. The road fi'om Hudson to St. Paul was as a rule good. wash day in camp There were a few bad places, but probably l)y the summer of 1922 these poor stretches will be eliminated. ►St. Paul has a splendid camp ground on Cherokee Heights in a new pai'k just a few blocks from the west end of High Bridge. Although this was the first year, it was equipped with hot and cold shower baths, a kitchen with range and plenty of fire wood ; and next sum- mer they intend to add a complete laundry. This ground attracts a great many campers, and I predict it will have to be enlarged if they continue to treat visitors as nice as they did this year. One of the finest bands of the city came out one evening while we were there and rendered a concert foi' the campers and people living in that part of the city. And it was some concert. Furthermore every attention and consideration was shown visitors from other cities by two gentlemen, Mr. Geo. A. Doran and Mr. Henry J. Hadlick, who through civic pride, and not for money, devote their evenings telling tourists about the best routes and the things of interest in and around St. Paul. Mr. Lee Whelock is in charge of this park, and is on duty all day and a good share of the night, and does everything in his power to make it pleasant for tourists. Spend at least one night on these grounds. You will be more than pleased. And remember this, "St. Paul Serves." Up to this point my son, driving his own car and pulling the trailer had been a member of the party. Owing to ill health he decided to return east, so we put the trailer in storage, shipped all excess clothing by freight to Spokane, and continued the trip with a new tent, cots and clothing loaded on the big sedan. Thus far the route has been through wonderful farming country and prosperous towns. Camp sights have been within easy drives each day, and absolutely nothing to bother even the most inexperienced motorist. Now we are meeting tourists who have come through from tlie Pacific Coast, and of course we talk to as many as we can in an effort to secure really authentic information regarding roads, especially through the moun- tains. We hear all sorts of stories. Many of them make you feel it would be wise to turn around and go back. I had several tell me I would never get over the mountains with my big car and that the I'oads were terrible. Some grades tipped over backward to hear them tell it. I admit they had me worried, but when 1 said, "well, you came through, and other cars, lots of them, are coming and going all tlie time, aren't they?" They reluctantly admitted that such was the case, and added; "well, you may make it." After ten deliglitful days in St. Paul we said good-bye to a lot of nice friends we had made, among them Mr. and Mrs. Doran, Mr. and Mrs. Hadlick and Mr. and Mrs. Sherman, and drove over to Minneapolis. This city also maintains a good camping ground, and you should spend a day or two there before starting west. Westwood, Ho! I have always had it in mind that Minneapolis was the jumping off place for tourists westward bound over the northern trail, and from my view-point I was right. 1^'rom this city you have the choice of two trails. The National Parks Highway leading through St. Cloud, Alexandria, Fergus Falls, Fargo, Bis- mark and a lot of other interesting places, or the Yellowstone Trail a little to the south which passes through Montevideo, Aberdeen and Mobridge. Botli of these trails converge at Fallon, Montana, then use the same high- wny all the way to Spokane, Washington, passing through Miles City, Bill- ings, Livingston, Bozeman, Butte, Missoula, Mullan, Wallace and Coeur d' Alene. For no particular reason, we chose tlie Yellowstone route. We left Minneapolis about six o'clock in tlie evening, and drove to Glenco, a distance of tifty-two miles. Tiiis town, although a small one, lias two camping grounds. One, quite a way out, we were unable to locate in the dark, so we drove back to the town and put up our tent for the night. This was a dandy place, and in the morning while we were at breakfast, one of the ladies of the village called and presented us with a mess of nice butter beans. Western hospitality. We have come in contact with it, more and more as we penetrate the "wild and wooley" west. How amusing tliat is to us now. Many eastern people are still under the impression that western people are rough, and carry guns that they are apt to use at the least provo- cation. How ridiculous. It is a serious otfense to carry a gun "out west," THE PROPER WAY TO DRES.S and from the time we start- ed on this trip we never saw a gun "on the hip" of any- one till we were down in Old Mexico. There we saw plenty of them. We made two more camps in Minnesota, one at Montevideo tJiat night and at Ortonville the following night. The roads through the entire state were splendid. a good mountain road Leaving Ortonville we passed almost immediately into South Dakota, and the first forty miles of road we encountered, while not bad, was not to be compared with those in Minnesota, but from there to within three miles of Aberdeen they were fine. Now we are on the prairie. From the time we entered South Dakota the trees have become more scarce, the only ones there ai'e, were planted by the early settlers. There are no fruit trees. At Aberdeen is a little park that was planted with trees forty years ago. They are still small and precious, but the city has turned this park over to the tourists. P'rom Aberdeen to Mobridge the road was good. This town is located on the Missouri river. They have a camp ground but no shade, and as the day was terribly hot we decided to keep on going. There is no bridge at this point, so we crossed by ferry. The charge is $1.00 for a car, and 10c for each passenger. About two blocks from the ferry landing on the west bank, is a very good camping place in a natural grove. Motorists will save money by having tanks filled in Mobridge as the price takes a jump immediately after crossing the river. Look out for alkali water from the time you enter the Dakotas. Don't drink it. Don't put in your radiator. There is plenty of good water to be had in nearly every town, if you make inquiry. We are now on Standing Rock Indian Reservation, and while we were putting up the tent received a call from an old Sioux warrior, who, with many grunts and smiles, seemed to approve of our mode of living. The distance from the ferry to the next town, McLaughlin, is thirty- eight miles over rolling prairie. This was one of the finest roads we encountered on the whole trip, and it held to within five miles of Lemmon, but from that point to some distance west it was a disgrace to the trail. The days were very hot, but the nights cool. Almost no shade on camp grounds. We put the tent up after sundown and get an early start in the morning to avoid the heat of the day. About six miles east of Marmarth we entered the Bad Lands. From what we had heard, we were prepared for startling sights, and were dis- appointed. There are a number of curious fomiations worth seeing, but the really wonderful views are not on the Yellowstone but on the National Parks Highway to the north. The road througli the Bad Lands was good. -17- but some of the worst we bad encountered so far was from Marmarth to Isniay. There were phices on liills til at were extremely dan- gerous. That night we camped at Ismay. Leaving- there about ten thirty in the morning, we crossed a num- ber of very bad hills, and had just passed through the THE WRECK little town of Mildren, when we came in sight of a deep fill with a high hill just beyond, and an auto- mobile upside down at the foot of the fill. As soon as I could find a safe place to stop, I rushed forward to help the unfortunates, and found they were people we had met in several camps. A high school teacher from Indiana, his wife and daughter, and they were not seriously hurt. Wonderful! Providential! The car had just been laid up two days for repairs, but the brakes had been neglected. He attempted to make this steep curving hill on high, and when half way up stalled the motor. The brakes failed to hold, and the car began to back down the hill. When it came to the deep fill it plunged over the side, turned a somersault and landed upside-down. The wife jumped as the car left the road, but father and daughter went with it and w ere buried unfler the wreckage. By the time I arrived the wife had managed to free them. It is surprising how soon a crowd will gather even away out on the prairies or mountains. It was not very long till there were men enough, with the help of a team to turn that car over, snake it out of the ravine and put it on the road again. It was in such a dreadful condition I had hoped he would abandon it; but two days later he drove into camp, sans windshield, sans top, and as hopeful as ever. The cost of living up here in this part of the world is considerable higher than five or six hundred miles east, due to the fact that nearly everything has to be shipped in. We are now paying 33c for gasoline and $1.50 per gallon for oil. The following day, due to stops at Fallon and i\Iiles City for mail, it was about dark when we drove into the very small village of Hathaway and were invited to camp in the front yard of one of the residents. They were very nice to us and we had a pleasant evening with them. Everything was lovely till they mentioned the fact there were rattlesnakes around there. 1 will tell you I was mighty glad we had a snake-proof tent that night. The next morning I went into the only store in the place, and the clerk was walking around carefully, looking back of boxes and barrels. When I asked him what he was looking for, he replied, "I opened the door leading into the back room this morning, and found a big snake, so I am looking for its mate." Tliat was enough for me, so we immediately "hit the trail" for Billings. Roads through this part of the state were fairly good in some spots and very bad in others. i\Iuch new work was being done, therefore there were a number of detours. Billings, Montana. What a relief to drive into this nice, thriving western city, and secure a first class meal. We have had considerable hard- ship for some days past. Some of the road was terrible. The weather during the day was very hot, and at night very cold, and as they seldom have rain in this part of the country there was plenty of dust. We expected to see many animals on this trip, but with the exception of a few prairie dogs, a large number of gophers and jack rabbits, and some snakes, we have been disappointed. We did see hundreds of dead jack rabbits and gophers in the road. They are a great menace to the farmers and ranchmen, and they kill as many as possible, and leave them lying for the eagles and buzzards to feast on. We were told there were many rattlesnakes in this part of the country. A garage m'an in Mildred said a posse went out of that town a few days befoi'e and killed two hundred and fifty. Another garage man said he had killed one that day, and proved it by showing the rattles. But how is this for a snake story: A gentleman told me he employed a man with a car to take him into the back country a couple of years ago, and on the way noticed a streak of dust arising just ahead of the automobile, but nothing in sight to cause it. He called the attention of the driver to it and was told it was a drove of migrating rattlesnakes crossing the road. Like myself, this man was very much afraid of snakes, and asked the driver what he was going to do about it. "I will show you," he replied, and with that he drove through and over the mass. He said, "The wheels slid and the car skidded, snakes hissed and struck blindly at the wheels and fenders and that his hair stood straight up." Maybe so. Perhaps he was joking, but on the whole trip we did not see one rattlesnake. At Fallon we had our first glimpse of the Yellowstone River, and followed it to a considerable extent all the way to Livingston, and as part of the country is irrigated have seen a few trees and have been able to buy a little green stuff to eat. Just before arriving in Billings, we passed through a small town, on the most prominent corner of which was a sign reading: "Speed limit, 101 miles per hour. Free air if you pump it yourself." I will not mention the name of the town, for fear every fellow that reads this will not only break their traffic law and be arrested, but wreck his car as well, because the road was built for not more than 10 miles per hour at the most. At Laurel, fifteen miles west of Billings, we had our first glimpse of a snow-capped peak. This mountain is a part of the Bear Tooth range, and the highest in the state of Montana, and we were told was about fifty miles away. That night we camped on a very nice ground at Big Timber, with the Crazy Mountains for a background. The following day we drove into Livingston, another one of the strictly modern, practically new western cities. We had looked forward to our arrival in Livingstone with considei'able pleasure, and were not disappointed. It is not only a thriving beautiful little city that stands in a valley surrounded on every side with towering mountains, but is the gateway to the only natural entrance to that "Wonderland of the World," Yellowstone Park. We arrived in Livingston about noon on a Saturday, and aftei- a splendid dinner at one of the many good restaurants, bought a supply of groceries and meats, had the gas tank filled and oil replenished, and headed ONE encounters distant snow capped ranges, but more majestic and unusual are the great glacial peaks, standing out alone overlooking the whole world. For miles and miles, visible to the motorist among these peaks, are Livingston, Rainier, St. Helens, Adams, Hood and ]\It. Shasta. The glory of the changing shadows and colors on these great sentinels is beyond description. south to tlie Gardiner entnuice of the Park. Ahiiost from tlie time you leave Liv- ingston you begin a gradual ascent, and about eight miles from the city pass be- tween frowning- walls that guard the entrance to tlie valley of the Yellowstone that leads directly to the little town of Gardiner. Gardiner Station of the Northern Pacific Railway, is within a stone's throw of the entrance; and the Yellowstone Park Transportation Company operates a line of automobile stages to all points within the Park, for the benefit of those who prefer to travel by rail instead of driving their own cars. At the entrance, we drove under an imposing- stone arch erected by the gov- ernment in 1903 and dedicated by Presi- dent Roosevelt. An inscription on this arch reads, "Yellowstone National Park, Mai'ch 1, 1872, for the Benefit and Enjoyment of the People." Just inside we were stopped by the guards who collected an entrance fee of $7.50, took our gun and sealed it, passed our dog, but told us to keep him tied up so he would not kill a bear, and turned us loose. ALONG THE YELLOWSTONE Created by Act of Congress, A WILD ANIMAL REFUGE The Yellowstone National Park is perhaps the largest and certainly the most successful wild-animal refuge in the world. For this reason it offers an exceptional field for nature study. The increase in the number of wild animals in the Park is very notice- able; this because of the cai'eful protection aft'orded them. Hunting- is prohibited, except with a camera, and this is encouraged. Besides many bears and buffaloes, there are antelope, mountain sheep, whitetail and mule deer, and elk. These animals are harmless when no attempt is made to annoy or in- terfere with the m. They may not always be seen by the visi- tors in the automo- biles which travel the main high-ways daily d u r i n g the season, but the quiet watcher on the near-by trails may often see deer and bear and elk and antelope, and he may even see mountain gardiner station, n. p. r. k. wax fat tlie eaii til em. slieep, moose, and buffalo by journey- ing on foot or by lorseback into their retreats. The summer season in the Park is the vacation period for bears. Morning- and even- ing a few of the many bears in the Park frequent the vicinity of the ho- tels and camps and and sleek upon the refuse. Watching these bears feed is one of y evening diversions. Occasionally a grizzly may be seen among BEAKS IN YELLOWSTONE Only twenty-five buffalo had been left by hunters when protection laws were passed in 1896. These have increased now to about 600. They are in two herds. The larger, miscalled the "tame herd," because it is somewhat under control by the rangers, lives in the upper Lamar Valley, where visitors may easily find it. Approach is over a good motor road. During the summer tourist season, a few of these are driven into pasture at Mammoth Hot Springs so as to be visible to the tourists. The so-called wild herd roams the wilderness round about Yellowstone Lake. Some are to be seen around the southeast arm of Yellowstone Lake and on Hell-roaring Creek. Occasionally one or more ma.v be seen by tourists near tlie main road of the Park, far from their favorite haunts. By far the larger number are to be found in the Beckler River country in the southwest corner of the Park. The beaver, once so important a part of animal life in the West, are also rapidly increasing. Almost every stream shows signs of their pres- ence. Near Tower Fall there are several colonies ; the ponds are easily seen by tourists who visit the locality. There are also some beside the Tower Fall road, near Mammoth Hot Springs, just south of the crossing of Lava Creek. Of birds there are between 1.50 and 200 species — geese, ducks, pelicans, gulls, eagles, hawks, owls, night hawks, ravens. Rocky Mountain jays, tanagers, bluebirds, water ouzels, blackbirds, meadow larks, robins, and others. Tourists who go into Yellowstone Park with their own camping outfit, need have no fear of animals except bears, who have a habit of coming to the camps at night when all is still, snooping around trying to find sugar and bacon. Nearly everyone is careful to put those things where the bears will not be apt to locate them. However, one chap who thought he was wise, hung his supply on the limb of a tree higii from the ground. The bears came, and through sense of smell found it, and being unable to reach it, one of them climbed the tree and shook it down. Visitors are cautioned not to feed tlie bears, but some of tliem disobey this rule, and because of it, there have been a number of serious accidents. The elevation at Gardiner is 5,400 feet, but at Mammoth Hot Springs, in four and a half miles the elevation has increased 875 feet, making a total height of 6,275 feet at that point. However as the road is good, the climb is made without undue effort. And now the sights begin. Odd, beautiful, startling things, unfold tliemselves to view as you roll along ovei' the splendid roads. THE TERRACED MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS At Mammoth Hot Springs, in the north of the Park, hot waters heavily charged with lime have built up tier upon tier of white terraces which the algae-laden waters color faint tints of red, yellow, blue, and pink. Each terrace carries basins, elaborately carved and fretted, whicii, when their springs run di'y, merge into the great hills of white formation, while new basins form upon their edges. These terraces engulf trees. They form an astonishing spectacle. Pulpit, Jupiter, Cleopatra, and Hymen terraces, Orange Spring, the White Elephant, Angel Terrace, and the Devil's Kitchen are the most important attractions. Liberty Cap, a monument-like shaft, was perhaps once embodied in a terrace ; because it was of harder rock-like material, the erosion which washed away its surrounding formation has left it standing. A similar but smaller shaft near-by is known as the Giant's Thumb. There are rides, walks, and drives about the springs. The mouth of Boiling Kiver, and the canyon and Osprey Fall of the Middle Gardiner River behind Bunsen Peak, are all within walking distance; they also can be reached by horseback or by automobile. The general panorama at Mammoth Hot Springs is one of the most striking in the Park. The steaming, tinted terraces and Fort Yellowstone near-by; the long, palisaded escaiiDment of Mount Everts to the east; the dominating presence of Bunsen Peak to the south, with the Gardiner Can- yon and the distant elevations of the Mount \^'ashburn group; the rugged slopes of Terrace Mountain to the west, and the distant peaks of the Snowy Range to the north — all together form a surrounding landscape of wonder- ful beauty and contrast. After leaving Mammoth Hot Springs, we continued to climb, up tlirough Hoodoo Rocks, Silver Gate, Golden Gate, and past all sorts of natural phenomenon, and before we realized it, were on a great plateau high up among snow-covered peaks. A storm is brewing. It got quite cold, \^'e closed the car and put on lieavy coats. The peaks became obscured by clouds. Rain overtook us, but on we went, mile after mile over comparatively level roads, high up in the mountains, with flashes of lightning and peals of thunder all around us. That night we camped way up there among the peaks, and as we lay awake, too cold to sleep, we heard the cry of a timber wolf, and he was not far away. Early the next day, after a drive through virgin pine forests, we came in sight of clouds of steam emerging from crevices in the earth. Hot springs and geysers. OLD FAITHFUL GEYSER Never Disappoints Visitors Every sixty to eighty minutes it hurls a million and a half gallons of water high in the air UPPER GEYSER HASIN \MIERE GEYSERS FROLIC Nature has lav- ished liev most extra- ordinary gifts on tiie region of the Yellow- stone. Here are wild woodland, carpeted with vari-colored wild Howers, crystal rivers, thundering cataracts, gorgeous canyons, sparkling cascades, birds and animals, small and large; but of all its wonders none is so unusual, so startling, so weird, as the geysers. Once seen, the memory and mystery of them will forever linger. The Yellowstone geysers are renowned the woild over, because of their size, power, number, and variety of action. The more prominent geysers are confined to three basins, lying near each other in the middle west zone. Other hot water manifestations occur in all parts of the Park. Marvelously-colored hot springs, mud volcanoes, and other strange phenomena are freciuent. The geysers exhibit a large variety of character and action. xMany, like Old Faithful, spout at more oi' less regular intervals; some of the other large ones play at irregular inter- vals of days, weeks, or months; some small ones play every few minutes. Some burst upward with immense power; others hurl streams at angles or bubble and foam. The Lone Star Geyser, just oil the road from Upper Basin to ThumI), has one of tiie most beautiful cdiies. It plays sixty feet in the air for ten minutes, at intervals of f()rt\' minutes. Yellowstone has more geysers than all the rest of the world. Some are literal volcanoes of water. To translate this into volume we will use Old Faithful as an example. According to observations made by the United States Geological Sui'vey, this most famous of all geysers hurls in the air every sixty-five to eighty minutes a million and a half gallons of water, or 33,22.5, ()()() gallons a day. This would supply a city of oO(),0()() inhabitants. There is a very large, splendidly e<|uipped auto tourists' camp ground just back of the hotel at Old Faithful, and you can spend several enjoyable days there. From Old Faithful we went to Yellowstone Lake, which with one excep- tion, Lake Titicaca, in Peru, is the largest in the world at its elevation of 7,741 feet. It has a shore line one hundred miles long, and is a beautiful sheet of ice cold water. Its sole outlet is the Yellowstone River; thus it is a never-failing source of supply for one of the Missouri's greatest tributaries. p^. Old Faithful" If Bee HrvE Geyser. Jewel Geyser A GLIMPSE OF GRAND CANYON AND GREAT FALLS WELL STOCKED FISHING GROUNDS In 1889 the United States Fish Commission began the dis- tribution of fish in tlie Park waters. In recent years there has been an annual distribution aggre- gating' hundreds of thousands of trout, so that most of the lakes and streams in wliicli fisli can thrive are now stocked witli one or more varieties. Approximately 10,000,000 young fish have been placed in Park waters. These comprise grayling and Rocky Mountain whitefish; black spotted or native trout; rainbow, Loch Leven, lake, eastern brook, and Von Behr, or bi'own, trout. Practically all the waters within easy distance of the Park hotels and camps are kept fairly-well stocked with fish, and many of the more remote streams and lakes are even better supplied owing to their being less visited by anglers. Visitors who do not take their own fishing equipment can supply tiiem- selves at any of the iiotels or camps upon payment of a small rental. Yellowstone is a paradise for the expert angler. Almost any of a hundred streams can be successfully whipped by an adept, while an amateur can catch lake trout from Fisiiing Bridge which spans the River just a short distance from where the Lake empties into it. The current is very strong, the water ice cold, and filled with trout. You can stand on the bridge and see thousands of them. Fish if you like. Every fisherman is allowed ten fish each day, but they must be caught with hook and line, and be over eiglit inches in lengtii. No license is required. As hunting and poaching is prohibited, and the animals — with the exception of Coyotes and JMountain Lions — are protected, there are thou- sands upon thousands roaming at will all over the Pai'k. From tlie Lake we went to the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, and if there was only one thing to be seen, and that the Canyon, it would be worth the trip. Go to Artist's Point, climb the stairs to the lookout platform, and drink in the wonderous beauty spread at your feet. No artist can paint, no pen describe, what God through the ages has prepared for you to look upon. Rudyard Kipling wrote: "All that I can say is that without warning or preparation I looked into gulf 1,200 feet deep, with eagles and fish-hawks circling far below. And the sides of that gulf were one wild welter of color — crimson, emerald, cobalt, ochre, amber, honey splashed with port wine, snow-white, vermilion, lemon and silver-grey in wide washes. The sides did not fall sheer, but were graven by time and water and air into mon- strous heads of kings, dead chiefs — men and women of the old time. So far below tluit no sound of strife could reach us, the Yellowstone Riven ran, a finger-wide strip of jade green. The sunlight took those wondrous walls and gave fresh hues to those that Nature had already laid there. "Evening crept through the pines that shadowed us, but the full glory of the day flamed in that canyon as we went out veiy cautiously to a jutting piece of rock — blood-red or pink it was — that luing the deepest of all." The famous artist iMoran said: "Its beautiful tints are beyond tiie reach of human art." And General Sherman, referring to Moran's painting of the canyon, added: "The painting by Moran in the Capitol is good, but painting and words are unequal to the subject." Folsom, connected with the private expedition of '69, and who first vvi-ote of the can\on, said: "Language is entirely inadequate to convey a just conception of the awful grandeur and sublimity of this most beautiful of Nature's handiwork." The canyon is vast. A cross-section in the largest part measures 2,000 feet at the top and 200 feet at the bottom, with 1,200 feet of depth. The Upper Fall is 109 feet, the Lower or Great Fall, 308 feet in height. The canyon and Lower Fall — a composite picture — are seen to the best ad- vantage from Artist Point and Inspiration Point. Upon leaving the canyon the trouist has tlie choice of two routes if returning to the Gardiner entrance. One, the Canyon Road, runs west to Norris Geyser Basin and thence north to the entrance. The other, the Chittenden Road runs north to Dunraven Pass, where it branches. The one to the left goes through the Pass and is the shorter more direct route without tiie heagy grades of the road to the right which takes you up and over Mt. Washburn. If you have the nerve and a fairly good car, by all means take the latter, as the wonderful view from an altitude of 10,388 feet, will more than repay for the effort. After a number of never to be forgotten days spent in the Park, w^e headed for the Gardiner entrance and Livingston, to again take the trail tiiat leads into the land of the "Setting Sun." This year the road from Livingston to Gardiner was very bad in some places, and the Livingston Chamber of Commerce collected a fund to put it in first class condition for the summer of 1922, so remember this motor- ists, the business men of Livingston ai'e doing everything in their power to make your trip a pleasant one, and you siiould reciprocate by purchasing your supplies in their city. That the Livingston-Gardiner Road is the most popular entrance to the Park was proven by the State Higlnvay Commission's check of traffic last summer. In one day 1295 cars passed a given point. The government should hard-surface and maintain this principal artery to our National Wonderland. That night we spent in Livingston, and started early the following- morning for Butte, passing through Bozeman and Three Forks. At the latter place we wei-e advised to leave the Yellowstone Ti'ail, and take a new road to Whitehall that would siiorten the distance thirteen miles. This is called the White route and was not very well marked, but we managed to keep on it, and after a long hard climb, began a descent. The grade was a TENS OK THOUSANDS OF LITTLE LAKES ARE TRIBUTARY TO THE NATIONAL PARKS HIGHWAY steep one, and soon we were on a road just wide enough for one car, with precipitous walls rising- higlier and higlier on both sides. On we went, DOWN DOWN DOWN apparently into tlie bowels of the eartli. By this time it was getting late. The sun was low and the deeper we went into the canyon the darker it grew. I admit it was a little spooky. A strange road just wide enough for one car, with an occasional poclcet hewn from the rocky wall as a passing point. Now there is a rushing, roaring stream on one side of the narrow road; it is quite dark, the lights are burning, the horn sounding at intervals of a few seconds, and as we slip around curve after curve, always on the descent, with the precipitous walls rising higher and higher, the stream roaring louder and louder, we shivered a little, and wondered if we were ever going to reach the bottom. But at last it grew lighter, and with a sigh of relief, we drove into the open, just as the sun sank to rest beyond a distant mountain. We were told this was Boulder Canyon, and advise all tourists to take this route; but do it in daylight, ^^'e stopped at Whitehall that night, and got an early start for Butte the next morning. This was to be a drive that I had worried about for a long time. Several motorists had told me the climb to the Continental Divide — elevation 6,950 feet was a hard one, and the hill leading down into Butte was so steep and bad I would have to engage a man familiar with it to pilot my car. Naturally, not being a seasoned mountain driver I was worried, and wondered what I was "up against." but found that the incline on the east of the divide was a long, gradual one, with just an occasional steep grade. When we arrived at the top, I shifted to low year and started for the bottom of the hill. That was pretty slow, so I changed to second. About half way down is a sign that reads, "Change to low gear." There I stopped, made the change, and continued the descent. A little further along we came to the iron work of a big Winton touring car that had been destroyed by fire; all that remained to tell the tale of the tragedy of the day before. I understand the driver of this car, like some others who have attempted to negotiate this hill depend- ing on brakes instead of compression, met with disaster. Just to prove to my own satisfaction, that any careful driver can descend this hill without mishap, I brought the car to a complete stop several times on the way down. The divide is about eighteen miles east of Butte, and if you are traveling east, is a steep climb to the top; but all kinds of cars make it without trouble, so don't let anyone tell you it is impossible, or that you have to engage a man to drive your car. Anyhow Mr. Motorist by the time you reach Butte going in either direction, you will liave had mountain driving experience enough so that a little think like the Continental Divide or the Camel's Hump they never fail to tell you about, won't worry you in the least. One of the bug-a-boos nearly every motorist will throw at you is the "Camel's Hump," between St. Regis and Cabin City, about thirty-five miles east of the Idaho line. Well it is some hump I admit, but the road leading up and down is a very good one, and you need not worry about it. I was rather amused when we went over the "Hump." We reached the top and had started down the western slope without knowing we had accomplished PICTURES TAKEN IN OUR NATIONAL PARKS RAINIER. GLACIER. " OLD FAITHFUL " GEYSER. YELLOWSTONE. CRATER LAKE tlie wonderful feat, \\hen we met a chap who was doing some fixng on his car, and I asked liim where tlie "Hump" was. He looked at me rather sus- piciously and answered. "H you just came over it." There are a lot of other experiences you will liave had by this time also. For example; you may liave been high up on a shelf road; one of tliose I'oads cut in the side of a mountain. It starts on terra firma, but in a short time you are away up among the clouds, a sheer mountain wall tow- ering over you on one side, and — a drop of hundreds of feet — on the other. Tliis road may be just wide enough for one car, perhaps there are no logs or masonry to prevent you driving into the chasm ; and you are keyed up to a high pitch. With both feet on the pedals, a deatli grip on the wheel, you are swinging in and out around slicn't, sharp curves, and suddenly on a jutting i-ock that obscures the road ahead, you see a sign that reads, '•PliEPAKE TO MEET THY GOD" or "DEATH AWAITS YOU JUST AROUND THE CORNER." Well, I don't care how nervy you are, your first experience of this kind will send a shiver up your spine, and you proceed with caution. After dinner at Butte, we drove to Deer Lodge and camped for tlie night. This was the best camp ground we have stopped at for a long time. Don't overlook it. Tlie following nigiit was spent at Missoula. There .\'ou will find a splendid camp ground a short distance out of town, in a magnificent pine forest. Montana is a big state. It is about eigiit hundred miles drive to cross it, and the larger share of the road is very bad. However, when you size up the country through which the trail passes, you will readily understand the reason. They told me tiiey had not had a crop for four years, and many homes are deserted. There are no funds to keep up good roads. We started from Missoula txpecting to reacli Wallace, Idaho, a distance of only one hundred and twenty-nine miles that day, but owing to bad roads and tire trouble, covered just sixty-three miles, and stopped in Superior that night, and were lucky to make Mullan, Idaho, fifty-nine miles the following day. The last ten miles of Montana road, from Saltese to Sum- mit, the top of the Divide and on the Montana and Idaho line, was bad, and tlie grade very steep. Just before we reached the top, we passed a man with a team, who gives motorists a pull up the last stretch for $2.00. ^^"e did not need his help, but were told many others do. At the top of the divide we entered Idaho on a splendid road, and immediately started down a steep grade. If you should make this trip, about two city blocks from the summit you will come to a hair-pin turn. Don't attempt to inake it without stopping and backing the car. Many a fellow has, to his sorrow. Go down slowly. STOP! Back the car! Play safe ! The road in Idaho was much better than any we had covered for a long time, but after passing through Wallace, Kellog, and the Fourth of July Canyon, with Couer d'Alene aljout twenty miles ahead, we came to a long, winding, steep, shelf road, cut in the side of a mountain. At first the road rises gTadually, then ratlier abruptly. It is wide enougii for two cars, but most of tlie outside is unguarded. Going west the mountain wall was at the right, and the cars we met had to take the outside, and while I was sorry for the other fellow, I was glad for myself. In spite of all the experience 1 liad had crossing the Rockies, it was a ticklish job. The road kept rising, it seemed as though we would never reach the summit. To our riglit the mountain wall; to the left Lake Couer d'Alene spread at our feet for miles. 1 am sure to a man in a boat our auto must have looked like a tly, away up there on the side of that mountain. At last we reached the top, took a turn to the right, congratulated ourselves, and began the descent; and in a short time arrived at the bottom, only to begin climbing another mountain that was higher than the first. Again the lake lay shimmering at our feet. Oh ! what a sight. But brother if you want to enjoy that wonderful scene, do as 1 did, STOP THE CAR! Otherwise keep your eyes glued to the road. Don't look down ! After reaching the summit of the second mountain, we were soon in Coure d'Alene, and would have stopped over night in this pretty little place, but mail awaited us in Spokane, only thirty-four miles away, so we con- tinued our journay to the metropolis of the Inland Empire; the last seventeen miles over a fine cement road called "The Apple Way." Spokane has one of the finest and most complete camp grounds we have found on the entire ti'ip, and it was filled to overflowing with a con- glomerate, hetrogeneous, cosmopolitan crowd. All kinds of cars from the palatial limousine with the back of tlie front seat cut and hinged so it can be let down to make a bed ; to the lowly flivver that made racket enough to raise the dead, were there. Some of these cars, particularly the flivvers, carry enormous loads. Grips, trunks, tents, cooking utensils, bedclothes and bed springs; piled and heaped upon every available inch of space; front, back and sides, with as many as six people on the inside. One family carried a goat so they could have fresh milk for the children. Is it any wonder that these poor little flivvers grunt and groan and rattle and squeak enough to raise the dead? You marvel how they stand up under the load and get anywhere. But they do. Sometimes you see tlie wife and children out behind helping the motor on an extra steep grade, but usually they reach the top and on they go. It was on this ground we met Mr. and Mrs. Homer Arter. Mr. Arter is the owner of a very large citrus ranch in Cuba, and being a native of Ohio, decided to "See America First" and by auto. So he came over to Florida and purchased a Reo Speed Wagon chasis and had a "real regular house" body made for it. He did not have to put up and take down a tent every mi;, .'vrter's car day. They could stop at the side of tlie road anywhere or drive onto tlie lot, have supper, and go to bed in a few minutes. And they were surely "Seeing- America" when we left them in California to return east. We liked Spokane so well we stayed ten days, instead of one, as we first intended. Provisions were much cheaper in this city, than at iiome or anywhere along the road. Stores and markets filled to overHow with finest fruits and vegetables, meats and sea foods, at, to us, extremely low prices. Strawberries that had disappeared from the eastern markets long before, were very fine and plentiful, and selling at 2.5c per quart. Boiling beef at 10c, and good steak at 20c to 2.5c. Salmon and halibut steaks at 17c per pound, and everytiiing else at proportionate prices. It seemed like a poor man's paradise. Leaving Spokane, we continued west over the Sunset Highway to Hartline. Wilson Creek, Quincy and Vantage Ferry to Ellensburg. This is over the National Parks Highway and considerable shorter than the Yellowstone Trail which leads south to \^'alla \A'alla and from there to Ellensburg. At this point the two great trails again converge and continue west through Cle Elum and Snoqualmie Pass to Seattle. Tlie roads across the entire state are what may be called good. Of course tliei-e are stretches here and there that are bad, but on the whole you will find little to complain about. 1 have seen many beautiful sights from the front seat of an automo- bile, but 1 do not recall anything more beautiful and restful than that wonderful ride through Snoqualmie Pass. Mile after mile of road as smooth as a fioor, traversing the Snoqualmie National Forest Reserve, to an eleva- tion of 3,010 feet, up and down grades that are hardly noticeable, through magnificent natural forest, ablaze with gorgeous bloom backed by a setting of marvelous verdure, is something I shall never forget; and neither will you, if you ever drive through it. We are now over the Rockies and the Cascade Mountains, and while there are many others in the Coast Range to cross before we arrive at th-e end of our journey, they will not be so high nor dangerous. For days past, a constant reminder of the danger of mountain touring- has been thrust upon us. Enterprising garage men have placed signs along the road telling you about their wreck cars, what they can do, and how to get them in case of need. Mighty comforting perhaps ; but disquieting also. It keeps you keyed up to a high pitch, and incessantly wondering — what next. Seattle, "The Seaport of Success." Thirty-five years ago a little frontier town of four thousand inhabitants; today a virile, progressive city of three hundred and fifty thousand souls. Located on one of the finest harbors in the world, clustering about its lakes, and on its mountains, with pine forests and snow-capped peaks for a back-ground. I don't wonder at its growth, past, present and future. Splendid schools, office buildings, and stores. JMarkets filled to overflowing with delicious fruits and vegetables, meats and sea foods that will make your mouth water, and everything at prices within the reach ot all. Seattle has a well located camp ground, but this year lacked some comforts that I was told will be provided for the summer of 1922. At Seattle we turned south and started on our long journey of 1,652 H .J H H < miles to Los Angeles, California. Tacoma is the first city of any consequence and is reached over a splendid pavement. This summer the city of Tacoma had no camp ground, but at South Ta- coma, a drive of six miles, we found one of the nicest, most complete camp grounds on wliole trip. Tacoma adver- tises "A S n o w- Capped Mountain in its Dooryard." SEATTLE WeW. that is true, figuratively speak- ing, for the great and wonderful Mt. Rainier is but three hours' drive from the center of the city. Tacoma people don't call it Mt. Rainier, they still stick to tlie old original Indian name of Tacoma; meaning, "The God of Mountains." The distance to the mountain is about seventy miles. Approximately one-third over splendid pavement, and the balance over gravel and dirt that was fairly good going. The morning we started for the mountain, tiiere was a thick haze and nothing could be seen of it for the first ten miles; but all at once there burst into view a marvelous sight. High up in the air there loomed a tremendous mass of snow and ice that seemed only a few miles away, but in reality was at least fifty in a straight line. On we went with this monster mountain always in view, till at last we drove up to the entrance of Rainier National Park. There we paid an admission fee of $2.50 for the auto and passengers. This is the only mountain in the world reached to line of eternal snows by an automobile highway. At the gate we began climbing a modest incline on a fairly good road that took us through wonderful forests of fir, cedar and hemlock, and across mountain torrents fed by over 32,000 acres of ice fields. The distance from the gate to Paradise Valley is twenty miles. The first twelve miles to Nisqually Glacier is a two-way road but from the Glacier to the Valley the road is ,iust wide enough for one car. and traff'ic is permitted on a one-way schedule only. Automobiles leave the Glacier ascending, and Paradise Valley descending, on each hour, 8:00 A. M. to 7:00 P. M. inclusive, passing at Narada Falls on each half-hour. The trip up the one-way road to Paradise Valley is a "corker," but perfectly safe for a careful driver. The road is, for the most part, dug out of the side of the mountain, the grade quite steep in some places. Pre- IN PARADISE VALLEY cipitous walls on one side, a deep chasm on the other. Most of the outside is guarded by a low rock wall. But DON'T LOOK DOWN ! it is dangerous business. My! what a sight. Away up there among the clouds. Wonderful ! Amazing ! Some job to build those roads, and when you consider the sea- son is only a little over two months in length, you mar- vel they are so good. Owing to the splendid work of the engineers, almost the entire distance from the gate to Paradise Valley can be made without shifting the gears from high. There are plenty of camping places in the Park, even away up in the Valley close to the ice and snow, but that was too cold for us. The Mountain has a height of 14,408 feet, and in its sides are twenty- eight great glaciers that are the source of seventeen large rivers. Leaving Mt. Rainier, we started for Portland, and were told by several people we could cut off about fifty miles by going from Elbe through Morton and pick up the Pacific Highway at tlie small town of Toledo. Wasli. We took their advice, and drove through some of tlie finest forest we have even seen, over splendid gravel and tlie worst plank and corduroy roads that were ever built, and got lost in a deep wood witli just a faint trail to follow, and were about to give up and retrace our way, when an old Indian on horse-back came along and guided us to the Highway, ^^'hile this part of the trip was a beautiful one, I would advise all tourists to go back toward Tacoma even if it is much fartlier. A very interesting feature of this side-trip, was mile after mile of road that was clogged witii wild blackberry bushes filled with blossoms, and green and ripe berries. Thousands upon tliousands of bushels of delicious fruit ; yours for the picking. We located the Pacific Highway about two miles north of Toledo, and proceeded to Portland, Oregon. Portland. "The City of Roses" and Bungalows. Located at the junction of two important rivers, backed by the scenic grandeur of the Cascade Mountains with tlieir snow-capped peaks, and the timbered area of tlie Coast Range, it stands in a class by itself. From this city, west to the Pacific and east to Central Oregon, reaches America's newest and most scenic highway for the motorist, the Columbia River Highway. All the beauties of the Alps, the Rhine and Southern Italy, combined with the wild grandeur of the American Rockies will be found on this drive. Tliis road from a scenic and engineering standpoint is without a doubt the most remarkable in the United States if not the wliole world. It is smooth as a floor, nowhere less than twenty-four feet in width, and much wider at the curves, and has a maximum grade of five per cent. It is absolutely safe the entire 1 e n g t h, even where hanging- to the face of the cliff hundreds of feet above the waters of the magnificent Col- umbia. Don't overlook this trip under any circumstances. Leaving Portland we journeyed south through Oregon over splendid roads, some of them paved as fine as a boulevard ; pass- ing through Salem, Albany, Eugene, Roseburg and Grant's Pass. From Grant's Pass through Med- ford and Ashland to the California line is :me of the finest pave- ni e n t s possible to build, and thru the mountains is remark- able from an engi- neering standpoint. Tliere are plenty of good camping grounds all along the route, the one in Ashland is espe- cially well equipped. As we entered Califoi'nia, a big bulletin at the side of the road in- formed us the law reciuired all visiting motorists to register within twenty- four liours. As soon as we arrived at Sacramento I called at the office of the i\lotor Vehicle Department, and secured a permit allowing me three months' time as a tourist; also an operator's license, which every person that drives a car in California must have. Shortly after crossing the state line, Mt. Shasta with its snow-covered crest flashes into view, and the road takes you right up to and around the base. It is not so spectacular as Mt. Rainier. Not so much snow. No wonderful forests, and no automobile roads. From the time we reached the California line to within a short distance of Sacramento the roads were not nearly as good as those through Oi'egon. CALIFORNIA A gorgeous land, full of life and color; waters flowing against formid- able cliffs; rivers and cataracts that boom and roar as they take great leaps over sheer mountain precipices ; crystal clear lakes in valley and mountain ; spicy forests of giant trees spreading their protecting arms over the shelters of man and the whole colorful land beribboned with shining- highways. The hub of this wonderland is historic Sacramento, around whose early history and the discovery of gold, has been written the romance of Cali- fornia. The whole enchanting region is reached over the system of roads radiating from the Capital City and the route to much of the forest and lake region in the high Sierras, will take you over paved highways which mark the once dim trails of the "Forty-Niners." To see with one's own eyes the places made famous during the earl\- f'ays of California — the first settlement of the white man, the Spanish Missions, the wild mining towns of the old gold days, the entrancing- mountain scenery and the alluring climate of California — is in the heart of every person who plans a trip to the Golden ^^'est. Sacramento lias a good camp ground. Stop over there, and beginning at Sutter Fort enjoy a five-hour auto drive through orange groves, from which come the earliest of California's citrus fruit, past gigantic gold dredgers separating the precious metal from the soil twenty-four hours of tile day, and then on through the old mining towns of Folsom, Shingle Springs and Placerville to Coloma, where gold was discovered; returning through Auburn and a wonderful fruit district. All along the way is presented an endless panorama of beautiful views including the picturesque American River. Over the streets .\'our auto travels today, a few years ago traveled the red-shirted miner, the patient burro, and the powerful ox team, but they traveled in dust or mud to tlieir ankles, and the miner's bed was under the nearest tree at sundown. The "Days of Old, the Days of Gold," are wrapped up in the iiistory of this city. At Coloma, near here, on January 24th, 1848, the first gold nugget was found. This event startled the whole civilized world, and the rush began. From all points they came, the rich, the poor, the saint and the sinner. But one thought pervaded the whole excited, irresponsible, gold-maddened mob, "Gold, Gold! then back to home and the kiddies!" Miners brought their nuggets to town in little salt sacks, yeast cans or old socks. Gainbling houses, grog shops and dance halls, flourished by scores. The gold hysteria knew no law nor restraint in that first mad rush. Towns became known and named from their most prominent vices or crimes. Whiskey Diggings, Port Wine, Slug Gulch. You Bet, and ^Vild Yankee Diggins told their own story. One place became so prosperous and lawless that they hung law breakers first singly, then in pairs; so they named the settlement Ilangtown, now Placerville. In Sacramento by 1850 the great rush was at its height. Hotels, of rough boards, canvas and sheet iron, were inadequate to handle the cro-w'ds. Dance halls kept open twenty-four hours a day. -4(1- Ill July tlie city stopped to take breath. A City Council was formed, a constitution for local government adopted. Tlie lawless element fought every attempt to bring order out of chaos. Time and the persistent work of the better class eventually won out and Sacramento emerged from its frontier clothes and became a real city with all of a real city's advantages. FISHING Up to this point, with the exception of the Dakotas and a part of Montana, the man who likes to fish will find plenty of opportunity to test his skill. Mountain streams and lakes are well stocked with trout and other varieties of game fish, and rare sport awaits you. Every state requires a non-resi- dent to purchase a license, and it is not safe to cast a line without one. Game laws are very strict, and many sportsmen are heavily fined for taking fish that are undersized or out of season. It will pay you to secure a license and a copy of the law in each state before you try your luck. While we were in camp at Yreka, California, a tourist came in with three enormous salmon lashed on the foot-board of his car. He had speared them in a stream just outside of the town. Everyone in camp had all the fish they could eat that day. There is no fresh water fishing around Los Angeles, but a drive of fifteen or twenty miles will take you to the Ocean piers where there is plenty of sport every day in the year. From Sacramento we drove to Vallejo, where we shipped a distance of about thirty miles to San Francisco, at a cost of $3.30 for the auto and 97c for each passenger. This was the shortest and easiest way, as we would have had to ferry from Vallejo to Rodeo, drive thirty miles to Oakland and ferry from there to San Francisco, the cost is practically the same m i n u s the labor. San Francisco has no camp ground, but ^ __ Oakland just across H^^atfsff the bay has one, and .\'ou can ferry across at a cost of .f 1.22 for the car and 8c for each passenger. SAN FRANCISCO SERENE, indifferent to Fate, thou sittest by the western gate," sang Bret Harte of San Francisco, the city "loved around the world and by its own people best of all." The beauty and grandeur of San Francisco's location have delighted every visitor that has ever had the good fortune to visit this great cos- mopolitan center. San t^'rancisco came into being a drowsy Spanish hamlet, fed on the intoxication of a gold rush, then developed by an adventurous commerce and a baronial agriculture. Compelled by the isolation from its home peoples to work out its own ethical and social standards, San Francisco has evolved an individuality and a versatility equal to any other city in the United States. A city built on the commanding heights overlooking the broad waters of its matchless harbor, San Francisco is declared to be approached in beauty of situation only by Constantinople and Rio de Janeiro. The city occupies the northern end of a peninsula, with the Pacific Ocean on the West and the Bay of San Francisco on the East, with the famed Golden Gate joining them. In all cosmopolitan America, there is no place more cosmopolitan, none more pronounced in its individuality. San Francisco is a world city. It is a truly American city, yet within its confines are sections of the cities of tile world. Here where the rugged spirit of the pioneer still survives, you may hear on the streets a medley of the tongues of the world. Different in everything — territory, climate and people. In speaking of San Francisco, the metropolitan area, or what is better known as (jreater San Francisco, is often referred to. The city itself is a consolidated city and county occupying 46V-) square miles. After the fire of 1906 several thousand people moved across the ba,\' to Alameda County. Here are the three cities of Oakland, Alameda and Berkeley, witli a combined population of 350,000. There are 60,000 people in Marin County to the north and San Mateo County to the south. These comprise the Greater San Francisco which exists today in ever\' form except politically. It is a community of well over one million people and would be the fifth largest city in the United States if it existed politically. The climate is one of San Francisco's biggest assets. Light overcoats and furs can be worn the year around, or belts and soft shirts can take their place — according to your constitution. Blizzards, hurricanes, tor- nadoes, floods, heat prostrations, and sunstroke are unknown. There are no long, cold winters with streets covered with snow, nor hot, sultry summers when living is insufferable. One's own personal comfort counts for a great deal in this life. When you can secure food which would be considered a luxury in most parts of tile world at reasonable prices, and comfort as well, then life is worth while. Daily shipments are received of fresh eggs, milk, butter, meat, fruit, fish, crabs, lobsters, oysters and poultry. These are not cold storage shipments but consignments fresli from source of supply less than a hundred miles away. The Golden Gate bids you welcome. After you have seen San Francisco and environs, before you start for the south, yo to Yosemite National Park. That great gash in the rock ribbed heigiits of the high Sierras, holds a lasting fascination for the tourish and traveler who has been so fortunate as to visit and behold its magnificence. Covering an area of more than 700, 000 acres at an altitude of from 4,000 to 9,000 feet it embraces a region of sheer precipices, majestic peaks, thundering waters, giant trees and entrancing valleys. The witchery and grandeur of this National Playground is beyond description. If you have gazed upon its wonders, any mere description would sound flat, and if you have not witnessed the awe inspiring pan- orama which spreads before you, when passing the portals to this peaceful region, any attempt to detail its wonders would sound flowery. To appreciate this wonderland you must view the towering pinnacles and domes of rock ; the lacy waterfalls, winding rivers and Hower bedecked meadows ; the forest of giant Sequoias — the oldest living things. A visit to this sanctuary will prove an inspiration and make more hearty your affection and admiration for America. All of this glorious wilderness is in easy reach of every traveler. Good automobile roads enter the Yosemite Valley from both sides. Ever since the Park was opened to automobiles, an increasing number of vis- itors have come in their own cars. After seeing Yosemite you can take the central route through Fresno and Bakersfield; or tiie Coast route through San Jose, Salinas and Santa Barbara to Los Angeles. LOS ANGELES The "City of the Angels" — the wonder city. Probably the most talked of city in America. In .35 years Los Angeles jumped from 11,000 to 7 00,000 in population and is still on the jump. You are sure to meet many people you know on the streets of this city. Thousands of tourists visit Los Angeles every year; many stay. Some return East for a short time, but the majority of those go back, and in a year they could not be pried loose. Why? Well, I don't know. I suppose it is a combination of a lot of things — chiefly climate. It is a nice place to live, especially if you enjoy balmy, sunshiny days and cool nights. If you are a motor enthusiast and enjoy touring, you will And splendid roads leading in every direction and plenty of places of interest to keep you busy for a long time. The cost of living is about on a par with the East. A fairly goocl apartment can be had for from $60.00 to iplOO.OO per month. Food, cloth- ing and furniture are perhaps a trifle cheapei' than in the East. Broadway in Los Angeles is in my opinion a far more attractive tliorofare than Broadway in New York. Traffic is dense and a serious problem and strange motorists sliould use extreme caution. Many people are under the impression that Los Angeles is a rich man's town. I can't see it in that light at all. Of course it is nice if you have money enough to live in comfort without working — that holds good in the East as well as the West — but it seemed to me that those who have a special training of some kind were employed if they cared to be. So many eastern people are talking about going to California to live that you often hear someone say, "There won't be room for all of them." Don't worry about that. Tiiere is plenty of room for millions more. Again, the average easterner imagines when he enters the state he will be in paradise, and is greatly disappointed; because there are plenty of barren hills and desert spots, as well as beautiful dream places. I was one of the disappointed ones, but hope to go back and reside there. When you arrive at Los Angeles, take a trip over the King's Highway to San Diego, and down into old Mexico. From Toledo, Oliio, to Los Angeles, California, with all side trips included, the speedometer registered 6,150 miles. Gasoline and oil cost $187.56. Wear and repairs on tires at least $275.00. Relining brakes and minor repairs, $31.00. Repainting car, $125.00. Depreciation at least $500.00. Making a total cost of transportation for myself, wife and child, $1,118.56. Camp equipage, including the trailer that I stored in St. Paul, cost $652.00. We were on the road just one hundred and twenty-five days from the time we left Toledo till we arrived in Los Angeles, but only eighty of them were driving days. The longest di'ive we made in one day was 180 miles, and there were days when we rolled up only 50 or 60 miles, and lucky to do that well. We spent a little over three months touring California. The weather was delightful up to December 17tli, when the rainy season set in at Los Angeles. We tiien decided to return East for the Holidays, so I turned my cai' over to tiie Automobile Club of Southern California for shipment, purchased tickets over the Union Pacific line and started for home. The entire trip of seven months and ten days, including railroad fares and freight ciiarges for tlie return of my automobile, cost $3,600.00, but it was a wonderful trip and money well spent. Of course it is cheapei' and easier to travel by rail; but you will not see tile things from a train that you can from your own car; neither will you have the pleasure of touring and camping. If you go by rail, and want a car in Caifornia — and nearly everyone does — either ship yours by freight in care of the Automobile Club in Los Angeles, or buy or rent a used one on your arrival, and sell it when through. The market is flooded with used cars and they can be had for $100. (tH up ; or you can rent a Ford for $3.00 per day. If you don't want a car of your own you can see all the territory around Los Angeles from the busses operated by real estate firms, with a chicken dinner thrown in; and all free. Up to the beginning of the great war Americans were more anxious to see Europe than their own country. So was I. But after covering- considerable of both by rail and motor, I believe there are more wonderful and beautiful things to be seen right here at home than abroad. Anyhow "SEE AMERICA FIRST" and See the Great Northwest, "The Wonderland of the World" VIEW IN YELLOWSTUNE PARK ROOSEVELT'S COTTAGE A TRIP TO THE Atlantic Coast FROM TOLEDO TO AND THROUGH THE NEW ENGLAND STATES AND FROM MAINE DOWN THE COAST TO FLORIDA WILL BE MADE BY MR. BETTIS DURING THE SUMMER OF 1922 THE STORY WILL BE READY BY DECEMBER THEATRE and SCHOOL AUDITORIUM MANAGERS AUTOMOBILE and COMMERCE CLUBS MR. WM. CHARLES BETTIS IS NOW DELIVERING Illustrated Lectures ON HIS WESTERN TRIP STILL AND MOTION PICTURES EVERY MOTORIST IS INTERESTED FOR OPEN TIME AND TERMS WRITE HIM ADDRESS: TOLEDO, OHIO THIS IS THE PULLMAN BERTH OUTFIT CALLED "Jiffy Auto Tent" I purchased in Spokane, and used the remainder of the trip. Y: ',4 It is 9V2 X 7 feet, with a dressing or dining room 5'2 x 7 feet; and accommodates four people. I do not know the price this season ; but I do know, whatever it is, you will save several times on hotel bills. T?»^i^p^^ It is very compact and neat, and the whole thing packs in a box 12x12x48 inches, and when touring is carried on the foot-board of the car. When in camp, the packing box opens up and makes a table. If you are interested, write F. O. BERG CO. &^ffi£LWi.sh For price, and Name of Dealer in your City. \hp^'^ ^92^ ACROSS THE CONTINENT BY AUT'^^tmrttf THROUGH THE limmmm,mL.^°^^'^^SS "WONDERLAND OF THE WO i i OUR GREAT NORTt.'^'^ss'sra, THE HIGH ROCKIES AND THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS SPOKANE SEATTLE TACOMA MOUNT RAINIER PORTLAND THE COLUMBIA RIVER HIGHWAY DOWN INTO AND THROUGH WONDERFUL CALIFORNIA TO OLD MEXICO HOW TO MAKE THE TRIP BY AUTOMOBILE THINGS TO BE SEEN ADVENTURES AND CAMP GROUNDS ON THE WAY TOURING YELLOWSTONE PARK O^MMi