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 Testing Flour. 
 
 BRANDING FLOim 
 

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 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S 
 
 NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
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 COPYRIGHT, 1894. 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO., 
 
 PUBLISHERS, 
 MINNEAPOLIS, MINN. 
 
WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BpOK. 
 
 The (Oisine 
 
 . . . WILL BE . . . 
 
 _PE-RFEeTIO/N ITSELF 
 
 IF 
 
 Washburn, 
 
 Crosby Go's 
 
 mm 
 
 mm 
 
 IS USED. 
 
 Beautiful 
 
 BREAD, 
 ROLLS, 
 BISCUIT, 
 PUDDINGS. 
 
 EVEKy GOOD GROeE-R SELLS 
 
 Washburn, Crosby Co.'s Klcmr. 
 
The making of stock calls for no more than the ordinary 
 amount of skill and attention and it should not be thought 
 either a mystery or a trouble. A crock of well made stock is 
 indispensable for the soups and sauces required in every well 
 ordered household. It is well worth planning for. 
 
 In the first place then the material is to be considered. Meat 
 and bones for soup should be perfectly fresh, and about equal 
 in proportion; hock or shin of beef, ends of rib roasts, and 
 portions of the neck or shoulder are all suitable, although coarse 
 and cheap. The first mentioned furnish chiefly gelatine, the 
 latter give flavor. A knuckle of veal and the bit of bone 
 trimmed from a leg of mutton with a few ounces of lean ham 
 or smoked beef may be added. Examine carefully and cut 
 out any bits that are at all stale or discolored by the hang- 
 ing hook. Sponge the outside skinny portion with a cloth 
 wrung out of warm water, but do not wet the freshly cut sur- 
 faces of meat. Scrape with a dull knife and wipe again with a 
 clean cloth. Cut the meat from the bones and put them in the 
 soup kettle, having first inverted in it a perforated pie plate to 
 keep the bones from resting on the bottom of the kettle. This, 
 by the way, should always be of aluminum or agate ware, never 
 of iron. It should have a closely fitting cover, and if larger 
 than three gallons there should be two handles. The meat 
 should be cut into half inch slices, across the grain, and laid 
 upon the bones, cold water put in and the kettle placed where 
 it will be at least one hour in coming to a boil. By this 
 time the juice will be well drawn from the meat and the bones 
 heated through. It may be allowed to boil gently for five 
 minutes and then the kettle must be pushed back where it will 
 simmer steadily for not less than eight hours. After cooking 
 two hours seasoning should be added; a level teaspoon of salt 
 and four peppercorns to each quart of water. After it has 
 been strained, the meat and bones simmered another two hours 
 with two quarts of water will yield a stock of lighter quality 
 but of much value, which can be used in making bean porridge, 
 tomato or pea soup. This stock should be cooled as quickly 
 as may be — in warm weather set in a pan of cold water. Do 
 not break the cake of fat on the surface until the stock is needed 
 for use. When cold set in the ice box. 
 
 To Prepare Stock for Use. 
 
 If the cover of the soup pot fitted closely and the soup was 
 not allowed to boil, there should be about five quarts of soup in 
 the first crock. Contrary to the usual custom, this has been 
 seasoned only with pepper and salt and is really a plain beef 
 broth. It needs more color and flavor. Take off the fat and 
 dip out carefully one quart of the broth, boil over a quick fire 
 until it is reduced to one-fourth, then simmer carefully until it 
 has a thick, syrupy consistence and has changed to a reddish 
 brown color. The rest of the stock may now be added. A bay 
 leaf, two or three sprays of parsley, half a blade of mace, any or 
 all may be added or a few sprigs of thyme, summer savory, or 
 marjoram. Vegetables may be added in the proportion of one- 
 half tablespoon each of onion, carrot and turnip to each quart of 
 soup. These should be cut rather fine and thoroughly scalded 
 before putting into the soup. After simmering an hour it can 
 be strained again and put away, it may be drawn off the fire 
 and allowed to settle, two and a half or even three quarts of 
 the clear stock dipped off for future use and the remainder 
 served as a vegetable soup. 
 
 To Clear Soup-Stock. 
 
 Remove the fat, and allow the white and shell of one egg fur 
 every quart of stock. If you wish to flavor the stock more 
 highly, add half a saltspoon of celery-seed and the thinnest 
 possible shavings from the rind of half a lemon. Add also the 
 lemon-juice, and more salt and pepper if needed. Mix celery- 
 seed, lemon, egg, etc., with the cold stock, and beat it well. If 
 the stock be hot when the egg is added, the egg will harden 
 before it has done its work. This is the point where many 
 fail. Set it over the fire and stir it all the time until it is hot, 
 to keep the egg from settling. Then leave it and let it boil ten 
 minutes. By this time a thick scum will have formed, and as 
 it breaks the liquid will be clear and sparkling, like wine, and 
 darker than before. Draw it back on the stove, and add half a 
 cup of cold water. Let it stand ten minutes, while you get 
 your jar, colander, and fine napkin ready for straining. Wring 
 the napkin out of hot water, and lay it over the colander. Tut 
 the finest wire strainer on the napkin, and then pour it all 
 through. The strainer will catch the scum and shells which 
 would otherwise clog the napkin. Let it take its own time to 
 drain, but if you must hasten it, raise the napkin first at one 
 corner and then at another, and let the liquid run down to a 
 clean place. This is better than squeezing. This is all ready to 
 serve as a clear soup by simply heating to the boiling-point. 
 Serve with it, in the tureen, thin slices of lemon, a glass of 
 sherry, yolks of hard-boiled eggs, or delicate flavored force meat 
 balls; or put on each plate a poached egg, or a spoonful of 
 grated Parmesan cheese. 
 
 Thickening for Soups. 
 
 Simps are thickened with flour, corn-starch, or rice-ilour; one 
 tablespoon for a quart of soup— heaping, if flour; scant, if rice- 
 flour or corn-starch. Flour is the cheapest, but corn-stanh 
 gives a smoother consistency. Mix the flour with a very little 
 cold water or milk until it is a smooth paste, then add more 
 liquid until it can be poured easily into the boiling soup. 
 Remember to boil the soup fifteen or twenty minutes after the 
 thickening is added, that there may be no raw taste of the llour. 
 Where butter and flour are used, put the butter in a small 
 saucepan, and when melted and bubbling stir in the flour quickly 
 until smooth (be careful not to brown the butter for any white 
 soup); then add gradually about a cup of the hot soup, letting it 
 boil and thicken as you add the soup. It should be thin enough 
 to pour. In vegetable soups, or purees, as soon as the hot but- 
 ter and flour are blended, they may be stirred at once into the 
 soup. This is what is meant in many of the receipts by thick- 
 ening with butter and flour which have been cooked together. 
 The hot butter cooks the flour more thoroughly than it can be 
 cooked in any other way. When a brown thickening is desired, 
 melt the butter and let it become as brown as it will without 
 burning, then add all the flour at once and stir quickly, that 
 every particle of it may be moistened in the hot butter: add the 
 water or soup gradually. Flour that is browned while dry, 
 either in the oven or over the fire, colors, but does not thicken. 
 A certain amount of moisture, of either fat or water, is neces- 
 sary with the heat to thoroughly swell the grains of starch in 
 the flour. Thickened soups should be about the consistency of 
 good cream. Purees are thicker. 
 
 Soup may be thickened with bread instead of plain flour, 
 corn-starch or arrow-root. AVhen this is done, force meat, egg 
 or spinach balls may be served in it instead of vegetables. Tb' 
 
WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 French and German rules for Garbures say that the bread should 
 be saturated with broth and fs' from the top of the pot, and 
 baked until the broth has evaporated and the crusts are slightly 
 browned This is not recommended. The bread should be 
 dried and browned slightly and added to a small amount of 
 stock, simmered until soft and crushed to a panada with a 
 wooden spoon or potato masher, then diluted with more stock. 
 An ounce of dried bread or two tablespoons dried bread crumbs 
 for a quart finished soup will be quite as thick as most people 
 like it; strain again if wanted perfectly smooth. 
 
 The German rye bread is excellent for this purpose. It may 
 be used with stock, or simply boiled in water and enriched with 
 eggs. The true German seasoning is caraway seed and caramel. 
 The sugar should not be browned enough to destroy its 
 
 Glaze is simply clear stock boiled down to one-fourth of its 
 original amount. Put two quarts of rich, strong stock into a 
 saucepan, and boil it uncovered until reduced to one pint. It 
 should have a gluey consistency, and will keep a month if put 
 in a closely covered jar in a cool place. It is useful in browning 
 meats which have not been colored by cooking, but which we 
 wish to have the appearance of having been roasted or browned. 
 
 For enriching a weak stock or gravy, or adding llavor and 
 consistency to sauces, there is nothing that can take its place. 
 
 Plain Brown Soup Stock. 
 
 Six pounds shin of beef in the proportion of four pounds 
 lean meat to two pounds bone, gristle, etc., six quarts cold 
 water, one-half a chili (red pepper), one large onion, one table- 
 spoonful salt. Wipe the meat with 1 wet cloth, cut it from the 
 bone and into thin slices across the grain. Reserve several of 
 the largest slices with all tne marrow, put remainder of meat 
 and bones into six quarts of cold water with the spices and 
 herbs Set one side of the fire, where it will be at least an hour 
 in coming to the boil. If convenient broil the reserved slices 
 till verv brown before adding; if not, fry them in the marrow, 
 being very careful not to let the fat scorch. Simmer eight to 
 ten hours and strain. The next day remove the fat and use the 
 stock plain for a beef broth or with macaroni or vermicelli, 
 rice, vegetables, etc., according to taste. 
 
 Clear Soup Stock, for Consomme. 
 
 Add four pounds knuckle of veal or a small fowl to the 
 above rule, with two ounces lean ham or a bone of bacon. 
 Brown only the onion, in order to have the soup light colored. 
 After removing the fat add the beaten white and shell ot one 
 egf to each quart of jelly, with one saltspoonful celery seed, a 
 few bits of lemon rind, one teaspoonful lemon juice. Mix well 
 together, bring to a boil as quickly as possible, stirring very 
 often. Simmer ten minutes more, strain through a thick 
 napkin and heat to the boiling point before serving. It should 
 be sparkling clear and of a light brown or straw color. 
 
 Beef Puree. 
 
 One pint good beef broth, boil in it one tablespoon scalded 
 sago until soft and partially dissolved, add the yolk of an egg 
 mixed with a little broth, heat for three minutes, stirring in 
 also two ounces of tender raw beef, perfectly free from tat and 
 reduced to a pulp. 
 
 Bouillon. 
 
 For receptions or other large parties, is simply beef tea on a 
 large scale and should be prepared like a plain soup stock, 
 allowing one pound of meat and bone to each pint of broth, 
 season with pepper, salt, celery and onion if liked, but other 
 vegetable flavors are too suggestive of a dinner soup It is best 
 made the day before it is to be served. Set on ice over night 
 and remove every atom of grease while cold. Reheat to the 
 boiling point before serving, adding more seasoning if needed 
 and strain through a thick napkin to remove sediment. 
 
 Summer Julienne. 
 
 One quart consomme, one half cup cooked onion cut in rings, 
 one-half cup of cooked peas, one-half cup asparagus tips, one- 
 half cup cooked string beans, salt and pepper if needed. Heat 
 the vegetables and put them into the tureen; pour boiling soup 
 over them. 
 
 Winter Julienne. 
 
 One quart of brown stock, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one 
 
 pint mixed vegetables, one-half saltspoonful pepper. Cut the 
 
 '■elery and turnip into dice, can-- into match-shaped pieces. 
 
 r -»eonly the very smallest oni« chshould be rutin halves, 
 
 so that the layers will separate in cups. Cabbage should be 
 coarsely chopped. Cook the vegetables in boiling salted water 
 till tender, but not broken. Drain them and add to the soup a 
 few minutes before serving. Macaroni, vermicelli, rice, 
 tapioca, sago and barley should all be cooked till tender in 
 boiling salted water before adding to the soup, aud then 
 allowed to simmer a few minutes to season through. 
 
 Oxtail Soup. 
 
 Wash and cut up two oxtails, separating them at the joints. 
 Select about half of the largest and nicest joints to brown in 
 hot fat before cooking. Simmer in enough water to cover 
 well until perfectly tender. Take out the browned joints and 
 boil the rest to rags; strain, cool and remove fat. Re-heat this 
 stock, adding one quart strong brown stock, more salt and 
 pepper if needed, and the reserved joints. It should be served 
 boiling hot. 
 
 Jugged Soup. 
 
 This is a delicious soup, a little after the order of a Bruns- 
 wick stew. Boil any carcasses of cold fowl, bones of roast meat 
 or steak, with the trimmings, in three quarts of water, till 
 reduced to two. Strain, cool and take off the fat. Slice six 
 potatoes very thin and lay in a gallon stone jar with lid. Lay 
 on these a sliced onion, three sliced tomatoes or a cup of 
 canned, a sliced turnip, a cup of canned . peas, a grated carrot, 
 another cup of tomato, and quarter of a cup of raw rice. On 
 each layer should have been sprinkled seasoning made by mix- 
 ing one tablespoonful each of salt and sugar, half a teaspoon- 
 ful of pepper, and a pinch of allspice. Pour the broth over all, 
 put on the lid, and cover the edges with a thick paste to keep 
 in the steam. Set the jar in a pan of hot water, put all in the 
 oven, and cook from four to six hours. Pour all into tureen 
 and serve with crisped crackers. 
 
 Left Over Soup. 
 
 Bones and trimmings from a roast of beef, beefsteak bones 
 and trimmings, mutton chop bones, any cold vegetables except 
 squash, cold cooked eggs in any shape, crusts of bread. There 
 should be about six pounds of meat altogether; add whatever 
 gravy was left over and four quarts of cold water; add one- 
 half teaspoonful celery seed, one tablespoonful salt, one clove, 
 four peppercorns, and simmer eight or teu hours till the meat 
 is in rags and the water reduced one-half. Strain and set away 
 for stock. 
 
 Calf's Head or Mock Turtle. 
 
 One calf's head cleaned with the skin on, cut in halves, and 
 well washed in salt aud water. Remove the brains and tie them 
 in coarse muslin to be cooked separately; boil in four quarts of 
 water till the meat is tender and ready to slip from the bones. 
 Lay the meat Hat on a platter, return bones to the pot and boil 
 till the water is reduced to two quarts, then strain and cool. 
 Remove fat and return to the lire with two quarts rich brown 
 stock, two whole cloves, a blade of mace, six allspice berries, 
 one chili, more salt if needed. While this issimmering cut the 
 meat and tongue into dice; there should be a generous pint; 
 chop the trimmings to a paste; cook the brains twenty minutes 
 and pound with the chopped meat, season with salt, pepper and 
 thyme, add a little beaten egg to bind it well together and 
 shape in balls size of a large hickory nut and fry them brown 
 in a little butter. Brown four tablespoonf uls Hour in two table- 
 spoonfuls butter or bacon fat and add hot soup to it slowly, 
 stiring well till smooth; add it to the stock. Put meatballs 
 and diced meat into a hot tnreen and strain the boiling stock 
 over them. As one head is enough for a gallon of soup it will 
 pay to put a part of it into glass jars exactly as you would 
 fruit. This soup is usually served with very thin slices of 
 lemon, and sometimes a teaspoon of catsup in it. 
 
 Hunter's Soup of Grouse. 
 
 Cut off in neat bits as much as possible of the meat from 
 two grouse that have been served for a roast and reserve them. 
 Break up all the bones and trimmings, a rabbit, an old fowl, 
 two pounds of soup beef, four ounces of ham, and put them 
 in the soup-pot with a garnishing of vegetables, salt, thyme, 
 bay-leaf, pepper-corns, blade of mace, a leaf of sage, two 
 cloves, a pint of cider and eight quarts of water. Start slowly, 
 skim well, cover and let simmer gently for three to four hours, 
 strain and free the broth from fat, soak a pound of bread in 
 cold water, press the water out and cook the bread in a sauce- 
 pan with four ounces of butter till it is a thick dough. Dilute 
 with game broth to the desired consistency, rub through a 
 sieve, stir, boil and skim again, finish with an ounce of butter 
 and a pinch of red pepper, pour into the soup tureen, add the 
 reserved pieces and serve. 
 
■' 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 White Soup (From Chicken) 
 
 3 or 4 pounds fowl. 
 3 quarts cold water. 
 1 tablespoon salt. 
 (J peppercorns. 
 
 1 tablespoon chopped onion. 
 
 2 tablespoons chopped celery. 
 
 l pint cream. 
 
 l tablespoon butter. 
 
 1 tablespoon corn-starch. 
 
 1 teaspoon salt. 
 
 1 saltspoon white pepper. 
 
 2 eggs. 
 
 Singe, clean and wipe the fowl. Cut off the legs and wings, 
 and disjoint the body Put it on to boil in cold water. Let it 
 come to a boil quickly, because we wish to use the meat as well 
 as the water, and skim thoroughly. The meat may be removed 
 ulna tender, and the bones put on to boil again. (Use the 
 meat for croquettes or other made dishes.) Add the salt and 
 vegetables. Simmer until reduced one-half. Strain and when 
 cool remove the fat. For one quart of stock allow one pint of 
 cream or milk. If cream, use a little less Hour for thickening. 
 Boil the stock, add the butter and Hour, cooked together, and 
 the seasoning. Strain it over the eggs, stirring as you pour, or 
 the eggs will curdle. The liquor in which a fowl or chicken 
 has been boiled, when not wanted for any other purpose, 
 should be saved for white soup. If the vegetables and spices 
 are not boiled with the fowl, fry them live minutes without 
 burning, add them to the stock, and simmer fifteen minutes. — 
 From Mrs. Lincoln's "Boston Cook-Book." 
 
 Easy Soupe a la Reine. 
 
 Take a small, cold, roast chicken and cut all the meat from 
 the bones, chopping it line as possible. In the meantime put 
 all the bones in two quarts of cold water, and boil slowly for 
 two hours. Add a cup of boiled rice to the meat and pound all 
 together to a pidp. Strain the broth on it; stir well and rub 
 through a puree sieve. When wanted bring only to boiling 
 point, add a gill of good cream, and season with a teaspoon of 
 salt and a pinch of white pepper. 
 
 Veal-Stock. 
 
 6 pound knuckle of veal. Celery root, or 
 
 4 quarts cold water. % teaspoon celery seed. 
 
 1 tablespoon salt. 1 onion. 
 
 ti peppercorns. 
 
 Wipe the veal, cut the meat fine and break the bones. Put it 
 
 into the kettle with the cold water. Skim as it boils, and when 
 
 . clear add the seasoning. Simmer until the bones are clean and 
 
 the liquor reduced one-half. Strain, and when cool remove the 
 
 fat. Use it for white or delicate soups. 
 
 Veal and Tapioca Soup. 
 
 For this is required two and a half pounds of neck of veal, 
 well broken and the meat in small pieces, two (tip chopped 
 onions, one tip) chopped turnip, two stalks of celery, one tea- 
 spoon of pepper and two of salt, one bit of mace and three 
 quarts of cold water. Put all over and boil slowly and steadily 
 for four hours, have a teacup of pearl tapioca soaking in a 
 little milk. Strain the soup, skim off all fat, put in the tapioca 
 and boil half an hour, stiring it till it has melted. 
 
 Potage Diaphane. 
 
 Cut all the meat from a large knuckle of veal, four to six 
 pounds. Break the bones and put them with the meat in a 
 soup pot, stone jar or granite-ware kettle, with a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, two tablespoon salt, a pinch of mace, half a pound 
 of sweet almonds blanched and pounded and four quarts of 
 water. Set on back of range and let it stand till next day, 
 keeping it just below boiling point. It must be hot, but not 
 even simmer, or it will be grey. Next day strain off and boil 
 for two hours or till reduced to two quarts, skimming care- 
 fully. Strain and cool. Pour off all that will come without 
 sediment, heat to boiling point and pour into the tureen on two 
 ounces of vermicelli boiled until very tender. 
 
 Velvet Soup. 
 
 One quart of any kind of good stock, one cup cream, sea- 
 soned to taste, pour it boiling hot on the beaten yolks of four 
 eggs, diluted with 0116-half cup cream Ke-heat and serve at 
 once in bouillon cups. 
 
 Mutton Soup with Barley. 
 
 Put all the trimmings from a fore quarter of mutton (neck, 
 bones of the shoulder, breast, trimmings of the chops, etc.) in a 
 saucepan with two pounds soup-beef, one tablespoon salt, eight 
 pepper-corns, a bunch of sweet herbs, a quartered carrot, an 
 onion stuck with three cloves, a small turnip, two leeks and a 
 
 stalk of celery; add six quarts cold water and simmer three or 
 four hours. Meanwhile wash well and boil separately four ounces 
 of barley in one quart salted water two hours. . Cut meat from 
 the shoulder in dice and cook it also separately in broth for an 
 hour Drain the meat over the mutton-broth, drain also the 
 barley, skim the fat from the broth and strain three quarts of 
 the broth over the meat and barley. Boil ten minutes, adding 
 more seasoning if needed, color with a little caramel and serve 
 hot. 
 
 Thick Vegetable Soup, 
 
 One quart of sediment left from clear soup, one qua 
 water, quarter cup of pearl barley, one cup each of diced 
 turnip, carrot, celery, onion, cabbage and potatoes, salt and 
 pepper. 
 
 Wash the barley and let it come to the boil, pour off the lirst 
 water and add the quart; let simmer gently for two hours. Then 
 add all the vegetables (except the potatoes and celery) scalding 
 them first in boiling water. Boil gently till nearly tender 
 then add potatoes and celery with salt and pepper. Cook 30 
 minutes longer or till all are tender. 
 
 Tomato Soup with Stock. 
 
 Take the bones and trimmings from a roast-beef dinner and 
 any other scraps of meat or bone you may chance to have. Put 
 them in a kettle and cover with cold water, twice as much 
 water as meat. Add two onions, two whole cloves, six pepper- 
 corns, a bit of celery root if you have it, and a tablespoon of 
 salt. When it has cooked four hours, skim off all the fat, and 
 add six tomatoes sliced, or one quart of canned tomatoes. Cook 
 another hour, then skim out the bones and meat, and strain 
 the liquor through a puree-strainer, rubbing all the tomato-pulp 
 through. Heat again and thicken with flour, one tablespoon 
 each of butter and Hour for every quart of broth. 
 
 Okra Soup. 
 
 One quart okra, two quarts tomatoes, five lbs. shin of beef, cay- 
 enne pepper and salt. Cut the okra in short bits, skin and slice 
 the tomato. Cut the meat in thin slices across the grain, and put 
 all together with five quarts cold water. Bring to a boil and 
 simmer steadily for six or seven hours. Skim well at first, add 
 the salt and pepper at the end of the first hour. Remove all 
 bones and unsightly pieces and skim off the grease before 
 serving. 
 
 Puree of Chestnuts. 
 
 1 pint chestnuts. 
 1 pint milk. 
 1 cup cream. 
 
 1 tablespoon butter. 
 Salt and pepper, 
 legg. 
 
 Shell and blanch the chestnuts. Cook in boiling salted water 
 to cover, till very soft. Mash them in the water left in the pan, 
 and rub them through a tine strainer into the mile. Heat 
 again, add the cream, salt and pepper to taste, and when ready 
 to serve stir the beaten egg in quickly and serve at once with 
 croutons. Add more milk if too thick. — Mrs. D. A. Lincoln. 
 
 Black Bean Soup. 
 
 Soak over night one-half pint black beans. Put them on to 
 boil in three pints of w r ater, adding one-half saltspoon soda if 
 the water is hard. When the beans begin to soften pour the 
 water away and renew, adding some bits of fat meat; ham is 
 good but not more than an ounce of any kind should be used. 
 Add one small onion sliced and one clove. It may boil fast 
 and the beans may be mashed with a potato masher; do not try 
 to strain until perfectly soft or the soup will have a granular 
 feeling on the tongue, and it should be as smooth as cream. 
 Strain through a fine sieve. Add more water or stock if it is 
 thicker than "liked. Season to taste and serve over hard boiled 
 eggs cut in quarters, and the thinnest possible slices of lemon. 
 
 Oyster Soup. 
 
 Prepare foundation as for soups made with milk, omitting 
 onion and celery, and using two tablespoons Hour. Put one 
 quart oysters in a large bowl and pour over them one cup 
 water take out each oyster with the lingers to make sure no 
 shell adheres to it and drain in the colander. Strain the oyster 
 liquor through the finest strainer, put it on to boil and skim 
 well add the oysters and simmer till they grow plump and 
 beci'n to curl on V ^dges. Add oysters to foundation with as 
 much of the b s will make it of the right consistency. 
 
 Add more sal' ..u pepper if needed and all the butter it will 
 bearwithout Moating on the top. Crackers browned in the oven 
 are good with this soup. 
 
WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 Shrimp Soup. 
 
 Parboil one quart of oysters, strain the liquor and put it on 
 to boil with one pint of water or veal stock. Thicken with one 
 tablespoon of flour cooked in one tablespoon of hot butter, 
 and add salt, pepper and cayenne to taste. Frepare one pint 
 canned shrimps, remove the black vein and cut them line. 
 Add them to the soup. Simmer five minutes then put in the 
 oysters and half a cup of rich cream, and when hot serve. 
 
 Corn Chowder, No. 2. 
 
 tablespoons Hour, 
 pint milk, 
 pint croutons, 
 hard-boiled eggs. 
 
 1 quart raw sweet corn. 
 1 pint potato dice. 
 1 teaspoon salt. 
 1 saltspoon pepper. 
 i cup butter. 
 
 Cut each row of kernels, and scrape the raw corn from the 
 cob. Boil the cobs twenty minutes in water to cover. Pare and 
 cut the potatoes into small dice. Pour boiling water over 
 them, drain and let them stand while the corncobs are boiling. 
 Remove the cobs, add the potatoes, salt and pepper. When the 
 potatoes are nearly done, add the corn and milk and cook five 
 minutes. Cook the flour in the hot butter, add one cup of the 
 corn liquor, and when thick stir it into the chowder. Add the 
 eggs, whites chopped fine, and yolks rubbed through a strainer. 
 Serve with croutons.— Mrs. D. A. Lincoln. 
 
 Soups Made with Milk. 
 
 (Foundation for Soups Made with Milk). 
 
 One quart milk, one tablespoon butter, one teaspoon chopped 
 onion, one-half tablespoon flour, one stalk celery, one teaspoon 
 salt, one-half saltspoon white pepper, speck of cayenne, one-half 
 teaspoonful celery salt. Cook milk, onion and celery twenty 
 minutes in double boiler; cook the flour and butter together five 
 minutes, being careful not to brown it, then pour it into the 
 soup; add the seasoning and it is ready to finish in any way. 
 
 Mock Bisque. 
 
 simmer one-half quart can of tomatoes till very soft, strain 
 it and pour into the foundation after the latter has been 
 strained into the tureen. Most palates prefer the addition of 
 one-half teaspoonful sugar to the tomatoes. 
 
 Potato Soup. 
 
 Add three boiled potatoes, mashed very fine, to the founda- 
 tion; rub through a sieve into hot tureen. 
 
 Celery Soup. 
 
 Add one pint stewed and sifted celery to the foundation and 
 strain over one egg beaten to a cream, stirring well. 
 
 Cream of Celery Soup, No. 2. 
 
 Two pounds of veal; a small slice of ham or a ham bone, one 
 large bunch of celery, one pint of milk, two tablespoons of 
 butter; one onion, one teaspoon of sugar, two tablespoons of 
 cornstarch dissolved in a little cold water, three quarts of 
 water, salt and pepper. Chop the meat; fry the onion after 
 mincing it, in the butter, till a light brown. Chop the celery 
 and put all over with the water and seasoning; a teaspoon 
 of salt to the quart, and a saltspoon of pepper. As soon as 
 the celery is soft, it is to be rubbed through a sieve, and may 
 stand till the meat is boiled to rags which will require at least 
 four hours. Then strain, add the sugar and the celery with the 
 milk, and when at boiling point, the cornstarch and the butter. 
 Boil up once and serve. 
 
 Duchess Soup. 
 
 One quart of milk, two onions, three eggs, two tablespoons 
 of butter, two of flour, salt, pepper, two tablespoons of grated 
 cheese. Put milk on to boil. Fry the butter and onions to- 
 gether for eight minutes; then add dry flour, and cook two 
 minutes longer, being careful not to burn. Blend with the 
 milk, and cook ten minutes. Rub through a strainer, and re- 
 turn to the fire. Now add the cheese. Season to taste with 
 salt and pepper. Beat the eggs, dilute with two tablespoons of 
 soup, strain, and pour slowly into the soup, stirring it briskly. 
 It must not boil again but should stand hot for three minutes. 
 — Miss Parloqis "Mew Cook-Book." 
 
 pirn 
 
 celery 
 r ie only t. 
 
 Puree of Cucumbers. 
 
 Pare three or four cucumbers, according to size; cut in slices 
 and boil five minutes; drain and cook in a sautoir with four 
 ounces of butter, salt, white pepper and nutmeg; set to boil, 
 cover and let simmer gently for one hour. Sprinkle four 
 ounces of flour over, mix well and dilute with two quarts boil- 
 ing milk and a quart veal broth; stir steadily and boil ten min- 
 utes. Press through a puree sieve, return it to the sautoir and 
 heat till near boiling. Add two ounces butter, cut in small bits, 
 one-half teaspoon sugar, one-half pint cream. Serve with 
 croutons in the tureen. 
 
 Cream of Asparagus Soup. 
 
 For this delicious soup will be needed one small can of aspar- 
 agus and two quarts of white stock. Melt in a large 
 saucepan two tablespoon of butter, and when it boils stir 
 in three of flour. Stir perfectly smooth, gradually adding the 
 broth. Cut off the tips of the asparagus and set aside, adding 
 the rest to the broth witti six pepper-corns and a teaspoon 
 of salt. Boil for half an hour; strain through a sieve, add the 
 asparagus tips and half a cup of cream; bring to boiling-point 
 and serve very hot. Often this soup is served with croutons 
 souffiSs, which are simply puff-paste rolled thin, cut in bits no 
 bigger than a small bean, and fried in boiling lard. Drain 
 them on brown paper and put into the soup at the last 
 moment. They can also, if preferred, be baked in a quick 
 oven, and will be done in two minutes. 
 
 Soupe aux Choux. 
 
 The foundation of this soup is a rich bouillon blanc, or white 
 broth made as follows: A large knuckle of choice veal thor- 
 oughly cracked and covered with three quarts of cold water, 
 adding a tablespoon of salt. As it boils skim off every par- 
 ticle of scum. Add one well-scraped carrot, one white turnip, 
 three leeks, one well-cleaned parsley root, and two stalks of 
 firm celery. Boil very slowly for six hours, then strain through 
 a wet cloth into a stone jar, and when cold remove all the fat. 
 Choose a very small, firm, white cabbage, shred it fine and put 
 in a frying-pan in which a tablespoon of butter is boiling, 
 covering close for a few moments. Then add a pint of water 
 and stew half an hour, with a teaspoon of salt and half a 
 one of white pepper. Run then through a puree sieve. Bring 
 the white broth to boiling point, in the meantime making a 
 thickening of one tablespoonful of butter to which is added 
 two of flour, stiring it till smooth, but not browned. Add 
 boiling soup slowly, stirring it constantly till all is smooth and 
 creamy; then pour into the soup and add the puree of cabbage. 
 Half a cup of cream is often added. 
 
 Cream of Cauliflower Soup. 
 
 Heat one pint of chicken or veal stock, one pint of milk and 
 half a cup of sweet cream. When boiling, thicken with one 
 tablespoon of fine whole wheat flour, add salt and white pepper 
 to taste. Cook half a cauliflower in boiling salted water about 
 twenty minutes. Cut off the little flowerets, using none of the 
 i stalk, put in enough to thicken the broth. 
 
 Southern Chicken Soup. 
 
 Cut all the meat from a fowl weighing three pounds, reserve 
 the breast whole, cut the rest in small bits, break the bones and 
 put on with two quarts of water, putting the breast on top of 
 the other meat. Cook four hours, skimming often at first. 
 Take out the breast as soon as tender, strain and add three table- 
 spoons cooked rice, (there should be about three pints of broth), 
 the breast cut in dice and one teaspoon minced parsley, salt 
 and pepper as desired. 
 
 Soupe a. la Reine. 
 
 Boil a large fowl in three quarts of water until tender (the 
 water should never more than bubble). Skim off the fat, and 
 add a teacup of rice, and also a slice of carrot, one of turnip, 
 a small piece of celery, and an onion, which have been cooked 
 slowly for fifteen minutes in two large tablespoons of butter. 
 Skim this butter carefully from the vegetables, and into the 
 pan in which it is, stir a tablespoon of flour. Cook until smooth, 
 but not brown, add this with a small piece of mace. Cook 
 all together slowly for two hours. Chop and pound the breast 
 of the fowl very fine. Rub the soup through a fine sieve; add 
 the pounded breast and again rub the whole through a coarse 
 sieve. Put back on the fire and add one and a half tablespoons 
 of salt, a fourth of a teaspoon of pepper, and a pint of cream, 
 which has come just to a boil. Boil up once and serve. 
 
 an 
 r« 
 
'/- 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 Tortue Verte Claire, or, Clear Greet] Turtle Soup. 
 
 For this sonp the turtle should be killed and allowed to bleed 
 for twelve hours before using. The sides are to be opened, the 
 incut removed and cut in small pieces, which are to be blanched 
 live minutes in boiling water. If the turtle is medium sized, 
 lift off the top shell, lay it in the soup kettle and cover it with 
 white broth, made as in the previous rule. Add a spoonful of 
 whole peppers, one dozen cloves, half a bunch of thyme, and six 
 bay leaves, all to be tied in a cloth. Add two tablespoons of 
 salt, and boil for one hour. Strain the broth, remove the bones, 
 and cut the meat in squares the size of dice. Boil the broth till 
 reduced three quarters in quantity, then add the meat, and boil 
 ten minutes. This is the manner of preparing the whole turtle, 
 given by Delmonico. It is then put in small stone jars, and, 
 when cool, hot lard is poured over the top. It will keep a long 
 time, and simply requires heating when wanted. But for a 
 small quantity one can buy a pint of green-turtle meat in mar- 
 ket , and prepare it with a quart of white broth t and the same 
 treatment as for the whole turtle. A glassful of Madeira wine 
 is a great improvement. It can be served with or without the 
 meat, the latter making it clear green turtle. 
 
 Puree of Lentils. 
 
 Pick over three pints of lentils and soak over night in cold 
 water. In the morning drain and wash them well. Put to boil 
 and cook hard and fast till they go to pieces. As the water 
 evaporates fill the kettle with good broth until two quarts have 
 been used. Shred in a leaf of parsley, four stalks celery, two 
 leeks and one onion, four ounces salt pork. Cover and simmer till 
 all are soft enough to rub through a puree sieve. Return to the 
 stew-pan and add more broth if needed. Skim and finish with 
 three ounces butter, one ounce Hour, one teaspoon sugar. Serve 
 with slices of lemon in the tureen, and small squares of brown 
 bread fried in butter, served separately on a plate. 
 
 Bisque of Crabs No. 2. 
 
 Wash and boil four large crabs. Open them and take out all 
 the meat. Cut fine and then pound in a mortar. To three 
 pints of white stock highly seasoned, put a teacup of washed 
 rice and the crab, and uoil for half an hour. Rub through a 
 sieve, boil up once- add a cup of cream, and serve with very 
 small croutons. 
 
 Fish Chowder. 
 
 For this, cod, bass, or haddock may be used, but the fish must 
 always be a firm, thick one, with few bones, and these carefully 
 removed, as well as the skin. Take four pounds of fish, seven 
 good-sized potatoes, quarter of a pound of salt pork, two 
 onions, one tablespoon of salt, half a teaspoon of white pep- 
 per, one tablespoon of butter, one quart milk, eight butter 
 crackers. Cut the fish in two-inch pieces and set aside, put- 
 ting over the bones and head to boil in a pint of cold water. 
 Fare and slice the potatoes about an eighth of an inch thick 
 and parboil them for ten minutes; pour off all the water. 
 Cut the pork in dice and fry in an omelet pan; then mince the 
 unions and fry in the fat. As soon as a light brown, put all in 
 a kettle, lay in the potatoes, strain on the water in which the 
 bones have boiled with the seasoning, and when all boils, add 
 the fish, and simmer for fifteen minutes. Then add butter and 
 the hot milk, boil up once more; split the crackers, put them in 
 the tureen and pour the hot chowder over them. 
 
 A cup of line cracker crumbs may be added, if a thicker 
 broth is desired, or two eggs may be beaten light and mixed 
 with the hot milk before it is added to the chowder. 
 
 A teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce is liked by many. 
 
 Puree of Lima Beans. 
 
 One pint of Lima beans; if dry, soak over night in cold 
 water; boil in water or stock, or a mixture of water and stock, 
 or the thin part of a can of tomatoes (using the thick part 
 for escalloped tomatoes), until they are soft. If the water re- 
 duces very much, add a little milk, or more stock or water. 
 Sift very closely and add salt, pepper and cayenne to taste; if 
 you like, add a little onion juice, mace or any other seasoning. 
 To keep the thick part from separating, add one scant table- 
 spoon of Hour cooked in one tablespoon of butter. Let the 
 butter stand in a warm place until it is melted, then rub 
 the butter and (lour together until it is perfectly smooth, pour 
 in one cup of boiling soup and stir hard; then stir into the re- 
 mainder of the soup. Slice three small tomatoes very thin, put 
 them into the soup, and it will be ready to serve as soon as it 
 boils. Use just enough water when first boiling the beans to 
 keep them from sticking to the bottom of the kettle. 
 
 \ 
 
 A Swedish Fish Soup. 
 
 Take one dozen small pan fish, skin and bone them. ' Boil the 
 
 heads and bones in two quarts of water with a tables] nful 
 
 lit and a handful of dried mushrooms. Egg and crumb 
 the pieces of Qsh, and fry in boiling lard, letting them drain on 
 brown paper, Pare, and chop line a red beet, two onious and 
 half a dozen leeks, and a parsley root. Cut line, also I, 
 small white cabbage. Cook these separately in salted water 
 for half an hour. Strain the fish broth upon then, put the 
 tried lish in the tureen and pour broth and vegetables upon 
 them. Small dumplings are often added, and sometimes part 
 of the lish is minced line and mixed with them. 
 
 Farina Soup. 
 
 One pint boiling water, four tablespoons farina wet with 
 cold water, one-half teaspoon salt. Stir the farina into the 
 bmling water gradually, cover it and let it boil gently thirty 
 minutes, adding milk to thin it until one pint has been used. 
 Beat the yolk of three eggs with three tablespoons cream and 
 add at the last moment with more salt if needed. This sonp 
 should be of a creamy smoothness. 
 
 Soup Pastes. 
 
 A great variety of pastes cut in ornamental forms are used 
 in consomme and other soups by the French cook. These pastes 
 serve as a garnish and are often very delicious. They add a 
 finishing touch to the plate of clear golden consomme or to a 
 rich puree, which is the triumph of the master-cook. 
 
 The foundation of most soup pastes and the forcemeats used 
 in soups is egg. In the case of the "royal" paste, used by all 
 chefs from time immemorial, a simple mixture of eggs and 
 milk or cream is used. For this paste, break into a bowl four 
 egg yolks and one white; add a scant half saltspoon of cay- 
 enne, a scant half teaspoon of salt and a little, nutmeg. 
 Beat the egg and seasoning well together; add a gill of cream 
 or the same quantity of milk, and strain the whole through a 
 fine gravy strainer into little buttered timbal moulds, tiny tin 
 cups, that cost about ten cents. These moulds should be set in 
 a saucepan with boiling water reaching to half their height, 
 and then put in the oven, still in the saucepan, till the paste is 
 firm in the centre. As soon as the royal paste is cool enough, 
 cut it in slices or in ornamental shapes with a tin star or any 
 other fancy cutter and add it to a quart of clear consomme. 
 
 For another paste, beat the yolks of three eggs together and 
 add to them three tablespoons of white broth through which 
 a chestnut, boiled soft and pounded to a paste, has been mixed. 
 Use the large French chestnuts which are sold at large fruit 
 stores for culinary purposes, not the small American nuts. Mix 
 the eggs and chestnut puree together, season the mixture w r ith 
 salt and a little pepper, and cook it like royal paste in moulds. 
 
 An excellent paste is made like royal, with consomme substi- 
 tuted for cream; and still another by adding a half teaspoon 
 of onion juice to the royal paste before it is cooked. 
 
 Noodles are comparatively unknown in American kitchens, 
 though all good German housewives make noodle soup, and 
 the French use noodles, or nouilles, extensively in soup and 
 served as a vegetable, like macaroni, and in deserts. Noodles 
 are simply made, but require care. Take half a pound of Hour 
 and sift it on a board. Stir into it three beaten eggs, two table- 
 spoons of lukewarm water and an even teaspoon of but 
 ter; mix these ingredients together for several minutes and 
 gradually add the Hour. Knead the paste for at least ten min- 
 utes, folding it over and over like bread dough, and set it away 
 for about quarter of an hour Then roll it out— to the thick- 
 ness of a "lity-cent piece," says a famous French chef— and cut 
 it into strips two inches wide, shredding each one of these 
 strips into narrow match-like pieces. Let the noodles lie on 
 the board for thirty minutes to drv. and thev are ready for use. 
 This is the French method of cutting noodles. The German 
 housewife rolls out the noodle paste to the same thinness and 
 then forms it into rolls which she slices off at the end in quar- 
 ter-inch pieces. These little whorls of paste are dried about 
 half an hour longer than are French noodles, and when dropped 
 into the soup or boiling water or stock unroll in ribbons of 
 paste. Add a cup of French noodles to a quart of clear 
 boiling consomme and cook the noodles rapidly for ten min- 
 utes; or parboil the noodles for five minutes in plenty of boil- 
 ing water and add them drained to the boiling consomme and 
 cook five minutes longer. This last method insures a clearer 
 consomme. 
 
 Noodles should be stirred with a fork once or twice while 
 cooking, to prevent their boiling together, as they sometimes 
 do, especially if there is not abundance of liquid around the? . 
 
10 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 Served as a vegetable, French noodles are boiled ten minutes, 
 and German twenty, in a large kettle of stock or in water. 
 The stock is by no means injured by cooking the noodles, and 
 gives them a richer flavor than water. When drained, each 
 piece of paste should be distinct. Put them on a vegetable 
 platter, and fry in butter half a cup of coarse bread crumbs till 
 ve>y brown and crisp. Mix the fried crumbs with the noodles, 
 saving part to sprinkle over the top. This is an excellent dish 
 to serve with fried chicken, or wherever macaroni is served. 
 Noodles are also often dressed like macaroni, with Parmesan 
 cheese or with tomato sauce. 
 
 Boiled paste or pate-a-choux, used in making cream cakes, 
 eclairs and other dishes, is often formed in little balls the size 
 of peas, which are fried and all added to the tureen at the time 
 the soup is served. Or they are served separately to each indi- 
 vidual dish. A simple rule for this paste is a scanthalf cup of 
 butter, a cup of warm water, a liberal cup of flour, a teaspoon 
 of sugar and four eggs. Put the butter and water to boil 
 over the fire, and as soon as it boils, stir in the flour and sugar 
 and set the paste aside for a few moments, then stir in the 
 eggs one by one. Let the paste rest for half an hour. For 
 soup balls roll out a cupful of the dough in bits the size of 
 peas and fry them in hot lard. 
 
 "Spun eggs'' are simply beaten eggs seasoned and passed 
 through a colander into clear boiling consomme, where they 
 form vermicelli-like pieces. Square croutons for soup should 
 be cut in pieces about half an inch square, dried thoroughly 
 and fried in butter a golden brown, not in lard. American 
 housewives frequently add dumplings or little biscuits to their 
 boiling soups, with the inevitable result of heavy leaden little 
 pieces of dough. This is a certain result if the dumplings are 
 dropped into the liquid, which must permeate them before they 
 have time to rise. If the bits of dough are laid on a buttered 
 steamer, covered and cooked in the steam over the soup for ten 
 minutes, they will be ready to serve, light and delicious, but 
 must be served as soon as ready. 
 
 Marrow Balls. 
 
 One tablespoon finely cut marrow, three tablespoons fine stale 
 crumbs, one teaspoon chopped parsley, salt and pepper to taste. 
 
 Work to a smooth paste with the fingers, adding a little raw 
 egg if needed to make it smooth. Form in balls the size of a 
 filbert. Drop into the boiling soup and simmer about fifteen 
 minutes. 
 
 Spinach Balls. 
 
 Equal bidk of finely chopped spinach that has been well 
 seasoned, and very fine dry bread crumbs. Season highly with 
 pepper, salt and cayenne. Add enough white of egg to moisten 
 well, then stand aside to stiffen. Shape in balls size of a 
 hickory nut; poach in the hot soup for five minutes and serve 
 three or four to each plate of clear soup. They are especially 
 pretty in cream of Spinach Soup. 
 
 Sponge Balls. 
 
 Put the whites of two eggs in a teacup, fill the cup with 
 milk and pour the contents into a stewpan; add one teacupful 
 of flour and one ounce of butter (or size of an egg): stir well 
 over the fire until the batter is thick and smooth; set it to cool, 
 after which stir into it the two yolks, a few pinches of salt, a lit- 
 tle mace (if liked), and drop into the boiling hot soup, a teaspoon- 
 ful at a time. Cook from eight to ten minutes. — Mrs. Bayard 
 Taylor's Letters to Young Housekeepers. 
 
 Forcemeat Balls. 
 
 Scrape fine enough raw lean veal (or chicken) to make one- 
 half pound. Soak two ounces of bread (free of crust) in milk, 
 when soft pour it in a clean towel and squeeze dry; add two 
 onuces butter, the scraped meat, and the yolk of two eggs, 
 pound the whole smooth, and force through a rather coarse 
 sieve. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Form into 
 almond shaped balls between two teaspoons. Cook about ten 
 minutes in stock that must only simmer. 
 
 Hani Dumplings. 
 
 Proceed as above, using lean ham with parsley or a few drops 
 of onion juice; leaveout saltand nutmeg. Chop fine and pound 
 to a paste, but it need not be sifted. Shape in larger balls, about 
 the size of a pullefs egg, and cook in stock. They should be as 
 light as sponge and may be served in consomme. 
 
 HTHE: 
 
 Great • Scbtcbau • Engine, 
 
 The Wonder and Admiration 
 of American Machinists, 
 
 
 
 
 ■ •ele. 
 *~-e oil. 
 
 vv 
 
 RECENTLY ON EXHIBITION AT THE 
 
 WOOD'S FAIR, CHICAGO, 
 
 IS NOW IN OPERATION AT THE 
 
 Wast)buFi), CFosbjj Jo/s Flour Mills 
 
 MINNEAPOLIS, MINN. 
 
In the many standard books on cookery clear explanations 
 about the composition and value of flesh foods are to be found, 
 with full instruction about marketing, the best cuts, etc. The 
 reader is referred to these for a careful study of the subject. 
 
 In a book of recipes there is room fur only general principles, 
 but the following table compiled from the "Diaetetisches 
 Kochbuch" of Dr. Wiel furnishes material for profitable study 
 and frequent reference. 
 
 Water. Albuminoids. Fats. Mineral Matter. 
 
 Lean beef 76.5 21.0 1.5 1.0 
 
 Medium fat beef. . . 72.5 21.0 5.5 1.0 
 
 Very fat beef 55.5 17.0 26.5 1.0 
 
 Medium fat mutton 76.0 17.0 6.0 1.0 
 
 Fat mutton 48.0 15.0 36.0 1.0 
 
 Lean pork 72.0 20.0 7.0 1.0 
 
 Tat pork 47.0 14.5 37.5 1.0 
 
 The excessive amount of water found in underfed meat is 
 largely lost in cooking, and being so much waste shows clearly 
 the great economy in buying only well fattened meats. 
 
 There are a few simple principles to be considered in cooking 
 meats and one of the most important points is that much of 
 its value depends upon the albumen and fibrine contained in 
 it; since both of these become hard and indigestible when 
 exposed to a high temperature, it follows that while we expose 
 the surface of meat to a fierce heat, until the outside is seared 
 sufficiently to keep in the juices, the bulk of the meat should 
 be cooked at a temperature much below boiling point, from 
 160° to 200° allowing sufficient time to thoroughly soften the 
 connective tissues. 
 
 Roasting. 
 
 All meats should be raised at least an inch from the bottom 
 of the baking-pan, using a trivet or rack made for the purpose. 
 Hub the joint well with salt and pepper and dredge with as 
 little flour as will insure a dry surface. Very lean meat is 
 improved by having thin slices of fat meat, either bacon, pork 
 or its own fat laid over the surface at first until there is 
 sufficient dripping to baste with. 
 
 Do not add water to the pan until within an hour of taking 
 up; it is better not to use any, but after the meat has been 
 lifted to the platter, drain off all the grease, add enough thin 
 broth to dissolve the glaze left in the pan, and use this for 
 gravy, either "an jus" or thickened slightly with brown roux. 
 
 Braising. 
 
 Braising is particularly adapted for meats that are lacking 
 in flavor or are tough. A deep pan with a close fitting cover 
 is necessary; granite ware is the most satisfactory for small 
 ones, while larger ones should be made of Russia iron with 
 folded seams, as both pan and cover must be without solder. 
 
 A true braising kettle should have an iron lid with a 
 depression for holding hot coals and ashes — but satisfactory 
 results can be obtained from an ordinary pan with tightly 
 fitting cover. 
 
 The covered pans sold as "roasters" are really braising pans 
 and owe their excellence to the fact that the two parts fit 
 together so tightly as to confine the steam, thus this meat is 
 cooked in its own vapor. The most stubborn pieces will yield 
 to the persuasion of a braising pan and become tender, 
 especially if a few drops of lemon juice or other acid be added 
 to the gravy in the pan. This affords an opportunity to render 
 coarse pieces savory by laying them upon a bed of vegetables 
 or sweet herbs; while dry meats can be enriched by the 
 process known as daubing. (See page 12). 
 
 Broiling. 
 
 The fire for broiling must be clear, and for meats it should 
 be hotter and brighter than for fish. Coals from hard wood or 
 charcoal are best, but in all large towns and cities hard coa! is 
 nearly always used, except in hotels and restaurants, where 
 there is usually a special place for broiling with charcoal. The 
 double broiler is the very best thing in the market for broiling 
 meats and fish. When the meat is placed in it, and the slide is 
 slipped over the handles, all there is to do is to hold the broiler 
 over the fire, or, if you have an open range, before the fire. A 
 fork or knife need not go near the meat until it is on the dish. 
 A great amount of the juice is saved. If the old fashioned 
 broiler is used, let the meat be turned with two long handled 
 forks having blunted points that will not make holes for the 
 juice to run. Meats broiled over a fire should be turned as 
 often as every fifteen seconds, but when under a gas flame, it 
 need be turned only once to secure a good brown on both sides. 
 
 Pan-broiling. 
 
 Heat a cast-iron or steel frying-pan to a blue heat. Rub it 
 with a bit of the fat meat till well oiled, but do not leave any fai 
 in the pan. Season the meat and lay in the pan just long enough 
 to sear thoroughly, then turn and sear the other side and 
 continue turning often enough to keep the juice from escaping. 
 Cook about four minutes for a slice one inch thick. Ifthepanis 
 hot enough and the fat drained away as fast as it cooks out, this 
 is not frying but broiling on a hot surface instead of over coals. 
 
 Frying. 
 
 To fry is to cook in deep hot fat; the fat must be deep enough 
 to float whatever is placed in it, or toentirely cover such articles 
 as do not float, and while its temperature is far below the 
 boiling point of fat (565° to 600°) it should be much hotter than 
 the boiling point of water. About 400° is best for most kinds 
 of meat or fish, while preparations of flour and egg will cook at 
 a much lower degree, 360° being hot enough for any batter or 
 dough. If one has no thermometer, test the fat with a small 
 bit of the dough, and for croquettes draw a match over the 
 surface; it should light at once. 
 
 An equally important condition is that the article should 
 either contain albumen, or be coated with beaten egg to insure 
 a fat-proof crust. Mixtures containing egg will generallv form 
 such a crust at once, but meat, fish, etc , should be wiped as 
 dry as possible, and then rolled in fine bread-crumbs to dry 
 them thoroughly, coated with beaten egg and rolled in bread- 
 crumbs again. The safest way is to put in all articles a few at 
 a time, adding fresh pieces as fast as the fat re-heats. 
 
 A Scotch bowl is the best utensil for frying; a woven wire 
 egg-beater is needed to move and lift the food, and a broad, flat 
 wire basket for draining when first lifted from the fat, laying it 
 afterwards on soft paper. The best fat for frying is undoubtedly 
 olive oil, but it is too expensive for general use in this countrv, 
 the next best thing yet invented is the cottolene put up by 
 N. K. Fairbank. There is no longer any excuse for using the 
 penetrating grease known as drippings, or almost equally 
 objectionable lard. Have ready slices of raw potato to put 
 into the fat the instant the last piece of food is removed, as it 
 loses its heat so slowly that it will go on browning even if 
 removed from the fire. If cooled quickly and carefully 
 strained each time the same fat can be used repeatedly. 
 
 Boiling. 
 
 In boiling as in roasting the general principle is to subject 
 the meat to a high degree of heat at first and until a layer of 
 albumen hardens over the entire surface. The temperature 
 should then be dropped much below boiling point, some 
 authorities say as low as 160°, and kept there until the gelatine 
 
12 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 and connective tissues are softened to almost the point of 
 dissolving. Let the meat partly cool in the liquor, and if the 
 slices are served on very hot plates, they will be juicy, tender 
 and well-flavored, an titter contrast to the tasteless, stringy 
 abomination usually offered under the name of boiled meat. 
 
 The same treatment applies to all kinds of stews. 
 
 Those who like to kill two birds with one stone may take a 
 lesson from the French fashion of serving bouillon. It may be 
 varied to advantage as follows: When ordering the standard 
 amount of meat for soup, six pounds, ask for two more 
 and see that there is one solid piece of three pounds or 
 more, neck or low down on the round will do, trim 
 this to shape, brown well on every side over coals and 
 tie compactly with eight or ten turns of cord. Cut the 
 rest of the meat fine and crack bones as usual, add the cold 
 water and four drops of muriacic acid for each pound of meat, 
 that is, if eight pounds were ordered and four were reserved to 
 brown, there will be left four in the kettle for soup and these 
 will take sixteen drops of acid, stir well and set in a cool place 
 for two hours. During this time the juice of the meat will have 
 been extracted thoroughly and will require less cooking than 
 usual. Heat gradually and when it really boils put in the 
 browned meat. Cook gently until the meat is tender, adding 
 such vegetables as you wish in time to have them done 
 together, they should be parboiled first for five minutes and, if 
 they are wanted to serve with the meat for the day's dinner, 
 should not be cut up as usual for soup. If boiled meat is not 
 liked for dinner it maybe kept for lunch or breakfast; it is 
 good sliced cold or it can be used in a hash, a stew or cro- 
 quettes. 
 
 Daubing. 
 
 Cut pieces of fat salt pork about one-third inch square and 
 as long as the meat is thick. Cut a slit through the meat with 
 a narrow boning-knife, force the strips of pork quite through 
 till they show on the opposite side; this takes much less time 
 than to lard and answers very well except when the appearance 
 of the finished dish is to be considered. 
 
 Larding. 
 
 Is usually applied to the tenderloin of beef when roasted 
 whole, to the thick part of the leg of veal, the breast of turkey 
 or grouse and to liver; it is also nice for a large fish. 
 
 Select a piece of clear, fat salt pork, having fine, close grain 
 and pinkish color, shave off the rind as closely as possible, cut 
 the meat in slices parallel with it, from one-eighth to one-fourth 
 of an inch thick, cut these again into strips of the same width 
 and lay on ice till used. With a larding-needle draw these 
 strips into the meat in hand, taking pains to have the stitches 
 evenly distributed (they are usually set in alternate rows) until 
 the whole upper surface is covered. 
 
 A short, deep stitch will make the ends of the lardon stand 
 up, and is more ornamental than a shallow one. Directions for 
 boning will be given in full with the recipe for boned turkey. 
 
 Roast Beef. 
 
 One of the best pieces for roasting is the tip of the sirloin. 
 Have the backbone trimmed very close, cut the ribs close to the 
 solid part of the meat and remove them from the flank part. 
 Roll the flank end toward the backbone and with a large needle 
 and twine secure it by two or three stitches through the tough 
 skin. Do not wash, but sponge with a wet cloth, rub lightly 
 with pepper and salt and dredge on flour enough to dry 
 the surface. Put plenty of flour in the bottom of the pan 
 if a thickened brown gravy is wished. Lay on the rack 
 with the serving-side down at first. If the oven is hot 
 enough it will need to be turned in about an hour. 
 Watch carefully, basting every fifteen minutes, and as soon 
 as well browned on all sides pour in enough water to cover 
 the bottom of the pan. Let the water cook away toward the 
 last, so that the fat can be poured away. After the meat is done 
 set it into a hot closet, but do not cover while making gravy. 
 Add one pint hot water to the sediment left in pan after the 
 fat has been poured off. Place on the stove and scrape all the 
 glaze from bottom and side of the pan. When it boils add a 
 thickening made of two teaspoons of flour, rubbed smooth 
 with four tablespoons of cold water, pouring it in slowly, as 
 it is not possible to know just how much the browned flour 
 already in the pan will help to thicken it. Boil well, add salt 
 and pepper to taste and strain into a hot sauce-bowl. 
 
 Yorkshire Pudding. 
 
 Beat two eggs very light, add one scant teaspoon of salt and 
 two-thirds pint of milk, pour half a cup of this mixture on 
 one-half cup of flour, and stir to a smooth paste, add the 
 
 remainder of the mixture and beat well. Bake in hot gem- 
 pans forty-five minutes. Baste with the drippings from the 
 beef. This is a more convenient way than to bake in the pan 
 under the beef, and gives more crust. Serve as a garnish for 
 roast beef. 
 
 French Roast. 
 
 If the piece of meat be lean or of second quality it will be 
 improved by rubbing it well with a preparation of four table- 
 spoons salad oil, two tablespoons chopped parsley, one sliced 
 onion, two bay-leaves, juice of one-half lemon. Rub meat 
 well all over and let it lie from eighteen hours to two days, 
 turning in the dressing once or twice. Baste the meat with the 
 same dressing, adding salt and pepper to taste. Serve "au jus"' 
 as in plain roast. 
 
 Fillet of Beef, Larded. 
 
 The true fillet is the tenderloin, although sometimes one will 
 see a rib roast, boned and rolled, called a fillet. A short fillet, 
 weighing from two and a half to three pounds (the average 
 weight from a very large rump), will suffice for ten persons at 
 a dinner where this is served as one course, and if a larger 
 quantity is wanted a great saving will still be made if two 
 short fillets are used. They cost about two dollars, while a large 
 one, weighing the same amount, will cost five dollars. First, 
 remove from the fillet with a sharp knife every shred of muscle, 
 ligament and thin, tough skin. If it is not then of a good 
 round shape, skewer it into shape. Draw a line through the 
 centre and lard with two rows of pork, having them meet at 
 this line. Dredge well with salt, pepper and flour, and put, 
 without water, in a very small pan. Place in a hot oven for 
 thirty minutes. Let it be in the lower part of the oven the 
 first ten minutes, then place on the upper grate. Serve with 
 mushroom or tomato sauce, or with potato balls. If with 
 sauce, this should be poured around the fillet. The time given 
 cooks a fillet of any size, the shape being such that it will take 
 half an hour for either two or six pounds. Save the fat 
 trimmed from the fillet for frying, and the lean part for soup 
 stock. — Miss Parloa. 
 
 Rolled Rib Roast. 
 
 Either have the butcher remove the bones or do it yourself 
 by slipping a sharp knife between the flesh and bones— a 
 simple matter with almost any kind of meat. Roll up the 
 piece and tie with strong twine. Treat the same as plain roast 
 beef, giving the same time as if it were a piece of rump (one 
 hour and a half for eight pounds), as the form it is now in 
 does not readily admit the heat to all parts. This piece of beef 
 can be larded before roasting or it can be larded and braised. 
 Serve with tomato or horseradish sauce. 
 
 Pot Roast. 
 
 Four to six pounds from the middle or face of the rump, the 
 vein or the round. Wipe with a clean wet cloth. Sear all over 
 by placing in a hot frying-pan and turning till all the surface 
 is browned. Put in a kettle with one cup of water and place 
 it where it will keep just below the boiling point. Do not let 
 the water boil entirely away, but add only enough to keep the 
 meat from burning. Have the cover fitting closely to keep in 
 the steam. Cook until very tender, but do not let it break. 
 Serve hot or cold. The meat when cold is delicious, cut in 
 quarter-inch slices and sautud in hot butter. 
 
 Braised Beef. 
 
 Trim a piece weighing about four pounds into a smooth 
 shape, lard it on each side with three or four pieces of salt 
 pork, let it marinate for twelve hours in the juice of one lemon, 
 one tablespoon salad oil, one tablespoon salt, one table- 
 spoon peppercorns, a sprig each of thyme and parsley. 
 Brown the meat well on all sides in a frying-pan, then lay it in 
 the braising-pan on a bed of chopped onion, carrot and parsley, 
 pour in boiling water to half cover and cook in a moderate 
 oven two hours or more until very tender, turn once in the 
 time, lift the meat onto a hot platter, skim the fat from the 
 gravy and skim out the vegetables to serve with the meat if 
 liked. Thicken the gravy with one heaping tablespoon of 
 flour and strain it over the meat. This dish is often served with 
 a garnishing of several different kinds of vegetables cooked 
 separately in clear water and arranged around it. It is then 
 called & la jardiniere. 
 
 Beef Steak. 
 
 Have it cut thick. It will never be good, rich, and juicy if 
 only from one fourth to one half an inch thick. It ought 
 
WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 13 
 
 to be at least three-quarters of an inch thick. Trim off any 
 suet that may be left on it, and dredge with salt, pepper, and 
 Hour. Cook in the double broiler, over or before clear coals, lor 
 ten minutes, if it be rare; twelve, if to be rather well done. 
 'ruin the meat constantly. Serve on a hot dish with butter and 
 salt, or with mushroom sauce, maitre d'Hotel butter, or 
 tomato sauce. Do not stick a knife or fork into the meat to 
 try it. This is the way many people spoil it. Pounding is 
 another bad habit; much of the juice of the meat is lost,— Miss '• 
 Paiioa. 
 
 Pan Broiled Steak. 
 
 Wipe and trim as above. Heat an iron frying pan smoking 
 hot Sprinkle salt and pepper on the steak and lay in the pan. 
 sear each side quickly, then draw back to cook more slowly 
 about four minutes, turning often. When done lift to a hot 
 1 .latter, and spread with soft butter, or better dissolve glaze in 
 frying pan in two or three tablespoons hot water and pour 
 over the steak. 
 
 Broiled Meat Cakes or Hamburg Steak. 
 
 Chop raw lean beef quite fine, season with salt, pepper and a 
 little chopped onion or onion juice. Make it into small flat 
 cakes and broil on a well greased gridiron, or in a hot frying 
 pan. Serve very hot with butter or Maitre d'Hotel sauce. 
 The flank end of the sirloin is better when cooked in this man- 
 ner than when broiled with the other part of the steak. 
 Make the proportion about one-fourth fat to about three-fourths 
 lean meat. The seasoning for this is in the proportion of one 
 teaspoon of salt, one saltspoon pepper and a few drops of 
 onion juice for one pint of meat after it is chopped. 
 
 Mark Twain's Beef Steak. 
 
 "They have the beefsteak in Europe, but they don't know 
 how to cook it. Neither will they cut it right. It comes on the 
 table in a small, round pewter platter; it is the size, shape, and 
 thickness of a man's hand with the thumb and Angers cut off. 
 It is a little overdone, it is rather dry, it tastes perfectly insip- 
 idly, it rouses no enthusiasm." This is painfully true if one 
 has in mind such a porterhouse steak as may be found on many 
 American tables: "a mighty one an inch and a half thick, hot 
 and spluttering from the gridiron; dusted with fragrant pepper, 
 enriched with little melting bits of butter of the most unim- 
 peachable freshness and genuineness; the precious juices of the 
 meat trickling out and joining the gravy; archipelagoed with 
 mushrooms; a township or two of tender yellow fat gracing an 
 outlying district of this ample county of beefsteak, the long 
 white bone which divides the sirloin from the tenderloin still 
 in its place." 
 
 What to do with Cold Beefsteak. 
 
 Chop the best and most tender portions, add hot water 
 enough to moisten slightly, heat quickly, and serve as soon as 
 hot. Add butter, salt and pepper. The tough parts of steak or 
 of roast-beef are much more palatable if boiled first in water to 
 cover until tender. Then use them in any of the ways given 
 for cold meat, as croquettes, hash, mince on toast, stew, ragout, 
 meat and potato pie, braised meat, etc. 
 
 Beefsteak Pate, 
 
 Chop one pound of best round steak till it is a soft pulp. 
 Season highly with salt and pepper. Add a little of the tender 
 fat also chopped fine. Mix two beaten eggs with one pint of 
 milk. Pour this slowly into one cup of flour mixed with one 
 teaspoon of baking-powder. When well mixed, stir it thor- 
 oughly into the meat. Bake in a moderate oven about an 
 hour. 
 
 Stewed Steak. 
 
 For this, a cut from the round is good enough. First pan 
 broil till well browned, add water to nearly cover. Cover 
 closely and simmer till very tender. Lift the meat to a deep 
 platter, skim the gravy if it shows much fat, add to it one table- 
 spoon flour wet in cold water, more salt and pepper if needed, 
 and a few drops of catsup or horse radish. 
 
 Corned Beef. 
 
 Select a piece of lean beef well streaked with fat that has 
 been corned only three clays. When it is possible, choose the 
 meat before corning, and request the marketman to send it in 
 three days. Wash it carefully and put it into boiling water. 
 Simmer (not boil) until very tender. Cool in the stock. Then 
 press between two plates and serve in thin slices. 
 
 Scotch Roll. 
 
 uove the tough skin from about live pounds of the flank 
 of beef, A portion of the meat will be found thicker than the 
 list. With a sharp knife, cut a thin layer from the thick part, 
 and lay it upon the thin. Mix together three tablespoons 
 of salt," one of sugar, half a teaspoon of pepper, one eighth 
 of a teaspoon of clove, and one teaspoon of summer 
 savory. Sprinkle this over the meat, and then sprinkle with 
 three tablespoons of vineger. Roll up, and tie with twine. 
 Put away in. a cold place for twelve hours. Whenit lias stood 
 this time, place in a stewpan, with boiling water to (-over, ami 
 simmer gently for three hours and a halt. Mix four heaping 
 tablespoons of Hour with half a cupful of cold water and 
 stir into the gravy. Season to taste with salt and pepper. 
 Simmer half an hour longer. The dish is good hot or cold. 
 
 Beef a la Mode. 
 
 Four to six pounds of beef from the underside of the round, 
 cut thick. Wipe and trim off the rough edges. Put in a deep 
 dish and pour over it spiced vinegar made by boiling live 
 minutes one cup vinegar, one onion chopped fine, three tea- 
 spoons salt and one-half teaspoon each whole mustard, pepper, 
 clove and allspice. Let the meat stand several hours, turning it 
 often. Then daub it with several strips of salt pork one-third 
 of an inch wide and as long as the meat is thick. Tie it into 
 good shape with a narrow strip of cotton. Dredge it with flour 
 and brown all over in hot drippings. Cut two onions, one-half 
 a carrot and one-half a turnip fine and fry them in the same 
 fat. Lay the vegetables in a deep braising-pan (of granite 
 ware if possible), the meat on top, with some bits of parsley 
 and thyme, pour over the spiced vinegar, adding enough beef 
 broth or water to half cover. Cover closely and simmer four 
 hours, turning once meantime. Take up carefully, remove the 
 strings and lay on a large platter. Remove fat from the gravy, 
 add more seasoning if needed, thicken with brown roux and 
 strain it over the meat. — Adapted from "Boston Cook Book." 
 
 Beef Stew. 
 
 Two pounds of beef, the round, flank or any cheap part, (if 
 there is bone in it, two and a half pounds will be required), one 
 onion, two slices of carrot, two of turnip, two potatoes, three 
 tablespoons of flour, salt and pepper to taste and a generous quart 
 of water. Cut all the fat from the meat and put it in a stewpan, 
 fry gently for ten or fifteen minutes. In the meantime cut the 
 meat in small pieces and season well with salt and pepper, and 
 then sprinkle over it two tablespoons of flour. Cut the 
 vegetables in very small pieces and put in the pot with the fat. 
 Fry them five minutes, stirring well to prevent burning. Now 
 put in the meat and move it about in the pot until it begins to 
 brown, then add the quart of boiling water. Cover, let it boil 
 up once, skim, and set back where it will just bubble for two 
 and a half hours. Add the potatoes, cut in thin slices, and one 
 tablespoon of flour, mixed smooth with half a cupful of 
 cold water, pouring about one-third of the water on the flour 
 at first and adding the rest when perfectly smooth. Taste to 
 see if the stew is seasoned enough, and if it is not, add more 
 salt and pepper. Let the stew come to a boil again and cook 
 ten minutes, then add dumplings. (See page 5<»). Cover 
 tightly and boil rapidly ten minutes longer. 
 
 Mutton, lamb or veal can be cooked in this manner. When 
 veal is used, fry out two slices of pork, as there will not be 
 much fat on the meat. Lamb and mutton should have some of 
 the fat put aside, as there is so much on these meats that it 
 makes them too rich. 
 
 Beef Stew with Peas. 
 
 3 pounds soup meat. 1 slice carrot. 
 
 3 quarts cold water. % slice turnip. 
 
 1 large onion. 2 potatoes. 
 
 1 tablespoon salt. 1 pint split peas. 
 1 saltspoon pepper. 
 
 Choose the meat from the under part of the round, face of 
 the rump, aitch-bone or the remainder of roast beef. Remove 
 all the slivers of bone. Cook it four hours. When it begins to 
 boil, remove the scum and fat. Cook the peas in another 
 kettle in water to cover, and as the water boils away replenish 
 with water from the meat. Keep the meat covered with water 
 and when half done add the vegetables, all cut fine, and the 
 seasoning. When ready, serve the meat by itself. Rub the 
 peas through a puree-strainer, and, after removing the fat, add 
 the peas to the meat-liquor. Season to taste and serve very 
 hot. Cut the meat in small pieces and serve it in the stew. — 
 Mrs. Lincoln. 
 
WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 Braised Tongue. 
 
 Wash a fresh beef tongue of three pounds and fasten the tip 
 to the roots with a stout string. Cover with boiling water and 
 cook gently two hours. Peel, trim, and cool slightly; rub with 
 Hour and brown all over in a deep pan or kettle. There should 
 be six ounces of fat, half butter and half dripping, in which 
 have been cooked for five minutes one tablespoon each, carrot, 
 turnip and onion. Cover the tongue half way with the stock in 
 which it was boiled; a bit of cinnamon, a clove, a bouquet of 
 sweet herbs may be added to the necessary salt and pepper 
 Cook slowly two hours. At the last half hour the juice of half 
 a lemon is put in. When perfectly tender take up, melt two 
 tablespoons of glaze and pour over it, set in a warm place while 
 the gravy is made. Add one tablespoon corn starch dissolved in 
 water and stir into the gravy, which should be reduced to a pint. 
 Boil five minutes and pour around the tongue on a hot platter. 
 
 Baked Tongue. 
 
 Wash a fresh ox tongue, put it in a saucepan with some car- 
 rots, turnips, a celery root, pepper, salt, and plenty of water; 
 boil it, removing the scum as it rises. When soft, take it out of 
 the pan and skin it, cut up an onion and a little lemon-peel 
 very finely; brown them in bacon fat, make holes in the tongue, 
 and fill them with the mixture, return it to the saucepan with 
 part of the liquor in which it was boiled, and steam it for a 
 few minutes, then place it in a baking-dish, mix half a pint of 
 cream with some of the liquor, baste the tongue with it and 
 bake it a nice brown. Cut it in slices, lay them in the centre 
 of a dish, pour the sauce over and serve with baked potatoes 
 round them. 
 
 Escaloped Tongue. 
 
 Chop some cold tongue, not too fine, and have for each pint 
 one tablespoon of onion juice, one teaspoon of chopped 
 parsley, one heaping teaspoon of salt, one teaspoon of capers, 
 one cup of bread crumbs, half a cup of stock and three table- 
 spoons of butter. Butter the escalop dish, and cover the 
 bottom with bread crumbs. Put in the tongue, which has 
 been mixed with the parsley, salt, pepper and capers, and add the 
 stock, in which has been mixed the onion juice. Put part of 
 the butter on the dish with the remainder of the bread crumbs, 
 and then bits of butter here and there. Bake twenty minutes 
 and serve hot. 
 
 Tongue in Jelly. 
 
 Boil and skin either a fresh or salt tongue. When cold, trim 
 off the roots. Have one and a fourth quarts of aspic jelly in 
 the liquid state. Cover the bottom of a two quart mould about 
 an inch deep with it and let it harden. With a fancy vegetable 
 cutter, cut out leaves from cooked beets and garnish the bottom 
 of the mould with them. Gently pour in three tablespoons of 
 jelly, to set the vegetables. When this is hard add jelly enough 
 to cover the vegetables, and let the whole get very hard. Then 
 put in the tongue, and about half a cup of jelly, which should 
 be allowed to harden, and so keep the meat in place when the 
 remainder is added. Pour in the remainder of the jelly and set 
 away to harden. To serve: Dip the mould for a few moments 
 in a pan of warm water and then gently turn on to a dish. 
 Garnish with pickles and parsley. Pickled beet is especially 
 nice. 
 
 Fillets of Tongue. 
 
 Cut cold boiled tongue in pieces about four inches long, two 
 wide, and half an inch thick. Dip in melted butter and in 
 flour. For eight fillets put two tablespoons of butter in the 
 frying-pan, and when hot put in the tongue. Brown on both 
 sides, being careful not to burn. Take up, and put one more 
 spoon of butter in the pan, and then one heaping teaspoon of 
 flour. Stir until dark brown, then add one cup of stock, half a 
 teaspoon of parsley and one tablespoon of lemon juice or one 
 teaspoon of vinegar. Let this boil up once and then pour it 
 around the tongue, which has been dished on thin strips of 
 toast. Garnish with parsley and serve. For a change, a table- 
 spoon of chopped pickles or of capers, can be stirred into the 
 sauce the last moment. — Miss Parloa. 
 
 Beef Olives. 
 
 One and one half pounds of beef, cut very thin. Trim off the 
 edges and fat; then cut in strips three inches wide and four 
 long; season well with salt and pepper. Chop fine the trim- 
 mings and the fat. Add three table-spoons of powdered cracker 
 one teaspoon of sage and savory mixed, one-fourth of a tea- 
 spoon of pepper, and two teaspoons of salt. Mix very 
 thoroughly and spread on the strips of beef. Boll them up and 
 tie with twine. When all are done, roll in flour. Fry brown a 
 
 quarter of a pound of pork. Take it out of the pan, and put 
 the olives in. Fry brown, and put in a small stewpan that can 
 be tightly covered. In the fat remaining in the pan put one 
 tablespoon of flour, and stir until perfectly smooth and brown; 
 then pour in, gradually, nearly a pint and a half of boiling 
 water. Stir for two or three minutes, season to taste with salt 
 and pepper, and pour over the olives. Cover the stewpan, and 
 let simmer two hours. Take up at the end of this time and cut 
 the strings with a sharp knife. Place the olives in a row on a 
 dish, and pour the gravy over them. 
 
 Sauteing. 
 
 What is often called frying, that is, cooking the article 
 in a shallow pan with a little fat, browning first one 
 side and then the other; is not really frying, and there is no 
 word in English for it. The French call it saute and it will 
 answer very well for omelets, pancakes and many other things 
 that are just browned in butter, but is only adapted for dishes 
 that are to be lightly cooked. 
 
 MUTTON AND LAMB. 
 
 Roast Lamb. 
 
 Choose a rather large shoulder, have it lifted from the ribs 
 and with a sharp knife remove the shoulder blade and bone of 
 the leg. Sponge carefully and rub inside and out with pepper, 
 salt and fine mint, rub soft butter on the outside and dust with 
 flour. Place in very hot oven for ten minutes or till flour is 
 brown, then reduce the heat and baste with dripping from the 
 pan or any sweet beef dripping. Turn at the end of forty-five 
 minutes and roast one and one-third hours for a six pound 
 shoulder. 
 
 Gravy. 
 
 Drain off fat from dripping-pan, dredge in two tablespoons 
 flour and brown well. Add one pint water in which the bones 
 have been boiled and rub smooth. Add more salt and pepper 
 if needed and one tablespoon lemon juice. Strain and send to 
 the table in a hot sauce bowl. 
 
 Spring Lamb, Mint Sauce. 
 
 Rub the saddle of lamb with salt and butter, and while 
 roasting baste frequently with the gravy and salted water. 
 Cook ten minutes to a pound. The sauce is made from young 
 leaves of mint chopped fine, adding two tablespoons of 
 powdered sugar to three tablespoons of mint; after mixing 
 add six tablespoons of white wine vinegar or cider, pouring 
 it slowly over the mint. In order to extract all the flavor of 
 the mint the sauce should be made in advance of dinner-time 
 
 Roast Mutton. 
 
 Roast mutton is cooked in the same way, but the piece 
 chosen is usually the leg or loin. The leg is greatly improved 
 by having the bone removed and filling its place with a stuffing 
 made of one coffee cup coarse cracker crumbs, one teaspoon 
 salt, one saltspoon pepper, one teaspoon mint, dried and 
 powdered, moisten with melted butter. 
 
 Roast Shoulder of Mutton. 
 
 Remove the bone and fill the space with a moist stuffing 
 made with grated stale bread crumbs, highly seasoned with 
 butter, salt, pepper and thyme. Add the yolk of one or two 
 eggs and enough warm water to soften the bread thoroughly. 
 Put the bones and scraps of meat in a kettle with barely water 
 enough to cover, lay the stuffed shoulder on them and let the 
 whole simmer gently for an hour or more to make it tender. 
 Lift onto the rack in a roasting-pan, dredge with salt, pepper 
 and flour and bake an hour or till tender. Use the water in 
 the kettle for basting and for gravy, with a little butter and 
 flour at the last to froth the surface. Garnish with forcemeat 
 balls made from its own trimmings. 
 
 Imitation Barbecue of Mutton. 
 
 Roast the mutton as usual, but about one hour before it is 
 ready to serve, prepare the following mixture: 
 
 One-third cup each of Worcestershire sauce, tomato catsup, 
 and vinegar, saltspoon pepper, one rounded teaspoon mustard. 
 Stick the meat all over with a sharp pointed knife, pulling the 
 gash open and filling with the mixture just prepared. If any 
 is left pour it over the roast when it comes to the table. This 
 is excellent. 
 
 Leg of Lamb a la Frangaise. 
 
 Put a leg of lamb, weighing about eight pounds, in as small 
 a kettle as will hold it. Put in a muslin bag one onion, one 
 small white turnip, a few green celery leaves, three sprigs each 
 
 two-, 
 one-ha. 
 
i. 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 15 
 
 of sweet marjoram and summer savory, four cloves and twelve 
 allspice. Tie the bag and place it in the kettle with the lamb, 
 then pour on two quarts of boiling water. Let this come to a 
 boil and then skim carefully. Now add four heaping table- 
 spoons of flour, which has been mixed with one cup of 
 cold water, two tablespoons of salt, and a speck of cayenne. 
 Cover tight and set back where it will just simmer for tour 
 hours. In the meantime make a pint and a half of veal or 
 mutton force-meat, shape into little balls and fry brown. 
 Boil six eggs hard. At the end of four hours take up the 
 lamb. Skim all the fat off the gravy, and take out the bag 
 of seasoning. Now put the kettle where the contents wiil 
 boil rapidly for ten minutes. Put three tablespoons of 
 butter in the frying-pan, and when hot stir in two of flour, 
 cook until a dark brown, but not burned, and stir into the 
 •navy. Taste to see if seasoned enough. Have the whites and 
 oiks of the hard boiled eggs chopped separately. Pour the 
 gravy over the lamb, then garnish with the chopped eggs, 
 making a hill of the whites, and capping it with part of the 
 yolks. Sprinkle the remainder of the yolks over the lamb. 
 I 'lace the meat balls in groups around the dish. Garnish with 
 parsley and serve. — Miss Parloa. 
 
 Braised Breast of Lamb. 
 
 With a sharp knife remove the bones from a breast of lamb, 
 then season it well with salt and pepper, roll up and tie 
 firmly with twine. Put two tablespoons of butter in the 
 liiaising-pan, and when melted add one onion, one slice of 
 carrot and one of turnip, all cut fine. Stir for five minutes 
 and then put in the lamb, with a thick dredging of Hour. 
 Cover, and set back where it will not cook rapidly, for half an 
 hour, then add one quart of stock or boiling water and place in 
 the oven, where it will cook slowly for an hour. Baste often. 
 Take up the meat, skim all the fat off the gravy and then 
 put it where it will boil rapidly for five minutes. Take the 
 string from the meat. Strain the gravy and pour over the dish. 
 Serve very hot, or serve with tomato or Bechamel sauce. The 
 bones should be put in the pan with the meat, to improve the 
 
 gravy< Broiled Mutton. 
 
 Select lean mutton from the leg or any other lean part. 
 Remove the fat and membranes. Put it on a board and chop 
 or pound with an iron meat-hammer until broken to a pulp. 
 Fold over and press into a mass half an inch thick, take it up 
 carefully and broil in a fine wire gridiron well greased. Turn 
 it often and cook it quite rare. Serve very hot with butter and 
 
 Ballotin of Lamb. 
 
 Bone a shoulder of lamb, leaving the end for a handle. Sew 
 it up with a needle, tie it firmly and boil for five minutes. 
 Take out and cool, then lard it as for a f ricaudeau. Put a slice 
 of bacon in a saucepan with one tablespoon minced onion and 
 one of carrot, brown the lamb with these for five minutes, 
 add a pint of white broth and cook for one hour. The sauce 
 should reduce one-half, thicken slightly, pour it over one pint 
 boiled green peas and lay the lamb upon them. 
 
 Haricot. 
 
 Fry an onion, then cut all the fat from eight mutton chops, 
 tlour them well and brown them with the onion. Cover with 
 water and stew slowly two hours. Then add tomato or any 
 other vegetable. Or cover at first with a quart of sliced tomato 
 instead of water. Pepper and salt. 
 
 Sanders. 
 
 Mince cold mutton with seasoning and enough gravy to 
 moisten. Put into patty-pans, cover with mashed potatoes and 
 brown. Boiled Leg of Mutton. 
 
 Leg of mutton when boiled to a turn is a very acceptable 
 joint and also a very profitable one for small families, as many 
 excellent dishes may be prepared from that not used at the 
 first meal. Many suppose that mutton should be well done, 
 but this is an error. It should be cooked about the same as 
 "medium" roast beef, and red juice should follow the knife 
 when carving. Rare mutton is indigestible. Put the leg in an 
 oval boiler, cover it with plenty of fast boiling water, slightly 
 salted, skim off the rising scum, as it will discolor the joint if 
 it comes in contact with it. A medium sized leg of mutton 
 requires only two hours and a half to boil. A puree of young 
 spring turnips, with a sauce made of melted butter, with small 
 capers added to it, is the proper accompaniment. 
 
 Lamb Tongues a la Soubise. 
 
 Parboil, scrape and pare as many tongues as you wish to 
 serve persons, put in saucepan with salt, parsley, celery, pepper- 
 corns and water enough to cover. Cook slowly till very tender, 
 
 drain and keep warm while the liquid is strained, freed from 
 fat and reduced to a demi-glaze, pour a little soubise sauce (see 
 page 42) in a dish, cut tongues in two and arrange in a rosette, 
 pour more sauce in the center and the demi-glaze over the 
 meat and serve. 
 
 Leg of Mutton or Lamb Rechauffe. 
 
 Slice the tender part into nice pieces for serving. Cut up the 
 trimmings and bones and stew with an onion in water to cover 
 until tender. Strain, remove the fat, heat again, and thicken 
 the liquor with flour cooked in hot butter. Add one teaspoon 
 of mixed mustard and salt and pepper to taste. Simmei 
 minutes, then add the sliced meat and two tablespoons of 
 capers, and serve as soon as the meat is hot. There should be 
 about one cup of sauce to a pint or more of meat. 
 
 VEAL. 
 
 Gouffu, the great authority on French cookery, says that a 
 veal cutlet when well trimmed weighs seven or eight ounces, 
 and that it is cut from the neck of the veal. This is plainly 
 not the veal cutlet of our market. The thick por- 
 tion of the neck of veal which the French make into the most 
 delicious little cutlets is utilized here chiefly for potpies and 
 stews. 
 
 By purchasing the entire fore-quarter of veal we may secure 
 it at a very low price, because of the breast, which, though it is 
 a most delicious cut when properly stuffed and braised, is little 
 known and generally despised. This fore-quarter contains the. 
 ribs, which correspond to the favorite rib-roast of beef. 
 From these are cut the best chops, which become less choice in 
 quality the nearer we come to the neck. The rack of veal, as 
 the chops are known to the marketmen, cut entire, makes an 
 excellent roasting piece, equalled only by the loin and the fillet. 
 It is probably to be preferred for this purpose in a well-grown 
 calf. Sometimes the breast of veal is left on and turned over 
 on the ribs to allow for a stuffing roast, but this is not a good 
 plan. The ribs require quite a different treatment from the 
 breast. The neck of the veal, after the scrag end, is passed, 
 which is only fit for broth and stews, may be cut into excellent 
 little breakfast cutlets or chops, as they would probably be 
 called in our markets, though the true chop is always taken 
 from the ribs. The fleshy portions of the foreleg or shin of 
 veal, make excellent potpies or stews, and the leg itself may 
 be used for soup or stock. 
 
 A roast-rack of veal is most properly served by itself without 
 stuffing. Season the meat thoroughly with salt and pepper, 
 rub it with butter and dredge it with flour and lay it on a rack 
 in the dripping-pan. The oven should be heated very hot at 
 the beginning, and the roast should be turned twice in the firs; 
 fifteen minutes to thoroughly glaze the surface of the meat and 
 seal up its juices. After this a cup of boiling water should be 
 poured in the bottom of the pan, and the meat should be 
 basted with a little broth or stock and roasted steadily for an 
 hour and a quarter longer, basting once in every fifteen 
 minutes. After the first basting, the liquor in the bottom of 
 the pan may be used for this purpose. If the liquor in the 
 bottom of the pan seems exhausted after the basting, add a 
 little more water to it to prevent its burning. Eight potatoes 
 peeled and laid in the pan during the last three-quarters of an 
 hour that the meat is roasting are an excellent garnish and 
 accompaniment. Sweet potatoes are especially good cooked in 
 this way. The potatoes should always be basted when the 
 meat is basted to insure their being well flavored with the 
 juices of the meat and nicely browned. 
 
 Shoulder of Veal. 
 
 Veal at its best and well cooked is wholesome, but 
 under-done veal is a thing to be shunned. Chop the ends 
 of the ribs into neat square pieces and use them next day as an 
 entree. Take out the shoulder blade without cutting the meat 
 more than is absolutely necessary. If the butcher does not 
 remove the blade it may be accomplished as follows: Lay the 
 joint on the table, outer or skin part downwards, make 
 incisions on both sides of the knuckle until the smallest end is 
 free from the meat; now keep the knife close to the bone, using 
 care not to cut through the outer skin. Pull on the bones 
 firmly with the left hand while cutting. When the bone is 
 quite free disjoint it at the socket and remove it. Then stuff 
 the meat with well seasoned bread or rice stuffing, turn it over 
 and put it in the pan, add a very little water and a sliced onion. 
 Salt and pepper the joint. Add also a little sweet butter to 
 prevent the outside pan drying too much, baste frequently and 
 cook an hour and three-quarters. 
 
16 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 Fillet of Veal, Roasted. 
 
 About eight or ten pounds of the fillet, ham force-meat (see 
 rule for force-meat), half a cup of butter, half a teaspoon 
 of pepper, two tablespoons of salt, two lemons, half a pound 
 of salt pork. Rub the salt and pepper into the veal, then fill 
 the cavity from which the bone was taken, with the force- 
 meat. Skewer and tie the fillet into a round shape. Cut the 
 pork into thin slices and put half of these on a tin sheet that 
 will fit into the dripping pan; place this in the pan, and the 
 fillet on it. Cover the veal with the remainder of the pork. 
 Put hot water enough in the pan to just cover the bottom, and 
 place in the oven. Bake slowly for four hours, basting 
 frequently with the gravy in the pan and with salt, pepper and 
 fiour. As the water in the pan cooks away, it must be renewed, 
 remembering to have only enough to keep the meat and pan 
 from burning. After it has been cooking three hours, take the 
 pork from the top of the fillet, spread the top thickly with 
 butter and dredge with flour. Repeat this after thirty 
 minutes, and then brown handsomely. Put the remainder of 
 the butter, which should be about three tablespoons, in a sauce- 
 pan, and, when hot, add two heaping tablespoons of flour, and 
 stir until dark brown. Add to it half a pint of stock or water; 
 stir a minute and set back where it will keep warm, but not 
 cook. Now take up the fillet and skim all the fat off of the 
 gravy, add water enough to make half a pint of gravy, also the 
 sauce just made. Let this boil up and add the juice of half a 
 lemon, and more salt and pepper if needed. Strain and pour 
 around the fillet. Garnish the dish with potatolpuffs and slices 
 of lemon. 
 
 Roast Veal, No. 2. 
 
 Six pounds breast of veal, boned, sponged and pounded to 
 uniform thickness; rub both sides with salt and pepper and lay 
 Hat on board. Spread evenly with stuffing to within an inch of 
 the edges, roll loosely and sew or tie in shape. Dredge well 
 with flour, lay on a rack in the dripping-pan, laying thin narrow 
 strips of fat salt pork over the upper side. Set on a grate in a 
 very hot oven till the surface is well browned, then bake more 
 slowly, covering the meat with a buttered paper if it browns too 
 fast. Allow a full half hour for each pound, with an extra 
 half hour if the roast is large. Baste once in twenty minutes 
 with two tablespoons butter melted in one cup hot water, or 
 add water to the drippings in the pan and use. 
 
 Stuffing: One pint fine bread or cracker crumbs, one level 
 teaspoon salt, one tablespoon thyme or summer savory, one 
 scant teaspoon white pepper, one-half teaspoon onion juice. 
 Moisten with one egg well beaten, two heaping tablespoons 
 butter melted in one cup hot water, or use one inch salt pork 
 chopped fine in place of butter. 
 
 Fricandeau of Veal. 
 
 Cut a block weighing about three pounds from the leg, 
 remove the sinews and lard the top with rather small strips of 
 salt pork. Brown it lightly in a frying-pan and lay on a bed of 
 one sliced carrot, one sliced onion and a bouquet. Season with 
 one scant tablespoon salt, a dust of pepper; cover the bottom 
 of the pan with white broth and cook in a braising pan for one 
 and one-half hours, basting occasionally. Serve with one-half 
 pint puree of spinach on the dish, placing the veal on top. 
 
 Galantine of Veal, No. 1. 
 
 Take a piece of breast of veal, about twelve to fourteen 
 inches long; bone and trim it carefully, removing all gristle 
 and superfluous fat, as well as some of the meat (about one 
 pound.) Take the meat and one-half pound of fat bacon; 
 pound together in a mortar, season with powdered spice and 
 sweet herbs, pepper and salt to taste, then pass the mixture 
 through a wire sieve. Cut one-half pound of boiled tongue 
 in pieces about an inch square; cut half a dozen truffles, each 
 into three or four pieces. Lay the prepared breast of veal, skin 
 downwards on the table, sprinkle it with pepper, salt and 
 powdered spices; lay the pounded meat, the truffles, and the 
 tongue on it, then roll it up neatly as a roly poly pudding, and 
 tie it up tightly in a cloth. Put all the trimmings and bones of 
 the breast into a saucepan large enough to hold the galantine, 
 add a calf's foot cut in pieces, the trimmings of the bacon 
 (they must be perfectly sweet), two or three onions and two 
 carrots cut in pieces, a clove of garlic, a bunch of sweet herbs 
 (thyme, marjoram, parsley and bay leaf), cloves, whole pepper, 
 mace and salt in proportions, according to taste. Fill up with 
 such quantity of cold water as will leave room for the galan- 
 tine to be put in. Set the saucepan on the fire, when the 
 contents begin to boil put in the galantine. Let it boil gently 
 without interruption from two to two and a half hours. Then 
 lift it out, put it on a plate, and when it has cooled a little take 
 
 off the cloth, tie it up afresh, and lay it between two dishes 
 with a moderate weight upon it, to remain till cold. Care must 
 be taken in this last operation that the "seam" of the galantine 
 be made to come undermost. When quite cold undo the cloth, 
 glaze the galantine, and garnish it with savory jelly made from 
 the liquor in which it was boiled. 
 
 Veal Loaf. 
 
 Three and one-half pounds of minced veal (the leg is best for 
 this purpose), three eggs well beaten, one tablespoon of pepper 
 and one of salt, one grated nutmeg, four rolled crackers, one 
 tablespoon of cream, butter the size of an egg. Mix these 
 together and make into a loaf, roast and baste like other meats. 
 Beef may be used in place of veal by adding one-fourth pound 
 of salt pork, minced fine. 
 
 Veal Pot-Pie. 
 
 .One quart pieces of cold cooked veal, either roast or braised. 
 Season with one scant teaspoon salt,one-half saltspoon pepper, 
 one teaspoon shredded onion, pile loosely in a three pint or two 
 quart pan, fill to almost cover the meat with gravy, stock or 
 water. Cover and set on top of stove to heat while making 
 
 Crust: One quart flour, one even teaspoon salt, two heaping 
 teaspoons baking powder, one heaping tablespoon butter, well 
 rubbed together. Mix as quickly as possible with enough cold 
 milk to make a soft dough. Shape on the board into a flat cake 
 to fit the pan. Cut holes to let the steam escape, lay quickly 
 over the boiling meat and bake about forty minutes in a rather 
 hot oven. While baking make 
 
 Gravy: Put all bones and scraps into one pint cold water, 
 cover and set where it will simmer as long as possible. When 
 wanted for use brown one tablespoon flour in one tablespoon 
 butter, strain the hot stock over it, stirring well. Boil three 
 minutes, adding more seasoning if needed, and serve with the 
 pie. If the pie is to be eaten cold, pour this gravy through the 
 crust to bed the pieces of meat in a jelly. 
 
 Calf's Head, Tortue Sauce. 
 
 Take out the brains and lay them in ice-cold salted water. 
 Wash the head thoroughly and cover with cold water, boil 
 until the flesh will drop from the bones; lift from the kettle and 
 take out every bone; put the kettle, with the water in which the 
 head was boiled, back on the range, and add to it a knuckle of 
 ham or a half pound of lean ham. When this soup has boiled 
 three hours gently, strain it into a stone jar, and leave it until 
 the next day for moclt turtle soup. 
 
 Cut the thick skin and flesh of the calf's head into two-inch 
 strips and keep it warm. Make the Tortue Sauce thus: One 
 and one-half pints of brown consomme, one bay leaf, the 
 liquor from half a can of mushrooms, half a can of tomatoes; 
 boil about fifteen minutes and strain. Put it back into a sauce- 
 pan with a dozen mushrooms cut into halves, one truffle 
 chopped finely, and one large wineglass of sherry. Let it boil 
 for five minutes, stirring in at the last one teaspoon of blended 
 flour; boil up once and pour over the calf s head. Garnish with 
 new beets sliced, water cresses or parsley. 
 
 Veal Tongues. 
 
 Lay fresh veal tongues in brine for twenty-four hours, then 
 wash and drop into boiling water enough to cover well. Bring 
 to boil again as quickly as possible and boil fast five minutes; 
 then set back where it will only simmer, and skim well. As it 
 boils away fill up with cold water. Allow one hour to each 
 pound of a large tongue, in cooking small ones remove as soon 
 as tender. Peel carefully, reheat and serve with Sauce 
 Piquante. Page 43. 
 
 Veal Tongues, a la Tartare. 
 
 Have ready six veal tongues which have been boiled till 
 tender, the skins removed, and rolled neatly, pressed between 
 two plates until cold. Dip each in egg and bread crumbs, 
 brown well on each side in hot butter. Dish them u-pon cold 
 Tartare sauce, garnish with pickles and serve. These are 
 delicious when cut in small bits and heated in a Hollandaise, 
 Bechamel or any good sauce that can be made in a chafing-dish. 
 
 Calf's Liver. 
 
 Calf's liver is braised in the same way as the fricandeau of 
 veal, except that sweet herbs are added to the broth, and just 
 before serving one-half pint of Spanish sauce is poured over it. 
 It will cook in forty-five minutes. Strain the thickened gravy 
 over and garnish with small boiled onions. 
 
/ 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 17 
 
 SWEETBREADS. 
 
 Sweetbreads. 
 
 Sweetbreads are found in calves and lambs. The demand 
 for salves' sweetbreads has grown wonderfully within the past 
 ten years In all our large cities they sell at all times of the 
 year for a high price, but in winter and early spring they cost 
 in. ire than twice as much as they do late in the spnngand 
 during' the summer. The throat and heart sweetbreads are 
 often sold as one, but in winter, when they bring a very high 
 price the former is sold for the same price as the latter. Ihe 
 throat sweetbread is found immediately below the throat. It 
 has an elongated form, is not so lirm and tat, and has not the 
 S tine flavor of the heart sweetbread. The heart sweetbread is 
 ' attached to the last rib, and lies near the heart. The form is 
 somewhat rounded, and it is smooth and firm. 
 
 To Clean Sweetbreads. 
 
 Carefully pull off all the tough and fibrous skin. Place 
 them >in a dish of cold water for ten minutes or more, and 
 they are then ready to be boiled. They must always be boiled 
 in Slightly salted water with a little lemon juice twenty min- 
 utes, no matter what the mode of cooking is to be. 
 
 Sweetbreads Larded and Baked. 
 
 When the sweetbreads have been cleaned, draw through 
 each one four very thin pieces of pork (about the size of a 
 match). Drop them into cold water for five or ten minutes, 
 then into hot water, and boil twenty minutes. Take out, 
 spread with butter, dredge with salt, pepper and flour, and 
 bake twenty minutes in a quick oven. Serve with green peas, 
 well drained, seasoned with salt and butter, and heaped in the 
 center of the dish. Lay the sweetbreads around them and 
 pour a cream sauce around the edge of the dish. Garnish with 
 parsley. One pint of cream sauce is sufficient for eight or ten 
 aweetbreads. 
 
 Sweetbread Saute. 
 
 One sweetbread, after being boiled, split and cut into four 
 pieces. Season with salt and pepper. Put in a small frying- 
 pan one small tablespoon of butter, and the same quantity of 
 flour When hot put in the sweetbreads, turn constantly until 
 a light brown. They will fry in about eight minutes. Serve 
 with cream sauce or tomato sauce. 
 
 Broiled Sweetbreads. 
 
 Split the sweetbread after being boiled. Season with salt 
 and pepper, rub thickly with butter and sprinkle with flour. 
 Broil over a rather quick fire, turning constantly. Cook about 
 ten minutes and serve with cream sauce. 
 
 Sweetbreads in Cases. 
 
 Cut the sweetbreads, after being boiled, in very small pieces. 
 Season with salt and pepper and moisten well with cream 
 sauce. Fill the paper cases, and cover with bread crumbs. 
 Brown and serve. 
 
 Sweetbreads Braised. 
 
 Take six blanched sweetbreads, lard the upper side slightly 
 and saute them with some bits of fat pork; add one-half cup 
 each of sliced onion and carrot and a bouquet, dredge with salt 
 and flour and bake until a golden brown, then moisten with 
 one pint strong white stock. Cover with a buttered paper and 
 cook in a hot oven forty minutes, lifting the paper often to 
 baste them. They will then be ready to serve with any desired 
 sauce. 
 
 Spindled Sweetbreads. 
 
 Soak, parboil and blanch as usual. Cut in two inch pieces, 
 moisten each piece with melted butter and roll in very line 
 seasoned bread crumbs. String on skewers alternately with 
 bits of bacon and broil over a hot fire till brown. Lay on toast 
 and garnish with parsley, or stack them and garnish with 
 celery. 
 
 Brown Fricassee of Sweetbreads. 
 
 Parboil ten minutes Remove fat and membranes, dredge 
 with flour and fry till quite brown in butter with a minced 
 onion.A4jUt> the butter one cup of veal stock and two table- 
 oi«- ■-' .dhroom ketchup, or half a cup of tomatoes and 
 -spoon of chopped parsley. Season to taste with salt 
 • _. pepper, cover, and stew slowlv for half an hour. Strain 
 the gravy and pour it over the sweetbreads. 
 
 Bouchees de Riz dc Veau (Sweetbread Patties). 
 
 From what is left of a dish of stewed sweetbreads, cut up as 
 many small dice, as is possible. Tak the sauce or 
 
 gravy, make, it hoi in a bain marie, strain it on the sweetbread 
 make the whole boiling hot in the bain marie, and till the 
 patties with it. if the sweetbreads were garnished with mush- 
 rooms, treat what is left Of the mushrooms in the same way as 
 the sweetbreads, and put the two together to warm in the sauce. 
 
 Croustades dc Riz de Veau (Sweetbread Croustadc 
 
 Fill some bread or rice croustades with a ragout composed of 
 remnants of Stewed sweet breads, warmed in brown sauce, with 
 the addition of either truffles or mushrooms, or both. 
 
 PORK. 
 
 The main points in buying pork are to purchase from a 
 dealer who has all his meat tested by a microscopist, and then 
 to choose young meat, not over-loaded with fat. In whatever 
 manner pork is cooked it should be thoroughly done, twenty 
 minutes to the pound is none too much. 
 
 Pork Chops and Steaks. 
 
 Chops are cut from the loin and ribs; cuts from the leg and 
 shoulder being known as steaks. Either piece is best cooked 
 by laying them in a frying-pan until well seared on each side, 
 then drain off all the fat and set into a hot oven for live or ten 
 minutes, according to the thickness of the piece. Season with 
 pepper and salt just before laying in the pan, and serve with 
 fried apples or a pickle gravy. 
 
 Pork steaks, chops and even roasting pieces may be cooked 
 ready to serve then covered with lard. They will keep per- 
 fectly for weeks, and when wanted the lard can be melted, the 
 meat reheated, and any sauce desired served with them. 
 
 Roast Pork. 
 
 The chine, loin, and the spare-ribs, are the best pieces for 
 roasting. Rub well with pepper or sage, salt and flour, and 
 bake twenty minutes for each pound. Baste often and do not 
 have the oven as hot as for other meat. Roast pork is more 
 wholesome when eaten cold. Serve Pomona rice. 
 
 Roast Leg of Pork. 
 
 If used with the skin on score it in inch squares, taking care 
 to cut only through the skin. Make a cut just below the 
 knuckle with a boning knife, slide the knife up along the bone 
 and turn it outward, making a half-dozen cuts two-thirds of 
 the way to the skin and till them with* this: 
 
 Stuffing: One cup grated bread crumbs, one medium 
 sized sour apple and one small onion chopped fine (chop the 
 onion to a paste before the apple is put in), six powdered sage 
 leaves, two tablespoons butter, pepper and salt; melt the butter, 
 add the crumbs, rubbing them hard to distribute the butter 
 evenly, add the seasonings and two beaten egg yolks. Half an 
 hour before serving sprinkle with one tablespoon cracker 
 crumbs seasoned with pepper, salt and sage; do not baste again. 
 Serve with this apple sauce. Wipe, quarter and core twelve 
 tart cooking apples; steam till tender and sprinkle with four 
 tablespoons sugar and a little salt, Do not make it too sweet; 
 if the apples are not much sour add the juice of a half lemon. 
 
 Roast Pork. 
 
 The choicest piece is the loin, but the spare-ribs are good. 
 The meat is usually cut quite close from these and used for 
 steaks, but if a nice roast is wanted order the meat left on. 
 Follow the general directions for roasting and allow thirty 
 minutes for each pound. Serve with apples roasted in the 
 same pan or fried, or with canned barberries. Save all the 
 dripping from the baking pan and see that the glaze is all dis- 
 solved. If the oven has not been too hot this fat will serve for 
 frying and the gravy can be made to serve with the cold roast 
 when it is really nicer. 
 
 The loin does not require so long cooking, twenty minutes to 
 the pound, with a quarter hour's grace, will do. 
 
 The chine or rump is liked by many, but the meat is dry; it 
 may be daubed with salt pork or stuffed in a half dozen places 
 with the following: 
 
 Stuffing: Three tablespoons grated crumbs, one table- 
 spoon finely chopped salt pork, ten drops of onion juice, one- 
 half teaspoon sage, one-half saltspoon pepper. Gash the meat 
 with a boning knife and press the stuffing in. Baste often. 
 
18 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 Pork Tenderloins, No. 1. 
 
 Split open and broil. Brown well and thoroughly, but do not 
 burn. Season with pepper, salt and one freshly powdered sage 
 leaf for each one. If very dry rub with soft butter. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 Split, but do not cut quite in two, put in a layer of oysters 
 that have been dipped in soft butter and then in seasoned 
 bread crumbs. Wind with coarse thread a dozen turns, but not 
 too tight, brown on each side quickly and then lift from the 
 fire for ten minutes more cooking. Tartar sauce. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 Split and fry in pan with butter. Allow one tablespoon 
 chopped pickles with mustard to each one, heat in butter and 
 pour over. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 Split them nearly through, so that they will lie flat. Make a 
 dressing with bread, butter, salt, pepper, onion and a little sage. 
 Spread the dressing on one-half the tenderloin, turn the other 
 half over it and sew all around. Bake. 
 
 Fricatelli. 
 
 Chop one pound raw fresh pork very fine, add one teaspoon 
 salt, one saltspoon pepper, one-half teaspoon onion juice (half 
 as much stale bread crumbs), two eggs beaten together, mix 
 well, taste, add more seasoning if needed. Shape in cakes the 
 size and thickness of a large oyster. Pan-broil them on as hot 
 a pan as possible. If there is any fear that they are not 
 thoroughly cooked, transfer to a tin plate and set in oven 
 but they should not be kept on the pan more than two 
 minutes for each side. Good for breakfast with baked or 
 fried potato, For supper serve with parsley and lemon or cold 
 slaw. 
 
 Pork Pie. 
 
 English style. Take two pounds of fresh raw pork— neck or 
 trimmings will do— cut it in pieces the size of an English wal- 
 nut, season with salt and pepper and two glasses sherry or di- 
 luted vinegar; let it steep an hour and turn it once in ten 
 minutes; have one pound of good and fine sausage meat. 
 Take one measure of pie paste (see page 62), and line the 
 bottom and sides of a well buttered pie mould, put a thin 
 layer of sausage on the bottom, then half the pork, another 
 layer of sausage, the rest of the pork, and finish with sausage 
 meat. Wet the edge of the pie, roll the cover to fit, pinch the 
 two edges lightly, egg the surface, ornament with pretty shapes 
 of the paste, cut a two inch hole in the center and fill with a 
 roll of paper to keep it open; brush again with egg and bake 
 in a moderate oven for about three hours; the oven should be 
 quick enough to set the paste for the first half hour, and as 
 soon as the meat steams up reduce the heat. When done, fill 
 with meat jelly; allow it to cool thoroughly in the mould, then 
 take it off and serve on a folded napkin. It is quite as good, 
 though not so ornamental* if baked in an ordinary two-quart 
 pan. Do not cover the bottom with crust; make a rim two 
 inches wide and half an inch thick; fill and cover as before. 
 Cut the rest of the paste in leaf shapes, bake in a quick oven 
 and arrange on the jellied meat when the pie is turned out. 
 Set the broad ends in the center and put rounds or stars of 
 paste on the outer edge between their tips. 
 
 Breakfast Bacon. 
 
 Remove the rind, slice as thin as paper with the same machine 
 that is used to slice dried beef. Lay the slices in a cold pan and 
 set over a moderate fire. Watch and turn them often and as 
 soon as they look opaque, tilt the pan, draw the slices up from 
 the grease to dry, and transfer to a thick brown paper to drain 
 before laying them on the platter. They should hardly grease 
 the fingers, and should be perfectly crisp. 
 
 Breakfast Bacon, No. 2. 
 
 Slice the bacon very thin, cut off the rind and hard part 
 before slicing. Fill a shallow pan with cold sweet potatoes 
 sliced. Cover the potatoes with the bacon and bake until the 
 pork is crisp. 
 
 Fried Salt Pork. 
 
 Cut in quarter inch slices, take off the rind, freshen if very 
 salt, fry slowly and evenly till dry. It is a good garnish for 
 fish, fish balls, tripe, etc., and is quite good enough to serve by 
 itself with baked potatoes and a white gravy made like a white 
 sauce, only the fat from the pork is used instead of butter. If 
 there is much salt in the pan see that it is mostly removed 
 before beginning the gravy. 
 
 Roast Hani. 
 
 Wash and scrape carefully and soak in cold water twenty- 
 four hours. Scrape again and dry thoroughly. Make a dough 
 with two quarts of flour and water enough for a stiff paste. 
 Roll this into a sheet large enough to wrap the ham; fold the 
 ham in it and place on a meat rack in the dripping pan. Bake 
 in a moderate oven six hours. On taking from the oven 
 remove the paste and skin, sprinkle with fine crumbs and return 
 to the oven for half an hour. Dust very carefully with cayenne 
 and baste every five minutes with wine, using one cup claret 
 and two tablespoons sherry. It will be delicious either hot or 
 cold, and is especially nice if served hot with champagne sauce. 
 
 Stuffed Ham. 
 
 Soak a ten to twelve pound ham in cold water over night. 
 In the morning remove the bone and fill with stuffing. Sew up 
 the slit where the bone was taken out and bind the ham firmly 
 in a strong piece of cotton. Boil slowly for two or three hours 
 and cool in the bandage. When cold, remove the rind and 
 brown fat. Sprinkle with sugar and fine crumbs. Bake about 
 one hour in a very moderate oven and serve either hot or 
 cold. 
 
 Stuffing: One pound of pecans or chestnuts, one can 
 mushrooms, six truffles, one slice raw ham, one ounce mustard 
 seed, two cucumber pickles. Boilthe nuts till they are tender 
 enough to chop fine. Cut the truffles into strips and chop all 
 the other ingredients. Season to taste with one-half saltspoon 
 red pepper, one saltspoon allspice, one saltspoon cloves, two 
 tablespoons parsley, one tablespoon onion and salt and add 
 enough raw egg to make the whole into a soft paste. 
 
 Boiled Hani. 
 
 Soak in cold water until the outside can be scraped and 
 brushed clean; cut away every bit that seems rusty. Put it in 
 a boiler where it will have plenty of room and can be covered 
 an inch deep. It should be two hours in coming to a boil, then 
 simmer fifteen minutes for every pound. It should cool in the 
 pot, but if this cannot be, let it stand two hours at least. To 
 finish in the oven peel the skin carefully in two inch strips, 
 brush with beaten egg and dust thickly with fine bread crumbs. 
 Set in an oven quick enough to brown in fifteen minutes. 
 
 Make rings or figures with cloves stuck in the crust before 
 browning, add a paper ruffle to the shank bone before sending 
 to table; if served hot, send in cauliflower, cabbage, saurkraut, 
 asparagus, spinach or some sort of greens. It is also very 
 handsome bedded in sapic and ornamented with vegetables cut 
 in fancy shapes and cooked separately in stock. To glaze a ham 
 after cooking and peeling, brush with beaten egg and coat with 
 a paste made of one cup cracker crumbs made into a smooth 
 paste with one cup milk and tablespoon melted butter; brown 
 in a moderate oven. French cooks add a teaspoon powdered 
 sugar to the bread crumbs, and there is no objection if they are 
 sure to be browned enough to change all the sugar to caramel. 
 There are many modifications of this rule; Mrs. Rorer adds a 
 bay leaf, a blade of mace and six cloves to the water when 
 first put on. Another famous cook adds one pint sour wine for 
 e/ery five pounds, another uses all cider with a good handful 
 clean hay, still another boils half the allotted time and 
 finishes in a moderate oven, basting every fifteen minutes with 
 vinegar. In any method the main point is to heat gradually, 
 cook slowly and cool in liquor. Of course, if vinegar or sour 
 wine is used the cook will not put it in an iron pot; agate, alum- 
 inum or porcelain lined will do. 
 
 Broiled Ham. 
 
 Cut in very thin slices, remove all the fat and if very salt 
 lay the lean part in hot water for a few minutes. Lay the fat 
 in a frying pan and cook as directed for breakfast bacon, but 
 let come to a delicate brown. Dry the lean part on a soft 
 towel and broil quickly. It will take about two minutes for 
 each side if the fire is as hot as it should be. 
 
 Potted Ham. 
 
 When a ham is boiled there is often much waste of the 
 harder portions and of pieces that do not make presentable 
 slices. Take them while fresh and mince until a smooth paste 
 so that the fat cannot be distinguished from the lean; 
 there should be one-third fat. Allow one pepperspoon cayenne 
 to each pound of meat and salt to taste. Heat thoroughly and 
 pack firmly in small pots. 
 
 Ham Puffs. 
 
 Ham puffs are a change that will be relished by many. Stir 
 a pint of flour into a pint of boiling water; beat it well. Take 
 it from the fire and beat in four eggs, one at a time; add the 
 
'/ 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 19 
 
 Jftam, about three ounces of it, finely chopped, two-thirda of a 
 teaspoon of curry powder, a pinch of cayenne pepper and a 
 little salt, unless the ham is salt enough without it. Into a 
 pan of deep lard drop this batter, a small desert-spoon at a 
 time, fry a golden brown and decorate with paisley. 
 
 Roast Pig. 
 
 It should be from three to six weeks old. Choose it like a 
 chicken, plump, with small bones. They arc always scalded 
 and scraped by the butcher, but this is not half the business of 
 cleaning. If there is a strong animal odor wash thoroughly in 
 warm water, then in soda and water for five minutes; during 
 this time cleanse all the passages of the head and throat 
 with a wooden skewer wrapped in a .small piece of 
 soft cloth, changing it often; wash again with clear 
 water and wipe inside. If it is not time to cook wrap 
 in a wet cloth to keep the skin soft and white and keep 
 cool. It may be tilled with mashed potato, veal force meat 
 or a stuffing made as follows: One cup bread crumbs, one 
 heaping tablespoon chopped suet, one teaspoon each of 
 minced parsley, sage, salt and onion, one-half teaspoon pepper, 
 a dust of nutmeg and one of thyme, one tablespoon lemon 
 juice and two of melted butter, a cup of oyster liquor (plain 
 stock will do), and two well beaten eggs. Stuff the pig into its 
 natural size and shape, sew and truss. Bend the fore feet 
 backward from the knee and the hind legs forward. Set in a 
 moderate oven at first and increase the heat gradually. In half 
 an hour begin basting: use melted butter until there is enough 
 fat from the pig; brush thoroughly once in ten minutes, cove" 
 the ears and tail with caps of oiled paper, serve in a bed of 
 prrsley.with a lemon in the mouth (this should be propped 
 open from the first with a potato of the same size). It is quite 
 as agreeable also to serve surrounded with heaps of cauliflower 
 and to put a handful in its mouth; the sprigs hide the shrivelled 
 skin better than the lemon does. 
 
 Ears. (Calf or Pig, No. 1.) 
 
 Parboil six well scalded and cleaned white calves' ears. 
 Cook in a saucepan with a white stock made with a glass of 
 vinegar, an ounce of flour and water enough to cover the ears; 
 add one teaspoon salt, a small onion stuck with two cloves, one 
 dozen peppercorns and one tablespoon chopped beef suet; boil, 
 cover and simmer until tender, — about an hour. With tomata 
 sauce. Drain, pare, cut out the centers, cool and fill with 
 cooked force meat (one good teaspoon is enough) (see page 38). 
 If they lie too flat put a long stitch through the edges, about 
 half way down and tie in position; egg and crumb and fry in 
 deep fat, not too hot. Drain and serve on a folded napkin 
 with fried parsley and serve with lemons cut in lengths. Send 
 in a bowl of tomato sauce. — Felix J. Beliee in "Franco- Amer- 
 ican Cookery." 
 
 No. 2. With mushrooms. Prepare as before; range the ears 
 point outward on a platter and pour in the center one pint 
 fresh mushrooms in Madeira sauce; lay a heart-shaped crouton 
 of fried bread between each of the ears. — Felix J. Beliee . 
 
 No. 3. Lyonnaise. Prepare as directed; drain, cool and cut 
 into shreds; fry brown two sliced onions in butter, sprinkle 
 with one tablespoon flour and blend with a pint of beef broth, 
 add salt, pepper and a teaspoon of vinegar, boil ten minutes, 
 add the ears and boil ten minutes longer. Serve in a shallow 
 dish garnished with six triangles of brown bread sautiied in 
 butter. — Felix J. Beliee. 
 
 Braised Liver. (Veal). 
 
 Scald slightly by pouring boiling water over, remove the thin 
 skin that covers it and pull out as many of the large veins as 
 can be removed without breaking it too much. Lard the upper 
 side and dredge with pepper, salt and flour and brown all over 
 in hot drippings. Lay on a bed of vegetables and parsley in a 
 pan not much larger than will hold it easily. Half cover with 
 some good beef broth, cover closely and set into a hot oven for 
 about one hour. Baste every fifteen minutes and leave it open 
 to brown the top at the last. Thicken the liquor in the pan 
 with a tablespoon of cornstarch, add more seasoning and cara- 
 mel to color if necessary and strain the gravy around the liver 
 on a deep platter. 
 
 Heart. 
 
 The heart is often stuffed with a tablespoon of bread-crumbs 
 well seasoned with thyme, onion juice, salt and pepper and 
 moistened with melted butter. Lard the sides with three rows 
 of fine lardoons, brown it well and lay by the side of the liver. 
 It will need to be turned once or twice. 
 
 Stewed Liver. 
 
 Parboil for twenty minutes, thei, , inch dice, freeing 
 
 from skin and strings. Have ready a pint of good brown 
 
 sauce, add one gil] of cooking wine, a pint and a hall of 
 liver; let simmer till the liver is soft, add more seasoning if 
 needed and serve with a garnish of broiled potatoes. 
 
 Chicken Livers en Brochette. 
 
 Clean and parboil as usual, roll in seasoned dour and string 
 
 them on a skewer alternately with small squares of b 
 Broil over a clear fire until the baron is crisp. Serve on | 
 If one has a gas stove, by all means lay the pieces of toast 
 under the skewer to catch the dripping gravy. Send quai 
 lemon to the table with it. 
 
 Liver with Chestnuts. 
 
 Boil the livers from two fowds or a turkey. When tender 
 mash them line. Boil one pint of shelled chestnuts until soft. 
 Blanch and mash them to a smooth paste. Rub the ■ 
 and liver through a puree-strainer. Season to taste with salt, 
 pepper and lemon juice and moisten with melted butter. 
 Spread the paste on bread like sandwiches, or add enough hot 
 chicken stock to make a puree. Heat again and season with 
 salt, pepper and lemon juice.— Mrs. B. A. Lincoln. 
 
 Liver and Kidneys. 
 
 Liver and kidneys are only fit for food when taken from very 
 young animals. The liver is peculiarly subject to degenerative 
 changes, and if of a dark color, or with hard knots in it, either 
 darker or lighter than the surrounding tissue, it should be ent i rely 
 rejected. The kidneys are the main organs for excreting waste 
 matter from the system, and after performing that function 
 for several months are no longer suitable food for human 
 beings. They should be thrown into plenty of cold salted 
 water as soon as possible after taking them "from the animal, 
 and soaked until needed for use. Rub and press gently with 
 the hand to extract the blood, then dry on a soft cloth. 
 
 Liver and Bacon. 
 
 Prepare the bacon as directed for breakfast bacon. Cut the 
 liver in slices one-third inch thick, parboil for five minutes, dry 
 well and roll in seasoned flour. Lay the slices in smoking hot 
 bacon fat and when they are brown on each side they will be 
 sufficiently cooked. 
 
 Chicken Livers in Sandwich Paste. 
 
 Wash and soak well in salt and water. Put on to cook in 
 cold water and let simmer fifteen minutes after it begins to 
 boil. Free from all the skin and strings and rub to a smooth 
 paste, adding highly seasoned strong stock to soften the dry 
 bits. Press through a puree-sieve and to a cup of the sifted 
 liver add three tablespoons soft butter and work smooth with a 
 wooden spoon. The juice from fresh mushrooms is a great 
 improvement and if you have bits of truffle to put in it will 
 seem much more like the imported pate-de-foie-gras. Add 
 more salt and pepper if needed and set away to cool. If too 
 stiff when cold reheat and add a little oil from the fat of 
 chicken. 
 
 Liver a la Bordelaise. 
 
 Cut eight medium-sized slices, parboil, trim, pare nicelv. 
 season with salt and pepper, baste with sweet oil and roll in 
 fresh bread crumbs. Broil over a moderate fire till thoroughly 
 well done, dish in a circle, alternating with fillet-shaped slices 
 of Boston brown bread fried in butter; pour a Bordelaise 
 sauce in the center. Page 43. 
 
 Kidney. (Stewed ) 
 
 Take two pair lamb's kidneys when perfectly fresh, split in 
 two and trim with scissors the fat and sinews from the inside. 
 Cut them in small pieces, put them in a stewpan, cover with 
 cold water and bring nearly to the boiling point; do this three 
 times, each time being sure that the water does not boil or the 
 kidneys will be hard. Put one tablespoon butter in a frying- 
 pan and stir until a nice brown; add one tablespoon flour, cook 
 three minutes, add a half pint of stock or boiling water, stir 
 constantly with a wooden spoon until it boils; add one table- 
 spoon Worcestershire, one of mushroom catsup, salt and pep- 
 per and the kidneys; let them heat through, take up, add four 
 tablespoons sherry and serve. — Mrs. Borer. 
 
 i 
 
20 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 Fried Tripe. 
 
 Cut in bits for serving. Roll them in seasoned flour then in 
 egg, and last in very fine dry bread crumbs. Fry a good brown 
 in deep fat, and serve with a leaf of fried parsley on top. 
 
 Tripe in Batter. 
 
 Cut in bits and roll in flour as before. Dip in batter (see 
 page 41) and saute in hot butter. 
 
 Tripe. 
 
 In whatever way it is to be served, tripe is usually better to 
 be simmered gently until perfectly tender in clear water. If it 
 lias a strong smell, add a little vinegar to the water and change 
 it several times. Dry carefully on a cloth before broiling or 
 frying. 
 
 Stewed Tripe. 
 
 One pound of tripe that has not been pickled, wash carefully 
 and cut into inch squares. Put it into a stewpan with a salt- 
 spoon each of salt, sugar and made mustard, with milk enough 
 to cover, about one pint. Boil up and skim carefully, then set 
 back to simmer for three hours, watching closely lest it stick 
 on the bottom of the pan, and skimming again if needed. Mix 
 a desertspoon of gluten flour with a gill of cold milk, and stir 
 it in, simmer half an hour longer and serve with more season- 
 ing if liked. 
 
 Tripe Fricasseed With Onions. 
 
 Simmer as above, but one hour before serving cook six 
 medium sized onions half an hour. Drain and slice them and put 
 them into a dry frying pan with two ounces of butter. Sprinkle 
 over them one teaspoon each of salt, sugar, dry mustard, a salt- 
 spoon of white pepper and a speck of nutmeg. Let them cook 
 till there are delicately browned pieces in the hottest parts, 
 then pour them over the tripe which has been previously thick- 
 ened with two dessertspoons of baked or gluten flour. This 
 should be served at once and very hot. 
 
 POULTRY. 
 
 This meat is not as nutritious as beef and mutton, but its 
 tenderness and flavor renders it most agreeable as a change in 
 the usual bill of fare; neither has it as much fat, except in the 
 case of geese and old fowls, but this can be supplied in the 
 way of butter or cream. Game with dark meat should be 
 cooked rare, as venison, canvas-back duck and almost all birds, 
 while the white-fleshed animals, turkey, chicken, etc., should 
 be well done. 
 
 HOW TO KNOW GOOD FOWLS. 
 
 Choose those that are heavy in proportion to their size; this 
 is a general rule in buying oranges, lobsters or fowls; a bird ten 
 inches from tip to tail has a larger proportion of bone than one 
 of eight inches, and is consequently less profitable. Avoid also 
 a prominent breast bone, although if the bird is desirable in 
 other respects this may be reduced for a roast fowl by running 
 the point of a sharp knife through the joints of the ribs and 
 pressing the whole breast into position; for a broiler it should 
 always be taken out. The best chickens have clean, smooth, 
 yellow feet, moist and delicate skin, and plump breasts; the 
 end of the breast bone yields readily to pressure and the hairs 
 are neither long nor coarse. An old fowl has coarser skin and 
 hairs, roughened scales on legs and feet and the hens usually 
 have too much fat. The combs and spurs show a cock before 
 it is dressed, afterward judge by the distance from the end of 
 breastbone to the rump. The egg producing hen has an 
 abdomen of much greater capacity than a cock; the meat is 
 softer fibred and less highly flavored, it is good to roast, 
 boil or fricassee, and most" of the dark meat can be 
 used for salad; while a cock of more than a year old is 
 better used for croquettes and highly seasoned entrees, 
 though if in good condition they are nice boiled or for soup. 
 The "foregoing is true of turkeys as well. Geese and ducks 
 should not be more than a year old; the breasts will be plump 
 and firm, the fat white and soft, the wings tender, the feet yel- 
 low and the webbing tender. If the windpipe is too tough 
 to crack when pinched the flesh is probably tough also. 
 Young pigeons have tender pink legs and light red flesh on the 
 breast; in old ones it is very dark. Squabs are young tame 
 pigeons; they are as large as old birds, but soft and plump and 
 covered with pin feathers. Grouse, partridge and quail should 
 have full breasts, dark legs and yellowish bills. 
 
 TO CLEAN POULTRY. 
 
 All poultry should be dressed as soon as killed; the feathers 
 come out much easier while the bird is warm and there is no 
 excuse for scalding; pull them, one or two at a time, toward 
 the head, with a quick motion; a sharp-pointed knife or a 
 darning-needle is a help in getting out pin feathers. Draw 
 out the ash pan, drop into it a roll of lighted paper and singe 
 the bird thoroughly; hold it up against the light to see if all 
 have been removed; stray hairs or tufts of down are not a 
 pleasing garnish, nor creditable to the cook; do not smoke or 
 scorch the skin. Now the skin should be carefully wiped with 
 a cloth wet with warm water. Do not put the bird in water 
 unless it must be done, though geese and ducks are so greasily 
 dirty that nothing but soap-suds and a brush will clean them. 
 Dry on a soft towel, take oft' the head and legs, cut open the 
 skin on the back of the neck, disjoint the neck (it can be easily 
 held in a towel) and cut it off close to the body; separate 
 the crop carefully from the skin of the neck and cut off 
 that and the windpipe, insert one finger into the opening at 
 the breast and loosen the organs from the breastbone. It is 
 best to take one's first lesson on a broiler, which, at this stage 
 may be split down the back with a sharp vegetable knife, 
 taking care that the point goes no deeper than is necessary. 
 Now open the chicken like a book and learn the arrangement 
 of the viscera; see the heart and lungs in the chest and find 
 how they are fastened; note the position of the gizzard on the 
 left side capped by the two lobes of the liver and connected 
 with the coil of intestines or entrails below; take out the 
 kidneys from their bony sockets near the base of the back- 
 bone and the last bit of the lungs from the spaces between the 
 ribs; these organs are often eaten and in a young healthy bird 
 are not unwholesome; but they, as well as the liver, are partic- 
 ularly liable to disease, and should never be used from an old 
 fowl. All this can be done in a little time and the lesson 
 learned can be applied to drawing a fowl for roasting — a 
 process too often both, tedious and disgusting. 
 
 If the fowl is to be dressed for fricassee, it should be jointed 
 first, that is, legs and wings cut smoothly off; find the joint in 
 the back, make a cut toit with the point of the knife on each 
 side from the end of the breast-bone; bend the body backward 
 and empty it of viscera in the same way as before; cut out the 
 oil bag in the tail, wipe with a damp cloth and the fowl is 
 ready to cook, with not a tissue broken but what is necessary to 
 get rid of inedible portions. 
 
 It is a little more difficult to prepare for roasting; remove 
 crop as before; cut around the vent with a scissors, lengthen 
 the slit enough to admit two or three fingers, slide them cau- 
 tiously around the mass inside until the heart is reached and 
 held, and the whole bulk detached from breast and backbone; 
 it can then be drawn down and out, care must be taken to keep 
 them all together; if dragged apart there is danger either that 
 the entrails or the gall bladder may be broken; this last is an 
 almost fatal accident, for if the fowl is washed and soaked 
 enough to get rid of that bitter taste it will have lost much of 
 its own flavor. 
 
 Roast Turkey or Chicken. 
 
 For a roast turkey or chicken cut through the skin of the 
 leg an inch or two below the joint; break the bone by a light 
 blow with the back of the cleaver and draw out the tendons, 
 picking them up one by one with a stout fork or a wooden 
 skewer, leave the bits of leg bone on till the fowl is roasted; it 
 is much easier to fasten them in position and they can easily be 
 taken off before serving. 
 
 To Stuff a Fowl. 
 
 The easiest way is to set it in a deep bowl; fill the breast till 
 it is rather plump, but do not put in as much as it will hold; 
 the stuffing swells in cooking; it might crack the skin and 
 would surely be heavy. Fold the skin of the neck neatly but 
 loosely back and fasten with a bird skewer, turn the bird and 
 fill the body, but do not crowd; if the opening is more than 
 three or four inches it should be closed by half a dozen deep 
 stitches; use a large darner and soft cotton, do not draw the 
 thread tight nor try to tie it; leave a long end for convenience 
 in pulling out. 
 
 To Truss a Fowl. 
 
 Push the legs up until the knees are well above the point of 
 the breast-bone, cross them at the tail and tie firmly. Run a 
 skewer through the body at the wings and thighs, press them 
 close to the body and tie across the back. 
 
 To Prepare Giblets. 
 
 It is well to repeat the caution: Do not use any from old 
 fowls nor from a young one unless thoroughly sound; a healthy 
 liver has a light color and uniform texture; cut away any por- 
 

 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 21 
 
 
 IMPORTANT. 
 
 ui»»i» > i)limillHHW IIMHII I I I I M I WU II 
 
 A 
 
 
 
 
 N using tne Recipes given in this 
 book requiring flour, for best re- 
 stilts, great care snould be taken 
 in tne selection of a particular 
 brand of flour. 
 
 For tnis reason ask your gro- 
 cer for, and insist upon having 
 tnat BEST OF ALL FLOURS, . . . 
 
 THE CELEB-RATED 
 
 SUPERLATIVE 
 
 
 MANUFACTURED ONLY IN 
 THE FAMOUS .... 
 
 maaebburn /BMils 
 
 OF 
 
 o 
 
 MINNEAPOLIS. 
 
 % % 
 
 * * 
 
 Washburn, Crosby Co., Propr's. 
 
22 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 tion that has been discolored by the gall bladder; remove that 
 without allowing a drop of its contents to fall on the meat, trim 
 off superfluous tissue from liver and heart, cut through the 
 thick muscle of the gizzard and peel it off without breaking 
 into the little gristmill inside; wash and let them lie in salted 
 water from live minutes to five hours. The strong smell of an 
 old fowl does not make the meat unwholesome, it may be 
 removed by this soaking in salt or soda water, but if the fowl 
 has been tainted by lying undressed or, worse yet, by careless 
 dressing, it is recommended to throw away these parts. Sim- 
 mer till tender in water or stock. Cook the neck with the 
 giblets, but save the wing tips and legs for the long slow cook- 
 ing of the stock pot. Use only the smooth legs of a fowl less 
 than a year old. Scald lightly and the skin and claw cases 
 will peel off like a glove; three pairs of chicken feet will make 
 a pint of jelly as fine and just as nutritious as the noted calves 
 feet jelly. 
 For further use see entrees, page 37. 
 
 Gravy for Roast Poultry. 
 
 (See Brown Sauce page 42.) Only in this case use the stock in 
 which giblets were cooked; mash the liver, chop heart, gizzard 
 and neck meat fine and mix with only half the sauce sending 
 in one-half plain for those who prefer it. 
 
 Broiled Chicken. 
 
 Chickens allowed the range of a large yard will run all the 
 fat off them. It is better to pen them into a small space for at 
 least a week before killing. It is hardly worth while to try to 
 broil them, when over three months old, though by steaming 
 them first they can be broiled up to five months old. Split 
 down the back, and spread open as fiat as possible, crush down 
 the breastbone and pin the wings and thighs closely to the 
 body, fastening the giblets under the wings. Wipe as dry as 
 possible, sprinkle with salt and pepper and rub well with soft 
 butter before laying on the broiler. Cook the inside next the 
 coals first for as long as possible without scorching, then turn 
 and cook on the skin side till a handsome brown. After each 
 side is brown, turn often till well done, it will take from twenty 
 to thirty minutes. Covering the broiler with a pan keeps in 
 both heat and steam and finishes the work in less time. Serve 
 on a hot platter and butter very well. Garnish with water- 
 cress, and serve thin, well-browned baking powder biscuit with 
 them. 
 
 Roast Chicken. 
 
 For general directions see roast turkey; for time see table 
 page 72. If the breast stands high and there is danger of 
 scorching it cover with a buttered paper. For stuffings see 
 page 23. 
 
 Truffled Capon. 
 
 For a capon weighing ten pounds use one can truffles (medium 
 size), one can mushrooms, one tablespoon chopped parsley, one- 
 half teaspoon powdered thyme, one scant tablespoon chopped 
 onion, one-quarter cup butter. Singe, draw, wash and wipe the 
 chicken as usual. Chop truffles and mushrooms very fine and 
 add the herbs to them. Put two tablespoons butter in the fry- 
 ing pan with the chopped onion and stir over the fire till a light 
 straw color, then add the mushrooms and truffles, one-half salt- 
 spoon pepper, one-half teaspoon salt. Cook gently for five 
 minutes, stirring constantly. Lift from fire and cool. When 
 cool slip the fingers under the skin of the chicken, beginning at 
 the neck and loosening it from the whole breast, being careful 
 not to break it. Spread a thin layer of the prepared stuffing 
 over the flesh and draw the skin back smooth. To the remainder 
 of the mixture add an equal bulk of stale bread crumbs and 
 pounded veal, moisten with the mushroom liquor and melted 
 butter and put it into the crop and body of the bird. Truss and 
 rub with salt and pepper as usual. Cover with slices of leaf 
 lard and roast about two and a half hours. Serve with 
 garnishing, see page 45. 
 
 Boiled Chicken. 
 
 Dress and clean according to general directions. Place in a 
 kettle of boiling water deep enough to cover, and with a fowl 
 weighing four pour <fe boil a pound of fat bacon. Skim care- 
 fully when it begi. +) cook and after the scums ceases to rise 
 set "it back to siir f gently for three hours or more, until 
 ready to fall apart, idd a handful of rice and a cup of milk to 
 make it look white ind keep it under water with an inverted 
 deep plate. Add m ire salt, if needed, about half an hour before 
 taking it up. Lay on a hot dish while the liquor is reduced to 
 -ather more than a pint, skim off all the fat, add chopped 
 
 -sley, celery and thyme and hard boiled eggs, chopped fine, 
 -1 , and send to table in a sauce bowl. 
 
 Steamed Chicken. 
 
 Wipe very dry after cleaning. Pub salt, pepper and plenty 
 of butter in the cavity of the body; fill it with large oysters 
 well seasoned with salt, pepper and celery salt. Tie the legs 
 and wings close to the body and lay in as small a dish as will 
 hold it, and set in a steamer to cook four hours. Meantime 
 cook a pint of chopped celery till it will rub through a puree 
 sieve. Make a pint of white sauce with the liquor of the 
 oysters, add the celery to it and pour it over the fowl on the 
 platter. Garnish with curly parsley and serve with baked 
 sweet potatoes and boiled rice. This is a delightful way to L 
 cook a turkey. 
 
 Chicken Pot-Pie. 
 
 Cut the chicken into nice pieces for serving, drop them into 
 just enough boiling water to cover and skim carefully at first. 
 Set back to simmer closely covered until tender, taking care 
 that it does not boil dry. While it is cooking cut off one 
 pound of light bread dough, work into it a large tablespoon of 
 butter, shape it into small dumplings and set them to rise; 
 wash and pare potatoes, cutting to about half the size of an 
 egg. Parboil for ten minutes in salted water and add them to 
 the chicken when nearly done. It is well to taste and add 
 more seasoning at the same time if it is needed. When the 
 potatoes begin to boil, lay on the dumplings, first adding a cup 
 of cold water or milk, to check the boiling and give the 
 dumplings a chance to rise. Cover very close and do not open 
 the lid till they are done, which will be in from twenty to 
 thirty minutes. Test them by taking out one and breaking 
 open to see if it is cooked through. If one likes the dumplings 
 dry and very light they may be cooked in a steamer quite 
 separate from the meat and potatoes. Make gravy as for 
 chicken-pie, adding more water or milk as may be needed. A 
 baking powder dumpling can be used instead of the raised 
 dough, and the sponge-balls given to go with soup on page 10 
 are excellent with pot-pie. Some recipes call for onion, carrot 
 and turnip, but such strong flavors are too much for the 
 chicken and are better suited to beef or mutton stews. A 
 tablespoon of rice or a half cup of tomatoes are the only veg- 
 etables recommended. 
 
 To Make a Poloe. 
 
 Take a pint of Rice, boil it in as much Water as will cover it; 
 When your Rice is half boiled, put in your Fowl, with a small 
 Onion, a blade or two of Mace, some whole Pepper, and some 
 Salt; when 'tis enough, put the Fowl in the Dish and pour the 
 Rice over it. — From the Compleat Housewife, published in 
 London in 1734. • 
 
 Chicken Pie. 
 
 Divide the chicken into pieces at the joints, boil until part 
 done, or about twenty minutes, then, take it out, fry two or 
 three slices of fat salt pork and put in the bottom, then place 
 the chicken on with one cup of water, two ounces of butter, 
 one teaspoon of salt, pepper to taste and cover the top with a 
 light crust, the same as for biscuit. Bake in an oven that is 
 hotter at the top than at the bottom, and when well risen and 
 brown cover with a paper or the crust will burn before the pie 
 is baked through. Remove fat from the water in which the 
 chicken was boiled, thicken with a little flour, season to taste, 
 add one cup good cream and when the pie is done pour this 
 gravy through the holes of the crust. 
 
 Chicken Turnovers. 
 
 Chicken turnovers are a pleasing variety of chicken pies. 
 Roll out trimmings of puff paste or any good pastry, and cut 
 in rather large rounds. Have ready some cooked chicken, 
 chopped fine and highly seasoned; a little finely minced ham is 
 an improvement. Moisten with its own gravy if you have it, 
 if not, cream will answer. Lay a tablespoon of the mixture 
 on one-half the paste, fold the other half over it, press the 
 wetted edges closely together and bake in a quick oven or fry 
 in hot fat, according to convenience. When fried these are 
 called Rissoles. 
 
 Chicken and Oyster Pie. 
 
 Cold boiled chicken and fifty good-sized oysters with a small 
 slice of ham are required for this. Make one quart of good 
 white sauce, using the strained oyster juice as part of the 
 liquid. Line a deep pie dish with pastry, building up the edges 
 with two layers. Cut the chicken in even pieces and lay in the 
 dish alternately with the oysters and ham cut in dice. Pour 
 the sauce over all and make a cover half an inch thick of the 
 pastry, making a hole in the middle for steam to escape and 
 pinching the edges well together. Bake a leaf or any fancy 
 shape, to cover the hole with when done. Bake the pie half 
 an hour and serve hot. "Very good. — From "The Epicure." 
 
WaSHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 23 
 
 Chicken Fricassee. 
 
 White. Prepare the chicken by general directions (page 20), 
 brown in butter; it should be done over a quick fire but not 
 allowed to take much color; cover with boiling water and sim 
 : a year old chicken should not need more than 
 forty minutes; reduce the slock to one pint and use it, to make 
 a sauce with one tablespoon of butter and two of Mom-. Sea- 
 
 Bon with one-half teasp 1 celery salt, one teaspoon lemon 
 
 juice, salt and pepper as needed. Add one cup hot cream and 
 pour the sauce slowly over one well-beaten egg; stir well and 
 put on a hot platter; arrange the pieces of chicken in some- 
 thing like the order in which they grow, garnish with toast 
 points and two sprays of parsley laid' in the center of the dish. 
 
 Egyptian Chicken. 
 
 Select a well-fattened hen a year old or even more. Clean and 
 truss as usual, tying the legs and wings very close to the body. 
 Rub all over inside and out with salt, pepper and soft butter. 
 Tick over and wash one and one-fourth cups rice, season it 
 with one teaspoon salt, one-half saltspoon pepper, one tea- 
 spoon curry powder. Put three tablespoons rice inside the 
 fowl and the remainder around it in a dish just large enough 
 to hold all nicely. Set it all into a steamer with a close-fitting 
 cover and cook for at least four hours. The giblets may be 
 scalded and cooked separately for an hour and then laid inside 
 the fowl with the rice. If the broth in which they are cooked 
 is not too strong, pour it over the rice in the dish. Serve with 
 summer squash and cucumbers. — Mrs, F, A, Crosby, Milwau- 
 kee, Wis. 
 
 Fried Chicken. 
 
 Chickens will do for frying up to six months old if they are 
 plump and in good condition. Clean, singe and wipe with a 
 wet cloth. Cut them in quarters, and season with salt and 
 pepper, roll them in Hour and fry in hot fat from salt pork until 
 brown on both sides. Cover closely and set back to cook 
 slowly till done, about twenty minutes more; dissolve the glaze 
 with two or three tablespoons water and pour over the chicken. 
 Serve with corn pone if you can get sweet, soft corn meal and 
 have an open fire; if not, with some other form of corn-bread. 
 
 Chicken a la Marengo. 
 
 Cut a large chicken in small joints, dry it carefully and fry 
 to a good brown in olive oil. Place in a clean sautoir with six 
 mushrooms peeled and sliced, one gill of stewed tomato, one 
 small onion or six chives, and a few truffles if you have them, 
 one gill of brown sauce. Cover closely and simmer half an 
 hour, adding more water if it boils away too much. Taste to 
 see if more seasoning is needed. Serve on a chafing dish, 
 garnishing with croutons of puff paste and poached eggs. — 
 Manual of South Kensington Cooking School. 
 
 Chicken and Corn Pudding. 
 
 Clean and cut one chicken in small pieces, simmer in a closely 
 covered kettle till it begins to grow tender. Then take out and 
 lay in a baking dish, seasoning well with salt and pepper. Have 
 ready one quart green corn cut fine, three eggs well beaten and 
 one pint sweet milk, salt and pepper to taste. About one tea- 
 spoon of salt, one-half saltspoon pepper and a dust of cayenne. 
 Pour this mixture over the chicken, dredge thickly with Hour 
 (or very fine dry breadcrumbs), lay on bits of butter and bake 
 in a moderately hot oven until set and a delicate brown. Make 
 a good gravy with the water in! which the chicken was cooked, 
 and serve with the pudding. 
 
 Chicken Pudding, No. 2. 
 
 Make a batter with a pound of flour, one teaspoon salt, one 
 quart milk and six eggs beaten light. Pour over chicken as 
 above. This should be baked in a very gentle heat, and served 
 as soon as done, with a gravy as before. 
 
 Deviled Fowl. 
 
 Cut the thighs and wings from two underdone fowls, either 
 roast or boiled. Score them closely about one-quarter inch 
 deep, and rub in a paste made with two teaspoons mixed 
 mustard, one teaspoon good salad oil, one teaspoon salt, one- 
 half saltspoon cayenne, lay them aside to season while the rest 
 of the meat is chopped fine and stirred into a pint of Bechamel 
 or any good sauce. 
 
 Put a good tablespoon of butter in the sautoir and when it 
 browns add one teaspoon each vinegar, Worcestershire sauce 
 and mustard. Broil the legs and wings till a handsome brown, 
 and roll each one in the butter mixture as it is taken from the 
 gridiron. Put the mince in the center of a hot platter, arrange 
 the grilled bones around it and serve piping hot. 
 
 Poultry Stuffing. 
 
 No, 1. For an eight-pound turkey take one quart stale bread 
 crumbs, they should be of uniform size butv need nor. be sifted; 
 moisten with three-quarters of a cup butter, melt m well 
 
 With pepper and salt, use fine herbs if desired, but thl 
 chicken and turkey is too delicate, to be covered with l 
 soiling. 
 
 If the fowl is very large and a good deal of stuffing is liked, 
 the body may be filled with thin Slices of bread well butt 
 sprinkled with seasoning and dipped lightly in stock. Do not 
 crowd either crop or body or the stuffing will be heavy. 
 
 No. 2. Soak four ounces dried bread in cold water until soft, 
 press out all the water, add four ounces fine sausage meat, one 
 tablespoon each of parsley and of onion chopped and par- 
 boiled, two ounces of butter, one teaspoon salt, one-half tea- 
 spoon pepper, a dash of nutmeg and two well-beaten eggs. If 
 the sausage meat is quite fat the butter may be omitted, or 
 chopped salt pork may be substituted with rather more season- 
 ing. If one objects to pork in any form, use a full cup of butter 
 and an extra cup of coarse crumbs. 
 
 A good and rich variation is as follows: Chop the liver with 
 one small onion and brown lightly in a very little butter; mix 
 them with one pound of sausage meat and three dozen chest- 
 nuts boiled and blanched. 
 
 No. 3 stuffing with chestnuts. Remove the sinews from one- 
 half pound raw lean veal and the strings from the same weight 
 of leaf lard; chop them separately till very fine, then pound vig- 
 orously till well blended; moisten with one-half pint broth, add 
 one teaspoon salt, one saltspoon pepper, four dozen chestnuts, 
 blanched and boiled; fill the turkey, breast and body. One cup 
 of the cooked chestnut crumbs may be reserved, mashed, 
 sifted and used to thicken the gravy; this should be lightly 
 browned, not to cover the chestnut flavor. 
 
 No. 4. For roast chicken of three or four pounds take one 
 cup coarse cracker crumbs, moisten with butter, the amount 
 varies with the kind of cracker, from one-fourth to one-third 
 cup, season well with salt, pepper and thyme. 
 
 Stuffing for Ducks. 
 
 One-half pound onions, minced, blanched and drained, add 
 three tablespoons grated bread crumbs, one teaspoon powdered 
 sage, the liver of the duck parboiled and minced, pepper, salt 
 and cayenne to taste. This quantity is sufficient for one 
 medium size duck. 
 
 No. 2 for duckling. Two ounces bread crumbs, two ounces 
 butter, a little chopped parsley, two leaves sage, a dust of grated 
 lemon peel, three shallots chopped, with salt and pepper to taste. 
 
 No. 3 celery stuffing. One cup coarsely chopped celery, one- 
 half cup onion, one heaping cap dried bread. Remove ail crust 
 from the bread and fry them in enough butter to crisp them 
 well, mix all together and add salt, pepper and cayenne to taste. 
 
 Roast Turkey. 
 
 Get one which is plump and young. Clean as usual (see 
 page 20); do not omit drawing the tendons in the leg and 
 removing the lungs and kidneys; clean and truss as usual (see 
 page 20). Place on a rack in the dripping pan; brush well with 
 soft butter and dredge with flour. Set in a hot oven and when 
 well browned reduce the heat; lay it on the side, turn and 
 brown the other and finally lay it on the back to brown the 
 breast, this ensures an even color. Baste with butter till nicely 
 browned, then add a pint of water and renew it as needed. 
 Dredge with flour at every alternate basting. If the cook can- 
 not be trusted to baste often a hen turkey should be chosen, 
 but the cock has higher flavor and is better for boning, boiling 
 and braising. Allow two hours for an eight pound turkey; 
 this is a good size for a family of six. It gives good cuts for 
 the first day, allows remnants for some made dish and still 
 enough trimmings for a soup. Test by running a long pin 
 through the second joint between the leg and body. For gravy 
 (see page 22). If the giblets are not liked in gravy use them for 
 forcemeat balls (see page 38). or cook, chop and mix them with 
 the stuffing— either No. 1 or No. 2. (See time table, page 72.) 
 
 Many like the flavor of both turkey and chicken better if 
 roasted without stuffing; in this case season the inside of the 
 bird with salt and pepper, baste freely and allow less time for 
 roasting, from one-half to one hour, according to the size. It 
 can be tested by running a long pin through the thigh 
 between the leg and the body. An older fowl takes longer and 
 is much better braised. 
 
 Braised Poultry. 
 
 Make ready as for roasting; brown lightly in a frying p' 
 quick oven, put in braising pan (see page 11), with onior 
 sweet herbs or vegetables, or rice, hominy or macaroni, 
 ferred. (Macaroni must be first parboiledfor ten minut 
 
24 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 Boned Turkey. 
 
 Choose a young hen that has been dry picked, with skin 
 unbroken; if killed the day before it should have been washed 
 clean, wrapped in a damp cloth and hung in a cool place. The 
 work can be done more easily if the bird is not drawn and there 
 can be no objection if it has had no food for twenty-four 
 hours before it is killed. Separate legs and wings at the 
 first joint and cut off neck inside the skin, close to the 
 body. Make a clean cut to the bone down the back from 
 neck to the rump; then, holding the edge of the knife to 
 the bone, scrape away all the meat on both sides, mak- 
 ing a cut across the "pope's" nose, taking it off whole. 
 Great care must be used not to break through the skin on the 
 breast bone. The thigh and wing bones may be disjointed and 
 taken off separately, though a professional cook takes pride in 
 removing the carcass entire; turn the flesh back from the bone 
 while working, like pulling off a glove wrong side out; take the 
 wing and leg on one side before touching the other; when the 
 ridge of the breastbone is reached it is better to cut off a thin 
 layer of cartilage with the skin than to run any risk of breaking 
 through. When the boning is finished lay the bird open on the 
 damp cloth and bring each part to proper position, take off the 
 minion fillets and some small slices from the breast where the 
 meat is thick and lay them where it is thinner so that the meat 
 will be nearly of uniform thickness. Put one or two small 
 fillets from the thighs in the breast and replace them with 
 breast meat; do the same with the wings. Make a 
 layer of force meat not more than one inch thick; place on 
 this a layer of tongue, pork and veal or pork tenderloin; dot it 
 with truffles cut in matches, cover with another layer of force 
 meat, put a layer of very thin slices of fat pork on top, bring 
 up the sides carefully, so as not to disarrange the stuffing, and 
 sew the back from end to end, roll firmly in cloth and fasten 
 both ends tightly; put in a braising-pan, as near the size of the 
 bird as may be, two sliced onions and carrots, the veal and 
 pork trimmings, then the turkey, parsley, a dozen pepper-corns 
 three stalks of celery, a blade of mace and a clove; pack the 
 crushed bones of the turkey around and cover with thin white 
 stock. Bring to a boil quickly, then simmer three to four 
 hours; test with a long steel pin, cool in the liquor; take off 
 the cloth and roll it again closely, tieing securely 
 and put to press under a heavy weight. Reduce the stock 
 to three pints, strain, cool, remove the fat and reheat; add two- 
 thirds package gelatine which has been soaked in cold water 
 until soft. Taste for seasoning and strain one-half pint into a 
 mold and the remainder into two pans, color one with one tea- 
 spoon and the other with two of caramel. Use the jelly when 
 stiff to garnish the turkey, with peas, canned mushrooms and 
 fancy cut vegetables. Garnish the turkey with celery tips and 
 groups of force meat balls. If the giblets are not liked in the 
 gravy those may be used for the balls, make very fine, mix 
 with an equal bulk of bread crumbs, allow one teaspoon of 
 butter to each cup of the mixture, season highly, moisten 
 with egg yolk, make in balls the size of a hickory nut and 
 brown in hot butter. 
 
 Jelly For Boned Turkey. 
 
 Strain the broth in which it was cooked and skim off every 
 speck of grease. Let boil for five minutes, then pour it over 
 one ounce of well soaked gelatine. Crack into another bowl 
 the whites and shells of two eggs, juice of one-half a lemon, one 
 gill of Madeira wine and whisk them all well together. Add 
 the soup very slowly stirring fast with a wire whip. Place 
 over a moderate fire and let come gently to the boil. Simmer a 
 few minutes until there is a thick scum like leather. Hold 
 this back with a skimming spoon while the clear soup is poured 
 into a flannel bag to filter. Set to cool over night and it will be 
 fit for use. 
 
 Roast Goose. 
 
 Clean and wash thoroughly, (see page 20), rinse well in clear 
 water, wipe dry inside and out. Chop an onion fine, blanch 
 and drain, fry with a little butter, mix it with well seasoned 
 mashed potatoes, adding sage if liked, truss and roast two 
 hours for a medium size, covering the breast with a buttered 
 paper for the first hour. Soak the giblets in salted water, scald 
 cook gently until tender in a little water, chop and add to the 
 gravy. For this the fat should all be poured from the dripping 
 pan and fresh fat added, butter, pork fat or dripping, according 
 to taste; brown two level tablespoons flour in it, blend with one 
 pint strong stock. Pour this upon a hot platter, lay on the 
 goose and garnish with apples cooked as follows: Take small 
 round, sour apples, pare smoothly and brown in butter and 
 sugar, one tablespoon of each will do for six apples. Stew in 
 broth enough to barely cover and take out as soon as tender 
 to » the broth to a glaze and roll the apples in it. ' I 
 
 "Siey, eel 
 \ anc. 
 
 Truffled Turkey. 
 
 The reputation of this dish far exceeds its real merits, but as 
 it is one of the standards the best method of preparation is 
 herewith given: 
 
 Choose a young, plump but not too fat turkey. Dry-pick, 
 singe and draw as quickly as possible after killing. If care- 
 fully done there will be no need of washing, and in any case it 
 should only be sponged with a damp cloth. Dust inside and 
 out lightly with pepper and hang up to cool. 
 
 Meantime brush and clean one and one-half pounds fresh 
 truffles, cut the best of them into large dice or balls and all 
 the broken bits and trimmings are to be pounded into a smooth 
 paste, with an equal bulk of fat bacon. When the forcemeat 
 is quite smooth, mix the dice with it and season the whole with 
 salt and pepper. There must be enough to fill the body of the 
 bird. Hang it for four, five or six days enclosed in a stout sack 
 of thick brown paper until the sense of smell testifies that the 
 j perfume of the truffles has penetrated the flesh. On the day 
 that it is to be cooked fill the crop with a good veal forcemeat, 
 truss it firmly, lay slices of fat bacon over the breast and 
 buttered paper over that. Roast about two and one-half hours, 
 basting often. Serve with its own gravy only, to which may 
 ' be added a few finely-minced truffles if liked. 
 
 Forcemeat For Boned Turkey. 
 
 Chop fine separately two pounds of white lean veal and the 
 same amount of fresh fat pork, pound vigorously in a mortar, 
 add seasoning to taste and four egg yolks one at a time, beat- 
 ing and pounding continually. Take a half pound each of fat 
 pork, red beef tongue or ham and lean of veal or pork tender- 
 loin; cut each into slips as long as may be and one-quarter inch 
 square. Use as directed. 
 
 Roast Ducks. 
 
 To really enjoy domestic duck they should be kept in a small 
 pen for a day or two and fed on barley meal or cracked wheat, 
 with plenty of clean fresh water to cleanse them before they 
 are dressed. As a general rule two small young ducks make a 
 better dish than a large drake, the flesh of which is hard and 
 dry and best adapted for a stew, salmi or braise. Clean and 
 truss according to general directions, except that the feet are 
 generally scalded, skinned and twisted across the back, while 
 the pinions and long neck are entirely removed. Stuff and 
 skewer the wings close to the side to make the breast as plump 
 as possible. Roast from thirty to forty-five minutes, basting 
 often and dredging with flour if it is wished to have a frothy 
 appearance. Serve with a good brown gravy and with apple 
 sauce in a side dish. 
 
 Stewed Ducks. (Irish.) 
 
 Singe, draw and cut into eight pieces each, two spring ducks. 
 Season with pepper and salt and fry to a light brown on both 
 sides in butter. Add a sliced onion and four ounces raw, lean 
 ham cut in dice. As soon as these have browned a little dredge 
 with one and one-half ounces of flour and fry again till the 
 flour is brown, then add one and one-half pints beef broth, a 
 gill of port wine, a bunch of parsley and sweet herbs to taste, 
 cover closely and cook three-quarters of an hour. Remove the 
 herbs, skim off all the fat and serve in a potato border. 
 
 Salmi of Duck. (English.) 
 
 Stew the giblets of one or more ducks in veal gravy till they 
 are tender, seasoning them highly with cayenne, shallots, pepper 
 and salt. Cut the roast duck into large dice and lay in the 
 stewpan with the gravy, simmer till hot through, then squeeze 
 a bitter orange into the gravy, strain it over the pieces of duck 
 neatly arranged on bread croutons and send to table smoking 
 hot. 
 
 Braised Duck. 
 
 See Braised fowl page 23, using green peas instead of other 
 vegetables. Season with salt and pepper and serve with the 
 peas under the duck and the gravy poured over. 
 
 Stuffed or Boned Duck. 
 
 Bone according to general directions, being careful not to 
 break the skin. Fill with a forcemeat made from one-half 
 pound veal, one-fourth pound suet, parsley, chives and plenty of 
 mushrooms. Add salt and pepper to taste and make into a paste 
 with two well-beaten eggs and sufficient water. Fill the inside 
 of the duck, cook in a braising-pan and serve with stewed 
 chestnuts prepared with the gravy from the bones. 
 
WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 25 
 
 To Stew Pigeons with Asparagus. 
 Draw your Pigeons, ami wrap up a little shred Parsley, with & 
 :ry few Blades of Thyme, some Salt and Pepper in a piece of 
 utter, put some in the Belly and some in the Neck, and tie up 
 ie Vent and the Neck and halt' roast them; then have Some 
 rong Broth and Gravy, put them together in a stew-pan; stew 
 ie Pigeons till they are full enough; then have Tops of 
 .sparagus boiled tender and put them in and let them have a 
 Palm or two in theGravy and dish it up.— From the "Compleat 
 Tousetoif< "published in London in 1734. 
 
 Guinea Fowls. 
 
 These excellent birds are a sort of connecting link between 
 wild birds and the ordinary barn-yard fowl. Unless young 
 they are apt to be tough, but even an old guinea can be made 
 eatable by the help of a braising pan and they are always high- 
 llavored and savory. The dark color of the meat makes them 
 an acceptable substitute for game during the spring and sum- 
 mer when true game birds ought to be sacred from the greed of 
 man. Clean, stuff and roast like chicken (p 20-22), and serve 
 with barberry or wild plum jelly. 
 
 Larded Guinea Fowls. 
 
 Choose very plump birds and after cleaning and trussing, 
 dip the breast in boiling water for about a minute to stretch the 
 skin. With a No. 10 larding needle, till the breast with rows of 
 fine short lardoous of salt pork or bacon. Roast and serve as 
 usual. 
 
 Pea Fowl. 
 
 Pea fowl are sometimes served, but the flesh is coarse and ill- 
 eolored and there is little to recommend it. 
 
 Broiled Squab. 
 
 The birds should be full-grown but not yet out of the nest, 
 or not more than a day or two. Singe, draw, split down the 
 back. Crack the large bones, flatten with a heavy cleaver. 
 Season with salt and pepper and broil slowly. Serve on dry 
 toast with hot maitre d' hotel butter poured over. Garnish 
 with water cress. 
 
 Salmi of Duck. (American.) 
 
 Three small wild ducks (teal, widgeon or wood-duck) roasted .j 
 and cut in even pieces, free from bones, skin and gristle. Break 
 all the bones and put them with other trimmings in a stewpan j 
 with two glasses sherry, one quart Spanish sauce, one pint beef 
 stock, a sprig of thyme, a bay leaf, two cloves, six peppercorns, j 
 parsley and one onion sliced. Cover closely and boil gently for ! 
 one hour; strain and reduce to a smooth consistency. Dish the 
 duck on a large thick slice of fried bread, add the juice of a 
 lemon and two ounces butter to the gravy and pour it over. 
 
 Roast Pigeons. 
 
 Prepare exactly according to the directions for roast chicken, 
 but unless they are surely young and fat they are much better 
 to be steamed for thirty to forty minutes before putting them 
 into the oven. Use a generous measure of butter as the meat 
 is rather dry. 
 
 GAME. 
 
 Under this head is included all wild animals and wild fowl 
 used for food. In cooking either apply the same general rules 
 already given for meats and poultry, remembering that all 
 white meated game should be cooked well done; dark meated 
 game rare, and both must be sent to the table very hot, with 
 hot plates. Wild meat contains a much greater percentage of 
 phosphates, and much more lean than fat, while the lean is of 
 much greater density than the flesh of domesticated animals. 
 It follows that they are a strong food and. if v ->.'i digested, ' 
 very nutritious. 
 
 When game is to be kept many days it should be drawn, the I 
 inside rubbed with salt and pepper, and it does no harm to put 
 some lumps of charcoal in the cavity. If there is any objection 
 to washing, it must be very carefully drawn and then wiped 
 with a damp cloth until perfectly clean Neither salt nor 
 pepper should touch the outside of the meat until after it is 
 cooked. 
 
 Simplicity is the highest perfection of cooking, especially of 
 .game, and all seasoning, sauces and accompaniments should 
 be subordinate to the flavor of the meat. 
 
 Roast Venison, 
 
 Roast venison is best to be thoroughly larded, using half a 
 pound of pork to a leg or saddle weighii n pounds. 
 
 Cut tho flanks from a saddle, and trim the haunch to good 
 shape. Roast according to general directions, basting at the 
 end of the first live minutes and every fifteen minutes alter 
 It is very nice to use claret instead of the dripping in the pan. 
 An hour and a quarter Will cook it very rare; for most people 
 an hour and three-quarters will be none too much. Make a 
 good gravy from the drippings in the pan, adding stock 
 from the bits trimmed away before roasting. Currant jelly is 
 usually served with it, but those who have once tried barberry 
 or wild plum jelly will never be contented with anything else. 
 
 Venison Steaks. 
 
 Venison steaks are prepared and served like beef steak 
 ting them only about three-quarters of an inch thick, however, 
 instead of an inch and one-half. 
 
 Slices of cold rare roast venison are extremely nice when 
 reheated in a brown or curry sauce. 
 
 Deviled Venison. 
 
 Cut thick slices from rare-roasted venison, make slanting 
 incisions and till them with mixed mustard and salad oil. 
 Brush the slices with melted butter and dredge them with 
 flour. Broil over clear coals till a good brown and serve with 
 butter. 
 
 Venison Cutlets. 
 
 Treat like cutlets of mutton and serve with only salt, pepper 
 and butter, or they may be served with an olive sauce. 
 
 Venison Hash. 
 
 This is particularly nice for lunch. Chop the meat from a 
 cold roast quite coarsely. Season with salt, pepper and cayenne 
 and set aside till the gravy is hot. If there is not enough gravy 
 left make a brown sauce for it, using stock from the bones and 
 trimmings of the roast. Add the meat only one minute before 
 serving. Arrange on hot buttered toast, garnish with quarters 
 of lemon and serve with green grape marmalade. (Verjua). 
 
 Fillets of Venison. 
 
 Have as many small steaks as there are to be covers. Trim and 
 flatten into good shape. Lard one side of each steak with tiny 
 strips of pork and lay them in an earthen dish with salt, pepper, 
 an onion, a minced carrot, two bay leaves, two sprigs thyme, one- 
 half a gill of salad oil, a gill of vinegar. Let them steep in 
 this mixture for six hours, turning often. Twenty minutes 
 before serving drain and wipe them. Fry them to a handsome 
 brown in a little very hot salt pork fat. It must be done 
 quickly or they will become hard and tough. Arrange in a 
 circle on a hot dish, the larded side uppermost alternately with 
 heart-shaped croutons of puff paste. Serve with a brown gravy 
 made from the marinate. 
 
 Venison Collops. 
 
 Have a venison steak cut one inch thick; divide it into por- 
 tions about two inches square. Season with salt. Lay it in a 
 chafing-dish in which two tablespoons of butter are boiling. 
 Brown each side as quickly as possible; then add a dust of 
 cayenne, two tablespoons Port wine, one tablespoon currant 
 jelly. Epicures would say "Serve at once." Most people pre- 
 fer to let it simmer till the inside shows only pink w r hen cut. 
 
 Venison Pasty. 
 
 Use for this the neck, breast, flank and other portions that 
 are not suitable for roasting. Wash with vinegar, rub with 
 sugar and hang in a cool airy place as long as possible. 
 Examine every day and wipe night and morning with a dry 
 cloth. When it is to be used sponge with lukewarm water and 
 dry with a cloth. Bone it and cut the meat free from skin 
 into pieces two inches square. Parboil till the meat begins to 
 be tender, then season well and lay in a baking dish of which 
 the> sides have been lined with good pastry. Arrange the 
 pieces of fat and lean together, adding more seasoning if 
 needed and dot well with bits of butter and enough stock to 
 cover the bottom of the dish well. Cover with a thick crust and 
 bake till the crust is thoroughly clone. 
 
 While it is being baked put all the bones and trimmings in 
 a covered stewpan with a strip of mace, pepper, salt ami cold 
 water to cover the pieces. Simmer till all the goodness is out 
 of the bones and the water reduced one-half. Strain, cool and 
 remove the fat. When the pie is done heat up the gravy with 
 lemon juice and enough port wine to flavor well. Put a fun- 
 nel through the hole in the crust and pour the gravy in. Good 
 either hot or cold. 
 
26 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 Antelope. 
 
 Antelope meat is prepared like venison and is hardly to be 
 distinguished from it except by its stronger llavor. 
 
 Bear. 
 
 The haunch and saddle of young bear is very good roasted, 
 tasting almost like pork, but'old bear meat is extremely hard 
 and tough and is only palatable in a highly seasoned ragout. 
 
 Rabbits or Hares. 
 
 Rabbits and hares are only fit to use when young, and their 
 age may be known by the ears and paws, which should be soft, 
 the edges of the ears smooth and the paws not worn. They 
 are best in the fall and early winter when fat from an abund- 
 ance of their favorite food. They should be drawn as soon as 
 possible after killing, but should not be skinned until ready to 
 use. AVash and soak them for a little while in salted water. 
 
 Roast Hare. 
 
 Parboil the heart and liver, chop them fine with an equal 
 bulk of fat salt pork; make a moist stuffing as for chicken, 
 using the water in which giblets were boiled and working in the 
 minced meat. Stuff the body with this and sew it up. The 
 English fashion is to leave the head on, but American taste 
 generally prefers it removed. Truss the forelegs back and the 
 hind legs forward. Fasten thin slices of fat bacon over the 
 shoulders and back and put it to roast in a very hot oven at 
 first. Baste faithfully with butter and water until the fat flows 
 freely from the the bacon. When half done dredge with flour 
 and baste with butter once more. When done enough dress 
 on a hot dish with a little gravy poured over and garnish with 
 slices of lemon. Serve fried bacon with it on a separate dish. 
 
 If the rabbit is very plump and young, it is nice to roast it 
 without stuffing, serving force meat balls on the platter with it. 
 It is also good with a chestnut stuffing made as for turkey. 
 
 Broiled Rabbit. 
 
 Skin and lay in salt and water for a time to sweeten. Pre- 
 pare for the broil like chicken and cook over charcoal embers 
 till done. Season with salt and pepper just before it is fin- 
 ished and pour over melted butter mixed with two tablespoons 
 vinegar and one of made mustard before sending to the table. 
 Serve with a ravigote sauce. 
 
 Rabbit Stew or Fricassee. 
 
 See directions for fricasseed chicken, adding rather more sea- 
 soning and a glass of any good red wine if liked. 
 
 Squirrels. 
 
 The large grey and fox squirrels are the best for eating, and 
 may be cooked in any way suitable for rabbits, but they are in 
 greatest request for Brunswick gtew- 
 
 2 large squirrels, 
 
 1 pint lima or butter-beans, 
 6 ears corn, 
 
 i teaspoon pepper, 
 i saltspoon cayenne, 
 
 2 teaspoons white pepper, 
 
 1 quart tomatoes, 
 
 6 potatoes, 
 
 i pound fat salt pork, 
 
 -i pound butter, 
 
 1 tablespoon salt, 
 
 1 onion, ' 
 
 1 gallon AVater. 
 
 Boil together salt and water, add the onion, herbs, corn cut 
 from the cob, diced pork, pepper and let come to a boil, cut the 
 squirrels in joints and wash them clean, add to the stew as 
 soon as it boils. Cut the potatoes in slices and parboil them, 
 put them into the stew with the tomatoes and sugar about an 
 hour before it is done. Ten minutes before taking from 
 the fire add the butter cut in bits and rolled in flour, taste to 
 adjust the seasoning and serve in soup plates. 
 
 Squirrel Pot-Pie. 
 
 Four squirrels, skinned and cleaned and cut in neat pieces. 
 Flour them and fry brown in a little good dripping. Add one 
 quart of boiling water, one large onion minced, quarter of a 
 lemon sliced very thin, a teaspoon of salt, half a one of pepper, 
 a small glass of sherry. Fry the minced onion brown in a 
 spoon of butter and add to the water, etc. Cover all closely 
 and stew for one hour. Make a delicate biscuit crust, and cut 
 in rounds, laying them on top of the squirrel. Let them boil, 
 covered closely, for fifteen minutes. Pile the squirrel in the 
 centre of a platter, arrange the dumplings around it, thicken 
 the gravy with a spoonful of browned Hour and pour over it, 
 and serve hot. 
 
 'Possum, 'Coon, etc. 
 
 ' J .Opossum, raccoons and other small animals are good if you 
 _^^ so, and are cooked like rabbits. 
 
 -4 
 
 Pigeon or Game Pasties. 
 
 Lincolnshire and Oxfordshire. Bake these pasties, in meat- 
 pie moulds which open and allow the form to be taken 
 out. Make a crust of one pound of Hour, half a pound of 
 butter, half a pint of water, the yolks of two eggs and a tea- 
 spoon of salt. AVork all this into a firm paste and line the 
 buttered mould, reserving part for the cover. For a two quart 
 pie remove the large bones from four pigeons, season the 
 inside of each one well with a mixture made of one large tea- 
 spoon of salt, half a one each of pepper, clove and mace. 
 Spread on each a layer of good force meat and lay in the 
 mould, filling in with more force meat and bits of veal and 
 ham. AVet the edges and pinch together, ornamenting the top 
 with a cluster of pastry leaves placed over the hole made in the 
 centre of the crust. Put in a moderate oven, after brushing it 
 over with yolk of egg and bake four hours. In the meantime 
 boil the bones and trimmings in one quart of water till reduced 
 to half a pint, season it highly and pour it into the pie 
 through the hole in the top. These pies are eaten cold, and 
 of ten truffles or mushrooms are added. Small ones are made 
 with one pigeon and forcemeat. Game of any sort can be 
 used, enormous pies being often served. 
 
 AVild Turkey. 
 
 AVild turkey is without doubt the most delicious of all the 
 large game birds and should be treated almost exactly like the 
 domestic turkey; stuffing with chestnuts or a veal force meat, 
 and roasting till tender. 
 
 Wild Goose. 
 
 AVild goose is selected and cooked like wild duck, remember- 
 ing that it will bear much higher seasoning in both meat and 
 sauce. 
 
 Ducks. 
 
 The list is almost endless, but they will all bear substantially 
 the same treatment. A few epicures may like (or think they 
 like) their canvas-back kept until upon the point of falling to 
 pieces and served barely warmed through. But the majority of 
 those who enjoy game like it hung and cooked upon the same 
 principles that govern poultry and other meats. Dark meat of 
 any kind should always be cooked rare, and red juice, not blood, 
 should follow every cut with the knife. The best authorities 
 agree that game birds should be roasted plain, that is, without 
 stuffing, but there is no reason why any of the force meats 
 given for poultry should not be used for wild duck, grouse, 
 prairie chickens, etc., if one prefers them so cooked. The fol- 
 lowing directions, however, will suppose that no stuffing is to 
 be used except when specified. 
 
 Canvas-back, Red-head and Mallard 
 
 Should be carefully picked, singed, drawn and wiped with a 
 wet cloth, trussed with the neck twisted around to close the 
 opening in the breast, and the rump turned clown to close the 
 opening through which it was drawn. Season with salt and 
 roast rare from eighteen to twenty-five minutes. Place them 
 on a hot dish and put a tablespoon of cold water inside to pre- 
 vent the coagulation of the juice. Send a glass of currant jelly 
 or wild plum jelly to table with it, or serve with essence of 
 celery. 
 
 Red-head, Teal or AA r idgeon Broiled. 
 
 After cleaning, split down the back and flatten a little with a 
 heavy cleaver. Pare off the neck, pinions and ends of the legs, 
 baste well with salad oil and broil rare over a quick fire. Dish 
 on dry toast. Melt two tablespoons of maitre d'hotel butter 
 with a little brown gravy, pour it over the ducks and serve with 
 any sharply acid jelly, or orange, or olive sauce. 
 
 Teal. 
 
 Teal when roasted sometimes has a plain, dry stufling as for 
 chicken. Sometimes it is filled with a choppedonion and celery 
 stuffing. Serve with slices of fried hominy and watercress or 
 with green grape jelly. 
 
 Fillets of Widgeon. 
 
 Roast quick and rare four widgeons; slip off the fillets with 
 a sharp knife, lay them on pieces of buttered toast and place 
 in a dish sprinkled with parmesan cheese; place two fillets of 
 anchovy on each fillet of duck, sprinkled with more cheese, 
 grated bread crumbs, chopped parsley and melted butter. 
 Bake in a very hot oven about two minutes. Squeeze the 
 juice of two lemons over and serve hot. 
 
 Salmi of Wild Duck or Grouse. 
 
 See page 24, adding sherry or Burgundy to finish. 
 
WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW Cook BOOK. 
 
 27 
 
 Grouse. 
 
 Pluck with care not to tear the skin, Draw and wipe, but 
 
 do not wash. Cut off the h'ead and truss like fowls. They 
 
 much improved by larding, but if that is not convenient 
 
 fasten thin slices of salt pork all over the breast and thighs. 
 
 Haste every live, minutes. About ten minutes before taking 
 up lay a thick slice of toast under each and serve on this. 
 Fry coarse bread crumbs to a handsome brown in butter and 
 strewthem on the platter or over the bird, send either bread 
 • or brown gravy to table with them. The Scotch fashion 
 is to put three tablespoons of butter into each bird instead of 
 larding it. Parboil the liver and pound it to a paste with but- 
 ter, salt and cayenne and use this to spread on the toast on 
 which the birds are to be served. 
 
 Potted Grouse. 
 
 Prepare as if for roasting: season rather highly and put 
 
 Elenty of butter inside, pack them in a deep pie dish and dot 
 i r on top. Pour over a small glass of claret for each pair 
 of birds and tie two or three folds of buttered paper over. 
 Bake in a moderate oven one hour. Pack them by twos in 
 small pots, cover with clarified butter and set away to keep till 
 wanted. They will keep for three or four weeks andare excel- 
 lent for breakfast or lunch. 
 
 Fillets of Grouse, 
 
 if the birds are badly shot to pieces or much disfigured in 
 dressing, it is sometimes better to serve them filleted. After 
 they have been removed separate the large from the small lillet. 
 Season them with salt and pepper and dip them in a mixture of 
 one tablespoon chopped parsley, one tablespoon lemon juice 
 and one-half cup melted butter. Let the butter cool on them, 
 then dip in a beaten egg, then in bread crumbs and fry in deep 
 hot fat. Six minutes is enough for the large, four minutes for 
 the small fillets. Drain on brown paper while arranging a 
 mound of vegetables a la jardiniere in the center of a hot 
 dish. Rest the fillets against the mound and serve with Bech- 
 amel sauce poured around. 
 
 Smothered Grouse. 
 
 Pick, singe, void and sponge as usual. Split in halves as 
 for broiling; rub well with salt and chili and baste with salad 
 oil; brown delicately on a hot spider, then cover steam tight and 
 set back to let it cook for half an hour or more in its own steam. 
 Add one cup brown stock to the pan in which they were 
 browned; let it simmer to a demi-glaze and pour over the birds. 
 Serve with green peas. 
 
 Other Game Birds. 
 
 Partridge, pheasant, quail and prairie chicken may all be pre- 
 pared according to the several directions for grouse. 
 
 Partridge Broiled with Oyster Sauce. 
 
 Tie the legs back against the birds and simply cover with hot 
 water in which you have put a small slice of salt pork; let 
 them boil until tender, but not until the flesh is broken, and 
 remove them from the fire, leaving them uncovered in the hot 
 water. 
 
 Take two dozen oysters with their juice and prepare as 
 directed (page 31), put them into one cup white sauce (page 42), 
 and let them stand a moment without boiling. Take up the 
 partridge, pour the cream over and serve hot. 
 
 Snow-bunting. 
 
 These plump and delicate birds are almost identical with the 
 famous ortolans. Their flesh is so tender that they need to be 
 handled with the greatest care. Skin them carefully, cut off 
 the head and claws, pick out the eyes and twist the heads close 
 to the body, turn the feet back and wrap them in oiled paper 
 twisting the ends carefully. Broil them over a gentle fire for 
 about five minutes, then serve in the papers laid upon toast. 
 
 English Sparrows. 
 
 English sparrows are frequently sold for reed-birds by enter- 
 prising dealers who can reckon upon the ignorance or indiffer- 
 ence of their customers. They are really much more desirable 
 when shot in the country where they have been feeding on 
 grain and berries, and there need be no objection to the substi- 
 tution at a fair price. The bill of the reed bird is black and 
 slia rj>ly pointed; the h\\\ot the sparrow is very blunt and of a 
 horn color. The plumage of the reed-bird is generally lighter 
 than a sparrow's, but that is not an unvarying point. 
 
 Quail a la Cendre. 
 
 Dress as many quail as there are to be covers. Dry them 
 and put the livers inside again with a lit 
 Wrap each in a thin bairde of salt pork, tucking a leaf ot 
 under each wing. Wrap again in well buttered thick v 
 paper and roast half an hour in hot wood ashes as you v. 
 potatoes. Keniove the paper and serve with a sauce-bowl of 
 gravy, reduced with sauteme, 
 
 Ptarmigan. 
 
 Ptarmigan are roasted, broiled, etc., like teal duck. 
 
 Snipe. 
 
 The best season for snipe is from August till the frosts cc 
 in the latter part of October or November. Alter cleaning as 
 usual, remove the skin and eyes from the head, draw it down to 
 the legs and skewer the bill through the lower part of I 
 Pin a thin slice of larding pork around each bird and stung 
 them on a long skewer. Season well with salt, pepper and a 
 dust of cayenne, roll the uncovered ends in salad oil or melted 
 butter and broil for four or five minutes on each side. Serve 
 on hot toast that has been moistened with maitre d'hotel but- 
 ter and send to table with watercress. 
 
 Roasted Snipe. 
 
 Roasted snipe are prepared as above and roasted for ten 
 minutes in a very hot oven. The hearts and livers are minced 
 very fine with a teaspoon each of chives and butter. Salt and 
 pepper to taste. Spread piecesof stale bread with this dusting, 
 a few fresh crumbs on top and set in fierce oven for two 
 minutes. Dress the snipe on these, garnish with watercress 
 and serve the gravy that drips from the roasting birds in a 
 small bowl. 
 
 Woodcock, reed birds, rice birds, doe birds, plo .etc. 
 
 are cooked in the same way. 
 
 Salmi of Snipe. 
 
 Stuff six fat snipe with a rich forcemeat, stick the bills in 
 the breast and lay them in a roasting pan with a little butter. 
 Ten minutes is sufficient in a hot oven. In the meantime fry 
 six squares of bread in butter; lay the snipe on them and pour 
 over all one pint of salmi sauce. This is made of any rich and 
 highly-seasoned stock, to which is added two or three cooked 
 livers of any kind of cooked birds and twelve mushrooms cut 
 in dice. Boil up once, add a little grated yellow of lemon and 
 pour over the snipe, serving very hot. Some French cooks put 
 the birds into the sauce and stew together for a few minute-. 
 but the first method is best. 
 
 Larks. 
 
 What, is the jay more precious than the lark, 
 Because his feathers are more beautiful'.' 
 Taming of tiu Slrr, ir, iv. :i. 
 
 Our common meadow lark is as good for table use as his 
 more famous English cousin and has the advantage in addi- 
 tion of being considerably larger. 
 
 Roasted, Broiled or Stewed Larks. 
 
 For roast, broil or stew see directions for pigeon or snipe. 
 
 Lark Pie. 
 
 Pick and clean two dozen larks, cutting off their heads and 
 necks; fill them with a forcemeat made of their livers finely 
 minced (it is well to add all the livers of three or four broiling 
 chickens) three ounces of veal, three ounces fat bacon, a salt- 
 spoon of salt, as little pepper, sweet herbs and nutmeg as will 
 season (about one teaspoon of the mixture). Pound this 
 forcemeat well before putting it into the birds. Lay them into 
 a deep dish, pour over a pint of Spanish sauce (page 42), cover 
 with a rather thick fiat of short paste and bake in a moderate, 
 oven. Pour more gravy through the hole in the crust and gar- 
 nish the pie with leaves and twists of pastry. Best the third or 
 fourth day after baking. 
 
 To Cook Small Birds. 
 
 Parboil a sweet potato for each bird. Pare the potatoes. 
 Have the birds dressed and washed. Scoop out the center of 
 each potato while warm. Place the birds in the cavities; but- 
 ter, pepper and salt thoroughly. Set on end in a pan, put in a 
 hot oven for twenty minutes. To have this dish good, butter 
 must be used generously, and the oven very hot. 
 
 The truffled larks prepared by Ch. Teyssonneau of Bordeaux, 
 are to be had of all first-class grocers and are delicious for 
 lunch basket or for picnic parties. 
 
This is an important part of our food supply. It furnishes 
 nitrogen, chiefly in the form of albumen and gelatine, not in so 
 large proportion as meat, but sufficient to make a nourishing 
 food. It is, for most people, easily digested, and it makes an 
 agreeable change in the usual routine of roast, broil, fry and 
 boil. Indeed most people in this land of plenty eat far too 
 much meat; its cheapness brings it within the reach of all, and 
 the stimulus which it yields is so agreeable that we easily fall 
 into the habit of taking it morning, noon and night, while fish 
 is forgotten or neglected. A notable advantage, especially in 
 hot weather, is the short time required to cook fish; another is 
 the great variety of kinds, through the long list of fresh and 
 salt water, red or white fleshed, dry, salt or fresh. It is cheap 
 too as compared with meat, and ought to be still more so, for 
 very little time or expense is required to produce, only to bring 
 it to market. Those who do not live on the seaboard or near 
 the great lakes may still get fish reasonably fresh with the 
 refrigerator car service, while the remotest dweller on mountain 
 or plain may have them dried, pickled, smoked or tinned. 
 
 Very large fish are as a rule better when boiled or steamed, 
 medium sized ones should be baked or split and broiled and 
 small ones fried. Fish with dark meat being richer in fat and 
 higher flavored should not be fried. 
 
 A fish is in good condition when its gills are a bright clear 
 red, its eyes full and the body firm and stiff. Before cooking 
 they should be well washed in cold water, and kept in salt 
 water for a short time, but they should not be allowed to stand 
 in water for any length of time, and should be kept upon ice 
 until wanted. 
 
 Scrape with a dull knife from the tail toward the head. 
 If the fish is to be cooked at once, it will be much easier 
 to remove the scales if the fish is rinsed in boiling water. 
 Small fish to be served whole, have the entrails removed 
 by opening under the gills and pressing out their contents 
 with the thumb and finger. Larger fish are split half way 
 down the belly and the inside scraped and washed with 
 salt and water after it is empty. For broiling it is best 
 to remove the back bone entirely. Lay the fish flat on a 
 board and with a sharp knife lift the flesh from the bones on 
 one side, then turn and repeat on the other side, being careful 
 not to hack the meat. Split the head with the body and leave 
 on both head and tail unless too large for your broiler. 
 
 Broiled Fish. 
 
 Large fish should be split through the back to broil and for 
 most stoves the head and tail must be removed. Use a double 
 wire broiler and grease it well before laying in the fish. Dust 
 the fish with salt and pepper and broil the flesh side first till 
 almost done, then cook on the skin side just long enough to 
 brown it well. Small fish require from five to ten minutes. 
 Thick ones from fifteen to twenty minutes. Turn a dripping- 
 pan over the broiler and it will cook more evenly. There 
 is no excuse for scorching the fish," as one can always scatter a 
 few ashes over a hot fire. Spread generously with butter and 
 set in the warming oven a minute to let it penetrate the fish. 
 Garnish with parsley or water-cress after taking from the oven. 
 
 Spanish Mackerel. 
 
 Draw by the gills; wash, rubbing with coarse salt and trim off 
 all the fins closely. Split down the back, remove the bone, wipe 
 dry and season with salt and pepper; brush over thoroughly 
 with oil and broil slowly till well cooked. Slide on a hot dish 
 and pour over melted butter or any suitable sauce. 
 
 k So 
 
 Salmon Bone Broiled. 
 
 In filleting a fish to be broiled, leave a half inch or more of 
 meat on the backbone. Rub well with salt and cayenne pepper 
 and broil over a clear fire till well browned. This is delicious 
 for breakfast. 
 
 Baked Fish. 
 
 The best fish to bake are white fish, bass, pickerel, pike, red- 
 snapper, shad, etc, all having white flesh. They should be 
 basted often and a stuffing also serves to keep the fish moist as 
 well as to season it. 
 
 Clean, wipe and dry the fish. If the fish is slimy, like a musk- 
 allonge, scald with hot water before attempting to clean. 
 Rub with salt inside and out, stuff and sew with soft darning 
 cotton, leaving a large knot at one end that you can find 
 after the fish is baked; cut gashes two inches apart on 
 each side so they will alternate — not oppose each other — 
 and skewer into the shape of an S or an O; put the tish 
 on a sheet, rub all over with soft butter, salt and pepper 
 and place narrow strips of salt pork in the gashes; dredge with 
 flour (or not, just as you please), and put into a hot oven with- 
 out water; baste with hot water and butter as soon as it begins 
 to brown and repeat every ten minutes afterwards. Remove 
 it carefully from the fish sheet and place it on a hot platter, 
 draw out the string, wipe off all the water or fat which runs 
 from the fish and remove the pieces of pork. Pour Holland- 
 aise sauce around (not over) the fish, or serve a drawn butter 
 sauce flavored with lemon,and pile Saratoga chips lightly around 
 the fish. Garnish the head of the fish with parsley or water- 
 cresses. Fish that have been frozen are almost sure to break; 
 if they do, fill in the broken places with parsley. 
 
 Stuffing for Baked Fish. 
 
 For a fish weighing four to six pounds take one cup of 
 cracker crumbs, one saltspoon of salt, one saltspoon of pepper, 
 one teaspoon of chopped onions, one teaspoon of chopped par- 
 sley, one teaspoon of capers, one teaspoon of chopped pickles, 
 and one-fourth cup of melted butter. This makes a dry, 
 crumbly stuffing; if a moist stuffing is desired, use stale (not 
 dried) bread crumbs and moisten with one beaten egg and the 
 butter; or moisten the cracker crumbs with warm water. Bo 
 not pack the stuffing in the fish, allow it to lie lightly and 
 leave room enough for it to swell in cooking. 
 
 Oyster Stuffing. 
 
 One pint of oysters, one cup of seasoned and buttered 
 cracker crumbs. Drain and roll each oyster in the crumbs. 
 Fill the fish with the oysters and sprinkle the remainder of the 
 crumbs over the oysters.— From Mrs. Lincoln's "Boston Cook 
 Book. 
 
 Baked Halibut Steaks. 
 
 Trim the steaks, lay them in a roasting-pan, and for two 
 pounds use one cup of cream, one teaspoon of flour, one table- 
 spoon of butter, one teaspoon of salt and a saltspoon of pepper. 
 Dredge the steaks with the flour; add the seasoning and dot 
 with the butter; then pour over the cream, and bake fifteen 
 minutes in a quick oven. These are delicious. Fresh cod may 
 be treated in the same way, and if any is left it will make an 
 excellent scallop. 
 
 It is much safer and easier in baking fish to use a Daking 
 sheet to lay in the pan under the fish. It should be an inch 
 smaller each way than the pan. It can be bought fitted with 
 rings to lift out by, but any piece of sheet iron or tin will do; 
 a tomato can melted and flattened. 
 
WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 29 
 
 Bread stuffing. 
 
 Soak half a pint, of bread crumbs in water; when soft press 
 out all the water. Fry one tablespoon minced onion in two of 
 butter, add the bread, a teaspoon chopped parsley, pepper and 
 
 sail. Lei rook till nearly dry, coot for a few minutes and beat, 
 
 Meat Stuffing. 
 
 One-quarter pound lender lean veal, one-eighth pound fat 
 bacon chopped line. Add one-fourth the measure of white 
 bread crumbs, soaked and pressed, season to taste with chopped 
 onion, parsley or mushroom and plenty of salt and pepper, 
 
 Small Fish Baked. 
 
 Lav in a baking dish with chopped onion, mushrooms and 
 
 ubthe fish with salt, pepper, a bit, of nutmeg and dot 
 
 with butter. Pour in enough thin broth to cover bottom of 
 
 dish, add (lie juice of one-half lemon and bake till the llesh 
 
 parts easily from the bone. 
 
 Whitefish, Point Shirley Style. 
 
 Split the lish and lay open with the meat side up. Season 
 with salt and pepper anil place in a baking-pan on a bed of 
 pork chips. Bake in a very quick oven, brushing it over once 
 or twice with beaten egg while it is cooking. 
 
 Boiling. 
 
 Boiling, unless done au Court Bouillon is a most unsatisfac- 
 factory way of preparing fish, as it renders the meat insipid 
 and imparts a peculiar woolly texture not pleasant to the sen- 
 sitive tongue. Steaming is better in every way and much easier 
 for the unskilled cook. An hour before the lish is to be cooked 
 cover it thickly inside and out with salt, let it stand till live 
 minutes before time to put it over the lire. Wash off the salt, 
 pin in a piece of coarse muslin and drop into fresh boiling 
 water, or lay in a steamer over boiling water. 
 
 Allow about six minutes to the pound, and test by lifting the 
 llesh from the bones in the thickest part. If it separates easily, 
 it is cooked enough and should be taken up at once, and well 
 drained before serving. Lay on a folded napkin on the platter, 
 as the juice will run. Underdone lish are dangerously unwhole- 
 some. 
 
 Steamed Fish. 
 
 Clean carefully, but without removing head or fins. Rub 
 inside and out with salt, pepper and lemon juice, laying slices 
 of onion inside, if liked. Lay on a buttered paper and steam 
 till the tlesh parts easily from the bones. Lay on a folded nap- 
 kin, dress with lemon and parsley and send to the table with 
 Poulette Sauce. 
 
 Salmon, Boiled Plain. 
 
 Have ready a fish-kettle with enough boiling soft water to 
 cover the fish; wash off the water from the lish and let it come 
 rather slowly to the boil again. Simmer very gently till done, 
 allowing about fifteen minutes to each pound. Throw in one 
 tablespoon salt just before it is done. Serve with plain drawn 
 butter sauce. 
 
 Darne of Salmon. 
 
 Is the middle cut; there are but two, or sometimes three from 
 a large fish. Lay in a stew-pan on a bed of sliced carrots and 
 onions, (two tablespoons each) parsley and peppercorns; 
 dredge lightly with salt and pour over one pint claret, one pint 
 thin broth, dot with three tablespoons butter and cover with a 
 buttered paper. Bring quickly to a boil and simmer very | 
 gently one hour. Drain and remove the skin, mask with a 
 Remoulade sauce. The liquor in which the lish is cooked can 
 be strained and used several times. 
 
 Pike a la Soyer. 
 
 Cleanse as usual, leaving head and tail on. Place on the 
 drainer in a fish-kettle with (four pounds lish) one level table- 
 spoon salt, six pepper-corns two leaves parsley, one tablespoon 
 butter, one carrot, one onion sliced fine, one cup white wine. 
 one pint water. Cover with a thickly buttered paper, set to 
 boil and simmer forty minutes. Meantime prepare a sauce; 
 one ounce butter and one tablespoon Hour worked together, 
 add enough lish gravy to make a white sauce, thicken with one 
 egg yolk beaten with an equal bulk of water and strain, finish 
 with lemon-juice, one tablespoon Soyer's sauce and all the but- 
 ter it will absorb. Slide the fish on a folded napkin; garnish 
 with parsley and potato chips. Send sauce to table in a bowl. 
 
 Boiled Cod with Oysters. 
 
 (The only thing that can be urged against this most excel- 
 lenl lish is its homely name. Were it not so cheap, its good 
 qualities would rapidly find favor at all gastronomic < 
 in. nls.) Put the lish into boiling water. Slightly sailed; add a 
 few whole cloves and peppers and a bit of lemon-peel; pull 
 gently on the fins, and when they come out easily the lish is 
 done. . Arrange neatly on a folded napkin, garnish, and serve 
 wil h oyster sauce. Take six oysters to every pound of fish and 
 scald (blanch) them in a half-pint of hot oyster liquor; take 
 out the oysters and add to the liquor salt, pepper, a bit of mace 
 and an ounce of butter; whip into it a gill of milk containing 
 a quarter of a tablespoon of flour. Simmer a moment, add the 
 oysters, and send to table in a sauce-boat. 
 
 Stewed Fish with Oysters. 
 
 Cut the fish in pieces for serving, remove the skin and bone. 
 Spread a thick coating of butter over the bottom of a stew-pan, 
 lay in the fish, season each layer with salt and pepper, pour on 
 boiling water to more than cover, add a tablespoon of lemon 
 juice or vinegar and simmer fifteen or twenty minutes, or till 
 the fish is cooked but not broken. Adda tablespoon of Hour 
 cooked in a tablespoon of hot butter; mix it well with tin 
 ing liquid without breaking the lish. Add a quart of o\ 
 or enough to equal the amount of fish. Simmer until 
 oysters are plump. Add more seasoning if needed and. 
 very hot. 
 
 Smelts as a Garnish. 
 
 Smelts are often fried plain or. rolled in meal or Hour 
 and then fried, they are used to garnish other kinds of 
 fish. With baked fish they aie arranged around the dish in 
 any form that the taste of the cook may dictate; but in garnish- 
 ing lish or any other dish, the arrangement should always be 
 simple, so as not to make the matter of serving any harder 
 than if the dish were not garnished. Smelts are also seasoned 
 well with salt and pepper, dipped in butter and afterwards in 
 tlour and place in a very hot oven for eight or ten minutes to 
 get a handsome brown. They are then served as a garnish, or 
 on slices of buttered toast. When smelts are used as a garnish, 
 serve one on each plate with the other fish. If you wish to 
 have the smelts in rings for a garnish, fasten the tails in the 
 opening at the gills with little wooden toothpicks; then dip 
 them in the beaten egg and in the crumbs, place in the frying- 
 basket and plunge into the boiling fat. When they are cooked 
 take out the skewers and they will retain their shape. 
 
 Panned Fish. 
 
 This is suitable for any small fish or such as can be cut in 
 slices. Have the fish well cleaned, seasoned with pepper and 
 salt and dried with a little flour, or better still, very line bread 
 crumbs. Have a large frying-pan smoking hot with as little 
 grease in it as will keep the fish from sticking. Dripping from 
 good, sweet salt pork is the best, but any sweet dripping will 
 do. When the fat begins to smoke blue, lay in the fish and 
 brown quickly on both sides, then cover closely and set back to 
 cook more slowly, from ten to twenty minutes, according to the 
 size of the fish. Bass in all its varieties, black, green, striped, 
 calico, Oswego and grass are suitable to cook in this way, so are 
 butter-fish, cisco, perch, herring, trout, bream, etc. 
 
 FRIED FISH. 
 
 Fish for frying should be thoroughly dried after cleaning, 
 seasoned with salt and pepper, roHed in fine bread crumbs, 
 dipped in beaten egg, rolled in crumbs again, fried in deep 
 fat like doughnuts; put in only a few pieces at a time to avoid 
 chilling the fat and let it reheat before frying any more. The 
 temperature should not fall below 375 degrees. From two to 
 live minutes is sufficient for any but extra large pieces. The 
 fish is done when it rises to the top of the fat. "Drain perfectly 
 dry on paper and arrange on a folded napkin. Fry the parsley 
 that is to garnish the dish, taking care to have it crisp, without 
 changing its color. 
 
 Fried Cod or Haddock. 
 
 Remove the skin (ask the fish-dealer to remove it for you), 
 cut in square pieces and remove the backbone. Scrape all the 
 lish from the bones, and press it with a knife into the larger 
 pieces. Season with salt and pepper and roll in fine white corn- 
 meal. Fry several slices of salt pork, enough to have a cup of 
 fat. Lay the fish in the hot fat, cook brown on each. side. 
 Drain on soft paper and serve hot. Spread with butter, and 
 garnish with slices of lemon. 
 
 Any fish having firm white flesh can be prepared in this man- 
 ner and it is a vast improvement on the old method of sending 
 all the bones to the table. 
 
30 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 I 
 
 Fried Halibut. 
 
 Let the slices lie in cold salted water, to which has been 
 added one cup of vinegar, for ten or fifteen minutes. Dry them 
 afterwards thoroughly by wiping with a towel, and dusting 
 cracker meal on both sides. Lay them in smoking hot salad 
 oil, and they will be well cooked and of a pale brown in three 
 or five minutes, according to the thickness of the slices. 
 
 Halibut, Maitre d'H6tel. 
 
 Cut three pounds of halibut into pieces three inches square- 
 Dip each in beaten egg, then in sifted bread crumbs. Fry in 
 boiling lard to a rich brown. Rub a heaping teaspoon of but- 
 ter to a cream, add the juice of a lemon, a tablespoon of chopped 
 parsley, salt and pepper, mix and spread on the hot squares of 
 halibut, set in the oven just long enough to melt, then serve. 
 Not difficult, and delicious for summer breakfasts. 
 
 Fried Roe. 
 
 "Wash and wipe, fry twenty minutes in hot fat in a frying- 
 pan, turning at the end of fifteen minutes. Season, dish on a 
 hot platter and garnish with fried oysters or fried potatoes. 
 Garnish with a great bunch of parsley at each end and a half 
 lemon set in the parsley. 
 
 Fish au Gratin. 
 
 Six pounds of any fish with white meat, steamed, freed from 
 skin and bone and broken into flakes. One pint of cream 
 sauce No. 1 and one cup cracker crumbs moistened with melted 
 butter; put a layer of fish in a gratin dish, season well with 
 salt, pepper, cayenne and celery salt, and sprinkle with 
 chopped parsley, pour over a part of the cream sauce, repeat till 
 the fish is all used, reserving most of the sauce to pour over the 
 top; sprinkle buttered crumbs over the top and bake in a rather 
 quick oven until it boils up in the middle and the crumbs are 
 brown. 
 
 Matelote of Eels. 
 
 Cut one and one-half pounds of eels into slices one inch thick 
 and saute them in hot butter two minutes. Add a glass of 
 white wine and three tablespoons of mushroom liquor (one- 
 half the liquor from a small can). Season well with salt and 
 pepper and a dust of nutmeg. Cook for ten minutes, then add 
 one-half pint of good drawn butter made with broth if possi- 
 ble, six mushrooms, twelve parboiled oysters, six fish quenelles 
 and six small cooked crawfish tails. Simmer again forfivemin- 
 utes or longer if needed to make the fish tender without break- 
 ing. Arrange the slices in a ring on the platter, each slice 
 overlapping the one before it; thicken the gravy with a liaison 
 of three egg yolks and pour it over the fish. — Adapted from 
 Filippina. 
 
 Salmon Pasty (Norway and Sweden). 
 
 Two pounds of salmon cutlets, cut thin, breaded and fried 
 brown in butter and left to cool. Take two pounds of fresh 
 pike or other fish, mince fine, and add a teaspoon of salt, a 
 pinch of cayenne, the juice and grated rind of a lemon, two 
 beaten eggs, and a spoon of melted butter. Mix all well to- 
 gether. Line a large meat-pie mould with good pastry, spread 
 a layer of the minced fish upon it, and then the salmon, with 
 mushrooms, shrimps and oysters in between. Cover with the 
 rest of the pike, rounding it up in dome-shape, and lay on a 
 thick lid of pastry, making a small hole in the center, and cover- 
 ing it with some leaves of pastry. Bake one hour in a mod- 
 erate oven, and then pour into the hole a cupful of white sauce 
 or rich fish broth. Serve hot or cold. 
 
 A Norwegian Fish-Pudding. 
 
 Take a five or six pound haddock, clean, skin, fillet and scrape 
 to a pulp with a knife. Pound in a mortar until it is smooth; 
 add one teaspoon salt and one tablespoon butter, and continue 
 working for ten minutes. Transfer to a large bowl and work 
 in with a potato masher two egg yolks blended with one cup of 
 cream, putting it in by spoonfuls; add another cup cream 
 and one-half pepperspoon allspice. Beat furiously and when it 
 is frothy put in a buttered mold and steam for three hours. If 
 desired the top may be browned before serving, but it should 
 be quickly done. Serve with cream and caper sauce (p. 42.) It 
 should be fine, smooth and firm as blanc mange. Fresh cod 
 may be used instead of haddock. Instead of making a pudding 
 the paste may be formed into balls the size of an egg, steamed 
 in a close mold or box and afterwards fried brown in batter 
 and served either with or without sauce, or they may be 
 poached in a curry sauce or made very small and dropped into 
 a thick fish soup. In frying fish Norwegian cooks often dust 
 the pieces with grated cheese and add alittle to the sauce served 
 with the fish. — Adapted from "The Epicure." 
 
 Fish Cutlets. 
 
 • 
 
 Cut the fish in squares or in slices across the back, removing 
 all the bones. Dry, dip in batter and fry in deep boiling lard. 
 It is quite necessary that the lard should boil. When a gold 
 color, drain till dry on brown paper and serve on a folded nap- 
 kin with a quantity of parsley or cresses and a thin slice of 
 lemon. A tomato, mayonnaise or tartare sauce may be served 
 with the cutlets. 
 
 Dropped Fish Balls. 
 
 One half pint of raw fish, one heaping pint of pared potatoes 
 (let the potatoes be under medium size), two eggs, butter the 
 size of an egg and a little pepper. Cut the fish in half -inch 
 slices across the grain, and measure it lightly. Put the 
 potatoes into the boiler and the fish on top of them; then 
 cover with boiling water and boil half an hour, or until 
 tender. Drain off all the water and mash fish and potatoes 
 together until fine and light. Then add the butter and 
 pepper and the egg, well beaten. Have a deep kettle of 
 boiling fat. Dip a tablespoon in it and then take up a 
 spoonful of the mixture, having care to get it into as good shapf 
 as possible. Drop into the boiling fat and cook until brown, 
 which should be in two minutes. Be careful not to crowd the 
 balls and also that the fat is hot enough. The spoon should be 
 dipped in the fat every time you take a spoon of the mixture. 
 These balls are delicious. 
 
 To Cook Salt Codfish. 
 
 The fish should be thoroughly washed and soaked in cold 
 water twelve hours. Change the water and put on to cook. 
 As soon as the water comes to the boiling point set back where 
 it will keep hot, but will not boil. From four to six hours will 
 cook a very dry, hard fish, and there are kinds which will cook 
 in half an hour. If it has hung in a furnace heated cellar till 
 hard it will never come tender. It is best not to buy more than 
 will be used in a week or two. Like ham, bacon and meat in 
 general, it should be hung, not laid on a shelf. 
 
 Frog Legs. 
 
 The green marsh frogs furnish the best hams, as they are 
 more tender and have less of the strong muddy flavor. They 
 are generally liked fried. Pare off the feet and truss them by 
 inserting the stump along the shin of the other leg. Put them 
 with salt, pepper and lemon juice to steep for an hour, then 
 drain and roll in flour, then in beaten egg and in fine bread 
 crumbs. Fry to a light brown in hot fat. Serve with fried 
 parsley. 
 
 Stewed Frogs a la Poulette. 
 
 Trim, truss and marinate as for frying. Cook in a sautoir 
 with two tablespoons butter, salt, pepper and a speck of nut- 
 meg. Cook briskly and long enough to evaporate the water 
 without allowing them to burn. Add two glasses white wine, 
 a pint of velvet sauce; cover and boil till quite tender. Skim, 
 add a liaison of four egg-yolks, one tablespoon chopped parsley, 
 the juice of a lemon and two ounces of butter. Mix well and 
 serve with fried croutons. 
 
 Frog Legs a la Mariniere. 
 
 Saute three dozen legs with two ounces of butter, one-half 
 pint chopped mushrooms, four shallots. As soon as well 
 colored add a tablespoon flour, a little salt, pepper and cayenne, 
 and moisten with a half pint of white wine and enough 
 consomme' to nearly cover. Boil ten minutes. Mix the yolks 
 of four eggs with two tablespoons cream and stir it into the 
 boiling mixture. Remove at once from the lire and serve. 
 
 SHELL FISH. 
 
 Oysters on the Half Shell. 
 
 Keep on ice till serving time. Have small soup-plates hair 
 full of fine ice and lay the oysters, in the deep half of the shell, 
 on the plates as fast as opened. Salt, pepper and a cut lemon 
 should be served at the side, and a true oyster lover will use no 
 other sauce. Small oysters are preferred, and four to six are 
 enough for each plate. 
 
 On a Block of Ice. 
 
 Have the dealer chip in a ten pound block of perfectly clear 
 ice, a cavity large enough to hold as many oysters as are to be 
 served. Clean and drain them as usual, but do not season, as 
 it causes the juice to flow. Fold a large towel and cover it 
 with a napkin to lay in the platter; prop the block of ice care- 
 fully with wads of cloth, lest it should tilt in melting- Fill the 
 platter full of parsley, so that the ice should seem to be resting 
 on green leaves only, and garnish the edge of the oysters with 
 fine small sprigs of parsley and celery tips. 
 
WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 31 
 
 To Prepare Oysters for Cooking. 
 
 Pour half a cup of cold water «'\ er one quart of oysters; take 
 out each oyster separately with ithe fingers and free from any 
 bits of shell. The oyster liquor may be strained and used in 
 soup, stew or escallop if desired. Fried and broiled oysters are 
 h better and cook easier if parboiled slightly beforecrumb 
 ing, Place onepini of cleaned oysters in a frying basket and 
 dip it for one-half minute in a kettle id' boiling water deep 
 enough to cover them. Drain, dry on a soft towel ami proceed 
 as usual. 
 
 Broiled Oysters. 
 
 Take the largest oysters, scald, dram, dry on a towel and dip 
 one by ime into softened butter till well coated and then in sea- 
 soned Hour. Lay them on a buttered broiler. Cook over clear 
 ciials until a light brown. Serve on slices of buttered thin 
 1 1 iast. If done by a gas stove lay the toast under the broiler to 
 catch the drip. Fine cracker crumbs may be used instead of 
 flour, oysters that have been breaded for frying are good 
 broiled. 
 
 Broiled Oysters No. 2. 
 
 Take two dozen large oysters, cleaned, drained and dried in 
 a soft cloth. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Melt two ounces 
 butter in a large frying pan, lay in one dozen, as soon as the 
 last one is in turn the lirst one and when all have been turned 
 begin taking out, laying them closely on a large buttered oyster 
 broiler; cook to a light brown over moderate lire. While these 
 are browning the other dozen may be "set" in the butter. Have 
 six rounds of toast on a hot platter; put four oysters on each, 
 sprinkle on the butter in which they were stiffened and serve 
 with lemon cut in eighths. 
 
 Deviled Oysters. 
 
 One heaping saltspoon dry mustard, one-half saltspoon each 
 pepper and salt and the yolk of one egg. Mix to a smooth 
 paste and coat six large oysters with it. Roll them in fine 
 crumbs and broil over a clear tire. Arrange and serve. 
 
 Spindled Oysters. 
 
 For six persons take two dozen large oysters, two ounces 
 bacon and six small slices of thin toast. Six slender steel 
 skewers will be needed. Cut two dozen wafers of bacon. Fill 
 the skewers with bacon and oyster alternately, running the 
 skewer cross-grain through the muscle of the oyster and string- 
 ing the bits of bacon by one corner so that each slice may over- 
 lie an oyster; do not crowd them. Lay the skewers across a 
 baking-pan and cook under gas or in a quick oven for five 
 minutes. Do not take the oysters from the spindle but lay 
 each one on a slice of toast, pour over them the drip from the 
 pan and serve at once. 
 
 Griddled Oysters No, 2. 
 
 Clean, scald and drain two dozen large oysters. Have a large 
 griddle evenly heated; drop on it a bit of sweet butter as large 
 as a pea and put an oyster on it; lay on one dozen and give 
 them plenty of room; put on anotherbit of butter and turn the 
 lirst oyster on to that; proceed in this way for all. Do not let 
 them burn, but they must brown quickly. If too much butter 
 is put on it will spread over the griddle and scorch and the 
 smoke will ruin the oysters. Serve four to each person on a 
 two-inch square of rye short cake. 
 
 Oysters Roasted in the Shell. 
 
 Wash the shells clean and wipe dry. Place in a baking-pan 
 and put in a hot oven for about twenty minutes. Serve on hot 
 dishes the moment they are taken from the oven. Though this 
 is not an elegant dish, many people enjoy it, as the first and 
 best flavor of the oysters is retained in this manner of cooking. 
 The oysters can, instead, be opened into a hot dish and seasoned 
 with butter, salt, pepper, and lemon juice. They should be 
 served immediately. 
 
 Roasted Oysters on Toast. 
 
 Eighteen large oysters, or thirty small ones, one teaspoon of 
 Hour, one tablespoon of butter, salt, pepper, three slices of toast. 
 Have the toast buttered and on a hot dish. Put the butter in 
 j, small sauce-pan, and when hot add the dry flour. Stir until 
 smooth, but not brown; then add the cream, and let it boil up 
 once. Put the oysters (in their own liquor) into a hot oven for 
 three minutes; then add them to the cream. Season and pour 
 over the toast. Garnish the dish with thin slices of lemon, and 
 serve very hot. It is nice for lunch or tea. 
 
 For oyster soup see chapter on soup.— Miss Parloa. 
 
 Oyster Stew. 
 
 Boil one cup of strained oyster liquor ami ball' a cup of 
 water. Skim, add half a teaspoon of salt, half a saltspoon of 
 pepper, one tablespoon of butter, ami one tablespoon rolled 
 cracker. When it begins to boil add onequart of oysters. Boil 
 one minute. Put half a cup of cream or cold milk into the 
 t ureen, and pour the boiling stew over it. 
 
 Fried Oysters. 
 
 Pick over, scald and drain dry two dozen oysters, sprinkle 
 lightly with red pepper, roll in cracker dust, dip in egg mixed 
 u ith an equal quantity of thick cream; drain and roll in fresh 
 line bread crumbs; press gently with a palette knife, fry half a 
 dozen at a time in clear fat, hot enough to brown thei 
 minute. As soon as the first basket is lifted drop in a half 
 dozen slices of raw potato to keep the fat from burning while 
 the oysters are changed for another half dozen; proceed in this 
 way until all are clone. (Put in a whole potato in slices and 
 take from the fire at once; with a little care the same fat may 
 be used repeatedly, when otherwise it would be blackened the 
 first time.) Drain the oysters on soft brown paper. Have a 
 tuft of parsley on a hot folded napkin; range the oysters 
 quickly and serve instantly. It is better not to begin frying 
 until they are wanted than to delay serving. Nothing can be 
 less inviting than a cold fried oyster or one that has been kept 
 hot for live minutes. 
 
 Philadelphia Fry. 
 
 Proceed as before, but after they are rolled in crumbs the 
 first time, dip them in very cold, thick mayonnaise, then into 
 egg, and roll in crumbs again before frying. This is difficult 
 but delicious. 
 
 Sauteed. 
 
 To one pint prepared oysters put one pint stale bread crumbs, 
 season and add two eggs beaten lightly. Let them stand one 
 hour, then lay by spoons in a frying-pan and brown quickly on 
 both sides in hot butter. Serve at once. 
 
 Creamed Oysters. 
 
 Prepare cream sauce No. 1, taking one-half the quantity of 
 butter, scald the oysters until the edges begin to curl, drain and 
 drop them into the cream sauce; let all stand in bain marie for 
 five minutes to season thorough. Serve in Swedish timbales 
 or in pate shells. It is very nice used as a filling for short cake, 
 croustade, or on toast. 
 
 White Fricassee of Oysters. 
 
 Put one tablespoon of butter into a frying-pan, and, when 
 hot, put in one pint of oysters washed and drained. Cook till 
 plump and drain again. Pour the oyster liquor into a cup and 
 fill with cream. Cook one tablespoon flour with one of butter 
 and blend with the cream and oyster liquor; add one-half salt- 
 spoon pepper and about one-half teaspoon salt. (Oysters vary 
 in freshness.) Beat one egg very light and pour the oyster sauce 
 upon it; add the oysters and return to the pan to be well heated, 
 but it must not boil. Stir gently that it may cook evenly. Serve 
 in crust or pastry shells if for lunch or dinner; for breakfast or 
 tea, on toast. — Miss Amy Barnes. 
 
 Brown Fricassee 
 
 Is made in the same way except that one-half tablespoon flour 
 is carefully browned in the butter; add the oysters seasoned 
 with salt, cayenne and lemon juice. Stir gently, and as soon as 
 they cool, sprinkle with a little finely chopped parsley and 
 serve on dry buttered toast. 
 
 Panned Oysters. 
 
 Put one tablespoon butter in a covered saucepan with one- 
 half saltspoon of white pepper, one teaspoon salt, and a few 
 grains of cayenne, when hot add one pint of washed and drained 
 oysters, cover closely and shake the pan to keep them from 
 sticking; cook about three minutes or until plump. Serve on 
 toasted bread or crackers. 
 
 Oysters Panned in the Shell. 
 
 Wash the shells and wipe dry. Place them in a pan with the 
 round shell down. Set in a hot oven for three minutes; then 
 take out and remove the upper shell. Put two or three oysters 
 into one of tne round shells, season with pepper and salt, add 
 butter, the size of two peas, and cover with cracker or bread 
 crumbs. Return to the oven and brown. 
 
" T1 ~>TN.T 
 
 32 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 > 
 
 •• 
 
 Scolloped Oysters. 
 
 One quart solid oysters cleaned and drained, one-half cap 
 butter, one cup grated bread crumbs, one cup coarse cracker 
 crumbs. Rub a pudding-pan thickly with cold butter and 
 sprinkle a layer of bread crumbs, moisten the rest of the bread 
 with part of the butter melted and stir the rest of the butter into 
 the cracker. Arrange oysters and bread in alternate layers, using 
 cracker for the top. Season each with pepper and salt, allow- 
 ing one and one-half teaspoons of salt, one saltspoon of pep- 
 per and about one tablespoon of lemon juice for the whole. 
 Pour over one-quarter cup of the oyster liquor and set aside for 
 an hour. If it looks very dry add another one-quarter cup of 
 oyster juice before baking. Cook about twenty-five minutes 
 in a quick oven. Wine, milk or Worcestershire sauce are 
 sometimes used, but are no improvement. One suspects that 
 the oysters are not fresh when disguised by such high seasoning. 
 
 To Pickle Oysters. 
 
 Two hundred large oysters, half a pint of vinegar, half a 
 pint of white wine, four spoons of salt, six spoons of whole 
 black pepper and a little mace. Strain the liquor, and add 
 the above-named ingredients. Let boil up once, and pour, 
 while boiling hot, over the oysters. After these have stood ten 
 minutes, pour off the liquor, which, as well as the oysters, 
 should then be allowed to get cold. Put into a jar and' cover 
 tight. The oysters will keep some time.— Miss Parloa. 
 
 Clams. 
 
 There is really no special season for these most nutritious 
 fish, but custom decrees that they shall be served only during 
 the season when oysters are forbidden. Most of the methods 
 of serving oysters can be applied with slight modifications to 
 the cooking of clams— but the following directions for cooking 
 in a chafing-dish are worth noting: 
 
 Select one dozen large Guilford clams, wash thoroughly and 
 plunge them into boiling water for a moment. Drain and open 
 them and use the round plump part only. Put in the chafing- 
 dish a pat of butter and when quite hot add a dust of flour and 
 cayenne to suit the taste; simmer the clams till they are 
 slightly cooked, about four minutes and pour in one gill light 
 sherry. Cover and simmer five minutes. Serve on hot toast. 
 
 Clam Broth. 
 
 Twenty-five clams washed and drained, steam till the shells 
 open easily; save every drop of juice that comes with open- 
 ing and add enough water to make one quart. With a pair of 
 scissors trim off the soft part of the clam and reserve to serve 
 with the broth. Chop the tough portion a little and simmer fif- 
 teen minutes in the broth. Strain and add pepper and salt if 
 needed, and serve in very small bouillon cups. Send the re- 
 served portion to the table with melted butter and lemon juice 
 poured over them. 
 
 Scallops. 
 
 The only edible part of the scollop is the central muscle by 
 which the mollusk opens and closes its shell. Shippers some- 
 times add saleratus to the scollops to improve their appearance, 
 but this is a detriment to the fish. In buying, avoid the large 
 ones that are very white, choosing instead those of medium 
 size and the natural creamy white color. Tney are most appe- 
 tizing when fried. Rinse them in salt water, dry in a napkin 
 and dredge with flour. Fry in very hot pork fat. Egg and 
 crumbs are not needed. 
 
 Scallop Broth. 
 
 Wash and cut in small pieces one-half pint, add one-half pint 
 each of milk and water, a dot of butter and salt to taste. 
 Simmer twenty minutes, strain and serve. 
 
 Scallops in Shells. 
 
 Drain a pint of them and toss them with a tablespoon of 
 butter in a sauce-pan letting them brown lightly for about ten 
 minutes. Then take them up and chop them fine. Melt a 
 spoonful of butter in a sauce-pan, add a small onion minced 
 fine and brown it lightly. Then add a heaping teaspoon of 
 flour and stir in slowly a cupful ef the liquor drained from the 
 scallops. Season with a teaspoon of salt, a pinch of cayenne, 
 and a little white pepper. Mix with the chopped scallops four 
 tablespoons of bread crumbs and the yolks of three eggs, and 
 cook all together for three minutes. Then fill the shells, 
 sprinkle fine bread crumbs over the top, and dot with bits of 
 butter, and set them in a hot oven to brown for ten minutes. 
 Serve them on a platter with a garnish of green. 
 
 Lobster. 
 
 Lobster, to be eatable, should be perfectly fresh. One of the 
 tests of freshness is to draw back the tail, for if it springs into 
 position again, it is safe to think the fish good. The time of 
 boiling varies with the size of the lobster and in different local- 
 ities. In Boston, Rockport, and other places on the Massachu- 
 setts coast the time is fifteen or twenty minutes for large lob- 
 sters and ten for small. The usual way is to plunge them into 
 boiling water enough to cover, and to continue boiling them 
 until they are done. Some people advocate putting the lobsters 
 into cold water and letting this come to a boil gradually. They 
 claim that the lobsters do not suffer so much. This may be so, 
 but it seems as if death must instantly follow the plunge into 
 boiling water. Cooking a lobster too long makes it tough and 
 dry. When, on opening a lobster, you find the meat clinging 
 to the shell and very much shrunken, you may be sure the time 
 of boiling was too long. There are very few modes of cooking 
 lobster in which it should be more than thoroughly heated, as 
 much cooking toughens it and destroys the fine, delicate flavor 
 of the meat. 
 
 Lobster Newburg. 
 
 Cut the meat of two small lobsters into small thin slices and 
 cook them slowly in four tablespoons of butter for live minutes. 
 Then add one teaspoon of salt, one saltspoon pepper, a speck of 
 cayenne, two tablespoons each of brandy and sherry, a dash of 
 mace and simmer five minutes longer. Beat well the yolks of 
 four eggs, mix with them one cup cream and pour it over the 
 cooking mixture. Stir constantly for one and one-half minutes, 
 then serve quickly in a warm dish. Garnish with triangles of 
 puff-paste. 
 
 Lobster Souffle. 
 
 Dice a two-pound lobster, showing the red side as much as 
 possible. Put bands of writing paper, about two inches high, 
 around as many individual ramequin cases as you wish" to 
 serve. Beat three tablespoons of stiff mayonnaise, one cup 
 aspic jelly, one-half cup tomato sauce together until they bi 
 to look white, then stir in the pieces of lobster, adding a very 
 little tarragon vinegar, or better still, one teaspoon chopped 
 tarragon and put away to stiffen in a very cold place. When 
 set take off the papers carefully, garnish with pounded coral or 
 browned crumbs. 
 
 Stewed Lobster, No. 1. 
 
 Take the meat of two medium lobsters cut in dice, season 
 with salt as needed, one half saltspoon cayenne, and one half 
 lemon. Make a white sauce, p. 39, add another tablespoon but- 
 ter and the seasoned lobster; let it simmer ten minutes and 
 
 serve hot. ,, . _ . . ... 
 
 Stewed Lobster No. 2. 
 
 (En Chevreuse). One ounce butter boiling hot, one small 
 onion sliced thin, cook together until slightly yellow, then add 
 one and one-half pounds diced lobster and a glass of any good 
 red wine. Season with salt, pepper and a dust of nutmeg, add 
 one pint veloute sauce and simmer for ten minutes. Serve in 
 table shells (it will fill six) lay three slices of truffle on each and 
 one teaspoon of good bechamel. This is very nice prepared in 
 a chafing-dish and served on squares of buttered toast. Tinned 
 lobster will answer if it is laid on a platter to air for an hour 
 before using. 
 
 Lobster, Maryland Style. 
 
 Cut cooked lobsters in slices one-quarter inch in thickness, 
 saute in fresh butter, moisten with cream, let simmer for a few 
 minutes and before serving thicken the lobster with cooked 
 yolks of eggs, crushed with double the amount of butter, then 
 press through a fine sieve, seasoning with red and white pep- 
 per, and add a little good sherry. 
 
 Deviled Lobster. 
 
 Two cups finely diced lobster meat, salt and cayenne to taste, 
 yolks of four hard-boiled eggs, one tablespoon chopped parsley, 
 a speck of nutmeg, one cup of thick cream sauce. Add lobster, 
 eggs mashed fine, parsley and seasoning to the sauce while it is 
 hot. Fill the sections of lobster shell and dust with buttered 
 cracker crumbs. Brown in the hottest kind of an oven and 
 serve very hot. A tablespoon of Worcestershire or mushroom 
 catsup is an improvement for those who like it very highly sea- 
 Deviled Roasted Lobster. 
 
 Kill the lobster according to directions above; split in two 
 lengthwise and range it on a baking pan; season with salt 
 and cayenne and pour over some melted butter. Bake it in a 
 ii ii ulerateoven for twenty minutes, cover over with maitre d'hStel 
 butter containing plenty of diluted mustard. Serve on a very 
 hot dish, break the shells with pinchers made for this purpose, 
 and remove the meat, or serve the shells on the plates. 
 
 
/ 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 33 
 
 Soft Shell Crabs. 
 
 Lift each point of the back shell and remove the spongy 
 substance found beneath it, taking care to scrape and cutaway 
 every bit. Turn the crab on its back and remove the semi-cir- 
 cular piece of dark, soft shell called the "apron" or "flap" and 
 more of the same spongy substance lying under it. Wash in 
 cold water and dry carefully on a towel. Season with salt and 
 pepper, dip in egg and roll in crumbs. Fry about three minutes 
 in very hot fat, putting in only two at a time, as they should be 
 cold when prepared. Serve with Tartar sauce. 
 
 Thomas J. Murrey in his little bonk on "Oysters and Fish" 
 says they should be only seasoned with llour, but most people 
 enjoy the crisp and savory crumbs. 
 
 Broiled Crabs. 
 
 Prepare as above, but cook in a double broiler over clear, hot 
 coals 'or eight to ten minutes. Serve with melted butter and 
 lenum juice poured over. 
 
 Deviled Crabs, No. 1. 
 
 One dozen fresh crabs boiled and pickled: quarter of a pound 
 of fresh butter, one small teaspoon of mustard powder, cayenne 
 pepper and salt to taste. Put the meat into a bowl and mix 
 carefully with it an equal quantity of fine bread crumbs. 
 Work the butter to a light cream, mix the mustard well with 
 it, then stir in very carefully, a handful at a time, the mixed 
 crabs and crumbs. Season to taste with cayenne pepper and 
 salt, fill the crab shells with the mixture, sprinkle bread crumbs 
 over the tops, put three small pieces of butter upon the top of 
 each and brown them quickly in a hot oven. They will puff in 
 , baking and will be found very nice. 
 
 Deviled Crabs. No. 2. 
 
 Pick the meat from fifty boiled hard-shelled crabs, run it 
 lightlv through the fingers into a large bowl, picking out every 
 bit of shell. Add a half pint of Mayonaise and mix well. 
 Divide this mixture into one dozen shells, sprinkle buttered 
 cracker crumbs thickly over the top, put a dot of butter on each 
 and bake in a hot oven. 
 
 Baked Crabs. 
 
 After cleaning and seasoning dip them into melted butter 
 and sprinkle thickly with grated bread crumbs. Range on a 
 dripping-pan and set into an intensely hot oven for about five 
 minutes. Serve with horseradish cream sauce. 
 
 Oyster Crab. 
 
 This is a distinct species and its piquant flavor entitles it to 
 a high place in the regard of epicures. Lay a scant tablespoon 
 of them on a crisp leaf of lettuce, with a teaspoon of Mayon- 
 naise for a dainty morsel at a ladies' luncheon. 
 
 Crabs, St. Laurent. 
 
 The meat of half a dozen crabs cut fine. One pint of 
 bechamel sauce, half a glass of white wine, a pinch of cayenne, 
 half a teaspoon of salt and three tablespoons of Parmesan 
 cheese grated. Boil all together for ten minutes. Butter six 
 rounds of toast. Spread the crab evenly on each, set in a hot 
 t oven for five minutes and serve garnished with parsley. This 
 is nice to serve as a fish course between a vegetable soup, 
 and a plain roast. 
 
 Terrapin Stew (Baltimore Style.) 
 
 Boil the turtle forty-five minutes or until the head will pull 
 off easily. Remove the thin grey skin and under shell, cut out 
 the gall most carefully. Dice the whole remainder and put 
 into a stew pan holding not less than two quarts. 
 
 1 Add 2 ounces port wine. 
 
 1 teaspoon salt. 2 ounces sherry. 
 \ teaspoon cayenne. 6 ounces cream. 
 
 2 tablespoons Worcestershire. 
 
 I Dredge very well with flour and boil two minutes. Add one- 
 quarter pound butter and serve as soon as melted. 
 
 Snapping Turtle. 
 
 1 Snapping turtle was once peculiar to Philadelphia, but its 
 line excellence and greater abundance leads to its being 
 tften substituted for the expensive diamond-back. The coiri- 
 laon red-legs are also very good. 
 
 
 Green Turtle. 
 
 These sea-monsters vary in weight from 25 to 500 pounds and 
 in price from 30 to 50 cents per pound. They are so immense 
 that they can rarely be served in a private house unless, as 
 sometimes happens, a fish-monger can secure a few pounds 
 from some of his customers among the larger hotels. In thai 
 case simmer the meat lor twenty minutes in a strong tn 
 stock, well flavored with vegetables and herbs, allowing a pound 
 of meat to each quart of stock. Put shells and fins into another 
 quart of stock and simmer closely covered for an hour or till 
 the bones will slip easily. Remove the bones and cut. all the 
 meat in small squares. Mix the whole and add moreseasoning 
 if needed. Thicken three quarts of soup with four ounces of 
 flour browned in butter; boil half and skim well; add half a pint 
 of sherry wine, a gill of port wine, let it boil up once and serve 
 with slices of pared lemon on a plate. 
 
 Turtle Steaks. 
 
 Cut slices about one-half inch thick from what is known as 
 the "veal," the thick, fleshy portion of green turtle. Rub them 
 well with oil, lemon juice, pepper and a little salt, and let t 
 stand for at least an hour before cooking. Broil like steak, 
 cooking very thoroughly. 
 
 (A la Provencale). Tie four ounces of hard wood ashes in a 
 cloth and boil them in a quart of water fifteen minutes. Drop 
 into this water, while boilinghot, three dozen well-washed snails; 
 let them boil fifteen minutes; try one to see if it will slip from the 
 shell, if not boil a minute longer. Drain and take from the 
 shells. Put a tablespoon of oil in a sauce-pan on the stove and 
 when hot add six mushrooms cut fine, six stalks of parsley, three 
 shallots and one clove of garlic, all chopped fine; season with 
 salt, red pepper and a dust of nutmeg; sprinkle over one table- 
 spoon of flour, three gills of white wine, and as soon as the 
 sauce boils add the snails; as soon as it boils draw to one side 
 and thicken with three egg yolks beaten with one tablespoon 
 of milk. Put a little sauce in each shell, drop in a snail, a little 
 more sauce, cover with buttered crumbs, set in the oven for ten 
 minutes and serve hot,— Pierre Caron. 
 
 Mussels. 
 
 (A la Mariniere). Take three dozen mussels in their shells, 
 free them from dirt and weeds; steam them three or four min- 
 utes in a covered stew-pan, shaking them frequently. When 
 the shells open drain them and remove one shell, leaving the 
 mussel in the other. Serve with them the following sauce in a 
 bowl. Chop fine two shallots, put in a saucepan with one table- 
 spoon of vinegar, reduce one-half, add a teaspoon of chervil 
 and tarragon chopped fine; boil one minute, add one-half pint 
 of allemand sauce and a gill of sherry. 
 
 Shrimp. 
 
 Shrimps are caught in immense quantities along the sea- 
 shore from early spring till late autumn, but are chiefly used 
 for bait and for lunches for the parties of children who have 
 unlimited time to pick them from their paper-like shells. If 
 one can take the trouble to pick them out, they are really more 
 delicate in fiber and finer flavored than their larger cousins 
 from the Gulf. The dainty pink morsels make an appropriate 
 and appetizing garnish for boiled fish of all kinds, and added 
 to any sauce for fish they are more satisfactory than lobster, 
 whose coarser flavor often dominates the fish it'is intended to 
 complement. As a curry, or deviled, or salad, or in a bisque, 
 they are always good. They may be prepared by any of the 
 formulas already given for lobsters or crabs, remembering that 
 the seasoning should be less heavy as the flavor of shrimp is 
 more delicate. Tinned shrimps should always be rinsed in 
 lightly salted water and well drained and aired before they are 
 used. 
 
 Crawfish. 
 
 Crawfish are inhabitants of fresh water streams. They have 
 a striking resemblance to lobster in every respect, and are 
 largely used by caterers for garnishes, sauces, salads, etc. 
 Those that come from Milwaukee have a high reputation in 
 New York and other markets. 
 
 Crawfish Bordelaise. 
 
 For this dish either crawfish or fresh boiled lobster may be 
 used. Cut half a small carrot into bits and mince a small 
 onion fine, cooking bothfor a fewminutes in a spoon of butter. 
 Add a glass of red wine and then a pound and a half of craw- 
 fish or lobster meat, and half a piut of cream sauce, with a 
 very little nutmeg, a half teaspoon of salt and pinch of 
 cayenne pepper. Boil up once and serve very hot. — "The Epi- 
 cure." 
 
34 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 ENTREES. 
 
 "A maxim, too, that must not be forgot, 
 Whatever be your dinner, 'serve it hot,' 
 Your fine ragouts, like epigrams, require 
 A little salt— but to be full of fire." 
 
 Fillet of Beef. 
 
 — The Banquet, 
 
 When larded and roasted as given on page II, is frequently 
 served as an entree with a mushroom, Spanish, iinanciere or 
 Chateaubriand sauce poured around it. 
 
 Fillet of Beef a la Bearnaise. 
 
 Cut little steaks from the tenderloin, trim to uniform shape 
 and size, season rather more than for a plain steak and serve 
 with Bearnaise sauce. With a touch of onion flavor added and 
 Chateaubriand sauce, they are called Fillet Steaks a la 
 Chdteaubriand. 
 
 Grenadins of Fillet of Beef. 
 
 Cut slices as above, lard each on one side with strips of pork not 
 bigger than a match. Season with pepper, salt and soft butter 
 and lay on a rack in a dripping-pan. Roast in a fiercely hot 
 oven about eight minutes, basting once with two tablespoons 
 of madeira and three of glaze heated together. Range on a 
 hot dish and serve with mushroom sauce. 
 
 Little Fillets with Marrow. 
 
 Trim six small slices as before and saute for three minutes on 
 each side. Range on a hot dish, pour a pint of hot madeira 
 sauce over with six drops of tarragon vinegar and eighteen 
 round slices of marrow. Let boil once only, then pour the 
 sauce around the dish, dressing the marrow on top of the fillets 
 and serve. 
 
 Tenderloin Pique a la Sevignc. 
 
 Trim.lard and season a small fillet (four pounds is enough ) and 
 roast in a very hot oven about ten minutes; then set it aside to 
 cool and afterwards mask it with a chicken forcemeat; sprinkle 
 with fresh bread crumbs, baste with three tablespoons of fresh 
 butter and roast thirty-five minutes. Pour over one-half pint 
 madeira sauce and garnish with tiny patties filled with puree of 
 spinach highly seasoned with butter and meat glaze. 
 
 Fillet of Beef a la Chipolata. 
 
 No. 1. Take three pounds of fillet; the roll cut from a small 
 rib roast will do; rub with flour and brown all over on a brisk 
 fire in two ounces of butter; drain off the fat, add one pint beef 
 broth, one-half pint white wine, one ladle tomato sauce, one 
 tablespoon each carrot and onion, some parsley and one clove 
 of garlic. Cover and simmer for two hours or until tender; 
 drain and trim the beef, strain the gravy, take off the fat and 
 reduce with one-half pint Spanish sauce. Serve with Chipolata 
 garnish. 
 
 No. 2. Take the same amount of beef, trim and tie into 
 shape and steep it for two days in the following marinade: 
 One and a half cups claret, one-half cup water, one tablespoon 
 each chopped carrot and onion, twenty peppercorns and a bit 
 of bay leaf with one teaspoon salt. Boil for five minutes, cool 
 and pour over the beef. Drain dry, brown lightly and braise as 
 usual, forty-five minutes if it is the true fillet, two hours or 
 more if the rib roll is used. The braising stock may be used to 
 make a brown sauce for it. Serve with Chipolata garnish. 
 
 Beef Steak, Bohemian Sauce. 
 
 Trim, season and broil rather rare two porterhouse steaks; 
 put on hot platter with a little butter and serve Bohemian 
 sauce, p. 45, in a sauce bowl. 
 
 Beef steak seasoned, buttered, sprinkled with bread crumbs, 
 mixed with chopped olives and parsley, then broiled rare and 
 dressed with a maitre d'hotel sauce, mingled with two table- 
 spoons beef extract is called a la Soyer. 
 
 Peel two cucumbers, cut in four lengthwise; if overgrown 
 trim off the seeds, cut in slices; there should be one pint of this 
 and one pint sliced onion; blanch, drain and simmer till tender, 
 salt and cayenne to taste; drain and simmer till tender in one 
 pint good gravy and pour over broiled steak when ready to 
 serve; or pour the raw vegetables over a pan broiled steak as 
 soon as browned and simmer. This is an excellent dish for 
 every day use. If the vegetables, after being drained, are fried 
 a light brown in butter (a dust of sugar willhelp) then simmered 
 till tender in one cup poivrade sauce and served around two 
 good porterhouse steaks it will be an elegant entree known as 
 Steak a la Rosny. 
 
 Boiled Marrow Bones. 
 
 Tie up in a cloth eight marrow bones, neatly trimmed and of 
 about four inches long, boil an hour, remove the cloth and 
 serve them on toast, a doyly neatly arranged about each. — 
 Pierre Caron. 
 
 Broiled Marrow Bones. 
 
 Prepare as above, but take from the water in forty-five 
 minutes and set under a gas broiler to finish, turning so that 
 the ends may brown. By rapping smartly on the side of the 
 bone the marrow may be shaken out on the toast, where it 
 should be well sprinkled with salt and cayenne and set into a 
 hot oven for two minutes before serving, 
 
 Roasted Marrow Bones. 
 
 Parboil as before, taking up when about half done; seal the 
 ends with a stiff paste made with flour and water and bake in a 
 very hot oven from thirty to forty minutes. Serve on toast 
 that has been moistened with Tartar sauce. Wrap each one in 
 a thickly folded doyly and there must be narrow spoons with 
 long handles to scoop it from the bone. It is a pity that this 
 delicious and wholesome dish is not more frequently seen on 
 our tables. Marrow Toagt> 
 
 Cut thin and parboil one-half pound of beef marrow. Spread 
 it on toast and cook five minutes in a brisk oven. Serve plain 
 or with Spanish sauce. 
 
 South Carolina Rice Pie. 
 
 Take one quart cold cooked meat, if beef or veal allow one- 
 fourth fat, if mutton trim away all fat and substitute two 
 ounces butter; the meat should be cut in shavings and lightly 
 measured. Chop fine one medium sized onion, one large Irish 
 potato, one ounce fat salt pork, blanch, drain and fry gently to 
 a light yellow, put in the meat, with salt and pepper and sweet 
 herbs or spice to taste, let it heat through, stirring carefully, 
 if the meat was tough in the first case add one pint stock and 
 simmer till tender. Meanwhile cook one cup good rice — p. 53 
 — season it with one cup stewed and strained tomato, one ounce 
 of butter and two hard boiled eggs sliced; turn the hashed 
 meat into a buttered baking dish, place the rice over; handle 
 carefully so as not to crush the rice or break up the egg-, cut 
 two more eggs in four slices each and press them into the rice 
 on top; put a bean of butter on each and set in a moderate 
 oven for one-half hour. Fold a napkin around the dish if not 
 a regular baker. Do not let the meat get too dry ; if it did not 
 need the simmering add cold gravy, freed from all fat, and 
 water enough to moisten well. "A thorough southern dish, 
 and a great favorite in our rice country." Make chicken and 
 rice pie in the same way, but leave out the potato; one cup rich 
 milk may be substituted for the tomato.— Mrs. W. P. Fergu- 
 son, Columbia, S. C. 
 
 Baltimore Meat Pie. 
 
 Pare three pints of potatoes, cover them with hot water and 
 let them simmer till clone. Mash them and add a little cream 
 and salt. Spread in the style of a paste in a dish. Place on 
 thin slices of underdone meat, either beef, mutton, veal or 
 chicken. Lay them in thickly, pour over them some gravy and 
 a wineglass of catsup. Then cover thick with mashed potatoes 
 and bake moderately about fifty minutes. 
 
 Hash. 
 
 "A good hash has merits unknown to the meat in its first 
 cooking. Mind you, I say a good one. It must be scientifically 
 constructed. There must be a spark of genius, but no reckless- 
 ness, which is counted to go with genius. On the contrary, 
 true genius is half patience, and that counts in hash or any- 
 thing else." The best meat for a hash is from a stew or the 
 sides of a la mode beef, though corned beef is excellent and 
 any scraps of cold meat can be used if care be taken to first 
 simmer till tender all tough bits. Mince evenly, but not too 
 line, allowing about one-quarter fat meat; add an equal bulk of 
 chopped potatoes, freshly cooked are best, but cold ones will 
 do, if more convenient. Mix well together and season with 
 salt and pepper. Put into a sautoir one cup of stock or beef 
 or veal gravy, adding enough hot water to make one cup for 
 each pint of meat and potato, one teaspoon butter and the 
 meat as soon as the stock boils. Stir only enough to mix well, 
 then let stand on a moderately hot fire till a brown crust has 
 formed on the bottom. Fold over and turn out like an 
 omelet and serve hot. A tepid hash is an abomination. 
 
 Baked Hash. 
 
 Prepare like either of the proceeding, adding more season- 
 ing, onion, catsup, Worcestershire sauce, etc., and one raw egg. 
 Pack into a well-buttered baking dish and bake till hot through 
 and well-browned. Serve in the dish in which it was baked. 
 
WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 35 
 
 Hash, (English Style.) 
 
 Chop the meat rather coarsely, season with onion and catsup, 
 salt and pepper, and simmer a few minutes in a good gravy. 
 Serve on toast or in a deep platter garnishing with toast. 
 
 Mutton and Veal Hashes. 
 
 Mutton and veal hashes are much improved by the addition 
 of curry, a few oysters or even a half cup of oyster liquor left 
 from some other dish. 
 
 Beef Rolls or Olives, No. 1. 
 
 One and a half pounds of round steak cut in quarter inch 
 slices, trim into six pieces about three by four inches; pound 
 carefully not to make holes in them. Cover with the follow- 
 ing stuffing: Chop two ounces beef suet very line and then 
 the trimmings of the beef, there should be about eight ounces 
 or one cup when done; mix well with one cup or four ounces 
 stale bread grated, season with one teaspoon salt, one saltspoon 
 pepper, a speck of nutmeg and two or three grates of lemon 
 peel; moisten with one beaten egg; it may need a spoonful or 
 so of stock. Divide this into six portions, form them into 
 rolls and wrap each one in a piece of the beef; make a half 
 dozen turns of soft twine or cotton yarn about the rolls, but do 
 not draw it tight enough to mark them; do not trouble to tie, 
 just twist the ends of the string with wet fingers. Place these 
 rolls in a stewpan with one pint brown sauce and stew gently 
 for three quarters of an hour. Serve with potato baked or 
 fried in rather thick slices. 
 
 Westphalia Loaves. 
 
 Mix a quarter of a pound of grated ham with one pound of 
 mashed potatoes well beaten until quite light and add a little 
 butter, cream and two eggs, but do not get too moist. Make 
 into small ball and fry with a little lard to a light brown. 
 Serve with a brown, thick gravy. Garnish with fried parsley. 
 Use more ham if liked, or add chopped parsley. 
 
 Ragout of Mutton. 
 
 Slice thinly two small turnips and two onions, brown them 
 with two ounces butter or dripping, dredging in a tablespoon 
 of Hour, a teaspoon of sugar, and stirring to get an even brown. 
 Cut six small but rather thick chops from a cooked loin or neck 
 or cut square pieces from a breast of mutton that has been 
 boiled, and pressed till cold; roll them in seasoned flour, skim 
 out the vegetables and brown the meat in the same fat. Re- 
 turn the vegetables to the pan, add one half pint stock, season 
 to taste, cover closely and simmer till tender. This ragout 
 may be made with green peas in season; and they should al- 
 ways be used for a Lamb Ragout. 
 
 Ox-Palates, 
 
 Be sure that they are delivered as fresh as possible as they 
 soon acquire a disagreeable flavor. Soak and wash in several 
 waters, then boil five minutes, cool, drain and scrape off the 
 white horny skin. Cut six of them in halves and cook gently 
 for two hours, or till tender, in two quarts of white broth with 
 a piece of salt pork skin or a bone of ham or bacon, a bunch 
 of parsley and a small onion stuck with three cloves. Drain, 
 trim all to the same shape and they are ready to serve plain or 
 as a basis for several more elaborate dishes as follows: 
 
 Breaded. 
 
 Marinate the cooked palates over night in lemon-juice, salad 
 oil, pepper and salt well rubbed in. Dry in a soft cloth, bread 
 and fry like croquettes. Serve with tomato sauce. 
 
 Broiled, 
 
 Cut in pretty strips for serving; season with salt, pepper and 
 tarragon vinegar, and dip first in melted butter, then in fine 
 bread crumbs. Broil a delicate brown over very hot coals. 
 Serve with mushroom sauce. 
 
 Curried. 
 
 Cut in triangles and follow directions for white curry of 
 chicken. 
 
 A la Financiefe. 
 
 Spread each split with a thin layer of quenelle meat (veal will 
 do) adding a dust of tine herbs. Roll each one tightly in but- 
 tered paper and place in a sautoir, cover with well seasoned 
 stock and simmer twenty minutes. Lift from the papers and 
 cover closely while reducing the stock to a demi-glaze. Roll 
 each piece in it and range against a mound of broiled mush- 
 rooms or a mixture of sweetbreads, truffles, mushrooms, olives, 
 quenelles and chicken livers, known as Financieie ragout; in 
 either case serve with Financieie sauce. 
 
 Au Gratin. 
 Beat up the yolks of two eggs well and mix them with one- 
 half a pepperspoon of mace, a little salt and pepper, one minced 
 shallot, a sprig of parsley, three button mushrooms chopped 
 line and a slice of bam scraped to a pulp. Spread this f 01 
 meat over three palates prepared and split as before, fold to- 
 gether and fasten with a bird skewer. Cover with well but- 
 tered and seasoned bread crumbs and bake in a moderateh 
 oven half an hour, basting with butter and hot water. Serve 
 with plain tomato sauce. 
 
 Fricandcau of Veal with Sorrel. 
 
 Cut a thick slice of three pounds from the upper side of a 
 leg of veal, remove sinews and lard with a medium sized 
 needle. Place it in a sautoir in which there are already a half 
 dozen two inch square pieces of pork skin, fat side down, one 
 tablespoon each chopped onion and carrot and a bunch of 
 sweet herbs. Season with a scant tablespoon salt, cover with a 
 buttered paper and let it color slightly. Add a half pint white 
 broth and cook one hour in the oven, basting five times. The 
 French cooks often use one-half pint puree of sorrel; but it is 
 rarely seeii in American markets; perhaps the best way to bring 
 it is to ask frequently for it, its mild acid makes it most appro- 
 priate for veal; a good substitute is spinach served with slices 
 of lemon. 
 
 Grenadins of Veal, 
 
 Cut into six pieces two pounds of lean veal from the leg, 
 pull out the sinews and set seven tiny lardoons in three rows 
 on each slice. Fry some bits of salt pork until there are three 
 tablespoons of fat in the pan, cook to a pale yellow one small 
 onion sliced, brown the grenadins for six minutes. Season 
 with a scant tablespoon salt and one gill of white broth. Set 
 the sautoir in the oven and cover with a buttered paper. Cook 
 thirty minutes or less if they take a good color. Put a half 
 pint puree of green peas on the dish, lay the grenadins on top 
 and strain the gravy over all. The Chipolata garnish may be 
 used with this dish and gives it its name, or bouchees filled 
 with Spinach au jus, when they are called Grenadins a la Sevigne 
 
 Veal Cutlets Broiled. 
 
 Cut six even cutlets from a loin, flatten lightly, season with 
 pepper, salt and one tablespoon salad oil, turning them several 
 times. Broil over a rather slow fire eight minutes for each 
 side, place on a hot dish, spread with one ounce rnaitre d hotel 
 butter and serve at once. 
 
 Veal cutlets pan broiled and served with some kind of sauce 
 or garnish are known in French cookery as escalops. Small, 
 even slices should be cut not more than one-half inch thick; 
 they may be treated according to taste and the other parts of 
 the"bill of fare: lightly seasoned and served with a plain sauce 
 or some bland puree like spinach, chicory or cucumber, or 
 highly seasoned with onion, shallot, garlic, (not all at once) or 
 mushrooms. Finish with Spanish or some high flavored brown 
 sauce and garnish with stuffed peppers or something piquant. 
 
 Veal Cutlets. 
 
 Take two pounds veal ; the small pieces cut from the rum p bone 
 are good where slices cannot be had. Chop several times in 
 a machine; add two ounces of raw, finely chopped veal suet; 
 season with one tablespoon salt, one-half teaspoon pepper and 
 one fourth teaspoon nutmeg; mix well with one half cup good 
 cream, one chopped shallot and two raw eggs. Shape in six 
 pieces like chops. Sprinkle with bread crumbs and saute in 
 two ounces butter, four minutes on each side; the fire should 
 be quick enough to brown well, but not scorch. Serve with a 
 gill of any kind of sauce. 
 
 Veal Cutlets a la Milanaise. 
 
 Trim six veal cutlets, season with salt and pepper, dip in egg 
 diluted with one tablespoon salad oil, drain, dip in grated Par- 
 mesan and then in fresh bread crumbs; flatten them and saute 
 in six ounce:, of clarified butter, giving them five minutes on 
 each side. Serve with one cup garnishing Milauaise. 
 
 Veal Cutlets with Tomato Sauce. 
 
 Prepare six cutlets as in the preceding, but leave out the 
 cheese ; cook as described and serve with a half pint tomato 
 sauce. 
 
 Calf's Brain Breaded. 
 
 Separate the two lobes of the brain with a knife, soak them 
 in cold water with a little salt for one hour; then pour away 
 water and cover with hot water, clean and skin them; then dip 
 in egg and milk, roll in bread crumbs and fry slowly in deep hot 
 fat; serve tomato sauce with it. 
 
36 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 Brains au Beurre Noir. 
 
 Prepare as for frying. Lay them on a hot platter and pour 
 over them black butter sauce, p. 45, 
 
 Ragout of 31utton. 
 
 Cut into dice one pint of cold roasted or boiled mutton. If 
 boiled, dredge it with flour and brown in butter. Add one 
 small onion cut fine, half a cup of diced turnip, and one-fourth 
 cup of grated carrot. Salt and pepper to taste. Cover with 
 boiling water and simmer till tender. Put the bones and 
 trimming into another stew-pan, cover with cold water, and 
 let them simmer until the liquor is reduced one-half. Then 
 strain it and add the liquor to the ragout. When the meat is 
 tender remove the fat, add a tablespoon of brown roux and a 
 teaspoon of Worcestershire sauce or two tablespoons of wine 
 or half a cup of currant jelly. 
 
 Cutlets Served in Paper. 
 
 Fold and cut half-sheets of thick white paper, about the size 
 of commercial note, so that when opened they will be heart- 
 shaped. Dip them in melted butter, and set aside. After trim- 
 ming all the fat from lamb or mutton chops, season them with 
 pepper and salt. Put three table-spoons of butter in the 
 frying-pan, and when melted, lay in the chops, and cook slowly 
 for fifteen minutes. Add one teaspoon of finely chopped 
 parsley, one teaspoon of lemon juice, and one table-spoon 
 of Halford sauce. Dredge with one heaping table-spoon of 
 flour, and cook quickly five minutes longer. Take up the cut- 
 lets, and add to the sauce in the pan four table-spoons of 
 glaze and four of water. Stir until the glaze is melted and set 
 away to cool. When the sauce is cold, spread it on the cutlets. 
 Now place these, one by one, on one side of the papers, having 
 the bones turned toward the centre. Fold the papers and care- 
 fully turn in the edges. When all are done, place them in a 
 pan, and put into a moderate oven for ten minutes; then place 
 them in a circle, and fill the centre of the dish with thin fried, 
 or French fried potatoes. Serve very hot. The quantities given 
 above are for six cutlets. 
 
 Chicken a la Hollandaise. 
 
 Take out the breast bone of a large young fowl, and fill up 
 the space with a force meat of pati de foie gras. Make a bat- 
 ter as for fritters, and when the fowl has roasted half its time 
 pour the batter over, and, when dry, pour more, until it is 
 thickly coated and of a nice brown color. Cut up into neat 
 pieces as for fricassee, and serve with melted butter and lemon 
 quarters. 
 
 Chicken Shortcake. 
 
 Make one-half the rule for biscuit (see p. 58), but add one 
 large teaspoon butter or mix with creamy milk, roll to fit an 
 eight inch cake tin and bake in a quick oven. When done 
 pull, not cut, it apart, and fill with one pint of creamed chicken. 
 
 Stuffed Chicken Legs (Cantons de Rouen). 
 
 After removing the fillets from chickens, the legs may be 
 removed, leaving on them as much of the skin as is convenient. 
 Bone them carefully and fill them with any good stuffing or 
 force meat that is convenient. Wrap the' extra breadth of 
 skin about them and, after trimming into compact shape, sew 
 the edges with a few deep stitches. Lay them on a bed of 
 vegetables in a small braising pan to cook for one hour. Mean- 
 time simmer the bones and trimmings of the carcasses to 
 make one and one-half pints stock. Finish the chickens with 
 the cover removed to brown them well, and send to the table 
 with a white Bechamel sauce. 
 
 Chaud-Froid of Chicken. 
 
 Cut a cold boiled chicken carefully into smooth joints, 
 removing the skin. Mask each piece with Bechamel sauce, 
 and arrange in a ring on a bed of lettuce. Mix sliced cucum- 
 ber, diced beets and chopped tarragon with the heart-leaves of 
 the lettuce and heap them in the center. Served either with or 
 without mayonnaise. 
 
 Chicken Terrapin. 
 
 Put in the chafing-dish the dark meat of cold chicken, tur- 
 key or grouse, cut in small slices with half a pint of cream or 
 stock; and when it comes to- a boil stir in the following mix- 
 ture: two tablespoons of butter rubbed into a smooth paste 
 with a tablespoon of flour and the yolk of three eggs, a tea- 
 spoon of dry mustard, a little cayenne pepper and salt, all 
 mixed with a little cream or stock. Let it simmer a few min- 
 utes (not boil) and when ready to serve stir in a large wineglass 
 of Madeira. 
 
 Chicken Souffle. 
 
 One pint of cold chicken chopped very fine. Melt one table- 
 spoon of butter in a saucepan, and add one of flour and gradually 
 a pint of hot milk or stock, stirring to smooth cream. Add 
 to this a teaspoon of chopped parsley, half a cup of bread 
 crumbs, a pinch of pepper, a teaspoon of salt, and the chicken, 
 with the yolks of four eggs. Last, add the whites beaten to a 
 stiff froth and turn into a buttered dish. Bake in a quick 
 oven half an hour and serve at once. 
 
 Coquilles of Chicken, English Fashion. 
 
 Fill six table-shells with a thick salpicon of chicken, mush- 
 rooms and truffies. Sprinkle the tops with grated bread crumbs 
 well buttered. Bake a handsome brown in a very hot oyen. 
 Serve on a folded napkin. 
 
 Chicken Curry. 
 
 Prepare a three or four pound chicken as for fricassee (see 
 page 23). Brown lightly in butter and move to a stewpan. Fry 
 a thinly-sliced onion in the same pan and make a roux with one 
 large tablespoon flour, one teaspoon sugar and one teaspoon 
 curry powder (more if it is liked very hot) and one pint water. 
 Add one-half cup chopped sour apple, salt and pepper; pour 
 this sauce over the chicken arid simmer till tender. Add one 
 cup of hot cream. Serve with boiled rice. (See page 53.) 
 
 Indian Curry. 
 
 Proceed as before and when the chicken is browned mix dry 
 one teaspoon sugar and one of curry powder, one tablespoon 
 flour and sift over the meat. Stir till the meat is thoroughly 
 coated with the powder; add two or three sour apples cut in 
 eighths but neither cored nor peeled, the juice of one-half 
 lemon and two ounces of raisins; add one pint hot water, cover 
 closely and simmer one hour. More curry and lemon may be 
 used if liked, salt to taste. — Mrs. James Farish, Tar- 
 mouth, N. 8. 
 
 White Curry. 
 
 One fowl, one onion, two tablespoons butter, two tablespoons 
 curry powder, two ounces sweet almonds, one-half teaspoon 
 salt, one-half tablespoon lemon juice, one-half pint water. 
 Cook the sliced onion in the butter till soft, but do not brown. 
 Then add the fowl cut in very small pieces ready for serving. 
 Sprinkle over the curry powder (most people would prefer half 
 the quantity) and stir over the fire for five minutes. Blanch 
 the almonds and pound them with a little water. (See page 52 ) 
 When they are quite fine, put the remainder of the water to 
 them and grind them well. Strain this through a strong strainer 
 cloth, pressing hard. It should, come through looking like milk. 
 Add this with salt to the fowl and simmer till tender; put in 
 lemon juice just before serving. This is excellent made with 
 veal. Grated cocoanut may take the place of almonds. Serve 
 with rice. An "Ida" grater is better than pounding for 
 almonds, cocoanut, etc. 
 
 Kebob Curry. 
 
 Two pounds of tender beef, mutton or veal cut in slices one- 
 half inch thick and again one and a half inch square. Peel and 
 slice thickly two or three onions and three pieces of green gin- 
 ger; arrange them on skewers, putting two bits of meat, one 
 of ginger, one of onion, and repeat until all are used; brown in 
 two ounces of butter, sprinkle over two tablespoons curry pow- 
 der (one is enough for most people), cook gently and stir for 
 five minutes, add one-half pint stock, salt if needed. Simmer, 
 closely covered, until tender, from forty-five minutes to an hour 
 and a half; just before serving add the juice of one-half lemon. 
 This is quite enough for ten people. 
 
 Dry Curry. 
 
 Proceed as before, leaving out the skewers, the ginger and 
 half the lemon; brown the meat in the butter and sprinkle the 
 curry; stir over the fire five minutes, add two tablespoons 
 chopped gherkins, one dessert spoon Chutney; cover closely 
 and cook on a very slow fire; add lemon just before serving. 
 Serve with soft boiled rice: one cup rice to three of water, with 
 one teaspoon salt; boil fast for fifteen minutes, then set back 
 and watch it; lift often with fork to make sure it does not 
 stick. Pile high in the middle of platter and serve the curry 
 as a border. Fish may be treated in the same way, but needs 
 less cooking— fifteen to thirty minutes, according to the kind of 
 fish. 
 
WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 37 
 
 Turkey Wings with Chestnut Puree. 
 
 Take out the two main bones from eight wings, stuff them 
 with a pound of forcemeat made with lean ana fat pork in 
 equal quantity and well seasoned with salt and pepper. Put 
 them in a buttered stew pan with a little parsley, a quart of 
 white broth aDd three thin slices of fat pork, cover and cook 
 gently for ail hour; drain and press between two sheets with 
 a light weight on top; strain and free the gravy from fat, 
 reduce to a demi-glaze with a gill of Spanish sauce, trim the 
 wings neatly and put them in the sauce. They are better to 
 stand a half hour or more, but should be covered and not 
 allowed to boil. At serving time, spread a pint of chestnut 
 puree in an entree dish, arrange the wings in a circle, alternat- 
 ing with two inch croutons of fried white bread; rill the center 
 with more puree, pour the sauce over all and serve. — D&liie. 
 
 Turkey Giblets, with Turnips. 
 
 Take the giblets— necks, pinions, gizzards and hearts of two 
 turkeys; reserve the livers for other use; cleanse, soak an hour 
 in salted water, wipe them dry, cut in morsels and put in a 
 stew pan with two ounces of butter and four ounces of salt 
 pork diced; fry a little, add the giblets, stir, and fry again until 
 well browned; sprinkle over two tablespoons flour, mix well, 
 dilute with one pint of thin stock and stir until blended. 
 Season with salt, pepper, a few sprigs of parsley and a slip of 
 lemon peel. When it boils set back to simmer until nearly 
 done, then add the sliced livers and turnips. Take four turnips 
 of a size that when pared and quartered the pieces will be 
 the size of an egg. Parboil ten minutes, drain, dry, brown 
 quickly in butter in a large frying pan with a teaspoon of 
 sugar sprinkled over; cook slowly with the giblets for fifteen 
 minutes, then let them stand covered for the sauce to season 
 the turnips; skim off the fat, take out the parsley, dish the 
 giblets in a mound with the turnips for a border, pour the 
 sauce over and serve. — BiliU. 
 
 Rissoles. 
 
 Any kind of delicate meat or fish may be used for them 
 with puff paste. Careme recommends Brioche paste. It may 
 well be used, if at hand, or a little might be laid aside for this 
 purpose when it is baked, but it takes so long to prepare that 
 it is hardly worth while unless one requires a great number of 
 Rissoles. When oysters are used they must first be treated as 
 directed, see p. 31. With care in preparation and skill in flavor- 
 ing a great variety of appetizing dainties may be made from 
 remnants of pastry and game. For an illustration take Chicken 
 Rissoles. 
 
 One cup cold chicken (roast is best) cut in small dice, two 
 tablespoons minced fresh mushrooms; make a white sauce 
 with one-half cup milk, one tablespoon flour and two of butter; 
 season with a scant teaspoon of salt and one pepper-spoon 
 pepper, add the meat and mushroom, let it cook one minute 
 and set away to cool. Take one-fourth the rule for puff paste 
 (see p. 62), roll one-eighth inch thick and cut twelve four-inch 
 rounds; divide the chicken paste into twelve parts and put one 
 on each round of paste a little to one side of the center, flatten 
 it slightly, wet the rim of paste a little way from the edge 
 with white of egg, fold the paste over and press together along 
 the line of egg; add another egg to the one from which you 
 used and beat with one tablespoon of milk. Dip the rissoles 
 in this, taking care not to handle the edges nor to separate the 
 cover. Drain them and cook in hot fat till a golden brown. 
 The fat should be hotter than for doughnuts, but not so hot as 
 for croquettes. Dry on paper and serve at once. This gives 
 two for each of the six persons at lunch, but in a course dinner 
 one is quite enough for each person. 
 
 Bouchees. 
 
 Are made small, about one and one-half inches in diameter 
 and very deep; they are served hot, filled with very highly sea- 
 soned meat or shell-fish, dressed with mayonnaise or sauce tar- 
 tare. The tilling may be either hot or cold. These are most 
 frequently filled with a salpicon— a "mixture of poultry, game, 
 fish, forcemeat, sweetbreads, ham, tongue, or foie gras together 
 with mushrooms, truffles, etc. The various materials should 
 be cooked separately, cut into dice, and heated in thick, brown 
 or w r hite sauce, whichever is most convenient."— Cosset's Dic- 
 tionary of Cooker >j. 
 
 Aspic Jelly, No. 1. 
 
 To three pints of clear, strong consomme 5 , add two ounces 
 gelatine previously soaked in cold water, and the whites and 
 shells of two eggs; whisk well together, adding more seasoning 
 if needed, and one gill of light wine, or enough lemon juice or 
 tarragon vinegar to make a pleasant flavor. Clear according to 
 directions for clear soup, page 6. It is then ready for use in 
 any way required. 
 
 Aspic Jelly, No. 2. (Without meat.) 
 
 H pints of water. 1 each carrot, turnip, onion. 
 
 1 gill sherry. 1 stalk celery. 
 
 2 tablespoons each malt, tarra- J teaspoon salt. 
 
 gon and chilli vinegar. Chervil and parsley if at hand. 
 
 The rind of J4 a lemon. 2 ounces gelatine. 
 
 The white and shell of 2 eggs. 10 peppercorns or 1 inch chilli. 
 Put all the ingredients except the gelatine and egg into a 
 stew-pan and set over the fire till it boils, then pour it on the 
 gelatine previously soaked in cold water, whisk in the egg and 
 let come to the boil again; draw to one side of the fire to stand 
 a few minutes and filter through a thick napkin. It is ready 
 for use as soon as set. 
 
 Matelote Nornuinde. 
 
 Melt butter and add minced parsley and then the fish. Pour 
 over it cider champagne and when nearly done adil a 
 dozen or more oysters, as many clams and a few shrimp if you 
 have them; then let the whole thing simmer until done.— Mrs. 
 Bayard Taylor. 
 
 Souffle' of Smoked Whitefish. 
 
 Shred one cup fish and mix lightly with one pint mashed 
 potato; adding more seasoning if needed with two tablespoons 
 cream or milk. Separate yolks and whites of two eggs, beat 
 each very light and fold carefully through the whole. Bake in a 
 quick oven till a handsome brown. Serve at once. 
 
 Aspic of Chicken. 
 
 Once the rule for Aspic Jelly. 
 1 hard boiled egg. 1} pints very tender cold 
 
 3 slices cooked beet. chicken. 
 
 3 slices cooked carrot. J pint cooked vegetables. 
 
 i pint mayonnaise. | bunch celery. 
 
 Einse a three pint border mold in cold water and pour in 
 semi-congealed aspic to cover the bottom, set in ice water to 
 become firm, and as soon as they can be laid on without sinking 
 garnish with the prepared vegetables, bits of parsley and egg. 
 Pour on more of the jelly and harden again. Sprinkle the bits 
 of meat well with salt, pepper and celery salt and mix with 
 them some of the cool aspic. As soon as the vegetables are 
 firmly bedded in their layer fill the mold nearly to the top with 
 the chicken, pour over more liquid aspic to make sure that every 
 crevice is filled, and set to cool again. Lastly fill brim full with 
 aspic and set on ice for ten or twelve hours. At serving time 
 turn on a flat dish, fill the center with the celery finely shaved 
 and dressed with the mayonnaise. Garnish with delicate celery 
 leaves, laying a star of red beet on each. 
 
 Patty Cases. 
 
 Make either of the rules for puff paste; it will be sufficient 
 for twelve large cases or twenty small ones. To shape the paste 
 for patties, roll to about one-third inch in thickness and stamp 
 ! out with a two and one-quarter inch cutter twice as many pieces 
 as you wish shells. Cut centers from one-half of them, leaving 
 the rim about one-half inch wide. Lay these rings on the whole 
 rounds pressing them down that they may stick together. In 
 very cold weather it may be needful to wet the top of the large 
 rounds near the edge to make sure that the rings shall not slip. 
 To make very deep shells roll the paste about one-eighth inch 
 thick and lay on two rings, or even three, but they are trouble- 
 some to bake as they are apt to slip to one side. 
 
 Patty shells should rise in ten minutes and then take about 
 twenty minutes longer to bake through and brown. There will 
 usually be a little soft dough in the center that should be picked 
 out with a fork, taking great care not to break through the side 
 or bottom crust. Large Vol au Vent cases should be rolled to 
 the thickness of an inch and one-half, and they may be round 
 or oval in shape. Mark out an inner line about two and one- 
 half inches from the edge, and with a thin, sharp knife-blade 
 (dipped first in hot water) cut from two-thirds to three-quarters 
 of the way through the paste. These are much more difficult 
 to bake than the smaller shells and there is alwavs much un- 
 cooked paste to be removed from the center. 
 
 The filling gives the name to the dish, and their names are 
 legion. Any kind of delicate meat, game, fish or shell-fish may 
 be used in connection with velvet, poulette, Bechamel, or 
 supreme sauce, or for game and other dark meats a brown, 
 mushroom, Boidelaise or Spanish sauce at pleasure. 
 
< \ 
 
 38 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 Brandade. 
 
 Take two pounds of thick, salt codfish, pull off the skin, cut 
 the fish in a half dozen pieces and soak in cold water for 
 twenty-four hours, if very salt change the water twice. 
 Put in cold water and cook until hot but not boiling 
 twenty minutes; drain, take out the bones and crumble 
 thoroughly. Put in a sauce-pan on the end of the stove 
 and beat with a wooden spoon, adding very gradually 
 the juice of one-half lemon and one-half pint salad oil; beat 
 vigorously all the time; taste it for salt and pepper, add a little 
 milk if the mixture is too thick; it should be creamy and rather 
 consistent; finish with a tablespoon of oil in which have been 
 fried a little garlic and chopped parsley. Heap in a vegetable 
 dish and set three heart-shaped, two-inch croutons of fried 
 Boston brown bread on each side. 
 
 Casserole of Game. 
 
 Line a casserole pan with cold butter, then with macaroni, 
 cooked tender in boiling salted water. Fill it three-fourths 
 full with a salmis of duck, rabbit, squirrel, or the remains of a 
 game dinner. Cut all the meat from the bones in handsome 
 pieces and set one side; boil the bones and chips in three pints of 
 water and use it for stock to make a brown gravy ; season to 
 taste; add the bits of meat and pour into the mould, and cover 
 with remainder of macaroni; steam forty-five minutes and turn 
 out on a platter. Serve with a part of the brown gravy that 
 has been reserved. This is excellent seasoned with curry. 
 
 Ballotin of Squab. 
 
 Bone six tender squabs leaving on one leg; stuff with a good 
 chicken forcemeat (see below) drawing the other leg and the 
 wings inside and shaping into a smooth round with the one leg- 
 set up nearly straight; place them in a buttered sautoire, sea- 
 son with salt and pepper, cover with a buttered paper. Put in 
 a hot oven for fifteen minutes and serve laid in a circle on a 
 half pint of Italian sauce. Set a paper ru file on each leg. These 
 are excellent served cold for a hot day's dinner, or for a lunch 
 basket. 
 
 Ravioli. 
 
 Prepare chicken forcemeat precisely as for chicken cro- 
 quettes. Have ready two sheets of noodle- paste. See p. 9 
 Lay one sheet of the paste on the table, and place the little 
 forcemeat balls on it, about an inch and a half apart. With 
 your finger or a delicate brush moisten with water the spaces 
 between the balls, and lay the top sheet of the paste over them. 
 Now take a little paste wheel — or knife if you have nothing 
 better — and separate by cutting each of the ravioli. They ap- 
 pear like very little patties. Throw them into hard boiling 
 salted water, and let them boil briskly twenty minutes without 
 once removing the lid while they are boiling. Unless they are 
 kept entirely closed while boiling the paste will be tough. 
 
 As these ravioli are of themselves so rich, I usually pour over 
 them stewed tomatoes, strained, and cover with grated Parme- 
 san cheese. I have seen them served with Italian or Spanish 
 or other rich sauces. But it has always appeared proper to me, 
 not to have a rich sauce for ravioli. — Mrs. Daniels. 
 
 Ravioli — Sardinian. 
 
 Pick and parboil enough spinach to make a pint when boiled, 
 press the water out, chop fine, put in a sauce pan with one 
 ounce of butter and stir on the fire until nearly dry; add salt, 
 pepper, nutmeg, a heaping tablespoon of fresh crumbs, two 
 ounces parmesan, grated, one-half cup cream and three egg 
 yolks; beat well on the fire for two minutes; cool, and treat as 
 in No. 1. This should make two dozen. Serve in a buttered 
 dish. Put a half dozen at the bottom, sprinkle with cheese and 
 cover with tomato sauce. Use all the ravioli in this way and 
 finish with cheese. Pour over two ounces very hot clarified 
 butter and serve. 
 
 Fillet of Flounders a la Joinville. 
 
 Skin two flounders and cut the flesh from the bones with a 
 sharp knife. There will be eight fillets, which must be rolled 
 into eight little turbans and each fastened with a wooden tooth- 
 pick. Put into the dish one ounce of butter and when it bubbles 
 add the fish. Cover closely and let them simmer a few minutes; 
 then add a small glass of cider champagne, one small onion, 
 a little lemon juice, three peppercorns and a pinch of salt, and 
 simmer again till done. Remove the fish, thicken the juice 
 with one ounce of butter well rubbed with one tablespoon flour 
 and strain it over the fillets. A very nice addition is to have 
 some oysters cooked in their own juice with which to trim the 
 fillets. 
 
 Slice of Salmon Baked. 
 
 Take two slices about three-quarters of a pound each. Rub 
 both sides with this seasoning: two tablespoons oil, one table- 
 spoon chopped gherkin, one shallot chopped, one anchovy 
 chopped and rubbed smooth, one teaspoon chopped parsley, 
 half a teaspoon of chilli vinegar. Wrap the salmon in a 
 buttered paper and bake about half an hour. Serve in the 
 paper. 
 
 Whitebait. 
 
 Is in season only during the early months of summer, and is 
 so exceedingly delicate that it must be eaten as soon as possible 
 after catching. Drain them carefully on a soft cloth and shake 
 
 FORCEMEAT 
 
 Is used so extensively in the making of garnishes and entrees 
 that a cook should understand the principles of its preparation 
 thoroughly. The finest kinds of forcemeat consist of raw 
 meat or fish, a panada, either butter, suet or veal udder, eggs 
 and seasoning. To prepare the meat or fish, take only clear 
 muscle, chop it fine and pound it to a paste. Then force it 
 through a wire puree sieve with a wooden vegetable-masher. 
 Panada is bread and cream or milk or stock, in the proportions 
 of half as much bread as liquid, cooked until a smooth paste is 
 formed. If beef suet is used it must be freed from strings, 
 chopped fine, and pounded with the bread. It is then rubbed 
 through the puree sieve. This is not as delicate as butter or 
 calf's udder and is not so often used, but is somewhat cheaper. 
 Forcemeat made in this way is called "godiveau." To prepare 
 calf's udder, tie it in a piece of netting and boil in the stock 
 pot for one hour; cool, chop and pound, and rub through a 
 pureesieve; then pound again in a mortar with the other ingre- 
 dients to make sure that it is perfectly blended. Always try 
 the mixture after it is finished. To do this drop a small ball of 
 it into a saucepan of boiling water and set back where it will 
 not boil, and cook for about ten minutes. If it cuts smooth 
 and fine all through and is tender, it is all right; if it should be 
 tough add two tablespoons cream, or better still, of veloute 
 sauce, to each half-pint of forcemeat. If, on the contrary, the 
 forcemeat ball is too soft and shrinks when cut add one well- 
 beaten egg to every pint of the forcemeat. The greatest care 
 must be used in cooking. If the water with which the article 
 is surrounded is kept at the boiling point or a little below it, 
 the forcemeat will be smooth, fine-grained and delicate. When- 
 ever it is spongy and tough, be sure that the water has been 
 allowed to get too hot. 
 
 Forcemeats are used for quenelles, boudins, border-molds, 
 balls to serve in soup, raised pies, timbales, etc. 
 
 Condensed from "Kitchen Companion," by Miss Parloa: 
 
 Chicken Forcemeat (White). 
 
 One-half pint meat. Three tablespoons butter. 
 
 One-half pint cream. One-half tablespoon salt. 
 
 One gill fine stale bread crumbs. One-half blade of mace. 
 Three egg whites. One-eighth teaspoon pepper. 
 
 Prepare the meat according to general directions, by chop- 
 ping, pounding and rubbing through a sieve. It will probably 
 take all the (raw) white meat from two large fowls. Boil the 
 bread, mace and cream together until they are cooked to a 
 smooth paste, about ten minutes ; then take from the fire, add 
 the butter, then the meat and seasoning. Beat whites of eggs 
 well and add the last thing. Test to make the texture right 
 and set away to keep cold until wanted. 
 
 Chicken Forcemeat (Dark). 
 
 Make as above, using only dark meat and yolks of eggs 
 instead of whites. 
 
 Oyster Forcemeat. 
 
 One generous pint of stale bread crumbs, one dozen large 
 oysters, three tablespoons butter, one teaspoon salt, one-eighth 
 teaspoon of cayenne, one teaspoon minced parsley, a grate of 
 nutmeg, one tablespoon lemon juice, three tablespoons oyster 
 juice and yolks of two raw eggs. Chop the oysters very fine, 
 add the rolled ingredients, pound to a smooth paste and rub 
 through a sieve. Taste to verify seasoning. 
 
 Game Forcemeat. 
 
 Game forcemeat is most savory and is prepared like veal 
 forcemeat. It is used to make balls to serve with game soups, 
 to garnish salmis, etc. 
 
/ 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 39 
 
 Liver Forcemeat. 
 
 Large livers from very fat geese are the best for this. They 
 can be obtained in the winter weighing from one and one-half 
 to three pounds each. The small size will yield enough for 
 one and one-half pints forcemeat. Cook the livers in enough 
 boiling salted water to cover, letting them simmer very gently 
 for about twenty-live minutes. If they do not break apart 
 easily at the end of that time cook until they do. Then 
 pound and rub through a sieve. Cook one-half pint bread 
 crumbs in one pint rich chicken stock, season to taste with 
 salt pepper and mace. Use 8 ounces butter and three eggs 
 well beaten. Otherwise proceed as in chicken forcemeat. 
 Chicken, turkey or veal liver can be substituted. 
 
 Fish Forcemeat. 
 
 Any kind of white-meated fish may be used. Use only the 
 solid meat and scrape, pound and sift as in other forcemeats. 
 Prepare a large half -pint and proceed as for chicken, adding a 
 little cayenne and a suspicion of onion or garlic. 
 
 Veal Forcemeat. 
 
 Make like chicken, using one-half pint veal pulp, instead of 
 chicken. 
 
 Chicken Quenelles. 
 
 The breast of one chicken, half a calf's brains, half a gill of 
 cream, one heaping tablespoon stale bread crumbs, one ounce 
 butter, one egg, one teaspoon salt, one-half teaspoon lemon 
 juice, a grate of nutmeg, a dust of pepper. Clean the brains, 
 tie in a piece of cheese cloth to boil for half an hour in well 
 seasoned stock. Cool and pound smooth and add to the 
 chicken meat also chopped and pounded and rub both through 
 a sieve. Cook the bread and cream together until a smooth 
 panada, add the meat and seasoning and lastly the egg and set 
 away to cool. When ready to use dip two teaspoons in hot 
 water, fill one spoon with the mixture and slip from one to 
 the other until it is smooth and shaped like the bowl of the 
 spoon. Slide on a buttered pan. When all are formed cover 
 with boiling stock and let stand where it will just not boil for 
 ten minutes, keeping the dish covered with buttered pape--. 
 
 Quenelles of Grouse. 
 
 Quenelles of grouse or other game prepared by taking equal 
 weight of meat and stale bread crumb are good served as a 
 ragout. To one-half pound of meat allow a saltspoon 
 each of chopped parsley and lemon rind, half an anchovy, 
 boned, salt, pepper, nutmeg and half a clove of garlic. Beat 
 and pound all thoroughly together, mix in one ounce clarified 
 butter and enough beaten egg to make the consistency of soft 
 paste. Cool and shape in balls the size of a small egg. These 
 may be poached and served with a Bechamel sauce or fried 
 and served with any good brown or mushroom sauce. 
 
 Lobster Quenelles. 
 
 Pound to a paste the meat, tom-alley and coral of a hen 
 lobster; mix with it two tablespoons fine bread crumbs and 
 three ounces of butter. Season with salt, pepper, a speck of 
 nutmeg and cayenne and moisten with yolks of two eggs and 
 white of one. If it proves too soft when tested add the other 
 white; if too stiff work in a little water. These may be cooled 
 after poaching and then fried in butter and served as a garnish 
 for steamed fish or in soup. They are delicious poached and 
 served cold with sauce Tartare. If served hot the sauce should 
 be Poulette or some other bland sauce. 
 
 Timbale of Macaroni. 
 
 Cook one-half pound of macaroni in salted water until it is 
 soft enough to divide easily. Rinse in cold water and cut into 
 short lengths. If time is no consideration it is verv pretty to 
 cut in pieces one-third of an inch long and line the mold, 
 setting the open ends against the bottom and sides which have 
 been thickly spread with cold butter. Spread over the macaroni 
 a good forcemeat suitable to whatever is to constitute the 
 filling of the timbale, and afterwards fill up the mold with a 
 highly seasoned mince of game, poultry, fish, oysters or sweet- 
 breads. Moisten with a good sauce, cover with more of the 
 forcemeat, pinching the edges well together lest the gravy 
 should break through in cooking. Set the mold into a pan of 
 hot water or into a steamer, and cook gently until hot through, 
 but the water must not boil. 
 
 Chicken Timbales. 
 
 The quantity given will fill one quart mold or twelve small 
 ones. 
 
 Fonri: MEAT. Cook half a pint of fine stale bread crumbs 
 in pint of cream with a blade of mace for twenty minutes. 
 Remove the mace and with a wooden spoon mash to a smooth 
 firm paste. Add six tablespoons butter, one tablespoon salt, 
 one-eighth teaspoon white pepper, one pint of raw, lean veal 
 scraped to a pulp and pounded smooth. Beat all well together 
 and lastly add the whites of four eggs beaten stiff. Set away 
 to cool. 
 
 Filling. Make a white sauce with one and one-half cups 
 cream, one level teaspoon butter, one round tablespoon flour, 
 one teaspoon salt, one-half saltspoon pepper. Mix with it three 
 cups diced chicken, adding mushrooms, truffles, etc., to your 
 
 Butter the molds with cold butter, dot the bottom and sides 
 with tinydice of truffle and line them with the forcemeat (take 
 care to have the lining thin at the bottom of the mold and thick 
 around the top, or it will break when turned out). Fill the 
 molds to within three-quarters inch of the top with the creamed 
 preparation, and cover with the forcemeat. Place the molds 
 in a deep pan and pour in hot water to rill almost to the top of 
 the molds. CoVer with a buttered paper and cook iri a slow 
 oven for twenty-five minutes. The water must not boil. Serve 
 with Bechamel yellow sauce, page, 42. 
 
 Swedish Timbales. 
 
 For the shells, use one cup of flour, one cup of milk, one egg, 
 half a teaspoon of salt. Put all the ingredients together in a 
 mixing bowl and with a Dover beater beat to a smooth batter. 
 Put the timbale iron in a kettle of hot fat for about twenty 
 minutes. Take the bowl of batter in the lef t hand and hold it 
 near the kettle of hot fat; with the right hand lift the iron 
 from the fat, wipe it on soft paper, dip it into the batter, coat- 
 ing the iron to within three-quarters of an inch from the top, 
 allow the batter to dry and then dip it in the hot fat, holding 
 the iron a little sidewise until it is in the fat, then turn perpen- 
 dicularly and cook until the batter is a delicate brown, or about 
 one minute. Take the iron out the same way it is put in, being 
 very careful not to drop the timbale into the fat, drain the 
 grease off and lay it on a paper to drain. Wipe the drops of grease 
 from the iron with a soft paper every time it is used. These 
 may be filled with creamed oysters, creamed fish, green peas, 
 macaroni, oranges, bananas, apricots, strawberries, etc., or 
 mixed fruits, with whipped cream over the top. They may be 
 made at any time and put in a dry, warm place, where they 
 will keep indefinitely. 
 
 Scotch Timbales. 
 
 Butter well as many small dariole molds as are needed, and 
 line them with cuts of plain unsweetened pancake. Take a 
 preparation of puree of chicken, an equal bulk of raw chicken 
 forcemeat and enough Salpicon Finauciere to make a mixture 
 that will drop from the spoon. Fill the molds and cover with 
 a round of pancake cut to fit the top exactly. Steam in a mod- 
 erate oven for eight minutes. Unmold, dress on a hot dish, 
 pour hot madeira sauce over (one-fourth pint for six molds), 
 and serve iiot. Adapted from "The Table." 
 
 Croquettes. 
 
 Care and practice are required for successfully making cro- 
 quettes. The meat must be chopped fine, all the ingredients be 
 thoroughly mixed, and the whole mixture be as moist as possi- 
 ble without spoiling the shape. Croquettes are formed in pear, 
 round and cylindrical shapes. The last is the best, as the cro- 
 quettes can be moister in this form than in the two others. 
 
 They are well adapted for using any remnants of meat, fish 
 or game; for making a savory dish from the more insipid vege- 
 tables, and a sweet croquette is often accepted as an entremet 
 or for a lunch dish. ' 
 
 To shape: Take about a tablespoon of the mixture, and with 
 both hands shape in the form of a cylinder. Handle as gently 
 and carefully as if a tender bird. Pressure forces the particles 
 apart, and thus breaks the form. Have a board sprinkled light- 
 ly with bread or cracker crumbs, and roll the croquettes very 
 gently on this. Remember that the slightest pressure will 
 break them. Let them lie on the board until all are finished, 
 when, if any have become flattened, roll them into shape again. 
 Cover a board thickly with crumbs. Have beaten eggs, slightly 
 salted, in a deep plate. Hold a croquette in the left hand, and 
 with a brush, or the right hand, cover it with the egg; then roll 
 in the crumbs. Continue this until they are all crumbed. 
 Place a few at a time in boiling fat. Cook till a rich brown. 
 It will tak" " K out a minute and a half. Take up, and lay o:i 
 brown r s<=r m a warm pan. — Miss Parloa. 
 
40 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 I 
 
 Chicken Croquettes, No. 1. (With Brains.) 
 
 2 chickens boiled. i nutmeg grated. 
 
 1 pair veal brains boiled. Salt to taste. 
 
 1 cup suet chopped. 2 sprigs parsley. 
 
 I lemon, juice and one-half 1 teaspoon onion juice, 
 
 the rind grated. Cayenne and white pepper. 
 
 1 pint cream sauce, No. 1. 
 
 Chop or grind the meat as fine as possible, (use Enterprise 
 Chopper), mix meat and seasoning well together and add as 
 much thick cream sauce as you dare; it should be very soft as 
 it stiffens in cooling. Set on the ice until thoroughly cold and 
 firm enough to shape easily. Roll in cork shape about one by 
 two and one half inches. Roll in sifted bread crumbs then in 
 beaten egg diluted with two tablespoons milk, then in crumbs 
 again, and set away till needed. Fry as in the preceeding 
 recipes. 
 
 N. B. The croquettes should be as soft as thick cream in the 
 inside when served, with a delicate gold-colored covering out- 
 side.— Condensed from "Good Living" by Madam S. V. B. 
 
 Chicken Croquettes, No. 2. 
 
 Cook and chop the chicken as in No. 1. "Weigh the meat 
 after chopping and to each pound allow one teaspoon each salt 
 and celery salt, one saltspoon white pepper, one-fourth salt- 
 spoon cayenne. Make a sauce with one quart of the stock in 
 which the chicken was cooked (reduced till very rich and 
 strong) four ounces of butter, four ounces of flour. Cook a 
 long time, beating long and hard till perfectly smooth, add the 
 meat and stir only enough to mix thoroughly. Taste for sea- 
 soning and put away till ice cold. Shape, egg and crumb, and 
 fry as in No. 1 . ^ T 
 
 Chicken Croquettes, No. 3. 
 
 The meat of one-half a chicken, one-half a can of mush- 
 rooms or six large oysters chopped together very fine. Cook a 
 tablespoon of flour in a heaping tablespoon of butter and 
 moisten with a gill of chicken stock, one-half gill of cream 
 and one-half gill of mushroom or oyster liquor. Stir vigorously 
 till the sauce is thick, smooth and glossy. Add the chopped 
 chicken and mushroom with one saltspoon salt, one-half salt- 
 spoon pepper and one teaspoon lemon juice. Stir well and if it 
 seems too thick add carefully a very little more stock. It 
 should be a sort of thick mush and very creamy. Cool, shape 
 and fry as before. — Condensed from Catherine Owen. 
 
 Royal Croquettes. 
 
 Half a boiled chicken, one large sweetbread, cleaned and kept 
 in hot water for five minutes; a calf's brains, washed and boiled 
 five minutes; one teaspoon of chopped parsley, salt, pepper, half 
 a pint of cream, one egg, quarter of a cup of butter, one table- 
 spoon of corn-starch. Chop the chicken, brains and sweet- 
 bread very fine, and add the egg well beaten. Mix the corn- 
 starch with a little of the cream. Have the remainder of the 
 cream boiling, and stir in the mixed corn-starch ; then add the 
 butter and the chopped mixture and stir over the fire until it 
 bubbles. Set aside to cool. Shape and roll twice in egg and in 
 cracker crumbs. Put in the frying-basket and plunge into 
 boiling fat. They should brown in less than a minute.— Mrs. 
 Furness, of Philadelphia. 
 
 Croquettes of Calf's Brains. 
 
 For these croquettes boil the brains in well salted water, with 
 a small sweetbread also, and when cold mince together. Add 
 half a can of mushrooms chopped tine, half a cup of warm 
 boiled rice, and one cup of thick, highly seasoned cream sauce. 
 Cool, and then shape in small rolls. Boll in fine crumbs; egg 
 and crumb again and fry in boiling lard or oil. Drain and serve. 
 
 Sweetbread Croquettes. 
 
 1 pint cooked and chopped 1 tablespoon scant salt. 
 
 sweetbread. i pint cream. 
 
 4 tablespoons chopped mush- J teaspoon white pepper, 
 
 rooms. a dust of nutmeg. 
 
 2 tablespoons butter. \ teaspoon chopped parsley. 
 1 tablespoon flour. 2 eggs. 
 
 1 tablespoon lemon juice. 
 Mix the salt, pepper, nutmeg, parsley and lemon juice with 
 the mushrooms and sweetbreads, and set aside to season while 
 making a white sauce according to direction on page 42 with 
 the butter, flour and cream. Add the meat to the sauce and 
 lastly the beaten egg. Set away to cool or stiffen for two or 
 three hours, then shape, crumb and fry according to directions 
 above. Serve with mushroom, white sauce or Bechamel yellow 
 sauce. — Miss Parloa, "Kitchen Companion." 
 
 Yeal and Sweetbreads. 
 
 \'eal and sweetbreads could be prepared like chicken. 
 
 Game. 
 
 Game like chicken croquettes No. 3. 
 
 Beef Croquettes. 
 
 Prepare by any of the recipes for chicken or veal croquettes, 
 if liked soft, but the following is recommended. Mince fine, 
 but not to make it pasty; add an equal bulk of hot, boiled 
 rice, cooked much softer than it is usually served for a vegeta- 
 ble; season highly with salt, pepper, cayenne and onion juice, 
 and set to cool. If it is too stiff, work in a little stock or gravy. 
 
 Fish Croquettes. 
 
 One pint cold boiled fish, free from skin and bone and minced 
 fine, one pint hot mashed potato, one tablespoon butter, one- 
 half cup hot milk, one egg well beaten; pepper and salt and a 
 little chopped parsley. Mix thoroughly and let cool. When 
 cold make into balls, dip into a beaten egg, roll in bread crumbs 
 and fry in hot lard. Very nice made of shad roes. For salmon 
 croquettes use (if made of canned salmon) bread crumbs instead 
 of potatoes, and an extra egg, omitting the milk. 
 
 Shad Roe Croquettes. 
 
 One pint of cream, four tablespoons of corn-starch, four shad 
 roe, four tablespoons of butter, one teaspoon of salt, the juice 
 of two lemons, a slight grating of nutmeg, and a speck of 
 cayenne. Boil the roe fifteen minutes in salted water; then 
 drain and mash. Put the cream on to boil. Mix the butter 
 and corn-starch together, and stir into the boiling cream. Add 
 the seasoning and roe. Boil up once, and set away to cool. 
 Shape and fry as directed. — Miss Lizzie Levereux. 
 
 Lobster Croquettes. 
 
 Two cups of finely chopped lobster, one saltspoon salt, one of 
 mustard, a trifle cayenne. Mix with one cup cream sauce. 
 Make into croquettes, roll in beaten egg and bread crumbs and 
 fry in hot lard. 
 
 Oyster Croquettes. 
 
 Half pint raw oysters, half a pint of cooked veal, one heap- 
 ing tablespoon of butter melted, three tablespoons of cracker 
 crumbs, the yelks of two eggs, one tablespoon of onion juice. 
 Chop the oysters and veal very fine. Soak the crackers in oys- 
 ter liquor, and then mix all the ingredients, and shape. Dip iu 
 egg and roll in bread crumbs, and fry as usual. 
 
 Croquettes of Macaroni. 
 
 Boil one-quarter pound macaroni in salted water until very 
 tender. Drain and toss in a sauce-pan with one heaped table- 
 spoon butter, one-half ounce Parmesan cheese, one-quarter 
 ounce cooked tongue cut in fine dice. Spread on a well-buttered 
 platter, about one inch thick, cover with a buttered paper, press 
 it well down and set away to cool. Divide with a back of a 
 knife into six parts, roll each one in grated cheese, then in 
 lieaten egg and in crumbs. Fry in very hot fat till well browned. 
 Drain and serve on a folded napkin. 
 
 Rice Croquettes. 
 
 Take a teacup of hot well-boiled rice and a teaspoon each of 
 sugar and butter, with half that quantity of salt, and to them 
 add one beaten egg and sufficient milk to bring all to the con- 
 sistency of a firm paste after thoroughly beating and mixing. 
 Shape into oval balls and dip in beaten egg, followed by a 
 dipping in bread crumbs. Fry in sweet, hot lard, turning with 
 care, and when done to a nice brown put into a heated colander. 
 These are very nice to have a well-plumped raisin or candied 
 cherry pushed into the center before frying and served with 
 maple sauce. 
 
 Savory Rice Croquettes. 
 
 Prepare the rice as for pilaff and then add two eggs well 
 beaten to each pint. Shape in oval balls, egg and crumb and 
 fry as usual. 
 
 Potato Croquettes. 
 
 Season hot mashed potatoes with salt and pepper, a little nut- 
 meg; beat to a cream, with a tablespoon of melted butter and 
 ten drops of onion juice to every pint of potatoes; add one 
 beaten egg yolk and some chopped parsley. Roll into small balls, 
 dip in egg and milk, coat them with bread crumbs and fry in 
 hot cottolene. 
 
WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 
 Farina Croquettes. 
 
 Two-thirds cup Keeker's farina mixed with one cup cold 
 milk, pour into one pint boiling water, and add one-half tea- 
 spoon salt. Cook one hour, stirring often. Add yolks of two 
 eggs and one-half cup thick cream. Cook live minutes, add 
 whites beaten stiff. Cool, shape, crumb and fry. Serve with 
 maple sugar sauce. 
 
 FRITTERS. 
 Fritter Batter, No. 1. 
 
 For Swedish Timbales and wherever an article is to receive a 
 very thin coating. 
 
 One egg, one cup milk, one cup flour, one teaspoon salt. Put 
 all together in a deep, narrow bowl and beat with Dover egg- 
 beater until smooth, but not frothed. When used for a sweet 
 dish add a teaspoon of sugar. 
 
 Fritter Batter, No. 2. 
 
 Two eggs beaten smooth, one cup flour, one-half teaspoon 
 baking powder, one-half cup milk, one teaspoon salt, one table- 
 spoon salad oil. Beat with Dover beater till smooth and glossy. 
 
 Pate a Chou. 
 
 Put into a sauce-pan one cup cold milk and two ounces of 
 butter. Bring to a boil as quickly as possible, stirring con- 
 stantly. Add one-quarter pound sifted and dried flour, and 
 stir briskly over the fire for two minutes. Stand the pan away 
 to cool slightly and as soon as cool enough beat in, one at a 
 time, four eggs, beating hard after each one. This is now 
 ready for use in any way and kept closely covered can set 
 aside to keep several days. 
 
 Chicken Fritters. 
 
 One cup chicken stock, one heaping tablespoon flour, one 
 tablespoon butter, one-half teaspoon salt, one-half teaspoon 
 celery salt, one cup cold chicken. Mix the flour smoothly in 
 the hot butter, add the boiling stock gradually and when 
 smooth, the seasoning, let simmer till quite thick. Pour half 
 the sauce onto a small platter, and spread the chopped chicken 
 evenly over the top. Then cover with the remainder of the 
 sauce. Place on ice and when cold and hard cut into inch by 
 two inch pieces. Dip them quickly into fritter batter No. 3 
 and fry in deep, hot fat. — Mrs. I). A. Lincoln. 
 
 Brain Fritters. 
 
 Clean the brain, removing the red membrane and clots of 
 blood, if there are any. Soak incoldsalted water one hour. Then 
 put them into one pint cold water with one tablespoon lemon 
 juice and one-half teaspoon salt. Bring to boil as soon as pos- 
 sible, boil gently ten minutes then plunge into cold water until 
 wanted. Dry gently on a soft cloth; cut into sections conven- 
 ient for serving, roll each in fritter batter No. 2, which should be 
 made a trifle stiffer than for the other dishes. Drop into hot 
 fat and fry a handsome brown. Drain each piece on clean 
 brown paper in a warm oven before serving. Have ready some 
 stalks of parsley washed and dried. Plunge these into the hot 
 fat for one minute until they become crisp, but do not let them 
 lose their color. Serve on a folded napkin, dressing with the 
 crisp parsley. 
 
 Ham Fritters. 
 
 Take off most of the fat from a pint of ham and chop fine. 
 Add to this two well-beaten eggs, a dash of cayenne pepper and 
 enough stock or milk to make a good fritter batter. Fry by the 
 spoon in hot fat until done in the centre and a light brown on 
 the outside. 
 
 Oyster Fritters. 
 
 Pick over and parboil the oysters; drain them well and use 
 their liquor in place of milk to mix the batter No. 2, adding 
 more salt and pepper, if needed. 
 
 Fish Fritters. 
 
 Boil one pound of the fish and mince it very fine, boil and 
 mash two Irish potatoes; chop half of a small onion; mix with 
 two raw eggs, a little salt and pepper and two tablespoons of 
 Worcestershire sauce. Make into balls, roll in cracker dust 
 and fry in boiling fat. 
 
 Vegetable Fritters. 
 
 Vegetables of any kind should be thoroughly cooked, drained 
 and either chopped fine or cut in pieces convenient for serving 
 before being added to the batter, using No. 2 or No. 3. 
 
 Tomato Fritters. 
 
 Cook together half a can of tomato, half a teaspoon of salt, 
 a pinch of pepper and half a teaspoon of Bugar. After conking 
 ten minutes si tr into it a tablespoon of (lour and one of butter 
 that have been previously blended. Cook three minutes longer 
 
 and rub through a strainer. Spread on a platter four sliees of 
 stale bread and pour the strained tomato over them. Let this 
 stand for half an hour, then turn the slices. Beat one egg and 
 dip the toast first in the egg and then in bread crumbs. After 
 that put them into the. frying-basket and cook in boiling fat 
 two minutes. Drain well and serve hot. 
 
 Banana Fritters, No. 1. 
 
 Mash fine three bananas. Mix one cup flour, one teaspoon 
 baking powder, two tablespoons sugar and one-half saltspoon 
 of salt. Beat one egg light, add one-third cup of milk; add to 
 dry ingredients. Add the bananas and one teaspoon lemon 
 juice. Drop by spoonfuls into deep fat and fry. Drain on 
 paper and sprinkle with powdered sugar. 
 
 Grape Fruit or Shaddock Fritters. 
 
 Pare the fruit with a sharp knife, removing every bit of 
 white skin. Remove pulp from each section, picking out the 
 seeds. Sift into a mixing bowl one cup flour, one saltspoon 
 salt, one heaping tablespoon sugar and rub to a smooth stiff 
 batter with a little milk and the yolks of two eggs well beaten. 
 Add the prepared fruit and enough milk to make it drop 
 smoothly from the spoon. Cut in lightly the whites of four 
 eggs beaten stiff. Drop by teaspoonfuls into hot fat. Drain 
 and dust with powdered sugar. 
 
 Pineapple Fritters. 
 
 Cut the fruit in thin, small sections, sprinkle with sugar and 
 let lie for an hour or two, then drain as dry as possible. Roll 
 each piece in sifted bread crumbs before dipping in batter 
 No. 1. Drain on soft paper, sift powdered sugar over and serve 
 with pineapple sauce. 
 
 Pineapple Sauce. 
 
 Make a heavy syrup w r ith one cup sugar and one-half cup 
 water, boiling it till it will spin. Then strain and add whatever 
 juice has drained from the cut pineapple (syrup, if canned pine 
 is used) and enough white wine to make one pint in all. Do 
 not boil after adding the wine. Finish with a teaspoon of San- 
 ta Cruz, or Old Jamaica, or Curacoa. 
 
 Apple Fritters. 
 
 Take soft tart apples, peel and remove the pips; cut in round, 
 thin slices; plunge them in a mixture of brandy, lemon juice 
 and sugar until they have acquired the taste; drain and dust 
 them with flour. Pour in the chafing-dish three tablespoons of 
 butter; when very hot fry the slices on both sides, sprinkle 
 powdered sugar and cinamon, and serve very hot. 
 
 Apricot Fritters. 
 Drain well a quart can of apricots. Dip each in batter No- 
 2 and fry quickly. Drain and serve like other fruit fritters, 
 either with powdered sugar or with apricot sauce. 
 
 Peach Fritters. 
 
 In using the canned peaches dip them in batter No. 3. If 
 fresh peaches are used, cut them in small pieces and mix 
 through batter No. 2. 
 
 Apple, Pear, etc. 
 
 Apple, pear, etc. are usually cut in slices, sprinkled with 
 sugar, lemon juice or wine and set to steep awhile before mask- 
 ing them with the batter. With pear fritters serve a sugar 
 syrup flavored with Green Chartreuse. 
 
 Preserved Plums. 
 
 Plums or other preserve should be cut in small pieces and 
 
 masked with batter No. 3. A spoonful of marmalade, 
 
 or any firm jelly makes a delicious mouthful treated in the 
 
 same wav. c. ,. t- -^ 
 
 Strawberry Fritters. 
 
 Brush carefully large strawberries, leaving them on the stem- 
 Do not wash. Roll them in thick, melted peach marmalade or 
 strawberry jam, then in pulverized macaroons; dip in p3te-a- 
 chou batter and fry briskly in deep, hot fat. Drain on a cloth, 
 dish on a crumpled Japanese napkin and sift powdered sugar 
 over. Serve at once. 
 
 Elderfiower Fritters, 
 
 Wash, drain and keep on ice till wanted, as many cymes of 
 freshly blossomed elder as will be needed. Dip them in batter 
 No. 1, shake lightly and fry till crisp. Serve as soon as possible, 
 as they spoil if allowed to droop. Range on a mat of elder 
 leaves and dust thickly with powdered sugar. 
 
42 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 I 
 
 MEAT AND FISH SAUCES. 
 
 The foundation for almost all our common sauces is what the 
 French call a "roux," made as follows: 
 
 Melt one ounce (one rounded tablespoon) butter in a sauce- 
 pan and let it boil till it begins to show a pale straw color. 
 Add two tablespoons flour and stir briskly. Add one pint hot 
 milk, or milk and water, or water, pouring slowly and beating 
 hard, add one-half teaspoon salt, one-half saltspoon white 
 pepper and a speck of cayenne and you have a plain white sauce 
 or drawn butter to which a good tablespoon of butter should be 
 added just long enough to melt before going to the table. 
 
 When the butter and flour are allowed to become brown it is 
 called a brown roux and is used for soups, stews, gravies, etc. 
 
 Cream Sauce, No. 1. 
 
 One pint cream, one-half teaspoon salt, one tablespoon butter, 
 one-half saltspoon pepper, two tablespoons flour, a speck cay- 
 enne. Make as above. 
 
 Creaui Sauce, No. 2. 
 
 Make as in No. 1, using only one scant tablespoon flour and 
 thickening with a liaison of two egg yolks beaten with an equal 
 bulk of cold water, return to the sauce-pan until the sauce 
 thickens like soft custard. 
 
 Cream Sauce, No. 3, for Croquettes, Etc. 
 
 Allow two tablespoons butter and four heaping tablespoons 
 flour to a pint of cream, seasoning as before. This sauce is 
 much improved by using half or more rich chicken stock in place 
 of all cream. 
 
 Velvet. 
 
 Melt one ounce butter, add two tablespoons flour and stir 
 well. Moisten with one quart good veal or chicken stock, add a 
 bouquet, one-half cup of mushroom liquor, six whole peppers, 
 one saltspoon salt, a suspicion of nutmeg. Boil for twenty 
 minutes, stirring continuously then remove to side of fire, skim 
 well, and simmer very slowly one hour. Strain and add more 
 salt and pepper if needed. 
 
 Bechamel. 
 
 One pint white stock, two tablespoons butter, four table- 
 spoons flour, six mushrooms or the liquor from a half can, one 
 cup cream, one and a half tablespoons lemon juice. Cook the 
 butter and flour well together with salt and pepper if the stock 
 is not already well seasoned. Add the stock as in plain white 
 sauce, then the mushrooms, washed, peeled and cut small; let 
 the sauce simmer twenty minutes with the lid half on. Skim 
 off the butter as it rises. Strain through a fine sieve, pressing 
 hard; add the cream and lemon juice and let boil about three 
 minutes. Pour out and stir often while cooling. If this is to 
 be used to mask a chaud-froid it will need one tablespoon gela- 
 tine. 
 
 Yellow Bechamel. 
 
 Add a blade of mace and one tablespoon minced carrot to 
 the seasoning of the above, and finish with a liaison of four egg 
 yolks and one-half cup cream. 
 
 Hollandaise. 
 
 Cook one tablespoon flour in one teaspoon butter, add 
 slowly one cup strong veal or chicken stock; when it boils 
 remove from the fire and whisk in the yolks of four eggs beaten 
 smooth with one tablespoon lemon juice and a few drops of 
 onion juice, if liked; return to the fire and stir constantly till it 
 begins to stiffen, then drop in one tablespoon butter and beat 
 with whisk till dissolved and smooth. It sounds like more 
 trouble than it is, and is the best sauce made for boiled fish, 
 cauliflower, asparagus, etc. 
 
 Russian. 
 
 To three-quarters pint of good Bechamel, add one teaspoon 
 powdered sugar, a scant saltspoon red pepper, three tablespoons 
 grated horse-radish and two of thick cream, (or a liaison of 
 four egg yolks and one-half pint of light wine). 
 
 Oyster. 
 
 One-half pint Bechamel, one-half teaspoon essence anchovy, 
 ten drops Simla sauce. Pour boiling hot over one-half pint 
 oysters that have been parboiled and drained. 
 
 Aurora. 
 
 To one pint of Bechamel, add four ounces butter, a little 
 cream, a pinch of red pepper, one tablespoon tarragon vinegar, 
 and enough lobster butter to make a fine reddish tint. Mix 
 well without boiling. 
 
 Lobster, for Boiled Fish. 
 
 One small lobster, four tablespoons of butter, two of flour* 
 one-fifth of a teaspoon of cayenne, two tablespoons of lemon 
 juice, one pint of boiling water. Cut the meat into dice. 
 Pound the "coral" with one tablespoon of the butter. Rub the 
 flour and the remainder of the butter to a smooth paste. Add 
 the water, pounded "coral," and butter, and the seasoning. 
 Simmer five minutes, and then strain on the lobster. Boil up 
 once and serve. 
 
 Asparagus. 
 
 Make a white roux as usual, taking one pint of the water in 
 which the asparagus was boiled; when smooth, add one table- 
 spoon lemon juice and a half teaspoon sugar. 
 
 Soubise. 
 
 Peal, slice and parboil four Spanish onions. Drain and put 
 them into a stew-pan with two ounces butter, salt, pepper and 
 a dust of nutmeg, if liked. Simmer gently till they can be 
 rubbed through a fine puree sieve. Add one pint Bechamel or 
 velvet sauce and simmer for fifteen minutes. 
 
 Meat Glaze. 
 
 Is excellent for giving color and flavor to soups and adds the 
 finishing touch to many of the best sauces. Place eight quarts 
 of well flavored consomme over a brisk fire and reduce it to one- 
 half pint. Put it in a stone jar, cool and cover it, and it will 
 keep in the ice-box for a long time. 
 
 Bouquet. 
 
 Four stalks parsley, one stalk celery, one bay leaf, two cloves, 
 one-half blade mace, one sprig thyme. Wrap all in the parsley 
 and tie closely at each end. I)ry for winter use. 
 
 Mirepoix. 
 
 Cook two ounces of fat, butter, dripping or chicken oil, two 
 small carrots, one onion, one sprig of thyme, one bay leaf, six 
 peppercorns, three cloves and an ounce of lean ham; bits of the 
 outside of roast meat may be added. Chop the vegetables and 
 cook gently for fifteen minutes, add two stalks of celery and 
 one-half parsley root; simmer covered for ten minutes more, 
 add pepper and spice if desired and store for use. 
 
 Tomato. 
 
 1 quart tomatoes, 2 tablespoons mirepoix, 1 teaspoon sugar. 
 Simmer till reduced one-half; sift, add either white or brown 
 roux and let simmer 5 minutes longer, add more seasoning if 
 needed. 
 
 Spanish. 
 
 Two carrots, one onion, cut fine and cooked in two ounces 
 bacon or sausage dripping, add one sprig thyme, one bay leaf, 
 six peppers, one clove, two sprigs parsley, four stalks celery (or 
 one-quarter teaspoon celery seed). Two quarts weak white 
 broth of any kind and simmer gently for one-half hour; then 
 add strong brown stock enough to make four quarts. Boil 
 slowly three hours, adding any bones of roast veal or ham at 
 hand. Cook four ounces of flour in two ounces dripping till a. 
 light brown, moisten with the boiling stock and skim well 
 before straining. Strain and put away for constant use. It 
 will keep a month in cold weather and is the foundation for 
 numberless fancy sauces. 
 
 Madeira. 
 
 Add one gill mushroom liquor to one pint of Spanish sauce, 
 also one gill Madeira wine and one-half teaspoon pepper. 
 Cook'gently for thirty minutes, taking off the fat; the sauce, 
 will be left rather thin. Strain and use as needed. 
 
 Colbert. 
 
 Heat one-half pint Madeira sauce, add to it gradually one 
 ounce fresh butter and two tablespoons meat-glaze. Mix well 
 together without boiling; then squeeze in the juice of one-half 
 a large lemon (about two tablespoons) and add one teaspoon 
 chopped parsley when serving. 
 
/ 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 43 
 
 Poivrade. 
 
 Fry in one-halt' ounce butter one-half an onion and one-half 
 carrot. Cut small a sprig of thyme, one bay leaf, six pepper- 
 corns three cloves, four parsley leaves and one-half ounce raw 
 ham. Cook for live minutes, then moisten with two table- 
 spoons tarragon vinegar and one pint Spanish sauce. ]5oil 
 twenty minutes then remove grease and strain. 
 
 Olive Brown. 
 
 Stone two dozen olives. Cook for one-half hour in water 
 enough to cover. Drain and put into a stew-pan with one pint 
 plain brown sauce. Set over steam for five minutes. This is 
 especially nice for roast duck. 
 
 Orange, for Duck or other Game. 
 
 Reduce the glaze in the pan with a pint of broth; strain and 
 remove the fat, reduce to one-half with one-half pint of thick 
 brown gravy and the juice of two oranges. Strain, add the 
 rind of one orange very finely shred. 
 
 Bordelaise. 
 
 One-half pint sauterne, one tablespoon chopped shallots, 
 three-fourths pint Spanish sauce, scant saltspoon red pepper, 
 about two inches cooked marrow. Boil the shallots in the 
 wine until reduced one-half, add the Spanish sauce and cook 
 fifteen minutes, then add the red pepper and the marrow cut in 
 eighteen round slices; they should be less than one-eighth inch 
 thick. Boil up once and serve. 
 
 Robert. 
 
 Slice one-half an onion and fry with one-half ounce butter 
 and one teaspoon sugar until a golden color; moisten with one- 
 half pint Spanish sauce and simmer ten minutes; then add one 
 teaspoon mustard flour, rubbed smooth with four tablespoons 
 white wine vinegar (diluted). Stir till it comes to the boil, 
 strain and serve. 
 
 Perigueux. 
 
 Tut into a sauce-pan three ladles of browned and thickened 
 stock, two glasses of chablis (any white wine will do), and half 
 a saltspoon of pepper; reduce one-quarter by boiling, and add 
 half a pint of truitles chopped finely. 
 
 Indian. 
 
 One sliced onion, one ounce raw, lean ham, one sprig thyme, 
 twelve whole peppercorns, one ounce butter, one teaspoon 
 curry, one-half cup cream, two egg yolks, two tablespoons lemon 
 juice, one pint, velvet sauce. Cook the onion, ham, thyme and 
 peppers with the butter until well reduced, but do not brown. 
 Rub the curry into the velvet sauce, add to the cooked onion 
 and boil ten minutes, then strain into the beaten egg yolks 
 which have been diluted with the cream. Stir over hot water 
 until it begins to thicken, then add the lemon and serve at once. 
 
 Piquante. 
 
 Put into a sauce-pan an ounce of butter, a chopped onion and 
 carrot and simmer till brown. Add one gill vinegar, a bay leaf, 
 one clove, six peppercorns, six allspice berries, one-half blade 
 of mace, one and one-half pints Spanish sauce; simmer twenty 
 minutes. Finish with two tablespoons each chopped gherkins, 
 capers, olives and parsley. 
 
 Champagne. 
 
 Cream together one tablespoon of butter and one of flour; 
 stir into it slowly a half pint of hard-boiling brown soup stock; 
 let it boil up once or twice to cook the flour, remove it from the 
 fire, and stir in half a pint of champagne. 
 
 Cucumber. 
 
 Grate two good-sized cucumbers and allow all the water to 
 drain away. Add one-half teaspoon salt, a dash of cayenne, a 
 tablespoon of vinegar and serve at once. — 8. T. Rorer. 
 
 Horse-Radish. 
 
 One cup of freshly grated horse-radish, one teaspoon salt, 
 one-half saltspoon pepper, one teaspoon made mustard, one tea- 
 spoon sugar, two tablespoons vinegar, well mixed together. 
 Add one cup cream whipped very stiff. 
 
 Mint. 
 
 Pick the leaves from the stems, wash them thoroughly and 
 wring them dry in a cloth. Chop as fine as sawdust, sprinkle 
 powdered sugar over thickly, and barely cover with vinegar. 
 •If any vinegar rests in the bottom of the sauce-boat, it should 
 be thrown away. Make this sauce half an hour before using, 
 and set it on the ice. 
 
 Mustard. 
 
 Two teaspoons of dry mustard, one teaspoon of flour, one 
 teaspoon ot salt, one teaspoon of soft butter, one teaspoon of 
 sugar, two tablespoons of vinegar. 
 
 Mix in the order given, in a granite saucepan; add one-half cup 
 of boiling water and stir on the fire till it thickens and is smooth. 
 Add two tablespoons finely chopped pickles and serve it cold. 
 
 Mayonaise. 
 
 Three raw egg yolks in a cold bowl with one level teaspoon 
 dry mustard, one teaspoon salt, one-half saltspoon cayenne, one- 
 half saltspoon sugar. Beat with a Dover beater till smooth, 
 then add drop by drop one pint of salad oil, beating constantly. 
 If it thickens too much to stir well, put in lemon juice alter- 
 nately with oil until two tablespoons have been used, then add 
 vinegar until as sour as wished, but avoid thinning too much. 
 
 Oil should be kept in the dark and at a moderate tempera- 
 ture, sixty-five degrees to seventy-five degrees, to secure the 
 best results. 
 
 The sauce should have a jelly like, not pasty, consistency and 
 should keep its shape when drawn up to a point; the harder it 
 is beaten the sooner this result is attained. If a thick, smooth 
 sauce is required for masking, a part of the sauce can be taken 
 out before all the lemon juice or vinegar is added, and the 
 remainder finished to suit the taste or the dish being made. If 
 the sauce is to be served separately and a spongy texture is de- 
 sired, all the acid dilution may be put in when half the oil has 
 been used; beat furiously until foamy and finish with the rest 
 of the oil. The size of the eggs and the sharpness of the vine- 
 gar are so variable that the sauce made with a pint of oil may 
 vary at different times. If the vinegar is too strong, substitute 
 one tablespoon of water. The sugar in this recipe is a conces- 
 sion to the present popular taste, a true mayonaise has none; 
 palatable sauces may be made at one's pleasure with wine, 
 cream, bacon fat — even flour or cornstarch may be used— but 
 they should not be called mayonaise. 
 
 If the oil is added too fast the sauce may curdle or "break;" 
 in this case take a fresh, cold egg yolk in another bowl, beat till 
 thick, add the curdled sauce by the half teaspoon at first, then 
 more freely until all has been taken in, then go on as usual. 
 
 When making half the quantity use a small bowl to begin 
 with and take one large or two small egg yolks; when it begins 
 to spatter, as it should before it is half done, turn into a larger 
 one. 
 
 Green Mayonaise. 
 
 Green mayonaise is made by the addition of three tablespoons 
 ravigote herbs to this recipe. 
 
 Red Mayonaise. 
 
 Red mayonaise, by adding one tablespoon lobster coral, dried 
 and pounded to powder. 
 
 Sauce Tartare. 
 
 Sauce tartare is made by adding to the green mayonaise 
 fifteen drops onion juice, one teaspoon capers, one teaspoon 
 gherkins, one teaspoon parsley, each chopped exceedingly fine, 
 one teaspoon chervil, if you have it. 
 
 Remoulade. 
 
 Rub well together the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs with one 
 raw, one teaspoon mustard, one-half teaspoon salt, one-half 
 saltspoon white pepper, one teaspoon chopped parsley. Add 
 two tablespoons vinegar and beat in by degrees one-half pint 
 oil alternating with more vinegar until three tablespoons of 
 tarragon vinegar have been used, beat with Dover beater till 
 very light and thick. 
 
 Bearnaise. 
 
 Chop very fine two medium sized shallots, place them on the 
 fire with two tablespoons of chervil vinegar and five crushed 
 peppers. Reduce until nearly dry, then put away to cool. Rub 
 into it six raw egg yolks, beating sharply, then work in gradu- 
 ally one and one-half ounces of fresh butter (or lightly s-lted 
 creamery), season with one teaspoon salt, a dust of grated nut- 
 meg and twelve finely chopped tarragon leaves. Set the sauce- 
 pan into boiling water and cook until the sauce is firm, beating- 
 briskly with a whisk, add one teaspoon melted meat glaze, beat 
 till well mixed, strain and send at once to the table, arranging 
 over it any article required to be served. — Adapted from FUi- 
 pini. 
 
 Ravigote Sauce. (Cold.) 
 
 Add one tablespoon each of finely minced parsley, chives, 
 chervil, tarragon and shallot to one pint of mayonaise, &nd 
 add a little spinach green if not colored enough with the herbs. 
 
44 
 
 \ 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 I 
 
 iti iig. ifet itt 2&L 
 ?if 5pr w * «ff 
 
 ore Wh^at to the /Will. » 
 
 • ^ 
 
 A^ 
 
 WASJTBZ7JRIV, CBOSJ5F CO. 
 
 Have recently added to their extensive milling 
 plant fifty (50) wheat elevators. This firm now 
 owns 150 elevators, situated in the Hard Wheat 
 Belt of Minnesota and Dakota, enabling them to 
 buy wheat direct from farmers' hands and reducing 
 manufacturing cost of flour to the minimum. 
 
 XTbie is tbe flour 
 
 That took FIRST PRIZE at the 
 Centennial Exhibition I876. 
 
 That took FIRST PRIZE at the That took FIRST PRIZE at the 
 Millers' Exposition, I880. World's Fair, I893. 
 
 LARGEST, FINEST AND BEST EQUIPPED MILL8 ON EARTH. 
 
 . . REMEMBER 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO. FLOUR 
 
 is always branded with CENTER IN YELLOW which is our registered trade mark. 
 
 NONE OTHER IS GENUINE. 
 
V 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NKW COOK BOOK. 
 
 45 
 
 Ravigoto Sauce. (Hot.) 
 
 Put into a sauce-pan one-half pint of consomme' stock, one- 
 half teaspoon of vinegar, a very little green garlic ami the 
 same of tan-agon leaves and chervil. Boil ten minutes, drain 
 the herbs, press all moisture from them with a cloth and chop 
 very fine. Cook one-half ounce Hour in one-half ounce butter, 
 moisten with the consomme and vinegar and when it comes to 
 a smooth mixture add the chopped herbs and serve. 
 
 Ravigoto Butter. 
 
 To the above herbs add one-half teaspoon of essence of 
 anchovy, an ounce of fresh butter and a few drops of spinach 
 green. Rub through a line sieve and keep in a cold place for 
 general use. 
 
 Horseradish Butter. 
 
 Pound in a mortar one teaspoon of grated horseradish with 
 one tablespoon of butter. Season with one-third saltspoon of 
 red pepper. Rub through a fine sieve and keep in a cool place. 
 When this butter is added to other sauces it should not boil 
 again. 
 
 Shrimp Butter. 
 
 Pick the meat from twelve cooked shrimp; dry the shells 
 and pound all together in a mortar, adding one tablespoon of 
 good butter; place in a sauce-pan on a moderate fire, stirring 
 until it clarifies, it will take about five minutes. Strain through 
 a napkin pressing hard, and letting it drop into cold water. 
 When it is hard take it out and place it in a warm bowl, stirring 
 till it takes the desired color. Lobster butter is made in the 
 same way. 
 
 Bread. 
 
 Crumble one and one-half ounces of stale bread and place it 
 in a sauce-pan with a scant half cup of cold milk and six whole 
 peppers. Let simmer for five minutes; then pour in one-half 
 cup cream, one-half teaspoon onion juice, simmer i\ve minutes 
 longer and serve in a sauce-bowl, removing the peppers. Do 
 not stir. 
 
 Bohemian. 
 
 Put in a sauce-pan one cup fresh bread crumbs, one-half cup 
 good beef broth, season with salt, stir occasionally and boil for 
 ten minutes; rub through a puree sieve, add four tablespoons 
 fresh grated horseradish and two ounces butter; mix well but 
 do not boil. Serve with beefsteak or cold boiled beef or roast 
 
 veal - Black Butter. 
 
 Cook one ounce of butter in the frying pan until it becomes 
 brown; add six parsley leaves, heat again for one minute, then 
 throw in five drops of vinegar. Pour it into a sauce bowl and 
 
 serve. 
 
 Tartar. 
 
 Mix one tablespoon vinegar, one teaspoon lemon juice, one 
 saltspoon salt and one tablespoon Worcestershire and heat over 
 hot water. Brown one-third cup butter, strain it in the other 
 mixture and pour over the dish. 
 
 Vinaigrette. 
 
 Chop together very fine one shallot, two branches parsley the 
 same of chives and chervil. Place them in a sauce bowl with 
 one tablespoon of salt, a teaspoon of pepper, and three tea- 
 spoons of vinegar. Stir all well together, then add four table- 
 spoons good oil; mix well again and serve. 
 
 Garnishing Chipolata. 
 
 Make ready equal quantities of carrots, turnips, chestnuts, 
 mushrooms, pieces of bacon and small sausages, as many as 
 are required to garnish the dish. Roast or boil and peel the 
 chestnuts, fry the pieces of bacon, boil separately all the other 
 ingredients in seasoned broth. When they are ready, drain 
 them and put into a sauce-pan with sufficient Spanish sauce to 
 cover, add a glass of sherry and it is ready for use. It is better 
 prepared the day before. 
 
 Garnishing Provengale, No. 1. 
 
 Put a chopped onion and one bruised clove of garlic in the 
 sautoir; fry a little, add one pint finely sliced mushrooms and 
 fry a little longer; wet with a pint of Spanish sauce and a gill 
 of tomato sauce and boil five minutes. Finish with a pinch of 
 red pepper, chopped parsley and lemon juice. 
 
 Garnishing a la Provengale, No. 2. 
 
 Peel two solid white onions, mince them and parboil for five 
 minutes; drain well and toss them in an omelet pan with one 
 tablespoon fresh butter for five minutes. Rub the spoon witli 
 a freshly cut clove of garlic, add a dash of lemon juice or white 
 wine, one-half tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese and one-half 
 'cup good white sauce. Season with salt and pepper. Stir all 
 well until it comes to the boil, then set away to cool. 
 
 Garnishing a la Financiore. 
 
 Cook separately and put in a saucepan a sliced sweetbread, 
 a beef palate cut in round slices, one-hall' pint diced mush- 
 rooms, two large cock's combs, four tablespoons chopped truf- 
 fles, twelvesmall chicken quenelles, twelve Stoned and parboiled 
 olives, add one quart of madeira sauce and boil gently till of 
 the desired consistency; skim and use as required, 
 
 Salpicon Royal. 
 
 Cut a blanched sweetbread into small pieces and put them 
 into a saucepan with one level teaspoon of butter, six mi 
 rooms and one truffle all cut into one-half inch dice. Add them 
 to one-half pint of white sauce well seasoned with salt, pepper 
 and a speck of nutmeg if liked. Let cook on a slow fire five 
 minutes, tossing gently. Finish by adding one level tablespoon 
 shrimp butter. 
 
 EGGS. 
 
 Breakfast Eggs 
 
 Should never be boiled. A thin shell of the white is made 
 hard and indigestible, while the bulk of the egg is barely 
 warmed through. The following is a better way: Put six into 
 a vessel that will hold two quarts. Fill with boiling water, 
 cover closely and set on the stove shelf for seven minutes in 
 cook very soft; ten minutes for medium, twelve to fifteen 
 minutes for very lirm. Crumple a napkin in a hot dish and 
 serve ranged in its folds. 
 
 Scrambled Eggs. 
 
 For six persons allow six eggs and one tablespoon milk, one salt- 
 spoon salt, a speck of pepper and one-half teaspoon of butter 
 to each egg. 15reak the egg into a bowl, add the seasoning, but 
 do not beat. When the milk begins to boil pour in the eggs and 
 seasoning. Do not stir, but as the egg cooks, scrape gently 
 from bottom of the dish, drawing the cooked mass to one side. 
 Remove from the fire before it is quite firm through, turn into 
 a hot dish and serve quickly. This dish may be varied by using, 
 instead of the milk, strained tomato, soup stock or gravy. 
 
 Poached Eggs. 
 
 For this the eggs should be new laid and cold. Put a quart 
 of water, one teaspoon salt and one teaspoon vinegar in a 
 shallow pan, arrange in it as many muffin rings as there are 
 eggs to be cooked, and set the pan where the water will bubble 
 at one side only. Break the eggs one at a time and slide them 
 into the rings. If the water does not cover them, gently pour 
 on a little more boiling water till it does. Cook till the white is 
 set over the yolks; then pour off most of the water; with a 
 cake-turner, lift each egg and lay on a slice of buttered toast, 
 removing the ring after it is in place. Poached eggs may be 
 done in milk, stock or in gravy which can be poured over the 
 toast on which they are served. They may be used with various 
 arrangements of hashed meat or cold fish reheated in white 
 sauce or any other. They are a favorite accompaniment to ham 
 and bacon, and are used as garnish in clear soup, and with 
 Spanish rice, etc. 
 
 Griddled Eggs. 
 
 Heat the griddle almost as much as for baking cakes, butter 
 it lightly and range small muffin rings on it. Drop an egg in 
 each and turn as soon as lightly browned. They resemble 
 fried eggs, but are far more delicate. 
 
 Steamed Eggs. 
 
 Cook in an ordinary steamer for five minutes, more or less, to 
 suit the taste; they may also be broken into buttered cups and 
 steamed with any of the variations in seasoning found under 
 poached eggs, as they really are. When different members of 
 the family come to breakfast at different times, it is a great 
 convenience to be able to prepare all the portions at once, and 
 cook and serve when needed. * For an invalid, beat light, season 
 and steam only till well warmed through. 
 
 Baked Eggs. 
 
 Beat the whites of six eggs to a stiff froth, leaving each yolk 
 in a half shell; season with pepper and salt, put them in a but- 
 tered baking dish, make little hollows with the end of a shell 
 and slip a yolk into each one. Bake in an oven quick enough 
 to brown slightly in five minutes. This is pretty, but rather 
 tasteless. Try it with thin rounds of buttered brown bread 
 covered with cheese, either grated or cut; set in the oven long 
 enough to heat the bread and melt the cheese, then add the 
 beaten whites and yolks as before. 
 
 For an invalid, make a nest of the beaten white of one egg 
 on a square of toasted white or graham bread, put a tablespoon 
 of rich cream over the yolk and set for three minutes in a quick 
 oven. 
 
46 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 I 
 
 Plain Omelet. . 
 
 Put four eggs into a bowl with half a teaspoon salt, one scant 
 saltspoon pepper, give them twelve vigorous beats with a fork 
 and add four tablespoons milk or cream; put one teaspoon 
 butter in an omelet pan, shake it over the fire till frothy, turn 
 in the eggs and shake over a quick fire until they are set; roll 
 and turn on to a dish. To make jelly, parsley, ham, cheese or 
 chicken omelet spread the seasoning over the egg just before 
 rolling it. 
 
 Omelet, No. 2. 
 
 For each egg allow one saltspoon salt, a dust of pepper, one 
 tablespoon of liquid (milk, cream, stock, tomato, etc.). Break 
 whites and yolks separately, beating each until very light; add 
 seasoning and fold the yolks into the w r hites, stirring as little as 
 possible. Have the omelet pan hot, melt in it one teaspoon of 
 butter and cook over a quick fire until well browned on the 
 bottom, then set in the oven until the top is set. Fold carefully 
 not to break the crust, aud turn onto a hot dish. Serve at once. 
 This omelet is delicious made with ham, green peas, one cup 
 grated or chopped sweet corn or asparagus tips. The latter 
 should be well cooked, drained, seasoned and spread on just 
 before folding the omelet; the ham may be folded in or mixed 
 through the whole egg. Oysters should be parboiled and 
 drained ; the liquor from them may be strained and used instead 
 of milk to give a richer flavor to the omelet. Other additions 
 may be used as follows: 
 
 Three tablespoons of fresh mushrooms, peeled, chopped and 
 fried lightly in just enough butter to keep from sticking. 
 
 One cup stewed kidney, page 19. Serve with tomato sauce, 
 adding it to the extra gravy from the kidneys. 
 
 Three sardines, skinned and boned, broken into bits and sea- 
 soned lightly with cayenne and lemon juice. 
 
 One-half cup Lyonnaise potato. 
 
 For sweet omelets use fruit pulp, sweetened and cooked or not; 
 garnish with whole fruit (strawberries, raspberries, etc.) or 
 pieces of cooked fruit (apple, peach, pear). 
 
 Chicken Liver Omelet. 
 
 Take four sound livers, soak them in salted water one hour, 
 drain and brown in one ounce butter in a rather small pan, 
 then cook slowly till tender; cut in small bits, add a teaspoon 
 of minced onion, cook three minutes, then one gill of Spanish 
 sauce or good brown gravy, one tablespoon mild vinegar and 
 one tablespoon chopped mushrooms; seasonas needed with salt 
 and cayenne; set back while preparing omelet No. 2. When 
 set, put in the livers, fold and serve as usual. — Adapted from 
 T. J. Murrey, 
 
 Fried Eggs. 
 
 Fried eggs may be done in butter, oil or any sweet animal 
 fat; the pan should hold fat enough to almost cover the eggs, 
 the eggs should be slipped into the fat singly from a cup; dip 
 the hot fat over them; do not let the fat grow hot enough to 
 "frizzle" the whites, it will be too hard for any but an ostrich to 
 digest; browned butter with chopped parsley and a few drops 
 of vinegar may be served poured over them on the platter, also 
 with poached eggs on toast. 
 
 An Amulet of Eggs the Savoury Way. 
 
 Take a dozen of eggs, beat them very well and season them 
 with salt and a little pepper; then have your frying-pan ready 
 with a good deal of fresh butter in it and let it be thoroughly 
 hot; then put in your eggs with four spoons strong gravy; have 
 ready parsley and a few chieves cut and throw them over it, 
 and when it is enough turn it; and when done, dish it and 
 squeeze orange or lemon over it. — From, the Compleat House- 
 wife. 
 
 Sweet Omelet. 
 
 Allow one teaspoon powdered sugar to each egg; omit the 
 pepper and proceed as for No. 2. When ready to fold, lay in 
 any kind of jelly, marmalade or fresh fruit, allowing one table- 
 spoon to each egg. Fold and dust with sugar. The juice or 
 pulp of fruit may be used, instead of milk or cream. The sur- 
 face may be thickly covered with sugar and scored w r ith a hot 
 poker. 
 
 Omelet Celestine. 
 
 Allow one macaroon and one teaspoon apple or quince jelly for 
 every two eggs. Roll the macaroons and braid with the jelly, 
 moisten with a little cream if too stiff to spread easily on tlie 
 omelet. Cook, fill and fold as usual, garnish with whipped cream 
 fenced in with split lady fingers. The whipped cream may also 
 be "piped" on in figures, but not much time can be spent on the 
 ornamentation. 
 
 Spanish Omelet. 
 
 Cut four ounces of bacon in very thin slices and then into 
 half inch squares; fry gently till crisp and add one small onion, 
 a medium sized tomato and five mushrooms, all chopped rather 
 fine; rub a freshly cut clove of garlic on the spoon used to stir, 
 while cooking fifteen minutes. Meanwhile break six eggs in a 
 bowl, season with one saltspoon salt, one-quarter saltspoon 
 white pepper. Give them a dozen or so strong strokes and turn 
 into a perfectly smooth frying-pan, in which a teaspoon of but- 
 ter has been melted and spread over the bottom and side. 
 Shake as usual, until nearly set. Spread the bacon and vegeta- 
 bles quickly over, fold, set it in the oven for one minute, turn it 
 upon a heated platter and serve at once. — Mrs. Rorer. 
 
 Rice Omelet. 
 
 Warm a cup of cold boiled rice in one cup of milk with one 
 tablespoon butter; stir and beat till well blended; add three 
 well beaten eggs and salt as needed; melt another tablespoon 
 butter in a frying pan; when boiling hot turn in tne rice and 
 egg, let it brown one minute, put in the oven to set, fold and 
 serve as usual. — Miss Corson. 
 
 There are many dishes in which rice, crumbs, macaroni, flour, 
 meat or vegetables chopped fine are mixed with the raw egg 
 instead of being laid thinly over the cooked egg just before 
 folding. These are not true omelets, but may be made nourish- 
 ing and attractive, and are recommended especially when eggs 
 are dear. 
 
 Hard Boiled Eggs. 
 
 Hard boiled eggs may be served in numberless ways. Cook 
 one-half hour as directed for breakfast, cover at once with cold 
 water and renew it till they can be handled well; roll on the 
 table gently till the shell is well crushed and it can be peeled off 
 without marring the egg. 
 
 Scalloped Eggs, No. 1. 
 
 Slice six eggs, season with salt, pepper and one teaspoon 
 chopped parsley, or cheese, or onion, and cover with one pint 
 white sauce made with stock. Sprinkle with one-half cup 
 cracker crumbs lighly browned in butter and set in moderate 
 oven ten minutes. 
 
 No. 2. Use one cup of scalded oysters to alternate with the 
 eggs and cover with a plain cream sauce. 
 
 Eggs Curried. 
 
 Cut some hard-boiled eggs in halves; cut off the white end 
 sufficiently to make them stand upright; pour some curry sauce 
 around them. 
 
 Lyonnaise. 
 
 Cook a chopped onion in butter till yellow, not brown at all, 
 add the whites of six eggs chopped fine, season highly with 
 cayenne and salt, add a few drops of lemon, heap on a hot platter 
 and garnish with the whole yolks, or rub them through a sieve, 
 add one tablespoon of butter, two tablespoons potted ham, one 
 raw egg yolk, shape in balls again and poach or fry in butter. 
 
 Beauregard. 
 
 Cook four eggs twenty minutes, make a white sauce with one 
 cup milk, one tablespoon butter, one tablespoon cornstarch; lay 
 six small squares of buttered toast on a dish, cover it with 
 white sauce, then sprinkle with the whites chopped fine and 
 the yolks pressed through a ricer. 
 
 Ox Eyes. 
 
 Take slices an inch thick from good light bread and cut 
 rounds with a three inch cutter, cut a smaller ring one and a 
 half inch and scoop out enough to take in an egg; brush with 
 butter and crisp in a quick oven. Break a fresh egg in each, 
 season with salt and pepper, moisten with one tablespoon 
 cream and put in oven till set. 
 
 Pickled Eggs. 
 
 Six hard-boiled eggs, with four whole cloves stuck in each ; 
 rub together one-half teaspoon salt, one-half teaspoon pepper, 
 one-half teaspoon mustard with a little cold vinegar; let one 
 pint vinegar come to the boil, add the spice and cook one min- 
 ute, pour boiling hot over the eggs, in a glass jar, cover closely. 
 They will be ready to use in about two weeks. A few pieces of 
 boiled beet in the vinegar will turn them a pretty pink. These 
 are nice for picnics and lunches, or to accompany broiled beef- 
 steak. 
 
WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 47 
 
 Spanish Ham and Eggs. 
 
 Prepare three slices of 'Anno Bitter," page 62, (the bread 
 may be cut in six rounds before frying.) Mix one cup of minced 
 ham and one-third of a cup of soft bread crumbs with cream to 
 moisten, or with the remaining custard. Heat it and season 
 with cayenne. Spread this mixture on each slue, making a 
 Slight hollow with the back of the spoon to hold the egg. (look 
 six eggs as directed, page 45. Put a wholeegg on each slice and 
 serve at once. 
 
 Whipped Eggs. 
 
 Beat three eggs till light and pour into one quart fast boiling 
 sailed water; stir -vigorously for two minutes, drain in a hue 
 sieve, turn out on a hot platter ami garnish with crisp bacon. 
 It may also be served on buttered toast. 
 
 Golden Balls. 
 
 Have a Scotch bowl of hot fat. Stir carefully round and 
 round until the fat hollows in the center, drop a very fresh egg 
 ml o this hollow from a cup and keep up the circular motion of 
 the fat for two minutes or less if the fat is quite hot; lay the 
 egg on a paper and set where it will keep warm but will not 
 harden. Only one can be done at a time and a little practice is 
 required to get them smooth, but they make a most effective 
 garnish for hash at breakfast, or for spinach at dinner. 
 
 Egg Timbales. 
 
 Six eggs, one and a half cups of milk, one teaspoon of salt, 
 one eigth teaspoon of pepper, one teaspoon of chopped parsley 
 ami one-fourth teaspoon of onion juice. Break the eggs into 
 a bowl and beat well, add the seasoning and beat one minute 
 longer; add the milk and stir well. Butter eight timbale 
 molds of medium size and pour the mixture into them. Set 
 them into a deep pan and pour in enough hot water to come 
 almost to the top of the molds; place in a moderate oven and 
 cook until firm in the center, from twelve to fifteen minutes; 
 turn out on a warm dish and pour a cream or tomato sauce 
 around them and garnish with small sprays of parsley stuck 
 into each timbale. 
 
 SALADS. 
 French Dressing. 
 
 Put into a tablespoon one saltspoon salt, one-half pepper- 
 spoon pepper and fill with oil; mix well together and pour it 
 over the salad; add two tablespoons more of oil and toss the 
 salad well, lastly add one tablespoon sharp vinegar. Sufficient 
 for six persons if used on green salad; for cooked vegetables 
 use twice or three times the measure. 
 
 Mayonnaise Dressing. 
 
 Put into a cold bowl the yolks of three eggs and beat until 
 they are very light and thick; add one level teaspoon of salt, 
 half saltspoon of cayenne and a few drops of olive oil; continue 
 beating until it is too thick to turn the beater easily, add lemon 
 juice to thin it, alternate with more oil until two tablespoons of 
 lemon juice have been added; then add vinegar to the same 
 amount. Use just enough oil to make the sauce of the right 
 consistence. Mayonnaise will keep indefinitely if kept air-tight 
 in a dark place. If preferred, use all vinegar and no lemon 
 juice, or all lemon juice and no vinegar. 
 
 White Mayonnaise. 
 
 One-half cup highly seasoned veal jelly whipped to a stiff 
 froth. Add slowly one-half pint oil, six tablespoons tarragon 
 vinegar, one-half teaspoon salt, one-quarter teaspoon white 
 pepper, one-half saltspoon sugar, dust of cayenne. Set into a 
 bowl of ice water and beat till stiff enough to keep its form 
 when dropped from a spoon. 
 
 Salad Dressing Without Oil. 
 
 Two eggs, one tablespoon mixed mustard, one-half teaspoon 
 salt, a piece of butter the size of an egg, three tablespoons of 
 vinegar, one tablespoon sugar. Beat the eggs, then add the 
 mustard, salt and sugar, beat a little more, then add the melted 
 butter and the vinegar. Set the bowl over boiling water and 
 stir constantly until thick and smooth. Use cold; add a cup of 
 whipped cream, the last thing.— Mrs. Isaac Gale, Natick, Mass. 
 
 Bacon Fat Dressing. 
 
 Cut one-fourth pound very fat bacon or ham into small dice. 
 
 J'ry gently till the oil turns a light brown color; remove from 
 he lire and add one-third vinegar to two-thirds bacon fat. 
 Pour over a salad already seasoned with pepper, salt and such 
 herbs as are wished. If the bits of bacon are objectionable 
 pour through a strainer, but their savory crispness is generally 
 an improvement. 
 
 Melted Butter Dressing. 
 
 Put the yolks of two raw eggs with an ounce of butter in a 
 nice pan ami set by the side of the lire, si ir rapidly until the 
 butter is melted and the sauce begins to thicken; draw the pan 
 away from the lire, add another ounce of butter and conti 
 working to a cream, repeat with two more ounces of butter, add 
 pepper and salt to taste and pour into a sauce-bowl. A few 
 leaves of tarragon finely chopped and a squeeze of lemon should 
 be added just before serving. 
 
 Potato Salad Dressing. 
 
 Rub two mealy potatoes to a paste with one raw egg yolk, 
 season with salt and pepper, thin with vinegar. A little oil 
 rubbed in before adding all the vinegar is a great improvement. 
 — Tlios. J. Murrey. 
 
 Boiled Dressing. 
 Cook one teaspoon of Hour in one tablespoon of butter two 
 minutes; add half teaspoon each of sugar, salt and mustard, 
 and one-fourth saltspoon of cayenne, then pour into it slowly 
 one-half cup of boiling hot vinegar, then one egg beaten smooth, 
 beating thoroughly while pouring into the liquid. Cook one 
 minute and set away to cool; thin it with cream when readv to 
 use. In summer use cream that is just a little sour. This 
 dressing should be made a little thinner for potato salad than 
 for any other. This is particularly nice for cold slaw, and 
 should be poured hot over the chopped cabbage. 
 
 Cream Salad Dressing. 
 
 Rub the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs to a smooth paste; 
 add gradually to them one teaspoon salt, one-fourth teaspoon 
 sugar, one-half saltspoon cayenne, one teaspoon mustard and 
 two tablespoons vinegar; have one pint cream very cold and 
 whip it till thick and smooth; beat this, a tablespoon at a time, 
 into the mixture with a whisk. 
 
 Lobster Salad Dressing. 
 
 Remove the green fat and pink gravy from a boiled lobster. 
 Rub to a smooth paste with the yolk of one raw and one hard- 
 boiled egg. Season with salt and pepper, a little mustard if 
 liked and as much oil as will blend smoothly. Thin with lemon 
 juice. Crawfish and crabs furnish a large amount of creamy 
 paste that is excellent when treated in the same way, to be used 
 for itself or other fish. 
 
 Almond Salad Dressing. 
 
 Blanch and peel twelve sweet and four bitter almonds, soak 
 them in cold water an hour, drain and pound in a mortar with 
 a few drops of lemon juice, salt and pepper enough to season 
 well. Add by degrees a few spoons of sherry, to make it the 
 consistency of thin cream. This is good on sliced fruits. 
 
 Chicken Salad. 
 
 Cut cold chicken, roasted is best, into quarter inch dice. 
 Use only the breast and tender fillets from the thighs. Marin- 
 ate a pint with once the measure of French dressing and set 
 away to season and chill. At serving time add an equal bulk 
 of diced celery, and enough mayonnaise to moisten thoroughly. 
 Arrange on a bed of torn lettuce and garnish with cress or tiny 
 gherkius or stoned olives. Drop a large spoon of mayonnaise 
 on top and fringe it round with the finest celery tips. 
 
 Veal Salad. 
 
 The meat may very well be the remainder of a roast of the 
 previous day. Trim away carefully all fat and gristle and cut 
 in dice. Serve with lettuce and a French dressing, or a more 
 elaborate mayonnaise, as one prefers. Garden cress or pepper- 
 grass is a good addition. 
 
 ' Oyster Salad. 
 
 For a one pound can or a solid pint of oysters use the follow- 
 ing dressing: Beat well two eggs, add to "them one-fourth cup 
 each of cream and vinegar, one-half teaspoon each of mus- 
 tard, celery salt and salt, a dust of cayenne, one tablespoon 
 butter. Put into double boiler and cook like soft custard. Par- 
 boil the oysters, drain them and add the dressing. Set away to 
 cool and at serving time add one pint diced celery. 
 
 Deep Sea Salad. 
 
 Make ready a block of ice as for raw oysters, only with a 
 deeper hole, to contain the salad. Preparean oyster salad as 
 directed. Arrange a bed of parsley and celery tips around the 
 block of ice, placing large clam shells at each end to hold extra 
 mayonnaise; pour the salad into the hole and garnish with 
 brussels sprouts and olives cut in spirals. 
 
4C 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 I 
 
 Scallop Salad. 
 
 Scald the scallops in salted boiling water for three minutes. 
 When cold, cut each one in two. Put these in a salad bowl and 
 dress with French dressing and crisp, young lettuce leaves. 
 
 Lobster Salad. 
 
 Chop the meat rather fine, season highly, especially with salt 
 and mustard. Pour over French dressing or some mayonnaise 
 well thinned with vinegar, and set away to season through. 
 At serving time add about one-half its bulk of lettuce stalks 
 and Arm leaves broken small, mix in plenty of mayonnaise and 
 serve in the cleaned shells. Garnish with small lettuce leaves 
 and the small claws, or if canned fish is used, serve on a bed of 
 torn lettuce, garnishing as before. Shrimps, crabs and crawfish 
 are prepared in the same way. 
 
 Fish Salad. 
 
 Break cold cooked halibut or any white delicate fish into con- 
 venient pieces, removing all skin, bones and fat, marinate with 
 tarragon or spiced vinegar and set one side for an hour; arrange 
 on leaves of lettuce and serve with mayonnaise or sauce tartare. 
 
 Chopped Cabbage. 
 
 Select a fine, white cabbage, or if preferred, use a red cabbage. 
 Shred very fine with a sharp knife. Heap in a dish, pour over 
 it a dressing made by stirring together one tablespoon salad 
 oil or melted butter, a little salt and pepper, and one-half tea- 
 cup good vinegar. Mix well through the cabbage when ready 
 to serve. Or use boiled dressing. 
 
 Bean Salad. 
 
 One cup of beans soaked over night, in the morning pour 
 off the water, put enough fresh water on them to boil until 
 thoroughly done. When cool, add an onion about the size of 
 an English walnut chopped very fine, and moisten the whole 
 with a mayonnaise dressing seasoned rather highly with salt, 
 pepper, cayenne and mustard. 
 
 Potato Salad. 
 
 For each quart of cold baked or boiled potatoes, allow one 
 cucumber, one cup of diced celery, and one measure of boiled 
 dressing. In mixing do not stir, but lift carefully and turn 
 over. 
 
 Hungarian Potato Salad. 
 
 Take small potatoes, boil, and peel while warm. Slice very 
 thin. To every pint of potatoes mince one small onion, one 
 pickled beet, one fresh cucumber sliced, a Dutch herring, four 
 sardines, and a spoonful of minced cold boiled ham. Mix all 
 together and pour over a teacup of vinegar. Garnish with 
 walnut pickles. 
 
 German Potato Salad. 
 
 Choose small potatoes; imported ones are best, but new pota- 
 toes will do if carefully cooked and well drained. Peel them 
 and set aside to cool while making the following dressing: 
 Cut one-quarter pound fat bacon into smallest possible dice, 
 put them into a frying pan over a slow fire; shred an onion 
 into a large bowl, add a small tablespoon of salt, one cup of 
 vinegar and hot water (half and half). When the fat is a light 
 brown color and the dice well crisped, add two tablespoons of 
 salad oil and pour it into the vinegar and onion, turning in 
 slowly at first lest it spatter. Slice the potatoes as thin as pos- 
 sible, stirring often; if the salad is too dry, add a little hot 
 water from time to time. It should have a glossy look, with- 
 out being either lumpy or greasy. If it looks good, it is pretty 
 sure to taste good. Best eaten as soon as made. 
 
 Mixed Vegetable Salads. 
 
 Vegetable salads can be made of any kind of cooked veg- 
 etables, but some kinds combine better than others. Peas, 
 string or shell beans, cauliflower, asparagus and young carrots 
 combine well, turnips, carrots, beets, cabbage, spinach,, toma- 
 toes, make another combination, but it is generally best 'to use 
 potatoes for the body of the salad, adding other vegetables to 
 give color and flavor. A large variety of vegetables is known 
 as "Salade Macedoine," or sometimes Russian salad. Each 
 vegetable should be cooked and cut separately, then mixed 
 lightly in a bowl with French dressing and set on ice to cool 
 before serving. Rub the salad bowls with a cut onion before 
 arranging the salad, and if it is liked very moist and highly 
 seasoned, double the quantity of dressing or send a bowl of 
 mayonnaise to the table with it. Garnish with nasturtium in 
 the season and cut them up with the salad. Sliced gherkins, 
 
 >- nickled beets, marinated eggs, Thon Marine make savory 
 
 ornamishes. 
 
 Celery Knobs. 
 
 The solid part at the bottom of celerv plants, scraped, 
 boiled till tender and served with French dressing are excellent, 
 being much more delicate than the celery root. (Celeriac.) 
 
 Cauliflower Salad. 
 
 Separate the sprigs of cold boiled cauliflower, put into the 
 salad dish a head of lettuce and cover it with mayonnaise. 
 Arrange the cauliflower sprigs around the dish heads outward 
 and serve. 
 
 Artichoke Bottoms. 
 
 Those prepared by Dunbar and sold at all well supplied 
 groceries will answer as well as the fresh. Drain from the 
 liquor in the can and season with oil, salt, pepper and vinegar, 
 set on ice and at serving time lay a small shape of truffled pate 
 de foie gras (also canned) on each one, or sprinkle with grated 
 cheese. Good either with or without mayonnaise. 
 
 Breakfast Salad. 
 
 Scald two ripe tomatoes, peel them, put them in cold water 
 or fine ice to become cold; drain, and either slice or divide into 
 sections. Peel and slice very thin one cucumber; line a salad 
 bowl with crisp lettuce leaves, add the tomatoes and cucumber, 
 a teaspoon of minced parsley, with a few blades of chives, if 
 possible add a few green tarragon leaves. Over all pour a plain 
 salad dressing of olive oil, vinegar, salt and pepper. 
 
 Tomato and Cucumber Salad. 
 
 Peel as many small ripe tomatoes as there are to be covers. 
 Remove the hearts and set on ice to become cold. Pare cucum- 
 bers quite close to the seeds and chop them coarsely. Pour 
 over a French dressing and fill them lightly into the tomatoes. 
 Serve each on a crisp lettuce leaf. 
 
 Farmers' Salad. 
 
 In spring and early summer the tender plants of dandelion 
 are a most appetizing and wholesome salad. Pick over and 
 wash carefully, lay in ice cold water four hours to become crisp. 
 Break coarsely and serve with bacon dressing. 
 
 Murrey recommends adding fresh made cottage cheese, salt, 
 pepper, vinegar and young onions. 
 
 Water Cress Salad. 
 
 Water cress is a very acceptable spring salad plant, and its 
 pungent flavor is considered a good whet for jaded palates. 
 A plain salad dressing is the most appropriate. Small herbs, 
 such as chives, borage, chervil, etc., may be added if liked. 
 
 Chicory Salad. 
 
 Select two fine heads of chicory; cut off the root end and 
 reject all green and all decayed leaves; wash the white leaves 
 in cold water and dry them in a napkin. Rub a salad bowl 
 with a clove of garlic, put the crisp white leaves in the bowl. 
 Toss the salad gently with French dressing, then add a table- 
 spoon of vinegar, toss again and serve. A little chervil, borage 
 or chives will improve it for many palates. 
 
 Salad in Jelly. 
 
 Make aspic jelly No. 1. Fill bottom of salad dish with a little 
 of the jelly and set on ice. "When hard set in the salad dish on 
 top of the jelly, a bowl large enough to hold the desired amount 
 of salad, and fill bowl with ice; pour jelly around until almost 
 reaching the top of bowl, when the jelly is hard remove ice 
 from bowl and fill with warm water for a moment only; then 
 remove bowl from jelly, being careful not to break the jelly. 
 Make any of the ordinary salads, such as chicken, veal, lobster, 
 shrimp or nice red tomatoes sliced with a little green, as celery, 
 lettuce, etc., mixed through here and there. Place salad in the 
 space left in the jelly and cover salad with the remaining jelly; 
 after it has become a little hard set aside in ice box. When 
 wanted set dish in warm water a moment and turn salad out on 
 a platter; have a mayonnaise dressing ready to serve with 
 salad. Remember in making this salad the bottom of dish 
 will be the top when turned out. 
 
 This is especially pretty to be arranged in a border mold, and 
 after turning out fill the center with more of the meat mixed 
 with mayonnaise. 
 
 Devonshire Salad. 
 
 Choose soft, yet firm curd of cottage cheese, cut in inch dice, 
 season with salt, pepper and cayenne and serve on lettuce with 
 mayonnaise. Garnish with nasturtium. 
 
 
WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 49 
 
 Strawberry Salad. 
 
 Choose the heart leaves of head lettuce, heap a few straw- 
 berries in each and dust them lightly with powdered sugar; lay 
 a teaspoon of mayonnaise on each portion and serve cut lemons 
 with them ; delicious for lunch. 
 
 Orange Salad. 
 
 For six persons pare four rather acid oranges, slice them 
 very thin, cutting down the sides instead of across, and sprinkle 
 sparingly with sugar. Mix one tablespoon sherry with one of 
 yellow Chartreuse and one of lemon juice and pour it over the 
 fruit, Set on ice an hour before using. Serve before the game 
 course. 
 
 Fruit Salad. 
 
 Half pound of almonds, blanched and grated, four oranges, 
 pared and sliced, one can of pineapple grated, three bananas, or 
 peaches, pears, French cherries, strawberries or other fruits, in 
 like proportion. Alternate the layers of fruit with layers of 
 powdered sugar, and reserve the almonds for the top layer, to be 
 garnished with strawberries or other small bright fruits; then 
 add the following dressing, and cool: 
 
 Half cup of lemon juice, two tablespoons of sherry and two 
 tablespoons of liqueur, preferably Maraschino. 
 
 Cranberries can be used instead of strawberries, if stewed 
 until quite soft, with a good deal of sugar. 
 
 Grated cocoanut can be used instead of almonds. 
 
 Fig Salad. 
 
 Put into a salad bowl half a pint of honey; add to this twenty 
 five fresh figs; whip one quart cream, flavored with one table- 
 spoon brandy. 
 
 SAVORIES. 
 Digestibility of Cheese. 
 
 The digestibility of cheese depends a good deal, according to 
 Klenz6, on its physical properties. All fat cheeses are dissolved 
 or digested with great rapidity, because the molecules of case- 
 ine are separated by the fat, and so the solvent juice can 
 attack a large surface of the cheese at one time. Whether the 
 cheese be hard or soft does not appear to matter, and there is 
 no connection between the digestibility and the percentage of 
 water present in the cheese. The degree of ripeness and the 
 amount of fat have, however, considerable influence; for both 
 these conditions render the cheese more friable, and so allow 
 intimate contact with the juices of digestion. Cheddar takes 
 the shortest time to digest, four hours; while unripe Swiss 
 cheese took ten hours for solution. 
 
 In cooking cheese in any form it is well to add bi-carbonate 
 of potash in the proportion of one-fourth saltspoon to four 
 ounces of cheese. This restores the potash salts lost from the 
 milk in the process of cheese making, and renders it more 
 digestible. 
 
 Cheese Souffle. 
 
 Make a thin, white sauce, with one teaspoon butter, two and 
 one-half table spoons flour, three-quarters pint milk; add four 
 ounces cheese grated and mixed with the yolks of four eggs, 
 fold in the stiffly beaten whites and bake at once in paper cases 
 or scallop shells. 
 
 Cheese au Gratin. 
 
 Three slices bread, trim off the crust and butter well. Place 
 in a deep pudding dish, buttered side down, and lay one-quarter 
 pound of chipped or grated cheese between the slices and on 
 top, seasoning with salt and pepper to taste (about one-quarter 
 teaspoon salt and a dust of cayenne). Beat four eggs, add 
 three cups milk, pour it over the "bread and let stand one hour 
 or more. Bake twenty to thirty minutes in a rather quick 
 oven. 
 
 Cottage Cheese. (Schmier-Kiise.) 
 Set a gallon or more of thick sour milk into warm water or 
 ■n a warm oven until it reaches a temperature of 180° (Fahr.). 
 T&i it stand at that temperature for an hour or more, until the 
 ■S-hev is well separated and the curd feels firm all the way through. 
 Turn gently on to a coarse thin clo.h and hang up to drain several 
 hours. Turn from the bag and chop in dice, dressing with salt 
 and cream, either sweet or sour, according to taste; or mix salt 
 and cream through the mass, working it fine with the hands. 
 
 Welsh Rabbit. 
 
 Take one-half pound cheese (American cheese preferred), 
 three tablespoons ale, a thin slice of toast; grate the cheese 
 ane, put it to the ale, and work it in a small saucepan over a 
 slow lire till it is melted, spread it on toast and serve hot. (If 
 ale is not at hand, use beer or milk.) 
 
 Welsh Rabbit an Gratin. 
 
 Prepare six slices thin toast. Cover each slice with Swiss 
 cheese cut half inch thick. Lay them in a dripping-pan and 
 dust lightly with pepper or spread made mustard over. Set in 
 a hot oven till well melted, about ten minutes. The addition of 
 a dropped egg to each slice makes what is called a Golden Buck. 
 
 Nalenikis. 
 
 Prepare as above, but dip each one in fritter batter and fry 
 to delicate brown. Dry for a few minutes in the oven.— Helen 
 Campbell. 
 
 Cheese Fritters. 
 
 Pre D are fritter batter No. 3, add to it eight heaping table- 
 spoons of dry grated cheese, fry according to directions and 
 serve with a little grated cheese sprinkled over. 
 
 Ramaquins. 
 
 4 tablespoons grated cheese. 2 ounces bread, grated. 
 2 tablespoons butter. J teaspoon mustard. 
 
 1 gill milk Cayenne and salt to taste. 
 
 Yolks two'eggs. Whites three eggs. 
 
 Put bread and mdk to boil until smooth, stirring often; add 
 cheese and butter and remove from the fire. As soon as the 
 butter has melted stir in the yolks of the eggs and seasoning. 
 Let cool a little before adding the stiffly beaten whites. Bake 
 in small china dishes and serve at once as they soon fall.— M rs. 
 Henderson. 
 
 Anchovy Toast. 
 
 Six anchovies, two hard boiled eggs, two ounces butter, six 
 croutes of bread, cayenne, lemon juice. Wash and bone the 
 anchovies, and pound them to a paste with the egg yolk, butter 
 and cayenne; for extra fine ones, run through a puree sieve. 
 Fry rounds of bread, spread with the above paste, and spread 
 over them the whites of the egg chopped very fine. 
 
 Devilled Toast. 
 
 Have the bread toasted crisp, and hard crust removed. Beat 
 together one teaspoon butter, one-half teaspoon mustard, a few 
 grains cayenne, one teaspoon Worcestershire sauce. Spread on 
 the toast, cut in strips and set in the oven to become very hot 
 before serving. 
 
 Savory Toast. 
 
 Made like the above with sardines, herring, or even mackerel, 
 is extremely good. A dash of lemon juice is an improvement 
 to most kinds of fish. 
 
 Ham Toast. 
 
 Three ounces lean ham, one ounce butter, chopped parsley, 
 pepper and salt to taste. Mince ham very fine, put it into a 
 stewpan with the butter and seasoning. Shake until it comes 
 to the boiling point. Serve at once on buttered toast. 
 
 Clam Toast. 
 
 Chop two dozen small clams into small pieces: simmer a few 
 minutes. Beat the yolks of two eggs, add a little cayenne and 
 a gill of warmed milk. Pour into the clams, let come to the 
 point of simmering, pour over buttered toast and serve. 
 
 Cheese Toast. 
 
 Mince the cheese fine, season to taste with salt, cayenne and 
 mustard, and spread thickly over buttered bread. Set under 
 the gas broiler or into a very hot oven until well browned. 
 Serve at once. 
 
 Tomato Toast. 
 
 Two tomatoes, two eggs, one ounce butter, one ounce ham, 
 a scrap of onion, pepper and salt. Six small rounds of but- 
 tered toast. Wipe and chop the tomatoes well. Mince the 
 onion and ham, and cook them with the butter in a saiicepan 
 about ten minutes, remove from the fire to add the beaten egg, 
 stir over the fire till it sets, then serve on the toast. 
 
If the housekeeper who is so tired of the same old way of 
 preparing vegetables would only study the art of cooking she 
 need never want for variety. 
 
 A little patience and skill, the use of good judgment, and a 
 proper degree of industry will render the task easy. 
 
 Such a number of dishes may be readily made that all house- 
 keepers should see that several vegetables appear daily on their 
 tables. 
 
 Artichokes. 
 
 Cut the stalks close and clip the sharp points from the leaves; 
 wash in vinegar and water and lay in cold salted water for an 
 hour to drive out insects. Cook in boiling salted water till 
 tender enough to draw out the leaves easily, about forty 
 minutes, but they must not go to pieces. Turn them upside 
 down to drain. Serve hot with Bechamel or Hollandaise sauce, 
 or cold with French dressing. To keep them green tie some 
 charcoal in muslin and boil with them. 
 
 Artichokes a la Barigoule. 
 
 Wash as above, parboil just long enough to remove the choke 
 and throw them into cold water for five minutes. Put them to 
 drain while preparing a forcemeat. Mince fine four ounces fat 
 pork and fry it a little with two tablespoons chopped shallots; 
 then add a pint of chopped mushrooms and parsley and simmer 
 ten minutes. Blend with it one tablespoon flour kneaded with 
 butter, one-half cup Spanish sauce, salt, pepper and a speck of 
 nutmeg. Fill the artichokes and tie them with a string. 
 Brown the outside well with a little olive oil in a sautoir; then 
 add one-half pint broth and a small glass white wine. Cover 
 and cook forty minutes in a moderate hot oven. Serve in a hot 
 dish, pouring the sauce over and around them. Place a whole 
 mushroom on top of each.— Adapted from "The Table." 
 
 Jerusalem Artichokes. 
 
 Wash and boil with the skins on in salted water till tender 
 (about thirty minutes). Drain, peel and serve in cream sauce 
 No. 1, seasoning very well. Let them lie in the sauce for 
 fifteen minutes to season before serving. 
 
 Au Gratin. 
 Boil as above and proceed as for cauliflower. 
 
 Baked. 
 
 Boil until about half done, then peel and put into a baking- 
 dish with one tablespoon butter, salt and pepper to taste. Dust 
 with one teaspoon powdered sugar and bake a good brown. 
 Baste with butter after it begins to brown. 
 
 Puree. 
 
 Cook in strong broth instead of water. Peel and put through 
 a puree sieve, season with salt, butter and pepper and serve 
 with braised beef, veal or chicken. 
 
 Asparagus, No. 1. 
 
 Wash carefully two bunches green asparagus, cut the ends 
 until the tender part is reached. Arrange in one large bundle 
 and fasten with a broad band of coarse muslin, pinned at each 
 side. Boil gently in salted water until done, about twenty 
 minutes. Serve with Hollandaise sauce. 
 
 Asparagus, No. 2. 
 Cut the tender parts in bits as long as the stems are thick 
 and boil till tender. Drain and add to two bunches one-half 
 cup cream, one-quarter teaspoon salt. Simmer till reduced to 
 a thick sauce and serve like green peas. 
 
 Asparagus with Eggs. 
 
 Boil two pounds of the vegetables; cut off the tender tops I 
 and lay them on a buttered pie-dish, seasoning with pepper and 
 salt and two tablespoons of melted butter. Beat four eggs just 
 enough to break the yolks, and pour over the asparagus. Bake 
 eight minutes in a good oven and serve with slices of tender 
 broiled ham.; 
 
 "Asparagus in Ambush." 
 
 Have ready some small, light rolls — one for each guest. 
 Cut off the tops to serve as covers; take out all the crumb and 
 lay the rolls in the oven for their tops to crisp. Meanwhile 
 heat a cup of milk to boiling point and pour it into two beaten 
 eggs, beating well to prevent curdling; add a spoon of butter, 
 cut in bits and rolled in flour, and the soft parts of two pounds 
 of asparagus that has been boiled and cut fine. Stir the 
 mixture, seasoning to taste; fill the roll, put on the tops and 
 serve hot. 
 
 String Beans. 
 
 Snap, rather than cut with a knife, into pieces one-half inch 
 long. Unless they are very fresh they will be improved by 
 lying in ice-cold water an hour or more before cooking. Throw 
 into fast boiling water and cook rapidly, uncovered, for an hour 
 at least; they will generally need much more. Change the 
 water at the end of the first half hour and they will season 
 better if an ounce or two of fat salt meat is cooked with them. 
 The water should be allowed to nearly all cook away and the 
 remainder may be used to make a drawn butter sauce to pour 
 over them; or they may be seasoned with only butter and salt. 
 If the water is very hard, a bit of bi-carbonate of soda as large 
 as a pea will make them more tender. 
 
 String Beans, German Fashion. 
 
 Remove the strings from one quart of beans. Cut each pod 
 through twice lengthwise, then cut into two-inch lengths. 
 After parboiling, put into the stewpan an ounce of butter, a 
 teaspoon sugar, pepper and salt to taste. Saute a few minutes 
 till the butter is absorbed, then add a very little stock or water, 
 a little lemon juice, and simmer until perfectly tender. 
 
 Shelled Beans. 
 
 Wash, and cook in boiling soft water. Add salt about ten 
 minutes before they are done. Drain, and season with butter 
 and salt. Lima and other white beans are improved by adding 
 a little butter or fat salt pork. 
 
 Lima Beans. 
 
 Add to a pint of young Lima beans previously boiled and 
 seasoned with butter, salt and pepper, half a pint of freshly 
 gathered mushrooms. Put a tablespoon of butter in the sauce- 
 pan; when melted add beans and mushrooms, with half a gill 
 of cream; let it all simmer for about ten minutes, and serve hot. 
 
 Dried Lima beans can be made quite palatable by soaking 
 them in cold water for 48 hours, and then cooking like the 
 green ones. They will do very nicely for succotash. 
 
 Mother's Baked Beans. 
 
 One quart of navy beans; pick over carefully and soak i 
 night. In the morning, put on the back of the stove, and co'V 
 with boiling water. After they have parboiled half an hou 
 take up a spoonful and blow on them; if the skin curls back, 
 they are clone. Put them in a colander, and pour a dipper of 
 cold water through them. Take a deep earthen bean pot hold- 
 ing two quarts; put in some of the beans, then half a pound of 
 
 , 4 
 
 hoi. 
 back. " 
 

 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 51 
 
 salt pork, — "a streak of fat and a streak of lean" (the pork 
 must be washed with warm water and gashed across the top) — 
 then (ill up with beans. Take one teaspoon of salt, half a tea- 
 spoon of mustard, and two teaspoons of molasses; dissolve in 
 hot water and pour over the beans; then fill the pot with hot 
 water. They must be baked six hours, and as much longer as 
 you please. Whenever the water cooks away, fill the pot again, 
 until nearly done, then let the water cook away. 
 
 Beets. 
 
 Brush and scrub well, but do not cut. Lay into boiling 
 water and boil rapidly till tender, for new beets about 45 min- 
 utes, for old beets two to three hours. Plunge into cold water 
 and slip the skins off by hand. Cut in eighths lengthwise, and 
 pour over a sauce made with two tablespoons butter, four 
 tablespoons lemon juice, one-half teaspoon salt, sprinkle cay- 
 enne, boil up once and pour hot over the beats just before they 
 go to the table. 
 
 Brussels Sprouts. 
 
 Cut the sprouts from two medium sized stalks, pick off all 
 tarnished leaves, and lay them for an hour in salted water. 
 Drain them well and cook in plenty of boiling water, uncovered, 
 till tender, from ten minutes to half an hour, according to their 
 age. Drain in a colander and serve with a Bechamel or Hol- 
 landaise sauce. 
 
 Brocculi. 
 
 Cook like Brussels sprouts, and while draining prepare three- 
 fourths pint of yellow Bechamel. Lay a slice of buttered toast 
 in a deep platter, arrange the largest head in the middle and 
 smaller ones around it. Pour the sauce over and around them. 
 
 Cucumbers Stuffed and Stewed. 
 
 Cut in half lengthwise, scoop out the seeds and fill the hollow 
 with a bread or meat stuffing, or with quenelle mixture. Lay in 
 a sautoir, with butter enough to keep from sticking. Simmer 
 till the juice Mows freely, then add a little good broth, and boil 
 gently till very tender. Lift the slices, reduce the juice to a 
 glaze, which may be dissolved in enough velvet sauce to cover. 
 
 Fried Cucumbers. 
 
 Slice, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip ia egg, then in 
 cracker dust; fry brown. 
 
 Cabbage. 
 
 Choose a cabbage like an orange, by its weight. Remove the 
 outside coarse leaves, cut in quarters, take out the inner etem, 
 especially the coarse fibers that run between the leaves and the 
 stem; lay it face down in salted water for an hour — longer if 
 old and wilted; boil in pleuty of water, three quarts of water 
 to two pounds of cabbage, drain and fill again with boiling 
 water, cook till tender, when young and crisp forty minutes, 
 longer if old. Drain in a colander; cut, turn and press 
 repeatedly, keeping hot in an oven. Dress as desired. 
 
 No. 1. Allow one tablespoon butter to each pound of cab- 
 bage; salt, vinegar and cayenne to taste. 
 
 No. 2. One cup of cream sauce No. 1 to each pound. 
 
 No. 3. One cup brown sauce (made like white sauce), but let 
 the butter and flour brown a little and use good brown stock 
 for milk. 
 
 No. 4 Put the cooked cabbage in a buttered baking dish 
 after chopping line and seasoning with salt, pepper and two 
 beaten eggs diluted with three tablespoons cream, bake in a 
 quick oven till brown. Serve hot. 
 
 No. 5. Au gratin. Put one pint plain boiled cabbage in a 
 baking dish well buttered, pour over one good cup white sauce, 
 cover with buttered crumbs and grated cheese if liked. Serve 
 in the same dish. 
 
 No. fi, stuffed. Parboil till thoroughly wilted, drain, cool, 
 unfold leaf by leaf until the heart is reached. Chop the tender 
 leaves and add to the stuffing. Two ounces fat salt pork, two 
 ounces tender beef, both chopped fine, one ounce butter, two 
 egg yolks, a scant teaspoon each of salt, parsley and minced 
 onion, one pepperspoon cayenne, one French roll soaked in 
 milk and pressed dry. Beat the egg and bread together, add 
 the creamed butter and work in the meat and seasoning. Make 
 into a ball and place in the cabbage head, refold the leaves to 
 good shape and bake three to four hours, basting often with 
 butter and a little water. Serve on a round platter with the 
 . -ravy from the pan, dashed with lemon juice. Cut like around 
 i^.-af cake. 
 
 Spring Carrots. 
 
 Wash and scrape them, parboil for ten minutes and dry them 
 on a cloth. Return to the saucepan with one heaped tablespoon 
 'sugar, one cup stock, one tablespoon butter, and boil gently 
 about half an hour or until perfectly tender then remove the 
 
 Lf 
 
 w 
 
 cover and boil fast until the stock is reduced to glaze. Sprinkle 
 with a little chopped parsley and serve with the, glaze on them. 
 These can be reheated in a white sacue and are even better 
 than at first. 
 
 Puree of Carrots. 
 
 Slice fine the outer part of a dozen carrots, one and a half pints 
 is enough, parboil ten minutes, drain, and cook gently again 
 till tender with one pint water, one teaspoon each salt and 
 sugar, and one-fourth teaspoon white pepper; add one-half 
 pound stale bread, broken into bits, and one quart veal or 
 chicken broth, simmer another hour, put it through a puree 
 sieve; if too soft allow it to cook away longer, if too dry add a 
 little broth or milk. Serve with breast of lamb, chops, or veal 
 cutlets. 
 
 Cauliflower. 
 
 Trim off outside leaves and lay blossoms down in cold salted 
 water. Slugs and other insects will drop out, especially if 
 gently shaken in the water. Tie in a piece of mosquito netting 
 and lay in boiling salted water till very tender. Drain and 
 serve with Hollandaise Sauce or Cream Sauce No. 1. This 
 makes a delicious garnish for fried spring chicken or fried 
 sweet breads. 
 
 Cauliflower with Parmesan cheese is made as above, adding 
 a teaspoon of Parmesan cheese to the sauce before it is poured 
 over the cauliflower; sprinkle melted butter over it and bake a 
 few minutes in a hot oven. 
 
 Stewed Celery. 
 
 Take ten or twelve heads of well-grown celery, cut off the 
 sticks about three inches above the root, and put the root for a 
 few minutes into salt and water, and afterwards place them in 
 a stew-pan with an onion and a bouquet of herbs; cover them 
 with stock, and cook gently till tender. Boil the stock to re- 
 duce it and pass it through a strainer; add sugar, salt and a 
 little pepper, and pour over the celery, which should be 
 arranged in the manner of cutlets on a dish. 
 
 Celery Fried in Batter. 
 
 Take small roots, or divide large ones otherwise; trim the 
 root portion smooth, and cut the stalks down to four or five 
 inches long. Cook ten minutes in boiling salted water, dry 
 quickly on a thick towel. Dip them in fritter batter and fry a 
 good brown in deep hot fat. Drain on soft paper, arrange on a 
 folded napkin and send to the table with grated cheese. 
 
 Broiled Cepes. 
 
 Open the can and pour off the oil. Drop the cepes into hot 
 water to cleanse them from the oil and dry them on a soft 
 cloth. Season w 7 ith salt and pepper, brush them with melted 
 butter and roll in flour. Broil for six minutes over a hot fire. 
 Place each one on a round of toast, pour over a little melted 
 butter and lemon juice and serve at once. 
 
 Stewed Cepes. 
 
 Free from oil as before and cut into cubes. For a pint can 
 use three tablespoons butter, one tablespoon flour, one table- 
 spoon lemon juice, one teaspoon salt, one teaspoon onion juice, 
 a dust of pepper and one-half pint stock. Melt the butter and 
 add the cepes and flour. Stir until a light coffee brown, then 
 add the stock and seasoning and set back to simmer five 
 minutes. If this is to be served as an entree, arrange on toast; 
 they make a delicious garnish for broiled fish. 
 
 Green Corn. 
 
 This most delicious of summer vegetables is frequently 
 spoiled by over-cooking. If the corn is fresh and tender as it 
 should be fifteen minutes is enough. Wrap at once in a thick 
 napkin and send to table covered, as the skin toughens if allowed 
 to dry while hot. It is sometimes cooked in the inner husk, 
 but this is not necessary except for roasting. 
 
 Corn Pagout. 
 
 Cut scraps of ham or bacon in small squares; fry brown, add 
 six ripe tomatoes peeled and sliced, and the grains cut from six 
 ears of corn; cover with boiling water, season with red pepper 
 and salt, and cook slowly half an hour. Serve hot with toast 
 or slices of fried bread. 
 
 Succotash. 
 
 Cut the grains from ten ears of corn, mix with one quart of 
 shelled Lima beans, and boil until tender, and drain. Melt 
 two tablespoons of butter and pour on the corn and beans. 
 Season with pepper and salt. Let simmer ten minutes; pour in 
 a cup of sweet cream; when hot serve. 
 
52 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 I 
 
 Cymlings, or SuThmer Squash. 
 
 Take them when young and tender. Wash, cut in thick 
 slices and boil till tender (they should not be old enough to 
 have seeds of any size); and prepare as follows: 
 
 Mashed— Press out all the water possible. Make it fine 
 and smooth, season to taste with sweet butter, white pepper 
 and salt, return to stove and simmer fifteen minutes, stirring 
 often. v 
 
 Puree — To each pint of mashed cymling add one cup rich 
 milk. Stew until thick; do not let it burn. 
 
 Dolmas — Prepare the squash as above, making the sections 
 two inches thick. Scoop out the soft center and fill with this 
 mixture: Take equal measures of minced raw mutton and 
 raw rice, season to taste — it needs cayenne — and put a bit of 
 butter on each. Range them in a buttered sautoir, in which a 
 half dozen wafers of onion have cooked. Simmer till tender. 
 Beat the yolks of five eggs, dilute with the juice of one lemon, 
 pour over the dolmas and shake to mix well with the stock. 
 Set over hot water till thick like custard. 
 
 Dandelions. 
 
 Gather only the freshly grown plants — best when the dew is 
 on them. The tenderest leaves make an exoellent salad with 
 Bacon Dressing. The whole plant, after thorough washing, 
 may be boiled until tender, drained, chopped fine, seasoned 
 with salt, vinegar and a liberal measure of butter. Those 
 Who think it too bitter may use half spinach or beet, or 
 sorrel, in which case the dandelion should be partly cooked be- 
 fore the more succulent plant is added. It cannot be too well 
 recommended. 
 
 Egg Plant Fried. 
 
 Peel and cut them in half inch slices, sprinkle with salt and 
 pepper, pile them and place a weight over for an hour or more, 
 tipping the plate slightly that the juice may drain away. Dry 
 each slice by rolling in seasoned Hour, and fry crisp in plenty 
 of sweet dripping, or dip in fritter batter No. 1 before frying. 
 
 Greens. 
 
 There is an almost unlimited number of plants used as greens. 
 The general treatment is the same for all. See spinach, page 53. 
 
 Lentils. 
 
 May be used for soup or stewed and served with butter the 
 same as beans. 
 
 Lentil Sarmas. 
 
 One-half cup lentils, one-half cup rice, one-half cup chopped 
 ham, twelve vine leaves, one-half cup chopped raw veal or 
 chicken, one-quarter teaspoon powdered coriander seed, salt 
 and cayenne to taste; mix well and tie like Sarmas, page 53. 
 Serve with a thickened sauce made from the stock in which 
 they were boiled, adding well beaten yolks of two eggs and 
 a tablespoon tarragon vinegar to each half pint. 
 
 Macaroni. 
 
 One-fourth pound macaroni broken into bits two inches long 
 will need at least three quarts of boiling salted water. Boil 
 fast, uncovered, until tender, at least half an hour and some 
 macaroni takes longer. Drain in a colander and rinse with cold 
 water; it is then ready to finish in any way preferred. 
 
 With Cheese. — Arrange alternate layers of cheese and maca- 
 roni in a heavily buttered baking dish, pour over a thin white 
 sauce or cream, or poulette, or bechamel, or tomato, according 
 to taste. Cover with buttered crumbs and bake till the crumbs 
 are brown. 
 
 In Cheese Shells.— Fill the empty shell of an Edam or 
 pineapple cheese with cooked macaroni, seasoning with grated 
 Parmesan, moisten well with thin white sauce and set into a 
 hot oven till hot through. Replace the cover and serve very hot. 
 
 With Brown Sauce. — Arrange as for serving with cheese, 
 but use Spanish sauce instead of other seasoning. Spaghetti, 
 vermicelli and noodles are all prepared and served like macaroni. 
 
 Hominy. 
 
 Soak one cup over night in cold water. In the morning drain 
 and put to cook in three cups of boiling salted water and boil 
 gently till soft; it ought to take about three hours. Fine hominy 
 can be cooked in one hour if soaked in warm water, changing it 
 once or twice for warmer. Boil in the last water. 
 
 Mushrooms. 
 
 Mushrooms are often plenty in the fields during the summer 
 and fall, and are far superior in delicacy and flavor to the culti- 
 vated ones, but they should be used while fresh. Cut off and 
 throw away the stems, pare the tops and throw them into a 
 bowl with plenty of water and a little vinegar. Use a silver 
 knife, and if the vegetables do not blacken the silver they are 
 safe to use. 
 
 Stewed Mushrooms. 
 
 Cut them in small bits after draining from the acidulated 
 water and for each pint allow a generous tablespoon of butter, 
 one-half teaspoon salt, a speck of pepper, and just enough water 
 to keep them from sticking to the sauce pan; simmer for ten 
 minutes, or, use one-half cup of cream instead of water and 
 serve on toast. 
 
 Broiled Mushrooms. 
 
 Select large ones with deep cups. Place over clear coals cup 
 side down first and cook two minutes, then turn and cook two 
 minutes on the other side, remove carefully not to spill the 
 juice and serve on buttered toast. Sprinkle with salt and pep- 
 per and lay a bit of butter on each. 
 
 Baked Mushrooms. 
 
 Lay them in a baking dish cup side up. Fill the cups with 
 any kind of chopped and seasoned meat. Cover with buttered 
 crumbs and bake in a very hot oven ten to fifteen minutes. 
 
 Onions. 
 
 Peel under warm water, cut a small slice from each end and 
 let lie in cold water with a pinch of soda for an hour. Put into 
 boiling water to cook adding one saltspoon of soda to each 
 quart. As soon as they begin to soften change the water and 
 finish cooking in salted water. Drain thoroughly and serve 
 with bread sauce, or a bechamel, or with only butter, salt and 
 pepper. They are excellent baked; for this, choose large ones, 
 and after they are parboiled in the soda water, dry them care- 
 fully, wrap each one in a buttered paper, lay in a baking-pan and 
 cook in a very hot oven till they can be pierced with a straw. 
 Serve with Spanish sauce. 
 
 Okra. 
 
 Cut stems to the tender part of the pod, cook whole in boil- 
 ing salted water (If cooked in iron they will blacken.) until ten- 
 der; drain and return to the sauce pan with plenty of butter, a 
 taste of vinegar, salt and pepper; simmer slowly until they are 
 thoroughly seasoned. They are nice sliced and stewed with an 
 equal bulk of tomato, seasoned with one sweet pepper, one 
 teaspoon salt and one ounce of butter to each pint. Sometimes 
 one-quarter cup rice and one-quarter pound of diced ham are 
 added to a quart of the above stew. 
 
 Fried Okra. 
 
 Slice two onions, and fry with bits of fat bacon. Cut a quart 
 of okra and stir in; fry brown. Sprinkle with salt and cayenne 
 pepper. — Eliza R. Parker. 
 
 Parsnips. 
 
 Brush clean and lay in cold water to become crisp. Cook in 
 boiling salted water till tender. Throw into cold water to slip 
 the skins, and serve either plain or mashed; season with butter, 
 salt and pepper, or with a thin cream sauce. 
 
 They are more savory if they can be cut in round slices, 
 sprinkled with salt, pepper and sugar, and browned in a little 
 ham or bacon fat, or dipped in fritter batter No. 2 before 
 frying. 
 
 Peas. 
 
 Green peas should never grow to fill the pods quite full. If 
 taken while still young and shelled at the last moment before 
 cooking, and cooked the same day they are picked, they are 
 rightly esteemed one of the best of summer vegetables. If 
 the pods are gritty, wash them before shelling, as much of the 
 fine flavor is lost by washing the peas. Have ready boiling 
 salted water enough to float them, and boil rapidly uncovered 
 for fifteen to twenty minutes. Try them and take up the in- 
 stant they are done. For one pint of peas, put into the water 
 in which they were cooked one ounce of butter, a saitspoon 
 each of salt and sugar. Let it reduce until there is just 
 enough to moisten the peas well and serve hot. Two or three 
 tablespoons of sweet rich cream are sometimes used instead of 
 the butter and pea-broth, but it makes them too rich and cloy- 
 ing to serve with meat. 
 
 Stuffed Green Peppers. 
 
 Wash half a dozen large green peppers, put them in boiling 
 water five minutes, rub off the skins with a wet cloth, cut ol 
 the stem, remove the seeds and stuff the peppers with any kinover 
 of cold meat minced fine and an equal quantity of stale bread, 'er 
 Replace the stems, set the peppers in a deep dish, pour in as t, 
 much cold gravy as the dish will hold and bake in a moderate 
 oven for half an hour. They may be stuffed with sausage meat 
 and bread. Serve in the dish in which they are baked. 
 

 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 53 
 
 Potato. (New.) 
 
 Wash and scrub well, but do not peel. Put into boiling 
 Baited water, enough to cover two inches, and cook rapidly lor 
 fifteen to twenty minutes. Pour off all the water, and if the 
 potatoes are not quite tender, set them in a hot place, covered, 
 to steam until they are. When they are done, sprinkle with 
 salt, shake them till the skins crack and serve in a folded nap- 
 kin. It is better to pare winter potatoes before cooking them, 
 and they are usually better for lying some time in cold water; 
 otherwise cook like new potatoes. 
 
 Baked Potatoes should have a thin slice cut from each 
 end, as this helps them to become mealy and take away the 
 strong earthy taste of "the eyes.' 
 
 Potato Au Gratia. 
 
 Cut cold potato in one-quarter inch dice and arrange in a 
 dish, seasoning each layer. Pour over an equal bulk of thin 
 Bechamel sauce and bake in a very hot oven till brown. 
 
 Potato Lyonnaise. 
 
 Put two tablespoons of butter into a frying pan, when 
 melted add an onion, chopped line; cook two or three minutes; 
 add six cold boiled potatoes, sliced, well seasoned with pepper 
 and salt; saute a nice light brown. Just before serving, add a 
 teaspoon of linely chopped parsley and a few drops lemon juice. 
 
 Potato. (Fried.) 
 
 Cut cold boiled potatoes in slices and season with salt and 
 pepper. Have frying pan hot, with just enough dripping to 
 cover the bottom. Brown the slices on both sides and keep 
 hot till all are fried. These are a delightful garnish for break- 
 fast ham. 
 
 Potato, French. (Fried.) 
 
 Pare the potatoes and throw into cold water for at least an 
 hour. Cut in slices, blocks, strips, balls or any fancy shape, 
 and dry them on a towel. Drop quickly into fat hot enough to 
 brown them by the time they come to the surface. They are 
 done when they float. Skim into a draining basket and set in 
 the oven to keep hot, either as a garnish or for a vegetable. 
 
 Hashed Potatoes. 
 
 Chop cold boiled potatoes, new ones are best, into bits the 
 size of a peanut. Season with salt, pepper and chopped 
 parsley, and for one quart potato allow three tablespoons butter. 
 Heat the butter and toss the potatoes in it till they begin to 
 show a little brown, then add one-quarter cup thin cream, and 
 set back to brown on the bottom. Fold like an omelet and 
 serve, or gather into a mound with the brown crust on top. 
 
 Potato Puff. 
 
 Take two cups mashed potato, stir into it two tablespoons of 
 melted butter, beat to a white cream; add two eggs, beaten 
 very light; a teacup cream or milk, and salt to taste. Bake in 
 a deep dish, in a quick oven, until nicely browned. Take four 
 eggs, add the yolks and omelet lirst, then fold in the whites as 
 for omelet and it will be an elegant souffle'. 
 
 Potato Croquettes en Surprise. 
 
 Prepare as usual (page 40), but fold in the center of each 
 croquette a roll of very creamy chicken croquette paste. 
 
 Plantation Sweet Potato. 
 
 Cut cold cooked sweet potatoes in rather thick slices. 
 
 Put 
 
 them in a deep dish with pepper, salt and butter, pour on a 
 little milk, enough to barely show between the pieces, and bake 
 in a moderate oven one hour. 
 
 Sugar Potato or Candied Yams. 
 
 Parboil, peel and cut in quarter inch slices. Put the slices 
 into a heavy syrup made in the proportion of one cup white 
 sugar to one-quarter cup water, and one teaspoon butter. Sim- 
 mer gently for an hour, then let the syrup boil away till it is 
 almost dry. Serve with meats. 
 
 Rice, Steamed. 
 
 Pour two cups of boiling water on one cup well washed rice, 
 add one level teaspoon of salt. Cook in double boiler thirty 
 gdnutes, or till soft. If too dry at the end of twenty minutes 
 ffdd a little more boiling water. 
 
 Rice, Boiled. 
 
 Have ready four quarts of boiling salted water. Throw in 
 one cup rice and let boil fast, uncovered, until the kernels open. 
 Brain in a colander, cover with cloth, keep warm twenty 
 minutes, shake up light three times. 
 
 Curried Kice. 
 
 Mix one teaspoon curry powder with one eup gravy or white 
 sauce and pour over nee boiled as above. Good with veal or 
 mutton in any style. 
 
 Tomatoes. 
 
 To be served raw should be peeled and set on ice at least an 
 hour before using. Have boiling fast a kettle of water large 
 enough to immerse four tomatoes at once. Plunge them in 
 long enough to count live, then remove instantly to cold water. 
 Let the water come to a boiling point before putting in another 
 set, and they will be found to be tirm and smooth when the 
 thin outer skin is peeled off. For serving, see Salad, page 47. 
 They are also eaten as a fruit with sugar. 
 
 Stewed.— Cut in slices across the grain and boil gently about 
 fifteen minutes. Season to taste with salt, pepper and butter. 
 
 Baked.— Do not peel, but cut a small slice from the stem 
 end, leaving the stem on the piece for a handle. Scoop 
 out the middle and mix with an equal bulk of raw rice, 
 son well with butter, salt, pepper, cayenne and aspeck of sugar, 
 fill each tomato moderately full, replace the stems and bake in 
 a quick oven half an hour or till soft. This stufling may be 
 varied by using crumbs, chopped and seasoned meat) ham or 
 chicken is best), or macaroni. 
 
 Fried.— Cut them iu halves and dust each cut surface with 
 salt, pepper, sugar and enough very line bread crumbs to dry 
 them. Have some hot butter in the frying pan and brown the 
 tomatoes on both sides. Drop bits of butter between them and 
 stand over a moderate fire to cook very slowly. When tender 
 take up carefully with a cake turner and serve on a heated plat- 
 ter. They are sometimes finished with a cream gravy as fol- 
 lows: Pour over them enough cream to nearly cover, jet come 
 to a boil, and simmer five minutes. Lift the slices carefully and 
 thicken the gravv with two egg yolks beaten with a little cold 
 cream. Do not let it quite boil, but serve as soon as thickened. 
 
 Broiled.— Slice and broil over a hot fire. Serve with melted 
 butter. 
 
 Scolloped.— Put in a dish alternate layers of buttered bread 
 crumbs with sliced tomatoes, sprinkled with pepper, salt and 
 sugar. Spread bread crumbs and butter over the top. Bake 
 one hour. 
 
 Turnips 
 
 Are wholly deficient in salt, fat and starch, and are therefore 
 desirable to serve plain boiled or mashed and seasoned only with 
 salt and pepper, with boiled bacon, roast pork and mutton. 
 They are most palatable when cut into half inch cubes, boiled 
 in plenty of well salted water, and served in a rich white sauce. 
 
 Salsify or Oyster Plant. 
 
 Boiled. — Wash, scrape and throw into cold water. Cut into 
 inch pieces and boil rapidly uncovered in a granite stew pan. 
 A little vinegar will help to keep it white. Drain them well and 
 serve with plenty of butter and lemon juice, salt and pepper to 
 taste, or dressed with cream or Bechamel sauce. 
 
 Fried.— Cut cold boiled salsify into convenient lengths, coat 
 each with fritter batter No. 2, and fry in deep fat until well 
 crisped. 
 
 Fritters. — Page 41. 
 
 Salad. — Page 47. 
 
 Sarmas. 
 
 Prepare equal measure of finely minced meat, lamb or veal, 
 and washed rice. Season to taste with salt, pepper, onion and 
 cayenne. Scald grape leaves till they are well wilted. In each 
 leaf roll a little of the meat and rice, making small oval balls, 
 stew in just enough water to keep them from browning. 
 Blanched lettuce or cabbage leaves will do; in this case add a 
 few drops lemon juice to the meat. 
 
 Spinach. 
 
 Pick over carefully while dry, throw a few plants at a time 
 into a large pan of cold water, wash well on both sides to dis- 
 lodge insects, and pass to another pan. They should have at 
 least three separate waters. Put the spinach into a large kettle 
 without water, set it on the stove where it will cook slowly till 
 the juice is drawn, then boil till tender, drain and chop fine. 
 For half a peck of spinach add cue ounce butter, one-half tea- 
 spoon salt. Keheat and serve on buttered toast. 
 
 Yams 
 
 Are treated and served like sweet potatoes. 
 
 
54 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 \ 
 
 OOD BREAB 
 
 Is the most important item on the 
 
 menu of the family table, and this 
 
 you will have, provided you will use, with the 
 
 recipes given in this book, the well known flour 
 
 from the ..... 
 
 WASH$URN /WlbbS, 
 
 MINNEAPOLIS. 
 
 Washburn, Crosby Co.'s 
 
 Is the brand you should call for, 
 and take no other. 
 

 NOTES ON BREAD MAKING. 
 
 Requisites. 
 
 First — The best flour, fresh sweet yeast, pure water or milk 
 scalded, clean salt, sweet butter or lard, if any shortening is 
 used, and a good oven. 
 
 Second — A cook who knows how to use these things, or one 
 willing to learn and constantly practice with the needed skill, 
 strength and patience. 
 
 Given these and good bread is assured. Flour should be kept 
 in a dry place; it should be brought to the same temperature as 
 the milk or water used for mixing, 70°. Remember that the 
 temperature of the body is over 95°, so that the dough should 
 always feel cool to the hand. Keep doors and windows shut 
 while mixing or kneading or shaping bread or rolls; cover with 
 a cloth, especially when shaping into loaves or rolls; it never 
 recovers from a chill then. Keep it at an even temperature, 
 not less than 60°, not over 80°. It is very desirable to have a 
 high shelf where the air is warm and where it is out of 
 the way of draughts. If a tin bread pan is used cover closely 
 with the usual tin cover and then with a woolen cloth or several 
 layers of linen. Use this cover for nothing else. A novice 
 might set the kneaded dough to rise in an earthen crock, it is 
 very easy to tell in this when the mass has doubled in bulk; 
 butter it lightly ana have it evenly warmed. 
 
 Use only good yeast; if it is dry or discolored it is too old, if 
 rank smelling it is not properly made and will spoil the bread. 
 
 Beat vigorously while the sponge is soft to fill it with bubbles ; 
 remember that yeast is a plant and needs air to make a good 
 growth as well as water and an even temperature. Do not let 
 it get too warm ; if it is necessary to make bread in less than the 
 usual time, increase the quantity of yeast, double it if neces- 
 sary, but keep it cool. It will not be so good, but better than it 
 would if made too warm. Do not let it over rise, especially 
 when shaped in loaves or rolls; this is fatal. Do not try to mix 
 stiff in the bowl or pan; it is easier to do it on a well floured 
 table. Use a stiff palette knife to help in turning and shaping 
 to a ball. Knead by pushing the dough with the palm of the 
 hand, curving the fingers to keep the ball from flattening too 
 much; with every push turn the ball one quarterround and half 
 fold it over. Do not make it too stiff; a soft dough makes a 
 ender bread, and one that will keep better than a stiff one. 
 Knead until the dough has a silky smoothness, is full of blisters 
 and does not stick to the hands or board. Work fast but 
 lightly; the time required will vary with the manner of working 
 and the method of mixing, usually about twenty minutes. 
 
 If bread does not rise fast enough, set the crock in warm 
 water; this will e give it an even temperature; add warm water 
 every half houf. Bread should double its bulk at the first 
 rising in four hours and at the second in one hour. 
 
 The proper size for bread pans is four inches deep, four and a 
 half wide, ten long; they are best made of Russia iron. These 
 will bake a two pound loaf, but it is better to use not more than 
 one and a half pounds. A new baking pan should always be 
 baked blue in the oven before it is used. For greasing baking 
 tins use butter, lard, flour or a piece of laundry wax, rubbing 
 on the pan while it is hot. Do not grease tins for white bread. 
 
 After the loaves or rolls have been in the pans a half hour 
 the temperature may be increased; slip a warm, not hot, board 
 under them and set a pan of warm water over them. Attend 
 to the fire if coal is used (the oven can be heated with a wood 
 fire in fifteen minutes); shake out ashes, see that the fire box is 
 evenly filled half way up, and that the dampers are set right; 
 brush off the outside of oven and see that the inside is ready for 
 use; in ten minutes check the draught so that the oven shall 
 not be too hot at first. When the loaves are nearly ready scatter 
 a spoon of flour on paper and set in the oven; if it takes a good 
 color in five minutes the oven is right for loaves; it should be 
 quite brown in three minutes for rolls. 
 
 To prevent bread from raising unevenly in the oven, turn the 
 loaf end for end when it has been in the oven just five minutes, 
 without regard for the way it looks at that time. 
 
 When loaves are baked the heat should be slightly increased 
 for ten minutes then gradually reduced. Rolls should have 
 their greatest heat at first. Watch the oven, looking at the 
 bread every ten minutes. In ordinary small ranges the loaves 
 need frequent turning to ensure an even baking. In forty or 
 fifty minutes the loaf will shrink somewhat and slip easily from 
 the pan; it should have an evenly browned crust; one good test 
 is to lay the hand on the bottom of the loaf and if the escaping 
 steam is too hot to bear it shows that the interior needs more 
 cooking. When safe to handle it is safe to take out. Take 
 from the pans as soon as done and wrap in a thick cloth used 
 for no other purpose. Lay on a rack, set where it will cool 
 quickly and do not put away until entirely cold. Sift all meal 
 and flour before measuring. 
 
 Always pulverize salt, cream of tartar, soda or baking powder 
 before using. 
 
 For shortening a mixture of dripping, lard and the fat of veal 
 or chicken is very nice. 
 
 Keep the bread box or jar sweet by frequent scalding and 
 sunning. 
 
 Dry old rolls and pieces and keep in a separate place. 
 
 Do not throw away bread; it does not take much sense to find 
 some way to use if there is no one who would be glad to eat the 
 carefully kept odds and ends of good bread. 
 
 Always use a wooden spoon for stirring batter, soups, or 
 fruits, as it will not wear out a sieve, stain nor spoil the flavor; 
 to keep it white, always dip in hot water before using, as that 
 will fill the pores so they cannot absorb much of anything else. 
 
 Water Bread. 
 
 BEAD NOTES ON BREAD MAKING. 
 
 One quart flour sifted, one-half teaspoon salt, one-half tea- 
 spoon sugar, one tablespoon butter or lard, one-half ounce com- 
 pressed yeast (dissolved in one-half cup tepid water), one pint 
 warm water. Measure flour, sugar and salt into a six-quart 
 mixing-bowl. Pour hot water enough to dissolve it onto the 
 shortening, then add cold water to make just one pint of water 
 at the right temperature (about 70°), mix in the dissolved yeast 
 and make a batter with the flour, beating well. Add more 
 flour till the mixture is stiff enough to handle on the moulding 
 board and knead, using as little flour as possible to keep it from 
 sticking. Cover closely with a plate and let rise till it doubles 
 its bulk. Cut it down and let rise again ; divide into four parts 
 and shape into round loaves, putting two in each pan, or shape 
 part as biscuit. Cover and let rise to double its bulk. Bake as 
 directed about forty-five minutes. 
 
 A different quality of bread is made by using milk to mix 
 with, omitting the shortening, or by taking half milk and half 
 water and part of the shortening; and still another by using 
 skimmed milk. Always scald the milk thoroughly and cool 
 before adding the yeast. 
 
 Milk Bread, with a Sponge. 
 
 Pour one pint of scalding milk on one tablespoon each of 
 butter and sugar and one-half teaspoon salt; when hike warm 
 add one-half ounce yeast, and let it rise. Stir in three and one- 
 half cups of flour and beat well. Let it rise till very light, then 
 add enough more flour to knead and work it till smooth and 
 fine grained. Let it rise in the bowl, cutting down two or 
 three times. This makes an excellent rule for tea biscuit, 
 or rolls, and by doubling the measure of butter and adding the 
 white of an egg well beaten, you have the delicious White 
 Mountain rolls. 
 
 55 
 
56 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 WASHBU'RN, e^osBy eo.'S 
 
 RECIPE FOR MAKING BREAD. 
 
 This is a New Recipe. Kindly give it a trial, as we know good results will follow. 
 Set your bread to rise in the morning and follow these rules closely. 
 
 To one (1) quart of lukewarm (not hot) wetting (composed of equal portions of 
 water and sweet milk, or water alone), add two (2) half ounce cakes (1 oz.) of Com- 
 pressed yeast and stir until completely dissolved, then add (1) teaspoonful of salt and 
 three (3) tablespoonfuls of sugar. When salt and sugar are thoroughly dissolved, stir in 
 well-sifted flour with a wooden spoon until a dough is formed sufficiently stiff to be 
 turned from the mixing bowl to the moulding board in a mass. (The quantity of flour 
 used to above wetting should be about three (3) quarts, to this flour may be added, 
 with excellent results, about two (2) tablespoonfuls lard, if shortening is desired.) Knead 
 this dough, adding if necessary, a little flour, from time to time until it becomes smooth 
 and elastic and ceases to stick to the fingers or mouldboard. Then put it into a well- 
 greased earthen bowl, brush lightly with melted butter or drippings, cover with a bread 
 towel or blanket and set to rise in a warm place for two (2) hours, or until light. As 
 soon as light, knead well and again place in earthen bowl, covering as before, and set 
 for another rising of an hour, or until light. As soon as light, form gently into loaves 
 or rolls, place in greased bread or roll pans, brush with melted butter or drippings, 
 cover again with the towel or blanket and let stand for one and one-half (W2) hours, 
 and then bake. 
 
 POINTS TO REMEMBER. 
 
 1. Be sure the flour j^ou are using is Washburn, Crosby Co.'s Flour. 
 
 2. Dough when light enough to bake should be nearly double the size in bulk it 
 was when first set to rise, and should be so light that when lifted in the pan the sense 
 of weight will scarcely be perceptible. 
 
 3. Bread should be put to bake as soon as it is light, and the oven, at the time 
 it is put in it, should be at a temperature of 375 degrees by the thermometer, or hot 
 enough to brown flour in two (2) minutes without burning it. 
 
 4. The time of rising, of course, depends upon the temperature of the room; 
 about 75 degrees is the best. 
 
 5. During the rising see that the dough does not become chilled. The temperature 
 must be kept uniform. 
 
 6. In using compressed yeast, see that it is fresh. If soft and soggy when broken, 
 it is old and poor. It should be light, spongy and not too damp. 
 
 Ask your Grocer for Washburn, Crosby Co.'s Flour. 
 
 I 
 
WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK 
 
 57 
 
 Milk Rising Bread. 
 
 Boil one-half cup of new milk al night and add to it enough 
 Southern corn meal to make u soft batter. Let it stand over 
 tiight at a temperature of about 75°. In the morning boil another 
 half cup of new milk and add cold water till about milk warm, 
 and mix thoroughly with the batter made at night, adding one 
 tablespoon sugar, one teaspoon salt and enough flour to make 
 a soft batter. Set this mixture in a very warm place (not less 
 than 100°), and let it rise to double its bulk; it will take about 
 three hours. As soon as well risen add an equal bulk of water 
 in which has been dissolved one-halt' teaspoon soda, one rounded 
 tablespoon of lard, more salt if liked, and Hour enough to knead 
 quite soft. Put it into the pans, let rise again to double its 
 bulk, and bake as usual. — Mrs. J. B. S, Holmes, Rome, 0a. 
 
 Graham Bread. 
 
 1 pint milk, J ounce yeast, 
 
 2 tablespoons brown sugar, 1 pint Graham, 
 
 1 teaspoon salt, 1 pint white Hour. 
 
 Scald and cool the milk, add the sugar and crumbled yeast; 
 when it floats and is frothy make a batter with the flour and 
 meal, beating vigorously, let it rise till spongy, add the salt and 
 more meal gradually until it is as thick as can be worked with a 
 stiff knife, put one and a half pounds in each pan, smoothing 
 the tops; cover and raise again. It should be set in a quick 
 oven and the heat reduced in ten minutes. It is sometimes 
 liked made stiff enough to knead, but should not be made as 
 stiff as ordinary wheat bread ; bake as usual, with heat increasing 
 for ten minutes. Good baked as muffins. 
 
 Gluten Bread. 
 
 The so-called gluten meals vary so mucn that the measures 
 given here may need to be varied. The Xew York Health 
 Food Company have a meal which has been washed until only 
 slight traces of starch are left, and this is perhaps the safest 
 for diabetic patients; but there are others in the market which 
 have been freed from a large proportion of starch, and these 
 make a palatable and highly nutritious bread for general use. 
 
 1 generous pint milk, J ounce compressed yeast, 
 
 J speck saccharine, 1 scant teaspoon salt, 
 
 2 quarts, more or less, gluten. 
 
 Scald and cool the milk to 70°, add the saccharine — it can be 
 taken up on the point of a skewer — crumble the yeast in the 
 milk and let it stand fifteen minutes; it will not float, but will 
 be soft enough to beat smooth with gluten to make a soft 
 batter; beat till it shows bubbles, let it rise till spongy; it will 
 take rather longer thau an ordinary wheat sponge, and the 
 fermentation must not go too far or the bread will be bitter; 
 put iu the salt and as much more gluten as can be worked in 
 easily with a stiff knife; put one and a half pounds in a loaf; 
 bake thoroughly with moderate heat for the last half hour. 
 Can be baked in iron gem pans. It may be made stiffer and 
 kneaded if preferred, in which case the dough should staud for 
 another rising before it is put in the pans. It is more apt to 
 develop a bitter taste in the longer rising. 
 
 Whole wheat may be made by any recipe for Graham, omit- 
 ting flour. 
 
 Graham and Rye Bread. 
 
 One pint Graham, one pint rye meal, one tablespoon molasses, 
 one tablespoon shortening, one teaspoon salt, one-half ounce 
 compressed yeast dissolved in two and one-third cups water. 
 Make a sponge with the Graham, when light make stiff with the 
 rye. It does not require long kneading, and will always be 
 slightly sticky, but it is both palatable and nutritious. Put not 
 more than one and a half pounds in a loaf aud bake an hour 
 and a quarter in a moderate oven. This is the "brown bread" 
 of the English bakeries, and needs only a brick oven to be as 
 good as theirs. 
 
 Graham and Rye Bread Steamed. 
 
 Two cups buttermilk, one-third cup molasses, one teaspoon 
 salt, one teaspoon soda, one pint wheat Graham and one pint 
 rye Graham. Beat well, put in two well-buttered two pound 
 tomato cans, (melt the top off at the gas jet) set over cold 
 water and bring to a boil, this gives the loaf time to rise. 
 Steam two hours, dry in moderate oven one-half hour. 
 
 Rye Bread. 
 
 Three pints of rye flour; 'f the coarse rye meal is used take 
 one quart rye and one pint white flour; dissolve one-half ounce 
 •yeast in three cups milk or water, one teaspoon salt and two 
 tablespoons molasses if liked. Treat like Graham. Bake 
 moderately but thoroughly. 
 
 "Rye'n Injin." 
 
 Scald one cup corn meal with one quart boiling milk and let 
 It cook litteen minutes, add two tablespoons molasses, one tea- 
 spoon salt and let it cool; meanwhile dissolve one ounce of 
 yeast in two tablespoons water, and beat thoroughly into the 
 Corn meal batter; mix in three cups of rye meal, not Hour; if 
 Very coarse sift OUt Some Of the bran, but keep three cups to 
 mix with, put into an iron or steel pan, bake in a sponge cake 
 oven but lei it stay in two hours at least, covering closely if there 
 is danger of browning. The old way was to put it iu for the 
 last baking of the brick oven and let it stand all night. II the 
 upper crust was too hard it was evenly sliced from the loaf. 
 well browned and used for crust coffee or brewis, either or 
 which needs only to be known to be appreciated. 
 
 "Boston Brown Bread" Steamed. / 
 
 Two cups rye meal, one cup corn meal, one-third cup ndolasses, 
 one teaspoon salt, one teaspoon soda dissolved in tfo table- 
 spoons water, one pint sour milk, steam four hours. 
 
 Graham Bread Steamed. 
 
 Three cups Graham, one teaspoon salt, one rounding teaspoon 
 soda, one-third cup molasses, one pint sour milk, beat well, 
 steam three hours in one tall mould or two tomato cans well 
 buttered, set in oven to dry fifteen minutes. — Mtel Ellen 
 Munro, Milwaukee, Wis. 
 
 ROLLS. 
 
 For ordinary breakfast use take one and a half pounds bread 
 dough when ready to shape into loaves, make a long even roll 
 and cut into twelfths, shape with thumb and lingers into round 
 balls, set in a eleven by six inch pan if liked without crust, or two 
 inches apart on a sheet if wanted crusty all around, brush with 
 butter, cover closely and let rise slowly for thirty or forty 
 minutes, then raise the temperature slightly for another half 
 hour; they should more than double their bulk and should 
 have even dome-shaped tops; bake in a quick oven fifteen to 
 twenty-five minutes. 
 
 Finger Rolls. 
 
 Make "Milk Bread with a Sponge," putting in a generous 
 measure of butter; proceed as usual, but cut dowu twice. 
 Make a pound and a half of dough into two rolls, cut each into 
 twelfths and make two rows in a biscuit tin, rise and bake as 
 before. 
 
 For Pocket Books roll out the same dough after the second 
 cutting to less than a half inch, spread thinly with butter, cut 
 in strips four or five inches wide, fold down an inch or two at 
 one end and then over again, cut off square and begin again; 
 bake separately. 
 
 Folded Rolls are cut from the same sheet of buttered dough 
 with a two inch cutter, folded a trifle unevenly and set with 
 edges up three rows of ten each in a biscuit tin. 
 
 Sticks. 
 
 These are used with soups and salads. Use the same material 
 as for "Tea Biscuit with Potato" omitting the potato. Knead 
 thoroughly and shape after the first rising, eighteen ounces of 
 dough will make two dozen sticks. Make two even rolls and 
 cut into twelve each, roll as even as a lead pencil and set in 
 stick pans; they come insets of one dozen. If the hands are 
 dry dampen them with a wet towel, cover the rolls closely 
 while rising; when making several dozen cover with a damp 
 cloth and put a thick dry one over. If wanted soft inside bake 
 Ave minutes in a quick oven, or ten to fifteen in moderate oven 
 if wanted crisp all through. 
 
 White Mountain Rolls. 
 
 Are made with four ounces dough, each six inches long and 
 tapering somewhat to the ends; they may be laid on a sheet, 
 but are nicer baked in French roll pans; these are half cylinders 
 of Russia iron. 
 
 Thumb Rolls. 
 
 Are one and a half ounces made about two inches long and 
 baked separately in French roll pans. 
 
 French Twists. 
 
 These require twenty ounces for each pair. Divide in fourths, 
 roll nearly as long as the pan, lay a knife across the ends of two 
 strands and fold one over the other to make a shapely twist. 
 Braids are made in the same way with three or four strands, 
 but are better baked in a pan. 
 
58 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 Tea Biscuit. 
 
 One cup milk scalded and cooled, one table spoon sugar, two 
 tablespoons shortening, one-half teaspoon salt, one-half ounce 
 yeast dissolved with the sugar in one-fourth cup water, three 
 cups flour, beat well; let rise till light, add one cup flour and 
 raise again, shape, butter, cover, raise till light and bake in 
 quick oven.— Miss Ellen Mevrick, Milwaukee, Wis. 
 
 Tea Biscuit with Potato. • 
 
 Three-fourths of a cup of hot, sifted potato, one-fourth cup 
 butter, one teaspoon sugar, one teaspoon salt, mixed well to- 
 gether. One cup milk that has been scalded and cooled, one- 
 fourth ounce compressed yeast, white of one egg slightly 
 beaten. Mix the above ingredients well and add enough flour 
 to knead it smooth. It will take about one quart. 
 
 If this is, set at ten o'clock in the morning, it will be ready to 
 shape and bake for tea. 
 
 Cut the sponge down once and when it has risen the second 
 time shape in rather small biscuit, set them well apart in the 
 pan and let rise in a cool place till very light. Bake in a quick 
 oven. These are excellent to use for croustades.— Mrs. Cheney, 
 Ft. Wayne, III. 
 
 Sweet Potato Biscuit. 
 
 Boil and mash a large sweet potato while hot; work in two 
 eggs and flour enough for a dough. Add one-quarter ounce 
 yeast, and let it rise over night. In the morning work in a 
 spoon of butter, mould in small biscuit, let them rise to double 
 their size, and bake in a quick oven. Good for breakfast or tea. 
 
 Parker House Rolls. 
 
 Put one quart of flour in a large mixing bowl, make a hollow 
 in the center, add one teaspoon salt, one tablespoon sugar, two 
 large tablespoons butter, and pour on one pint of milk, boiling 
 hot; let it alone until cooled to 70°; add one-half ounce yeast 
 dissolved in two tablespoons water, stir gently to make a thin 
 batter, leaving a shell of flour around the batter; when full of 
 bubbles mix stiff using three cups flour, more or less; let it rise 
 to twice its bulk, cut down, rise again, roll or pat out one-half 
 inch thick, cut, butter, fold so that the upper edge overlaps the 
 under one, or they will spread apart too much in rising, cover 
 closely, give them plenty of time to rise and do not let them be 
 too warm, bake ten or fifteen minutes in hot oven. 
 
 Lancashire Tea Cakes. 
 
 H pounds flour. 
 i pound butter. 
 1 pint new milk. 
 J ounce yeast. 
 
 j pound currants. 
 
 2 ounces candied lemon. 
 
 2 eggs. 
 
 2 tablespoons sugar. 
 A little grated nutmeg. 
 Put the sugar and currants with the flour ; melt the butter in the 
 milk which must be scalded, and when cool enough mixed with 
 the well beaten eggs and yeast. Add the dry ingredients beat- 
 ing all well and set away to rise. When light put in cake 
 ^ans to rise again to double its bulk. Bake in a moderately hot 
 oven. These are delicious when fresh, and equally good split 
 and toasted the second day.— Mrs. W. S. Turner, Asheville,N. C. 
 
 "To Make Wigs." 
 
 Take three pounds and a half of flour, and three quarters of 
 a pound of butter, and rub it into the flour till none of it be 
 seen; then take a pint or more of new milk and make it very 
 warm and half a pint of new Ale-yeast; then make it into a 
 light paste. Put in caraway seeds and what spice you please; 
 then make it up and lay it before the tire to rise; then work in 
 three quarters of a pound of sugar, and then roll them into 
 what form you please, pretty thin, rise again before the fire 
 and bake in a warm oven.— The Compleat Housewife. 
 
 Crumpets. 
 
 One pint milk, scalded and cooled, one-half ounce yeast, dis- 
 solved in the milk with one teaspoon sugar and one-half tea- 
 spoon salt; when light, from two to four hours, add one-half 
 cup melted butter, let stand twenty minutes, bake in rings on 
 a large griddle; best when one or two days old and toasted. 
 
 Buns and Rusk. 
 
 One pint milk, scalded and cooled, one-half cup butter and 
 lard mixed, one-half cup sugar, one-half cup sifted potato, one 
 ounce yeast dissolved in the pint of milk with one teaspoon 
 sugar, three eggs. Mix in the order given, adding flour to 
 make a thin batter, about one quart; beat well; when full of 
 bubbles, add flour to stiffen and knead well. Kaise again, cut 
 down, and when light again shape one-half the dough into 
 small balls, like breakfast biscuit; place them close together 
 in the pan, raise slowly at first, and when very light brusn 
 
 them over with this syrup: One tablespoon cream and 
 one of sugar, boiled one minute. Currants or raisins 
 seeded and quartered, may be added, or one teaspoon cin- 
 namon. Bake the other half in two two-pound loaf pans. 
 Set it in moderate oven so that the loaf will be nearly level; 
 the next day cut in half inch slices, set in a very moderate 
 oven until perfectly crisp and of a bright yellow color. These 
 are delicious with milk or chocolate for lunch. There are 
 many variations of this rule. If a soft flour is used make 
 simply a bread sponge, and after the second rising add the 
 butter and sugar, creamed and beaten as for cake. This must 
 be done with the hand, and when smooth add one, two or 
 three eggs. Some recipes double the butter and sugar, and 
 they are good with one-half as much. 
 
 Hot Cross Buns have two gashes cut across them with a 
 sharp knife, or have deep folds pressed into them with a long 
 pencil. When baked separately and shaped like French rolls 
 they are called Quebecs. Roll to a thin sheet, brush with soft 
 butter, sugar and spice, or fine dried fruit. Then fold over 
 like jelly cake and cut in half inch slices; let rise again till 
 light, brush again with butter or sweetened milk and bake 
 separately for Swedish Rolls. 
 
 Soft Kringles. 
 
 One half pound dough from "Milk bread with a sponge," 
 Pound two cardamom seeds to a powder with two good table- 
 spoons sugar and work into the dough with two eggs and 
 two tablespoons butter; add just enough flour to knead well. 
 Roll into long sticks and cut into sections, shape in rings, 
 links or pretzels. 
 
 Prune Kringles. 
 
 One-half pound dough, one tablespoon each butter and sugar 
 kneaded into it. Chop six or eight good prunes in four table- 
 spoons sugar, chop first, the meat of three or four of the stones 
 very fine, mix, shape the dough into sticks the size of the little 
 finger, roll in the prunes bake in oblong rings. 
 
 Sugar Kringles are made in the same way, substituting a 
 dozen blanched and chopped almonds for the prunes, roll the 
 sticks rather smaller, make oblong rings with one end crossing 
 at the middle to the opposite side. 
 
 Giffles. 
 
 Take one-half pound Soft Kringle dough roll one-quarter inch 
 thick cut in eight equal squares, put a spoonful of any firm 
 jelly near one corner, roll over and over, stretching a little and 
 curve like a Vienna roll. When very light glaze and bake ten 
 minutes in a hot oven. 
 
 BISCUIT, SHORTCAKE, MUFFINS, ETC. 
 
 WITH BAKING POWDER. 
 
 Baking Powder Biscuit. 
 
 One quart sifted flour, one teaspoon salt, four level teaspoons 
 baking powder sifted together four times, two tablespoons but- 
 ter, enough cold milk to make a stiff dough (patent flour 
 will require about one pint). Rub the butter between the 
 thumb and fingers to make it into fine flakes, add the milk 
 gradually, mixing and cutting through with a knife till the 
 whole is a light spongy mass. Turn on a well floured board 
 and press out with the hands to one inch thick, use a two inch 
 cutter and bake at once in a very hot oven, this will make just 
 eighteen and fills one biscuit tin. 
 
 For Twin Biscuit make as above and roll only one-half as 
 thick. Spread the rounds with soft butter, put two together 
 and bake quickly. 
 
 For Sandwich Biscuit, make as before, but add one teaspoon 
 shortening, roll less than one-half inch thick, cut in four inch 
 rounds, bake separately on an iron sheet, cool, split and use for 
 salad sandwiches with plain lettuce dipped in French dressing. 
 
 Dropped Biscuit. 
 
 One quart flour, one teaspoon sugar, one teaspoon salt, and 
 four teaspoons baking powder sifted together four times. Rub 
 in two tablespoons of butter and mix with one pint of milk; 
 beat vigorously for one minute, drop by tablespoons in hot iron 
 gem pans and bake ten minutes in a quick oven. Excellent 
 made with Rye or Graham. 
 
 Short Cake, No. 1. 
 
 One quart flour, one teaspoon salt, four teaspoons baking 
 powder, sifted together four times, rub in one-half cup butter and 
 lard, one and one quarter cups milk. Bake in two long biscuit 
 tins, marking off in squares before baking. Bake in a very 
 quick oven till a good brown. Use a generous quart of fruit for 
 
■ 
 
 / 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 59 
 
 each layer, dust thick with powdered sugar. Pile whipped 
 cream on the top layer just before serving. If it is wanted very 
 crisp and short like pastry the amount of shortening is doubled 
 and water used to mix rather stiller than before. All butter 
 makes it more crisp than lard. 
 
 Short Cake, No. 2. 
 
 One pint Hour, one-half teaspoon salt, two teaspoons baking 
 powder, sifted together four times, one quarter cup battel 
 rubbed in, one egg beaten and mixed with one scant cup milk. 
 Spread on a biscuit tin and bake in quick oven. Pull apart 
 after cooling live minutes, spread with softened butter and till 
 with fruit. 
 
 Short Cake. No. 3. 
 
 Beat three eggs very light (not less than ten minutes of rapid 
 beating), add one and one-half cups sugar, one-half cup cold 
 water, two cups pastry Hour, two teaspoons baking powder, 
 whisk very quickly together and bake in three jelly cake tins 
 about ten minutes. 
 
 Old Fashioned Short Cake, No. 4. 
 
 One large cup rich sour cream, one-half teaspoon salt and the 
 same of soda, sifted four times with one pint flour, mix, beat 
 well for two minutes. If there is no old fashioned spider take 
 a twelve inch frying pan, have it buttered and hissing hot, 
 spread in the short cake, cover with a flat tin and set hot 
 griddle over. Do not burn, turn in less than ten minutes, 
 when done break in pieces and send to table folded in napkin. 
 
 Rye Short Cake. 
 
 One pint rye meal, one teaspoon salt, one pint wheat flour, 
 two tablespoons butter well rubbed in, two teaspoons baking 
 powder, water enough to roll out one inch thick on a baking 
 sheet, bake about thirty minutes; when used for garnish roll 
 one-half inch thick on a sheet and mark in triangles t>efore bak- 
 ing. 
 
 Dumplings for Stews. 
 
 One pint of flour, one-half teaspoon salt, two teaspoons bak- 
 ing powder, sifted together four times; mix with one cup rich 
 milk, drop by spoonf ills into the boiling stew. Cover tight and do 
 not open for ten minutes, when they should be done. These 
 may also be dropped on a buttered plate and cooked in an 
 ordinary steamer over fast boiling water. 
 
 When cooked with stewed fruit made very rich, this is called 
 Fruit Pot Pie. Peach, pear, plum, apple highly flavored with 
 quince, and cranberries are good. Crabapple is better to use 
 with the rich crispness of a short cake. 
 
 Apple Dumplings, No. 1. 
 
 Fill a two quart granite ware pan two-thirds full of tart 
 apples, pared, quartered and cored, add one-half cup water, 
 cover and set on stove to heat while preparing crust. Make one- 
 half the rule for short cake No. 1. Roll out to exactly lit the 
 pan, cut several gashes to let the steam escape, lay it over the 
 hot apples and cover with a deep pie plate; cook on top of the 
 stove for half an hour, setting the pan on a trivet if necessary 
 to keep the apples from burning; then lift the cover and brown 
 the crust in a hot oven. Serve with hard sauce. Excellent also 
 when steamed forty minutes. Invert on a large plate and serve 
 with brown sugar sauce. 
 
 Apple Dumplings, No. 2. 
 
 Make crust as in short cake No. 1, but use scant measure of 
 milk, roll out and cut in Ave inch squares, core and halve three 
 large apples, fold each piece of apple in a square of paste, 
 bringing the corners to the core; turn the dumplings upside 
 down in a well buttered dripping pan, dot them with bits of 
 butter and sprinkle over four tablespoons of sugar; set the pan 
 in a quick oven and after ten minutes pour on boiling water to 
 half cover. Baste often and bake about thirty minutes in an 
 oven hot enough to have them browned in that time. Serve 
 with hot sauce, cream or the syrup from the pan. 
 
 Apple Cake. 
 
 Core, pare and cut in eighths four or five tender sour apples. 
 Make the rule for short cake No. 2. Lay the apple closely in rows 
 the long way of the biscuit pan, sift over two tablespoons sugar, 
 in which a half teaspoon of cinnamon has been mixed if liked; 
 work fast; bake in a rather quick oven about thirty minutes. 
 It may be used plain for tea or with hot sauce for dessert. This 
 is'a very good and quickly made substitute for the true German 
 dish, that has the rich, delicate coffee bread for a foundation, 
 but which requires more time and care. 
 
 Peach Cobbler. 
 
 Prepare a rich short cake crust, using cream to mix it if pos- 
 sible. Fill a granite baking dish about one-half full with pared 
 and stoned peaches. Allow one pint sugar to each quart of 
 fruit. Cover and bake, for an hour or longer until the peaches 
 show a dark red color. Cool and serve with sugar and cream. 
 
 Peach Dumplings. 
 
 Make one-half the rule for short cake No. 1, roll out one inch 
 thick, cut three inch rounds arid make a large hollow in the 
 biscuit with a cup, leaving just a rim around the edge, fill with 
 fresh peaches cut in quarters, or nice canned peaches; sprinkle 
 white sugar over the top enough to season well, set the 
 dumplings in a pan and bake thirty minutes in a moderate 
 oven; ten minutes before taking outpour over one pint boiling 
 hot syrup (use the juice from the can) and baste twice, increase 
 the heat to glaze the dumplings; if they brown a little ^all the 
 better. 
 
 Royal Muffins. 
 
 Two cups "cerealine," three cups flour, one pint milk, three 
 teaspoons baking powder, one-half teaspoon salt, two eggs, one 
 tablespoon butter. Sift flour, sugar, salt and baking powder 
 together; add "cerealine," the milk and beaten eggs; lastly the 
 butter, melted, beat hard for two minutes, fill muffin pans two- 
 thirds full and bake about twenty minutes in hot oven. 
 
 Corn Muffins. 
 
 One cup corn-meal, two tablespoons sugar, one teaspoon salt, 
 one even tablespoon butter, Ave cups boiling water. At night 
 mix the meal, salt, sugar, in top of double boiler; add the boil- 
 ing water and butter and cook one hour. Turn into a mixing 
 bowl and pour over it one-quarter cup water to keep a crust 
 from forming. In the morning beat it up soft and smooth, 
 mix one and one-half cups fine yellow corn flour, one and one- 
 half cups white flour, two even teaspoons baking powder and 
 stir into the mixture. Add one egg well beaten, bake in iron 
 gem pans in a hot oven; or, in the morning add one cup each of 
 corn, rye and wheat flour; or, one and one-half corn, one graham, 
 one-half cup wheat flour. These are good enough to pay for 
 the extra trouble of cooking the evening before using. This 
 rule makes sixteen muffins. — Boston Cook Book. 
 
 Loaf Corn Bread. 
 
 One pint yellow meal, one-half pint flour, one teaspoon salt, 
 two teaspoons baking powder, all sifted together; one table- 
 spoon sugar, three tablespoons melted butter, three eggs, one 
 pint sweet milk. Beat long and hard, and bake in a large 
 round loaf. The oven must not be too hot. 
 
 1 cup sweet milk, 
 1 cup sour milk, 
 i cup molasses, 
 
 Togus Muffins. 
 
 1| cup corn meal, 
 I cup flour, 
 1 teaspoon soda, 
 J teaspoon salt. 
 
 Steam in cups two hours. 
 
 White Corn Bread. 
 
 Put one quart of cream-white meal into a bowl, pour over 
 sufficient boiling water to scald it through; the meal must be 
 moist, but not wet; add to this a tablespoon of butter and tea- 
 spoon of salt. Beat three eggs without separating until light; 
 add them to the meal; then add one pint of thick sour milk; 
 beat until smooth. Dissolve one teaspoon of soda in a table- 
 spoon of boiling water, stir into the mixture, turn into a 
 greased pan and bake in a moderately quick oven forty-five 
 minutes. If you use sweet milk, baking powder must be used, 
 but your cake will not be so good. 
 
 Corn and Rice Cakes. 
 
 One pint white corn meal, one teaspoon salt, one tablespoon 
 flour, one cup cold boiled rice, three eggs well beaten, one pint of 
 milk, two tablespoons melted butter, one heaping teaspoon 
 baking powder, bake in muffin pans about twenty minutes. 
 
 Hominy and Corn Meal Cakes. 
 
 Mix two tablespoons fine uncooked hominy, one-half tea- 
 spoon salt, one tablespoon butter, one-half cup of boiling 
 water. Set over the boiling teakettle till the water is all 
 absorbed, pour one cup boiling milk on one scant cup of corn- 
 meal, add two tablespoons sugar and the hominy, cool and 
 whisk in two eggs (yolks and whites beaten separately), one 
 heaping teaspoon baking powder. Bake in gem pans twenty 
 minutes. — Boston Cook Book. 
 
\ 
 
 60 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 Johnny Cake. 
 
 One quart of watermilled corn meal, one teaspoon salt, two 
 tablespoons molasses, three cups buttermilk, two level tea- 
 spoons soda, crushed and stirred into the meal. Beat two eggs 
 to a cream, add to the milk and meal, and beat last for two 
 minutes with a broad wooden spoon. Bake in two pans for 
 one-half hour in a rather quick oven. This old-fashioned 
 bread can only be properly made with old-fashioned meal. 
 The usual kiln-dried meal makes a different quality, and the 
 proportion should be three cups meal and one of flour, while if 
 one has the golden granulated, which is so nice for mush and 
 steamed bread, it will do to take one pint of flour to one pint 
 of corn meal. In this case take one pint sour milk and use 
 four tablespoons meited shortening. 
 
 Corn Cake with Suet. 
 
 One cup corn meal, one cup flour, one-half teaspoon salt and 
 one-half teaspoon crushed soda, sifted together. Add one-half 
 cup finely chopped suet and one pint sour milk; beat well and 
 bake in moderate oven one-half hour. It may be eaten with 
 syrup, but is recommended only for zero weather. 
 
 Muffins, No. 1. 
 
 One pint milk, one tablespoon sugar, half ounce yeast, make 
 a sponge with three cups flour, beat well. When light add two 
 eggs, two tablespoons butter melted, half teaspoon salt, one 
 cup flour, more or less; raise till light, fill rings or gem pans, 
 raise again and bake in a rather quick oven for twenty or 
 twenty-five minutes. If baked in a buttered dish and sent to 
 the table in the same pan it is called Sally Lunn. It used to 
 be the custom to cut them in two as soon as out of the oven, 
 butter freely, replace and eat at once, but happily this villainy 
 is now out of fashion. 
 
 Muffins, No. 2. (English.) 
 
 One quart flour, one teaspoon salt, one-third ounce yeast, 
 one and one-half cups of warm water. Dissolve the yeast 
 in one third cup of cold water, add it with the salt and 
 the warm water and gradually stir it into the flour. Beat 
 the dough thoroughly; cover and let rise in a warm place until 
 spongy, about five hours. Then shape the dough on a floured 
 board into balls about twice as large as an egg. Flatten to 
 one-third of an inch thick. Lay these on a warm griddle which 
 has been lightly greased and set on the back of the stove to rise 
 slowly. As soon as they have risen a little draw them forward 
 and cook slowly, turning often. They should take about 
 twenty minutes to rise and fifteen minutes to bake. Tear them 
 apart and butter them while hot.— 3Iiss Parloa. 
 
 Yorkshire Toasted Tea Cakes. 
 
 Make a sponge with three pints of sifted flour, one teaspoon 
 of salt, one pint warm milk, one-half pound of butter melted 
 in it, half an ounce of yeast dissolved in a little warm water. 
 Beat these smooth and let rise until very light, add a beaten 
 egg and enough flour to knead smooth. Make this into flat 
 cakes the size of a teaplate, let them rise an hour and bake in 
 a moderate oven. The next day split and toast, butter at once 
 and serve hot. 
 
 Graham Muffins, No. 1. (Raised.) 
 
 -Make the same as for bread but fill well-buttered gem pans 
 instead of making loaves, raise until light, bake twenty min- 
 utes in quick oven. 
 
 Graham Muffins, No. 2. (With Baking Powder.) 
 
 Make like drop biscuits but take only half the shortening, 
 none is needed if creamy milk can be had; use a little more 
 milk. 
 
 Graham Muffins, No. 3. (With Muriatic Acid.) 
 
 One quart graham and one teaspoon crushed soda sifted to- 
 gether, no salt is needed as enough will be formed by the union 
 of the soda and acid. Stir one teaspoon acid into one pint of 
 milk, the richer the better. Mix the two quickly and beat well 
 one minute with a broad wooden spoon. Put in hot iron gem 
 pans and bake fifteen minutes in a quick oven. — Dr. Rogers 
 Pom/ret, Conn. 
 
 Brown Muffins. 
 
 One cup corn meal, two cups rye meal, one-fourth cup molas- 
 ses, one-half teaspoon salt. Dissolve one-fourth yeast cake in a 
 little tepid water, add enough more to make a soft dough. Rise 
 over night. In the morning add one saltspoon soda dissolved 
 in as little warm water as possible. Drop into muftiin pans, let 
 stand till light. Bake in a rather moderate oven. 
 
 Oat Meal Muffins. 
 
 One large coffee cup freshly cooked oat meal, one tablespoon 
 butter, one tablespoon sugar, one teaspoon salt, mix well to- 
 gether, add one-fourth to one-half yeast cake dissolved in as 
 little water as possible, and enough flour to mould very stiff. 
 Rise till light, drop in warm gem pans, rise again until soft. 
 Bake in a quick oven about twenty minutes. 
 
 Rice Muffins, No. 1. 
 
 One coffee cup of warm boiled rice, half tablespoon sugar, 
 one tablespoon butter well worked into the rice while warm, 
 add one scant cup milk and flour enough to make a very stiff 
 dough. One-quarter to one-half yeast cake dissolved in a little 
 of the milk. Rise till light, then add two eggs beaten to a 
 cream, drop into well buttered muffin pans, rise till very light. 
 Bake about ten minutes in the hottest kind of an oven. 
 
 Rice Muffins, No. 2. 
 
 Use the same ingredients as in No. 1, but scant the measure 
 of flour so as to make it a drop batter and add two teaspoons 
 baking powder instead of the yeast. 
 
 Cream Muffins. 
 
 One pint flour, half teaspoon salt, two teaspoons baking pow- 
 der sifted four times, yolks of two eggs beaten lightly, one and 
 a quarter cups cream, beat thoroughly then fold in lightly the 
 beaten whites of the two eggs. Bake in muffin pans and serve 
 hot.— Mrs. Lincoln. 
 
 Pauline Muffins. 
 
 One pint flour, one pint milk, two eggs, one tablespoon sugar, 
 one tablespoon butter, two teaspoons baking powder, one-half 
 teaspoon salt. Mix and sift the flour, baking powder and salt, rub 
 the butter and sugar, then mix the flour with it to cream, add 
 the eggs and beat till smooth, then mix it with the flour, pour 
 in the milk and beat rapidly till very light. Pour into buttered 
 gem pans or murfiin rings with bottoms, about two thirds full, 
 and bake in a quick oven. 
 
 Harrison Bread. 
 
 One pint of milk, one tablespoon of lard, four eggs well 
 beaten, flour for a thick batter, half ounce of yeast. Pour the 
 milk boiling hot on the lard; when cold, stir in the eggs, flour 
 and yeast; set to rise, and when light bake in a loaf. Serve it 
 hot, and slice it at the table, like cake. 
 
 Quick Sally Lunn. 
 
 One quart flour, one teaspoon salt, three teaspoons baking 
 powder, three eggs well beaten with two tablespoons sugar, one 
 pint milk, two tablespoons butter, softened. Beat well; makes 
 two square pans or sixteen muffins. 
 
 Quick Coffee Bread. 
 
 Same as above, using half cup less milk, five eggs and sprink- 
 ling sugar on top with a little cinnamon, instead of mixing it 
 with the dough. 
 
 Blueberry Tea Cake. 
 
 One quart flour, one teaspoon salt and three of baking pow- 
 der sifted with the flour. One cup sugar, two eggs, one pint 
 sweet milk, one-half cup butter, melted, beat all well together; 
 then add one pint blueberries that have been picked over and 
 well dusted with flour. Stir carefully not to break the berries. 
 Fill pans about three-quarters full and bake about one-half hour 
 in a moderate oven. Serve with stewed berries.— Mrs. Helen 
 Campbell. 
 
 Squash Muffins. 
 
 Cream, one-half cup butter, add one-half cup sugar and beat 
 two minutes, then add one and a half cups sifted squash, it 
 should be very dry, dilute with one and a half cups milk in which 
 has been dissolved one-half ounce yeast, mix stiff with flour, 
 perhaps five cups; knead well and let rise till light. Shape into 
 biscuit, raise slowly. It will take a half hour longer than for 
 plain rolls and they must not be too warm. Bake half an hour 
 in oven not so hot as usual. 
 
 Squash Muffins, No. 2. 
 
 One pint flour, two teaspoons baking powder, two eggs, one 
 teaspoon salt, four tablespoons sugar, one cup sifted squash, 
 and milk enough to make a drop batter (about one cup). Bake 
 like Tea Cake. 
 
/ 
 
 v - 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 I 1 
 
 Popovers. 
 
 One egg, one cup flour, one saltspoon sail, add gradually one 
 cup milk and beat furiously five minutes; have iron gem pans 
 or stone cups hissing hot, till half full, set in a white bread 
 oven and do not open the door for fifteen minutes. (They may 
 also be made with graham.) Mix with milk and cream, half 
 and half, or add one tablespoon melted butter in the last two 
 minutes' beating, and the popovers can be served with any 
 rich hot sauce for dessert and called Sunderland pudding. 
 
 Graham Puffs. 
 
 For one dozen puffs use three eggs, one pint of milk, one 
 pint of graham, one teaspoon of sugar, half a teaspoon of salt 
 and three eggs. Butter the muffin pans and place them where 
 they will get warm. Mix the graham, flour, sugar and salt; 
 beat the eggs till very light, and add the milk to them ; pour 
 it upon the dry ingredients, and beat well for three minutes; 
 turn the batter into the muffin pans, and bake in a rather hot 
 oven for half an hour. If the taste of rye be liked, half a pint 
 of rye meal may be substituted for the graham. 
 
 Corn Popovers. 
 
 Scald one pint of milk, add an even tablespoon butter, stir 
 in a generous half pint of sifted corn meal. When cool, add 
 three well beaten eggs, put in hot iron gem pans and bake as 
 above. 
 
 Graham Rolls. 
 
 These rolls properly made are excellent. Mrs. Susanna 
 Dodds gives the following directions for a perfect gem: Mix 
 graham or whole wheat flour with ice-cold water in the propor- 
 tion of two-thirds of a cup of water to a pint of flour; more 
 wetting must be used if the flour is very coarse. Stir fast 
 until a moderately stiff dough is formed, and knead thoroughly 
 from ten to fifteen minutes, till the dough is fine and elastic to 
 the touch. Roll half of it at a time into long rolls a little over 
 an inch in diameter; cut off and shape into rolls three or 
 four inches long and three-quarters of an inch thick. Work 
 quickly and place a little apart in a pan; prick them with a 
 fork and put the pan in a hot oven. When done they should 
 not yield to pressure between the thumb and finger. They are 
 to be eaten warm or cold and are just as good re-warmed as 
 when new. To do this dip in cold water, cover with cloth and 
 set in a moderate oven, when they will puff up lighter than at 
 first. These require slow mastication, and are sweet as a nut 
 and very^nutritious. — Hester M. Poole. 
 
 Rye Breakfast Muffins. 
 
 One cup rye meal, one cup flour, one cup milk, one-quarter 
 cup sugar, one-half teaspoon salt, two teaspoons baking 
 powder, one egg well beaten. Mix all the dry materials. Add 
 milk to the beaten egg and beat well together. Bake twenty 
 minutes in muffin tins in a quick oven. — Miss Parloa. 
 
 Wafers. 
 
 One pint whole wheat flour, one-half teaspoon salt; rub in a 
 tablespoon butter and make into a stiff dough with milk. Take 
 bits of double the size of an English walnut and roll them the 
 size of an eight inch plate. Bake in a hot oven till a golden 
 brown. 
 
 Gluten Wafers. 
 
 One-half cup good cream, one saltspoon salt, and gluten to 
 make a stiff dough: knead well, shape in long rolls, lay on un- 
 buffered baking sheet and roll as thin letter paper. Bake in 
 quick oven till lightly brown. — Mrs, Lincoln. 
 
 Beaten Biscuit. 
 
 Three pints pastry flour, one cup lard, one teaspoon salt, 
 rub lard and flour together and make into a very stiff dough 
 with milk or milk and water, knead and beat with rolling-pin 
 (or mallet) an hour, or work in machine for half that time. 
 The dough should be smooth and glossy, bits should break off 
 with a snap. Shape in thin flat cakes, pick all over with a sharp 
 fork and bake in a moderate oven to a delicate brown and till 
 the edges crack a little. They must have time enough to bake 
 thoroughly, or they will be heavy in the middle. 
 
 Dodgers. 
 
 Tut one cup Indian meal in the upper part of double boiter 
 with one-half teaspoon salt, when it boils pour on one cup boil 
 ing water, beat smooth, cook one hour, add one tablespoon 
 butter; drop by spoonfuls on a buttered griddle, pat them down 
 flat and when browned put a dot of butter on each before 
 turning. They are a good accompaniment to broiled ham, and 
 may be used for a winter breakfast cooked in the frying pan 
 after sausage or bacon. 
 
 Hoe Cake. 
 
 Put one quart of white corn meal into a bowl, add one lea- 
 spoon of salt, add to it sufficient boiling water to moisten, stirr- 
 ing all the time to make a stiff batter. Moisten the hands in 
 cold water. Take a tablespoon of the batter in your hand ami 
 press it into a thin round cake. 
 
 If you have an open fire, have before it an oak plank, well 
 heated. Place the cakes against the board in front of the lire. 
 Bake on one side and turn and bake on the other until thor- 
 oughly done, about three-quarters of an hour. These can also 
 be baked on a griddle on top of the lire. 
 
 When done pull apart, butter and send to the table hot. 
 Good.— Mrs. Borer. 
 
 Thin Corn Cake. "Splits." 
 
 One cup corn-meal (yellow), one-quarter teaspoon salt, one 
 round tablespoon butter, one and one-half cups boiling water, 
 one teaspoon sugar. Pour the boiling water on meal, sugar 
 and salt. Beat thoroughly. Add the butter and when well 
 mixed spread very thin on buttered tin sheets. Bake slowly 
 about twenty minutes. Pull apart and butter while hot. 
 
 Corn Meal Scones. 
 
 Put two cups of corn meal into a bowl. Add a teaspoon of 
 sugar, a teaspoon of salt, two teaspoons of baking powder and 
 mix it well together. Add a large teaspoon of butter. With 
 your hands rub it into the flour. Add to this sufficient cold 
 milk to make a batter that will drop, not pour from the spoon. 
 Bake on a griddle in muffin rings, as you would ordinary 
 muffins. — Mrs. Rarer. 
 
 Soft Johnny Cake. 
 
 Put to boil one pint water in a saucepan, one salt-spoon salt. 
 When it boils add one gill rolled oats and boil fifteen minutes. 
 Then stir in well half-pint corn-meal. Spread out on a small 
 frying pan. Cover close and bake twenty minutes. Turn and 
 bake ten or twenty minutes more according to its thickness; 
 with raisins, currants or chopped dates children will often relish 
 it without butter. Serve warm. It can be baked in an oven. 
 If spread out in a thin loaf it can be baked in a harder crust, 
 which some prefer. 
 
 Oatmeal Scones. 
 
 Oatmeal scones are made from the left-over porridge from 
 breakfast, which is often thrown away. Put a piece of butter 
 the size of a walnut into a cup, add quarter of a teaspoon of 
 bi-carbonate of soda; pour over this a gill of hot water; stir 
 until the soda is melted, then quickly turn it over the porridge 
 in the bowl. Mix well, turn it out on a bake board, knead it 
 into a round, flat mass, just as you would bread. Roll out the 
 dough to about a quarter of an inch thick ; divide it into three 
 and bake it on a hot griddle. This must be baked exceedingly 
 slow; when baked carefully on both sides, remove them from 
 the fire, and when ready to use toast them slowly for ten 
 minutes. 
 
 Oatmeal Breakfast Cakes. 
 
 Wet a pint of No. 2 oatmeal or granulated oatmeal with 
 sufficient water to saturate it w r ell and pour into a shallow pan, 
 making it half an inch thick or less. Bake twenty minutes in 
 quick oven. Break it like sponge cake and eat warm. It can 
 be made either crisp or moist. Corn meal cooked in the same 
 manner and eaten at once, is equally good. One would not be- 
 lieve without trying, how palatable and satisfying such simple 
 dishes can be made. Without butter, sugar or eggs and slight- 
 ly salted, the true flavor of the grain is developed. 
 
 Panacakes. 
 
 To bake panacakes with comfort do not grease the griddle; 
 if the cakes stick add a teaspoon of butter to the batter; it is 
 much better to have it there than on the hot griddle, where it 
 burns and fills the house with a vile smoke. Turn the griddle 
 often to keep the heat even. When using a gas range set the 
 cake griddle on two open griddles instead of one. Keep the 
 cake turner free from batter aud clear off all drops and crumbs 
 before putting on fresh batter. Let each cake bake until full 
 of holes and dry at the rim, turn only once and let it stand till 
 it has done puffing. Cakes made with a large proportion of 
 cooked material like rice, crumbs, etc., can be cooked more 
 quickly than when made wholly of flour. 
 
 French Pancakes. 
 
 Two cups flour, three eggs, one tablespoon sugar, a little salt, 
 one cup of milk. Heat well together for five minutes and fry 
 in hot butter, roll up and till with any kind of fruit, sprinkle a 
 little powdered sugar over the top and serve hot. 
 
\ 
 
 62 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 Pan Cakes, No. 1. 
 
 Make a batter with one pint of flour and one heaping tea- 
 spoon baking powder well sifted, add one and one-half cups 
 milk, beat two eggs, one-half cup melted butter, a little salt, 
 mix well and bake by the spoonful on hot griddle. 
 
 Pan Cakes, No. 2. 
 
 One pint flour, one-half teaspoon salt and one teaspoon 
 crushed soda sifted together, add one pint sour milk, two table- 
 spoons butter melted and two well beaten eggs ; beat well with 
 broad spoon, drop from the point of a tablespoon. Try one- 
 half graham or one-third corn meal for a variety. Cook the 
 last more slowly. 
 
 Add one pint huckleberries, cleaned and rolled in flour, or 
 one cup peaches cut tine, laid in sugar for one hour, or cherries 
 stewed sweet and drained. These are quite as nice as the 
 French pancakes and more digestible. 
 
 When eggs are scarce the cakes may be made with less or 
 even with none, but the amount of milk should be diminished 
 and the beating, not stirring, increased. 
 
 Pan Cakes with Rice. 
 
 No. 1. One pint soft boiled rice, stir in while hot two table- 
 spoons butter and let cool, add one-half cup milk, one-half cup 
 flour and two well beaten eggs. 
 
 No. 2 One pint soft boiled rice, if cold heat with two table- 
 spoons milk, mixing thoroughly with a fork; add one cup sour 
 milk, one cup flour in which there is one scant teaspoon of soda 
 and two well beaten eggs. 
 
 No. 3. One-half pint boiled rice, crushed and beaten grad- 
 ually into one quart milk, three cups flour sifted with three 
 teaspoons baking powder and one-half teaspoon salt, add two 
 ounces softened butter and two eggs beaten separately, folding 
 the whites in carefully the last thing. 
 
 These three rules are a very good epitome of the countless 
 variations one sees in cook books and newspapers. With these 
 for a standard one can vary at pleasure with crumbs, hominy, 
 oatmeal, sweet corn, etc. 
 
 Crumb Pancakes. 
 
 Into a double boiler put one tablespoon of butter, one and a 
 half cups coarse crumbs and one pint sweet milk; steam till 
 tender and rub through a sieve or Henes press. When cool add 
 the beaten yolks of two eggs and one cup flour in which two 
 teaspoons baking powder have been sifted. Beat the whites 
 stiff with a pinch of salt and fold in lightly; they should be 
 baked rather more slowly than the ordinary pancakes. If they 
 stick add a little melted butter, stirring in very carefully 
 
 Graham Pancakes. 
 
 Make a sponge as for bread with one pint milk, scalded and 
 cooled, one-quarter ounce yeast dissolved in the milk, with one 
 teaspoon sugar and one of salt, one cup graham or whole wheat 
 flour, one cup flour. Let it rise over night in a cool place. 
 Add one saltspoon soda dissolved in two tablespoons milk, 
 beat well, try a spoonful, and add more milk or soda to make it 
 right. Wheat bread sponge may be used in the same way. 
 
 Buckwheat Cakes. 
 
 Mix one-half cup of corn meal and one-half teaspoon of salt 
 with one pint boiling water, beat well and when cool add one-half 
 cup white flour and one cup buckwheat, with one-quarter ounce 
 dissolved yeast ; in the morning pour off the discolored water that 
 lies on top of the batter and dilute with one-half cup of milk in 
 which is dissolved one saltspoon of soda. Butter the griddle 
 lightly and bake in small cakes quickly; the batter is so thin that 
 they do not need much time. They should be thin, crisp 
 andf full of bubbles. Beat the batter and add more milk or 
 soda if needed before sending to the table. They will brown 
 better if made with milk, but will not be so crisp; a tablespoon 
 of molasses may be added. Save a cup of the batter to serve 
 as yeast for the next time, they improve with repeated use. The 
 griddle for these cakes as well as a waffle iron must be well 
 greased; fold a Ave inch strip of cotton, roll it around the end 
 of a pine stick, fasten it with a tack and when the cakes are 
 baked burn it. 
 
 Potato Pancakes. 
 
 Peel large potatoes over night and keep them in cold water; 
 grate, drain, and for every pint allow two eggs, beaten sep- 
 arately, one-half teaspoon salt, a dust of pepper and one table- 
 spoon flour, more or less according to the quality of the pota- 
 toes. Brown in thin cakes in butter. In winter use with meat, 
 in summer try tomato or any brown sauce. 
 
 Waffles. 
 
 Any of the recipes for pancakes can be cooked in a waffle 
 iron by adding more butter to make the proportion equal two 
 ounces butter to each pint of flour. Tolks and whites are 
 best beaten separately. 
 
 French Waffles. 
 
 One cup butter, one cup sugar, beaten together as if for 
 cake, add singly yolks of seven eggs, one tablespoon brandy, 
 and the grated peel of one-half lemon or one saltspoon mace. 
 Add alternately three cups flour and one pint of milk, beating 
 until it is full of bubbles, then add one ounce yeast, dissolved, 
 and the stiff whites of the eggs; let it rise three hours.— Mrs. 
 Bayard Taylor. 
 
 German Waffles. (Pfann-Kuchen.) 
 
 One-half cup butter, rub to a cream, add one cup powdered 
 sugar and the yolks of eight eggs, one at a time; add alter- 
 nately a scant cup milk, and two cups flour, in which two 
 teaspoons baking powder, one-half teaspoon 6alt and some 
 grated lemon peel have been sifted. — Mrs. Bayard Taylor. 
 
 PASTRY. 
 Puff Paste. 
 
 One pound flour (one quart), one teaspoon salt, one-third 
 pound butter, well rubbed together till like meal. If your hands 
 are hot, chop it together without touching it with the hands. 
 Mix stiff as possible with ice water and pat out on the board to 
 about one-third of an inch thick; lay this sheet of paste on ice 
 while two-thirds pounds butter is washed and worked in cold 
 water until waxy. Divide it in four parts and pat each out to as 
 thm a cake as you can, it is no matter if it is broken through in 
 holes. Set these sheets of butter on ice also. Now dust the 
 board and pin slightly with flour, place the sheet of paste on it 
 and one sheet of butter on the middle of the paste; fold the 
 paste over the butter in such a way as to divide the paste in 
 thirds, then turn over the ends letting them meet in the middle; 
 the paste is now in rectangular shape, and with a little care in 
 rolling can be kept so through all the subsequent foldings and 
 rollings. Roll out to one quarter inch thick and fold as before, 
 but without butter. The third time of folding enclose the 
 second piece of butter, and continue adding it at every alternate 
 rolling until it has all been used; as there were four sheets of 
 butter that will make eight times folding and rolling the paste. 
 Finally give one, two or three extra turns, as your patience 
 holds out; lay on ice until needed for use; it is better to lie for 
 several hours before being baked. If the paste sticks to the 
 board or pin lay on ice until chilled through, scrape the board 
 clean, polish with a dry cloth and dust with fresh flour before 
 tryinglagain. A stone slab is a comfort but not at all necessary. 
 Use as little flour in rolling as possible, but use enough to keep 
 the paste dry. Boll with a light, even, long stroke in every 
 direction, but never work the rolling-pin back and forth, as that 
 kneads the paste and toughens it, besides breaking the bubbles 
 of air. The number of layers of butter and paste makes it flaky, 
 but every bubble of air that is folded in helps it to rise and puff 
 in baking. 
 
 To Bake Puff Paste. 
 
 The dough should be ice cold when put into the oven. If it 
 softens while being cut into the desired shape, place it on the 
 ice again until hard. The oven should be as hot as for baking 
 white bread; set it on the floor of the oven at first until risen to 
 its full height, then slip a grate under to keep from burning 
 while baking through and browning; if the oven is too hot the 
 paste will set and scorch before it is risen; if too cold it will melt 
 and spread or slip out of shape. The exact temperature can 
 only be learned by practice. 
 
 For Pies. 
 
 Roll the paste out about one-third of an inch thick, then 
 roll up and cut from the end of the roll. Turn each piece on 
 the side so that the folds show the rings, pat out flat, then roll 
 a trifle larger than the plate. This should be used for the upper 
 crust only, and for a rim if desired; if used for under crust it is 
 always sodden and indigestible. 
 
 Tarts. 
 
 Are rolled as thin as convenient and cut with a fluted cutter. 
 They are served cold, tilled with jelly or jam. 
 
 Chopped or Rough Puff Pastry. 
 
 One pound flour, fourteen ounces butter, one teaspoon salt, 
 one cup ice water. Have flour, salt and butter ice cold and 
 chop the butter into it until there are no bits larger than a bean. 
 Pour in the water slowly, tossing the mass together until a little 
 
 
/ 
 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 03 
 
 more than half of the Hour is moistened. Turn on the rolling- 
 board, gather with a long knife into a square mound and press 
 down with a cold rolling-pin, rolling gently till the mass is 
 three times as long as it is wide, With a broad-hladed knife 
 turn over the ends so as to fold it in thirds and roll out again; 
 repeat, gathering all the loose crumbs between the folds at each 
 turn, until the loose pieces form a consistent sheet of paste. It 
 will usually need four turns, though three are sometimes enough. 
 This can be shaped and baked at once, but is more flaky if 
 allowed to chill on ice for an hour or more. 
 
 Plain Pastry. 
 
 One cup of flour, heaping, one saltspoon baking powder, one 
 saltspoon salt, one-quarter cup lard, one-quarter cup butter, 
 mix baking powder and salt with the flour; rub in the lard and 
 butter till fine and dry like meal. Mix to a stiff paste with ice 
 water; this makes a tender, crispy crust, but not in the least 
 flaky. If baked quickly and thoroughly it is as little hurtful 
 to the digestion as any pastry can be. To make it somewhat 
 flaky rub in only the lard, pat and roll out to one-third inch 
 thick, dot on one-half the butter in thin pieces, dust on flour 
 and fold in thirds; pat and roll out again, dot with remainder 
 of butter and roll up like a jelly roll; cut from the end as 
 directed for puff paste and it will give a fairly handsome crust 
 if properly done. All pastry needs a quick oven at first to keep 
 it from melting. Never grease the pie plate. All pies made 
 with an upper crust should have holes cut to let the steam 
 escape or the crust will be likely to be sodden on the underside. 
 Tin or granite ware plates are much the best, as they cannot 
 soak grease and they bake the under crust more quickly and per- 
 fectly. The English fashion of baking all fruit pies in deep 
 dishes, with no under crust, is admirable, being far more deli- 
 cious as well as more wholesome. Their meat and game pies, 
 made in the same way, win favor wherever they are introduced. 
 
 Apple Pie. 
 
 Line a plate with plain paste, fill with apples that have 
 been pared, cored and cut in eighths. Pile as high above 
 the edge as the bottom of the plate is below. Cover with either 
 chopped or puffed paste, and bake till apples are soft, about 
 thirty minutes. (Try them with a straw.) When done boil 
 three-quarters cup sugar in one-quarter cup of water five min- 
 utes. Pour this syrup boiling hot through the holes in the crust. 
 Tilt the pie a little until the syrup shows through on every side. 
 If you choose to put in the sugar before baking, sprinkle three- 
 quarters cup over the apples when the pie is little more than 
 one-half full, cover with remainder of apples and put on crust as 
 usual. Cut a bias strip of cotton one inch wide and long enough 
 to go around the plate, wring it out of cold water and bind the 
 edge of the pie with it. If pulled from the pie as soon as taken 
 from the oven, it will leave no mark. 
 
 Creamed Apple Tart." 
 
 Line a small, deep pudding dish, with pastry, pack in one 
 and a half pint cut apples, with three-quarters cup of brown 
 sugar and grated rind and juice of one-half lemon. Cover 
 and bake till well done. Lift the crust and pour in one pint 
 boiled custard. Return the cover and let it be ice cold when 
 served. This is an old fashioned, Dutch dish. Whipped cream 
 may be used for a filling; in this case heap it high and do not 
 put the cover on again. 
 
 Pie Plant Pie. 
 
 Wash the stalks and cut into inch bits without peeling, pour 
 boiling water over it and let it stand ten minutes, drain and 
 dredge lightly with flour; for a ten inch plate allow a heaping 
 cup of sugar, dot with one tablespoon butter cut in bits the size 
 of a pea, cover and bake in a quick oven for the first ten min- 
 utes, then more slowly until done, about thirty minutes in all. 
 
 Custard Pie. 
 
 Line a deep plate with a rim. Heat one pint of milk, rub 
 one teaspoon flour smooth with one-half cup cold milk, add to 
 the boiling milk and cook five minutes. Pour upon three beaten 
 eggs, one-half cup of sugar, one saltspoon salt and flavor to 
 taste, one-half teaspoon lemon or one teaspoon vanilla. Strain 
 * hot into the plate, bake slowly, never letting it boil. It is done 
 when a knife blade makes a clean cut. 
 
 Pumpkin Pie. 
 
 One cup of stewed and sifted pumpkin (or squash), one level 
 teaspoon salt, one saltspoon mace, one teaspoon cinnamon, two- 
 thirds cup sugar, one beaten egg well mixed together, 
 pour over one cup each of cream and milk boiling hot, fill the 
 . plate and set into oven as quickly as possible; if pumpkin is 
 watery add one teaspoon flour. It is done when it rises well in 
 the middle. A rim of puff paste can be laid around the edge 
 
 of the plate if liked, if used it should he at least one inch 
 wide and the edge that goes down into the squash rolled very 
 thin. Tor potato pie use boiled and sifted sweet potato in 
 place of pumpkin. 
 
 Sliced Potato Pic. 
 
 lloil sweet potatoes until well done. Peel and slice them. 
 Line a deep pie pan with good plain paste ami arrange the 
 sliced potatoes in layers, dotting with butter ami sprinkling 
 sugar, cinnamon and "nutmeg over each layer, using at least one- 
 half cup sugar. Pour over three tablespoons whiskey, about 
 one-half cup water, cover with pastry and bake. Serve warm. 
 —Mrs. J. B. 8. Holmes, Rom ■ , Oa. 
 
 Lemon Pie, No. 1. 
 
 One cup of milk, one cup of sugar, one tablespoon corn- 
 starch cooked over hot water for at least fifteen minutes, one 
 saltspoon salt, the yolks of three eggs and the white of one 
 egg, grated rind and juice of one lemon. Fill the paste while 
 hot and bake quick. Beat the whites of two eggs stiff, add 
 slowly two tablespoons of sifted powdered sugar, spread over 
 the pie as soon as it comes out of the oven and return it to dry 
 and brown slightly. 
 
 N. B. Leave the door ajar. 
 
 Lemon Pie, No. 2. 
 
 Grated rind and juice of one lemon, one cup sugar, one-half 
 cup of milk, two tablespoons cracker dust, two eggs, one salt- 
 spoon salt. Good baked in old fashioned way between two 
 crusts, but better used to fill shallow muffin pans that have been 
 lined with rough puff paste; cover with a meringue. 
 
 Cherry Tart. 
 
 Pick over one and one-half pounds of cherries; turn a tiny cup 
 upside down in the middle of a deep pie dish, fill around it with 
 the fruit, add sugar to taste. Lay a wide strip of plain paste 
 around the edge of the dish, cover and press the edges firmly 
 together with a pastry jagger, bake in hot oven and serve with 
 powdered sugar sprinkled thickly on top. All juicy fruits are 
 most excellent cooked in the same way. 
 
 Mirlitons. 
 
 Pound and sift six macaroons, add one tablespoon grated 
 chocolate and one pint hot milk. Let stand ten minutes and 
 then add the yolks of three eggs well beaten, one tablespoon 
 sugar, one teaspoon vanilla. Line patty tins with puff or 
 chopped paste, fill with the mixture and bake in a quick oven 
 twenty minutes. 
 
 Brambles. 
 
 One lemon grated whole, one cup raisins, seeded and chopped 
 fine, one-half cup sugar, one egg, one tablespoon cracker dust, 
 bake in "turnovers'' or patty pans, or better still, roll trimmings 
 of puff paste as thin as possible, put a layer on a baking sheet, 
 spread with above mixture and cover with another flat of paste. 
 Mark off with a pastry jagger in strips four inch long by two 
 inch wide and bake in a quick oven. These are nice with a thin 
 icing and are delicious with cocoa for lunch. Another richer 
 filling is made by chopping very fine one quarter pounds figs, 
 two ounces citron, one quarter cup pistachio nuts (or almonds), 
 two ounces seeded raisins, add one egg well beaten and use like 
 the above. 
 
 Mince Pies, Plain. 
 
 Two coffee cups chopped beef and small piece, about four 
 ounces, of fat salt pork, four coffee cups sugar, one nuthieg, one 
 coffee cup molasses, two lemons, rind and juice, or sour orange, 
 four teaspoons salt, two cups cider, boiled with the molasses, 
 four teaspoons cinnamon, four cups of chopped fruit (raisins, 
 citron, currants), one teaspoon cloves, one cup suet, finely 
 chopped. Mix and scald, pack down in jars and pour a little 
 brandy on top. When used, add six cups apple and stoned 
 raisins ad /il. 
 
 Mince Pies, Richer. 
 
 One pound fresh beef, one pound tongue, one-half pound salt 
 pork (scalded) chopped very line, one pound large raisins, seeded, 
 one pound Sultana raisins, one pound currants, three-quarter 
 pound "A" sugar, three-quarters pound granulated sugar cara- 
 mel, one pint of rich stock, one pint of boiled cider, fruit juice or 
 soft jelly, simmer till well blended. Add one tablespoon salt, 
 two teaspoons cinnamon, one teaspoon allspice, one teaspoon 
 clove, one teaspoon mace, one teaspoon nutmeg, one-half pound 
 citron, shredded. Cool and taste; add more seasoning if liked. 
 Pack in glass jars, pouring two tablespoons of brandy on the 
 top of each. When ready to use, add two and one-half cups of 
 chopped raw apples to each cup of the mince; partly cook and 
 put into the pies hot, adding lemon (grated rind and juice) and 
 rose water, : f liked. 
 
 / 
 
WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 USE THE WORLD RENOWNED 
 
 Washburn, Crosby Co. 
 
 The Perfect Bread and Pastry Flour.- 
 
 The Washburn Crosby Co. 
 
 FL0UR 
 
 G) 
 
 WILL YIELD FROM 
 
 40 to 60 Pounds more Bread to the Barrel 
 
 THAN FLOUR MADE FROM WINTER WHEAT. 
 
 . . . ONE TRIAL Ax^D YOU WILL USE NO OTHER. . . 
 
WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 65 
 
 if, 
 
 Genoese Pastry. 
 
 Four ounces of flour, throe of butter, four of almond paste, 
 and five eggs, Melt the butter in a bowl, taking care it does 
 
 not get very hot. Break the eggs into a bowl, add the sugar to 
 them, stand the bowl in a saucepan of boiling water and whip 
 eggs and sugar for twenty minutes, but they must not gel very 
 hot; take the bowl from the water, add the almond paste, 
 crumbled line, to it, beat till smooth then add the butter, and 
 last of all sift in the Hour, stirring lightly all the t hue. Line a 
 round, jelly-cake pan with buttered paper, neatly fitted and 
 standing an inch above the edge; bake in a rather quick oven 
 for half an hour. When it is done, no mark should remain 
 on it when pressed with the linger. 
 
 The Easiest Way in Cake Making. 
 
 Make ready all the materials before beginning to put any 
 cake together: that is, see that flour, butter and sugar are 
 weighed" or measured as the recipe calls for. Let the lire be 
 in good condition to finish baking without putting on fresh 
 coal. If the fire is too hot, discourage it by leaving the 
 griddles open for five minutes or less, then sprinkle on a little 
 fresh coal without increasing the draft. Leave the oven doors 
 open a few minutes before putting in a sponge cake, if it is 
 still too fierce. If too hot on top, set a pan of cold water on 
 the grate above the cake— never lay a paper over it. Thin 
 cakes need a hotter oven than loaves and should bake in ten 
 minutes; sheets of cake in from fifteen minutes to one-half 
 hour; loaves from one-half hour to an hour, while fruit cake 
 will require from two to four hours. Do not attempt to bake a 
 fruit cake weighing over fifteen pounds in an ordinary stove 
 oven. Send it to some first-class baker unless you c- so fort- 
 unate as to have an old-fashioned brick oven in your house. 
 Whatever kind of cake you are baking, divide the time into 
 quarters; during the first quarter it should not change except 
 by rising; during the second it should finish rising aiid begin 
 to brown; during the third and fourth finish browning, settle a 
 very little and shrink from the pan. On first taking from the 
 oven, set for a few minutes on a stove hearth or shelf where 
 you can barely hold your hand. A very light, delicate cake 
 will fall if cooled too quickly, or shaken while hot. 
 
 Pans should be greased with sweet lard or unsalted beef fat, 
 as butter scorches so easily; line them with paper and grease 
 the paper very little; if the paper is thin, not at all. In baking 
 pound or fruit cake, line the pan with more than one thick- 
 ness of paper; on the bottom there may be as many as six, 
 but in such cases only the layer next to the cake needs to be 
 greased. 
 
 Mix cake in an earthen bowl and always with a wooden 
 spoon (or the hand). Use only the best materials; it is better 
 to go without cake than try to make it, or eat it when made 
 with "cooking" butter, second rate eggs or low grade baking 
 powders. 
 
 Coarse texture with large holes shows insufficient beating 
 and too large a measure of baking powder. Brown sugar may 
 be used for fruit cake, but finest granulated (or sifted) is the 
 best. Coarse granulated sugar makes a heavy cake with a hard 
 sticky crust, powdered sugar makes a tight, close-grained cake, 
 and measure for measure is not as sweet as the granulated, if 
 weighed, there is not much, if any, difference. The recipes in 
 this book are proportioned for patent flour; if pastry flour is 
 used, take about one-eighth more. All flour should be sifted 
 once before measuring. 
 
 Never beat eggs until the last possible moment before using: 
 in beating whites of eggs with a Dover beater, hold it as nearly 
 as possible to the horizontal instead of perpendicular and 
 there will be nearly one-half greater bulk of foam than when 
 beaten as usual. Eggs will beat up lighter if laid on ice till 
 chilled through before using. Baking powder should be sifted 
 with a part of the flour and added with the white of an egg 
 at the last. 
 
 Measure exactly, and use all the materials. A teaspoon of 
 butter left sticking to the measuring cup, a tablespoon of milk 
 spilled on the table, one-half an egg left not wiped from the 
 shells or at the bottom of the bowl in which it was beaten, 
 does make a difference in the cake. With a small palette knife 
 it is possible to scrape out the last speck of butter, every atom 
 of egg, each grain of sugar and flour. 
 
 In making butter cake mixtures observe the following order. 
 Warm the bowl, and scald wooden spoon with boiling water, 
 then wipe dry. Rub ' butter to a cream, add sugar and beat 
 again until light. If the proportion of sugar is more than 
 double the butter, beat a part of it with the yolks of the eggs. 
 Add a tablespoon of flour to prevent curdling before putting 
 in any liquid; beat in the beaten yolks, then add milk and 
 flour alternately, Aaking care not to let the mixture become 
 very still nor verf soft; lastly add the beaten whites, and beat 
 
 long and hard to make sure of having it smooth and line 
 grained. Fruit should be added last, or if in thin large pieces, 
 ft may be put in layers as the dough is put into pans. 
 
 Ice is baked when it shrinks from the pan and stops 
 hissing: or when a straw thrust into the center comes out 
 Clean, Let stand on a warm surface five minutes or less, then 
 turn out on a sieve or wire netting (a window screen will do), 
 remove paper at mice, peeling it back in narrow strips to avoid 
 taking off the brown crust. If the cake should happen to 
 burn, rasp the too brown portion with a coarse grater. 
 
 There are really but two elementary forms of cake— that 
 made with butter, known as pound cake, and that made with- 
 out butter, known as sponge cake. The modilicat ion of pound 
 cake, in which the proportion of Hour is increased with the ad- 
 dition of milk, is called cup-cake, and this makes the basis of 
 almost all the plain loaf and layer cakes. Whenever the 
 measure of butter is made scant, the flour should be dimin- 
 ished in proportion; if the quantity of egg is lessened, the 
 milk must be lessened also, or the flour increased. 
 
 In the following recipes proportions only will be given, full 
 directions for putting together having been already given. The 
 few exceptions to the general rule will be given in detail. 
 
 Sponge Cake, No. 1. 
 
 Six eggs, once their weight in finest granulated sugar, one- 
 half their weight in flour, one-half teaspoon salt, the grated 
 rind and juice of one lemon. Beat the eggs, yolks and whites 
 together, with a spoon-whisk for twenty minutes, beating with 
 a long, steady stroke; sift in the sugar with the left hand, keep- 
 ing up the beating with the right, then add lemon juice and 
 rind and lastly fold in the flour, not beating any more. If it 
 has been put together right it will have a light spongy texture 
 and seem rather dry. Bake in a rather deep tin about fifty 
 minutes. Do not open the oven door for the first fifteen 
 minutes, at the end of that time it should begin to rise, at the 
 end of the next fifteen minutes it should double its bulk and 
 by the end of the next twenty minutes it should be sufficiently 
 browned and baked through. 
 
 Sponge Cake, No. 2. 
 
 Three eggs beaten to a cream, one and one-half cups of sugar, 
 add one-half cup of cold water, two cups of flour in which has 
 been sifted two teaspoons baking powder, one saltspoon salt 
 and flavoring to suit the taste. (N. B. Try grated rind of one- 
 half lemon.) Beat hard for two minutes and bake thirty to 
 forty minutes in a rather quick oven. 
 
 Berwick Sponge. 
 
 Same recipe as above but the cake is beaten five minutes for 
 each ingredient added. 
 
 Jelly Roll. 
 
 One cup flour, one cup sugar, one and one-half teaspoons 
 baking powder, three eggs well beaten. Mix in order given, 
 beat well and pour into a smooth, well-greased pan; bake slow, 
 spread jelly over and roll it up. 
 
 Note. — Have ready a smooth sheet of brown paper well 
 dusted with powdered sugar, turn your cake on it and spread 
 quickly with the jelly which should be well broken with a fork 
 if at all stiff. With a sharp knife trim off all the crusty edges 
 and roll it by lifting one side of the paper. The cake will break 
 if allowed to cool before rolling. To keep the roll perfectly 
 round hang it up in a cloth till cool. 
 
 Children's Sponge Cake. 
 
 One and one-half cups Hour, two teaspoons baking powder, 
 one cup sugar, two eggs broken into a cup and the cup filled 
 with milk or cream." Stir all together in a mixing bowl, beat 
 hard for live minutes and bake about ten minutes in muffin 
 pans or a large pan with a chimney. 
 
 Graham Sponge Cake. 
 
 Use recipes either No. 1 or 2, substituting sifted graham 
 meal for flour and making the measure round instead of level. 
 
 Sunshine Cake. 
 
 Eleven whites of eggs, six yolks of eggs, one teaspoon cream 
 of tartar, one and one-half cups sifted granulated sugar, one. 
 cup patent tiour. one teaspoon extract orange. Beat whites 
 till stiff and flaky, then whisk in one-half the sugar, beat yolks 
 very light and add flavor and one-half the sugar, put yolks and 
 whites together and fold in Hour and cream of tartar, mixing 
 as quickly as possible. Bake fifty to sixty minutes in a slow 
 oven, using Angel Cake pan. 
 
66 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 Angel Cake. 
 
 One and one-half cups granulated sugar, measured after 
 sifting, one cup of pastry flour, one teaspoon cream of tartar, 
 sift together eight times, then sift flour and sugar together 
 three times. Beat the whites of eleven eggs with a wire 
 beater, until they are dry and flaky. Pour over one teaspoon 
 vanilla, fold in the mixture of flour and sugar. Get into a 
 moderate oven as quickly as possible and bake about, one hour. 
 The pan should have a chimney and little legs on top so that 
 when turned over a current of air can pass under it. Do not 
 grease the pan. Never try to take it out, but stand upside 
 down till it drops of itself. — Mrs. Lincoln. 
 
 Note— Some authorities advise sifting the cream of tartar 
 into the eggs when about half beaten. This prevents the cake 
 from falling, but makes a closer grain than when mixed with 
 the flour. 
 
 Orange Cake, No. 1. 
 2 cups sugar, 2 teaspoons baking powder, 
 
 i cup butter (scant), 5 eggs (omit one white), 
 
 2 cups flour, Grated rind of one orange, 
 
 J cup orange juice. 
 
 Filling and Frosting. 
 
 White of one egg beaten stiff; add alternately powdered 
 sugar and orange juice till the juice of one large orange and 
 one-half a lemon has been used. It will take from one and 
 one-half to two cups XXX sugar. 
 
 Orange Cake, No. 2. 
 
 Two eggs, one cup of sugar, one tablespoon melted butter, 
 one-half cup of milk, one and one-half cups of flour, two tea- 
 spoons baking powder, one tablespoon of orange juice, one 
 teaspoon grated rind, mix in order given, bake in square pan, 
 split and till with orange cream. 
 
 Orange Cream. 
 Put into a cup the rind of one-half and the juice of one 
 orange, one tablespoon of lemon juice, and fill with hot 
 water. Strain and put on to boil, add one tablespoon corn 
 starch, wet with cold water and cook ten minutes, being care- 
 ful not to scorch. Beat yolk of one egg with two heaping 
 teaspoons sugar, add to the mixture with one teaspoon butter, 
 let cook until the butter is dissolved, and cool. Fill the cake 
 with cream and frost with orange icing.— Boston Cook Book. 
 
 Lemon Cake. 
 
 Is made by the above recipe, using lemon instead of orange. 
 
 Pine Apple Cake. 
 
 Same recipe using pineapple juice and pulp instead of orange, 
 and frosting the top and sides with live-minute frosting. 
 
 Pineapple Cake, No. 2. 
 
 One-half pound butter, one-half pound sugar beaten to a 
 cream; add the well beaten yolks of three eggs, two cups flour, 
 in which has been sifted two teaspoons baking powder. Flavor 
 with two tablespoons pineapple juice; or use two tablespoons 
 water and one-fourth teaspoon mace with one-half teaspoon 
 vanilla. Bake in three jelly cake tins. 
 
 Filling.— Boil two cups sugar with two-thirds cup cream for 
 ten minutes. Take from the fire and beat till thick and smooth. 
 To one-third of this add one cup grated pineapple to spread be- 
 tween the layers. To the remaining two-thirds add enough pine- 
 apple juice to make it spread smoothly for an icing. 
 
 Ashland Cake. 
 
 i cup butter. J cup milk. 
 
 1 cup sugar. 1 cup flour. 
 
 4 eggs, whites. I cup corn starch. 
 
 10 drops lemon extract. 1 teaspoon baking powder. 
 
 Bake in two deep jelly cake tins. 
 Filling for Above— Two cups granulated sugar, one- 
 quarter cup of boiling water. Boil till it will spin, then pour 
 slowly boiling hot on the well beaten whites of two eggs beat- 
 ing all the time. Beat till thick enough not to run, then add 
 one-half teaspoon citric acid (powdered), one teaspoon each of 
 lemon and vanilla, spread between the layers and over the cake, 
 or, ice with maple fondant. 
 
 Plunkets. 
 
 Cream one-half pound butter, add gradually one-half pound 
 granulated sugar. Separate six eggs. Beat whites until stiff 
 beat yolks, add them to the whites, then to butter and sugar. 
 Sift together twice six ounces cornstarch, two ounces flour and 
 one teaspoon baking powder and add gradually to the other 
 mixture; add one teaspoon vanilla. Bake in patty pans fifteen 
 minutes. — Mrs. Sorer. 
 
 Quisset Cake. 
 
 One-half cup butter rubbed to a cream with one and one-half 
 cups sugar, add yolks of three eggs well beaten with two table- 
 spoons of milk, one and one-half cups flour (heaping) in which 
 has been sifted two level teaspoons baking powder, one-hall' 
 cup milk, six tablespoons chocolate melted over hot water, and 
 lastly three whites of egg. Bake in two narrow loaves. 
 
 Frosting.— Two cups granulated sugar, three fourths cup 
 milk, one ounce butter. Boil fifteen minutes, beat till thick, 
 spread while warm. Is best after the third day. 
 
 One Egg Cake. 
 
 One-half cup butter, one cup of sugar, one egg, two cups 
 of flour, one cup of sweet milk, two teaspoons baking powder. 
 Mix well and bake in a hot oven. 
 
 Cup Cake. 
 
 1 cup butter, 1 cup milk, 
 
 2 cups sugar, 4 eggs, 
 
 3J cups flour, 1 heaping teaspoon baking 
 
 powder. 
 
 Put together according to general directions, bake in two 
 brick loaves or one large one. 
 
 Using but half a cup of butter and a scant measure of sugar 
 makes a plain cup cake that is useful for layer. 
 
 A heaping tablespoon of yellow ginger makes this cake a 
 most delicious ginger bread. Omit the milk and add enough 
 flour to roll out and it can be baked as jumbles, or with half 
 the milk and flour to roll out, as cookies. 
 
 White Cup Cake. 
 
 Same as above, using eight egg whites instead of four whole 
 eggs. The yolks of ti eggs with one whole one makes an ex- 
 cellent gold cake. 
 
 Delicate Cake. 
 
 \ cup butter, J cup milk, 
 
 1J cup sugar, 4 eggs (whites only), 
 
 2 cups flour, 1 teaspoon baking powder. 
 
 Almond, vanilla or lemon extract for flavoring. Makes one 
 sheet. 
 
 Layer Cakes. 
 
 Make once the rule for pound cake, adding grated rind and 
 juice of one-half lemon, and divide it into quarters; into the 
 first put three large tablespoons vanilla chocolate grated, into 
 the second one cup almonds blanched and grated, into the 
 third one-fourth pound each raisins and currants, or one- 
 quarter pound citron, into the fourth one cup butternut meats 
 cut fine. Put the layers together with boiled icing and ice the 
 sides and top thickly. 
 
 Marsh Mallow. 
 
 Make once the rule for white cup cake, baking in three layers; 
 make a boiled frosting with one and one-half cups sugar, one- 
 half cup water, three egg whites, one-half teaspoon citric acid 
 and one teaspoon vanilla. Spread a layer of icing between the 
 cakes, and into each layer of icing press marsh mallows cut in 
 halves, setting them as thick as possible; after the top is iced 
 set marsh mallow thickly around the edge. If they are put in 
 while the cake and icing are warm they will soften enough to 
 blend well. 
 
 Chocolate. 
 
 Once the rule for cup-cake— bake in three layers. Filling No. 1 . 
 Three teaspoons corn starch, quarter pound grated chocolate, 
 one cup sugar, heaping, one ounce butter, mixed; when melted 
 add one cup boiling milk, cook fifteen minutes in double- 
 boiler, beating hard until glossy, cool five minutes, add two 
 teaspoons vanilla, a speck of salt and spread while w-arrn. 
 
 Filling, No. 2. 
 
 Melt one-quarter pound baker's chocolate over warm water 
 and stir it into twice the rule for boiled icing, spread while 
 warm as it stiffens quickly. If too firm, beat in slowly sweet 
 cream until as thin as desired. 
 
 Fig. 
 
 Make one-half the measure of cup-cake and one-half the 
 white cup cake. Bake in square cake tins and put together 
 alternately with the rule for boiled frosting. Add three-quarters 
 pound of figs chopped fine. Ornament the top with choice figs 
 cut in slices or strips. 
 
 Fig. No. 2. 
 
 Split the figs and lay them flat in the layers of white cake be- 
 fore baking. Put the layers together with one pound figs, 
 chopped line and stewed till soft in syrup made with one cup 
 water and one-half cup sugar. 
 
/ 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 Fruit Filling. 
 
 One cup stoned raisins, one-half pound blanched almonds, 
 one-hair pound figs, one-half pound citron, all chopped line, 
 add enough frosting to make a soft paste. 
 
 Lemon Filling. 
 The prated rind and juice of one large lemon, one cup sugar, 
 two eggs (or four yolks), one-half ounce butter; simmer all to- 
 gether for ten minutes and use when cool. 
 
 Almond Cream Filling. 
 
 The whites of two eggs beaten stiff, with two cups of XXX 
 sugar, one teaspoon extract vanilla, one pint blanched almonds 
 
 chopped line. Walnuts, pecans, hickory and butternuts are 
 used in the same way. 
 
 Pound Cake. 
 
 Wash and dry half a pound of butter. Beat it with the 
 hand until it is quite creamy, then add hall' a pound of sugar. 
 Heat, it until it is like the lightest and whitest hard sauce, then 
 add one egg, beat until it is quite incorporated, then add 
 another and beat again, and so on until live, eggs are used. 
 Take great care that each egg is completely incorporated be- 
 fore the next is added; this requires from three to live minutes' 
 beating between each egg, according as your strokes are vig- 
 orous or slow, and on sufficient beating the success of the cake 
 depends. 
 
 When eggs, sugar and butter look like thick yellow cream, 
 add gradually a small sherry-glass of wine or brandy, and half 
 a wine-glass of rose water. Mix well together, then sift to the 
 ingredients half a pound of linest hour, well dried, and very 
 Slightly warm, to which half a saltspoon of salt has been 
 added. Line a round cake pan with upright sides with but- 
 tered paper, neatly titted, and pour the batter into it, and sift 
 powdered sugar over the surface. 
 
 Hake this cake one hour and a half in a very slow oven. It 
 should have a cardboard cover laid on the top for the first 
 hour, which may then be removed and the cake allowed to 
 brown slowly. In turning, be very careful not to shake 
 or jar it. 
 
 Wedding Cake. 
 
 Double the measures in the above mixture, add two eggs, 
 making twelve in all, and omit llavoring. Add two tea- 
 is each of cinnamon and mace, one teaspoon each of 
 nutmeg and allspice, one-half teaspoon cloves, one ounce 
 chocolate dissolved over warm water, two pounds raisins 
 (weighed after seeding), two pounds Sultana raisins, two pounds 
 currants, one and one-half pounds citron, two ounces each of 
 candied lemon and orange peel, one pound shredded almonds 
 which have been blanched and dried, two ounces brandy, two 
 ounces port wine, two ounces strained honey. Let the Hour 
 used for drying the fruit be in addition to the one pound of 
 batter. Mix well and rest a few hours, overnight, if convenient; 
 mix again before putting into pans. Should be made six months 
 before it is needed and will keep indefinitely. 
 
 Scotch Short Bread. 
 
 1 pound flour, 
 
 \ pound powdered sugar, 
 
 i pound butter, 
 \ ounce caraway seeds or \ 
 pound caraway comfits. 
 Beat butter to a cream, add flour, sugar and seeds mixed; 
 knead the paste smooth, roll out one-half inch thick and cut in 
 oblong cakes. Prick all over and bake in moderate oven one- 
 half hour. 
 
 Hickory Nut. 
 One cup butter, two and a half cups sugar, one cup milk, five 
 eggs, three and a half cups flour, two teaspoons baking powder, 
 one pint hickory nut meats, one-half pound citron, one pound 
 raisins, one ounce each candied lemon and orange peel. This 
 makes two sheets. Bake one hour. 
 
 Wedge Nut. 
 
 Two cups sugar, six eggs, one tablespoon warm water, two 
 teaspoons cream of tartar, one teaspoon soda, one teaspoon salt, 
 two rounding cups flour, one pound Brazil nuts blanched and 
 grated. Bake like a pound cake. 
 
 Frosting — Two cups sugar, one teaspoon cream of tartar, 
 one teaspoon corn starch, ten tablespoons water boiled till it 
 spins. Beat slowly int6 whites of two eggs beaten stiff. Fla- 
 vor with almond. — Miss Theodosia Stiles, Chicago. 
 
 White Fruit. 
 
 One cup butter, two cups sugar, three cups flour, eight eggs, 
 whites, three level teaspoons" baking powder, one-half glass 
 white wine, one-quarter pound citron," one-half pound almonds, 
 three-quarters cup dessieated cocoanut, one cup light Sultana 
 raisins. This makes two brick loaves. 
 
 Bedford Jumbles. 
 Two CUpS sugar, one CUp butter, beaten well together; add 
 
 one-half cup flour and four well beaten eggs, • tablespoon 
 
 vanilla anil flour enough i" roll out. One-half cup grated 
 nut is a delicious addition, or finely shred almonds laid on 
 each i 
 
 One-half cup stoned and chopped raisins makes Hermits. 
 Bake them one-quarter inch thick. 
 
 Ranaque Buns. 
 
 One-half pound butter, three-quarters pound sugar, one 
 d Sour, three eggs, four teaspoons cinnamon. .Mix the 
 cinnamon with the flour and beat into tin-' creamed butter; 
 the sugar into the eggs, and then all together as little as possi- 
 ble. Distribute by teaspoonfuls into rough-looking cakes p) 
 at a little distance apart, on buttered tins. — Mrs. Henderson. 
 
 Ginger Snaps. 
 
 One cup molasses. poon soda, one-half cup sugar, one- 
 
 half cup butter, one tablespoon ginger, flour to roll very thin. 
 Mix molasses, sugar, ginger and butter, stir over the lire until 
 the butter is melted, then stir in quickly four cups of flour in 
 which has been sifted the pulverized soda. Knead the dough 
 until it becomes smooth and set on ice, over night if possible. 
 Roll as thin as pasteboard and bake in a quick oven. 
 
 Ginger Cookies. 
 
 One cup molasses, two tablespoons warm milk or water, one 
 tablespoon ginger, one-half cup of soft butter, one teaspoon 
 soda, flour to mix soft as can be handled on the board. Mix in 
 order given, dissolving soda in the milk. Shape on a floured 
 board into balls the size of a hickory nut. Lay on a sheet and 
 flatten with a tin cup or smooth tumbler to one-half inch thick. 
 — School Kitchen Text-Book. 
 
 Ft. Atkinson Gingerbread. 
 
 1 cup New Orleans molasses, 1 egg, 
 
 1 cup boiling water, 1 teaspoon soda, 
 
 2 cups flour, heaped, 1 teaspoon ginger, 
 
 i cup butter, 2 tablespoons sugar. 
 
 Stir butter and sugar together, then rub it into the flour till 
 fine, add molasses and yolk of egg and beat well: lastly, add 
 the boiling water and white of egg beaten stiff. Makes a thick 
 sheet in a biscuit pan. "Easiest Way." 
 1 cup molasses, i cup sugar, 
 
 1 cup sour cream, 1 egg— beaten, 
 
 2£ cups flour, 1 teaspoon ginger. 
 
 } teaspoon nutmeg, 1 rounding teaspoon soda. 
 
 Brandy Snaps. 
 
 One-half pound XXX sugar, A pound flour, A pint molasses, 
 1$ ounce butter; melt the butter in warm molasses, work in 
 the flour and sugar quickly; drop in dots on a large sheet. 
 Bake in an oven at about 300°.— 3Jiss Theodosia Stiles, Chicago. 
 
 Brioche Paste. 
 
 For two large loaves allow one quart flour, one heaping cup 
 butter, one-half cup water, one tablespoon sugar, one teaspoon 
 salt, one-half ounce yeast and eight eggs. Dissolve the yeast 
 in the water which should be blood warm, and make into a 
 sponge with one cup of flour, beating well. Cover and set in a 
 warm place (aboutSCP) until it has doubled its bulk, it ought to 
 take about half an hour. After the sponge has been set. put the 
 remainder of the flour with the sugar, salt, butter and three of 
 the eggs into a large bowl. Mix with the hand to a smooth 
 paste, then add the other eggs, one at a time, beating the paste 
 hard until smooth and light. The eggs should not be beaten 
 first. Add the sponge to this paste as soon as it is light, cover 
 and let rise again to double its bulk; it will take about six 
 hours. Then beat it well, and set on or beside the ice in the ice- 
 box for ten or twelve hours, and it will be ready for use. If the 
 sponge is set at two o'clock p. m. and added to the paste at 
 three p. m. it ought to be ready to set on the ice at nine in the 
 evening, and will be ready for use in the morning. 
 
 Baba. 
 
 For one large loaf use three cups paste, one-half cup currants, 
 one cup raisins, one-half cup wine. Soak the fruit over night 
 in the wine. In the morning work all into the paste. Butter a 
 deep mould and put the paste into it. Cover and let rise to 
 double its bulk (about one and a half hours.) Bake in a 
 moderate oven forty minutes. Turn upside down as soon as it 
 comes from the oven. While the cake is cooling, make a syrup 
 by boiling one cup sugar with three-fourths cup water for 
 twelve minutes, add four tablespoons rum or any cordial, pour 
 over the cake, being careful to wet the whole surface, and serve 
 cold. 
 
68 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 Savarin. 
 
 Work one-half cup candied orange peel, cut very fine, into 
 four cups of the paste. Butter a round cake pan thickly with 
 washed butter and sprinkle it with one cup chopped almonds. 
 Bake as above and pour over a syrup flavored with anisette. 
 
 Eclairs. 
 
 Put one cup of boiling water and half a cup of butter in a 
 large saucepan, and when it boils turn in one pint of flour. 
 Beat well with the vegetable masher. When perfectly smooth, 
 and velvety to the touch, remove from the fire, and as soon 
 as cold break into it five eggs, one at a time, beating hard with 
 the hand. When the mixture is thoroughly beaten (it will take 
 about twenty minutes), spread on buttered sheets in oblong 
 pieces about four inches long and one and a half wide. These 
 must be about four inches apart. Bake in a rather quick oven 
 for about twenty-five minutes. As soon as they are done, ice 
 with either chocolate or vanilla frosting. When the icing is 
 cold, cut the eclairs on one side and fill them. 
 
 Make an icing with the whites of two eggs and a cup and a 
 half of powdered sugar. Flavor with one teaspoon vanilla ex- 
 tract. Frost the eclairs; and, when dry, open, and fill with a 
 cream, the same as Chocolate Eclairs. They may be filled with 
 cream sweetened, flavored with vanilla, and whipped to a stiff 
 froth. Strawberry and raspberry preserves are sometimes used 
 to fill Eclairs. They are then named after the fruit with which 
 they are filled. 
 
 Chocolate Eclairs. 
 
 Put two squares of scraped chocolate with five tablespoons of 
 powdered sugar and three of boiling water. Stir over the fire 
 until smooth and glossy. Dip the tops of the eclairs in this 
 as they come from the oven. When the chocolate icing is dry, 
 cut open, and fill with this. Put one and a half cups of 
 milk in the double boiler. Beat together two-thirds cup of 
 sugar, one-fourth eup of flour, two eggs, and one-fourth tea- 
 spoon of salt. Stir the mixture into the boiling milk. Cook 
 fifteen minutes, stirring often. When cold, flavor with one 
 teaspoon of vanilla. If chocolate is liked with the cream, one 
 tablespoon of the dissolved chocolate may be added to it. 
 
 Meringue Shells. 
 
 The whites of two eggs, beaten until it will not slip out of the 
 bowl, fold into it very gently three ounces of powdered sugar, 
 remembering the rule that anything to be mixed with white of 
 egg must be done with a light lifting motion of the spoon, 
 rather than stirring, which may liquefy the eggs. Fill a 
 tablespoon with the mixture and turn on to a sheet of white 
 paper placed on a board which has been made a little damp, 
 the mounds should be oval like half an egg. Put them in a 
 very cool oven for fifteen or twenty minutes, then open the door 
 and leave them ten minutes longer, the idea is to make the crust 
 as thick as possible which is done by the long slow drying; if firm 
 enough remove them from the paper, take out the moist center 
 very carefully, and when cold fill them with cream, flavored, 
 sweetened and whipped solid, then put two together; they 
 should be overfull, and the cream show considerably between 
 the two sides.— Catherine Owen. 
 
 Doughnuts, No. 1. 
 
 Two eggs beaten light, one cup sugar, one cup sour cream, 
 four cups flour, one-half teaspoon soda, one teaspoon each of 
 cinnamon and salt. Have board well floured and take on it one 
 large spoon of dough, kneading gently till firm enough to roll 
 out and cut. Mix the trimmings with a fresh spoon and roll 
 again, repeating until all are used. Cook in fat hot enough to 
 make them rise instantly to the top.— Mrs. Henderson. 
 
 Note. — It is more satisfactory to have two teaspoons baking 
 powder sifted with the flour, and scant the measure of soda. 
 
 Doughnuts, No, 2. 
 One cup New Orleans molasses, two eggs, one-half cup sweet 
 milk, one tablespoon melted butter, one teaspoon each of ginger 
 and cinnamon, two teaspoons baking powder, one teaspoon 
 salt, flour to roll as soft as can be easilv handled. Fry as usual 
 and roll in powdered sugar as soon as done.— Creole Cook Book. 
 
 "Jolly Boys." 
 
 One cup rye meal, one cup flour, one and one-half cups milk, 
 one-half teaspoon salt, two teaspoons baking powder, two eggs 
 well beaten. Mix all the dry ingredients. Add milk to the 
 beaten egg and beat well together. Drop by teaspoons into 
 hot fat, and fry till they are thoroughly done, about five min- 
 utes. They will turn themselves if not too much crowded. 
 Serve hot with maple syrup. 
 
 Wafers. 
 
 1 cup butter. 1 cup sweet milk. 
 
 2 cups sugar. 3 eggs. 
 
 3 heaping teaspoons baking powder. Nutmeg to taste. Flour 
 to shape stiff. Mrs. J. A. Noyes. 
 
 FROSTING. 
 
 Five Minute. 
 
 The white of one egg, one teaspoon lemon juice, one scant 
 cup of powdered sugar stirred together until the sugar is all 
 wet, then beat with a fork for just five minutes; spread quickly 
 on the cake while warm. — Boston Cook Book. 
 
 Boiled. 
 
 Boil one cup granulated sugar, a speck of cream of tartar, 
 and one-third cup water until it spins a thread when dropped 
 from the spoon, then pour in a fine stream into the white of an 
 egg beaten stiff, beating as you pour; continue beating until stiff 
 enough to stand alone, add flavoring and spread quickly on the 
 cake with a knife dipped in warm water. 
 
 Ornamental. 
 
 One cup sifted, powdered sugar, one teaspoon lemon juice, 
 the white of an egg; beat the egg until it is all frothy but not 
 dry, then sprinkle over three teaspoons sugar and beat five 
 minutes; add one teaspoon each five minutes till quite thick, 
 then put in the lemon juice. Beat with a fork and when a 
 point of it will stand in any position it is ready to press through 
 a pastry tube upon the cake, which should be already covered 
 with a smooth plain frosting and dry. 
 
 Golden. 
 
 Beat two yolks of egg with one cup sugar and one-half tea- 
 spoon old Jamaica rum, add more sugar if not stiff enough to 
 hold its place. 
 
 Chocolate. 
 
 Melt one ounce chocolate, add one teaspoon powdered sugar, 
 and add to the boiled frosting till it is dark as you wish. 
 
 Orange. 
 
 Grate the thin rind of an orange and soak it one-half hour 
 in three teaspoons lemon juice. Squeeze the juice through a 
 fine muslin and use like the lemon in five-minute frosting. 
 
 Gelatine. 
 
 Dissolve one teaspoon gelatine in three tablespoons warm 
 water, add one cup pulverized sugar and beat until smooth. 
 Flavor to taste. 
 
 Sugar Glaze. 
 
 One cup powdered sugar, one tablespoon lemon juice, about 
 one tablespoon boiling water; beat hard till smooth and semi- 
 transparent. Spread on the cake as soon as taken from the oven. 
 
 Chocolate Glaze. 
 
 Omit the lemon juice from the above recipe and add three 
 heaping tablespoons of pulverized chocolate and one teaspoon 
 vanilla. 
 
 Fondant. 
 
 Two cups sugar, one cup water, a bit of cream of tartar half 
 as large as a pea. Boil without stirring until a little dropped 
 into ice water can be gathered into a ball and rolled like wax 
 between the fingers. Cool and and stir to a soft cream. Add 
 flavor or coloring while cold, then soften over hot water and 
 spread while warm. 
 
 Maple Fondant. 
 
 1 cup yellow or maple sugar, one-half cup thin cream ; boil 
 together fifteen minutes, take from fire and stir constantly till 
 it stiffens, spread quickly on warm cake as it hardens very fast. 
 
 PUDDINGS AND SAUCES. 
 English or Christmas Plum Pudding. 
 
 One and one-half pounds bread crumbs, two ounces citron, 
 one-half pound ' flour, two ounces almonds, blanched and 
 shreded, two pounds suet, chopped fine, two small nutmegs, 
 grated, two pounds currants, two pounds raisins, one lemon 
 juice and grated rind, two pounds sugar, one teaspoon salt, two 
 ounces candied lemon peel, sixteen eggs, one wine glass of 
 brandy, and enough milk to make stiff paste. Mix in order 
 given and let rest over night. In the morning put into buttered 
 moulds and steam for twelve hours and as much longer as con- 
 venient. AVhen it is to be used, steam for two hours more. 
 stick a sprig of holly in the top, pour two tablespoons brandy 
 over and bring to the table blazing. Serve with English sauce. 
 
WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 69 
 
 Washburn, Crosby Go. 
 
 PROPRIETORS 
 
 | Washburn Flour jWills 
 
 ■ ' ■ i iiimn w — ' ' 
 
 ^ f^HE WASHBURN MILLS MAKE: 
 
 (o 
 
 W 
 
 ^ 
 
 13,000 Barrels of Flour every Day. 
 78,000 Barrels every Week. 
 
 4,056,000 Barrels a Year. 
 
 THE WASHBURN MILLS are the largest flour mills in the world. 
 
 £$$100? 
 
 THE WASHBURN MILLS have a floor surface of ten acres. The 
 combined steam and water power is equal to 8,500 horse power. 
 
 THE WASHBURN MILLS require 200 cars every day to take 
 wheat into, and flour and offal out of them. 
 
 THE WASHBURN MILLS' flour has taken the highest award 
 wherever entered for competition. 
 
 (aution. 
 
 Every Barrel or Sack of Wash- 
 burn's Flour bears the firm name 
 
 in full, Washburn, Crosby P^ None other genuine. 
 
WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 English. 
 
 Three egg yolks, two lumps sugar well rubbed on lemon 
 rind, one-half cup sugar, one-half saltspoon salt, one-quarter 
 cup sherry. Add one cup of milk, set in hot water and beat till 
 light and frothy. 
 
 Suet Pudding. 
 
 One cup molasses, one cup chopped suet, three cups flour, 
 one-half teaspoon salt, one teaspoon soda. Steam one and one- 
 half to two hours. 
 
 Whole Wheat Pudding. 
 
 Two cups of whole wheat meal, half a teaspoon of soda, half 
 a teaspoon salt, one cup of milk, half a cup of molasses and one 
 cup of stoned dates. Put the fruit into the meal and mix until 
 they are thoroughly floured; add soda, salt, milk and molasses: 
 this will make a very soft batter, but the dry fruit absorbs a 
 great deal of moisture. Steam three hours in a closed mould: 
 serve with any plain pudding sauce, wine sauce, or whipped or 
 beaten cream. If sour milk is used, add one level teaspoon of 
 soda. Raisins, figs, stewed prunes, or other preserved fruits, or 
 chopped sweet apples, make a pleasing variety. 
 
 Caramel or Browned Sugar. 
 
 Brown one cup of sugar and dissolve in half a cup of hot 
 water. This makes a nice sauce for wattles also. 
 The above will make a serving for twelve or fourteen people. 
 
 Steamed Apple Pudding. 
 
 Fill a baking dish with tart, juicy apples, quartered and cored" 
 Cover with one-half the rule for Shortcake No. 1. Steam or 
 cook on top of stove until the apples are tender, then set in oven 
 to brown the crust. Serve with creamy or hard sauce. 
 
 Creamy. 
 
 One heaping teaspoon butter, softened, two cups powdered 
 sugar, one well-beaten egg rubbed to a cream together, add one- 
 half cup thick cream and one teaspoon vanilla. If it should 
 separate set it over hot water and stir until smooth again. Keep 
 on ice till wanted. 
 
 Hard Sauce. 
 
 One-half cup butter well beaten; stir in slowly one cup fine 
 sugar, and beat to a cream. Pile on a plate and grate over a 
 little nutmeg. Keep cool. 
 
 Poor Man's Pudding. 
 
 One cup rice, well picked and washed, one-half cup sugar, 
 two quarts milk, one teaspoon salt, one-half teaspoon cinna- 
 mon; bake very slowly for three to four -hours, keeping 
 covered as much as possible until the last fifteen minutes, then 
 lift the cover to brown the top. It should be creamy and not 
 dry when done. 
 
 Cottage. 
 
 One cup of milk, three-fourths cup of sugar, one egg, three 
 tablespoons melted butter, two teaspoons baking powder sifted 
 with two and one-half cups flour. Bake one-half hour and serve 
 with liquid sauce. — Boston Cook Book. 
 
 Put in the bottom of a round pudding dish, one pint of firm 
 fruit, sliced apples, bananas, peaches, cherries, etc., if very acid 
 sweeten to taste, add one tablespoon salt, let them heat through, 
 pour over the above mixture, bake thirty-five to forty minutes, 
 invert on round plate, serve with cream or sauce. The fruit 
 may also be stirred into the batter and baked in a round loaf, 
 If the fruit is very juicy scant the measure of milk a little, if 
 bananas are used make banana sauce. 
 
 Plain. 
 
 Two cups water, one cup sugar, boiling; stir in one table- 
 spoon cornstarch, wet with cold water, one teaspoon butter, 
 one lump sugar well rubbed on lemon rind, or any flavoring 
 preferred. Care must be taken to cook corn-starch well or it 
 will taste raw. 
 
 Delicate Pudding. 
 
 One and one-half cups water, one-half cup sugar, and one-half 
 saltspoon salt, well mixed and brought to the boiling point. 
 Wet three tablespoons cornstarch in a little cold water, stir 
 into the boiling syrup and cook ten minutes. 
 
 ISeat the whites of three eggs to a dry froth and whip the 
 boiling mixture into them; return to the fire one minute to set 
 the egg, adding one-half cup lemon juice and a little of the 
 grated rind. 
 
 Turn at once into a border mold that has been wet in cold 
 water, and set away to become ice-cold. Serve with straw- 
 berries or other fruit piled high in the center; or pour a soft 
 custard around as a sauce.— Mrs. 8. T. Robe?: 
 
 Strawberry. 
 
 One large tablespoon butter beaten to a cream. Add grad- 
 ually one and one-half cups powdered sugar, and the beaten 
 white of one egg. Beat till very light, and just before serving 
 add one pint mashed strawberries. 
 
 Soft Custard. 
 
 One pint milk scalded, yolks of four eggs, two tablespoons 
 sugar, one-half saltspoon salt. Cook over hot water till it will 
 mask the spoon, strain, cool and flavor. Is improved for some 
 things by having the sugar browned as for caramel sauce. 
 
 Maple Sugar. 
 
 One-fourth pound maple sugar, one-half cup water, boiled 
 together till it will spin. Whisk boiling hot into the beaten 
 whites of two eggs add one-half cup thick cream and a little 
 lemon juice to taste. 
 
 CREAMS, CUSTARDS, ETC. 
 
 Devonshire Cream. 
 
 Let the milk stand twenty-four hours in winter (twelve in 
 summer), then set it on the stove till almost at the boiling point. 
 It must not bubble, but should show wrinkles and look thick. 
 The more slowly it is done the firmer it will be. On the follow- 
 ing day skim it by folding over and over in small rolls, and set 
 them on ice till wanted. This is also known as "clotted cream. - ' 
 
 Blanc Mange. 
 
 One-half cup Irish moss. Wash in tepid water, pick over and 
 put into double boiler with one quart milk. Boil until it thick- 
 ens when dropped on a cold plate. Add one-half saltspoon salt, 
 strain, not allowing bits of moss to pass, add flavoring and turn 
 into a mould that has been wet with cold water. Sea Moss 
 Farina may be used — one level teaspoon to a quart of milk. 
 Heat slowly and stir often. 
 
 Boiled Custard. 
 
 One quart milk, four eggs, four tablespoons sugar, one salt- 
 spoon salt, one teaspoon cornstarch, one teaspoon vanilla. Dis- 
 solve cornstarch in a little of the cold milk, add to the remain- 
 der of the quart boiling hot and cook ten minutes. Beat eggs 
 and sugar together, pour the boiling milk over them and return 
 to the fire until thick enough to mask the spoon, take off at 
 once, set into cold water and stir often until almost cold. Add 
 the flavoring and strain into the dish from which it is to be 
 served. This custard may be used at discretion with cake 
 sliced or crumbled, macaroons, fruit, singly or combined to make 
 a great variety of dishes. 
 
 Cocoanut Custard. 
 
 Add one cup grated cocoanut after straining. 
 
 Chocolate Custard. 
 
 Melt one ounce of chocolate over hot water, rub well with 
 little of the hot custard and add before straining. 
 
 Orange Custard. 
 
 Cook like soft custard. Just before serving, add the juice of 
 two and the lightly grated rind of one orange. 
 
 Baked Custard. 
 
 Make a custard, using one quart milk, one-half cup sugar, 
 six eggs, speck salt; strain into a mold or cups, set in a 
 deep pan and fill two-thirds of the way to the top of the mold 
 with water. Bake in a very moderate oven. Test often with 
 a knife and take out the instant the knife blade comes out 
 smooth and clean. These two recipes are the foundation for num- 
 berless varieties of desserts, according to the fancy of the cook. 
 
 For Caramel Custard brown the measure of sugar as for car- 
 amel sauce, dissolve it in the milk and finish according to 
 directions for baked custard given above. This is often served 
 as a pudding with caramel sauce. 
 
 Bavarian Cream. 
 
 Whip one pint cream to a stiff froth; it ought to make two 
 quarts; if too rich to whip add a little milk. Make a custard 
 with the cream that drains from the whip, adding milk enough 
 to make one pint, one scant cup sugar, one-half box gelatine 
 softened in cold water, the yolks of four eggs and one teaspoon 
 vanilla. Cook one minute and strain into a broad pan set in ice 
 water. Watch it carefully and as soon as it begins to thicken 
 add the whipped cream, folding it in as for an omelet. Put into 
 molds and set on ice to harden. This, too, is the foundation for 
 a large variety of creams. 
 
 
WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
 71 
 
 Add the boiling 
 Keep on ice until 
 
 Coffee Bavarian Cream. — Use one cup clear strong coffee 
 and one cup milk to make the custard. 
 
 Chocolate.— Add one ounce chocolate, melted, to the hoi 
 custard before straining. 
 
 Peak, Pineapple or I'i: mil— Take one pint sifted pulp 
 instead of one pint milk and omit the eggs. 
 
 Strawberry or any other small fruit. Three pints berries 
 mashed lint', strain the juice, add one cup sugar, gelatine soaked 
 as above and dissolved in one cup boiling water. Add whipped 
 cream and mold as before. 
 
 Almond. -Add one pint sweet almonds blanched and 
 pounded to a paste, soak the gelatine with milk. 
 
 Pistachio. - As above. 
 
 Orange. 
 
 Make the custard with the yolks of six eggs, one-half pint of 
 cream drained from the whip, add the grated rind of one orange 
 and a pint of orange juice with an extra half cup sugar add an 
 ounce (one-half box) soaked gelatine, cool and fold in whipped 
 cream as usual. 
 
 JELLIES WITH GELATINE. 
 
 Wine. 
 
 i box gelatine. 1 cup wine. 
 
 i cup cold water. 1 cup sugar. 
 
 1 pint boiling water. 1 lemon. 
 
 Soak the gelatine in cold water until soft, 
 water, wine, sugar and lemon juice. Strain, 
 ready to serve. 
 
 Orange. ■ 
 i box gelatine, 1 pint orange juice. 
 
 i cup cold water, 1 cup sugar. 
 
 1 cup boiling water. 1 lemon. 
 
 Soak the gelatine in the cold water twenty minutes or until 
 soft. Add the boiling water, sugar, orange and lemon juice. 
 Strain. Keep on the ice until ready to serve. Cut the orange 
 rinds in baskets and fill with the jelly broken irregularly just 
 before serving. 
 
 Lemon. 
 
 Same as above, except one cup lemon juice and one pint boil- 
 ing water. 
 
 Coffee Jelly. 
 
 One-half box Cox's gelatine, soaked one hour in one-half 
 cup cold coffee. Add one quart strong coffee and one cup 
 sugar, one teaspoon vanilla. Cool in a crown mould, letting it 
 stand on ice over night if possible. Turn on a large platter and 
 heap whipped cream in the center as high as possible. The 
 cream is often flavored with kiimmel or other cordial. 
 
 Calf-Foot. 
 
 4 calf feet. 2 lemons. 
 
 4 quarts cold water. 2 inch stick cinnamon. 
 
 i box gelatine. 3 eggs. 
 
 1 cup sugar. 1 pint wine. 
 
 Wash and split the feet, add the water and cook slowly until 
 the flesh separates from the bones and the stock is reduced to 
 three pints. Strain. When cold remove the fat, add the whites 
 and shells of the eggs, the cinnamon, sugar, the gelatine 
 which has been soaked in one-half cup cold water twenty min- 
 utes, and the juice of the lemons. Stir until hot. Let it simmer 
 fifteen minutes. Add the wine. Skim and strain through a 
 line napkin into tumblers. 
 
 Orange Charlotte. 
 
 One-third box gelatine, one-third cup cold water, one-third 
 cup boiling water, one cup orange juice and pulp, juice of 
 lemon (more or less according to the sweetness of oranges), 
 whites of three eggs. 
 
 Line a bowl with the sections of oranges, lady fingers or 
 sponge cake. Soak the gelatine in cold water until soft; pour 
 on the boiling water, add sugar and lemon juice; strain and 
 add the orange juice and pulp with a little of the grated rind. 
 Cool in a pan of ice water. Beat the whites of the eggs stiff, 
 and when the orange-jelly begins to harden, beat light," add the 
 whites and beat until stiff enough to drop; mold and cool on 
 ice. One pint whipped cream may be used. instead of the 
 whites of eggs, or it may be piled on top after the charlotte is 
 removed from the molds; loosen thoroughly all around the 
 edges with a palette knife; place a dish firmly over the mold 
 and turn quickly upside down. This will keep for several days 
 if the seeds and white core of the oranges are removed. 
 
 Another pretty way to fill the dish is to make the center fill- 
 ing of strawberry juice, or line the dish with strawberries bv 
 dipping them in soaked gelatine (which should be quite stiff 
 .and flavored with strawberry juice), and sticking them to the 
 sides, and fill with a plain charlotte russe. 
 
 To make a Snow Pudding, beat tin gelatine and whites of 
 eggs separately; lei the gelatine stiffen first, then beat in tin- 
 white of eggs. 
 
 Charlotte Kusse, No. 1. 
 
 1 pint cream. 1 speck salt, 
 
 } cup powdered sugar, < dozen lady Angers. 
 
 1 teaspoon vanilla. 
 
 Mix the c-nam, vanilla and sugar. Set into ice water and 
 when chilled whip to a thick troth. Drain and fling into a 
 dish that has been lined with the cake. Keep on ice till 
 wanted. Serve in the same dish. 
 
 Charlotte Russe, No. 2. 
 
 Like No. 1, but as in Bavarian Cream (add one half-box gela- 
 tine). Fill individual cups or paper cases with the cream, orna- 
 ment with thin fancy cut slices of sponge cake and a little 
 block of plum jelly ou each. 
 
 ICE CREAM, SHERBETS, ETC. 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR FREEZING. 
 
 A freezer holding four quarts is the most satisfactory size 
 for family use, and it is well worth while to invest in a crown 
 ice chip at the same time. The hole for draining away water 
 should be about three-quarters of the distance from bottom to 
 top and should never be plugged lest the water rise high 
 enough to enter the can. About ten quarts of fine ice and 
 three pints coarse salt will be needed for a gallon freezer. 
 "Diamond C" rock salt is the best grade to use, and if 
 drained from the water and dried will serve for several 
 freezings. After adjusting the can in the freezer pack 
 fine ice about five inches deep at the bottom. Sprinkle this 
 with oue cup of salt and add another layer of ice; alternate 
 salt and ice till even with top of can, packing it down solid 
 every time salt is added. Pour on one quart cold water and 
 begin turning the handle, slowly at first, but after five minutes 
 as fast as convenient, in order to insure a fine smooth cream. 
 More salt will freeze it quicker, but the cream will be coarse 
 grained or even lumpy. Remove the beater as soon as the 
 cream is frozen, and work the frozen mass together with a 
 wooden spoon, packing it solid in a mold if desired. Cover 
 closely, corking the hole in the cover, and if it is to stand very 
 long, repack with fresh ice and salt. Cover the whole freezer 
 with a blanket or piece of carpet and set in a cool place, tipping 
 it slightly to let extra water run from the drainage hole. 
 
 At serving time, lift out the mold, hold for two or three 
 minutes under the cold water faucet, wipe dry and turn 
 quickly on to a napkin folded on an ice cold platter. 
 
 To keep over night or for several hours butter the joint of 
 the mold and also cut a strip of cloth an inch wide, spread it 
 with soft butter and wrap around the joints where the cover 
 fits the mold, drawing as tight as possible and lapping the ends 
 well. This will keep out salt water. 
 
 Ice Cream. 
 
 Whip and drain one pint cream, to the thin part that drains 
 from the whip, add one scant cup sugar, one cup cream, one 
 cup milk, and scald thoroughly. Cool and add one tablespoon 
 vanilla or any flavoring preferred, freeze till like soft mush, 
 then put in the whip and turn the freezer as fast as possible 
 for five minutes; pack and let stand thirty minutes before 
 serving. This is the best and simplest way to make it if you 
 can get cream. 
 
 Ice Cream, No. 2. 
 
 One pint milk, two eggs, one cup sugar, one pint cream (or 
 more), one level teaspoon flour, one-half cup sugar, one salt- 
 spoon salt, one tablespoon flavoring. Boil the milk, mix the 
 sugar, flour and salt, and stir into it. Cook twenty minutes, 
 stirring constantly; pour boiling hot on two well beaten eggs, 
 beating well. Strain, add cream, sugar and flavoring, and 
 freeze as usual. 
 
 Ice Cream, No. 3. (With Gelatine.) 
 
 One quart cream, one pint milk, one tablespoon vanilla, one 
 cup sugar, one-eighth package gelatine soaked till perfectly soft 
 and then drained; one-half saltspoon salt. Scald the milk and 
 sugar, pour boiling hot over the gelatine, add salt, strain and 
 cool. Whip the cream, add it to the milk and freeze as usual. 
 This has the merit of packing easily into fancy forms and hold- 
 ing its shape in a warm room better than pure cream. 
 
 These three standard preparations form the basis of almost 
 all the varieties of frozen creams. 
 
 Chocolate.— Melt three ounces baker's chocolate over hot 
 water and stir it into No. 2. 
 
 Coffee.— Substitute one pint strong coffee for the milk in 
 No. 3 
 
72 
 
 WASHBURN, CROSBY CO.'S NEW COOK BOOK. 
 
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 Fruit Creams. 
 
 Prepare No. 1, omitting the cup of milk; when half frozen, 
 beat in one pint to one quart fruit pulp sweetened to taste and 
 finish as usual. Peach is improved by the addition of a little 
 Maraschino, and other fruits by some flavoring or cordial to 
 accent their natural flavor. 
 
 Nut Creams. 
 
 Pistachio, almonds, filberts, etc., should be blanched, pounded 
 fine with a little water, and simmered in the milk of No. 3, till 
 the flavor is well extracted. It may be strained for a smooth 
 cream, or the bits of nut left in. 
 
 Frozen Puddings. 
 
 Are usually prepared with No. 3, using four or more egg yolks 
 in addition to the gelatine. Let the custard cook two minutes, 
 then strain over the gelatine; when dissolved strain again into 
 the freezer. Wine, cordials or other flavorings should be added 
 when half frozen, and the fruit or nuts stirred in as it is packed. 
 Preserves of any kind cut in small pieces, French candied fruit, 
 chestnuts blanched and simmered in a thick syrup till tender, 
 almond paste rubbed fine, Canton ginger, powdered macaroons, 
 cake crumbs, etc., are all used singly and in combination at the 
 whim of the confectioner. The following is given for illustra- 
 tion and suggestion. 
 
 Nesselrode Pudding. 
 
 One-half pound almond paste, thirty French chestnuts, one 
 pint cream, a pint can pineapple, the yolks of ten eggs, half a 
 pound of French candied fruit, one tablespoon vanilla extract, 
 four of wine, one pint water, one of sugar. Blanch the chestnuts 
 and pound to a paste. Rub almond paste smooth. Boil the 
 sugar, water and juice from the pineapple twenty minutes. 
 Beat the yolks of the eggs, and stir them into the syrup. Put 
 the saucepan in another of boiling water, and beat the mix- 
 ture with an egg beater until it thickens. Take off, place in a 
 basin of cold water, and beat ten minutes. Mix the almonds 
 and chestnuts with the cream. Add the candied fruit and the 
 pineapple, cut fine. Mix this with the cooked mixture. Add 
 the flavor and half a saltspoon salt. Freeze the same as ice 
 cream. Pack in a chimney mold. In serving, fill the hole with 
 preserved chestnuts; lay thick beaten cream around the form 
 and garnish with preserved cherries and pieces of other fruit. 
 
 TABLE OF EQUIVALENTS. 
 
 A speck makes one-quarter saltspoon. 
 
 Four saltspoons make one teaspoon. 
 
 Three teaspoons make one tablespoon. 
 
 Eight tablespoons of dry and solid material make one cup. 
 
 Sixteen tablespoons of liquid material make one cup. 
 
 Two gills make one cup. 
 
 One wine glass makes one-half gill. 
 
 One cup contains eight ounces of liquid. 
 
 Ten eggs, average size, make one pound. 
 
 One-half ounce bottle extract makes twelve teaspoons. 
 
 One tablespoon butter makes one ounce. 
 
 One tablespoon granulated sugar makes one ounce. 
 
 One heaped tablespoon powdered sugar makes one ounce. 
 
 One tablespoon flour makes one-half ounce. 
 
 Two tablespoons ground spice make one ounce. 
 
 Five nutmegs make one ounce. 
 
 One quart sifted pastry flour makes one pound. 
 
 One quart less one gill, sifted patent flour makes one pound. 
 
 One scant pint granulated sugar makes one pound. 
 
 One pint butter makes one pound. 
 
 One pint chopped meat, packed, makes one pound. 
 
 One cup rice makes one-half pound. 
 
 One cup cornmeal makes six ounces. 
 
 One cup stemmed raisins makes six ounces. 
 
 One cup cleaned currants makes six ounces. 
 
 One cup stale bread crumbs makes two ounces. 
 
 TABLE OF PROPORTIONS. 
 
 One quart of flour requires one pint of butter, or butter and 
 lard mixed for pastry. 
 
 One quart of flour requires one heaping tablespoon of buttter 
 for biscuit. 
 
 One quart of flour requires two tablespoons of butter for 
 shortcakes. 
 
 < >ne quart of flour requires one cup of butter for cup cakes. 
 One quart of flour requires one-half level teaspoon of salt. 
 
 One quart of flour requires four teaspoons of baking 
 powder. 
 
 One quart of flour requires one pint of milk for muffins, 
 gems, etc. 
 
 One quart of flour requires one scant quart of milk for 
 batters of all kinds. 
 
 One measure of liquid to three measures flour for bread. 
 
 One teaspoon of soda to one pint of sour milk. 
 
 One teaspoon of soda to one cup of molasses. 
 
 One teaspoon of salt to one pound of meat. 
 
 A spoon means that the material should lie as much above 
 the edge of the spoon as the bowl sinks below it. A heaping 
 teaspoon means that the material should lie twice as high 
 above the edge of the spoon as the bowl sinks below it. A level 
 teaspoon should hold sixty drops of water. All dry materials 
 are measured after sifting. 
 
 A spoon of salt, pepper, soda, spice is a level spoon. 
 
 One-half of a spoon is measured by dividing through the 
 middle lengthwise. 
 
 A speck is what can be placed within a quarter inch square 
 surface. 
 
 TIME FOR COOKING SUMMER VEGETABLES. 
 
 Greens— Dandelions 1% hours. 
 
 Spinach 1 hour. 
 
 String beans 2 hours. 
 
 Green peas 20 minutes. 
 
 Beets 1 to 3 hours. 
 
 Turnips 1 to 3 hours. 
 
 Squash 1 hour. 
 
 Potatoes Vj hour. 
 
 Corn x i hour. 
 
 Asparagus % hour. 
 
 This applies to young and fresh vegetables. 
 
 TIME FOR COOKING WINTER VEGETABLES. 
 
 Squash 1 hour. 
 
 Potatoes, white % hour. 
 
 Potatoes, baked 1 hour. 
 
 Sweet Potatoes % hour. 
 
 Baked Sweet 1 hour. 
 
 Turnips 2 hours. 
 
 Beets Z% hours. 
 
 Parsnips 1 hour. 
 
 Carrots l l { hours. 
 
 Cabbage 3 hours. 
 
 Broiling. 
 
 
 Steak, one inch thick 4 to 6 minutes 
 
 Steak, two inches thick 8 to 15 minutes. 
 
 Fish, small and thin 5 to 8 minutes. 
 
 Fish, thick 15 to 25 minutes. 
 
 Chickens 20 to 30 minutes. 
 
 TIME TABLE FOR MEATS. 
 
 Beef, underdone, per pound 9 to 10 minutes. 
 
 Beef fillet of 20 to 40 minutes. 
 
 Mutton, leg, per pound 10 to 12 minutes. 
 
 Mutton, stuffed shoulder, per pound 18 minutes. 
 
 Veal, loin of, plain, per pound 15 to 18 minutes. 
 
 Veal, stuffed 20 minutes. 
 
 Pork, spare rib, per pound 15 to 20 minutes. 
 
 Pork, loin or shoulder, per pound 20 to 30 minutes. 
 
 Liver, baked or braised 1 to \y % hours. 
 
 Corned Beef, per pound 25 to 30 minutes. 
 
 Boiled (simmered) Beef, per pound 20 to 30 minutes. 
 
 Ham, after water or cider begins to boil 15 to 20 minutes. 
 
 Bacon, per pound 15 minutes. 
 
 Chickens, baked, three to four pounds 1 to 2 hours. 
 
 Turkey, ten pounds 3 hours. 
 
 Goose, eight pounds 3 hours. 
 
 Buck, tame 40 to CO minutes. 
 
 Duck, wild 30 to 10 minutes. 
 
 Grouse, pigeons and other large birds 30 minutes. 
 
 Small birds 10 to 15 minutes. 
 
 Venison, per pound 15 minutes. 
 
 Fish, long and thin, six to eight pounds 1 hour. 
 
 Fish, thick, six to eight pounds \\i to 2 hours. 
 
 Fish, small 25 to 30 minutes. 
 
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