> \^ <^ %^- o 0' xX^'^ vX'- ^0 O^ <^^^ V' . •^.. .xV > V ':' xo S'i : .c,^% o 0' \' '^ 1 -- ^^y. V^ .O' s' '.. ,^^ ^0^ # . ,0 o^ •X^^ V •/• ■^ \\ - V 1 « <. ^A V^ ^' .^ .^^^.'^ <^ S' S'^ %r ^■\ 0' .V v^ \.^ *.'''>"/ > X"^ ' ^'' r♦5#^l!!^S*. ' ''t< v^^ -^-i. oV ,\. p ^0C -^' .<:' o> •'.> -->. / •Vv. .aX^ <^/. v> V-, .lV 'OO' % -^^ vV .y .,\' m % m FIVE O'CLOCK TEA BREAKFAST, DINNER AND SUPPER OR What to Eat and How to Prepare It CONTAINING ALL THE LATEST APPROVED RECIPES IN EVERY DEPARTMENT OF COOKING; INSTRUCTIONS FOR SELECTING MEATS AND CARVING; DESCRIPTIONS OF THE BEST KITCHEN UTENSILS, ETC. INCLUDING HYGIENIC AND SCIENTIFIC COOKING RULES FOR DINNER GIVING; USE OF THE CHAFING DISH; MENU CARDS FOR ALL SPECIAL OCCASIONS; COOKING FOR INVALIDS; VALUABLE HINTS FOR ECONOMICAL HOUSEKEEPING, ETC. THE WHOLE FORMING A STANDARD AUTHORITY ON THE CULINARY ART MAUD C. COOKE Author of " Social Etiquette," Etc., Etc. Superbly Embellished with Engravings in Colors and Phototype Illustrations NATIONAL PUBLISHING COMPANY ''^^' ^ 230 LEVANT Street Philadelphia -d"' Kntcred according to Act of Congress, in the year 1897 bv (;. W. EERTRON, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, I). C, All Rights Reserved. INTRODUCTION " '^^ F making many books there is no end." This we are told by the wisest of men, and the phrase mighi well be quoted with reference to cook books. Yet, in itself, is this fact a token that there is a recognized need of, and a reaching out for the coming cook book; the Scientific and Hygienic Treatise on Cookery that shall be an aid to health and happiness in each household where its influence is felt, and thus it comes to pass that there is always a market for the new cook book. In pursuance of this idea, the pages of this book have catered not sim- ply to the wants of the rich, who are usually provided with high-price chefs to plan their daily menu, but have sought to prove a trusty guide, also, to that great body of people who must clothe, feed and house their families on a very moderate stipend. Assistance and advice have been given to the housewife whose daily allowance is less than one dollar, as well as luxurious suggestions and elaborate menus for the wealthy. Especial care has been taken in selecting recipes for soups, sauces, and little luxuries, on incomes somewhat less than a millionaire's. A depart- ment has been given to the uses of " The Chafing Dish," that useful adjunct to the lunch table, the small evening gathering, or the light housekeeping, so prevalent in city apartments. "Invalid Cookery," "Marketing," "Carving," "Bills of Fare," " Hygienic Cookery," and all departments of household economy, have received their due share of attention. The departments on " Salads, ' *' Fruit Salads," and " Left-Overs " of all descriptions are especially full. We are all greatly dependent upon the state of our digestion. Napoleon could not rise superior to an illv-cooked dinner. Hence his Waterloo. The History of the French Revolution rose an 1 f -11 witli the state of Carlyle's dys- pepsia, and many a tracir episode in family life is superinduced by the baleful influence of a tortured stomach. Misfhty is the hand that holds the ballot- box, but mightier is the hand that wields to advantage the pepper-box, the salt-sppon, and the sugar-shaker Wi^e i •. the brfiin that decides upon the fitness or the unfitness of the laws that govern our land, but mightier is the 5 6 INTRODUCTION. power behind the throne ; the brain that decides upon the quantity and the quality of the food that goes to feed the strength of the law- makers. To these housekeepers, these home-builders, it is that such books as this are dedicated, and among these it is that they find their welcome. Not sought in the home where there is no cook book, for there their value is un- known ; but in the home where there are many such guides it is that each new arrival comes as a herald of something better and more helpful in the realm of cookery. And meet it is that all possible help be given to those Avho feed our bodies, for thereby they strengthen and uplift our souls also. Says Haryct Holt Gaboon : "Ask a woman what cooking means. It means the patience of Job, and the persistence of the Pilgrim Fathers. It means the endurance, the long-suffering, and the martyrdom of Joan of Arc. It means the steaming, and the stewing, and the baking, and the broiling, thrice daily, springs, summers, autumns, and winters, year afttr year, de- cade following decade. It means perspiration, and desperation, and resig- nation. It means a crown and a harp, and a clear title to an estate in hea- ven. From her judgment and reason the cook must evolve triumphs that depend upon salt and pepper, and sugar and herbs. She must know how soon and how long, and how much and how often. She must know quality and quantity and cost. She must serve the butcher, and the baker, and the candlestick-maker. Then she must rise above it all and be a lady — a loaf- giver." Ruskin says : " Cookery means the knowledge of Medea, and of Circe, and of Calypso, and of Helen, and of Rebekah, and of the Queen of Sheba. It means the knowledge of all herbs and fruits, and balms and spices, and of all that is healing and sweet in fields and groves, and savory in meats. It means carefulness and inventiveness, and watchfulness and willingness, and readiness of appliance. It means the economy of your great-grand- mothers and the science of modern chemists; it means much tasting and no wasting ; it means English thoroughness, and French art. and Arabian hospitality ; and it means, in fine, that you are to be perfectly and always, • ladies.' ' loaf-givers.' " To be able to cope with difi'iculties, should the necessity arise, is the dntv of mc^t women. Nothing will enable them to do so more certainly than a thorough knowledge of the ^^'^^/.'m/ princi])les and methods and the carrying out of these in the preparation of the homeliest meal. CONTENTS Page BEEF 172 BILLS OF FARE 583 Biscurr 304 BLANC MANGE 417 BUNS 307 BREAD 294 CAKES 364 CANDIES 541 CANNED FRUITS 479 CARVING 17 CATSUP AND SPICED FRUITS 322 CHAFING DISH COOKERY 333 CHEESE DISHES 344 CHICKEN 135 CLAMS 92 COOKIES 398 COOKING FOR INVALIDS 554 CORN CAKES 312 CRABS 97 CRACKERS .... 318 CREAMS AND CHARLOTTES 419 crooup:ttes 26I CRULLERS 395 CUSTARDS 415 DESSERTS 424 DOUGHNUTS 395 DUCKS 146 DUMPLINGS 338 EGGS 218 ENTREES 349 FISH 103 FRITTERS 268 FROGS' LEGS 155 FRUIT SALADS 440 GAME 149 GEESE 144 GEMS 308 GINGERBREADS 401 GRIDDLE CAKES 314 7 8 CONTENTS. Page HARE 154 HASHES, COLD MEATS, ETC 204 ICES AND ICE CREAM 507 JELLIES 465 KIDNEYS 184 LOBSTERS 86 MEATS 161 MUFFINS 309 MUTTON 190 OYSTERS 68 PARTRIDGES 155 PICKLES 492 PIES AND PASTRY 353 PIGEONS 156 POISONS AND ANTIDOTES 574 PORK 195 PRAIRIE CHICKEN 159 PRESERVES AND JA^IS 442 PUDDINGS 405 QUAIL 157 RABBITS 152 REMEDIAL FOODS 582 ROLLS 305 RUSKS 307 SALADS 277 SALLY LUNN 31-2 SAUCES AND GRAVIES 319 SCALLOPS . . 100 SCIENTIFIC HYGIENIC COOKERY 575 SHORTCAKE . . 341 SOUPS, HOW PREPARED 31 SQUIRRELS I''i4 TABLE DRINKS 524 TERRAPIN 101 TOASTS 330 TRIPE 1^2 TURKEY l-''0 TURTLE 1^'^ VEAL ^^'^ VEGETABLES : • • ^^^ VENISON '•''' WAFFLES ^^^ WOODCOCK 1^^ To WE intense heat. Carving is really an art, and should be cul- tivated as one, for much of the success of a good dinner depends upon it, but whether the bad carving so often met with is really due, as is sometimes said, to stupidity, awkwardness, or laziness, is an open question. Practice has much to do with it, and a good knife much more. The carving- knife should be very sharp, and kept for this use alone. A fine steel knife should never come in contact with Table carving-knives should never be used around the kitchen range, or for cutting bread, meats, or vegetables. The dish upon which the meat or fowl is served should be of sufficient size to allow room for the carved slices before serving. If this is not the case, another dish should be provided for their reception. When carving, a chair should be used slightly higher than the ordinary dining-chair, as this gives a better purchase for using the carving-knife and fork, and is more graceful than standing, which is often resorted to. Skill is the chief requisite of carving, not strength. The platter containing the meat should be placed opposite, and sufficiently near the carver to give perfect command over the article to be carved. Cut the meat in thin slices, laying them on one side of the platter, then afterward place the desired amount on each guest's plate, to be passed in turn by the servant. Gravies or sauces should be sent to the table very hot. Plates also should be thoroughly heated, as otherwise the eatables will soon get cold and the dinner will be spoiled. When serving gravies, be careful to place it by the side of and not over the meat. Then the guest can use much, or little, as preferred. It is not possible to carve meat in anyway without the gravy escaping, but avoid hacking and chopping, which results in a dish full of gravy. In serving any fowl or meat that is accompanied by stuffing or dressing, guests should be asked if a portion is desired, as there are some to whom the flavor is disagreeable. Do not heap plates too full, and keep each article separate, thus insuring a good appearance. 2 17 18 HOW TO CARVE. marks at c. more general slices should Sirloin of Beef. — A sirloin should be cut with one good, firm stroke, from end to end of the joint, at the upper portion, making the cut very clean and even. Then disengage it from the bone by a horizontal cut exactly to the bone, using the tip of the knife. Every slice should be clean and even, and the sirloin should cut fairly to the very end. Many persons cut the under side whilst hot, not reck- oning it so good cold ; but this is a matter of taste, and so is the mode of carving it. The best way is first of all to remove the fat b, which chops up well to make puddings, if not eaten at table. Then the under part can be cut, as al- ready described, from end to end, or downwards, as shown by the The latter is the method, and the be rather thick ; those from the top should be thin. If only the fillet is eaten while hot, c Sirloin of Beef. the top of the joint should be glazed, and the dish garnished with fresh parsley and scraped horse- radish ; it will then furnish a most appetizing cold dish. Ribs of Beef. — To carve ribs of beef, a sharp knife is necessary, and if it is run along between the meat and the bones, the carving will be more cleanly and quickly done. The slices should be thin, and cut from A to B, as shown in the illus- tration. Unless this is well- carved, it is a wasteful joint, and it is more economical to cut the end off to a greater extent than is usually done, or it becomes dry and over- done by the time the thick Ribs of Beef part is cooked. This can be boiled fresh, or may be salted sepa- rately, or with another lean piece of meat, and if the two are cooked and eaten together a very good dish for breakfast may be had at little cost and trouble. If, however, the butcher is rec^uested, HOW TO CARVE. 19 Ox Tongue. he will cut the rib short before sending it home, but a trifle more per pound must be paid for it if the thin end is not taken. {Sei: dot- ted line in the illustration. It indicates the portion which may advantageously be removed.) Ox Tongue. — The illustration shows an ox tongue as generally served, garnished plainly with a paper frill, some parsley or water- cress, and some scraped horse-radish, but the latter may be dispensed with. Perhaps the most common way of carving is to make a cut near the centre of the tongue, carrying the knife only about three- fourths down, and then taking slices from both sides until the root and tip are reached. This is wasteful — the fat left on the dish becomes discol- ored by the time the tongue is con- sumed ; and a more economical way is to cut the tongue right down through the middle, then take slices thinly from both sides. As has been already said, superfluous fat should be cut off before it is dished ; then the probability is that not more than will be eaten is left on. When the meal is over, the two parts should be pushed together, to prevent dryness. Any fat which may be left, so long as it is sweet, will come in useful for mixing with lean beef, or other meat for potting. Breast of Veal. — This rightly consists of two parts, the best end, and the brisket end; it may be bought whole, or in parts; the brisket end being a little cheaper. In carving it much depends upon the method of jointing adopted by the butcher. If the ribs have been broken across, long slices may be cut as shown in the diagram from A to B ; or the rib can be cut right through from c to d, then divided at the broken bone A B. If the rib bones have not been broken, the ribs have to be served whole ; the pieces are then somewhat awkward-looking on the plate. The gristly portion may be cut as shown in h h, and in a well-cooked breast this is very inviting and tender. 20 now TO CARVE. Neck of Veal. — The best end of a neck of veal makes a very good roasting piece ; it, however, is quite difficult to carve, unless it is done properly. To attempt to carve each chop and serve it, would cause you to place too large a piece upon the plate of a person you intend to serve. The correct way, therefore, to carve this roast is to cut diagonally from figure 1 to 2, and help in slices Neck of Veal. of moderate thickness; then it maybe cut from 3 to 4, in order to separate the small bones. Fillet of Veal. — A sharp knife is required ; it should be thin, and drawn lightly across the meat, without too much pressure. It should follow the line A, b, c, d, and when once the meat has become flat at the top, it can be kept even by exercising a little care. A portion of stuffing should be given with each help, and as some usually falls into the dish at starting this should be kept in reserve for the time when there is less ; that is, when the lower part of the joint is reached. The Fillet of Veal. outside brown slice is by many considered the best, and the honored guest should be asked if he prefers it. Fillet of veal has a tendency to crumble, therefore an ordinary knife, especially if blunt, will not answer in carving it. Knuckle of Veal. — This is often boiled, and is delicate, though rather insipid, unless flavor is imparted by the addition of vegetables. The usual time for cooking is not long enough for this, owing to its gelatinous nature. When boiled, long, slow cooking, and careful skimming are important. A stewed knuckle is excellent. A roasted knuckle is not to be recommended, unless the fleshy portion only is cooked, the knuckle-bone being used for stock, for which it is very useful, and should be used while quite fresh. The illustration shows the method of carving, which is very simple, Knuckle of Veal. " We can live without books, we can Live without wining, But where is the man who can Live without diningr " y HOW TO CARVE. 21 slices being cut from a to b. The thick part is the best ; the fat is very dehcious ; but by some the tendons about the knuckle are preferred. Calf's Head. — To carve the head, commence with long slices, shown by the dotted lines a to b. With each of these, serve a cut of what is called the throat sweetbread ; this lies at the fleshy part of the neck end. Cut also some slices from c to d ; they are very gelatinous and delicate ; a small portion should be served to each person. The tongue and brains are, as a rule, put upon a separate dish ; thin slices of the tongue should be given to each, together with a spoonful of the brains. The flesh round the eye is considered the tit-bit by some people, and deep in the sockets are other choice bits. To remove these, make a circular cut in the part marked e. First put the knife in slanting at F, inserting the point at the dotted e line, and driving it into the centre ^5s^'~^^^^3 under the eye ; then turn the hand ^^.^-a--,-- -^ - s\i round, keeping the circle of the / W^^^f^v—i^^^^y^^-}----- dotted line with the blade of the ( |^^^--"---------"--'-----^^^^^^^ knife, the point still in the centre. The eye will come out entire, cone- shaped at the under part, when the circle is completed by the knife. ^^^^'^ ^^^^• The lower jaw must next be removed, beginning at g; and to do this properly the dish must be turned. The palate is also considered a dainty, and a little of it should always be offered to each guest. Some people find it easier to carve a calf's head if divided, and each half laid flat on a dish. Haunch of Mutton. — Unless this joint has been well hung it will be tough and insipid. A haunch of good mutton, in fine, clear, frosty weather, may be kept a month ; but in damp weather it will require much attention on the part of the cook to keep it from getting tainted in half the time. The great point is to keep it dry, by dusting it first with flour, which should be rubbed off several times with a dry cloth, and again renewed. When to be cooked, skin the loin, and wipe dry ; then cover with white paper, or make a common paste of flour-and-water for the joint. Put it on the spit, or hang before a 22 HOW ro CARVE. good, even, vigorous fire for the first half hour, basting it constantly with good meat-dripping. When within half an hour of being done, take off the paper, and brown slightly. Dredge the haunch with flour, and baste copiously with butter, but first pour the dripping from the pan ; sprinkle with a little salt, and send it to table finely frothed. Make a gravy in the pan with what has dripped from the meat and a little boiling broth drawn from mutton trimmings ; salt and pepper. Time, from twelve to fifteen minutes per pound; well done, eighteen minutes. To carve this, make a cut from a to b ; then take off the slices as shown from c to d. A frill put on the knuckle improves the appearance, and, if liked, the meat can be glazed. AnotJicr zvay. — After taking off the skin and as much fat as may be neces- ^^ ^.^^ sary, the skin may be put back until , ^ ^^ the time for browning and frothing the ' M^/ / meat. If the mutton is lean, and it is ^ "lir % '// not thought necessary to take off any fat from the top, simply baste the meat, and cook it minus paper or paste ; Haunch of Mutton. u 4. •*. n *. n u r n but it will not generally be near so lull of flavor. If this method is followed, the basting must be almost incessant. Fore-quarter of Lamb. — To carve, separate the shoulder; see A A A in the diagram. This is then i. M transferred to another ]iot dish, some Q .- V" 4 <^ y lemon juice being squeezed over the ^..•- """^ / breast, the lemon first dipped in the /^l \ / \\ cayenne. Then separate the ribs '^^l ^'« \\ I and brisket, and cut the ribs through ; A'*-.\ J see c B. The guests should be asked -=»„j^ V^ if they prefer ribs or brisket. The shoulder may not be required at all while hot, the other parts being Fore-quarter of Lamb. ,, /- ^ i usually first chosen. AnotJier way. — Put slices of bacon over the thick part of the lamb, and brush the thin part with clarified butter before roasting. Ikfore dishing, take the bacon off and dredge with crumbs; let them brown well, then serve. HOW TO CARVE. 23 Saddle of Mutton. Saddle of Miuttou. — This is a very popular roast. A saddle of mutton, if hung in a cool airy place, will improve with keeping from one to three weeks, according lo the weather ; but as this part of the sheep is the most tender and delicate, it may, if liked, be roasted in from four to five days. If not for a large family, get the joint well trimmed ; the flaps, tail and chump end may be cut away, which will considerably lessen the weight, and be found more advantageous to the pur- chaser, even at a higher price per pound, or the flap will make a plain stew. In its entire state it is considered an expensive joint, consequently people of moderate means and family, unless so accommo- dated by the butcher, can seldom order it. All superfluous fat must, in any case, be removed, and the joint covered with a greased paper. Roast as directed for a loin of mutton. It should be a nice brown when done, but not too dark. About twenty minutes per pound will be required. Laver is a good accompaniment to roast mutton. Good gravy and hot jelly must not be omitted. The an- nexed diagram shows the mode of carving, which is quite simple, straight slices being cut from a to b. Relays of hot plates and gravy should be in readiness, and very little gravy should be put upon the dish. A hot-water dish, as used for venison, is the best to serve mutton on. Shoulder, Boned and Rolled. — In the diagram is shown a shoulder of mutton (lamb or veal) as it will appear when the bones (knuckle excepted) are removed. It may be stuffed, and then roasted, or cooked as desired. It is a nice-look- ing dish, and easy to carve. We wish, too, to call attention to the method of tying it, as well as to the joint itself, as it illustrates clearly the way of ^ binding anything of a similar kind, ^^ and can be more easily followed than any written description. Calf's head, ox cheek and galantine.s of all sorts should be tied thus with tape, not string. 24 HOW TO CARVE. Shoulder of Mutton. As to the boning, we can only repeat our advice to keep the knife close to the bone, and avoid piercing the outer flesh. The accom- pHshed boner nia}^ hke to bone the knuckle also, then draw the meat inside, and so give the joint a still more compact appearance. Slioulder, to Carve. — Simple as is the carving of this to the experienced hand, it is a joint which some find rather \z difficult to serve evenly and fairly. In the illustration cuts are made as shown from A to B. The joint will then open, and leave a triangular space ; slices must then be removed from A to B and c to b until the bone is reached ; then slices must be taken from the meat on the under-side, by turning the shoulder over, and cutting horizontally, like a round of beef LiOiu of Mutton. — This is generally served in chops, though not always, and must be carefully jointed, or the carver will have to turn the knife about until the place is found for the division of the bones ; this produces a raggy appearance. The kidney and kidney-fat are great delicacies, and a portion should be put upon each plate. If the loin is large, one chop may make two small helps, by putting the under-cut with the end, and serving the bone and upper part together. Tlie most economical way of serving this is to bone it, then roll and carve it like a fillet, which see. A saddle of mutton or double loin is two loins cut off before the carcass is split open down the back. French chops are a small rib chop, the end of the bone trimmed off and the meat and fat cut away from the thin end, leaving the round piece of meat attached to the larger end, which leaves the small rib-bone bare. Very tender and sweet. Mutton is /r/;;/^ when cut from a carcass which has been fed out-of-doors, and allowed to run upon the hillside ; they ar'j best when about three years old. The fat will then be abundant, white and hard, the flesh juicy and firm, and of a clear red color. ILeg of Mutton. — In carving a leg, turn the knuckle to the left, plant the fork firmly on the side of the joint, and begin by cutting across near the middle to the bone in the direction from 1 to 2, and slices may be taken from either side. HOW TO CARVE. 25 Some very good cuts are taken from the broad end from 5 to 6, md the fat on this ridge is very much Hked by many. The cramp- bone is a dehcacy, and is obtained by cutting down to the bone at 4, and running the knife under it in a semi- circular direction to 3. The nearer the knuckle the drier the meat, but the under-side contains the most finely grained meat, from which slices may be cut lengthwise. ^^^ of Mutton. Anotlier way. — A leg of mutton must be placed with the knuckle toward the left hand ; you then cut into the side farthest from you toward the bone, b to c, helping thin slices from the right and thick .;lices toward the knuckle. The little tuft of fat near the thick end is a delicacy and must be divided among your guests. The ordinary method consists in cutting straight across, like a leg of pork. The slice containing the kernel, and piece of fat called the Pope's eye, is considered the best. To carve this haunch-fashion the slices must be cut parallel with the bone. A nice leg of mutton, hung — as long as consistent with weather, ^®^ ^^ Mutton, and served with really good gravy, currant jelly, well-cooked vegetables and hot plates, will, if carved thus, compare very favorably with the more aristocratic haunch. More than one writer asserts that if carved out of sight of the guests, not more than one in twenty would know the one from the other. Whether this be true or not, the experiment is certainly worth a trial, particularly as the cost is not increased. Sucking- Pig-. — A sucking pig is usually sent to table in two halves, back to back on the dish ; a part of the head, and one ear, being placed at each end. The carver separates the shoulder, then the leg, from each half. These joints are cut in the ordinary way, and the ribs are cut straight down. As in carving generally, the various tastes of those present should be ascertained ; for while the pig is altogether very delicious, most people have a decided prefer- ence for some particular part of it. ^e HOW TO CARVE. Ham. The shoulders are often left untouched. They are excellent when re-heated by grilling or broiling. They may be whole or cut up. In either case, season them, dip into melted butter, then into fine crumbs. If whole, see that it is heated through without becoming too brown ; frequent turning, and a sj)rinkling of butter now and then are necessary. Serve any sharp sauce with this dish. Htiiii. — This is carved easily, and requires no great skill. The slices should be cut thin, from 1 to 2 and from 4 to 5, as shown in the accom- panying diagram. Haunch of Venison. — To carve this is not a very difficult task. In carving a haunch of venison, first cut it across down to the bone in the line, a b ; then turn the dish with the knuckle furthest from you, put in the point of the knife, and cut down as deep as you can in the direction shown by the dotted lines, a to c ; you may take out as many slices as you please on the right and left. The knife should slope in making the first cut, and then the whole of the gravy will be received in the well. It is held by genuine epicures that some parts of the haunch are better flavored than others, but it is doubtful whether ordinary palates will detect any difference. Slices of veni- son should not be cut thick, J, g, and plenty of gravy should be jS^ given with them. The fat is very apt to get cool soon, and become hard and disagreeable to the palate. For this reason, very quick carving is absolutely necessary for this joint. The long slices contain most fat at the loin end. The outside knots of brown fat are much esteemed by most people. It should be remem- bered in carving, that to please one's guests in the matter of serving the various parts of a joint, is as much the duty of the carver as it is to cut the meat to the best advantage ; and this may be done without disfiguring the joint, by the exercise of forethought in requesting those present to express their preference. Haunch of Venison. HOW TO CARVE. 27 Hare, Roasted. — Insert the point of the knife under the shoul- der, and cut from that down to the rump, along the sides of the back- bone. The slices should be moderately thick. Another way of carving hare is to remove the shoulders and legs, and cut the back crosswise into four or five pieces. This, however, can only be done when the hare is very young, or when it has been boned. To sepa- rate the leg, put the knife between the leg and the back, and give it a little turn inwards at the joint, which you must try to hit and not to break by force. The shoulders must be taken off by cutting in a circular line round them. These last are known as the sportsman's pieces ; some prefer them, but sometimes they are thought little of, and are served only when the other por- tions of the hare are exhausted. after that come the thighs. head. Roast Hare. The most delicate part is the back ; When every one is helped, take off the The upper and lower jaw should be divided by inserting the knife between them ; this will enable you to lay the upper part of the head conveniently on the dish. That being done, cut it in two. The ears and brains are highly prized by connoisseurs. With each slice of hare some of the stuffing should be served, and some of the gravy should accompany it. A bit of bacon must be put on each plate, and a forcemeat ball sent to table with it. Fowl, Roasted. — Insert the knife between the leg and the body, and cut to the bone; then turn the leg back with the fork, and, if the bird is not old, the joint will give way. The wing is next to be broken off, and this is done in the direction of A to B, only dividing the joint with =^ the knife. The forequarters having ^ been removed in this way, take off the merry-thought at d, and the neck- Roast Fowl, bones ; these last are to be removed by putting the knife in at c, and pressing it, when they will break off from the part that sticks to the breast. Next separate the breast from the body of the fowl, by cutting 28 HOW TO CARVE. through the tender ribs close to the breast, quite down to the tail. Turn the fowl now back upwards; put the knife into the bone mid- way between the neck and the rump, and on raising the lower end it will separate readily. Turn the rump from you, and take off very neatly the two side bones, which completes the operation. The breast and wings are considered the best parts of a roast fowl, being very tender, but in young birds the legs are the most juicy. In the case of a capon or large fowl, slices may be cut off the breast, just as is done when carving a turkey. Give part of the liver with each wing, and some stuffing to all, unless objected to. Fowl, Boiled. — This is cut up in a similar manner to roast fowl. Care should be taken to cut plenty of the breast meat off with the wings; the knife should be drawn, and much downward pressure avoided, as the flesh is apt to crumble. Sometimes the legs are taken off before the wings. A very large fowl should be served like a turkey, which sec. If little sausages be put about the dish, serve one with each portion of fowl. Partridg-es. — The method depends upon the quantity of birds at the disposal of the carver, and the nature of the meal. If there is enough, and the birds are small, they should be cut right through, and half a bird given to each, supposing the occasion to be a bachelors' supper or a game dinner. When the party is a large one, and small helpings only are possible, carve like a fowl, but give some breast meat with each portion, the breast being so highly and deservedly esteemed. Grouse. — If there be ample for all, a grouse may be cut in halves by putting the point of the knife downwards, near the leg end of the breast, and splitting the breastbone in two along the keel, and cutting through the back. If small portions only are to be served, carve like a fowl, or take some slices from the breast, cutting well up to the wing, then take off the leg and wing. Try to serve a portion of the back with each piece, the back part being so much esteemed by all lovers of game. Turkey. — A turkey having been relieved from strings and skewers used in trussing, should be placed on the table with the neck at the carver's right hand. An expert carver places the fork in the turkey, and does not remove it until the whole is divided. First insert the fork firmly in the lower part of the breast just forward of fig. 2, then " Better is a dinner of herbs where love is, than a stalled ox and hatred therewith." HOW TO CARVE. 29 sever the legs and wings on both sides, cutting through the joint next to the body, letting these parts lie on the platter. Next, cut downward from the breast, from 2 to 3, as many even slices of the white meat as may be desired, plac- ing the pieces neatly on one side of the platter. Now unjoint the legs and wings at the middle joint. Make an opening into the cavity of the turkey for dipping out the inside Turkey, dressing, by cutting a piece from the rear part 1,1, called the apron. Consult the tastes of the guests as to which part is preferred; if no choice is expressed, serve a portion of both light and dark meat. One of the most delicate parts of the turkey are two little muscles lying in dish-like cavities on each side of the back, a little behind the leg attachments; the next most delicate meat fills the cavities in the neck-bone, and, next to this, that on the second joints. The lower part of the leg (or drumstick, as it is called) is rarely ever helped to any one, being hard and tough. Duck. — In carving a duck, due regard must be had to its size and condition; a large, fat duck may be cut up like a goose, viz., in thin slices from the breast, then the wings are removed ; the carver should, however, leave part of the side of the breast attached to each wing. Next the legs are cut off, then the neck-bone. The breast- bone is separated by cutting through the sides, and the back-bone is divided in two by cutting downwards. But in the case of a poor, skinny duck, to attempt to cut slices from the breast is to betray its condition; then the wings should come off at .starting. With each helping .some stuffing should be served, the skin being first cut across between the legs, that it may be taken out with a spoon. Goose, Roasted. — Begin by turning the neck end of the goose towards you, and cutting the whole breast in long slices from one wing to another. {See the lines a, b.) To take off the leg, insert the fork in the small end of the bone, pressing it to the body. Put the knife in at a, turn the leg back, and if the bird be young, it will easily come away; if old, we will not answer for it. To take off the wing, insert the fork in the small end of the pinion, and press it close to the body; put the knife in at b, and divide the joint. When the 30 HOW TO CARVE. leg and wing are off one side, attack those on the other ; but, except when the company is very large, it is seldom necessary to cut up the whole goose. The back and lower side bones, as well as the two side bones by the wing, may be cut off; but the best pieces of a goose are the breast, and the thighs after being separated from the drumstick. Serve a little of the seasoning from the inside, by making a circular slice in the apron at c. Should there be no stuffing, a glass of port or Roast Goose. claret may be poured into the body of the goose, at the opening made in the apron by the carver. The unpleasantness arising from eating sage and onion stuffing used for roast goose may be in a great measure prevented by putting in the centre of the stuffing, before the bird is cooked, a lemon with the yellow rind taken off, and as much of the thick white skin left on as possible. Before the goose is sent to the table, the flap should be opened and the lemon taken out and at once thrown away. The lemon will have absorbed a great part of the impurities, which other- wise would have remained in the stuffing. Care should be taken not to cut the lemon so that the juice could escape. Pigeons, Trussed. — Pigeons need to be very carefully plucked and cleaned, and they should, if ■ ~^' ~~ possible, be drawn as soon as they are killed. To truss for roasting : — Cut off the head and neck, cut ]Z= off the toes at the first joint, and wash the birds well. Dry them carefully, truss the wings over the " --__^^^^^-'^=¥>£--j;^^f- V-J" back, and pass a skewer through "~ ^^--^---^-^s^— ^-=^" ^j^g v^^ings and body. The gizzard Pigeons, Trussed. ^^^ ^^ cleaned, and put under one of the wings. To truss for boiling: — Cut off the legs at the first joint, put the legs into the body, and skewer the pinions back. To carve a pigeon, cut through the breast and back-bone; or make three portions of one bird, by taking the leg and wing from each side, the breast making a third serving, not to be despised if plump. Soup-Stock. — Soup-stock in reality forms the basis of all soups and of the principal meat sauces and gravies. This consonune (clear soup) is made of the cheaper portions of fresh meat, together with the bones and trim- mings of roasts, which should always be sent home meat market. The bones should be cracked and it addition to the strength and thickness of the soup. Where they are used in abundance the stock will become a jelly when cold. The flesh of an old animal has more flavor than that of a young one ; and brown meats contain more than white. Mutton is almost too strong in flavor to be used alone for stock, and veal, while having much of the glutinous quality, furnishes little nutriment. Veal alone is useful in making the colorless stock needed as a foundation for the more elaborate soups. Calves' feet added to it will give an added consistency, without heightening the color. Where color is not an objection, the addition of remnants of roast meats to the stock-pot gives richness to the flavor. How Prepared. Stock is prepared by extracting the juices from meat by slow boiling. It is kept on hand, and by adding varied ingredients almost any variety of soup can be made. The cheaper portions of meat are used. The shin bone is generally chosen, but the neck contains more substance, and makes a stronger, more nutritious soup, than any other portion of the animal. Allow one quart of cold water to one pound of meat and bone. Put the meat over the fire in a covered kettle, and allow it to simmer slowly for four or five hours, in order that the essence of the meat may be drawn out thoroughly. Skim carefully from time to time, and never let it boil rapidly. If more water is needed, supply it with boiling water from the tea-kettle. If the meat is cut in pieces and the bones cracked, the juices will be more thoroughly extracted. Never salt it until the meat is tender, as that hardens and toughens it, especially if the meat is to be eaten. 32 SOUPS. Add a little salt and pepper and strain through a sieve or napkin into a stone jar. The fat will rise in a cake to the top, when it can be removed. One nice way is to pour the stock into several small bowls. Then leave the cake of fat over the top of each one until needed for use. In this way the stock is kept fresher. Never use tin or iron vessels to put away soup stock, and a porcelain-lined kettle with a closely-fitting lid is preferable for all soups. More than one variety of meat adds to the flavor of the stock broth and should be used whenever practicable. Fats removed from the stock can be clarified for use by melting over the fire until all the water is extracted, when it may be poured into a jar for use. Stock like this can be kept many days in cold weather. To make soup of it, take out a portion of the clear jelly in the stock jar, add water, and whatever additional ingredients may be desired, such as barley, rice, macaroni or vegetables, as may be desired. Cook and thicken as desired. It is best to partly cook vegetables before adding the stock, a.s much boiling injures the flavor. Season to taste, boil a few moments and serve hot. Soup Stock. — II. Five pounds of beef, skin, or neck, or other cheap piece, or the same amount of knuckle of veal, or half beef and half veal. Add to this any bones, trimmings of poultry, or fresh meats, a quarter of a pound of lean ham, 2 onions (stick several cloves in the onions), 1 turnip, 3 carrots, 1 head of celery, 2 tablespoons full of salt, 1 bunch of savory herbs (except sage), and 6 quarts of cold water. Simmer it gently for five or six hours. Skim carefully. Strain into a jar. When cold, remove the fat. This stock will keep for many days in cold weather. Salt and pepper it slightly. This cannot be made in a hurry. This stock is the basis for soups, and makes an excellent gravy for hash and meats. Add to this stock, vegetables, etc., as in the first recipe for soup stock. Always guard against having too much fat in the soup. Assuming care in the first stage, the uhimate success of a soup is certain if the seasonings are judiciously added. Soup Tvween. SOUPS. 33 Economical Soup Stock. The economical housekeeper will learn to utilize whatever trim- mings are left in the refrigerator. Cooked or uncooked meat, left- over portions and bones of roasted fowls, bits of vegetables, portions of grains, such as barley, wheat, oatmeal, left from the breakfast, out- side stalks of celery, etc., etc. The tough ends of porter-house steaks, cooked or uncooked, and all the bones and ends of roasts and chops. Put these in the stock kettle, cover with water in the proportion of 1 pint to 1 pound of meat, this being the proportion for cooked meat. Let simmer four or five hours. Then the liquor should be strained off, the meat seasoned with salt and then allowed to stand and harden so that the grease may come to the surface. A quart of soup will serve a family of six. If a plain macaroni soup is to be made, a quart of stock will be required, but for tomato soup only half that quantity is necessary. Vegetables should be added to stock only to give it flavor, and in summer the stock will keep longer if they are omitted. Wliite Stock must be made of veal, calves' feet, and chicken. Veal alone will answer. Proceed as in the first-given stock recipe. If soup is to be used the second day, do not leave it in the kettle to cool, but turn it into stone jar or china bowl. Do not cover it, as that causes it to sour, and before re-heating, remove the cake of fat that will rise to the top. This, if heated in, would injure the flavor. Soup Hints. — Thickened soups require more salt than a clear consomme. When soup is made of fresh meat, the meat may be served cold in the form of pressed beef (see recipes), force meat balls, hash, etc. If soup is over-salted, a teaspoonful of vinegar and an equal amount of sugar will help to counteract the taste. When soup stock is at a discount because of the large amount of meat used, put up a supply for warm weather emergency dinners by sealing in air-tight glass fruit jars when it is boiling hot. Soup Thickening-. — A thickened soup should be about the con- sistency of cream, and a clear soup should be perfectly transparent. Flour, corn-starch, ground rice may be used for soup thickening. These maybe rubbed smooth, to about the consistency of cream, with 3 34 SOUPS. cold milk, cream or water. Again, the yolks of eggs beaten up with water and milk may be used, instead. 1. The thickening never should be added to the soup until it is just about to be served. 2. The thickening material should be mixed in a bowl, and there should be added to it very slowly about a cupful of hot soup, stirring all the time. Some cooks pour this into a sauce- pan and cook for about three minutes on the side of the range, stir- ring continually, and then add to the soup. The soup must never be allowed to boil after the thickening has been added, and should not stand more than a very few minutes before serving. Scarcely anything is more unpalatable than lukewarm soup. Puree Soups. — The term puree is applied to all vegetables cooked soft and pressed through a sieve. Sometimes these are served simply as vegetables, sometimes as sauces to meats, but most often they are diluted with broth, milk or water, and made into soups. The puree soup is one of the principal nourishing soups. It may be made also of fish, cooking the fish a long time and then straining it in the same manner as the vegetables. The general plan of preparing these soups is the same. Coloring for Soup and Gravies. Caramel. — Put into a saucepan a cup of sugar and a quarter of a cup of water. Let them boil until the syrup begins to change color; watch carefully. Tilt the saucepan on all sides that it may brown equally. When it is all nearly black, before it chars in the least, add a cup of boiling water. Let it boil until all is dissolved and like very dark syrup. Bottle for use. A teaspoonful or less of this gives a fine color to soup or gravy. It will also color icing for cake, and is always useful. This makes a brown soup. Spinach leaves, pounded in a mortar and the juice expressed and added to soups, will give a green color. Red is obtained by using red-skinned tomatoes, from which the skin and seed have been strained out. A fine amber color is obtained by adding finely-grated carrot to the clear stock when it is quite free from scum. Black beans make an excellent brown soup ; the same color can be gotten by adding burnt sugar or browned flour to clear stock. Only white vegetables should be used in white soups, like chicken. SOUPS. 35 To make a cream soup yellow and rich the yolks of eggs are used. The eggs are first beaten thoroughly, and after the cream or milk has been added to the soup, they are stirred in just before it is taken from the fire. Clarifyiug- Soup. — Soup may be still farther clarified by beating up the white of 1 egg with a little water for each quart of soup. Boil slowly together. The egg and the sediment will rise, and may be skimmed from the top, leaving the soup perfectly clear. Flavorings for Soup. Celery Viueg-ar. — Soak 1 ounce of celery seed in a pint of vine- gar, bottle and put aside for flavoring soups and gravies. Bouquet of Herbs. — A spray of parsley, a sprig of thyme, 1 of savory, a sage leaf and a bay leaf tied together make what is known as a herb " bouquet." It will flavor a gallon of soup if cooked in it for an hour. When less stuff is to be flavored, less cooking of the bouquet is required. The sage can be omitted whenever desired. Herb Spirit. — Equal parts of thyme, sweet marjoram, summer savory, parsley and celery seed, gathered in their prime. F'ill a wide- mouthed bottle loosely with the fresh leaves, fill with good vinegar, and cork closely. After a few days pour off the vinegar into another bottle and cork. This will be found very convenient for flavoring soups. Dried Soup Herbs. — The coarse stalks of celery, sprigs of pars- ley and other soup herbs may be put to a good use by washing, drying and powdering fine and bottling, to be used later for season- ing purposes. A small bunch of fresh parsley, or 2 tablepoonfuls of the dried, is sufficient for 1 gallon of soup. To have fresh parsley all winter, put a box in the kitchen window and plant the seed. It can be grown all winter, and is not only nice seasoning for soups, but is a pretty garnish for meat and fish. Rolled Oatmeal is a very nice addition to soups, taking the place of rice or pearl barley. Catsups of various kinds are a nice addition to the flavoring of soups, but they are to be added at the table to suit the tastes of each. Curry Powder. — 1 ounce each of ginger, mustard and pepper; 3 ounces each of coriander seed and turmeric ; ^ ounce each of cin- namon, cardamom and cummin seed ; ^ ounce cayenne pepper. Have 36 SOUPS. all well powdered, mix, and keep in a tightly-corked bottle. A little of this will greatly improve some stews, soups and gravies. Curry Balls. — These are for mock turtle soup, veal or poultry fricassee, or any made dishes that require garnishing. Mash the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs and mix to a pulp with 1 heaping table- spoonful of good butter; season with curry powder and a little salt, and add as much bread crumbs as may be required to make it of the proper consistency ; wet your hands with cold water and make little balls out of the mass, making them any size your fancy dictates ; drop them in the soup or sauce, as the case may be, and cover the saucepan while it boils. When the balls rise in the pot they are ready to serve, and will be found as light as a feather. Egg- Balls (or Quenelles). — Boil 4 eggs until hard. Drop them in cold water, and when cool remove the yolks and mash them to a paste. Season with a little salt and pepper and mix the paste with the white of 1 raw egg. Form the paste into balls the size of a hazel nut, roll them in flour and fry to a light brown in hot butter and drop into the soup just before taking up. Egrg- Balls. — II. Yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, tablespoonful of hot mashed potatoes, cayenne and salt to taste, the yolk of one raw egg. Rub all together. Flour the hands. Put in the soup before taking from the fire. Croutons (or Fried Crusts). — Cut bread in slices | inch thick, remove the crust, butter the bread and cut in cubes J inch square, brown in oven, or fry in a little butter. Put them in the soup tureen and pour the soup over, or serve in a separate dish. Force-meat Balls. — Season 1 cup of any finely-chopped cooked meat with salt, pepper, 1 teaspoonful of lemon juice, 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley and 2 or 3 drops of onion juice. Moisten the meat with the yolk of an egg, roll in small balls, flour and fry in butter, or poach in salted boiling water. Put in soup just before serving, or use to garnish meats or fish. When fried they make a nice side dish. Force-meat Balls. — II. Chop any kind of cold meat, add a little butter, half as much fine bread crumbs, 1 raw egg, a pinch of summer savory or parsley. Season with pepper and salt, mix, form into balls, fry brown in hot fat. Put in the soup before serving, or use as above. One of the balls is better tested before all are made up. SOUPS. 37 Eg-g- Dumplings. — One cup of flour, 1 egg, 4 tablespoonfuls of water. Mix the egg and water, add a pinch of salt and stir in the salt, making a stiff dough. Roll thin, cut with a cake cutter, drop into either gravy or soup. Keep the kettle covered and boil ten minutes. Dumpling-s for Soup. — One-half pint of sweet milk, add ^ teaspoon of salt ; sift 2 teaspoons of baking powder with 1 quart of flour; stir enough into the milk to make as stiff as soft biscuit dough; do not mould, but when the soup boils well, dip the batter in spoon- fuls and keep boiling about 20 minutes ; very light and nice. Dunipling-s for Soup. — II. One pint of milk ; 2 eggs well-beaten, a pinch of salt, flour enough to make a batter that will drop from a spoon into the soup. Cook 10 minutes; remove to dish, dot with butter and serve with the meat. They can be cooked in boiling water and served with cold meat. Potato Dumpliug-s. — Sprinkle 2 or 3 potatoes with a little salt and plenty of flour; mash well, then drop in small bits in the boiling soup. Noodles. — One egg and a pinch of salt. Work in all the flour that this will take up. Roll thin as possible, and dry, then roll up and slice off in narrow strips. Drop in boiling soup and let boil fifteen minutes and serve. Chicken with noodles is good (see recipe). Soup Served Cold. — Make good, rich beef soup in the usual manner; let it cool and free it from fat. If it has formed a jelly, simply melt it over the stove without allowing it to get heated, and pour into bouillon cups half filled with cracked ice. Seasoned nicely, and eaten with wafers, this is simply delicious, and, with a salad of lettuce and wholesome Graham bread, is as healthful and good a lunch as one can take in August. It is also a nice soup course for dinner. Beef Soups. Bouillon. — Four pounds beef, chopped fine ; 4 quarts co/d water. Put the beef on in cold water and let it take at least an hour to come to a boil. Cook very slowly, simmering at the side of the stove and never boiling hard. Keep this up four or five hours until this water is reduced to about 2 quarts. Let the meat get cold in the liquor. All this should be done the day before it is to be used. Next day remove the grease and strain the liquor through a thick cloth, squeez- 38 SOUPS. ing every drop of moisture from the shreds of beef. Put the Hquor on the stove, bring to a boil and stir in the white and shell of an egg. Boil about 2 minutes and strain the soup once more. The result will be a clear amber-colored fluid. If de- sired, this may be darkened by the ad- dition of a little caramel. Of course the bouillon may be made weaker, but these directions will, if fol- lowed exactly, produce most satisfac- tory results. Two quarts will prove enough for sixteen or eighteen medium- sized tea cups, or for twenty after-dinner coffee cups. In summer it is sometimes iced. This, with fancy sandwiches, is often served at an afternoon tea. To make quickly : Take 1 can of extract of beef. Mix with 3 quarts of boiling water and season to taste. Beef Soup. — Six pounds of lean beef (shank answers very well), have the bones well cracked and the marrow put in the soup with 6 quarts of water; put the beef bones and all into a close vessel with the water and let it heat gradually. Let it simmer six hours at least, only uncovering it once in a while to see if there is danger of the water getting too low; should this be the case replenish with boiling water. Set away until next morning. About an hour before dinner, take out the beef, which you can use for mince-meat; remove the cake of fat from the stock, set the soup on the fire and put in a little salt to bring up the scum ; when this has been skimmed off put in your vegetables, 2 carrots, 3 turnips, 1 pint of green or canned corn, 1 head of celery, 1 quart of tomatoes; these should be prepared for the soup by boiling them in barely enough water to cover them until they break to pieces, then put them with the water in which they were cooked into the soup, return the pot to the fire, and boil one- half hour; season to taste with salt and pepper. For a family soup many prefer to leave in the vegetables. Beef Soup. — II. Break the bone of a moderate-sized shin of beef; cover with 5 or 6 quarts of cold water and add 1 tablespoonful of salt ; remove the scum and cover closely ; let it simmer slowly and SOUPS. 39 steadily for 5 or 6 hours ; take out the beef, and set the stock to cool after straining it ; skim well the next day ; add 1 carrot, 2 small onions, 2 small turnips, cut in pieces, ^ pint of tomatoes, a sprig of parsley, a celery top, 1 small red pepper, spices to taste, and for the thickening 1 tablespoon of butter and browned flour, rubbed to- gether; place in the tureen 2 hard-boiled eggs, mashed smooth, and turn in the soup after straining. This soup can be made and strained and served the same day. All or part of the vegetables may be used. Cabbage Beef Soup. — Three or five pounds neck or coarser parts of beef chopped into small pieces. Put to boil in 5 quarts of cold water. When it simmers, skim ; boil slowly for four or five hours. Take out the meat and add 1 cup each of chopped turnips and cabbage and half a cup each of chopped carrots and onions, also 1 cup of rice, boil till the rice is cooked. Cabbage may be used alone and the other vegetables left out if desired. Noodle Soup. — Put a soup-bone in a kettle half-full of water (any other cheap cut of meat will do). Peel and slice 2 small potatoes, 1 turnip, 1 onion, and add to the soup. Fifteen minutes before serving put in the noodles and let them cook. French Beef Soup (Pot-au-feu). — Cut into small pieces and remove all the fat from S^ pounds of the cross rib or shoulder of beef Take a large knuckle bone that has been well-broken and put it and the beef in a soup-kettle and cover with cold water, using 5 quarts at least. Heat slowly, watching it, and as soon as it is boiling skim carefully. When it has been thoroughly skimmed add 1 bay leaf, 1 red pepper or 1 dozen black pepper-corns, 1 can of tomatoes and 2 onions, chopped. Simmer slowly from three to four hours. Strain and serve clear. Color it, if wished, with a couple tcaspoonfuls of caramel. Turnips, carrots, and a little chopped celery can be added if desired. The vegetables can be left in, and the soup not strained for family use. If thickening is desired, wet up a tablespoonful of flour in a little cold water, and stir in about five minutes before serving. Puree of Turnips al' Espag-nol. — Pare, wash and quarter 3 medium-sized turnips for each quart of veal broth ; to this allow a gill of well-washed rice, an ounce of butter, salt, white pepper and a lump of white sugar; simmer gently an hour; rub through a fine sieve ; return to the fire till scalding hot, and pour into the soup tureen over dice of fried bread. 40 SOUPS. Family Soup. — Time, 6 hours ; 3 or 4 quarts of the hquor id which mutton or salt beef has been boiled. Any bones from dressed meat, trimmings of poultry, scraps of meat or 1 pound gravy beef, 2 large onions, 1 turnip, 2 carrots, a little celery seed tied in a piece of muslin, bunch savory herbs, 1 sprig parsley, 5 cloves, 2 blades mace, a few pepper-corns, pepper and salt to taste. Put all your meat trimmings, meat bones, etc., into stew-pan. Stick onions with cloves, add them with other vegetables to meat; pour over all the pot liquor; set over slow fire and let simmer gently, removing all scum as it rises. Strain through fine hair sieve. Marrow Diiinpling- Soup. — Remove the marrow from a beef-leg soup-bone. Put the bone and meat on to boil in 3 quarts of cold water, with a sprig of parsley and a large onion, chopped fine; bring to a boil slowly and cook several hours : half an hour before serving time strain, put back over fire and season with salt and pepper. When briskly boiling put in dumplings made as follows : Grate 4 large slices of stale bread ; add the marrow, 2 eggs, a little nutmeg, salt and pepper, I tablespoonful of flour; make into little dumplings the size of a hickory-nut, and drop into the boiling soup. Boil fifteen minutes, then serve. Riple Soup. — For four persons take an egg, and into this, with the floured palms of the hands, rub as much flour as the egg will hold. Keep on rubbing in flour until the dough falls from the palms in tiny little flakes or ripples. These must be dropped into the boiling soup broth, flavored with salt, and left on the stove until they rise to the surface. This makes a thick and delicious soup. Glace Soup. — Take one-half loaf stale wheat bread, soak in water. Put a large tablespoon butter on griddle ; when hot put in the well- dried bread, season with salt, pepper, a little chopped parsley and juice of 1 onion. Dry well and then put in a bowl, and break in 2 eggs and mix well. Use one-half of this mixture for the balls ; roll in hand and make the size of marbles ; make a clear beef soup, and when it boils drop them in and boil two minutes. Serve at once. Dressing;- /or Veal — Use other half of mixture left from soup balls. Beef Gumbo. — To make an excellent soup with gumbo and meat, cut up a pound of lean beef, and put it with one-quarter of a pound of butter — a good grade of butterine will do quite as well — and 1 onion, sliced, with pepper and salt, in a soup kettle, and stir it SOUPS. 41 over the fire until it is all very brown, then add 4 quarts of cold water, and boil gently one hour, after which put in 2 cupfuls of chopped okra, and simmer all for nearly four hours longer. The mucilaginous matter contained in the okra will serve to thicken the soup without the addition of flour or other like substance. Vsal Soups. Mock Turtle Soup. — The old Virginian rule for mock turtle soup can hardly be excelled, and, though troublesome, quite deserves to lead off the Christmas dinner. To make it, soak a calf's head, well cleaned, an hour in cold water and put on the fire in 5 quarts of cold water, boiling till the meat slips easily from the bones. Take out the head, leaving all loose bones in the pot, and remove the tongue and brains, putting them on separate plates to cool. Lay the face meat smoothly on a plate, that it may cut easily into dice when cold. Chop the rest of the meat very fine and reserve a cupfi;1 for force- meat balls. Season the rest with 1 tablespoon- ful of mace, 3 of salt, 1 of pepper, and return to the pot, simmering all for four hours and not allowing the broth to be less than 4 quarts. Two hours before it is done add two minced onions, fried brown in butter, and a bunch of & w . sweet herbs. Make force-meat balls by seasoning the cupful of meat very highly, half a teaspoonful of salt, a pinch of cayenne and a salt- spoonful of allspice and of mace ; work in 2 raw eggs and make the mixture into about 18 small balls. Flour them well and set in a hot oven till a crust has formed. Cut the tongue and face meat into dice and put into the tureen with the balls. Melt 4 spoonfuls of butter in a saucepan, and when it boils add 4 of sifted flour, stirring till brown and adding the boiling soup till it can be easily poured into the soup pot. It should make the soup like thick cream. The soup should have first been strained and returned to the pot before the thickening is added. Add 2 glasses of sherry, a tablespoonful of mushroom or walnut catsup, and a lemon sliced thin, and serve at once. Slices of hard boiled egg are sometimes added. It is equally good the second day. Plain Mock Turtle Soup, — Use a knuckle of veal, or 4 calf's feet, and 1 pound of veal ; put into the soup kettle with 3 quarts of 42 SOUPS. cold water; simmer slowly, until the meat falls off the bones. When nearly done, add one-half teaspoonful powdered thyme or sweet marjoram, one-quarter teaspoonful mace, one-half teaspoonful ground cloves and salt. Brown 1 tablespoonful of flour in the same quantity of butter, stir well into the soup and strain. The next morning remove the fat thoroughly and warm gradually, and add yoke of hard-boiled egg. To this may be added force-meat balls, mushrooms, or thin slices of lemon. Consomme with Eg-g- Diimpliiig-s. — Boil 2 shanks of veal in 4 quarts of water, add vegetables, season to taste with sweet herbs. When done, strain through a napkin. Color, if desired, with a teaspoonful of caramel, or, it can be turned into a jar and cooled, when the fat will rise to the top. This can be removed in a cake, and the soup can be poured off with- out disturbing the sediment. Boil egg dump- Alphabet Cutters, jj^^^^ j^^ ^^^ g^^p J 5 minutes before the soup is served (see recipe). The veal shanks may be made into veal loaf, or veal cheese. Veal Sovip, Plain. — A knuckle of leg of veal. Boil it with two- thirds of a cup of rice. Season with pepper and salt, and a little parsley or celery. Before the soup is seasoned, take out the veal. Force-meat balls or egg dumplings may be added. Thicken with a little flour rubbed smooth in milk or water. Turn it over slices of toast in the tureen. Tapioca Veal Soup. — Make the soup as for plain veal soup. Skim carefully, season. Soak | cup of pearl tapioca in a cup of milk. When the soup is nearly done, remove the meat, skim off every particle of fat and stir in the tapioca until it dissolves in the hot soup. Simmer half an hour, add a little celery essence and serve. Bonne Femme Soup. — Heat 1 quart chicken or veal stock. Boil 1 pint good milk. Beat up the yolks of 2 eggs, add to them the boiling milk, and stir this into the soup quickly; do not let boil. Season with pepper and salt. Serve with croutons or small triangles of toast. Brown Veal Soup. — Take the liquor in which a calf's head has been boiled, thicken with browned flour, season with salt and spice to taste. Add 1 hard-boiled egg cut in pieces and 1 sliced lemon. SOUPS. 43 Mutton Soups, Scotch Mutton Broth. — Time, three and a half hours ; 6 lbs. neck of mutton, 3 quarts water, 5 carrots, 5 turnips, 2 onions, 4 tablespoon- fuls Scotch barley, a little salt. Soak mutton in water for an hour, cut off scrag, and put it in stew-pan with 3 quarts of water. As soon as it boils skim well and then simmer for one and a half hours. Cut best end of mutton into cutlets, dividing it with 2 bones in each; take off nearly all fat before putting into broth; skim the moment meat boils, and frequently afterwards; add carrots, turnips and onions, all cut into 2 or 3 pieces, then put them into soup soon enough to be thoroughly done; stir in Scotch barley; add salt to taste, let all stew together for three and a half hours; about half an a hour before sending it to table, put in little chopped parsley and serve. Mutton Turnip Soup. — Leg of mutton and 5 quarts of water. Cover close and boil two hours. Skim. Put in 1 onion, a dozen small white turnips, quartered, a little thyme finely minced. Boil two hours longer. Take out the joint, strain the soup, return it to the fire, add a cup of milk in which has been stirred a tablespoonful of flour and 1 of butter. Season with salt and pepper, boil up once, stirring all the time. Pepper Pot. — To 4 quarts of water put 1 pound of corned pork, 1 pound of neck or scrag of mutton and a small knuckle of veal. Let this simmer slowly for three hours, skimming all the while, and then take out the mutton, which will serve as a special dish for the table with celery sauce. Into the broth put 4 sliced white turnips, 6 tomatoes or a tablespoonful of tomato ketchup, an onion in thin slices, a little pepper and salt to taste. Add to this a ^ lb. of tripe in 1 inch strips, 6 potatoes thinly sliced and a dozen whole cloves. Simmer for an hour. Ten minutes before serving add dumplings no bigger than a marble. Serve hot, removing the pork and veal bone before serving. Mutton Soup with Cheese Dumplings. — Make a stock from 5 cents' worth of soup mutton, a piece from the neck is best, form drop balls with ^ cupful of flour, | cupful of milk, 1 tablespoonful of butter, 1 of grated cheese, and 1 egg. Mix evenly, set in another basin filled with hot water, and cook about five minutes, stirring con- stantly; then set away to cool. When cold, roll into little balls about 44 SOUPS. the size of hickory nuts. Drop into boihng water and cook gently five minutes, but be careful they do not break. Put in the soup tureen and pour boiling stock over them. A plate of finely grated cheese may be passed with the soup. Lamb Broth. — Take 3 to 4 pounds of lamb, put into 3 quarts of cold water, and let it simmer one hour ; be sure to skim when it first boils up; add f cup of rice and let it boil three hours till the meat is tender; stir occasionally. If the water boils away or it is too thick, add hot water; salt to taste, peel and slice 4 potatoes; add to broth half an hour before serving; very nice. If one likes it, add a little sweet marjoram or poultry seasoning. Mutton Broth. — Cut 2 lbs. of lean mutton into squares, remov- ing every particle of fat. Cover with 1 quart of cold water, let it come to the boil, and simmer slowly two hours. Twenty minutes before it is taken up, add 1 tablespoon of well-washed rice. Put in salt and pepper to taste. Add vegetables if liked, or dumplings. Chicken Soups. Chicken Soup. — Cut up the fowl and put it in a stew pan with 4 quarts of water (cold), stew until there are but 3 quarts left. Take out the chicken; season the liquor and add a small cupful of rice. Cook rice tender. If you like, add a cup of milk and 1 or 2 beaten eggs just before serving. Stew, not boil, the chicken. Chicken Veg-etahle Soup. — Wash a fat hen. Stuff it if desired, truss it so it will be presentable on the table, put it into a porcelain kettle with 4 quarts of water, boil 2 hours ; slice 3 or 4 Irish pota- toes ; 1 large onion ; 1 or 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley ; 1 tea- spoonful celery-seed, and a bit of summer savory, if you have it; ^ red pepper-pod, salt to taste. When the soup has boiled one hour add the vegetables, and when nearly done put in a pint of sweet milk. Chicken Corn Soup. — Cut up one large fowl and boil until ten- der in 4 quarts of water. Remove the chicken and save 1 cupful of the broth. Add the kernels from 1 dozen ears of corn,, or 1 can of corn to the soup and stew one hour longer. Season with pepper, salt, and parsley or celery. Thicken with 1 tablespoonful of flour rubbed smooth in 1 cup of milk. Let boil up and serve. Veal may be substituted for chicken in making this soup. Take the chicken and serve it with the following gravy : To the SOUPS. 45 cup of chicken broth add 1 beaten egg; let it boil up and pour over the chicken. Mullag-atawny Soup. — Cut in small pieces the breast of a young chicken after it has cooked in soup stock. Put on the fire the carcass and bones of the chicken, add enough soup stock to cover it, simmer for one hour and strain. Fry 2 small onions in 1 ounce of butter; add f of an ounce of flour ; stir well ; pour the broth in the butter and onions; boil up; add 1 tablespoonful of diluted curry powder, I a cup of milk, pepper and salt. Simmer 10 minutes. Put the chicken meat in the soup tureen, 2 tablespoonfuls of boiled rice, pour over the soup stock and serve. Some epicures insist upon rabbit for this soup. If used, proceed in the same fashion. Giblet Soup. — Wash 2 sets of giblets. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan, and set over the fire. Have cut up 1 onion, 1 carrot and 1 stalk of celery ; when the butter is hot, put these in and fry brown. Skim them out and put them in a soup-kettle with ^ a gallon of water, the giblets, a pound of lean beef and a sprig of parsley. Set over a moderate fire, and let simmer until the giblets are tender; skim until clear. Rub 3 tablespoonfuls of flour and 1 of butter together, and stir into the soup. Take out the giblets, cut into pieces, and put them into the soup-tureen with the yolks of 6 hard- boiled eggs. Strain the soup, season with salt and pepper, and pour into the tureen. Cliickeu or Turkey Soup. — Take the bones and body of the fowl, after the meat has nearly all been taken off, and put it with 3 pints of water to boil ; let it cook slowly for two hours ; by this time all the meat should leave the bones; if the water has boiled away, add more ; remove the bones ; there should be considerable meat in the broth ; to this add 8 good-sized potatoes and 4 or 5 onions, 2 carrots, 2 small turnips, and salt and pepper to taste ; twenty minutes before serving add dumplings. Try this for supper some cold night, and you will agree with me that it is excellent. If there is any of the dressing left, add half a cupful to soup. Turkey Soup. — Take the turkey bones and cook for one hour in water enough to cover them, then stir in a little of the dressing and a beaten egg. A little chopped celery improves it. Take from the fire, and when the water has ceased boiling add a little butter, with pepper and salt. 46 SOUPS. Gumbo Soup. — The canned okra can be used for this, or dried okra soaked over night, either making an excellent soup. Slice 3 red onions fine, and fry brown in a tablespoonful of butter; add to this I of a pound of ham cut in dice and fry one minute, | a cup of washed rice, 1 can of tomatoes and the okra, and a cupful of beef stock, with a teaspoonful of salt and | a saltspoonful of cayenne. Cover and stew very slowly for not less than four hours. It must be stirred often, to prevent burning, as okra is very sticky. This makes a very thick soup. If preferred thinner, add more broth, but in the South it is eaten thick. To this gumbo oysters are often added, fifty being used and put into a pan with a spoonful of melted butter till very slightly browned. Gumbo Soup. — ^11. To a quart can of tomatoes add a gallon of water and set to boil several hours before the soup will be needed. Have ready a skillet with lard or unsalted butter that has come to the bubbling point. Into this drop either 1 small or ^ of a large chicken that has been jointed and cut up for frying, 1 onion, and a dozen pods of okra cut into slices lengthwise. Salt and pepper to taste. When this mixture is fried to a delicate brown, transfer the entire contents of the skillet to the vessel containing the tomatoes, and let the combination boil down to a thick consistency. To those with a peppery palate a green pepper or a red one cut up into the boiling mass commends itself. This same preparation may be made with shrimps instead of chicken. Always the result is an extremely rich and heavy soup. Gumbo should always be served with rice, not that glutinous mass which so often offends the eye and insults the grain on hotel tables, but rice cooked in South Carolina style, which is simply rice in perfection. Gumbos occupy the medium ground between soups and stews. Chicken Gumbo. — Cut up the chicken meat or game to make the soup. Fry in butter to a light brown with 1 onion cut fine ; add boiling water in proportion to the meat. 2 pounds of meat or chicken and | pound of ham will take 4 quarts of water. This, boiled down, will make sufficient for six persons. Let the gumbo simmer for two hours. Slice about 1 pint of green okra pods, brown them in the same pan after the chicken is put in soup, and add at once. Add a tablespoonful of flour to the fat in the pan ; stir until it browns; thin with | a cup of the liquor and stir it into the soup. SOUPS. 47 Oysters are an improvement. Scald their liquor, pour into the soup, and let boil fifteen minutes. Add the oysters in time enough for them to boil up once or twice. Gumbo Filee. — Make as above, save in the absence of okra 1 tablespoon of th^Jilee is added. This is a preparation of dried sas- safras leaves with a small quantity of pulverized bay leaves. Grunibo Soup, with Crabs. — Mince an onion and fry it in butter with an equal quantity of small dice of raw ham ; cover with a quart of white broth and add half of a minced green pepper, half a dozen sliced okras, 2 tablespoonfuls of rice, and 2 tomatoes cut in dice; season ; cook for half an hour, simmering slowly, and add the meat from 2 boiled crabs or 3 soft-shelled crabs cut small. Meat Vegetable Soups. Veg-etable Soup. — Two or three pounds of lean beef and salt pork mixed, 1 small head of cabbage, 1 turnip, 1 large onion, 1 small beet ; boil separately from the meat. When the other vegetables are beginning to get done, add 2 or 3 potatoes. When all are done well, chop fine, chop the meat, put together and season. Suuiiuer Vegetable Soup. — To prepare this soup take 2 pounds of the neck of beef, a quart of sliced tomatoes, a quart of corn sliced from the cob, 3 pints of water, 1 tablespoonful of butter, 1 of flour, and salt and pepper to suit taste. Put the meat and water into a soup-pot, and as soon as the liquor begins to boil, skim it carefully. Simmer for three hours, then add the tomato and corn cobs. Cook for half an hour, then strain into another kettle and add the corn, the flour and butter mixed together and enough salt and pepper to sea- son well. Cook forty minutes longer, then serve. Julieune Soup. — Cut ^ pint of carrots, ^ pint turnips, ]^ pint onions, 2 beets and y^ head of celery into small dice. Fry carrots in 1 ounce of butter, and pour over them 2 quarts of boiling stock, then add the other vegetables and ^ pint peas ; stew all gently for an hour. Economical Souii. — Take a cold roast-beef bone, pieces of beef- steak, the remnants of a cold turkey or chicken. Put them into a pot with 3 or 4 quarts of water, 2 carrots, 3 turnips, 1 onion, a few cloves, pepper and salt. Boil the whole gently four hours, then strain it through a colander, mashing the vegetables so that they will 48 SOUPS. pass through. Skim off the fat and return the soup to the pot. Mix 1 tablespoonful of flour with 2 of water, stir it into the soup and boil the whole ten minutes. Serve with bits of dry toast cut into a trian- gular form. Puree of Cauliflower, or Cauliflower Cream Soup. — One quart of soup-stock, 1 pint of milk, 1 pint of cooked cauliflower, 1 table- spoonful of minced onion, salt, white pepper or Cayenne, 1 table- spoonful of minced parsley. Cold cauliflower can be used. If cooked for the purpose pick in small branches and boil in salted water until done. Boil the minced onion in the soup-stock. Mash the cauli- flower and add, together with the milk which should be boiling hot. Season. Thicken, if necessary, with a little flour until the consist- ency of thin cream. Add a lump of butter and the minced parsley. A puree is a thick, creamy soup where the ingredients are mashed fine, and the soup not strained. Ham Bone Soup. — Boil the ham-bone (it should have some meat left on it), in fresh water for about five minutes. Pour off this first water and cover the bone with fresh water. Cook it gently and sea- son to taste. Cut up potatoes fine and add to the soup. Just before serving pour in 1 cup of milk, thicken with a little flour. Before putting in the milk all fat should be skimmed from the soup. Other vegetables may be added if wished. If corn beef is not too salt, soup may be made in the same manner from the water in which it has been boiled. One ^^^ may be beaten and stirred stiff" with flour, and the mixture dropped by bits into the soup, and will be found an improvement. Bean Porridge. — Take 4 or 5 pounds of the cheaper portions of beef in a large kettle, cover with cold water. Let come to a boil, skimming at intervals. Soak 1 quart of beans over night. Put these over in cold water to which one-half teaspoonful of soda has been added. Let boil until they begin to soften. Then skim from the soda-water into the boiling soup. When nearly done mix ^ pint of corn meal, smooth with cold water and stir in, adding 2 red pepper pods and salt to taste. Put croutons, or small squares of toast, in the tureen, and turn the soup over them. This dish improves with age. Supply the loss by cooking with boiling water from the tea-kettle. When done it should be the consistency of ordinary bean soup. Bean and Corn Soup. — One pound of lean beef, cut in small SOUPS. 49 pieces, j^ pound of salt pork, 1 quart of dried white beans soaked over night, 1 onion shced, 1 teaspoonful of celery salt, 1 of pepper and 2 of salt, a little parsley, 1 tablespoonful of sugar, 1 can of corn, or the same amount of green corn cut from the ear, 5 quarts of water. Put everything together but the corn, and boil slowly 2 hours, or until the beans are soft. Half-an-hour before serving, stew the corn slowly in a separate sauce-pan, adding a teaspoonful of butter and a little salt. Strain the soup through a colander, rubbing the beans to a pulp. Put over the fire again and add the corn. Boil altogether a minute, and serve with toasted crackers. If wanted for a substantial meal, this soup may be made without straining. Bean aud Tomato Soup. — Make the bean soup after the above recipe, substituting in place of the corn a can of tomatoes, or the same amount of fresh tomatoes. Half an hour before serving put the tomatoes over the fire, season and stew to a pulp, rub through a col- ander and add to the soup. Put croutons, or small squares of toast, in the tureen and pour the soup over them. Black Beau Soup. — Take ordinary soup stock. Soak IJ cups of black beans all night, cook them soft in the same water and press through a sieve; chop the yolk of a hard-boiled egg into the tureen. Add the beans to the hot stock, season and pour into tureen. White beans can be made into soup in the same way. Bean Soup. — Take the bones and scraps of meat left from steaks and chops, boil with a pint of navy beans until the beans are tender; season to taste, and just before serving add a cup of milk ; let it boil up. Spanish Bean Soup. — Soak 1 quart of beans over night, boil them the next morning till tender, add 1 small white cabbage, which has been cut up fine, a bit of bacon, a whole red pepper and some salt; boil the whole for an hour. Heat some lard or drippings in a sauce- pan and fry in it a sliced onion ; put in the soup little by little ; stir often with a wooden spoon. This is a perfect representative of the favorite soup kept for all travelers in Spanish climes. Bean Porritlg-e. — Boil 6 pounds of fresh or corned beef; have about 6 quarts of liquor; parboil 1 quart of kidney beans; rinse and boil in the liquor until done; when nearly done add Ih quarts of hulled corn ; thicken with corn meal, to which a little flour has been added ; season with pepper and salt to taste. Baked Bean Soup. — Put them over the fire with an onion stuck 4 50 SOUPS. with three cloves and a quart of water ; boil half an hour, press through a sieve, return to the fire, dilute to the proper consistency with milk or water; stir in some bits of butter rolled in flour, and serve in pretty cups. Bean Soup with Croutons. (In French, puree de haricots aiix croutons.) — A puree is any kind of mashed vegetables. One-quarter of a pint white beans, 1 onion; butter, the size of an Q^Z) ^ teaspoon of salt; a pinch of pepper. Pick, wash the beans and put them over the fire with 1 quart of cold water. Cover the beans and let them boil from 3 to 3J hours. Then press them through the colander until nothing but their skins are left. Put the puree back in the saucepan over the fire, with the water in which the beans have cooked. If the water has evaporated during the cooking, add enough boihng water to make the soup of right consistency. Next add the salt, pepper and onions, which have been previously minced fine. Boil slowly for half an hour. Put the butter in the soup tureen and pour the soup on it, and serve with fried croutons. Bean Soup without Meat. — Soak quart white beans over niglit ; in morning pour off water; add fresh and set over fire until skins will easily slip off; throw them into cold water, rub well and skins will rise to top, where they may be removed. Boil beans until perfectly soft, allowing 2 quarts of water to 1 quart beans ; mash beans, add flour and butter, rub together, also salt and pepper. Cut cold bread into small pieces, toast and drop on soup when you serve. Macaroni or Vermicelli Soup. — Two small carrots, 4 onions, 2 turnips, 2 cloves, 1 tablespoonful salt; pepper to taste. Royal herbs — marjoram, parsley and thyme. Any cooked or uncooked meat. Put soup bones in enough water to cover; when they boil, skim, add the vegetables. Simmer 3 or 4 hours, strain through colander and put back in saucepan to reheat. Boil half pound macaroni until quite tender, place in soup tureen and pour soup over it — the last thing. Vermicelli will only need to be soaked a short time — not boiled. Split Pea Soup. — Take 2 quarts of cold water, 1 cup of peas, 3 onions (if you like them), cut in slices, I pound of raw beef, cut up; salt ^^^^k and pepper to taste ; boil 3 hours ; take out the I^ 'JFv^ beef and run the soup through a sieve ; mash SOUPS. 51 it all through ; add a pint of milk and serve very hot with toasted bread or crackers. Pea Soup. — One pint of peas soaked over night ; boil in 4 quarts of good beef stock, with an onion, turnip and carrot, if desired ; stir frequently, that it may not burn ; serve with toasted bread cut in small pieces. Dried Green Pea Soup. — One pint of dried peas, 2 onions, 1 turnip, 1 carrot, some outside leaves of celery, 1 teaspoon of salt, one- half teaspoon of pepper; soak the peas for 12 hours, put them on to boil in 2 quarts of cold rain water; wash and cut up the vegetables, and when the water boils add them to the peas, also the salt and pepper, and let all boil slowly for 3 hours ; stir often ; after that time pour through a sieve, rub all through that is possible, put back into saucepan to get quite hot ; serve with crisp toast cut into dices. Piquant Pea Soup. — One pint of green dried peas — or fresh ones. If dried, scald in a solution of saleratus water, blanch them thoroughly and cook gently in 2 quarts of water until tender and soft. Pass them through a sieve. Chop 2 onions and fry in 2 tablespoons of butter, add 6 cloves and 1 bay leaf and then stir all together. Put in a tablespoonful of salt and a cup of either canned or whole tomatoes. Let the whole cook very slowly for an hour, when, if it seems too thick, add a little boiling water and let it cook a little longer. Then add a pinch of red pepper and a tablespoonful of butter, and just before serving a cupful of squares of bread which have been fried brown in butter until of a pretty golden hue. Green Pea Soup without Meat. — Turn a can of peas into a large saucepan and cover them with hot water. Add a small onion sliced and let them boil until the peas are soft. Mash them and add a pint of water. Melt 2 tablespoonfuls of butter and stir into it 1 spoonful of flour. Stir until smooth and add to the cooked peas 2 cupfuls of rich milk. Season with salt and a little cayenne pepper. Let the soup boil up once after the milk is added ; then rub through a coarse sieve and serve with tiny squares of fried bread. Green Pea Puree. — Steam 1 pint of fresh or canned green peas in 1 pint of hot water until they are perfectly soft ; rub through a sieve, add salt, pepper and other condiments to suit taste. Boil and then add a gill of cream, and then boil again, and serve with fried bread or toast. 52 SOUPS. Macaroni Soup (Veal). — Three pounds of a joint of veal, well broken up ; put in 4 quarts of water and set it to boil ; prepare ^ of a pound of macaroni by boiling it by itself, with sufficient water to cover it ; add a little butter to the macaroni when it is tender ; strain the soup and season to taste with salt and pepper, then add the macaroni in the water in which it is boiled. The addition of 1 pint of rich milk or cream and celery flavor is relished by many. Vermicelli Soup. — Boil a shin of veal in 4 quarts of water. Skim it very carefully, then put in 1 onion, 1 carrot and a turnip, not cut up, and boil 3 hours. Add salt, 2 cups of vermicelli and boil an hour and a half longer. Remove the bone and vegetables and it is ready to serve. Ox-Tail Soup. — Wash 2 ox tails and cut them into pieces, sepa- rating them at the joints. Put 2 tablespoonfuls of butter into a fry- ing pan, and when it becomes hot put in the pieces of ox-tail and an onion cut in slices and fry them to a light brown. Put the browned meat in a soup kettle, with 3 quarts of cold water, 1 bay leaf, 1 car- rot, sliced, a stick of celery, 4 cloves, and 6 whole peppers. Let them cook slowly 3 hours. Pick out some of the pieces of ox-tail for the tureen. Season the soup with salt and strain and remove the grease. Then reheat and add the pieces of ox- tail and turn into the tureen. Soup Neapolitan. — Five cups of well-seasoned stock. Make a paste of 1 egg in flour, to which a pinch of salt has been added. Form into balls the size of a thimble, drop in the soup 10 minutes before serving, season with salt, pepper, a tablespoonful of Parmesan cheese and a little chopped parsley. Hasty Soup. — Chop some cold cooked meat fine, and put a pint into a stew pan with some gravy, season with pepper and salt, and a little butter if the gravy is not rich, add a little flour moistened with cold water, and 3 pints boiling water, boil moderately half an hour. Strain over some rice or nicely toasted bread, and serve. Uncooked meat may be used by using 1 quart of cold water to a pound of chopped meat, and letting it stand half an hour before boiling. Celery root may be grated in as seasoning, or a branch of parsley thrown in, p w w P o :^ H CO SOUPS. 53 Mock Oyster Soup. — Place on the stove a teacupful of shredded codfish in a quart of cold water. Let simmer half an hour, add a pint of stewed tomatoes and a very little saleratus. Boil 5 minutes, add a quart of sweet milk, a slice of butter, salt and pepper. When it reaches the boiling point serve with crackers. Rice Meat Soup. — Three ounces of rice, the yolks of two eggs, J pint of cream or new milk, 1 quart of stock. Boil the rice in the stock, and rub half of it through a sieve or tammy, put the stock in a stew pan, add the rest of the rice whole, and simmer for 5 minutes. Beat the yolks and mix with the cream or milk, boiled. Take the soup off the fire, and add the cream and eggs. Heat to boiling point. Rice Meat Soup. — II. Three pints of veal or chicken or beef broth will be needed as a basis for this excellent soup. Wash ^ cupful of rice and put it on with the broth to cook. Put 3 tablespoonfuls of butter into a pan, and put into it when hot 3 tablespoonfuls each of chopped carrot, celery and onion. Let them cook slowly 20 min- utes, then remove the vegetables to the soup ; stir 2 tablespoonfuls flour into the butter left from the vegetables, add that to the soup with a bit of mace, 3 cloves, h teaspoon pepper and 3 teaspoonfuls salt. Let all simmer gently 2 hours. Strain soup, add a quart of rich milk heated in a double boiler, boil up once and serve. Game Soups. Puree of Game. — A very good game soup may be prepared from the remnants of game, even of different kinds. Boil the pieces, bones and all of the different birds for an hour or more in water, or better still, in weak broth or soup stock. Boil 3 or 4 turnips or heads of cauliflowers and rub or mash fine. Pound the meat fine and rub through a sieve to a powder, and return meat and cauliflower to the soup, together with 2 eggs beaten into ^ pint of milk. Let this reach the boiling point (but not boil), and serve hot. White Rabbit Soup. — Two rabbits, disjointed, 1 head celery, a little chopped parsley, a minced onion. Put these into 3 quarts of water, and boil gently until tender. Take out the best pieces of rabbit for a separate dish. Separate the rest of the meat from the bones, replace the bones in the kettle and boil an hour; strain the liquid in which they have boiled and let it cool. Rub the meat fine with the yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs, and a few bread or cracker crumbs ; put 54 SOUPS. through a sieve and add to the soup ; add salt and pepper to taste ; let it simmer 3 5 minutes, thickening with 2 teaspoonfuls of corn starch or rice flour. Brown Kabbit Soup. — Disjoint the rabbit, roll in flour and fry- brown in butter. Put this in a kettle and cover with 3 quarts of boiling water. Season with pepper, salt and parsley (add a minced onion if liked). Boil 3 hours. Thicken with browned flour and send to the table with fried crusts. Soup of Frog-s' Leg-s. — Take 2 dozen frogs' legs and pour over them lukewarm water, let them remain in it about 5 minutes, but not to cook, pour off the water and add equal quantities of milk and water sufiicient to cover, cook moderately about half an hour, simmer a small onion chopped, in butter, add it to the soup with 1 quart of rich milk, 2 tablespoonfuls of batter, a little salt and pepper, and a des- sertspoonful of chopped parsley; skim the legs from the soup, and remove the meat from the bones, put the meat into the tureen with a tablespoonful of thick cream and a little celery chopped very fine ; pour in the hot soup and serve at once. Game Soiip. — Two grouse or partridges, or if none of these are at hand, a pair of rabbits. Half a pound of lean ham, 2 small onions, 1 pound of lean beef, 2 stalks of celery cut in inch lengths, 3 quarts of water. Joint the game, cut the ham and onions into small pieces, and fry all except the celery in butter, until a light brown. Put in a stew- pan with the beef, cut into bits, and a little pepper and salt. Pour on the water, heat slowly and stew gently 2 hours. Take out the game and keep warm. Cook the soup an hour longer ; strain, return to the stew-pan and drop in the celery. Cook slowly 10 or 15 minutes longer. Pour upon fried bread in the tureen. Venison Soup. — 'Make the same as the above, with the addition of a tablespoonful of browned flour wet to a paste with cold water, adding a tablespoonful of catsup, Worcestershire, or other sauce, and, if wines are used in cookery, a glass of Madeira or Sherry wine. Squirrel Soup. — Wash and quarter three or four squirrels. Cover with 1 gallon cold water and 1 tablespoonful salt. Put over the fire right after breakfast. Cover the kettle closely and set on the back of the stove where it will simmer slowly all the morning. Add any kind of vegetables as in other meat soups, corn, Lima beans, potatoes, SOUPS. 55 etc. When the meat has boiled to shreds strain the whole through a coarse colander. Boil 10 minutes longer, thickening with butter rubbed in flour. Put croutons, or squares of toast in the tureen, and pour the soup over them. Good. Oyster Soup. — One quart of oysters, 1 quart of milk, ^ cup of butter, Yz cup of powdered crackers. When milk boils add butter, crackers and oyster liquor (which has been boiled and skimmed), then pepper and salt to taste, and finally the oysters. Cook three minutes longer and serve. May also season with celery salt, or a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce. For persons preferring the oysters without milk the same method may be followed, omitting the milk and substituting water in it place. The rolled crackers may be omitted also, if wished. Oyster Soup (Plain)." — One quart of oysters with their liquor, 2 quarts of cold water, 1 pint of milk, 1 heaping teaspoonful of salt. Let the whole boil together 2 minutes. Skim out the oysters, add Yz teacupful of butter, a little pepper and 1 small cupful rolled crack- ers. Let this boil up and pour over the oysters. If there is the slightest danger of the milk curdling, heat it separately, and do not add it until the water is boiling hot. Oyster Cream Soup (Ricli), — Six dozen oysters, 2 quarts of white soup-stock, 1 cupful of cream, 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, \\ tablespoonfuls of flour or cornstarch, salt and pepper to taste, celery- salt and white pepper best. Scald the oysters in their own liquor, skim them out, add the stock to the oyster liquor, first straining this carefully to remove bits of shell, etc. Simmer for half an hour. Add the seasoning and 1 blade of mace if the flavor is liked ; then the thickening of butter and flour rubbed smoothly together. Simmer 5 minutes. Have the cream boiling hot in a separate vessel, turn into the broth and pour at once over the oysters. Serve with sliced lemon and oyster crackers. (For stews and other oyster dishes, see Shell Fish.) Celery Oyster Soup. — Cut 3 heads of celery into small pieces, using both roots and stalks ; add a piece of onion as large as a hick- ory-nut and a sprig of parsley ; put into a saucepan with a pint of boiling water and boil half an hour ; put 1 quart of milk into a dou- ble boiler ; rub to a smooth paste a heaping tablespoonful of flour, and add to it, a little at a time, a Y^ cup of warm milk ; pour this 66 SOUPS. into the hot milk and stir until it is smooth and creamy; remove the parsley and rub the remaining contents with the water through the colander, and add this to the milk ; add a teaspoonful of salt and half a teaspoonful of pepper; as soon as it boils add 2 dozen nicely- washed oysters ; when it reaches the boiling point again remove from the fire and serve. Oyster Bouillon. — Chop 8 large, fresh oysters to a fine mince, and cover them in a small saucepan with a cup of cold water and their own liquor, first straining. Let it come slowly to the boiling point, and then keep it gently simmering for no more than five minutes, strain into a cup and serve very hot with toast cut in squares. If desired, after the liquor is strained, ^ cup of fresh milk can be added, the whole returned to the fire until it comes to a boil. Give a light sprinkle of white pepper into the cup, and add a pinch of salt. This is nice served in fancy cups in place of beef bouillon. Little Neck Clam Soup. — Put 1 quart of fresh milk in a double boiler with a small onion and a few thin slices of carrot. Heat to the boiling point, then remove the onion and carrot, add 1 heaping tablespoonful of cornstarch wet in a little cold milk, a heaping table- spoonful of butter, a dash of cayenne and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Chop 25 little-neck clams very fine and heat to a boiling point in their own liquor. Skim carefully. When ready to serve add the clams and liquor to the soup and serve at once. Clam Bouillon. — This now comes in cans ready for use, is en- riched by an addition of celery-salt and a mere squeeze of onion-juice, with a trifle thickened milk. Sprinkle a few fresh parsley sprigs on the top of each bouillon cup, and nobody will perceive the onion after you have left the table. It may also be made by simmering chopped clams in their own broth with an equal quantity of water, the broth strained through fine muslin and seasoned with pepper. If for an invalid, hot milk may be added when the broth is strained. Serve with toasted crackers. This is highly recom- mended, not only for invalids, but as a steady diet for those inclined to grow stout. Bisque of Clams. — Drain 25 clams, pouring 1 cupful of cold water over them. Put the liquor in a saucepan to boil ; skim, and when it boils up add the clams, first chopping very fine. Boil and skim again. Then add ^ a small cupful of rolled crackers and a table- SOUPS. 57 spoonful of butter rubbed smooth with 2 of flour. Let boil slowly for 15 minutes. Press through a sieve and return to the kettle. Heat to boiling point, and add to it 1 pint of cream, previously heated in a separate saucepan. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. Serve immediately; if allowed to stand over the fire the cream is apt to curdle. Bisque of Clams with Profiteroles. — Wash and chop 1 quart of clams. Put into a stewpan with ^ pint of white stock (or water) 1 slice onion, 2 blades celery, a tiny bit of mace, a bay leaf and a sprig of parsley. Cover; cook gently half an hour. In another saucepan have a pint of stock and a scant pint of stale bread crumbs. Let this cook very slowly 20 minutes. When the clams have cooked half an hour, strain the liquor from them into the pan with the bread crumbs. Stir and rub through a sieve. Return to the fire, add 3 tablespoons butter and 2 of flour rubbed together, 2 teaspoons salt, ^ teaspoon white pepper, 1 pint milk and 1 of cream (or 2 pints rich milk) heated to a boiling point. Let it boil up once, strain again and serve. With it pass the Profiteroles. — Into a saucepan put 2 tablespoonfuls butter and J cup boiling water. Put on the fire, and when it boils add f cup flour and beat well 2 minutes. Remove from fire, and when cool break into it 2 eggs. Beat for 10 minutes, add ^ teaspoonful salt, make into balls size of a pea, put them into a slightly buttered pan. Bake in a moderate oven 10 minutes. Lobster Soup. — Cut a lobster, weighing about 4 pounds, in small pieces. Place in a bowl 6 crackers, rolled fine, 1 cup of butter, salt, and a r^ery little cayenne pepper ; mix well together. Heat 3 pints of milk and 1 of water; stir in the mixture, boil 2 or 3 minutes, add the cut lobster, which should have previously been boiled for 5 minutes in the pint of water, and let the mixture boil up once. Use half this recipe for a small family. If canned lobster is used, it will not be necessary to boil it separately, but drain it well from the liquor in the can. Serve with toasted crackers. Some cooks add the pounded coral. This helps to give the pink color to the soup. The soup should be a pale pink and the thickness of good cream. Lobster Bisque. — 1 can of lobster and 2 cups of milk, 3 pints of boiling water, 1 tablespoonful of butter, \ cup of rolled crackers ; salt and pepper to taste. Chop the lobster rather coarse, drop it, 68 SOUPS. with the salt and pepper, in the water, put to boil and boil gently for 20 minutes. Then add butter and milk, boil again, add cracker crumbs and serve. Veal or chicken broth may be used instead of the water, making a delicious bisque. Bisque of Floiiudei's. — Soup may be made of any fish, or of the water in which fish has been boiled, with the bones, fins, heads and trimmings of the dressed fish. In either case, add onion, leek, parsley and celery while making the stock ; thicken as you would any cream soup, strain, pressing the fish flesh, if any, through a colander; add cream, butter, and if a rich bisque is desired, 2 beaten egg yolks for every quart of the soup. Oyster liquor is a nice addition, and 6 blanched oysters may be added to every quart. Fisli Cream Soup. — Season the water in which fresh fish has been boiled with pepper and salt, and keep until the next day. Heat 1 quart of the liquor, when wanted, to boiling, mince a cupful of cold fish and add to this. Let simmer 5 minutes and stir in 3 tablespoon- fuls of butter rolled in flour, and 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley. Add to this 1 cup of hot milk into which 1 cup of dried bread crumbs has been stirred. Stir well, let it boil up once, and serve with crackers. Cat-Fish Soup. — Skin, clean and cut in pieces. To ^ small cat- fish allow 1 slice of ham, cut in bits. Cover these with 2 quarts of water season with pepper and parsley (the ham supplies the salt), boil until the fish is tender, remove the backbones. Add to it a quart of boiling milk and 4 tablespoonfuls of butter cut in bits and rolled in flour. Stir in the beaten yolks of 4 eggs, boil quickly and serve while hot. The ham may be omitted, and the soup seasoned with salt. Other small fish may be cooked in the same manner. Instead of stirring in the beaten eggs, the yolks may be stirred stiff with all the flour they will take up, and this mixture may be dropped in bits into the soup. Green Turtle Soup. — This soup should be cooked the day be- fore it is wanted, so that every particle of fat may be removed. Chop up the coarse part of the turtle meat with all the bones, and put it on to boil with all kinds of soup vegetables, onions, pepper and salt. Skim it well and allow it to boil gently for 4 hours. It is well to add to this stock a veal bone. When all is boiled to a pulp, strain it and let SOUPS. 59 it stand over night. The next day take off the top every vestige of fat and put it on to boil. Cut up in small pieces the finer turtle meat and the green fat, pour it into the turtle stock and simmer gently for 2 hours. It is well to boil up the green fat in some water before putting it in the soup, so as to boil off all impurities. The turtle eggs must be boiled alone for 4 hours, placed in the soup tureen, and the hot soup poured over them. Before serving, take a large table- spoonful of good butter, melt it and brown 2 tablespoonfuls of flour in it, add it gently to the soup, as well as any sauces the larder may contain. There are so many different ways of flavoring green turtle soup ; some cooks add sweetbreads, others calves' brains ; some, force-meat balls ; but all agree that it requires mushroom catsup and Madeira wine. The wine must be poured in just before serving, because it loses all flavor if boiled. It is a heavy, rich soup, and difficult to digest, and most epicures insist upon a glass of cordial, or some tart wine, being served with it. If wines are never used, substitute lemon juice instead of Madeira wine in flavor- ing the soup. Green Turtle Soup a la Creole. — Here is the ancient Creole recipe for turtle soup, and it is safe to say that when once eaten after this delightful way no other will seem quite as savory. Cut the tur- tle in small pieces. Let it brown in a pot with a little lard. Cut up several onions, a slice of ham and a little garlic, and stir and mix well with the turtle. Then let the mixture brown well. Put in some flour and mix. Pour a quantity of soup stock into the pot. Let it boil and add a knee-joint of veal. Let this simmer for a full hour. Then put in some thyme, laurel leaf, parsley, shallots, and when everything is cooked add a thin slice of lemon chopped, boiled eggs and a little more parsley. Just before dishing add a wine glass full of Madeira or f that amount of lemon juice, and you will have a soup fit for a king's table. Vegetable Soups — Meatless. There are many times during the summer season, and also through Lent, when meatless soups are a desirable addition to the bill of fare. The following recipes will be a great help to the housekeeper in vary- ing the daily diet. Tomato Bisque. — Tomato bisque is a delicate and appetizing 60 SOUPS. summer soup. Stew and strain 1 quart of tomatoes, add a small tea- spoonful of salt and a little pepper. Boil 1 quart of milk. Smooth together 1 tablespoonful of flour with 1 of butter. Add this to the boiling milk, but do not put in the tomatoes until the dinner hour. Have the tureen hot. Turn in the boiling milk, add a small pinch of soda to the tomatoes. Pour them in, mix and serve at once. If canned tomatoes are to be used, take a quart can, open it and pour out in a bowl an hour before using. They should be cooked in granite or porcelain. (Tin or iron should never be used for acid fruits or vegetables.) Serve with baked crackers prepared as fol- lows: Butter and sprinkle with cayenne pepper; bake until light brown- Tomato Soup. — One quart of fresh tomatoes, or 1 can, 1 onion, 4 ounces of butter, tablespoon of flour, 2 spoons of salt, ^ of a spoon of cayenne pepper, J a pint of rich milk, 3 pints water ; boil tomatoes and onions | of an hour, add salt, pepper and 3 pints of hot water, the butter and flour rubbed smoothly with a little of the soup, to aid in mixing, and a little more to make it like thin cream. Boil 10 minutes, and when ready to serve pour in the milk, which must be boiling, to prevent it curdling the soup. This is a substantial dinner for children. It may be made thinner if required. Tomato Rice Soup. — Fry a sliced onion brown in butter or good dripping in the bottom of the soup pot; pour in the chopped con- tents of a can of tomatoes and 2 cups of boiling water; stew till tender, rub through a colander, and return to the fire ; add J cup of boiled rice; thicken with a tablespoon of butter rubbed smooth with 1 tablespoon of flour; boil up and serve. Tomato Bean Soup. — Three cups of baked beans, 6 cups of cold water, ^ teaspoonful of celery salt and 3 slices of onions ; sim- mer together 30 minutes ; strain and add H cups or more of stewed tomato strained ; salt and pepper to taste ; rub together tablespoon each of flour and butter; cook from 3 to 5 minutes; with this thick- ening. Serve with croutons, or squares of toasted bread. Liiebig Tomato Soup. — For 5 dishes, take 1 pint of cooked toma- toes, add 1 quart of water, boil and strain. Season with h teaspoon- ful Liebig's extract beef dissolved in hot water, a heaping teaspoon- ful butter, salt, sugar if liked, and 2 heaping teaspoonfuls corn-starch mixed smoothly with milk. Boil a few moments. o w Pi >^ M < < W H u o SOUPS. 61 Tomato Meat Soup. — Three pounds of beef, 1 quart of canned tomatoes, 1 gallon water. Let the meat and water boil for 2 hours, or until the liquid is reduced to a little more than 2 quarts. Then stir in the tomatoes, and stew all slowly for three-quarters of an hour longer. Season to taste, strain and serve. Asparag-us Soup — Boil 1 quart of asparagus cut in inch lengths in 1 quart of water until tender, heat 1 pint of milk and pour into the asparagus ; season with butter and salt, pour into a tureen boiling hot and serve at once in large saucers ; to be eaten with butter toast for supper when you want something good. Asparagus Soup — II. Take 2 bunches (usual size) of good aspa- ragus and cut off the tips. Cook the stalks in boiling salted water until they are perfectly tender, then drain and rub through a colander. Then take the water that the asparagus stalks have been boiled in and add to it 1 quart of fresh milk and set over the fire. When it has come to the boiling point, have a teaspoonful of butter and 2 teaspoonfuls of sifted flour well rubbed together, and stir them into the milk until quite smooth. Then add the asparagus pulp and boil about 15 min- utes, stirring frequently. Meanwhile, boil the tips separately in boil- ing salted water until they are tender, drain them, put them in the soup tureen, and after adding salt and pepper to your liking to the milk soup, pour it over the tips and serve. Asparag-us Cousoninie. — Add to 1 quart of soup stock the juice from a can of white asparagus ; season with salt and pepper, strain through a cloth and serve hot. The asparagus from the can may be used for a salad served on individual plates with wafers and olives. Toast wafers in hot oven. Puree of Celery. — Wash and scrape a head of celery and cut it into half-inch pieces. Put it into a pint of water and cook till very soft. Mash in the water in which it is boiled. Chop fine a table- spoonful of onion and cook it in a pint of milk for 10 minutes; then add the milk to the celery. Pass all through a fine strainer and return to the fire. Cook together a tablespoonful of butter and 1 of flour until smooth, but not brown. Stir it into the boiling soup, sea- son with salt and pepper, strain into the tureen and serve. Rice Celery Soup.— Boil a scant cup of rice in 3 pints of milk until it will pass through a sieve. Grate the white part of 2 or 3 he^ds of celery, add this to the rice milk after it has been strained j 62 SOUPS. to this may be added a quart of strong white stock if one wishes, or a pint of water may be used, and after the celery is tender a pint of cream added. Season to taste. Economical Celery Soup. — There is an economical way of treat- ing the large bunch of best celery which makes it cheap. Use the finer portions of the crisp stalks as a relish. All the tough portions and the root carefully cleaned are to be cut fine, covered with cold water and cooked slowly till nearly the whole can be rubbed through a strainer. Half an hour before dinner heat this liquid celery with an equal quantity of any kind of meat-broth you happen to have in the house, and then add 1 pint of hot milk thickened like a white sauce with 2 tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour cooked together. Season with salt. If you have no broth, after the soup is in the tureen stir into it slowly and smoothly the well- beaten yolk of an egg, and you will not miss at all the richness of the meat. Potag-e a la Crecy. — This is a very nice puree soup. Take 4 large red carrots, 2 potatoes, 2 onions, and 2 stalks of celery ; cut them all up and fry brown in butter or beef drippings. Then put all into 1 quart of hot water and boil until the vegetables are soft, after which press them through a sieve, or colander. Return to the fire, add 2 cloves, a teaspoonful of sugar, salt and pepper to taste, a tablespoon- ful of butter and a few parsley leaves. Heat 1 pint of milk, thicken it with 1 teaspoonful of cornstarch or flour, add to the soup, and serve croutons, or squares of toast. (Potage is the French term for soup.) (Bean Soup, meatless, will be found among the other Bean Soups.) Cabbage Soup (Meatless). — Take a good-sized cabbage (a savoy is the best), 3 onions, 2 good-sized carrots, 3 turnips, a small bunch of parsley and 2 leeks ; clean and wash them well ; when washed, pour boiling water over them and let them remain for 10 minutes, then strain and cut the vegetables small ; have ready a saucepan, put in it 2 tablespoonfuls of beef dripping and put it on the fire to melt. When the fat is melted put in the vegetables, stir them well until they begin to frizzle ; then add a quart of boiling water, a breakfast cupful of rice or barley, salt and pepper. Let the soup simmer slowly until the vegetables are quite soft, then add a pint of boiling water and let it simmer for three-quarters of an hour; 4 potatoes can be added to the other vegetables if liked. This soup will be found excellent and SOUPS. 63 inexpensive, almost a dinner in itself. Without the rice, using butter instead of dripping, and adding a few potatoes, it will make another delicious soup. Cream Vegetable Soup. — Use only small and tender vegetables — 4 carrots, 2 parsnips, 2 green onions, a pint of green peas, a handful of green beans, 2 potatoes and 1 head of cauliflower. Shell the peas, cut the rest in strips, boil in a little water till soft. Heat 3 pints of milk, put in the vegetables with their water, salt, thicken with flour. When ready to serve put in a tablespoonful of butter. Vegetable Chowder. — Fry 4 large slices of salt pork cut in dice. When the fat is extracted, (ry in it 4 small onions till of a golden- brown. Mix this in layers with 2 quarts of potatoes peeled and sliced, sprinkling each layer with some pepper and salt, using one-half cup- ful of flour, 1 teaspoonful pepper and the same of salt. Cover with water and simmer slowly till potatoes are done, or about 30 minutes usually. Split 6 common crackers, and soak them in cold water 3 minutes. Lay in the chowder. Pour in 1 pint of milk. Cover and boil up once. Arrange the crackers around the edge of a large platter, and dish the chowder in the centre. Onion, or Mock Oyster Soup. — Boil one-half dozen onions in water enough to cover them. If strong boil a turnip with them — the turnip will absorb the strong taste. When they are boiled enough mash them through a colander. Then boil them again in a quart of sweet milk. Mix 1 teaspoonful of flour with 1 tablespoonful of butter and stir in the soup. Let it boil once thoroughly, and season with pepper, salt and mace. Serve at once. Cream of Onion Soup. — Peel and cut into thin slices a dozen small white onions, and fry them to a light brown in a tablespoonful of butter. Add to the onions a pint of sweet milk, a quart of boiling water, a saltspoonful of salt, the same quantity of white pepper, ^ teaspoonful of sugar, and a pinch of mace. Cook ^ hour very slowly and strain through a fine sieve. Add the yolks of 3 eggs, well beaten, and a cupful of cream. Serve immediately. Potato Onion Soup. — Slice 2 or 3 good-sized onions and fry them in a little butter until they are soft, then add 3 tablespoonfuls of flour and stir until it is a little cooked, but not brown. To this gradually add a pint of boiling water, or stock if you have it, stirring all the time so it shall be smooth. Boil and mash 3 good-sized pota- 64 SOUPS. toes and stir in them 1 quart of boiling milk. Stir the two mixtures together and season well. When very hot pour through a colander into a tureen. Sprinkle over the top a tablespoonful of parsley, chopped fine, and a little fried bread. Potato Cream Soup. — One quart of water, 1 pint of raw sliced potatoes, butter size of an egg, salt and pepper to taste ; cover and cook until the potatoes are soft ; add a well-beaten egg and }4 pint of creamy milk, let it boil again and stir in 2 tablespoonfuls of flour mixed smoothly with a little creamy milk. Serve hot with crackers. Potato Soup. — Mash potatoes and season as for table, beating with a large fork until " creamy." Use rich milk, to which add cream or a little butter, and heat two quarts. Stir the mashed pota- toes in slowly, and when again cooked up, serve in hot dishes with celery and hot buttered toast. As a substitute for oyster stew, when oysters are out of season (or out of " reach "), I know of nothing equal to this nourishing, yet delicate dish — some people preferring it to its more expensive prototype. Greeu Pea Soup. — Green peas make a delicious soup. Boil 1 quart of peas in a quart of water for 20 minutes, mash, add a quart of milk, a tablespoonful of butter and 1 tablespoonful of flour cooked in the butter and stirred in the boiling soup, and salt and pepper to taste. Let it just come to the boiling point and serve immediately. Any sweet herbs may be used in place of the pepper. Cream of Pea Soup. — Cook one-quarter peck of peas about 2 hours, reserve one-half cupful and press the remainder through a sieve into the water in which they were boiled, and season. Mix table- spoonful of butter and the same of flour, smooth it with a cup of hot milk and add it to the soup ; also add the half cup of peas and serve. Use more milk if preferred. Cream of Corn Soup. — Remove the corn from 1 can, cover with 3 cups of water and simmer for 1 hour. Strain, press through a sieve. Scald 3 cups of milk, add the corn and 1 tablespoonful of butter rubbed smooth with 1 tablespoonful of flour. Mix until smooth ; season with salt, pepper and a few drops of celery extract. Add | cup of cream and stir until heated. Take from the fire, add the beaten yolk of an egg and serve at once. The egg or cream may be omitted, but the soup is far more delicious with the addition of both, The corn from ] 2 ears equals 1 can. SOUPS. 65 Canned Corn Soup. — Cook 1 pint of sliced potatoes until soft, and rub them through a colander. Stew 1 pint of canned green corn in milk, rub through a colander and mix with the potatoes ; then add boiling milk to make the required consistency ; season with salt and white pepper and serve. Cream of Turnip Soup. — Take 6 new turnips cut in blocks ; stew gently for half an hour in water enough to cover. Remove the turnips and press through a colander; return to the soup, which should be about 1 quart in quantity. Rub together 1 tablespoonful of butter and 2 of flour ; stir into the soup. When it is boiling, add 1 cupful of hot milk and season to taste with salt and pepper. Beat up an egg in the tureen and 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Pour it over the egg, stirring as it is poured, and serve. Okra Soup. — Cut the okra in very thin slices, and throw into IJ quarts of boiling salted water ; when tender add 1 quart of milk, a large tablespoonful of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour and white pepper to taste. This soup must be made in a porcelain kettle. Rice Soup a la Creme. — Boil a sliced onion and a bunch of celery tops in 2 quarts of water for 1 hour. Strain and add | cup of rice that has been carefully washed and looked over. Cook for three- quarters of an hour, stirring often, or until the rice is well swollen and tender. Just before serving, beat up in the tureen itself 1 egg with ^ tumblerful of rich milk — cream is better — and a pinch of nut- meg, if liked. Pour the boiling soup over this mixture from a height, beating it still with a whisk to mix all thoroughly, and serve with toast squares. Liiebig's Kice Soup. — Cook 2 tablespoonfuls of the rice in 1 quart of water, with a small onion peeled and chopped and 1 bay leaf Cook slowly 30 minutes. Take out the bay leaf, and add 2 teaspoonfuls of beef extract. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. Almond Soup witli Kice. — 1 cup of rice, 1 tablespoonful sugar, 5 pints of milk, ^ teaspoonful of salt, | pound almonds. Wash the rice, put in a farina boiler with 1 quart of milk. Cook slowly till every grain is tender. While the rice is cooking shell and blanch the almonds, chop very fine and then pound them in a mortar, adding, a few drops at a time, ^ cup of milk, forming a smooth paste. Place the paste with the sugar and remaining quantity of milk in a double 5 66 SOUPS. boiler and simmer for 30 minutes. When the rice is done, turn it carefully into the soup tureen, pour over it the almonds and milk, season with teaspoonful of salt and serve. Cauliflower Soup. — Cut a medium-sized cauliflower into small clusters, chop all except 2 bunches, and put all on the fire in 4 cups of boiling water, with a minced onion and a couple of sprigs of pars- ley ; cook till tender. Remove the unchopped bunches and lay them aside while you rub the chopped and boiled portion through a colan- der; return what comes through the sieve to the stove. Have ready in a double boiler 1 pint of scalding milk ; thicken this with a table- spoon of butter rubbed smooth with an equal quantity of flour, and mix with the strained cauliflower. Season to taste, drop in the reserved clusters cut in small pieces, and serve the soup immediately. Cliestuiit Soup — In a list of winter soups, that made from chest- nuts stands as a novelty. Peel about 60 chestnuts and blanch until the inner skin can be removed, then cook them gently in well-flavored stock until tender enough to rub through a sieve. Dilute with the liquor in which they were cooked and serve very hot, with croutons, or squares of toast. Palestine Soup. — The Palestine Soup is made of Jerusalem arti- chokes. Scrape a pound of the artichokes clean, and cut into slices. Fry 2 onions in a large tablespoonful of butter ; when brown add a dessert-spoonful of flour and a quart of water. Add the artichokes, a sprig of parsley and a little celery. Boil until the vegetables are soft, and strain through a sieve. Return to the fire, add salt and white pepper to taste, and a pint of boiling cream or milk. Beat the yolks of 2 eggs thoroughly and add just before serving. It is best to place the beaten yolks in the soup tureen and pour the boiling soup on them. Serve with fried croutons of bread. This will be found deli- cious. Carrots may be substituted for the artichokes. Cream of Spiuacli Soup. — Pick over and wash 1 pound of spinach, put into a saucepan with a little water and cook until thoroughly done. When tender press through a fine sieve. Mix 1 ounce of butter and 1 ounce of flour in a saucepan, add the spinach cream, salt and pepper to taste; add one quart of well-flavored soup stock. Let the soup come nearly to a boil, then remove from the fire and stir in the yolks of 2 eggs well beaten up with a little lemon juke • sea- son with salt and pepper, Serve with, croutons, SOUPS. 67 Cream of Barley Soup. — Boil half a cup of barley in plenty of salted water; mix 2 tablespoonfuls of flour with a little cold water, stir in 2 quarts of boiling milk. Skim the barley into this ; add butter and salt. Cheese Soup. — Take bread cut into disc shape ; fry nicely brown in butter ; put into soup tureen. Now take a little more butter, a tablespoon of flour and fry brown, then thin it with water or soup broth ; take one-fourth pound Sweitzer or Goshen cheese, cut into very thin shreds, mix into soup ; let boil until cheese is tender ; salt to taste. Beat an egg and stir it in soup. When serving, pour over fried bread. Pistachio Soup. — The pistachio soup is a cream soup flavored with pistachio nuts and colored with spinach. To make the soup, first put one pint of milk over the fire in a double boiler, and add to it one ounce of chopped pistachio nuts made almost as fine as a powder and one-half teaspoonful of almond paste. Mix well and boil twenty minutes. Pick over one pint of spinach that is as fresh and green as you can get it. Pick out the stems and ribs of the leaves, and boil that which is left in enough boiling salted water to cover it. When tender drain and chop very fine ; then press to a pulp with a potato masher. Add the spinach to the soup, mix thor- oughly, then add one tablespoonful of butter. Moisten a tablespoon- ful of arrow root with a little cold water, add a little of the hot liquid to it, and then stir into the soup and cook it until it is as thick as a thin cream. Just before serving add one-half teaspoonful of pepper, salt, and a dash of white pepper. Very nice to serve at a green luncheon. Bouille. — The French make a most acceptable soup for summer weather of thickened milk, which they call bouille. Put two table- spoonfuls of the finest wheat flour, a dessertspoonful of sugar and a teaspoonful of salt in a saucepan, and mix it to a smooth paste with a little milk. When this is thoroughly smooth enough extra milk is added to make in all a quart. A New England housekeeper would cook this soup in a double boiler, but the French housekeeper simply boils it over the fire for fifteen minutes, stirring it all the time. Nothing could be simpler than this served with little sippets of well- browned toast and a dash of pepper. The hot milk is stimulating and yet delicate, and gives just the soup one requires for a warm day, Oysters are not good unless they close firmly on the knife when being opened. If they can be opened ^iL._:^_; " easily or hold themselves open in the least, they are ^^ not fit to use. Oysters should be carefully chosen; 'W large, extra and firm-fleshed bivalves are as necessary for stews as for fries or roasts. They should never be plunged in hot water to increase their size, as this can only be done at a great loss in flavor. Oysters in the shell may be kept a fortnight at the very least by spreading them upon the cellar floor with the rounding part of the shell down, and sprinkling them well with salt and Indian meal. Cover them with two or three folds of a blanket or old carpeting, and keep this well saturated with cold water. Repeat the sprinkling with meal and salt every day, and see that the covering is thoroughly wet. Oysters kept in this manner will be found in a most satisfactory con- dition. In cases wlicre butter is given to be used with oysters, many pre- fer olive oil. Use but half the quantity that you would of butter. Use the very largest oysters for frying and broiling, the medium for raw and soup, and the smallest for scallops, croquettes, and pies. Every oyster should be looked at that no bits of shell remain attached to it. This is a very important matter, and should not be neglected. All fried articles may be reheated on paper in a very hot oven, and they will taste as though just fried. Soft bread crumbs are made from bread which is several days old, but has not been dried in the oven. Oysters. Raw Oysters. — A nice way to serve raw oysters is to take a block of clear ice, 20 to 25 pounds, melt a hollow in the top by heating a brick or a flat-iron and placing on the ice, melting a hollow deep enough to hold the oysters. Place the ice on a platter covered with a napkin to prevent slipping and to absorb the water. Arrange smilax SHELL FISH. 69 or ferns or parsley around the edge of the platter. To make it more attractive, make some holes in the sides, in irregular spots with a hot poker, and put in ferns, etc. Drain the oysters after carefully picking them over, season with salt and white pepper, A garnish of slices of lemon is an addition and should be served with them, as some prefer lemon to vinegar. This is especially nice for a center piece at an en- tertainment. In large cities ice moulds of different varieties are frozen to order and furnished by caterers. Raw Oysters. — II. If to be served at a table they should be brought on in a deep dish, accompanied by a dish of lemons, cut in quarters. Serve in small plates, half a dozen oysters to each person, with a piece of lemon in the center. Salt, pepper and vinegar should be provided. Lemon juice is sometimes served in place of vinegar. Oysters on the Half Sliell — The oysters must be small and as fresh as can be procured. Fill a soup plate full of fine cracked ice ; lay over this a small fringed doily. Clean the shells of the oysters, open them carefully, taking pains not to lose their juice, set the half shell firmly into the doily-covered ice, cut a lemon in four, lay one- quarter in the middle of the circle of oysters. In this way the oysters are chilled, the under folded part of the napkin will absorb the Avater, thus preventing the danger of soiling the table linen. Oysters on the Half Shell. — II. Allows six oysters to each per- son. Wash the shells well ; open them carefully ; take off the upper shell, detach the oyster from the under shell, but leave it there. Put six on an oyster, or round plate, and serve with a piece of lemon in the centre of the dish. With the oysters serve horse-radish, black and red pepper and thin slices of buttered graham .bread. Sauce for Raw Oysters. — Take 1 heaping tablespoonful of finely chopped shallot, 1 teaspoonful of chives, 1 saltspoonful of salt, 1 of white pepper, crushed, 5 tablespoonfuls of best tarragon vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of lime juice ; mix thoroughly and let stand for 1 hour be- fore serving. This sauce was the invention of a New York epicure, to add a fliavor to the somewhat insipid taste of raw oysters. The amount given above is sufficient for eight persons, and is to spread over them as soon as served. Oyster Stew. — Drain the liquor from a quart of oysters and put it in a saucepan over the fire, and when at boiling point skim carefully. Place a quart of milk in a double boiler, and when it begins to boil 70 SHELL FISH. add the oyster liquor, 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, 3 tablespoonfuls of rolled crackers, and the oysters. Salt and pepper to suit the taste. Let them boil up once and they are ready to serve. Plain Oyster Stew. — Same as milk or cream stew, using only oyster liquor instead of milk or cream, adding more butter after tak- ing up. Dry Oyster Stew. — Take 6 to 12 large oysters and cook them in 1 half pint of their own liquor for 5 minutes, seasoning with butter and white pepper and stirring constantly. Serve in hot oyster scallops or bowls. Oysters Stewed witli Celery. — Put 1 pint of strong clear beef soup-stock in a large stew-pan. Instead of milk use sweet cream. Of this cream add 1 pint to the broth in the stew-pan, also 4 table- spoonfuls of the best table butter, 1 teaspoonful of salt, one of white pepper, 1 of ground mace, and 1 of celery extract. If celery can be had in the stalk, chop up fine and use instead. No more delicate or healthful flavor can be added to any soup, stew or broth than this. While this is cooking dredge in finely powdered cracker dust and a little of the best corn-starch flour, until thickened to your taste. Have ready in a hot tureen 50 of the best oysters, parboiled in their own juice. Pour over these the sauce compounded as above and serve immediately. Oyster Egg Stew. — Put a pint of oysters over the fire, with a little of their own liquor, a pinch of salt, same of pepper and a tea- spoonful of butter; as soon as the beards begin to open and the juice boils, take them out, add half a pint of sauce, made with a spoonful each of flour and a cup of milk, veal stock or half milk and half oys- ter liquor, a tablespoonful of butter cut in bits ; stir all for 2 minutes, but do not allow it to boil. Then add the beaten yolks of 2 eggs. Many prefer oysters well done, in which case cook 5 minutes. Creamed. Oysters. — To one-half tablespoonful of butter, melted in a saucepan, add one heaping tablespoonful of flour. Cook a few moments, and stir in gradually one cup of hot milk. Season with salt, pepper and 1 teaspoonful of celery salt. Wash and pick over carefully 1 pint of fine oysters, boil them in their own liquor until plump, drain, and pour over them the sauce. Oyster Bisque. — Oyster bisque is delicious. One pint of chicken or veal stock (the liquor in which chickens have been boiled is excel- SHELL FISH. 71 lent for this purpose), ] pint of oysters, 1 cup of milk, 2 eggs, salt, pepper, chopped parsley, 1 heaping cup of bread crumbs and 1 great spoonful of butter rubbed in 1 of flour. Strain the stock and set over the fire with the crumbs in a farina kettle. In another vessel heat the oyster liquor, and when it simmers add the oysters chopped fine ; cook all 20 minutes. In a third vessel scald the milk, stir into this the floured butter, boil up sharply and pour upon the beaten eggs. Set in hot water while you turn the oysters and liquor into the kettle containing the stock and crumbs, and cook together before putting in the parsley and other seasoning. Finally pour in milk and eggs, after which the soup must not boil, but stand in hot water 3 minutes. Serve promptly in a hot tureen, with a pinch of cayenne. Oyster Cliowder. — For those who like onions : Peel and cut in small pieces 2 medium-sized onions ; fry in plenty of butter to a light brown; pare and slice about 4 potatoes and boil in just enough water to cover till almost done, then add the onions and about a pint of milk ; let come to a boil ; thicken with a little flour, pepper and salt and butter to taste, then add a pint of oysters and boil up once more. Oyster Cliowder. — II. Three slices of pickled pork, 2 onions, 3 potatoes, 2 dozen crackers, 5 dozen oysters, 1 quart of milk and sea- soning. Boil the pork, onions and potatoes together until nearly done. Put into the pot the oysters, milk, crackers and seasoning. Boil a few minutes. Scalloped Oysters. — To scallop oysters 1 quart of solid oysters is required for a dish that will hold two quarts. Butter the dish and put on the bottom a layer of oysters. Cover them with a layer of rolled crackers or bread crumbs, sprinkle with salt and pepper and pieces of butter, and alternate until the dish is filled, using the crumbs for the last layer, moisten well with the oyster liquor. Pour over all the liquor, and if there is not enough to moisten well, add a cupful of cream. Bake one-half hour and serve hot. Be sure the top is a nice brown. It is better to cover the dish a while at first to keep it from browning too quickly. If the oyster liquor is not liked, use milk alone for moistening. Scalloped Oysters. — II. Crush and roll several handfuls of crack- ers. Put a layer in the bottom of a buttered pudding-dish. Wet this with a mixture of the oyster liquor and milk. Next, have a layer of oysters. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and lay small bits of but- 72 SHELL FISH. ter upon them. Then another layer of moistened crumbs, and so on until the dish is full. Let the top layer be of crumbs, thicker than ihc rest, and beat an egg into the milk you pour over them. Stick bits of butter thickly over it, cover the dish, set it in the oven, bake half an hour; if the dish be large, remove the cover, and brown by setting it upon the upper grating of oven. Scalloped Oysters witli Hard-Boiled Eggs. — Chop 6 hard-boiled eggs fine. Add these to 1 pint of bread crumbs. Season with one- half teaspoonful of salt and one-quarter teaspoonful of white pepper. Put a layer of this mixture in the bottom of a well-buttered pudding dish, then a layer of oysters, alternating until the dish is full, and having the crumbs for the last layer. Take 2 tablespoonfuls of but- ter, cut in bits and dot over the top. Pour in the oyster liquor and bake in a quick oven for 30 minutes. Serve hot. Milk can be used instead of the oyster liquor, if liked. Fried Oysters. — Only the large selects are fit for frying. Dry them on a folded towel, laying in rows upon one end and pressing the other end upon them to absorb the moisture. Beat 2 eggs light about ten minutes; add a pinch of salt; have ready a bowl of cracker crumbs (use thin soda crackers), about one-half pound, and roll upon the molding board until fine; put one-half of the cracker dust one side, and use the other half for the first laying in of the oysters ; take each oyster and roll it in the cracker dust and arrange upon a plate ; after all the oysters are thus rolled take each one and dip with a fork carefully into the egQ, and from there lay into the second half of rolled cracker, putting them each one upon a plate. Have the lard, or but- ter and lard mixed, smoking hot, and drop in the oysters, one by one, with a fork. As fast as one side of an oyster is done turn over. Take out with a fork. A quicker way is to put several in a wire frying basket and immerse it in the hot fat. Serve very hot and garnish with sliced lemon and parsley. Drain for a moment upon coarse brown paper before serving. Epicures prefer to fry oysters in salad oil rather than butter ; if you have a large quantity to fry, they may be dipped an hour or two before serving time, and spread on a clean cloth in a cool place. They may also be drained, dipped in seasoned corn meal and fried in lard. The oyster liquor may be utilized by stirring into a batter, with some of the seasoned corn meal, and dropped by spoonfuls into the hot lard to fry as mock oysters. SHELL FISH. 73 Oysters Fried in Batter. — Drain the oysters and then dip into a batter made of two eggs beaten Hght, one cup of milk, and flour enough to form a soft batter, and season with pepper and salt. Put equal quantities of butter and lard into a spider, and let the mixture be smoking hot before you put in the oysters. Do not crowd them. Turn them so as to cook both sides a delicate brown. Serve very hot and garnish with parsley and sliced lemon. What is left of the batter can be dropped by spoonfuls in the hot fat and fried like croquettes and served with the oysters. Restaurant Fried Oysters. — In the first place, avoid cracker crumbs. They are pasty. Instead, put some stale bread in the oven to dry, and after it is thoroughly hard and dry grate it finely and keep the crumbs in a glass jar, so that if any are left they can be kept for future use. Then beat together an egg and a cup of sweet milk, sea- soning with salt, pepper, and, if liked, a little Worcester sauce. Be sure not to beat the egg separately. Dip the oysters first in their own liquid, then in the crumbs, then in the egg and milk and lastly in the crumbs again. Then comes the actual frying, which is the crucial point. The secret of success is to have plenty of fat and have it boiling hot. Let them brown quickly and delicately on both sides. Drain on brown paper and serve. Large oysters are not especially desirable, except for looks. The small ones taste quite as good. Cooks in restaurants have a trick of putting two small ones together in " dipping " before frying. Quiclt Fried Oysters. — Break an egg in a bowl and beat well ; then turn in one-half pint of oysters, liquid and all. Be careful to remove any bits of shell ; stir into this enough finely rolled cracker crumbs to thicken. Heat butter and lard, half and half, in a frying pan. Mix the oysters and crackers thoroughly, turn all into the fry- ing pan and level it like a large thick griddle-cake. Fry brown on one side and then turn and brown the other side. Be careful not to burn. Have it rather moist, but if you chance to get in too many cracker crumbs add a spoonful of milk. Fried Oysters with 3Iiishrooms. — Fry the oysters after any pre- ferred recipe. Take mushrooms and cut them down to the stem. Place them in a baking pan with a small piece of butter and put them in the oven for about five minutes. Put them on a flat dish and put the oysters on top, garnish with parsley and serve. 74 SHELL FISH. Panned Oysters. — For panning oysters in the following way, use patty pans, scallop plates or small deep china saucers. Cut pieces of thin toast to fill the bottom, butter them well, pour a tablespoonful of well-seasoned oyster juice upon each piece, dip the oysters in their liquor and put a double layer of them upon each piece of toast. Place a morsel of butter upon the top, put all into a baking pan, cover and set in a quick oven to bake 8 or 10 minutes. Serve with small bits of lemon to each pan. Send hot to the table in the pans. Panned Oysters. — II. Put a sufficient quantity of very fine oys- ters in a pan together with their own juice. Add 1 tablespoonful of the best butter, a little black pepper and a pinch of salt. Sprinkle a quantity of fine cracker crumbs over the top. Place over a quick fire. When the oysters begin to swell they are done. Serve instantly. The crumbs can be omitted. Pan Roast. — A pan roast is very nearly as delicious as oysters roasted in the shell. Drain the oysters. Put an iron frying pan over a quick fire to heat; as soon as it is hissing hot throw in the oysters and shake and stir until they boil ; then add salt, pepper and a piece of butter the size of a walnut for 25 oysters. Serve in a hot dish im- mediately. These are very nice, retaining all the natural oyster flavor. Baked Oysters. — Take nice large oysters in the shell. Wash and scrub the shells until free from sand. Now place them in a baking pan, put in a very quick oven (400 degrees Fahrenheit), and bake until they open their shells. Now remove the upper shells, put a small bit of butter on each oyster, sprinkle lightly with salt and cayenne and serve in the under shells. Baked Oysters. — II. Open the shells, keeping the deepest one for use. Melt some butter and season with finely chopped parsley and pepper. When slightly cool roll each oyster in it, using care that it drips as little as possible. Lay the oysters in the shells, and add to each a little lemon juice. Cover with bread crumbs, and place the shells in a dripping pan and bake in a quick oven. Serve in the shells. Steamed Oysters. — Buy the oysters unopened, wash thoroughly, using a brush or coarse cloth; place them separately in the steamer, or in a large sieve put on top of a large pot of boiling water. The deep shell must be undermost in order that no juice may be wasted. As soon as the oysters open they are done and should be served at once with pepper, salt, butter, etc., to taste. SHELL FISH. 75 Steamed Oysters. — H. Drain the oysters and put them in a dish in a steamer over boihng water. Cover closely and steam until they are plump and the edges muffled. Season with salt and pepper; let them stand a moment longer, then serve on rounds of buttered toast. Fricassee of Oysters. — Twenty-five oysters, 1 large tablespoon- ful of butter, 1 large tablespoonful of flour, one-half pint of milk, 1 beaten egg, 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Salt and cayenne to taste. Boil the oysters in their own liquor; drain. Put the butter in a frying pan, and when melted add the flour ; mix until smooth. Now add the milk, stir until it boils ; add the oysters and a half cup of the liquor, salt and cayenne, and stir again until it boils. Take from the fire, add the yolks of the eggs lightly beaten and the parsley ; serve at once. Broiled Oysters. — For broiling choose large, fat oysters, and wipe each one with a soft cloth. Sprinkle salt and cayenne pepper upon them, and dip in melted butter. Roll each one in cracker dust. But- ter well a fine wire double broiler, and lay on it the oysters. Let the fire be hot and clear. Serve very hot on round pieces of toast, but- tered. Keep the broiler expressly for oysters. If meat is broiled on it, it will impart an unpleasant taste. Some cooks omit the crumbs, dipping simply in melted butter. The oysters can be served with a sauce, as follows : — Sauce : Simmer together the liquor, a bit of but- ter, and enough flour to thicken to the consistency of the cream. Maitre de Hotel sauce can be served if liked. Macaroni and Oysters. — Break into 2-inch lengths 4 ounces of macaroni ; put it in boiling water ; boil rapidly for 20 minutes ; drain. Drain 25 oysters, put a layer of macaroni in bottom of baking dish, then a layer of oysters, a dust of salt and pepper, and so continue until the materials are used ; cover the top with bread crumbs, put a few bits of butter over the top, and brown in the oven 20 minutes. Add the strained oyster liquor to moisten, and a cupful of milk. Spaghetti and Oysters. — One quart of oysters and 1 cupful of spaghetti, broken in half-inch pieces. Boil the spaghetti in boiling salted water for 30 minutes. Drain and stir in a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and a suspicion of cayenne. Grease a baking dish and put a layer of this in the bottom, then a layer of oysters ; sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper, to taste, and add a few small pieces of butter, then another layer of spaghetti and oysters, having the top 76 SHELL FISH. layer spaghetti, with a sprinkhng of grated cheese. Bake in a mod- erate oven 20 minutes and serve. Oysters and Rice. — Wash 1 pint of rice, put it into a double boiler, and salt to taste; add the strained liquor from one quart of oysters, stir occasionally while cooking; when done and while hot add one-quarter pound of butter, beat 2 eggs separately, and when cool stir them in; butter a pudding dish and put the rice into it; it should be 1}^ inches deep; spread the oysters over the rice; salt and pepper and cover with bits of butter, sprinkle over the oysters 1 large cup of fine cracker dust and more butter in bits; brown quickly in a hot oven and serve at once. Curried Oysters. — Drain the juice from 1 pint of oysters, put in a saucepan on the fire, let it come to a boil and skim ; put into another saucepan two ounces of butter, one small onion, cut into thin strips. As soon as the onion is a golden brown add to it 1 teaspoonful of flour. Stir until it is a smooth paste, turn in one-half pint of the oys- ters that have been boiled, 1 teaspoonful of curry powder. Allow it to first boil. Strain into a double boiler and put it where it will keep warm. Wipe off 1 pint of oysters, brush with butter a hot griddle, place the oysters on it, and as soon as they begin to curl turn them over. When done add them to the sauce and serve immediately. Oyster Vol au Vent. — This is delicious, and when carefully pre- pared makes an excellent entree. Blanch and drain 50 oysters, soak a pair of sweetbreads in cold water for an hour, remove the skin, fat and other impurities, and put over the fire with a pint of boiling water salted and spiced to taste ; boil 1 minute, take them off and drop in cold water. Quarter them and put into a stew-pan, with the oyster liquor, a gill of cream and two saltspoonfuls of salt. Stew until the sweetbreads are cooked, and add 4 ounces of butter, rubbed into 2 of flour ; add oysters, give one boil, fill either the individual pastry shells with the mixture, with a ladleful of sauce over each, or put all in a large vol au vent case, which can be ordered from the baker, or simply serve in a heated china dish. Oysters on Toast. — Select 12 fresh, plump oysters. Have ready delicately browned toast, moistened in hot milk, and well buttered. Put the oysters with their own liquor in a stew-pan ; season with a little black pepper, one-half blade of mace, and one-half teacup of rich cream. Let this boil until the oysters swell. Remove and place upon SHELL FISH. 77 the hot toast, enriching with bits of fresh butter. Rub 1 teaspoonful of butter and 1 teaspoonful of flour together, stir this into the boiHng oyster hquor. Then pour it over the toast and oysters, which must be kept very hot. For a larger quantity, 1 quart of oysters and their liquor to one pint of cream or rich milk. Oysters ou Toast. — H. {Without Milk). — Strain the oyster liquor, rinse the bits of shell from the oysters, turn the liquor back upon them, and put in a stew-pan, set them where they will boil up. Salt, pepper and butter to your taste. Have ready nicely-browned toast, previously moistened in boiling water and well buttered. Arrange this in a dish and pour over it the boiling oysters, and serve at once. If this gravy is too rich, add a little water to the oyster liquor. Serve walnut catsup or vinegar with them. Oysters on Crackers. — Split common crackers, butter and brown crisply ; then on each half cracker put as many oysters as will cover the surface, well sprinkled with salt and pepper ; set in the oven until the oysters grow plump. Gricldled Oystei's. — Have the griddle heated the same as for griddle cakes. Wipe the oysters dry. Now spread them on a clean towel and place on a large plate. Have on a dish as many slices of buttered toast as there are persons to serve. Take 1 tablespoonful of butter for every dozen oysters. Drop a piece of butter about the size of a large pea on the hot griddle and immediately drop an oyster on this butter. Continue this work rapidly until the oysters are on the griddle. Now come back to the first one. Drop a bit of butter near it, then slip a knife under the oyster and lift it from the griddle, with the brown crust that has formed under it. Turn it over on the fresh bit of butter and continue in this way until all have been turned. Then, beginning with the first oyster, take off all and place them on the toast. The entire work must be done rapidly or the oysters will be cooked too much. Never try the shorter way of buttering the entire griddle at once ; if you do you will have burned butter, which will destroy the true flavor of the oysters. Grilled Oysters. — Same as Griddled Oysters. Oyster Patties. — Make tart shells in small patty-pans as for fruit tarts, and fill with oysters prepared as follows : Take 1 quart of oys- ters, place in a large baking dish with butter, pepper and salt to taste. Bake until the oysters curl. In the meantime put in a saucepan 1 78 SHELL FISH. pint of milk. When this scalds, add 1 large teaspoonful of corn starch moistened with cold milk; let boil, season with salt and a tablespoonful of butter. A dash of cayenne improves the flavor. The gravy should be quite thick. To this mixture add the oysters, but do not let them boil. Spread a napkin over a platter. Fill the patty-shells and serve at once. These patties may be changed by filling the patty-pans with raw paste, pouring in the above mixture, covering the top of each one thickly with fine bread crumbs, dot- ting it with bits of butter, and baking in the oven until the crust is done. Serve in the same manner. Milk may be omitted in this last way and the oyster liquor simply seasoned highly with salt, pepper and butter, thickened with corn starch, scalded and poured over the oysters, and the patties filled as before. Oyster Patties. — H. Put into a saucepan 1 tablespoonful of butter, a dash of pepper, a saltspoonful of salt, and a teacupful of cracker crumbs. When thoroughly mixed add 1 pint of chopped oysters ; simmer for 10 minutes ; pour into shells ; sprinkle with cracker crumbs. Place in the oven for about 3 minutes. Serve hot. Oyster Pates, — One pint of cream, 1 quart of oysters, 1 table- spoonful of fl.our, yolks of 2 well-beaten eggs, salt and pepper to taste, let the cream come to a boil, mix the flour with a little cold milk and stir into the boiling cream and add the seasoning ; let the oysters come to a boil in their own liquor, drain and put each oyster into 3 or 4 pieces, add them to the cream and boil up once ; then add the beaten yolks, have the patty-shells baked ; fill with the mixture and serve. This makes 20 shells. Bake the shells in patty-pans, use rich puff paste. It is nice to bake small rounds for covers also. Heat the shells if they are not freshly baked. Put on the covers and set in the oven for 4 or 5 minutes. Oyster Pates. — II. Stew some oysters in a little of their own liquor, add cream, butter, a little nutmeg, pepper and salt. Let cool. Have shells of puff paste, or little cases, prepared, lay two or three oysters in each, and pour in the gravy. Mushroom and Oyster Pates. — One can select oysters, put in a strainer and drain liquor off; one-half can of mushrooms cut rather SHELL FISH. 79 small, according to size, pour juice of both together, one tablespoon- ful of capers chopped fine, 2 sprigs of parsley. When this is pre- pared put 2 tablespoonfuls of butter in a stew-pan. When melted add as much flour as it will absorb, stir into a smooth white roux, pour the liquor in gradually until a very thick broth is obtained. Stir continually, as some cans of oysters do not have much juice, add a little water, not too much ; if the roux is too thin, the oysters will draw; salt and pepper to taste, add a few drops of lemon juice just before serving. If for an oyster pie, throw in all together and fill pie immediately. Bake 15 minutes in a hot oven. If for patties, let all be hot before putting in cases. Oysters a la Newburg-. — Put 25 oysters over the fire in their own liquor, stir carefully until they come to a boiling point, drain carefully, put 2 tablespoonfuls of butter into a frying pan, add a tablespoonful of flour, mix. Add a gill of cream, and when boiHng add the yolks of 2 eggs and the oysters. Bring again to a boiling point, season, and turn into a dish. Sprinkle over 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry and garnish with tiny crackers. If wine is not used, the same quantity of lemon juice may be substituted. Potato Oyster Pats. — Peel and boil 12 potatoes, mash fine, salt to taste, add piece of butter the size of an egg, 4 tablespoonfuls of sweet cream ; beat lightly ; when cold work into pats, putting 2 oys- ters into each ; dip in beaten egg, roll in cracker meal ; put butter on the top of each ; bake a light brown in quick oven. Oysters a la Poulette. — Wash a solid quart of oysters in their own liquor and drain in a colander. When well drained set aside. Strain the liquor and put half a pint into a saucepan. When it boils skim carefully, and stir into it a heaping teaspoonful of flour, mixed smooth, in 3 tablespoonfuls of cold water. Let it boil 5 minutes. Pour a quart of cream into a double boiler, and when it begins to boil add the thickened oyster liquor, and season with salt, pepper, a slight grating of nutmeg and a dash of cayenne. Have ready the well- beaten yolks of 4 eggs, and add to them half a cup of cold cream. Turn the oysters into the boiling mixture, together with a tablespoon- ful of butter and the egg mixture. Cook for .3 minutes, stirring all the time. Remove from the fire immediately, and serve with a border of puff paste cakes. If liked, a tablespoonful of lemon juice pr a wine glass of sherry may be added, just as the oysters are 80 SHELL FISH. taken from the fire. Two beaten eggs can be used instead of the 4 egg yolks. Oyster Griddle Cakes. — Two scant cups of sifted flour and 2 scant teaspoonfuls of baking powder, a little salt and sift twice, always twice. Mix with sweet milk, and a teaspoonful of sweet thick cream; if thin cream use 2 teaspoonfuls. Do not have the batter too thick. Dot the griddle all over with a little, not nearly as much as for regu- lar griddle cakes ; lay an oyster on each cake ; salt and pepper; cover with a little more of the batter, and cook rather slowly until a nice brown. Turn and drain the oysters. Grease the griddle well each frying. Warm the plates. Eat hot with butter. Another batter to be used the same way : Two eggs (to a pint of oysters), 2 cups of flour, 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder, half tea- spoonful of salt. Thin with the oyster liquor and milk until thick enough to drop from the spoon. Oyster and Miisliroom Ragout. — A ragout of oysters is con- sidered by many the most savory way to prepare them. Boil 25 oysters in their liquor for 1 minute and drain, saving the liquor. Let cold water run over the oysters, remove the hard parts, or eyes, and throw them away. Peel a pint of fresh mushrooms, cut them in pieces and simmer for 5 minutes with 2 ounces of butter, season with salt and pep- per, add the oysters, 2 tablespoonfuls of the oyster liquor, a gill of thick, sweet, hot cream, and a teaspoonful of butter cut into small bits and rolled in flour. Let them boil up once and serve in individual dishes. Oyster Pie. — Line a deep dish with nice paste, dredge the crust with flour, pour in 1 pint of oysters. Season well with butter, salt and pepper, sprinkling flour over all. Pour on a little of the oyster liquor. Cover with a crust. Two hard-boiled eggs chopped coarsely and mixed with the oysters, will be found a desirable addition. The eggs and the flour may be omitted and a cup of cracker crumbs used instead. One-half teaspoonful of mace is liked by some. Serve as an entree. Veal and Oyster Pie. — One pound and a half of veal cutlets, three- quarters of a pound of ham, 50 oysters, a cupful of weak gravy or broth, the peel of half a lemon; pepper, salt and puff paste. Cut the veal into small, neat cutlets and spread over each a thin layer of minced ham ; season them with pepper, salt and grated lemon peel, and roll each cutlet round. Line the sides of a pie dish with good paste, put a layer of rolled veal at the bottom, then a layer of oysters, SHELL FISH. 81 then another layer of veal and a layer of oysters ; on top dredge each layer with a little flour. Pour over it a gravy made of a cupful of weak gravy or broth, the grated peel of half a lemon, the oyster liquor strained and a seasoning of salt and pepper. Put a crust over the top, ornament it in any way you please; egg it over and bake in a moderate oven 1}4 hours. Boston Oyster Pie. — Line a deep pie plate with puff paste, or ordinary pie paste. Fold a clean towel and put into the dish to sup- port the lid, and place over it a sheet of paste for said lid. Bake the paste well. When done remove the lid and take out the towel. In the meantime drain the oysters, carefully strain the liquor and put the oysters in a stew pan with just enough of the liquor to keep them from burning. Season with pepper, salt and butter. Add a little sweet cream or milk and a couple of crackers rolled fine. Let the oysters simmer, but not boil. Remove the upper crust of pastry, fill the dish with the oysters and gravy, replace the cover and serve the whole hot. The upper crust can be baked separately on a pie plate same size as the pie and then used for a cover. Little Oyster Pies. — Take the small pie plates half the size of ordinary pie plates, line with puff paste, lay on 5 or 6 large oysters, or enough smaller ones to cover the bottom. Dot with bits of butter and season with a little salt and plenty of pepper. Make an egg batter as for Oyster Griddle Cakes, and pour over the oysters. Bake in a hot oven 20 minutes. Some cooks cover the whole with a crust of the paste, pricking it with a fork, and bake until a delicate brown. These are really to be served individually, and are more appropriate to a restaurant than a private family. A large pie could be made in the same manner. Oysters an Beiirre Noir. — Place 1 pint of oysters in a saucepan and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover and allow them to plump in their own liquor, tossing lightly with a fork. In another pan put 2 tablespoons of butter and stir until it browns (not burns), then add third of a cup of vinegar, and when hot pour over the oysters (draining them first) and serve at once with thin points of dry toast. Curled Oysters. — Put slices of generously buttered toast in a dripping-pan; pour over them a quart of oysters, season with salt and pepper. Put in the upper part of a very hot oven and bake until the oysters begin to shrivel. 82 SHELL FISH. Oyster Loaf. — Drain 50 good, fat oysters. Put them over the fire, watch carefully to a boil. Drain, add to the liquor sufficient milk to make J pint. Rub together 2 tablespoonfuls butter and 2 of flour. Add milk and the oyster liquor. When boiling add oysters, 1 beaten egg, a tablespoonful of parsley, and a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper. Serve hot in a boat made from stale bread nicely fried. To make a boat use half a loaf stale bread from which the middle has been taken, brush with melted butter and put in a quick oven until a light brown. Oyster Loaf. — H. Cut the tops from the requisite number of small French rolls ; brush over with melted butter and set in the oven to brown while you prepare the oysters. Allow 3 large oysters for each roll ; bring them to the boil in their liquor ; lift out and thicken the liquor with a white roux of butter and flour ; add a gill of cream and season with salt, pepper, and cayenne, with a dash of nutmeg. This sauce must be very thick ; lay in the oysters ; fill the rolls with the mixture ; set on the tops and serve at once. Roux is a creamy mixture of butter and flour melted together. Instead of the rolls, cases may be prepared as follows; Cut a long loaf of bread into slices about 2 inches thick, a baker's 5 cent loaf will make 6. Now trim off the crust and make each piece square. Dig the crumb out of the centre of each piece, leaving sides and bottom like a box — that is, make a square box out of each slice of bread. Brush each box over with melted butter and put in a quick oven until a light brown. Fill with the above mixture. Croiistade of Oysters. — Take a stale loaf of bread. If home- made, bake a loaf for the purpose in a 2 quart basin. When ready for use, with a sharp knife remove the heart of the bread, working carefully not to break the crust. Break up the crumbs very fine and dry slowly in the oven ; then quickly fry 3 cupfuls of them in 2 table- spoonfuls of butter until crisp and golden brown, stirring all the time; 2 minutes will usually be enough time. Put 1 quart of cream (if you have it, or, wanting that, the richest milk you can get) on to boil. Just as it boils stir in 3 tablespoonfuls of flour mixed smooth in half a cup of cold milk. Boil 8 minutes, seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Put a layer of this sauce in the cronstade, then a layer of oysters, which dredge well with salt and pepper; then another layer of sauce and one of fried crumbs. Continue this SHELL FISH. 83 until the cronstade is nearly full, having the last layer a thick one of crumbs. Bake slowly half an hour ; garnish with parsley. It takes lyi pints of oysters and about 3 teaspoonfuls of salt and half a tea- spoonful of pepper. Pickled Oysters. — Put 100 large oysters, with the liquor, into a porcelain-lined kettle. Heat slowly until the oysters are very hot, but not boiling. Take them out with a skimmer and set aside in a stone jar to cool. To the liquor which remains in the kettle add 1 pint of vinegar, 1 ounce of whole mace, the same quantity of whole cloves, and 2 large red peppers, cut into pieces. When it comes to a boil pour over the oysters. Cover the jar and put in a cool place. The following day put the pickled oysters into pint glass jars and seal. The air, like the light, will turn them dark, so keep the jars in a dark, cool place. Will keep 2 or 3 weeks. To be eaten cold. Deviled Oysters. — To devil oysters in their shells, select large ones, and when opened keep them in their deep shells with the liquor. Place the shells on a gridiron, season with cayenne pepper and salt, placing a small piece of butter on the top of each oyster. Have your fire bright, and a few minutes will suffice to cook them. Deviled Oysters. — 11. Twenty-five nice fat oysters, half pint of cream, 1 tablespoonful of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 1 table- spoonful of chopped parsley, yolks of 2 eggs, salt and cayenne pepper to taste. Drain the oysters and chop them middling fine and drain again. Put the cream on to boil. Rub the butter and flour together and stir into the cream when boiling. As soon as it thickens take it from the fire and add all the other ingredients. Beat the yolks before adding them. Have the deep shells of the oysters washed perfectly clean, fill them with this mixture, sprinkle lightly with bread crumbs, put them in a baking pan and brown in a quick oven for 5 minutes. Serve in the shells, garnish with parsley. They may be cooked in clam or silver scallop shells, but are much better done in their own shells, as there is a flavor imparted by the heated shell which greatly enriches the mixture. A word of caution — avoid long cooking, as it makes them dry. If your oven will not brown them in 5 or 6 minutes, and you have no salamander, heat your fire shovel red-hot. Take the shells from the oven, hold the shovel over them until they brown. These may be prepared several hours before they are wanted and placed in the oven and browned at 84 SHELL FISH. serving time. One-half teaspoonful dry mustard is a spicy addition to the seasoning. Instead of thickening the preparation with flour, some cooks use for this amount of oysters, half cupful of rolled cracker crumbs omitting the eggs and adding the butter to the crumbs and stirring into the boiling cream. Cook in same manner. Stuffed Oysters. — Wipe and season large oysters with salt and pepper; roll them in cracker dust; spread half the oysters with force- meat; cover these with the remaining oysters; press them together gently; roll them in the crumbs again and fry in the usual way. Serve on a folded napkin, with lemon points. A bread dressing sea- soned with onions and mixed with egg may be used. Stuffed Oysters. — II. A delicious, but troublesome method of serving this dish. For 24 large oysters take for force-meat the breast of a fowl, chopped, pounded and rubbed fine. One-fourth of a cupful of cream or milk, eighth of a cupful of stale bread crumbs free of crust, the white of 1 egg, 1 tablespoonful of butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, a tiny bit of white pepper and a slight grating of nutmeg. Put the bread and cream in a small saucepan and cook until a smooth paste is formed. Take this paste from the fire and add the seasoning, chicken and the white of the egg well beaten. Mix all well and set away to cool. Dry the oysters on a soft towel and season them well with salt and pepper. Now roll them in fine bread crumbs and lay them on a large dish. Divide the forcemeat into 12 parts and spread evenly on 12 oysters. Lay the other 12 oysters on the first dozen, pressing gently with the aid of the knife to make them stick. Put into a deep plate the yolk of the egg left from the forcemeat and 1 whole egg, and beat well with a fork. Season with salt. Dip the stuffed oysters in this egg and then roll them in bread crumbs, being careful to have every part covered with the egg and crumbs. When all are done place them in a frying basket and cook until they are a rich brown in fat at the temperature of about 400 degrees. It will take about 1 1/< minutes to fry them. The stuffed oysters may be kept in a cool place for several hours before frying. If wished, iiiaitrc dc Hotel sauce may be served with them. T^ittle Pijis in Blankets. — Season large oysters with salt and pepper. Cut fat English bacon in very thin slices, wrap an oyster in each slice and fasten with a little wooden toothpick. Heat a frying pan and put in the little pig. Cook just long enough to crisp the H w w Pi m o I— I u w Q w a w o < 'A SHELL FISH. 85 bacon, about 2 minutes. Place on slices of toast that have been cut into small pieces. Do not remove the skewers; garnish with parsley. Have the pan very hot before the pigs are put in and shake con- tinually; do not burn. If 2 or 3 drops of lemon juice are squeezed over each oyster before rolling up, the flavor will be improved. Have small rounds or triangles of hot toast, buttered, lay on each one or more oysters according to size, and serve quickly. Garnish with cut lemon and parsley. Oyster Saiite. — Twenty-five nice fat oysters, quarter pound of Irish breakfast bacon, pepper and flour. Drain the oysters and dry them with a towel, then sprinkle with pepper and roll them in flour. Put the bacon, cut into thin slices, in a frying pan, and let all the fat fry out of it; then remove the bacon and cover the bottom of the pan with oysters; as soon as crisp and brown on one side turn and brown on the other. Serve on squares of buttered toast. These are de- licious. If no Irish bacon is at hand, use the ordinary smoked pork. Oysters a la Norinandie. — One pint of large oysters, remove from their liquor and put over the fire with 1 teaspoonful of butter, juice of 1 lemon, 1 teaspoonful celery salt, let simmer 3 minutes and remove. Melt 1 tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan, cook it for 2 minutes with 1 tablespoonful of flour. Add 1 cupful of chicken broth, 1 cupful of the oyster liquor, 3 tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor and cook 5 minutes and remove. Add half teaspoonful of sea- soning salt and 1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoonful of lemon juice; add this slowly to the sauce ; then 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, and last of all the oysters. Let them reach boiling point and pour over 6 slices of toast. Oyster Rarebit. — Clean and remove the hard muscle from half a pint of oysters; parboil them in their own liquor until their edges curl, and remove to a hot bowl. Put 1 tablespoonful of butter and half pound of cheese broken in small bits, 1 saltspoon each of salt and mustard, and a few grains of cayenne into a dish; while the butter is melting beat 2 eggs slightly and add to them the oyster liquor; mix this gradually to the melted cheese; add the oysters and turn at once over hot toast. Oyster Potpie. — Scald a quart can of oysters in their own liquor. When it boils skim out the oysters and set aside in a warm place. To the liquor add a pint of hot water. Season with pepper and salt 86 SHELL FISH. and a generous piece of butter. Thicken with a teaspoonful of flour rubbed smooth in cold milk. Have ready light biscuit dough, rolled half inch thick, cut into inch squares, drop into the boiling stew, cover closely and cook 40 minutes. Stir the oysters in, let boil up once and serve in the sauce dish. A nice entree. Smothered Oysters. — Into a saucepan put a tablespoon of butter, a saltspoon of pepper and a teaspoon of salt ; when hot add a pint of strained oysters ; shake the pan to keep the oysters from sticking, and when plump serve on toasted crackers. Oyster Sliort-Cake. — Make a short-cake and bake on pie plates. Put a quart of oysters over the fire with half cupful of milk and quarter cupfulof water, 2 teaspoonfuls butter, salt and pepper; thicken with 1 tablespoonful of flour rubbed smooth in the water. When the short- cakes are baked, split and spread oysters between and over the top. Oyster Sausages. — One cup of chicken or veal minced fine, 1 cup of bread crumbs, 1 ounce of beef suet chopped fine, 30 oysters chopped, add 1 ^^'g, season with black pepper and mace and a little cayenne pepper. Make into balls or sausage shape. Boil in egg and bread crumbs and fry. Serve with a rich, brown gravy. Oyster Cocktails. — The following recipe was furnished by the chef of a prominent New York club. For every 100 small oysters take 4 tablespoonfuls of tomato catsup, a tablespoonful of pepper vinegar^ a tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce, the juice of 2 lemons, 2 or 3 drops of tabasco sauce and a cup of oyster liquor. Drain the oysters free from their liquor and strain the required amount before using. Mix the cocktail fully half an hour before serving, and thoroughly chill. Lobsters. If purchased alive, lobsters should be of a dark green color and the shell not bruised nor broken. If already boiled, the shell should be firm and a good bright red, with the tail well curled under. If the tail hangs out straight they have died before being boiled, and are not good. Epicures prefer the " hen lobsters " on account of the coral Of eggs. Very large lobsters are not the best, the meat being tojjgb. Boiled Lobster. — Have sufficient well-salted water boiling to cotieT the desired number of lobsters. Drop them in alive and boil SHELL FISH. 87 till thoroughly cooked, which will take from twenty to thirty minutes. When boiled they should look a good red color and seem firm. If boiled without salt they will taste insipid ; half cup of salt to 4 pounds of lobster is the proportion. To open and take from the shell break off the large claws, separate the upper jointed part and drain the liquor into a cup. Then remove the small claws and pull the tail from the body. Crack the large claws and joints well with a mallet, and remove the meat with a fork. A nut-pick or skewer will be of assistance in taking the meat from the joints. If there is much white fat in the shells, scrape it on to a plate. Lay the tails flat on a board and cut nearly through lengthwise a little to one side of the centre by pressing with a carver or chopping-knife. Having laid the tail open you will see a black line running through the centre, which must be carefully removed. Pull the bodies from the shell and care- fully scrape every bit of green fat (" tomalley ") and coral on to a plate. Here again look out for the black line, as it runs the whole length of the lobster. It may not be black all the way, but will be apparent as a whitish cord. The bodies may be broken lengthwise, the cells on the sides broken apart and the meat removed. Care must be taken in doing this not to get the bony substance with the meat. Save the best of the small claws to garnish the salad and add the rest to the shells. The head is not to be used. The sand pouch near the throat is to be removed. Care must be taken that none of the tough gill-like particles found under the body shall get mixed with the meat, as they are very indigestible. Serve the boiled lobster meat warm with a sauce, or cold as a relish. Lobster Sauce. — Bruise the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs with the back of a wooden spoon, or pound in a mortar, with a tablespoon- ful of water, and the soft inside and spawn of the lobster ; rub all quite smooth, with a teaspoonful of made mustard, 2 tablespoonfuls of salad oil and 3 or 4 of vinegar ; season with a dash of cayenne, a little salt, a teaspoonful of anchovy sauce and 1 of tarragon vinegar. This sauce may accompany a lobster to table, or be used for a salad dressing, and poured over just before serving. Broiled Lobster. — A lobster not less than 10}4 inches long should be selected and split in two lengthwise, which instantly kills it. Remove the entrail and stomach. Brush a little butter over the lob- ster and broil the shell side first, then turn and broil the other. 88 SHELL FISH. Serve with melted butter. The lobster should never be boiled and then broiled. Crack the large claws and joints before broiling, so the meat can be removed readily after it is cooked. Garnish with sliced lemon, or parsley. Broiled Lobster. — H. Remove the meat from shell whole, where- ever it is possible, place it on the broiler, and broil slowly until a delicate brown. When done pour over it a sauce made with 2 table- spoonfuls of melted butter seasoned with salt and a bit of cayenne pepper; add to this 2 teaspoonfuls of lemon juice and a little chopped parsley. Baked Lobster. — Baked lobsters are considered a great delicacy. Split the lobster open, remove the stomach, or lady, and the intestine. Lay the 2 pieces in a baking pan. Spread over the top of each salt, pepper and butter and sprinkle with bread crumbs. Bake about 40 minutes in a hot oven; during the baking baste it twice by pouring over it a little melted butter. Baked Lobster. — II. Meat of 2 lobsters, half a can of tomatoes, or a pint of fresh tomatoes stewed, a cup of crumbs, salt, cayenne pep- per and onion to season, butter the size of an egg. Rub a baking dish with an onion, melt a little of the butter in the bottom, then add the other ingredients in layers. Finish with a layer of crumbs dotted with butter. Bake brown and serve hot. If any is left over put in a smaller dish and brown again. Baked Lobster. — III. Put a lump of butter in a saucepan. Add a couple of teaspoons of flour and cook for several minutes, stirring all the time. Thin to a thick cream with milk. Add to this sauce the chopped lobster meat. Take 1 good-sized lobster or 2 small ones ; pick out all the meat; chop it fine, add a pinch of cayenne and a little lemon juice. Put this in small baking dishes, 1 for each person, and sprinkle with grated bread crumbs. Bake a few moments till brown. Scalloped Lobster. — Prepare the lobster as above. Put in one large baking dish. Sprinkle cracker dust over it and bake brown. Serve with hot rolls for luncheon or tea. Lobster a la Bordelaise. — Open carefully 1 large lobster ; cut the claws into 4 pieces each ; split the tail into halves and cut each half into 3 pieces. The body and the small bits of lobster may be served at another time for bisque lobster or for deviled lobster. Put 2 SHELL FISH. 89 tablespoonfuls of butter into a saucepan ; allow it to brown carefully without burning ; add 2 tablespoonfuls of flour ; brown again ; take it from the fire and add a pint of good chicken stock ; stir constantly now until it boils ; add a tablespoonful of chopped ham and 1 of onion, a sprig of parsley and cloves ; put the sauce on the back of the stove and cook slowly for 10 minutes; strain; add 6 fresh mush- rooms, peeled and cut into quarters, and the lobster ; put it over hot water and cook for 30 minutes. Then add a teaspoonful of salt, a half saltspoonful of pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry, or the same amount of lemon juice. Fricassee Liobster. — Chop the meat of a boiled lobster. Put 2 tablespoonfuls of butter into a saucepan and add 2 tablespoonfuls of flour and mix over the fire without browning. Now add 1 pint of milk and stir constantly until boiling. Add teaspoonful of salt, half teaspoonful of pepper. Pour this over the lobster, which should be in a double boiler. Allow it to stand over the fire until the lobster is thoroughly hot. Then take from the fire and add the yolks of 2 eggs and tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley, and it is ready to serve. This is delicious. Lobster Chops. — Put 1 large tablespoonful of butter into a sauce- pan, and when it bubbles stir in three tablespoonfuls of flour. Stir until the flour is cooked, and pour in a cup of cream, or rich milk, and 2 cupfuls of boiled lobster (fresh or canned), cut into dice. Stir till scalding hot, take from fire, and when cool add beaten yolks of 2 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of sherry wine, one-half grated nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste. When the mass is cold form into chops that are pointed at one end, roll in beaten egg; then in cracker crumbs ; fry in a wire basket in boiling fat. Drain well ; put a claw into the end of each chop. Serve on a folded napkin. Garnish the dish with parsley. Canned Lobster, To Cook. — Drain the meat thoroughly, then spread it upon a platter, and pick out the coral. Rub the coral smooth and mix it with the braided yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs ; mince the lobster meat fine. Make a batter of milk and flour and 1 or 2 eggs; beat all the lumps out of the flour, and add the lobster and coral to this, season with salt, red pepper and a little lemon juice. You need flour enough to make a batter stiff enough to hold the meat in shape. When formed into round cakes and fried in hot but- ter they are very nice. 90 SHELL FISH. Liobster Chowder. — Take one boiled lobster weighing 4 pounds and cut the meat into small pieces. Roll finely 6 crackers, add 1 cup of butter, salt and a little cayenne pepper. To this add 3 pints of milk and 1 of water. Stir in the chopped lobster, boil two or three minutes, and serve; a smaller quantity can be made. Potted Lobster. — This preparation must be made of a fine hen lobster when full of spawn. First boil the fish thoroughly, then allow it to get cold ; pick out all the solid meat, pound it in a mortar, and add slowly by degrees a very little finely-pounded mace, a good dash of cayenne pepper, and salt to taste. While pounding throw in 1 or 2 small dice-like pieces of butter ; when the whole is well mixed and beaten to the consistency of a paste, press it down into a pot, pour clarified butter over the top and cover with damped bladder. The spawn must be well washed, dried on a cloth, and pounded with the meat ; this gives color to the whole. Lobster Mayoiiaise. — Put the lobster in a well-salted, boiling water, and cook 20 minutes. Remove the meat, leaving the shell as whole as possible ; cut the meat in small dice and set away in the refrigerator. Make dressing of the yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs, mashed to a paste, and add salt and red pepper and a pinch of mus- tard, a tablespoonful of vinegar and the same of sweet or olive oil ; work this together, one ingredient at a time, until it has the con- sistency of good cream. Mix dressing and meat together by shaking. For a set piece, fill the shell and place on table. If there is a spawn attached to the lobster, cook it as it is ; remove afterwards and add it to the dressing. Lunclieon Lobster.. — Mince the lobster quite finely. Make a salad dressing of oil, mustard, salt and a very little vinegar, well mixed with the hard-boiled yolks of 3 eggs, and then thoroughly stir into the lobster. Make into round balls as large as small oranges and place in the oven till well heated. Before sending to the table lay each ball carefully on a lettuce leaf and fill a platter in this way. Lobster a la Newburg-. — Four pounds lobster, yolks of 3 hard- boiled eggs, one-quarter pound butter, one-third cup cream. Mash yolks fine with 2 tablespoons cream, rub butter smooth with 1 large tablespoon flour and put in a farina boiler ; when butter is melted add cream, and stir until scalding hot ; add yolks and lobster, season with salt and red pepper, and stir gently until heated through. Serve SHELL FISH. 91 at once. Some like one-quarter cup of sherry wine added after cook- ing. Canned lobster can be used. In this case drain carefully from oil. Lobster Farcie. — Make a very rich drawn butter by adding to a full pint of boiling milk 2 heaping tablespoonfuls of flour rubbed smooth with a quarter of a pound of butter. Stir till thick, then add the meat of 2 medium-sized lobsters chopped quite fine, and a can of French mushrooms drained from the liquor and chopped. Season highly with salt, red pepper, mustard and mace. Mix all thoroughly and let it stand for an hour. Fill into the shells of the tails and the backs. Sprinkle crumbs over the top, dot with butter and bake a nice brown. Serve in the shells and garnish with parsley and slices of lemon. Wipe over the outside of the shells with olive oil, to help preserve the color. Curried Lobster. — Cut up the meat of a lobster in small pieces, season with salt and a dash of cayenne. Fry a slice of pork brown in a saucepan, or three tablespoonfuls of butter. Remove the pork (if pork is used), add two tablespoonfuls of flour and a small tea- spoonful of curry powder. Stir the mixture until it is brown; then gradually add a cupful and a half of stock and season with salt and pepper. Add the lobster and cook six minutes longer. Place small pieces of crisp toast upon a warm dish and pour the curry upon them. Garnish with triangles of toast and bits of parsley. If the flavor of onion be liked, fry a small onion in the butter before adding the flour and curry powder, but in this case strain the sauce before the lobster is put with it. To give the dish an Eastern flavor mix 1 teacupful of hot boiled rice with 1 teaspoonful of curry powder, and turn over the curry. Stewed Lobster. — Pick the meat from 1 large or 2 small lobsters in large pieces. Boil the shells for 20 minutes in a pint of water with a blade of mace and a few whole peppercorns. Strain the liquor. Mix the coral and the fat of the lobster with a few spoonfuls of melted butter, a wine glass of -white wine and the juice of half a lemon strained. Put in the pickled lobster, boil it up and serve. Half a teaspoonful of made mustard is an improvement. The wine can be omitted. Lobster Cutlets. — Season 2 cupfuls of lobster meat, cut in small dice, with salt, white and red pepper; bring to a boil a cupful of cream or chicken stock, and stir into this two ounces of butter rub- 92 SHELL FISH. bed with a tablespoonful of flour ; cook and stir for a minute, and add the lobster; cook several minutes longer, and add two well-beaten eggs and a tablespoonful of lemon juice; spread on a dish to cool, and when cold mould into cutlets, roll in egg, then in crumbs and fry- in hot fat. Serve tartar sauce with these if wished. Lobster Patties. — Prepare boiled lobster as in Baked Lobster HL Put in patty cases ; cover with paste. Leave out a portion of the sauce before baking. When baked, open, pour in the heated sauce that was left, and put back the cover. Serve hot. Deviled Lobster. — Take the meat from a boiled lobster, reserving the coral. Season highly with mustard, cayenne, salt, and some kind of table sauce; stew, put in a covered saucepan, with just hot water enough to keep from burning. Rub the coral smooth, moisten with vinegar until thin enough to pour easily, and stir into the saucepan. Let boil up once; stir in a tablespoonful of butter; let boil up again and serve. Canapes of Lobster. — See Canapes of Crab. Clams. To Open Clam Shells. — Wash the shells and stand them on the hinge end in a bake pan. Put a few spoonsful of boiling water in the pan ; set the pan in the oven until the shells part, when they may be easily opened and cooked as required. Clam Chowder. — For clam chowder cut the soft parts from a quart of hard-shell clams of the large, tender variety called in some sections " cherry-stones." Chop fine the hard parts, put them over the fire with water to cover and cook till tender. Meantime make ready 2 onions, peeled and sliced, G potatoes peeled and diced, a pint of tomatoes peeled and cut small, and half a pound of pilot biscuit or crackers soaked in milk. When the chopped clams are tender take them out of the kettle and put in the above ingredients in layers, adding also the soft parts of the clams as well as the boiled portions, and seasoning each layer with salt, pepper, thyme, savory and sweet marjoram ; entirely cover with cold water, and cook until potatoes and onions are done. Clam Chowder. — II. One quart clams ; strain and save the liquor; cut off the black part, or stomach, and do not use ; chop the remain- ing hard parts rather small ; fry from one large slice fat salt pork cut SHELL FISH. 93 into dice with half onion sliced, and when well done strain into kettle and add clam liquor, 2 cups sliced (or cut into quarters) potatoes ; cover with hot water, add salt and pepper to taste ; cook about 20 minutes ; add the chopped clams and a cup of cream if you have it, and then thin down with milk till you have about 3 quarts in all, or till it tastes right, not too " clammy;" let it come to a boil and serve very hot in hot soup plates with pilot bread or crackers. Coney Island Chowder, with Thyme. — Take 3 middle-size potatoes, cut up as small as you like, put in 3 pints of water and boil 10 minutes; put in 1 quart of clams and 1 cup of canned tomatoes, boil five minutes longer, then skim ; now take a slice of salt pork and cut in dice, fry out and put scraps in chowder; in the remaining fat fry out 2 large sliced onions, light brown; turn all in chowder and boil 10 minutes longer; season with pepper, salt and a heaping teaspoonful of thyme, and, just before serving, break in common crackers. Canned Clam Chowder. — Make after any of the above rules from canned clams. If they are perfectly fresh, the result will be sat- isfactory. Cream of Clams. — One pint of water, 1 pint of cream, 1 quart of milk, about 50 large clams, 4 tablespoonfuls of butter, 4 tablespoon- fuls of flour, \y^ teaspoonfuls salt, one-eighth teaspoonful cayenne, 1 teaspoonful onion juice, or a tablespoonful of finely-minced onion and a slight grating of nutmeg. Wash the clams, and, after putting them in a stew-pan with the water, place on the stove. When the liquid begins to boil skim it. Cook for five minutes, then strain the liquid into a bowl. Put the clams in the chopping-bowl, and mash as fine as you can ; then rub through a sieve as much of the mass as possible. Put the strained liquid and the clams on the stove to keep hot. Beat the flour and butter together, and gradually pour the hot milk upon the mixture. Return it to the double-boiler, and cook for five minutes. Add the salt, pepper, nutmeg, onion-juice, meat- extract, clams and liquor, besides the pint of hot cream. Cook for 5 minutes, then serve. Cream of Oysters and Clams. — Wash and chop 1 pint of oys- ters; also wash 1 pint of clams; remove the soft part, and save to add to the soup at the last. Chop the hard parts, heat slowly the chopped oysters and clams to the boiling point, and strain through a 94 SHELL FISH. cheese-cloth. Scald a quart of milk with a slice of onion, a blade of mace, a sj)rig of parsley and a bit of bay leaf. Remove the season- ings, and add the milk to the stock, and thicken with 3 tablespoon- fuls each of butter and flower, cooked together. Season with salt and pepper ; add the soft part of the clams, cook for one minute, and serve. A grating of nutmeg may take the place of the mace, if pre- ferred. Fried Soft-Shell Clams. — Procure freshly-opened soft-shell clams, remove them with a fork out of their liquor on to a soft towel, and, after drying, lay the clams on a dish, dust over with flour; then take each one separately on a fork, dip first in beaten egg, then roll in cracker-dust; lay them thus prepared on a clean board for thirty minutes to dry. Put 1 tablespoonful of butter and 1 of lard in a fry- ing-pan over the fire. When hot put in as many clams as will con- veniently fill the pan. Fry light-brown, first on one side, then on the other; fry the remainder the same way, using more lard and but- ter if necessary. Arrange them nicely on a hot dish, and serve with biscuits and butter, or buttered toast. Fried Clams. — IL Take large clams in the shell (a peck will make about two quarts when removed from shell). Slit the necks lengthwise on one side, but do not cut or break the clam ; keep the clam as near perfect as possible; then wash three or four times in cold water; change water as often; stir with the hand. "The secret is in the washing." Then roll in corn flour, and fry in hot fat, as you would doughnuts. If turned a few times while frying they will not stick together. Do not put too many in the fat at once. If done right they will stand out nice and round, and look more like dough- nuts than clams. Let the fat drain off a little when removing from fat; sprinkle with a little salt; good hot or cold; they should not be all knotted up in shapeless bunches when done ; if they are, it is be- cause they are not washed enough; have the fat hot. Scalloped Clams. — Prepare 25 hard clams ; mix in a dish one-half pint of cracker crumbs moistened with one-half cup of warm milk and one-fourth cup of clam liquor. Add two beaten eggs, a heaping tablespoonful of melted butter and the clams chopped fine. Season highly with salt and pepper. Fill a dozen clam-shells with this mix- ture, sprinkle with bread-crumbs and brown. Or put in one large baking-dish and cover with crumbs and brown. SHELL FISH. 95 Scalloped Clams. — IL Put a layer of potatoes in earthen baking- pan, little salt and butter, next a layer of clams chopped, then a layer of crackers, a little salt and butter; repeat from potatoes until dish is full with crackers on top. Fill with milk enough to cover, cover tight and bake three-quarters of an hour, then uncover for 15 minutes. " Clam Bake " (inland). — This sort of a clam bake can be had in February as well as August, and can be prepared in one's kitchen. The main article is a large, new tin wash-boiler. The ingredients may be all used, or such left out as are inconvenient to obtain. A large party can be served and the repast be partaken of with more comfort than on a windy beach. In the bottom of the boiler place a layer of soft or hard clams, or, better still, some of both. A few of the very large ones are good to give more of a clam flavor to the entire " bake." Put in the clam liquor and one large cupful of water. Then lay over them a large piece of new muslin (well washed). This is to take the place of the sea-weed used in the out-of-door clam bakes, and answers the purpose completely. On the top of this cloth place a layer of potatoes, either sweet, or white, or both. Then another cloth, and then a layer of corn on the cob. In summer fresh corn with a few layers of husk left on, and in winter take the corn that is canned on the cob. Another layer of the cloth. The next ingredient is a layer of chickens cut up into quarters (spring, or very tender fowls must be used). Cut them in quarters. Another layer of cloth. Then a layer of lobsters which have been parboiled. Do not crack the shells until time to serve them. Another layer of cloth, and then a layer of soft crabs, if they are to be had. If not, have hard crabs, or leave this layer out. Cloth again, and then the fish ; sheeps- head, blue fish, or indeed almost any kind. Cut in pieces, and cover with the last layer of cloth. Top the whole off with a layer of little oysters, preferably Blue Points. Then put on the cover of the wash- boiler. Set the boiler on the range over a good fire and leave it there for an hour and a half It will do all the rest itself It can even be done on a gas range. All that is wanted is heat. The steam from the clam juice will cook everything thoroughly. While it is steaming prepare the sauce. This is a very important part of the bake Make plenty of it, for the same sauce is served liberally with each course. The Sauce : This is how to make it: — Melt 1 pound of butter, but be very careful not to overmelt it, for if it becomes a liquid the other 96 SHELL FISH. ingredients will not blend with it. Let it get just to the consistency of molasses, as no flour is used for a thickening. Add 2 tablespoon- fuls of Worcestershire sauce, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom catsup, 2 tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, half a teaspoonful of red pepper and 2 tablespoonfuls of pepper sauce. In serving, take out the courses as they come ; first, if you wish, serving the broth, then the steamed oysters, then the fish, and so on. Leave the boiler on the range all the time, so that the chicken and lobsters may be cooking while the meal is going on. This will be found a novelty for an informal din- ner party. The number of courses here given is 7, but they may be increased or diminished as wished. Roast Clams iii the Shell. — Roast in a pan over a hot fire, or in a hot oven, or, at a " Clam Bake," on hot stones. When they open empty the juice into a saucepan; add the clams with butter, pepper and a very little salt. Clam Pancakes. — Take a pint of the chopped clams ; stir into them a beaten egg and add only sifted flour enough to stick them together ; drop them by the spoonful into the frying pan, which has been well greased with an equal quantity of lard and butter, and cook them as pancakes are usually cooked. Deviled Clams. — Wash them, open with a knife, chop fine, stew in a little of the juice a few minutes ; make a dressing of hard-boiled eggs, chopped ; stale bread crumbs, pepper, a little salt, a little mus- tard; wet with a little cream and mix well together, then return to the half-shells, sprinkle cracker dust on the clams, put a couple of allspice on top of each, and butter, which makes them brown. Bake in hot oven 20 minutes and send to the table on the open shells. Steamed Clams. — Put half peck of clams (first scrubbing the shells well) into a boiler with about 1 pint of water. When the shells open wide, remove the clams and with scissors cut off the heads and cut each clam in two or three pieces ; now take a half pint of the water in which they were boiled and the same amount of milk, put on stove, and when hot thicken with flour to make nice smooth gravy. Add a little butter. Toast 6 slices of bread brown on both sides, lay in platter, spread on the clams, then turn on hot gravy and serve. Baked Stuffed Clams. — One-half peck of fair-sized clams (white shells preferred). Shell them and clean well in cold water, make a stuffing of common crackers, well seasoned with sage; save shells, SHELL FISH. 97 well washed ; place a thin layer of stuffing on shell, then from 1 to 2 clams ; then another thin layer of stuffing, covering with other shell. Do the same until all the clams are thus stuffed. Then place them in a common baking pan ; put into a very hot oven and bake 15 to 20 minutes, when they will be done, taking care not to let the shell turn red, as they will be spoiled then. The liquid from clams should be boiled and adulterated, three-fourths water to one-fourth clam liquid; served with the stuffed clams it makes a delicious drink, seasoned with celery salt. Clams on Toast. — Wash the clams and put them in a kettle with just enough water to prevent scorching. Heat them until the shells open. Remove the clams, being careful to save the liquor, and heat them in part of the liquor, seasoned with salt, pepper and butter. If too strong, put in half as much cream or rich milk. Toast bread carefully, moisten in the remainder of the clam liquor, previously heated and slightly seasoned for the purpose ; butter liberally and pour the clams over this. Before the milk is added it will be neces- sary to boil them gently for a half or three-quarters of an hour. Clam Stew may be prepared in the same manner, using all of the clam liquor and some water. Thicken slightly and use a goodly quantity of butter. Crabs. Scalloped Crabs. — Wash the crabs free from sand and put into a kettle of boiling water, throwing in a handful of salt. Boil 20 minutes to half an hour ; when done take from the water, pick out all the meat, being careful not to break the shells. To every pint of meat put a little salt and pepper ; taste, and if not enough to suit, as tastes differ widely, more is easily added. Grate a very little nutmeg into the meat, and add 1 tablespoonful of cracker (rolled), or fine bread crumbs, 1 egg well beaten and 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. Mix all thoroughly together, wash the crab shells clean, and fill each one quite full of the mixture. Sprinkle fine cracker or bread crumbs over the top and set in the oven to brown nicely. It will take but a few min- utes. Send to the table hot. Deviled Crabs. — Twelve large crabs ; one-half pint of cream ; 2 tablespoonfuls of flour; one-fourth grated nutmeg; 4 egg yolks, boiled hard ; 1 tablespoonful each of salt, butter and chopped pars- 7 98 SHELL FISH. ley ; salt and cayenne to taste, and one-half teaspoonful of mustard. Put the crabs in warm water ; add the salt and put the kettle over a brisk fire. Boil 30 minutes. Take up and drain ; break off all claws; separate the shells ; remove the spongy fingers and the stomach, which is found under the head. Pick out all the meat. Put the cream on to boil, rub butter and flour together, and add to the boiling cream ; stir and cook 2 minutes. Take from the fire, add the crab meat, the egg yolks mashed fine, parsley, nutmeg, salt, mustard and cayenne. Clear the upper shells of the crabs, fill them with the mix- ture, brush over with beaten egg, cover with bread crumbs and put in a quick oven to brown; or better, put them in a frying basket and plunge into boiling lard until a nice brown. Crabs on Toast. — Heat 12 ounces of crab meat in a good and well-seasoned sauce ; spread this mixture on squares of toast, sprinkle with grated Parmesan, dot with butter and set in a hot oven for three minutes. Serve on a hot napkin, garnished with parsley. Fried Soft-shelled Crabs. — Wash the crabs, remove the lungs from both sides and dip into milk, then roll in flour and fry in plenty of very hot frying fat. When of a fine color drain and dress on a folded napkin, and on top arrange a bunch of fresh parsley. Hot Crab. — Pick the meat out of the crab, clear the shell from the head. Put the meat together with a little salt, pepper, nutmeg and butter, a few bread crumbs and a little vinegar, into the shell again. Place in the oven and let heat through, remove, and brown by holding a hot shovel over it. A crab shell will hold the meat of two crabs. Stewed Crabs. — Take out the meat from the shell, put it in a saucepan with butter, pepper, salt, a pinch of mace, or a grating of nutmeg, and a very little water, dredge with flour and let simmer five minutes over a slow fire. Serve hot. Garnish the dish with the claws laid around it. The spongy substance from the sides should be taken off; also the sand bag. Sauted Ci'abs in Butter. — After the crabs have been well washed remove the lungs from each side, roll them in flour and saute them in very hot, purified butter; when done and of a fine color, dress, r.nd to the butter in which they were cooked add some lemon juice ; strrin this butter through a strainer over the crabs and strew chopped pr.rs- ley over thern. SHELL FISH. 99 Soft-shell Crabs a la Maitre d'Hotel. — Clean, wash well and wipe dry some soft-shell crabs ; brush over with melted butter or oil, season with one even tablespoonful of salt, one-half even teaspoonful of pepper ; put them on a broiler and broil over the clear fire about five minutes on each side. Serve at once on a hot dish on buttered toast, with one ounce maitre d' hotel butter spread over. In place of toast six small slices of bread fried in butter may be laid under the crabs. Cauapes of Crab. — Drop 6 live hard-shell crabs into boiling Aj/ater, add 1 tablespoonful of salt, boil 15 minutes; then remove. When cold enough to handle take off the upper shell, extract all the meat ; crack the claws and pick out the meat ; season with one even teaspoonful of salt and a little cayenne pepper ; then measure — there should be a good pint of crab meat. Place a small saucepan, with a tablespoonful of butter, over the fire ; add 2 tablespoonfuls of fine chopped white onions, cook 5 minutes without browning ; add 1 heap- ing tablespoonful of flour, stir and cook 2 minutes ; add half a cupful of white broth, stir for a few minutes longer; then add 1 pint of crab meat, stir and cook 8 minutes. Cut 6 slices from a long-shaped loaf of baker's bread, cut off the crust, and fry light brown in butter on both sides. Spread the crab mixture in equal portions over the bread and set aside. In the mean time melt 1 tablespoonful of butter, add 1 tablespoonful of flour, cook and stir a few minutes ; remove from the fire, add 8 tablespoonfuls of grated cheese ; mix the ingredients and form into round balls of equal size. Place them in the center of the canapes, pressing a little in the center. Put the canapes into a baking pan and bake light brown in a hot oven, which will take about ten minutes ; then remove ; arrange them on a hot dish and serve at once. Parmesan cheese is preferred by many rather than American. Canapes of lobster are prepared in the same way. Oyster Crabs. Fricassee of Oyster Crabs. — These tiny crabs, found now and then in stewed oysters, are now sold by themselves, and are nearly as great a luxury as terrapin, about $3 a quart. For a quart, melt a teaspoonful of butter in a frying pan, and add half a small minced onion, half a bay leaf, a teaspoonful of salt, and a pinch of grated nutmeg, with 1 of pepper. When the onion has fried a little, add a 100 SHELL FISH. tablespoonful of flour and a cup and a half of rich white broth, and let all simmer slowly for 20 minutes. Beat the yolks of 2 eggs, adding the juice of a lemon, and add to the broth, which must not boil after this, but be kept at boiling point ; add now the crabs, and stand on the back of the range for 5 minutes ; then stir in a tea- spoonful of minced parsley and a large one of butter cut in little bits, and serve very hot with thin brown bread and butter. Oyster Crab Pie. — Take 2 quarts of fresh crabs and some of the juice ; set on range to get warm, but not to cook. Rub 2 tablespoon- fuls of butter and 1 tablespoonful of flour smoothly together in a saucepan over the fire. Have a pint of cream ready to add to the paste and pour in gradually while stirring to keep it smooth. Season with a little salt and pepper. While this is preparing have a baking- pan lined with puff paste in oven baking. Put crabs and sauce together in the crust. Then cover with another layer of pastry, wet the top with milk and bake twenty minutes, or until the crust is a beautiful brown. Serve with a cream and lemon sauce, or a little lemon juice in the hot cream. Oyster Crabs ou Toast. — These crabs make a delightful luncheon dish, stirred in a hot saucepan with a little butter and cream, and served on buttered toast. Deviled Oyster Crabs, in Shells. — Take some nicely-washed, medium-sized and deep oyster shells, setting them on a straight baking-sheet. Drain the oyster crabs, season them with salt, black pepper and red pepper and fill the large shells. Strew over them bread-crumbs and grated cheese, sprinkle with butter and brown in a quick oven, serving the shells as soon as done. No sauce is used. Scallops. Fried Scallops. — Pick over and wash quickly, drain between towels, season fine cracker crumbs with salt and pepper. Dip the scallops in crumbs, then in beaten egg and again in crumbs. Fry in smoking hot fat and serve at once. A more simple way, which I often use, is to roll them in Indian meal and fry in hot fat. Scallops in Shells. — Drain a pint of them and toss them, with a tablespoonful of butter, into a saucepan, letting them brown lightly for about ten minutes. Then take them up and chop them fine. Melt a spoonful of butter in a saucepan, add a small onion minced SHELL FISH. 101 fine and brown it lightly. Then add a heaping teaspoonful of flour and stir in slowly a cupful of the liquid drained from the scallops. Season with a teaspoonful of salt, a pinch of cayenne and a little white pepper. Mix with the chopped scallops 4 tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs and the yolks of three eggs, and cook all together for three minutes. Then fill the shells, sprinkle fine bread-crumbs over the top, and dot with bits of butter, and set them in a hot oven to brown for ten minutes. Serve them on a platter with a garnish of green. One whole egg can be used in place of the yolks, but is not quite as nice. Scallops iu Batter. — Save the liquor that is in them, and put the scallops in a colander and pour boiling water on them to cook them through a little. Then take 1 pint of flour, 1 egg, a little salt and pepper and 1 teaspoonful of baking powder, and the liquor saved from the scallops and mix the batter. After it is all mixed dip the scallops in the batter and fry in hot lard. This recipe is for one pint of scallops. Terrapin or Water Turtle. Stewed Terrapin witli Cream. — One-half pint thick cream, 6 eggs, half pound butter, quarter cupful sherry or madeira, quarter teaspoonful mace ; salt and cayenne to taste. Put terrapins alive into boiling water and boil 10 or 15 minutes, or until you can pull off the outer skin and toe nails. Now put them back in fresh boiling water, add a heaping teaspoonful of salt and boil until the shells part easily and the flesh on the legs is tender. Take out, remove under shells until cool enough to handle. Then take them out of the upper shells carefully, remove sandbag and intestines, the gall sacks, which are imbedded in one lobe of the liver. In removing gall sack do not break it, as it would spoil the terrapin. Break terrapin into small pieces. Now add liver, broken up, and all eggs found in terrapin, put into stew pan with the juice or liquor it has given out while being cut. Roll the butter in flour, add to terrapin and stand on moderate fire until heated. Boil the 6 eggs for 15 minutes, mash yolks to smooth paste into 2 tablespoonfuls of the wine. Then add this, the cream and seasoning to the terrapin, let it boil up once, take from fire, add wine and serve. It must never be boiled after adding the wine. Cooks do not use the intestines nowadays ; they are not con- sidered fit to eat. Lemon juice can be used instead of wine. 102 SHELL FISH. Stewed Dijiinoiid Back. — Remove bottom shell, after cutting his head off and bleeding him ; trim all the meat from the top shell neatly and throw whole pieces into salted water. Cut up neatly and put on to cook in hot water, just enough to cover; cook till done. Almost 20 minutes before it is done put in about 2 dozen small new potatoes and 1 of shelot roots ; add half a lemon, 1 glass of sherry, the juice of 1 tomato and 2 ounces of butter. Thicken as cream; remove the lemon in 10 minutes. For a small party serve in shell. Baked Turtle, — Scrape the shell from which the cooked meat has been removed, and wash well in cold water. Mince the meat as fine as possible with a hash chopper. Add to it half an onion, the hard boiled yolks of 3 eggs, a tablespoonful of melted butter, salt and pepper to taste. Have ready some cracker crumbs rolled fine, moisten the mixture with some of the liquid the turtle has been boiled in. Knead into it the cracker crumbs and press whole into the turtle shell. Put in hot oven and bake quickly, garnishing with hard-boiled turtle's eggs. Turtle Soup. — Take 3 or 4 green onions, a bunch of seasoning herbs, cayenne pepper and salt, 1 quart of very strong veal broth, 1 pound of butter, flour, lemon juice, Madeira wine and a turtle. Cut up the meat and let the bones and other parts intended for the soup stew 6 hours, the onions and seasoning being chopped very fine. Use cayenne pepper and salt to taste. Add the liquor to the veal broth ; put in the butter, with enough flour to thicken suffi- ciently ; stir it over the fire 10 minutes and add lemon juice and Madeira to taste. The coarse white parts will require cooking 2 hours. The green fat should be cut into pieces 1^ inches square and simmered in the soup for an hour. Force-meat balls and eggs are served in the soup. Make these of the vealy part of the turtle, minced fine with half a beaten anchovy, a piece of celery boiled tender, and the yolk of a hard-boiled egg. Mix them up well with 2 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs ; season with cayenne pepper, mace, salt and white pepper ; moisten with a little oyster liquor, a lump of butter and a well-beaten egg ; roll them into balls and fry in butter. " TJiis disli of meat is too good for any but anglers, or very honest men." — Walton. Dress fish as quickly as possible after they are taken from the water. Wash and rub the inside with salt. Do not soak in water long, as the flesh is apt to become flabby. Lard and butter in equal quantities is better for frying fish than butter alone. Frozen fish should be put in cold water to draw out the frost. Add a little vinegar to the water in which salt fish is soaked. Soak salt fish in sour milk to freshen them. Pour vinegar over fresh fish to make the scales come off easily. Fish can be improved in flavor by rubbing with vinegar or adding one-half cup of vinegar to the water in which it is boiled. Fish, when prepared for the table, should never be laid double, if it can be avoided, as the steam from the under layer makes the upper layer so soft as to break easily. They must be cooked until the flesh separates easily from the bones. By running a knife in a little way, say under the fins, so as not to spoil the appearance of the fish, this can be judged of All kinds of cooked fish can be served with salads. Lettuce is the best green salad to serve, but all cooked and cold vegetables go well with fish. Whatever the method of cooking, apply great heat at first to sear the outside and prevent the escape of the juices except for a soup or chowder. To scale a fish hold it by the tail under water (which is salted) in a deep pan, and with a small, sharp knife held slant- ing, scrape the scales from the tail toward the head. The scales will come off easier under water and will fall to the bottom of the pan instead of flying about. Wipe the fish on an old soft towel and lay it on a board or a large platler. Cut off the head and tail, and if it is to be broiled split it down the back. This is done by pa'^sing the knife one side of and close to the backbone, from the head to the tail, cutting carefully until the entrails are reached. Remove 103 104 FISH. them carefully and scrape the inside of the fish and all the blood from the backbone. If preferred, the backbone can be removed entirely. Wipe the fish inside and out with a cloth wrung out of salted water, lay it on a dish and keep it in a cool place until wanted. For baking or frying, the fish may be opened down the body. The only secret in boning is to hold the knife close to the bone, scraping away every particle of flesh. To remove the skin, loosen it Fish Scaler. with a knife around the head and pull quickly toward the tail. If the fingers are dipped in salt occasionally it will give them a firmer grip on the slipping fish. This will be done in the market if the purchaser so directs. In freshening salt fish lay it in the water skin-side up. Baking, boiling, frying, broiling and steaming are the standard methods of cooking fish. Broiled Fisli. — Broiling is assuredly the oldest method of cook- ing, and no new one surpasses it. The skin of small or thin fish serves to keep them in shape. Slices of halibut or salmon may be broiled whole, or the skin and bone removed and cut in fillets. Clean and split the fish. Rub a double broiler with suet, lay the fish, flesh eide down, on and set over the fire ; turn until both sides are brown. When done take up carefully on a heated dish, sprinkle with salt and pepper, spread with butter and serve. Boiled Fish. — This is thought to be the most delicate of all, but on account of its slippery skin and gelatinous consistency, it is hard to boil it so that its appearance will gratify the eye. To attain the best results, several rules are to be remembered and observed. First, the fish must be weighed. Second, it must be carefully bound up in thin muslin ; coarse cheese-cloth is excellent for the purpose. Third, the kettle must be large enough to accommodate the fish easily, and the water must be well salted first, or the flakes will have a tendency to separate. Fourth, the water must be at boiling point, but not boiling when the fi'^h is put in, and should be in sufficient quantity to full)' cover it, but not in excess, or the flavor will be washed away. For FISH. 105 Fish Kettle. a large fish, add three tablespoonfuls of vinegar to the water. Fifth, keep the water boihng, and allow 6 minutes to each pound, and if the fish is large, add 6 minutes to the computation ; for instance, make the 36 minutes due a 6-pounder 42 minutes. Never stab a fish with a fork or skewer to find if it is done, but see that the water boils steadily and does not stop for an instant. If the water boils turbulently, the kettle must be moved to a part of the stove where it can have a less fierce heat, as too much agitation of the water will cause it to crumble. A fish boiler is best to use. Serve with drawn butter and hard-boiled eggs sliced. Garnish also with parsley and sliced lemons. Some like tomato catsup poured over the fish, without the eggs and lemons. Frying- Fish. — If the fish is large, cut into small pieces ; if it is small, split it in two pieces, and wipe dry on a clean tea towel. Season with pepper and salt and dip the pieces in corn meal, then fry a nice brown in boiling lard. Be sure to have a good fire, bright and hot and have the lard boiling. Those kinds which are liable to break must be dipped in beaten eggs, then into crumbs. The fat in which fish is fried, whether it be lard, dripping, oil, or butter, must be very hot. All fried fish should be decorated with fried or raw parsley. For frying the fat should be hot enough to put a crisp coating over the fish at once, hotter than for doughnuts or any dough which must have time to rise, but not so hot as for croquettes, since the fish would burn outside before it was cooked throughout. Drain on soft paper and serve with acid sauce. In the recipes for cooking certain fish, skinning them is insisted upon. When both sides are treated in this way, it is nearly impossible to keep ^^HBHi' 'M them in good shape, but it is only flat fish that are to be pre- pared in this way, and it is entirely un- Lipped Frying- Pan. 106 FISH. necessary to remove the white skin from the under part. That will hold the flesh in place after the dark, coarse skin of the top part is pulled off, if they are carefully handled. When put in the pan of boiling fat, the bare or skinned side of the fish must be laid downward first, after being dipped in egg and bread or cracker crumbs. When turned up after a little trial by lifting with a broad knife-blade, it will show a golden-brown crispness that is very stimulating to even a jaded appetite. A large quantity of fat is usually necessary in frying fish. With the exception of very oily fish, such as mackerel or her- ring they require much less fat, and should be dipped in egg and bread crumbs. Baked Fisli. — Procure a fish of three or four pounds, season with 1 heaping tablespoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful pepper. Rub the seasoning well in and outside the fish ; place the fish with two sliced onions, on a large dish ; sprinkle over the juice of one large lemon ; cover and set aside for 1 hour. Then lay the fish in a baking pan with 4 thin slices of pork under it, and 3 slices of pork on top. Pour 1 tablespoonful of melted butter over and bake 45 minutes. Serve in a hot dish garnished with lemon cut into quarters, and parsley. It can be baked without the onion or lemon, but these improve its flavor. If salt pork is not at hand, grease the pan thoroughly with lard and lay a sheet of nice brown paper, cut to the size of the pan, in the bottom. Grease the paper thoroughly and lay the fish upon it. Baked in this way, it can easily be taken from the pan without breaking it at all, and the trouble of cleaning the pan afterwards, which is not a little when the baking is done in the usual manner, is entirely avoided. Baked Fish, Stuffed. — Select a fish of medium size, wash well, wipe dry, sprinkle with salt. Mix 1 teacup of stale bread crumbs, a tablespoonful of melted butter, half teaspoonful of salt, quarter tea- spoonful of pepper. Stuff the fish with this mixture. Place a well- buttered tin in the bottom of a baking pan. Lay the fish upon it, dredge with flour, salt and pepper, add a cup of boiling water, place in a hot oven and bake 1 5 minutes for every pound of fish, basting with the gravy in the pan. When done slide carefully into a dish, garnish with slices of lemon and parsley. Or, the following stuflfing may be made : Dried and sifted bread crumbs, bits of butter, pepper and salt to taste, also a very little finely powdered sage, held together with the yolks of two eggs. Some add tomato sauce to the dressing, others FISH. 107 cover the fish with a layer of tomatoes ; still another plan is to stew the tomatoes alone and serve the sauce with the fish after it is baked. Bake according to size of fish in a hot oven until browned. Wrap with string or sew up the fish to keep in the dressing. A thick slice of fish is often baked in milk or tomato sauce. The baked fish with its head left on, although the hollow eyes be well filled with parsley, is at best a ghastly sight. Dainty Baked Fish. — An especially dainty way to bake a fish is as follows : Remove the head and skin, insert a knife close to the backbone and cut away the flesh from side to side in turn, in a long strip or fillet, then scrape off any bits adhering to the bones. Fold over the narrow end of one strip on top, spread with stuffing, place the other fillet above, folding the thin end underneath to give a smooth surface on top, brush over with soft butter and put skewers through both layers to keep them from slipping. Bake as usual. Just before serving brush over with beaten Ggg, sprinkle with buttered crumbs and brown for a moment. Meantime the head and backbone should be covered with cold water and left to cook gently for a half hour or until they fall apart. Strain off the water and thicken for a sauce or save for a soup next day. Fillets of Fish. — Fillets are a little troublesome, but a delicious method of preparing fish. Sole is especially fitted to be served in this manner, but flounders (a cheap fish) furnish an excellent imita- tion of sole. The fillets are made from the layer of flesh on each side of the fish, and each one can be cut in two, thus making four to the fish. A sharp knife is the first necessity. Cut the skin of the fish around the head down to the flesh, and then cut down each side of the broad fin on the back of the fish from the head to the tail. Now begin at the head, loosening the skin with the knife, and pull it off firmly and slowly, using the knife whenever necessary to loosen the skin, which will usually come off smoothly. Both sides of the fish are now bare, and it is easy to remove the flesh. Flatten the fil- lets, after they are cut, by a blow of the potato- masher, and then egg and crumb each one, dropping them into boiling fat, fr}'ing them golden brown, and draining on brown paper a moment before serv- ing. They may be served either with cream sauce, which contains a teaspoonful of minced parsley, or with tomato sauce. Another method is to pour cream sauce over the fillets and bake them in the 108 FISH. oven for 15 minutes, taking care that the sauce does not bake away or burn. Again, the fillets may be cut in long narrow strips, and each one rolled around and fastened in place with wooden toothpicks. Bake in a quick oven for five or seven minutes. Serve with tomato, cream, or some other kind of sauce. To put the fillets in a dish and cover with a sliced onion, three or four sprigs of parsley and the juice of one lemon, and let stand for half an hour, is an improve- ment. Closely cover the dish. When ready to serve wipe dry with a soft, clean towel, dip lightly in flour, then in beaten egg and next in bread crumbs. Fry in hot fat to a delicate brown ; serve on a folded napkin laid on a hot platter. Worcestershire sauce is also excellent to serve with fillets. Tarragon and Tartar sauce also. Frying- Fish. — Fish for frying, after being cleaned and washed, should be rolled in a cloth to absorb the moisture. Cut in neat pieces, dip in beaten eggs and roll in flour or corn-meal. For every 5 or 6 pounds of fish fry a few slices of salt pork to the gravy thus obtained ; if necessary add lard or butter. Fresh fat may be used, but that from the pork gives a better flavor. Brown the fish quickly, then cover the pan and set back to steam and cook through. Plain Gravy. — Remove the fish, rub 2 or 3 teaspoonfuls of flour smooth in a little water and stir into the fat the fish was fried in. Add butter, pepper and salt. If desired, flavor with catsup or lemon juice. Pour the gravy around the fish, or serve separately. Boiled Red Snapper. — This fish is common in the Gulf of Mexico, and is one of the most delicious for table use that the waters of the sea afford. To boil, take a medium-sized fish, cleanse and wash in cold water, tie tightly in a clean cloth, cover well with hot water, to which, for a fish of from 5 to 8 pounds, add one-half cup of vinegar and a handful of salt; boil for 45 minutes, or until the flesh comes readily from the bones. Serve hot with sauce as follows : 1 pint of water thickened with flour; let boil until clear; add salt to season, a little pepper, 1 tablespoonful of butter and 2 hard-boiled eggs sliced. Baked Red Snapper. — Cleanse the fish, and in removing the entrails make no longer cut than is necessary. Stuff the fish with dressing as follows : Take sufficient stale bread to fill the cavity in the head and body, soften with cold water ; take 2 tablespoonfuls of FISH. 109 lard in a saucepan, mince a medium-sized onion and cook brown in the lard; add to the softened bread. Mix well and season with pepper, salt and sweet herbs. Put enough water in the pan to pre- vent scorching and dredge the fish slightly with flour. Serve hot. This dressing will answer for other fish. Baked Kcd Suapper a la Creole. — For a fish of 3 or 4 pounds prepare this stuffing : 1 can of tomatoes, 6 onions chopped fine, 1 cup of dry bread-crumbs, 1 tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce, red and black pepper and salt, plenty of butter. Stuff your fish with this dressing and sew up. Lay it flat in the pan and cover top with the remaining stuffing. Spread butter on this to make it brown nicely. Bake one hour. Mackerel. Boiled Fresh Mackerel. — Fresh mackerel are soaked in salted water with a little vinegar added ; with this exception they can be served in the same way as the salt mackerel. Broiled fresh mackerel is very nice with the same cream or egg sauce. Broiled Spanisli Mackerel. — Split the fish down the back bone, wash in cold water, dry with a clean dry cloth, dust with salt and lay in a buttered wire broiler. Cook the flesh side first. Then turn, make a sauce of 2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter, 1 tablespoonful lemon juice, 1 small teaspoonful salt, one quarter teaspoonful of pepper. Dish up the fish and turn this sauce over it hot. Maitre de Hotel butter is also nice with this. Broiled Salt Mackerel. — Choose a medium-sized mackerel, with flesh thick and white. To freshen suspend by a string or stick through the gills in a jar or bucket of water. Take out of the water 10 or 15 minutes before broiling; dry with a clean towel. Broil on a wire broiler, putting on a little butter during the process. Lay on a warm plate and set in the oven for a few minutes before serving. Maitre de Hotel butter is nice to pour over the fish before serving. Baked Mackerel, Stuffed. — Select a nice fat mackerel, wash, and soak over night. As this is best for lunch, change the water in the morning and keep it in a cold place. One hour before lunch time, take it from the water and clean all the black from the skin. Chop fine 2 pieces of celery, sufficient parsley to make 2 tablespoonfuls ; mix this with half a cup of crumbs. Add 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, a dash of cayenne. Fill this in the thin part of the mackerel, fold it 110 FISH. together, and place it in a baking pan. Dust with pepper, and put in the pan about half a cup of water. Bake in a quick oven 30 minutes. Baste at least twice. Dish and cover with tomato-sauce. Baked Salt 3Iackei-el. — Freshen as before, drain, pour boiling water over the fish, let stand a few moments, then turn off, and put the fish in a long tin, well buttered. Put over it half a cup of sweet cream (rich milk with a little butter will do), pepper and put in a hot oven; let it brown slightly and serve, adding more cream if more gravy is needed. Spiced Mackerel. — Take 6 medium-sized mackerel, clean and cut off heads and tails. Cut across and make 2 parts of each. Then take half a cup of salt, one-third tablespoon of ground cloves, half a tablespoon of allspice, and mix them well together. Rub the mix- ture into the fish, and pack them in a stone jar or bean pot, and cover with pure vinegar. Bake 6 hours in a slow oven. It will keep a year. Halibut. Boiled Halibut. — Wash the fish in cold water, wipe and rub with salt. Wrap in a cloth, put in a fish-kettle or lay on a large plate and put in the bottom of a saucepan. Cover with boiling water, to which add a tablespoonful of salt; let simmer gently 10 minutes to every pound of fish. When done, take up, drain, remove the cloth, turn the fish out carefully on a dish, garnish with parsley. Serve with sauce HoUandaise. Baked Halibut. — Take a piece of halibut weighing 5 or 6 pounds, or less, and soak in salt and water for 2 hours ; wipe dry and score the outer skin ; set in baking pan in a tolerably hot oven and bake for an hour, basting often with butter and water heated together. When a fork will penetrate it easily it is done. It should be of a fine brown color. Take the gravy in the dripping pan, add a little boiling water, stir in a teaspoonful of walnut catsup, the juice of a lemon, and thicken with browned flour ; boil up once and put into a sauce boat. Many cooks sprinkle chopped onion in the bottom of the baking pan before putting in the fish. Baked Halibut Steak. — Cut the fish into nice slices, season with white pepper and a very little salt, and place them in a well-buttered baking dish. Pour over them a wine-glass of strained lemon juice, and let it cook in the oven, covered with a buttered paper, for 15 to FISH. Ill 25 minutes, according to thickness. For the sauce, stir over the fire 1 ounce of butter, with 1 ounce of sifted flour, till well blended, but not browned, then pour to it a gill of boiling water, white pepper and salt to taste, and let all cook together for 8 or 10 minutes, before adding to it the strained liquor from the baked fish. Boil all for about a minute, then strain again and add a small lump of butter ofif the stove. When this has melted, dish the steaks neatly from the sauce around them and serve. Halibut Steak, Stuffed. — Get two shapely steaks, wash and thoroughly dry them with a towel. Make a stuffing from a cupful of crumbs, tablespoonful of butter, tablespoonful of onion juice, or same amount of minced onion, tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and dash of cayenne, quarter teaspoonful of black pepper, just a grating of nut- meg, and teaspoonful of salt. Place 1 steak on the baking pan, lay carefully over it the stuffing, and place above it the other steak. Put small pieces of butter over the top and dust lightly with salt and pep- per. Bake until a golden brown, about 20 or 30 minutes. Serve on a hot platter, with garnish of lemons sliced and fresh red cherries. Halibut Steak, Fried. — Slice thick and lay in cold salt water for an hour. Dry and dip in beaten egg, then in cracker dust and fry in beef drippings. The following lemon sauce is sometimes served with the fish : Lemon Sancc. — Rub a tablespoonful of butter to a cream, adding the juice of a lemon, a little chopped parsley, salt and little pepper; set in the oven until the butter is melted. Halibut Steak, Cold. — A delicious cold dish offish is a " steak" — or slice across the body of the fish — of halibut. Cook this till perfectly tender, hut not to break, in a little butter ; remove it on a dish, and squeeze the juice of half a fresh lemon over it. Stew 2 or 3 large fresh tomatoes in a little water, crush them through a colan- der, season the puree obtained with plenty of salt and cayenne pepper, pour it around (but not upon) the fish ; cut some lemon rind in fine shreds, place an edging of these around the edge of the fish, and put a fringe of green parsley round the edge of the dish. Fillets of Halibut. — Three pounds of halibut, half cup of butter, 1 lemon, 3 hard-boiled eggs. Skin the fish, bone and cut in slices half an inch thick. Cut these in strips about 3 inches long and 2 inches wide. Sprinkle the strips with lemon juice, season with salt 112 FISH. and pepper, cover closely and set away for an hour. Then melt the butter and dip each strip in it. Roll them up, pin each one together with a wooden toothpick, dip in butter once more and arrange them in a baking pan. Dredge with flour thickly, and bake in a hot oven for 20 minutes. Take the hard-boiled eggs, rub the yolks of the eggs, and cut the white into rings. Spread the little fillets of fish upon a hot dish. Remove the toothpicks, turn a white sauce around, not over them. Sprinkle the grated yolks over the fish and garnish with the white rings. Any large fish can be served this way. The eggs can be omitted if desired. For a white, or cream sauce, see " Sauces." Shad. Boned Sbacl. — To bone a shad hold the knife close to the back bone and loosen the flesh from it on both sides ; next lay the fish open and take out the back bone. This exposes the other large bones, when they can be easily removed. Many of the small bones are then visible, and the others can be felt and picked out by the fingers. After all the bones are out remove the skin and cut the fish into pieces, when it is ready for frying or baking, after being seasoned with salt and pepper and dipped in beaten egg and then in bread crumbs. A boned shad cannot be broiled. Some cooks allow the fish to stand half an hour after seasoning it with salt and pepper, sprinkling it with the juice of one lemon, and cover with sliced onion. Dry in a soft cloth and fry in hot lard. Drain on blotting or soft brown paper. Shad Roe. — Boil the shad roe in boiling salted water for 10 minutes, slicing in 1 small onion, and adding a bouquet of herbs. It can then be cooked in several ways. 1st. Escaloped. — Drop it in cold water after boiling, then cut in slices 1 inch thick. Wipe dry and season with salt and pepper. Then put a heaping tablespoonful of butter in a frying pan and on the fire. When so hot that it begins to turn brown, add a level tablespoonful of flour and stir. Now draw the pan back to a cooler part of the stove and gradually add half a pint of white stock-veal or chicken. Season this with a little salt, a grain of cayenne pepper and a tablespoonful of lemon juice. Put the roe in a small escalop dish and pour the sauce over it. Sprinkle a cupful of grated bread-crumbs over the top and strew these with bits of butter. Bake in a moderate oven for 20 min- utes, and serve in the dish in which it is baked. FISH. 113 2d. Baked. — Drop the roe into boiling water, salted, and let cook gently 20 minutes. Remove and drain. Butter a tin plate and lay the drained roe upon it. Dredge with salt and pepper and spread with soft butter : dredge thickly with flour. Bake a half hour, basting frequently with a thin mixture of flour, water, butter, and pepper and salt. 3d. Shad Roe with Green Peas. — Cook in salted water 10 minutes, then place in a deep frying pan containing a tablespoonful of melted butter, and let cook 10 minutes, turning once. Cook a pint of young green peas until tender, with one teaspoonful of sugar, a quarter tea- spoonful of salt, and one-half teaspoonful of butter added. Then put in 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, and let cook 2 minutes longer. Cut the roe in 6 pieces ; put in the centre of a heated dish, and turn the peas over it. Lay the fillets of fish in a circle around, with the edge of one piece overlapping the other. 4th. Boil and slice the roe as in recipe for escaloped roe ; take out, season with salt and pepper, dredge with flour and fry like fish. 5th. Broiled Shad Roe. — Wash the roe, throw them in boiling salted water; allow them to stand for 10 minutes without boiling. Drain carefully, dry, place them on a greased broiler and then over a quick fire for 5 minutes, turning once. Serve with melted butter and chopped parsley. Planked Shad. — Take a long narrow baking pan and put it on the stove with a piece of beef suet to fry out slowly. Split a roe shad as for broiling, dry it well inside and out with a clean white cloth, rub it with quite a little salt, and after rubbing the pan with the melting suet lay the fish, skin up, in the bottom and set it in a hot oven. Let it brown and sizzle till it is pufled in tiny blisters all over the top, and then you can be pretty sure it is done. Slide it out on a hot platter and serve garnished with lemon and parsley. Cooked in this way, all the rich juices of the fish are preserved, and there is not so much odor through the house. Planked Shad. — II. To plank shad properly select a smooth, thick plank a little longer than the fish to be cooked. It must be of hard wood like oak or hickory. Bore holes in plank and have wooden pegs to fit them. Shad can only be cooked in this fashion where an open fire is accessible. Spread the fish on the board and fasten it down by means of the pegs. Rest the end of the plank in a shallow 8 114 FISH. dripping-pan ; put a little water and salt in pan at first, and now place the whole before a clear fire. Baste the fish often with the water in the pan, and add plenty of butter, so that it will be richly seasoned. When nearly done, add a sauce made of melted butter, to which is added walnut or tomato catsup. Many families have handsome planks, so that the shad may be served on them, without risking its removal to a platter. But when this is impossible, slip the fish from the plank to a hot platter, and pour over it a sauce of melted butter and walnut catsup, or any good fish sauce. Serve with sharp and spicy pickles. Baked aud Stiified Shad. — Take a fresh shad that weighs about 2 pounds, clean thoroughly, wash and rub with salt ; make a stuffing by chopping about a quarter pound of fat salt pork and wheat bread crumbs, 1 pint ; season with pepper and salt if needed, and if not moist enough, use a little new milk ; cut gashes in the fish from head to tail, about \}4, inches apart; stuff the fish and wind a twine around it from end to end ; cut very thin strips of fat salt pork, put in the gashes, sprinkle with flour, put a little water in the pan ; bake 1 hour ; after taking the fish from the baking pan you can make a gravy, if you like, with a spoonful of flour and water and a little butter. In- stead of milk to moisten the bread crumbs in the dressing, a beaten egg can be used. Broiled Sliad. — Rub the fish with olive oil, as it gives a delicious flavor, place on a buttered broiler a nicely wiped shad, and broil over a moderate fire. Garnish with slices of lemon. Butter can be used to rub the fish instead of oil. Salmon. Salmon is at its best from the 1st of April until the end of July. The freshness of the fish can be distinguished by the brilliancy of the skin and bloody gills and eyes. If the skin and eyes are dull, the fish is not fresh. Highly colored salmon is the best; whitish fish denotes inferior quality. Boiled Salmon. — Two tablespoonfuls of salt and a teacupful of vinegar to 1 gallon of water, are the proper proportions for season- ing and cooking a 10-pound salmon. The vinegar added to the water will entirely prevent the salmon from breaking and will impart a nice flavor. Some cooks throw in a bay leaf and a sliced onion. Families purchasing a fresh salmon should parboil the portion not required FISH. 115 for the day's consumption and lay it aside in the liquor. Boil it in this liquor when wanted. By this means the curd will be set and the fish will be equally good as at first. Salmon is better put into warm water instead of cold in order to preserve its color and set the curd. It should be thoroughly well dressed to be wholesome. Scale it, empty and wash it with the greatest care, do not leave any blood in the inside that you can remove, boil the salt rapidly in the fish kettle for a minute or two, taking off the scum as it rises, put in the salmon, first trussing it in the shape of the letter S, and let it boil gently till it is thoroughly done. Take it from the water on the fish plate, let it drain, put it on a hot folded fish napkin, and garnish with slices of lemon. Sauce, shrimp or lobster. Send up dressed cucumber with salmon. The custom of serving up rich sauces is unknown in coun- tries where salmon most abound. A little lemon juice, or white wine vinegar added to melted butter, being quite sufficient. Baked Salmon. — Select a thick piece of salmon and put it in the baking dish. Add half a cup of water and a teaspoonful of lemon juice. Cover the pan with another the same size, and bake in the oven for half an hour. Place the salmon on a hot platter. Rub a heaping tablespoonful of butter and 1 of flour together to a cream. Add gradually 1 cup or half a pint of boiling milk. Stir over the fire until it thickens. Take from the fire, add a tablespoonful of minced parsley, the crumbled yolk of 2 hard-boiled eggs, a table- spoonful of lemon juice, half a teaspoonful of salt and a dash of cayenne. Serve the salmon garnished with potato balls and the sauce in a boat. The canned salmon containing whole steaks weighing a pound each may be similarly served. It will require only making very hot in the oven when the sauce is to be made as above. Baked Salmon Trout. — This deliciously flavored game-fish is baked as other fish, but should be accompanied with cream gravy. Bake it slowly, baste often with butter and water. When done have ready in a saucepan, diluted with a few spoonfuls of hot water in which has been stirred carefully 2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter, a scant tablespoonful of flour, and a little chopped parsley. Season with pepper and salt. Heat this in a vessel set within another of boiling water. Add the gravy from the dripping-pan, boil up once to thicken, and when the trout is laid on a hot dish pour this sauce around it, or serve in a separate dish. 116 FISH. Fresh Salmon, Fried. — Cut the slices three-quarter inch thick, roll in flour or dip fiist in beaten egg and then in bread-crumbs. Fry a ligiit-brown on both sides. Season with salt and pepper. This method answers for frying all fish. Fry in a mixture of butter and lard. Some cooks roll in corn meal instead of flour. Pickled Salmon. — Take a fresh salmon, clean, cut in large pieces and boil in salted water. Drain, wrap in a dry cloth and set in a cold place till next day. Then make the pickle which must be in propor- tion to amount of fish. To 1 quart of the water in which the salmon was boiled, allow 2 quarts of the best vinegar, 1 ounce of whole black peppers, 1 nutmeg broken to bits and 12 blades of mace. Boil all these together (cover the kettle to prevent loss of flavor). When the vinegar thus prepared is quite cold pour it over the salmon. Cover closely, put in a dry, cool place, and it will keep many months. It is a delicious dish. A tablespoonful of sweet oil poured over the top of the vinegar will make it keep longer. Broiled Salmon. — Cut it in slices, put in a buttered double broiler. Broil quickly, turning first one side and then the other. When dished, rub butter over it. Salmon Salmi. — Take canned or cold boiled salmon, flake it and add to it an equal amount of shredded lettuce, or the heart of a white cabbage, mix and pour over it the following dressing : 1 egg (beaten), 2 teaspoonfuls sugar, 3 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, one-half teaspoonful salt, dash of pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls salad-oil or melted butter. If preferred, some of the cooked salad sauces may be used. St. Croix Salmon. — Remove the oil, bones and skin, and drain carefully, and break into flakes. Put 2 tablespoonfuls of butter in a hot frying-pan ; when it is melted add the fish ; sprinkle with pepper and salt. It may be allowed to brown, or merely heated through Turn it out on a hot dish, garnish with parsley or water-cress, and serve. Salmon on Toast. — Mince fine the contents of 1 can of salmon, season with salt, pepper, and 5 tablespoonfuls of rich milk, heat and pour over buttered toast. Salmon Pie. — Put in baking-dish one can salmon, season with salt and pepper, cover with mashed potatoes and bake till brown. Salmon Pie. — II. Make a crust like a chicken-pie; remove the skin and bones from a can of salmon ; put a layer of salmon, then one of THE HOUSEWIFE w i-r P o u P o Ah < « FISH. 117 rolled cracker; sprinkle with salt, pepper and a few bits of butter; repeat until salmon is used. Use juice and a little water for moisture; cover with the crust. Serve with green peas and mashed potatoes, and the result is a very good dinner. Canned Salmon, Plain. — Arrange the fish in as large pieces as possible, picking out the bones. Garnish with lemon and parsley, and serve vinegar with it. Deviled Salmon. — Arrange the fish in as neat flakes as possible. Arrange lettuce leaves around the plate, and pour the following dressing over the fish. Dressing. — Yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs, 1 tablespoonful of salad-oil, or melted butter. Rub with the eggs to a smooth paste ; add 2 teaspoonfuls each of sugar and mustard, salt and cayenne to taste ; add a little vinegar, and mix all thoroughly. Cod-Pish. Baked stuffed Cod-Fish. — Wash and wipe dry a 5-pound cod- fish, cut open and fill with dressing as for turkey; stew it up; make incisions across the fish and put small pieces of butter in; baste with salt and flour; cut up small pieces of fat pork and lay in the pan beside the fish ; put water in the pan and bake with a moderate fire 2^ hours; do not turn the fish; when done remove it from the pan ; make gravy with water left in the pan ; add flour and a piece of butter and pour it over the fish ; serve with mashed potatoes, tomatoes and celery. Boiled Cod-Fish. — Take a small cod-fish. Cover the fish with 3 quarts of cold water in which are placed a handful of salt, half a wineglass of vinegar, one small carrot cut in slices, one onion also cut fine, three bay leaves, three sprigs of thyme and a bunch of parsley roots. Let the cod-fish come to the boiling point and simmer slowly, bubbles arising on the edge of the kettle, for 30 minutes. Then lift it out, pull off" the skin, and surround it with new boiled potatoes cut in quarters and tossed five minutes in a tablespoonful of butter, a half teaspoonful of salt and a little white pepper for every six pota- toes. Add a few sprays of parsley over the fish. Boiled Cod-Fisli. — II. Sew up the piece of fish in thin cloth, fitted to shape, boil in salted water (boiling from the first), allow about 15 minutes to the pound. Carefully unwrap and pour over it cream or egg sauce. 118 FISH. Cod a la Flamande. — Have the steaks cut two inches thick ; grease the baking-pan and sprinkle the bottom with chopped onions, parsley, bits of butter and a bay loaf; lay the steaks on this, brush over the top with the yolk of an egg, sprinkle with chopped onion and parsley and pour 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice to each steak. Bake 30 minutes and serve with bechamel sauce. Cod's Roe. — Cod's roe boiled and served with caper sauce is very palatable. Prick the roe and boil in slightly salted water; drain, dish on a folded napkin, and send to the table with the accompani- ment of caper or parsley sauce. Cut in slices one-half inch thick. Cod's Roe Pudding-. — Boil 8 potatoes, mash them thoroughly with cream, salt and a little butter. Boil 1 pound of cod roe for 20 minutes ; take the skin off, mix well with the potatoes, and add 4 eggs, 2 ounces of butter, pepper and salt. Bake for 15 minutes, cover the top of the dish with white of egg, and bake until brown. Serve with oyster sauce, or the oysters may be cut up and mixed with the other ingredients. Salt Cod-Fish. Broiled Salt Cod. — Soak nice white strips of the fish for several hours in cold water; dry them with a cloth, and lay them over clear hot coals on a broiler that has been rubbed with suet. Brown the fish nicely on both sides, remove to a hot platter and lay upon each piece a little fresh butter. A fringe of fried potatoes is a good ac- companiment. Codfish is good boiled, but it should be well soaked and be allowed to simmer for two or three hours. It may be served with drawn butter; hard-boiled eggs sliced on it make a fine addition. Cod-Fisli Stew. — A teacupful of flaked fish, soaked 10 minutes in cold water and squeezed dry. Sinmier in a pint of water for 5 minutes. Add, first, a tablespoonful each of flour and butter, rubbed together; next, two eggs and two tablespoonfuls cream after taking from the fire. Pepper to taste. Creamed Cod in a Potato Case. — Boil and mash 6 good-sized potatoes. Add 1 beaten egg, a gill of milk, a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper. Then beat the potatoes till very light. Pick and scald 1 pound of boneless salt cod, and drain and scald again. Shred and press the fish till dry. Put 1 large tablespoon- ful of butter in a pan with 2 tablespoonfuls of flour and 1 pint of milk. Stir till it boils and thickens. Add a couple of pinches of FISH. 119 pepper. Grease a small pudding mould, and line the bottom and sides with the potato. Add the fish to the cream sauce, and fill in the centre of the mould with it. Then cover over with a thick layer of the potato, and bake till a nice brown. When done, turn it out and serve. Creamed Cod-Fish. — Soak, boil and pick the fish same as for fish- balls. Pour boiling water over it and place on range, where it will just simmer. Put 1 pint (or more) cream or rich milk in double boiler, come to a scald; thicken like cream toast; cook thoroughly and strain on to the drained salt fish ; season and serve. If milk is used 2 hard-boiled eggs cut up and added are nice. Add a little butter with milk. Be sure the fish is tender and not too salt before adding to milk. Serve with hot creamed or baked potatoes. Creamed codfish can also be made with rich milk and no thickening. Put in a lump of butter. It is very nice poured over slices of toast laid on a large platter. Cod-Fisli aud Eg-gs. — Stir together in a saucepan over the fire, until thoroughly mixed, 1 tablespoonful each of butter and flour. Add half a cupful of water and 1 cupful of shredded cod-fish that has been previously freshened. Let simmer 5 minutes, stir in 2 eggs, cook gently until the eggs are sufificiently done, then serve. Add a little pepper. Pour into a deep platter, and serve with a border of new potatoes (either steamed or boiled). When these are out of season, serve in a border of mashed potatoes, beaten until creamy. Salt Fisli Chowder. — Pick in small bits salt fish enough to fill a saucer ; then fill the saucer with cold water and let it stand while pre- paring the chowder; fry 4 or 5 slices of salt pork; be careful not to burn it; when done take out; pare and cut fine 2 good-sized onions; pare and slice 6 potatoes ; put them in the kettle, drain the water off the fish, and put in on top of the potatoes; shake in a little pepper; cover with water ; while it is boiling make a thickening of 2 table- spoonfuls of flour and cold water enough to mix thin ; when the potatoes are soft add the thickening ; put the kettle on top of the stove ; let it boil 2 or 3 minutes ; then add 1 or 2 cups of milk ; stir it very carefully and taste; if too fresh, add a little salt; if not rich enough, add a piece of butter; if any one likes crackers in the chowder, before dishing up take common crackers, split them and dip in cold water quick; lay on top the chowder 1 minute. 120 FISH. 01d-Fasliione«l Fish-balls. — One pint of salt fish after being cooked and picked fine, 1 quart of mashed potato mixed with the fish while warm ; mix with this 3 or 4 slices of salt pork, cut very fine and fried brown in the pan. Mix this with the fish-balls, add a few spoonfuls of milk, beat thoroughly ; form in balls. Add a little lard to the fat in the pan, roll the balls in flour and fry brown on both sides. Cocl-Fisli Balls aud Bacon. — Make after above rule. Fry thin slices of bacon. After this is done fry the codfish-balls in the bacon- fat to a delicate brown. Serve all on one platter, arranging the bacon on the outer edge. Fish Puffs. — One cup cooked codfish (any cold fish will do), 2 cups mashed potatoes, 1 tablespoonful butter, dash of red pepper, yolks of 2 eggs. Stir all thoroughly together ; then add well-beaten whites of the eggs, whip in very lightly, bake 20 minutes in hot oven ; serve at once. Breaded Fish. — Take a half-pint of dried bread crumbs, 1 ^ tea- spoonfuls of salt, a sixth of a teaspoonful of pepper, an egg, 2 pounds of any kind offish, fat for frying. Have the fish free from skin and bones, and cut it into pieces. Season it with the salt and pepper. Beat the egg in a soup plate and dip the fish in it, one piece at a time, getting every part covered with the egg ; then roll in the crumbs and lay on a plate. Have enough fat in the frying kettle to float the fish. When it be- comes so hot that blue smoke rises from the center, put in the fish and cook for 5 minutes. Drain on brown paper and serve very hot. Tartar sauce is particularly good to serve with breaded fish. Planked White Fish. — Place fish with the skin side down on a hardwood plank, brush over with butter and broil. Cook slowly, but do not turn. When done slice tomatoes on the board all around the edge of the fish, garnish with parsley and serve on a platter which will hold the board nicely. The smoke from the board gives the fish a delicious flavor. Baked White Fish. — After dressing, split the fish down the back and remove the backbone. Wipe the fish and dip in beaten egg. This may be applied with a feather. Roll in flour and then in egg again. Lay it in a baking pan that has been previously heated, add dripping or butter, and bake carefully in a moderate oven for 20 minutes. Baste often. If the fish is properly cooked, not scorched, it will be of a rich yellow-brown. Serve with hot fish-sauce. FISH. 121 Salt Wliite Fish. — Place in plenty of cold water over night, or still better, in a pan of sour milk. Scald slightly when ready for cook- ing, lay on a well-buttered plate with bits of butter over the fish, and put it into the oven till the butter melts, after which it is ready for use. Fish Croquettes with Cream Sauce. — One half-pint of milk; 3 teaspoonfuls butter ; 3 even tablespoonfuls flour ; 1 egg yolk ; 1 table- spoonful chopped parsley ; one-fourth of a grated nutmeg ; 2 cups cold boiled fish ; seasoning. Put the milk on to boil. Rub together the butter and flour, then stir them into the boiling milk, stir until a thick paste is formed, add the yolk of egg and parsley. Mix and add the boiled fish ; mix again and add a palatable seasoning of salt and cay- enne, and turn out to cool. When cold, form into cutlets or cro- quettes. Dip first in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs, and fry in very hot butter. Drain on brown paper and serve very hot with cream sauce. Fish Hash. — One pint salt fish shredded fine, 2 bowls potatoes pared and cut small, place in stew-pan, cover with water, boil 25 minutes, drain off" water, place on stove 3 minutes to steam, mash per- fectly smooth ; add 1 raw onion chopped very fine, 1 cup cream, 1 egg well beaten, then beat with spoon 5 minutes ; have hot in frying pan the fat of four slices salt pork, into which put the hash and cook until the edges look brown about 10 minutes, avoid burning, turn carefully on hot platter bottom side up, and serve hot. Fish Stew. — Three to 4 pounds of codfish, cut crosswise (not split in back) in 2 to 2^-inch pieces, pare 4 or 6 potatoes, according to size, slice them half-inch thick ; onion, as much as wanted, slice also (we use 2 if large) ; a deep pan, 1 }4 cups water ; put your potatoes in first, then your fish, then onion, 1 tablespoon salt, a little black pepper, 2 ounces of butter. When the fish is nearly done mix 1 table- spoon of flour in a little cold water and add. Take care it does not burn. Fish Curry. — Chop an onion very small, bruise 12 cloves in a mortar and fry these in 2 ounces of butter. Add 1 tablespoonful of curry powder, stir and then put in any cold fish you may happen to have, nicely flaked. Let it get rather dry, and then pour in half a cup of canned tomato and a little salt ; mix to a paste. Make a puff" paste and line the patty pans with it, and then pour in the curry mixture; cover each patty with the paste and bake a golden brown. 122 FISH. Baked Blue Fish. — Scale, cleanse and fill with dressing as for Baked Jisli^ stuffed. The common stuffing is dried and sifted bread crumbs, bits of butter, pepper and salt to taste. Bass, Pike and Pickerel. — These fish can be treated in the same fashion. Broiled Blue Fish. — Have the dealer of whom you buy the fish clean it and split it, removing the back bone entirely, wipe it nicely, grease your double wire broiler well with salt pork, put the thick part of fish next to the middle of broiler, flesh side down, and cook till a nice brown, then turn and just crisp the skin, as it burns easilw Have ready a platter that will not injure to put in a hot oven, loosen the fish carefully from broiler and slip it off on to platter, skin-side down; salt and butter it well, and place in hot oven for 5 minutes, then leave door open till ready to serve, when slip off on to hot platter for table. Creamed Pike. — Boil a 3-pound fish, pike is best, but any fish will do ; remove the skin and bones, flake it until finely minced, add juice of 1 onion, 1 saltspoon pepper, 1^ saltspoons of salt, 1 tablespoon butter, 1^ cups of milk, 1 tablespoon flour. Put in individual dishes and sprinkle top with bread crumbs which have been stirred in a well-heated pan with butter. Put in oven until light-brown on top. Serve hot. Breaded Bass. — Clean the bass well and soak in salted water. Beat 2 c^^?- with a spoonful of cream ; dip the fish in this and then into crackers rolled fine. Fry a few slices of salt pork, and, removing them, fry the fish in the same dish. Unless these are very large, they are not split, but are fried on each side until brown. Serve with parsley and slices of lemon upon it. Sheepshead. — Choose a small one ; the larger fish are dark in color and apt to be dry and tasteless. Scale, pare and cleanse it well ; truss the head to the body and set to boil in salted water, to which must be added one-half cupful of vinegar. At the end of 40 minutes slide it on to a folded napkin, and serve. Flaked Fish. — Take 1 pint of cold cooked fish, flake it. Make the following sauce: Put 1 tablespoonful of butter in a sauce-pan, rub it to a cream with a tablespoonful of flour. Pour in slowly one-halt cup of boiling water, stirring all the time. Add 1 teaspoonful of mixed mustard, and 1 of anchovy or pepper-sauce, or a dash of cay- FISH. 123 enne pepper. Then stir in 1 cupful of rich rnilk. Add the flaked fish, heat well, and serve. A nice breakfast or lunch dish. Fi'iecl Trout. — Clean, wash and dry the fish, roll lightly in flour and fry in butter or clarified dripping. Let the fat be hot. Fry quickly to a delicate brown, and take up the trout the instant they are done. Lay for a moment upon a hot-folded napkin to absorb what- ever grease may cling to their speckled sides. Then range them side by side on a heated dish, garnish and send to the table. Use no sea- soning except salt, and that only when the fish are fried in lard or unsalted dripping. Fish Souffle. — Take fish left from breakfast, bone it thoroughly; put with an equal quantity of mashed potatoes, add a half-cup of milk gradually; then season with a small saltspoonful of salt and one-third saltspoonful of pepper; stir in 1 beaten egg. Put in a buttered dish and set in oven until it becomes very hot ; then beat the white of an- other egg very stiff and stir into the yolk, beaten with salt and pep- per. Heap over the fish and brown in the oven. Serve. Fish Force-meat Balls. — Take a little uncooked fish, whatever variety is to be served. Chop it fine with one-third as much raw salt pork. Mix it with a beaten egg, a few bread crumbs, and season the whole with pepper, salt, mace and nutmeg. A little catsup may be added ; flour the hands and make it into small balls, and fry in hot dripping to a delicate brown. Serve with fish. Broiled Haddock with Tartar Sauce. — Prepare a haddock weighing about 2j4 pounds, with the bone removed and split open ready for broiling. It should be washed by wiping it with a cloth wet in salt water, and dried with a clean towel. Spread with soft butter, and broil it over a hot, clean fire until it is done; when ready to serve, open the broiler and slide the fish on the platter with the flesh side of the fish uppermost. Spread with tartar sauce and garnish with slices of lemon and parsley. Fillet of Haddock — Procure a fresh haddock of about 2 or 2^ pounds, remove all the bones and cut the fish into 4 pieces, season with one-half teaspoonful salt and one-fourth teaspoonful pepper, sprinkle over the juice of 1 lemon, lay the fish in a covered dish with 1 sliced onion, cover and let stand 1 hour; then wipe the fish dry, dust with flour, dip each piece separately into beaten egg, cover with fresh rolled crackers, and fry light brown in butter and lard mixed; 124 FISH. lay the fish on a hot dish, spread a little maitre d'hotel butter over each piece, and serve. Smoked Haddock. — Skin smoked haddock, put in the oven and bake until it looks dry, then take up and put on a platter and put bits of butter over it, set back in the oven until the butter has melted, then serve. Turbot a la Creme. — One pint of cold fish chopped very fine. Take 1 large spoonful of butter, melt in saucepan and stir into it 2 spoonfuls of flour until smooth. Add 1 pint of milk, scalded, stir- ring well until it thickens. Season with one-half teaspoonful of onion juice, one-half teaspoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful chopped parsley, a dash of cayenne pepper, one-half teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce. Stir into fish, and put in shells or small china dish, covering the top with bread crumbs stirred into melted butter. Brown in oven 10 minutes. Fried Smelts. — Clean, wipe dry; put the tail in the mouth, fasten with skewer; season with salt and pepper; beat an egg with 2 table- spoonfuls of water; dip the smelts in flour, then in egg, then in cracker crumbs until well coated; fry in deep fat for 5 minutes; drain. Serve on a platter on which is laid a fringed napkin. Decorate with sprigs of parsley and bits of lemon. If liked, serve with a mayonnaise sauce. Deviled Shrimps. — Open and wash 1 can of shrimps, put half pint of milk over the fire, add half pint of bread crumbs, stale, not dried ; cook a moment, take from fire and mix in a teaspoonful salt, a quarter teaspoonful pepper, a dash of cayenne, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a teaspoonful onion juice, and the chopped hard- boiled yolks of 3 eggs. Mix and add shrimps. Fill this in shells or individual dishes, cover with crumbs, dot with bits of butter and brown in a quick oven. Creamed Shrimps. — Open and wash 1 can of shrimps. Drain. Put 1 tablespoonful of butter and 1 of flour in a saucepan ; when i^iclted, add half pint of milk, stir until boiling ; add 1 tablespoonful silt, half of pepper, and the shrimps. Stand over the tea-kettle for 20 minutes and serve. Shrimps on Toast. — Thoroughly dredge 1 pint of shrimps with flour. Fry in boiling lard. A wire frying basket is most convenient for this. Drain them in a sieve, or on a piece of blotting paper. Season with pepper and a sprinkling of lemon juice, and lay them ORDERING LUNCH FROM THE MENU CARD PREPARING FOR THE DINNER PARTY FISH. 125 closely on pieces of fried bread, or daintily buttered toast. Surround with a border of parsley. Bi'oiled Sardines. — Drain the sardines for 2 hours on a clean piece of blotting paper. Nicely toast thin slices of bread ; butter them and arrange on a warm platter. Broil the fish over a clean, bright fire, and serve them on the toast. Deviled Sardines on Toast. — Take the sardines from the box and drain all oil from them. Carefully skin and split them open. Prepare delicate slices of crisp toast, lay the sardines on these, sprinkle with cayenne and a grating of cheese. Put in the oven and leave only until heated through, as the toast should not be too dry. Serve at once. They can be served without the cheese. Fish Cliowder. — Take a cod weighing about 10 pounds. (Other fish will do, but cod is best.) Have it cleaned. Cut it in slices an inch thick. Cut 1^4 pounds of fat, salt pork in thin slices. Slice 16 or 18 potatoes thinly. Take a large kettle, put in the pork, fry it out, and add to it 3 pints of water. Put in a layer of fish, then a layer of potatoes. Sift over all 2 tablespoonfuls of salt, 1 teaspoonful of pepper, and a little flour ; then the pork cut in strips ; then another layer of fish and the remainder of the potatoes. Fill the pot with water until the whole is covered. Put over a hot fire and let boil 25 minutes. Have ready a quart of boiling milk and 12 or 14 soda crackers. Put these in and let boil five minutes longer. Serve hot. Delicious. Add a couple of onions sliced when the flavor is liked by the guests. Brook Trout. — These are very delicate fish. Clean, wash and dry them ; split to tail ; season with salt and pepper, and flour them. Fry in salt pork drippings, or in a mixture of lard and butter. Let the fat be very hot, and fry quickly to a delicate brown on both sides. Lay side by side on a heated platter and garnish with parsley or celery. They are often served with their heads on, and sometimes crisply-fried slices of salt pork are sent up with them. Potted Fisli —Cut a fish in conveniently-sized pieces, rub salt on each side, place them in an earthenware crock, sprinkling in pepper whole, and other whole spices, allspice, cloves, mace, between each layer and cover with good cider vinegar. When the jai is nearly full, tie a paper over and cover this with an earthenware cover. Bake in a moderate oven between 3 and 4 hours. This is delicious, and will 126 FISH. keep 2 or 3 weeks in a cool place. Cod-fish, halibut, chicken tongue and ham may be prepared in the same manner. Eels. Fried Eels. — Eels can be found in market ready skinned for cooking. Split them lengthwise and remove the bone. Cut the strips into 3-inch lengths; dredge with salt and pepper; dip each piece in egg and then in cracker meal. When the lard is hot drop them in and fry about 5 minutes. Garnish with parsley and serve with potatoes. Eel Stew. — Cut the eel in 2-inch pieces. Put in a sauce-pan with water enough to cover. Let stew ten minutes ; then throw in pota- toes cut in dice ; carrots sliced, and 2 smalls onions also sliced. Let cook until done. Thicken with a very little flour and one egg beaten. Let boil once or twice and serve at once. Use no butter, as the eel abounds in fatty substances. Broiled Eels — Eels, if very large, are best split open, cut in short pieces, seasoned with salt and pepper, and left standing several hours, after which they may be carefully broiled. Butter the bars of the gridiron to prevent scorching. Baked Eels. — Eels are very tempting, cut in small strips and laid in a deep dish with bits of salt pork. Season with salt and pep- per. Cover well with bread-crumbs and bake half an hour. Eel Cliowder. — For two persons : Take 1 pound eels, cut up and cover with 1 quart cold water, 1 tablespoonful salt; let boil 3 minutes; skim out; take a frying-pan and put 2 slices fat salt pork cut in dice and fry out a little; then 1 onion, medium size; cut fine and cook with the pork 2 minutes ; pour all into a porcelain kettle and add the water the eels were boiled in; 3 medium-sized potatoes cut in dice; put in and boil about 5 minutes; pick the eels from the bones and put in when potatoes are done; heat 1 pint milk in separate dish (be sure the milk will not turn and spoil chowder); season with more salt if needed ; pepper and butter to taste ; remove all from fire and pour milk in ; serve at once ; this is very rich ; if oyster-crackers are heated in the oven 5 minutes before serving they are nicer for stews. (For all kinds of fish sauces see department of " Sauces and Gravies." For fish " salads " see department of " Salads.") To select poultry, choose those that are fresh and fat. To deter- mine whether they are young, try the skin under the wing or leg; if easily broken, it is young : or turn the wing backwards, and if it yields easily, it is tender; or press the lower end of the breastbone; it it bends to the touch the fowl is young, as in a young fowl this lower tip is not yet bone, but a gristly substance. Moreover, there is a simpler and better test, which applies to all undressed fowls and game. When they have been killed for a long time, the eyes are sunken. Choose a yellow-skinned fowl, and a hen bird is preferable, as having the finer flavor, and being more profitable on account of their shorter, broader shape, thus giving more meat in proportion to the weight. The hen turkey is especially fine for boiling. Chickens only should be scalded. Other fowls and game should be picked dry until the feathers are removed. Singe to remove the dozvn and hair. Chickens or fowls should always be purchased dry picked. Though they do not look as plump and full as the scalded poultry, they are jucier and sweeter. Giblets of a fowl are the neck, pinions, gizzard, heart and liver; to this list some cooks add the head and feet. All kinds of poultry and meat can be cooked quicker by adding to the water in which they are boiled a little vinegar or piece of lemon ; a piece of soda (baking), the size of a pea, will answer the same purpose. A tainted fowl will lose the bad taste or odor, if cooked in this manner; if not used too freely, no taste will be ac- quired. One tablespoonful of vinegar will usually prove sufficient. In roasting or boiling whole any fowl, truss it, which means to draw the thighs close to the body, cross the legs at the tail, and tie firmly to the body with twine, which is removed before servmg ; or, pass the legs through a slit in the skin, near the tail. Skewer the wings close to the body. To broil, split the body down the back and lay it open. In cutting up fowls for fricassee, do not break the bones ; 127 128 POULTRY. cut the joints. Fowls with white meat should be well cooked ; with dark meat, if the individual taste prefer, they may be slightly under- done. As a rule, however, fowls should be well done. In roasting a chicken or small fowl, there is danger of the legs browning, and becoming too hard to be eaten. To avoid this, take strips of cloth, dip them in a little melted lard, or even just rub them over with lard, and wind them around the legs. Remove them in time to allow the legs to brown delicately. Again, when roasting a chicken, first cut off the " drumsticks " and lay them in the pan beside the fowl ; when done they will be tender and juicy, instead of being dry, tough and scorched, as they usually are. None of these plans will be necessary, however, if one has a regular roasting-pan. Even two pans of the same size make a very fair substitute, by using one as a cover for the other. Turkeys should be bought with white meat and black legs. As they advance in years their legs get red. Chicken turkeys are one of the most esteemed luxuries in the market, and whether they are best roasted and stuffed with chestnuts and sausages, so that the crisp skin is fairly bursting with savoriness, or boiled with a celery sauce, so that each mouthful fairly melts in the mouth, epicures find it hard to decide. Steam or parboil an old fowl before roasting, not adding stuffing until it goes in the oven, but putting a few sticks of celery inside to flavor it. To test whether a fowl is done, slit the skin a little between the leg and body with a sharp knife, and if the flesh there be still raw looking, the bird is not cooked enough. To Dress Poultry. — The manner of preparing chickens and turkeys is the same, except that with turkeys the sinews should be drawn from the legs. This is accomplished by cutting the skin round at the joint where the foot unites with the drumstick and twist the two pieces a little to bring out the white tendons. There are a few in front and a large bunch at the back of the legs inclosed in a thin layer of muscle-like membrane that makes them look like one large muscle. Scrape off the thick layer and divide the tendon into its small parts, and they may be drawn out one by one by passing a fork or skewer under them and pulling vigorously. The despised drumstick is now a dainty piece of dark but tender meat, which may even be breaded and cooked by itself as a specially choice dish in various POULTRY. 129 ways. Even where it is served with other cuts, fricassee, stew, roast or broil, the sinews should always be removed. Pick the fowl carefully, singe by twisting a newspaper, not too tightly, and letting the flame flare up out of a hole on top of the range. Turn and re- turn the fowl over this, and the result will be most satis- factory. To draw the fowl, make an incision at the lower part of the breast bone. Cut off the oil-bag and remove the en- trails, preserving heart, liver and gizzard. Carefully remove the gall- bag from the liver ; if it should be broken, it will im- part its intense bit- terness to all the Improved Roaster and Baker. organ. Make an incision through the thick part and first lining of the gizzard, peeling off the fleshy part. Clean the heart, and throw them all into slightly salted water. Cut off" the feet at the first joint, and if it be a turkey or a chicken a year old, remove the tendons of the drumsticks according to directions given above. Cut a slit in the neck and remove the crop and the wind-pipe and wash the fowl care- fully inside; rinsing in salt water is desirable; cut off the pinions or thumb joints of the wings and the neck and add them to the giblets. Draw the skin of the neck together and tie. Glaze for Cold Poultry or Meat. — Meat and poultry, to be served cold, may be very much improved in appearance by being glazed. The process is very simple. An excellent glaze maybe made of half an ounce of gelatine dissolved in a pint of water, and flavored as well as colored with extract of beef. To be successful the meat must be perfectly cold before the glaze is put on, and the first coating 9 130 POULTRY. should be allowed to dry before the second is applied. The glaze must be well melted and warm and applied with a brush. Turkey. Roast Turkey. — Select a young gobbler, as a hen turkey is not as finely flavored, and to heighten this rich flavor have it dry picked. If the turkey has been carefully drawn, wipe out the inside thoroughly with a damp cloth. Washing with much water extracts the delicate juices. If not very tender, par boil for an hour before roasting or stuffing. After the turkey has been filled, not too tightly, with the kind of dressing decided upon, sew up with twine, draw the legs firmly against the body, fold the wings under the back and tie all firmly together with clean cotton cord. Grease the bird well with butter, place it in a hot oven to sear quickly to prevent the juices escaping during the roasting. Some cooks save a piece of the turkey fat, and fasten that with wooden tooth-picks over the breast bone. When seared, add a pint of boiling water to the pan and baste frequently. Twenty minutes to the pound is the usual length of time allowed for roasting. Serve with giblet gravy, and cranberry, plum, or currant jelly should always go with it. Sweet potatoes are a suitable vegetable to go with it. The old Virginia style of sur- rounding the turkey when dished with small, fried sausages no larger than a dollar, interspersed with tiny cucumber pickles, still finds favor with a conservative few. Small link sausages are also used for garnishing. Giblet Gravy. — Boil the giblets in salted water; when done chop fine and return to the water in which they were boiled. After the turkey has been lifted to its hot platter, skim the grease from the gravy in the roasting pan, turn in the chopped giblets, thicken with browned flour, let boil, add a spoonful of lemon juice and serve. Tvirkey with Oyster Dressing-. — An oyster dressing is consid- ered by all lovers of the bivalve a great addition to this king of birds. Add to one-half loaf of stale baker's bread one-half cupful of melted butter ; season with salt and pepper. A couple of stalks of celery chopped fine are an addition. Strain one quart of oysters carefully from the liquor, stir into dressing and moisten with half of the oyster liquor, adding enough water to make the right consistency ; do not make a paste of it. Fill the turkey with this mixture, sew up, butter POULTRY. 131 the breast or fasten on a piece of turkey fat, baste frequently with the remainder of the oyster hquor; if there is not enough, weaken it with a Httle water. Roast according to first rule for turkey. Some cooks bind this dressing by mixing in a beaten egg, and use milk for moist- ening instead of water. Sometimes, where oysters are scarce, a couple dozen fresh oysters finely minced may be stirred into the dressing, simply as flavoring, and the moistening done with water, or water and milk. Where an oyster dressing is used the bird may be garnished with large carefully fried oysters. In helping give one oyster with each portion of meat served. Some professional cooks claim that the fat drawn from the bird, melted and used in place of butter, gives a more delicate flavor to the stuffing. Oyster sauce is nice to serve with this roast turkey. Sausage Dressing- for Turkeys. — To 2^ pounds of common crackers, rolled out a few at a time on a bread board until quite fine, add enough of spiced seasoning to give the proper flavor to the dress- ing, a piece of butter, salt, 1 or 2 unbeaten eggs (if you have to spare) and 1 pound of best raw sausage, with the skins removed before adding to the mixture, which is now ready to thoroughly mix with your hands. After this, moisten gradually with clear water, only enough to have adhere lightly together, using a spoon, and do not make a paste of it. This is a delicious dressing, a more toothsome dainty than the fowl itself, and will do for roast meats where a dressing is used. Oltl-Fashioned Stuffing for Turkey or Chicken. — Crumb up 1 loaf of stale bread, mix it with a half cup of butter, 1 egg, salt, pepper, sage and thyme or celery to taste, all brought to the con- sistency of mush by the addition of hot water. Thorough epicures never use sage in dressing, claiming that it injures the delicate flavor of the fowl. Giblet Dressing. — Take the gizzard, heart and liver of the turkey, boil till tender, take them and three-quarter pound of salt pork; chop all together, then take 8 or 10 crackers, roll fine, add to the chopped meat; then add pepper and salt and sage, or prepared seasoning, and wet it up with the water in which the giblets were boiled. This makes a delicious dressing. If an onion flavor is liked, chop up 1 onion and add. Turkey with Chestnut Stuffing. — Most delicious of all is a chestnut stuffing, the rich nuts giving a peculiarly delicate taste to 132 POULTRY. the fowl. To make it shell a quart of chestnuts. Put them in hot water and boil until the skins are softened, then drain off the water and remove the skins. Replace the blanched chestnuts in water and boil until soft. Take out a few at a time and press them through a colander or potato press. They will mash more easily when hot Season the mashed chestnuts with a tablespoonful of butter, a tea- spoonful of salt and a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper. Moisten with a tablespoonful of cream, or a very little soup stock. Mix with a plain dressing of butter and bread crumbs moistened to the right con- sistency with hot water. In filling the turkey do not crowd in the stuffing. Sew up the openings and tie or skewer the legs and wings in shape. Rub thickly with butter and salt and dredge with flour. Place in a dripping-pan, and put half a cup of water in the pan. Use a moderate oven, and cover the turkey with another pan for the first forty minutes. Baste frequently and turn the bird occasionally to expose all parts to the heat. It should be tender and moist and a golden brown all over when done. Garnish the dish with small halls of fried sausage or fried oysters and parsley. Serve with a giblet dressing and cran- berries. Cooked chestnuts are nice to serve with it. Stuffing. — Two dozen fresh oysters, 3 good-sized potatoes, mashed fine; a little pepper and salt and sage — a pinch — 2 ounces of butter, mixed with 2 cupfuls of dry bread crumbs ; a little cream to moisten. Fill the turkey and place it in a covered baking-pan, in which is placed a little nutmeg, 3 bay leaves, some salt and a small piece of onion and 2 cups of water, and roast in a well-heated oven from 3 to 4 hours, according to size. Baste every 20 or 30 minutes and turn twice. Roast Turkey without Stuffing-. — Epicures pronounce the flavor of turkey prepared in this manner superior to that where stuffing is used. Dress in the usual manner ; cleanse by carefully wiping the inside with a soft, damp cloth. Turn the wings against the back at the first joint, and secure the legs closely to the sides with cord. Place the turkey in a sauce pan, dust over it a little pepper, and lay upon the breast a large piece of butter. Bake half an hour in a very hot oven ; do not put any water in the pan, but baste with the oil that fries out and the melted butter. After the half hour cook slowly and steadily, allowing 20 minutes for each pound. Fifteen minutes before removing from oven sprinkle with salt. Serve with giblet grav)-. POULTRY. 133 Boiled Turkey. — Many old-fashioned cooks and some of the new- fashioned consider that the proper way to cook a turkey is to boil it. To do this singe, draw and wash the turkey thoroughly, wipe with a soft cloth and rub the inside with salt. Make a stuffing of 1 quart of bread crumbs, a tablespoonful of butter, salt, pepper and chopped parsley, and mix the ingredients together with an egg. Chop up several stalks of celery and add. Fill the breast of the fowl with some of this stuffing and put the remainder into the body. Tie the legs and wings close to the body and place it in salted boiling water with the breast downward. Boil rapidly the first half hour, then draw it to the back of the stove and cook slowly until tender. Serve with celery or chestnut sauce. If oysters chopped are used in the stuffing, serve with an oyster sauce. Bread sauce is also used by some cooks. An old-fashioned custom was to serve ham or smoked tongue with a boiled turkey. Boned Turkey Roasted. — An easy way to bone a turkey is to slit the skin down the back with a sharp knife and, raising one side at a time, with the fin- gers separate the flesh from the bones until the wings and legs are reached ; unjoint these from the body, and cut- ting through the bone, turn back the flesh and remove the bones. The flesh may be re-shaped by stuffing. Stuff with force-meat made of veal and a little pork chop- ped fine, and season with salt, pepper, sage or savory, and the j uice of a lemon. Sew in shape, and press the wings and legs close to the body, and tie all firmly so that the upper surface may be smooth and plump. Lard the breast with narrow strips of firm, fat pork, and bake until thoroughly done, basting often 134 POULTRY. with salt and water and a little butter. Serve with a giblet dressing, to which has been added a cup of strained tomatoes. Braised Turkey. — Truss and stuff as for roasting, using a force- meat made of minced chicken or veal, mushrooms and sweetbreads, in addition to the bread ; lard the breast with fine, square shreds of fat salt pork ; place the turkey in a stewpan, breast uppermost, with sliced vegetables and sufficient broth to cover. Set it on top of the stove, and as soon as it begins to simmer put into the oven and cook slowly for an hour and a half. Baste occasionally with the gravy. Garnish the turkey with stoned olives and thicken the gravy. Turkey, or Chicken, Jellied. — Two cups of stock, in which an onion, celery and bay leaf have been boiled; one-half pint of water, one-fourth package of gelatine, a little salt and pepper, a tablespoonful of brown caramel ; dissolve the jelly in the stock and water, season with salt and pepper, place some of the jelly in a mould, add pieces of light and dark meat of boiled turkey or chicken, add more jelly, then meat till the mould is full. Serve garnished with celery. To Cook an Old Turkey, or Other Fowl. — No flesh, however tough, can resist five hours' steaming in a close kettle. A monstrous turkey, whose years were beyond comparison, was once accommo- dated with a position in a big wash-boiler, turned for the occasion into a steamer by a structure of coarse wire fence netting near the bottom. After half-a-day spent in this steam bath, it was taken out, disjointed and the pieces dipped in melted butter, dredged thickly with flour and then fried in boiling fat, as doughnuts are fried. An epicure would not have disdained the dish. Scalloped Turkey. — Moisten bread crumbs with a little milk ; butter a pan and put in a layer of crumbs, then a layer of turkey, cut in dice, and seasoned with salt and pepper, then a layer of crumbs, and some add a little chopped cold potato and so on until the pan is full. If any dressing or gravy has been left, add it. Make a thick- ening of one or two eggs, half cup of milk and one-quarter cup each butter and bread crumbs ; season and spread over the top ; cover with a pan ; bake half an hour, and then let brown. Or, instead of the milk to moisten, make a broth from the bones, skimming them out, thicken a little and pour over before spreading over the top dressing. Turkey Rag-out. — An appetizing way of using bits of turkey cold is thus : Take the pieces of turkey and free them from bone and POULTRY. 135 skin; if there are any good-sized pieces, cut them in bits. Put the meat in a sauce-pan with whatever stuffing and dressing may have been left and a tablespoonful of butter. Season hberally with salt and cayenne pepper. Place over the fire and let boil. Turkey, Moulded. — Prepare exactly as above. Place over the fire, and when the mixture boils break into it an egg and stir thoroughly. Turn into a buttered mould, and when cold turn it out into a dish and slice nicely. Turkey Pie. — Cut up fine, put in baking-dish with bits of butter, sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper, pour over one cup of water or stock ; cover with a thick layer of bread-crumbs, over which pour two well-beaten eggs. Bake until brown on top. Turkey Hash. — Cut the remnants of turkey, from a previous dinner, into small pieces. Boil the bones in a quart of water until the quart is reduced to a pint; then take out the bones, and add to the liquor they were boiled in, what turkey-gravy remains or some stock, or a small piece of butter, together with salt and pepper ; let it boil up; put in the pieces of turkey; add what dressing was left, or dredge with a little flour. Let boil again and serve in a hot dish. Ohicken. Roast Chicken. — Dress, singe and prepare for stuffing same as turkey. Stuff with giblet dressing, oyster dressing, old-fashioned or any other preferred dressing as given for turkeys. Fill the breast of the chicken in at the neck until plump and even, draw the neck skin together, tie closely, place remainder of stuffing in at the other end and sew up the incision ; draw the thighs up close to the body, and tie the legs crossed over the tail firmly with twine. Fasten the wings to the body with skewers. Rub the chicken all over with a little butter with the ends of the fingers, and also a little salt. Dredge well, but not too thickly, with flour. Place in your dripping-pan on the raised grate, first placing two of thinnest slices of fat salt pork on the grate to keep the chicken from sticking. Place on the breast and thighs the thinnest slices of fat salt pork (with no streak of lean), keep- ing them in place by sticking a wooden toothpick in them. Have the oven hot. Allow 15 minutes to the pound for baking. Don't put any water in the dripping-pan at first. Allow the flour to brown nicely, and the juice from the fat to get hot and brown. m t6ULTRV. When well browned pour a cup of boiling water or oiie-lialf iel' spoonful butter and a little salt, and baste the chicken with it. Repeat this occasionally, but add no more water unless it should all cook away. When one side is browned, turn other side, then on the back till breast is nicely browned. Dredge with flour again about 15 min- utes before serving, and baste well. If it should get too brown before being well cooked, lay a buttered brown paper over it. Make a gib- let sauce according to rule before given, or a plain gravy in the pan, by turning off part of the fat, adding sufficient water and thickening with a little flour rubbed smooth in cold water or milk. Cliickea Dressiiig-s. — Use any of the dressings given for turkeys. Chicken Sauces or Gravies. — Use any of the gravies or sauces given for turkeys. Boned Chicken. — Prepare the same as for boned turkey. Boiled Chickens. — Prepare same as boiled turkey. Boiled Chicken with Oysters. — Pick and clean two plump chickens ; dress as for roasting ; rub over some salt and pepper and a little celery seed ; fill the inside with oysters ; secure the ends of the chickens and place them in a saucepan that has a tight lid ; place this in another containing boiling water; keep it boiling until the chickens are tender; then take them out; stir into the gravy the yolks of 2 eggs and one-quarter pint of cream ; season to taste with salt and pepper; let the sauce get very hot, but do not allow it to boil, or it will curdle. Serve immediately. Baked Chicken with Rice. — Cut a chicken into pieces in the usual manner, season with pepper and salt, and place in a deep dish lined with thin slices of salt pork, ham, or bacon according to taste. Add a pint of veal gravy, into which has been stirred 1 finely-chopped onion, and fill the dish with boiled rice, heaping slightly. To protect from the direct heat of the oven, cover with a paste, which may be economically made of flour and water. Bake for an hour, remove the paste, and serve while hot. Chicken Fricassee. — Cut a well-cleaned chicken of 3 or 4 pounds into 10 pieces and place in a saucepan. Add 1 even tablespoonful salt, 1 even teaspoonful pepper, 2 onions; cover with boiling water and cook till tender; then mix 1 tablespoonful flour with 1 ounce butter, and add it to the fricassee. Ten minutes before serving mix 1 pint of prepared flour with 1 teaspoonful of butter, one-fourth cup- POULTRY. 137 ful of milk, 2 whole eggs beaten into a stiff batter : cut with a table- spoon small portions from the batter, drop them into the fricassee, cover and boil 6 minutes; then remove instantly the saucepan to side of stove, where they stop boiling. In serving arrange the chicken on a warm dish and lay the dumplings in a circle around it. Sprinkle 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped parsley over the whole and serve. The batter will make 12 good-sized dumplings. Brown Fricassee of Chicken. — Cut the chicken in 11 pieces. Place 2 ounces of butter in a saucepan; when a nice brown put in the chicken. Stir till every piece is nicely browned, then add 2 table- spoonfuls of flour; stir again, add 1 pint of boiling water on stock, stir until it boils; add a teaspoonful of salt. Cover and let simmer gently until tender, add a teaspoonful of onion juice and a little black pepper. Dish. Put the neck piece, heart, liver, gizzard and back pieces in the centre of the dish; put the two breast pieces on top, the second joint, on each side of the plate, the legs crossed on the other, and a wing at each end. Pour the sauce over, sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve. Fricasseed Chicken with Oysters. — Boil a chicken or fowl until tender, first cutting it into small pieces. Take up the pieces and fry them in butter. Boil the water in which the chicken was cooked down to 1 pint, add salt and pepper to taste, butter the size of an egg, and flour to thicken. Drop a pint of oysters into the butter that the chicken was fried in and cook until the edges curl, then pour into the sauce with half a cup of cream added the last thing. Boil up and pour over the chicken. Dumpling-s for Fricasseed Chickens. — One and one-half cups of flour put into the sieve, into which put 1 scant teaspoonful of soda, 2 scant teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, half teaspoonful of salt; sift twice, then add two-third cups of sweet milk; mix light, handling as little as possible; roll half inch thick; cut with a knife into small squares ; sift a little flour over (very little). Then after the soup or stew is rightly seasoned and boiling well, lay the dumplings on top, covering tightly, and let them boil for 15 minutes without removing the cover. Have it set off where it will not burn or stick on. Kentucky Chicken. — Cut a fat hen into pieces and stew, add plenty of milk, thickening and butter, to make a good deal of rich gravy. Split little baking-powder biscuits, lay on the platter and 138 POULTRY. arrange the chicken and sauce over them. Edge the platter with thin shces of salt pork dipped in flour and fried. Brunswick Stew. — This is a Virginia concoction, and very pala- table it is too. A medium sized chicken cut as for frying, a potato for each member of the family, 2 ears of corn cut from the cob, a gen- erous handful of lima beans, and three nice round tomatoes. Salt and pepper to taste. The chicken is first parboiled and then the vegetables added, and the whole cooked an hour and a half longer. It may sound messy, but it tastes good. It is served in a deep platter and the only other vegetable used is rice — this last not mushy, but where each grain stands out by itself Chicken Stewed with Potatoes. — Prepare and cook chicken in same manner as for chicken pie; just before chicken is quite done pare quantity of new potatoes, lay them on top of chicken, let them boil until done; then take potatoes up on plate by themselves, turn pint of sweet milk in with chicken, thicken with flour, wet with sweet milk, season with pepper, salt and plenty of butter. Chicken Stewed Avith Tomato. — Cut up the chicken and fry it lightly, then make a rich brown gravy by dredging a little flour into the butter in which the chicken was fried. Put in sufficient water to make a bowl of gravy. Cut up the tomatoes (there should be a quart after they are skinned) and a medium-sized onion, add to them a little chopped parsley, salt, cayenne and black pepper. When all are well mixed put in the chicken, pouring in the gravy. Let stew for two hours. Then put in a pint bowl of rice and let it stew slowly an hour longer. It should be a moist stew. Chicken Stew, Creole Style. — Three pullets, ] quart of tomatoes (fresh or canned), 6 green pepper pods, 1 quart stewed peas, 1 onion, 1 slice boiled ham. Joint the chickens and stew them together with the peppers, ham and onion in enough water to cover them until the meat falls from the bones. Remove the chicken to a large dish and keep hot. Strain the broth, put the tomatoes in the liquor and stew down thick, season with salt. Add the peas while hot. Pour the stewed tomato over the chicken, then the peas. Maryland Fried Chicken. — Cut up the chicken in joints, salt and pepper, put in stew pan, add enough hot water to keep from burning ; cover closely and set on back of stove to steam for one hour. Have ready a hot spider, remove chicken from saucepan and POULTRY. 139 brown in butter or lard, as desired ; when all the chicken is browned and removed to a hot platter then pour in the spider any liquid that may remain in saucepan, add 2 tablespoonfuls of flour previously mixed to smooth batter, 1 ^ pints of milk and some parsley chopped fine ; boil all together, season sauce to suit taste and pour over chicken. By this method the chicken retains its fine flavor, is thor- oughly cooked, tender and delicious, without being dry, hard or un- derdone, as is so often the case with fried chicken. Chickens Fried iu Batter. — Choose a fine chicken, cut it into pieces, dip them into egg batter; bake them in the oven in clear hot butter for about 15 minutes. If the chicken is parboiled before frying or baking, there will be no danger of the chicken being underdone. Broiled Chicken. — Clean, dress, singe, etc. Cut down the mid- dle of the back with a sharp knife, remove the contents and clean thoroughly. Lay down upon a clean board and pound with a pestle to break the bones enough to make it lay flat. Sprinkle well with salt and pepper, and rub all over with the fingers some soft butter. Broil over a hot fire, constantly turning — or better still, pin nicely in buttered brown paper and broil, turning every few minutes, being careful not to scorch the paper. See that the paper is pinned in such a way as to prevent any of the juice escaping. Or, prepare as above and sprinkle with fine bread crumbs and bake in a hot oven a good half hour. Baked Chicken. — Split a dressed chicken down the back, put it in a baking-pan, chicken, inside down. Cover with strips of salt pork, pepper, salt and bake. It will be found delicious. Take up, pour off the fat from the pan gravy, add a cup of milk and let boil up. Chiclien Pie. — Take a pair of fat chickens ; prepare and disjoint them. Put in a stew-pan and season highly with salt, black pepper and a little cayenne; dredge in a little flour, and cover well with cold water; stew over a slow fire three-quarters of an hour. Line the sides of a deep baking dish with a nice crust. Lay the chicken in the dish, removing the largest bones. Pour in half the gravy, dredge lightly with flour, and add a few bits of butter. Roll out the upper crust, cover carefully, being sure to leave an opening in the top. Bake in a quick oven about an hour. Before sending to table pour in the remainder of the hot gravy. This pie is equally good made of cold chicken. Put the meat in layers, dredging flour and seasoning over 140 POULTRY. each. Pour in some of the broth or gravy in which the fowl waS cooked. Line the dish with paste and cover as before. Add bits of butter before putting on the crust. Cbickeu Pie witli Oysters. — Boil a good-sized chicken until tender, drain off the liquor from a quart of oysters. Line the sides and bottom of a large, round pan with crust, put in a layer of oysters and a layer of chicken until the pan is full. Season with pepper, salt, bits of cottolene and the oyster liquor, add some of the chicken liquor. Cover with crust and bake. Serve with sliced lemon. Cliickeu Pot-Pie. — Cut up the chicken as for chicken pie, put it in a kettle, cover it with water, add a little salt, and boil until done; have ready a light biscuit dough, cut in squares, lay it on top of the chicken, cover tightly and boil 30 minutes without lifting the cover or allowing the boiling to cease. Lay the chicken in a deep dish, removing the largest bones. Cover with the crust, season and thicken the gravy and pour over it. Light soda biscuit, or baking-powder biscuit, can be split and laid on a platter and fricasseed chicken poured over them hot. This is much more wholesome than the boiled pot- pie. This rule is applicable to veal, venison, and other pot-pies. Cold biscuit can be utilized as pot-pie. Heat and soften thoroughly in the hot broth, arrange on a platter with the chicken, or any other variety of meat that may be used, and pour the gravy over all. These have the merit of being always light and digestible. Chicken Pot-Pie, Southern Style. — One large chicken, dis- jointed as for a stew, one pound of lean ham, four medium-sized potatoes. Make a plain pot-pie crust, any preferred style. Cut the ham and the potatoes into dice. Put a layer of chicken in the kettle, then a layer of potatoes, then a sprinkling of salt and pepper. Then the remainder of the chicken, and then the potatoes, ham, etc., pota- toes last. Pour in 1 quart of water. Roll out the paste an inch or more in thickness. Make an opening in it for the escape of steam, and lay it over the top of the last layer. Simmer continuously for \y^ hours. Half an hour before the pie is done, add, through the opening in the crust, 1 tablespoonful of butter cut in bits and rolled in flour. Dish on a large platter. Break up the crust in pieces and arrange around the edge of the platter. Chicken Short-Cake. — Make a short-cake with two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, 1 pint of flour, 1 tablespoonful of butter rubbed POULTRY. 141 into the flour; moisten with 1 cupful of sweet milk. Bake quickly. Tear open; lay on a large platter and turn the stewed chicken over it. Serve at once. Smothered Cliicken. — Cut chicken as for frying, roll each piece in flour, with which has been mixed salt and pepper; have lard or butter hot in a skillet (half an onion chopped fine may be added if desired); pack the chicken in, dredge flour, pour in a pint of water, cover tightly and bake in a hot oven. Open the pan and brown lightly. Make a gravy in the pan. Chickeu Pucldiug-. — Cut up two young chickens, stew in water enough to cover. When boiled quite tender, season; take from the broth, remove all the large bones. Put the meat in a buttered baking-- dish ; add some bits of butter and pour over them the following batter : 4 eggs, beaten light, 1 quart of milk, 3 tablespoonfuls melted butter, 1 teaspoonful salt, and 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, sifted with enough flour to make a batter like griddle-cakes. Bake one hour in a moderate oven. Make a gravy of the broth, thickening it with a tablespoonful of flour rubbed smooth in a little water; add a little boiling water to the gravy if necessary. Let boil up once. Serve hot in a gravy boat, with the pudding. Chicken Roly-Poly. — One quart of flour sifted with 3 teaspoon- fuls of baking powder, 1 teaspoonful salt ; no shortening. Roll out about one-half inch thick. Cover it with a layer of minced chicken, veal or mutton. Have the meat seasoned and free from gristle. Roll the crust over like a roll jelly-cake. Lay it on a buttered dish, with the folded-over end down, and put in a steamer for half an hour. Serve for lunch, giving a slice to each person. If there is any gravy left over from the day before or any broth, make hot gravy to serve with it. Chickeu Turn-overs. — Chop cold roast chicken fine ; heat it up with a little water and gravy, or butter. Season ; dredge with a tablespoonful of flour ; let boil up and remove from the fire to cool. When cool, roll plain pie-crust out thin ; cut in rounds as large as a saucer ; wet the edge with cold water ; put a large spoonful of the minced meat on one-half of the round, fold the other half over ; pinch the edges well together and cook in a hot oven. They may also be fried in hard fat like fried cakes. These are nice served hot, or cold they are a much-liked addition to the lunch-basket. 142 POULTRY. Stock Jelly for Poultry or Meats. — One quart of soup stock, seasoned with salt, white pepper, celery-seed and the juice of 1 lemon ; let cool ; remove the fat; then boil slowly with the white of 1 egg to clarify it. The egg and the sediment will rise; skim carefully; dis- solve ] ounce of gelatine in the stock. Strain the whole through a napkin. It can be colored different tints with the same colorings used for soup. It can be used in different ways with boned turkey, cold meats, etc., and can be cut in blocks for garnishing elabo- rate meat dishes. Chicken Curry. — Cut up a chicken weighing about 2 pounds, as for a fricassee, and put over with sufficient water to cover it ; cook slowly until tender ; season thoroughly. Remove the chicken, pour the liquor in a bowl and set it to one side. Cut up two small onions, and fry with a piece of butter ; when the onions are brown, skim out and put in the chicken ; fry three or four minutes ; next sprinkle over it 2 teaspoonfuls of curry powder. Pour in the liquor in which the chicken was stewed, stir all well together, stew five min- utes, and thicken with a tablespoonful of flour rubbed smooth in a little cold water. A beaten egg may be stirred in at the last. Serve with a border of hot boiled rice laid around the edge of the platter, and the curry in the centre. It is a handsome side dish to accompany a full dinner, with roast meats. The curry powder may be bought, or made after the receipt given in this book. Other meats and other fowls may be prepared in this same fashion. Indian Curry. — Cut chicken or lamb into small pieces, and stew until tender. When partly cooked add 1 onion and 2 tomatoes chopped fine, and season with salt and pepper. When the meat becomes tender, skim it out and mix together 1 dessert-spoon of curry powder, 2 dessertspoons of tomato catsup, 2 dessertspoons of Worcestershire sauce, and 2 dessertspoons of flour. Stir this into the gravy. Cook five minutes. Return the meat to the kettle. Let it boil up once, and serve with rice cooked dry. Chicken a la Tartare. — Take half-grown young chickens, split down the back, place in a baking-pon, spread thickly with butter, dust with salt and pepper, sprinkle with minced parsley and chopped onion, cover the pan, set in the oven for half an hour ; take up, brush over with beaten egg, dip in grated bread crumbs, and broil over the fire until brown. POULTRY. 143 Mushroom Chicken. — Boil one hen until tender, cut off the meat and chop fine. Crack the bones and put them back in the water the hen was boiled in, and allow to simmer. Then put into a hot skillet 1 tablespoonful of butter, and then into this 3 tablespoons of sifted flour. One cup of milk and 1 cup of the stock, warmed together — pepper and salt. Put into a buttered baking dish 1 layer of the chicken, then a layer of chopped mushrooms, then some of the dress- ing, and so on until the dish is full. Cover with toasted bread crumbs and bake. Wetting the crumbs with a beaten egg makes them brown nicely Scalloped Chicken. — This very nice supper dish may be made from such bits of cold chicken as will not otherwise present a nice appearance. For each cupful of the minced chicken allow half as much white sauce ; put the chicken in layers alternating with chopped hard-boiled eggs, 1 for each cupful ; season and moisten with the sauce; cover with bread crumbs and bake 15 minutes. Turkey or veal may be used in this way, and instead of baking in one large dish individual scallop shells may be used when it will make a nice course at dinner. Chicken Patties. — Pick the meat from a cold chicken and cut in small pieces. Put in a sauce-pan with a little hot water and milk, butter, salt and pepper. Thicken with a little flour and the yolk of an egg. Line patty- pans with good crust, glaze with the white of an egg, and bake. When done fill with the chicken and send to the table hot. Cut out round cakes of the crust for the tops, and bake them. Novelty Chicken Pie. — Dress two chickens and cut each into nine pieces. Cut the breast in two parts, either crosswise or length- wise. Unjoint the legs and cut off the neck where it joins the ribs. Cook in plenty of water, adding a few slices of " boiling " pork. Re- move the meat before it is so tender that it will cleave from the bones. Let it stand till cold. Mix to a smooth batter a heaped quart measure of flour, a pint of sweet cream, a pint of milk, 3 beaten eggs, a heap- ing teaspoonful of salt and 2 full teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Rub the sides and bottom of a small pan or large basin with cold butter. Spread a little more than a third of the batter over the bottom, then arrange half the meat, including the giblets, another layer of batter, then the remainder of the meat. Make the top layer of the rest of 144 POULTRY. the batter, using a knife dipped in cold water to form a smooth sur- face. Strain the Hquor in which the chickens were boiled, season to taste, and set where it will reach scalding heat, but not boil. Imme- diately before serving the pie, thicken the liquor with 3 well-beaten eggs and a little cornstarch wet with cold water if it is not as thick as desired. Minced Chicken. — Mince very fine the meat left from cold roast chicken, removing all skin, bones and gristle. Put the bones and all the trimmings into a saucepan with a bunch of savory herbs and a pint of broth or water; let this all cook for nearly an hour, and then strain it off. Chop 2 hard-boiled eggs very fine; season the chicken with a little pepper, salt and mace ; mix it with the eggs. Thicken the gravy with a teaspoonful of flour, a tablespoonful of butter, and a cup of cream. Pour the gravy over the chicken mixture ; let it get very hot, but do not let it boil. Garnish the dish with sippets of toasted bread. It is nice to cook cold chicken in this fashion for chicken short-cake, etc. Little Dish of Chicken. Chicken Legs, to Cook. — There are many special and delicious ways of preparing individual parts of chicken, and in small families it is really more economical to cook some portions of a pair of chickens first, than to cook all at once and then re-serve. Take the drum-sticks, boil about 20 minutes, and then bone, sea- son with pepper and salt and a pinch of mustard for each leg. Rub all over to see the seasoning is evenly distributed; roll the drum- sticks, skewer, with small toothpicks, in shape. Cover with beaten egg, and then roll in sifted bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat about 5 minutes, browning each side. Serve with a brown sauce made in the pan, stirring into it 1 even teaspoonful dry mustard, a pinch of cay- enne and 1 tablespoonful catsup. Turkey legs may be served in the same manner, only cooking longer. Geese. Roast Goose. — Select a young goose, which can be told by a brittle windpipe, white skin, plump breast and yellow feet ; the web should tear easily. An old goose is known by its red feet. Singe, draw, wash and wipe the goose. Beat the breast flat with a rolling- POULTRY. 145 pin, draw up the legs and skewer both legs and wings close to the body. Stuff with the following dressing : 1 pint stale bread crumbs, 2 medium-sized onions boiled and mashed, one-half teacupful boiled rice, 1 teaspoonful powdered sage, one-half teaspoonful salt, one-fourth teaspoonful pepper, 1 tablespoonful melted butter and one-half tea- cupful milk. Roast in a covered pan, allowing rather more than 20 minutes to the pound. Baste frequently, with the following mixture: One teaspoonful made mustard, a saltspoonful salt, a dash of cayenne, a large tablespoonful melted butter, a teacupful hot water, a teaspoon- ful vinegar. This basting is a great improvement. Boil the giblets slowly 2 hours, or until tender, with a slice of onion, 3 or 4 peppercorns and a blade of mace. When ready to make the gravy, take 2 tablespoonfuls of oil from the roasting pan of the goose ; add the water the giblets were boiled in, enough water to finish the gravy, the giblets, chopped very fine, and flour to thicken. Boil up and serve in a gravy boat. A cup of rich milk improves this gravy. Serve with hot apple-sauce. An apple dressing can be used, and is considered by some to add greatly to the flavor of the goose. It is made as follows : Apple Dressing- or Stuffing-. — One pint of tart apple-sauce, 1 tea- cupful of bread crumbs, a little sage, salt and pepper. Mix and use to stuff roast duck, goose and some kinds of game. Potato Stuffing. — Mashed potatoes ; season with cream or rich milk, butter, cayenne pepper and salt. Add 1 cupful of bread crumbs. Use for any fowl. Apple-sauce for Meats. — Slice tart apples, first paring. Stew half an hour, adding a little water. Throw in butter in proportion of 1 small teaspoonful to 1 quart of sauce. Beat fine. Use no sugar. Serve, especially with roast goose, or duck. Goose Stuffed with Sauerkraut. — Stuff a dressed goose with sauerkraut. Sew it up, tie into shape, and place it in a large kettle, cover it with about 2 quarts of sauerkraut. Cover the whole with boiling water and simmer gently for 3 hours. At the end of this time take out the goose, lay it in a baking-pan, baste it with melted butter, dredge the breast with flour, put it in a quick oven until a nice brown (about an hour). Serve in a bed of the boiled sauerkraut. Devilert Goose. — Take the joints of cold goose, and brown either on a broiler, or in a hot frying-pan. Make the following sauce ; JO 146 POULTRY. Sauce. One tablespoonful each of made mustard, 1 of any kind of catsup, 1 of pepper-sauce, 1 of currant jelly 5. Boil the bones of the chicken in water enough to cover. Moisten the chicken and oyster mixture with the resulting broth to a consistency that it can be moulded by the hands into rolls about the size of the finger. Roll in sifted bread crumbs and fry in hot lard. Cliicken Croquettes. — One-quarter as much fine bread crumbs as meat ; 1 egg beaten light to each cupful of minced meat ; gravy enough to moisten ; pepper, salt and chopped parsley to taste. Mix into a paste. Make into rolls or balls, roll in bread crumbs and fry in nice dripping or a mixture of half lard and half butter. Veal and other meats may be made in the same way ; turkey also. Cream may be used to moisten the minced chicken instead of gravy or broth. Instead of bread crumbs the same amount of stuffing remain- ing over from the roast chicken may be used as a savory change. Chicken and Calves' Brains Croquettes. — One fat hen well boiled, and when cold the skin removed, 2 sets of calves' brains boiled and allowed to cool, 1 large kitchen-spoonful of flour, 1 pint CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. 263 of cream, half a teacup of butter, 1 tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley, 2 raw eggs well beaten, 1 teacupful of bread crumbs, 1 scant teaspoonful of powdered mace, juice of 1 lemon, cayenne pepper, salt and nutmeg to taste. Chop the chicken very fine and rub it into the brains, add the bread crumbs, chopped parsley and mace and eggs. Put the butter in a pan with the flour, and when it bubbles add the cream gradually, then the chopped mixture, salt, pepper and nutmeg, and stir until thoroughly heated, take from the fire and add the lemon juice, then set away to cool. Roll or mould into shape and fry in hot lard after having dipped them in egg and bread crumbs. Meat Croquettes. — Any one may have croquettes who can mince cold meat very fine and stir it into a sauce made thus : One pint of milk, 1 table- spoonful of butter rub- bed into two tablespoon- fuls of flour to thicken ; Timbale Irons. add 1 teaspoonful salt, and flavor with onion juice or celery seed or pulverized dried sage. When cooked add a pint of the chopped meat (for half a pint take half of the sauce) and stir well ; then, when cold, make into croquettes or balls, rolling in the hands. Dip into beaten egg and fine dry bread crumbs, or rolled cracker, and fry like doughnuts in boiling lard. Sauce for Meat Croquettes. — A very nice sauce to serve with croquettes is made of stewed tomatoes put through a sieve and thickened very thick, so it will just spread over them; it is served from a gravy boat with ladle, not on the dish. With croquettes, bits of parsley should be used for a garnish. Baked Croquettes. — Free from bones the chicken left from din- ner, add the liver left from breakfast, and chop fine. Add the potato left from dinner ; mould into cakes and bake on a buttered tin. Ham Croquettes. — A cupful of finely-chopped cooked ham, a cupful of bread crumbs, 2 of hot mashed potatoes, a large tablespoonful of butter, 3 eggs, a speck of cayenne. Beat the ham, cayenne, butter and 2 of the eggs into the potato. Let the mixture cool slightly and shape it like croquettes. Roll in bread crumbs, put in the frying- 264 CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. basket and plunge into boiling fat. Drain and serve. These cro- quettes may be made without the bread crumbs, in which case leave out one egg. Corned Beef Croquettes. — Carefully remove all fat and gristle from pieces of cold corned beef. Chop very fine, as for mince-meat. Mix with rolled cracker crumbs. Add 1 beaten egg, pepper and salt. Mould into little cones, or cut into cakes with the biscuit cutter. Roll in a beaten egg, then in cracker crumbs, then again in beaten egg- Fry in a hot spider with butter till nicely browned on each side. These are very nice, even with the eggs omitted. Sweet-Bread Croquettes. — Take 4 veal sweet-breads, soak for an hour in cold, salted water, first removing the pipes and mem- branes ; then put into boiling, salted water, with a tablespoonful of vinegar. Cook twenty minutes. Drop into cold water to harden. Chop fine, almost to a paste. Season with salt, pepper, and a teaspoon- ful of grated onion ; add 2 beaten eggs, 1 tablespoonful of butter and one-half cupful of cream. Flour the hands and mould into round or pear-shaped balls. Dip first in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs and fry in hot fat to a golden brown. Drain and serve hot on a folded napkin. Garnish with sliced lemon or parsley. Veal Croquettes. — To 1 pint of chopped cold veal (beef may be used) add one-half pint of cream, or rich milk may be used; to this quantity put 1 tablespoonful butter creamed with one tablespoonful flour. Put all save the meat over the fire to thicken ; season it to taste, and pour over the meat; mix thoroughly and form into shape; roll in bread or cracker-crumbs and fry brown, or, if preferred, bake. Liiver Croquettes. — Take what was left of the liver from break- fast and the remains of any cold meat from dinner to *' piece out." Chop fine and mix with the gravy that was left over. Season with a little pepper and salt and onion juice, or minced onion. Add as much mashed potato as you have meat, season to taste, roll into shape and dip into beaten eggs, then into bread crumbs. Fry a light brown quickly. Drain carefully and serve. Bread crumbs may be used in place of potato. If gravy is not convenient, use a little hot water with a teaspoonful of butter melted in it. Shad-Roe Croquettes. — Wash 2 shad roes, put in a saucepan of boiling water, add a teaspoonful of salt, cover and let simmer slowly for 15 minutes. Take them up, remove the skin and mash them. CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. 265 Put a cupful of milk in a saucepan and set on the stove to boil. Thicken with a tablespoonful of butter and 2 tablespoonfuls of flour rubbed together ; add the beaten yolks of 2 eggs, take from the fire, season with salt, cayenne, black pepper and minced parsley, turn out on a large dish. When cool, form into croquettes, dip first in beaten egg, whites left over, then in grated bread crumbs, and fry in boiling fat. Cod's Roe Croquettes. — Make same as shad-roe croquettes. Fisli Croquettes. — One pint of cold boiled fish (any kind will do), free from skin and bones, and mince fine ; 1 pint of hot mashed potatoes, 1 large tablespoonful of butter, half a cup of hot milk, 1 egg well beaten, pepper and salt and a little chopped parsely ; mix thor- oughly and let cool ; when cold make into balls ; dip into a beaten egg, roll in bread crumbs and fry in hot lard. Drain, garnish with parsley, and serve. If desired, serve with a cream sauce. Codfisli Croquettes. — One cup hot mashed potatoes, one-half cup shredded codfish, 1 egg, a dash of pepper. Add the fish to the mashed potatoes without freshening, then the egg, beating till light and creamy. Shape into croquettes, roll in dried bread crumbs, dip in beaten eggs, then in crumbs again. Fry in wire basket, with fat just at smoking point. Drain on brown paper. Serve in hot platter with parsley garnish. Canned Salmon Croquettes. — Open a pound can of salmon, turn out in a dish, chop fine, drain, remove bones, add a teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of minced parsley, the juice of half a lemon and a dash of cayenne. Put a tablespoonful of milk in a saucepan and set on the fire to boil, thicken with a tablespoonful of butter and 3 of flour rubbed together, let cook 10 minutes, season with a little salt and pepper, and mix with the salmon ; turn out on a dish to cool. When firm, form into croquettes, dip first in beaten egg, then in grated bread crumbs, and fry in boiling lard. Take up, drain, serve on a napkin, and garnish with parsley. Oyster Croquettes. — Put 2 dozen fresh oysters in a saucepan in their own liquor, and set over the fire to boil for 5 minutes. Take- from the fire and drain, chop the oysters fine. Put a gill of cream and oyster liquor each in a saucepan and set over the fire. Thicken with 2 tablespoonfuls of flour and 1 of butter rubbed together ; add the beaten yolks of 2 eggs, stir for 1 minute, season with a little salt 266 CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. and cayenne and a tablespoonful of minced parsley ; mix well, turn out on a large, flat dish. When cool, form into cylinders, dip first in beaten egg, then in grated cracker, and fry brown in boiling fat. Lobster Croquettes. — One lobster boiled, or 1 can of lobster, 2 eggs, 1 teacupful bread crumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls melted butter. Salt and cayenne pepper to taste. (Instead of pepper some cooks add 1 teaspoonful mustard.) Chop the lobster meat fine, add bread crumbs, the seasoning and the butter. Mix with the yolk of 1 egg. Make into oblong croquettes. Beat the remainder of the eggs and dip the croquettes first in them and then in bread crumbs and fry to a light brown. Drain off fat by laying upon a hot clean paper before dishing. Clam Croquettes. — Scald the clams 5 minutes in their own liquor. Drain, and chop fine, then mix with the following cream sauce : One tablespoonful of butter blended with 2 tablespoonfuls of flour. Season with salt, a pinch of ground mace and a dash of cay- enne. Stir over the fire until it thickens, then add the beaten yolk of an egg and 1 teaspoonful chopped parsley. Stir until very thick and turn out to cool. When cold, shape into balls, or cones, dip in egg, then in bread crumbs and fry in smoking hot fat. Cream Cliestuut Croquettes. — Fifty Spanish chestnuts, one-half cupful cream, 3 tablespoonfuls butter, 4 eggs, one-half teaspoonful salt. Shell, blanch and boil the chestnuts 30 minutes. Drain and pound the chestnuts fine in a mortar. Add the butter and salt by degrees, pounding until it is mixed to a paste. Add the cream, a little at a time, working or pounding thoroughly. Beat 3 of the eggs light and beat into the other ingredients. Put the mixture into a double boiler and cook 8 or 10 minutes, stirring constantly. It should be smooth and thick at the end of this time if the water in the outer boiler has been boiling rapidly. Spread it on a large platter and set away to cool. When the mixture is cold, butter the hands slightly and shape the mixture into cylinders, cones or balls. Dip these in the fourth egg (beaten) and then in fine bread crumbs. Fry for one minute and a half. Arrange on a warm napkin and serve at once. Rico and Meat Croquettes. — 1 cupful of boiled rice, 1 cupful of finely chopped and cooked meat — any kind — 1 teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, half a cupful of milk, 1 egg. Put the milk on to boil, and add the meat, rice, and seasoning. When CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. 267 this boils, add the egg, well beaten; stir 1 minute. After cooling, shape, dip in egg and crumbs, and fry as before directed. Rice Croquettes. — Take 1 pint of boiled rice ; add 1 egg, salt and pepper ; beat well ; drop by spoonfuls into hot lard, and fry a deep brown. If liked, sprinkle with powdered sugar. Rice Croquettes, witli Parmesan Sauce. — Boil half a pint of rice in a quart of stock until the stock is all absorbed; add a table- spoonful of minced parsley, 2 of butter, the yolks of 2 eggs, and a seasoning of salt and cayenne. Turn out to cool, and when cool mould into croquettes and cook as usual. Parmesan Sauce. — Make a sauce of a tablespoonful each of butter and flour, a gill each of stock and milk, and 2 tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese ; season with cayenne, and serve poured around the croquettes. Green Corn Croquettes. — One quart tender green corn, grated; 1 cup of sifted flour, one cup sweet milk, 5 scant tablespoonfuls but- ter, 2 eggs, 1 saltspoonful salt, same of pepper. Grate corn as fine as possible, and mix with the flour and pepper and salt. Warm the milk and melt the butter in it. Add the corn, stir hard, and let cool. Then stir the eggs beaten very light, the whites last. Work into small oval balls, and fry in plenty of hot butter. Drain, and serve hot. Parsnip Croquettes. — Mash cold, boiled parsnips and form into small cakes, dip into beaten egg and bread crumbs, seasoned to taste with salt and pepper, and fry to a light brown. Serve very hot. Oyster plant, potatoes, squash, turnips and carrots are equally nice served in this way, and if the quantity of the vegetables is insufficient, add finely grated bread crumbs, mix well and season thoroughly. Macaroni Croquettes. — Half pound of macaroni broken into bits. Put in boiling salted water, and boil 20 minutes rapidly. Drain, and throw into cold water to blanch for 15 minutes. Make a cream sauce of half pint of milk, 1 tablespoonful of butter blended with 4 even tablespoonfuls of flour. Put the milk in a double boiler and stir in the butter and flour; cook until a paste. Then add a beaten egg ; cook for a moment. Take from the fire, add 2 tablespoonfuls of grated cheese, a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper. Drain and shake the macaroni, cut it into half-inch pieces ; stir these into the mixture, and turn out to cool. When cold, form into croquettes ; 268 CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. dip first into egg and then in bread crumbs, and fry in smoking-ltot fat. This quantity will make 18 good-sized croquettes. Potato Croquettes. — Take 4 cold mealy potatoes, crumble them through a sieve and beat up well with 2 tablespoonfuls of cream ; add salt and pepper and chopped parsley. Bind the mixture with an egg well beaten, then make into small cakes and fry in boiling butter or lard. Serve very hot, garnished with parsley. Sweet Potato Croquettes. — Boil, mash and season sweet potatoes with salt, butter and cream. Add the white of 1 or 2 eggs, according to the quantity of potato used, and cream the mixture. Make into pats, dip each into the beaten yolks of the eggs and roll them in sifted bread or cracker crumbs, and fry until brown in a wire basket. Egg- Croquettes. — Egg croquettes are a delicate dish for luncheon. Cut some hard-boiled eggs into dice a quarter of an inch in size. Mix them with some chopped mushrooms, if convenient. Stir care- fully into a white sauce. Turn the mixture into a cold dish to stiffen. Mix into croquettes. Fry in hot fat. Fritters. Fritters should be fried in the same quantity of lard that is re- quired for croquettes and doughnuts. The lard should be boiling hot so that the fritter will rise quickly to the top. Send to the table im- mediately, as they become heavy by standing. Some of them are very nice for dessert served with appropriate pudding sauces, or with powdered sugar, syrup or hard sauce. Others are suitable for side- dishes to accompany meat. Be sure that the batter is not too thick, or else it will be too brown on the outside before the center is cooked. Do not put a fork in them, as this would cause them to absorb lard. Remove with a skimmer or split spoon. Fritter Batter. — Two well-beaten egg yolks, 1 cup of cold water. Beat into 8 tablespoonfuls of flour. If very thick, add more water ; add 1 tablespoonful melted butter and half teaspoonful salt. Beat well, then add the beaten whites of the 2 eggs, and beat again. The batter should pour thickly from the spoon. Some cooks use 1 table- spoonful of olive oil instead of butter, claiming that it makes the fritters crisp. Have the kettle of fat deep enough to float the fritters. The batter is equally good for apples, banana, orange, or any kind of fritters, and is also good for dipping frogs' legs in for frying. CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. 269 Moulds for Fritters. Dessert Fritters. — One pint of milk, 3 eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately, flour enough to make a thick batter: beat the milk and flour together, add the beaten yolks and a teaspoonful of salt, and last the whites, beaten very light; drop by spoonfuls into a frying-pan with plenty of boiling lard and fry till they puff away up. Eat hot with hard sauce, although i children think them superlatively good sim- ply spread with butter and sugared. Omit- ting the sweet sauce, these fritters can be served plain with meats. This rule can be varied by making it with sour milk and soda, using only 2 eggs and 1 teaspoon- ful of soda to 1 pint of sour milk, add to the batter 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar. Clam Fritters. — Take 25 clams from shell ; if very large, cut in two, lay them on a folded napkin to drain ; put into a basin a pint of flour, add 2 well-beaten eggs, half pint of sweet milk, 1 cup of clam liquor; beat the batter until smooth; then stir in the clams. Put plenty of lard or beef fat into a frying-pan, let it become boiling hot, put in batter by spoonful, brown on both sides and serve. Oyster Fritters. — Make a batter of 3 eggs, 1 pint of milk, 1 pint of flour and a little salt ; dip the oysters into the batter and fry quickly in hot lard ; drain on brown paper and serve garnished with parsley. Crab Fritters. — For a 1 -pound can use 2 eggs, well beaten ; a good half teacup of milk, a lump of butter size of an egg (melted), a pinch of cayenne pepper and 4 tablespoonfuls of powdered crackers. Mix with crab meat and fry in butter. This makes 7 good-sized fritters. Fish Roe Fritters. — Remove the skin from the boiled roe, beat it up, season with salt and pepper, add about a quarter of its bulk in fine bread crumbs, a teaspoon or so of minced parsley, and a couple of raw eggs; drop the mixture from a tablespoon into boiling butter or fat, and fry lightly on both sides. (See Shad-Roe Croquettes for preparing the roe.) Calves' Brain Fritters. — Take the brains of the calf's head, which should be removed before cooking, boil them 30 minutes, 270 CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. drain, chop and mix them with a batter made with 1 egg, a little salt, 1 cup of milk and flour enough to make a thin batter. Fry like fritters. Luncheon dish or an entree. Pork Fritters. — A nice breakfast dish. Have some thin slices of pork freshened. Fry out 1 or 2 slices to obtain fat for frying the remainder. Dip each slice in a batter of Indian meal and flour, drop into the bubbling fat, seasoning with pepper. Cook until brown, and serve hot. The batter may be made of 1 beaten egg, a tablespoon- ful of flour, a cup of sweet milk, meal sufficient to make a fritter batter. Season with salt and a sprinkle of pepper. Beef Fritters. — Cut cold roast beef into fine shreds. Make a batter of 1 egg, well beaten, 1 cup of water or soup stock, 1 tea- spoonful butter, flour enough to make a batter of ordinary thickness. Season with pepper and salt. Add the shredded beef; drop by small spoonfuls into hot lard. Fry brown, serve hot with a slice of lemon or some crisp dressed lettuce. Toiig-ue Fritters. — Slice cold boiled tongue, make a batter as for Beef Fritters. Dip the slices of tongue in the batter and fry a nice brown on both sides in hot beef drippings or other fat. Serve hot with sliced lemon. Ham Fritters. — One cup of cold minced ham, 1 egg, 1 cup of soup stock, a saltspoonful of dry mustard, a teaspoonful of Worces- tershire sauce, 1 tablespoonful of butter, 1 teaspoonful of flour. Heat the stock to boiling point and thicken with butter and flour, rubbed together; stir into it the ham with the seasoning; add the beaten egg. Let boil for a minute; remove from fire to cool. When cold make into small balls, drop into a batter made of one cup of flour, two tea- spoonfuls of melted butter, a small cup of warm water, the beaten white of an egg and a saltspoonful of salt. Fry in boiling fat and serve at once. A luncheon or a side dish. Potato Fritters. — Beat up very light some cold mashed potatoes, add a little salt, 2 eggs, half a cup of milk and flour enough to make it the consistency of pancake batter. Beat very smooth, then drop by spoonfuls into hot lard and fry to a light brown. Tomato Fritters. — Cook together half a can of tomatoes, half a teaspoonful of salt, a pinch of pepper and half a teaspoonful of sugar. After cooking 10 minutes, stir into it a tablespoonful of flour and one of butter that have been previously blended. Cook 3 minutes longer CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. 271 and rub through a strainer. Spread on a platter 4 sHces of stale bread, and pour the strained tomato over them. Let this stand for half an hour, then turn the slices. Beat one egg, and dip the toast first in the egg, then in bread crumbs. After that put them into the frying basket and cook in boiling fat 2 minutes. Drain well and serve hot. Siiimuer Squasli Fritters. — Peel and boil tender young summer squash. Drain and rub through a colander ; to a quart of the pulp add a tablespoonful of butter, 2 eggs, salt and pepper to season ; make into small flat cakes and fry a light brown in boiling fat, drain on paper and serve hot. Celery Fritters. — Cut up into two-inch lengths the tender white part of a dozen or so stalks of celery, the nearer the heart the better, and plunge them into scalding water. Boil for a quarter of an hour, then take them out of the hot water, drain them, and dip each separ- ately into a batter made as for Beef Fritters. Fry in hot fat, taking up as fast as the batter takes on a golden color. Drain on an inverted sieve, or paper. Serve hot on a folded napkin laid on a platter. Green Coru Fritters, — One dozen ears of corn, grated and scraped, or canned corn may be used by draining and mashing the kernels with a potato masher ; 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 2 tablespoon- fuls of melted butter, salt to taste ; stir, add 2 eggs, beaten separately, and a cupful of sweet milk, a spoonful at a time. Bake on a well- greased griddle and turn. Test a little at first and add more flour, if necessary. One tablespoonful of sugar is an improvement to most tastes. Another and better way to fry is to have ready a deep frying pan, nearly full of boiling lard. Drop in the batter a spoonful at a time. When a pale brown, remove with a strainer and lay on a hot dish for a moment to drain. Send to the table at once. Green Pea Fritters. — Canned peas will do. Three cups of cooked peas, mash while hot with a spoon, seasoning with salt, pepper and butter ; put by until morning ; make a batter of 2 whipped eggs, a cup of milk, a quarter teaspoonful of soda, a half teaspoonful of cream of tartar, and half a cupful of flour ; stir this with the pea mixture, beating hard and cook like griddle cakes. One teaspoonful of baking powder may be substituted for the other rising. Cncuniber Fritters. — A modern way of serving cucumbers is in the form of fritters. For this, peel and grate, pressing out all the 272 CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. juice. Add half a teacup of rich, sweet cream, half a pint of flour, 1 gill of melted butter, and pepper and salt to taste. Beat 4 eggs sep- arately, add to the batter, and fry as other fritters. They closely re- semble fried oysters. Hoiniiiy Fritters. — Beat an egg and a little milk into a cupful of cold pearl hominy. Add salt and flour ; drop by spoonfuls in hot butter. Spinacli Fritters. — Take well-cooked spinach and mince it. To each cupful take one-half cup of bread crumbs, 1 scant teaspoonful of sugar and a dash of nutmeg. Add a cupful of cream, 2 eggs and as much flour as will make the mixture a consistent batter, and stir in with the flour a teaspoonful of good baking powder. Drop into boiling fat and let fry till brown. Serve hot. Cauliflower Fritters. — Boil a cauliflower for a few minutes only, separate it into sprigs, and let these lie in a bath, or " marinade " of seasoned vinegar for a short time. Then drain and dip each one into a batter made with 1 beaten egg, a little flour and a spoonful of milk. Fry in boiling fat until of a delicate brown, pile them in the center of a dish and place cutlets around. Fruit Fritters. — The best batter for fruit fritters is made as fol- lows : — Mix the yolks of 2 eggs with a tablespoonful of sweet oil, an even saltspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of lemon juice, 2 teaspoons of sugar. After mixing these ingredients add a cup of flour, and little by little a gill of cold water. The batter may now be set aside or the whites of 2 eggs beaten to a stiff froth may be stirred into it at once. If it seems too thick, add another white of an egg. It must be just the proper consistency to coat the fruit thoroughly. The fruit can be sliced and dipped in the batter, or cut fine and stirred in the batter, which is then dropped by spoonfuls in the hot fat. Oranges should be cut in small pieces and seeded. Powdered sugar and cream may be served with them. Peaches are extra nice served in this manner. Melted butter can be used in place of oil. Orange Fritters. — Four oranges, batter as above. Peel the oranges, being careful to take off all the white pith. Divide through the natural divisions of the orange. Seed if necessary, but a seedless orange is best. Dip each piece into batter and fry deep yellow, in plenty of lard made hot for the purpose ; serve on napkin with pow- dered sugar. CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. 273 Currant Fritters. — (Very nice.) — Two cups dry, fine bread crumbs ; 2 tablespoonfuls prepared flour ; 2 cups of milk ; one-half pound currants, washed and well dried ; 5 eggs whipped very light and the yolks strained; one-half cup powdered sugar; 1 tablespoonful butter; one-half teaspoonful mixed cinnamon aud nutmeg, Boil the milk and pour over the bread. Mix and put in the butter. Let it get cold. Beat in, next, the yolks and sugar, the seasoning, flour and stiff whites ; finally, the currants dredged whitely with flour. The batter should be thick. Drop in great spoonfuls into the hot lard and fry. Drain them and send hot to table. Eat with wine sauce, or some other preferred pudding sauce. Peacli Fritters. — A favorite New England delicacy is called peach fritters. Make a batter from 1 quart of flour, 1 cup of luke- warm milk and three-quarters of a yeast cake dissolved in a little water. Set to rise in a warm place : this will take from 4 to 5 hours. When light add to the mixture 3 well-beaten eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar, a piece of butter the size of an egg, and a little salt. Mix with the hands as you would raise biscuit. Break off small pieces of the dough and spread out thin with the hand. In the center place a peach that has been cut in half and the stone removed. Roll the dough around it to make a ball and leave on the moulding board to rise the second time. When again light fry slowly in very hot lard. The fritters are to be eaten with powdered sugar or a liquid lemon sauce. Pineapple Fritters. — Separate 2 eggs ; add to the yolks 1 cup of cream. Put 1^ cups flour in a bowl; add, mixing all the while, 1 tablespoonful of melted butter ; stir in the eggs and milk. Beat hard ; add j^ teaspoonful of salt ; stir in carefully the well-beaten whites. Pare the pineapple several hours before frying time. Cut it into thin slices ; cover with sugar, and, if you like, a little wine. When ready to use, add 1 level teaspoonful of baking powder to batter, dip each slice of pineapple, and fry in smoking hot oil. Drain on paper ; serve with powdered sugar. Other fat can be substituted for the oil. Pineapple Fritters. — II. Take a small can of shredded pineapple, and turn it into a mixing bowl ; add the beaten yolk of an egg, a tablespoonful of melted butter, a scant pint of flour, and cold water sufficient to make a batter that will drop from the end of a spoon. Just before baking stir the white of the egg beaten stiff into this bat- 18 274 CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. ter, and fry like doughnuts in a kettle of boiling fat. Lift out with a skimmer ; lay on brown paper for a moment and dust with powdered sugar. Serve with wine sauce. Strawberry Fritters. — Stem nice, solid, large berries, dust them with sugar, add a few drops of lemon juice. Beat 2 eggs without separating, add 1 gill of milk, a tablespoonful melted butter, and sufficient flour to make a light batter (1 cup). Add ^ teaspoonful salt, an even teaspoonful baking powder and beat well. Toss in a few berries, cover them with the batter, and drop carefully in smoking hot oil. Serve hot, dusted with powdered sugar. Hot lard can be used instead of oil. Have it at least 2 inches deep in the kettle. Fry a gold color. Pear Fritters. — Cook some pears tender in syrup, drain and cool, cut in quarters, dip in fritter batter, fry brown in hot fat and serve with powdered sugar or sweet sauce. Apple Fritters. — Core and pare large tart apples. Cut them in slices about one-third of an inch thick. Season the slices with nut- meg, then dip them in the batter. See Fr7dt Fritters. Dip them one by one from the batter and drop them into the hot fat. Cook for 3 minutes, then lift from the fat, drain and serve immediately. Pow- dered sugar may be sprinkled on the fritters when they are arranged on the dish. Maple syrup is also nice to serve with them. Peach fritters are made in the same way. If apples that cook easily cannot be obtained, cover with water and cook until half done. Drain and cool. If a sauce is desired with the fritters, make one as follows : Sauce : One-half cup brown sugar, one-half cup water ; when boiling add 1 teaspoonful cornstarch dissolved in cold water ; flavor with 1 tablespoonful of vinegar and one-half teaspoonful of vanilla. It is an improvement to sprinkle the apples with lemon juice before dipping in the batter. A nice dessert. Banana Fritters. — Make the fruit fritter batter, or any preferred batter. Slice bananas about one-half inch thick ; dip into the batter and fry in hot lard. Sprinkling the bananas with a little lemon or orange juice will improve the flavor. Take up each slice of banana with about a spoonful of the batter. Sift powdered sugar over them and serve. A dainty dessert. If a sauce is wished, the following is suitable. Lemon Sauce: Boil 1 cup sugar and 1 cup water together 15 rninutes ; remove from the stove, and, when cooled a little, add CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. 275 one-half teaspoon extract of lemon and 1 tablespoon of lemon juice ; more juice can be added, if liked quite tart. Apricot Fritters. — Cover with water and stew evaporated apri- cots until tender, adding when half done sugar in the proportion of 2 tablespoons to every cup of juice. When the apricots are tender take them out, leaving the syrup to reduce by boiling until quite thick. Dip each piece of apricot into a frying batter made of a cup of flour, a tablespoon of melted butter, a small cup of warm milk and the white of an e^g beaten light. Drop these fritters into boiling deep fat. When done lay on a piece of brown paper in a colander a few minutes. Transfer to a hot dish and pour hot syrup over them. Coffee Fritters. — Soak in strong freshly-made coffee some thick slices of stale bread. Beat up the yolks of 1 or 2 eggs, flavoring them with sugar and a few drops of strong coffee ; brush the slices of bread with this, and fry at once in hot butter ; when crisp, serve hot, sprinkled with sifted sugar. Bread Fritters. — One quart milk, boiling hot ; 2 cups fine bread crumbs ; 3 eggs ; 1 teaspoonful nutmeg ; 1 tablespoonful melted butter; 1 saltspoonful salt, and the same of soda, dissolved in hot water. Soak the bread in the boiling milk 10 minutes in a covered bowl. Beat to a smooth paste ; add the whipped yolks, the butter, salt, soda and finally the whites, whipped stiff. Drop by spoonfuls in boiling lard. Serve with hard sauce. Cream Fritters. — Stir the whites of 5 eggs, 1 cup of thin cream^ 2 full cups of flour and one-quarter teaspoonful of salt together and beat hard for three minutes. Fry in plenty of hot lard, using a table- spoonful of batter for each fritter. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and put a spoonful of jelly or jam on each one when served. Cream Puff Fritters. — A very nice fritter is made from a batter similar to that used for cream cakes and eclaires. Put a cup of milk, or water, over the fire with 2 tablespoons of butter. When the mix- ture boils add one-half cup of sifted flour and stir thoroughly. Then add a teaspoon of sugar and a saltspoon of salt, and when the batter has cooled a little add the yolks of 4 eggs, and finally the whites of 2 eggs. The batter should be stiff enough to roll out on a board. Cut it in fritters the size of an English walnut and fry. They rise to an immense size, as they are merely shells. These can be made with just a stiff batter and dropped by spoonfuls in the fat. •276 CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. Custard Fritters. — A custard fritter is a very delicate variety. Measure out a cupful of milk, add it to half a cupful of flour, pour- ing the milk over it very gradually to make a smooth batter. Then add a well-beaten egg, and cook the batter in a double boiler for 20 minutes. At the end of this time add 2 yolks of eggs, a pinch of salt and a tablespoonful of sugar. Let the mixture boil up over the stove for a minute or two longer, beating it carefully to thoroughly mix it. Pour it into a long, greased pan of proper size, and spread it to the depth of 1 inch. Let it become thoroughly chilled. It is just as well to stand over night. The next day cut it in long pieces, about 2 inches by 3; dip it in beaten eggs, then in fine bread crumbs, handling it very gently, as it is soft. Fry it in hot fat until it is a golden brown, and serve at once. These are delicious fritters when flavored with a very little bitter almond or some grated orange peel. They may be made into an excellent, savory fritter by omitting the sugar and adding a table- spoonful of Parmesan cheese and a pinch of cayenne pepper. Serve with a little grated Parmesan cheese. Jam Fritters. — Any sweet raised dough may be used, rusk or buns. Let rise until very light. Roll out very thin. Cut in circles with a cooky cutter. Heap a teaspoonful of raspberry jam in the center of half the circles. Moisten the edges of the other circles with water and put them carefully over those which have been heaped with jam, pressing the edges very carefully together. Fry the fritters at once in hot fat, dredge them with sugar and serve. Bread Fritters. — Shape raised bread dough in light, round cakes, and leave on the bread-board to rise for a short time. Fry in deep fat like a doughnut. Serve with maple syrup. Graham Fritters. — Make a regular muffin batter. Have a kettle of hot fat, deep enough and hot enough to cook doughnuts. Dip a tablespoon into milk, take up a spoonful of the batter, smooth it in rounded form on top, and slip it carefully into the smoking fat, hold- ing the tablespoon quite near the fat. Then dip the tablespoon in milk again and repeat the operation until about 6 muffins (or half the batter) are in the kettle. Turn the muffins and let them cook about 10 minutes. Take them up with a wire spoon to drain them, and lay them on coarse brown paper to absorb any grease on the outside. Fry the remaining muffins and serve them. I The true value of salads is not yet wholly- appreciated, nor yet the different combina- tions of which they are susceptible, nor the little economies which they may tastefully mask, nor the epicurean extravagance to which they may cater. Granted that lettuce be the leading green ; by the addition of fish, meat, vegetables, etc., upward of a hundred different salads may be con- cocted. When lettuce is not available, celery supplies its place, though in rather mediocre fashion. Fresh salads should not lie long in water, the withered only long enough to crisp the leaves. The outer ones to be thrown away, the inner ones to be parted, well rinsed and examined, and if necessary plunged into salt and water for a few min- utes. This may free the leaves from any insects that may cling to them. Lettuce can be kept crisp and fresh for several days if necessary by placing the roots in water. Do not let the water come up as high as the leaves. When ready to serve the lettuce wash it, leaf by leaf, in a pan of cold water and drop each leaf into another pan of ice water. It will become crisp in a few minutes. Shake the water from the leaves before serving. It is not necessary to have fresh and green things for all salads. It is often the case that a small portion of food left over from a meal can be used to make a nice salad. A saucer of cold beans, either baked or boiled, especially limas, a couple of cold potatoes with a small minced onion, some chopped parsley, a slice or two of beet and a hard-boiled egg ; a little cold fish freed from bones and skin ; cold veal, lamb or chicken, will each make a nice salad with the aid of a few lettuce leaves, a little chopped celery (for the meat salads) and a mayonnaise. A bottle of good salad dressing is a good thing to have in the house for use in emergencies, but if you are an adept at making mayonnaise you will prefer, as a rule, to make your own dressing. Convenience, utility and toothsomeness are among the qualifica- tions of good salads, but when we add to these their unquestioned 277 278 SALADS. claims toward the healthful nourishment of the human body, we have an article of food not to be lightly treated. " Salad is nature's lubri- cant for the animal machine," says Mrs. Rorer, one of the modern authorities on cookery. " People who do not eat salads have pimples and blotches and headaches." The olive, that is the basis of all mayonnaise dressings, is one of the best healing and fattening substances to be found, and thin and nervous people especially should learn to use it freely. Salads are served at dinners as a separate course, usually having bread sticks, water crackers or toasted crackers served with them. Or, sometimes they are served with the game course. A new fad is that cream cheese, home-made currant jelly and fresh unsweetened water crackers are fashionably and most acceptably served with crisp lettuce leaves with a French dressing. The com- bination of flavors is to many tastes a very pleasant one. Every woman should learn the art of dressing a green salad at the table, for a salad dressed before it is served loses delicacy of flavor. The salad greens should be carefully dried. It is better not to use a steel knife to cut it up if it can be avoided. Some people always pull the leaves into small pieces, others cut the lettuce with a silver fruit knife. Most people like a slight flavor of chopped or grated onion. Some rub the salad bowl with a piece of cut garlic, while others invariably use a little tarragon vinegar. The oil should be very fresh, and if the vinegar is too sour, a piece or two of sugar should be added to the dressing. French dressing can be made at table very nicely. The salad of whatever kind must be served in a glass salad bowl, says custom, and it must always have at least an encircling wreath of green leaves to frame it. Meat of any kind used for salads should be cut into dice, but not smaller than one-half inch or it will seem like hash. A new way of serving any finely cut salad is to take a large green cucumber, cut the ends off and take a slice lengthwise from one side until the heart is reached. Remove this carefully and fill the little green boat with salad. Let it rest on a bed of lettuce leaves and serve one to each person present. Vegetable salads are delicious and serve to spur the jaded appe- tite. Speaking in generalities, the principal vegetables and their ap- SALADS. 279 propriate dressings are as follows : Asparagus, cauliflower, tomatoes are served with mayonnaise. Cabbage, cucumbers, lettuce, dandelion, green beans, cooked, are served with French dressing. Potato salad with cream dressing. Cabbage and tomatoes also may be served with a boiled dressing. These rules, however, are not arbitrary, as there are other delicious made dressings used with these salads. Cliicken Salad. — One large, cold, boiled chicken, 3 heads of celery, white part, cut in small dice. Equal amount of white cab- bage, chopped. Remove skin and fat from the chicken, cut the light and dark meat in small dice and drop the whites of the eggs. Mix all together. Dressing. — Ten hard-boiled eggs, 1 tablespoonful ground mustard, 1 teaspoonful, level, of black pepper, one-half teaspoonful salt, two- thirds cupful salad oil or melted butter, 1 cupful vinegar. Rub the yolks of the eggs with the oil or butter (oil taken from the chicken liquor is better in this case than either), stir in the mustard, pepper, salt and vinegar. Mix this dressing up with the salad. Shape as compactly in the salad bowl as possible. Garnish with a double row of olives (serve two or three with each helping of salad), or with some greens. Cabbage can be used entirely if celery is not conve- nient. In this case a heaping teaspoonful of celery seed soaked over night in the vinegar will improve the flavor. Strain before using. Equal parts of chicken and veal make a delicious salad, and are very convenient w^here the chicken is scanty. Lean, fresh pork can be used to " piece out." Chicken Salad with Cooked Dressing-. — Take 1-pound can of chicken, cut fine and season to taste with salt and pepper ; take the perfect, outer leaves of a head of lettuce to place on the salad dish, and the inner crisp leaves cut fine, and mix with the seasoned chicken. Wash all the lettuce ; place the mixed chicken and lettuce on the leaves in the dish and put in a cool place until ready to serve. It is best to make the dressing in the morning, cool and not mix the salad until wanted, as the lettuce will not keep crisp long. Dressing. — Four well-beaten eggs, half teaspoonful salt, 1 level teaspoonful mustard, dissolving in 1 tablespoonful vinegar, 3 tea- spoonfuls sugar, half cupful vinegar, half cupful sour cream, half cupful vinegar. Cook by putting bowl in a pan of boiling water, stir constantly until it thickens, cool before pouring over salad. 280 SALADS. Chicken Salad with Cream Dressing. — Make the salad accord- ing to the first rule, using, if it is to be a company dish, the white meat only, and for dressing take Cream Dressing, given in " Salad Dressings." Do not mix up with the salad, but pour over the top. Chicken Salad en Mayonnaise. — Boil a chicken until it is ten- der. When it is cold cut the meat into small pieces. Then mix with mayonnaise dressing. Take fresh curled lettuce leaves, and in each place a generous salad spoonful of the " dressed " chicken and spread over a spoonful of mayonnaise, a sufficient quantity of this having been put aside before the mixing. Upon the yellow of the " dress- ing" on each lettuce leaf about a dozen capers should be sprinkled. Tiu'key Salad. — Take equal parts of the white meat of the tur- key and blanched celery, chop together until fine. Boil 3 eggs hard, remove the yolks and add the whites cut in bits to the salad. Mash the yolks of the eggs to a flour, add sweet cream gradually until you have a cup of egg cream ; flavor this with onion juice, salt and pep- per. Now add 2 tablespoonfuls of oil and 6 of vinegar and pour over the salad. Place on ice half an hour before it goes to table. Melted butter can be used in place of the salad oil. A mayonnaise dressing can also be used. Dnck Salad. — A delicious salad may be made with duck. Boil a duck until it is tender and remove the meat from the bones. When cold take a sharp knife and cut the meat into small pieces. Cook half a can of small mushrooms and cut them in quarters. Have as much crisp-cut celery as you have mushrooms. Fill a flat dish with lettuce leaves, and lay the pieces of duck on the lettuce, then the mushrooms and the celery. Garnish the dish with sliced cucumbers and stars cut from cooked carrots. Serve with French dressing, or mayonnaise if preferred. Veal Salad. — Chop a piece of lean, cold veal (roast or boiled). Add nearly as much celery or cold boiled potatoes, cut into dice, and season with celery salt if celery cannot be obtained. Mix when cold with the following dressing : One cupful of sweet cream, 1 table- spoonful sugar. Put in a double boiler on the stove until hot. Then add 3 eggs well beaten and 1 cupful vinegar. Almost any preferred salad dressing can be used. Corned Beef Salad. — Chop 1 or 2 pounds of cold corned beef fiine, then take two thirds cup vinegar, 1 tablespoon mustard and 1 SALADS. 281 egg ; beat all together and pour into the frying-pan, and let it boil up ; then stir in the chopped meat thoroughly, cook about 3 minutes, and put in a deep dish to cool ; cut in slices. Haiu Salad. — One cup of cold ham chopped (from which all fat has been cut away), 1 cup of sliced cucumber pickles, 3 hard-boiled eggs. Arrange ham and cucumbers in layers, saving sliced eggs for top ; pour cream dressing over ; garnish with olives (looks well with only the eggs for garnish). Serve with the following dressing, or any other preferred one : One tablespoonful butter, 1 tablespoonful mustard, 1 tablespoonful sugar (may be omitted if wished), 1 table- spoonful flour, a very little red pepper, yolk of 1 egg, 1 cupful vine- gar. Heat vinegar and butter together. When boiling stir in the other ingredients, which have been previously well mixed. Cook 3 minutes. A good dressing and will keep several days if bottled. Tong-ue Salad. — The small end of a cold boiled tongue can be utilized for an appetizing salad. Chop fine and add an equal quantity of celery or lettuce, and dressing from any of the above rules. Cold Pork Salad. — Very nice salad can be made from the lean of cold roast pork. Prepare sauce as for veal salad. Liainb Salad. — Any nice cold lamb left from dinner can be used for this purpose. Cut into small pieces and add an equal quantity of celery or lettuce shredded fine, or cold boiled potatoes cut into dice and seasoned with celery salt. For the dressing take 1 tablespoon- ful of butter, 1 tablespoonful of sugar, 2 eggs well beaten, 1 table- spoonful of flour, half a teacupful of vinegar. Cook until it thickens. Sweet-Bread Salad. — Clean and cook a pair of sweet-breads ac- cording to directions given in " Meats." When cold slice, mix with chopped lettuce or celery, and one-half the amount of cold boiled potatoes sliced. Serve with any prepared dressing. Line the salad bowl with lettuce leaves. Oyster and Celery Salad. — One quart of oysters drained and cut in dice, 1 bunch of celery cut in bits. Keep the oysters in a cool place. Dressing. — One raw Q^^, yolks of 2 hard boiled eggs, 1 table- spoonful olive oil or melted butter, 1 teaspoonful each of pepper, salt and made mustard, half a cupful of vinegar. Whip the raw egg with the oil or butter. Rub the hard boiled yolks with the seasoning. Mix with the raw &^^ and beat in the vinegar slowly. Mix the oysters and celery together with one-half the dressing. Turn in the 282 SALADS. salad, first lining it with lettuce leaves. Pour over it the remainder of the dressing. Garnish. Lobster Salad. — Take a good sized fresh boiled lobster, cut into small pieces with a sharp knife. Take 1 large or 2 small heads of lettuce, wash, cut the tender inside leaves in small pieces and mix with the lobster and some of the dressing. Take a flat dish and arrange the larger leaves (not the outside ones) in shells, and put a large spoonful in each with a spoonful of dressing on top. Dressing. — One tablespoonful mustard, 1 tablespoonful sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls melted butter or olive oil, 4 tablespoonfuls of sweet or sour milk, 1 cupful of vinegar, 2 eggs. Mix the mustard in part of the vinegar, add the rest of the vinegar and sugar. Beat the eggs and butter and stir in the milk, then stir the whole into the vinegar and mustard, add a pinch of salt and set on the stove to boil. Stir briskly or it will burn. This must be very cold before using. This dressing is also good on chicken salad, substituting cold boiled chicken for lobster. It is better not to mix the lobster and lettuce until just before serving. Set on ice until wanted. Lobster Salad. — II. The meat from 2 boiled lobsters picked fine. Mix with the same quantity of lettuce, cabbage or celery cut fine. Or, instead of mixing, put lobster and lettuce or cabbage in the dish in alternate layers. Make the following dressing and pour over the whole when ready to serve. Dressing. — Yolk of 3 hard boiled eggs rubbed fine, 3 tablespoon- fuls of melted butter or salad oil, 1 teaspoonful each of mustard, pepper and salt, 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar, 1 cupful of vinegar. Beat together thoroughly. Garnish the salad bowl with the whites of the eggs cut in rings. Lay each white ring on a small, curly lettuce leaf. The small claws of the lobster are also used by some with the green garnish. Salmon Salad. — One can of salmon, drain from the oil. The same amount of celery or lettuce chopped, pick the salmon in flakes. Arrange the salmon and celery in layers in the salad bowl, and pour over it the following dressing : Dressing. — One-quarter cupful vinegar, 1 teaspoonful mustard, 1 tablespoonful sugar, 1 tablespoonful flour, 2 well-beaten eggs, pepper and salt to taste. Some cooks omit sugar ; some use cayenne pep- per. If too thick, thin carefully with a little milk or cream. SALADS. 283 Fish Salad — Nearly all kinds of cold fish can be made into salads. Free the fish from skin and bone, flake or chop coarsely. Add to it the same quantity of chopped cabbage, celery or lettuce. Line the salad bowl with lettuce leaves, if convenient. Heap in the salad lightly and pour over it mayonnaise or some preferred salad dressing; some of those used for salmon dressing will be found good. Garnish with tiny pickles and slices of hard-boiled eggs. Crab Salad. — Boil 25 hard-shell crabs for about 20 or 25 minutes. When cool remove the top shell and tail ; quarter the remainder, and pick out the meat carefully with a fork. The large claws should not be overlooked, nor the fat which adheres to the shell. Cut up an amount of celery equal in bulk to the crab meat ; mix both together with a plain salad dressing. Put in a salad bowl, and mask with a mayonnaise dressing ; garnish with crab claws, shrimps and hard- boiled eggs. Anchovy Salad. — Remove the bones, head and tails of 6 anchovies. Wash 2 heads of lettuce, cut them small, and place on a dish. Add 6 button onions chopped finely, parsley, sliced lemon, and anchovies. Pour over the juice of a lemon mixed with a tablespoonful of oil. Shrimp Salad. — Line a salad bowl with fresh lettuce leaves ; open a can of shrimps, put on the lettuce, pour over mayonnaise dressing, garnish with rings of hard-boiled eggs. Egg Salad. — Chop heart lettuce, or else tender cabbage, or celery or a mixture, and season with salt, pepper and vinegar (oil if liked), and with a teaspoon place it as a border on the dishes. Slice hard- boiled eggs and put 4 slices to each individual dish. Pour over the eggs either a salad dressing made without oil or a mayonnaise. Or use this : Take a bowl that will fit the top of your tea-kettle; put in it 1 egg, beaten thoroughly, quarter cup of vinegar, half teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoonful of mustard. Steam it over the kettle until it thickens like cream. When cold pour over the eggs and sprinkle pepper over the whole. The eggs may be sliced. Sardine Salad en Mayonnaise. — Chop very fine a small head of cabbage and 4 or 5 sardines ; cover with a mayonnaise dressing and serve on lettuce leaves with a whole .sardine on top of each one. Any lobster salad dressing can be used in place of the mayonnaise. Chestnut Salad. — Made from the large Italian chestnuts. These are blanched and peeled and cooked until tender, in boiling water, 284 SALADS. slightly salted. They are then taken out and carefully dried, when they are sliced and tossed into a little mayonnaise and shirred on let^ tuce hearts. Try this for an entree of your Thanksgiving dinner, and we are convinced it will prove satisfactory. Walnut Salad. — A delicious salad combines English walnuts, water-cresses and sour oranges. You will need thirty nuts with the meats divided in halves ; lay these on a layer of the oranges, sliced thin, and sprinkle them well with lemon juice. Stand in a cool place for half a day, and when ready to use arrange in a bed of cresses, a pint at least, and serve with a French dressing and wafers. Celery Salad. — One good-sized bunch of celery ; 2 tablespoon- fuls best salad oil, 1 of vinegar, half a teaspoonful of salt and a few grains of cayenne. Wash and scrape the celery and lay in cold water an hour. Cut in half inch bits, or chop coarsely if preferred, and put in a salad bowl. Mix the pepper and salt, add the oil slowly and then the vinegar, and stir thoroughly into the celery. Serve with crackers and cheese. Equal parts of celery and chopped white cab- bage can be used if celery is not plentiful. Waldorf Celery Salad. — Equal quantities of celery and chopped raw sour apples dressed with mayonnaise dressing. This is served with game, being in reality a game salad. Alligator pears may be used instead of apples. Celery Slaw. — Take 1 root of good white celery and cut off all the green leaves, put it in the tray and chop fine, then put it in a dish and salt it, and put 3 tablespoons of sugar over it and the same of vinegar, and let it stand about 5 minutes, and when ready put it on the table ; put 3 tablespoons of cream over it ; it is very nice. The cream can be omitted if desired. Cabbage Salad a la Creme. — Cut a solid, tender head of cabbage very fine, and place it in a deep dish. Put in a saucepan over a rather hot fire 1 cupful of thick sour cream. Stir in while heating 1 well- beaten egg. Add half a teaspoonful each of made mustard and sugar, and butter the size of an egg, with a dash of red pepper and salt. While cooking stir in half a cupful of strong vinegar. This makes a smooth, thick dressing, with a delicate creamy taste. Pour over the cabbage while hot and mix thoroughly. One-half as much chopped celery can be added to the cabbage as a great improvement- A little more sugar can be added to the dressing if liked. SALADS. 285 Cabbag-e Salad, Hot, with Cooked Dressing-. — One head of cab- bage chopped fine, 3 hard-boiled eggs chopped. Salt and pepper to taste. Cold Slaw. — Raw cabbage, chopped fine, seasoned with salt, pep- per, sugar, and moistened with vinegar, makes an excellent salad. It may be served with this dressing : Two level tablespoons each of salt and white sugar, 1 of black pepper, 1 of ground mustard ; rub smoothly the yolks of 4 hard-boiled eggs, add half a cup of butter slightly warmed, mix with the cabbage (this will be sufficient for 2 quarts) and add a teacup of vinegar. Serve with the whites of the eggs sliced and placed on the salad. Cold Slaw a la Creme. — Shave one-fourth of a cabbage quite fine and roll with a rolling pin to soften it ; mix thoroughly with a little salt, pepper, sugar and vinegar ; throw over this a half cupful of sweet cream, and allow it to stand before serving. Hot Slaw. — Take one-half of a firm, white head of cabbage, cut into fine pieces and put in a pan with a teaspoonful of salt, about the same quantity of pepper and a piece of butter the size of an egg, adding a teacupful of vinegar and half that quantity of water. Cover and cook until cabbage becomes tender. Stir frequently. Potato Salad. — Chop 6 or 8 cold boiled potatoes, mince 1 onion. Mix with the following dressing : One-half cupful vine- gar, 1 tablespoonful melted butter, or salad oil, pepper and salt to taste, add a little chopped parsley, stir thoroughly, mound it up nicely on a pretty plate and put sprays of parsley around the edge, or serve lightly tossed in a salad bowl. If there is not enough moisture, add a little more vinegar and butter, a salad do not want to be too mealy. Potato Salad. — II. Slice cold boiled potatoes, 8 or 10, mince a large onion, mix, season with pepper and salt, and pour over them in the salad bowl any of the hot boiled dressings used for cabbage slaw. Serve hot or let become perfectly cold. Garnish with parsley. Onion can be omitted if not liked. Potato Salad with a Frencb Dressing-. — Prepare the potatoes as above, season with chopped parsley, pour over them a French dressing. Potato Slicer. Potatoes for 286 SALADS. Mrs. Y.'s Potato Salad Dressing-. — Butter size of a large egg. Two medium sliced onions fried in the butter 5 minutes without browning. Yolks of 4 eggs, or 2 whole eggs, beaten light, 1 tea- spoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful sugar, half teaspoonful pepper, 1 cupful vinegar. Grate the rind of 1 lemon, add these to the butter and onions and cook to the consistency of thick creani, taking care it does not burn. When cold add 2 tablespoonfuls of cream or rich milk. Slice 10 or 12 medium sized cold boiled potatoes, turn the dressing over them just before serving. This is sufficient for a family of 8 people. Lettuce Salad. — Rub the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs to a smooth paste with 2 tablespoonfuls of salad oil (or butter), then add one-half a teaspoonful of salt, 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and one- half a teacupful of powdered sagar. Pour it over the lettuce and serve. Lemon Lettuce Salad. — A refreshing way to serve lettuce is to make a dressing flavored with lemon. First cut the lettuce small, then squeeze a small lemon or half a large one into a tumbler, add a little sugar, a little water and a good pinch of salt, and pour the mix- ture all over the lettuce. Lettuce and Egg Salad. — A nice salad is made with hard-boiled eggs, and lettuce or water-cress alternating in a dish, and covering with French dressing, or any preferred dressing. Lettuce in Southern Style. — Have the lettuce very cold and crisp and arrange in layers in a salad bowl, sprinkling each layer with the best vinegar and adding a slight powdering of fine white sugar. Tomato Salad, Cooked Dressing-. — Peel and slice the tomatoes and set on ice. Make the following dressing : Yolks of 2 eggs, or 1 whole egg, lightly beaten, 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar, 1 tablespoon- ful of melted butter or salad oil, 1 teaspoonful made mustard, or half as much dry mustard, ] teaspoonful salt, half teaspoonful pepper, 1 cupful vinegar. Heat slowly, stirring constantly until thick. Pour the dressing over the tomatoes when it is cold. Garnish with lettuce or sliced hard-boiled eggs. Tomato Salad, Cold Dressing-. — Peel and slice tomatoes, set on ice. Prepare the following dressing : 1 egg, beaten light, 2 teaspoonfuls sugar, 3 tablespoonfuls vinegar, 1 onion, minced, 1 teaspoonful salt, a pinch of cayenne pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls salad oil, or melted butter. Mix thoroughly, adding oil last. Arrange tomatoes nicely in a salad bowl, in a be 1 of lettuce leaves if possible, and pour this dressing over. SALADS. 287 Mayonnaise Tomato Salad. — Pare medium, round, ripe tomatoes one for each person ; put on ice. Do not scald them. Cut out the stem end, and scoop out a very httle of the inside. Make little nests of tender, green lettuce leaves arranged on a large, flat dish, and place a tomato in each nest. Put in the hollow (where the stem was removed) of each tomato a large teaspoonful of thick mayonnaise sauce and serve immediately. Another way is to slice the tomatoes after they are pared, arrange them on a dish, with or without lettuce leaves, pour over them mayonnaise, chop the whites of the hard- boiled eggs and scatter over the tomatoes. Garnish with parsley. When tomatoes first come and are expensive the most beautiful salad course for eight people can be made from four small tomatoes and a head of lettuce. Freshen the lettuce in cold water, have the pared tomatoes on ice. Arrange little cups of two or three leaves of the lettuce, and lay in each a half tomato. Dot with a spoonful of may- onnaise, and serve at once. Canned Tomato Salad. — Canned tomatoes drained, mixed with a little chopped or sliced onion and celery seed, and serve on lettuce leaves with French or mayonnaise dressing. Deviled Tomato Salad, Hot. — Two tablespoonfuls of butter, 1 teaspoonful of mustard, 1 raw egg, 2 tablespoonfuls of hot vinegar, 1 level teaspoonful of powdered sugar, one-quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of pepper to every 3 tomatoes are needed. Select tomatoes that are large, ripe and firm, pour over them enough boiling water to loosen the skins, peel, and cut in thick slices. The sauce may be served hot or cold. In combining it, cream the butter, add to it the powdered sugar and the mustard, and mix well. Add the salt and pepper, and rub into the mixture the yolk of a hard-boiled ^g?- For this it is better to use a little sieve. Heat the vinegar, then add that, and finally a beaten raw egg. Set over hot water and cook until the consistency of a thick cream. When ready to use, put a tablespoonful of butter in a stew-pan, add the slices of tomato, and when hot serve on a garnished dish, and turn the sauce over them. Tomato and Celery Salad. — Very delicate. After a heavy din- ner a meat salad is best replaced by one of tomatoes and celery that is neither difficult nor expensive. One can of tomatoes should be stewed with a pinch of salt for a few moments, then rubbed through 288 SALADS. a sieve and the red juice thickened with a little gelatine; a table- spoonful is sufficient. The tomatoes can be put in mould to form, or merely left to cool and solidify in a salad bowl. If a mould is used, turn the tomato jelly, when cold, into a salad bowl, heap round it shredded celery, and pour over jelly and celery a liberal supply of either rich mayonnaise, or cream salad dressing, and serve with small salted crackers. Vegetable Salad. — Of vegetable salads the name is legion. Almost any cold cooked vegetable can be used. The chief thing to remember is to obtain a contrast of color to please the eye, and, if possible, have the vegetable of delicate flavor for the main part of the salad. Asparagus, cauliflower, beans, peas and carrots combine well. Potatoes, cauliflower, beets and carrots go well together. One or two vegetables can be used alone. Use any kind of dressing, and garnish with uncooked cucumber, tomato, lettuce and an}^ handsome fresh greens. Use any remnants of vegetables from yesterday's dinner — green peas or beans, boiled potatoes, slices of beets, green onions or celery ; cut small and heap together on leaves of fresh let- tuce. Mayonnaise dressing, cream salad dressing, etc., are all good. Beet Salad. — Take young beets, boil until tender, cut in small pieces and set on ice ; add one finely-minced onion. Make a dress- ing of 1 pint of vinegar, 3 tablespoonfuls of oil, salt and pepper. Have chopped fine 2 hard-boiled eggs, lay over the beets, garnish with water-cresses, pour over the dressing and serve. Or, line a bowl with lettuce leaves, or water-cress, lay in the beets, and turn over them a teacupful of plain salad dressing. Set on ice till chilled. If liked, slice onions and alternate with the beets. Beets may be sliced and have a squeeze of lemon juice over them instead of the vinegar. Hot Beet Salad. — Boil 5 large or 8 small beets until soft ; peel and sHce. Put in saucepan 1 cup milk, one-half cup water, one-fourth cup vinegar, 1 tablespoonful butter, a little celery salt and a little cayenne pepper. When boiling put in beets. Water-Cress Salad. — To make a delicious water-cress salad, let some water-cress stand in cold water for half an hour until it becomes very crisp. Dry thoroughly without bruising it. Mix with a French dressing and add a few thin slices of sour apples. Water-cress is very nice served simply as a relish to be eaten with salt. SALADS. 289 Mushroom Salad. — Mince the mushrooms into dice and put them in a pan with a little oil or butter and a few slices of peeled lemon ; let them simmer in this till done, then set them aside till quite cold. Now lay them in a salad dish with chopped parsley and chives, pep- per and salt, and either a French oil and vinegar dressing or a good mayonnaise. Carrot Salad. — Put 6 carrots to boil in plenty of water ; when half done remove and throw out water and put on to finish in fresh water; when done take out, cool and cut into one-half inch dice. Make a dressing of 1 small teacupful of vinegar, 4 tablespoonfuls of melted butter, the yolk of one hard-boiled egg, with a little salt and pepper. Line a dish with crisp lettuce leaves; add two-thirds of the dressing, then the carrot dice, then the remainder of the dressing. A novel and ornamental dish. Cauliflower Salad. — Boil a cauliflower until it breaks easily; let it drain until perfectly cold. Shred the heart of a white cabbage lettuce and mince together a small onion, a few sprigs of parsley and grate finely a tablespoonful of horseradish. Place the lettuce first in the bowl, next the sprigs of cauliflower, and sprinkle the other in- gredients over all. Mix a dressing as follows, and pour that over all : A spoonful of made mustard, the beaten yolk of an egg, 2 spoon- fuls of oil or melted butter, 1 of vinegar and a tablespoonful of .salt. Spanish Salad. — (Rich). One cupful of Spanish olives chopped, 1 cupful of stale bread cut in dice, one-half cupful gherkins chopped, 1 cupful of mayonnaise dressing garnished with red peppers chopped fine. Bean Salad. — Young beans make an excellent salad. String them and cut in inch lengths and boil in salt and water until tender, drain well, and to a quart of beans add a chopped onion ; take 3 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 2 of salad oil or melted butter, salt and pepper to taste. Beat the vinegar and butter together, add the sea- soning and pour over the beans and onions ; mix well and set away for an hour or two before using. Baked Bean Salad. — If a jar of beans is baked once a week it will be found a good thing to have on hand. Warming over only improves them, and if one wishes a salad, chop some of the beans with a raw onion or two, dress with vinegar, melted butter, pepper and salt if found necessary or desirable. Slices of pork which were 19 290 SALADS. baked with the beans may be served with the salad. Lima beans, potatoes and boiled beats, all thoroughly chilled, can be served together in a salad. Slice potatoes and beets. Use a French dress- ing or any salad dressing. Dandelion Salad. — Dandelion appears with the first days of the spring. It must be small and white to be tender and sweet. If it is old, large and green, it is tough and has become too bitter to be used for salad. Cut the root off and wash the leaves with care, as, like field salad, it contains a great deal of sand. Drain, dress with salt, pepper and vinegar, or with a regular French dressing. A slice or two of finely-minced onion may be mixed with the dandelions. Cucumber Salad. — Cucumbers should never be placed on the table until they have been pared and sliced and laid for an hour or two in ice-water. To prepare for the table, take the salad bowl and and put in it a French dressing made with equal amounts of vinegar and oil, say 3 tablespoonfuls of each, 1 tablespoonful of the vinegar being tarragon vinegar, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful pepper. Stand on ice a few minutes, then stir in the sliced cucumber, a very little finely minced onion can be added, if wished, or the bowl can be rubbed with a crushed clove of garlic, as also the salad spoon and fork. Do not mix with the dressing until just before you serve. To serve cucumbers plain, simply slice, with pepper, salt and vinegar ; to most tastes they are improved by the addition of sliced onions. Cucumber salad is delicious to serve with boiled or baked bass. Onion Salad. — Cut up 3 dozen young spring onions and cover with a French dressing. Garnish with hard-boiled eggs. Savory Fruit Salads. Epicures have recently decided that fruits as well as vegetables can be served with salad dressings and make their appearance at the dinner table, masked in French or mayonnaise dressing. To prepare oranges for a salad, slice them very thin ; serve in flat plates, and let each guest prepare her own dressing of vinegar, oil, pepper and salt. Mayonnaise is a trifle too heavy for the fibres of oranges, but it serves excellently on shaddocks (or grape fruits), that do not possess so delicate a flavoring as their smaller relatives. When preparing the latter it is wiser to cut the slices into quarters, innocent of rind, for Otherwise they are unwieldy. The small toothsome alligator pear is SALADS. 291 palatable with either dressing, but those whose palates are hard to tickle lean toward the pleasant tang of vinegar and oil, unmixed with egg. A few housewives have introduced these fruits on crisp lettuce leaves ; the blending of green with yellow lends a pleasant artistic touch and the result of it being eaten together is — " not half bad." Apple Salad. — One bunch of celery cut fine, 3 large apples, cut in small pieces with celery. Dressing, 2 eggs, one-half cup sugar, 1 teaspoonful mustard, one-half teaspoonful salt, a little butter and pepper, 1 cup of vinegar ; boil a few minutes and pour over hot. Tart apples may also be cut up with young onions, with oil, vinegar and cayenne. Orange Salad. — Use tart oranges. Slice them very thin, cutting down the sides instead of across, arrange them in a dish with pecan or walnut meats, and pour over them a dressing made of 2 table- spoonfuls of lemon juice to 3 of oil, with salt and cayenne pepper to taste ; or sprinkle a little sugar over the oranges, with some sherry and half as much maraschino as sherry. Both salads should be very cold. The first one is particularly good with game, and the latter is often served in place of a sherbet before the game. Salad Dressings. Mayonnaise dressing is ordinarily given for all meat salads, and it and French dressing are the only two in general use. One made with cooked eggs is, however, much richer and can be trusted to give far greater satisfaction for chicken, lobster and oysters. The mayon- naise being more delicate and including no mustard, is better for eggs and for simple greens. The French recipe, as every one knows, includes no eggs, and is delicious upon crisp lettuce, dandelion greens, cold vegetables and the like, besides which, it can be quickly made and is at its best when prepared at the table, just at the mo- ment of serving. Mayonnaise is the basis for a number of sauces. The juice of boiled parsley colors it green and pounded lobster shell renders it coral. Tartare sauce is mayonnaise made with tarragon vinegar, and with the addition of capers, a little chopped pickle and a slight flavor of chives. Another excellent sauce is mayonnaise mixed with chopped cucumber, or grated horseradish. When cold fowl or meat is used in a salad, it should always be dressed with oil and vin- egar before the mayonnaise is added. 292 SALADS. Mayonnaise Sancc. — Put the yolks of 2 eggs in a very cold soup plate and beat until light, add half a teaspoonful of salt, half a tea- spoonful of dry mustard, a shake of cayenne pepper, a teaspoonful of powdered sugar and beat again. Now stir in, a drop at a time, half a pint of olive oil, stirring constantly one way all the time. When the mixture gets too stiff to stir add a few drops of lemon juice or vinegar, then the oil again, drop by drop, until you have used 2 table- spoonfuls of vinegar or lemon juice and all the oil. If too thick when ready to use, a few drops of vinegar may be used to thin it. Never put mayonnaise on a salad until the very last moment before serving, or it will liquefy. If there is a tendency to curdle put back on ice a few minutes and stir hard. Some cooks, to prevent this curdling, add half a teaspoonful of the white of an egg before stirring in the oil. If it does not thicken properly, add more oil. If it is not put on the salad before serving, pass it around in a glass or silver pitcher. Vinegar can be used instead of lemon juice, or they can be used half and half. This will keep some time and may be made when yolks are left over from baking cake. Bottle, using a glass stopper, or put in a glass can, screwing on the cover. Keep on ice. Do not break the yolk until the oil is dropped and the two can be stirred together. The trouble of which so many beginners complain — the curdling of the oil — comes from breaking and stirring the egg. The simple precaution mentioned will effectually prevent all difficulty of the sort, and if care be taken will ensure a smooth dressing. Stir the oil in very slowly at first, when well started a little more briskly, but never pour it in with anything like haste. The dressing, when finished, should be about the color of boiled custard, and much thicker. By using the whites of eggs a white mayonnaise sauce may be obtained. Even the bowl in which a mayonnaise is made should be kept on ice to chill it, as well as the oil, eggs and vinegar used in making it. French Dressing-, — This is simply two-thirds oil and one-third vinegar, 1 saltspoonful of salt and one-half saltspoonful of pepper. Place the greens for salad in the bowl. Dissolve the salt and pepper in one tablespoonful of oil and pour over the surface, then the re- mainder of the oil and toss thoroughly. Pour over all the vinegar, toss again and serve. It is very nice to prepare this at table, measur- SALADS. 293 ing the ingredients in the wooden saladspoon. Part, or entirely lemon juice can be used instead of vinegar. Some tastes prefer a very little made mustard added to this dressing. If the taste of the oil is preferred, use the oil first in the dressing, if not use the vinegar first, for where one holds vantage ground first, the other cannot remain. Salad Dressing- without Oil. — For the benefit of those persons by whom oil is not relished, a good dressing may be made in this manner : Rub the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs till quite smooth, adding a teaspoonful of mixed mustard, one-fourth the volume of white pepper, half a saltspoonful of salt, a pinch of cayenne and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar. Mix these thoroughly and add cream and vinegar in equal proportions to make the mixture of the desired consistency. Boiled Salad Dressing- (Cheap and Good). — One heaping tea- spoonful of mustard ; 1 tablespoonful of sugar; 1 tablespoonful of melted butter or salad oil ; 2 tablespoonfuls of cream or buttermilk, sweet milk or sour; 6 tablespoonfuls of vinegar; 1 egg. Mix the mustard smoothly in part of the vinegar, add the remainder of the vinegar and sugar. Beat the egg and butter or oil together, stir in the cream or milk and pour into the vinegar and mustard, mixing well. Let it boil a few moments, stirring briskly. Cool before using. It will keep several days, is good and cheap, and can be used with lettuce or cold meat ; fowl, potatoes, or any cold pieces are made palatable by using this dressing. Cream Salad Dressing-. — Beat the yolks of 3 eggs till light and thick ; add a teaspoonful of mustard, also 1 of salt, speck of cayenne pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar, same of melted butter, 1 cup of cream or milk, and half a cup of vinegar ; then add the whites of the 3 eggs, beaten stiff. Put all together in a double boiler; boil until thick, stirring well while cooking. Bottle tightly. Kept in a cool place will keep for two or three weeks. Cream Dressing. — The fortunate country housewives who have thick cream can make a delicious dressing by diluting it with one- fourth vinegar, seasoning it with salt, pepper and mustard, adding a teaspoonful of sugar. mmrGAKEs Baking-. — Flour should always be kept dry, as the least dampness will af- fect it. Bread made with milk will be whiter and better than where water is used. The milk should be boiled, not simply heated and not allowed '' to be below a lukewarm temperature when mixed with flour. Many housekeepers, however, do not boil the milk, but only warm it. Milk-bread needs little or no shortening, and less flour is required than is the case where water is used. It also requires less knead- ing. An earthen vessel should be used in preference to wood or tin, as it can be kept cleaner than the former and will protect the temperature of "the sponge" better than the latter. One cup of yeast means wet yeast. If dry is used, the cup must be filled with warm water. Bread and biscuit should rise in a mod- erately-warm place. If too cold it will be heavy; if too hot it will be sour. Should a batch of dough become sour, a teaspoonful of soda will help it, but this should be used only in an emergency. To have your bread rise very quickly, double the quantity of yeast, but watch it; do not let it sour. Bread should rise to twice its original size before it is ready to bake. Bake small loaves rather than large ones. Do not have the loaf too large for the pan ; it will be a bad shape. Biscuit and rolls require a hotter oven than bread and a longer time to rise. A little sugar or a little butter mixed with the rising will keep bread moist. Do not put a cloth around bread or biscuit if put in a tin box. In using baking-powder or other chemicals with salt, mix them thoroughly with the flour by twice putting all through the sieve together. An even teaspoonful of baking-powder to a cup- ful of flour is a good proportion. Two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar and one teaspoonful of soda are equal to two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. Always sift your flour. Brush the tops of the loaves with butter before putting in the oven. This keeps the crust moist. Brush with beaten ^^^ or sweet 294 BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 295 milk to give a glazed appearance. Raised biscuit rubbed over with butter before putting it in the tin will separate smoothly when baked. Test the oven by putting in a little flour on an old tin. If it browns in one minute the oven is at right heat. Keep the heat steady, and, as it lessens toward the end of the baking, put in the rolls and biscuit; after they have risen put on more heat and bake quickly. Flour can be sifted by the quantity. Baking-powder, in the pro- portion of two heaping tablespoonfuls to a quart, can be sifted with it, providing it can be set away in a tightly-covered pail. This is a great saving of time. Sift together two or three times. Self-raising flour and creamery-buttered flour can be bought anywhere. Graham flour and corn-meal should be bought in small quantities, as they spoil easily. One cup of flour means a full cup before sift- ing. Heat the bread-knife before slicing a warm loaf of bread or cake, and the slice will be smooth and even. Sprinkle a little sugar on top of the bread-dough after it is mixed at night and you will have no crust on it in the morning, after it has risen. When bread is baked remove immediately from the pans, stand on end, that the air may circulate freely around it. Do not open the oven-door after the bread is put in until it has had time to become somewhat firm. The cold air will have a tendency to make it heavy. Never leave the bread on a pine table to absorb the odor of the wood. If the crusts are liked crisp do not cover the loaves while cooling. To give a wafer-like softness, cover, while still hot, with several thicknesses of bread-cloth. One cup of yeast is equal to 1 cake of compressed yeast-cake. A stone jar is better than a tin box to keep bread moist. When the loaves are perfectly cold, unwrap and put in the jar ; cover this closely. Cleanse the jar from bread-crumbs and scald every two or three days. A yard and a half of cheap table linen makes the best bread-cloth ; old table-cloths are good for this purpose. Keep several so that they can be kept sweet and clean. Flour, age and quality, makes a great difference in the bread. It should be smooth to the touch, keep its shape if pressed in the hand, and will not absorb as much moisture as the more granular kind. It can be used equally well for bread, cake and pastry. A barrel of flour that will not make good bread to-day, simply because the wheat was too new when ground, will, if kept for two 29G BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. months, make perfect bread, if the yeast be good ; for, after all, the yeast is more frequently than the flour the cause of failure to make satisfactory bread. When it is purchased in small quantities there will always be an uncertainty as to how it will work until after the first time it is used. Even in small families it is better to get flour by the barrel, as it improves with age. Another thing for the house- keeper to remember is that the whitest flour is not the most nutri- tious. What is called first-quality flour does not contain nearly so large a quantity of the best elements of the wheat as the second quality, which is much darker, but gives a sweeter and more nutri- tious loaf. Serving- Butter. — Butter is one of the most delicate foods, and unless carefully preserved, the harbor of disease, not only holding, but attracting and developing foreign organic matter. At no time before serving should butter be exposed to the air. In well-kept boarding-houses and hotels, a cube of hard butter is put on a saucer and buried in shaved ice. With good bread and good coffee, a square inch of choice butter makes a breakfast. The common but- ter-patty is useless for this kind of service. Another method, suit- able for a private family, is the cracker jar, because it has a cover that fits. Cut the butter in inch squares, line the jar with crushed ice, and fill with butter and ice cubes ; serve both. There are prints on sale that cut cubes the size of loaf sugar ; they have economy and daintiness to commend their use. Send a pickle fork around with cracker jar to help the butter. When cut, the pieces should be thrown into cold water, so as to prevent their sticking together and losing shape. Left-over Bread. — Every housewife should look in the bread-jar every morning. The whole and half slices of stale bread may be used for toast, the smaller pieces to be toasted with care on a pan- cake griddle ; then put them into a vegetable dish and pour boiling water over 3 or 4 spoonfuls of butter. When ready to use, pour this over the toasted bread. Small pieces and crumbs can be used for dressing to stuff fowls with, or they may be placed on a tin in a warm oven and dried until a beautiful brown, rolled on a board until fine, and then kept in a box or glass jar to use in place of cracker crumbs for frying oysters and making croquettes. Be sure to roll them until fine, and do not use the pastry-board for this purpose, as the crumbs BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 297 will make it rough. Soft bread crumbs are good soaked in milk for griddle cakes ; stale bread can be utilized for a pudding. Care should be taken not to use a particle of bread which is mouldy or from a loaf which has moulded. Brown bread that has grown stale makes delicious milk toast. Brown biscuit can be used in the same way. Stale biscuits can be cut in three slices each, and browned in the oven for crisps, which are relished for breakfast. To utilize cold Johnny cake, cut the squares in two as you would a cold biscuit, and toast on a griddle. A loaf of stale bread can be made quite fresh by being dipped quickly into hot milk, and then baked until dry in a quick oven. Biscuits can be warmed to be as good as when just baked by placing them in the oven dry, covered closely with a tin. Or dip instantly in cold water, put in the oven and heat until soft, warm and light. Do not burn. If mush is rolled in flour before being fried, it will not absorb so much grease and it will have a delicious brown crust that cannot be obtained in any other way. To use very dry bread for any purpose, soak it in cold milk or water instead of hot. The hot fluids seem to take the life out of dry bread and render it soggy. The cold soaking leaves it flaky. Stale crackers which taste old can be made fresh by putting them on a tin in the oven and shaking them often until they heat through. Time for Baking-. — In baking bread, pies, cakes, etc., much de- pends on the heat of the oven. Biscuit and gingerbread need a quick oven; bread, a steady heat, not too hot. Fruit cake should be baked rather slowly and requires more cooking than a plain cake. Cookies want a quick oven and close attention or they will burn. Fruit pies, especially apple, should be baked rather slowly, so the fruit may be thoroughly cooked. Cake should not be disturbed while baking. Table of Proportions. Use 1 teaspoonful soda to 1 cupful molasses ; 1 teaspoonful soda to 1 pint sour milk ; 3 teaspoonfuls baking powder to 1 quart flour ; one-half cupful of yeast or one-quarter cake compressed yeast to 1 pint liquid ; 1 teaspoonful extract to 1 loaf plain cake ; 1 teaspoonful salt to 2 quarts flour ; 1 teaspoonful salt to 1 quart soup ; 1 scant cupful of liquid to 2 full cupfuls of flour for bread; 1 scant cupful of 298 BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. liquid to 2 full cupfuls of flour for muffins ; 1 scant cupful of liquid to 1 full cupful of flour for batters. Potato Yeast. — Pare and grate 4 medium potatoes, pour on 3 pints of boiling water, add 1 cup sugar, one-half cup salt, one-quarter cake compressed yeast, 1 cake of dry yeast, or 1 cupful of soft yeast, whichever is convenient. Let the batter cool partly before adding the yeast. Stir thoroughly. It will be light as a foam next day. Renew while there is still enough of the old yeast to start the new lot. Clean the yeast jug thoroughly before starting anew. One tea- cupful of this yeast will make 4 or 5 loaves of bread. Hop Yeast. — One pint hot mashed potatoes ; one-half pint salt ; one-half pint sugar ; one-half pint flour ; one-half pint hops (meas- ured lightly) ; 4^ quarts boiling water ; one-half pint yeast, or 1 cake compressed yeast. Put the hops in a stewpan with 1 pint of boiling water, and boil for 20 minutes. Mix the potatoes, sugar, flour and salt, and strain the hop water on them. Beat this mixture well, and add the 4 quarts of boiling water. Let this stand until blood-warm, then add the yeast, stirring well. Cover the bowl and let stand 24 hours. Skim and stir the yeast several times. Put in jugs and cork tightly. Keep in a cool place. It will keep two months. In making bread with it use very little salt. If yeast seems at all doubtful, stir in a little saleratus before using it. If it does not foam well, it is too stale. Yeast Cakes. — Boil a large handful of hops in a quart of water for half an hour. Stir it slowly and smoothly into one-half cup wheat flour. When lukewarm add 3 cakes of yeast, previously soaked in a little warm water, or 1 large cupful of fresh soft yeast. Set in a warm place until very light, then thicken with cornmeal until stiff enough to roll out. Cut in small square cakes. Dry in the shade or in a warm oven. Turn often to keep from souring. When dry, tie in a bag and keep in a cool, dry place. Soak a cake in warm water when wanted for yeast. This ought to make 3 loaves of bread. It is con- venient to make this yeast for warm weather. It will keep 5 or 6 months. Baking- Powder, Home Made. — Ten ounces of cornstarch, 9 ounces of bicarbonate of soda, 18 ounces of cream of tartar. Sift several times. Put in tight jars or cans. Baking- Powder. — II. One ounce super-carbonate soda, 7 drachms tartaric acid (powdered). Roll smoothly on a baking board and stand BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 299 in the sun. Sift several times. When thoroughly dry put in tight glass jars or bottles. Use 1 teaspoonful of this powder to 1 quart of flour. Tartaric acid is used as being purer than cream of tartar. Water Bread. — Half a cake of compressed yeast, 1 cake of dry yeast, or 1 cupful of soft yeast. If cither compressed or dry yeast is used, fill up the cup with warm water. Dissolve 2 tablespoonfuls of lard and 2 tablespoonfuls of white sugar in 1 quart of warm water. Then gradually stir in a pint and one-half of flour ; add a cup of yeast mixture, and then a teaspoonful of soda. Beat hard and set to rise in a moderately warm place where the temperature will not fall during the night. In the morning sift 2 quarts of fresh flour into a deep bread-tray, and add a teaspoonful fo fine salt. Make a hole in the middle of the heap, pour in the risen sponge, and work the flour down into it with the hands. If too soft, add more flour. If stiff, rinse out the bowl in which the sponge was set, with a little lukewarm water, and work this in. Flour the hands and knead hard, always toward the centre of the mass, which should be fre- quently turned around. Knead long and briskly, proper length of time Flour Sifter. From 20 minutes to half an hour is the When the dough is of the right texture, cover with a cloth, and leave it 4 or 5 hours to rise in a warm place, where there are no draughts. Then knead again for 10 minutes or so, divide into loaves, place in well-greased pans and set the pans in a warm place to rise for an hour. In winter it will be found a good plan to heat the flour. Set a pan of sifted flour over a kettle of boiling water, or, better still, in the heating oven of a range. Lime water in bread has been found to produce the lightness and softness of alum without its injurious qualities ; it also prevents acidity. Use in the proportion of 1 table- spoonful of the saturated solution to each loaf of bread. One cup- ful of air-slaked lime in 1 quart of water will make the solution. 300 BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. Potato Spoug-e Bread. — One quart boiling water; 4 large pota- toes ; one-half cup yeast, or one-third cake compressed yeast ; 1 tablespoonful salt; about 3 quarts and 1 pint of flour. This will make 4 large or 6 medium-sized loaves. Cover the potatoes with boiling water. Cook them for half an hour; then drain and mash them. Pour the boiling water on them. Let this stand until it is blood-warm ; then add the yeast and 3 quarts of flour, beating it in with a spoon. Cover the bowl with a cloth, and then with a board or tin cover, and let it rise over night — 9 or 10 hours. In the morning beat in the salt and half of the remaining flour. Use the^ remainder of the flour for kneading the bread on the board. Knead for 20 minutes or half an hour. Put the dough back into the bowl and cover it; let it rise to double its size; shape into loaves, and let them rise to double their original size. Bake for 1 hour in a moder- ately hot oven. The addition of a tablespoonful of sugar, and 2 or 3 of butter, improves the bread for some tastes. If these be used, add them with the salt when the bread is kneaded. Scalding buttermilk or whey may be used instead of boiling water, and will be found an improvement. Quick Bread, Wheat. — One cake of yeast dissolved in half cup cold water; 1 tablespoonful sugar; half teaspoonfnl salt; half pint cold milk; half pint boiling water. Stir in the dissolved yeast. Sift in flour until stiff as can be stirred. Put on the moulding-board and knead 5 minutes. Butter a jar or deep pan thoroughly, and put the bread in it. Set in a warm place to rise for 3 hours. Make into loaves, butter and prick the tops. Set to rise again for 1 hour, and then bake 1 hour. Wash the top over with milk and set on end to cool. This is extra-nice bread and can be made between breakfast and dinner, saving the trouble of setting a sponge over night. Com- pressed yeast is best to use — half a cake. Entire Wlieat Bread. — Two quarts of unsifted flour ; 1 ^ pints warm water ; 1 tablespoonful of butter ; 1 tablespoonful of sugar ; half tablespoonful salt; half cake compressed yeast, or half cup home-made yeast. After sifting the flour into a bread-bowl, put aside a cupful for use in kneading the bread, and put the sugar and salt with the remainder. If the yeast be compressed, dissolve it in a small quantity of water. Pour the remaining water and the yeast into the bowl, and finally add the butter, somewhat softened by standing in a BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 301 warm place for a while. Beat the dough vigorously with a strong spoon, and when it gets smooth and light sprinkle a moulding-board with a part of the flour that was reserved, and turn out upon the board. Knead until smooth and elastic, say from 20 minutes to half an hour ; then return to the bowl, and after covering first with a clean towel, and then with a tin or wooden cover, let it rise over night in a warm place. This quantity will make 2 loaves of bread and 1 pan of rolls. When it has risen, butter lightly 2 bread-pans and 1 roll- pan. Make enough rolls to fill the pan, shaping them with the hands ; then put the remainder of the dough on a board, and divide it into 2 loaves. Let the rolls and loaves rise till they are double their original size ; then bake in a moderate oven — the rolls for half an hour and the bread for an hour. Entire or whole wheat flour is the whole wheat, husk excepted, ground to a fine flour. Graham is a coarse-ground wheat meal. The rolls and bread are brown and delicious. Some cooks do not knead it at all, simply stirring and beating the dough until it is a moderately stiff batter. Pour this in greased pans and let rise over night. Fill the pans one-third full. Bake after breakfast. Wholesome and delicious for every one, but invaluable for invalids, since all the nutritious portions, which are rejected in white flour, are retained in entire wheat flour. Quick Buttermilk Bread. — One pint of buttermilk, Ij^ tea- spoons of soda, half cupful shortening, pinch of salt, flour to make a medium dough. Bake at once. Baking Powder Bread. — One quart flour, 1 teaspoonful salt, half teaspoonful sugar, 2 heaping teaspoonfuls baking powder, half medium-sized cold boiled potato, and water. Sift together flour, salt, sugar and baking powder ; rub in the potato ; add water to mix smoothly and rapidly into a stiff batter, about as soft as for pound- cake ; about a pint of water to a quart of flour will be required — more or less, according to the brand and quantity of the flour used. Do not make a stiff dough, as in yeast bread. Pour the batter into a greased pan, 4:j4 by 8 inches and 4 deep, filling about half full. The loaf will rise to fill the pan when baked. Bake in a very hot oven 45 minutes, placing paper over first fifteen minutes' baking, to prevent crusting too soon on top. Bake immediately after mixing. Salt-Rising- Bread. — Pour upon a teacupful of milk sufficient boiling water to bring it to blood temperature ; must not be too hot 302 BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. or you will fail ; add a very little salt and sugar, one-fourth of a tea- spoonful of each; then stir in 1 large teaspoonful of corn meal or Graham flour and 2 tablespoonfuls of wheat flour ; mix all up to the consistency of pancake batter and set to rise by placing the cup or bowl containing it in warm water; should water gather on top dust a little flour and stir. If set in the early morning it will rise at noon. Sift 3 or 4 quarts of flour and spread in a pan, so as to leave a large hollow in the centre, and put in 1 tablespoonful of sweet lard or butter. Pour over this 3 quarts of warm water, or milk and water, half and half. Add the rising. Mix and work into loaves. Rub butter over each. Put in deep tins, and, when it rises to the top, bake about 40 minutes in a well-heated oven. Let cool uncovered, and put away in a large stone jar. This is good, sweet, digestible bread. Wheat and Indian Bread. — Sift in a pan 4 quarts of Indian meal ; stir in enough boiling water to make a very stiff batter, stiff enough to hold a spoon upright. Let the batter cool until it is blood-warm, then stir in 2 quarts of sifted wheat flour, a tablespoon- ful of salt and 2 spoonfuls of molasses. Finally add a small teacup of yeast. Mix the bread thoroughly, put in a pan, grease it well on top and let it rise over night. In the morning, when it shows signs of cracking, put it in a moderately hot stove-oven and cover it well with brown paper and let it bake for two or three hours, or, if you prefer, steam it for five hours and bake it one hour covered in a slow oven. This is good, sweet, nutritious bread. Boston Brown Bread. — One coffee-cup corn meal, 1 coffee-cup rye flour, 1 coffee-cup Graham flour. Sift together and add 2 cups of New Orleans molasses. Mix all together with 2 cups of sweet milk, 1 cup of sour milk, 1 heaping teaspoon soda, 1 teaspoon salt. Pour the mixture in a tin pail ; cover ; put it in a kettle of cold water; set over the fire and let boil 4 hours. Butter the pail thoroughly. Cook it as soon as mixed. It may appear to be too thin, but it is not, as this recipe has never been known to fail. Serve warm with baked beans or turkey. The bread should not quite fill the pail, as it must have room to swell. See that the water does not boil up to the top of the pail ; also take care that it does not stop boiling. To serve it remove the lid and set it for a few moments into the open oven to dry the top, and it will then turn out in perfect shape. This bread can be used as a pudding, served with a sauce BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 303 made of thick, sour cream, well sweetened and seasoned with nut- meg ; or it is good toasted the next day. It can be put in a buttered mould and steamed 4 hours instead of boiled. Baked Brown Bread. — Two cups of Indian meal, 2 cups rye flour or Graham, three-quarters cup of molasses, 1 teaspoonful soda, one-half teaspoonful salt ; sour milk enough to make a batter about like cake. Have moderate oven; bake slowly 4 or 5 hours. Sweet milk or water can be used in making the batter, and 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder sifted with the flour, instead of the soda. Graliain Bread. — Two cups of wheat flour, 4 cups of Graham flour, 2 cups of warm milk, 1 cake of compressed yeast, half cup of molasses, 2 teaspoons of salt, 1 teaspoon of soda, dissolved in the water. Make as stiff as can be stirred with a spoon. Let it rise over night. In the morning beat it a little, form in one or two loaves, put in pans, and when it rises again, bake 1 hour in a moderate oven. Quick Graliam Bread. — One pint sour milk, 1 teaspoon soda, half cup molasses, half teaspoon salt. Stir in Graham flour to make a stiff dough, and bake in a quick oven. A little shortening makes it more tender. Indian Bread. — Scald 1 pint of Indian meal with 1 quart of milk or water ; boiling milk and water can be used, half and half When cool add : 1 pint of Graham flour, 1 cup of wheat flour, 2 tablespoons of butter (melted), 1 teaspoon of salt, half cupful of yeast. If yeast cakes are used, 1 will answer. Dissolve it, and fill the cup half full of warm water. Do this at night. In the morning stir down ; put in a well-buttered pan, letting it rise first for half an hour, and bake slowly. New Orleans Corn Bread. — One and one-half pints corn-meal, half pint flour, 1 tablespoonful sugar, 1 teaspoonful salt, 2 teaspoons- ful baking powder, 1]^ pints milk, 1 tablespoonful lard, 2 eggs. Sift together corn-meal, flour, sugar, salt and powder ; rub in lard, cold ; add eggs (beaten), and the milk; mix into a moderately stiff batter; pour from bowl into a shallow cake-pan. Bake in rather hot oven 30 minutes. Rye Bread. — One cup yeast, 1 pint of warm water to 2 pints of rye flour, and 1 pint of wheat flour ; 2 tablespoonfuls lard or butter ; 2 tablespoonfuls brown sugar. Beat together, and let rise over night. In the morning mix with this : 1 quart of warm milk, 1 cup of Indian meal, enough rye flour to make into dough. Knead ; cover ; set in 304 BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. a warm place to rise 2 or 3 hours. Knead again, and make into loaves. If there is the least tendency to sourness, add a teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in warm water. It is best to always add this in warm weather. Rub soda smooth with a knife blade before measuring. Oat Meal Bread. — Half pint oat meal, ^y,, pints flour, half teaspoonful salt, 3 teaspoonfuls baking powder, three-quarters pint of milk, 1 1/2 pints salted water. Boil the oat meal in water for 1 hour; add milk ; set aside until cold. Then place in bowl, sift together flour, salt, and powder, and add. Mix together smoothly and deftly; bake in greased tin 45 minutes, protected with paper 20 minutes. Biscuit. Sug-gestions. — It is a mistake to make a large tea biscuit. Prop- erly speaking, a tea biscuit should not be more than two inches in diameter and proportionately thick when baked. This gives a deli- cate, moist, flaky biscuit, which will be cooked through before the out- side crust has become hard or overbrown. Most people hurry to get biscuits in the oven after they are mixed. Those made with sweet milk and baking powder are much nicer if, after cutting out and put- ting in the pans, they rise for a while before baking. If mixed in the evening they may even wait till morning to bake, and are more like light rolls. If not quite milk enough use half water. Substitution of Baking- Powder. — When a recipe calls for bak- ing powder and it is not at hand, use cream of tartar and soda in the proportion of 2 teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar to 1 teaspoonful of soda. Two teaspoonfuls of baking powder called for in a recipe may be replaced by 1 teaspoonful of cream of tartar and one-half tea- spoonful soda, — always seeing that the two together equal two-thirds of the amount of baking powder called for, and vice versa. Level teaspoonfuls of cream tartar and soda are meant. When a recipe calls for sweet milk or cream and it is not at hand, use sour milk or cream and use with it baking soda in the proportion of 1 level spoon- ful to a pint of sour milk. If soda biscuits are yellow it is owing to too much soda. Soda must be varied according to the sourness of the milk, milk that has just turned requiring a little less than the amount above given, and milk that is very sour requiring a little more. This rule applies to any case where sour milk is used. BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. .305 Cream of Tartar and Soda Biscuit, Without Milk. — One quart of flour, 2 heaping teaspoons of butter chopped in the flour, 2 cups cold water, 2 teaspoons cream tartar, sifted with the flour, 1 teaspoon- ful soda dissolved in hot water, one-half teaspoon salt. Stir the dis- solved soda in the cold water. Mix the dough very quickly, having it just stiff enough to handle and roll. Bake in a quick oven. Buttermilk Biscuit. — For four persons take I pint moderately sour buttermilk and stir in it a rounding teaspoonful of baking soda. Pour into the flour bowl where there has been made a hole in the middle of the flour. Add a half teaspoonful of salt and half a cup of soft lard. Mix with the fingers into a soft dough. Do not get in too much flour — it must be quite soft. Roll out 1 inch thick or a little more, place not too close together on a tin and bake in a very hot oven. This is a thoroughly tested recipe. Maple syrup, honey or preserves make an excellent accompaniment. Raised Graham Biscuit. — One pint milk or water, 1 tablespoon- ful butter, 2 tablespoonfuls sugar, half cup yeast. (If dry yeast is used, take half cake of yeast dissolved in half cupful warm water.) Use enough of wheat flour to make a thin batter ; add the remain- der of the ingredients and as much Graham flour as can be stirred in with a spoon. Set away until morning. In the morning butter a pan, and with floured hands tear off bits of dough the size of an egg, roll lightly between the palms, put in the pan, let rise 20 minutes and bake in a hot oven. Rolls. Fresh rolls may be kept on hand by putting in a refrigerator some of the fresh sponge and letting it rise when needed. A com- mon cause of failure in making fancy bread and rolls is mixing the dough too stiff; it should be soft enough to be easily worked, without being in the least sticky. Eg-g- Rolls. — Two eggs, well beaten, 1 small cup of milk, 1 table- spoon of lard or melted butter, 2 teaspoons of baking powder, and enough flour to make a stiff biscuit. Roll out, cut desired size, bake in a hot oven. Nice biscuit for tea. If liked, add 2 tablespoonfuls of white sugar. Parker House Rolls (with Baking- Powdei'). — These are not the old original Parker House Rolls, like the following, but are quicker made : Sift 3 tablespoonfuls of baking powder with I quart of flour; 20 306 BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND MOT CAKES. put in 1 tablespoonful of cold butter ; add 1 well-beaten egg, 1 table- spoonful of sugar, and 1 teaspoonful salt ; rub well together, and make into a dough, with 1 pint of cold milk. Roll out less than half- inch thick. Cut with a large biscuit-cutter. Spread soft butter over the top of each, fold them together, and lay a little apart on greased tins. Brush over the tops with sweet milk and set immediately in a hot oven. Parker House Rolls. — Melt a piece of butter size of an egg in a pan of milk, add a teaspoon of salt and 3 teaspoons of sugar, and when lukewarm add half yeast cake dissolved in warm water and stir in all the flour it will take smoothly. Don't knead. Set in a pan of warm ^°° ■ water, and when raised to twice its bulk stir down. Mix at noon for supper and stir down 3 or 4 times. About ly^ hours before supper turn out on the board with as little flour as possible and roll out three-fourths inch thick, cut with an oval cutter, dip in cream or melted butter, and fold ends together, or put a tiny piece of butter in each fold (cream is best). Let rise at least an hour; bake in a hot oven till brown. Should bake in 10 to 15 minutes. Some of the ordinary bread sponge treated the same way is nearly as good. The secret is in the cream or melted butter, as they go into tins. Vienna Rolls. — Two pounds of sifted flour banked around pan, one-half pint of milk, one-half pint of water ; mix to a thin batter, quickly add one-half pint of milk in which has been dissolved 1 tea- spoon of salt and 1 compressed yeast cake ; leave remainder of flour against side of pan ; cover and keep free from air 50 minutes ; then mix in rest of the flour until dough leaves side and bottom of pan ; let stand for 2^4 hours. Divide into 1 pound pieces ; subdivide into 12 pieces. Flatten these small pieces of dough in squares three- quarters of an inch thick, fold their corners to the centre, pinch them down to hold them, and turn the little rolls thus made over on a board covered with cloth ; let them stand for about 10 minutes, turn them up again on a baking-pan, and put into a hot oven to bake quickly, for about 15 minutes ; when half done brush them with milk, return them to the oven and finish baking. Some trouble, but the result i.s delicious, BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 307 Bread Twist Rolls. — Take enough bread dough in the morning for a tin of rolls. Work in 1 tablespoonful butter or lard. Divide the dough into parts the size of an egg, subdividing each of these into 2 unequal pieces. The largest piece form into a taper roll. Lay- in a buttered pan. Do not let touch. Divide the smaller pieces into 3 pieces each. Roll these longer than the others and braid. Place a braid on the top of each large roll, pinch the ends of the two together, wash over with milk and bake. Frencli Rolls, Raised. — Two cups sweet milk, three-quarters of a cup of butter and lard mixed, one-half cup of yeast, or one-half cake of yeast dissolved in one-half cup of water, 1 teaspoonful salt. Flour to make a stiff dough. Let rise over night. In the morning add 2 well-beaten eggs, knead and let rise again. Make into balls the size of an egg. Then roll each one between the hands to make a long roll (about 3 inches long). Place close together in even rows on well-buttered pans. Cover and let rise again. Bake in a quick oven to a delicate brown. Glaze with sweet milk before baking. Buns. Caraway Buns. — Make as for lemon buns, adding 1 heaping teaspoonful caraway seeds. Hot Cross Buns. — Three cupfuls of milk, 1 cup of soft yeast, or 1 cake of compressed yeast, dissolved in 1 cup of warm water. Flour to make a thick batter. Set as a sponge overnight. In the morning, add half cupful of melted butter, 1 cupful sugar, half nutmeg, grated, 1 saltspoonful salt. Add sufficient flour to make a soft dough. Form into balls, flatten out with the hand, and mark deeply in the form of a cross with the back of a knife. Lay on buttered tins, and set to rise, and bake when light. Some cooks add a teaspoonful of corian- der seeds. Oat Meal Puflfs. — Sift together one-half pint oat meal, one-half pint Graham flour, one-half pint wheat flour, 1 teaspoon sugar, one- half teaspoon salt, 2 teaspoons baking powder; add 3 well-beaten eggs, 1 pint sweet milk. Mix into a thin batter, then half fill well- greased gem pans, and bake in hot oven 10 to 15 minutes. Serve hot. Rusks. Yeast Rusks. — One-half pint sweet milk, 1 teacup yeast, or 1 compressed yeast cake, 2 eggs; mix with flour to stiff batter and 308 BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. raise ; then add 1 cup butter, one-half cup sugar, one teaspoon soda, little nutmeg ; let rise again ; then knead and mould into shape; let rise and bake; when done, wet top with eggs, sprinkle with sugar, and return to oven again for a moment. Serve hot. Dried Rusks. — Make as above with yeast. When ready to bake, roll out 1 inch thick. Cut in round cakes with a biscuit cutter, and arrange in a buttered baking-pan in two layers, one laid carefully upon another. Butter slightly between them. Let rise half an hour, and bake. When done, lift apart and throw loosely in the pan. Put in the oven when the fire is low, and leave all night; when sufficiently dried and browned, put in a clean muslin bag and hang up in the kitchen. It will be at least three days before they are ready to use. To serve, put as many as desired in a deep dish, and pour cold milk over them. When soft, drain and eat with butter or cream. Good with coffee, served dry ; nice for invalids. Will keep for weeks. Rusks baked in the ordinary form can be sliced lengthwise in two or three slices, after they have cooled, and dried in the same way. Gems. Graliam Gems. — Mix Graham flour with milk to form a stiff batter ; add a pinch of salt and 1 egg. Bake in gems, hot and well greased. To make strictly hygienic, mix the batter with water instead of milk ; omit the egg, and add 1 tablespoonful of sugar or molasses to aid in browning the gems. A very quick oven must be used in this last way. Butter the gem-pans carefully, first heating them on the stove. Put a little butter in the bottom of each one. It will melt and rise up on the sides as the batter is dropped in. Fill the pans two-thirds full, leaving room to rise. Bake about 20 minutes. Apple Gems. — Chop 4 sour apples very fine ; stir into them 1 beaten egg, 1 quarter cup of molasses, and 1^ cups each of corn meal and sifted flour; dissolve a half teaspoonful of soda in warm water and add it, using enough water to thin batter. Bake in buttered gem-pans in a moderate oven. Graham Gems (with Baking Powder). — One tablespoonful of butter, 1 beaten egg, 1 cup of milk, 2 tablespoons of sugar, 2 tea- spoons of baking powder, in Graham flour enough for a good batter. Bake as above, A change in this may be made by taking 1 cup of BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 309 sour milk instead of sweet, and half teaspoonful of soda. Take a level teaspoonful of soda, flatten it over with a knife, and cut it smoothly in half Bake as before. Tear gems open with a fork, and butter. Oatmeal Gems. — One cupful of oatmeal soaked over night in 1 cupful of water. In the morning, add 1 cupful sour milk, 1 cupful flour, three-quarters tablespoonful soda, one-half tablespoonful salt, 1 tablespoonful butter, 2 tablespoonfuls sugar. Mix, and bake in hot, well-buttered gem-pans. If too moist, add a little more flour. 1 cup of sweet milk, and 1 teaspoonful baking powder can be used instead of sour milk and soda. Wheat Gems. — One quart flour, 1 quart milk, 4 eggs, 1 tea- spoonful salt, 2 teaspoonfuls (small) of butter. Sift the flour with the salt ; stir the milk in smoothly. Beat the yolks and whites well and separately ; stir first the yolks in the milk and flour, then the whites, then the melted cottolene. Half fill the gem-pans and bake in a deep pan or on a baking sheet in a moderate oven for 25 min- utes ; if baked in earthen cups, 45 minutes. Let them be thoroughly baked, or they will fall on being taken from the oven. Rye Gems. — One pint of warm milk with 1 teaspoonful of soda dissolved in it, a pinch of salt, 2 eggs, well beaten. Rye flour enough to make a thin batter. Bake in gem-pans. Mufans. Muffin rings should be well greased, filled two-thirds full and baked upon a well-buttered griddle upon the stove, turning ring and all with a pancake shovel when one side is done to brown the other. Or the rings may be filled and set in a buttered pan and baked in the oven. Turning will not be necessary. Muffin rings 2}4 inches across and 1j4 inches deep are the most convenient size. Gem ^ ■««• ^ t-. ^ , ^ ■ , , Iron MuflBn Pan. irons can also be used. Occasionally the same recipe can be dropped in spoonfuls on a griddle and baked, turning over with a pancake shovel. This is nice when haste is nec- essary. Tear open and butter. MuflBLns, Plain. — Three cups flour before sifting, 1 cup water, 1}4 cups sweet milk, 3 level teaspoonfuls butter, 2 tablespoonfuls sugar, 3 teaspoonfuls baking powder. Mix the sugar and shortening 310 BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. to a cream, add the wetting, then sift the flour and baking powder into it. Beat well, heat gem irons hot, grease, fill nearly full, and bake in hot oven 20 minutes. An egg is used sometimes. Sour milk and soda may be substituted, three-quarters teaspoonful soda. Raised Muffins. — Four cups wheat flour, 1 ^/^ pints sweet milk, 1 heaping tablespoonful lard, 2 eggs, one-half teacupful yeast. Sift the flour into a pan with a pinch of salt ; warm the milk and add cotto- lene, and stir into the flour. Beat the eggs light, add to the mixture. When thoroughly mixed add yeast. Set to rise about 3 hours before using, and when very light bake in muffin rings in a quick oven. These muffins must be served the instant they come from the oven. The muffin rings can be put on a griddle and baked also by turning the rings over with a pancake turner. If wanted for breakfast set over night. Tear the muffins open when done, put a bit of butter in each and keep warm until served. Never cut them. Graham muffins can be made the same way. Breakfast Muffins. — Three level teaspoonfuls butter, 2 eggs, 1 pint milk, 3 cups flour, 1 teaspoonful salt, 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder. Soften the butter, add to it the yolks of 2 eggs ; beat ; add milk ; mix ; add flour, salt and baking powder ; beat well ; stir in well- beaten whites, bake in quick oven 25 minutes in well-greased rings. Englisli Muffins. — Make as above, bake in muffin rings. Waffles. The first essential to success in waffles is a well-fitting waffle-iron. The waffle-iron should fit tightly over the stove hole. There should be no space in which to v-^^^^^^^^^^^^^mSA admit a draught of air around the waffle-iron to the fire ; yet there should be space enough for it to turn easily. Heat the irons thor- oughly before beginning to bake. They should be as hot as a griddle. Grease the waffie- irons with a piece of beef suet. Waffle-iron. BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. Gil Be sure that the side of the iron on which the batter is to be poured is extra hot, and as soon as the first waffles are put in it and the iron is closed, turn it. This method insures their baking on both sides. Fill two-thirds full of the batter. As soon as they are baked, lay them on a plate, butter them, lay another over them, and serve them. Raised Waffles. — The best waffles are the old-fashioned kind raised with yeast. These call for a quart of milk, heated boiling hot, and then cooled till lukewarm ; a quart and a cupful of flour, 2 well- beaten eggs and half a cup of butter. Stir the butter into the hot milk, pour it gradually, when it is lukewarm, into the flour, beating out all the lumps. Add the beaten eggs, a teaspoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of sugar, and, finally, half a yeast cake, dissolved in half a cup of lukewarm water. Beat the batter thoroughly and let it rise over night. Beat it again in the morning, and let it rise 20 minutes more. Fill the irons two-thirds full, first greasing them well. Turn that they may be baked on each side. Butter each as done and lay one upon another. Serve with maple sugar, grated, white sugar or maple syrup. Quick Waffles. — Sift 1 pint of flour 3 times and add 1 teaspoon- ful of salt. Beat the yolks of 2 eggs until very light ; add to them 1 cup of rich milk ; add this to the flour, with one tablespoonful of butter melted, and beat until light and smooth. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff, dry froth, add to the butter and beat again. When ready to bake add 1 teaspoonful of baking powder, put the batter in a pitcher, have the waffle-iron very hot and thoroughly greased. Pour in the batter carefully, and, as soon as the edges are set, turn the iron and bake the second side. In making waffles as much de- pends upon the even and quick baking as upon the recipe used. Cormneal Waffles. — Scald 1 pint of Indian meal into a mush. While hot put in a lump of butter the size of a walnut, and one-half teaspoonful salt. Let cool. Meanwhile beat separately the whites and yolks of 3 eggs. Add the eggs to the mush and stir in gradu- ally 1 quart of wheat flour. Add one-half pint buttermilk or sour cream in which has been dissolved one-half teaspoonful of baking soda. Thin this batter to the proper consistency with a little sweet or sour milk. Waffle-irons should be heated in advance that they may be hot when the batter is ready. Butter the irons thoroughly, fill two-thirds full ; bake briskly. 312 BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. Sally Lunn. Baised Sally Liuiin. — This is an excellent receipt for an old- fashioned teacake which is still very popular in New England. One quart of flour, 4 eggs, one-half cup of melted butter, 1 cup of warm milk, half an yeast cake, one-half teaspoonful of soda dissolved in hot water. Beat the eggs to a stiff froth, add the milk, butter, soda and a little salt. Stir the flour to a smooth batter and beat the yeast in well ; set to rise in a buttered dish, in which it must be baked and sent to table. Let it rise 6 hours. Bake steadily three-quarters of an hour. Sally Liuiin, Quick. — One-half cup of butter, half cup of sugar, 1 cup of sweet milk, 2 eggs, 3 cups of flour, 2 teaspoons of cream of tartar, 1 teaspoon of soda ; to be eaten hot with butter. Bake in a cake tin 25 minutes, or until a straw thrust into them gently comes up free from dough. To Serve Sally Luiiii (Eng-lish Way). — Cut them thin, and toast both sides; butter well, then place together again. This is the way they are served in England. They are very nice. Various Corn Cakes and Johnny Cakes. Corn Cake. — Sour milk can be used in making various kinds of corn bread, and many cooks prefer it, in a majority of cases, to sweet milk. Here is a recipe in which it is excellent : Mix together 2 cups of cornmeal, 1 teaspoonful of salt and 2 teaspoonfuls of sugar. Stir into 2 cups of sour milk ; add a tablespoonful of melted butter, 2 well-beaten eggs and a teaspoonful of soda ; beat thoroughly and bake in shallow pans in a hot oven. Custard Corn Cake. — One and two-thirds cups of cornmeal, one- third cup flour, butter size of an egg, 1 cup sour milk, 1 scant teaspoon of soda, 2 cups sweet milk, one-quarter cup of sugar, 2 eggs; mix the dry materials together, beat the eggs, add 1 cup of sweet milk and 1 of sour; save 1 cup of sweet milk to pour over the whole when in the spider; put butter in spider, let it get hot, pour in the batter, let bake in moderate oven I hour. There is something in baking in the iron spider or frying-pan that seems to improve the cake, though it can be baked in an ordinary pan. Corn Pop-overs. — Boil 1 pint of milk, stir in 1 cup of cornmeal, butter size of walnut, pincli of salt ; when cold add 3 eggs, yolks and BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 313 whites beaten separately. Bake 20 minutes in gem tins, which should be hot and well greased. Parker House Corn Cake. — One egg and small piece of butter ; add sugar or molasses to taste ; 1 coffee-cup of Indian meal and 1 coffee- cup of flour, 3 teaspoons of baking powder and 1 cup of milk. Sweetened Johnny Cake. — One pint buttermilk, half cupful mo- lasses, 2 cupfuls cornmeal, 1 teaspoonful of soda, 1 cupful wheat flour, half teaspoonful salt, 1 tablespoonful lard, 1 egg. Use less sweetening, if preferred. Bake in a quick oven. This rule will make two cakes. Use round tins. Cakes rise better in round tins. Some cooks use a small iron frying-pan. Serve hot with plenty of butter. This same batter will make good cornmeal muffins. It can also be dropped by spoonfuls on a hot greased griddle and turned with a pancake turner. Cakes baked in this way are light and delicious. Tear apart and butter. It also makes a good fritter batter to fry in hot lard. If sweet milk is used, add 2 teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar. Suet Johnny Cake. — One cup of suet chopped fine, half a cup of sugar, 1 }4 cups of sour milk, small teaspoon of baking soda, a pinch of salt, cornmeal enough to make a stiff batter ; bake in a quick oven. Golden Johnny Cake. — Cook in steamer and pulp fine 1 fine grain squash (Hubbard is the best), thicken 1 pint sweet milk with the squash pulp until the consistency of rich cream, sweeten lightly with white sugar. Take 3 parts Indian meal, 1 part best flour, the 314 BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. quantity being sufficient to make usual Johnny cake batter ; add 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder, one-half teacupful raisins, 1 teacupful currants, 1 pinch salt. A little good butter worked in when pulping the squash improves the cake. The suet can be omitted. Griddle Cakes. Siig-g-estions. — A very little shortening added to griddle cakes or pancakes, makes them more tender. A soapstone griddle for hot cakes requires no greasing. A substitute for fat will be found in rub- bing the griddle with the cut side of a white turnip; there will be no smoke or taste. If fat is used, put on very little. The first lot of griddle cakes is never quite as good as those that follow, because the iron is smooth and the heat even after use. Serve them smoking hot, straight from the stove, and of a delicate golden brown. Send with them maple syrup, grated maple sugar, or syrup made from melted sugar. A little water added to buttermilk, will prevent cakes being sticky. Buckwheat Cakes. — One pint of buckwheat flour, half teaspoon- ful salt, half cupful cornmeal, Graham or wheat flour ; 3 tablespoonfuls soft yeast, or one quarter yeast cake, dissolved in warm water ; 1 tablespoonful molasses, 1 quart warm water to make a batter, or sweet milk and water mixed. Beat thoroughly. Set to rise in a large pitcher or, better still, a regular pancake pail with a spout for conve- nience in pouring out the batter to bake. Set the batter to rise early in the evening, in a moderately warm place, where the temperature will not vary. In the morning thin with a little sweet milk, in which half teaspoonful soda has been dissolved, or warm water can be used. Grease the griddle with a piece of beef suet, cut from the beefsteak ; always leave a cupful at the bottom to start with, instead of using yeast, after the first time. If the family is large, use twice the quan- tity of flour. The Indian meal should have boiling water poured over it before adding it to the batter. Some cooks add a well-beaten egg to the batter. Quick Buckwheat Cakes. — One pint buckwheat, sifted with 2 heaping teaspoons of baking powder, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 tablespoon- ful molasses or brown sugar, to make them brown well. Enough water to make a batter. Bake at once. A little wheat flour and corn meal can be added. BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 315 Graham Griddle Cakes, KaLsed. — Two cups of Graham flour, 4 cupfuls wheat flour, 3 tablespoonfuls yeast or one quarter yeast cake, dissolved in warm water. Warm water or milk to make a thin batter. Set in a warm place over night. In the morning reserve 1 cupful of the batter for yeast next time. Into the remainder stir half teaspoon- ful of soda, dissolved in sweet milk or warm water. A well-beaten egg is a nice addition. These are considered more wholesome than buckwheat cakes, and closely resemble them in taste. Wheat griddle cakes can be made in the same way. Quick Graham Cakes. — Dissolve a teaspoonful of soda in 1 spoon- ful of sour milk; put it in 1 pint of sour milk; mix together a cupful of sifted Graham and a cupful of wheat flour; stir in slowly, beating well ; add half teaspoon- ful of salt, 1 tablespoonful of sour cream, 1 egg, well beaten; add more flour if too thin, and more milk or water, if too thick. The same rule can be used with sweet milk, and the addition of 2 level teaspoonfuls of cream tartar ; or baking powder may be used instead. If baking Soapstone Griddle. powder is used, omit the soda. These cakes are nice without the egg. Rye Griddle Cakes. — One cup sour milk, 2 tablespoonfuls mo- lasses, half teaspoonful soda, half cup wheat flour, 1 egg, well beaten, half teaspoonful salt. Enough rye flour to make a batter about the thickness of cake batter. Beat it thoroughly. Bake on a hot griddle. Flannel Cakes. — One pint sour milk or sour cream, 3 level tea- spoonfuls melted lard or butter, if milk is used ; 3 eggs, 1 teaspoonful soda; flour for batter to bake on griddle. Leave the whites of eggs till just before baking, then beat very light and stir in lightly. Flapjacks. — Make a batter of 1 pint of sour milk, 1 even tea- spoonful of baking soda and a little salt, with wheat flour enough to thicken sufficiently to fry nicely. Fry in cakes the size of an ordinary breakfast plate. Butter each cake and sprinkle it with sugar, piling 31 G BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. them one on top of another. A Httle grated nutmeg improves them. Have the batter as thin as it is possible to turn the cakes welL These are delicious, especially if sour cream is used. Wheat Pancakes, Sweet Milk. — One egg, 1 pint of sweet milk, 1 teaspoonful soda, 2 teaspoonfuls cream-tarter, 1 teaspoonful butter, or lard will make more tender. Add flour to make a batter. The eggs can be omitted. Bake on a hot griddle. Griddle Rolls. — Prepare an ordinary wheat-cake batter ; have the gridiron hot; bake each cake the size of a lunch plate. Soon as each cake is done, quickly spread with butter and cover with maple sugar, roll into a neat roll, lay in covered dish, place over boiling water till all are done, then serve. Crushed Wlieat Griddle Cakes. — 1 cupful crushed wheat, lyi pints flour, 1 teaspoonful brown sugar, half teaspoonful salt, 2 tea- spoonfuls baking powder, 1 Ggg, 1 pint of milk, sweet. Boil the crushed wheat in three-quarters pint of water 1 hour, then dilute with beaten &gg and milk. Sift together flour, sugar, salt, and powder ; add to crushed wheat preparation when quite cold, mix into smooth batter. Bake on hot griddle ; brown delicately on both sides; serve with cream sauce, or serve with butter and syrup. Swedish Griddle Cakes. — One pint wheat flour, sifted ; 6 eggs, beaten separately 20 minutes and bake on a hot griddle. Make this when setting bread at night, and use half cupful of sponge for yeast. Oyster Pan Cakes, a Supper Dish. — Put half cupful of sour cream in a pint measure, fill it up with sour milk. Pour in a dish, thicken with wheat flour. Dissolve a teaspoonful of soda in a table- spoonful of hot water, stir into the batter; add half teaspoonful salt, and 2 eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately, the yolks first. Beat well, lastly add the whites. The batter should be of the same con- sistency as other pancakes ; have a few oysters ready, set them over the fire in their own liquor until the edges begin to curl ; remove them, drain, and sprinkle a dust of salt over them ; when the batter is on the griddle, put 2 oysters on the top of each cake before baking, turn and brown. Dessert Pancakes. Grandma's Griddle Cakes. — Make batter as for Oyster Pan- cakes. Have a smooth iron frying pan greased with butter on top of the range: when hot, pour in enough batter to cover the bottom, turn BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 317 the pan around often, and with a pancake-turner loosen it. When brown, lift carefully and turn over. Have a very large plate hot, and when the cake is done, lift it to the plate, keep hot and bake another, spread each one with butter and maple sugar shaved fine; as fast as baked, pile on top of the others ; when five or six are baked, cut through the centre, then cut each half in four equal parts like apiece of pie. These are delicious for tea or for dessert. Pancakes a la Celestine. — Into a deep bowl sift 1 pint of flour and add a tablespoonful of sugar and a teaspoonful of salt. Have ready either a pint of cream or 1 of milk with 2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter in it. Break 3 eggs into the flour, add a spoonful or 2 of the milk to make beating easier, and beat all till a smooth batter. Add the milk or cream at the last. The batter must be very thin, and they are to be baked as large as a breakfast plate. As soon as a delicate brown, spread with strawberry or any jam preferred, and roll, dredging a little powdered sugar over each and serving them very hot. Pancakes with Sauce. — Make pancakes after any desired rule. Bake them the size of a breakfast plate, and make the following sauce. Sauce : 1 quart of sweet milk, let boil up. Dissolve 1 table- spoonful in a little cold milk or water. Add pinch of salt, a lump of butter size of walnut, stir into the boiling milk. Sweeten to taste and flavor with lemon. Have this sauce ready, and as the cakes are baked place in a deep dish, turning sauce over each cake as they are taken from the griddle, placing one over the other. Cut down through them all in triangular pieces to serve. Scotch Scones. — There are two kinds of scones, one made of raised dough, the other of sour milk. To make the former, proceed as for making raised biscuits. When raised enough to prepare for baking, roll about an inch or less thick, dot thickly with currants or small raisins, pressing them into the dough. Bake in a round tin, score almost through the dough to make quarters, and wet these cuttings to keep them from coming together. Glaze the outside with sugar melted in water. The quickly made scones are made like sour- milk biscuit, making the dough rather sweet ; or they may be made of sweet milk, like baking-powder biscuits, but they must be round, filled with raisins, marked in quarters, and glazed, or they are not scones. They are very good either hot or cold. 318 BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. Crackers. Corn Starcli Crackers. — One and a-half pint flour, half pint corn starch, half teaspoonful salt, 1 tablespoonful sugar, 1 teaspoonful baking powder, 1 tablespoonful lard, half pint milk (sweet). Sift together flour, corn starch, salt, sugar and powder ; rub in lard cold ; add milk, and mix into smooth, firm dough. Flour the board a little, turn out dough, give few quick, vigorous kneadings to complete smoothness. Set it under cloth ten minutes. Then roll it with a rolling-pin exceedingly thin, cut with round cutter, pricking each cracker with a fork, lay upon slightly greased baking tin, wash over with milk, and bake in a hot oven for 7 or 8 minutes. When cold, store them for use. Milk Crackers. — Rub one-half cupful butter with 3 cups of flour ; dissolve 1 teaspoonful of soda in one-quarter of a cupful of water and stir in the flour. Add 1 teaspoonful salt, 2 teaspoonfuls cream of tar- tar and sweet milk enough to make a stiff dough. Knead well, beat with the rolling-pin, pounding it out thin. Roll out, cut with a bis- cuit cutter, prick with a fork and bake quickly. Soda Crackers. — Five cups of unsifted flour, one-half cupful lard, one-half teaspoonful soda, one-half teaspoonful salt. Rub all thor- oughly in the flour. Add cold water sufficient to knead up stiff, beat with the rolling-pin 15 or 20 minutes. Roll thin as for pie crust, cut in squares, prick with a fork and bake in a moderate oven until they are just touched with a pale brown. Graham Crackers. — One quart best Graham, 1 tablespoonful sugar, 1 teaspoonful salt, one-half teaspoonful baking powder, 2 table- spoonfuls butter, one-half pint milk, good measure. Sift together Graham, sugar, salt and powder ; rub in lard cold, add milk, mix into smooth, consistent dough. Flour the board, turn out dough, knead well 5 minutes. Roll with rolling-pin to thickness of one-quarter of an inch; cut with knife into small, envelope-shape crackers. Bake in rather hot oven with care (as they burn readily) 10 minutes. Handle carefully while hot ; when cold store for use. Graham Cream Crackers. — Take 1 part of cream to 4 parts of milk, mix with flour, as soft as can be handled ; knead 20 minutes ; roll very thin ; cut square and bake quickly. Handle carefully while hot ; pack away in a stone jar when cool. IfflEs In thickening all kinds of soups and gravies, where flour is used, a much bet- ter way is to stir the dry flour into butter, or into the fat in the pan where meat is roasted, and stir until smooth ; then slowly add to the thickened butter or fat the soup or water for the gravy. In this way there will never be lumps to make it necessary to strain. When yolks of eggs are used for thickening a soup or sauce beat them well, then add a gill of cold liquid to every 2 yolks. Stir it into the hot liquid and stir it all the time the dish is on the fire, which should never be more than a minute. Gravy will generally be lumpy if the thickening is poured in while the pan is over the fire. Set the pan off until the thickening is well stirred in, then place on the fire again and cook thoroughly. A too rapid boiling ruins the flavor of any sauce ; it must boil once, but should never more than simmer afterwards. When sauce boils from the side of the pan it is done. Browning- for Gravies. — Put 1 pound of lump sugar into an iron pan with a small cupful of water, place on a hot stove and allow it to boil until it burns ; then add 1 pint of boiling water. Pour off the liquid, which, when cold, bottle for use. A few drops of this added to gravies, etc., will make them a beautiful rich brown. Browned Flour. — Sift a quart of flour into a dripping pan, set in a hot oven. Stir well; do not burn. When it is rather a dark brown, put in a glass jar. One-third niore of this is needed than of raw flour. Glace to Use. — Glace is merely very strong gravy boiled down until it is of the consistency of liquid jelly ; when it is of this thick- ness pour it from the saucepan at once or it will burn ; when it is re- quired for use stand the jar in which it is kept in a pan of boiling water, and melt it gently; to glace cutlets or meats, lay it on with a brush until it forms a varnish. Roux for Gravies, etc. — A 7'0itx\s simply flour and butter melted together, and is really the foundation of most gravies and sauces. Take a tablespoonful of butter, put in a hot saucepan ; when it melts 319 320 SAUCES AND GRAVIES. and is quite hot, stir in gradually 1 tablespoonful of flour. When it is thoroughly blended, it is ready for the foundation of any sort of gravy. If onion flavor is liked, put some minced onion in the butter and flour, and let it simmer, stirring all the time, until it is a delicate reddish brown. I>rawu Bvitter Sauce. — Put 1 tablespoonful of butter and 1 of flour into a saucepan ; when melted and smooth, add one-half pint of boiling water ; stir constantly until boiling ; add a half-teaspoon- ful of salt, another tablespoonful of butter, cut into bits, a dash of pepper and the juice of half a lemon. If preferred, add milk instead of water to make the sauce, and omit the lemon. Soup stock is sometimes used instead of water or milk. If this is to be served with fish, cut up several hard-boiled eggs and add to it. Seasoned with curry powder, it is converted into a curry sauce. A covered saucepan lined with porcelain will be best to use. If the sauce is a little too thick, add more milk or water, hot, until it is the consistency of thick crearn. Season to taste with salt and pepper. This is excel- lent to serve up minced remnants of chicken or veal in ragouts. Browu Butter Sauce. — Let the flour and butter blend together over the fire as above, but stir slowly until the mixture is thoroughly browned, but not burned, adding a few slices of onion. Water can be used to thin, but the proper mixing is soup stock. This sauce can be seasoned with spices, salt, pepper and chopped pickles ; whole peppers, 4 or 5 allspice, a spray of parsley are suitable for seasoning, also mushrooms or capers. This makes a brown ragout, and is suit- able for beef and venison ragouts. Cream Savice. — Two tablespoonfuls of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 cupful of milk or cream. Rub butter and flour smooth over the fire in a saucepan and add the boiling milk slowly. Stir until smooth. Season with salt and white pepper. This is a nice sauce for nearly every kind of vegetable and also for fish. Chopped hard- boiled eggs are an addition to it, if for fish. Wliite Sauce. — One cupful white soup stock, 1 cupful of milk, a little minced onion, 1 tablespoonful lemon juice, 2 tablespoonfuls but- ter, 2 tablespoonfuls flour, 1 teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful pepper, 1 tablespoonful of lemon juice. Cook butter and onion to- gether 10 minutes. Stir in the flour slowly and smoothly. Add the boiling stock, let boil up and add the milk or seasoning, and serve ; SAUCES AND GRAVIES. 321 add the lemon juice. This sauce may be used for boiled or baked fish, meats or game. Oyster Sauce. — To make oyster sauce, put 1 pint of small oysters, with their liquor, into a saucepan, and heat them to boiling point. Skim out the oysters and add to the liquor ly^ cups of milk, and when it is boiling add one-third of a cup of butter, creamed with 3 tablespoonfuls of flour. Season with salt and cayenne pepper, and let the sauce boil up once. Then add the oysters, and it is ready to serve. Extremely nice with boiled turkey and chicken. Celery Sauce. — Boil 5 or 6 heads of celery (removing the green portions and cutting up the remainder). When tender, drain. Mix 1 tablespoonful of flour with a little cold milk and stir into a pint of cream or milk. Turn over the celery. Add 1 tablespoonful of but- ter, season with salt, and let boil up. Nice for boiled fowls. Nasturtium Sauce. — An excellent substitute for capers are nas- turtium seeds. Soak the seeds in a strong brine 36 hours, drain and throw into fresh water and let them remain over night. Drain again and place in bottles. Take a few pieces of mace, some whole pepper corns, and a little sugar, and put in the vinegar and let it come to a boil. Pour on the seeds and cork immediately. Caper Sauce. — To 1 pint of drawn butter add 1 tablespoonful of capers with the vinegar from the bottle. Serve with boiled mutton. Lobster Sauce. — Mix 2 tablespoonfuls of butter and 1 tablespoon- ful of flour in a bowl, set in boiling water and stir gradually until thick ; add half a teaspoonful of salt and a teacupful of boiling water. Take from the fire and stir in a teacupful of finely-chopped boiled lobster and serve. Egg Sauce. — Make a white sauce with one-half pint of milk, a lump of butter, salt and flour to thicken. Take 3 hard-boiled eggs, remove the shells and cut them up when the sauce is cooked. Stir them with the eggs and serve. This sauce is delicious with boiled fish. Brown Gravy. — Remove nearly all the fat from the gravy in the pan and add to it enough hot water to make the required quantity, add browned flour dry until it is thick enough, then strain it and add to each cupful of the gravy half a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce and 1 tablespoonful each of chopped pickles and capers. 21 _» -» — k — «k_fc fc ^ ^ Tfc Possibly the least expensive article put up by housekeepers for winter use is catsup, a variety of which can be made at very small cost. The tomato and cucumber are the best vegetables for the purpose, and can be used both ripe and green. They may be cooked and seasoned in a number of different ways, or made in their raw state. The best and most perfect vegetables and fruits only should be used for catsups ; the spices should be pure, and so commingled as to prevent any one prevailing to the exclusion of the others ; cloves, allspice, mace and cinnamon being generally used. Onions, garlic, horse-radish, black and white mustard seed, with celery seed, give an excellent flavor. The vinegar used should be pure and strong. A porcelain-lined kettle is best for cooking catsups. After being made, they should be bottled or put in glass jars, sealed and kept in a cool, dry place. Catsups from fruits, such as gooseberries, grapes, or currants, may be made from the canned fruit at any convenient time, but are better made from the fresh fruit. In making catsups, if whole spices tied up in cloth are used while boiling down, the article will be left a clear red. Tomato catsup is many per cent, improved if served hot. To heat with little trouble, fill a small bottle with enough of the catsup to serve at one time ; cork tightly and stand in a dish of cold water, allowing the water to heat gradually to the boiling point. Tomato Catsup. — Twelve ripe tomatoes, peeled ; 2 large onions, 4 green peppers, chopped ; 2 tablespoons of salt, 2 of brown sugar, 2 of ginger, 1 of cinnamon, 1 of mustard, a nutmeg grated, 4 cupfuls of vinegar. Boil all together until thoroughly cooked (about 3 hours), stirring frequently. Bottle while hot. Leave the onions whole, and remove before bottling. Cucumber Catsup. — Grate large, green cucumbers on a horse- radish grater; drain, salt and pepper to taste. Put through a sieve to remove the seeds. Add a quantity of grated horse-radish, and sufficient vinegar to make the consistency of tomato catsup. Bottle, and keep in a cool place. 322 CATSUPS AND SPICED FRUITS. 323 Mushroom Catsup. — Take half a bushel of freshly gathered mushrooms ; wipe them carefully with a damp cloth ; put a layer in the bottom of a large stone jar ; sprinkle with salt; add more mushrooms and salt until all are used. Let stand over night ; mash them, and strain off the juice. To every pint add half a teaspoonful of black pepper and half a dozen whole cloves, hah a teaspoonful of allspice; put into a pre- serve kettle and boil slowly until thick. Strain and thin with 2 tablespoonfuls of vin- egar to every pint. Put in bottles and seal. Some add more spices, but this tends to destroy the delicate flavor of mushrooms. Horse-Radish Grater. Old Virg-inia Catsup. — Take 1 peck of green tomatoes, half a peck of white onions, 3 ounces of white mustard seed, 1 ounce each of allspice and cloves, half a pint of mixed mustard, an ounce each of black pepper and celery seed, and 1 pound of brown sugar. Chop the tomatoes and onions, sprinkle with salt, and let stand S hours; drain the water off; put in a preserve kettle with the other ingre- dients. Cover with vinegar, set on the fire to boil slowly for 1 hour. Southern Catsup. — Take half a gallon of green cucumbers ; after being peeled and chopped, sprinkle with salt, and let stand 6 hours ; pour the water from them, and cover with hot vinegar. Pre- pare half a gallon of cabbage the same way. Chop 1 dozen small white onions, pour boiling water over them, and let stand half an hour. Chop 1 quart of green tomatoes, 1 pint of tender green beans, 1 dozen green peppers, and 1 dozen small, young ears of corn ; scald and drain. Mix 2 tablespoonfuls of grated horse-radish, 1 teacupful of ground mustard, 2 cupfuls of white mustard ^^^ ^^ Spice Boxes, seed, 3 tablespoonfuls of turmeric, 1 each of ground mace, cinna- mon, cayenne, and celery seed, 2 tablespoonfuls of olive oil, and 1 pound of sugar. Put in a jar with the prepared vegetables, and pour over boiling vinegar to cover. 324 CATSUPS AND SPICED FRUITS. AValnut Catsup. — Pound to a mass 120 green walnuts, gathered when a pin can pierce them. Put to the mass three-quarters of a pound of salt and one quart of good vinegar, stir every day for a fortnight, then strain and squeeze the liquor from thcni through a cloth and set aside ; put to the husks one-half a pint of vinegar and let stand all night ; strain and squeeze them as before. Put the liquor with that which was put aside, add to it 1 ^ ounces of whole peppers, 40 cloves, one-half ounce of nutmeg (grated) and one-half an ounce of ginger. Boil all for one-half an hour, closely covered, then strain and when cold bottle and cork securely. White walnuts are very nice for catsup. Celery Catsup. — Bruise 1 ounce of celery seed, 1 teaspoonful white pepper, 1 teaspoonful salt, one-half dozen oysters in a mortar. Rub through a sieve, add 1 quart of best white vinegar and bottle for use. Oyster Sauce. — Take 1 quart of oysters, 1 tablespoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful each of cayenne pepper and mace, 1 teacupful of cider vinegar, add 1 teacupful of sherry. Chop the oysters and boil in their own liquor with the teacupful of vinegar, skimming as the scum rises. Boil 3 minutes, strain, return the liquor to the fire, add the wine, pepper, salt and mace. Boil 15 minutes, and when cold, bottle for use, sealing the corks. The sherry can be omitted. Cliutuey Sauce. — Cut 2 quarts of green tomatoes in slices, take out the seeds, sprinkle with 3 tablespoonfuls of salt, and let them stand over night. Drain the tomatoes through a colander, chop, put in a porcelain-lined kettle, add 2 quarts of sour apples that have been pared, quartered and chopped fine, 2 chopped green peppers, 1 pound of seeded and chopped raisins, 2 small onions minced, 2 pints of strong cider vinegar, and simmer for 2 hours. Then add 1 pound of brown sugar, 3 tablespoonfuls of mustard seed, two each of ginger and salt, and one teaspoonful of cayenne, and cook slowly for another hour. Pour into pint glass fruit jars ; seal while hot, and when cold wrap each jar in paper and keep in a cool, dark place. Chilli Sauce. — Take 24 large ripe tomatoes, 4 white onions, 4 green peppers, 4 tablespoonfuls of salt, 1 of cinnamon, half a table- spoonful of ground cloves and allspice mixed, a teacupful of sugar with a pint and a half of vinegar ; peel the tomatoes and onions ; chop fine ; add the vinegar, spices, salt and sugar ; put into a pre- CATSUPS AND SPICED FRUITS. 325 serve kettle ; set over the fire and let boil slowly for o hours. Bottle and seal. This is excellent, and will be found much less trouble than the strained tomato catsup. Uuspiced Chilli Saiioe. — Twelve good-sized ripe tomatoes, 2 red (or green) peppers, 2 large onions, 2 cups of cider vinegar, half a cup of brown sugar, 1 even tablespoonful of salt. Chop the onions and peppers together quite fine, scald and peel the tomatoes, cut them up, put all together and boil for 2 or 3 hours. Cover close and it will keep for months. Spiced Cherries. — Seven pounds of cherries, 4 pounds of sugar, 1 pint of vinegar, one-half ounce of ginger-root, 1 teaspoonful ot ground cloves, 2 teaspoonfuls of allspice, 2 teaspoonfuls of cinnamon, one-half teaspoonful of ground mace. Put the vinegar and sugar on to boil, mix the spices and divide them into 4 parts. Put each part into a small square of muslin, tie tightly, and then throw them into the sugar and vinegar. When this mixture is hot add the cherries ; bring all to boiling point, take from the fire and turn carefully into a stone jar. Stand in a cool place over night. Next day drain all the liquor from the cherries into a porcelain-lined kettle, stand it over a moderate fire, and when boiling hot pour it back in the jar over the cherries. Next day drain and heat again as before, and do this for 9 consecutive days; the last time boiling the liquor down until there is just enough to cover the fruit. Add the fruit to it, bring the whole to a boil, and put in jars or tumblers for keeping. A delicious relish. Spiced Cranberries. — Five pounds of cranberries, 3^ pounds of brown sugar, scant pint of vinegar, 2 tablespoons of cinnamon and allspice, 1 tablespoon of cloves. Cook slowly 2 hours. Nice with meats. Spiced Blackberries. — Spiced blackberries are made very much like spiced currants. To 7 pounds of fruit allow half a pint of vine- gar and half a pint of blackberry juice, S}4 pounds of granulated sugar, an ounce of cloves and an ounce of powdered allspice. Let this preparation cook steadily for about an hour and a half, until it is thoroughly reduced. Spiced Gooseberries. — Use 7 pounds of berries to 1 pint of vine- gar and 3^ pounds of sugar, 2 ounces of stick cinnamon and 1 ounce of whole cloves. Place in a preserving kettle over a slow fire and cook from an hour to an hour and a half. NdVigh For summer luncheons the sand- wich is the best stand-by. The ideal sandwich — and the ideal is as easily made as any, if the conviction once obtains — is very thin, its entire thickness when finished not over half an inch ; it is spread evenly with butter, and its flavoring or filling is delicate and dainty, a suggestion rather than a substantial reality. Potted ham and meats of all kinds, jam, grated sweet chocolate, cottage cheese, jellies, marmalades — any of these make good fillings, and many more suggest themselves for the trying. Any cold meat left over can do sandwich duty by freeing from fat and gristle and chopping fine. Moisten with a very little vinegar. There are certain absolutely essential points in the composition of a good sandwich, and they are soon mastered. All meats to be used in them should be well cooked, tender, as juicy as possible, and cut in very small, very thin slices, using as many of these slices as may be necessary to cover the bread. The bread itself should be home- made, if possible, not less than two days old, the slices cut thin and even, and the crust trimmed off. It is no waste, as some house- keepers feel, since this crust, browned lightly in a hot oven and rolled while hot, makes crumbs which cannot be excelled for dressings, puddings, and all uses to which crumbs may be put. All sandwiches should be wrapped in a wet towel to keep them moist. They can be cut into all sorts of fancy shapes, such as hearts, squares, oblongs, ovals, triangles, diamonds and stars. Lettuce and cress sandwiches should not be made until a short time before using, as their crispness is gone if they stand long. Other varieties can be made in the forenoon, or immediately after dinner, if desired for sup- per, or in the evening. In packing the picnic hamper remember that there should be a large supply of sandwiches, which are always the piece de resistance of an outdoor lunch. One of the nicest ways of serving a sandwich 326 SANDWICHES. 327 is to roll it. When made up in this way less of the surface of the bread is exposed and there is less danger of the sandwich drying on the outside. Spread the slices of meat paste or forcemeat on a slice of buttered bread. Only tender, home-made bread, fully 24 hours old, will roll properly. Begin very carefully and turn the bread gently, then roll rather firmly. Pin them up one by one in a piece of napkin, and set them aside for several hours under a slight weight, that they may retain their shape. All sandwiches should be carefully covered up in napkins as soon as they are made and should be served as soon as possible to prevent their becoming dry on the outside. But if carefully piled and covered up they will keep moist for several hours. Sandwiches to be taken to picnics may be wrapped in but- tered or waxed paper. Sandwich Bread. — Box bread, as it is called in some bakeries, and sandwich bread, as it is known in others, is a loaf with perfectly square corners. It is square in cross section and about twice as long as it is thick. The crust can be cut from it with very little waste and the slices can be cut into the desired triangular shape for sandwiches without any waste wdiatever. Sandwich Dressing-. — This does much toward making a sand- wich delicious : Mix two tablespoonfuls of mustard with enough hot water to make smooth ; 3 tablespoonfuls of olive oil, very little red or white pepper, salt and yolk of 1 egg. Set aside to cool. Warm before spreading upon the sandwich. Deviled Hani Sandwich. — The simplest form of sandwich is that of sliced meat, seasoned as desired. But now that meat-choppers enable one to reduce a whole ham or tongue almost to a paste, to be seasoned as taste dictates, a better order has established itself. A very delicious form, where there is a small amount of ham only, is as follows : From half to three-quarters of a pound of mixed lean and fat ham ; 1 minced pickle, a tablespoonful of French mustard, a tea- spoonful of sugar. Melt in a saucepan 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, and when it boils up add the ham, a pinch of cayenne and 1 raw egg, and stir together without allowing it to cook. Do not use till cool, and butter the bread with only a glaze of butter, as that in the ham will be sufficient. Tongue and corned beef can be treated in the same manner, and chicken also or game, but for the latter the pickle and half the mustard are to be omitted. 328 SANDWICHES. Ham and Eg-g- Sandwich. — Mix the yolks of 6 hard-boiled eggs to a smooth paste with 1 teaspoonful of made mustard ; to this add 1 cupful of finely-chopped ham and the whites of the eggs chopped as fine as possible. Mix well and spread between thin slices of buttered bread. If the crust of the bread is hard or tough, it should be cut off before the bread is spread. Chicken Sandwich. — Chop cold chicken very fine ; heat some rich cream and mix with it ; season with a little salt and spread be- tween sandwiches. Or, chop the chicken, first removing all the skin. To each cupful of the chopped chicken add a little salt and 2 table- spoonfuls of melted butter (measured after melting.) Mix ; cut thin slices of bread which is 1 day old ; spread first with butter, thinly, then with the chicken ; put 2 slices together and cut in fancy shapes. Eg-g- and Fish Sandwiches. — To make an egg and fish sandwich pound the yolks of 5 hard-boiled eggs and the white of 1 in a mortar. Add about as much anchovy as you have eggs, and mix in the mortar. Add to this mixture a teaspoonful of butter to every yolk of egg. When it is a smooth mass spread it on brown bread cut to the regular thickness of an eighth of an inch. The Norwegian an- chovies that come in a keg are considered better than those that come in a bottle, already boned. Take the little fishes out of the keg, a few at a time, soak them in cold water for 2 hours or longer, open them and remove the backbone. After cleaning them well lay them in a dish covered with sweet oil until needed. Egg-wiches. — Cut the top nearly off of rolls that are a little stale, remove all the crumbs and soft part possible, and fill with a stuffing of chicken (veal, tongue, or any meat desired), finely chopped, with celery salt, a little parsley, pepper, plenty of butter, or olive oil, and to each roll allow the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, which should be thoroughly mashed with the other ingredients. Fill the rolls, shut the top, and place in the oven to get hot. Tongue Sandwich. — Chop cold boiled tongue, and mix with any nice salad dressing to spread between sandwiches. Breakfast Sandwich. — Use stale bread. Spread each slice with chopped meat ; cover with another slice and press together. Cut each sandwich in halves and place them on a plate. Have ready a pint of milk, salted and mixed with 1 beaten egg. Pour this over the sandwiches and let stand a (ew moments. Put a heaping tea- SANDWICHES. 329 spoonful of butter into a frying pan and when it begins to brown place the sandwiches carefully upon it. When nicely browned on one side add a little more butter, turn, and brown the other side. Gaiue Sand^vich. — Make a rich, smooth gravy with the game stock, or plain stock. Spread the bread with this, and lay on it thin slices of partridge, pheasant, etc., as you choose. Press the slices to- gether, trim, and cut in any neat shape. Sometimes thin circles of nicely fried bread are used instead of cold bread. Hot Roast Beef Sandwich. — Cut bread moderately thin and butter lightly. Lay a generous slice of hot roast beef between two slices of bread, and cover liberally with a rich, hot, brown beef gravy. Cream of Oyster Sandwich. — Chop 1 quart of raw oysters very fine, season with pepper, salt and a little nutmeg ; add i/^ cup melted butter, the same of rich cream, whites of 3 eggs beaten, and 8 powdered crackers. Heat in a double boiler until a smooth paste ; set away until very cold ; then cut and lay between buttered slices of bread. Hot Oyster Sandwich. — Split small, fresh crackers, butter the inside ; lay on each bottom half of 1 large or 2 small oysters ; season with pepper and salt, and small pieces of butter ; cover with upper half; place in dripping pan and bake from 15 to 20 minutes. The cracker must be thoroughly heated through, but not burned in the least. Serve on hot platter. Nice to serve for supper with pickles. Oyster Sandwich. — It is very dainty and appetizing, and may be served either hot or cold. Take thin slices of sweet, home-made rye bread, butter them, lay on hot, fried oysters, season, using a dash of made mustard if liked, and lay on the second slice of bread. If they are to be served cold, wrap each sandwich in buttered paper. Sardine Sandwich. — Sardine sandwiches may be made by simply splitting the fish, taking out the bone, and squeezing a little lemon juice over them. Add a leaf of lettuce to each sandwich, allowing three halves of sardine to a slice, and cutting them in two. Cut the bread thin and butter lightly. Press the slices together. Hot Sardine Sandwich. — An excellent relish for the Sunday night tea table. Take 4 boneless sardines, rub them smooth with an ounce of butter, a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce, and a dust of cayenne pepper; heat the mixture in a chafing dish and spread on hot buttered toast A little grated cheese may be sprinkled over top before serving. Do not put two pieces of bread together; leave open. Toast should be made of stale bread, or, at least, of bread that has been baked a day. Baker's bread is usually better ^iijllimiii,Ai5^ ~ for toast than the domestic article. Cut smoothly €j^ in slices, not more than half an inch thick. If the ^j crust is baked very hard, trim the edges. Brown very evenly. If it happens to burn, scrape off very carefully. Cold biscuit cut in halves, under crust cut off, then browned evenly on both sides, makes good toast. Either brown or white bread makes good toast, but Graham bread is to be preferred. Toasted bread done in the ordinary fashion, that is, by putting a slice of bread on a fork, holding it over the fire until brown on one side, then turning to brown the other side, will be found, upon breaking open a slice, to have the surfaces browned, but the inside is converted into the same condition as that of new bread. Toast to be most easily digested should never be buttered. It covers up the starch and saturates the gluten. This is to be remembered in serving it to invalids. A good way to toast bread, and also to avoid getting heated and scorched one's self, is to take a stale loaf of bread, cut into very thin slices, almost like wafers, place on large baking sheets and dry until quite crisp in a cool oven. Serve piled on a plate at dinner or tea. Scraps of loaves and rolls may be used in this way, and be greatly appreciated if crisp and cut very thin. Thin slices of toast are now at fashionable dinners taking the place of the usual dinner roll. This has created a place for individual silver racks each to hold two slices. Porcelain racks are also some- times used. Cream Toast. — Cut slices from a loaf of stale bread, toast brown ; put a pint of cream in a quart cup and set on the fire to heat, add a teaspoonful of butter and a pinch of salt, pour over the toast, and serve hot. Cream Toast with Poaclied Eg'g's. — Prepare a toast as above, lay each slice neatly in a saucer before adding the cream dressing, and then finish with a delicately poached egg laid on each slice. 330 TOASTS. 331 Baked Milk Toast. — Pare the crust from slices of stale bread and toast quickly; dip in boiling salted water and lay in a deep dish that will bear the fire without injury. When all are in pour upon the toast 1 quart of hot milk (or half cream) in which has been dis- solved a heap- ing tablespoon- ful of butter andateaspoon- ful of salt. Set the dish in a dripping pan of hot water, and this in the oven. Bake covered for half an hour, then let the top layer brown very slightly. Should the milk be all absorbed before time is up, add a little more, boiling hot. Thus prepared it has a rich, creamy flavor " dip toast" never acquires. Scotch Toast. — Butter slices of not too stale bread, place in a hot oven for 5 minutes ; serve. Dutch Toast. — Dutch toast is a simple dish for using up scraps of bread. Crumble the bread and place in a frying pan with a slice of butter. Add salt, pepper and sage if liked. It should be seasoned quite well. Add a small quantity of boil- Bread Toaster, ing water, cover closely, so the steam will soften the bread, stir sev-f eral times and serve hot. French Toast. — To 1 pint of milk add 2 well-beaten eggs and a pinch of salt. Dip into this mixture 12 slices of bread. Have ready a tablespoonful of boiling hot lard or beef suet in a skillet. Fry the bread on both sides a delicate brown. This makes a nice breakfast dish. Some cooks roll in sugar before serving. Prepared in this fashion, it is nice for breakfast or luncheon. 3.02 TOASTS. Parisian Toast. — Beat well 2 eggs, add a little salt and 1 cup of milk, pour over G slices of bread and brown quickly on hot buttered griddle ; place on platter and cover with chopped bits of meat or cold fish made very hot in a little butter and water. Siiowfiake Toast. — Take 1 quart of milk, one-half cup cream and a little salt. Mix a tablespoonful of flour with a little of the milk, and add when the milk is boiling hot. Let it cook until the flour has no raw taste. Have ready the whites of 2 eggs thoroughly beaten, and after the milk and cream are well cooked, stir in the whites of the eggs lightly and allow it to remain over the fire long enough for the whites to coagulate — about half a minute is long enough. This quantity is sufficient for about 12 slices of bread well toasted. Dip the slices in hot milk, take out quickly and pack to- gether for about 3 minutes, then pour this snowflake mixture over them. Chicken or Turkey Toast. — Bone and skin the remains of cold fowls, roasted or boiled. Cover and keep in a cool place. Boil the bones and skin with three-quarters of a pint of water until reduced half. Strain this gravy and let cool. Skim off the fat and put in a saucepan with one-half cupful cream and 2 tablespoonfuls butter rubbed smooth with 1 tablespoonful flour. Stir this until it boils. Then add the finely-minced fowl, together with 3 hard-boiled eggs, chopped, and pepper and salt to season. Shake over the fire until thoroughly hot. Dish over hot toast. Some prefer to dip the slices of toast in hot, salted water before adding the meat. Mock Cream Toast. — Melt 2 ounces of butter and rub in 1 large teaspoonful of flour. Pour ly^ pints of hot milk over the butter and flour. Return to the stove. Beat 2 eggs light and turn the hot milk over the eggs and beat a few minutes ; strain the cream through a fine hair sieve. Dip the toast and send hot to the table in a gravy-bowl, the cream not taken up by the toast. Veal Toast. — Veal toast may be made in precisely the same man- ner as chicken and turkey toast. CHAFING DISH COOKERY i , Five years ago the average individual -^ hardly knew what a chafing dish was, but now in many a small apartment are known full \\ "^J ^'"^W^r '^^ ^^^^ ^^ joy^ ^^ savory suppers served informally 3 \|^3r/ ■'. ^ and gayly from the bright and cheerful nickel fj '////,' ^^^^0^^" chafer that may be bought anywhere at small ex- Y''' pense, and which has become in more ways than one a precious boon to the light and economical housekeeper. Bachelors, girls living in small rooms, and all who wish to do light housekeeping should have one chafing dish and an alcohol lamp with a small tea-kettle. Fill the lamp with alcohol and then light it, and then put the tea-kettle on first with water. Then fill the lamp for the chafing dish, light it, and fill the lower pan half full with water. Place the top pan on the lower one and the chafing dish is ready for use. The chafing dish is used at informal meals, and, so far as is pos- sible, the actual cooking should be done after guests are seated at the table, the short delay in the preparation of the dish being utilized for conversation. All ingredients should be at one side of the dish on a small tray in readiness for immediate use — condiments, flour, etc., measured, meat diced and eggs beaten. Often two or more ingredi- ents can be placed in the same receptacle, and if the bowls and dishes used are proportioned to the amount of materials they will not be deemed out of place. They should, of course, be removed as soon as emptied. Butter may be made into balls, each ball representing an ounce. Arrange these in a pretty dish on the right. If cream is to be used, measure and put it in a little pitcher on the left. Bottles containing sauces and catsups should also be placed on the left, as well as large materials, such as lobster, etc. This saves much time and confusion. See that the lamp is filled and that matches are at hand before being seated. When a recipe calls for butter and flour rub them together and put them in the dish before serving-time. If butter is to be browned put it in the dish first, then have the flour in a pretty bowl, 333 334 CHAFING DISH COOKERY. to be added later. Use for stirring a long-handled, polished wooden spoon. This will enable you to work easily and quietly. If you use a light metal dish it becomes at times needful to use the hot water pan ; but with a heavy dish this is not required. Though a desirable possession at all times, the chafing dish is particularly convenient during the " dog days," when bending over the kitchen range becomes insufferable ; and to the summer hostess, especially, this admirable substitute is invaluable. The number of viands that may be prepared on the chafing dish are numerous and inviting — and their num- ber is constantly increasing. Del- icate and dainty concoct ions have so far been the chief prod- ucts of the chaf- ing dish, but an attempt is being made to cook Agate Chafing Dish Outfit. ^^^^ substantial articles, so that they may be a boon also to the tired housewife whose family requires heartier foods. Welsh Rarebit. — A good dinner for the beginner to commence on is Welsh rarebit, which can be made exactly as well at home as in the chop-houses of reputation. It is better that the toast should be made below stairs, and timed so that when the rarebit is completed the toast will arrive, perfectly browned, hot and well buttered. But when making rarebit at night after fires are fixed, it becomes neces- sary to make toast also over the chafing dish. This should be done first : Have ready a hot platter and dish of butter. Place over the spirit light first a round asbestos mat, trim the bread and place it on the mat ; toast carefully, butter, and place it on the heated platter. Take cheese of domestic make and cut in tiny pieces. If the cheese is dry, a lump of butter, the size of a hickory nut, should be put in first. Put in enough cheese to nearly fill the dish, with a sprinkling CHAFING DISH COOKERY. 335 of salt and pepper, and as soon as it begins to melt stir and mix it up constantly with two silver spoons. When it assumes the conditions of a paste, begin to pour in Bass ale, a tablespoonful at a time, until about a half bottle is used. Have a well'-beaten egg ready, and when the cheese is like cream pour in the egg ; stir it through evenly and put out the alcohol lamp before the egg can cook into lumps. Have fresh-made toast ready on hot plates and pour 2 or 3 spoonfuls of the melted cheese over each slice. A pleasant addition, and a digester, as well, is a sprinkling of paprika, or Hungarian pepper, over each rarebit. The secret of success in most chafing dish concoctions is the con- stant stirring with two spoons, which prevents the mixture from grow- ing lumpy. Some cooks use a tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce, or tomato catsup. A saltspoon of salt is also needed. Escalloped Oysters. — Take a pint of large oysters, 2 tablespoon- fuls of butter, a gill of cream, 2 tablespoonfuls of cracker dust and some pepper and salt. Put the cream and butter into the chafing dish. Drain the oysters and lay in layers sprinkled well with cracker dust, then another layer of oysters with added cracker, and a little butter, salt and pepper. Cook 10 minutes covered. Pan Oysters. — Drain 1 quart of select oysters in a colander for several hours in a cool place. Put 2 tablespoons of butter in the chafing dish, season well with salt and pepper. As soon as the but- ter begins to cream put in the oysters ; stir them thoroughly, cover them and let them steam until well puffed up. Serve on toast. Pan Toast iu Cliafiug Dish. — Melt a tablespoonful of butter, and, as it creams, add a dozen large oysters, a half pint oyster liquor, salt and pepper. Cover and cook about 10 minutes. Put six of the oys- ters on a thin slice of toast on a hot plate, with sufficient liquid to moisten the toast, and serve. Creamed Oysters with Celery. — One tablespoon butter, 1 table- spoon flour, 1 cup cream, 1 pint large oysters, 1 small bunch celery cut fine. Melt, but do not brown the butter. Add flour and stir until smooth. Pour in cream and stir until smooth ; add salt and pepper, and, if too thick, a little of the oyster liquor. Put in the oysters and let them cook until the edges are thoroughly curled. About 2 minutes before they are done add the celery. Serve on toast. 336 CHAFING DISH COOKERY. Creme Oysters. — For a little supper dish put in the chafing dish 2 tablcspoonfuls of butter and one-half pint of cream, a saltspoon- ful of salt, a little pepper, a sprinkling of nutmeg and 2 bay leaves. When heated, grate up half a cup of cracker crumbs and add them, with 25 oysters, blanched and drained. Cook 5 minutes and serve hot. Creamed Oysters. — Put 1 tablespoon of butter in upper dish (setting in water pan), add salt and pepper and 1 pint washed and drained oysters. Cook a few minutes till edges curl, then add the well-beaten yolks of 3 eggs mixed with one-half cup of cream. Watch, and remove as soon as creamy, which will be in 2 or 3 min- utes. Serve on crisp toast. Clams, with head and tough parts re- moved, the hard parts chopped and the black spots pinched out, are very nice served in this way. Oyster Toast. — The oyster toast for lunch can be made with the chafing dish. The oysters may be minced and mixed with the yolks of 2 eggs and a gill of cream to every dozen oysters, and heated with a tablespoonful of butter, or they may be left whole and heated in a sauce made from the cream and eggs. The toast can be made in the kitchen, and the mush left from breakfast should be sliced and fried on a gas or oil stove to prevent the irons from becoming soiled. Creamed Lobster. — Put 1 small tablespoonful butter in chafing dish ; when it melts and bubbles add heaping teaspoon of flour ; stir until melted ; add one-half pint of cream (or milk), let it come to a boil, and add 1 can of lobster and 2 eggs well beaten ; season to taste and boil at least 1 minute. Serve immediately. Lobster an Natiirel. — Take the yolks of 2 eggs, and, after beat- ing them well, add 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, and beat again until very smooth. Boil a lobster, and when cold stir the meat, finely chopped, into the above mixture. Let it simmer very slowly, but it must not boil. Serve on a well-heated dish. Cream of Clams. — Begin with the usual 2 tablespoonfuls of but- ter, and add 2 tablespoonfuls of flour when the butter is melted. When blended well stir in the chopped meat of 25 clams and half a pint of clam juice. Pepper and salt to taste. Cover and let simmer for 10 minutes. Then add a gill of milk, if cream is not forthcoming, and serve as soon as the general bubble has come. Clams a la Maryland. — To cook clams a la Maryland remove the bodies from 20 soft clams. Place the bodies, with 1 tablespoon- CHAFING DISH COOKERY. 337 ful of butter, in a saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful of fine cut truffles, 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry wine, one-quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper, and cook 8 minutes. Be careful not to stir them. Mix one-half a cupful of cream with the yolks of 2 eggs, add it to the clams, let it remain a kw minutes to heat, but not boil, and then serve. Hashed Little-neck Clams. — Melt a pat of butter into the chafing dish, then put in 3 dozen little-neck clams, hashed fine, and their juice. Add a teaspoonful of chopped shives and 2 of parsley. Cook over open fire until it boils twice, cover on, thicken with bread crumbs, add 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry. Season and serve on buttered toast. Soft Shell Crabs. — Put 4 pats of butter into the chafing dish and let it become very hot ; then put in 4 medium-sized soft-shell crabs, first prepared by removing the lungs and washing thoroughly ; add 2 teaspoonfuls of lemon juice. Cook about 10 minutes, being careful not to burn. Season with salt and white pepper. Serve on toast or plain, Spanish Cream Pudding-. — Take one-third of a box of gelatine, 1 quart of milk, 4 eggs, ij4 cups of sugar, a teaspoonful of vanilla, and a pinch of salt. Soak the gelatine 1 hour in milk. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar together, add to the milk and pour into the chafing dish. Cook 20 minutes, take off and add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth ; after cooling a little, add the vanilla and salt, and beat 5 minutes. Pour into a mould and set on the ice. Chocolate Cream. — A very rich and delicious preparation of chocolate to serve occasionally is a cream made in the chafing dish. To make it take 2 squares of a good brand of chocolate, break them up, add 4 tablespoonfuls of boiling water and 4 tablespoonfuls of granulated sugar, cover and cook 10 minutes. Then add three- fourths of a cupful of cream, put the hot-water pan under the dish, and stir in the well-beaten yolks of 2 eggs. In adding the yolks of eggs to sauces, creams, etc., it is best either to remove the mixture from the fire or to add a few tablespoonfuls of the hot liquid to the eggs (stirrmg as you do so) before adding it to the bulk of the mix- ture. You will thus prevent curdling. Mix the yolks well with the rest of the ingredients, and cook until they thicken the liquid slightly. Then add the frothed whites, a salt-spoonful of salt, and, just before serving, a teaspoonful of vanilla. Serve hot, in small cups, either with or without whipped cream. With it serve crisp, unsweet- ened crackers, bread sticks, or finger-rolls. An Indian or flour dumpling that is to be tied in a cloth requires plenty of room for the contents to swell. Never let the water stop boiling while the dumplings are in the kettle. Be sure they are covered with water completely. Dip the bag, or cloth, in cold water for an instant and the dumpling will come out easily. Steaming is easier, and in every way preferable to boiling a pudding or dumpling. Some dumplings are to be baked also. Biscuit crusts, pastry or suet crusts may be made. Suet Dumpling-s. — One pint of fine bread crumbs, one-half cup- ful of beef suet chopped fine, 2 eggs, well beaten, ly^ teaspoonfuls baking powder, 1 teaspoonful (level) of salt, one-half cupful of flour. Wet it with enough sweet milk to make a stiff" paste. Make into balls with floured hands. Tie up in separate cloths that have been wrung out of hot water and floured inside. Leave room to swell. Serve hot, with hot pudding sauce, or with hard sauce or butter and syrup. Plain Dumpling-s. — Take a pan of nice light biscuit just ready for the oven, and when the potatoes are ready to boil for dinner put the biscuit in the steamer over the kettle. Cook one-half hour or until the potatoes are done. Serve hot with sweetened cream sea- soned with nutmeg. Crushed strawberries or any kind of stewed fruit is nice to serve with them. Tear open with a fork. Baked Apple Diiinpliiigs, — Peel, core and quarter any nice kind of apple ; make a light, flaky pastry and roll thin. Cut it in sections as large as a saucer. Lay 2 or 3 quarters of the mellow apple on the pastry and sprinkle it with sugar. Catch up all the corners of the pastry and press firmly together over the apple. Lay them in a bowl or pan, with the smooth side up, and put half a teaspoonful of butter and a teaspoonful of sugar with a little nutmeg on top of each. Pour boiling water an inch deep around them and bake in the stove till the dumplings are nicely browned. Serve hot with sweetened cream for 338' DUMPLINGS, SHORT CAKES, ETC. 339 sauce, or, in lieu of cream, the water in which they were steamed makes a well-seasoned sauce. Boiled Apple Dumpliug-s. — Make a rich biscuit dough. Roll out on the moulding board almost as thin as pie crust. Cut into squares, or rounds, large enough to cover an apple. Pare and core the apples without dividing them, and fill with sugar and a pinch of cinnamon. Chop the suet very finely, rub it into the flour, and mix into a paste with the water ; roll it out to a thin paste, divide in pieces, roll the apples in it, taking care to join the paste neatly ; form into balls, tie in pieces of floured cloth and boil three-quarters of an hour. Serve with a sweet, hot sauce. Another Sauce : One and a half cupfuls of sugar, one-half cupful of butter, 2 spoonfuls of flour. Mix flour and sugar thoroughly, then work in the butter and pour on 2 teacupfuls of boiling water. Peacli Dumpliugs. — These dumplings may be made of either fresh or canned peaches, but are better of the fresh. Make a rich biscuit crust, cut in squares large enough to fold over the peach, and steam in a steamer for half an hour, being careful not to uncover them during that time. Serve with hard sauce. If the canned peaches are used, two of the halves should be put in each piece of crust, and the syrup will make a delicious sauce by adding 1 cup of sugar, and boiling 10 minutes, then adding a teaspoonful of butter, and a heaping 1 of corn-starch dissolved in a little cold water and boiled up once. A dash of nutmeg is an improvement. Plum Duiiipliugs. — These are very attractively made by sifting 3 cupfuls of flour, with which 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder have been mingled, slicing in a heaping teaspoonful of butter, and making into a soft dough with water. Stir in a cupful of plums, using either stewed fresh fruit or the canned article, according to the season. Par- tially fill cups with the batter, set them in a pan of hot water in the oven and steam for half an hour. Invert the dumplings on dessert plates and serve warm with liquid sauce. Strawberry Dnnipliug's. — Into a pint of sifted flour rub 2 rounded tablespoonfuls of butter ; add 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1 egg well beaten, 1 heaping teaspoonful of baking powder, and sufficient milk to moisten. Mix quickly and roll out into a thin sheet, about a quarter of an inch thick. Cut out with a round biscuit cutter, place 4 berries in the centre of each, fold the edges over and steam about 340 DUMPLINGS, SHORl CAKES, ETC. 25 minutes. Serve with strawberry sauce, or any other good hard sauce. Doug-li Dumplings. — Risen bread dough made into balls the size of apples and boiled a long time in a kettle of boiling water are nice eaten hot with molasses. A little shortening may be used. Berry Dumplings. — Most berries make good dumplings, among which are gooseberries, whortleberries, raspberries, blackberries, etc. Roll out biscuit dough, cut in squares, put a spoonful of berries on, bring corners together, place on a buttered tin. Melt a tablespoon- ful of butter, a heaping spoonful of sugar, one-half cupful of hot water. Dip over the squares. Sprinkle with sugar and bake. See " Strawberry Dumplings." Rice Apple Dumplings. — Boil a cupful of rice until about done — about 30 minutes — then drain. Take a square of cheesecloth, put the rice, the size of a saucer, in the centre of the cloth, put the apple in the centre of this, then fold up the corners of the cloth so as to fold the rice over the whole evenly. Tie tightly and throw into a kettle of boiling water, boil rapidly for 20 minutes, untie, and they are ready to serve. Serve with them any preferred sauce. Rice Dumplings. — Take a cupful of boiled rice, mash it fine, add to it 1 tablespoonful of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar, one- quarter teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, a pinch of salt and the yolk of an egg. Moisten with a tablespoonful or two of cream ; flour the hands and make into balls ; tie in floured cloths. Steam or boil 40 minutes. Serve with custard sauce or some preferred pudding sauce. Preserve Dumplings. — Make same as strawberry or other berry dumplings, and put in a spoonful of rich preserves, any kind. Tie in cloths and boil 30 minutes. Send hot to table ; eat with sweet cream. Lemon Dumplings. — One pint of grated bread crumbs, one-half cupful chopped suet, one-half cupful sugar, pinch of salt, 1 level tablespoonful of flour, the grated yellow rind of a lemon. Moisten all with the whites and yolks of 2 well-beaten eggs and the juice of 1 lemon. Stir and put the mixture in small, well-buttered balls. Tie over each a floured cloth and boil or steam three-quarters of an hour. Turn out, and serve with any preferred sauce. Wine sauce is nice. Puff" Balls. — A piece of butter the size of an egg stirred with 3 well-beaten eggs, one-half cupful sour cream, a pinch of salt. Stir well and make into a stiff batter with flour. Drop by spoonfuls into DUMPLINGS, SHORT CAKES, ETC. 341 boiling water. Cook until the puffs rise to the surface. Dish hot with melted butter and serve for a side dish, or else with a sweet sauce for dessert. Strawberry Short Cake. — Put 1 quart of flour into a bowl, add 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder, 1 teaspoonful of salt and sift twice. Rub into this 1 tablespoonful of butter, and then add sufficient milk to make a soft dough, about 1^ cups. Take this out on the board and roll it out in a sheet about 1 inch thick. With a knife make it perfectly square, and put in a square, greased pan and bake, having the centre a little thinner than the edges. Have ready 3 boxes of berries, stemmed and mashed. Take a potato-masher and mash in the bowl, and then stir in a cup of sugar. After the cake has baked thoroughly, about 20 minutes, take it from the fire, and with a knife strip the edges and pull apart. Put one portion in a large platter and butter it thickly. Then cover up with strawberries. Put on the crust, cover it with strawberries, and serve at once with a good-sized pitcher of cold milk or cream. Instead of tearing the short cake apart, divide the dough into 2 or 3 parts, place the layers in the same tin, spreading melted butter between them. When baked, the layers will separate easily, and then proceed with the short cake as above. It may also be served cold. Cream Strawberry Short Cake. — One pint of sour cream, 1 tea- spoonful soda, pinch of salt. Flour to make a soft dough. Roll out 1^ inches thick, bake, tear apart, and butter, or else bake in layers, one above the other, in the same pan, buttering between each one. Prepare with berries as above. Serve with whipped or unwhipped cream. Whipped cream should always be preferred, since the un- whipped penetrates into the short cake, rendering it sodden and un- wholesome. Quick Strawberry Short Cake. — Three helping cups of flour, 2 teaspoons of cream of tartar and 1 teaspoon of saleratus sifted with flour, 2 tablespoons of sugar, a little salt and 1 tablespoon of melted butter worked into the flour ; then add 1 well-beaten egg and 2 cups of milk ; do not roll and knead on board, but put in biscuit pans soft, spread evenly with a great spoon : this recipe makes 2 short cakes ; bake in a hot oven 15 minutes ; when done split and spread on butter ; take 2 boxes of strawberries, hull and crush slightly in a deep dish, then add 1 j4 cups of sugar and spread between the two 342 DUMPLINGS, SHORT CAKES, ETC. layers ; spread a little butter over the top of short cake, or whipped cream over the top is very nice. Peacli Short Cake. — Peach short cake is considered by many finer than strawberry. Peal and slice one dozen mellow peaches. Put the fruit in a dish, sprinkle with granulated sugar and let stand half an hour. Make an ordinary short cake, roll the dough out to an inch in thickness and the size of jelly-cake tins. Place on buttered tins and bake in a hot oven about a quarter of an hour. When the cakes are baked, with a sharp knife split around the edge and break apart. Butter the lower piece and spread thick with sliced peaches. Place the other cake on top of the peaches and cover with the re- maining fruit. Serve hot with cream. Peacli Cobbler. — Fill a shallow pudding dish with peaches which have been pared and cut in half. Remove seeds, sprinkle well with sugar and flour. Fill about half full of water, cover with rich pie crust, bake in a slow oven 1 hour. To be eaten with cream sauce. Apple Short Cake. — Mix a stiff batter as for biscuit. Put in a deep pie-tin with a spoon ; bake separate, butter well and fill with a thick layer of very nice tart apple sauce. Sprinkle with sugar, re- place the top, dusting over with sugar, and serve plain, with sweet- ened cream or milk. Other fruit may be served in the same way. Powdered sugar is best. Currant Short Cake. — Make crust same as for strawberries, mash currants, sweeten plentifully, and you will hardly miss the straw- berries. Lienion Short Cake. — Make a rich short cake. Bake in jelly- cake tins ; let cool and spread with the lemon filling for lemon layer cake. Dust sugar over the top and serve. Jelly Short Cake. — Can be made in the same way, substituting jelly for lemon butter. Pineapple Short Cake. — Take half a cupful of butter, 1 cupful of sugar, half a cupful of milk, 2 cupfuls of flour and 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Bake in 2 layers and spread chopped pineapple between the layers after the cake is cold. This recipe is very popu- lar down where the pines grow, but any recipe for strawberry short cake will do as well by substituting the pine for the berries. Rhubarb Short Cake. — Make a rich biscuit crust. When baked, split ; butter and place between the layers and on top a sauce made DUMPLINGS, SHORT CAKES, ETC. 343 as follows : Two cupfuls of rhubarb, stewed and sweetened, to which has been added, just before removing from the stove, 1 cupful of chopped dates. This filling may be used for one-crust pies, but should be cooled before putting in the crust and a meringue spread on the top. Huckleberry Short Cake. — One quart huckleberries, 4 cups flour, 2 cups milk, 2 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder. Sift the salt with the flour and baking powder, chop in the shortening, add the milk and the beaten eggs, and mix quickly to a light dough. Roll out two sheets to fit a baking pan, making one sheet quarter of an inch thick, the other half an inch thick. Lay the thinner in the greased pan, spread the berries thickly over it, sprinkle with sugar, and lay on the upper crust. Bake about 20 minutes. Serve with cream and sugar, if desired. Chicag-o Short Cake. — Two tablespoonfuls butter and 1 teaspoon- ful baking powder mixed thoroughly with 1 quart of flour, enough cold water to form a soft dough. Roll about a half inch in thickness and place on a hot griddle, well greased. When brown on both sides, split with a sharp knife and butter, then lay the pieces together again. Five or six of these cakes can be laid one on top of the other and kept warm for half an hour if necessary. To serve, cut in quarters like a pie. A pleasant addition, if desired, is to put jelly or preserves between the layers. Or simply butter and serve with honey or maple syrup. Chicken Shortcake. — Make a biscuit dough by a baking-powder recipe and shorten it with butter. Divide it into three parts. Make one part into a cake, the size and shape of your platter, and bake it. Stew the chicken until tender, seasoning with thyme, pepper and salt. Split the shortcake, buttering both inner sides. Arrange the chicken on the lower half, cover with the upper, and pour over it as much gravy as it will take. Serve the rest in the gravy-boat. Sweet Shortcake. — Three tablespoonfuls butter creamed with a cup of powdered sugar, 3 eggs beaten separately, 1 cup sweet milk, 2i^ cups of flour, 3 tablespoonfuls baking powder. Bake in layers. P5E DfSHES Few persons appreciate how many dainty and palatable dishes may be made with cheese. It is authoritatively stated that cheese taken after a hearty meal or rich dessert acts as a digestive. Those who are fond of cheese will find the following recipes worthy of a trial, and those who do not know how appetizing cheese may be made will have many a dainty dish in store for them. It is becoming more and more the habit of epicurean households to serve the cheese with the salad. That it harmonizes better with our dinners when served at that point is the natural result of the place we give to sweets. The French, who put it just before the coffee, do not care for anything in the line of dessert, and count the sweets a very unimportant detail of the dinner. Split common crackers, butter them slightly on each side, dust salt over them and brown in a hot oven. They are delicious with coffee and cheese. We all know how soon cheese dries up and is unfit for the table, but this same waste cheese can be made as good as new, and very nice-looking, by grating fine on a horseradish grater. Prepare only as much as is needed for immediate use, and you will find it good enough for anybody. How to Keep Cheese from Monlding-. — Place the cheese in a cloth, wet with good cider vinegar, which is to be wrapped closely around the cheese. Not only will cheese be kept from moulding, but a ham in the same way. Rusk for Cheese. — Break the bread into small, rough pieces, dip each one quickly in and out of cold milk; put them upon a perfectly clean baking tin and bake in a hot oven. In a few minutes they will be crisp, when they must be taken out, allowed to get cold and put away in a tin canister, to be used when required. Cheese Straws. — Roll thin a rich pie-crust and spread thickly with grated cheese and a dash of cayenne pepper. Fold over several times, roll again, and spread with cheese, repeating this process three times. Then roll out one-eighth of an inch thick ; cut in strips 4 inches 344 CHEESE DISHES. 345 wide, and cut this paste in sticks one-eighth of an inch wide. Cut some of the paste in small rings, place both on buttered sheets, and bake in oven till light brown. Serve the straws through the rings like a bundle of sticks, or tie in bundles with bright ribbons. These are to be served with salad. Cheese Fing-ers. — Roll out a sheet of very light puff paste ; brush it over lightly with ice-water, cut in narrow strips, 5 or 6 inches long ; sprinkle with grated cheese, lay two strips together, arrange on a greased tin sheet, and bake in a quick oven for 15 minutes. Clieese Crusts. — They are made from half slices of stale bread, after trimming off the hard crust. Upon these oblongs of bread put a tablespoon of grated cheese, and brown slightly in the oven. These may be served hot or cold. Cheese Toast. — Spread thin slices of bread toasted a light brown with butter. Heap grated cheese on the slices of toast, sprinkle on half a teaspoon of mustard, one-fourth of a teaspoon of salt and a speck of cayenne. Put in a hot oven till the cheese begins to melt. Serve at once. Cheese Toast, Deviled. — Four tablespoonfuls grated cheese, 2 egg yolks, 4 tablespoonfuls grated bread, 2 tablespoonfuls butter. Beat the whole well together with a dessertspoonful of dry mustard and a little salt and pepper. Toast some bread lightly and cut it into small round or square pieces, spread the paste thick upon them, and place them in a hot oven and cover with a dish until heated. Then remove the dish and let the cheese mixture brown a little, and serve as soon as possible. Cheese Toast — II. Cut from a stale loaf of bread 6 slices about one-half inch thick. Beat 1 egg into a cupful of sweet milk, and add one-half pound of good cheese and 1 tablespoonful of butter. Put this mixture in a clean saucepan, set in a pan of boiling water and stir until quite smooth. Place the toast on a hot platter and cover with the dressing, in which should be added a pinch of cayenne. For a change this dish can be placed in the oven until a rich brown. It serves for luncheon or for a dinner course. Custard Cheese. — Remove the crust from 4 or 5 slices of bread and butter generously. Arrange in a buttered baking pan and sprinkle with some good sharp cheese. Beat well 4 eggs, add 3 cup- fuls of new milk and season with salt and a dash of cayenne. Pour 346 CHEESE DISHES. the mixture over the bread and bake in a hot oven until very nicely browned. Cheese Canapes. — Cut bread into slices one-quarter inch thick, 4 inches long and 2 inches wide ; spread it with butter and sprinkle it with salt and cayenne ; cover the top with grated American cheese or with grated Parmesan cheese, and bake it in the oven until the cheese is softened. Serve at once, before the cheese hardens. Cheese Squares. — Trim pieces of stale bread as neatly as pos- sible into squares and triangles. Make a sauce of a cupful of milk, half a cupful of grated cheese and 2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter. Lay the bread on a large flat baking dish ; pour the sauce over and bake until nicely browned. These are also very nice to serve with a plain consomme soup. Cheese Crackers. — A dainty morsel for the hungry half hour be- fore bedtime is " cheese crackers." Spread thin zephyrettes or salted crackers with a little butter and sprinkle lightly with grated Parmesan cheese. Place on a dish in the oven long enough to brown them slightly. These will keep for several days. Deviled Cheese Crackers. — Cover Saratoga flakes with grated old cheese, give a sharp sifting of cayenne pepper, place in oven until cheese is melted. Serve hot, using ordinary small, round crackers. Cheese Flakes. — Buy a small box of reception flakes, such as can be found at any first-class grocery. Butter each cracker, then grate cheese on them, place in pan, put in a quick oven and brown. These are delicious flakes for a whist party or picnics. Liiiiich Crackers. — Split common crackers, butter them slightly on each side, dust salt over them, and brown in a hot oven. They are delicious with coffee and cheese. Deviled Biscuit and Cheese. — Take water biscuits, split them and butter each half generously. Sprinkle over it a layer of cheese. Set these in a baking pan. Dust over with cayenne, and set in a quick oven for about 5 minutes. When cheese is melted serve very hot. Welsh Rarebit. — To make a highly seasoned rarebit place over the fire in a saucepan a tablespoonful of butter, and when it becomes melted put in 2 cups of cheese, broken into small pieces, a salt spoon- ful of salt, and half as much red pepper. Stir all the while, and when it becomes a soft mass, gradually stir into it 1 cup of ale. Meanwhile take the yolks of 2 eggs and add to them 3 teaspoonfuls of dry mus- CHEESE DISHES. 347 tard, the same quantity of Worcestershire sauce, and half a dozen drops of tobasco, and add this to the cheese mixture. If too thick add a little more ale. Pour over square pieces of toast and serve at once. Welsh Rarebit (without Ale). — A very simple and delicious rarebit may be made with 1 pound of cheese broken into pieces and put in a saucepan with half a cup of sweet cream, 1 teaspoonful of French mustard, a dash of paprika, a little salt, and 1 teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce. Place over the fire and stir until the cheese becomes melted. Have ready squares of toast, and pour the cheese mixture over them and serve immediately. Golden Buck. — Make same as above recipe, with the addition of a poached egg upon the top of each slice of toast and cheese mixture. Yorkshire Buck. — Same as a rarebit, with the addition of 2 strips of crisp bacon and 1 poached egg on top of each slice. Celery Cheese. — Take a head of celery, wash thoroughly, and boil until tender; drain well, and cut into small pieces. Have ready a half pint of cream and drawn butter, add pepper, salt and an ounce of grated cheese to it, put the celery into the sauce for a few minutes, then fill buttered scallop shells with the mixture, scatter grated cheese over the top, and bake for 10 minutes in a quick oven, when the cheese should be evenly browned. Browu Bread Savories. — Mix a sufficient quantity of grated cheese with thick cream until stiff, cut some slices of thin brown bread and butter, and spread between them the mixture, seasoned with a dust of pepper and celery salt. These should be eaten without delay. Cheese Puffs. — Place 4 ounces of grated cheese in a saucepan, with 1 }4 ounces of butter. Put over the fire, and when the ingre- dients begin to melt add 4 eggs beaten light, a saltspoon of salt, and half as much cayenne. Stir and cook until you can roll it up into a soft muff-shaped form, when serve at once. Cheese Ring's. — Take 2 ounces of grated cheese. It should be dry and rich. Mix with twice the quantity of sifted flour, salt to taste, and flavor with a teaspoonful of white pepper and a little cay- enne. Add the yolks of 2 eggs beaten light, the juice of a large, fresh lemon, and enough melted butter to form a paste. Roll it until an eighth of an inch thick. Make in small rings, flour them and let them bake until crisp. Tie them together when cool, 3 in a bunch, with narrow ribbon, and lay beside each plate. 348 CHEESE DISHES. Cheese Timbale. — Six eggs, 1 gill of milk, salt and pepper to taste, 2 tablespoons of grated cheese. Beat the eggs well without separating the yolks and whites, add the milk and seasoning; stir in the cheese, and pour into well-greased little tin pans with straight sides ; set these in a pan of hot water and bake in the oven ; when the eggs are firm turn out on a flat dish, and pour a white sauce over them. Cheese and Bacon. — An excellent dish and one very much liked for late suppers is iriade thus : Place in a small double boiler 6 ounces of grated cheese, 1 tablespoonful of butter, a saltspoon of salt, a pinch of cayenne pepper, half a teaspoonful of mustard, a half cup of milk, and 1 beaten egg. Stir over the fire until it is a creamy mass. Mean- while cut pieces of bread 2 inches wide and 3 long and toast them. Cover them with a thick layer of cheese mixture, and lay on each piece a slice of hot, crisp bacon. Place in the oven for a moment and the dish is ready to serve. Cheese Dessert. — Take as many slices of stale bread as needed ; melt 1 spoon of butter wnth 1 of lard in the frying-pan. Beat up 2 eggs and 2 spoons of sugar. Dip bread into sugar and eggs. Fry in hot lard and butter until it is a nice brown. Have as many thin slices of cheese as there are slices of bread. When the bread is browned put the cheese on it and set in the oven until the cheese is thoroughly warmed. Serve at once with tea or coffee. Cottage Cheese. — Place a panful of milk, which has soured enough to become thick, over a pan of hot water. Let it heat slowly until the whey has separated from the curd. Do not let it boil, or the curd will become tough. Then strain it through a cloth and press out all the whey. Stir into the curd enough butter, cream and salt to make it a little moist and of good flavor. Work it well with a spoon until it becomes fine grained and consistent. Then mould it into balls of any size desired. Sniearkase. — Pour a little boiling water into 1 quart or more of sour milk, stir, and let it stand 1 hour in a warm place, separate from the whey and put on ice ; in the morning season with salt, pepper and half a cup of cream. Cream Cheese. — Take sour cream, salt it slightly and hang it up in a linen bag to drain until dry. This takes two days or more, Then put in a deep dish, still in the bag, and let it ripen for a week, sprinkling it with salt daily. Good for luncheon. The art of making entrees really well and serving them in perfection is easily acquired, and is certainly worth learning, as those dishes never fail to meet with hearty appreciation. First, then, see that all the ingredients are of the finest quality, and mix them in exact accordance to the directions given in such case ; then see that the oven is just at the right heat, and let every separate item employed in the serving be made thoroughly hot before using ; send the entree to table as speedily as possible after it is cooked, as every moment it is kept waiting tends to destroy the puffiness which ren- ders it so enjoyable; and, lastly, never wash the tins in which the en- trees are cooked, but rub them well with a clean, soft cloth Some entrees to be used as side dishes, and others in the nature of desserts. Salmon Entree. — Put in a clean enameled stew-pan 3 tablespoon- fuls of butter and an equal amount of flour; blend these into a smooth paste ; season with salt, pepper, 1 tablespoonful anchovy sauce, and add three-fourths pint of milk. Stir constantly until the mixture boils. Draw the saucepan then on one side of the fire, and add 1 tablespoonful lemon juice, 1 dessert-spoonful minced parsley, the beaten yolks of 4 fresh eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls tomato pulp, and half pound of finely chopped raw salmon — weighed after chopping. When thoroughly mixed, stir in, very lightly, the whites of 6 fresh eggs which have been whipped to a stiff froth, with the addition of a pinch of salt. Have ready a properly prepared entree tin, and pour in the mixture ; then sprinkle the surface lightly with very fine light-brown bread raspings, scatter bits of fresh butter on the top, and bake in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour, after which ornament the entree top with wee patches of finely minced hot parsley and sifted ^SS yolk, and serve as quickly as possible, accompanied by some well-made sauce — anchovy, shrimp, maitre d'hotel, oyster or lobster — in a hot sauceboat. If salmon cannot be had, use any other fine, fresh fish instead. 849 350 ENTREES. Chicken Entree. — Melt 1 tablespoonful of butter, add the same quantity of flour and one-half cupful of milk ; when hot and smooth, add a pint of bread crumbs, cook a minute, and then add 1 pint of cooked chopped chicken. Separate 3 eggs, beat the yellows, and add to the mixture, takmg it from the fire while you do so ; add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a half teaspoonful of salt, a dash of red pepper, and then fold in lightly the frothed whites and the 3 eggs. Bake in individual paper or china cases, and serve as soon as taken from the oven. For a family luncheon it may be cooked in a baking-dish. Chicken and Ham Entree. — Mix together butter and flour as directed in salmon entree, then add seasoning of salt, pepper and mace, the strained juice of a fresh lemon, 1 teaspoonful of finely minced onion or eschalot, and three-quarters of a pint of rich, clear, white stock, and stir constantly over a moderate fire until the mixture boils ; then add — off the fire — 4 fresh egg yolks, half pound, scant, of finely minced cooked chicken, 3 ounces of lean cooked ham, also finely minced, and the whites of 6 fresh eggs seasoned with salt and whipped to a stiff froth, after which cook and serve as already di- rected, accompanied by rich sauce. Meat Entree. — Prepare a nice, savory mince of any kind of meat, seasoned to taste, and mixed with any good sauce, white or brown, according to the meat you have at hand. Now beat the whites of 2 or 3 eggs to a very stiff froth, with a little salt, a good seasoning of coralline pepper, and, when liked, a spoonful or two of grated Par- mesan cheese. Pile this on the top of the mince, which should be put into a souffle case, and put it in the oven till of a delicate brown. Sprinkle it with finely chopped chives or parsley, and serve at once. Any sort of meat can be served in this way, but vary the seasoning accordingly. Cheese Entree. — Place over the fire in a saucepan 2 tablespoon- fuls of butter, and when it is hot add a heaping tablespoonful of flour and stir until smooth. Then add a half cup of cream or milk and salt and cayenne to taste. Beat light the yolks of 3 eggs, and add them with a cupful of grated cheese. Remove from the fire and put in a cool place. When cold add the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Pour into a buttered dish and bake about 20 minutes. This, like all souffles, must be taken immediately from the oven to the ENTREES. 351 table. Some cooks add a teaspoonful of dry mustard instead of 1 dish. The preparation can be baked in small fancy cases, and one served to each person. Entree (Plaiu). — Heat 2 tablespoonfuls of butter in a frying-pan, stir in 2 dessertspoons of flour till smooth, then add 1 tumbler of milk ; heat till starch-like ; put in your pudding dish and stir in the unbeaten yolks of 4 eggs ; then whip the whites as light as possible with 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar, stir therein and bake in quick oven. Serve hot, with foaming sauce. Flavor with vanilla. Potato Eutree. — Roast 12 good potatoes and rub them through a coarse sieve ; pour a pint of boiling cream, flavored with grated rind and juice of 1 lemon, over the well-beaten yolks of 6 eggs, and mix lightly into this the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and stir it all into the potato ; pour the whole into a buttered and papered souffle dish, and bake. Cauliflower Entree. — Trim the vegetable neatly, and blanch it well, then boil it in the usual way until quite tender, after which take it up, drain it thoroughly, and divide it into tiny sprigs or flow- erets ; arrange these very lightly in a buttered souffle tin, after seasoning them nicely with salt, pepper and lemon juice; then pour over a mixture prepared as follows : Entree Mixture — Two tablespoonfuls of flour blended with 2 table- spoonfuls of butter, stir together in a clean granite saucepan over a moderate fire, then add the beaten yolks of 2 fresh eggs, a seasoning of salt and cayenne, and half pint of milk, and continue stirring until the mixture boils ; then draw the pan on one side, stir in lightly 4 tablespoonfuls of grated cheese (equal parts of Parmesan and good American) and the whites of 3 fresh eggs which have been slightly salted and stiffly whipped. Put on the paper band and finish off with fine brown raspings and bits of butter, as directed for salmon. Bake carefully in a well-heated oven, then ornament the top, as quickly as possible, with alternate patches or rings of sifted &^^ yolk or finely- minced parsley, and serve immediately, accompanied or not, by some well-made cream Bechamel, French white, or maitre d'hotel sauce in a sauce-boat. Various vegetables may be made into a souffle, such as aspara- gus, freshly-shelled green peas, very small even-sized Brussels sprouts, or properly prepared artichokes, cucumbers, vegetable marrows, 352 ENTREES. French beans, etc., cut up into small, neat pieces or slices, and pre- pare as above. Even a mixture of vegetables will answer. Ground Rice Entree. — Put into a suitable stewpan 2 ounces of fine white sugar, 3 ounces of butter, 1 large tablespoonful of flour, the grated rind of a fresh lemon, 3 ounces of ground rice, three- fourths pint of milk, 4 egg yolks, a pleasant flavoring of vanilla, or some other essence, and stir together over a moderate fire until the mixture boils and forms a nice smooth paste ; then remove the pan from the fire. Stir in 4 tablespoonfuls of cold milk and the whites of 6 eggs properly prepared, and pour the mixture into a soufBe tin, or dish, which has previously been got ready, scattering tiny bits of but- ter on the top, and bake in the usual manner. Some dainty sauce, or a compote of fruit may accompany this dish, or not, just according to taste. Note. — Souffles of arrowroot, tapioca, sago, semolina, etc., are all exceedingly nice when made according to the foregoing instructions. Potato Souffle. — Make from freshly cooked Irish potatoes, or mashed potatoes, warmed up. To six medium-sized mashed potatoes add 1 tablespoonful of melted butter, yolk of 1 &^^, 1 gill of cream, 1 teaspoonful of salt and a dash of white pepper. Mix smooth and beat light; into this lightly stir whites of 4 eggs, beaten stiff; put in hot buttered dish, grate cheese over it, brown and serve quickly in the same dish. Souffle-Tin. — If a proper souffle-tin is come-at-able, it is the right thing to use ; and as it forms the lining of a silver souffle-dish, it looks exceedingly pretty on the table. But if something else has to be substituted, use a deep, straight-sided cake-tin, or even a deep pie- dish ; and in every case fix firmly round the tin or the dish which is used a strong paper band, to stand about three inches above the top, so that when the souffle rises, as it does very considerably, the pre- paration may be kept from running over the sides. When done, if a proper tin has been used, just remove the paper band and slip the tin gently into the silver dish, which has been made thoroughly hot in readiness ; but if a cake-tin or a pie-dish has been employed, have ready a very hot, neatly-folded napkin, or fancy frill of some kind, and as soon as ever the paper band has been removed, fix this on and serve the souffle set on a very hot, fancy dish-paper. i^PASTRY The excellency of pastry depends quite as much on its being properly baked as it does on the ingredients and their preparation. If the oven is too cool, the crust of pies, tarts or patties will fall and be heavy; if, on the contrary, the heat is too great, it will burn before baking. A small piece of crust may be placed in the oven to test it, or a little flour sprinkled on the bottom of the oven. If it browns readily, the oven is in proper condition ; if it turns black, it is too hot ; if it only colors slightly, it is too slow. When prepared for baking, all pastry should be ice cold, and set in the hottest part of the oven. After the pastry has risen, the heat may be slightly decreased, or the pies covered with a sheet of paper. This latter precaution is especially necessary for large fruit or meat pies. An improvement in pie crust is made by the addition of baking powder, in the proportion of about 1 small teaspoonful of baking powder, to a quart of flour. To make pie crust more flaky, brush the paste as often as it is rolled out with the white of an egg, then put on the bits of butter, fold and roll again. This causes it to rise in flakes, which is the great beauty in puff paste. Pie crust can be kept a week and be perfectly good, if it is put in a tightly covered dish and set on ice in summer and a cool place in winter. In this way a fresh pie can be made every day without trouble. In baking cream, custard or pumpkin pies, it is well to partly bake the under crust before putting in the filling. If stewed fruit is to be used, have it perfectly cold before putting in, otherwise it will soak, and render the under crust heavy. A marble slab makes a cool, nice bread-board for pastry. Roll pastry in one direction, from you. Tart pies should always have a heavy edge to the under crust Lay on a narrow strip of pastry and pinch together with the fingers, or cut the crust larger than the tin and roll the edge over. Ice- water, or very cold water, should be used for mixed pastry. U'^e as little as possible. The butter or lard used in shortening should be 23 353 354 PIES AND PASTRY. cold. Cut the shortening into the flour with a knife, and keep the fingers out of the dough as much as possible. Roll the under crust of a pie a little thicker than the upper. Two kinds of crust may be used in making a pie. Divide the dough, which should be of a moderate richness. Leave a little more than half of it for the lower crust. Roll in more butter or lard into the smaller half Spread and fold ; roll again. Repeat this, and the result will be a flaky crust to use for the upper part of the pie. To dot the butter over the crust is better than to spread it evenly. One-third cornmeal added to pie crust makes it lighter and more digestible. Biscuit pie crust is wholesome. Apples used for mince- pie need not be peeled. Wash, dry and chop fine. Dried apples, soaked over night and chopped fine, may be substituted for the fresh fruit in mince-meat. Dried fruit, prepared with sugar, such as dried cherries, gooseberries, etc., may be substituted instead of raisins in mince pies. Soak over night in as little water as possible and throw in both water and fruit. This will be found very nice as well as eco- nomical. White potatoes, chopped fine and soaked over night in vinegar, are sometimes used as a substitute for apples in mince-meat. Fruit pies take less sugar if they are sweetened after baking. Re- move the upper crust and put in the sugar. Wild grapes may be pre- served for winter use by putting in a jar and covering with molasses. These will be found very nice for pies. Apples cut in quarters and stewed in sweet cider or molasses are good for plain pies. Season with cinnamon or nutmeg. This will keep in excellent condition for several months. Pumpkins that have commenced to decay may be preserved by cutting up the best parts, stewing until soft, sweetening well with sugar and molasses and seasoning with ginger. Scald in the season- ing thoroughly. Keep in a stone jar in a cool place. When wanted for use thin the desired amount with milk and eggs. Never grease a pie plate, but sift a thin layer of flour over ; there will be fat enough from the paste to slip the pie from the plate ; plates will keep sweet longer. Sift a tablespoonful of pulverized sugar over the top of two- crust pies before baking and see how delicious it makes them. If the top of a pie is brushed over with an egg, it gives it a ver}^ orna- mental gloss. To prevent the juice of pies from running over, thrust little funnels of white paper into the cuts on top. through which the PIES AND PASTRY. 355 steam may escape and the juice boil up, and then run back into the pie again when it stops cooking. Again, fruit pies can have a narrow band of muslin around the pie, covering the edge. This keeps in the juice and prevents the besmeared appearance which fruit pies are apt to have. Or, put the usual amount of sugar in a bowl, add enough cold water to make a sort of dough, stir in a tablespoonful of flour, or a teaspoonful of cornstarch, mix thoroughly. Pour this over the fruit. Put on the top crust and bake. To Make a Pie. Roll out the crust to fit the pie-plate. Press it neatly in shape, and then cut off the edges evenly. Take some more of the paste and the fragments left from trimming off the under crust, and roll out for the upper crust. Fold this together, and cut 3 or 4 half-inch slits about one-quarter inch from middle. This permits the escape of steam without injuring the shape of the pie. Now fill the pie-plate with the prepared filling. Wet the top edge of the rim. Lay the upper crust across the centre of the pie, turn back the folded-over side, fasten the two edges by pressing with the thumb, and cut off the paste even with the tin. Run a pastry wheel around the edge, or simply notch with a fork, or leave plain. Bake a light brown and until the filling boils up through the openings. Wet the under crust with the white of an egg to prevent fruit juices, or soft fillings, from soaking the under crust. Plain Pie Crust. — Cut 1 cup (half a pound) of butter into 3 cups of flour; add 1 teaspoonful of salt and sufficient ice-water to moisten and roll. A small teaspoonful of baking powder is an addition ; half teaspoonful salt. The secret of making good pastry is to touch it as little as possible with the hand. To make the pies nicer, one-quarter of the shortening may be left out, and the pastry for the upper crust can be rolled flat, dotted with butter and lard ; sprinkle with flour, fold together and roll again, repeating this operation until the shortening is used. This will give a flaky upper crust. Three-fourths of cup of shortening can be used with the baking powder. Some cooks prefer lard to butter, as making a whiter crust. Extra Mince-Meat. — Two pounds raw beef, chopped fine ; 2 pounds suet, minced fine ; 4 pounds tart apples, chopped ; 2 pounds currants ; 2 pounds raisins ; 2 pounds citron, sliced fine ; 2 pounds brown 3oG PIES AND PASTRY. sugar; 1 quart New Orleans molasses ; 4 tablespoonfuls salt; ly( tablespoonfuls mixed spices, cinnamon, cloves and allspice ; hall ounce white pepper; 2 grated nutmegs; juice of 2 lemons ; 1 quart cider; 1 quart of brandy, or fruit juice. Mix first meat, which be sure is not cooked, with salt, suet and spices ; then apple, fruit; next lemons, then sugar. Should be made several weeks before using. Mock Mince Pie. — Four crackers, rolled ; 2 eggs, half cupful chopped raisins, half cupful raisins, half cupful vinegar, 1 cupful hot water, one-quarter cupful butter, 1 cupful sugar, 1 cupful molasses, 1 teaspoonful each of all kinds of spices, 1 teaspoonful salt. This makes 3 pies. Glazing- Pastry. — To glaze or ice pastry, which is the usual method for fruit tarts, etc., beat the white of an egg to a froth. When the crust is nearly baked brush it over with this, and sift granulated sugar over it. Put back in the oven to glaze for a few minutes, being careful that the glaze does not burn. Puff Paste. — One pound of flour, three-fourths pound of butter, the yolk of 1 egg; chop half of the butter in the flour, then add the beaten yolk, and as much ice water as is needed to work all into a dough ; roll out thin, and spread on some of the butter, fold closely, buttered side in, and reroll ; repeat until the butter is all used up ; keep in a cool place until you wish to use it Lienion Mering-ue Pie. — Yolks of 3 eggs, creamed, with 1 cupful sugar; add the unbeaten whites of 2 eggs. Beat the whole until light. Add 3 lemons' juice and grated rind, 1 tablespoonful butter. Stand the bowl in a basin of boiling water over the fire and stir until the mixture thickens ; set away to cool. Line a pie-dish with good paste and bake ; then pour in the lemon mixture. Beat the remain- ing white of egg with 3 tablespoonfuls powdered sugar; put this meringue over top of the pie and set in oven until a golden brown. Frosting. — Beat whites of 2 eggs stiff, then boil 1 cup of sugar in a little water till it strings from fork, then pour on the whites and .stir fast; then spread on pie with a knife which has been wet in cold water; then set in oven a couple of minutes to set the frosting. PIES AND PASTRY. 35^ .^■^ Leiuou Molasses Pie. — Take 1 lemon (if small, 2), pare and boil the peel and then chop, with 1 cup of raisins ; then add 1 cup of sugar, either white or brown; one-half cup of molasses, 1 tablespoon of flour stirred thin in cold water ; a small piece of butter, and 1 cup of boiling water; add the juice of the lemons and mix all together. These are to be baked with two crusts. Sliced Leiuoii Pie. — Line the pie-plate with rich crust, put in 1 cup of sugar. Slice a large lemon, after peeling very thin, taking out the seeds. Put on the upper crust, pressing very tightly; bake slowly 1 hour. The lemon and sugar form a delightful tart jelly. Lemon Pie Without Eg-g-s. — This is good and convenient to have ; juice and grated rind of 2 lemons, 4 pounded crackers, 2 cups of water, 1^ cups of sugar; 2 pies. Orange Pie. — Prepare 1 cup of orange juice and pulp, and the grated rind of half an orange. Cream 1 tablespoonful of butter, add 1 cup of sugar, the yolks of 2 eggs, well beaten, and the orange. Soak 2 tablespoonfuls of cracker crumbs in half a cup of milk, and add them to the orange and egg mixture. Bake in one crust and cover with a me- ringue of the whites of the eggs beaten with 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar. Apple Pie. — Pare and core tart ripe apples. Slice thin. Fill the under crust. Add a small teacupful of sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of water. Dredge the top well with flour. Dot over with bits of butter ; flavor with cinnamon or nutmeg. Add the upper crust. Bake about 40 minutes. If the apples are not tart enough, add the lemon juice. A nice apple sauce may be used in pie shells. See above. Sweet cream may be served with apple pies. Bake a nice apple pie ; cut it hot, and pour cream over it. Serve immediately. Delicious. Winter Apple Pie. — Chop half a dozen large apples quite fine : mix them with the juice of a lemon and a little grated rind, 1 cup of chopped currants and raisins, 1 cup of sugar, one-half cup of butter ; cut in small pieces. Mix all together, lay in a pie-plate lined with paste, cover and bake. Nutmeg G-rater. 358 PIES AND PASTRY. Apple Mering-ue Pie. — Line a pie-plate with nice Crust. Fill with stewed apples, sweetened and flavored Bake in a moderate oven until the paste is a light brown. Allow the whites of 2 eggs for each pie, beat them stiff and add 1 tablespoonful of sugar and a little extract of vanilla. When the pies are baked, spread the meringue over them, and return to the oven a few minutes. Pork Apple Pie. — Line the pie-plate with good crust ; slice in a layer of apples ; cut bits of salt pork over them ; dust on a little cinna- mon ; repeat this once more. Cover the whole with three-fourths cupful sugar. Put on the top crust, and bake slowly about 1 hour. Some cooks use 4 tablespoonfuls of molasses to sweeten this pie instead of sugar. Custard Pie, Plain. — Heat 1 pint of milk, boiling hot, mix to- gether 2 tablespoonfuls flour, half cupful sugar, 2 eggs. Stir into the boiling milk and cook 10 minutes, taking care not to burn. Take from the stove. Flavor to suit. Pour it into the crust, which should have been already baked. Leave out white of 1 egg, if wished, and whip to a froth with a spoonful of sugar, and spread it over the top of the pie as soon as it is cool. Place in the oven to harden. Harlequin Cream Pie. — Cover a pie tin with pastry. Put a layer of bright-colored jelly (currant is best) in the bottom ; fill up with mock cream filling (see recipe) ; afterwards cover with a meringue or frosting. This pie is delicious, and when cut is ornamental in ap- pearance. Eg-gless Pumpkin Pie. — Peel and cut the pumpkin in small pieces ; stew until tender, in very little water, or steam until done, and mash. Have the pulp as dry as possible. Beat smooth or rub through a colander. Turn 1)4 pints of boiling milk upon 1 quart of the sifted pumpkin. Sweeten with two-thirds of a cup of molasses and half cupful sugar, half teaspoonful salt ; spice or not to suit the taste. A teaspoonful each of cinnamon and ginger is a good flavor- ing. The boiling milk causes the pumpkin to swell in baking, so that it is as light as if eggs had been used. Custard Pumpkin Pie. — To every quart of cooked and strained pumpkin (prepared according to directions above given) add 1 quart of milk and 3 eggs. One teaspoonful of flour rubbed smooth in a little of the milk will make the pie cut more solid. Sweeten to taste with brown sugar, or sugar and molasses half and half. If the milk PIES AND PASTRY. 359 is not very rich, add 1 teaspoonful melted butter to this rule. Season with cinnamon and nutmeg to taste, or ginger and cinnamon. Mo- lasses helps' give the pie a rich color. The rim of a pumpkin pie is apt to scorch before the filling is done. On this account to heat the pumpkin scalding hot before putting in the pie tins is a good plan. Glaze the pie-crust before doing this way, and bake immediately that the crust may not grow sodden. Plain Pumpkin Pie. — One quart of sifted pumpkin, 2 table- spoonfuls cornstarch, 1 quart of milk, 1 egg ; sweeten and flavor ac- cording to any of the before-given rules ; rub the cornstarch smooth in a little of the milk. Bake in one crust. Very good. Sqiiasli Pie. — Cut the squash in pieces and steam till done ; beat smooth or rub through a colander. Hubbard squash is best. To 1 quart of sifted squash add 1 quart of milk, 4 eggs well beaten, 1 cupful sugar, 1 tablespoonful of mixed powdered cinnamon, mace and ginger, 1 teaspoonful salt, level. This will make two large pies. Raise the edges of the pastry a little to prevent overflow. Mering-ue Squash Pie. — Prepare squash as above. Take 2 cup- fuls squash, 1 cupful of sweet milk, 1 cupful of sugar, the yolks of 4 eggs well beaten, a pinch of salt, half teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, and one-third teaspoonful of ginger. Mix all the ingredients thor- oughly, line a pan with paste and fill it. Bake until done. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, add half cupful of sugar, spread it over the pies, and leave them in oven until meringue is a rich brown. Chocolate Pie. — Half cupful sugar, 3 cupful milk, 1 teaspoonful butter, scald together ; add 2 tablespoonfuls grated chocolate, yolks of 2 eggs, 3 teaspoonfuls cornstarch, dissolved in a little cold milk. Stir into the hot milk and sugar until thick and smooth. Flavor with half teaspoonful vanilla. Line a pie-plate with a rich crust and bake. Fill this shell with the mixture. Make a meringue of the whipped whites of the eggs sweetened. Put in the oven to set. Or, whip one-quarter cup of sweet cream to a froth and spread over the choco- late mixture. Cranberry Mering-ue Pie. — To make cranberry pie with eggs : Take 1 coffeecupful of finely chopped cranberries and a cup of sugar beaten with 1 whole egg and the yolks of 2 eggs. Mix them thor- oughly, and turn into a plate lined with pie crust, and bake in a mod- erate oven. Beat the whites of 2 eggs to a stiff froth, and add 2 360 PIES AND PASTRY. tablespoonfuls of suijar. When the pie is baked, spread the meringue roughly over the top and return to the oven for a few moments to brown hghtly. Cranberry Molasses Pie. — To 1 quart chopped cranberries add 2 cups of sugar and half cup of molasses, 1 cup of boiling water, 2 tablespoons of cornstarch ; mix thoroughly, and cook until about as thick as raspberry jam ; when cool, fill pie-plate lined with rich crust ; put narrow strips of crust across the top and bake. Gooseberry Tart Pie. — Line a pie-dish with a rich crust, place .inside the dish a quart of picked gooseberries and plenty of sugar, add a little water. Have a heavy rim to the pie-crust, and leave the pie open, or finish with cross-bars of paste over the top. Peach Meriiig-ue Pie. — Line a deep earthen pie-plate with a rich pie-crust that has been rolled thin. Peel and slice enough peaches to fill the plate very full, and sift sugar over them. Crack half a dozen of the peach stones and take out the meat, blanch, ciiop fine and scatter among the fruit. Bake in moderate oven. For the meringue, use the white of 2 eggs, beaten into a stiff froth, and 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar. Spread over the peaches and return to the oven and brown lightly. Delicious. Meringue for Pudding's or Pies. — Beat the whites of 3 eggs to a stiff froth, add 3 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, dried and sifted, and the juice of half a small lemon. Spread this meringue over the pie, dredge it liberally with powdered sugar, and put it in a moderately hot oven. At the end of 10 minutes it should be a light, even brown all over. If it browns more rapidly, the oven is too hot, and nothing is so disastrous to the success of a meringue as a too-hot oven. A properly baked meringue rises slowly and evenly, and does not brown until it has risen, nor does it fall flat when taken from oven. Peach Pie. — Peel, stone and slice the peaches. Line the pie-plate with crust, and lay in the fruit, sprinkling sugar over liberally in proportion to their sweetness. Allow 3 peach kernels, chopped fine, to each pie. Pour in a very little water. Bake with an upper crust, or with cross-bars of paste across. A variation of this is to peel, halve and stone medium-sized peaches. Fill a deep pie-plate with them, heaping them towards the centre of the dish and sprinkling them liberally with sugar. Cover with a top crust and bake. Eat while warm. PIES AND PASTRY. S6l Peach Custard Pie. — Use 1 crust ; peel peaches and halve them, and turn the hollow side upward ; sweeten as you would a peach pie ; take 1 egg, a 'pinch of salt, 1 tablespoonful of sugar; beat; add milk enough to cover the peaches; bake. Eat when partly cold. Canned peaches will answer as well as fresh. Meringue Strawberry Pie. — Make a very rich pie crust and cut it round as a dinner plate ; bake it light brown in a quick oven ; the minute it is done cover it with strawberries rolled in sugar ; over the berries spread a meringue made of the whites of 4 eggs beaten stiff, with 3 tablespoons of sugar ; put back in oven and bake a golden brown. It is delicious served hot or cold. Instead of the meringue, whip half cupful sweet cream and heap over the top. Ripe Tomato Pie. — Line a pie-plate with a nice crust. Peel and slice sufficient tomatoes (half ripe ones are really better) to fill the pie. Sprinkle over the top half a cupful of sugar, 1 teaspoonful of flour, butter the size of a walnut, cut this in bits, and flavor with lemon. Cover with an upper ciust. Green Tomato Pie. — Line a pie tin with rich pie crust and sprin- kle over the bottom 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 teaspoonful of ground ginger or cinnamon, 1 tablespoonful of butter, and two-thirds cupful of sugar. Fill with green tomatoes sliced thin. Pour overall half a cupful of vinegar, and bake with a top crust. Apricot Pies, Dried. — Soak 1 cup of dried apricots over night ; in the morning cool the apricots, and sweeten as for sauce; let it cool. Bake with 2 crusts; have the pie quite moist. This makes one medium-sized pie. A tart pie can be made by using an under crust and putting cross bars of pastry over the top of the pie. Clierry Pie. — Line a deep pie-dish with plain paste, and brush the latter over with white of egg, to prevent soaking. Fill the dish nearly full of pitted cherries, and over them spread evenly from a half to a whole cupful of sugar, according to the size of the dish and the acidity of the fruit. Cover carefully after dredging with flour. Tarts and Cheese Cakes. Tart Shells. — Line small tins or patty pans with nice pie or puff paste. Prick two or three times with a fork to prevent blistering. Glaze according to recipe ; sprinkle with granulated sugar. Bake and put away. Ends of paste left from pie-making may be used in S62 PIES AND PASTRY. this fashion. They are always convenient to have on hand for an emergency, since filHng with jelly or preserved fruit makes a dainty dish for unexpected guests. Tai't Paste. — One cupful butter, 1 tablespoonful white sugar, 1 white of an egg, 3 tablespoonfuls water, flour to roll out. They may be baked in gem pans. The shells will keep quite a while in a close tin box. They may be heated for a moment in the oven. Chocolate Tarts. — Line patty tins with puff paste and bake, then fill with the following mixture : One pint of boiling milk, the yolks of 3 eggs well beaten, 1 tablespoon cold water, 10 ounces of grated chocolate, 1 ounce of sugar, a pinch of salt and a tablespoon of but- ter. Cook until it thickens, then cool. Cocoaniit Tarts. — Dissolve half a pound of sugar in half a pint of water ; add a pound of grated cocoanut, and stir over the fire for 5 minutes. Let cool. Add the beaten yolk and the white of 1 egg. Line little tart pans with puff paste; fill with the mixture and bake. Berry Tarts. — Line small patty pans with rich crust and filling with raspberries, blackberries, whortleberries, or other berries Heap up high in the centre ; sprinkle freely with powdered sugar ; wet the edges of the paste with ice water ; lay on a thin crust of light puff paste ; press the edges together, and with a sharp knife trim off evenly ; press around the base of the fruit about a fourth of an inch from the edge of the pan, so as to push the fruit up in a cone in the centre, when the juice will run around the groove formed by pressing. Bru^h crust of each tart over with ice water and bake in quick oven. Strawberry Tarts. — Line little tart-pans with delicate puff pas»:e, fill with strawberry jam, sprinkle the tops with sugar and bake in a very quick oven. Let cool and pile whipped cream over the top. Arrange on a large, flat dish and set on the luncheon or tea table. Cranberry Tartlets. — Line patty pans with paste, fill with cran- berry sauce and bake. When done, spread over the top a meringue formed by beating the white of 1 egg with 1 tablespoon of pulverized sugar and return to the oven to brown. Apple Tarts. — Line patty pans with nice pastry. Bake ; fill with sifted, sweetened apple sauce. Dust powdered sugar over the top or heap them with whipped creafii. Grandmother's Apple Tarts. — Line round patties with rich paste. In each place the half of a peeled, tart apple, drop a tea- PIES AND PASTRY. 3G3 spoonful of cream, a bit of butter and as much sugar as it will hold in the centre. Grate nutmeg over and bake in a quick oven until the apples are done. Whipped Creaiu Tarts. — Sweeten and flavor the cream. Put in puff paste tart shells with a dot of currant jelly on each, Raisiu Tarts. — Take pie crust and cut out with scalloped cutter ; use two crusts to each tart. For filling, 1 cupful chopped raisins, half cup of sugar. Gi'eeu Gage Tartlets. — Choose fine and sound, but not overripe, gages, and take out the stones without entirely dividing the fruit ; let them simmer in syrup for about 5 minutes and let cool. Make some good short pastry, roll it out very thinly, stamp it into rounds with a fluted cutter which is half an inch larger in diameter than the tartlet moulds ; then line the moulds with the rounds. Drain the gages, set them closely together in the moulds, and bake in a well-heated oven. When baked, brush the edges of the pastry with syrup, and let them dry in the oven for a minute. Boil the syrup in which the gages were cooked till it is thick. When cold pour a little into each tartlet and serve. Delicious. Maids of Honor. — One cupful of sour milk, 1 cupful sweet milk, 1 tablespoonful melted butter, yolks of 4 eggs, juice and rind of 1 lemon, and 1 small cupful of white sugar. Put both kinds of milk in a double boiler, or in one dish, set in another of boiling water and let become sufficiently heated to set the curd. Strain off the milk, rub the curd through a colander, stir the curd, butter, sugar, beaten eggs and lemon all together. Line patty pans with rich paste, and fill with the mixture. Bake until firm in the centre, which will take from 10 to 15 minutes. Cheese Cakes. — Take 1 cup of curd, made by straining loppered milk through a cheese-cloth, having first brought the milk to blood heat ; mix with a tablespoonful of butter, half a cupful of sugar, the yolks of 2 eggs and a cupful of sweet cream. Mix over the fire until it thickens up, then flavor with lemon or rose, and when cool fill little pans lined with rich pastry, as for tarts. Cocoaniit Cheese Cakes. — Make as above, with the addition of a small cupful of desiccated cocoanut in the filling. Make cake by a reliable recipe and follow it closely. Sift the flour before mea- suring, again with the baking powder, and the same with cream of tartar. In measur- ing a half spoon, fill level full, smoothing y.'y' off with a knife ; then lengthwise, so as to have it exact. Beat butter and sugar to a cream, and add yolks of eggs, beating thoroughly. Beat the egg whites separately, adding after all the flour is stirred in. Fruit, for all nice cakes, should be picked, washed and dried, the day before making. Dust with flour before using, and mix with the hand till each is powdered, so that they will mix evenly through the dough. Any fruit or nuts not floured will sink to the bottom. The recipe usually gives the time, if long beating is required. Some plain tea-cakes and gingerbread can be made quickly. Line pans with buttered paper; several thick- nesses for large cakes. The oven should be just right for the parti- cular kind of cake you are baking. Layer cakes, sponge, and most small cakes need a quick oven. Rich cakes must bake slowly. Always test the oven. If the hand can bear the heat 20 or 25 seconds, it is in good order. Layer cakes take 20 minutes each to bake. Loaf cakes froman hour and a quarter to three hours, accord- ing to size and kind. To measure accurately a teaspoonful of dry material, take up a heaping spoonful of sifted material and shake it lightly until it is rounded above the surface enough to correspond exactly with the concave surface. An even or scant teaspoonful means a spoon filled lightly, and leveled with a knife to the surface of the spoon, while a heaping spoonful means all the spoon will hold of any sifted material. In using solids, especially butter or lard, a knife should be employed to deftly even off the superfluous amount. An " even " cupful of any thing means a cup full to the brim, so full that only the steadiest hand can carry it without spilling. A " brim- ming" cupful, as its name indicates, is a cup running over. A scant cupful lacks a qiarter or half inch of reaching the top of the measure, while a solid cupful is something packed as firmly as possible. 364 CAKES. 365 Do not measure the butter loosely, but pack it in solid, and have exact measure' ; unless the rule calls for a heaping cup of flour or sugar, take a knife and draw across the top of the cup, leaving it level full. A tablespoonful of melted butter means a tablespoonful of butter after melting, while a tablespoonful of butter melted, means a tablespoonful measured before melting. Sugar, salt, flour, soda, spices, and mustard, should always be sifted or stirred up lightly before measuring, as when packed they are compressed to much less than their rightful bulk. Grease the cake tins with fresh lard (for cake made with butter — with butter if for sponge cake) ; dredge over a little flour, and then shake off all that will come off It is only rich cakes that require the tins in which they are baked to be lined with buttered paper. Be careful not only to butter the paper to prevent it from adhering to the cake, but also to butter the tin to prevent the paper from sticking to it. An earthen basin is best for beating eggs or cake mixture. Cake should be beaten with a wooden spoon. A wooden spoon is about the best, as the handle will not bend like a metal one. It takes a great deal of strength for the final beating, but unless it is given the texture of the cake will be coarse. All loaf cakes should be baked in square tins rather than round, and the mixture should not reach the top by about three-fourths of an inch, to allow for raising. The temperature of the oven is a very important factor. It should not be too hot at first, or the outside will bake so much sooner than the inside, as to spoil the cake. Neither should it be too cold, or the cake will fall at once. If water dropped on the bottom hisses, it is hot enough for baking. If the cake shows a ten- dency to brown too quickly on the top, cover it with a sheet of brown paper; if, on the contrary, the bottom cooks too rapidly, set the oven grate beneath it. H.ive the fire steady, and do not shake the stove or open the oven any oftener than is neces- sary. If sponge cake is mixed with cold water it will be yellow, but if boiling hot water be used for mixing, the cake will be white. At any time when Sugar Box. the cook requires the white of an egg and not the yolk, break the shell carefully and drop the untouched yolk into a cup of cold water. Here it will keep for several days if necessary, to be used when re- quired. To make whites cf eggs be-.t quickly, put in a small pinch 366 CAKES. of salt. When making cake in warm weather, place the eggs in cold water a few minutes before you beat them. This simple hint causes eggs to froth well on the hottest day. The only secret of good cake is fine-grained sugar, and a thorough mixing of ingredients. With sour milk or molasses use soda instead of baking powder. In cooking it is well to remember that soda should never be dissolved in hot water, because if it is some of the gases would then be liberated and wasted, and a greater amount of soda would be needed to make good this waste than if the soda were dissolved in cold water. Cakes calling for milk can be made with the same amount of water, with better success. The cake will be lighter and more spongy. If the molasses and butter to be used in gingerbread be heated together to almost the boiling point, before being stirred in with the other ingredients, the cake will be improved. Heat the knife before cutting warm bread or cake. To test nutmegs, prick with a pin, and if they are good the oil will instantly spread around the puncture. If desired to ice a loaf cake, it is better to leave it till the next day, and then apply to the bottom instead of the top. When a cake tin is lined with paper, it is well to know how to re- move the paper from the cake, when cooked, without damaging its appearance. Turn the cake from the tin on to a sieve, and when it has partly cooled turn the cake bottom upwards, and brush the paper with chilled water till it is thoroughly damp, when the paper can easily be peeled off. If, after a cake has been baked, it persists in sticking to the bottom of the pan, don't despair. Merely turn the pan upside down and press close to it a very wet cloth. This will bring the cake out in a hurry. A dish of water placed in a hot oven where pies, cakes or puddings are being baked, will prevent them from scorching. Shake and jar a tin after the cake batter is in. This expels the bubbles of air, and lessens the danger of falling. A cake pan with a tube bakes a large loaf of cake more uniformly. Cake tins should be gently warmed in cold weather before the cake batter is put in. Yolks of eggs, when not used in cakes, may be utilized in various ways, such as salad dressings, and also in gold cake. Butter that is too salt should be washed in cold water two or three times before using it in cake. Cake materials should be gotten together in cold weather some time before they are to be used, and kept in a warm place that they may be mixed more easily. CAKES. 367 Substitute for Brandy. — As a substitute for brandy or wine in dark fruit cake, the same amount of clear, very strong coffee or boiled sweet cider can be used. Coffee is really preferable. The same amount of rosewater, or lemon juice, or ] or 2 extra egg yolks will take the place of wine. Testing- the Cake. — Most cooks test a cake with a broom splint ; put it in quickly, and if it comes out dry and clean the cake is done. If cleanliness is desirable, however, it might be suggested that a very good plan is to keep a knitting needle in the kitchen-table drawer for testing cakes. A surer way of testing cake in the oven is to draw it to the edge of the oven, and put the ear close to it, and when it is not sufficiently baked a slight sputtering noise will be heard, but when thoroughly done there will be no sound. To Sweeten Butter. — If you have butter that is not entirely sweet, put it in a porcelain dish, with a little salt and a tiny piece of soda, place over a fire and bring to a boil. Turn it into a stone jar and set it in a cool place. The butter will be found perfectly sweet and not too salt for cooking. The impurities will settle in the bottom of the jar. To Keep Fruit Cake Fresh. — The secret of keeping any fruit cake fresh and nice for over a year is to wrap the loaves in a well- buttered white paper, and tie them up, and place in a stone jar and cover. Once in a while it is a good plan to open the jar and leave un- covered for 5 or 10 minutes. Fruit cake, if it is to be kept any length of time before eating — and a good fruit cake is always improved by so doing — should be iced as it is needed. A couple of apples or a slice of moist bread put in cake-box will keep cake from getting dry. Fruits for Oakes. A very good way to stone raisins is to have a glass of cold water beside one. Dip the fingers into it, and the seed will easily drop off from them. Or, have a dish of flour near at hand and dip the fingers into it often. It will prevent the seeds from sticking to one's fingers. To make raisins stone more easily, take them from the stems, put in a bowl, pour boiling water over, let stand 2 or 3 minutes and drain. The raisins will then seed very readily. Raisins for cake may be boiled half an hour in a little water, dried in the oven. This will prevent their being tough and tearing the cake in cutting. 368 CAKES. Watcniuio)i Rinds make an excellent substitute for citron. Cook rich and thick with plenty of sugar and can. When ready to use, take out a little, dry in oven and add to cake, pudding or pie. Dates are usually less expensive than raisins, but housekeepers seem seldom to appreciate their value as a substitute for the latter. A box of dates, if put in a cool, dry place, will keep well, and assist greatly in varying the list of cakes, puddings, and the like. Even a single pound of the article will give its rich, distinctive flavor to several com- pounds that, were raisins used, would be comparatively commonplace. Almonds' to Blanch. — Turn boiling water over them. Let stand a few minutes, then drain and plunge in cold water. The skins will then come off easily. If not, repeat the operation. Rub the .skins off with a dry cloth. Put on a paper in the open oven to dr}'. If they are to be rubbed to a paste, rub tiiem in a mortar with a little rosewater to prevent oiling, a little loaf sugar, 1 lump to 3 or 4 almonds may be used for the same purpose. Lemons may be kept fresh by putting in a jar of cold water. Change the water frequently. Home-made Flavoring Extracts. The common essence of orange, lemon and vanilla of superior quality can be easily and inexpensively made. It is best to make a year's supply at once. Orange essences should be prepared when the sweet, red-skinned Valencia orange is abundant. Take the outer red orange skin of this fruit and scrape off any of the inner white skin that may adhere. Cut the orange skin into strips. Put it in a quart bottle and cover it with common good alcohol, or what is known to chemists as " 90 per cent, alcohol." Fill up the bottle with peel and alcohol, as convenient, till it is full, and cork it tightly. Put the bottles thus filled on a high shelf in the kitchen, or in some equally warm place, for at least six months — that is, let it alone. At the end of this time strain off a tablespoonful or more, flavor as it is needed. It will be better at the end of a year, and will keep indefinitely. Make lemon extract, in exactly the same way, from the peel of the thin-skinned Messina lemons. The thick-skinned Malaga lemons are of no use for this purpose. Never use the juice of the lemon or orange in these essences. Another way is to grate off the yellow part or " zest," and put this in a glass can or bottle and cover with alcohol. Let stand a couple of weeks and then strain. A fine ex- CAKES. 369 tract is secured in this way. A word as to proportions — for the skin of 10 oranges,. carefully grated, a quart of alcohol will be needed. Be very careful that only the yellow part of the rind is grated off, as the inner skin is worse than useless. If necessary add half ounce of oil of orange or lemon, as the case may be. The best vanilla essence is made of the genuine vanilla bean, a costly article, and therefore the tonka bean is frequently substituted for it. From half to three-quarters of a pound of beans should be cut in fine pieces and put in a quart bottle of alcohol of the 90 per cent, quality for essence. This bottle should be left from seven months to a year before its contents are ready for use. Or half pint of alcohol and 4 vanilla beans broken in bits. Let stand a week or so. Table of Proportions. One teaspoonful soda to 1 cupful molasses; 1 teaspoonful soda to 1 pint sour milk ; 3 teaspoonfuls baking-powder to 1 quart flour ; one-half cupful yeast or one- quarter cake compressed yeast to 1 pint liquid ; 1 teaspoonful extract to 1 loaf plain cake ; 1 tea- spoonful salt to 2 quarts flour ; 1 teaspoonful salt to 1 quart soup ; 1 scant cupful of liquid to 2 full cupfuls of flour for bread ; 1 scant cupful of liquid to 2 full cupfuls of flour for muffins; 1 scant cupful of liquid to 1 full cupful of flour for bat- ters ; 1 quart water to each pound meat and bone for soup stock ; 4 peppercorns, 4 cloves, 1 tea- spoonful of mixed herbs for each quart of water for soup stock. Time Table for Baking. Biscuit, 10 to 20 minutes ; bread, brick loaf, 40 to 60 minutes ; cake, plain, 20 to 40 minutes ; cake, sponge, 45 to 60 minutes ; chickens, 3 to 4 pounds, 1 to 1 ^ hours ; cookies, 10 to 15 minutes; gingerbread, 20 to 30 minutes ; Graham gems, 30 minutes ; pudding, bread, rice and tapioca, 1 hour; pudding, plum, 2 to 3 hours; rolls, 10 to 15 minutes. 24 Measuring- Glass. Graduated Measure. 370 CAKES. Tables of Weights and Measures. Sixty drops of any thin liquid are equal to i teaspoonful, or i drachm. Two teaspoonfuls to i dessertspoon- ful. Four teaspoonfuls of liquid equal I tablespoonful. P'our tablespoonfuls of liquid equal one-half gill. Four tablespoonfuls of liquid equal I wineglassful. One tablespoonful of liquid equals one-half ounce. Four even teaspoonfuls liquid equal I even tablespoonful. A medium-sized teaspoon contains about a drachm. Sixteen tablespoonfuls liquid equal I cupful. One pint of liquid equals i pound. Two gills of liquid equal one-half pint One kitchen cupful equals one-half pint. Three even teaspoonfuls dry material equal i even tablespoonful. Twelve tablespoonfuls dry material equal i cupful. Two cupfuls equal i pint. Four cupfuls equal i quart. Four cupfuls flour equal i quart or i pound. Two cupfuls solid butter equal i pound. Two cupfuls granulated sugar equal I pound. Two and a half cupfuls powdered sugar equal i pound. One pint milk or water equals i pound. One dozen eggs should weigh lyi pounds. One quart of sifted flour equals i pound. Four cupfuls of flour equal i pound. One tablespoonful of flour equals one-half ounce. Three cupfuls of cornmeal equal i pound. One and one-half pints of cornmeal equal one pound. One cupful of butter equals one-fialf pound. One tablespoonful of butter equals i ounce. One pint of butter equals i pound. One pint of chopped suet equals i pound. Ten eggs equal i pound. One pint of granulated sugar equals 1 pound. One pint of brown sugar equals 13 ounces. Two and one-half cupfuls of pow- dered sugar equal i pound. Sixteen drams equal i ounce. Sixteen ounces equal 1 pound. Butter size of an egg, 2 ounces. One kitchen cup, half pint. One pound loaf sugar (broken) to i quart. Twelve small eggs without the shells weigh I pound. Ten medium eggs without the shells weigh I pound. Nine large eggs without the shells weigh I pound. An ordinary egg weighs fiom 1% to 2 ounces. A duck's egg weighs from 2 to 3 ounces. A turkey's e^^ weighs from three to four ounces. A goose egg weighs from 4 to 6 ounces. Two ounces unmelted butter equal in size an ordinary egg. Two tablespoons liquid weigh i ounce. Two heaping tablespoons powdered sugar weigh i ounce. Two heaping tablespoons granulated sugar weigh i ounce. Two rounded tablespoons of flour weigh I ounce. Sugar, flour, butter, lard, drippings, currants, raisins, rice and cornstarch are measured by the rounding spoonful. Salt, pepper and spices by the level spoonful. Skim milk is heavier than whole milk and cream is lighter than either, while pure milk is 3 per cent, heavier than water. Spices. — Two saltspoonfuls make i after-dinner coffeespoon ; 2 roffeespoon- fuls make i teaspoonful ; a dash of pep- per equals quarter saltspoonfiil. CAKES. 371 Frostings. Flour lightly dredged over a loaf of cake before icing it prevents the spreading and running off of the latter. Cake should be nearly, if not quite cold, before attempting to frost it. One teaspoonful of lemon juice will help keep frosting from crumbling. A teaspoonful of cream also has a softening effect. To tint frosting, lemon juice will whiten it, the grated rind of an orange strained through a cloth will give it a yellow tint, and strawberry or cranberry juice will pro- duce a pretty shade of pink. Heavy frosting is secured by letting one coating dry and then applying another. Ornamental Frosting can be done by drawing one of the small glass syringes full of the icing and arrange it in any design you like. Another way is to fill a cone of thick white paper and let the icing run through, but it is not as successful as the other way. First, give the cake a coating of stiff frosting. Smooth the top carefully and set in the oven for a few minutes. For the ornamental figures beat the white of an &^^ to a stiff froth, and stir in powdered sugar until quite stiff, but not so stiff as the first frosting. Cut out designs in paper and outline them on the top of the cake by pricking the frost- ing with a large needle. If the design is elaborate make three cornu- copias of writing paper, cut off the small ends, leaving room to press the frosting through. Graduate the size of the three apertures. Fill the three cornucopias with the frosting, fold the paper over the top and use the thumbs to press the frosting through the lower opening. If it does not keep its shape, the frosting is not thick enough, and more sugar must be added. Use the cornucopia with the largest opening for the largest part of the pattern. Cocliineal Coloring-. — One drachm of cream tartar, 1 drachm saleratus, 1 drachm of alum, 1 drachm cochineal. Mix in two-thirds of a cup of boiling water. Bottle and cork for use. Make the wished- for shade by using more or less of the preparation. A por- tion of the cake batter may be colored to suit and arranged in alter- nate layers. Red sugar may also be used for this purpose. Frosting-. — Beat the white of 1 o.^^ till it is very dry, then add gradually 10 ounces of pulverized white sugar. Dredge flour over the top of the cake and wipe it off, to make the frosting adhere. Put it over with a broad-bladed knife ; it should be put on quite tliick. 372 CAKES. When this coating is dry, dilute the remainder in your dish with a Httle rose water and put another coating over the top, which will have a glossy appearance. If the first coating of frosting is inclined to " run," put a rim of stiff paper around the sides of the loaf to retain it in place until it hardens. A teaspoonful of cornstarch is some- times added, but it makes the frosting liable to crumble. Yellow Frosting-. — For one loaf of cake use the yolks of 2 eggs and without previously beating thicken them with powdered sugar, quite stiff, and apply while cake is hot. The rule for quantity of sugar cannot be determined, as some eggs are larger than others. Flavor with orange. Pink Frosting-. — Make a white frosting and give the desired shade of pink by adding a drop or two of cochineal color. Some cooks use one-half of a teaspoonful of the aniline to be bought at the drug stores. The three shades, white, pink and yellow, are very pretty in a ribbon cake. One other shade may be given by using chocolate frosting also. Cocoauiit Frosting-. — Stir a quantity of cocoanut, fresh grated, or desiccated, into ordinary white frosting. Confectioners' Frosting. — Beat the white of 1 egg an instant, then stir in the sugar till about the consistency of Indian meal pud- ding or mush ; flavor with anything liked. A little strawberry may be added to make it pink, or grate a little chocolate in ; when the cake is cold, or nearly so, spread on the frosting with a broad, thin- bladed knife ; if there is not a sufficient quantity of sugar the frost- ing will run. Boiled Frosting-. — One cupful of white sugar boiled with one- half cup of water until it will wax when dropped into cold water. Pour this over the well-beaten white of 1 egg. Stir briskly until it is cool enough to thicken. After the top of the cake has been covered, stir in a little fine dry sugar before frosting the sides. The cake should be cold. Put in the oven a moment to dry. Soft Icing-. — Ten tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, whites of 2 eggs. Flavor with vanilla or rose. Mix the sugar and egg together in a bowl by merely stirring. Spread this semi-transparent mixture over the cake. Put a rim of paper around the cake to keep the frost- ing in place until dry. Icing is more tender made in this wry than when the whites are beaten first. CAKES. 373 Boiled Icing". — One and one-half cups powdered sugar, one -half cup water, come to a boil, and boil a few minutes until it drops heavy and forms threads ; then pour on the whites of 2 eggs. Add extract of orange, lemon or rose, and beat till almost cold ; spread and put in a jar or box for 2 days, when it will melt in your mouth. Lenioii Icing-. — Beat the whites of 4 eggs; whip 'mlj4 pound of powdered sugar, beat smooth ; add the juice of a lemon and a few drops of lemon extract ; beat 20 minutes ; put on the cake in large spoonfuls, and smooth with a knife dipped in cold water. Lemon Icing, Eggless. — Two tablespoons of cold water, the strained juice of one-half a lemon. Thicken with confectioners' sugar and spread on cake. Almond Icing. — A delicious addition to a loaf of white cake. Beat the whites of 2 eggs to a stiff froth, stir in half a pound of pow- dered sugar and a quarter of a pound of almonds, blanched and pow- dered to a paste. Flavor with orange flower water, rose water or a few drops of almond extract. Coflfee Icing, Eggless. — All that is required for this excellent finish is half a cupful of strong coffee, into which is stirred about as much pulverized sugar as it will take up. Beat well and spread with a knife while the cake is slightly warm. Maple Sugar Icing, Eggless. — Put a cupful of dry maple sugar and -4 tablespoonfuls of sweet, thick cream on the stove, and when the sugar is melted let it boil until it will harden in cold water. Cool it a little, then spread on the cake. Wedding Cake Frosting. — Whites of 3 eggs and 2 pounds of confectioners' sugar, not powdered, for each 10-pound loaf of cake. Put eggs and sugar together into a deep bowl and 1 teaspoonful of rose water. Be sure the sugar is free from lumps, and beat with stout wire beater until you can turn the bowl upside down. Then spread on warm cake, about 1 inch thick, and dry in a cool oven. Crease with broad knife when partly cool, to be able to cut without breaking. Brush cake over with unbeaten whites before laying frosting on, so it will stick. Take a little of the icing and lay it aside for ornamenting afterward. When the cake comes out of the oven, spread smoothly over it with a knife and dry it at once in a cool oven. To ornament the cake with it, make a cone of stiff writing paper and squeeze the icing through it so as to form leaves, beading or letters. It requires 374 CAKES. nicety and care to do it with success. If wedding cake is to be kept a long time, do not frost what is laid away until ready to use. Delmoiiioo Wedding- Cake. — One pound of butter, 2 pounds of brown sugar, three- quarters of a pound of flour, 1 cupful dark mo lasses, 10 eggs, 1 pound of blanched almonds, 3 pounds raisins, 2 pounds currants, 1 pound cit- ron, 1 pound figs, 4 tablespoonfuls of cinna- mon, 2 gills rose water, 1 tablespoonful ground cloves. Stone the rais- ins, wash and dry thor- oughly the currants, shred the citron, cut up the figs in small pieces and put all together in a wooden bowl and chop fine. Chop and add the almonds. Then sprinkle and rub thoroughly with an extra one-half pound of flour that has been browned. The cake is lightly put together in the usual way and the fruit put in last. Line the pans with thick, buttered paper and bake slowly in a moderate oven. Black Fruit Cake. — Three cupfuls of butter, 2 cupfuls of sugar (brown), 8 eggs, 1 ^4 pints of browned flour, 3 cupfuls of currants, 2 cupfuls of seeded raisins, 1 ^^ cupfuls of sliced citron, 1 cupful of blanched chopped almonds, one-half cupful of candied lemon-peel, sliced fine ; one-half cupful of candied orange-peel, sliced fine ; one- half cupful of rose water or black coffee (cold); 2 teaspoonfuls each of nutmeg and mace ; 1 teaspoonful each of cloves and allspice, 1 teaspoonful extract of vanilla. Beat sugar and butter to a light cream, beat eggs to a light froth, add them to sugar and butter, beat them all for 10 minutes; then add the other ingredients, and mix to a smooth paste ; then put it into a cake pan that is lined with a white paper that has been greased with lard; cover the outsides and bottom CAKES. 375 of baking-dish with three thicknesses of wrapping paper ; cover the dish before you put cake in, have oven at a moderate heat, put cake in, bake six hours ; when there is a hght crust on top cover the cake with thick wrapping paper ; be sure to keep the heat up by adding a shovelful of coal from time to time ; watch carefully that it does not bake too fast, take from the oven very gently, let sit in baking-dish until cold, then remove and ice it if wished. Brown the flour in a pan in the oven, stirring very frequently. If one kind of fruit is omitted, double some other kind of the fruit used, or add more flour. Cheap Fruit Cake. — One teacupful butter, 1 teacupful brown sugar, 1 teacupful molasses, 2 eggs, beaten separately ; 1 teaspoonful soda stirred in 1 teacupful sour milk, 1 pound currants, washed; 1 pound raisins, seeded ; 4 teacupfuls sifted flour. Flavor to taste. A good, tested combination is 2 teaspoonfuls of vanilla, and 1 teaspoon- ful of lemon extract. If not strong, use a little more of each. Mix, and bake in a medium oven. Plum Cake. — One cup butter, 2 cups brown sugar, 3 eggs, one- half cup milk, one-half cup molasses, one-half pound raisins (seeded), one- half pound currants, 2 tablespoons quince syrup (currant jelly may be used), 2 tablespoons mixed spice, 2 squares chocolate, melted ; one-half teaspoon soda, one-half teaspoon cream tartar, 4 cups flour; flour the currants and raisins before adding to "^"^^'^ ^^^^ ^^^® ^°^^^- the mixture ; bake in small tins, sifting powdered sugar over the top of each before putting them in the oven. Jam Fruit Cake. — Make batter for an ordinary cup-cake, and add a small cupful of blackberry jam. When baked, cut in squares and serve without frosting. Cream Fruit Cake (Plain). — Two cupfuls brown sugar, 1 cup- ful sour cream (thick), three-quarters cupful currants, 1 teaspoonful soda dissolved in the cream ; 3 cupfuls flour, three-quarters cupful of raisins, 1 egg. Dried Apple Cake. — Two cups dried apples; stew just enough to chop, and chop about the size of raisins ; boil in 2 cups of molasses till preserved through; drain off the molasses; for the cake add 2 376 CAKES. eggs, 1 cup butter, 1 cup sour milk, 2 teaspoons soda, 4 cups flour, and spices of all kinds ; add the apple the last thing. Nut Cake. — One-half cup of butter creamed with 1 cup of sugar, 2 eggs (reserve one of the whites for the frosting), two-thirds of a cup of milk, 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder, 2 cups of flour, 1 cupful hickory-nut meats chopped. Beat the eggs, sift the baking powder with the flour and mix all together. Flour the nuts. Bake in shal- low square tins, so that the loaf will be about 2 inches thick. Cut in squares and frost, put one-half an English walnut on each square. If the cake is wished white, use the whites of 3 eggs instead of the 2 whole eggs. Walnut Cake. — One cup of sugar, one-half cup of milk, 2 cups of flour, 2 eggs, 1 teaspoon of cream of tartar, one-half teaspoon of soda, 1 large cup of raisins, 1 large cup of nuts chopped fine. Flour the raisins and nuts before putting them in cake. Frost with a boiled frosting, or one made of confectioners' sugar. Halves of English walnuts make a great addition placed in the frosting. Fig- Cake, Choice. — One cupful of butter, 2 cupfuls of sugar, 1 cupful of milk, 3 eggs, 3^ cupfuls flour, 2 teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, 1 teaspoonful of soda, 1 pound of figs. Cut the figs in thin strips and sprinkle with flour ; then place a layer of cake batter in the cake-tin, next a layer of figs, and so on, finishing with a layer of cake. This is an excellent cake. Date Cake. — Make same as the fig cake given above, substituting dates for the figs. This is very nice frosted with half dates put on the frosting. Election Cake. — This old-fashioned cake, dear to the hearts of our grandmothers, is a troublesome, but a delicious, cake. Five pounds of sifted flour, rubbed with 2 pounds of butter ; 2 pounds of sugar, 1^ pints of home-made yeast, 2 pounds raisins, 8 tablespoon- fuls of wine, 8 tablespoonfuls of brandy, 4 eggs, 1 quart of sweet milk, 2 pounds of currants, 1 pound of citron, half ounce of grated nutmeg. To the butter and flour add half the sugar; then the yeast and half the milk. Lukewarm in summer; hot in winter. Then the eggs beaten ; then the remainder of the milk and wine. Beat well, and let rise in a warm place all night. In the morning beat some tinie, adding the brandy, sugar, spice and fruit (well floured), and let rise again very light. After which put in cake pans, and let rise 10 CAKES. 377 or 15 minutes. Have the oven about as hot as for bread. This cake will keep any length of time. Potato yeast is good to use. Tem- perance people can use 2 extra eggs and 2 wine glasses of rosewater to take the place of the liquor with as good or better results. Chocolate Loaf Cake. — One cup sugar, 2 eggs, one-third cup but- ter, half cup milk, 1 cup flour, 1^ teaspoons baking powder, half cup dissolved chocolate, half teaspoon salt. Cream the butter and sugar together, add the beaten yolks of eggs, milk, flour (in which the baking powder has been well mixed), the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and last the chocolate. I grate mine and place the cup in a dish of hot water. When cool frost with the following : One cup sugar, half cup milk, small pinch cream tartar; boil about 8 minutes, and stir until stiff enough to spread ; flavor if desired. Chocolate caramel frosting may be used if the cake is wished very dark. Yellow frosting is also nice. Bake in a square tin and cut in squares. It is very pretty mixed with white cake. Cliocolate Marble Cake. — White Part : One-half cup of white sugar, one-fourth cup butter, whites of 2 eggs, one-fourth cup of sweet milk, 1 large cup flour, one-half cup cocoanut, one heaping tea- spoon baking powder, seasoning as preferred. Dark Part: One-half cup brown sugar, one-fourth cup molasses, one-fourth cup butter, yolks of 2 eggs, one-fourth cup of sour milk, 1 scant teaspoon soda, 1 cup flour, one-half cup grated chocolate. Va- nilla. Put a layer of the white batter in the pan, drop the chocolate batter in places, then pour on the rest of the white batter. Hot-water Spoug-e Cake. — One and a half cups of powdered sugar, or 1^ cups of granulated. Four eggs, 2 small teaspoons baking powder, 4 tablespoons boiling water, and a pinch of salt. Cream yolks and sugar thoroughly, then add beaten whites and flour. Stir thoroughly, and then stir in the boiling water. This is a favorite recipe, economical and delicious. Cream Spoag-e Cake, — One cup of sugar, 3 eggs, two-thirds of a cup of sweet cream, 1 teaspoonful baking powder and Ij^ cups of flour. Any flavoring preferred. Spong-e Cake, Small Sheet. — One cup of powdered sugar, 8 eggs, 1 scant cup of sifted flour, a bit of salt, little nutmeg or juice of part of a lemon ; beat the eggs very light; add the sugar and flavoring. Bake immediately. 378 CAKES. Ang-el Food. — The recipe herewith given is warranted to be the best, and challenges competition. Beat very stiff and dry 10 whites of eggs (one-half pint) ; sift together twice, one-half pound of pow- dered sugar, 5 ounces of pastry flour, 1 even teaspoonful of cream tartar; add all this to the eggs, stirring very gently with wooden spatula; sprinkle one-half teaspoonful of vanilla powder to it, and fill in the regular angel food tins. Soak these moulds in cold water always before using; fill while wet (just rinse them out), and when baked turn moulds upside down. Never grease or line the moulds with paper; just have them wet, and the cakes will fall out when cold, as white as snow, all the crust sticking to the mould. Frost very thin, and give icing a very delicate flavor, or just a little lemon juice. Angel Food Frosting. — One and one-half cups of confectionery sugar; add a gill of sweet milk, beat it well ; put it on with a silver knife; when the cake is half cool, then crease for slices. Corn Starch Cake. — Two cups of sugar, 1 cup of butter mixed together; 1 cup of milk, one-half teaspoon of soda, 1 cup of corn- starch, and 2 cups of flour, and 1 teaspoon of cream tartar; whites of 5 eggs, beaten. Be sure to sift the flour, cornstarch, and cream of tartar together. A white frosting, or a chocolate frosting, or a yellow frosting can be used with it. liily Cake. — One cup of sugar, half a cup of butter beaten to a cream ; half a cup of sweet milk, half a cup of cornstarch, a cup and a half of flour, and a teaspoon and a half of baking powder. Last of all, add the whites of 3 eggs, beaten to a froth. Flavor to suit the taste. Yellow frosting, and orange extract for flavoring, make the cake very nice. Delicate Cake. — Six whites of eggs, 2 cupfuls of sugar creamed with one-half cupful of butter ; add three-quarters cupful of sweet milk or water, and 3 cupfuls of flour sifted with 1 teaspoonful of cream tartar, and one-half teaspoonful of soda. Flavor to suit. Add the whites of eggs to the butter and sugar, and then the other ingre- dients. Use any preferred frosting, or none at all. L-ady Cake. — One cup of powdered sugar, and half a cup of butter, beaten to a cream. Add the stiffly beaten whites of 5 eggs, 2 cups of flour, with a teaspoonful of baking powder sifted in it, one- half cupful of water, and a teaspoonful of almond extract. Bake in a shallow tin, and when cool ice the top, and cut in small squares. CAKES. 379 Almond Cake. — Two cups of powdered sugar, one-half cup butter, one cup of milk, 2^^ cups of flour, one teaspoon of baking- powder, the beaten whites of 5 eggs, 1 pound of finely chopped almonds. If the beauty of the cake is not considered, 3 whole eggs may be used. Where whites only are used, a yellow frosting is a good idea. Tutti Frutti Frosting. — Nice for this, or any other white cake, is as follows : Yolks of 3 eggs, beaten thick ; 18 teaspoons of pow- dered sugar, one-half cup citron cut fine, or of chopped raisins instead, or both ; flavor with vanilla ; put the frosting on the cake in the pan while hot, and harden in a cool oven. Pound Cake. — Beat the whites of 12 eggs to a stiff froth. The yolks beat until they look light and white ; then beat in 1 pound of sugar; next, beat in the whites; cream a light pound of butter until it looks frothy ; then sift in, by degrees, 1 pound of flour, and cream them together, and add the other mixture. Put in a little powdered mace, if you like, a wineglass of wine, or the same of brandy. Spiced Raisin Cake. — One scant cup of butter, 1 cup of sweet milk, 1 cup of molasses, 1 cup of chopped raisins, 3 eggs, 4 cups of flour, 2 teaspoons of baking powder, 1 teaspoon of cinnamon, one- half teaspoon of cloves, 1 nutmeg grated. Cofltee Cake. — One cupful of butter and lard (half and half) ; one cupful of brown sugar, 1 cupful of common molasses, 1 cupful of cold coffee, 1 teaspoonful of soda (or 2 rounded teaspoonfuls of baking powder) ; 2 eggs, beaten separately ; 1 even tablespoonful of ginger, cinnamon, and cloves ; or spice to taste; and from 3^ to 4 cupfuls of sifted flour. Bake in a moderate oven. 1 cupful raisins improve it. Orang-e Cake. — Yolks of 5 eggs, whites of 4 ; 2 cupfuls of sugar; one-half cupful of water; 1 orange, grated rind and juice; 2 cupfuls flour, three-quarters cupful butter, 1 heaping teaspoonful baking pow- der. Frost with the following frosting: White of 1 &^^, 1 cupful white sugar, half the juice and grated rind of 1 orange. Lemon Cake. — One cupful butter, 2^/^ cupfuls sugar; 3 eggs, beaten separately ; 4 cupfuls flour, one-half teaspoonful soda dissolved in two thirds cupful of milk; 1 lemon, juice and grated rind. No cream of tartar is used, the lemon juice furnishing the required acid. Mix butter and sugar ; add the beaten yolks, then the milk, then the flour and lemon ; lastly, the beaten whites of the eggs. 'A60 CAKES. Frosting. — White of 1 egg (this can be reserved from the cake), 9 teaspoonfuls white sugar, 1 teaspoonful cornstarch, 1 teaspoonful lemon-juice. Lioaf Cake. — Two cupfuls of light dough, 2 cupfuls of sugar, 1 cupful of butter, 1 cupful of cream, 2 eggs, one-half teaspoonful of soda, 1 cupful of raisins, 1 cupful of currants, 1 teaspoonful each of ground cinnamon and mace, and a grated nutmeg. Work well to- gether, and add sufficient flour to make it stiff. Shape in loaves, put into pans, raise, and bake slowly. 1-2-3-4 Cake. — One cup of butter, 2 cups of sugar, 3 cups of flour, 4 eggs, 1 teaspoon of cream of tartar and half teaspoon of soda, or 1 teaspoon of baking powder, nutmeg and extract of lemon. This makes a sheet or loaf Layer Cake. Marslimallow Cake. — Whites of 18 eggs, 2^ cupfuls powdered sugar, 1^ cupfuls flour, 2 teaspoonfuls cream tartar, 1 teaspoonful vanilla. Beat the eggs very lightly, then cut the sugar in with a broad-bladed knife. Sift the flour three times with the cream of tar- tar, then cut it into the eggs and sugar, beat and add the vanilla. Bake in three cakes in deep, new, unbuttered layer-pans. Put white or brown paper in the bottom of the tins, and use a quick oven. Spread thickly between the layers and on top, a filling made as fol- lows : Ma7'shinalloiv Filling. — Boil 2 cupfuls of sugar with 1 cupful of water until it threads. Just before taking it off the fire jnit in one- half pound of marshmallows, broken in bits to melt more easily. Pour this mixture gradually into the well-beaten whites of 2 eggs, and beat continuously until cold. Devil's Food. — Two cupfuls bro^vn sugar, creamed with half cup- ful butter; 3 eggs, 1 cupful water, 2^^ cupfuls flour before sifting, 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder, 1 teaspoonful each of cloves, allspice, cinnamon; half teaspoon black pepper; half a nutmeg, grated; use a dark chocolate frosting. Boil 2 teacupfuls of raisins soft, seed and chop fine. Put between the layers on the frosting. Cbooolate Cream Cake. — One cup of butter, 2 of sugar, 3 of flour, 1 of milk, 1 teaspoonful of soda, 2 teaspoonfuls of cream tartar, 4 eggs. Dissolve the soda in the milk, adding it the last thing before baking. This will make 2 cakes of 3 layers each. Put together with chocolate cream filling already given, or with the following: CAKES. 381 Chocolate Cream Filling. — Grate one-half pound of chocolate, pour on it one-half pint of boiling milk, stir well, and add 1 egg, beaten with a cup of sugar. Flavor with vanilla. When both cake and fill- ing are cold put the filling between the layers of cake. If it is desired to frost the top of the cake, use the following : Frosting. — White of 1 ^SS» 1 ^^P ^^ powdered sugar, 1 teaspoon of melted chocolate, quarter teaspoon of vanilla. Chocolate Layer Cake. — Two- thirds cup of grated chocolate, half cup of sweet milk, yolk of 1 o.^^ beaten. Cook this enough to mix thor- oughly, and while warm add butter the size of a butternut and cool. Then add half cup sweet milk, 1 cup sugar, 1^ cups flour, Xyi teaspoons of baking powder. Flavor with vanilla and bake in layers. Filling and Icing. — Put a cup of gran- ulated sugar over the fire, with enough cold water to cover ; boil until it strings ; stir in 4 ounces of chocolate, melted as above, and the whites of 2 eggs, beaten light; remove from the fire and beat until ahnost cold. Chocolate Caramel Cake. — One and a half cupfuls of white sugar, creamed with half cupful butter, two-thirds cupful water, yolks of 3 eggs or 2 whole eggs ; 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder, sifted with 3 cupfuls of flour. Bake in layers, and put together with the following Caramel : Caramel. — Half pound of sugar, 2 squares of chocolate (Baker's), 1 teaspoonful butter, half cupful water or milk. Set the dish in boiling milk, and stir until thick enough, spread. Set the cake in the oven to dry for a few minutes. Ice Cream Cake. — Half cupful butter, 1 ^ cupfuls sugar, 2 cup- fuls flour, half cupful milk, whites of 5 eggs, 2 level teaspoonfuls baking powder, half teaspoonful vanilla extract. Beat the butter to a cream, and gradually beat into it the sugar and then the vanilla. Now add the milk and also the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Finally stir in the flour and baking powder mixed together. Pour this batter into shallow cake pans that have been well buttered, 382 CAKES. and bake in a moderate oven for 25 or 30 minutes. When cool, ice. The icing is to be made after the rule given for Ice Cream Filling. Put on the filling thick as possible. It makes a delicious cake. Banana Layer Cake. — Make any preferred layer cake. Put to- gether with either of the banana fillings given before, or simply ice the layers with a soft icing, and cover thickly with sliced bananas. Filling : Slice up some bananas and stir them through a cup of rich cream. It is very delicate and rich. Oraug-e Jelly Cake. — Three eggs, one-half cupful of butter, 2 cupfuls of sugar, 1 cupful of milk, 2^ cupfuls of flour, 2 teaspoonfuls of Royal baking powder ; bake in jelly pans. Jelly for Cake. — Take 2 good oranges, grate a part of the rind of 1, then peel and grate them all, remove the seeds and add 1 cup- ful of sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of water, and scald in a tin set in a kettle of hot water. Take 1 tablespoonful of cornstarch, mix smooth with a {&\N spoonfuls of cold water, and stir into the orange enough to soak the cornstarch. When quite cold beat the whites of 2 eggs and add powdered sugar for frosting. Leave out a little of this for the top of the cake, and stir the rest into the orange, and you will have a jelly that will not run off or soak into the cake. Oraug-e Layer Cake. — Half cupful of butter creamed with 2 cup- fuls sugar, add the juice of 1^ oranges and the yellow rind of 1 orange, grated. Stir in one, at a time, the yolks of 4 eggs. Dis- solve half a teaspoonful of soda in half a cup of water, and add it to the other ingredients. Beat the whites of 4 eggs stiff and stir into the cake with 2 cups of flour, in which a teaspoonful of cream of tartar has been sifted. Bake in layers, and when cool frost each one and place them one over the other. When the third layer is frosted, and before it hardens, lay small quarters of orange around the edge. Frosting. — The white of 1 large &f 38G CAKES. Apple Jelly Cake. — One egg, 1 cup of sugar, 1 cup of sweet milk, butter size of an egg, 2 cups of flour, and 3 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Bake in jelly cake tins. Jelly : Use 2 large or 3 small apples, grated, 1 cup of sugar, 1 egg, the juice and grated rind of a lemon. Boil 5 minutes; place between cakes. This makes a delicious filling for a pie also. Apple Snow Cake. — One egg and 1 yolk of another; 1 cupful sugar, 1 t::iblespoonful butter, 2 teaspoonfuls baking-powder, 2 cupfuls flour. Bake in 3 tins. Filling : One grated sour apple, white of 1 egg, 1 cupful of fine sugar. Beat together, spread between and on top of the cake. Flavor with lemon extract, or a little lemon-juice. A plain tart apple sauce may be made, well sweetened, beaten smooth and spread between the layers. Jelly Cake. — Three eggs, well beaten; half cupful sweet milk, or water; 2 tablespoonfuls butter,! cupful sugar, 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder, sifted with \]i cupfuls flour. Bake in four layers. Put together with any kind of jelly, marmalade, or jam. Walnut Layer Cake. — One cup of sugar, half cup of butter, 2 cups of flour, 3 eggs, yolks of all and whites of one, 1 teaspoon of soda in half cup milk, 2 of cream of tartar, and bake in 3 layers. Filli)ig : Beat the whites of 2 eggs with 1 cup of sugar and add 1 cup of chopped walnuts. Put the cake together with this. Filling. — //. Take 1 cup of sugar, enough water to dissolve it, let it boil till it drips slowly from the spoon, then pour it on the whites of 2 eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Stir till thick. Take half of it and add part of the walnut meats chopped. Spread between the layers. Put the rest of the frosting on top and lay a row of the halves of the walnuts around the edge of the cake. It requires the meats from half a pound of walnuts. Neapolitan Cake {Dark part). — One cup of brown sugar, one- half cup of molasses, one-half cup of butter, one-half cup of strong coffee, 3 eggs, 3 cups of flour, 1 teaspoon of baking powder, 1 cup of raisins, 1 cup of currants, 1 teaspoon each of cinnamon, cloves and mace. Bake in jelly cake pans. {Light Part). — Two cups of sugar, 1 cup of butter, 3 cups of flour, one-half cup of milk, 1 teaspoon of baking powder and the whites of 4 eggs. Put together alternately with dark, spreading icing between. Ice the top. CAKES. 387 Fruit Layer Cake. — One cupful sugar creamed with one-half cupful butter, 2 eggs, one-half cupful sweet milk, 1^ cupfuls flour sifted with 1 teaspoonful baking powder, 1 cupful raisins chopped, one-half cupful Zante currants, 1 teaspoonful each of cinnamon, nut- meg and allspice. Add the fruit last, dredging well with flour. Bake in 3 layers, using frosting to put together when baked ; frost top and sides. Raisin Layer Cake. — Make as above, using raisins only for the fruit. Bake in 3 layers and frost. Layer Spice Cake. — Two cupfuls sugar creamed with 1 cupful butter, ] cupful sweet milk, or milk and water, 4 cupfuls flour sifted with 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder, 4 eggs well beaten. Divide the batter. Bake one-half in 2 layer tins, and to the other half add one- half cupful molasses. 2 teaspoonfuls cinnamon, 1 teaspoonful each of nutmeg and allspice, one-half teaspoonful cloves. Bake in 2 layer cake tins and put together alternately light and dark, with any frost- ing or icing that may be preferred. Maple Caramel Cake. — Two eggs (save out the white of one), 1 cup of granulated sugar, 1 tablespoon of melted butter, 1^ cups of sifted flour, two-thirds of a cup of sweet milk, 2 teaspoons of baking powder (not heaping). Sift baking powder in with flour and bake in 3 layers. Filling : Two cups of pure maple sugar; put on stove with a little water to keep from burning ; let it cook until it hairs ; then set off, and beat the white of the &^^ to a froth and stir in sugar and beat until cool enough to spread without running. It wants to be kept in a cool, dry place. It is very nice to put 1 cup of English walnuts chopped in the filling after the ^^^ is put in. Maple Sugar Cake. — Make a layer cake as above, and put to- gether with the following filling. Filling : Put in a new tin Xyi cups of maple sugar, 1^^ cups of sweet cream, 1 tablespoon of butter ; boil all together 40 minutes, flavor with a teaspoon of vanilla and spread between the cake if made in layers ; beat until cool and creamy, and spread. Begin this before the cake is commenced. Caramel Cake, — Two eggs, 1 cup of sugar, one-half cup of but- ter, one-half cup of milk, 1 teaspoon of cream of tartar, one-half tea- spoon of soda and 2 cups of flour. Cream the butter and sugar, add the eggs (whites and yolks well beaten separately, then together), then the milk, in which the soda is dissolved, and lastly the flour, 388 CAKES. with which the cream of tartar is sifted. Bake in 2 layers. lu/Iing : Boil together 2 coffee cups of sugar, two-thirds of a cup of milk and a piece of butter the size of an egg. After boiling 10 minutes, re- move from the fire, beat until cool and creamy ; flavor and spread be- tween the layers and on top of the cake. Vanilla is the best flavor for this filling". Miiniehalia Cake. — Two cups of brown sugar, 2 cups of flour, one-half cup of water and 5 eggs, 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder, grated peel of 2 oranges ; mix sugar and yolks together, then add the water and whites of eggs well beaten, and the flour, in which has been sifted the baking powder. Add flavoring according to taste. Bake in square or round layers. For the filling, 1 pound of sugar boiled until it flies from the spoon in strings ; upon this pour the whites of 4 eggs which have been beaten to a stiff froth. Beat hard ; then add one-quarter pound of chopped citron, one-quarter pound of chopped figs, one-half pound seeded and cut-fine raisins, 1 pound of blanched almonds chopped fine. Mix all together and add the icing. Gradually spread between the layers and on the top and side of the cake. This cake can be used at any collation, for supper or dessert, and if put in a stone crock it will keep fresh for some time. Ambrosia Cake. — Three-quarters of a cup of butter, 2 cups of sugar, 4 eggs, one-half cup of milk, 3 cups of flour, 2 teaspoons of baking powder ; bake in 4 jelly cake tins ; when cold put between the layers the following : Filling. — One pint of whipped cream, 1 co- coanut grated, 2 eggs, 1 cup of sugar, grated rind of 1 and juice of 2 oranges. Pond Lily Cake. — One cup of butter, 1 cup of sugar, the whites of 3 eggs, beaten stiff; beat all together, add 1 cup of sweet milk, 3 cups of flour, with 1 teaspoon of baking powder sifted with it. Bake in 4 layers, put together with the following : Filling. — The yolks of 4 eggs, beaten with 1 cup of sugar until very thick and light, flavor with rose or orange, use the other white for frosting the top. Flavor the cake while hot with vanilla ; use an atomizer, as baking spoils the strength of the vanilla, if not of the best quality. Rebel Cake. — " Rebel cake " is a great favorite in the South. It was so named in honor of the great Confederate, General Robert E. Lee. Take 9 eggs, the weight of 7 eggs in sugar, the weight of 4 eggs in flour, down weight. Add the sugar to the well-beaten yolks CAKES. 389 of 9 eggs, then add the whites, beaten very light. Stir the flour gently and season with fresh lemon ; bake in jelly cake tins. When cold spread each layer with the following filling : Strain the grated rind and juice of 2 oranges and 1 lemon through a fine sieve into a pound of pulverized sugar. Add to this a grated cocoanut and the white of an egg beaten very light. This recipe will make two cakes of nine layers each. Fancy Cakes. Vanilla Wafers. — One cup of sugar, two-thirds cup of butter, 1 egg, 4 tablespoons of milk, 1 tablespoon of vanilla, 2 full teaspoons of baking powder. Cream the butter, then add the sugar, beating them well together. Add the egg, well beaten, then the milk and vanilla ; sift the baking powder in with part of the flour, using flour enough to roll out very thin. Bake in a quick oven. Sprinkle sugar on top before cutting out. Almond Wafers. — Take three-quarters of a pound of blanched and finely chopped almonds, and mix with them 6 ounces of pow- dered sugar, 3 whole eggs that are beaten up together, and 1}4 ounces of finely sifted flour ; flavor the mixture with essence of va- nilla and then cook as follows : Take some baking tins and brush them over with white wax ; allow them to get cool, then spread the mixture on the tins very thinly, and bake in a very moderate oven until the water dries on top; then take up the tins and cut the paste into strips — rounds or squares, as liked — put in a screen or very moderate oven, and let them remain until quite dry. If kept in a dry place they will keep for some time, and can be used with ices or creams, or compotes of fruit, or for dessert. Walnut Wafers. — One-half pint of brown sugar, one-half pint of walnut meats, 3 even tablespoonfuls of flour, 1 saltspoon of salt, 2 eggs. Beat the eggs ; then add sugar, salt, flour, and walnuts. Drop from spoon on buttered paper, and bake until brown. Seed Wafers. — One-half pound of sugar, one-quarter pound of butter, creamed with the sugar; 4 eggs, beaten very light; enough flour for soft dough ; 1 ounce caraway seeds, mixed with the dry flour. Mix well ; roll into a very thin paste. Cut into round cakes; brush each over with the v;hite of an egg, sift powdered sugar upon it, and bake in a brisk oven about 10 minutes, or until crisp. Do not 890 CAKES. take them from the baking tins until nearly cold, as they are apt to break while hot. Cocoaimt Wafers — One cup of sugar, three-quarters cup of butter, 1 egg, 4 tablespoons of milk, ] Y^ teaspoons of cream of tartar, three-quarters teaspoon of soda, flour enough to roll thin. Stir in one-half cup of cocoanut. Bake in a quick oven. Lemon Wafers. — Dainty lemon wafers to serve with ice are made of 2 eggs, their weight in sugar, and half their weight in flour, and the grated rind of 1 lemon. Beat thoroughly. Then drop on a buttered pan, and bake till a pale yellow brown. Flatten the cake as it spreads on the pan, to give wafers the size of a small teacup top. Egg- Wafers. — To 1 large egg add 1 tablespoonful of su- gar (brown is the best) ; jDut sugar and ^%Z together, and beat thoroughly for 5 minutes; then knead in prepared flour enough to make them of the consistency of doughnuts; roll out thin, cut out with the biscuit cutter (or with something still smaller, if you like), and fry in hot lard the same as doughnuts. They will not soak fat, and are nice for lunch ; 3 large eggs will make enough for one meal for a family of four. Prepared Flour. — To 1 quart of unsifted flour, add 2 teaspoons of cream of tartar, 1 teaspoon of soda, and 1 teaspoon of salt. Sift 2 or 3 times. Shut up in a tin pail what flour you don't use. Keep in a cool place; it will make good biscuit. Chocolate Wafers. — One cup of butter, 1 cup of brown sugar, 1 cup granulated sugar, 1 cup grated chocolate, 1 &^^, 1 teaspoon fill baking powder, one-half cup water, 1 teaspoonful vanilla, flour to make a stiff batter ; roll thin, and cut with square cutter. Bake on greased tins. CAKES. 391 Tea Leinon Wafers — Beat a quarter of a pound of butter to a cream ; add half a pound of powdered sugar. Beat 6 eggs until creamy, and mix with the butter and sugar; then add the juice and rind of 2 lemons, with 1 grated nutmeg, and flour to make a stiff batter. Beat all together until smooth and light. Heat the wafer irons over a clear fire, grease lightly with butter, put in enough of the batter to fill the irons, close, and turn over a clear fire until brown. Take out, dust with powdered sugar, and roll around a smooth stick. Remove carefully, when cold. (Very dainty little cakes.) Cream Fruit Wafers. — One-half of a cupful of butter beaten to a cream; into this stir 1 small cupful of sugar and 1 teaspoonful of coffee extract. Into one-half pint of sour cream put one-half tea- spoonful of soda, and add to the other mixture with half a cupful of chopped raisins and enough flour to roll out thin. These wafers are delicious. La'ly Fing-ers, — Into one-quarter of a pound of pulverized sugar stir the yolks of 3 eggs until very light; beat the whites of 3 eggs to a stiff froth, and stir into the first mixture; add gently half a cup of sifted flour ; bake in lady-finger pans, sprinkled with pulverized sugar. Bake in a slow oven 15 minutes. Lemon Snaps, — Two small lemons, juice of 2 and grated rind of 1, 1 teacup of sugar, half a cup of butter, 1 egg, 3 teaspoonfuls of milk, half a teaspoonful of soda, 1 teaspoonful of cream tartar, mix with enough flour to make rather stiff. If lemons are not convenient, simply flavor strongly with lemon extract. Coffee Snaps. — One-half cup molasses, half cup sugar, half cup lard or butter, a little salt, half teaspoonful soda, dissolved ; one-quar- ter cup of strong coffee. Beat well, add flour enough to roll, and bake in a quick oven. Cream Puflfs. — One cup of boiling water poured over half cup of butter. When you have done this, place it on the stove, bring to a boil, and add 1 cup of sifted flour. Let boil 5 minutes, beating all the time. When cool add 3 eggs, not beaten. Beat for 10 minutes, then add soda the size of a pea. This makes 12 large puffs. Bake 30 minutes. Filling : One cup of milk, 1 egg, half cup of sugar. Beat until thick. Flavor to taste. This recipe will always puff. When the puffs and the cream are both cool, open a little way on the side with a sharp knife and fill with the cream. 392 CAKES. Horns of Plenty. — Two eggs. Their weight in .sugar ; half their weight in flour ; flavor to suit. Beat thoroughly. Bake quickly. When taken from the oven, roll each one into a little cornucopia. Fill when serving with whipped cream. These are very pretty to look at at afternoon teas, and nice to eat with chocolate. A jelly or a chocolate filling may be used in.stead of cream. Sand Tarts. — One cup butter, one-half cup molasses, 2 eggs (re- serving white of 1), 1 teaspoonful cinnamon, 1 cup brown sugar, 3 cups flour, 1 teaspoonful baking powder. Roll out thin, glaze with white of egg, sprinkle with granulated sugar, and when baked dot with bits of currant jelly. Holiday Cakes. — Blanch three-quarters of a pound of shelled almonds, and slice in halves ; chop half a pound of citron ; mix them together and roll in sifted flour ; add to 6 well-beaten eggs and three-quarters of a pound of sugar; mix well, and sift in a pound of flour. Butter long, shallow cake pans, put the batter in them and bake in a quick oven. When done, take out, roll in sugar and finely pounded almonds. Put away in a tight tin box, and these cakes will keep for a year. Jumbles. — Take a half pound of flour, 1 pound of granulated sugar, three-quarters pound of butter, and 3 eggs. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, add the eggs well beat- en, then a teaspoonful ofvanillaandhalfa nut- meg grated, then the flour, with 1 teaspoon- Biscuit and Cake Cutters. ful of soda, dissolved in half a cup of milk. Beat the whole well together. Dust the baking board with granulated sugar instead of flour ; roll out the mixture about an eighth of an inch in thickness, cut with a round cutter ; take the centres out with a smallar cutter ; thus forming rings. Bake in a moderate oven until the edges are a delicate brown. Licmon Jumbles. — Beat half a pound of butter to a cream and add gradually half a pound of powdered sugar ; add 3 well-beaten eggs, the juice of a lemon and 9 tablespoonfuls flour. Beat all to- gether, drop in rings on the bottom of a greased baking-pan and bake in a moderate oven. When done, roll in sugar while hot. CAKES. 393 Orandinotlier's Jumbles. — One cup of butter, 2 cups of sugar, 3 eggs, the grated rind of an orange or lemon, and 2 tablespoonfuls of the juice, half a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in the juice. Flour enough to roll. Cut out centre of each cake. Alinoud Jumbles. — Beat 2 cups sugar and ly^ cups butter to a smooth, light cream. Add 6 eggs, 1 at a time, beating thoroughly. Add half a wine glass of apricot juice, half a cup of cornstarch and 3 of sifted flour. Blanch and chop 1 pound of almonds. Boil dough thin, cut with jumble cutter, .sprinkle almonds over and sift with pow- dered sugar. Press a little to keep the nuts in place Bake in quick oven, with buttered paper on tins. Rosewater can be used in place of the apricot juice. Cocoanut Jumbles. — Stir together 2 cups of sugar, 1 cup of butter, and the yolks of 2 eggs. Add 1 grated cocoanut and 2^^ cups of flour, measured before sifting. Last, stir in lightly the whites of 6 eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Drop in rings 3 inches across on buttered tins, leaving them about 1 inch apart. Bake in a quick oven, first dusting the top with grated cocoanut. Fruit Jumbles. — One cup butter, 2 cups sugar, half cup sour milk, half teaspoonful of saleratus, 3 eggs, half grated nutmeg, 3^ cups flour, 1 cup currants. Bake in broad, shallow pans, and cut in square pieces while warm. Rolled Coffee Cakes. — Two cups of bread dough when ready for the baking-pans, 4 scant tablespoonfuls of butter, 2 of sugar, the white of 1 egg beaten, a saltspoonful of soda, dissolved in a little water, and one-half teaspoonful of ground cinnamon. Mix and roll out one-quarter of an inch thick and spread with a paste made by stirring two-thirds of a cup of sugar into 1 well-beaten egg. Roll up like jelly-cake, cut around into pieces 1 inch thick. Set on end close together in shallow tins. When very light bake in a rather quick oven. They are excellent warm or cold. Peamit Cakes. — One pint of peanut kernels rolled fine, one-half pound sugar, 3 eggs, butter the size of a walnut, 8 tablespoonfuls of flour. Can drop on greased tins or roll out and cut in round shape and bake. These are very good. Leb-Kuehen (Germau). — A favorite confection Avith Germans. Four eggs, 1 pound of sugnr (beat in one direction one-half hour), 1 pound of flour, half a pound of crushed almonds, quarter pound of 3^4 CAKES. sliced citron, 1 lemon, grated rind ; 1 orange, peel ; half ounce of cinnamon, 1 teaspoonful of cloves, 1 teaspoonful of allspice, half tea- spoonful (scant) baking powder. Stir well, roll out about like jum- bles, cut into square cakes and bake. When cold, spread lightly with frosting. Some cooks add molasses or honey to above recipe, and this can be done if desired. Geriiiau Oraiig-e Cake. — Beat well together the yolks of 6 eggs, 2 ounces of butter that has been creamed and a half pound of pow- dered sugar. Beat the whites of the eggs into a stiff froth. Sift to- gether a half pound of flour and a teaspoonful of baking powder. Take the juice, grated rind and soft pulp of 3 oranges, leaving out carefully the seed and tough fibre. Mix as follows : First stir the oranges into the sugar, butter and yolks ; then put in the whites of the eggs and the flour alternately. Pour quickly into little pans, and bake in an oven that is not too hot. The icing may be made without eggs, which is a great convenience for a Christmas cake, when eggs are al^vays dear. Add the grated rind of an orange to a half pound of powdered sugar, a tablespoonful of boiling water, and enough orange juice to moisten it thoroughly. Use at once. It is better to let the cakes get cool before beginning to make this icing. Zinunet Kiiclien. — Shorten simple bread dough by kneading in fresh, sweet butter. When the dough and butter have been so thor- oughly mixed that the former fairly puffs out with lightness, you have foundation for a " kuchen." Spread the dough thinly and evenly in a long, shallow tin ; cover this with an egg beaten briskly until it froths ; over this drop a coating of granulated sugar ; drop little lumps of sugar here and there and sprinkle liberally all over the top with powdered cinnamon. Be careful to leave a little margin of dough all the way round the tin. It is best to line tin with confec- tioners' paper or grease with fresh lard. Let this mixture rise a little while before putting it into the brisk, hot oven, in which it must be baked until the top is brown. The ingredients on the top of the kuchen will all run together and melt into a delicious sort of candied top. Serve kuchen by cutting narrow strips (about half an inch wide) across the kuchen, and eat it like a stick of candy. mm Success in making good fried cakes depends as much on the cooking as on the mixing. In the first place, there should be boiling lard enough to free them from the bottom of the kettle, so that they swim on the top, and the lard should never be so hot as to smoke or so cool as not to be at the boiling point ; if it is, they soak grease, and are spoiled. If it is at the right heat, the doughnut will in about 10 minutes be of a delicate brown outside and nicely cooked inside. Five or six minutes will cook a cruller. Try the fat by dropping a bit of the dough in first ; if it is right, the fat will boil up when it is dropped in. They should be turned over almost con- stantly, which causes them to rise and brown evenly. When they are sufificiently cooked, raise them from the hot fat, and drain them until every drop ceases dripping. Fried cakes shortened with butter are less likely to absorb fat than those shortened with lard. After fat has been used for frying doughnuts it should be set away to cool, when the sediment will sink and the lard may be removed in a clean cake. If very much scorched, clarify by boiling a few slices of raw potatoes in the lard. Fry only a few at a time, so that they can be easily turned. A mixture, two- thirds lard and one-third suet, is a wholesome fat for frying dough- nuts and less likely to soak the cake. Crullers. — Eight tablespoons of white sugar, 4 tablespoons of melted butter, 2 tablespoons of milk, 4 eggs, 1 tea.spoon of soda, 2 teaspoons of cream of tartar, 1 nutmeg, flour to make it stiff enough to roll ; cut in desired shapes and braid in 5 strands ; fry in hot lard. Roll in sugar. Cream Crullers. — One and one-half cups of sugar, 2 cups of cream, 2 eggs, 2 teaspoons of baking powder, mixed in flour enough to roll out soft ; cut in desired shapes, and fry in very hot lard. Doug-hnuts. — Two eggs well beaten, 1 large cup granulated sugar, one-half a nutmeg, pinch of salt, 6 tablespoonfuls melted lard, 1 quart of buttermilk, 1 heaping teaspoon of soda, flour to make a 395 396 DOUGHNUTS AND CRULLERS. soft dough. Roll one-half inch thick, and fry in hot, deep lard. While hot roll them in powdered sugar. They should be put in jars and covered while warm. Doushinits. — IL Beat 2 eggs, 1^ cups of sugar, a pinch of salt, about a teaspoon of grated nutmeg, a tablespoon of melted lard or butter together, then add 2 cups of sour milk or buttermilk and a heaping teaspoon of soda, flour enough to roll. Have it as soft as you can handle easily ; fry in very hot lard. Do not roll too thin, as the beauty of a doughnut is to have it plump. Put them in a stone jar or a covered tin pail and they will keep moist until they are eaten. It is better to use butter for shortening, as it is not so apt to soak fat. Doiighnuts Without Shortening-. — One quart of flour sifted with 1^ teaspoonfuls soda and 3 teaspoonfuls cream of tartar, 1 cupful sugar, one-quarter of a teaspoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful mixed of cinna- mon and nutmeg, if spices are liked. Mix with enough sweet milk to roll out. Cut in round cakes and cut out the centre. Three tea- spoonfuls of baking powder can be used instead of cream of tartar and soda. Fried Pies. — Use this recipe and add chopped apples (sour) to the dough. Serve hot with sauce. Raised Doiig-hniits. — Scald 1 pint of milk, 1 cup of sugar, 1 egg, half cup of butter, half cup of water with half cake of compressed yeast dissolved in it, a little cinnamon and nutmeg. Have the milk lukewarm and mix them all together at night. Make a stiff dough so as to knead. In the morning, if raised, stir down and let it rise again. After this rising roll them out about as thick as other dough- nuts, cut with a round cutter, lay them on a cloth and cover with another and let them rise until light. Then fry and roll in sugar. The success in making these depends on the temperature. It must be uniform ; that is, a warm place. These are better when freshly made. Cream Donghnuts. — Sift 1 quart of flour, into which stir 2 heaping teaspoons of baking-powder, 1 teaspoon of salt, and sift again. Beat 2 eggs very light, with which beat two-thirds cup of sugar and 1 cup of thin sweet cream. Stir in the flour, leaving enough to use in moulding. Handle as little as possible. If cream is not easily ob- tained, use a cup of sweet milk and a tablespoon of hot lard. Sour cream and soda may be used. DOUGHNUTS AND CRULLERS. 397 Raised Doiig-Imiits. — II. Haifa pound of butter, 1 pound of sugar, 1 quart of sweet milk, 1 large cup of yeast, 4 eggs, 2 teaspoons of mixed spice, equal quantities of nutmeg, cinnamon, allspice, cloves and mace, and a teaspoon of salt. Make a sponge of the butter, sugar, milk, yeast, salt and three pints of flour. Let it rise over night. In the morning add the eggs and spice and flour enough to make it as stiff as bread dough. Let it rise again, roll into a thick sheet, cut out and fry in lard boiling hot. To test the fat to see if hot enough, put in Jumble a little piece of the dough. If hot enough, the small Cutter, piece will soon rise to the top. Make the cakes in any shape with a cutter, or cut in small strips and twist. Raised Coffee Doughnuts. — One quart of lukewarm milk, or half water and milk, half yeast cake dissolved in it, 1 large tablespoon of sugar, half teaspoon of salt and flour enough to make as stiff as bread, but not kneaded; stir with a spoon quite stiff; raise over night. In the morning drop from a knife or spoon into boiling fat. Knead- ing makes them too hard. Serve hot with coffee. Use a larger quantity of sugar if more palatable. Molasses Doug-hnuts. — One cup of molasses, 1 cup of sour milk, 1 egg, 1 teaspoon of soda, a very little ginger, a little salt and nut- meg, enough flour to roll soft. Very nice. Graham Doughnuts. — Two cupfuls buttermilk, teaspoon ful soda, 1 cupful sugar, pinch of salt, 3 tablespoonfuls melted butter, 1 egg, Graham flour to roll out; cinnamon to flavor, or nutmeg; water, or sweet milk and two teaspoonfuls baking powder may be substituted for the sour milk and soda. Indian-Meal Doughnuts. — One and a half cupfuls boiling sweet milk poured over 2 cupfuls of Indian meal, when cool add 2 cupfuls wheat flour, 1 }i cupfuls sugar, 3 teaspoonfuls baking powder, half teaspoonful salt; 1 egg is a great addition, but can be omitted; 1 tea- gpoonful cinnamon if liked. If more flour is needed, add Indian meal and flour in equal parts. Roll half inch thick, cut in small squares or diamonds and fry in hot lard. Love Knots. — One egg, 4 tablespoonfuls sweet cream, 2 table- spoonfuls sugar, pinch of salt; flour to knead very hard ; roll out, cut in n^jrrow strips. Tie each one in two or three knots and fry in hot lard; sprinkle with white sugar while hot. Cookies are put together with less care than more elaborate cakes, and the eggs are not beaten separately. Drii)pings, cla- rified, can sometimes be used for shortening mstead of butter. Bake sausage in the oven instead of frying, and the drippings \jJ'll^fj^f will be white and clear. ^^m^ Sugar Cookies. — One cup of sour milk, one-half cup ' ^ of butter, 2 cups of sugar, even teaspoon of soda, pinch of salt, nutmeg, and flour to knead quite stiff Roll out, and sprinkle sugar over the top, and run your roller lightly over before cutting in fancy shapes. Bake in quick oven. Drippings can be used. Peerless Cookies. — Three eggs, 2 cups sugar, and two-thirds cup melted butter, beaten well together; add one-half cup of milk, pinch of salt, 1 teaspoon baking powder, into 1 quart sifted flour. If this is not sufficient to roll stiff, add more flour. Roll granulated sugar on top of cookies before baking. Sprinkle the sugar on the board, and roll the dough over it. Egg-less Cookies. — Half cupful sweet milk, one-third teaspoonful soda dissolved in the milk; three-quarters teaspoonful cream of tartar sifted with part of the flour; 1 cupful sugar, one-third cupful butter; flour to roll thin. Cut with a cake cutter, and bake in a quick oven. Sour milk and soda may be used, or 1 teaspoonful baking powder may be substituted for cream tartar and soda. Drippings may be used instead of butter. Flavor or spice to the taste. Cream Cookies. — Dissolve 1 teaspoonful of soda in a little warm water, and add to 1 cup of sour cream. Cream 1 cup of butter with 2 of sugar, and add 2 eggs, beaten light, without separating, and the sour cream. Mix smooth, with 3^ cups of flour. Have this mix- ture as soft as possible ; roll out, and cut very nicely. Bake in greased pans in a moderately quick oven. Ideal Cookies. — Two cupfuls sugar, half cupful butter, 2 tea- spoonfuls cinnamon, one-half grated nutmeg; cream all together ; add 398 COOKIES, GINGERBREAD AND SNAPS. 399 2 well-beaten eggs ; beat well, and pour in half cupful of milk ; add enough flour to make a dough that can be handled, sifting 2 tea- spoonfuls of baking powder with part of the flour. Flour your hands, and take bits of the dough and shape them into balls between the palms. Throw each ball into a cup of granulated sugar, and shake until the ball is thoroughly coated. Place these balls on a well-greased baking tin, and they will spread out into regulation-sized cookies. Place them on the floor of the oven at first. Bake them a very pale brown. Pack away at once, between napkins, in a jar or cake box. Run a thin, broad knife under them to loosen them from the pan, and they will not break. They ought to come from Cookie the oven spicy and sparkling, and cracked all over, like Cutter. macaroons. Oatmeal Cookies. — To 1 large coffee cup of cold boiled oatmeal, allow 1 cup of sugar, 1 cup of white flour, butter the size of an egg, a pinch of salt, 1 teaspoon of soda, 2 teaspoons of cream of tartar. Roll out thin, and cut out the same as cookies. Bake in hot oven. Graliaiu Cookies. — Two cupfuls sugar, 2 cupfuls sour cream, 1 cupful fine flour, 1 teaspoonful soda, 1 egg, pinch of salt, Graham flour sufficient to roll out soft as possible. Dominoes. — Take any preferred rule of cookies. Cut the dough in oblongs to represent dominoes, frost them with white icing when done, and make the dots and dividing lines of melted chocolate to represent dominoes. Children are delighted with these cakes, and they are especially nice for children's parties. Seed Cookies. — One cup of butter, 2 of white sugar, 3 eggs, 1 tablespoonful caraway seed, and flour enough to make a stiff paste. Sprinkle the board with sugar, roll out the dough very thin, and cut it in rounds. Bake about 15 minutes. They should be crisp, like an old-fashioned ginger-snap, and will improve with keeping. If you wish them soft, as some people do, keep them in a stone jar in a cold place ; but if you wish them crisp, keep them in a tin box in a per- fectly dry, but not a hot place. Lemon Cookies. — One quart of flour, 1 cupful of butter, 1 pint of sugar, 3 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of soda dissolved in the juice of 1 lemon, 2 tablespoonfuls of cold water, grated yellow rind of the lemon. They can be rolled in granulated sugar or frosted. 400 COOKIES, GINGERBREAD AND SNAPS. Water Cookies. — One cupful sugar, one-half cupful butter, 1 cup- ful cold water, 1 heaping teaspoonful baking powder. Spice, or fla- voring extract to taste. Flour to roll out. Coriaudei' Cookies. — One cup of butter, 3 cups of sugar, 1 cup " loppered " milk or cream, 4 eggs, 7 cups flour, or just enough to stiffen into a rollable paste ; 2 tablespoonfuls coriander seed (ground or beaten), 1 tablespoonful of soda, dissolved in boiling water. If you use sweet milk, add 2 teaspoonfuls cream of tartar. You may substitute caraway for the coriander seed. Chocolate Cookies. — Beat to a cream half a cupful of butter. Gradually beat into this 1 cupful of sugar, add a little salt, a little cinnamon and 2 ounces of melted chocolate. Now add 1 well-beaten egg and a half teaspoonful of soda dissolved in 2 tablespoonfuls of milk, add '2^ cups of flour, roll thin and bake in a quick oven. Peanut Cookies. — Cream tablespoon of butter, 2 tablespoons of sugar, 1 egg, one-half cup of flour, one-half teaspoon of baking pow- der, 1 saltspoon of salt, 2 tablespoons of milk ; add 1 pint of peanuts, shelled and chopped fine. Drop by teaspoonful on the buttered sheets. Place one-half a nut on top of each and bake in a slow oven 12 or 15 minutes. Date Cookies. — One large cup of dates, stoned and cut in small pieces, 1 cup of sugar, 1 egg, a little salt, two-thirds of a cup of butter or lard, or half of each, little cinnamon and nutmeg, one-half tea- spoon of vanilla, 2 cups of flour sifted together with 1 teaspoon of soda and 2 of cream of tartar ; then add one-half cup of sweet milk or water ; use more flour if needed, roll quite thin and bake in rather quick oven. Fruit Cookies. — One egg, 1 cup sugar, one-half cup butter, two- thirds of a cup of sweet milk, 1 tablespoon molasses, 1 teaspoon cream of tartar, one-half teaspoon saleratus, 1 teaspoon each of cin- namon, clove and nutmeg, little salt, 1 cup chopped raisins, enough flour to make considerably stiffer than cake ; drop on a buttered tin, spread out a little, bake quickly. Very nice. Frosted Cookies. — One-half cupful butter, 1 cupful sugar, 2 eggs, omitting 1 white, one-half teaspoon soda, 1 cupful sweet milk and water, 1 teaspoonful cream of tartar. Plavor to suit. One teaspoon- ful baking powder can be used instead of cream of tartar and soda. Flour sufficient to roll out. Sift the baking powder with some of the COOKIES, GINGERBREAD AND SNAPS. 401 flour. Bake, and when cool frost with the remaining white of an egrj beaten to a froth and stirred stiff with powdered sugar. Gingerbreads. Yolks of eggs are very nice added to gingerbread, and where they are left over from other cakes and frostmgs, they can be added with great advantage to gingerbread. Fruits of all kinds, raisins, etc., are also great additions. Ginger can be modified by the addition of other spices, or omitted, and cinnamon or other spices used instead. Spong-e Gingerbread. — One cupful sugar, 1 cupful of molasses, 1 cupful butter, or butter and lard, 1 cupful of sour milk, 4 eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately, 1 cupful of raisins, if wished, 4 cupfuls of flour, 1 tablespoonful ginger, 1 teaspoonful of soda dissolved in the milk, one-half teaspoonful salt. In place of sour milk and soda, sweet milk and baking powder or cream of tartar and soda may be used. Spouge Giiig-erbread. — II. One pint of molasses, 1 dessertspoon of soda, 1 teaspoon of ginger, 4 large cooking spoons of shortening melted (I use half lard and half butter). Beat the soda and ginger into the molasses, and then the shortening, and a little salt; then add one-half pint scant of hot water, flour to roll, make about as thick as doughnuts, and roll about as thin. Crease like cookies, cut in squares about 4 or 5 inches, and bake in a hot oven. A tempting cake for the ladies to try. Cream Gingerbread. — Mix a cup of New Orleans molasses, 1 of sour cream, 2 of flour, half a cup of sugar, 2 eggs, half a teaspoonful of soda and 1 of cream of tartar, 2 tablespoonfuls or more of ginger. If you have no sour cream, use half a cup of lard or beef drippings and butter mixed, and half a cupful of sweet milk and baking powder instead of soda. Cream Gingerbread. — II. One cup of sour cream, 1 teaspoon of soda dissolved in the cream, 1 cup of molasses, 1 teaspoon of ginger, 1 teaspoon of salt, 2)^ cups of flour. Maple Molasses Gingerbread. — One cupful of boiling water, a piece of butter the size of an egg, 1 cupful of maple molasses, one- half teaspoonful of soda, one-half teaspoonful of ginger, 2 cupfuls of flour. Common molasses may be substituted for the maple molasses, but the flavor will not be the same, 26 402 COOKIES, GINGERBREAD AND SNAPS. Poverty Giiigerbresul. — Three tablespoonfuls of cold water, 1^^ tablespoonfuls of butter or fried pork fat, 1 teaspoonful of ginger, 1 teaspoon of soda, a little salt; put into a teacup and fill the cup with best molasses (Porto Rico, I use); then add flour to make not very stiff; makes 1 good-sized cake. This rule is 50 years old, and has always given satisfaction. Date Gingerbread. — One cup of sugar, half cup of butter, half cup of milk, 2 eggs, a teaspoon of cream of tartar, half teaspoon of soda, a tablespoon of ginger, a pinch of mustard and 2 scant cups of flour, 1 large cup of chopped dates ; bake about 20 minutes. Fruit Gingerbread. — Two cupfuls unsifted flour, 1 cupful coffee sugar, 1 cupful molasses, half cupful butter, one-quarter cupful sour cream or milk, 3 eggs, half pound chopped raisins, halfpound currants, 1 level teaspoonful soda, 1 tablespoonful ginger, half teaspoonful cloves. Cream the butter and sugar, warm the molasses and add them together with the beaten yolks, then the soda dissolved in the milk, the flour, spice, and lastly the beaten whites. Dredge the fruit with flour and add. Beat all well. Bake in two loaves. This will keep a long time. Old-fashioned Ging-erbread. — Cream a cupful of good butter and add to it gradually 2 cupfuls of granulated sugar. When as light as possible, add a teaspoonful of ginger, a cupful of milk in which three- quarters of a teaspoonful of soda has been dissolved, and then 4 cup- fuls of sifted flour, adding it gradually. Butter a large baking tin thoroughly, spread the batter very thin, and bake brown in a mod- erate oven. Cut these while quite hot into squares, and take them from the pan. Soft Gingerbread. — One cup of molasses, 1 cup of boiling water, 1 tablespoon of butter or lard in the hot water, half teaspoon of soda, half teaspoon of ginger, flour enough to make a batter as thin as griddle cakes. Ginger Layer Cake. — One cupful molasses, 2 egg yolks, three- quarters teaspoonful soda dissolved in 1 cup boiling water. Butter the size of an egg, 1 teaspoonful ginger, 1 teaspoonful cinnamon, half teaspoonful allspice. Bake in layers, and put together with frosting made from the whites of the eggs. Card Gingerbread. — One-half cup of butter, one-half cup of sour milk, 1 cup of brown sugar, 1 egg, one-half teaspoonful of soda, 1 COOKIES, GINGERBREAD AND SNAPS. 403 teaspoonful of ginger, one-fourth teaspoonful of salt. Add one-half tablespoonful of water and 3 scant cups of sifted flour. Beat the butter to a cream, add the sugar, then the salt and ginger, now the egg well beaten. Dissolve the soda in the water and stir into the sour milk and add to the mixture in the bowl. Beat the flour in grad- ually. Take one-half the dough and roll out about half an inch thick. Cut in squares and bake about 8 minutes in a hot oven. Giug-er N^uts. — One quart of New Orleans molasses should be seasoned with a tablespoonful of grated cinnamon, the same of black pepper, a teaspoonful of ground cloves, and the grated rinds of 2 oranges and a lemon, stirred well together, and let stand a day. Then mix with it flour enough for a stiff batter, 4 teaspoonfuls of baking powder, and a large spoonful of lard. Roll into strips as thick as your finger, and cut into nuts half an inch long. Bake brown, and keep apart so that they will not stick. Gring-er Cakes. — Mix half a cupful of butter and lard each. Dis- solve a teaspoonful of soda in a tablespoonful of boiling water, and stir into it a cupful of molasses; add to the butter and lard, a teaspoonful of extract of ginger and a teaspoon- ful of cinnamon ; mix well; pour over a cup of boil- ing coffee, and add flour to make a soft dough. Roll out half an inch thick, cut with a round cutter, and bake in a moderate oven for 15 minutes. Ginger Gems. — Beat half cup of butter to a cream ; heat slightly 1 cup of molasses; add to it half cup of boiling water; take all from the fire, and add half teaspoon of soda; pour this over the butter; add 1 tablespoon of ginger, and sufficient flour to make a batter that will drop from a spoon (about 1^4 cups); add a level teaspoon of cinnamon, same of baking powder, and bake 20 minutes in gem pans in a moderate oven. Nutmeg Grater. 404 COOKIES, GINGERBREAD AND SNAPS. Soft Molasses Cookies. — Two cups of New Orleans molasses, 1 cup of sugar, 1 cup of sour milk, two-thirds cup of butter, 1 egg, 2 teaspoons of soda, tablespoon of ginger, 1> cups of flour; don't get batter too stiff, but soft as you can handle. Half pint cup is used in this recipe. Spiced Molasses Cookies. — One cup molasses, half cup of butter, half cup of sugar, 3 tablespoons of sweet milk, 1 teaspoon of vinegar; mix all together and boil ; let cool, and mix 1 teaspoon of soda in till it foams; 1 teaspoon of ginger, half teaspoon of allspice, half teaspoon of cloves ; one-half nutmeg ; mix into a dough that can be rolled out ; cut with biscuit cutter, and bake on floured tin 10 minutes. Very nice. Viiieg"ar Molasses Cookies (no shortening). — One large cup of molasses, 1 medium cup of sugar, 2 eggs, salt, little vanilla, any kind of spice preferred. I use cinnamon and nutmeg, 3 tablespoons of vinegar, 1 heaping tablespoon of soda, flour enough to roll ; sift soda in flour. They will be brittle and nice. Drop Ging-er Cookies. — One cup molasses, 1 cup sugar, 1 cup butter, 1 cup milk, 2 teaspoons cinnamon, 2 eggs, 2 teaspoons cream of tartar, 1 teaspoon saleratus, a little salt, flour to stiffen ; bake in cups or small tins, or drop from a teaspoon into a buttered baking pan. Leave about 3 inches space between the cakes, so that they have room to spread. Ginger-snaps (that will keep Hard). — One cupful butter, 1 cupful lard, 1 cupful brown sugar, 1 pint molasses, 1 cupful butter- milk, 2 level teaspoonfuls soda, 2 cupful s flour; use more, if neces- sary, to roll out; 1 tablespoonful ginger, 1 tablespoonful cinnamon and allspice mixed. This is a large rule; half of it will be enough for an ordinary family. Our Ginger Snaps. — 1 cupful sugar, 2 cupfuls molasses, half cupful butter, half cupful lard, 1 cupful warm water, 1 teaspoonful soda, 1 teaspoonful each ginger and cinnamon, 1 whole nutmeg, grated ; flour to make stiff enough to roll out. Ginger Snaps. — One-half cup of butter, half cup of lard, 1 cup of sugar, 1 cup of molasses, 1 teaspoon of ginger, 1 teaspoon of salt, 1 of soda, 1 of vinegar, half cup of milk. Put all but soda and milk in tin on stove ; let it come to a boil ; when it has stood a moment off the stove, add soda dissolved in milk, and flour enough to roll thin Puddings are prepared in many ways, be- ing either boiled, steamed or baked. Boiled puddings are lighter when boiled in a cloth, sufficient room being allowed for the contents to swell. A good pudding bag may be made of firm white drilling, tapering from top to bottom and rounded on the corners. Sew up on the machine, and fell the seams, which should be on the outside when used. A tape for tying may be fastened to one seam a little way from the top. The materials must be well worked together. Put in the bag which must have first been dipped in hot water, slightly wrung out and floured bountifully on the inside, being sure that the opening has its share to prevent water entering. This flour forms a sort of paste that excludes the water and prevents the pudding sticking to the bag. Remember that rice, meal, bread crumbs, etc., swell a great deal, and leave plenty of space in tying. Put an inverted saucer in the bottom of the kettle to prevent the pudding burning or adhering to the kettle. Then put in the pudding and cover with boiling water. Cover the kettle and keep the water boiling. If it stops for an instant, the pudding will be heavy. Add more water carefully as it is needed, always from a boiling tea-kettle, being sure that the pudding bag is constantly covered. Move the bag once or twice to keep it from sticking. When done, dip the bag quickly in cold water, untie and turn the pudding out. This should be done just before serving. Same rule applies to dumplings. If a tin pudding mould or an earthen bowl is used instead of a cloth or bag, grease well both mould and cover. Lard is better than butter for this because it is free from salt. If a bowl is used, butter it well, and not quite fill with the pudding mix- ture, leaving room to swell. Wet a cloth in hot water, flour on inner side and tie tightly over the bowl, meeting under the bottom. If a tin pail is used, butter, put in the pudding mixture, place a floured cloth over the top and then press on the pail cover. If mould, pail 405 406 PUDDINGS. or bowl is used, the water should not quite reach the top. When done, plunge for a moment in cold water, turn out and serve immedi- ately. To steam a pudding put it in a tin pan or an earthen dish, tie a cloth over the top, dredged with flour, and set in the steamer. This cloth is not always necessary, and, indeed, where the pudding is very light and rises above the mould, the cloth would be in the way. The steamer lid should conduct the steam safely down the sides of the steamer. Steamed puddings have many advantages over boiled ones, being lighter, more digestible and capable of being re-heated by steaming for the next day. Cover the steamer closely. Never uncover it while cooking, and keep the water under the steamer constantly boil- ing. Do not jar the kettle while the pudding is cooking. Boiled or steamed puddings take about twice as long to cook as baked ones. Puddings boiled in a mould or basin do not need quite as stiff a batter as those boiled in a bag. Never wash a pudding bag with soap. Use simply clean, clear water, drying quickly and keep in a clean place. Any pudding made from suet must be eaten as warm as possible, since if cool the suet hardens and becomes somewhat " tal- lowy." To add the fruit to a baked pudding after it has begun to thicken in the oven will keep it from settling to the bottom of the dish. Many baked pudding recipes are quite as good boiled or steamed. Pudding Sauces. Unfermented fruit juice may be used for flavoring pudding sauces, instead of wine or brandy. The juice from canned or stewed fruit may be used, if none has been specially prepared. In some cases, where wine is given in a recipe, the juice of a lemon may be substi- tuted, or a glass of rose water. Hard Sauce. — I. Two cups of sugar, 1 cup of butter, creamed to- gether, the whites of 2 eggs beaten to a stiff froth ; add to butter and sugar and beat lightly until thoroughly mixed ; divided into 3 parts, flavor 1 part with vanilla, 1 part with grated chocolate or cocoa, about 2 teaspoons, and 1 part with extract of strawberry, so that the 3 parts will be different colors. Butter the mould or bowl. Put in the chocolate, then the vanilla and lastly the strawberry ; set away to cool ; when ready to serve, dip the sides of the mould in hot water^ i PUDDINGS. 407 turn out on a plate, cut through it in slices and lay on each portion of the pudding. Very fine and ornamental. Hard Sauce. — II. Beat 1 cup of powdered white sugar and one- half cup butter together until thoroughly mixed ; the longer it is beaten the whiter it becomes. Sprinkle with nutmeg or grated orange or lemon peel. Instead it may be flavored while beating, and may be colored by the addition of fruit juices. Vanilla may be used for flavoring. Gold Sauce (Hard). — One-half cup of butter creamed with 1 cupful of brown sugar. Smooth in shape and grate nutmeg over the top. The yolk of 1 egg may be beaten up with it, and is a very nice addition. Hard Sauce (Silver). — Half cup of butter, creamed with 1 cup of powdered sugar. Flavor with lemon juice or lemon extract. The stiffly-beaten white of an egg stirred in with this is an improvement. Mound it up nicely in a pretty dish. Keep in a cool place until served. Creamy Sauce. — Beat 4 ounces of butter to a cream, and add gradually 8 ounces of powdered sugar. Beat again until very, very light, and add gradually 1 gill of cream, the grated rind of one lemon and a teaspoonful of vanilla. Turn into a dish and let harden. Beehive Sauce. — One- half cup of butter, 2 cups of fine sugar, juice and peel of 1 lemon, half teaspoon of nutmeg extract, quarter cup of cranberry syrup : make hard sauce in the usual way by cream- ing the butter and sugar; before adding the flavoring take out 3 table- spoons to be colored, add lemon and spice to the larger quantity; color the less by beating in the cranberry syrup until it is a rich pink; shape the white sauce into a conical mound, roll a sheet of note paper into a long, narrow funnel, tie a string around it to keep it in shape, fill with colored sauce ; squeeze it gently through the small end, be- ginning at the base, and winding round the cone to the top, guiding it so the white will show prettily between the pink ridges. The effect is pleasing. Serve very cold. Plain Fruit Pudding- Sauce. — One cupful brown sugar, 1 cupful good molasses, half cupful of butter, 1 teaspoonful of flour; juice and grated rind of 1 lemon, half grated nutmeg, half teaspoonful cinna- mon, 1 teacupful boiling water. Stir all the ingredients together, adding the water last. Put in a saucepan and let boil until clear, stirring constantly. Straining is an improvement. 408 PUDDINGS. Caraiiu'l Sauoe. — Put half cup of sugar in a pan, stir over fire till melted and light brown, add half cup boiling water and simmer 10 minutes. Flavor with lemon, vanilla or rose-water. Plain Cornstarch Sauce. — One cupful of sugar, 1 tablespoonful cornstarch, half cupful butter, 1 teaspoonful vanilla, 1 teaspoonful lemon extract. Stir together. Add boiling water until the required consistency; stirring constantly; half teaspoonful cinnamon, and half teaspoonful grated nutmeg may be used in place of lemon and vanilla. Eg-g- Sauce. — Two tablespoonfuls cornstarch ; 1 large cupful sugar ; 2 eggs, beaten separately; pinch of salt; 1 tablespoonful butter; 1 quart boiling water. Stir together, reserving the whites of the eggs. Cook until thickened. Beat the eggs to a froth, and stir through the sauce. Nice for steamed puddings. Foaming- Sauce. — Two-thirds of a cup of sugar, 1 egg ; beat to- gether very light with half a wineglass of sherry wine. Just before sending to the table add half a cup of boiling milk. For all kinds of puddings, very nice. Boiling water may be used instead of milk. AVine Sauce. — One cupful of butter, 2 of powdered sugar, half a cupful of wine. Add the sugar gradually, and when very light add the wine, which has been made hot, a little at a time. Place the bowl in a basin of hot water and stir for 2 minutes. The sauce should be smooth and foamy. Brandy Sauce. — One quart of boiling milk and water, lj4 table- spoonfuls of cornstarch wet with cold water ; stir it in the milk and water, boil 5 minutes, add 1 cup of granulated sugar, a little salt, tablespoonful of butter, juice of lemon, wineglass of brandy. Lemon Sauce. — One cupful sugar, half cupful butter, 1 egg, well beaten; 1 lemon, juice and grated rind; 1 cupful boiling water. Cream the butter and sugar together, add the other ingredients and beat, then stir in the boiling water. Put in a tin pail and keep hot over steam. Nice for steamed puddings or dumplings. Puddings. Ancestral Eng-lish Plum Pudding. — One pound of raisins, stoned ; 1 pound currants, washed ; 1 pound chopped suet, rubbed with 4 tablespoonfuls of flour ; 1 pound sugar ; 1 pound bread crumbs ; half pound blanched almonds, chopped ; 1 ounce grated nutmeg; 1 tablespoonful salt ; 2 ounces citron, chopped ; 1 ounce lemon peel, PUDDINGS. 409 shredded;! ounce orange peel, shredded. Mix these ingredients. It will be a saving of time to prepare this a day ortwo beforehand. Cover the bowl air-tight and keep in a cool place. If wine is used in the family, pour over all 1 cupful of sherry wine before putting away. A glass of rosewater may be substituted. When ready to cook the pud- ding, add one-half pound of flour, 8 well-beaten eggs, and sufficient thin sweet cream or rich milk to moisten the mixture sufficiently. Boil or steam 6 or 8 hours. Serve hot with vanilla sauce, hard sauce, wine or brandy sauce. English Plum Pudding-. — Two pounds currants, 2 pounds stoned- chopped raisins, 1 pound chopped suet, 1 pound brown sugar, 1 pound sifted flour, half pound chopped citron, half pound fine bread crumbs, 1 large cupful molasses, 1 tablespoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful cinnamon, half teaspoonful cloves, 3 grated nutmegs, 2 tablespoonfuls baking powder, 8 eggs, juice of 3 lemons, 1 cupful of brandy. One wine glass of rosewater may be used in place of the brandy, or it may be entirely omitted. Mix the flour, sugar and spices and molasses, then add the well-beaten eggs, next the suet and juice of lemons, then the fruit ; mix well ; next add the 2 tablespoonfuls of baking powder and the brandy, the mixture to be quite stiff. If there is not sufficient moisture, use a little rich, sweet milk to thin it. Then put in a well- greased mould or a large tin pail, keep covered tightly, steam 10 hours ; as the water evaporates add more ; it is very excellent, having been used in one family more than 50 years. Thanksg-iving' Pudding. — Twelve crackers rolled and soaked over night in 2 quarts of milk. In the morning add 4 well-beaten eggs, 1 cup of molasses, 1 pound boiled and seeded raisins, half pound sliced citron (half pound of currants may be substituted for the citron), 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful cinnamon, 1 teaspoonful grated nutmeg, half teaspoonful cloves, 1 tablespoonful butter. Bake slowly 4 hours in buttered pudding dish. Sauce. — Beat whites of 4 eggs light, but not stiff, add 2 cups of powdered sugar and 2 small teaspoons of vanilla. Turn over this 2 cups of boiling milk. Lemon juice is nice if vanilla is disliked. Beehive Sauce may used, or f4ard Sauce, No. I. Bread and Fruit Pudding. — Butter stale slices of bread ; lay in pudding dish alternately with canned cherries or berries, or stewed apples ; bake half an hour ; serve with sauce, like cottage pudding. 410 PUDDINGS. Let the fruit form the toj) layer. Ceinned fruit of any kind is nice for this. Roly-Poly Piiddii»g-. — One pint of flour, 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder, half teaspoonful salt, 1 tablespoonful butter, three-quarters cup of milk. Sift the dry ingredients together, chop in the butter, stir in the milk till stiff enough to roll out, roll out in a square, spread with butter and jelly or jam of any kind, roll it up and steam half an hour. Serve with lemon or vanilla sauce. Wlxortleberry Putldiug-. — Take a pint of milk, 4 eggs, well beaten, 12 heaping tablespoonfuls of flour. Stir them well together, then add 3 quarts of berries Flour a cloth, tie the pudding in it very close, and boil it 2^ hours. Serve with hard sauce. Strawberry Pudding-. — 1 pint of milk, 3^ cups of flour, 3 eggs, half teaspoonful salt, 1 tablespoonful butter, melted, 2 heaping tea- spoonfuls of baking powder, 1 pint of strawberries. Beat the eggs, whites and yolks together, until light, then add the milk, then the flour, and beat until smooth. Then add the butter, melted, salt and baking powder. Drain the berries, dredge them with flour. Stir them into the pudding and turn into a greased pudding mould. Cover and stand in a pot of boiling water and boil continuously for 3 hours. If the water evaporates in the pot replenish with boiling. Serve with butter, or any preferred sauce. ludiau Pudding-, Baked. — Scald 1 quart of milk ; thicken when partly cool with 1 cup of Indian corn-meal, 2 beaten eggs, 1 table- spoonful wheat flour, 1 cup of molasses or 1 cup of sugar (molasses is best). Salt and ginger to taste. Turn over it in the pudding dish 1 cup of cold milk. Do not stir it afterward. Bake slowly 2 or 3 hours. Plain Batter Pudding. — One cup of sour milk or cream, half cup of molasses, 2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter, 2^/^ cupfuls flour, half teaspoonful salt, 2 even teaspoonfuls of soda dissolved in hot water. Mix molasses and butter together, and beat until very light. Stir in the cream or milk, and salt; make a hole in the flour, pour in the mixture. Stir down the flour gradually until it is a smooth bat- ter. Beat in the soda water thoroughly, and boil at once in a buttered mould, leaving room to swell. It should be done in 1 Yi hours. Eat hot with a good sauce. Raisins or currants may be added. Cherries or gooseberries dried in sugar may be used instead of raisins. PUDDINGS. 411 Blueberry Batter Pudding-. — Two cupfuls of milk, half cupful of molasses, 2 eggs, 6 cupfuls of flour, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1 quart of blueberries, 1 heaping teaspoonful of soda stirred in the molasses. Wash and drain the blueberries and roll them in part of the flour. Stir together thoroughly and steam 3 hours. Serve with a hot lemon or vanilla sauce, or a butter sauce. Graham Batter Pudding-. — One cupful of sweet milk, 1 cupful of sour milk, 1 cupful of molasses with 1 teaspoonful of soda stirred in it, 1 teaspoonful of cinnamon, 1 teaspoonful of salt. Thicken with Graham flour and add 2 cupfuls of well-washed English currants. Steam 3 hours and serve with hot sour sauce. Cottage Pudding, Balced. — One egg, 1 cupful of sugar, 1 cupful of milk, 1 pint of flour, 1 tablespoonful of butter, a pinch of salt, 2 heaping teaspoonfuls of baking powder, half cup of dried currants or chopped raisins ; stir all together, and bake in an oblong bread pan. Cut in square pieces, and serve with a hot milk sauce, or any other preferred one. Half teaspoonful of soda, and 1 teaspoonful of cream of tartar, may be used in place of baking powder. Cottage Pudding, Steamed. — Use the above rule. Pour into a quart basin and steam one hour. Serve with a hot sauce. One cup sour milk, and 1 teaspoonful of soda, may be used in place of sweet milk and baking powder. Bread Pudding. — One pint of milk, 1 cup of stale bread crumbs, 2 tablespoons of sugar, 1 teaspoon of flavoring, 1 egg. Warm, the milk. Butter the dish and put in the crumbs. When the milk has cooled a little, add the sugar, flavoring, and well-beaten egg. Pour it over the crumbs. Let it soak half an hour. Bake in a hot oven 30 minutes, or until golden brown. Fruit Bread Pudding. — Add to the above quantities half cup of raisins (stoned), half cup of currants, and a small piece of citron, cut in narrow strips. Butter the dish, make a pattern on the bottom with the fruit, then carefully cover it with half the crumbs. Pour over a little of the custard, then the rest of the crumbs, and all the custard. When baked, slip a knife around the edge and turn it out. Meringue Bread Pudding. — Beat the yolks of 4 eggs light ; add gradually a cup of granulated sugar, beating all the while, and the grated rind of a lemon. Mix a pint of bread crumbs with a quart of milk ; pour this on the eggs and sugar. Mix well, and bnke in a 412 PUDDINGS. moderate oven until stiff. When done, make a meringue of the whites of 2 eggs and 4 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. Heap on the pudding, and brown in a quick oven. When using cake crumbs, use tlie yolks of 2 eggs, and one-half cup of granulated sugar. Queen's Pudding-. — One pint fine bread crumbs, 1 quart of milk, 1 cupful sugar, 4 egg yolks, well beaten; grated rind of 1 lemon, butter size of an egg. Do not let it bake until watery. Whip the whites of the eggs, with 1 cup sugar, to a stiff froth; add to this the juice of a lemon. Spread over the pudding a layer of jelly or sweet- meats, spread the whites of the eggs over this, put in the oven and brown. Serve cold. Sweet cream, flavored with lemon, is nice to serve with it, but it is very nice without sauce. Aunt Mary's Pudding-. — Half fill a pudding dish with slices of baker's bread, well-buttered. Pour over the whole a custard made in the proportion of 1 egg to 1 pint of milk. Sweeten and flavor it to taste. Let stand a few minutes before baking, with a weight on the bread to keep it under the milk. Bake. This may be varied by spreading each slice of bread with jam or jelly liberally, or even by scattering raisins between them before pouring the custard over. Cake that is dry may be used, or both cake and bread. Steam or boil. Quick Cracker Pudding. — Break fine half a dozen common crackers, and pour enough boiling water over them to cover, 1 quart of milk, 3 eggs, three-quarters cup of sugar, a pinch of salt, and a small piece ofbutter. Flavor with vanilla. Boil 5 minutes in a farina kettle, instead of baking. One egg may be omitted if they are scarce, and two more crackers added. Orandniother's Rice Pudding. — One cup of rice, 2 cupfuls of milk, 2 cupfuls of water, 1 cupful molasses, 1 even teaspoonful salt, one-half nutmeg grated, 1 beaten egg. In mixing use one-half of the milk with molasses, etc., then put in oven to bake. After it has been in the oven one-half to three-quarters of an hour, stir thoroughly, then add the rest of the milk, only stirring slightly at the top so as to form a whey like Indian pudding. Bake about 2 hours in a mod- erate oven. Best to mix in the morning and let stand on the back of the stove until ready to bake to swell the rice ; bake in an earthen pudding dish. Danish Tapioca Pudding. — Put into l}4 pints of cold water half a teacupful of pearl tapioca and let it soak for half an hour, after PUDDINGS. 413 which boil it until clear and soft, which will take about an hour, stir- ring frequently while boiling ; add a quarter of a teacupful of sugar, half a tumbler of currant jelly and a little salt, steadily stirring until all the jelly is dissolved. Put into a mould and serve cold with cream and sugar. Chocolate Corustarcli Pudding'. — One quart of milk, 4 heaping tablespoons of cornstarch, a little salt, bake in double boiler till very thick; cool so as to cut nice. Sauce. — Dissolve 3 tablespoonfuls of grated chocolate in Ij^ cups of boiling milk; beat 1 egg, one-half cup of sugar, stir on the stove until it thickens about like cream; use vanilla flavoring. Let the pudding cool in small moulds, teacups, turn out in saucers and pour the sauce around them. Lieiuoii Corustarcli Pudding. — One tablespoon of cornstarch, 1 teacup of boiling water, 1 egg, sugar to taste, 1 teaspoon of butter, juice and grated rind of a small lemon; mix the cornstarch with a little cold water, add the boiling water and let it boil 10 minutes; put in the sugar and pour the mixture on the yolk of the egg well beaten ; add the lemon juice and grated rind. Stir again while on the fire, not allowing it to burn. As soon as it becomes thick, re- move it and pour into forms or moulds. Serve with sugar and cream. Boiled Lemon Pudding-. — Two cupfuls dried bread crumbs, 1 cupful powdered beef suet, 4 tablespoonfuls flour, 4 eggs, well beaten, 1 cupful sugar, juice and grated rind of 1 lemon, 1 large cupful milk. Soak the bread crumbs in the milk, add the suet, beat eggs and sugar together, and these well into the soaked bread. To these put the lemon, lastly the flour, beaten in with as few strokes as will suffice to mix up all into a thick batter. Boil 3 hours in a buttered mould. Eat hot with hot sauce, any preferred kind. Brown Betty. — I. Butter a dish and put in alternate layers of bread crumbs and sliced apples. Put butter, sugar and cinnamon on each layer of apples. Cover closely, steam three-quarters of an hour, uncover and brown quickly. Eat with hot sauce or whipped cream. Brown Betty. — II. Take 5 large and tart apples; pare and slice them. Put a layer of apples in a deep pudding dish, then a layer of fine bread crumbs and so on until the apples are used. Put one-half cup of brown sugar and small bits of butter over the top. Grate a little nutmeg over them, turn on a cup of sweet milk. Bake 1 hour until nicely browned. 414 PUDDINGS. Chocolate Pudding-. — Add 2 tablespoons of boiling water to 2 ounces of chocolate. Let it melt over the fire ; then add a quart of creamy milk. Half cream is none too rich. Sweeten to taste ; add a little salt and half a teaspoonful of vanilla. Last stir in the well- beaten yolks of 8 eggs. Bake until set ; then cover with a meringue made from the whites of the eggs beaten very light, sweetened with powdered sugar and delicately flavored with vanilla. Let the me- ringue brown in a very quick oven. To be eaten cold. Cabinet Pudding-. — Beat 4 eggs and mix with 3 teacups of milk and one-half a cup of sugar; grease a pudding pan; sprinkle the bottom with stoned raisins and cover with a layer of stale sponge cake; pour the custard over this and steam 1 hour; turn out and serve hot with cream sauce. Sweet Potato Pudding. — One pound of sweet potatoes boiled and mashed, one-half cupful of molasses or sugar, 2 well-beaten eggs, 1 large tablespoonful of butter, 1 lemon, juice and grated rind, 1 pint sweet milk. Cream the butter and sugar ; mix with the other ingre- dients, adding the milk last. Beat until light. Bake one-half hour. It can be baked in a pie crust if liked. Serve hot with lemon sauce, or cold without sauce. Five Minute Pudding. — Two eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 1 teaspoonful baking powder. Break eggs on sugar and beat to a cream ; sift in the flour and baking powder, which should be previously mixed together ; pour into a greased tin and bake 5 minutes ; roll up with a layer of any kind of jam. Green Corn Pudding. — One pint finely cut green corn, or 1 can of corn, 1 pint of milk, 2 eggs well beaten, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 small half-cup sugar, 1 teaspoonful salt. Melt the butter ; mix the ingredients. Bake one-half hour in a moderate oven. If the kernels of green corn are split before cutting from the ear, it will be fine enough. No sauce. Rhubarb Pudding. — Chop rhubarb very fine ; put in a pudding dish, sprinkle thoroughly with sugar. Make a batter of 1 cup of sour milk, 1 egg, 1 tablespoonful of butter, melted, and half tea- spoonful of soda dissolved in the milk ; add flour to make the thick- ness of cake batter, and pour over the rhubarb. Bake, and turn out a plate so that the rhubarb will be on top. Serve with cream and sugar. The batter may be made of sweet milk and baking powder. i BLANC MANGE In making custards or custard pud- dings, the eggs and the sugar should be thoroughly beaten together before any milk or seasoning is added. A custard should never quite reach the boiling point, as it is liable to curdle. Some cooks add a little cornstarch to the cus- tard to prevent curdling or wheying. It also saves in eggs, but others do not like the taste. A double boiler is very much better to use for custards. A boiler custard need not be cooked until very thick, as it thickens while cooling. It is well to allow boiled custard to cool before flavoring. Less extract will be needed, and the flavor will be more delicate. When beaten eggs are to be mixed with hot milk, as in making gravies or custards, dip the hot milk into the beaten eggs a spoonful at a time, stirring well each time, until the eggs are well thinned, then add both together: this will prevent the eggs from curdling. For all manner of home-made flavoring, see the hints at beginning of Cakes. There are so many dainty flavorinr^s that the coarser spices are left for the heavier richer puddings. The juices of various fruits, coffee, tea, and caramel, may be added to the list of flavors. Coffee Flavoring-. — To flavor 1 quart of custard, take 2 heaping tablespoonfuls of Mocha coffee, ground quite fine and measured after grinding. If possible, the coffee should have been browned and ground the day it is used. Pour the quart of milk boiling hot over the coffee, beat the whole thoroughly for two or three minutes over the fire. Remove from stove, cover and let it stand where it will cool; then strain. This gives a very delicate and delicious flavor. If it is to be used for ice-cream, a mixture of half cream and half milk can be poured over the coffee. Caramel Flavoring-. — A caramel flavor is very easily made, and is excellent for custards, ice-creams and pudding sauces. Take 2 heaping tablespoonfuls of granulated sugar and 1 of water. Stir them over the fire in a saucepan until they begin to turn brown, and 415 416 CUSTARDS AND BLANC MANGE. when the mixture is thoroughly melted, and has become a rich golden brown, which will be in 2 or 3 minutes, add the milk of the custard or ice-cream, which it is desired to flavor, and stir the whole over the fire till the caramel has melted evenly into the milk. In the case of a sauce, add a syrup made with a cup of sugar and a cup of water, and well flavored with a little cinnamon and a lemon peel, and stir until the whole is well mixed. Boiled Custard. — One quart of milk, 4 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls sugar. Pinch of salt and flavor to suit. Scald the milk, put in the eggs and sugar ; do not boil, but stir until it thickens ; when cool enough pour into glasses. If wished richer, 5 eggs may be used to 1 quart of milk. Baked Custard. — One quart of milk, 4 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar. Pinch of salt and flavoring to suit. Beat the eggs and sugar together, add the milk. Pour in a pudding dish. Do not bake too long or the custard will whey. Test it by sinking a spoon in it ; as soon as it comes out free from any of the custard it is done. Another egg added will make it richer. It can also be baked in a pudding dish lined with a rich paste, if desired. French Custard. — Boil 1 quart of milk. Beat half cupful sugar and the yolks of 6 eggs together and stir in the milk. Stir on the fire until thick (a double boiler is best, but a pail in a kettle of boiling water can be used). Flavor with vanilla, coffee or almond. Wh.en cold pour in a glass bowl. Beat the whites of the eggs stiff, heap on a large dish and set in the stove to brown, then slip on the custard. Set on ice and serve with sponge cake. Freuoh Tapioca Custard. — Five dessertspoonfuls of tapioca, 1 quart of milk, 3 eggs, 1 teaspoon of vanilla, 1 heaping cup of sugar, a little salt. Soak the tapioca in a pint of cold water 5 hours. Let the milk come to a boil. Add the tapioca. Stir until boiling hot, then add gradually the yolks of the eggs and sugar. Boil again. Let it cook until thick, but not too long. Pour into a dish and stir gently the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Cream Custard. — To 1 quart of cream add 6 eggs, slighth' beaten. Strain the cream and eggs into a double boiler, add 6 tablespoonfuls of sugar and boil 10 minutes. When nearly cold add flavoring. Caramel Custard. — Brown half a cup of granulated sugar (be careful it does not burn), add 2 tablespoons of water, warm 1 quart CUSTARDS AND BLANC MANGE. 417 of milk, put browned sugar into it, add half a teaspoon of salt and 1 teaspoon of vanilla extract, beat 6 eggs well and add last. Strain into greased bowls; set bowls in baking pan with water in it and bake about 20 minutes or until you can put a knife in it and draw it out without any of the custard adhering to it. Set in a cold place. Orang-e Custard. — Four well-beaten eggs, 2 oranges, juice of, and grated rind of 1, 1^ pints of rich milk, 1 cup of sugar. Beat all thoroughly together, adding the milk last. Stir gently over the fire until it thickens. Serve cold in custard cups. Bauaua Custard. — Two tablespoonfuls cornstarch blended in a little cold water, 1 cupful of white sugar, one-third cupful butter. Stir together and pour on gradually 1 quart of boiling water, stirring constantly. Add the yolks of 3 eggs beaten light, and keep over the fire until thick ; when cold add 4 or 5 bananas, sliced fine, put in cups ; beat the whites of the 3 eggs with 3 tablespoons of sugar; add to each cup, and brown. Flavor with either orange or lemon. This mixture can be made the same as lemon pie and meringue on the top, Blanc Mange. The rules for cooking custards are applicable to Blanc Mange. Blanc Maug-e. — I. Dissolve 1 ounce of Cox's gelatine in enough warm water to cover it. Stir it into 1 quart of rich milk, or cream and milk mixed. Sweeten with half cupful of sugar. Stir constantly over the fire until it comes to the boiling point. Flavor with lemon, vanilla or almond. Stir until almost cold. Pour in a mould and put in a cool place or on the ice ; it is pretty cooled in cups. Dip the moulds in hot water before pouring in the blanc mange. Very nice served with sweetened cream, whipped cream or soft boiled custard. Blanc Mange. — IL Make as above and when nearly cold beat in the whipped whites of 3 eggs, and set away to cool. Serve with a custard made of the yolks of the 3 eggs and 1 pint of milk, sweeten and flavor with the same flavoring used in the blanc mange. Cornstarch Blanc Mange. — One quart of sweet milk, heat part of it on the stove, and with the cold blend 4 tablespoonfuls of corn- starch and half a cupful of sugar. Stir into the boiling milk smoothly, keeping over the fire until it thickens. Flavor to suit. Take from the stove and stir in the stififiy beaten whites of 3 egg^. Serve with a custard made of the 3 egg yolks and 1 pint of milk. If eggs are 27 418 CUSTARDS AND 15LANC MANGE. scarce, use one more tablespoonful of cornstarch and stir into the blanc mange 1 whole egg stiffly beaten. Serve with sweetened cream. Chocolate Blanc Mang-e. — Cover an ounce of gelatine with water. Boil 1 quart of milk, 4 ounces of chocolate, 1 cupful of sugar, 5 min- utes. Add the gelatine and boil 5 minutes longer, stirring constantly. Flavor with vanilla, and pour into moulds to cool. This dessert may be served with sweetened cream or a rich custard sauce. Chocolate Blanc Mange. — Four tablespoonfuls cornstarch, 1 quart milk, 2 tablespoonfuls chocolate, 1 teaspoonful vanilla; boil the milk, wet with cold milk the cornstarch, etc., and stir into the boiling milk. Cook 5 minutes and flavor with the vanilla. Serve with sweetened cream. Banana Blanc Mange. — Make a white custard as follows : Two tablespoonfuls cornstarch Avetted with enough cold water to dissolve it ; 1 cup granulated sugar, one-third cup butter ; stir together in a pudding mould or earthen dish and pour on enough boiling water to make thick custard ; beat the Avhites of 3 eggs to snow, stir into the custard and set it in the oven to bake for 15 minutes or for the same length of time in a pot of boiling water; set aside until perfectly cold ; then remove the slight crust that will have formed on the top ; have ready dish in which you are to serve your custard and some fresh, ripe bananas minced finely; mix with the custard and pour into the dish and add a meringue made of the beaten whites of 3 eggs and one-half teacupful pulverized pink sugar. Peaches may be used in- stead of bananas. Rhubarb Blanc Mang-e. — Two pounds rhubarb, cut up, 3 pints water; cook 15 minutes; strain and add 1 cup of sugar or more if desired. Add a little over one-half cup of sago and cook 20 min- utes. Put into moulds and set on ice. Almontl Blanc Mange. — Blanch one-half pound of almonds and rub to a paste with 2 tablespoonfuls of rose water and white sugar, about 1 tablespoonful to 4 or 5 almonds. Mix this paste with 1 pint of milk ; add 1 ounce of gelatine soaked in enough warm milk to cover it. Stir over the fire until thoroughly dissolved, then add an- other pint of milk ; let it boil up, strain, stir until partly cool, then prur in cups and put in a cold place to form. Serve with whipped crram or sweetened cream. ARIOTTES A JELLY or a Bavarian cream or any dish stiffened by gelatine, must not be moved while it is cooling. Mov- ing does no harm when it is in a liquid state, but if it is moved when it is half congealed a crack will result when it is finally turned out of the dish. The same result will follow if it is jarred when removing from the mould, and jarring and shaking is often resorted to in order to hasten its removal. The glutinous nature of gelatine causes it to stick to the mould, and it requires a little heat to melt it slightly before it will come out of the mould in the clear-cut form which it should have. The steam of the tea-kettle, so often resorted to, gives too much heat, and causes the form to be blurred in outline when it is turned out. The best method is to dip the mould into water as hot as the hand will bear comfortably for about half a minute, if it is a tin mould ; if earthen, for 2 or 3 minutes. While it is immersed in the water press the jelly around the edge of the mould to loosen it at the sides. Invert over it the platter or dish on which it is to be turned out and turn the two over together. If it fails to come out, wrap a hot cloth around it for a moment. It sometimes requires a little time to accomplish this perfectly, but the clear-cut outlines of the jelly or cream will repay the trouble. Whipped Cream. — This is very often served in connection with something else, but makes a delicious dessert by itself, or with fancy cakes. The first requisite is to have the cream icy-cold, and an hour or so before using put the large earthen bowl in which it is to be whipped, and the egg-beater (Dover egg-beater is good), where they will get perfectly cold. The bowl should have a round bottom. Cream will whip to 3 times its original bulk, if it is the right quality with which to start. Very thin cream will not whip at all. A very thick cream will not increase as much in bulk, besides there is danger of butter coming. If it is ver}^ thick, dilute it with nearly the same amount of fresh sweet milk. Medium cream is the best. It is well 419 420 CREAMS AND CHARLOTTES. to set the bowl in a pan of cold water while beating. Whip it to a stiff froth. Do not skim off the froth as fast as it forms, as it will be liable to fall, but whip until all is stiff. About 5 minutes is usually sufficient. Beat in sugar in the proportion of an even cupful of pow- dered sugar to a pint of the unwhipped cream. The juice of half a lemon is a delicious flavoring. In this form it is also delicious for Charlotte-russe. If wished firmer, the beaten whites of 2 eggs can be whipped in. In this way it is not apt to fall. It should not be pre- pared until about an hour before dinner. Set on ice. Serve in fancy glasses and pass around assorted cakes. Leiiiou Cream. — Dissolve 2 tablespoons cornstarch in a little water; add the juice and grated rind of a lemon, and 1 cup of sugar; on this pour 2^^ cups of hot water; add the beaten yolks of 2 eggs and 1 whole egg; cook in double boiler until it thickens like custard, stirring constantly; when cool frost with 2 whites and brown in oven. To be eaten with spongecake. Lemou Sponge. — Dissolve 1 ounce of gelatine in a pint of warm water, strain and add the juice of 3 lemons, and I orange; one cup of sugar and the beaten yolks of 4 eggs. Stir over a slow fire until it just boils and turn into a mould. Can be made by using both yolks and whites of 2 eggs, but is paler in color, Orang-e Cream. — One orange, juice and grated rind; 1 pint of thin sweet cream; 1 cupful of white sugar; 4 yolks of eggs. Stir; heat the cream to boiling and pour in ; stir until perfectly cold ; whip the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth and spread over the top. Beat into this 1 tablespoonful of sugar. It is pretty served in small glasses with the frosting over each one. Cocoanut Cream. — Whip 1 pint of cream to a stiff froth. Have ready three-quarters of a box of gelatine which has been soaked in 1 cup of milk for half an hour, and the milk heated until the gelatine is dissolved. Strain, and when cool add it to the cream with 1 cup of sugar and 2 cups of cocoanut, Either the desiccated cocoanut or the fresh nut grated can be used. Put the cream into a mould and set it on ice or in a very cold place. Coffee Cream. — Soak half a box of gelatine for 2 hours in a cup- ful of cold water. Put half a cupful of the best coffee, finely ground, in a pint of boiling milk, and let it stand 5 minutes. Then strain the milk through a thick cloth upon a cupful of sugar, and add to it CREAMS AND CHARLOTTES. 421 the well-beaten yolks of 4 eggs. Stir the whole over the fire until it is creamy, but not thick; remove from the heat and add the gelatine; stir the latter well to be sure that all is dissolved, and pour the cream through a soup strainer if it seems at all lumpy. Set away in a cool place, and when it is cold and begins to stiffen, stir briskly into it a pint of whipped cream and turn into a wet mould. This dessert re- quires no sauce, and is delicious to those wlio like coffee ; moreover it is quite inexpensive, a tea-cupful of cream being sufficient to make a pint of whip. Chocolate Cream. — I. Dissolve a quarter of an ounce of gelatine in half a pint of hot water, add 1 cupful of white sugar, strain through a sieve. Whip 1 pint of sweet cream. Set on ice while you melt 2 ounces of chocolate. Add chocolate to the gelatine, when it begins to stiften a little add the whipped cream. Pour all into a mould, and set on ice until firm. Serve with or without a rich custard. Chocolate Cream. — II. Take a pint of milk and 3 ounces of chocolate. Boil this with 5 tablespoonfuls of sugar until thoroughly mixed, then remove from the fire and add 4 eggs beaten light. Pour into a cold bowl to cool, and when cold, add a pint of cream beaten stiff, and a teaspoonful of vanilla. Blackberry Cream. — To 1 pint of blackberries add 1 pint of water. Boil until tender, and then add 1 cup of sugar, 4 tablespoon- fuls of cornstarch, a pinch of salt. Stir until it boils. Flavor to taste. To be eaten with cream and sugar Raspberries can be made in the same manner. Strawberry Chocolate Cream. — Soak one-third of a box of Cox's gelatine in one-third cup of cold water, pour on a third of a cup of boiling water, add 1 cup of sugar and 1 pint of perfectly ripe straw- berries. Set in pan of ice-water to cool ; when cool and before it hardens add the beaten whites of 3 eggs. Line a pretty dish with lady fingers, and when gelatine is hard turn into dish and serve with whipped cream. Vanilla Snow Egrg-s. — Beat stiff the whites of 6 eggs. Have on the fire a pint of milk sweetened and flavored with vanilla. When it boils drop the beaten eggs into it by tablespoonfuls, and as soon as they become formed dip them out. Allow milk in saucepan to cool a little, then stir in yolks of the eggs slowly. When thick pour around the snowed eggs and serve cold. 422 CREAMS AND CHARLOTTES. Cream Charlotte Riisse. — This requires a lining of cake arranged in a bowl, a mould, or in any sort of dii>h preferred. Sponge cake, baked thin and divided when cold into two layers of equal thickness by a long, sharp knife, is considered most attractive, but pieces of any plain cake cut half an inch thick, or divided lady fingers, may be used to line the dish or mould. Charlottes are made with or without tops, according to taste or convenience ; and when the supply of cake is limited, stiff paper may be buttered and laid in the bottom of the mould, cake being placed at the sides. Whatever cake is cut off in trimming the forms to shape, may be crumbled and sprinkled over the bottom. Fill the forms with whipped cream seasoned with 4 table- spoonfuls of fine sugar and a teaspoonful of some favorite extract. To make sure that the whipped cream will be stiff, stir into it lightly, but thoroughly, with a spoon, the stiffly beaten whites of 2 eggs to each pint of the cream. Arrange the tops of the forms neatly, or cover them with a layer of cake and set them on ice. Charlotte Russe, — One pint of whipped cream, the whites of 2 eggs, beaten. Dissolve 2 tablespoonfuls of gelatine in 1 cup of cold water, sweeten with powdered sugar to suit the taste, and flavor with vanilla. Take a sponge cake and cut off all the crust, and divide the cake in two-inch pieces. Lay them in a large glass dish and turn the Charlotte russe over them. Make this at night, to be served the next day. Stir it all together well before turning it on the cake. Cool on ice, if possible. If in a mould, it can be turned out in shape ; or it can be moulded in a handsome glass dish and served in the same. Cocoanut grated over the top is an improvement. Hard Times Charlotte Russe. — One and one- half pints sweet rnilk. Set on fire to boil. Mix together in a dish the following arti- cles : One-half large cupful sugar, 1 beaten egg, 1 heaped tablespoon- ful cornstarch, one-half small cupful of milk, 2 tablespoonfuls grated chocolate, a pinch of salt. Blend smoothly. Pour gradually into the boiling milk. Let simmer a few moments, stirring all the time. In the meantime partly fill a large fruit dish with any kind or kinds of stale cake cut in pieces about an inch square. When the cream is nearly cold pour over the cake. Do this a few minutes before setting on the table, so that it will be cold when served. Dish out in saucers. If eggs are scarce, omit, and use an extra heaped tablespoonful of cornstarch. Flavor the cream with lemon or vanilla. CREAMS AND CHARLOTTES. 423 Orange Charlotte Riisse. — One pint sweet cream, half box gel- atine, 1 cupful pulverized sugar, half cupful orange juice, or the juice of 3 large oranges. Soak the gelatine one hour in water enough to cover, then add a little boiling water to dissolve it. Whip the cream. Stir in the dissolved gelatine lightly, but thoroughly, then the sugar and the orange juice, a little at a time. Line a mould with slices of sponge cake and pour in the cream. Set in a cold place to congeal. This and many others of these fancy dishes are better for being made the day before, as by standing they grow firm. On this account they are desirable for Sunday desserts, or for elaborate dinners where there are many dishes that must be prepared the same day. Lemon Charlotte Russe. — Prepare precisely as above, substi- tuting the juice of 2 large or 3 small lemons in place of the orange juice, and adding one-half cupful more of sugar. Banana Charlotte Rii.sse. — Line the sides of a mould with sliced sponge cake and the bottom with sliced bananas ; sprinkle over them a little orange juice, and dust with powdered sugar; whip a pint of cream stiffly with a tablespoonful of sugar and flavor slightly with a few drops of the orange juice. Set on ice until served. The filling may be of some of the creams given before, in which case it can be turned out of the mould in nice shape. With the whipped cream it is apt to break. The beaten white of an egg will help make the whipped cream firmer. Snow Charlotte Russe. — Lay a few slices of stale cake that has been dipped quickly in milk on a dish in which it can be served. Beat stiff the whites of 4 eggs ; add a quarter pound of bleached and finely chopped almonds and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar. Pour over the cake slices and bake 10 minutes, but do not brown. Burnt Almond Charlotte Russe. — One cupful of sweet almonds, blanched and chopped fine, half a box of gelatine soaked 2 hours in half a cupful of water, 3 tablespoonfuls white sugar, l^i cupfuls of milk, 1 cupful of sugar, 2 eggs, yolks and whites separate, 1 quart of sweet cream. Put the 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar in a sauce. LITTLE oatmeal, Graham mush or other cereal may be converted into a dessert by adding sugar, milk and eggs in the desired amount, using 1 egg to a cup of milk and an}" flavoring desired, and baking until the custard sets. It may then be served with cream or with pudding sauce. Cordials arc excellent for flavoring jellies and creams. They give a particularly pleasant and delicate flavor. Maraschino, which has the flavor of bitter cheiry, is much used. Curacao^ which tastes of orange peel, and Noyau, which has the flavor of peach kernels, are good flavoring cordials. Rice Meringue. — Boil half a teacupful of rice half an hour in water; drain water off, pour in half a pint of milk and a tablespoonful of butter. Beat the yolks of 3 eggs and half a cupful of sugar together until light, mix with the rice, add the grated rind of 1 lemon and 2 tablespoonfuls of juice; mix well together; set custard cups in a dripping-pan, fill them two-thirds full with the mixture, pour hot water in the dripping-pan and cook 15 minutes in a hot oven. Beat the whites of the eggs a few minutes, add 3 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar and beat again until stiff; fill each cup with the meringue, set in the oven and brown lightly. Serve cold in the cups. Tipsy Pudding-. — Haifa dozen little sponge cakes, 1 dozen mac- aroons. Make a thick custard with yolks of 3 eggs, 2 teaspoonfuls of cornstarch and two-thirds of a pint of milk, sugar to taste. Boil the milk, mix the cornstarch with a little of it (milk) cold, stir into the hot milk ; when a little cool, add the beaten yolks and sugar, flavor to taste, and set to cool. Lay the sponge cakes in a glass dish, moisten with a wine glass of wine, sprinkle with sugar. Spread a layer of raspberry jam over this, then the macaroons, and pour the cold custard over. Heap the whites of the eggs, well beaten and a little sweetened over all. Place near ice to cool. Lemon Fluff. — Sweeten 1 pint of milk and flavor with vanilla ; beat the whites of 7 eggs to a stiff froth ; heat the milk, and when it boils take a tablespoon of the beaten whites and put it carefully on the milk ; tv.rn it over once, take out with a spoon or skimmer, and 424 DESSERTS. 425 put it on a sieve to drain ; continue this till all the egg- is used up. Now strain the milk and make it into a rich custard, using the yolks of the 7 eggs. When cold put pieces of egg whites on top and serve. Chocolate Custard. — One quart of milk, put over the fire in a double boiler. When it reaches boiling point, add 1 cupful sugar, 4 tablespoonfuls grated chocolate. Boil gently 5 minutes ; add beaten yolks of 6 eggs, gradually stirring all the time. Do not let boil. As soon as thickened, remove from fire. When nearly cold flavor with vanilla to taste. Beat briskly 1 minute ; pour into custard cups ; whip the whites to a froth with powdered sugar and heap some upon each cup. Almond B'anc Mange. — Boil together 1 quart of milk, 4 table- spoonfuls each of cornstarch and sugar. When thick stir into it 30 blanched and split almonds and mould. Serve with cream and sugar. Lemon Rice. — Take 1 cupful of rice, cover with boiling water and let simmer on the back of the stove till thoroughly done ; shake, do not stir, taking care to keep the grains nice and whole. Add the rind of 1 lemon and juice of 2 ; two scant cups of sugar. Set in the oven until the sugar is dissolved (which only takes a minute), then put in a wet mould to cool. Serve with sweetened cream. Rice witli Fig- Sauce. — Soak a cup of rice in 1 3^ cups of water for an hour ; then add a cup of milk, turn into an earthen dish and place in a steam cooker and steam for an hour. Stir occasionally with a fork the first 15 minutes. Fio Sauce. — Carefully look over, wash and cut fine enough good figs to make a cupful. Stew in a pint of water, to which has been added a tablespoonful of sugar, until they are 1 homogeneous mass. Put a spoonful of the hot fig sauce on each dish of rice when serving. Nut Cream. — Put 1 pint of milk in a saucepan over the fire. Moisten 2 tablespoonfuls of starch in a little cold milk; add to hot milk ; cook until thick; add 4 tablespoonfuls of sugar and a teaspoon- ful of rosewater, and pour it into the centre of 6 breakfast plates. Cover the top with chopped almonds, and put 1 drop of orange blos- som water on each. When cold, serve. Coffee Cup Custard. — Mix well 8 egg yolks with 8 ounces of sugar ; dilute with 6 custard cups of boiling milk and a good cupful 42C DESSERTS. of black coffee; pass through a fine strainer, fill the cups and put them in a low pan with boiling water to half their height ; take off the froth that may rise to the surface, cover the j)an and let simmer gently for 20 minutes. When the custard is well set, let cool in the water, drain, wipe the cups and serve cold. Coflfee Jelly, with Sauce. — Two cupfuls clear, strong coffee ; 1 cupful of sugar, 1 cupful of boiling water, one-half cupful cold water, one-half box of gelatine. Soak the gelatine in the cold water an hour ; stir in sugar, and pour over it the boiling water and hot coffee. Strain, and pour in a mould. When cold turn into a glass dish, and serve with a foaming sauce made as follows : Foaming Saticc. — One-half cupful boiling milk ; add 2 tablespoon- fuls sugar mixed with yolk of 1 egg. Stir until it thickens some ; remove from fire and add the well-beaten white, with 2 tablespoonfuls • sugar and grated rind of 1 lemon. Meriiig-iies. — Whisk the whites of 4 eggs to high froth, then stir into it one-half pound finely powdered sugar; flavor with royal ex- tract vanilla or lemon, repeat whisking until it will lie in a heap, then lay mixture on letter paper, in the shape of half an Qgg, moulding it with a spoon, laying each about half an inch apart. Then place paper containing meringues on piece of hard wood, put them into quick oven, do not close it, watch them ; when they begin to have yellow appearance, take out. Remove paper carefully from wood, let them cool for 2 or 3 minutes, then slip thin knife very carefull}^ under one, turn it into your left hand, take another from the paper in the same way, join 2 sides which were next the paper together. The soft inside may be taken out with handle of small spoon, the shells filled with jelly, jam, or cream, then joined together as above, cement- ing them with some of the mixture. Piinipkin Custard. — Hubbard squash is richer and sweeter than pumpkin, and any left from dinner can be used for the custards. 1 quart of hot milk, a large cupful of strained squash, a teaspoonful of butter and 1 of salt, a cupful of sugar in which half a teaspoonful of cinnamon and a pinch of ginger have been mixed, and 3 eggs, beaten light. Mix squash and milk, add the other ingredients, the eggs last, DESSERTS. 427 and pour into custard cups, which must be set in a pan of hot water. Bake till firm, about half an hour, testing with a knife blade. If it comes out clean, they are done. Serve icy cold. Plum Pudding- Glace. — This is the most agreeable way of serv- ing plum pudding in summer. An ice-cream may be used for it, the best being a cream without flavor, and colored a light chocolate color. Cut plum pudding or rich fruit cake in slices, dip them in brandy and cut or break in tiny pieces. After the cream is frozen, stir in the plum pudding and pack. This pudding is sometimes served with a spoonful of whipped cream laid on each slice, and on the cream one or two candied cherries. Lemon Honey. — Lemon honey is a queer, old-fashioned dessert, which is easily made and delicious for a summer night country dinner. Stir the yolks of 6 eggs and the whites of 4 eggs into a pound of granulated sugar. Add the juice of 3 lemons and the grated rinds of 2, and a scant 2 ounces of butter. Cook over a slow fire, stirring constantly, and when the mass is thick and clear like honey, pour it into custard cups and set in the ice-box. If you wish to make this dessert a trifle more elaborate, add a meringue to each cup be- fore setting away to cool It is also used as a cake filling. Custard Pudding. — Boil 1 quart of milk. Moisten 2 tablespoon- fuls of cornstarch into a little cold milk and stir with the boiling milk. Beat the yolks of 6 eggs and half a cup of sugar together and add to the milk. Take from the fire, flavor with a tablespoonful of vanilla, and pour into a pudding dish. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, add 3 teaspoonfuls of powdered sugar, heap on top of the pudding, and set in the oven for 5 minutes. Set on ice until very cold and serve. Vermicelli Dessert. — Put on 1 pint of milk with 2 ounces of desiccated cocoanut, and let it get quite hot, then add one-quarter pound of vermicelli ; let this cook till tender. Now add 2 ounces of well-washed and picked sultanas, put the mixture into a glass dish, pour over it 1 cup of cream, and sprinkle the whole over with bleached and chopped pistachio nuts. Pistache Cakes. — Perfectly delicious for afternoon tea or for a "high tea," are pistache cakes. Beat up 5 ounces each of butter and fine sugar, 6 ounces of flour, and 3 eggs well beaten, adding the flour and eggs alternately. Bake this mixture in a shallow tin. When 428 DESSKRT^. quite cold, cut it into rounds with apricot or peach marmalade, and pile several each above the other. Cover the last layer with a little of the marmalade, and then sprinkle very thickly with blanched pis- tachio nuts. Fill the centre with whipped cream, strew it with nuts, and garnish the heap with little heaps of the cream and nuts. "My Own" Pudding-. — Set 1 quart of milk to boil ; while it is heating mix 1 cup of cornstarch with enough cold water to form it into a thick batter ; add to this 1 cup of sugar and the yolks of 4 eggs ; take the milk from the fire and stir into it eggs, cornstarch and sugar , beat all together a few minutes, or long enough only to cook the eggs. Then take out the pudding, and while hot put over it a layer of jam or jelly. Have the whites of the eggs beaten light with 1 cup of fine sugar ; put this over the jam and brown in the oven. Amber Pndding-. — Six large apples, 3 ounces of moist sugar, 1 lemon, 2 ounces of butter, 3 eggs, puff paste, a few preserved cherries ; peel, core and slice the apples ; place them in a stewpan with the but- ter, sugar and lemon rind and let them stew slov/ly until tender; then rub them through a fine sieve ; line the edges of a pie dish with puff paste and decorate it tastefully; add the yolks of the eggs to the apples and pour the mixture into the pie dish ; bake it in a moderate oven about 20 minutes ; whip the whites very stiff and spread them over the apple ; dredge over a little white sugar, garnish with a few preserved cherries, then place the pudding in a cool oven to set the white of Ggg ; it will take about 10 minutes and should get a very light brown. Potato Cheese Cakes. — They are a most delicious dainty. One- fourth pound of freshly cooked potatoes well mashed. Add to that one-fourth pound of butter and one-fourth pound of white sugar. Then add 2 eggs, beating all the time ; then the juice of a lemon, the rind cut very fine, and one-fourth pound of currants well washed and dried. Put in the juice of the lemon last of all. Line small tart tins with puff paste, or pie plates will do. Put in the mixture. Don't put a cover on. Bake in a quick oven. Clabber. — In the summer clabber is usually served at least for dinner and ofttimes for supper. A particularly nice way of serving this is to have a bowl for each member of the family, into which strain the milk, and when it turns, i. e., becomes a smooth thick cake like blanc mange, serve in the .same dish, eaten with white sugar DESSERTS. 429 sprinkled over it. This is really a delightful dessert, though so simple. Syllabub. — Syllabub is a very old-fashioned dish. To make it, dissolve half a pound of cut sugar in 1 teacupful of wine ; heat 3 pints of cream lukewarm, pour the wine on it, holding it several feet above and pouring very slowly, so as to cause the cream to froth. Airy Nothing-. — Six egg whites ; 6 tablespoonfuls sugar ; 1 cupful jelly. Beat the egg whites ; then add the sugar ; beat for half an hour and then beat in the jelly and set on the ice. Serve in saucers with whipped cream flavored with vanilla. Moonshine. — Make 1 quart of rich cream very sweet, grate half a nutmeg over ; put into a glass dish, then beat very stiff 3 egg whites, add half a cup powdered sugar and sufficient currant jelly to color the froth. When thoroughly beaten and perfectly smooth drop the froth from a large spoon on the cream, and keep in a cool place until served. Fruit Desserts. Apple Mering-ue. — Stew a quart of sour apples, and add the juice and part of the grated rind of 1 lemon, together with sugar to suit the taste. Strain the apples through a colander and place them in a nice pudding dish. Beat the whites of 4 eggs to a stiff froth, to which add with a spoon 1 cupful of fine sugar and a teaspoonful of vanilla or lemon extract. Spread this frosting over the apples, and set the pudding in the oven to brown slightly, after which place it where it will become ice cold. The yolks of the eggs may be used, with the addition of 1 whole egg, to make a caramel custard in cups for the next day's dessert. Tutti Friitti Apples. — A choice dessert is made from large, well- flavored and rather tart apples. Pare the apples, take out the cores and put them in a baking pan. Sift over them after they begin to bake enough granulated sugar to coat the outsides. Bake until ten- der and somewhat brown, but take them from the oven while they are still whole. Put them in a flat and rather deep dish. Chop 2 dozen blanched almonds, and mix with them 4 ounces of seeded and chopped raisins, and 2 tablespoonfuls of dried currants. Add to these a half cupful of water, the same quantity of sugar, the grated yellow rind of a lemon, and a dessertspoonful of lemon juice. Sim- mer half an hour, then boil hard for 10 minutes. Fill in the centre 430 DESSERTS. of the apples with this mixture and pour that which is left over the outside. Serve cold with whipped cream. A mixture of chopped candied fruits may be added to a syrup and used in the same way. Apple Sponge. — Cover half a box of gelatine with cold water and allow it to stand for half an hour; then pour over it half a pint of boiling water, and stir until dissolved. Press a pint of .stewed apples through a sieve and mix with the gelatine ; add a pound of sugar, and stir until it melts; squeeze in the juice of 2 lemons ; turn the mixture into a tin pan ; set on ice until it begins to thicken. Beat the whites of 3 eggs ; stir into the apples ; beat all together until thick and cold. Pour into a mould and set on ice to harden. Serve with whipped cream or plain cream and sugar. Apple or Peaeh Meriiig-ue. — One quart of strained apple sauce, or 8 tart apples stewed soft and rubbed through a sieve. If canned ^r^ ^-^^^ peaches are used, add a cupful of sugar, stew soft ^^r ^^L ^^^ '^"^ through a sieve. For the apple, add [W ^m 1 cupful of sugar, half a teaspoonful of lemon or ^>L- MM vanilla extract and the well-beaten yolks of 4 eggs. / \% i\ ll| Butter a pudding dish, put in the mixture, and bake i^«55§? i ill 1 11 "^^ minutes in a quick oven. Beat the 4 whites to ^^ lil '- U "^ ^^'^ froth, and add 4 tablespoonfuls of pow- ^'w* dered sugar; spread over the hot pudding and Gem Apple Corers. , r iVi tt 4. 1 • ij -^ brown very lightly. Eat when ice cold, with or without cream. Without the meringue this compound will keep in the ice-chest for many days without losing any of its delicate flavor. Apple Float. — Boil the apple till tender, and press through a sieve till the whole pulp is entirely free from lumps. Sweeten to taste, and beat through it the whites of several eggs that have already been well frothed. Lemon juice or nutmeg can be added if flavoring is desired. Now pour the float into a handsome glass bowl, and on top, with a large spoon, heap the whipped whites of eggs or whipped cream, and dust sugar and nutmeg over it, and here and there drop clear apple jelly on it. Eat with cream, plain or whipped. Apple Trifle. — Take smooth, well-sweetened apple sauce, chill, put in a deep glass dish, and heap whipped cream over the top. De- licious. Apple Wliip. — Make a pint of milk into rich boiled custard, by adding, when at boiling point, a teacupful of sugar, a bit of butter DESSERTS. 431 the size of a small walnut, and the yolks of 3 eggs beaten to a cream, and a pinch of salt. Stir all together till smooth and creamy ; then add 1 pint of apple sauce which has been put through a fine strainer, and beat all together. A teaspoonful of vanilla is to be added when cold, and at the last, just before serving, the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, with a tablespoonful of sugar. Cold Peacli Pudding-. — One quart peaches, sliced ; three-fourths cup sugar, half teaspoonful vanilla, 1 pint milk, 3 eggs, 2 tablespoon- fuls flour, one-fourth teaspoonful salt. Put the milk in a double boiler, set on the fire, beat together sugar, flour, salt and eggs ; stir this into the mixture of the boiling milk; cook for 15 minutes, stir- ring often ; take from the fire ; add the vanilla; set the bowl in a cool place ; pare and slice the peaches. When the cream is cold, stir the peaches into it. Stand the pudding on ice for an hour. Turn into a glass dish to serve. Peach Meringue. — Boil 1 quart of milk, omitting one-half cup to moisten ; 2 tablespoonfuls cornstarch. When the milk boils, add the moistened cornstarch ; stir constantly until thick ; remove from fire, add 1 tablespoonful butter ; let cook. Then beat in yolks of 3 eggs until the mixture seems light and creamy ; add one-half cup pow- dered sugar. Cover the bottom of a well-buttered baking dish with 2 or 3 layers of rich, juicy peaches (pared, halved and stoned), sprin- kle with 3 tablespoonfuls powdered sugar, pour over them the cus- tard, and bake 20 minutes, then spread w^ith the light beaten whites, well sweetened, and return to the oven until a light brown. Serve with cream or a rich sauce. Nice without any dressing. Banana Trifle. — One quart of sweet milk, 3 fresh eggs, half cup of sugar; scald all to a soft custard; when cool flavor with vanilla; have ready a deep dish with 6 bananas peeled and sliced thin, and a few slices of sponge cake ; pour the above over this and set away where it will get cold. Banana Tapioca. — A cup of tapioca soaked over night. Next morning put into a farina kettle with as much water as one would use for cooking rice ; when cooked perfectly clear, sugar it and salt it as one likes it, slice six bananas, stir into the hot pudding, cool it in a mould and serve it with whipped cream. Banana Moonshine. — Beat the whites of 6 eggs to a very stiff froth. Then add gradually 7 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, beat- 432 DESSERTS. ing until stiff and hard. Then beat in half a cupful of banana which has been whipped to a cream. Set on ice until thoroughly chilled. Serve with whipped cream flavored with vanilla. Banana Meringue. — Put in a saucepan a quart of milk, half a tablcspoonful of cornstarch smoothly mixed, half a cup of sugar and the beaten yolks of 4 eggs ; set this over boiling water, and when nearly boiling remove at once. When cold, stir in half a dozen sliced bananas and turn into a glass dish ; cover the top with meringue made from the whipped whites and serve with lady-fingers and whipped cream. Pineapple Cream Pudding-. — To make pineapple cream pudding for 6 persons, use 1 pineapple of medium size, 1 pint of milk, 3 eggs, three-fourths of a cupful of sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of salt and half a teaspoonful of vanilla extract. Put the milk in the double boiler and on the fire. Beat together, until light and smooth, the sugar, flour, salt and eggs. Stir this mixture into the boiling milk and cook for 15 minutes, stirring frequently. Then take from the fire and turn the mixture into a bowl. Beat the vanilla extract into the mixture and set the bowl away in a cool place. Pare the pineapple and grate it into a deep dish. When the cream becomes cool stir the pineapple into it, then place the pudding in the refrigerator for an hour or more, to chill it thoroughly. Turn into a glass dish and serve. Serve plain, or with whipped cream. Strawberry Pudding. — Beat the yolks of 4 eggs and 4 table- spoonfuls of sugar. Add the juice of 1 cup of berries and 2 table- spoonfuls of hot water, and simmer until it thickens. Remove from the fire, partly cool and stir in the whites of 4 eggs, beaten stiff, with 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar. Add 1 quart of very ripe strawberries. Serve cold with sauce made of one-half cup of butter and 1 cup of sugar, stirred to a cream and piled on top. Strawberry Bread Pudding. — Beat yolks of 4 eggs with half a cup of sugar, add a pint of milk and 1 cup of stale crumbs. Mix and turn in a baking dish. Bake until " set " in a moderate oven about 20 minutes. Take out and cover thickly with sugared berries. Beat the whites of the eggs until very light, add to them 4 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, beat again. Spread over the berries, dust thickly. Strawberry PufT Pudding. — Sift 2 tablespoonfuls of baking powder with 1 pint of flour; beat well 1 egg; add a little salt; mix DESSERTS. 433 with sweet milk till of the consistency of thick batter ; place well- greased cups in a steamer ; put into each a spoonful of batter, then a spoonful of strawberries, and cover with another spoonful of batter, steam 20 minutes. Eat with cream and sugar, or a liquid hot sauce with a cupful of strawberry juice added. Custartl Strawberries. — Put 1 pint of milk on the stove; when it comes to a boil add the yolks of 3 eggs, half cup of sugar and stir in the boiling milk ; after it thickens take from the fire and cool ; have ready a box of strawberries with sugar put over them, then turn the custard over them and beat the whites of the eggs with 3 teaspoons of powdered sugar and frost it ; set in oven to brown. Jellied Strawberries. — Melt 2 ounces of gelatine in a little cold water; squeeze the juice from a quart of currants, and add to the gela- tine, and sweeten ; stem a pint and a half of ripe strawberries ; mix in the currant juice; turn into a mould; set on ice to harden, and serve with cream. Strawberry Gelatine. — Take half a box of gelatine, dissolve in half cup of cold water; then pour on a pint of boiling water; sweeten and flavor to taste. Now take a glass dish, pour a little on the bot- tom, set on ice, when stiff put a layer of strawberries on top and cover with gelatine; set on ice; when stiff this time put on another layer of strawberries, powder with sugar, and you have a very nice and cheap dessert. Orange Ambrosia Pudding-. — Fill a glass dish with layers of orange and banana, or alternate layers of oranges, strawberries, and sliced bananas. Sprinkle with grated cocoanut, if desired. Sweeten well. Make a custard with a pint of milk, 2 eggs (leave out 1 white), a little flour or cornstarch, half a cupfu! of sugar, not to make it stiff, but a little thicker ; pour the custard over the fruit. The white, beaten stiff, with 4 tablespoonfuls of sugar, can be dropped in spoon- fuls over the top. Serve very cold. Orange Jelly, in Baskets. — With a sharp penknife cut halfway round the centre of the orange, leaving a strip half an inch in width to serve as a handle ; take out all the pulp ; when finished, the skin of the orange should be in the form of a basket; the basket should be a little more than half the depth of the orange. Now, with a pair of scissors cut the top edge of the basket in points. To make the jelly, strain the pulp of the oranges ; soak one-half box of 434 DESSERTS. gelatine in one-half cupful of cold water until soft ; add 1 cupful of boiling water, the juice of 1 lemon, 1 cupful of sugar, and 1 pint of orange juice. Stir till the sugar is dissolved, and strain. When cool, fill the orange skins, which have in the meantime been carefully washed cleaned, and placed in a pan of broken ice to keep upright, and at the same time to chill. Some cooks, when they are ready to serve, put a spoonful of whipped cream over the jelly in each basket. To serve these baskets, they should be placed on small doilies, and a ribbon- bow of yellow, or pale blue satin tied on each handle. Or, send to table in a bed of orange, or laurel, or some other kind of pretty green leaves. Orange Tapioca. — Wash 3 tablespoonfuls of tapioca, cover with cold water and soak over night. In the morning heat 1 pint of milk in a double boiler, add the tapioca, a pinch of salt, and boil 20 min- utes. To the well-beaten yolks of 2 eggs, add half a tcacupful of granulated sugar and 1 tablespoonful of cornstarch dissolved in a little cold milk, stir into the boiling milk and boil for 5 minutes. Then pour into a pudding dish ; make a meringue of the whites of eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, flavor with orange extract, and stand in a moderate oven to brown slightly. Pare, slice thinly, and remove the seeds of 6 or 8 large sweet oranges, lay in the bottom of a glass dish, and sift powdered sugar over and between each layer. When the pudding is cold run a wet knife around to loosen the edge, lay it over the fruit, and serve. Orauge Cream. — Grate 1 lemon and 2 oranges ; mix with a cup- ful of sugar and half a cupful of water. Put in a small saucepan, set on the stove until the sugar is dissolved ; beat 3 eggs and stir in ; set off to cool. When thick, stir in a teacupful of whipped cream. Set on ice until very cold, and serve with cake. Orange Float. — Add the juice of 3 lemons to a quart of water; put in a saucepan with a cup of sugar ; set on the fire until it boils ; .stir in 3 tablespoonfuls of cornstarch, and set aside to cool. Peel 6 large oranges, slice and lay in a deep glass dish; pour the mixture over. Spread the top with .meringue, and serve very cold with sponge cake. Orange Snowballs. — Boil 1 cup of rice, and, when cool, spread evenly on 6 or 8 dumpling cloths. Pare as many small oranges, taking off all the white skin, and tie the fruit surrounded by the rice DESSERTS. 435 in the cloths, boiHng steadily for one hour. Turn out, cover with powdered sugar, and serve with whipped cream or a rich liquid sauce. Currant Meringue. — Crush together a cupful of currants with an equal measure of sugar. Beat the yolks of 2 eggs with a round- ing teaspoonful of flour, and stir this into the currants, adding a little water, unless the fruit is quite juicy. Pour the mixture into a deep pie plate and bake. When it is done, cover the top with a meringue made from the whites of the eggs beaten with 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar. Brown slightly in the oven and serve cold. Red Currant Snow. — A pint of boiling water, 2 tablespoonfuls of cornstarch and a cupful of sugar. Remove from the fire when cooked thick, and add the juice of 2 cups of red currants, crushed and pressed through a colander. Whip the whites of 2 eggs, add a little sugar, and pour over all. Blackberry Cream. — Sprinkle half a cupful of sugar over 2 quarts of ripe berries, and mash them with a heavy spoon or wooden pestle. Set aside for a couple of hours, then strain the juice through a thin cloth, and add another half cupful of sugar. Partially whip a pint of sweet cream, to which add the fruit juice; continue the whip- ping, gradually adding the stiff-beaten whites of 2 eggs. When no more cream arises from the whipping, serve at once. Blackberry Mush or Flummery. — To a quart of ripe blackber- ries add a pint of water and cook till tender, then stir in a little corn- starch, arrowroot or wheat flour to thicken the cooked fruit to a proper consistency, and make a jelly or mush of it. Sweeten to taste, and serve either warm or cold with cream. Be careful not to get the mixture too stiff or too sweet, as in either case much of its flavor and delicacy is destroyed. Dewberries, strawberries, raspberries or any of the small fruits can be used in the same way, and all make deli- cious mushes. Any kind of fruit mush makes a very delicate dessert in hot weather ; and when blackberries are in season there is no more dainty and healthful breakfast dish than blackberry mush. Mould and serve with cream. Fruit Sauce for Pudcling-s. — Mash a quart of ripe fruit, beat it, sift a cupful of sugar over it and set away. If the fruit is very sweet, less sugar will be required. About 10 minutes before the sauce is needed set it over the fire and stir constantly. When heated nearly to boiling, turn it about the base of the pudding, which has been 436 DESSERTS. placed in a deep platter. Fruit sauce is, by the bye, as attractive in appearance as it is delicious in taste. Ka.spbcrry Float. — One quart red raspberries ; whites of 4 eggs; 6 tablespoonfuls sugar. Mash berries, add half cup sugar ; let stand half an hour; press through strainer. Beat whites to stiff froth, add raspberry juice a little at a time. Serve in small glass dishes with cake. Raspberry Trifle. — Six small sponge cakes, such as are sold for a cent a piece at bakers' shops ; 1 quart of milk ; 5 eggs ; 1 cup of sugar ; 1 quart red raspberries ; 1 cup of sweet cream ; vanilla for flavoring. Make a custard of the milk, the sugar and the yolks of the eggs, flavoring with the vanilla. Split the cakes; lay half of them in the bottom of a glass dish ; pour over them half the cream, and strew thickly with the berries sprinkled with sugar. Cover these with a second layer of cake, moistened with the rest of the cream, and spread with the remainder of the berries. Pour the ice-cold cus- tard over all ; beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff meringue with a little powdered sugar ; mix in a handful of berries, and heap the me- ringue on top of the trifle. Raspberry Meriug-iie. — Line a pie plate with good light pastry, and bake in a quick oven. While still warm, spread thickly with red raspberries. Make a meringue of the whites of 4 eggs beaten stiff with a half-cupful of powdered sugar, and when it is a froth stir lightly through it a half-pint of raspberries. Heap the meringue on top of the berries in the pie plate, and brown very delicately in the oven. Eat as soon as it is cool. Tapioca Fruit Dessert. — Make a plain blanc mange or jelly by boiling soaked tapioca until clear in either milk or water ; put a layer of mixed preserved and candied fruits in a glass dish, and when the tapioca has cooled sufficiently, pour a part of it over them ; add more fruit and the remainder of the tapioca. Serve cold. Rbubarb witb Lemon Cream. — Over some rich stewed rhubarb pour the following : Mix well together 6 ounces of loaf sugar and the grated rind and juice of 2 lemons, then add 1 pint of sweet thick cream and whisk it to a froth. This is also nice over strawberries, raspberries, or almost any fresh, ripe fruit. Rhubarb Tapioca. — Wash, and cut into small pieces, 1 quart of rhubarb. Cook it, with 1 pint of sugar, in a porcelain or granite DESSERTS. 437 double boiler, until tender ; do not stir it. Skim it out carefully and put it into an earthen pudding dish. To the syrup left in the double boiler add enough boiling water to make 1 quart, and when boiling add two-thirds of a cup of pearl tapioca. Let it boil 1 hour, then pour it over the rhubarb. Add 1 large tablespoonful of butter, and bake about half an hour. Serve with foamy sauce or with cream. Plum Custard. — Stone and stew a pint of plums. Lay them in the bottom of a pudding dish, sprinkle with sugar, and pour over them a cream made by cooking together until thick and smooth 2 cups of milk and 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, and adding to this after it comes from the fire a tablespoonful of butter and the yolks of 3 eggs, beaten light. Bake the cream-covered plums 10 minutes, cover them with a meringue made of the whites of the eggs beaten with 3 table- spoonfuls of powdered sugar, brown lightly, and eat cold with cream. Plum Puddingy. — Stew a quart of plums, remove the pits, sweeten, and pour them into an earthen pudding dish. Cover them with a thick batter, made by taking a cupful of sweet cream or rich milk, 1 egg, a teaspoonful of baking powder and flour sufficient to give the right consistency. A soft biscuit dough may also be used for the covering. Steam for an hour or bake for half as long. On remov- ing from the dish, invert the ]:)udding, and serve with hard sauce. Quince Snow. — Quarter 5 quinces, boil until tender in water; peel and rub through a colander, sweeten to the taste, and add the whites of 4 eggs. Beat all to a stiff froth and pile with a spoon upon a glass dish and put in the ice-box to chill. Fruit Trifle. — Whites of 4 eggs beaten to a stiff froth, with 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar. Then whisk in 2 tablespoonfuls each of cur- rant jelly and raspberry jam. Grape Trifle. — Stew Concord grapes and pass them through a colander. Sweeten the pulp and juice and thicken it slightly with cornstarch. Pour it hot over small slices of stale bread, biscuit or cake. Before these are soft enough to fall to pieces, pile them up in a glass dish, interlaying with desiccated cocoanut. Cover with a me- ringue made with the white of an egg beaten with pulverized sugar, and dot with macaroons or walnut meats and strips of jelly. Serve cold Jellied Prunes. — One pint of prunes, a pint and a half of water, half a package of gelatine, juice of 2 oranges, and half a pint of sugar- 438 DESSERTS. Soak the gelatine in 1 gill of the water for 2 hours. Wash the prunes in several waters, rubbing them well between the hands. Put them in a stew-pan with ly. cups water; stew slowly for 1 hour. Take up the prunes and remove the stones. Return the fruit to the water in the stew-pan and let it boil up. Add the gelatine and take from the fire. Stir until the gelatine is dissolved, then add the sugar and orange juice. Put the stew-pan in a pan of ice water, and stir the preparation until it begins to thicken. Pour into a mould, and set in a cool place to harden. It should stand for 4 or 5 hours, and then be served with soft custard or whipped cream. Prime Jelly. — Stone 1 pound of prunes and put them into a saucepan with sufficient water to cover them ; add one-quarter pound of sugar and the juice of half a lemon, and stew all gently for 2 hours ; then pass the prunes through a wire sieve. Soak one-half ounce of gelatine in water and add it to the prunes ; then break the prune- stones and add the kernels to the jelly. Boil all together for 2 min- utes, then pour into a mould. This jelly is often served in border moulds, and the centre filled up with whipped cream. A little car- mine improves the color, and claret is sometimes used instead of water to stew the prunes in. Date Meriugue — Is a delicate dessert, and may be quickly made in a case of unexpected company, if one has at hand the sine qua non. Beat the whites of 5 eggs to a stiff froth, add 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar, and one-half pound of dates, stoned and cut up fine. Bake 15 minutes in a moderate oven. Serve, as soon as cool, with thick, sweet cream, or a custard made with the yolks. Dessei't Dates. — May have a peanut or almond put in place of the stone, and the date rolled in coarse granulated sugar, or dipped in thin frosting. Prettily arranged, they will be found attractive alike to the eye and the palate. Dates and Almonds. — Prepared together this is an Eastern di.sh, very delicious, but almost too rich for our liking. To make it, cut a slit in each date, slip out the stone and insert a blanched almond. Then prepare a rich sugar syrup. Wlien it boils, put in the dates, .stew gently until they are easily pierced all through, remove from the fire, and serve cold. Steamed Dates or Figs. — Remove all particles of dirt found on the dates ; cut the dates open lengthwise and take out the stone, also DESSERTS. 439 an occasional worm next the stone. Pinch the dates together again, and place in dish loosely. Have water boiling under steamer, put dish of dates into it, and steam 10 minutes only. Remove steamer to open window ; take off the cover to let the steam evaporate. Serve warm or cold, with or without cream. Figs can be served same way. Fig- Custard. — Butter a two-quart tin pudding mould, tear in half figs enough to cover the sides and bottom, first scraping them care- fully to see that they are free from defects. Make a custard of a pint of milk, 3 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar, and a teaspoonful of lemon flavor, or 2 or 3 strips of the yellow peel of a lemon. Thicken the custard with 3 tablespoonfuls of macaroons, or dried sponge cake, after it has been boiled, and add 2 tablespoonfuls ol gelatine which has been soaking in cold water for 2 hours. Pour the custard into the mould, cover it closely, and let it cook in a steamer or in the oven for 1 hour. At the end of this time, take it out and set it away to become cold. Then slip it out of the mould, carefully loosening the sides with a knife, and serve it with a sauce of whipped cream. Cherry Pudding-. — A delicious cherry pudding is made of early red cherries by the following recipe: Beat the yolks of 4 eggs until light, then the whites, and add with a pint of rich milk ; sift in 2 pints of flour with 2 teaspoonfuls of baking pow- der, and beat until smooth ; then add 2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter, with a pinch of salt. Drain the juice from 3 teacups of stoned cherries, dredge them with flour, and stir with the batter ; turn into a buttered pudding mould ; cover, and stand in a pot of boiling water, to boil for 3 hours. Serve with hard sauce. Cherry Charlotte. — Cut in narrow strips a kw slices of stale sponge cake, and arrange these around the sides of a deep glass dish. Stone a quart of fine, juicy cherries, and sprinkle lightly with sugar, unless very sweet. Pour these, juice and all. over the sponge cake. Now whip a pint of sweet cream very stiff; sweeten to taste, color about half of it with red cherry juice, and pile it upon the cherries. Let it remain in the icebox until the moment of serving. m "VHESE delicious summer desserts are capable of innumerable variations. As warm weather grows apace, and the appetite for plain and cooked fruits wanes, these delicacies will tempt the most jaded palate. The ways of serving are so varied that the most elaborate conserve may be pre- pared from many ingredients, or a simple dish concocted of odds and ends that will be a pleas- ant and agreeable change. In very many of Fruit Salad recipes, wines and cordials are used as flavoring. This, however, is not a necessity, for any one who ob- jects to them on principle will find that a half cup of orange juice may be used as a substitute in any salads given in this department. Fruit Salad. — Half box gelatine ; use double the amount in hot weather. Dissolve in sufficient cold water to completely cover. Then pour over it 1 pint of boiling water. When cool add 1 cup of sugar and the juice of 2 lemons. Arrange the fruits in a dish that will set level on the ice, and pour the gelatine solution over all. Fruits as follows: 1 can apricots, 1 can pineapple, 3 oranges, cut in slices; 6 bananas, sliced; 10 cents worth of almonds, blanched and chopped; peaches, sliced, to equal the bananas in amount ; add strawberries and raspberries. Mingle all carefully together, pour the gelatine over, and set on the ice. Any fruit not at hand can be omitted. Fruit Gelatine. — One box of gelatine in 1 pint of cold water a few moments; add 1 quart boiling water, 1^ pints granulated sugar. When dissolved, flavor with juice of 3 lemons. Strain into a mould, before it begins to stiffen ; add 4 oranges, sliced in small pieces, leaving the white skin ; one-half pound of Malaga grapes, split lengthwise; one-half pound English walnut kernels, halved ; one-half teacup of pineapple, cut in small pieces ; a few seeded raisins sometimes added. Serve with whipped cream. Let stand on ice until firm before turn- ing out. Banana Salads. — Cut a few bananas straight down the middle, and then cut them lengthwise into strips. Put them in layers, with slices of orange, in a glass dish, .sprinkling sugar plentifully over each 440 FRUIT SALADS. 441 layer. Lay aside for 2 hours, and then serve with couple tablespoon- fuls lemon juice poured over it all. An excellent salad is made out of cut bananas, served in red currant or blackberry syrup. Another good salad is of bananas, tinned apricots and French preserved plums; or, again, of bananas, grapes, slices of apple, pear, orange, and black- berries. Fi'encli Bauana Salad. — Put in a salad glass a layer of ice well powdered with sugar, and upon this a layer of bananas, which have been peeled and picked to pieces with a silver fork ; again a handful of chopped ice and sugar, and after this bananas, repeating until the salad glass is as full as required. Pour upon the fruit a wineglass of white wine, and a wineglass of tepid water, in which you have dipped a lump of sugar that has absorbed the drops of almond essence ; and another that has absorbed 3 drops of genuine eau de cologne, which is constantly used in cookery in France. In the right cologne you get the compressed extract of rosemary and lemon thyme. Mix the salad well, and dress the top with whipped cream and a few preserved violets. You will not detect the cologne, as with the other ingre- dients it unites to produce a subtle, slightly mysterious, but delicious flavor. Sweet Orang-e Salad. — Take equal quantities of oranges and ripe, rich apples, peeled and sliced, and the latter soaked in lemon juice. Dip both in powdered sugar. Put these in a bowl in layers and add a glass of white wine and 2 tablespoons of orange flower water. Omit the wine, add a little lemon juice. Strawberry Salad. — Another admirable way of serving straw- berries is in salads with other fruits — with sliced bananas over which lemon juice has been squeezed, for example, or with shredded pine- apple, this last affording an unsurpassable flavor. Peach Salad. — Cut some carefully peeled peaches in thin slices, dress them in a circle with sifted sugar. This salad is to be preferred only when ready to serve. Pear Salad. — Peel and cut into thin slices some very fine ripe pears, sweeten and finish the same as the peaches. Orange Salad. — Cut the oranges without peeling them, and finish the same as for the above, substituting lemon juice for orange. Apple Salad. — To be prepared and flavored the same as the pears, only suppressing the cores and seeds. Use nice apples. Use porcelain, granite, or iron kettles, or stone jars for preserving. Fruits that require paring should be dropped into cold water as soon as peeled to prevent blackening. Pare the fruit with a silver knife to avoid discoloration. Boil preserves gently. In preserving, the syrup some- times begins to rise so rapidly that there is no time to move the heavy kettle aside. In such a case it is well to know that a teaspoonful of cold water thrown into the syrup will make it subside immediately. Use granulated sugar in preserving fruit and alwaj's look it over carefully before using. The fruit should not be over- ripe, for if it is too soft, it will quickly break during the process and have an uninviting look when ready to set away. When preparing quinces for preserves and marmalade, save all the peelings, cores and seed. Cover these with water and cook until very soft. Strain, add to the liquid as much sugar as you have of juice and boil until thick enough to jell. It is not necessary that preserves be kept air-tight, but they should not be put up in large vessels, for a mould is apt to form on the top after a jar is opened. If possible, use quart jars. If the jars have tops, close them when filled as in can- ning ; if not, cover the preserves with paper that has been dipped in brandy, after which paste a circular piece of paper over the top of the jar the same as for jelly. An asbestos mat is a useful article to keep preserves and jams from burning. To prevent preserves and jams from sugaring add a teaspoonful of cream tartar to every gallon of fruit before it is quite cooked. A very little tartaric acid will answer the same purpose. Preserves that are candied may be liquefied by setting the jar in a kettle of cold water. Let the water boil continuously for an hour or more. To keep from becoming mouldy put a few drops of glycerine around the edges of the jar before screwing on the cover. This is a sure pre- ventive. When preserves are but slightly fermented, simply pouring off the syrup, scalding it, and turning back over the fruit, will be sufficient. If necessary, scald the entire fruit and juice. Cleanse the jars thor- 442 PRESERVES AND JAMS. 443 oughly. Rinse, with a little bi-carbonate of soda in the water. Re- turn the fruit to the jar and cover while hot. They should be kept in a cool, dry place, and looked at every few weeks. Sug-ar, To Clarify. — Clarify when brown sugar is used. With very nice white sugar this process is hardly necessary. Put the sugar in the preserving kettle in the proportion of 1 cupful of water to 1 pound of sugar. To every 5 pounds of sugar add the beaten white of an egg. Put all together over a slow fire to dissolve, stir and let boil up once or twice, set back a minute and skim. Return to the fire and let boil 15 minutes, removing and skimming several times. Then pour off the clear syrup, wash the kettle, pour back the syrup and put the fruit in to cook, adding more water if necessary. Cooking' Preserves in Syrup. — Put in only as much as the syrup will cover. When done remove and add more fruit. If necessary, more syrup can be made. Peaches. Peach Preserves. — Select peaches that are ripe, but not soft, and free stones. Pour boiling water upon them and let them stand 5 or 6 minutes, then pour off the water and pull off the skins. Weigh the fruit after it is pared and the stones extracted, and allow a pound of granulated sugar to every one of peaches. Crack one-quarter of the stones, and extract the kernels. Put sugar and peaches in alternate layers in a stone jar and let stand all night. Blanch the peach ker- nels. The next day pour off the syrup and boil it a few minutes, set off the fire and skim. Return to the fire, and when it boils lay in the peaches, scattering the peach kernels among them. Boil very slowly one-half hour, then lay the peaches into jars, boil the syrup 15 min- utes longer and pour over them. The peach kernels give a delicate flavor. In canning, pack the peaches in the jar and pour the syrup over them. Instead of halving the peaches some cooks force out the pit and leave the peach as whole as possible. Peach Preserves. — II. Select a white variety of the fruit, and a clingstone. Pare, and drop each peach into a stone jar of clear water. Scalding is a speedy way of paring, but darkens the flesh a little sometimes. Allow three-fourths of a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit. Place in the kettle a teacupful of water for every 4 pounds of fruit, and then the fruit and sugar in alternate layers. Boil until 444 PRESERVES AND JAMS. the peaches can be pierced with a fork, after which skim out the fruit and boil down the syrup as in the [)receding recipe ; tlien returu the fruit for a final heating. These preserves should be kept in wide- mouthed glass jars or a small stone jar. Leave the stones in, or not, as preferred. Braiidii'd P«iiclie.s. — Select firm, ripe fruit, which should be pared only, not halved. Make a thin syrup of sugar and water, to cover the fruit, and boil until the peaches can be pierced easily with a fork. Take out with a skimmer, and pack in quart glass jars. Make the syrup very rich, and boil it 15 minutes. Add the best brandy in the proportions of 2 tablespoonfuls to a quart can. Pour the syrup, while still hot, over the peaches, filling the cans to the top and seal. The old- time method was to add the same amount of brandy that there was syrup, thus form- ing a compound that had a most aggressive odor of liquor, and one repellant to refined tastes. Made in the fashion here given, the little dash of spirits simply gives a piquant flavor to the preserve. Peach Butter. — To 1 bushel of peaches allow from 8 to 10 pounds of granulated sugar. Pare and halve the peaches; put into the kettle and stir constantly to prevent sticking until perfectly smooth and rather thick. Some of the peach stones thrown in and cooked with the peaches give it a nice flavor, and they can be afterwards skimmed out. Add the sugar a short time before taking from the fire ; put in jars and cover tight. Peaches should be neither too mealy nor too juicy. Peach Marinalade. — Pare and quarter the peaches. Allow three- fourths of a pound of sugar and a cup of water to each pound of fruit. Cook slowly, stirring and mashing the fruit; skim, and be careful that it does not burn when nearly done. Small and imperfect fruit can be economically used for marmalade. To every 2 pounds of fruit add then the kernels of half a dozen peach stones chopped fine, and the juice ofa lemon. Cool 10 minutes longer and put in small jars or Scale. jelly glasses. peach pits. Some add the juice of a lemon, or two, instead of the PRESERVES AND JAMS. 445 Pears. Preserved Pears. — Pare the fruit; divide; remove the core; add- ing to each pound of pears three-quarters of a pound of sugar. Make a syrup by adding as many cups of water as there are pounds of sugar. Boil and skim ; when clear put in the pears and stew until tender. Choose pears like the Seckle for preserving, on account of flavor and size. (Leave small pears whole.) Pears possess very little decided flavor of their own, hence a nice way is to stick a clove in the blos- som end of each pear. Another nice way is to add the juice and thinly pared rind of 1 lemon to each five pounds of fruit. If the pears are hard and tough, parboil them until tender before beginning to preserve, and from the same water take what is needed for making the syrup. Large pears must be halved, or even sliced. Pack the pears in jars; boil the syrup a few minutes longer, and pour into cover the fruit ; seal immediately, or put in jars, and simply tie down when cold. Preserved Pears. — IL Pare, core, and quarter the fruit, and for each pound of pears take one-half pound of sugar. Save the perfect cores and skins and boil these in sufficient water to cover. Strain this and put the sugar in, let boil and add the prepared fruit ; stew gently until the syrup becomes colored finely. Can and seal im- mediately. Ginger Pears. — This is a delicious sweetmeat. Use a firm pear, peel, core, and halve them. Have a syrup made of three-fourths of a pound of sugar to each pound of fruit; for 8 pounds of fruit use 6 pounds of sugar, the juice and rind of 4 lemons, i pint of water, and half a pound of ginger-root (the green, if possible), sliced thin. Boil the sliced and scraped ginger-root in the pint of water for 20 minutes, add the sugar, boil 10 minutes and skim. Then put in the fruit, which has been previously pared and dropped in cold water to prevent its turning black. Cut the lemons in long, thin strips, and cook all together slowly until the pears are tender. Pack the pears in jars, and fill each jar up to the brim with syrup, put on the rubbers, and screw on the tops as tight as you can. Be careful, when the jars are cold, to tighten them still further before you set them away. Divide up the slices of lemon-peel and pieces of ginger equally among the jars. This is a most delicious and rich preserve, and is especially nice 446 PRESERVES AND JAMS. when served, like preserved ginger, with ice cream. The above is an old-fashioned recipe, dating back to colonial times, when these ginger fruit preserves were a special feature of the tables of hospitable dames. Branclied Pears. — In making brandy pears, Bartletts are the only variety that will give entire satisfaction when brandied, as they have a more decided flavor than any other. Select firm but ripe pears, and proceed as for Brandied Peaches. Pear Marmalade. — Pare, peel and core good, ripe pears, and for every 12 pounds allow 8 of sugar and 1 quart of water. Slice the fruit, and put it and the water together in a kettle, which stand on the fire and boil till the fruit is very soft. Then add the sugar, well bruised, and a few sticks of cinnamon tied together, so as to form a fagot. Stir the marmalade over a brisk fire with a clean wooden spoon till it is reduced to a rather thick paste that runs slowly off the spoon. Remove from the fire, and pour at once into either small jars or jelly glasses. Quinces. Quince Preserves. — This variety of preserves requires a longer time for preparation than any other, but is fully worth the extra time and trouble, for it is the prettiest and most palatable of all preserved fruits. Choose fine, yellow quinces ; pare, quarter and core them, or cut in circular slices an inch thick ; pare and dig the core from each, so as to leave the slice ring-shaped. Save all the perfect cores and skins. Put the quinces over the fire with just water enough to cover them, and simmer until they are soft enough to pierce with a yellow straw. Take out carefully with a skimmer, and spread upon broad dishes to cool. Add the cores and parings to the water in which the quinces were boiled, and stew, closely covered, for an hour. Strain through a jelly-bag. Return this juice to the fire and slowly boil the quinces in it until they can be easily pierced with a steel fork. Boil only a few at a time, and when soft skim them out and lay them on a platter. When all the fruit has been thus cooked, add the sugar to the juice, and when dissolved return the quinces for a final cooking. The fruit must boil very slowly at least an hour, in order to take on the rich dark-red color so much desired. Sometimes this color may be obtained in a .shorter time, but the preserves must not be removed from the fire until it appears. Do not cook the fruit too long at the PRESERVES AND JAMS. 447 first boiling, as this will render it so tender that in the second boil- ing it will break ; and do not boil it entirely in the sugar, for this makes it tough and hard, and this condition will grow worse the longer the preserves are kept. Pack the quinces in jars and pour the syrup over them. Quiuce Preserves. — II. Pare and weigh the quinces according to the above directions, and allow only half a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit. Boil the fruit in the liquid derived from straining the boiled cores and pairings, as in the previous case, and when adding the sugar, also allow a pint of vinegar to every 4 pounds of sugar. Finish the same as in the foregoing recipe. To those who do not care for the mild and, to very many, the insipid flavor of the quince, the addition of the vinegar will prove an agreeable change. New cider is better than vinegar. Shred the rind of an orange and add for the flcivor. Quince and Sweet Apple Preserves. — Six pounds of quinces, 6 pounds of hard, mellow apples, and 9 pounds of sugar. Pare, quarter and core the fruit, and boil separately until half done, in enough water to cover it. Then take out with perforated skimmer. Add the sugar to the liquor, and boil until it is quite a syrup. Add the fruit and boil slowly until it can be pierced with a straw. Put fruit in jars in alternate layers, reaching to within a third of the top ; pour in the syrup, seal when cool. The parings, cores, and any surplus syrup may be used for making jelly. Quince Marmalade. — Ten pounds of fully ripe quinces, juice of 6 oranges and 7 ^4 pounds of sugar. Pare, core and slice the quinces, put the parings and cores in a kettle with 1 cup of water to each pound of fruit, and boil slowly until all the flavor is extracted. Strain off the water through a jelly bag, and put into it the quinces and juice from the oranges, which should be almost cold. Boil until the fruit is a perfectly soft, thick paste ; add the sugar and boil slowly 15 minutes more, stirring constantly. If it jellies on a cold plate, it is done. A great help is to peel, quarter and core quinces ; then run through the meat chopper before boiling. It boils into marmalade much sooner. Quince Cheese, or Jam. — Make as for marmalade and boil down until thick enough to cut with a knife. Put in jars (small), cover with paper, wet with brandy, and seal when cool. It can be turned 448 PRESERVES AND JAMS. out with the firmness of cheese, whence it takes its name, and cut into shces for luncheon or tea. Apples. Apple Preserves. — Mellow, tart apples are the best for preserv- ing. Pare, quarter and core, or remove the core and leave the apple whole, as preferred. Allow three-fourths of a pound of sugar to 1 pound of apples. Allow 1 sliced lemon to each pound of fruit. Boil the parings in water for 15 minutes, allowing 1 pint to each pound of fruit. Strain, add the sugar, let boil, and when well skimmed and clear, add the apples and let boil until they are transparent. Add the lemon just before canning, or flavor with bruised ginger root, tied in a cloth, and boiled in the syrup. Pack the fruit in jars and pour the boiling syrup in until full. Seal at once. Apple Marmalade. — Pare and core mellow apples, cut in pieces, adding three-fourths of a pound of sugar for each pound of apples. Boil over a slow fire until reduced to a fine pulp. A few cloves may be added, or a few pieces of stick cinnamon. Some cooks cut up 1 large quince and add to the apples for the flavor. Put in jell}- jars in a cool place. Ginger Apples. — Weigh equal quantities of good sour apples and sugar. Pare, core and chop the apples fine. Make a syrup of the sugar and add the apples, the grated peel of 2 or 3 lemons and a few pieces of white ginger. Boil until the apple looks clear and yellow. This resembles foreign sweetmeats. The ginger is essential to its pe- culiar excellence. This will keep for years. Best Apple Butter. — Make cider of sweet apples. Boil some of it dcwn the day it is made. Peel and core sweet apples and put in uncooked cider. Boil all day if necessary. Have the boiled cider hot in a kettle and thin the butter with it as needed. Have a long- handled paddle made of wood. Bore the blade with at least twelve auger-holes. Tie dry corn husks through the opening, and slir with this It keeps the apples from settling. The only apple butter. Apple Butter. — II. Boil down .3 gallons of best cider to one- fourth of the quantity, and pare and core as many mellow apples as the cider will cover. Divide the cider in 2 equal parts and put it in 2 kettles over the fire. Put the apples in one of the kettles, and as they boil down add gradually the cider from the second kettle, which PRESERVES AND JAMS. 449 should be kept on the back of the stove. Boil 12 hours, or until it is of a rich brown color and quite smooth ; then add ground cloves, cinnamon, allspice and brown sugar to suit the taste. It should have another good boiling after that, and should be stirred constantly to prevent its adhering to the sides and bottom of the kettle. When done it will adhere to an inverted plate. Put away in earthen crocks. Apple and Cranberry Preserves. — One quart of cranberries, 3 pints of sweet apples pared, cored and quartered; 2^< cups water, 2^^ cups of sugar, and cook until the cranberries begin to burst. Add the apples and boil slowly until it is soft. Citron Preserves. — Pare, cut into blocks, square or oblong ; boil in water with small piece of alum until tender; drain, allow three- quarters of a pound of sugar to each pound of citron and allow 2 lemons for every 5 pounds. Make a syrup of the sugar and water in proportion of a pint of sugar to a quart of water ; boil till clear, skim, add the lemons sliced very thin, seeded, and the citron ; cook till the citron is transparent. Crabapple Preserves. — Core the crabapples through the blossom end with a sharp pen-knife. Leave the stems on. Weigh the fruit and take pound for pound of white sugar, and 1 cupful of water to each pound of sugar. Put over a moderate fire, let dissolve and boil ; skim and drop the apples in. Let them boil gently until clear and the skins begin to break. Skim out; boil the syrup until thick; put the fruit in jars and pour the syrup over. Grapes. G-rape Preserves. — Pulp them, boil the pulps until soft enough to strain through a colander ; weigh the skins and pulps after the seeds are removed, adding sugar pound to pound; boil about 10 minutes, until the skins are sufficiently cooked. Or, take pound for pound of grapes, and white sugar. Stem the grapes, wash, and put in a preserving kettle in alternate layers with the sugar. Cook over a slow fire, stirring constantly; as the seeds rise, skim them off. Stew 1 hour, set aside to cool, and then put in jars, tying up closely. Grape Marmalade. — Pulp the grapes as for preserves given above. Put the pulps, after boiling, through a colander to free from seeds ; add the pulp and skins together, adding three-fourths of a pound of sugar to 1 pound of grapes. (The grapes must be weighed previous 29 450 PRESERVES AND JAMS. to beginning work.) Boil as for any other marmalade until of the proper thickness. Put up in bowls and cover with paper. Or, make of the strained pulps alone ; to a quart of the pulp allow a pint of sugar and boil 40 minutes. Grape Butter. — Pulp the grapes, put the skins in a bag, stew the pulps until the seeds can be removed by rubbing through a colander. To each pound of the pulp add 1 pound of sugar, half a pint of cider vinegar, half a teaspoonful of cloves, 1 teaspoonful of cinnamon and 1 teaspoonful of nutmeg. Boil this very slowly, putting in the bag of skins, tied securely. When it jellies by dropping in cold water it is done. Put away in jars. California Grape Preserves. — A delicious preserve can be made of California grapes. Cut each grape open with a knife and extract the seeds ; add sugar to the fruit, pound for pound; cook slowly for half an hour or longer until the syrup and pulp of the grape are per- fectly clear and transparent. Tomatoes. Tomato Preserves. — Take 7 pounds of small, sound, ripe toma- toes ; 7 pounds of white sugar, and juice of 3 lemons. Sprinkle the sugar over the tomatoes and let them stand together over night. In the morning drain off the syrup and boil it, skimming it often ; put in the tomatoes and boil them slowly for 30 minutes ; take out the toma- toes with a perforated skimmer and spread upon flat dishes ; boil the syrup down until it begins to thicken; add just before you take it from the fire the juice of 3 lemons. Put the tomatoes in jars and pour over them the hot syrup, and when cold seal or tie up with thick paper. A pound of raisins may be put with this amount of tomatoes ; put in 15 minutes before taking up ; half ounce of ginger-root is an improve- ment. If the tomatoes are large, cut in quarters and let drain. Pluin Tomato Preserves. — Seven pounds round yellow tomatoes peeled, 7 pounds sugar and juice of 3 lemons; let them stand to- gether over night. Drain off the syrup and boil it, skimming well ; then put in the tomatoes and boil gently 20 minutes. Tnke out the fruit with a skimmer, and spread on dishes. Boil the syrup down till it thickens, adding, just before you take it off the fire, the juice of the lemons. Put the fruit into jars and fill up with the hot syrup. When cold seal up. Ginger-root, three-fourths of an ounce, may be used PRESERVES AND JAMS. 451 with or in place of the lemons. A pound of raisins may be added also, but it is very nice without. Seal up hot. Tomato Fig-s. — Take yellow or red plum tomatoes (yellow are the firmest). Prepare as above, using three-fourths of a pound of sugar to one of fruit. Let stand over night. The next morning drain off the syrup; place over the fire and boil until clear; add the toma- toes, and to every 7 pounds of these 4 ounces of ginger-root tied in a muslin bag, the rind of 4 lemons which have been thinly pared and cooked for 10 minutes in water, and also the lemons, sliced thinly, with the white skin and seeds removed. Boil slowly for half an hour, lift out the fruit with a perforated skimmer and lay in the sun on shal- low dishes to harden while you boil down the syrup until thick. Put the fruit in jars, pour the syrup over and seal. Small green tomatoes may be treated in the same way, pricking the skins with a fork. Green Tomato Preserves. — Seven pounds sugar, 8 pounds small green tomatoes, juice of 4 lemons, one-half ounce mace, one-half ounce ginger. Make a syrup of the sugar with a little hot water and put it on to boil with the mace and ginger and lemon juice. Prick the tomatoes with a fork and put them into the boiling syrup. Boil until the fruit is clear. Skim the fruit out of the syrup and pack it in jars. Let the syrup boil until thick, then pour it over the fruit. If the tomatoes are large, cut them around in halves, and then quarter the halves. This shape is preferable to slices. This will keep with- out sealing, but it is better to put it in small jars, as it is so rich that only a little is wanted at a time. Tomato Marmalade. — To 2 pounds of tomatoes allow 2 pounds of sugar and the juice and grated rind of 1 lemon ; scald the toma- toes, take off the skins, mix the sugar with them and boil them slowly for an hour, skimming and stirring; add the juice and grated rind of the lemons, and boil another half hour, or till it is a thick, smooth mass. Tomato Butter. — One bushel ripe tomatoes, half bushel apples, 5 pounds brown sugar, 1 ounce allspice, 1 ounce cinnamon, 1 ounce cloves. Let it come to a boil. Add the apples peeled and cored. Let cook together, watching very carefully, more than half the day, then add the sugar. The juice must cook out of tbem, and it takes an entire day to cook properly. An hour before taking off add the spices. 452 PRESERVES AND JAMS. Melons. Watermelon Preserves. — Remove all the red part, pare the rinds, cut into 2-inch pieces and soak in weak alum water an hour. Some cooks soak over night in the alum water. Now boil in clear water, or steam until a fork pierces the pieces easily. Make a syrup of 1 pound of white sugar to a pound of fruit ; add enough water to keep from burning; skim. Add the juice of 1 lemon to every 3 pounds of fruit, and the peeled yellow rind of the lemon. Set back from the fire a moment while skimming; violently boiling liquid cannot be skimmed. Boil the rinds in this syrup 1 hour, or until perfectly clear. Remove the lemon peel ; pack the fruit in jars and fill up with the boiling syrup, and seal, or simply put in a jar and tie up when cold. One and a half pounds of sugar and 1 pound of fruit are used where the preserve is wished unusually fine. Some housewives exercise great skill in cutting the watermelon rind in fancy shapes. Where this is to be done leave the rind in large pieces to soak in the alum water; this toughens it slightly, and it is then time to do the artistic work. Great pains are taken with this in Virginia. Stars and cres- cents, rings, oak leaves, etc., can be easily formed, and the effect of the translucent gold and topaz forms through the crystal glass jars is beautiful. For leaves, take the leaf itself for a pattern, and trace its outline with an ivory point, and go over the veinings as well. Then with a sharp-pointed blade of a penknife cut out the shapes them- selves and cut deep into the veinings so that they will show plainly. The rings can be cut out with a cake cutter and the disks taken from the centre with a thimble. These disks make pretty balls to fill up spaces. Some cooks add ginger-root cut thin, and boil in the syrup. Muskmelon Preserves.— Take perfectly green muskmelons, as late in the season as possible. If preserved while the weather is very hot, they are apt to ferment. Scrape the outer skin off the rind. Cut them through the middle. Remove the seeds, and cut the melon in any shape preferred. Soak them in salt and water over night, then in clear water 4 or 5 hours, changing the water several times. Then soak in alum water an hour. Rinse and put over to cook in water enough to cover, with a handful of peach leaves (if convenient) to 5 pounds of melon, and a tablespoonful of ginger tied up in a cloth. The peach leaves turn the melon green, besides adding to its flavor. PRESERVES AND JAMS. 453 Boil the melons until you can pierce them with a straw. Make a syrup of white sugar, pound for pound. Add enough water to keep from burning. Let boil and skim. Put in the fruit and the ginger, and boil it in the syrup as long as can be done without breaking the rinds. If there is not enough syrup to cover, add a little water. When cold tie up in jars. In the course of a week pour off the syrup, scald and turn back over the fruit. Add sufficient essence of lemon to flavor it before turning back into jars. A fresh lemon may be sliced into jars when cold; 1 lemon to 2 or 3 pounds of the melon. Muskinelou Butter. — Take very ripe melons, so ripe as to be soft ; cut them open, take out the seeds, then scrape the melon from the rind with a knife, and to every 2 gallons of melon take 2^ pounds of brown sugar. Put in a kettle and boil the same as apple butter. Flavor while hot with lemon. Good. Pineapples. Pineapple Preserves. — Peel and slice, and allow a pound of white sugar to each pound of the sliced fruit. Put fruit and sugar in alternate layers in jars and let it stand 12 or 14 hours. Take out the fruit in the morning, add to the syrup 1 cupful of water for each 4 pounds of pineapple. Boil the syrup until it thickens, skim, let cool. Put in the fruit, return to fire and boil very gently until tender. Take it from the syrup and pack in jars, and turn the syrup over it. It can be sealed hot, or tied up in jars when cold. If there should be in this case the slightest signs of fermentation, turn off the syrup immediately, scald and turn I^ack on the fruit. Grated Pineapple Preserves. — Preserved pineapple has all of the delicious flavor of the fruit, and besides being useful in all ways that ordinary preserves are useful, it is supremely good for filling in layer cakes. Take pound for pound of sugar and fruit. Shred the pineapple with a silver fork, after the eyes have been removed, until nothing is left but. the core. The core itself is tough and stringy, but it holds juice, and might be cooked to extract this, and then removed. Put fruit and sugar together, and cook slowly half an hour. Pineapple Marmalade. — Take ripe, juicy pineapples ; pare, cut out the specks, and grate on a coarse grater all but the core. Weigh and allow a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit. Cook from 20 minutes to half an hour. 454 PRESERVES AND JAMS. Rhubarb. Rhubarb Jam. — Cut the rhubarb in pieces 1 inch long, take sugar pound for pound. Mix together and let stand all night. In the morning pour off the syrup and boil until it begins to thicken ; skim; add the rhubarb, and boil gently half an hour. Put up in tum- blers like jelly. It will keep a longtime. To each quart of rhubarb 1 lemon can be added for flavor; juice and the outside yellow rind cut in bits. This can be canned if wished. Rhubarb and Ginger Preserve. — Wash, peel and cut up a suffi- cient quantity of rhubarb, not too young. Weigh it, and to every pound of rhubarb allow three-quarters of a pound of sugar, which should be well crushed. Put all together in a large pan and let it stand all night, next day put it in a preserving pan with 1 pound of ginger-root, chipped up. Boil 1 hour. This makes an excellent preserve, the ginger giving it a nice flavor. Rhubarb and Fig- Jam. — Five pounds of rhubarb, 6 pounds of sugar ; cut the rhubarb in small pieces, sprinkle with the sugar, and let stand all night; chop pulp and peel of 3 lemons and 1 pound of figs quite fine ; add to the rhubarb ; boil several hours until quite thick ; put in jars same as jelly. Rhubarb Marmalade. — Peel 6 oranges, take away the white rinds and pips, slice the pulp and peel into a preserving kettle, cut very small; add a quart of rhubarb (finely cut), and from 1 to 1^ pounds of sugar. Boil down, same as for other preserves. Excellent. Plums. Phmi Preserves. — Select small purple plums, and be sure they are sound and not too ripe. Remove the stems, wash the fruit, and pierce each plum with a fork. Put into the kettle a cupful of water to every 6 pounds of fruit, and allow a pound of sugar for every pound of fruit. Place plums and sugar in the kettle in alternate layers, and boil slowly. The fruit must be closely watched, as it is apt to go to pieces in boiling. After it has boiled a short time remove from the kettle, and boil down the syrup. Plum preserves may be safely kept in a .stone jar. Four quarts of plums make P> quart jars of preserves. Plum Preserves. — II. The following rule is equally good for either damson or green-gage plums, the damsons being particularly PRESERVES AND JAMS. 455 nice to eat with meats. Make the syrup for all the plums to be pre- served at one time, allowing a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit, and a gill of water to a pound of sugar. Boil for 10 minutes; then put in the syrup only enough plums to fill 2 or 3 jars. Cook until they can easily be pierced with a straw ; then can, and put fresh fruit into the boiling s\'rup. If there is any syrup left over from preserv- ing the plums, put in enough sugar to make it jell, and cook a little longer. This makes a delicious jelly. Eg"g" Plum Preserves. — Pour boiling water over them, cover, and let them steam ; uncover and pour water off; rub the skins off, throw them away, weigh the fruit and put in a stone jar. Make a syrup, allowing 1 pound of white sugar and half a teacupful of water to each pound of fruit; let the sugar boil, then skim, pour the syrup over the plums and set them away. Next morning put all in a kettle and cook slowly 10 or 15 minutes; return the fruit and juice to the jar and let stand until cold ; then fit a piece of white paper close over the fruit, cover the jar with a double cloth, then with several thick- nesses of paper, and keep in dark, cool place. Pliiiu Jam. — Put the fruit, slightly broken, over the fire with- out any sugar. Set in a jar in a kettle of boiling water. It must be ripe and perfect — nothing else is fit to use. When it gets soft, re- move it from the fire, take out all the pits, break them with a ham- mer, and tie the broken shells, kernels and all, in a bit of old muslin. Put the fruit on again, adding a pound of sugar for each pound of fruit, after the pits have been removed. Drop in the bag of shells. Simmer for an hour, when it should be ready for putting into the jars. Plum Marmalade. — Scald and remove the skin of ripe plums ; take out the pits ; allow 1 pound of sugar to each pound of fruit; mix the sugar and let it stand half an hour, then cool ; boil 20 minutes, then pour in small dishes and let stand to harden. Seal in glasses. Plum Butter. — Scald the plums until they crack open ; when cool, put them through a colander; measure the plums thus pre- pared, and add three-fourths the quantity of sugar ; season with any desired spice. Boil well 3 hours, and it will not require sealing. Plum Butter. — II. Plum butter is a pleasant accompaniment to cold meats, and is made as follows : Cook together until soft 4 quarts of plums previously scalded in soda water, and 4 quarts of crab- apples, with sufficient water to cover them. Press through a colander. 456 PRESERVES AND JAMS. and allow 1 quart of sugar to 3 pints of the ]:)ulp. Add atablespoon- ful of cinnamon, a saltspoonful of cloves, and half a teacupful of good cider vinegar. Cook until thick and rich, stirring often to jDrevent its scorching. Braiulied Plums. — Make plum preserves by the second or third rule here given, add 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy to each quart can of fruit. Pack the fruit in cans and fill up with syrup. Cherries. Cherry Preserves. — Make a syrup, using pound for pound of sugar. Moisten the sugar with the juice of the cherries. Let this syrup come to a boil ; skim. Put in the fruit. Let boil until tender. Skim out care- fully, put in glass or stone jars, filling about two-thirds full. Boil down the syrup and fill the jars up with it. Cherry Marmalade. — Seed the fruit, add pound for pound of sugar. Boil gently, stir- ring and beating to make smooth. When done, put up in glasses like jelly. Braiidied Cherries. — Make a syrup of a pound of sugar and half a gill of water for every 2 pounds of fruit. Heat to boiling, stirring to prevent burning, pour over the fruit while warm, not hot. Let them stand together an hour. Put all into a preserving kettle and heat slowly, boil 5 minutes, take out with a perforated skimmer and boil the syrup 20 minutes. Add one- half pint brandy to the syrup for every 5 pounds of fruit, and pour over the cherries hot and seal. Cherry Stoner. Oranges. Orange Preserves. — Take equal weights of tart oranges and sugar. Grate the yellow rind from one-fourth of the oranges; cut all the fruit in halves. Pick out the pulp and free it from seeds. Drain off as much juice as you conveniently can, and put it on to boil with the sugar. Let it come to a boil, skim and simmer for 15 minutes, then put in the pulp and the grated rind and boil for 15 minutes longer. Put into glass tumblers or jars and seal the same as PRESERVES AND JAMS. 457 fruit jelly. Always put the preserves into tumblers or small jars, thereby doing away with the necessity of disturbing a larger quantity than is needed. Orang-e Marmalade. — English people always have marmalade of some description upon their breakfast table. Weigh the fruit before cutting it and allow three-quarters of a pound of granulated sugar to a pound of fruit. Allow the rind and juice of 3 lemons to a dozen oranges. Remove the peel in quarters and boil it in plenty of water until it is tender ; drain off the water and let the peel cool. Remove the seeds and white skin from the pulp, place the pulp in a porcelain kettle with the sugar, and cook until it is quite thick. When the peel is cool place a number of pieces together and with a sharp knife cut them into thin shreds. When all are cut, add them to the cooked orange and mix thoroughly. Cool a little of the mixture in a saucer, and when it is as thick as required pour into jelly glasses. When it is cold, cover. Lemoii Marmalade. — Six lemons sliced very thin, taking out the seeds. To each pound of sliced fruit add 3 pints of cold water ; let this stand 24 hours. Then boil it until the chips are tender, pour into an earthen bowl and allow it to remain until next day. Then weigh it, and to every pound of boiled fruit add 1^ pounds of loaf sugar. Boil together till the syrup jellies and the chips are transparent. Berries. Blackberry Preserves. — Put the berries in a porcelain kettle, al- lowing a cupful of water to each quart of the fruit, and let it simmer till tender. Then add three-quarters of a pound of sugar to each pound of berries, let it boil up, skim carefully, and it is ready for the cans. Blackberry Jam. — Three-fourths of a pound of sugar to a pound of berries. Rinse the fruit and put in the preserving kettle, stir con- stantly until part of the juice is evaporated, then add the sugar and simmer to a fine jam. This will be found better than putting the sugar in first; the seeds are not as hard in this case. A pint of cur- rant juice to every 5 pounds is an improvement to the flavor. Pour in glasses ; dip white paper in brandy and lay on the jam. Then seal with paper like jelly. The brandied paper is not absolutely neces- sary. Mark the jars on outside as to what the contents are. 458 PRESERVES AND JAMS. Braiuliod Blaokberries. — For bran died blackberries, make a syrup of half a teacup of blackberry juice to a pound of sugar. Al- low a half pound of sugar to every pound of fruit. Let the syrup boil up. Add the blackberries to the syrup ; let them cook rapidly for about 20 minutes. Remove them from the fire, add one-half cup- ful brandy to each quart, and bottle them. Very healthful in the summer. Raspberry Jam. — Make precisely like Blackberry Jam. Use either black or red raspberries. Red Raspberries isi Currant Jelly. — A new and attractive con- serve. Take equal quantities of red raspberries and red currants. Heat the currants on the stems in a porcelain kettle, bruising a few to start the juice ; then squeeze a few at a time through a clolh strainer till the juice is extracted. Measure the juice, and for every pint put in the oven 2 teacupfuls of granulated sugar. Boil the juice 10 min- utes, then add the raspberries, and at the end of 20 minutes, the sugar. Let the mixture boil from 3 to 5 minutes, then turn into cups or bowls. Raspberry Preserves. — Make same as Blackberry Preserves, Strawberry Preserves. — Pound for pound ; rinse the berries, and put with sugar in a preserving kettle over a slow fire until the sugar melts. Boil rapidly 25 minutes. Take out the fruit with a skimmer, and fill cans two-thirds full. Boil the syrup a few minutes longer; skim ; fill up the jars. Seal hot and keep in a cool, dry place. Strawberry Jam — Make same as raspberry jam, omitting the currant juice ; use white sugar. Strawberries are the first fruit to be put up, and as they have the entire heated term to go through, must be carefully watched. Whole Gooseberry Preserves. — For every quart of gooseberries take 1 pound of granulated sugar, and dissolve it in the preserving kettle with as much water as it will take to make a syrup. Let it boil for 20 minutes, skimming well ; then put in the gooseberries, and boil 5 minutes; then set by till the next day, when boil again until they have a clear look and the syrup is thick. Put up in jelly glasses, with brandied paper on top. Gooseberry Jam. — Pick the gooseberries just as they begin to turn. Stem, wash and weigh. To 4 pounds of fruit add half a tea- cup of water; boil until soft, and add 4 pounds of sugar and boil until clear. If packed at the right stage the jam will be amber- PRESERVES AND JAMS. 459 colored and firm, and very much nicer than if the fruit is preserved when ripe. Barberry Preserves. — Take ripe barberries, leaving them on the stem. Make a pound for pound syrup, putting in half cupful of water to each pound of sugar ; let boil up and skim. Drop in the barberries, letting the syrup cool partially fir.'^t. Boil until thoroughly penetrated by the syrup. Tie up in glass jars. A very ornamental preserve. Preserved barberries mixed with cold water forms a re- freshing drink, and is especially good in fevers. Barberry Jam. — Free the berries from stems and allow an equal weight of sugar. Put them in the preserving kettle with just water enough to cover. Let them cook slowly, and when the juice is drawn out, add the sugar and simmer, stirring often. Turn into small jars and cover with paper. If the seeds are objectionable, the jam should be strained before adding the sugar. Preserved Huckleberries (for Pies). — Use firm, large, ripe fruit, picking over carefully. Put them in a large stone jar and cover them with good, sound molasses. Set them in a cold place in the cellar, seal them up, and do not disturb till cold weather, when they may be opened and the berries used from time to time, being kept under the simple earthen cover of the jar. A cup of vinegar to a quart of molasses is certainly an addition. Pies made from huckleberries put up in this way are a great deal better than those made from dried fruit or fruit canned in a more elaborate way. Drain from the mo- lasses before using. Huckleberry Preserves. — Two gallons of berries picked from the stems ; 5 pounds of sugar; 1 pint of strong vinegar. Stew down thick. They will keep without canning. Elderberry Preserves. — Make same as huckleberry preserves. Very healthful. Cranberry Preserves. — Take pound for pound of fruit and sugar. Put a little water in the bottom of the preserving kettle and boil until tender. Currant Preserves. — Make same as raspberry preserves. Use pound for pound, boiling a little longer. Currant Jam (Red or White). — Make same as blackberry jam. For white currants use pound for pound of pulverized sugar. Stir and mash frequently. Seal hot, if wished. 460 PRESERVES AND JAMS. Cnrraut and liaisin Juiii. — Take 3 pounds of sugar, 1 pound of raisins, 8)2 pounds of currants, 1 orange and 1 pint of water. Cut the raisins in two and seed them, then cook them for 1 hour or more in the pint of water. Pick over the currants, and put them on to cook in the preserving kettle. Add the orange juice and cook for 15 minutes after the fruit begins to boil. Remove the seeds from the orange, and after chopping the pulp and peel very fine, rub through the sugar. When the currants have been boiling for 15 minutes, add the other ingredients to them and cook for 15 minutes longer. Put into jelly glasses, and when cold cover. This quantity will fill 12 glasses. Raisiu Jam. — Wash and seed 1 pound of large sweet raisins ; put them on to cook with half a pound of sugar, 1 cup of water and half a grated nutmeg. Cook until thick ; when cold it is ready to seal. Sweet Potato Preserves. — Make syrup as for peaches. Parboil the potatoes, first cutting in round slices, and boil in syrup until clear. Tiitti Frutti Preserves. — Put a quart of brandy in a two-gallon jar ; then, as they come into market, add 1 pint bowl of strawberries and the same of sugar ; then cherries in the same way, and black- berries, peaches, pears, currants, pineapples, bananas, oranges ; one- half pint of lemons and 1 pint of sugar. Remember to always put in the sugar every time you put in the fruit, and stir well from the bot- tom of the jar. A double quantity of peaches may be added, if de- sired. Keep in a cool place, well covered. Do not mash berries or fruit. Prepare large fruit as for preserves, quartering, peeling. Add, if possible, 1 bowl of black cherries to improve the color. Ready in a week after last fruit is put in. Cnciiinbev Preserves. — Gather young cucumbers a little longer than your middle finger, and lay in strong brine 1 week. Wash them, and soak them 1 day and night in fair water, changing this 4 times. Line a bell-metal kettle with vine leaves, lay in the cucum- bers, with a little alum scattered among them ; fill up with clear water, cover with vine leaves, then with a close lid, and green, as for pickles. Do not let them boil. W'hen well greened, drop in ice water. When perfectly cold, wipe, and with a small knife slit down one side ; dig out the seeds ; stuff with a mixture of chopped raisins PRESERVES AND JAMS. 461 and citron ; sew up the incision with fine thread. Weigh them, and make a syrup, allowing a pound of sugar for every one of cucumbers, with a pint of water. Heat to a lively boil, skim, and drop in the fruit. Simmer half an hour, take out, spread upon a dish in the sun, while you boil down the syrup, with a few slices of ginger root added. When thick, put in the cucumbers again, simmer 5 minutes, and put in glass jars, tying them up when cold. An odd, and also a singu- larly delicious sweetmeat. Fig- Preserves. — Take the weight in sugar of the quantity of figs to be preserved ; the figs must be ripe. Cover the figs with cold water for 12 hours; then simmer in water enough to cover them until tender, and spread out upon a sieve to cool and harden. Make a syrup of the sugar, a cup of cold water being allowed for every pound. Boil until clear of scum, put in the figs, and simmer for 10 minutes. Take them out and spread upon the dishes in the sun. Add the lemons and the ginger ; boil the syrup thick, give the figs another boil of 1 5 minutes, and fill the jars three-quarters of the way up to the top. Then fill up with boiling syrup, cover, and when cold, seal up. Prune Preserves. — Pour boiling water on the prunes, and set where they will keep warm. When swelled to the original size, put to each pound of the prunes one-half pound of brown sugar, and 1 stick of cinnamon. If there is not enough water remaining to cover the prunes, add more, and stew in this syrup one-fourth of an hour. Squeeze in the juice of half a lemon to every 3 pounds of prunes. Do this just before removing from the fire. Pit the prunes. Preserved Walnuts and Prunes. — Shell 24 walnuts, divide them into halves. Take 1 pound of prunes, soak over night, and remove the stones. Save the water in which they have been soaked, to which add 1 cup of sugar. Boil for a moment and skim. Then add the walnuts and prunes. Cover, and stand on the back part of the stove for at least 30 minutes, until the syrup is thick and dark, the prunes tender, and the walnuts soft. Serve cold, as other preserves. Apricot Preserves. — Pare the apricots, which should be ripe, as thinly as possible, break them in half, and remove the stones; weigh the fruit, and to every pound allow the same of sugar; strew it over the apricots, which should be placed on dishes and allowed to remain for 12 hours ; break the stones, blanch the kernels, and put them with 462 PRESERVES AND JAMS. the fruit and sugar in a preserving pan ; let simmer very gently for about three-quarters of an hour ; take out the pieces of apricot, boil this syrup a little longer, and as fast as the scum arises remove it; put the apricots into jars, pour over them the syrup and kernels, and cover in the usual way. Pumpkin Preserves. — Divide, peel, and remove the seeds ; cut in small, square pieces. For each pound of the pumpkin to be pre- served, take 1 pound of pulverized or granulated sugar. Put the })umpkin in a deep dish with alternate layers of sugar sprinkled thickly over the top. Pour in lemon juice, one-half cupful to 1 pound of pumpkin. Let stand 24 hours. Then boil the whole together, with one-half pint of water to every 3 pounds of pumpkin, 1 table- spoonful of ginger, tied in a cloth, and the peel of the lemons shred- ded. When the pumpkin is tender, put in jars. In a few days pour off the syrup, boil up, and pour over the pumpkin hot. Very nice. Vinegar may be substituted for the lemon juice, in which case a lemon may be sliced in the preserves when cold. Preserved Squash. — First peel the squash and cut it in pieces an inch thick and 4 inches long. Put it over the fire with cold water till it comes to a boil, and let it boil a k\v minutes. Then turn off the water and put a piece of cinnamon and a clove in each piece, and then put the squash in stone jars. Then boil a quart of vinegar, a pint of water and 2 pounds of sugar together and put this brine, boiling, over the squash. Then turn off the brine three days in suc- cession and boil it over again and put it boiling over the squash, same as the first time. Then when cold put it in glass jars. Persiiuiuoii Preserves. — Select firm, ripe persimmons, and take the equivalent of their weight in sugar. Let the persimmons lie in cold water for 12 hours. Put them on the fire in enough water to cover them and stew gently until tender. Remove, drain and spread them out to become cool and firm. Make a syrup by adding a cup- ful of cold water to every pound of sugar and boiling until clear, skimming constantly. When clear, put in the persimmons and cook 10 minutes. Take them out, spread again upon dishes and set these in the sun. Add the juice and peel of a couple of lemons to the syrup, boil it thick, return the persimmons to it, cook 20 minutes more, pour into glass jars. Seal when cold. PRESERVES AND JAMS. 463 Fruits Dried in Sugar. Fig-g-ed Peaches. — Pare, halve and seed them ; then boil, until tender, in water just sufficient to cover them, as many of the halves as will lie comfortably on the bottom of a preserving kettle — they must not crowd nor boil too long nor hard, for fear of tearing apart or becoming over soft. Sprinkle them with plenty of sugar while boiling. When tender put the peaches on platters and set them out in the sun to remain until they are thoroughly dried and figged, then pack away in jars or boxes, with sugar sprinkled between each layer. Peacli Leather. — To each pound of ripe peaches allow one-fourth pound of granulated sugar, wipe, but do not pare the peaches, remove the stones, add the sugar and cook slowly, stirring and mashing all the while until dry enough to spread in thin sheets on oiled paper on boards, or well- greased brown paper. Have the sheet not over one- sixteenth of an inch thick. Stand in the sun to dry, and when dry lift like a sheet of leather, put it on a baking-board and with a rolling- pin roll lightly until it is perfectly even. Now roll it up as you would a roll of noodles. Wrap it in wax paper, put away in a tin box, and when ready to use cut thin slices from the end, allowing it to remain in the roll. A nice addition to after-dinner sweets. Dried Peaches. — Halve the fruit, remove the stones, fill the cavi- ties with white sugar and dry in a moderate oven. The fruit, if first- class peaches are used, will be found delicious, almost equal when stewed to preserves, and far more healthful and economical. Dried Plums. — Plums may be dried with the stones in, to retain the full plum flavor, or the pits may be removed and the cavities filled with sugar. Put them on plates in the sun, sprinkling with sugar and turning often. The finish may be made in a cool oven. Dried Peaches, Plums and Apples. — Pit, peel and cut to suit; dry partly and then pack them in jars, spreading sugar thickly be- tween the layers. Tie down and they will keep well and be delicious for pies or sauce. They may also be dried without sugar. Tomato Figs. — Allow half a pound of coffee-sugar to every pound of tomatoes. The yellow plum tomatoes, or the very small and per- fectly smooth red ones, are preferred for this method of preserving. Put the sugar on the stove with just water enough to melt it. As soon as it boils, put the tomatoes in whole with the skins on. Draw 464 PRESERVES AND JAMS. the kettle back where they will simmer gently. Cook until trans- parent, about 2 hours. Skim them out carefully, and drain off all the syrup. Spread them on platters to dry, in the sun, if possible. Sprinkle a little sugar over them while drying, and the next day turn them, and sprinkle again with sugar. Do so for 2 or 3 days. When suffi- ciently dry, pack in boxes. Seven pounds of tomatoes will make 2 quarts of figs. Home-iiuide Citron. — Take watermelon rind, trim off the green outside, cut in thin slices and stew with an equal quantity of sugar, cooking until the syrup thickens. Then dry on plates in the sun or moderate oven. Keep in close jar. Bottle the syrup, and use for flavoring. Use in fruit cake same as citron. Dried Gooseberries. — To 7 pounds of red gooseberries add 1 ^ pounds of sugar. Let them stand over night, or 24 hours, mixed with the sugar. Then scald until they break. Dried Currauts, Blackberries, Raspberries and Cherries. — Dry in the same manner as gooseberries. Use more sugar if desired. Cherries can be dried without sugar. Dried Pumpkin. — Prepare a large kettleful as for stewing. Let boil briskly until all the water has evaporated, then let boil slowly, stirring often until very dry and beginning to brown .slightly. Put on plates in a moderate oven to dry. Hang up in a close tied paper bag. When wanted for use take a piece the size of an egg and put it in a quart of warm milk over night. Pineapple Chips. — Select large, perfectly souitd pines; pare them and cut into very thin slices. Weigh and allow 1 pound of sugar to each pound of pineapple. Put these slices on platters and strew over the sugar. Stand them in a warm place (like a drying closet) for a week. Turn the fruit every day until dry. Now put them in a hot oven for 10 minutes. When cool put them away in tin boxes with waxed pa]:ier between. This will keep all winter. Orange Chips. — Cut the oranges in quarters and carefully squeeze all juice through a sieve. Soak the peel in water, and the next day boil until tender. Drain and slice the peel, put it into the juice, weigh as much sugar and put all together into a broad earthen dish. Place over the fire at a moderate distance, often stirring till the chip- candy and then put them in a cold room to dry. They will be sufficiently dry in three weeks. Jellies may be covered with waxed paper, brandied paper or more readily and efficiently by pouring over the top of the jelly, when quite cold, enough melted paraffin to exclude the air. This hardens at once, may be readily removed when the jelly is to be used and is capable of being re-used for an indefinite number of times. Any cheap paper may then be put over the top of the tumbler or jar to protect from dust. The paraffin is a clear white wax, odorless and tasteless, perfectly pure and harmless in every way. Egg paper, or white paper dipped in the whites of egg, is very good. Use one or more of these. It not only excludes the air, but at the same time it cements itself to the glass. Put a small rubber band around the paper to hold in place until dry. Keep all preserves, jellies and canned fruits in a cool, dark, dry place. The fruits most commonly used for jelly are strawberries, cur- rants, apples, peaches, crabapples, quinces and raspberries. Of these, crabapple and quince jelly most easily ; strawberries and raspberries are the hardest to manage. If you find jellies are becoming candied, put a layer of pulverized sugar a quarter of an inch deep on the top, under the paper, and it will keep in good condition for years. Jelly may be prevented from moulding by the same process. Any fruit jelly may be easily removed from the mould by setting it in water as hot as your hand will bear for a few minutes. The jelly looks much bet- ter when turned out in this way. A rose geranium leaf dropped in the jelly glass before pouring in hot apple jelly, will lend a delicious and unusual flavor to what is a rather tasteless compound. The leaf will soon float to the top, but let it remain till the jelly is wanted for use. Still another flavor may be obtained by using lemon verbena leaves in the same wa}^ Serviceable jelly glasses may be made of bottles. Take a good strong string (one-third of a clothes line after it is untwisted will do), dip in kerosene, and tie around the bottle where you want it to break. Light, and as it burns the glass will break. 30 465 466 JELLIES. For good jelly, the fruit must be quite fresh, not over-ripe or under-ripe, first because it will not easily jelly under those circum- stances, and is, if under-ripe, too acid to give a pleasant taste. Neither should the fruit be gathered immediately after a rain. Jelly should never stop boiling until done. Strawberry jelly may be made in small quantities when there is too much juice left from canning them. Jelly, if wanted very clear, may be strained before putting in glasses. Use a flannel bag, make it pointed in shape. Let drip slowly through and do not squeeze or stir. Hang the bag near the stove, as this will prevent the jelly thickening. Another way to seal up jellies or w"^ jams is by using a paste made by stir- ring 1 teaspoonful of flour in 2 of cold water ; when mixed perfectly smooth and free from lumps, add more cold water until it is so thin that it runs freely. Cut thin brown paper round and an inch larger than the top of the glass or jar; dip it in the paste until Jelly Moulds. -^g^- thoroughly, then put over the glass or jar, pressing it down tightly ; when dry it will be entirely air-tight and the fruit will keep perfectly. A rubber ring will hold it in place while drying. Before fruit is set away it should be labeled. The name written in ink on white paper and pasted on the side of the glass, jar or can is most convenient. Five drops of glycerine added to each ounce of flour paste used for putting the labels on glass or tin will make them adhere and effectually prevent them from curling up and coming off. General Kule for Jellies. — The requisites for jelly-making are a good quality stone jar, capable of containing, say 2 gallons of fruit ; a large pan, in which the jar can stand upon the range ; an earthen dish of large size, into which the fruit juice may drip; two long- handled wooden spoons, a coarse cloth jelly bag, which is best made of loosely woven white flannel of good quality ; several shallow tins, in which to heat the sugar in the oven, and a full assortment of jelly glasses. JELLIES. 467 First (these are the rules for making currant jelly) currants should be washed and stemmed. Put the fruit in the stone jar, crush it with a potato-masher, set the jar, covered, in the large pan of water. Have a very hot fire in the range. Let the water boil until the fruit is re- duced to a pulp. Put the fruit by cupfuls in the jelly bag (or a coarse towel will answer). Close the bag and press out the juice into the earthen dish with the wooden spoon. Another excellent way of getting the juice out of the bag is to suspend the latter from a hook in some convenient shelf, and then to squeeze the bag between two spoons. When two or three portions of pulp have been handled, the bag should be turned inside out and the juiceless pulp thrown away, as otherwise the bag will get clogged and the juice will cease to flow freely. Measure the juice and put in a stone jar, or a preserving kettle. To each pint of juice allow a pound of sugar, and while the juice is boiling measure out the sugar into several different portions, putting it into the shallow tins and placing these tins within the oven to heat. Stir the sugar occasionally to prevent scorching, and line the tins with light-brown paper. The juice should be boiled 20 minutes — 20 minutes from the time it com- mences to boil. Skim thoroughly and add the heated sugar by cup- fuls, stirring constantly. Then let it come to a boil and remove from the range. Fill the jelly glasses full and allow the jelly to cool be- fore sealing. If the jelly does not set at once, stand the glasses in a sunny window. Blackberry, strawberry, raspberry, cherry, grape and cranberry jellies are made in exactly the same way — a pint of juice to a pound of sugar, and the fruits boiled to a pulp and strained through a bag. Blackberry, grape and cranberry need nothing but their own flavors, but in the case of strawberry, raspberry and cherry, some slight ad- dition is needed. With the strawberry the juice of 1 lemon should be added for each pint of the strawberry juice. This lemon juice should be put in just after straining and before the strawberry juice is boiled. For cherry jelly the same quantity of lemon is necessary. For raspberry, add one-third the quantity of currant juice, prepared in precisely the same manner. Sweet apples will not jelly. Apple Jelly. — For this use tart, juicy apples, wiping them with a damp cloth. Quarter the fruit and cut away all defective parts, but neither peel nor core them, Place the apples in a preserving kettle 468 JELLIES. and almost cover them with cold water. Let them stew to a pulp. Turn into a cheese-cloth bag and hang this over an earthenware bowl for several hours — all night, if convenient. Measure the juice, return it to the preserving kettle and heat it ; skim. Boil the juice 5 min- utes, and then to every pint of liquid add three-fourths of a pound of sugar that has been heated in the oven. When the sugar is melted try the jelly by dropping a little on a cold dish. If it congeals it is ready to mould ; if not, boil and try again until it is of proper con- sistency, when it may be turned into bowls and sealed. For dessert turn it into a pudding dish and pour cold boiled custard or sweetened whipped cream about it. The pulp, stewed with white sugar, can be used for jam puddings, or is very nice put into a glass dish, covered thickly with sugar, then a layer of thinly-sliced sponge cake, and a nice custard poured over all. The juice of half a dozen lemons to 1 peck of apples gives a delicious flavor to the jelly. Even 3 lemons to the same amount of apples is a great improvement. Be careful not to squeeze the pulp, or the jelly will not be as clear as it otherwise would be. Red Apple Jelly. — A beautiful jelly can be made of red apples by washing and halving the apples, but not paring or coring them. Cidei- Apple Jelly. — Take apples ; wipe and slice them ; use seeds, skins and all ; cook soft in cider enough to cover them ; strain through cloth laid in sieve; add a pound of sugar to pint of juice and boil up a few minutes. Ecouoniieal Apple Jelly. — In large families, when paring apples for pies or sauce, wash the apples beforehand, and then take the par- ings and the perfect cores, put into a saucepan, fill with water just to cover them and let boil half or three-quarters of an hour ; then strain; add as much sugar as juice and boil it fast for 20 minutes. Add a little vinegar or lemon juice for flavoring ; put in glasses, and the result will be a nice, inexpensive jelly, especially useful where there are children and lunches to put up. Quince Jelly. — Peel, quarter and core the quinces, cover with cold water and cook to a pulp. Put in a jelly bag and let it drip through, but do not squeeze; measure the juice, put on a fire and boil 20 minutes. Then, adding a pound of sugar to every pint, let boil 2 or 3 minutes. First, heat the sugar. Take up in glasses, cover and set in a cool, dry place. In making quince jelly be sure and re- JELLIES. 469 move the seeds from the fruit, or the jelly will be ropy. Take the pulp left in the jelly bag and squeeze out all the juice. Put 1 large cupful df sugar to each pint of the juice. Boil and skim. Put in glasses. It will be good jelly, but not clear as the first. Or the pulp may be made into a marmalade by adding one-half pound of sugar to each pound of the fruit pulp. Boil it down until thick and smooth. Quince and Apple Jelly. — Cut small and core an equal amount of tart apples and quinces. Boil the quinces until soft in water enough to cover them. Then add the apples and boil together, adding more water if needed, until all is a pulp. Put in a jelly-bag and strain without pressing. Boil 15 or 20 minutes, and to each pint of liquid add 1 pound of sugar and boil 5 minutes, or until it will " set " or jelly when a little is dropped on a cold plate. Ripe Grape Jelly. — Stem, wash, put in a stone jar, stand the jar in a kettle of boiling water, and boil until the gi'apes are soft. Strain through a jelly-bag. Allow granulated sugar pound for pound, boil 20 or o() minutes, add the sugar, which should have been heated, and boil 5 minutes longer. Pour in glasses. Seal when cold. Grape and Apple Jelly. — Stem the grapes, and prepare for straining as above. At the same time quarter and core, but not pare, juicy, tart apples. Cook and press out the juice, same as for apple jelly. When the juice has been expressed from both apples and grapes, take one-third apple juice to two-thirds grape juice. Boil two quarts only of this mixture at a time. Twenty miuutes from the time the juice begins to boil, add gradually 8 teacupfuls of granulated sugar, which was heating in a very hot oven while the juice was boiling. Boil 5 minutes, then pour into jelly-cups. Seal when cold. Mild grapes make a delicious jelly. Green Grape Jelly. — Pick the grapes from the stems and put them into a jar that holds about 2 quarts and a pint of cold water. Place this jar in a vessel of boiling water, and leave until the fruit is thoroughly scalded. Mash the fruit with a potato masher while scalding, to extract the juice faster. Let strain through a flannel jelly-bag. Measure the juice, and allow a pound of sugar to every pint of juice. Put the juice over the fire to boil in a porcelain-lined kettle and the sugar in the oven to heat. Stir the sugar and the juice occasionally. When the juice has boiled down 20 minutes, add the 470 JELLIES. Melon Mould. sugar, and after one moment's boiling the jelly should be ready to put into bowls. Test it by cooling a little on ice, and if it has not "come," boil it a moment or two longer. If the grapes are gathered at exactly the right time, this jelly will not have a tinge of purple about it ; if it is not already the right color, it may be made the exact color of the Malaga grape by a few drops of spinach green added just before the jelly is ready for the bowls and after the color has been tested. By putting in a handful of ri2:)e fruit, it will make it a delicate pink color. This green-grape jelly can be made from the cultivated varieties, but the wild grape is best of all, especially the wild fox grape. Siberian Crabapple Jelly. — Remove the stems and blossom- ends. Cut out any defects, and put over to boil, with just enough water to cover. Stew slowly until almost a pulp. Strain and squeeze very lightly. The best way is to put in a jelly bag and let drip over an earthen dish all night. In the morning boil the juice 20 minutes, skim, measure, and then add 1 pound of sugar to 1 pint of the juice. Let boil 3 or 5 minutes, and put in glasses. Heat the sugar before using. This is a jelly that never fails. It is excellent for cake and to serve with desserts, but it is not as suitable to serve with meats as are red and black currant, damson and barberry jellies. Spiced Crabapple Jelly. — To 5 pounds of apples 1 pint of water, 1 pint of vinegar, 1 tablespoon of all kinds of spices ; whole cloves and stick cinnamon are better than ground; stew 5 or 6 hours, then let it stand over night; then strain and add as much sugar as juice. Boil 30 minutes. Currant Jelly. — See " General Rule for Jellies." For straining the fruit in the jelly-bag, the simplest and easiest way is to reverse a common four-legged stool, take a good-sized square piece of flannel, secure firmly the four corners to the four legs, allowing considerable dip in the centre, and stand a clean earthenware bowl below this bag, on the inverted seat. Put well-mashed fruit into this, and leave it out of Jelly Mould. JELLIES. 471 harm's way for the juice to drain through. Do not attempt to squeeze it, or you will cloud your jelly; keep your " squeezings " for a jelly of second quality. Some cooks simply pick over the currants care- fully, not even stemming them (wash if gritty), mash with a potato masher, and then strain all night in a flannel bag. Uncooked Currant Jelly. — Prepare the fruit as above, mashing and straining the fruit raw. Put the juice in a stone jar, add granu- lated sugar in the proportion of pound for pound, with the juice, stirring constantly until the sugar is completely dissolved. Dip out or strain into tumblers ; let stand until it stiffens, and cover with egg- paper. A very nice way. White Currant Jelly. — Make as above, straining, not squeezing the fruit, to prevent discoloration of the juice. Proceed same as for Uncooked Jelly. Seal up with egg-paper. In several weeks the jelly will harden perfectly and be very clear. Blackberry Jelly. — Use fruit picked before it is dead ripe. Part of it should be red. Make the jelly precisely the same as currant jelly, except that three-fourths of a pound of sugar is sufficient for 1 pint of juice. Blackberry Table Jelly. — Stew the berries, crush, and strain out the juice, as above. After it is cool, soak 1 box of gelatine in a pint of juice, sweeten to the taste, add a quart of boiling water, and strain into moulds. It is served with whipped cream, is very pleasing in appearance, and delicious to the taste, but is not especially nutritive. Raspberry and Currant Jelly. — A jelly much prized for its peculiar delicate flavor can be made by taking equal quantities of currants and red raspberries and putting them through the strainer together. Then proceed with the juice as though it were of pure currants. Raspberry Jelly. — Crush the raspberries without scalding, strain, and proceed as for blackberry jelly. Do not have the raspberries over ripe. Cranberry Jelly. — One and a half pounds of berries ; 1 pint of water; cook thoroughly; strain through a jelly-bag. Cook the juice 15 minutes ; skim ; add as much sugar as there is juice. Boil again 15 minutes, and pour into jelly glasses. Rhubarb or Pie-plant Jelly, — Cut into nice lengths 7 pounds of good rhubarb, without peeling ; put it in the preserving pan with 472 JELLIES. 1 breakfast cupful of cold water; allow it to simmer gently until all juice is extracted; then give it a rapid boil, and run it through the jelly-bag; to each pint of juice add 1 pound of white sugar. When the sugar melts boil it for JO or 15 minutes. Then try it by cooling on ice, or dropping a spoonful on a cold plate. If boiled too long, there is danger of it becoming syrupy. A delicious jelly. Rhubarb and Apple Jelly. — Peel and cut up 1 good-sized bun- dle of rhubarb; peel, core and quarter 3 pounds of apples, the thin rind and the juice of half a dozen lemons; put all together into the preserving kettle with 1}< pints of water. Boil until reduced to a pulp ; strain the juice through a jelly strainer, weigh, and allow 1 pound of loaf sugar to every pound of juice. Boil up the juice, add the sugar, boil, skim well, and when it jellies on the skimmer, pour into glasses, and when cold tie or seal down. Orange Jelly. — Peel the oranges and run them through a fruit- press, if you have one ; if not, cut the oranges in two crosswise and rub the juice and pulp through a sieve. A lemon-squeezer or any device of that kind will not do, as the pulp must be taken wilh th.e juice. If you have 2 quarts of juice and pulp, cook it down to 3 pints, then add sugar pound for pint, and treat as any other ielly. Of course Oval Jelly Mould. ... , ^ j 4.1 ,. 1 -4^4-1 ■u^ r ^\ it IS understood that as little as possible of the white portion of the orange will be allowed in it, as that makes it bitter. The jelly glasses should be kept dark by wrapping in paper. Plum Jelly. — Take sound plums, remove the stems and make an incision in each one to cause the juice to start quicker. Put the fruit in a stone jar, cover, stand in kettle of cold water. Let the water boil around it for an hour, and the plums should have by that time the juice drawn out thoroughly. Strain through a flannel bag. Let drip several hours, or press lightly in a fruit-press, or with wooden spoons. If you wish the jelly very clear do not press very much. Measure three-quarters of a pound of sugar for each pint of juice. Put the sugar to heat in the oven, boil the juice over the fire. When the juice has boiled 25 minutes add the sugar. Test the jelly as soon as it boils again, and as soon as it forms a jelly, pour it into glasses. Some cooks crack a few of the pits and stew with the plums; this gives a pleasant flavor. If the plums are not squeezed in straining the juice, JELLIES. 473 the pulp may be made into a nice marmalade by adding three-quarters of a pound of sugar to 1 pound of the pulp, and cooking until it thickens. Wild Plum Jelly. — Wash the fruit and boil in water enough to cover until the plums are a pulp. Strain, weigh the juice, add three- quarters of a pound of sugar to 1 pound of juice, and make same as above rule. Do not squeeze the pulp — simply strain off the juice and make marmalade of the remainder. Tomato Jelly. — Peel the tomatoes and squeeze through a cloth, or stew and strain; weigh the juice and add pound for pound of white sugar. Boil to a jelly and seal up. Keep in a cool, dry place. Flavor with lemon-juice if wished. This is an excellent article. Serve with roast meat. Savory Tomato Jelly. — To a can of tomatoes add a sprig of pars- ley, bay leaf, 4 cloves stuck in an onion, pepper and salt. Let boil till soft. Remove spices, add 1 ounce of gelatine already softened, and a dash of lemon-juice. Strain, rubbing as much pulp through as pos- sible, put in mould. Serve it, when set, with celery mayonnaise, cold-slaw, lettuce salad, or anything that sliced tomatoes would be offered with. Pear Jelly. — Pear jelly is made exactly like quince, but requires a little longer boiling after the sugar is added. Peacli Jelly. — Crack one-third of the kernels and put them in the jar with the peaches, which should be pared, stoned and sliced. Heat in a pot of boiling water, stirring from time to time until the fruit is well broken. Strain, and to every pint of peach juice add the juice of a lemon. Measure again, allowing a pound of sugar to a pint of liquid. Heat the sugar very hot and add when the juice has boiled 20 minutes; skim. Let it come to a boil and take instantly from the fire. Delicious for jelly cake. Strawberry Jelly. — Select berries that are rather under than over ripe. Put the berries into a stone jar, stand it in a kettle of cold water, cover the top of the jar, and boil slowly for 1 hour, or until the berries are quite soft, but not broken to any extent. Run through a jelly bag without pressing. If the juice is not perfectly clear, strain again through muslin. Measure, and to each pint of the juice allow 1 pint of granulated sugar. Turn the juice into a porcelain-lined kettle over a brisk fire. Put the sugar in earthen dishes, and stand 474 JELLIES. them in the oven to heat. Boil gently 15 minutes, skim, then add the hot sugar and boil 10 minutes. Pour in glasses and seal when cold. Make a marmalade of the fruit pulp by adding one-half pound of sugar to 1 jjound of the pulp, and boiling until it thickens. Green Gooseberry Jelly. — Put the berries, after removing their tops and tails, and wiping them well, in a i)an and cover with water; place a plate upon them to keep them down, and cook till soft; then strain them through muslin or a very fine hair sieve, leaving them to drain for several hours. To each pint of juice allow three-quarters of a pound of preserving sugar, and boil together, skimming occa- sionally, till the jelly appears firm if a little be put on a plate; then pour into pots and tie down. They are better when part of them has just begun to redden. Coiiibiiiatioii Jelly. — Take raspberries, strawberries, currants, and cherries. All should be fully ripe ; stone the cherries. Throw all together in a jar, and set in a kettle of cold water; let this boil until the fruit is scalded. Strain through a jelly-bag, pressing as little as possible, and proceed as for currant jelly. Cool a little bit, stirring ; if it congeals readily, pour in glasses. Tie down with egg paper. The flavor of this jelly is much finer than that made of other fruit alone. Huckleberry Jelly. — Put the berries in an earthen jar, cover, and stand in a kettle of cold water. Let boil until the juice is extracted from the fruit. Strain, measure, turn into a porcelain kettle, and boil 5 minutes. Add an equal measure of granulated sugar. Boil 10 minutes. Try a spoonful on a cold plate, and if it hardens, remove at once. If not, let it boil longer. Turn into glasses and seal. One teaspoonful of .strong vinegar to each pint of the juice improves the flavor. Chei-ry Jelly. — Pit the cherries, put in a stone crock, and set in a kettle of boiling water to scald. Strain, and proceed as for currant jelly. Fancy Jellies, These jellies, of which there are many kinds, form delicious des- serts to follow heavy dinners and should be served with crisp wafers, fancy cakes, etc. In summer, especially, will their delicate flavors be appreciated. The foundation of all will be found in gelatine or isin- glass. The gelatine should always be dissolved in cold water. If JELLIES. 475 gelatine is melted first in hot water — as it may be very quickly — it is likely to lack delicacy of flavor and to assume a muddy appearance that cannot be overcome. Some gelatines soften in L5 or 20 minutes in cold water, but there are many varieties which require 2 hours, and this time is given as being a safe rule for making all kinds of jellies. If this length of time is allowed for the softening process, the gela- tine need not be clarified with white of egg or otherwise ; and the housekeeper with forethought of the needs of her table will keep this portion of the work in mind and put. the gelatine in water early in the morning or even the night before, provided she has a cool place in which to keep it. The lower part of the refrigerator is as good as any for the purpose. It is well also to remember that for each quart of jelly, where there is neither milk nor eggs used in its composition, one-half box of gelatine will be required. Jellies are nicer strained. A flannel shaped to a point is best for this purpose. Oraiijje Jelly. — The juice of 4 oranges, the grated rind of 1, juice and rind of 1 lemon, 1 j4 cupfuls of sugar. Put one-half box of gela- tine into cold water, let it stand 2 hours, add a pint of boiling water and the other ingredients, pour into moulds and set on ice to cool. Lemon Jelly. — One package of Cox's gelatine soaked in enough cold water to cover it ; juice of 3 lemons and 2 cupfuls of white sugar. Pour over thi^ 1 quart of boiling water, stir until dissolved and strain into jelly moulds, wetting these before using. Dip a cloth in hot water and wrap around the mould and the jelly will turn out easily. (See Creams and Charlottes?) Fancy Jellies witli Whipped Cream. — There are several ways of serving these. Use 1 large mould with a tube in the centre; a new cake tin will answer. Turn it out when firm on a fancy plate. Whip to a froth one-half pint of cream, sweeten with 2 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. Fill the hollow left by the tube with this, heaping in the centre, and pile the remainder around the base. If the mould is solid, heap all the cream around the base. Use ornamental sauce dishes and serve some of the cream with each helping of jelly. Or mould in wine-glasses, pointed in shape. Turn out on an ornamental plate, arrange prettily, and heap whipped cream around and between. Serve a pyramid to each person in a sauce dish, with a portion of cream. 476 JELLIES. Variously colored fruit jellies, the more colors the better, can be moulded in pointed wine glasses. Warm a little of each enough to run, fill the glasses and cool. Ariany;c on a pretty plate, and heap whipped cream around and between ihe moulds. Pineapple Jelly. — Remember this cannot stand more than 2 hours unless it is kept icy cold, as the pineapple will digest the gela- tine. Pare and grate 1 large pineapple, add a half pound sugar, then a half box of gelatine that has been soaked half an hour. Put the whole over the fire and stir constantly until it is steaming hot. Now press through a colander. Decorate a cylinder mould with almonds, fasten them in place by dipping them in a little melted gelatine. Fill in the pineapple and pack in cracked ice with just a little salt. Stand 2 hours and serve with whipped cream. It cannot be allowed to stand over night, as morning will find it dissolved to a liquid. Cherry Jelly (Gelatine). — Stem and stone 2 pounds of sweet dark-red cherries ; put them into a bowl ; pound the kernels and squeeze over them the juice of 4 lemons. Mash the cherries with a wooden spoon, add a small tumbler of red currant jelly, the kernels and lemon juice. Boil together 1 pound of sugar, 2 cups of water, and half an ounce of gelatine, previously dissolved in a little hot water. Put the cherries into a jelly bag, pour the sugar and gelatine over them, and run through several times till quite clear. Add sugar or lemon juice if not sweet or acid enough. Wet the mould, place it in ice, pour in the jelly, and do not turn it out until the last mo- ment. Delicious. Peach Jelly (Gelatine). — Dissolve in sufificient water 1 ounce of gelatine ; strain it ; halve 1 dozen large peaches and pare them ; make a syrup of 1 pound of fruit sugar and half a pint of water. Into this put the peaches and kernels ; boil gently 15 minutes, then place the fruit on a plate and cook the syrup 10 minutes longer ; add to it the juice of 3 lemons and the gelatine. A pyramid mould is very pretty for this. Fill part full of jelly, and when set, put in one-quarter of the peaches. Place on ice and let it harden ; add more jelly, harden, etc., until full. Let the base of the mould be jelly. It can be put in a mould and the peaches left out and served separately. Coflfee Jelly. — This jelly is a proper accompaniment of cake and is as pretty as it is palatable. Soak half a box of gelatine 2 hours. Then make a quart of strong, clear coffee, and pour it at once over JELLIES. 477 the gelatine, sweetening to taste. Tastes differ so widely in the mat- ter of sugar in coffee that no rule can be given. Turn the jelly into a wet mould as soon as the sugar is dissolved, and just as it goes to the table pour around it sweetened whipped cream. A handsome dessert may be arranged thus : Pour the jelly half an inch deep into square, bright tin pans, and when cold cut it into small blocks with a knif^ that has been dipped in hot water. Meap the blocks on a glass dish or upon a folded napkin laid on a china plate, and serve with sweetened cream from a pitcher or boat. Rhubarb Jelly. — Boil rhubarb in water until well done. Pass through a sieve and sweeten to taste ; put on fire. Dissolve 1 heap- ing tablespoonful of cornstarch in half a cup of cold water, stir it into the boiling juice, and stir till the jelly looks clear. Pour in a mould, and set away to become firm. It can be served with or without whipped cream or sweetened cream. Blackberry Jelly (Grelatine). — A most delicious and sweet dish, and may be employed as a substitute for pudding. Of course, it should be made the day before it is wanted. Strain the juice from ripe blackberries, boil it and skim well, and dissolve in it half a pound of sugar for a pint. Stir in an ounce of gelatine which has been well soaked in a cupful of water, and melted separately. Mix thoroughly, and pour in an earthenware mould when the jelly begins to set, and not before. This blackberry jelly will be excellent, if served with cream. If approved, a strip of thin lemon rind can be stewed with the fruit. Strawberry Jelly (Gelatine). — One quart strawberries, 1 large cup sugar, juice of 1 lemon, two-thirds package gelatine soaked in 1 cup cold water, 1 pint boiling water. Mash berries, and strain through coarse muslin. Mix sugar and lemon juice with soaked gelatine, pour over the boiling water, stir until clear; strain through flannel bag. Have a mould with cylinder in centre, dip in water, pour in jelly. Set on ice. When served, fill centre with whipped cream. Wine Jelly. — One package (2 ounces) gelatine, soaked 2 hours in large cup cold water ; 2 cups white wine or sherry ; 1 lemon, all the juice and half the grated peel ; 1 teaspoonful bitter almonds, 2 cups white sugar, 2 cups boiling water. Put soaked gelatine, lemon, and sugar together, with the flavoring, and cover close half an hour. 478 JELLIES. Pour on boiling water, stir, and strain. Add wine, and strain again through flannel bag, without squeezing, and leave in mould until solid. Wet mould in cold water before pouring in the jelly. Served with whipped cream it is very nice. Pass sliced o'r fancy cakes with it. Calf's Foot Jolly. — Boil very slowly 4 nicely cleaned calf's feet in o quarts of water, until reduced to 1 ; strain, and set away until cold; then take off the fat from the top, and remove the jelly into a stew-pan, avoiding the settlings, and adding one-half pound of white powdered sugar, ihc juice of 2 lemons, and the whites of 2 eggs, the latter to make it transparent. Let boil about 15 minutes without stirring. Pour into large flannel bag; repeat stirring until it runs clear; then have ready large china basin or smaller moulds. Set away to become firm. This is very nice for the sick, as is also wine jelly. Cider Jelly. — A good substitute for wine jelly will find favor with those who object to the use of wine in cooking. One cupful of cold water, one-half box of gelatine, 1 cupful of boiling water, a small stick of cinnamon, 1 cupful of granulated sugar, the juice and grated rind of 1 large lemon, 1^ cupfuls of sweet cider. Let the gelatine soak half an hour in the cold water. Pour the boiling water upon 'the cinnamon, and let it stand at the back part of the range till slightly flavored. When the gelatine is soft, add the sugar and boiling water. Stir until dissolved, then add cider and lemon, and strain. If it is desired to mould the jelly, allow the mixture to cool, then dip the mould into cold water, and pour the jelly in before it begins to stiffen. It ma\' be turned into a wet, flat dish, to be cut when cold into squares. These little squares can be arranged neatly in a pile, and served with cream and sugar, whipped cream heaped about them, or with the following sauce : Sauce. — Boil for 10 minutes a stick of cinnamon, 3 inches long, in a coffee-cupful of water ; add half a teacupful of sugar, boil 3 min- utes longer, stirring continuously, and remove to a cool place. Pour this around the cider jelly, just as it is sent to the table. Sometimes, while the sauce is at;, the boiling point, it is whipped into the yolk of an egg that has been thoroughly beaten, and when cold and ready to serve, the stiffly beaten white of the egg is added. Serve with cake. If the cider is perfectly sweet, the lemon juice is an improvement; but if it is fermented, no more acid is required. Porcelain-lined kettles are the safest to use for canning or preserving fruit in any fash- ion. New, unworn granite iron is also safe to Tin should never be employed, as it is very to turn the fruit dark colored. Old-fashioned people, who still cling to brass kettles, understand that they must be very carefully cleaned. Scour with sand before using, scald with salt and vinegar, rinse, and wipe thoroughly. After using, wash at once. It is dangerous to allow the fruit to stand in a brass kettle to cool. Keep canned fruit, preserves and jellies in a dark closet. If a dark closet is impossible, wrap each glass with brown paper. Canned fruit should be kept moderately cool and at the same temperature all the time. Drop a silver spoon (tablespoon) in a glass can, and hot fruit can be poured in without danger of breakage, because the metal readily absorbs a large portion of the heat of the fruit. Another safeguard is to wet a cloth in cold water, fold, and stand one or more jars upon it. The filling of jars may be greatly expedited by the use of a gro- cer's funnel, and a small milk dipper is the best thing for ladling out the hot fruit or syrup. A glass funnel is a decided improvement upon the tin affair. Its tube shows whether it is clean or not, and it can never corrode, as tin and copper funnels do. Put in the first spoonful of fruit quickly. After this, fill quickly with the fruit at boiling point, put on the cover immediately and turn up the spring ; then turn the bottle upside down, and let it stand in this position for some minutes. This treatment will heat the cover and thoroughly dispose of any microbes that may have been lurking about the dish. After cans have once been used, and before fruit is again put into them, they should be put into a kettle of water containing a handful of sal-soda, which must be brought to a boil. Let them cool in the water, and rinse thoroufihlv in clear water. This removes any germs pf fermentation that may have lodged in the glass, and the soda 479 480 CANNED FRUITS. effectually sweetens them. If the can cover resists loosening when ready to use, wrap in a cloth wrung from hot water and folded around the top. If not, set the can with the top downward in an inch or so of boiling water. See that it does not touch the glass. Or run knife under rubber ring. Rings that have hardened may be dropped for one-half hour in a solution of one-third water and two- thirds ammonia, to soften. It is better, however, to use new rubbers, since they are safe, and a fresh can of fruit is certainly worth a new ring. Examine cans carefully, since it is no uncommon occurrence to find small bits of glass in them which do not come out with sim- ple washing. The danger of such bits of glass getting in food can- not be over-estimated. In selecting cans choose as far as possible those which are free from air bubbles in the glass. The more perfect they are, the less danger there is from broken glass. There are devices of various sorts for screwing on can covers and also for removing them, but these are entirely unnecessary. When fruit is hot the can cover and rubber should be Can Opener. very hot also. The cover is very easily put on with the fingers, and can be sealed quite tight enough for safety, provided new rubbers are used. After a few moments, or when the last can is finished, go over each one by course and see if they can be tightened. It is very rarely that one finds a cover that needs changing. If an earthenware jar or jug is used for canning, see that it is per- fectly glazed, otherwise it will not be air-tight and the fruit will not keep. Sometimes there are ridges in the glass, which prevent cans being hermetically sealed with rubber rings ; apply over the place a little putty or a cold paste of flour and water. Two-quart cans or jars should only be used in large families; one- quart and one-pint cans are better for small families, as canned fruit does not retain its freshness long after being opened. Opening canned fruit an hour or two before using, that it may regain the excluded oxygen, improves the flavor. A surplus of fruit, left from canning, may be sealed hot in small bottles to use for pudding sauces, etc. CANNED FRUITS. 481 The secret of canning fruit is to sterilize it completely, or to kill the germs of decay thoroughly, otherwise there will be a failure. The fruit may be canned with or without sugar, as the sugar is no neces- sary part of its preservation. Vegetables in which there is sugar require much longer to cook than others ; for example — corn, beets and young peas. Tomatoes need but 20 minutes, corn a full hour. Fill the jars to overflowing ; that the heat of the syrup may sterilize the cover. Table for Canning. Fruits. Apples, sour, quartered Blackberries Cherries Currants, ripe . . . . Cranberries Crabapples Grapes, ripe Grapes, wild Plums Peaches, halved , . . <2 ■of 3 a O-W) c« Mins. Ozs. 10 5 6 6 5 6 8 8 15 12 25 8 10 5 10 8 10 8 10 4 Fruits. Peaches, whole . . • . Pears, small, sour, whole Pears, Bartlett, halved . Pineapples, sliced . . . Pie Plant, or Rhubarb . Quinces, sliced .... Raspberries Strawberries Tomatoes, sliced . . . Whortleberries .... .6? Mins. 15 30 20 15 10 15 6 8 20 5 Ozs. 6 10 6 6 10 10 4 Methods of Sealing-. — 'Fill the bottles or cans full of fruit pre- pared as for canning. Have ready 3 or 4 sheets of paper. Cut to fit the jars and large enough to turn over the rim. Dip each one in a saucer containing the white of an egg. Press on quickly and tie down; add 2 or 3 more pieces after a time ; wet in the same way on the under side ; tie these down. Let dry and you will have an air-tight cover- ing for the fruit, preferred by many to the self-sealing tops. Be par- ticular that the jars finished in this manner are kept in a dry place, that the paper may not mould. If sealing-wax is to be used, the fol- lowing is a good formula : Sealing Wax. — One pound resin ; 1 ounce each of lard, tallow and beeswax. Melt these ingredients together. Put the cork in very tight and cover over with the mixture. If neces- sary, dip a cloth in the mixture and tie firmly over the cork. 31 482 CANNED FRUITS. A New Way of CauDing-. — Scientific experiments have been made in keeping fruit in jars covered only with cotton batting, and at the end of two years the fruit was perfectly sound. The process is as follows : Use crocks, stone-bottom jars, or any other convenient dishes. Prepare and cook the fruit precisely as for canning in glass jars; fill dishes with the fruit while it is yet hot, and immediately cover with cotton batting, securely tied on. Putrefaction is caused by the invisible creatures in the air. Cooking the fruit expels all these, and as they cannot pass through cotton batting, the fruit thus protected will keep an indefinite period. Tyndall has proved that atmospheric germs cannot pass through a layer of cotton. In flavoring canned fruit do not use spices, but keep to lemon or orange, or other fruit flavors. Canning can be done in small quan- tities even better, and with much less weariness. When fruit and vegetables are ordered for the table there is usually some left, and a can or two can be put up with very little inconvenience. In opening a tin can of fruit pour out the contents immediately. Leave exposed to the air in an open dish for some little time before using, and if any remains over put away in an earthen dish. To test fruit or vegetables put up in tin cans (such as are bought at the store) apply the thumbs to both ends of the can. If it resists pressure, the contents are well preserved. Reject every article that does not show the line of resin round the edge of the solder of the cap, the same as is seen on the seam on the side of the can. Reject every can that does not have the name of the manufacturer or firm upon it, as well as the name of the company or town where manufactured. When the cans are full of the boiling fruit, run a spoon down to get out the air-bubbles. Let the froth run off the top of jar and seal. Steam Canning-. — The simplest canning apparatus is undoubtedly the best. In these days of many patents, when the market is filled with various elaborate devices for canning purposes, it is pleasant to know that the very best results may be obtained with a simple wooden rack fitted into a flat-bottomed clothes boiler. A good boiler of this kind, of heavy tin, large enough to hold 1^ dozen cans, may now be purchased at small cost. Any amateur carpenter may easily make the rack out of pine .strips a half inch thick and 1 Yi inches wide. Or, simpler still, each jar can be set on a small block of wood. CANNED FRUITS. 483 The jars are filled with fi-uit and covered with the syrup made from the juice, in the case of soft fruit, like berries; and of water, in the proportion of 5 pints of water to 7 pounds of sugar, in the case of harder fruits, like peaches, pears and plums. The covers are screwed down without a rubber, and the jars set on this rack and separated by kitchen towels. They are immersed up to their necks in warm water, which is allowed to come to the boiling point. In the case of delicate fruits, like strawberries, the water is allowed to boil but 2 minutes around the jars. In the case of pineapples, it boils 5 minutes; in case of peaches, pears and plums, and most other fruits, 20 minutes. As soon as the time of boiling is over, the fruit is removed at once, jar by jar, the cover is taken off, the jar is filled to the brim with fresh, boiling syrup, to take the place of that which has been absorbed. Or, take one of the cans and use to fill the cans per- fectly full. The rubber is put on and the cover is screwed up as tight as possible. When the jars are cold the covers are tightened again, and each jar is wrapped in paper, to exclude its contents from the light, and is set away in a preserve closet. The closet should be in a place where the uniform temperature is as near to 50 degrees as possible. A dry cellar is usually the best place. Steam Caiiniug-. — II. Fill the jars with raw fruit, and put in the boiler as above. Let cook until half done, then open and fill up the cans with a good syrup, made of sugar and water. Have this boiling hot. By having the syrup very rich, a delicious preserve can be made, with the added advantage of the fruit cooking fresh and whole. Try the cans after they are cold. More than once will do no harm. Canned Strawberries — The first berries picked from the vines are the firmest and the finest flavored, and so are better for canning than those gathered later. Allow 2 baskets to a quart-jar. Put half a pound of granulated sugar and 2 tablespoons of water on to boil, and boil until it begins to crystallize. Then drop in the fruit carefully and just let it boil up about 2 minutes. Then carefully skim out the fruit into the jars, and fill to overflowing with the boiling syrup. Seal. Use an asbestos mat to stand the boiling syrup on to prevent scorching. Canned Strawberries. — II. First wash your berries, then take two-thirds berries and one third sugar; put a layer of berries, then a layer of sugar into an earthen dish until you have used them all ; let 484 CANNED FRUITS." them stand over night. In the morning turn off the juice, put it over the fire, let it come to a boil and skim ; add the berries, let them boil just enough to scald them, then can. Strawberries canned in this way are very nice and retain their color and size. To help strawber- ries to retain their natural color, keep the jars in total darkness. Cold Water Cauniiig-. — Cranberries, blueberries, gooseberries, pie plant and currants can be prepared in this manner: Fill self-sealing cans full of fruit. Boil water to remove gases and impurities. Cool thoroughly. Fill the cans full and seal tight. Pie plant should be cut in inch-long pieces. Pineapple can be canned in its own juice. Cut it up in small, dice-shaped pieces. Add 1^ pounds of sugar to 1 pound of the fruit. Seal it up cold. Keep where there is no dan- ger of freezing. Put the fruit and sugar in layers in the can. Canned Pineapple (Whole). — Pare and remove the cores from the pineapples. Take out cores and place each pineapple in a large- mouthed jar. Cover with boiling water ; place the jars in a steam cooker or a patent canner, and steam continuousl)^ for three-quarters of an hour. Seal ; when cool, examine tops to see that they are as tight as can be made. Put the covers on tight, without the rubber. The amount of cooking must be regulated by the judgment, as some kinds of fruit require more than others. If patent canners or steam cookers arc not convenient, take an ordinary wash-boiler and put a board in the bottom with auger holes in it for the water to boil through. Cold water can be used to fill the cans instead of hot. Fruit prepared in this fashion can be served sliced with sugar same as fresh fruit. Mulberries, To Can. — Our native mulberry is a highly aromatic- flavored fruit, with a pleasant sub-acid juice. It is said to be very cooling and wholesome in its effects. The fruit when ripe is black, and should be gathered at once. It may be used in all recipes where blackberries are used, and also makes excellent jelly and preserves for winter use. Canned Elderl>ei-ries. — To a gallon of black elderberries that have been stemmed and washed, add 1 quart of vinegar. If the vin- egar is very strong, use a little less. When they have boiled a min- ute or two, pour into glass jars and seal. When wanted for pies add sugar to taste and thicken with a little flour, using 1 pint of berries. Elderberries prep.ircd in this way make excellent pies. CANNED FRUITS. 485 Canned Blackberries. — To can blackberries allow a cup of sugar to 2 cups of water for every can of fruit. Let this syrup boil up over the fire for 10 minutes. Fill cans with the fruit. Cover them with the syrup, which need not be cooled for this purpose, but may be used moderately warm, as the blackberry is not a very delicate fruit like the strawberry and the raspberry. Put on the covers of the jars without the rubbers ; or, in case the new patent jars are used, leave the vent open. Proceed according to directions for steam can- ning. Cranberries, To Can. — Proceed by the cold-water method, or steam canning. Green Currants, Canned. — A relish for meats. Pick and stem green currants, and stew until tender in boiling water. Pour off the water, and for every pint of currants add 1 cupful of brown sugar. Rub the stewed currants through a sieve to remove the seeds and skins. Bottle when hot. Also proceed by the cold-water method, or steam canning. Canned Plums. — Proceed by the method of steam canning. Or, allow a half pound of sugar to each pound of the fruit. If the green- gage variety are used, prick the skins of each several times before cooking. Make a syrup, bring to the boiling point slowly, skim and add the plums. When cooked till tender they are ready for the cans. Canned Pears. — To every 3 pounds of fruit allow 1}4 pounds of sugar and half a pint of water. Peel the pears ; halve, if wished, and lay them in cold water to keep them from turning dark before they are wanted. When the .syrup is boiling, put the pears in and cook till they look clear or a fork can be stuck into them easily. Carefully fill the jars with the fruit. Pour the hot syrup over them, filling the jars to the top. Cover and seal. Some cooks steam the pears before putting in the syrup. Pile the peeled fruit on a plate and steam in a steamer until a straw will penetrate the fruit, then proceed as above. Quinces, Canned. — Peel, core, and wash. Allow half a pound of granulated sugar and half a pint of water, to 1 pound of quinces. Boil together slowly, until the quinces are tender. Have the jars thoroughly heated ; fill nearly to the top with the quinces, and over- flow with the juice. Seal quickly. Peaches, Canned. — Pare the fruit, cut in half, remove the pits, and with these raw halves pack the jars closely. Make a heavy 486 CANNED FRUITS. syrup of 2 pounds of sugar to a pint of water, and when it is well done pour it over the fruit, and seal at once. The peaches will pare more easily if dropped in boiling water. Have a large kettle of boil- ing water on the fire. Fill a wire basket with peaches, and lower it into the boiling water for about 2 minutes. Turn the peaches out on a dish and pare them. To do this, however, the peaches must be very firm. A few of the peach pits, blanched, and dropped in each can will improve the flavor for most people. It is not necessary to make such a rich syrup when the fruit is canned. Pound for pound, or even half a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit, and half a pint of water to every 3 pounds of fruit. Keep the peaches in cold water, after paring, until all are used. This prevents discoloring. Put the fruit in the syrup in small quantities. Cook about 5 minutes, remove, and pack in the jars, and fill up with the hot syrup, meanwhile put- ting more fruit in the .syrup to cook. The same syrup can be used for several jars of fruit. This same process can be followed with man}- other fruits, such as pears, etc. Both peaches and pears look better if the syrup be strained. Have a fine strainer in the funnel through which the syrup is poured into the jar. Canned Cherries. — Add to them one-third their weight in sugar; after it has dissolved boil slowly for 15 minutes, put in l:)ottles or cans, and seal hot. By some, the taste given by leaving in the pits is thought an improvement. If this flavor is desired, the pits should be tied in a thin piece of muslin or netting and boiled with the cherries, but cherries should never be canned without removing the stones. Cherries in Molasses. — Stem ripe cherries and put in wide- mouthed bottles, filling nearly full. Then pour in New Orleans molasses to cover completely. Drive in a tightly-fitting cork, and cover with 2 or 3 thicknesses of egg paper. (See directions.) Shake occasionally, in order to mix the contents. The fruit will absorb enough of the molasses to render it sweet enough to make into pud- dings or pies, without farther sweetening. Canned Apples. — Make a nice sauce from tart apples, cook quite smooth. Bell Flowers are the best. This is a nice way to keep them when they begin to spoil. Apples and Raisins (to Can). — Make the sauce as above. To each can of this sauce add 1 or 1 ^ cupfuls nice raisins. Put in when the fruit first begins to cook. This adds both to flavor and appearance. CANNED FRUITS. 487 Hliubarb, or Pie Plant (to Can). — Can by the cold water pro- ces. (See directions.) Drop a silver spoon down in the can and see that all of the air bubbles escape. Pint jars are convenient, since that size makes one good pie. Canned Green Peas. — Shell and can by the rule for steam can- ning. Fill the cans as for fruit, omitting sugar. Boil the same way until they are sufficiently cooked ; fill each can up with hot water. Screw down tight and set away. Some housekeepers prefer to cook the vegetables 10 or 15 minutes, then fill the cans and finish cooking. Instead of filling up with water, take 1 or more of the cans and fill up the others. Do not put the rubber rings on the cans until after the second canning. In this way the cans are almost solid fruit, and economy of space is secured. In preparing for the table, dilute with hot water as much as desired, or milk, and season to taste. Let them boil about 20 minutes. Green Beans (to Can). — These are excellent canned as above. String and cut in pieces as for the table. Or simply boil the pre- pared beans rapidly 10 or 15 minutes, and can at once. Run a silver spoon around the inside of the jar to break the air bubbles. In the morning tighten the covers and put in a cool, dark place. Canned Pumpkin. — Steam the pumpkin, first slicing and remov- ing seeds ; leave in the shell. When done, scrape from the shell. Mash, fill into cans, hot, being careful that no air-bubbles remain in filling the can. Seal up. It can be prepared for pies the same as fresh pumpkin, from which it cannot be told. Instead of steaming, it may be baked and scraped from the shell. Tomatoes (to Can). — Tomatoes, if cut in half and canned in water only, can be used either in salads, fried or broiled, and no one would ever know but that they were fresh from the vines. See rule for cold- water canning. Canned Tomatoes. — Pare and slice and fill into bottles, and pro- ceed as for steam canning. Another way is to put the whole, un- peeled fruit in jars, first carefully wiping, and choosing round, medium- sized and perfect tomatoes. Then proceed as for steam canning, filling up the jars with hot water. They will be all ready for salads or frying. Yellow tomatoes are very nice canned in the cold-water fashion, and would make a very pretty salad for a Yellow Tea or Luncheon. 48S CANNED FRUITS. Tomatoes Canned Whole. — Place a preserving kettle oil stove half full of water. When it comes to a boil, put in whole tomatoes, previously skinned. Heat thoroughly all through. Lift carefully into hot glass jars and fill jars to overflowing with the hot water in which they are cooked. Screw covers on air-tight. Place in paper bags, each jar by itself. Keep in cool place. Be sure there are no air bubbles. Scald the tomatoes that they may peel more easily. Canned Corn. — Pick the corn as soon as it is right for table use ; do not allow any delay in the matter. Husk and remove ever}^ par- ticle of the silk. Then cut the corn from the cob with a sharp knife, taking care not to cut too near the cob ; scrape out the milk ; pack the corn in glass cans, pressing it in as firmly as possible with a wooden pestle; do this very thoroughly ; fill the cans full to the brim, and screw on the covers as tight as you can. Put a thin layer of hay or straw into a large kettle or boiler, lay the cans on it in any position; over these put a layer of the straw, fill the vessel in this order, cover with cold water, put on the range and boil for three hours. Let the cans remain in the water until cold ; then remove them, tighten the covers, and set in a cool, dry place. Two or three thicknesses of cloth may be put under and between the cans if preferred, but they must not be allowed to touch each other while boiling, for fear of breaking them. Or, use the way described in Steam Cookery. Keep in a dark place. Canned Asparagus. — Select firm, even-sized stalks of asparagus, and, if necessary, wash it. When drained, put it carefully into jars, heads up, packing as closely as possible. Fill the jars with boiling, slightly salted water, steam for half an hour and seal at once. Canned Milk. — Milk canned this way can be kept for six months, and when opened it is fresh and nice. Take the milk as soon as the animal heat is out, put in a kettle or pail, and set into a boiler of hot water and bring it to a boiling heat. Then pour into common fruit jars, and seal the same as canned fruit. Place the jars in the cellar or a cool place, and keep until used. Canned Beef Tong-ue.— Boil, skin, and slice a beef's tongue, corned or fresh ; return to the kettle, and when boiling hot pack in a Mason's can, pressing down hard ; cover an inch deep with the 1 oil- ing liquor and .seal. If fresh, season the slices, as they are packed, with salt and pepper. Keep in a cool, dark cellar. CANNED FRUITS. m Honeys, Syrups, Butters. Quince Syrup for Hot Cakes. — Grate 3 large quinces, add 3 pounds of granulated sugar and a quart of water. Let it simmer slowly for 2 or 3 hours afcer having brought it to the boiling point. Clierry Syrup. — Stone the cherries, mash them and press out the juice in a crock or bowl; let it stand in a cool place for 2 days. Fil- ter, add 2 pounds of sugar to 1 pint of juice, stir well over the fire until it boils, and bottle. Excellent with hot cakes. Maple Syrup. — One-half pound maple sugar, 1 pound white sugar, 3 pints water. Break maple sugar small, place on fire with sugar and water; boil 5 minutes; skim, then cool. Substitute for Maple Syrup. — One pound of brown sugar, just enough water to keep it from sticking, boil 1 minute, take from fire, add 3 drops of the extract of vanilla. Strawberry Syrup. — Take fresh strawberries and inclose in a coarse bag. Press out the juice and to each quart add 1 pint of water and 6 pounds white sugar. Dissolve by raising to the boiling point and strain. Bottle and cork while hot, then keep in a cool place. Apricot Syrup. — Take off the skins from some ripe apricots, stone and cut in small pieces, place in a dish, and strew over them a thin layer of sifted sugar ; let them remain a couple of hours ; place in a saucepan with a little water, and let sinmier gently until they are soft ; strain the juice, and add to it sugar in the proportion of one-quarter pjund to a pint ; boil it gently, skimming thoroughly all the time ; let it get cold, then bottle it. It will be found useful to flavor cus- tards, cream, ices, etc. The fruit in the jelly bag must not be squeezed. After the juice has run from it, it will make very nice tartlets with the addition of a little sugar. Time to boil with the sugar, 10 or 12 minutes. Simple Syrup for Hot Cakes. — One-half pint of water to each pound of sugar. When it is thoroughly dissolved set over a gentle fire and let boil half an hour. When clear and boiling hot, spread a wet napkin over a bowl and strain the syrup through. Some like to flavor this with rose, cinnamon, nutmeg or even lemon. Hygienic Cream Sauce for Hot Cakes. - One-half pint milk, one- half pint cream, yolk of 1 egg, tablespoonful buckwheat dissolved in 490 CANNED FRUITS. a little milk, large pinch salt. Bring milk and cream to boil, in thick, well-lined saucepan ; add to it buckwheat dissolved in milk, stirring rapidly to prevent lumping, allow it to boil 5 minutes ; remove from fire, beat in the yolk of egg diluted with a tablespoonful of milk. This is better and far more healthful (especially for children) than so much butter and .syrup. Lemon Syrup. — Put 3 pounds of white sugar in a preserving kettle. Cover with 1 quart of water. Boil until it is a clear syrup stirring frequently. When cool add 1 ounce of citric acid, and 2 tea- spoonfuls of oil of lemon. Bottle immediately. Orang-e Syrup. — Squeeze out the juice of fresh oranges; to 1 pint of the juice put 1}4 pounds of sugar. Set over a moderate fire. When the sugar has dissolved, drop in the peel of the oranges, and let boil slowly 10 minutes. Strain through a flannel bag. Do not squeeze the bag or the jelly will not be clear. Bottle, cork and seal. Very nice to flavor puddings, etc. Leniou Syrup can be made in the same way, using 1^ pounds of sugar to 1 pint of lemon juice. Wring the flannel bag out of hot water before straining. Lemon Honey. — Lemon honey is a queer, old-fashioned dessert which is easily made and delicious for a summer relish. Stir the yolks of 6 and the whites of 4 eggs into a pound of granulated sugar. Add the juice of 3 lemons and the grated rind of 2, and a scant 2 ounces of butter. Cook over a slow fire, stirring constantly, and when the mass is thick and clear like honey, pour it into custard cups and set in the ice-box. If you wish to make this dessert a trifle more elaborate, add a meringue to each cup before setting away to cool. Nevada Mountain Honey. — One and one-half pints of water, one- half ounce alum. Put in a kettle and boil Add to this 4 pounds white sugar. Boil 3 mmutes after it has dissolved. Skim, Strain while hot. Take 3 drops of oil of rose to one-half pint of alcohol, and put 1 large teaspoonful of this to the above mixture. An excel- lent imitation of honey, and a fine article for sale. Artificial Honey. — Ten pounds brown sugar, 1 quart of water, 2 pounds old bee honey, 1 teaspoonful cream tartar, 2 teaspoonfuls gum Arabic. Mix and boil 3 minutes. Add to this 1 quart of water beaten up with 1 egg, and continue boiling 5 or 6 minutes, removing CANNED FRUITS. 49l any scum that may rise. Take from the fire, and when nearly cold, add 2 pounds more of bee honey, 1 teaspoonful essence peppermint, 2 teaspoonfuls extract rose. One-half the recipe is a good quantity. Quince Honey. — Quince honey is delicious when spread upon pancakes or fritters. Here is a recipe for making it : Make a syrup of 3 pounds of sugar and a pint of water, into which stir 2 large peeled and grated quinces. Boil for 15 minutes and can for winter use or put in jelly glasses. Tomato Honey. — To every pound of ripe tomatoes allow 6 fresh peach leaves — if you can get them — and the grated rind of 1 lemon. Cut the tomatoes into small pieces, add leaves and rind, and stew slowly until well done. Press through a fine sieve and add for every pint of juice 1 pound of sugar and the juice of 1 lemon. Return to the fire and cook till thick like honey. If cooked quickly without a cover it will be a much lighter color. It can be kept in cans or bottled and sealed, and will be much relished by the little folks. Orang-e Butter. — Take the juice of 6 oranges and yolks of 8 hard-boiled eggs. Rub together in a mortar with 5 tablespoonfuls of pulverized loaf sugar and 1 tablespoonful of orange-water. When reduced to a paste stir over a slow fire for 20 minutes until thickened. Dip a mould in cold water and pour in the mixture. When cold turn out and serve with fancy cakes. Lemon Butter. — Grated rind and juice of 1 lemon, three-fourths cup of sugar and a scant teaspoon of butter. Put the lemon juice, grated rind and sugar into a bowl and place in dish of boiling water. When the sugar is melted and the syrup hot add a well-beaten egg, stirring constantly for 10 minutes or till the mixture thickens. Then stir in the butter, put the bowl into a dish of cold water, stirring occasionally until it cools. This is very rich and may be kept for weeks in a covered dish. Use as a sauce, or for tarts or layer cakes. ndW Pickles are simple and inexpensive to pre- pare, and various kinds should be found in the storeroom. Tiiey add variety to the bill of fare, and are a stimulant to the appetite. All vegetables, many fruii-s and parts of some flowers — notably the seed vessel of the nasturtium — may be used. The first requisite to success in pickle-making is good vine- gar, strong and pungent. Prepare the vegetables by washing thoroughly in cold water. Gherkins or small cucumbers, beans and small peppers, as well as nasturtium seeds, need only to be washed and drained thoroughly to be ready for pickling. Onions must be peeled, cabbages sliced and cauliflowers picked apart before they can be u^ed. Peaches, pears, grapes and watermelon rind make the mobt popular of the fruit pickles. Peaches are nicest when peeled, though many people simply rub the roughness ofl" with a rough towel. Pears do not require peeling. The melon rind must be peeled and cut in thick slices. Do not use a copper kettle in any part of the process of pickle-making, but use instead a porcelain-lined prcsriving kettle. Vinegar boiled in copper forms acetate of copper, which i i green and a poison. Many very serious accidents have hap- pened through the use of copper vessels. Cider vinegar should be used when possible. Other vinegar fre- quently softens or eats the pickles. If the vinegar is too strong, dilute it with water. If the pickles are to be put in jars, be sure that they have never been used to hold any kind of grease. Pickles that are canned and sealed hot are certain to keep, and all trouble of watching, and, perhaps, scalding, is avoided. Be sure that pickles are kept where they will not freeze. Brine for putting down pickles should be made in the proportion of 1 pint of coarse salt to 1 gallon of water. Mustard seed, used in seasoning pickles, helps to prevent mould from forming. A cluster or two of green grapes added to pickles helps to preserve the strength of the vinegar. 492 PICKLES. 493 Watch pickles, and stir occasionally, and take out any soft ones that may be found among them. It is best in this case to pour off the vinegar, scald, and turn back hot. If it is found to be very weak, new vinegar should be heated and turned on instead. If a scum or froth forms on the pickles, draw the vinegar and wash the pickles thor- oughly in plenty of clear water; then boil the vinegar, skimming off all froth that appears, and continuing the boiling as long as any froth rises. Turn the vinegar while still hot over the pickles, and set them away. Put pickles away, when finished, in a stone jar, tying a clean white cloth over the mouth of the jar before adjusting the cover. Al- ways lay a plate upon the pickles to hold them well under the vinegar. Horseradish put in pickles when they are first put up will keep the vinegar from losing its strength, and the pickles will not be liable to become soft or mouldy. This is especially good for tomato pickles. A little bag of mustard laid on the top of pickle jars will prevent vinegar from becoming mouldy if the pickles are put up in vinegar that has not been boiled. Or, cover the jars or bottles with cloth, spread with mixed mustard ; it keeps them in fine condition. To keep pickled onions and cabbage from turning yellow, use white wine vine- gar for pickling. To Keep Pickles Green. — It is desirable to retain the green color of gherkins, beans, green tomatoes, etc. To accomplish this, some days before pickling add grapevine leaves to the vinegar to be used, and let it steep until ready to use, when the vinegar ought to have a decided green color, which color will of necessity be imparted to the vegetables. This is perfectly harmless. To Keep Pickles Firiti. — One-half bushel of grape-leaves added to 1 barrel of pickles in brine will keep them sound and firm. The reason that pickles soften is that the vinegar is either too strong or too weak; if the latter is the case, a white scum will rise to the top of the jar. Stronger vinegar must then be procured and turned over the pickles, which must first be drained and thorouglily washed to remove all the white particles. Cucumber Pickles. — Use very small cucumbers, none more than 2)4 inches long. To each 100 cucumbers allowan ounce of mustard seed, an ounce of cloves, a large tablespoonful of salt, a cupful of sugar, and 2 small red peppers. Put the spices in thin muslin bags, using at least 2 bags to each 100 pickles. Put the cucumbers in a 494 PICKLES. kettle on the stove with enough good vinegar to cover them ; also place the bags of spices in the vinegar, together with the peppers cut in slices. Heat the vinegar as slowly as possible ; when it is scald- ing hot the pickles are ready to set away. The method is especially to be commended, when only a few cu- cumbers are to be pickled. The vinegar should be sharp and of good quality. Examine the pickles every week or 10 days for sometime after they are put up, to be sure that all remain firm and sound. If any soft pickles are found, throw them away, and drain the vinegar from the remainder; add a little water and half a cupful of sugar to every 200 pickles ; scald the vinegar, and return it to the pickles while hot. Cucumber Pickles. — II. Select sound cucumbers from 2 to 3 inches in length ; wash well and pack in a large stone jar, sprinkling salt between the layers in proportion of a pint to 200 pickles. Fill to the brim with boiling water. Let it stand till cold, or over night ; drain and wipe dry ; pack again in the jar, with a liberal sprinkling between the layers of bruised, not powdered, cloves, cinnamon, and allspice, and small pieces of horseradish root, which is indispensable. Then fill up until covered with boiling cider vinegar. After 2 days, drain off and scald the vinegar, skim if need be, and pour it back hot, and in 3 or 4 days repeat the process. In a week they will be good to use, and if the cellar is reasonably cool and dry, they will keep without any further attention, remaining solid and crisp until pickle time comes again, provided enough are made to last. A few green peppers in the vinegar give an added flavor, and are a great improve- ment. Alcohol Pickles. — An old-fashioned pickle. One pint of alcohol, 5 pints of rain water. In pickling be sure to leave the stems on the cucumbers. Wash carefully in clear water. Pour on the water and alcohol, weigh down the cucumbers, set in a warm place. Sweet Cucumber Pickles. — Put the pickles down in salt, as for " Cucumber Pickles, II." Small, even-sized cucumbers or gherkins are nicest for use. Wipe the pickles well after they are taken out of the brine, and soak them for a few days in vinegar to extract the salt. Put them in a jar, with a layer of seasoning between each cucumber. For a four-gallon jar of pickles this seasoning will take 7 pounds of suc'-ar, 2 ounces of allspice, half ounce of cloves, 1 ounce of mace, the PICKLES. 495 same each of pepper and celery seed, half ounce of ginger, half ounce of cinnamon, and 1 pint of small white onions, chopped. Cover all with strong vinegar, tie up the top of the jar securely, and place on the stove in a large pot of cold water, and let it boil until you can run a straw through the pickles easily. The pickles are delicious when finished. Mixed Cucumber Pickles. — Wash and drain. Pack alternate layers of small-sized cucumbers in a jar with alternate layers of green tomatoes and common-sized green peppers. Cover with a boiling hot brine (proportions, 1 pint of coarse salt to 1 gallon of water). Let stand 24 hours. Drain, rinse in cold water, and pour over them boiling spiced vinegar. Add a few roots of sliced horseradish. The mustard pickle can also be used. Mustard Pickle. — To be used with any pickle. One ounce each of cloves, allspice, and black pepper; 1 pound ground mustard, three- quarters pound sugar, 1 gallon vinegar. Tie the spice in a thin cloth, and boil in the vinegar, reserving 1 quart of it to mix with the mus- tard. Take out the spice bags, and stir in the mustard, first blending it smoothly with the cold vinegar. Pour this preparation liot over the pickles. Bottle, and cork tightly. Quick Cucumber Pickles. — Cut medium-sized cucumbers in strips. Salt well. Leave over night; then rinse in cold water. Pour boiling vinegar over them to cover. Set away to cool. Brine for Cucumbers. — To 3 gallons of rain-water put 2 of vine- gar, one-half pound of alum, which has been dissolved in hot water, and 3 quarts of salt. Pour the above mixture in a large earthen jar, and as the small cucumbers are gathered and washed throw them in; they may remain until the end of the season, when all can be pickled at one time, and are sure to come out of the brine fresh and crisp. The same brine can be used for keeping green tomatoes through the winter. Spiced Cucumbers. — Two dozen large cucumbers sliced and boiled in vinegar enough to cover them 1 hour; set them aside in the hot vinegar. To each gallon of cold vinegar, allow 1 pound sugar, 1 tablespoon cinnamon, 1 tablespoon ginger, 1 tablespoon black pepper, 1 tablespoon celery seed, 1 teaspoon mace, 1 teaspoon allspice, 1 teaspoon cloves, 1 tablespoon scraped horseradish, 1 table- spoon sliced garlic, one-half teaspoon cayenne pepper. Put in the 49(J PICKLES. cucunibers and stew 2 hours. The pickle is ready for use as soon as cold. Clreeii Tomato Pickles. — To make green tomato pickles slice a peck of green tomatoes and a dozen large onions and pack them in a jar in alternate layers, with salt between. Let them stand 24 hours. Then take out and drain off the brine. Pack in jars and cover with spiced vinegar. Pour it on boiling hot. In slicing the tomatoes reject the small slice at stem and blossom ends. Some cooks use the mustard pickle given before. Five or six red-pepper pods are a nice addition. Spicetl Viuegrar. — One ounce of mace, 1 ounce of celery seed, 1 ounce of white ginger root, 1 tablespoonful of powdered cinnamon, 1 large cupful brown sugar, one-quarter pound of mustard seed, 2 tablespoonfuls whole black pepper, 3 pints of vinegar. Divide the spices in three portions, and put each in a small muslin bag. Boil the .spices in the vinegar one-half hour. Then stir in the sugar until thoroughly melted. If the pickles are put in small jars, put one of the bags in each jar. If in a large one, place a third of the sliced tomatoes, or other pickle, in the bottom of a jar, put in one of the .spice- bags, and pour a third of the boiled vinegar over. Then another third of tomato, bag and vinegar, till all are arranged. Then fill the jar with cold vinegar till the pickle is covered, using more than the three pints, if necessary. Cover securely and set away for at least a month before using. One teacupful of grated horseradish is very nice added to this vinegar. Ripe Tomato Pickles. — Take plum tomatoes, mixed red and yel- low. Do not prick them. Let them lie in strongbrine three or four days ; put them down in laj^ers in jars, mixing with them small onions and pieces of horseradish ; pour on them cold, spiced vinegar; let there be a small spice-bag to put into every jar; cover them carefully, and let them set a whole month before using ; or, pack in cans and seal hot. Omit the onions. If large tomatoes are used, slice in inch-thick slices, before soaking in brine, 4 large onions to 1 peck of tomatoes. Chopped Ripe Tomato Pickles. — Peel and chop fine 6 quarts of ripe tomatoes, measured after they are chopped, add one-half pint of grated horseradish, 1 quart of celery finely chopped, 1 cup of chopped onion, 4 tablespoonfuls of chopped red peppers, 1 cup of white mustard seed, a cup and a half of brown sugar, a generous cup of salt PICKLES. 497 2 tablespoons of ground cinnamon, 1 tablespoon each of cloves and mace, 2 quarts of vinegar; mix together and put in ajar. Keep in a cool place. Cauliflower Pickles. — Break 2 cauliflowers into small bunches. Put them into cold water with 2 tablespoonfuls of salt. Let the water heat gradually. Boil the cauliflowers 10 minutes, then drain them on cloths or a hair sieve until perfectly dry, and then place them in glass jars. Pour over them boiling hot spiced vinegar. This is a good formula : One ounce of mustard seed, 2 ounces of celery seed, one- fourth of an ounce of mace, one-fourth of an ounce of nutmeg, one- fourth of an ounce of coriander seed, 2 quarts of vinegar. Boil the spice in the vinegar, tying it up in small bags. Some cooks do not boil the cauliflower, but pour the boiling vinegar over it. After a week's time, pour off", scald and pour back. Repeat this several times. Cauliflower is a little difficult to keep unless it is canned. If plain vinegar is used, boil some whole peppers in it. Small or slightly im- perfect heads of cauliflower can be used for pickling. Cabbag-e Pickle. — Slice firm, white heads of cabbage ; pack in layers in a jar, sprinkling salt between each layer. Let stand over night. In the morning drain and pack in a jar, sprinkling grated horseradish between each layer and celery seed. Cover with scald- ing hot spiced vinegar. After six days pour off" the vinegar, scald and pour back. If necessary, weight the cabbage to keep under the vinegar. Cabbag-e Mustard Pickle. — Proceed as above, and when in the jar, pour over it the mustard. Pickle before given. Mix well. This is ready for use when cold. Pliiladelpliia Pepper Cabbage. — Two large, firm heads of white cabbage, 10 green peppers, 2 red peppers, 10 cents' worth of whole yellow mustard seed, 1 teaspoonful of black ground pepper and 1 tablespoonful of salt. Chop the cabbage and peppers separately, and very fine, and mix all the ingredients thoroughly together. Put in earthen crocks, filling to within two inches of the tops and cover with best vinegar. Pickled Mangoes (Small, Green Musknielons). — Select green cantaloupe melons, about the size of a pint bowl ; cut out one lobe nicely, and carefully scrape out the seeds ; return the lobe, and tie a string around the melon to keep it in place. Put fifteen of these 32 498 PICKLES. melons in brine strong enough to bear up an egg ; keep them well under the brine, and l^t them remain for 6 days. Take them out and let them soak for 24 hours in fresh water. Remove from this water, wipe dry, and fill with the following stuffing: Make a filling of chopped cabbage, chopped green tomatoes, little onions, radish pods, young string beans, little peppers, tiny green cucumbers, and chopped horseradish. Any or all of those may be used. Spice with mustard-seed, a kw corns, and a clove or two to each melon. Moisten the mixture with vinegar, and fill each melon compactly. Replace the cut section and tie up well with cotton cord. Pack the melons in a jar, and cover with the following pickle : 2 quarts of cider vinegar, 2 cupfuls brown sugar, 1 tablespoonful cinnamon, 1 tablespoonful allspice, 1 teaspoonful cloves. Let this come to a boil and pour over the melons. Make twice the quantity, if necessary, or less, according to the amount of melons. To serve, remove the cord and lay the cut section by the side, in the pickle-dish. Give each person a portion of the melon and of the filling. These will be ready in a month. Peach Maugoes. — Take 4 quarts of large, ripe, free-stone peaches, firm to the touch. Cut open carefully, remove the stone, rub off the " fuzz." Lay in a strong brine. Let stand over night. Drain and rinse in cold water, wipe dry, being careful not to remove the skin, and fill the cavities with the following mixture: Mix in a bowl 2 tablespoonfuls of white mustard-seed ; half-dozen small onions, chopped fine; 2 tablespoonfuls grated horseradish root; 1 teaspoonful bruised celery seed. Fill the cavities in the peaches with this mixture, tie them up and put in a jar. Put in a preserving kettle sufficient cider vinegar to cover the peaches, to which add 24 whole cloves, the same quantity of allspice, and half an ounce of stick cinnamon. Stand this over the fire and bring it to the steaming point, but do not allow it to boil. Take it from the fire, and when cold, strain it over the peaches. Omit the onions if not liked. Add 1 tablespoon horseradish, and put in each peach a small piece of white ginger-root. Some cooks add 1 cupful of sugar to the vinegar. They are ready for use in a week, are better in a month, and good as ever in five years. Onion Pickles. — Peel, put in strong brine for 24 hours, remove and boil in milk and water for 10 minutes, (the milk helps to whiten PICKLES. 499 them). In peeling, leave the root in to keep the onion in shape. Drain well and place them in a jar, pouring on scalding hot vinegar. If spiced pickles be desired, place half a pound of " prepared spices," such as may be procured at the grocer's, in thin bags, and steep them into the vinegar 15 minutes. But if the whiteness that is so appetiz- ing in pickled onions is to be retained, the spices must be omitted. As the onions are placed in the jar, distribute sliced red pepper through them. These pickles present a very attractive appearance when put up in glass jars and sealed the same as canned fruit. Chow-chow (Mustard). — A mustard chow-chow is made of 3 quarts of cucumbers, 2 quarts of green tomatoes, 2 quarts of cauli- flowers, 2 of small onions, 1 dozen small green peppers, and half a dozen red peppers. Cut them up and let all stand in a weak brine over night, and in the morning drain in a colander. Then scald them in vinegar and drain again, and put in a stone jar. Make a paste with 1 cup of flour, 1 pound of mustard, 1^ pounds of sugar, and a generous gallon of vinegar. Put in a kettle and boil, stirring often. Remove from the fire, and add 1 ounce of turmeric, 1 ounce of white mustard seed, and 1 ounce of black mustard seed. Pour over the vegetables at once and cover. It is very nice to can these pickles hot. In the absence of cauliflower, the heart and white portions of a firm cabbage may be used. Shred an amount equalling 2 quarts. Omit beans, if hard to obtain. One dozen ears of sweet corn, cut from the cob, may be added. Mustard Pickle. — One quart each of small whole cucumbers, large cucumbers sliced, green tomatoes sliced and small button onions, 1 large cauliflower divided into flowerets, and 4 green peppers cut fine. Make a brine of 4 quarts of water and 1 pint of salt ; pour it over the mixture of vegetables and let it soak for 24 hours. Heat just enough to scald it and turn into a colander to drain. Mix 1 cup of flour, 6 tablespoonfuls of ground mustard and 1 tablespoonful of turmeric with enough cold vinegar to make a smooth paste. Then add 1 cup of sugar and enough vinegar to make 2 quarts in all. Boil this mixture until it thickens and is smooth, stirring all the time ; add the vegetables and cook until well heated through. Piccalilli. — One-half bushel green tomatoes, chopped ; 2 heads of cabbage, chopped ; 2 dozen large cucumbers, chopped ; 2 dozen large green peppers, shredded ; 2 dozen large onions, chopped. 500 PICKLES. Sprinkle 1 pint of salt over and through this mixture, and let stand all night. A sausage mill is best for chopping if one is handy. In the morning drain through a colander, or turn the whole mixture into a clean flour sack and press as dry as possible. (In chopping the tomatoes and cucumbers drain off as much juice as possible.) Put in a large pan, and mix with it one-fourth pound black mustard seed, one-fourth pound white mustard seed, 1 ounce of celery, or 4 heads of celery chopped fine ; 2 cupfuls brown sugar, 2 cupfuls of grated horseradish, 1 gallon of best cider vinegar, 1 tablespoonful each of cinnamon and allspice. Put over the fire and let cook 1 ^ hours after it begins to boil. Cook in porcelain kettle or stone jar. It is better to divide the quantity than to run the risk of scorching on the bottom. This pickle may be made without the cucumbers. Beet Chow-chow. — One gallon of chopped, cooked beets, 2 quarts of finely-chopped cabbage, 1 of grated horseradish, 1 of sugar, 1 tablespoon of salt, and black pepper to taste. Cover with vinegar, and set in a cool place. This will keep a long time. Pickled String- Beans. — Parboil the beans in slightly salted water. Drain and pack in cans. Turn over them hot spiced vinegar and seal. Pickled Sweet Corn. — Those who try this pickle once are sure to try it again. Chop 1 head of cabbage ; sprinkle over it 2 table- spoonfuls of salt and let stand over night. Cut the kernels from 12 ears of corn ; chop 2 peppers and mi.x with the cabbage. Bring a half gallon of vinegar to a boil ; add 1 cup of sugar and a quarter of a pound of mustard ; pour over the corn and cabbage. Smooth the mustard in a little cold vinegar before putting into the hot, to prevent lumps. In buying mustard use care to get the light-colored, first grade, as dark mustard spoils both taste and looks. Cherry Pickles. — Fill cans or bottles with cherries (ripe) on the stem. Turn over them cold spiced vinegar. Mace, nutmeg, and coriander seed m^iy be used. Tie up in a thin cloth and boil in the vinegar. Paste egg paper over the bottles. Do not use for six weeks. Mushroom Pickles. — Take a quart of button mushrooms, small and firm. Cut off the stems, and rub off the skins with a piece of flannel dipped in salt. Rinse in salt and water, drain, and dry with a cloth. Put a quart of good vinegar in a preserving kettle. Spice it to suit the taste. Tie the spices up in a piece of muslin, and boil in PICKLES. 501 the vinegar. One ounce of bruised ginger, half ounce of white pep- per in the kernel, half ounce mustard seed, 1 nutmeg, sliced or broken. Drop the mushrooms in the boiling vinegar, and boil 7 minutes. Skim out, and pack in jars or bottles. Bottles with corks are well suited for mushrooms, one small bag of spices going into each bottle. In case the spiced vinegar runs short, fill the vessel with cold vinegar, so as to cover the pickle. Beet Pickles. — Cook the beets until tender, and cut in pieces of an even size. Boil vinegar enough to cover them, together with a blade of mace, a piece of ginger root, and a piece of horseradish, and pour over the beets boiling hot; when cold, cork up. If to be kept long, seal hot, with egg paper. Cold sliced beets may be kept at least 2 months, by slicing a little horseradish in the vinegar. A little white sugar may also be added. Pickled Celery Roots. — Trim and cut the solid white roots of celery into thick slices. Boil in salted water 10 minutes. Drain, and pack in a jar. Pour boiling vinegar, spiced with whole peppercorns, over them. Let stand 24 hours. Pour off, mix mustard with it, and a little cayenne. Heat to boiling, and pour back. Cork, and paste over with egg paper. Root celery can be prepared in the same way. Pickled Peaches and Apricots. — Take fruit of a full growth, but perfectly green ; put in a strong brine. When they have been in a week, remove, wipe with a soft cloth, and lay in a pickle jar. Put to half a gallon of vinegar, quarter of an ounce of cloves, half an ounce of cinnamon, half ounce each of pepper, sliced ginger root and mus- tard seed. Boil the vinegar with the spices (tied in bits of thin cloth), and pour over the peaches boiling hot. Pour off the vinegar several times, re-heat and turn back. Vinegar. Apple Vineg-ar. — Excellent vinegar can be made from the sound cores and parings of apples used in cooking. Put in a jar, cover with cold water, and add half a pint of molasses to every 2 gallons ; cover the jar with netting; add more parings and cores occasionally. Rinse dishes that have held honey or preserves, and pour the rinsings in the vinegar jar. If a little apple sauce has soured, pour water over it, and after a few days' drain, not strain, the w^ter into the vinegar jar. Crabapple cores and trimmings are an addition. Some housewives 502 PICKLES. add the cold tea left from meals to make the necessary amount of fluid. Do not strain the vinegar except as it is needed for use. The sediment that is left after pouring it off from the parings will settle to the bottom. In making any kind of vinegar it hastens the process to put in a piece of " mother" from old vinegar. Some put in brown sugar, a piece of brown paper soaked in molasses, or a piece of bread soaked in yeast. Honey Viiieg-ar. — One quart of honey (clear) to 8 quarts of water. After fermentation a fine, white vinegar will result. Many make honey vinegar from the trimmings and rinsings in preparing honey for the market. It makes good vinegar. Potato Vinegar. — One gallon of water in which potatoes have been boiled, three-quarters of a pound of brown sugar, three-quarters of a cup of hop yeast. In a month clear good vinegar will result. Put in an earthen jar to ferment. Celery Vinegar. — A teacupful of celery-seed in a quart of vinegar. Prepare as above. This is a delicious seasoning for many dishes. Savory Vinegar. — Equal parts of tarragon, chives, a green chili, a clove or 2, and the thinly-pared rind of a lemon added to the quart of plain vinegar as before. These flavored vinegars improve any salad. Onion Vinegar. — Six large onions, 1 tablespoon of salt, 1 table- spoon of white sugar, 1 quart best vinegar. Chop the onions, strew on the salt, and let them stand 5 or 6 hours ; dissolve the sugar in the vinegar, scald the vinegar, pour it over the onions, put them in a jar, cover tight, and leave for a fortnight. Then strain and bottle. Sweet Pickles. Sweet Pickled Peaches. — A quart of vinegar, 4 pounds of sugar, an ounce of stick cinnamon and half an ounce of whole cloves to 7 pounds of prepared fruit. Tie the spices in muslin bags ; let the sugar and vinegar come to a boil ; skim ; put in the fruit; a little at a time ; cook till soft. Skim out the fruit into jars or cans, boil the syrup 15 minutes, pour over the fruit and seal. The above propor- tion is equally good for pears, plums, sweet apples and quinces. Put the spices into the vinegar with the sugar. Some cooks .stick a few cloves into each peach. If this is not done, prick each peach a few times. This prevents the skin from loosening. The peaches should be ripe and firm ; wipe them with a coarse cloth. PICKLES. 503 Peach Mangoes. — Take sound, ripe, free-stone peaches ; wipe, split and remove the pits. Fill the cavities with finely chopped to- matoes, grated horseradish and mustard seed. Put the halves to- gether ; tie each one. Pack in a jar, and cover with boiling syrup, made of 2 pounds of brown sugar to 1 quart of vinegar. Seal. Spiced Peaches. — Pare, stone and halve 9 pounds of peaches. Add 4 pounds of sugar, ] pint of vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of cloves (whole cloves), 3 or 4 sticks of cinnamon and mace. Let it boil one-half hour, or less if they grow too soft. Pickled Pear.s. — Use half as much sugar as you have fruit. Pare the fruit, leaving on the stems. Good brown sugar is richer than white. To 8 pounds of fruit, 1 quart of vinegar, 1 cup of mixed whole spice, allspice, cloves, stick cinnamon, a very little mace and some cassia buds. Do not use as much of the cloves as of the others. Tie the spices in one or more bags ; boil them in the vinegar and sugar. Skim well, and then add the fruit ; boil till scalded and tender. Skim out the fruit, and pack carefully in stone jars ; boil the syrup 5 minutes longer, then pour over the fruit. The next day pour off the syrup, boil again and pour again on the fruit. Do this for three suc- cessive days. Keep the bags of spice in the syrup, and lay one on top of each jar of fruit. For those who do not care for very sweet spiced fruits, the proportions maybe 4 pounds of sugar to 10 pounds of fruit. Delicious with all kinds of cold meats. Seckel pears are nice prepared in this way. Pickled Apples. — Scald together 1 quart vinegar (half water if very strong), 3 pounds of sugar and 2 ounces stick cinnamon ; add 7 pounds of pared apples, with 4 cloves stuck in each apple, and sim- mer very gently until tender. Large crabapples may be used in this way, but russet apples are best ; they are excellent in the early spring. When the apples are all cooked, boil the .syrup 5 minutes longer, and pour over the fruit. Leave in the spices. Sweet Pickled Citron. — Seven pounds of fruit, 2 pounds of sugar, 1 quart of vinegar, 1 tablespoon of whole cloves, allspice and a stick of cinnamon ; boil the fruit in 2 quarts of water and a small piece of alum until soft, pour off the water, boil vinegar, sugar and spices to- gether 20 minutes, drop the fruit in and let it simmer 1 hour. Seal up hot. If put in large jars unsealed, pour off the vinegar several times, scald and pour back on the fruit. 504 PICKLES. Pickled Siberian Crabapples. — Leave on the stems, but remove the blossom end. Select large, perfect fruit. Take G pounds of the fruit. Steam in a steamer until tender. Make a syrup of 3 pounds of sugar, lj4 pints of vinegar, 1 ounce of stick cinnamon, one-fourth ounce of whole cloves. Boil it 10 minutes, and skim. Put in the apples, and boil 5 or 10 minutes, but not enough to break, and can at once. Some prefer to omit the spices, and simply use the syrup of sugar and vinegar. Piclvled Watermelon (Sweet). — Use for these the rind of a good- sized watermelon. Pare and cut into thick slices and then in dice or fancy shapes. Boil 1 ounce of alum in a gallon of water and pour over the sliced melon, letting it stand on the back of the stove for half a day. Remove from the alum water and let it lie in cold water until cold ; drain. Have ready a quart of vinegar, 3 pounds of sugar, an ounce of stick cinnamon and half an ounce of cloves. Boil sugar and vinegar ; strain ; add the spices and rind, and boil until the rind is soft and clear. Seal up in jars hot, though they will keep without. They can be used in three weeks. If left unsealed, turn off the syrup several times in the first week, scald and pour back hot on the fruit. Sweet Pickled Musknielon. — Select cantaloupes or muskmelons not quite ripe. Cut into oblong pieces, and remove the rind and soft part near the seeds. Prepare the spiced pickle in the following pro- portions : To every 8 pounds of melon, take 1 pint of vinegar and 3 pounds of sugar. Mix half a teaspoonful each of ground mace and cloves, 1 teaspoonful each of ginger, allspice and cinnamon. Tie this mixture into a small piece of cheesecloth, and boil it with the vine- gar. Cook the melon carefully in the hot syrup until tender, then skim out into a large bowl. Boil the liquor down, and pour it over the fruit. Repeat this 3 or 4 times, and the last time heat all to- gether, then put into jars and seal. This pickle will keep without sealing. Or make precisely like Pickled Watermelon Rind. Ripe Cucumber Pickles (Sweet). — Peel large, ripe cucumbers ; cut in quarters lengthwise, remove the seeds and juicy pulp, and let them stand over night in a weak brine. In the morning drain and scald slightly in clear water, then cook until clear in a syrup made as follows : To every 10 pounds of cucumbers use 4 pounds of sugar, a quart of'vinegar, and a tablespoon each of whole cinnamon, mace and cloves. Put the sugar in the preserving kettle with a teacupful PICKLES. 505 of hot water; let it boil up, skim, and add the vinegar and the spices, the latter in a little cheesecloth bag. Pack in a stone jar and cover with the syrup boiled down quite thick. Greeu Cuciiuiber Pickles (Sweet). — Large, green cucumbers can be pared, seeded, cut in narrow strips, soaked in salt water and pickled same way as ripe cucumbers. Pickled Plums. — Take 7 pounds of plums, pour over them a pint of hot water, cover closely and steam till tender. Then add a pint of good vinegar, 4 pounds of brown sugar, and a tablespoonful each of cinnamon, allspice and cloves, with two-thirds of a teaspoonful of cayenne. Cover and simmer for half an hour, when they are ready for the cans. Before serving on the pickle dish remove the pits. If not sealed, heat the syrup three successive mornings and pour back on the plums. Pickled Blackberries. — Make a syrup of 3 pounds of sugar and a pint of vinegar, bringing it to a boil. Drop in the berries and cook till they are tender; then seal in jars; no spices being required. Pickled Berries. — Berries of any kind can be pickled in the same way. Spiced Blackberries. — Spiced blackberries are made very much like spiced currants. To 7 pounds of fruit allow half a pint of vine- gar and half a pint of blackberry juice, Sj4 pounds of granulated sugar, an ounce of powdered cinnamon, half an ounce of cloves and an ounce of powdered allspice. Let this preparation, cook steadily for about an hour or an hour and a half until it is thoroughly reduced. Spiced Berries. — Spiced berries of any kind — raspberries, cran- berries, currants, etc., can be made same as Spiced Blackberries. Spicpd Grapes. — Grapes make an excellent spiced fruit. To prepare them, pick from the stems 7 pounds of the ripe grapes and separate the pulp from the skins. Put the skins into a preserving kettle over the fire, v;ith enough water to prevent them from burn- ing. In another kettle place the pulp, and cook until it will press easily through a sieve to remove the seeds. Add the strained pulp to the skins, with half a pint of sharp vinegar and 1 ounce each of whole cloves, allspice and cinnamon. Boil together until it is thick, and put into jelly glasses. Pickled Quinces (Sweet). — Pare and core the quinces and cut into eighths; to 7 pounds of the fruit allow 4 pounds of sugar, a half 50G PICKLKS. ounce of ginger-root, 2 teaspoonfuls of ground allspice, the same of ground cinnamon, a pint and a half of vinega; , a teaspoonful of ground cloves, and one-half teaspoonful of ground mace. Mix the spices and divide into four parts; put each part in a small square of muslin, tie tightly, allowing room for the spices to swell. Put the sugar and vinegar into a porcelain-lined kettle, add the spices and the ginger- root scraped and cut into slices. When this comes to a boil, add the quinces. Take at once from the fire and stand aside in a cool place until the next day. Then drain off the liquor from the quinces, bring it again to the boil, pour it back over the quinces and let all remain till the following day. Repeat the operation several times, and the last day boil the quinces until tender. Then the liquor must be boiled down, until it forms a thick syrup; with this just cover the fruit, put in jars and tie up for keeping. Pickled Cherries. — Pick over the cherries carefully, put in a jar and pour over them hot spiced vinegar, made in the proportion of 1 pound of sugar to 1 pint of vinegar and 2 or 3 sticks of cinnamon. Boil, skim and pour over the fruit, which it should cover. Let stand a few days, pour off the vinegar and scald. Pour back boiling hot, seal at once, or let cool and simply tie closely. Sweet Beet Pickle. — Boil and slice, or cut in dice. Pour over them a hot, sweet pickle, made in the following proportions : One pound of sugar, 1 quart of vinegar, one-half teaspoonful of cloves, 1 teaspoonful of cinnamon. Tie spice in a cloth. Pour over beets hot. If to be kept, can at once. Pickled Cabbag-e (Sweet). — Pickle in the same manner as toma- toes. Use either red or white, slice thinly, do not steam, simply pack in jars after draining free from salt, and pour the boiling spiced vine- gar over. Mixed Sweet Pickles. — Slice tomatoes (green) and cabbage. Red cabbage will give the whole pickle a beautiful color. Pack in salt (pack separately); drain in the morning, strain the tomatoes, and pack cabbage and tomatoes in a jar, and pour over them the hot spiced vinegar, given in rule for tomatoes. Press down with a plate ; 1 quart of vinegar, etc., to 10 pounds of the mixed pickles. So MANY housekeepers are possessed with the idea that the preparation of ices and ice cream entails unHmited trouble and expense, that many families are needlessly deprived of these most refreshing hot wea- ther dainties. To begin with, it may be mentioned that a regular freezer is not an absolute necessity. Of course, it renders the prepa- ration of sherbet and ice cream much easier, but a tin bucket with tight fitting cover will answer all purposes, by placing it inside a wooden water bucket, and packing tightly around with ice and salt, in the proportion of one-fourth salt to three-fourths ice. In the absence of ice, a mixture of snow and salt will serve equally well. Most people make the mistake of trying to freeze their materials with ice broken into any and every size. It needs to be fine, almost as fine as the salt. If one has not a shaver for ice such as the ice- men use in making fine ice, lay the ice in a stout piece of crash, and smash it up on something solid, using a heavy hammer. You can break the ice by pressing a hat-pin into it, as the trained nurse does in the sick room. The finer your ice is broken, the sooner the cream will freeze. The ice in melting gives off heat, and many degrees colder is the melted ice and salt than the ice itself Alternate the salt and ice in packing, and cover the top with a newspaper to keep the air off, and prevent melting the ice where it will do no gooJ. Pour the cream into the pail, cover, then turn the pail by the hand round and round in the ice for a few moments. Take off the cover from the can, and with a spoon detach any of the cream which may have frozen to the side. Again put on the cover, continue to turn the handle, repeating from time to time the operation thus described, press- ing the cream down with a stout spoon to make it thoroughly smooth. Colors for Creams and Ices. — In the making of sherbets and creams, both artistic taste and prudence are required in the mntter of 507 508 ICES AND IC1<: CREAM. colorings. Here are some excellent suc^gestions for preparing pure vegetable tints that can be compounded at home, and are, therefore, devoid of all injurious substances. For amber, 4 ounces deodorized alcohol, 1 ounce turmeric. Shake till dissolved ; strain, and boltlc. It gives a bright gold color. Blue can be made by rubbing a piece of indigo on a plate with a little water until the required shade is obtained. Carmine has always a charming effect. Use 1 pint of water, half ounce of carmine, three- quarters ounce of aqua ammonia, F. F. P., 2 tablespoonfuls of rosewater. Put the carmine and ammonia, with a gill of water, into a bottle, shake till dissolved, add the rest of the water, and let it stand a day or two to settle. Pour off the clear liquid, add the rosewater, and keep tightly corked. For pistachio creams take spinach ; the green color, or juice, can be prepared as follows : Wash the leaves, drain them on a sieve, and pound them in a mortar to a pulp. Wring it through a strong mus- lin cloth as hard as possible, pound the pulp again with a very little water, wring it once more, and cook the juice in a farina boiler until it thickens like jelly. Drain it on a fine hair sieve, and cut the pulp through with a spoon upon a sheet of paper, and dry it to a thick paste. Add an equal bulk of pulverized sugar, work smooth, and bottle for use. There are, also, perfectly harmless color pastes, that can be purchased in large towns. Spinach Green. — Cook a peck of spinach in about a pint of water for 10 minutes, covering the pot it is in closely, then drain it and take it up. Lay it in a coarse cloth in a wooden bowl, and mash and pound it thoroughly ; then wring it in a cloth to extract every particle of juice that can be taken from it. A small quantity of this will give a perceptible green color to dishes in which it is used. Cooliineal Coloring-. — The cochineal coloring is made by taking an ounce of cochineal, 1 ounce of cream tartar, 2 drams of alum, and half a pint of water, and boil all, except the alum, together until they are reduced to one-half Then add the alum, and strain the mixture, and put it away in bottles for use. A few drops will color a consi- derable quantity, so the best way to use it is to take a drop at a time, till you have a deep-enough color. Packing Ice Cream. — Pack and freeze in the usual wn\', then as soon as frozen pack in newspapers all around, instead of putting in ICES AND ICE CREAM. 609 any more salt and ice; the newspapers will keep the ice already left in after freezing. This is a great saving of ice and keeps the cream frozen longer than any other way. Ice Cream Without Ice. — Nitrate of ammonia can be used for freezing instead of ice and salt by mixing, if a small freezer be used, 7 pounds of nitrate with 3 quarts of water. The freezer is then ro- tated, and the cream or water is quickly frozen, provided the material is first cooled down before applying the nitrate. The nitrate can be recovered for further use by evaporating the solution to dryness. Moulding Ice Cream. — If you wish to mould ice cream or serve it in forms, have your mould ready at the time you remove the dasher from the can, and also have ready a tub or bucket containing a mixture of coarse ice and salt. Moisten the mould with cold water, then fill it quickly with ice cream, pressing it down with a spoon to fill every part of the mould. Lay a piece of wax paper over the cream large enough to pro- ject beyond the edges when the lid is on ; put on the lid and imbed the mould in the tub of ice and salt ; cover with a piece of Ice Cream Freezer, carpet and stand aside for 1 or 2 hours. When ready to use, lift the mould from the ice, wipe it carefully, plunge it into a pan of warm water, remove the lid and paper, and turn the mould out carefully on a napkin placed on a pretty dish. If it should stick to the mould, wait for a moment, as the heat of the room will, as a rule, loosen it. Serve it in slices, unless it has been previously moulded in individual moulds. Moulds for Creams. — Individual moulds can be had in every possible shape, from cooing doves to full-blown roses, and beautiful, indeed, is the effect ; but their price seems exorbitant to the house- wife. One quart of cream will fill 10 pieces. The bleeding heart is another favorite. The heart is colored with carmine, and an arrow runs through it. This beautiful affair can be used for an engagement luncheon. At a smart dinner, ices in the shape of roses are piled high in a gilt basket, and one served to each guest. For a supper the candle is a unique addition well worth men- tioning. The candlesticks were made of different colored creams 510 ICES AND ICE CREAM. the candle itself being white. At the top was placed a small taper, which was lit as each guest was served. At a luncheon given to a debutante flowers were the artistic scheme. At each cover was a dif- ferent flower. The roses were frozen in yellow and red, pale pink and blush. The stem and leaves were of artificial make, and the effect can be imagined. Tulips and small sunflowers are treated in like manner. For lilies of the valley, the leaf above is frozen, and in the middle of it, just before the time for serving, are placed the deli- cate blossoms. Tutti-Frutti Flavoring. — The most delicious flavoring imagin- able for ices is made in this way. When the strawberries are ripe, take a quart of brandy, a pound of sugar and a pound of berries and put them all into a 2-gallon jar. Then as the raspberries and cur- rants, cherries, blackberries, grapes, peaches, apricots and other fruits come in their season, add to the contents of the jar, allowing to every pound of fruit three-quarters of a pound of sugar. No more brandy will be necessary. The one precaution to be taken is that the fruit must be stirred every day with a long-handled spoon in order to keep it from spoiling. This is only necessary during the hot weather, but it is a thing that must not be neglected. Alcohol may be used instead of brandy ; 1 pint. Ice Cream. "Easy" Cream. — One quart of new milk, 1 quart of sweet cream, 1 pint of powdered or granulated sugar, 2 eggs, whites of, beaten stiff, 1 large spoonful of va- nilla. Place on ice until thoroughly cold, and freeze. Excellent, and very easily prepared. Easy Cream Without Eggs. — Place the can in the freezer, pack with two parts pounded ice and one of salt. Pour 1 quart of cream and 1 pint of milk into the can. Into 1 level cup of sugar stir 2 teaspoonfuls of va- Ice Shredder. nilla ; add this to the cream, close the can, turn the crank slowly, increasing the speed as the cream hardens. When it turns with difficulty, remove beater, stir up con- tents with a spoon, cover, and set in a cool place for 2 hours. ICES AND ICE CREAM. 511 Ice Cream With Egrgrs. — Four eggs, 2 quarts of sweet milk, 1 quart of cream, 1 pint of sugar, flavoring. Beat the yolks into a foam, adding sugar, a little at a time, until dissolved; add sweet milk and the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Heat until at the boil- ing point, remove Irom the stove, and set away until perfectly cold. Add the cream, whipped stiff, to the mixture, flavor, and freeze. Ice Cream Without Egg-s. — Two quarts of sweet milk, 1 ^^ pounds of powdered or granulated sugar, 1 quart of cream, half tea- cupful of cornstarch or 1 scant teacupful of flour, lemon or vanilla fl ivoring. Take 3 pints of milk, put on to boil in a tin pail inside a k'cttle of boiling water, mix the cornstarch or flour in the remaining pint of milk until smooth, dissolve in it the sugar, and stir carefully into the boiling milk; when thick, remove from the fire and strain. When cold, flavor to taste, add the cream, and freeze. Vanilla Ice Cream. — Put in a saucepan, over the fire, 1 quart of milk, three-quarters of a pound of sugar, 3 tablespoonfuls of extract of vanilla and 8 yolks of eggs ; stir with an egg beater, and when be- ginning to thicken without boiling, strain the mixture and allow it to become cold. Place it in a freezer, and keep it in a frozen state until time for serving. Snow Cream. — If made with dry and soft snow it is equal to ice cream, and is made in a few minutes. One egg, half cup of sweet milk or sweet cream, one teaspoon of vanilla. Stir in enough snow to make it stiff. Dry snow is the thing to use. It can be made without the egg. Frozen Custard. — Put a quart of milk on the fire to heat. Beat the yolks of 6 eggs, with a teacupful of sugar, and stir into the milk. Let come to a boil, take from the fire, add a pint of very rich milk and the beaten whites of the eggs. Flavor with vanilla, then turn into a freezer and freeze. Lemon Ice Cream. — Squeeze the juice from 6 lemons, thicken with white sugar, add very carefully 3 pints of sweet cream, freeze hard. Fried Ice Cream. — A small, solid cake of the cream is enveloped in a thin sheet of pie crust, and then dipped in boiling lard or butter long enough to cook the outside to a crisp. Served immedi- ately, the ice cream is found to be as solidly frozen as when it was first prepared. The process of frying is so quickly accomplished, and 512 ICES AND ICE CREAM. the pastry is so good a protector, that the heat has no chance to reach the frozen cream. It is pronounced delicious. Coft'ee Ice Cream. — Put in a saucepan on the fire lyi pints milk, the yolks of 5 eggs, 14 ounces of sugar, and half a pint of very strong black coffee, Siir well with an egg beater, and when beginning to thicken, without boiling, strain your mixture and allow it to become cold, and freeze as vanilla ice cream. Chocolate Ice Cream. — One quart of sweet cream,, half a pound of granulated sugar, 2 ounces of chocolate melted over boiling water and stirred in slowly, 1^ teaspoons of vanilla. Freeze. Chocolate Moss. — One quart of sweet cream, sweetened, flavored, and whipped to a stiff froth ; drain it ; have 2 squares of chocolate melting in a basin ; set in hot water; stir carefully into the whipped cream, and put all into a pail or freezer, and freeze without stirring. When wanted for the table, wet a cloth in hot water, wrap around the pail until the cream slides out. Slice and serve. It looks like moss, and is delicious. Make in the morning and serve for tea. Pistachio Ice Cream. — To a pint each of milk and cream, allow half pound of pistachio nuts, quarter pound of sweet almonds, a cup of sugar, and juice of 1 lemon. Blanch the nuts and pound to a paste; bring the milk and cream to boiling; remove from fire, stir in the nuts, lemon juice, and sugar, and enough spinach coloring to tint the whole a light, dainty green. When cold, freeze. Chestnut Ice Cream. — To make this delicious ice cream use 2 quarts of cream, a cupful and a half of sugar, the juice and rind of an orange, a cupful of water, a gill of wine (the wine can be omitted and the juice of another orange used instead), and 30 French chestnuts. Shell and blanch the chestnuts, cover them with boiling water and cook for half an hour. Drain off the water, pound the chestnuts in a mortar, and then rub them through a puree sieve. Put the sugar, grated orange rind and water in a stewpan and place on the fire. Boil for 20 minutes, add the chestnut puree, and cook for 5 minutes longer. Take from the fire and add the orange juice and wine. When cold, add the cream and freeze. Wliite Cherry Ice Cream. — Put 2 cups of sugar and 1 cup of water in a saucepan over the fire. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, and let the syrup come to a boil. Drop in carefully 1 quart of Cali- fornia white wax cherries, and simmer gently 15 minutes, strain ICES AND ICE CREAM. 513 carefully, add a quart of cream to the syrup, and freeze. When it begins to turn hard, beat well, take out the dasher and stir in the fruit. Pack and let stand for two or three hours to ripen. Piueapple Ice Cream. — Three pints of cream, 1 pint milk, 2 ripe pineapples, 2 pounds sugar ; slice pineapples thin, scatter sugar over them, and let stand 3 hours. Cut or chop the fruit into the syrup and strain. Beat gradually into the cream, and freeze. Re- move a few bits of pineapple, and stir in cream when half frozen. Peach ice cream made in the same way is delicious. Caramel Ice Cream. — Allow, to a quart of cream and a pint of milk, three quarters pound of sugar and white of 1 egg. Place one- fourth pound of the sugar in a pan over the fire, and stir until it be- comes liquid and turns dark brown. Heat the milk to boiling (and one-half the cream), pour in the burnt sugar and stir a few minutes. When cold add the rest of the sugar and a teaspoon of vanilla. Mix well and freeze. When half frozen, add the remaining pint of cream, well whipped, and the white of the egg, well beaten, and finish freez- ing. In all cases where a freezer is used, the beater should be turned rather slowly at first, until the cream begins to congeal, and then quite rapidly, until the cream is so stiff that the beater can no longer be turned, when all salt should be carefully wiped off from the lid, the lid and beater removed, and the cream well beaten and pressed down with a wooden .spatula or spoon ; the cover may be replaced, a cork fitted tightly in hole in cover. The water should be drawn off, and more ice and salt added, then cover with a piece of carpet or blanket, and set away in cool place until needed. Cocoaimt Ice Cream. — For this, take a quart of cream, a pint of milk, 13^ cups of sugar, 3 eggs, a cup of desiccated cocoanut, and the juice and rind of 1 lemon; beat together the eggs and grated lemon rind, add this to the milk in a double boiler, and stir until it begins to thicken ; then add the cocoanut, and set away to cool ; when cold, add the sugar and lemon juice mixed together; then stir in the cream and freeze. Currant and Raspberry Ice Cream. — To a pint of cream and a pint of milk allow a quart of red raspberries, half a pint of currants and 2 cupfuls of sugar ; bring the milk and cream to boiling point, remove from the fire, stir in 1 cupful of sugar until dissolved, and set the liquid away to cool; wash the raspberries and currants, and either 33 514 ICES AND ICK CREAM. Ice Cream Disher. rub them through a fine sieve or else strain them through coarse muslin, being sure that no seeds are left in the juice; then add the remaining cupful of sugar; when the cream has become cold, add to it the juice, and freeze. Curraut Ice Cream. — Mash 2 pounds of red ripe currants ; add a pound of sugar to them, and let stand fur 2 hours; strain and add the juice to a quart of thick, sweet cream; if not sufficiently sweet, add more sugar; pour in a freezer, let stand 10 minutes and freeze. Almond lee Cream. — To a quart of cream and a pint of milk, allow a pint of water, a pint of blanched almonds, the yolks of 5 eggs^ and 1 j/ cups of sugar ; place the almonds in a frying-pan, and stir them over the fire until they become of a rich brown hue, then pound them to a paste in a mortar; cook the milk and pounded almonds together for 20 minutes, being careful not to allow it to scorch ; boil the water and sugar together for 25 minutes ; beat the yolks of the eggs and stir them into the boiling syrup; beat this mixture for 4 minutes, then remove from fire and stir it gradually into the almonds and milk ; strain the mixture through a sieve, pressing through as much of the almonds as possible ; set away to cool ; while cooling, stir occasionally ; when cold, add the cream and half tea- spoon of almond extract; freeze. Blueberry Ice Cream. — Blueberry ice cream is rather odd, and yet altogether delicious. To make it use 1 quart of large ripe blue- berries, 1 quart of cream, 1 cupful of sugar, and 1 teaspoonful of vanilla extract. Freeze the cream for 15 minutes. Remove the beater and stir in the blueberries. Pack in a mould or in a freezer and let stand for an hour or more. Raspberry Ice Cream. — To a pint of milk and a pint of cream allow a scanty pound of sugar, a quart of raspberries and white of 1 egg; heat the milk and cream to boiling point, take off the fire, add the sugar (one-half) and set away until cold ; mash the raspberries with the rest of the sugar, and as soon as the milk has cooled, add the raspberries and freeze ; when the cream is half frozen, add the well- beaten white of the egg and finish freezing. ICES AND ICE CREAM. 515 Peach Ice Cream. — Place in a double boiler 1 pint of milk and a generous pint of sugar. Put over the fire and let it boil 20 minutes. Peel and slice enough sound, ripe peaches to make a quart ; rub them through a sieve and add to the boiling milk with the yolks of 3 eggs well beaten. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring all the time. Take from the fire and stir a few moments. When cold, add a half teaspoonful of almond extract and 1 quart of cream, and freeze. Orang-e Ice Creaiii. — Grate the yellow peel (none of the white) from 3 large oranges. Add the juice of the oranges, mixed with a cup of sugar and the yolks of 6 eggs. Stir 1 pint of boiling milk gradually into the eggs. It must not curdle. Add a pint of perfectly fresh cream, and if the mixture is not a good yellow, a drop or two of the yellow French coloring liquid used by confectioners and caterers. These vegetable colorings are perfectly safe and often add considera- bly to the appearance of the dish. Freeze the ice cream as usual and dish it out in little round forms, about the size of small oranges. There is a scoop for the purpose of dishing ice cream which serves it in a perfectly round, symmetrical form. It costs but 25 cents, and can be found at any shop supplying bakers' and confectioners' utensils. These are nice to serve any cream with. Strawberry Ice Cream. — One quart of cream, 1 quart of straw- berries, 1 pound of sugar, juice of 1 lemon. Put half the sugar and half the cream on to boil in a farina boiler. When the sugar is dis- solved, stand aside to cool. Add the remaining half of the sugar and the lemon juice to the berries, mash and stand aside 1 hour, then strain through a fine muslin. Add the remaining half of the cream to the sweetened cream and freeze. When frozen stir in the fruit juice, beat thoroughly, repack and stand away to harden. Tutti-Frutti Ice Cream. — To every quart of rich vanilla cream, partly frozen, add 1 pint of mixed almonds, citron and mixed French candied fruit chopped fine. Finish freezing, add one-quarter of a cup of orange juice and put away to ripen. Frozen Strawberries. — Stem and wash 1 quart of the ripe ber- ries. Mash them with a wooden spoon, add 1 pound of granulated sugar and the juice of 2 lemons ; mix and let it stand an hour; then add 1 quart of water and let it freeze. See that the sugar is thor- oughly dissolved before turning the mixture into the freezing can. This may be served as soon as frozen. Delicious. 516 ICES AND ICE CREAM. Frozen Raspberries. — Prepare in precisely the same manner as Frozen Strawberries. Frozeu Oranges. — Boil together for 10 minutes 1 cupful of water, half a cupful of sugar, and the grated yellow rind of 2 oranges. Add to this preparation the juice of four oranges ; cool and freeze. Boil 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar with 3 of water for 2 minutes. Beat this into the white of 1 egg that has been beaten to a stiff, dry froth. Stir this meringue into the frozen mixture, and it is ready to serve. Frozen Clieri'ies. — Two quarts of pie or morel lo cherries, or 1 -quart can, 2 pounds of sugar, 1 quart of water. Stone the cherries, mix them with the sugar and stand aside 1 hour ; then stir until the sugar is thoroughly dissolved. Add the water, put into the freezer, and turn rapidly until frozen. This will serve 10 persons. Frozen Banana. — Peel half a dozen fine, ripe bananas, and slice with a silver knife. Mash fine. Boil half a pint of water and half a pound of sugar for 5 minutes; when cool, strain and add, with the juice of an orange, to the bananas. Put in the freezer, and when frozen stir in a half pint of whipped cream. Let stand for an hour. This will serve six persons. Banana Glace. — Frozen bananas are very nice, served as a sweet course at a luncheon in the place of ices or ice cream. Get the best bananas you can find, with the skins as perfect as possible. Peel one section — that is, turn it back carefully without separating from the rest of the skin — and take out the fruit. Mash the pulp, and to each cupful of it add a pint of whipped cream and sugar to taste. Fill the banana skins with the mixture, shaping it as much like the fruit as possible. Cover so that skins will not appear to be broken, and pack in an ice cream can. Make a freezing mixture of salt and ice, as for ice cream, and let them stand from 2 to 3 hours. If you choose, the pulp may be colored with strawberry juice, but must not be thinned too much, or there will be trouble in packing the fruit Frozen Watermelon. — Split a ripe melon into halves, scoop out centre, rejecting seeds. Put this in a bowl and, with a silver knife or spoon, chop the melon into small pieces; add juice of 1 lemon and half pound of powdered sugar. Throw this in a freezer, pack as usual, and turn very slowly for 10 or 15 minutes, until the mixture is like soft snow. Serve in glasses. If you use wine, at serving time put 1 teaspoonful of sherry in each glass. ICES AND ICE CREAM. 517 Frozen Peaches. — Prepare same as Frozen Cherries, cutting the fruit in bhces and adding 1 pound of sugar to the quart of shced fruit. When frozen, the stiffly-beaten white of an egg may be stirred in, and it may either be packed away an hour or served at once. Peaches and Cream. — If one has an ice-cream freezer, peaches and cream are ahnost equal to ice cream. Prepare as for the table fresh, juicy peaches; season them liberally with cream and sugar, place some of the quarters on the bottom of the mould, then fill. Freeze the mass solid without stirring. It will usually take 1}4 to 1^ hours. Turn out and serve immediately. Frozen Apples. — Take finely-flavored apples, grate them, make them very sweet and freeze them. This is a delicious dish. Pears and quinces, grated (or stewed and run through a sieve), then made very sweet and frozen, are also very nice. The flavor is much better preserved when the fruit is grated. Peach Granito. — Half-dozen peaches, skinned and chopped. Make a syrup of a cupful of sugar and a little less water. Season with lemon, pack in salt and ice. When nearly frozen, add the whites of two eggs firmly whipped, mix and mould. Orang-e Granito. — Mix 1 pint of orange juice with 3 pints of sugar syrup, made as follows : Dissolve 2 pounds of sugar in 2 pints of cold water; next add the juice of 2 lemons and the thin peel of one; strain through a fine sieve, pour into a well-packed freezer and freeze for 5 minutes ; then take off" the cover, cut the frozen parts loose from the sides of the freezer, turn for a few minutes longer and serve. Frozen Frnits. — One or more fruits may be used in this dish. They should be divided into convenient portions and dressed with sugar to taste. This combination is placed in the can of a freezer and salted ice packed round it. After an hour, cut the congealed portions away from the side of the can, renew the ice and salt, and let it stand until frozen, which will require about three hours. Frozen Pudding-. — Fill the mould with, first, slices of sponge cake, then sliced bananas, then some smooth jelly (orange or lemon is nice), then macaroons, and so on till the mould is full. Make a steamed custard, in which dissolve a teaspoon of gelatine. When cool, not cold, pour over the pudding and pack as before directed and serve with sauce. Or flavor 1 quart of ice cream with 1 teaspoon each of m ICES AND ICE CREAM. extract of vanilla, orange and rose water. When partly frozen, add a mixture of cherries, plums, apricots, pears, strawberries, peaches, or use figs, dates, raisins, currants and citron. A tablespoon each of Madeira wine and Jamaica rum can be used in the place of the extracts. Tuscan Pnddinj*-. — Make a boiled custard with 1 pint of milk, sweetened with half a cup of sugar, boiled and j^oured on .'> beaten eggs. Return the mixture to the saucepan and stir until it thickens, but do not let it curdle, as it will if it boils for more than a second. When cool add 1 pint of cream, half a cup of sugar, a quarter of a box of gela- tine, dissolved and strained, half a teaspoonful of vanilla, a quarter of a teaspoonful of essence of lemon, 20 drops of extract of bitter almond. Put in a mould with smooth sides and pack in ice and salt. The pro- portion is 2 quarts of broken ice to 1 of coarse salt, well mixed. In an hour remove the mould, and after wiping it carefully uncover it, and with a knife scrape the frozen cream from the sides. Beat it thoroughly, as this makes the texture fine and smooth. If it is nearly frozen, add half a pound of sweet almonds, blanched and chopped fine, half a pound of candied ginger, cut in small pieces, and half a pound of citron prepared in the same way. If the cream is not very stiff return the mould to the ice, repeat the process in three-quarters of an hour, and add the nuts, ginger and citron after the second beating. Strawberry Ice Cream Piuldiiig-. — Whip 1 quart rich, sweet cream until thick, add 2 cups powdered sugar, and, lastly, stir 1 quart ripe strawberries through the cream ; fill this into a pudding form with a tube in the centre ; cover lightly, and put a strip of buttered paper around the edge of the cover, so that the water cannot enter, and pack in ice and salt ; cover with a heavy woolen cloth or blanket, and let stand 4 hours. When ready to serve, lift from ice, remove ICKS AND ICE CREAM. 519 the paper, wipe off the form, dip it in hot water, turn the pudding onto a dish, and serve at once. Nesselrode Pudding-. — Three cups of chestnuts, shell and blanch, simmer until soft, drain and rub through a colander. Cut 1 pound of French fruit candied in small pieces and cover with half cupful sherry wine. (Half cupful rose-water can be substituted for the wine.) Boil 2 cupfuls of sugar and 1 cupful of water 15 minutes. Beat into it the well-whipped yolks of eggs. Stir over the fire until the mixture thickens slightly; then remove from fire and beat until cold. Add the nuts and 1 pint of cream. Flavor with 1 teasponful vanilla. Put in freezer and work until partly frozen. Stir in the candied fruit and finish the freezing. Then pack the mould for 2 hours to set. Iced Rice Puddiug-. — This delicious pudding is made from half a cupful of rice, 3 eggs, 2 cupfuls of milk, half cupful of sugar, and a pint of whipped cream. Boil the rice until tender, putting it on to cook in a pint of cold water, add a pinch of salt, and when cooked nearly dry, put the rice in your double boiler with 2 cupfuls of milk. Cook until all the milk is absorbed, and then put through a sieve. Return the rice to the boiler, add the 3 eggs beaten until light, and the sugar. When cold flavor, mix thoroughly with the whipped cream, beating it into the rice, and freeze. Ices. Ices are generally looked upon as a somewhat expensive luxury, but if made according to the following directions, they can be suc- cessfully produced at a very small cost, and with very little trouble. All that is required is a zinc pail and a freezing pot ; a small biscuit tin or a round cocoa tin, capable of holding a pint of liquid, will answer the purpose very well. For water ices allow equal quantities of the juice of fresh fruit and water, which has been sweetened and colored to taste, adding a little lemon juice and the beaten white of an egg, to every pint of liquid. Care should be taken not to make any mixture to be frozen excessively sweet, or it will be difficult to obtain a satisfactory result; on the other hand, it should be sufficiently sweet, or the ice will be hard and rough in appearance. The ices should be served in fancy paper cases, placed on a small glass plate. A much longer time is required for freezing water ices than 520 ICKS AND ICE CREAM. creams. The juice of all fruits may be used to flavor them, and whert they may not be obtained fresh, syrups may be substituted. Water ices may be moulded, if desired, as other ices. An ice is made of fruit juice, ice, and water. A sherbet must be beaten white. To make a water ice very nice, some cooks clarify the sugar. Take sugar and water, in the proportion of a pound of sugar to a pint of water. To make 2 quarts of water ice, take, for example, 2 pounds of sugar to a quart of water, adding to them about the fourth part of the white of an egg, well beaten up, and boil for 10 minutes. Leave the mixture to cool, and when it is cold put in the flavoring. Lemon Ice. — Squeeze the juice from 6 lemons, and grate the peel of 3 of them ; also take the juice and rind of a large sweet orange. Let the orange and lemon peel steep in the juice 1 hour; then strain through a bag, squeezing the bag dry. Roil 1 pint of sugar and 1 pint of water together to form a .syrup ; strain ; when cool, stir in the other ingredients and freeze. A lemon ice can be made by simply making a very rich, sweet lemonade, and freezing it, but it is not quite so rich. Orange Ice. — Make as above, using fruit in the proportion of 6 oranges to 1 lemon. Currant Ice. — Put a pint of sugar into a quart of boiling water, and boil for half an hour. Then add a pint of currant juice and the juice of 2 lemons. When cold, freeze. The lemon can be omitted. Pineapple Ice. — One can chopped pineapple, or 2 fresh pine- apples, grated ; add to it the juice of 2 lemons, 1}4 pounds of sugar, and 1 quart of water. Freeze in an ice-cream freezer. Delicious. Grape Water Ice. — Take a pint of grape juice, an equal measure of sugar, and a quart of water. Make a syrup of the sugar and water ; when it is cold, add the grape juice, and freeze as for other fruit ices. Cherry Ice. — Two cups cherry juice, a quart of water, 2 large cups of sugar. Mix and freeze. The ice is nicer if the sugar and water are first made into a syrup, and cooled before adding the fruit juice. To flavor, crack a number of the cherry pits and rub to a paste in a mortar, or some other way, and put with the cherries be- fore straining them. Some cooks add the juice of 1 lemon. Strawberry Ice. — Ripe strawberries, mashed and pounded in a bowl of sugar in the proportion of a pint of berries to one of sugar, allowed to stand, strained, mixed with a pint of ice water and the juice ICES AND ICE CREAM. 521 of 1 lemon, and frozen without stirring, make a delicious water ice. A teaspoonful of orange-flower water adds to the flavor. Blackberry Ice. — Make after the same rule as Strawberry Ice. Tapioca Ice. — One cup of tapioca soaked over night. In the morning put it on the stove, and, when boiling hot, add 1 cup of sugar, and boil till clear. Chop 1 pineapple, stir together with tapi- oca and put into moulds. Serve ice cold, with sugar and cream. Sherbets. Lieinoii Sherbet. — Six lemons, 4 eggs, whites of, 2 pints of sugar, 1 pint of water. Make a thick syrup of 1 pint of sugar and 1 pint of water, when cold, thin with the juice of 6 lemons and enough water to make rich lemonade. When half frozen, add the following: Take the remaining pint of sugar, moistened with water, boiled into very soft candy ; while hot, add the stififly beaten whites of the 4 eggs, flavor with vanilla, add a little cream of tartar, beat hard until thick and add to the half-frozen lemonade. The result will be found to be a most delicious sherbet. liemon Sherbet — II. Sometimes lemon jelly made with gela- tine will not solidify. In such a case, add 2 stiff whites of eggs and a little sugar to a quart of the jelly, and freeze it as lemon ice. It will be found to be delicious, and that the egg removes the coarse, snowy taste of the average water ice. A lemon sherbet is some- times made like lemon jelly with gelatine and frozen. Strawberry Sherbet. — Mash 2 quarts of strawberries with 2 pounds of sugar, and let the mixture stand an hour or more. Squeeze in a straining cloth, pressing out all the juice. Add an equal mea- sure of water, and when half frozen add the beaten whites of eggs in the proportion of 3 eggs to a quart. Orangre Sherbet. — Grate the rinds of 4 oranges and steep them 10 minutes in a pint of water. Strain this upon 1 pound of sugar, add a pint of orange juice, and when cold pour into the freezer. When half frozen add the whites of 4 eggs beaten to a stiff froth. The juice of 1 lemon will assist the flavor. Apricot Sherbet. — Three cupfuls of apricots, cut fine ; 1 cupful sugar ; 2 cupfuls water ; kernels of one-half the apricots ; 2 whites of eggs. If the fresh fruit be used, reserve 1 cupful of the ripest. Stew the other 2 cupfuls with the kernels in the water and sugar 5 minutes. r>2'2 Ices and ice cream. Rub the fruit through a strainer, with the syrup ; pour into the freezer. Wlien nearly frozen, add the whites of 2 eggs, Well beaten, and turn the freezer a few minutes longer. Stir in the cut apricots just before serving. Canned apricots can be used, and if in syrup that can be added also. Pineapple Sherbet. — Pare and grate 2 large pineapples, or use 1 can, which cut in small dice, and use the syrup. Place 1 quart of water, with 1 ^ pounds of sugar, over the fire to boil. Boil 5 minutes. When cold add juice of 2 good-sized lemons and the grated pineapple. Turn into the freezer and stir until frozen. Beat the white of 1 egg to a stiff froth, add to it 1 tablespoonful powdered sugar; beat again. Remove the dasher, stir in the egg, and repack. Stand aside for 2 hours to ripen. Grape Sherbet. — Put in a saucepan half a pound of granulated sugar and 1 quart of water. Let it boil a few moments ; take from the fire and add the juice of 1 lemon and a tablespoonful of gelatine that has been dissolved in a gill of water. When cool, add a half pint of juice from any dark, rich grape, and turn into a freezer and freeze. When frozen, and before you remove the beater, add the white of an egg beaten to a froth, with 1 tablespoonful of powdered sugar. Stir thoroughly into the sherbet, cover and repack, and stand in a cool place for 2 hours. Milk Sherbet. — Squeeze 3 large lemons or 4 small ones, and to the juice add 2 cups of sugar and 1 teaspoonful of lemon essence; then put in 1 quart of milk and freeze. This is considered delicious. Sorbets. Sorbets are merely a variation of water ices, secured by adding various wines and liquors to the original water ice. A ver}' colorable imitation, in these days when so many people deprecate the use of much strong liquor, is to use the liqueur syrups, which contain no alco- hol, or else to substitute the lighter "granito," which abroad is used at any time of the day to quench thirst. Of course these are, strictly speaking, not "sorbets" at all, as this word has come to signify a water ice strongly fortified with alcohol, but at the same time they are much more like the original " sherbet," and are very tempting. Sor- bets may be served in old-fashioned wineglasses. Venetian glass china cups, or plain Nuremberg beakers, as may be most convenient. ICES AND ICE CREAM. 523 Sorbets are always nicer if garnished with fresh fruit correspond- ing to or contrasting with the fruit used in the sorbet itself; and this fruit should always be, so to speak, marinaded with either wine, spirit, lemon juice, liqueur or liqueur syrup, and caster sugar, and set either in the ice cave or in ice for an hour or so before using. Banana Sorbet. — Banana sorbet is a most palatable ice. Peel and pound half a dozen ripe bananas and add a teacupful of loaf sugar, the juice of a lemon, and a pint of water. Half freeze and add a wine- glass of any liquor before completing the process. It is never pos- sible to freeze sorbets as firm as plain water ices. The spirits prevent complete congealing. Sorbet tie Raisin au Xeres. — To a pint of lemon water ice add a wineglassful of elderflower water and 2 good wineglassfuls of sherry. Punch Sonffle a la Francaise. — Pour a pint of perfectly boiling water on 2 ounces of good tea, and let it infuse for 5 minutes ; then strain it off, and let it get cool. Whip 4 raw yolks of eggs for 5 min- utes with 3 ounces of sugar, the strained juice of 1 large or 2 small lemons, and a spoonful or so of arrack or good rum, and to this add the cold tea, gradually whipping it all the time ; then strain it, add to it half a pint of very thick and stiffly whipped cream, put it into a ready-papered souffle mould, and freeze in the charged ice cave for 2 or 3 hours. The great point to observe in making this punch is to have the tea good, and to be particular as to the water, which must be freshly boiled, and just boiling when poured on to the tea leaves. This is scarcely a sorbet, but it is nevertheless a form of punch which has met with much success. There is also a form of sorbet, or rather of water ice, much liked in Italy, called a " granito," a water ice com- posed of plain sugar and water syrup, and fruit or wine, but not spirit. Wild Cherry and Almond Sorbet. — One quart water, 1 pint white sugar, juice of 1 lemon, 6 sweet almonds, blanched and pound- ed ; 1 bitter almond, a wineglassful of wild cherry syrup. Freeze in a freezer ; when half frozen, add the beaten whites of 3 eggs. Serve in glass cups. The yolks of the eggs can be used in the mayonnaise dressing for the celery salad. There are only a few of these sorbets given, since it is not the purpose of this book to give recipes that make use of wine in their composition. Coffee. — The best coffee will be found to be a mixture of two-thirds Java with one-third Mocha. Buy ready roasted unless you own a rotary roaster ; keep in an air-tight jar, and grind only as required. When eggs are plen- tiful and cheap save all the shells ; when they have accumulated, crush them very fine and dry them. Beat half a dozen eggs and stir the shells " into the mixture ; spread and dry quickly. Put into a thin muslin bag and hang near the fire, to keep the contents dry. When eggs are high or scarce, a tablespoonful of this mixture, soaked in cold water several hours, will settle coffee as well as a whole egg. Heat dry coffee before pouring on the water. Put the ground coffee in the pot, and then shake it about on the stove until thoroughly heated, and then pour on the boiling water. In this way the heated ground coffee imparts to the fluid an extra pungency of flavor and richness. Tea or chocolate should never be served with fried foods. Always serve coffee with fried oysters, fish, or lobsters, also with cheese. Milk which has changed may be rendered fit for use again by stirring in a little soda. How to detect Cliickory in Grouud Coffee. — Shake a spoonful of coffee with a wineglass of cold water, and then place the glass on the table. If the coffee is pure, it will rise to the surface and scarcely color the liquid ; but if not, it will sink to the bottom and the water will be tinged red. The art of "Pouring"." — Few hostesses understand the art of pouring tea and coffee, simple as it appears. As a rule, the guest of honor is offered the first cup, which is the weakest, and the children, if served at all, are given the last and strongest. When it is desirable to have all the cups of uniform strength, one should pour a little into each, and then begin over again, reversing the order. In England this is so well understood that a pourer of tea or coffee does not begin to replenish the cups till all are before her. Dripped Coffee — An ideal cup of coffee can, it is said, be made only in one way. The coffee must be of the best quality, roasted, 524 TABLE DRINKS. 525 ground immediately, and used as quickly as possible. The best kind of coffee-pot is one that has a filter. They can be had of many sizes and shapes, all the way from simplicity to an extreme of elegance. To secure a good infusion quickly, the ground coffee should be placed in the cylinder on top of the coffee-pot, the strainer should be pressed down on top of the coffee, and the boiling water should be poured over so that the infusion runs slowly. While it filters, the pot ought to stand in a vessel containing very hot water, so that the infusion may keep a high degree of heat without allowing it to boil. Boiling is the spoiling of coffee. Have ready the cups, heated by pouring boiling water in them ; put in the required quantity of cream and sugar, then fill up with the distilled nectar from the coffee-pot, and one has a beverage that is a revelation. Steamed Coffee. — Put the required amount of coffee and water in the coffee-pot. Set this in a kettle of boiling water. Let it boil half an hour or longer. The coffee will need no settling, and will be clear as crystal ; or, a tin inside may be made for the coffee-pot, after the style of a dripper, only without the perforations, and somewhat deeper. Put 4 or 5 inches of water in the coffee-pot. Hang the inner compartment inside, and in this put the coffee and water. Let boil. This is one of the best ways known for preparing coffee, and also an economical one as stronger coffee can be made from a less amount than in any other way. 526 TABLE DRINKS. Boiled Coffee. — One tablespoonful for each person to be served, and 1 for the pot. Put the coffee in the pot with part of an egg, unless already prepared as above given ; pour over it 1 cupful cold water, and let steep. When the water in the kettle boils add the necessary amount, and let boil 5 minutes. Pour out half a cupful before serv- ing, to clear the strainer. This (if no other precaution is used), turned back into the can from a little distance above it, will usually clear the coffee thoroughly. To retain the aroma while boiling, close up the spout. Mering-uetl Coffee. — Make the coffee the usual way. Put into each cup the desired amount of sugar and a tablespoon boiling milk. Make a meringue by mixing the white of an egg, well beaten, with one-half pint of whipped cream. Lay a heaping spoonful upon the top of each cup before serving. Sweet Corn Coffee. — Try it for the sick ones. Take nice sweet corn, fan out all the hulls and silk, roast it in the oven ; do not let it burn, but keep watch of it, /^ ^'-^ i-rrga'^** ^^^ have it a rich brown ; \^ __^ ^^^"i^ pound it or grind it. Take 2 tablespoonfuls to a little water, let it steep a {cvi min- utes, strain, serve with cream Tea or Coffee Strainer. and sugar, or take it clear. It is very nice, and is considered palatable by most coffee drinkers. Cafe-au-Lait. — Prepare 1 quart of strong, hot coffee in any pre- ferred manner. Strain into a hot coffee-pot. Add an equal amount of boiling milk. Cover closely with a thick cloth for 5 minutes before serving. Whip the whites of 3 eggs to a stiff froth. Sweeten to the taste, and put 1 large spoonful of this in each cup. Cafe-mi- lait may be made without this last addition. Substitute for Cream. — Beat up a fresh egg in a basin and then pour boiling tea over it gradually, stirring constantly to prevent curd- ling. Make it the consistency of thick cream. Or, boil milk in a double boiler until it thickens ; the beaten yolk of an ttgg is an addi- tion. Iced. Coffee. — Take strong coffee, one-half the amount of milk, a generous seasoning of cream, and sweeten to taste. Put in a refrig- erator directly on the ice until thoroughly chilled. TABLE DRINKS. 527 Creamed Coffee. — To 5 cups of good clear coffee add 1 cup of cream and bring to boil. Eg-g' Coffee. — A novel drink for the breakfast on a hot morning is " egg coffee," which, with bread and fruit to make up the necessary bulk for the stomach, has been found an excellent repast. If the coffee is to be served cold, shake an egg, some bits of sugar and ice together, then add cold cafe-aii-lait. If hot liquid is used, put the ^^^, cream and sugar in a glass, and shake thoroughl}% then add the hot coffee, stirring quickly all the time. Cafe a la Deliiionico. — This is a delicious luncheon, or " high tea," drink. To the making of it goes the tall glass of splintered ice, the pow- dered sugar, the hot coffee, which is cold by the time it gets to the bot- tom of the glass, and, to top off, a generous spoonful of stiffly whipped cream. This is to be stirred into the coffee as it is drunken. The flavor is exquisite. Syrup of Coffee. — Syrup of coffee is useful for those who wish to take coffee with them on a journey in as small a quantity as possi- ble. Make it thus : Take a pound of best freshly-ground coffee and place it in a saucepan with 5 pints of water and boil it down to 1 pint. Strain the liquor, and when it is nearly cold place it in another saucepan to boil again. As it boils add sufficient loaf sugar to make it of the consistency of syrup. Let the sugar thoroughly dissolve, then boil up, take it from the fire, and when cold bottle and seal it. When required for use place a teaspoonful of the coffee in a breakfast cupful of boiling water or milk, whichever is preferred. Tea. Although the process of making this favorite beverage is exceed- ingly simple, there is really no article of daily consumption which meets with greater failure in the preparation. The very best quality ^m Tea Kettle. 628 TABLE DRINKS. should always be procured ; one should never begrudge the money which is spent in such a cause of health and pleasure. The water with which the tea is to be made should be freshly drawn from the Five O'clock Tea. faucet, and put into a kettle which is perfectly clean. The water should then be brought quickly to boiling point, for long simmering makes it flat and lifeless, and it should not be allowed to boil longer than 5 minutes before being used for this purpose, for, in this way, TABLE DRINKS. 529 through long boiling, the water loses most of its gas. Tea should 7ievcr be boiled. After tea stands a while, the tannic acid which it contains develops and makes it bitter. The tea-pot should always be thoroughly cleansed after being used and carefully put away. An earthenware or china tea-pot should always be used; a tin one should never, on any account, be employed, for if the tea is left standing in it for any length of time it becomes absolutely poisonous and unfit for use. The Chinese never use milk or sugar. To do so spoils the flavor of the tea. Keep tea in little caddies with closely-fitting covers to keep the flavor. A Cup of Good Tea. — A mixed tea is preferred by most tastes. A good mixture is one- third black and two-thirds green. Some pre- fer half-and-half If strong tea is desired, use 1 teaspoonful for each person. Otherwise less may be used. Some teas require to be steeped much longer than others, in order to properly extract their flavor and strength, but this can only be learned by experience. The tea-pot should be well scalded by rinsing it out with boiling water, then, while it is still hot, the necessary amount of tea should be placed therein, and a sufficient quantity of the boiling water should be added to thoroughly saturate it. This should be left under a tea-cosy or upon the back of the stove to steep for about 5 minutes, after which time the required quantity of boiling water should be poured in and the tea should be served at once. Count the water by cupfuls until the capacity of the tea-pot is ascertained. This beverage should be made just before wanted for the table and should be used at once. A very excellent plan adopted by many English families is to have the tea brewed upon the table. A silver kettle of water should be placed upon the table in the dining- room, brought to the boiling point by means of a small alcohol lamp which is attached to the kettle beneath. The steeping is then accom- plished by means of a tea-cosy, or a turned-down flame of the spirit lamp. Tea, especially at receptions and afternoon teas, is made thus, or in the cups themselves. A silver tea ball, under these circum- stances, does away with the tea leaves in the cup. English breakfast tea (black) requires 10 minutes to steep. If black tea should chance to boil, it is not ruined in flavor like green tea. If the tea should happen to be too strong, weaken by the addition of a little boiling water. 34 530 TABLE DRINKS. Kiissian Tea. — Russian tea is so much more refreshing, as well as so much more appetizing, to most palates, than the average bever- age offered at 5 o'clock, that one wonders that it is not oftener met with. It need not contain the often-added drop of cordial; but a slice of lemon alone, without any cream and preferably no sugar, gives a very ])iquant flavor to what, to the American taste, is rather an insipid drink. Tea Punch, a la Riisse. — The ingredients are enough finely cracked ice to two-thirds fill a tall glass, as much powdered sugar as one woukl drink in a glass that size of any tea, plus an extra spoon- ful to offset the lemon juice, which goes next. Over this pour the tea. This should be freshly made and preferably hot. It gets cold by the time the glass is filled, percolating over the ice, and a whip or two of a mixing spoon will finish off the mixture to the taste of all the gods that like a tea flavor. There is less tannic acid by using boiling tea than by first allowing the tea to cool. Iced Tea. — Iced tea can be made from either green or black tea, but a mixture of the two is an improvement on either of them alone. Prepare the tea in the morning, making it stronger than usual. It is better not to sweeten until you have learned the tastes of the guests. Strain and pour into a stone jug or glass bottle, and place in the ice-chest until ready to serve. Pour it in goblets and never use cream. Serve the ice cracked on plates garnished with well-washed fruit leaves. Slice of lemon can be put in each glass. Chocolate. For those who wish to keep the imagination fresh and vigorous, chocolate is the beverage of beverages. However copiousl)^ you have lunched, a cup of chocolate immediately afterward will pro- duce digestion three hours after and prepare the way for a good dinner. It is recommended to every one who devotes to brain work the hours he should pass in bed. The merest dash of cinnamon in a cup of chocolate, after it is poured, is said to add a piquant and un- distinguishable flavor. Cliocolate (Plain). — Put into a covered pot, set in boiling water, I quart of new milk ; stir into it 3 heaping tablespoonfuls grated chocolate mixed to a paste with cold milk; let it boil 5 minutes, stirring, and serve at once. To make good chocolate^ of course good TABLE DRINKS. 531 materials are required. If it is not wanted so rich, use milk and water, half-and-half. Take off the scum that rises, and serve with sugar and cream. You can cook either cocoa or chocolate practically forever in water only, provided that you do not put in the boiling milk until 5 minutes before you want to serve it. Take out as much as you want to add the milk to, and let the remainder simmer in water over the fire until wanted again. This is very convenient where the family cannot all be served at once. Hot crackers, or cheese crack- ers, are very nice to serve with it. Vienna Chocolate. — One quart of milk, 3 heaping table- spoonfuls of grated chocolate, rubbed smooth in a little cold water. Allow the milk to come to a boil, put in the chocolate and boil about 5 minutes, or until of desired thickness. After removing it from the fire sea- son with the essence of vanilla according to taste. The choco- late should then be poured into dainty cups while still in the kitchen, and served quickly and steam- ing hot. Fill the cups two-thirds full with the delicious brown mix- ture and add thick beaten cream. This addition constitutes the making of the famous Vienna chocolate. Boil in a double boiler, or stir constantly while boiling. Cocoa. — Dissolve 1 teaspoon heaping full of cocoa in half a cup- ful of boiling water; when mixed, add a cupful of hot milk, stir until it boils well, and serve at once, sweetened to taste. In making cocoa, it will be found much more delicious if a little flavoring is added to that already in the stuff, as prepared at the manufactory. Icetl Cocoa. — Put 1 heaping teaspoonful of cocoa to each half pint of boiling water in a double boiler; mix, an^ cook for 5 minutes and sweeten. Take from fire, and when cold add half a cup of good cream. Beat the whole until Hght. Fill the glasses half full of cracked ice, pour in the cocoa, and serve. 632 TABLE DRINKS. Lemonade. Liemonade (Plain). — Grate the yellow rind from the lemons. Roll until soft. Peel off the bitter white rind of the lemon, cut in two, and squeeze with a lemon squeezer. Drop the pulp and grated rind in the pitcher with the juice. One large lemon, or 2 small ones will make 4 small glasses oflemonade. Stir in 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of sugar, and pour in 4 glasses of water. Stir and add cracked ice, or set on ice for half an hour. It is nicer strained before serving. A circular slice of lemon in each glass adds to the appearance. Lemonade has more "body" if the sugar used in sweetening is reduced to a syrup before adding to the lemonade. Take half pound of sugar and boil it with 1 pint of water, and the lemon rinds, to a syrup. Remove the rinds before using to sweeten. Boiled Lemonade. — The best authorities teach that lemonade made with boiling water is much more delicious than an ordinary cold water lemonade. Wash and wipe a lemon carefully. Cut a slice or two from the centre of the lemon, and squeeze the remainder with a powerful lemon-squeezer, so as to extract a little of the essential oil of the skin. Add sugar enough to sweeten, and pour half a pint of freshly boiled water over it. When perfectly ice-cold, serve it with a little cracked ice in the bottom of the glass, and a slice of lemon floating on the top. The proportions are, 4 lemons, half pound loaf sugar, 3 pints boiling water, for a larger quantity. Rub the lumps over the rind of lemons to extract the oil, press out juice, add boiling water, cool, and put in ice-box. Eg-g- Lemonade. — Egg lemonade is a delicious drink. Take 2 fresh eggs and beat the whites and yolks, separately, until as light as possible. To half a pint of boiling water add the juice of 2 large lemons and half a cupful of sugar. Stir until it is dissolved, and add quickly a pint of ice broken very fine. Mix the whites and yolks of the eggs well in one vessel, raise the lemonade well above them, and pour it in ; turn quickly into another pitcher, and back again into the first. When well mixed, serve at once. A quicker way is to add a fresh, lightly beaten egg to a glass of strong lemonade. A nourish- ing drink for a convalescent. Milk Lemonade. — Squeeze the juice of a nice fresh lemon into a glass, remove all of the seeds, and add sugar to taste, I use 2 level TABLE DRINKS. 533 tablespoonfuls of sugar. Have in another glass some fresh sweet milk with plenty of ice in it ; pour this cold milk on the sweetened lemon juice, stirring to prevent curdling. Then place one glass over the other and shake briskly until it foams. A most refreshing, deli- cious drink. Pineapple Lemonade. — " Pineapple lemonade is a most delight- ful and refreshing summer drink. To make a good lemonade, make a syrup of 1 pound of sugar and 1^ cups of water. Prepare the pineapple by grating, paring and removing the seeds. Add to it the juice of 3 lemons and the hot syrup. When cool mix with 2 cups of water, ice, and serve, and you have a drink fit for the gods." Fruit Lenionade. — Fruit lemon^ide is a great improvement over plain lemonade, and is made by adding the juice of 2 oranges and a half pint of strawberries to every half dozen lemons. First roll the lemons and carefully scrape off any small black specks that may ap- pear upon the surface ; then, with a sharp knife, slice them thin, taking pains to remove the seeds. Place the lemons in a pitcher from which the drink is to be served, and pour a cupful of granulated sugar over them. Then, with a wooden pestle, mash the lemons well, and add the other fruit juice. Heap a pint of chopped ice over all and allow it to stand a few moments before adding the water and remainder of sugar. This receipt should make fully 3 pints of finely-flavored lem- onade. The amount of sugar required must depend upon the acidity of the fruit. When strawberries are not in season, blood oranges may be substituted, and the flavor will be enhanced by the addition of small cubes of pineapple. Orangeade. — Slice 2 oranges and 1 lemon ; pour over them 1 quart of boiling water, sweeten to taste. Place on ice to cool. This is delicious. Ging-erade. — Half a cup of vinegar, 1 cup of sugar, 2 teaspoon- fuls of ginger. Stir thoroughly ; put in a quart pitcher and fill with ice water. Ging-er Beer. — A glass of home-made ginger beer, with a lump of ice in it, is always a pleasant drink on a hot day. Take a deep earthenware kettle, slice 4 lemons, place them in the kettle, add \yi pounds of loaf sugar, and 1^ ounces of root-ginger, slightly bruised, Pour over these ingredients 2 gallons of boiling water, and when nearly cold pour in a dessertspoonful of fresh brewers' yeast. Cover 534 TABLE DRINKS. this with a thin cloth, and let the mixture stand for 24 hours. Strain and bottle it, and place in a cool cellar. Where lemons are not at hand, 1 tablespoonful of citric acid and 1 teaspoonful of essence of lemon can be used in place of each lemon. Ging-erette. — Put 2 gallons of water, 8 sliced lemons, seeds re- moved, and 2 ounces of bruised ginger-root in a porcelain kettle and boil 10 minutes. While this is boiling, put 4 pounds of granulated sugar in 2 gallons of cold water ; add 1 ounce of cream of tartar, and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Turn all in a large stone crock or jar, mix well and add three-fourths cup of yeast. Let it stand over night, and bottle after straining. Healthful, cooling and refreshing. Hop Beer. — Boil 1 teacup of loose hops, strain over 1 teaspoon- ful ginger, and 1 teacup of molasses; add water until lukewarm ; dis- solve 1 yeast-cake and add. Put into a gallon jug and fill with luke- warm water. (The yeast must not be scalded.) Set in tin pan and pour boiling water round it and let work over night. When worked, cork and set in cool place. Root Beer. — For each gallon of water to be used, take hops, bur- dock, yellow dock, sarsaparilla, dandelion, and spikenard roots, bruised, of each one-half ounce. Boil about 20 minutes and strain ; while hot add 8 or 10 drops of oils of spruce and sassafras mixed in equal portions ; when cool enough not to scald your hand, strain and add 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of yeast ; molasses, two-thirds of a pint ; or sugar, one-half pound, gives it about the right sweetness. Keep these proportions for as many gallons as wished. After all is mixed let it stand in a jar with a cloth thrown over it, to work about 2 hours, then bottle and set in a cool place. In about 3 days it will be ready for use. Excellent and wholesome. Beer bottles with patent corks are best for bottling all these home-made beers. Spruce Beer. — Put a quart of molasses in a saucepan, with a gal- lon of water and half an ounce each of white ginger-root and sassa- fras. Set over the fire and let simmer for 2^ hours, strain into a large stone jar, add 1}4 gallons more water. When lukewarm, stir in half a yeast cake, cover, and set in a warm place for 8 hours. Bottle, add 10 raisins to each bottle, cork securely, and set on ice for 3 days, when the beer is ready for use. Koumis, or Milk Beer. — Take 3 quarts of fresh, rich milk, 3 of hot water, half pound of white sugar, and 1 teacup of good yeast; TABLE DRINKS. 535 dissolve the sugar in the water, add to the milk, let the mixture cool till lukewarm, and then add the yeast ; set the whole in a warm place, as you would for bread to rise, stirring it every 20 minutes, and in 5 or 6 hours it will be slightly sparkling, and small bubbles will rise to the surface when stirred. Now put into very stout bottles, tie down corks and set the bottles in a cool place. A thick mass of casein will fjrm on the surface, and when it begins to separate, twice a day for several days shake the bottle, and this will fall in a powder to the bottom. When 2 days old it is ready for use, and it will keep a week, but is best when from 2 to 4 days old. It is highly efferves- cent, and a champagne top should be used in the bottle. Turn the mouth into a pitcher, covering the pitcher with a cloth, and let the liquid out very carefully. It should properly be used 3 times a day, a glass before each meal. In starting a new lot, instead of yeast use a bottle of old koumis. If there be too much alcohol generated, put in less sugar. This is recommended for a weak stomach, and is healthful for young children. Raspberry Cordial. — Real raspberry cordial is prepared by mashing 4 quarts of ripe berries in a stone jar, with 1 pound of white sugar. Pour over'them 1 quart of the best cider vinegar, and set the jar in the hot sunshine for 4 hours, after which the mixture is strained, bottled and sealed. Lay the bottles on their sides in a cool 636 Table drinks. cellar, and for drinking mix in the proportions of 2 tablespoonfuls to a tumbler of iced water. Raspberry Vinegar. — To 4 quarts of red raspberries put vinegar enough to cover, and let stand 24 hours. Scald and strain it, add 1 pound of sugar to 1 pint of juice, boil it 20 minutes and bottle. It will keep for years. To 1 glass of water add a great spoonful. A most refreshing drink for the sick. Strawberry Vinegar. — Make in the same manner as Raspberry Vinegar. Currant Vinegar may also be made in the same way. Currant Sliriib. — Pick thoroughly ripe currants, not overripe, or the shrub will have a purple color. Strain through a flannel bag or other heavy cloth. Take a pint of currant juice, add to this some block or granulated sugar, and let it stand in the ice-chest until ready for use. Pour some in a glass and add water to suit the taste. The currant and sugar can stand on the ice for 24 hours, then make fresh. Red raspberries can be used in the same way, only add a very little currant juice to give it character. Fruit Sherbet. — Fruit sherbets can easily be made at home, and they are quite as good as those sold at the confectioner's. Mash any ripe fruit, and pass it through a coarse sieve and then through a fine sieve. To every quart of juice add a quart of water and sweeten with powdered sugar. When the sugar is dissolved, strain again and keep in ice-box till wanted. Fruit Syrups. — With a good supply of syrups, which should occupy a conspicuous place in every cooling-room, many refreshing and pleasant drinks can be quickly mixed. Syrups made at home from the best and freshest fruit are much better than most that can be got from the chemists. Cordials that are on sale rarely contain any genuine fruit juice. The best receptacles for the fruits and juices during the different processes to which they must be submitted are those made of stone and granite ware. Tin vessels not only discolor the syrup, but will often impart an unpleasant taste. A refreshing drink, quickly made, is that evolved by putting into a tumbler a liberal tablespoonful of almost any kind of syrup — pine- apple is always successful — a tablespoonful of thick cream, and then filling the glass from a syphon of iced soda-water. This is a drink particularly suitable for garden and tennis parties. Straws should be furnished for such drinks as contain cracked ice and fruit slices. A TABLE DRINKS. 537 delicious beverage can be made by taking 3 bananas and rubbing them through a sieve; add the juice of one lemon. Pour over the pulp a half-pint of boiling water. When cold, stir it well, sweeten and strain. Then add a bottle of soda-water and cracked ice. Delicious fruit syrups which ought to be kept on hand for these drinks are only the fruit juices impregnated with a sufficient quantity of sugar to preserve them and retain them in the fluid state. A sure way to prepare a good syrup is to use powdered loaf sugar, mixing it thoroughly with a wooden spoon until the sugar is dissolved. The dish should be placed in a pan of boiling water, and thus the small particles of sugar become dissolved without any risk of burning. Beverages concocted by the use of syrups are the most popular, and the syrups that should ever be kept on hand are spiced black- berry, raspberry, orange, quince, apple and peach, syrup of orange peel, strawberry, pineapple, pear, cherry, lemon, essence of lemon or orange, and mixed syrup. This latter syrup, of excellent flavor, may be made by mixing two different fruits together, as raspberry, red or black, and currants, or raspberries with cherries. Lemon juice may be added to apple, and pineapple is a fine addition to any of the fruit, but is rather expensive for liberal use. Currant Syrup. — Take 3 pounds of red and 3 pounds of white currants; 1 pound of cherries or 1 pound of raspberries would be an improvement, but they can be dispensed with; bruise the fruit slightly and put it into an earthen jar; cover this closely, put it into a sauce- pan of cold water and let the fruit simmer gently until the juice flows freely; strain and leave until the next day in a cool place. Pour off the juice, weigh, and add an equal weight of sugar. Let simmer, and stir frequently, but do not let it boil. Skim carefully, and then put in an earthen jar to cool. Li I2 hours it maybe put into a small-sized dry bottle, corked and sealed, and stored in a cool but dry place. When mixed with cold water it makes a refreshing sum- mer drink, and is especially suited to invalids. Cherry Water. — Bruise and rub through a hair-sieve enough ripe cherries to produce a pint of juice. Add to this a pound of pulverized sugar, a quart of water and sufficient ice to cool. Cranberry "Water. — Boil cranberries with half their weight in sugar, and half their measure of water; simmer half an hour and strain through a jelly-bag. Cool and drink with cracked ice. 538 TABLE DRINKS. Fruit Punches (Temperance). Pineapple Punch. — Tineapplc punch for a summer drink : The juice of 6 oranges and 6 lemons, sugar to taste, adding, to chopped ice, some sHced pineapple, and pouring over it 2 quarts of water. Orange Punch. — The following recipe is given for a fruit drink suitable for a luncheon : It is made from orange juice, and is pro- nounced a very pleasant drink. The juice is served in tall glasses, and is undiluted. Into each glass are dropped 4 slices of banana, a Tokay grape cut and seeded, a slice from a tart apple and a pinch of sugar. The drink, of course, is intended to be sipped through the courses, and may be the only one served. Lemon Punch. — Put 1 pound of sugar and 1 quart of water over the fire to boil. When boiling begins, add the grated rind of 1 lemon. Continue boiling 15 minutes, and then set it away to cool. Add the juice of 4 lemons and 3 oranges. Ice and serve. Fi'uit Punch — Put 1 pint of water, 1 pound of sugar, and chip- ped yellow rind of a lemon on to boil. Boil 5 minutes after it begins to boil. Strain, and while hot add 1 banana sliced, 1 pineapple grated, and quarter pound of stoned cherries. When ready to serve, add juice of 8 lemon."^. Pour it in a punch bowl, place in the centre a large piece of ice and pour in 2 quarts of apollinaris, mix and serve. A dozen strawberries may be sliced in at the last moment. Soda Water. — The soda water that is best and purest is that which is made at home, and here is the formula for it : Simple syrup, 12 ounces; flavor, 5 ounces of any good fruit juice; citric acid, 1 ounce. To serve put 1 ounce of syrup in an ordinary tumbler and fill two-thirds with water. Then add a small amount of bicarbonate of soda on the end of a spoon. Stir rapidly and drink. Soda Water Powders. — Have put in blue paper 30 grains of car- bonate of soda, in white paper 25 grains of tartaric acid. Dissolve the soda powder in half a glass of water and .stir into it the acid, and drink while effervescing. If you desire syrup, make it out of sugar boiled in water, and flavor as you like. Dissolve the soda in the .syrup. Excellent to allay thirst in warm weather. 31^,^(1. — One quart of boiling water, one-half pint of molasses, 2j{ pounds of brown sugar, one-half ounce of flavoring extract, 2 ounces of tartaric acid. Put the water, sugar, molasses and acid together, TABLE DRINKS. 539 and when the mixture is cold add the extract, which may be the essence of wintergreen or sassafras, or any other kind used for such a purpose. Bottle, and set away in a cold place. To make the mead, place 2 tablespoonfuls of the syrup in a glass of ice water, stir until well mixed, and add a quarter of a teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda to render the drink effervescent. Sterilizing- Milk. — Provide 6 or 8 half-pint bottles, according to the number of times the child is fed during the 24 hours. Put the proper amount of food for one feeding in each bottle, and use a tuft of cotton batting as a stopper. Have a saucepan that the bottles can stand in conve- niently. Invert a perforated tin pie plate in the bottom, and put in enough water to come above the milk in the bottles. Stand the bottles on it ; when the water boils draw the saucepan to a cooler part of the stove, where the water will remain near the boiling point, but not actually boiling. Cover the saucepan, and let the bottles remain in it 1 hour, cool place in winter. Sarsaparilla Mead. — Boil a quarter of a pound of Spanish sarsa- parilla in water for 5 hours, keep enough water on it so that when it is strained off there will be a quart of the liquid, after straining add to this quart of liquid of sarsaparilla 4 pounds of granulated sugar and 2 ounces of tartaric acid. Allow a wineglassful of this prepara- tion and half a teaspoonful of soda to half a pint of water. Chanipag-ne Cider. — Get the best apple cider and freeze it. Draw out the cider, put into the bottles, boil the corks, which must be good ones, and drive the soft corks down in the bottles, and in a (ew days (weeks or months are better) you will have a fine, sparkling champagne. Sweet Cider (to Keep). — Let sweet cider be heated carefully up to boiling point. Skim and seal up. The best way to heat it is Put them in the ice-box, or a 540 TABLE DRINKS. to put it in a glazed jug. Set the jug in boiling water and keep it there until the cider comes to a boiling point. Then remove, cork the jug and seal it. Sweet Cider (to Keep). — II. When new cider is beginning to ferment, add to it (mixing thoroughly) 1 pound of granulated sugar to every gallon of cider. The sugar arrests fermentation. Keep the cask in a cool place, and use as required. It has been kept perfectly sweet in this manner for two years. Cold Milk Shake. — Take a pint of fresh milk that has not been skimmed, a few drops of your favorite essence, a tablespoonful of sugar, and mix them thoroughly and put in a quart pitcher with half a pint of pounded ice. Take your egg-beater, one that turns on a crank, and beat the mixture for a moment, stirring briskly. It will foam to the top of the pitcher in no time, and when it does, it is ready to drink. It is delicious. Oatmeal Harvest Drink. — Stir a pint of oatmeal into a pail of ice water. Nobody seems to be able to tell the peculiar properties of oatmeal as a drink, but that it is a great cooler and a pleasant stimulant there is no doubt. Some Medicinal Liquors. Spiced Blackberry Brandy. — One gallon brandy or whiskey, 2 boxes fresh blackberries, 5 cents' worth stick cinnamon, 5 cents' worth cloves, or 12 cloves to a bottle ; 10 cents' worth candied orange or lemon peel, three-quarters cupful of sugar to each bottle. Use quart bottles. Stand bottles in the sun 4 weeks. Excellent for sum- mer diseases. A tried recipe. Blackberry Wine. — To 2 quarts of blackberry juice add 3 quarts of water (put the fruit in the water after the juice has been pressed from it and .strain), add 5 pounds of brown sugar and one-half pound seed raisins ; be sure to seed the raisins, as the seeds give the wine a brackish taste; mix all v/ell together, and put in a large jug; cork loosely; set in a cool cellar. It will take about six weeks to work. Then cork tightly and let it remain in the jug three months longer, then strain and bottle, seal. Blackberry wine possesses highly medicinal qualities. Scientists tell us that the food value of sugar is very great. A pound of sugar contains much more energy and power to support animal life than a pound of meat. If candy is taken under such conditions that it will not derange the digestive apparatus, it is perfectly wise and rational to be a candy-eater. And if candies are to be eaten, those prepared at home are sure to be free from injurious ingredients. Coloring's for Candies. — The colorings most used in candies are pink, yellow, amber or light brown, green and dark red, and from combining these many tints can be obtained. You can prepare all these at home. Cochineal. — Use this, a drop at a time, carefully, as it will color very deeply. A small quantity will go a good way. Yellow. — Get ten cents' worth of Spanish saffron, and boil it in half a pint of water till reduced one-quarter. Strain this liquid through muslin, squeezing hard. This is also a very strong coloring fluid. G^'ecn. — Pistache candy gets its name from its green coloring, supposed to be obtained from the nuts, that are quite tasteless and very costly. The flavor really is obtained from bitter almond, or almond and orange flower water, while the color is made from spinach. See rule before given. Chocolate Caramels. — So many receipts for chocolate caramels call for cream, but it is not really necessary to use it when one has good butter. Here is a receipt which is cheap, simple, and never fails : One cupful molasses, and 2 teacupfuls of white sugar ; dissolve over a fire, and add a piece of butter the size of an Q%^, and a quarter of a pound of grated chocolate. Boil until a small quantity, dropped in ice water, becomes quite firm, then pour into greased pans, and when cool cut into squares, which may be wrapped in greased squares of paper. The chocolate need not be grated ; break the large cake in halves, and put it in ; the heat rapidly dissolves it, and it is a waste of time to grate it, Ml 542 CANDIES. Chocolate Caramels. — II. A more simple method of preparing the caramels with good results, is to take 1 pint of New Orleans molasses and 1 pint of brown sugar, and cook till brittle when tried in water. Then, just before removing from the fire, add half a cake of Baker's chocolate. They have a fine flavor. Nut Caramels. — Use the first rule given for caramels. Omit the chocolate, and add \]^ cupfuls of chopped peanuts or other nuts. Chop them quite fine. Cream Caramels. — Half a pound of Baker's chocolate, grated fine ; sift 2 pounds of white sugar ; put with it 1 heaping teaspoonful of butter, 1 teacupful thick sweet cream. Cook these ingredients until the mixture candies (it takes about 20 minutes' hard boiling). After taking from the fire, put in 1 teaspoonful of vanilla ; this makes the dark part. For the Cream. — Take 3 cupfuls of finest sifted white sugar and 1 cupful cream; boil 20 minutes ; do not stir much. Flavor with the juice and grated peel of an orange. Butter a dish, pour upon it a layer of the dark part, letting it stand in a cool place until partly hardened. Next, add a layer of the white cream, which also allow a few minutes to harden. Lastly, cover with another layer of the chocolate ; when nearly hard cut in squares. Tuttl-Frutti Caramels. — Half a cupful of cream and 2 cupfuls of powdered sugar ; boil 5 minutes in a granite kettle, counting from the time it boils all over. Place the kettle in cold water and beat it until stiff enough to hold candied fruit. Add quarter of a pound of candied fruit, cut fine, and pour the cream into a narrow bread pan, buttered or lined with paraffin paper. The second layer is the same, using, in place of the fruit, a teaspoonful of vanilla, and 1 small square of chocolate, melted. The third layer is colored pink with cochineal, and flavored with chopped almonds. The fourth layer is like the first. Cut in squares. Jujube Paste. — Take 2 cupfuls of sugar, one-quarter of a pound of gum arabic and 1 pint of water. Flavor with the essence of lemon and a grain of cochineal. Let the mixture stand until the gum is dissolved in a warm place on the back of the stove, then draw forward and cook until thick ; try in cold water. It should be lim- ber and bend when cold. Pour in buttered pans, an eighth of an inch thick. When cool^ roll up in a scroll, CANDIES. 543 Barley Sugar. — Dissolve 1 yi pounds of loaf or granulated sugar in one-half pint of water ; add the white of 1 egg. When it has boiled sufficiently to snap in cold water, add the strained juice of 1 large lemon. Boil quickly until it candies as before ; then pour on a buttered slab or large platter. When it cools, cut with a pair of scissors into narrow strips, cut these in squares, or twist them slightly, place on waxed paper to harden, then pack away in a close-covered jar and keep in a dry place. Ice Cream Candy. — Boil 3 cups of sugar, a quarter of a teaspoon- ful of cream of tartar, and one-half cup of water together, but do not stir the syrup at all while boiling. Boil until, when a little is dropped into cold water, it is brittle. Turn on to a large, well-but- tered platter or a marble slab that has been oiled, and, as it cools, fold the edges toward the centre. As soon as it can be handled, pull it unlil it is white. Flavor to suit. Cream Candy. — Four pounds of granulated sugar, 1 pint of water, 4 tablespoonfuls of thick cream, 4 tablespoonfuls vinegar, butter the size of an (^^^. Boil all slowly three-quarters of an hour. Pour on buttered tins to cool. Molasses Candy. — One quart molasses, one-half cup of vinegar, 1 cupful granulated sugar, butter the size of an &^^, 1 teaspoonful soda. Dissolve the sugar in the vinegar ; put in with molasses and butter, and boil, stirring often. As soon as it hardens when dropped in water, it is done. Then stir the soda in quickly and pour in but- tered pans to cool. Pull until white. Molasses Candy. — II. One pint molasses, 1 pound of brown sugar, one-quarter of a pound of butter. Boil until it hardens in cold water. Pour in weli-greased pans, very thin. If the candy is to contain nuts of any kind, they should be placed in the pan before pouring the candy. Or it can be pulled as above. Cream Almonds. — Make cream candy as per rule for chocolate creams, and form it by hand around almond kernels, covering thickly. A crystallized appearance may be given by rolling them while moist in granulated sugar. Peppermint Drops. — Two cups of sugar, ^ cup of water ; boil 5 minutes, then remove from fire ; add small half teaspoon cream of tartar, flavor to taste with oil of peppermint or checkermint, and drop quickly on buttered paper. 544 CANDIES. Lemon or Orange Drops. — Grate the rind of 1 orange or lemon, and squeeze the juice, taking care to reject the seeds, add to this a pinch of tartaric acid, then stir in confectioners' sugar until it is stiff enough to form into small balls the size of small marbles. This is delicious candy, Lemon Drops. — II. Upon 1 cup of powdered sugar pour enough lemon juice to dissolve it, and boil it to a thick syrup ; drop on but- tered plates and set in a warm place to harden. AVintergreeii, Ginger or Rose Drops. — Make as for pepper- mints, and flavor to taste. Color the rose with cochineal. For the ginger flavor with a teaspoonful of Jamaica ginger. Cream Peppermints. — Two cupfuls of confectioners' sugar, or fine granulated will do, 6 tablespoonfuls of hot water boiled together about three minutes, until the sugar is dissolved and the syrup looks clear. Do not stir the syrup. When done, pour into a bowl, add one-quarter of a teaspoonful of cream of tartar and half a teaspoonful of essence of peppermint. Beat with a spoon until white and creamy — about three minutes — then drop on paper or tins slightly buttered. The paper must be perfectly smooth, and the spoon twirled as you drop the cream, or the peppermints will not be round. The dropping must be done very rapidly, as the cream hardens quickly. Vinegar Taffy. — Three cupfuls granulated sugar, one-half cupful vinegar, one-half cupful water, butter size of a walnut; boil without stirring until it will candy when dropped into cold water. Flavor with lemon and pour out on a buttered dish. Cut into squares just before it hardens. Some cooks stir in ^ teaspoonful of soda just before taking up. Maple Wax. — Boil maple sugar with a little water to a thick syrup. When a little will harden readily on snow or ice, it is ready. Then pour it over a great pan, either of closely packed snow or ice. It will make sheets of brittle, melting candy that is most luscious and very easily prepared. Maple Balls. — Two cups maple sugar, 1 cup water ; cook without stirring, and when it becomes brittle dropped in water, add heaping tablespoon butter. Beat until creamy ; make into balls ; add halves of English walnuts on both sides. Lay on buttered paper to harden. Maple Chocolate Balls. — Half pound maple sugar, broken fine, and dissolved with one-fourth cupful cold water. When perfectly CANDIES. 545 dissolved, let it boil hard five minutes. Break up quarter cake of chocolate and put in a bowl over boiling water to melt; this can be done by removing the lid from the tea-kettle and setting the bowl in its place. Take the sugar from the fire, put in a cool place and beat until stiff enough to make into balls about the size of marbles. Place on buttered plates to harden and then drop one by one into the melted chocolate. Turn with a fork until completely covered and place on buttered paper to harden. Butter Scotch. — One cup of sugar, 1 cup of molasses, half cup of butter ; boil until it hardens when dropped in cold water ; then pour in a greased pan. Some put peanuts in the pan before turning in the candy. Mering-iie Kisses. — Beat the whites of four eggs until quite stiff, add pinch of salt, teaspoonful of flavoring, 1 cup of fine granulated sugar ; beat with a fork until very stiff. Drop on buttered paper and bake three-quarters of an hour in a very slow oven. Popcorn Candy. — Make a common molasses candy. Have corn nicely popped ; grind it fine in a coffee-mill, and when the candy is ready to remove from the fire, stir in as much of the ground corn as possible, and pour the whole into tin trays or dripping-pans (well buttered), marking squares when partly cool. This is a very delicious, tender candy. Sug-ared Popcorn. — Put 1 cupful of granulated sugar, 3 table- spoonfuls of water and 1 tablespoonful of butter into a deep kettle, and boil until it will candy, when a little is dropped into cold water. Remove the kettle from the fire, and throw in immediately a little more than 3 quarts of nicely popped corn, stirring briskly all the time. When the syrup is well mixed with the corn, each kernel will be found separate from the rest and crystallized with sugar. Popcorn Balls. — Put 1 cupful of granulated sugar in a saucepan, and wet it with half a cupful of cider (or vinegar and water mixed). When the sugar is dissolved, add half a cupful of water and allow it to boil without stirring until it will hair when dropped from a spoon. Have ready in a large pan or chopping bowl 11 or 12 double handfuls of well-popped corn. By double handfuls is meant all one can pos- sibly hold between both hands. Pour the syrup over the corn, stir- ring fast until the mass is well mixed. Then flour the hands and make into balls. This quantity makes 14 good-sized balls. A little 35 546 CANDIES. red sugar can be added to the syrup if more fancy looking balls are desired. The balls can also be made of molasses, or half-and-half molasses and sugar. When possible, it is best to get corn that is more than a year old, as it pops much better. Cough Candy. — An excellent cough candy is made of slippery elm, flaxseed and sugar. Soak a gill of whole flaxseed in half a pint of boiling water. In another dish put a cupful of broken bits of slip- pery elm and cover this also with boiling water. Let these stand for 2 hours. Then strain them both through a muslin cloth into a sauce- pan containing 1 ^2 pounds of granulated sugar. Extract all the liquor you can, stir the sugar until it is melted, and then boil it until it turns to candy. Pour it out at once, when it reaches this point, on to greased papers. This is the old-fashioned rule. The candy is more palatable if the juice of 2 lemons is added to it after it has cooked for 10 minutes. Hoarlioimd Candy. — Boil 2 ounces of dried hoarhound, which can be procured at the druggist's, in a pint and a half of water until its flavor is extracted, that is, for about 30 minutes. Strain until per- fectly clear. Add to it S^i pounds of brown sugar, and boil over a quick fire until the syrup will harden when a little of it is dropped in cold water. Pour into a buttered tin, and cut in squares when it is partly cooled. Date Candy. — Take 4 cupfuls of white sugar, 1 scant cupful of cold water, butter size of an egg. Let boil slowly until ready to candy, not too hard. Cut dates, and remove the seeds. Close them again, lay on a well-buttered platter in rows 1 inch apart each way, pour the boiled candy over, and while cooling cut in squares so that a date will be in each square. Fruit or Ifut Candies. — Dates, figs, raisins or cherries dried in sugar and taken in small lumps may be prepared according to the rule given above for Date Candy. Nut-meats of various kinds may be also used in the same manner, substituting any of these for the dates given above. A variation in the candy may be made by sub- stituting vinegar or lemon juice for the water used in the before- mentioned recipe. Tutti-Frutti Cream Candy. — Three cupfuls of white sugar, half a cupful of water, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar. Boil 10 minutes, then add 1 cupful grated fresh cocoanut or the desiccated. Boil 10 minutes longer, remove from fire and stir in 1 pound of fresh-chopped figs or nut- CANDIES. 547 meats, half-and-half with the figs. Drop by spoonfuls on buttered paper or in fancy moulds, or pour in shallow pans and cut in squares while cooling. Raisins may be mixed with the figs. Fig- Rock. — Boil 1 cupful of sugar and three-quarters of a cupful of water together, until the mixture turns to an amber color; add a little cream of tartar before taking it from the fire. Have the figs ready cut up on a dish, and pour the mixture over them. When nearly cold cut into square blocks. Cream Fig's. — Beat the white of an egg, stir in powdered sugar until as stiff as possible, and yet admit of dipping the figs. Dip in each fig one or more times until entirely covered. Place on a heater to dry. Fig- Paste. — A dainty, inexpensive candy is made thus : Chop into bits and boil a pound of figs. When soft, strain and press through a sieve. Return to the water in which they were boiled, and which should be reduced to 1 cupful. Stir in 3 pounds of granulated sugar and cook down slowly until a thick paste is formed. Pour in pans lined with paper. Let cook. Take out on the paper and cut into sections. Dust with powdered sugar. Rose Candy. — One pound of granulated sugar, 1 teacup of cream, mix it together, boil 15 minutes, fast stirring all the time; try it by dropping some in a cup of cold water; if right it will not melt, but feel gummy; beat the white of an egg to a froth and stir the candy into it, divide it, color one part with 4 drops of cochineal, flavor with half teaspoon of vanilla, the other with half teaspoon of lemon; butter a dish, then pour first one and let it spread, then the other on top; when partly cool score it across with a knife. Candy Eggs for Easter. — Get tin moulds in egg shape, or use small china egg cups. Melt half a pound of chocolate and fill the moulds with the liquid, a teaspoonful at a lime. Wait a moment, and then pour out what will flow. The chocolate which adheres to the mold, will, after cooling, for.m the egg, and may be detached by tap- ping the mould lightly. Forming the perfect egg is equally easy. This is done by rubbing the edge of one-half to and fro over some warm surface, and then pressing it against the edges of the cold egg. The egg can be made solid instead of hollow ; but this, of course, requires a much larger quantity of chocolate, or it can be filled with the cream candy used for chocolate creams, finely chopped English 648 CANDIES. walnuts, or anything of the sort. The eggs can also be prepared without moulds by shaping the cream-candy filling with the hands into little eggs, and then dipping them by means of a small wooden skewer into the melted chocolate, which, when it cools, forms a covering. [In any of the recipes for cocoanut candy, where it is necessary to use the desiccated cocoanut, it must be soaked over night in as much milk as it will absorb, about one-half cupful of milk to one-half pound of cocoanut.] Cocoanut Candy. — Take the white meat of cocoanuts, grate coarse until you have one-half pound ; dissolve one-half pound of refined sugar in 2 tablespoonfuls of water ; put it over the fire, and as soon as it boils stir the cocoanut in. Stir until it is boiled to a flake; pour into a buttered pan or marble slab ; then cut in forms to suit, when it is nearly cold. Cocoanut Taffy. — One cup of desiccated cocoanut, and pour in enough sweet milk to cover the cocoanut; let soak while other ingre- dients are cooking; 1 cup of molasses, 1 cup of sugar, butter the size of an egg, and one tablespoon of vinegar; boil about 15 minutes, then put in the cocoanut and milk. Watch carefully after putting in cocoanut, as it will scorch very quickly if you do not stir it. Cook until brittle when dropped in water. Pour in a buttered tin and set away to cool. Orange and Cocoanut Candy. — To 2 cupfuls of granulated sugar add the grated rind and half the juice of a small orange, together with enough cold water to thoroughly moisten the sugar. When it comes to a boil, add half a cupful of desiccated or, better, freshly-grated cocoanut. Let it boil, without stirring, until it stiffens in cold water, so that you can take it up in a very soft ball. Take from the fire and set saucepan and all in a cold place until the syrup is nearly cool, then stir vigorously until it becomes thick and white, and pour quickly on a buttered plate. Cut in squares. Hickory-nut Candy (Molasses). — One pint of molasses, one- half cupful of granulated sugar. Let boil 15 minutes, then add piece of butter the size of hickory nut. As soon as it crisps when dropped into cold water, add one-half teaspoonful of soda made very fine. Stir quickly ; then add one pint hickory-nut meats. Pour on buttered tins to harden. CANDIES. 549 Hickory-nut Candy (Siig-ar). — One cup of hickory-nut meats, two cups of sugar and half a cup of water. Boil the sugar and water without stirring until thick enough to spin to a thread, flavor with vanilla, set in cold water and stir quickly until white ; then stir in the nuts. Peanut Candy (Sug-ar). — Two cupfuls of granulated sugar, one- half a cupful water. When it comes to a boil, add one-half tea- spoonful cream of tartar, dissolve in a tablespoonful of water. Cook until when dropped in cold water it is brittle. Then add a piece of butter the size of an English walnut; cook a minute longer. Pour over a quart of shelled peanuts already spread in a buttered tin, and set away to cool. Sometimes it is nice to crush the peanuts with a rolling-pin after their skins have been removed. This breaks with a snap. Peanut Candy (Molasses). — One cup of molasses, one-half cup of butter, 1 cup of peanuts (shelled), boil 10 minutes; add peanuts just before you take it from the fire. Put in buttered pan, and when cool cut in squares. Salted Peanuts. — Shell the peanuts, and blanch by pouring hot water over them, so that the skin will slip off easily. When dry, stir them well in melted butter — 1 tablespoonful of butter is enough for a cupful of peanuts. Let them dry again, and sprinkle thoroughly with salt all over. Put in a flat baking tin and let them bake until a delicious brown. Do not have the oven too hot. You need only stir them 2 or 3 times. It will probably take about 10 or 15 minutes to brown them nicely. Salted peanuts are a cheap and appetizing sub- stitute for the almond. Salted Almonds. — To salt a cupful of shelled almonds, pour boiling water over them, and when they have rested a moment drain it off and rub the skin off each almond with the thumb and finger. Spread the almond on a pan for about 5 minutes in the oven to dry. Put a tablespoonful of pure olive oil or melted butter over them, and toss until they are thoroughly coated; sprinkle a heaping table- spoonful of salt over them and toss the almonds again in this. Let them then rest in a cup for an hour. At the end of this time spread them on a pan in a rather quick oven and let them remain for 5 or 10 minutes or until they are turned an even golden brown. Stir them occasionally while browning. They must be crisp and very delicately 550 CANDIES. colored. Put thcin on the tabic at the beginning of the dinner, with the olives and pickles, and in any low, ornamental dish. A change is to brown the almonds delicately in the oven, then cool, and instead of butter, put the unbeaten white of an egg in a large dish and- stir the almonds until they are thoroughly coated. Then spread upon plates and .sprinkle with salt. Return them to the oven. Stir frequently. Marsh-Mallow Candy. — The foundation of candies made with gum arabic, that is, the plain paste, is what is usually known as marsh-mallows. They are easy to make, but very tedious, as they require beating an hour or more. Use to make them the very best white gum arabic, powdered, and double its weight of water, with three times its weight of sugar. The sugar is the fine powdered. Toasted Marsh-Mallows. — Hold, on a long iron skewer, a marsh- mallow above a bed of glowing coals, turning it over and over, until the paste grows golden brown, softens, and the crust, breaking apart, shows the soft white centre. Eat at once. Old Style Cream Candies. — Dissolve 1 ounce of gum arabic in half a pint of water, and strain it. Add one pint of sweet new milk or cream. Pour this over 3^ pounds of granulated sugar, and stir over the fire until the sugar is dissolved. Boil 8 minutes, dip a small skimmer in the syrup, take it out and blow through it. If the candy hangs in threads from the holes, it is done. Flavor with peppermint, vanilla, or any desired flavoring. Pour it out on an oiled dish to cool. As soon as it can be handled, oil or butter your hands, and pull it as you would molasses candy until it is very white. Braid it while soft, or leave it in long, thick strips. If you wish cocoanut, add it while the candy is soft, and work it in in the pulling. This candy must be kept in self-sealing jars or it will get very hard. Candied Violets. — One-half pint water, one-half pound granu- lated sugar, put in a bright tin pan over the fire, stir until the sugar is melted, cook until the syrup spins a thread, remove from fire and set in a pan of cold water. When partly cool, beat rapidly until partly crystallized. Have a quantity of double sweet violets (white preferred), cut off stems, drop in a few at a time, stir gently. Lift with wire tongs on to oiled paper, and leave to harden. CANDIES. 551 French Oandies. The foundation of all French bon-bons is the French cream or fondant. This is made in the cooked, and the uncooked form. Freucli Cream or Foudaut (Cooked). — This French cream foun- dation is made of 2 pounds of sugar and a cup of water, boiled in a bright saucepan ; do not stir until a little drop rolled between the fingers forms a soft, creamy ball. When this stage is reached, beat the syrup thoroughly until it is cool enough to be moulded with the hands. Then work it as you would dough on a stone platter, or marble board. This fondant will keep for a long time if it is kept in a cool place. It can be melted out at any time by setting it in a cup of boiling water over the stove, and made into candies. Some of it may be colored pink with a little cochineal, and wrapped around blanched French almonds, or stoned French prunes. Some of it may be rolled into creamy little balls about the size of marbles, and dipped into a melted cake of sweet chocolate, when it becomes a chocolate cream. Some of it may be colored pale green with a little spinach green, and filled with blanched almonds or pistachio nuts. Pistachio luts are not easy to obtain, but they may always be purchased at ;:;ome of the leading confectioners. They generally cost one dollar a pound. Cocoaimt Balls. — Cocoanut balls are formed by kneading shred- ded cocoanut into a portion of the fondant; make into balls, and when cool brush with the white of an egg, and roll into some grated cocoanut. Cliocolate Squares. — Chocolate squares are made by mixing with some of the fondant enough melted chocolate to give it a rich brown color. If too soft, add pulverized sugar until it can be handled, and form into squares. Chocolate Creams. — Nip off pieces of the fondant the size of robins' eggs, form into cones and put in a cool place to harden. Melt a cake of sweetened chocolate, and proceed according to rule for chocolate creams before given. Date Caudy. — Remove the seeds from some dates, and insert a small portion of the fondant for date candy. Walnut Creams. — Walnut creams are especially nice made with the fondant. Select perfect walnut kernels. Cover them with cream, 552 CANDIES. so that they are completely concealed in the little white ball. Wrap them in fanciful little colored papers. Chocolate, Maple and Pepperniiiit Patties. — To make chocolate patties, melt some of the softer fondant in a cup, and add some finely- cut chocolate, bitter or confectioners'; if too thick to drop, add a few- drops of water. These can be flavored if desired, and usually will be found harder than the peppermint or wintergreen patties. Chocolate peppermints are made in the same manner as peppermint patties, as described above ; when hard, each one is dipped in confectioners' chocolate which has been melted over steam. Maple patties are made by cutting up 2 cupfuls of maple sugar, adding 1 cupful of cold water, and just a speck of cream of tartar dissolved in water, and cooking like plain fondant. When cold, melt and drop like the other patties. Freucli Cream, or Fondant Uncooked. — This cream is the foun- dation of many candies. It is made in the proportion of 1 pound of confectioners' sugar to the white of 1 egg, and as much cold water. The egg and water are beaten to a froth, and then creamed with sugar. Then divide the cream into as many sections as you wish to have colors and flavors. The tiniest drop of cochineal will tint a beautiful pink, and flavor this with either rose or vanilla. Flavor some of the plain white with vanilla, and some with lemon. It is most satisfactory to have by far the largest portion of the cream fla- vored with vanilla. Then with the tips of the fingers form both the pink and white into small balls. If the cream is too soft, stiffen with more sugar. Creani Walnuts. — On some fondants place an English walnut meat on each side ; on others, a half of a date, and roll almonds inside some of the others. Then when you have as many cream walnuts, dates and almonds as you wish, use the remainder for the chocolate drops. Chocolate Drops. — For the coating get the rough, sweetened chocolate, which confectioners sell by the bulk. This may be melted in the chafing-dish by being broken into small lumps and stirred until it is smooth and glossy. Then dip the balls in the mixture until covered, and drop on sheets of waxed paper. Nut Cream. — With a portion of the plain cream — I am presuming that you nre making the candies on a large scale — and the broken bits of all the kinds of nuts, mould a loaf, which is to be cut in slices CANDIES. 553 when thoroughly cold ; or cut in small squares and roll in waxed paper if it is to be kept. Pluiu Pudding- Candy. — Plum pudding candy is a collection of all available fruits and nuts, held together by a fondant of white of egg mixed with powdered sugar. Use figs, candied cherries, citron, pineapple, raisins, with a light blending of spices, and a few almonds blanched and chopped, or other variety of nuts. Mix the materials thoroughly, and pack in a box or tin lined with paraffin paper, leav- ing the mixture to ripen for a few hours. It may then be cut in small cubes with a sharp knife, and each cube wrapped in a piece of paper, as caramels are prepared, or cut in slices. Orange Creams. — Instead of using water with the white of egg, take a little of the latter, as much orange juice, and then the sugar to make a cream stiff enough to handle. This cream cannot be used for any other candy, but may be combined with candied orange; but this orange cream formed into balls makes a delicious sweetmeat. Choose a sour orange for these. Lemon can be made in the same way, and may be used with the orange. Coffee Creams. — By using a little of the white of egg with coffee you will have coffee creams. Whenever any other liquid is used omit the water. Nong-at Candy. — Boil together a pound of sugar and half a cup of cold water until a little of it becomes brittle when dropped into cold water. Do not stir it after the sugar melts. Butter a shallow tin — a biscuit pan will answer — and cover the bottom closely with blanched almonds, the kernels of hickory, pecan and hazel nuts, thin strips of cocoanut, split and stoned dates and bits of figs. When the candy is done, add to it a tablespoonful of lemon-juice, and pour it over your nuts and fruits. Mark it into strips or squares when it is cool. ;N"ongat. — II. Wliite of 1 egg, 2 tablespoonfuls of cold water, 1 teaspoonful vanilla. Put in as much confectioner's sugar as will make stiff paste. Have ready the meats of 2 pounds of mixed nuts (almonds, pecans, English walnuts, filberts and Brazil nuts) chopped fine ; mix in. Put some confectioner's sugar on the moulding-board, lay the paste, and mix well. Roll out with a rolling-pin. Cut in strips about half an inch wide and an inch and a half long, and put on plates to dry. ''QOI(fNG''^'^IMLIDS ■^T-^ Arrange the invalid's tray as daintily as ' -~ A possible, and serve only the amount he can take, ^ for many times the sight of a large quantity of food will cause nausea and render it impossible to taste a particle. And before feeding bathe the hands and face with a cloth wrung out in hot water. Good nurses omit this sometimes, but the refreshment gained thereby often gives a relish to the food. Never leave food standing by a patient with the hope that an appetite may be aroused Ijy its presence. Remove at once and serve again later on, in fresh dishes if necessary. Dishes should be heated if the food is to be served hot, and kept cold if to be served cold. Custards should be set in ice or in pans of cold water. Serve food to the sick at regu- lar intervals, even if only a tablespoonful can be taken at once ; it will help keep his strength. In dropping medicine into a spoon, place the handle between the leaves of a closed book lying on the table, and then both hands may be used in dropping the mixture. For nausea scorch some rice, pour boiling water over it, and drink as hot as possible. SomcDou'ts for the Sick Room. — Don't make unnecessary noise. Don't let doors squeak ; oil them. Don't whisper. Don't make noticeable and exaggerated efforts at being quiet. Don't speak of similar cases with fatal terminations. Don't admit tearful visitors. Don't keep the room too hot. Don't forget frequent ventilation. Don't raise a dust. Don't forget to bathe the patient's face and hands frequently and wash the teeth and mouth. Don't give stimulants unless ordered by the physician. Don't wake patient from a sound sleep to administer medicine. Don't ask the patient " how he feels" every few moments. Don't taste the patient's food with his spoon. Don't masticate loudly and cheerfully yourself while the patient is dieting. Don't prepare food in the sick room. Don't ask the patient what he wants to eat. Don't fail to have plenty of fresh, clean towels. Don't let cold food get hot, or hot food get cold. Don't let food stand by the bed. Don't bring too much food at a time. Don't wet the bedclothing and dress in feeding the patient. Don't 554 COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 555 make him drink too fast. Don't leave bureau drawers open and shades crooked. Don't yawn frequently and unreservedly. Don't jar the bed. Don't rock vigorously and continuously. Don't intro- duce mournful and suggestive subjects. In a word, don't forget that a sick person, if conscious at all, is apt to have painfully acute per- ceptions and sensibilities, on which trifles jar in a superlative degree. When a patient cannot be raised from the bed without risk of exhaus- tion, a medicine tube or crockery feeder should be used, but the same appliance, or even one of the same appearance, should not be used for administering both food and medicine. To Keep Cracked Ice. — Take an ordinary porcelain pudding dish. Over the top tie a large square of clean, old white flannel. Inside the dish let the flannel bag down so as, by all but an inch, to touch the porcelain bottom. Set as much ice as will be needed for a time into this flannel bag, and cover it by throwing back the long points hanging outside the dish. Thus suspended and covered, the ice melts very slowly, even in a warm room. When a feverish patient demands a bit every few moments, a neat little home-made device for cracking silently little lumps of ice, as they are required, is made from a large cork. Into one end insert the head of a No. 8 needle. By merely pressing the cork down with a thimbled finger, the needle quickly splits the ice apart. It is well to cut a tiny opening in the bottom of the flannel bag, that it may drain more quickly. Crushed ice can be prepared in a couple of minutes by chopping off a piece from the large cake with an ice-pick ; put the piece that is to be crushed in a clean coarse cloth ; gather the corners of the cloth, and bang it two or three times against any unbreakable surface, as a stone hearth, iron sink, etc. Rinse the ice first, and use a clean cloth, and the crushed ice will be perfectly clean. Nourishing Drinks. When the temperature reaches 101 degrees or over, the sick per- son should be fed liquids only, because the power of the stomach to digest food is impaired, and it needs assistance. Besides this, when there is loss of appetite, the sufferer will relish food in liquid form after he turns in disgust from delicacies in solid. There are a great variety of nutritive foods, easily prepared, to tempt the palate ; among which are arrowroot, cornstarch, clam juice, jellies, such as calf's 556 COOKING FOR INVALIDS. foot jelly, wine or lemon jelly, meat jelly, wine whey. Mutton broth is healing; and then there is barley gruel, rice gruel, flour gruel, oat- meal gruel, Indian meal gruel, and sago gruel. Apple Water. — Pare and slice a fine, juicy apple. Pour 1 large cupful of boiling water over it. Cover and let stand until cold. Or, roast 2 nice tart apples ; do not burn. Cut them up, and pour over them 1 pint of boiling water. Let cool. Either of these will be found a refreshing drink. They may be sweetened slightly, if liked, and a couple of cloves may be added. This is an excellent drink for a feverish cold. Tamariud Water. — Over 1 glass tumbler of tamarinds, pour 1 pint of cold water. Let stand 1 hour before using, then strain. Rice Water. — Rice water is a pleasant drink for children and in- valids. Boil a teacupful of rice in 3 pints of water. Allow it to sim- mer gently for three-quarters of an hour, when strain it and sweeten a little, if liked. At times when choleraic disorders are prevalent, a stick of cinnamon boiled in it makes a comforting beverage. Raisins boiled in it, give it a pleasant flavor ; so also does the thin yellow rind of a lemon. Barley Water. — A favorite, as well as nourishing drink for in- valids, is barley water. To prepare it, place a quart of water in a saucepan over the fire. Wash well 2 ounces of pearl barley, and throw into the water. Bring it to boiling point, then add lemon and sugar to suit the taste. Draw the pan to the back of the fire, and simmer gently 2 hours. Strain, and cover until cold. It should be reduced about one-half when done. Crust Coffee. — Brown crusts of wheat bread or Graham biscuits in the oven until thoroughly toasted through, but not burned. Break in pieces, and pour boiling water over them. Let steep, and serve as ordinary coffee, with cream and sugar. Very wholesome for dys- peptics. Toast Water. — Make as above for Crust Coffee, but not so strong, and give it cold, without milk or sugar, as a drink. Cornnieal Coffee. — Put 1 pint of coarse cornmeal into a bowl, and pour over it a pint of boiling water ; stir till well mixed ; add a cupful of cold water, a tablespoonful of molasses, a pinch of salt, and 1 pint of coarse wheat or oatmeal. Stir well together ; dust a drip- ping-pan with cornmeal, and pour in the batter. Bake until browned, COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 567 in a hot oven. When ready to make the coffee, spht the cake, put it in the oven to brown, but do not scorch ; break it into pieces, and put into a large earthenware pitcher. Pour 1 quart of boihng water over it. Simmer for an hour or longer. Serve with sugar and cream. It can be made of the cornmeal alone. It is most excellent for dyspep- tics, who cannot use coffee without injury. Linseed Tea. — Place in a jug 1 ounce of bruised linseed, 2 drachms bruised licorice-root, half ounce white sugar and 2 table- spoonfuls of lemon juice, and pour over them one pint of boiling water. Cover tightly, and digest for three or four hours near a fire. Strain through linen before using. This makes a mucilaginous liquid, possessing demulcent properties, and of special value in bronchial affections. Oatmeal Shrub. — Put 4 ounces of fine, fresh oatmeal into ajar, add 6 ounces of white sugar and the juice of a lemon. Moisten with lukewarm water enough to mix ; then pour over 1 gallon of boiling water, stirring thoroughly. Let settle ; use cold. This is a very strengthening and refreshing drink, especially for invalids. The flavoring may be varied to suit the taste. It is often used without either sugar or flavoring. Barley Water, with White of Eg-g-. — Take a tablespoonful of coarse barley, and wash well with cold water, rejecting the washings. Then boil for an hour or more with a pint and a half of clean water, in a covered vessel or saucepan. Add a pinch of salt, enough sugar to render palatable, and strain. To 4 or 6 ounces of barley water thus prepared add the white of 1 egg. The value of this preparation in gastro-intestinal inflammation and irritation is not easily over- estimated. In the entero-colitis of very young infants its exclusive administration for thirty-six or forty-eight hours will often relieve when all other measures have failed. Canned Grape-juice. — Cook the grapes 1 hour, or until soft. Strain through a fine strainer and cook the juice once more, adding 1 cupful of sugar to 1 cupful of juice. Boil well and put in glass jars. Tea and Milk. — An English physician has a formula for tea and milk, designed for persons with weak digestion who like the slight stimulant of tea, but are unable to use it as ordinarily prepared. The milk is put into a saucepan cold, with the requisite amount of tea in 558 COOKING FOR INVALIDS. an infuser or loosely tied in a muslin bag. The milk is then allowed to come slowly to the boil, and the moment the boiling point is reached the vessel must be taken from the fire and its contents quickly strained into a carefully-heated teapot. This concoction is said to be pleasant to drink and unwholesome to no one. Hot Milk. — Milk heated just below the boiling point and sipped slowly as hot as possible, is nourishing and stimulating as well, and will give good results, if substituted, in many cases, for wines, etc. Milk and Liiiie Water. — In cases where much nourishment must be administered in the form of milk and lime water, it is well to know the proportions are always an ounce of lime water to an ounce of milk mixed, to be used at the time the patient requires it. Milk Punch. — Milk Punch is useful where there is great weak- ness and little nourishment can be taken. Heat about one-half cup of milk and water, sweeten to taste and add 2 teaspoonfuls good whiskey. Streng-thening Chocolate. — Take 1 pint of the best chocolate, 1 pound of rice flour, one-fourth pound arrowroot, one-half pound sifted loaf sugar. Thoroughly mix and rub together. A dessert- spoonful of this compound should be slightly moistened with milk and then stirred into a pint of boiling milk. Mulled AViue. — Put into one-half cup cold water 3 cloves, one inch cinnamon and a grating of nutmeg. Cover, set in a pan of water and cook 10 minutes, not allowing it to boil. Add one-half cup claret wine, cook 10 minutes longer, strain and serve at once. Sweeten or not as taste dictates. You may vary it and make it more nutritious by adding an egg, the white and yolk beaten separately, with half a tablespoonful of sugar; pour into the wine and serve at once. This is a drink that our grandmothers gave for a cold, and it is equally efficacious to-day. For preparing it never use a tin cup, as the acid of the wine would render the beverage unwholesome. Rennet "Whey. — One pint of scalding milk, not boiling ; 1 table- spoonful prepared rennet, or piece of rennet skin that has been soaked in water. Sweeten to taste and strain. It will be ready for use when cool. Wine Wliey. — One quart of new milk, heat to boiling point, take one-half teaspoonful of cream of tartar, 2 dessertspoonfuls of sherry wine, and put into the milk, let it simmer a few minutes, when the COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 559 curds are formed, strain off. It is a cooling and slightly laxative drink; it is used when the patient can keep nothing on the stomach. Sweeten to taste with white sugar. Butteriuilk AVIiey. — Boil the required quantity of fresh butter- milk. Season with a pinch of salt, a little loaf sugar, and nutmeg if liked. Pour the whey off carefully. Mulled Buttermilk, or Buttermilk Pop. — Rub a scant table- spoonful of butter into teacup of flour, wet it up to a thin paste with co'd buttermilk, and pour it into 2 quarts of boiling fresh buttermilk; salt to the taste. Eo-o|-_xog-. — Beat the yolk of an eg^ in a tumbler with 2 tea- spoonfuls of brandy, and the same of sugar, level. Beat the white of the egg to a stiff froth, mix thoroughly with the yolk, and fill the glass .with milk. Some patients cannot take egg and must have brandy and milk alone. Others take brandy and egg without milk, while the larger number take egg and milk alone. Some physicians advise using the yolk of the egg only. Egrg Wine. — Beat up a fresh egg until smooth and thick; add a teaspoonful of powdered loaf sugar ; stir in a glass of best port wine. This, when permitted, is very strengthening, or a tablespoon- ful of brandy or whiskey; cracked ice in the glass is an improvement. Eg-g Milk. — Beat a fresh egg until very light. Stir into a glass of new milk. Sweeten to taste and flavor with either nutmeg or lemon. Very strengthening. A pleasant change in the preparation of egg milk is to break the egg into a pint basin, and add about a tablespoonful of water; take away the white speck, and then beat evenly with a small whisk or fork until it becomes light; then add very gradually a gill of milk, heated to boiling point, beating all the time and continue until the whole is a fine foam. A little sugar and sherry or brandy may be added if liked. This way will be found to do away with a certain rawness of taste that is complained of so often. So:'netimes it is a change to place this drink on ice until cold. Brandy Cocoa. — Scald 1 cup of milk ; mix 1 teaspoon of sugar with 1 tablespoon of boiling water and 1 teaspoon of cocoa; add it to the milk ; cook over hot water 5 minutes; add one-half tablespoon of brandy and serve. A plain cocoa for the sick is to be made with boiling water, not milk. When serving add cream and sugar to the taste, or sugar only. 560 COOKING FOR liNVALIDS. Egg Coffee. — The invalid who is tired of taking egg tonic mixed with sherry, and who dishkcs the taste of a raw egg, may enjoy the egg disguised in a cup of coffee. Prepare the coffee to the taste with cream ami sugar, keeping it very hot until ready for the egg, which must be beaten thoroughly in another cup and the prepared coffee added by degrees. Drink it hot, and it will be found not only pala- table, but strengthening. Temperance Egg-Nog. — Take a tall lemonade glass and fill it half-full of cracked ice. Break into it 2 fresh eggs, and pour in half a pint of milk, with just enough sugar to sweeten to the taste. Then shake it well and strain into another ice-cold glass. Top it off with a dash of nutmeg. Cooling and delicious. Mulled Jelly. — One tablespoonful of currcUit jelly beaten with the white of an egg, and a little loaf sugar; pour over this ot^e pint of boiling water, and break into it a slice of dry toast. This is very palatable. Lemonade. — See " Table Drinks and Beverages " for various ways of preparing it. For an invalid it should be made of the. juice only. Squeeze about a tablespoonful of juice into a tumbler, add sugar to taste and fill tumbler with fresh water. Hot Lemonade. — This is made same as cold lemonade, save that boiling water is used. This is very useful in case of sudden colds. Flaxseed Lemonade. — Flaxseed lemonade for coughs, colds and hoarseness is one of the old-fashioned woman's recipes. To make it, put two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and three tablespoonfuls of whole flaxseed into a pint of hot water. Steep an hour, strain, add the juice of one lemon, and set on ice until cold. If preferred, it may be drunk hot. Milk Lemonade. — Sugar, 1}4 pounds, dissolved in a quart of boiling water, together with half a pint of lemon juice and 1^ pints of milk. This makes a cooling, agreeable, nourishing beverage. Broths. Beef .Tiiice. — Slice juicy lean beef from the round, an inch thick, broil it quickly over a very hot fire, but without burning, until it is brown on both sides, lay it in a hot soup plate, cut it through in all parts with a very sharp knife, and set another hot plate on it, with the bottom against the meat ; then grasp both plates firmly and press COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 561 them together, squeezing the juice from the meat; let it run into another dish. This is the only perfect form of beef tea. Season to taste, or take in its natural state. A quick way to express the juice is to cut the hot meat in small pieces and squeeze with a lemon squeezer, or small juice extractor. The juice should be caught in a hot cup. It can be given to the youngest infant, as well as to adults. It is the best food preparation to administer during the severity of an attack of any hot-weather disease. Give in teaspoonful to tablespoonful quantities at short intervals, say from 15 minutes to 2 hours, depend- ing upon the urgency of the case. It may be given hot, or, if there is much nausea, it may be poured over a little shaved ice and then administered. Extract of beef, if pure, contains nothing but the flavoring matter of the meat from which it is prepared. It is, there- fore, not a food at all, but a stimulant, and should be classed with tea and coffee. It should never be given to a sick person unless specially prescribed by a competent physician. Its strong meaty taste is deceptive, and a person depending upon it alone for food would die of starvation. Beef Tea. — One pound of lean beef (not one scrap of fat must be admitted) cut in small bits and put in a wide-mouthed bottle with- out water ; cork closely, set in a kettle of cold water, bring to a boil and keep boiling for 3 or 4 hours, until the meat in the bottle is like white rags. Press out the juice and season with a little salt. This troublesome way of making beef tea used to be considered the only method, but either of the above given are preferable. Moulded Beef Tea. — Put a pound of lean beef, cut fine, into a por- celain-lined stew-pan, with a pint of cold water. Let it stand half an hour, and then put it on the stove, where it will heat gradually. While boiling hot skim carefully, and put it where it will simmer gently for half an hour. When this is cooking, put a third of a box of gelatine in two tablespoonfuls of cold water. Salt the broth to taste, and strain, boiling hot, over the gelatine. Stir till dissolved. Strain into cups or moulds. Set away to cool on ice. This will be found a very desirable change to the invalid. The other beef teas can be moulded in the same manner, adding gelatine in quantities according to the amount of tea. Frozen Beef Tea. — Put cold beef tea in a small pail, set in a wooden bucket, and surround it with salt and crushed ice. Let stand 36 562 COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 10 minutes, then take off the cover and scrape the congealed beef tea from the sides. Beat well and then put back the cover. Do this two or three times, and the tea will be frozen smooth. This is excellent for invalids who must have all their food cold. Quick Beef Tea. — A quick method of preparing a nourishing beef tea is as follows : Take any desired quantity of steak from the top part of the round, as this has less fat and more juice than any other part of the ox ; remove every morsel of fat, and divide the meat into small pieces, cutting across the grain ; put the meat in a dry saucepan and allow it to sweat for 5 minutes over a slow fire, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking. This is how all beef essences are prepared. After sweating for 5 minutes you will find the meat white in color and surrounded by a very rich, nourishing gravy, which, in cases of great exhaustion, may be given in this form. When using beef tea for invalids, a teaspoonful of the best whiskey adds greatly to its flavor and serves as a stimulant for the patient. This is especially good for grip during the convalescent stage. To warm up beef tea, put in a cup, and set the cup in boiling water. The use of meat juice Meat Juice Extractor. for medicinal purposes is a grow- ing one, and is recommended for the aged, delicate infants and inva- lids, in all cases where complete nourishment is required in a concen- trated form. Clam Brotli. — Simmer chopped clams in their own broth with an equal quantity of water, the broth strained through fine muslin, and seasoned with pepper. Hot milk may be added, and the whole served with toasted crackers. Clam Frappe. — Wash thoroughly 20 clams, and put them in a stew-pan with one-half cup cold water ; cover closely and steam until the shells open. Strain the liquid, cool, and freeze it to a mush. Serve in glasses. A small amount may be frozen easily in a baking- powder can by setting it in a tin pail and packing with ice and salt in COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 563 equal proportions. The mixture will freeze in about half an hour, and should be stirred once or twice during that time. This clam- juice is also very often diluted and served hot, and in some cases of gastric inflammation will be retained by the stomach when almost everything else is rejected. Veal Broth. — Two pounds of knuckle of veal cracked into pieces and put over the fire with 2 quarts of cold water. Cover and cook slowly until it is reduced to 1 quart. Strain and season with salt. Meanwhile soak 3 tablespoonfuls of pearl sago in a cup of cold water, heat by setting the dish in a pan of boiling water for half an hour, and stir occasionally. Put the strained broth in a double boiler and add the warmed sago to it, cook half an hour, and then stir into it 1 cup of cream heated to the boiling point, and the well-beaten yolks of 2 fresh eggs. Let all only come to a boil and remove from the fire at once. Serve as soon as possible. Nutritious Beef Brotli. — Allow a pint of cold water to a pound of lean beef (round steak preferable) cut in dice. Stir until the water boils ; it must not boil again, but simmer gently for 5 or 10 minutes, until all the juice is drawn out ; then strain carefully into a bowl, and if there is a particle of fat on top remove it with a piece of brown unsized paper. By this method you may take off every star of fat without wasting a drop of the beef tea, as is done when using a ladle or spoon. In this way you may have strong beef tea in 20 minutes. Muttou Brotli. — This is often ordered for invalids. It should be made as plainly as possible, and so as to secure the juice of the meat. Boil slowly about 2 pounds of lean mutton for two hours ; skim it very carefully, as it simmers, and do not put in much salt. Some vegetables may be added as a seasoning, and for some broths a little barley or rice. Cream Soup. — Sago, pearl tapioca, barley or rice may be used. Take any white stock that is rich and well seasoned. Put into a saucepan a half-pint of the stock and the same quantity of cream. When it comes to a boil, add 1 tablespoonful of flour thoroughly moistened with cold milk, and let it boil up once. Have the tapioca or whatever you wish to use in the soup cooked, and add it to the soup and serve. Barley requires 2 hours to cook, rice 1 hour ; sago and pearl tapioca must be soaked in cold water half an hour and cooked the same length of time. 564 COOKING FOR INVALIDS. Cliickeu Broth. — Boil a comnion-sizcd chicken in 2 quarts of water (the water must be cold ai first) ; cover and cook until the meat is ready to fall to pieces. Strain, let simmer, adding 4 or table- spoonfuls of milk and a little salt and pepper. A tablespoonful of wcll-soakcd rice or pearl barley may be added also ; boil slowly one- half hour if this is done. Serve with dry toast. The meat of the chicken will make a very nice chicken salad for the family. Or, if the patient is sufficiently convalescent, make it into a Paulct a la ere me for his use. Paulet a la Creme. — Chop the cooked chicken to a powder, rub through a wire sieve, mix with a little cream and 2 well-beaten eggs, and season with salt. Put in a mould, press, strain, and serve it hot or cold, cut in slices. Gruels. Gruels are generally ordered when there is fever. And gruel properly made is nourishing and palatable, but if scorched or half raw and full of lumps it is most repulsive. Gruels are soothing reme- dies for bad colds. Indiau-nieal Gruel. — Take corn meal and sift it into a quart of slightly-salted boiling water, stirring until it is the consistency of cream. Let simmer one-half hour or longer. Put in a bit of butter if allowable ; add sugar and nutmeg if desired. A couple dozen raisins boiled in the gruel will improve the flavor. They need not be eaten. Another way is to serve the gruel in the proportions of one- half cup of the gruel and one-half cup of rich milk, heated together. Caudle. — Make a water gruel as above, or a Rice Caudle. Strain it and add a wineglassful of wine or brandy. Sweeten with loaf-sugar and grate in a little nutmeg. Rice Caudle. — Soak 2 tablespoonfuls of rice in cold water for an hour. Drain and simmer in a pint of sweet milk (the milk must be cold to start with) until it is a pulp that can be rubbed through a sieve. Then put pulp and milk in a saucepan, with a bruised clove, a bit of stick cinnamon, and loaf-sugar to ta.ste. Simmer ten minutes longer. If too thin, add a little more milk. Serve with very thin slices of dry toast. Rice Gruel. — Add 1 tablespoonful of rice to 3 cups of boiling water. When it has cooked for three-quarters of an hour, a cup of milk is added, with a teaspoonful of salt, and the mixture is boiled COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 565 for a few minutes longer. Strain the gruel through a puree sieve, pressing through all the rice that will go. Let the gruel boil up for 5 minutes after it is strained. Add sugar and nutmeg to the taste. Serve it with little slices of brown toast. Though this is a very pal- atable gruel, it is not so full of nourishment as a barley gruel, but it is valuable to persons suffering from intestinal diseases, who cannot take heavier food. Boiled Flour Gruel. — Tie a teacupful of flour closely in a cotton cloth. Boil 6 hours. When cool untie, and let it dry in a moderate oven. If the outer part remains soft remove carefully. When wanted for use, grate 2 tablespoonfuls of it, and rub smooth with a little cold milk. Stir it into 1 pint of boiling milk, cook 5 minutes, season with salt and sugar to taste. Very good for children and infants in summer diseases ; also for older invalids. Oatmeal Gi'uel (Milk). — Pour 1 pint of boiling water on 2 table- spoonfuls of oatmeal, add one-half pint milk and 1 teaspoonful salt, simmer in a double boiler for one-half hour, add some raisins and grated nutmeg if permissible, strain, sweeten with loaf sugar if liked. Oatmeal Gruel (Water). — One cupful oatmeal, 1 quart of water, boil gently until it thickens, rub through a sieve with a spoon, and serve hot ; sweeten if liked, add a pinch of salt. If too thick, thin with milk, water or broth. Milk Gruel. — One tablespoonful of Indian meal, 1 tablespoonful of wheat flour. Rub them smooth in a little cold milk or water. Pour into 1 quart of boiling milk, boil 10 minutes, season with butter and salt. Good for a cold. Chicken Oatmeal Gruel (a Couvalesceut's Food). — Boil a chicken till tender, remove the chicken, lay it one side for the well folks to eat, strain the stock. There should be about a pint. Add one-quarter cup of fine oatmeal and cook 1 hour. Strain again, add 1 pint of milk, add salt and pepper to taste. Serve with inch cubes of bread browned in the oven. Arrowroot Gruel. — Make same as Rice Gruel, taking 1 ounce to 1 pint of milk, together with 1 teaspoonful sugar and a pinch of salt. Cracker Gruel. — Roll until fine 6 soda crackers. Put 1 pint of cold water into a saucepan, when boiling add the rolled cracker. Do not stir, but boil 1 minute. Add sugar and nutmeg to taste, then 2 tablespoonfuls of thick cream. Serve warm. 666 COOKING FOR INVALIDS. Milk Porridge. — Mix 2 tablespoonfuLs of flour with a half cupful of cold milk, place a cupful and a half of milk over the fire in a saucepan ; stir in the flour and the milk, a saltspoonful of salt, and, if desired, sugar and nutmeg to suit the palate of the patient ; stir the porridge constantly until it begins to boil, then let it boil for 1 min- ute, and serve it. Some palates will not endure the sweetening and flavoring, but a simple bit of butter, and some like a dozen of raisins boiled in the milk ; not to eat, but for the flavor. Cornstarch is nice to use in place of flour. Another variation is to make as above, remove from the fire, and stir in the stiffly-beaten white of an egg. Baked Milk. — Put milk in an earthen jar, cover the opening with thick paper, and bake in a moderate oven until the milk is as thick as cream. This is often palatable to invalids who do not care for raw milk. Raisin Broth. — Boil 1 pound of raisins slowly in plenty of water for an hour. Make a thickening of cornstarch, moistened with cold water and a small piece of butter. Grate in a quarter of a nutmeg, and season with a tablespoonful of brandy or two of wine. Sweeten to the taste. Serve with a toasted cracker. This broth is both pala- table and nourishing. Bread Panada. — Six Boston crackers, scatter a little granulated sugar and a grain of salt over each cracker. Put them in a bowl and just cover with boiling water. Grate a little nutmeg over them, and add 2 tablespoonfuls of wine. Cover the dish and let it stand in a warm place until the crackers are soaked, but not broken. Serve in the bowl. Cut, or crumbed, stale bread may be used instead of crackers, or the bread may be toasted. Cracker Soup. — Put a bit of butter, the size of a hickory- nut, in a bowl, sprinkle in pepper and salt enough to make it palatable; break in crackers as for oyster soup, and turn on boiling water until the dish is filled. This is a substitute for oyster soup, and is a very nice dish. Use as much pepper as possible, if the disease is a sore throat. A person in perfect health will relish this dish. Solid Foods. Calves'-Foot Jelly. — Wash and clean the feet of a large calf. Put them to boil in i;t, with Yorkshire Pudding . . 172 Kb <>ast. Stuffed 173 Rm.. 172 Si.'--, Ci|)e Cod 177 St:a<, Ha'nburg 175 Steak, Spanish 175 Shm'c, Boiled 178 Steak, Stewed with Oysters .... 174 Steak, Broiled 173 Ton rue. Pickled 180 Tong le, Deviled 181 Tongue, Braised 181 Tongue, Spiced 131 Virginia, Spiced 177 Yorkshire Pudding 173 Bills of Fare 583 Biscuit 304 Baking Powder, Substitution of . . 304 Buttermilk 305 588 Biscuit (Continued). Cream of Tartar and .Soda, without Milk 305 Raised Graham 30-5 Scotch Scones 317 Suggestions for Making 304 Blanc Mange 417 Almond 418 Banana 418 Chocolate 418 Cornstarch 417 Rhubarb 418 Buns 307 Caraway 307 Hot Cross 307 Puffs, Oatmeal 307 Bread 294 Baked Brown 303 Baking Powder 298, 301 Baking Powder, Kome Made . . . 298 Baking, Time for 297 Boston Brown 302 Entire Wheat 300 Graham 303 Indian 303 Left Over 29J New Orleans Corn 303 Oat Meal 30 1 Potato Sponge 30J Potato Yeast 29.S Quick Buttermilk 301 Quick Graham 303 Rye 303 Salt Raising 301 Serving Butter 293 Table of Proportions 297 Yeast, Hop 298 Yeast Cakes 293 Water 299 Wheat, Quick 300 Wheat and Indian 302 Cakes 364 Almond 379 Almonds, to Blanch 368 Ambrosia 388 Angel Food 378 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 689 Cakes (Continued). Apple Jelly 386 Apple Snow 386 Banana Layer 382 Berry 385 Black Fruit 374 Butter, To Sweeten 367 Cakes, Holiday 392 Caramel 387 Cheap Fruit '. 375 Chocolate Caramel 381 Chocolate Cream 380 Chocolate Layer 381 Chocolate Loaf 377 Chocolate Marble 377 Cochineal Coloring 371 Cocoanut and Almond Layer . . . 383 Cocoanut Layer • . . 383 Coffee 379 Corn Starch 378 Cranberry 385 Cream Fruit (Plain) 375 Cream Puffs 391 Cream Sponge 377 Date. 376 Delicate 378 Delmonico Wedding 374 Devil's Food 380 Dried Apple 375 Election 376 Fancy 389 Fig, Choice 376 Fig, Layer . 334 Frosting 371 Frosting, Boiled 372 Frosting, Confectioners" 372 Frosting, Cocoanut 372 Frosting, Pink 372 Frosting, Yellow 372 i Frosting, Wedding Cake 373 I Fruits for Cakes 367 Fruit Layer 387 German Orange 394 Home-made Flavoring Extracts . . 368 Horns of Plenty 392 Hot Water Sponge 377 Icing, Almond 373 Ice Cream . 381 Icing, Eggless. Coffee 373 Icing, Eggless, Map'e Sugar .... 373 Icing, Lemon 373 Icing, Lemon, Eggless 373 Icing. Soft 872 Jam, Fruit 375 Jellv 386 Cakes (Continued). Jelly for 383 Jumbles, Almond 393 Jumbles, Cocoanut 393 Jumbles, Fruit 393 Jumbles, Grandmother's 393 Jurnbles, Lemon 392 l-idy 378 Lady Fingers 39I Layer 380 Layer Spice 387 Lemon 379 Lemon Jelly 3fe3 Lemon Layer 382 Lemon Snaps 3','! Leb-Kuchen (German) 393 Lily 378 Loaf 380 Maple Caramel 387 Maple Sugar 387 Marshmallow 380 Minnehaha 388 Neapolitan 386 Nut 376 Orange 379 Orange Jelly 382 Orange Layer 382 1-2-3-i 380 Peach 385 Peanut 393 Plum 375 Pond Lily 388 Pound 379 Raisin Layer 387 Rebel • . . 388 Ribbon Fig 384 Rolled Coffee 393 Sand Tarts 392 Snaps — Coffee 391 Spiced Raisin 379 Sponge Cream 3o^3 Sponge Fig 384 Spon_a;e, Small Sheet 377 Strawberry Layer 385 Substitute for Brandy 367 Table of Proportions 369 Tables of Weights and Measures . . 370 Testing the Cake 367 Time Table for Baking 369 To Keep Fruit Fresh 367 Tutti Frutti Layer 3&4 Wafers, Almond 389 Wafers, Chocolate ........ 390 Wafers, Cocoanut 390 Wafers, Cream Fruit 391 590 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. Cakes (Continued). Wafers, Lemon 390 Wafers, Seed 389 Wafers, Tea Lemon 391 Wafers, V'anilla 389 Wafers, Walnut 389 Walnut 376 Walnut Layer 386 Washington 385 Zuinnet Kuchen 394 Candies 541 Almonds, Salted 549 Butter, Scotch 545 Barley, Sugar 543 Candied Violets 550 Caramels, Cream 542 Caramels, Nut 542 Caramels, Tutti-Frutti 542 Chocolate Caramels 541, 542 Cocoanut Taffy 548 Colorings for 541 Cough 546 Cream Almonds 543 Cream Figs 547 Cream Tutti-Frutti 546 Date 546 Eggs for Easter 547 Fig Paste 547 Fig Rock 547 French Candies 551 Fruit or Nut 546 Hickory-nut 548, 549 Hoarhound 546 Ice Cream 543 Jujube Paste 542 Lemon Drops 544 Maple Balis 544 Maple Wax 544 Marshmallow 550 Marshmallows, Toasted 550 Meringue Kisses 545 Molasses 543 Orange and Cocoanut 548 Old Style Cream 550 Peanut 549 Peanuts, Salted 549 Peppermints, Cream 544 Peppermint Drops 543 Popcorn 545 Popcorn Balls 545 Popcorn, Sugared 545 Rose 547 Taffy, Vinegar 544 Wintergreen Drops 544 Canned Fruits 479 Apples and Raisins, To Can . . 486 Apples, Canned 486 Asparagus, To Can 488 Beans, To Can 487 Beef Tongue, To Can 488 Blackberries, Canned 485 Butter, Lemon 491 Butter, Orange 491 Canning 482 Canning, Cold Water 484 Canning, Table for 481 Canned Tomatoes 487 Cans, To Seal 481 Cherries, Canned 486 Cherries in Molasses 486 Corn, To Can 488 Cranberries, To Can 485 Currants, Canned, Green 485 Elderberries, Canned 484 Honey, Artificial 490 Honey, Lemon 490 Honey, Nevada Mountain 490 Honey, Quince 491 Honey, Tomato 491 Hot Cakes, Syrups for 489 Lemon Syrup 490 Milk, To Can 488 Mulberries, To Can 484 Peaches, Canned 485 Pears, Canned 485 Peas, To Can 487 Pineapple, Canned 484 Plums, Canned 485 Pumpkin, To Can 487 Quinces, Canned 485 Rhubarb, To Can 487 Strawberries, Canned 483 Syrups 489 Syrup, Apricot 489 Syrup, Cherry 489 Syiup, Lemon 490 Syrup, Maple 489 Syrup, Quince 489 Syrup, Orange 490 Syrup, Strawberry 489 Tomatoes, To Can 487, 488 Carving 18 Beef, Ribs of 18 Beef, Sirloin of 18 Calf's Head 21 Duck 29 Fowl, Boiled 28 Fowl, Roasted 27 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 591 Carving (Continued). Goose, Roasted 29 Grouse 28 Hare, Roasted 27 Lamb, Fore-quarter of 22 Mutton, Leg of 24 Mutton, Loin of 24 Mutton, Haunch of 21 Mutton, Saddle of 23 Ox Tongue 19 Partridges 28 Pigeons, Trussed 30 Pig, Sucking 25 Shoulder, To Carve 24 Shoulder, Boned and Rolled ... 23 Turkey 28 Veal, Breast of 19 Veal, Fillet of 20 Veal, Knuckle of 20 Venison, Haunch of 26 Catsup and Spiced Fruits , . . . 322 Blackberries, Spiced 325 Catsup Celery 324 Catsup, Cucumber 322 Catsup, Mushroom 323 Catsup, Old Virginia 323 Catsup, Southern 323 Catsup, Tomato 322 Catsup, Walnut 324 Cherries, Spiced 325 Cranberries, Spiced 325 Gooseberries, Spiced 325 Oyster Sauce 324 Sauce, Chili 324 Sauce, Chutney 324 Sauce, Oyster 324 Chafing Dish Cookery 333 Chocolate Cream 337 Clams .1 la Maryland 336 Clams, Cream of 336 Clams, Hashed Little Neck .... 337 Crabs, Soft Shell 337 Creme Oysters 336 Lobster, Creamed 336 Lobster au Naturel 336 Oysters, Creamed 336 Oysters, Escalloped 335 Oysters, Pan 335 Oysters with Celery, Creamed . . . 335 Pan Toast in Chafing Dish .... 335 Pudding, Spanish Cream 337 Rarebit, Welsh 334 Toast, Oyster 336 Cheese Dishes 344 Biscuit and Cheese, Deviled .... 346 Brown Bread Savories 347 Canapes 346 Celery 347 Cheese and Bacon 348 Cottage 348 Crackers 346 Crackers, Lunch 346 Cream 348 Crusts 345 Custard 345 Dessert 348 Deviled Cheese Crackers 346 Flakes 346 Fingers 345 Golden Buck 347 How to Keep from Moulding . . . 344 Puffs 347 Rings 347 Rusk for 344 Smearkase 348 Squares 346 Straws 344 Timbale 348 Toast 345 Toast, Deviled 345 Welsh Rarebit 346 Yorkshire Buck 347 Chicken 135 A la Tartare 142 Baked 13y Brown Fricassee of 137 Boned 136 Baked with Rice 136 Boiled 136 Broiled 139 Curry 142 Curry, Indian 142 Dumplings for Fricasseed 137 Dressings 136 Fricassee 136 Fricasseed with Oysters 137 Fried in Batter 139 Little Dish of Chicken 144 Legs, to Cook 144 Minced 144 Mushroom 143 Mushroom, Chicken 143 Maryland, Fried 138 Patties 143 Pie, Novelty 143 Pudding 141 Pot Pie, Southern Style ...... 140 592 ALPHABKriCAL INDEX. Chicken (Continued). Pie with Oysters Pot Pie Pie Roly Poly Roast Short Cake Sauces or Gravies Stock Jelly for Poultry or Meats Scalloped Smothered Stew, Brunswick Stew, Creole Style Stewed with Potatoes Turn-overs With Oysters, Boiled .... Clams Baked Stuffed •'Claiu Bake" (Inland) Chowder Chowder, Coney Island with Thyme Chowder, Canned Cream of Deviled Fried Fried Soft Shell On Toast Oysters and Clams, Cream of . . . Pancakes Roast in the Shell Scalloped Shells, To Open Steamed Stew Cookies Chocolate Coriander Cream Date Dominoes Drop Ginger Eggless Frosted Fruit Graham Ideal Lemon Oatmeal Peanut Peerless Seed Soft Molasses Spiced Molasses Sugar HO 140 139 141 I 135 I 140 130 142! 143 141 138 I 138, 138 141 i 13G, 92 I 96 95 92 93 93 93 96; 94: 94! 97 I 93 96 96 94 92 96 97 398 400 400 398 400 399 404 398 400 400 399 398 399 399 400 398 399 404 404 398 Cookies (Continued). \ iiicgar Molasses 404 Water 400 Cooking for Invalids 554 Apple Water 556 Bacon for Invalids 569 Baked Milk 566 Barley Water 55(), 557 Beef Broth 503 Beef juice 560, oJU, 562 Beef Toast 5G8 Beeftseak, Chopped, for Invalid . . 5G9 Boiled Flour Gruel 535 Brandy Cocoa 559 Bread Panada 566 Broiled Squabs, Quail or Chicken . 5G8 Broiled Sweetsbreads ....... 568 Broths 560 Buttermilk Whey 559 Calves' foot Jelly 566 Canned Grape-juice 557 Caudle 564 Chicken Broth 564 Chicken Jelly 567, 568 Clam Broth 562 Clam Trappe 562 Codfish, Creamed 569 Cornmeal Coffee 556 Cracked Ice, To Keep 5')5 Cream Soup 563 Creamed Sweetbreads 568 Crust Coffee 556 Custard, Dyspeptic 571 Custard, Rice 571 " Don'ts" for the Sick Roo:.i . . . 554 Drinks, Nourishing 555 Egg Coffee 5G0 Egg in Milk 570 Egg Milk 559 Egg-Nog 559, 560 Egg on Toast 569, 570 Egg Wine 559 Gluton Wafers 570 Gruel, Arrowroot 565 Gruels 561 Gruel, Cracker 565 Gruel, Milk 565 Gruel, Oatmeal 565 Gruel, Onion 570 Indian-Meal Gruel 564 Jelly, Orange 571 Jelly, Sago 571 jelly, Tapioca 57! Lemonade, Flaxseed 560 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 593 Cooking for Invalids (Continued). Lemonade, Milk 560 Linseed Tea 557 Meat Jelly 567 Medicine Closet 573 Menu for Baby 572 Milk and Lime Water 558 Milk Porridge 566 Milk Punch 558 Mulled Buttermilk 559 Mulled Jelly 560 Mulled Wine 558 Mutton Broth 563 Mutton Jelly 567 Oatmeal Shrub 557 Oysters, Grilled 569 Paulet a la Creme 564 Potatoes, Baked 570 Raisin Broth 560 Raw Beef Sandwiches 568 Raw Beef, Scraped 568 Rennet Whey 558 Rice Caudle 564 Rice Gruel 564 Rice Water 556 Soup, Cracker 566 Tamarind Water 556 Tea and Milk 557 Toast Water . 556 Veal Broth 563 Wine Whey 558 Corn Cakes 312 Corn Pop-overs 312 Custard Corn 312 Johnny Cake, Golden 313 Johnny Cake, Sweetened 313 Johnny Cake, Suet 313 Parker House, Corn Cake 313 Crabs 97 Canapes of 99 Deviled 97 Fricassee of Oyster 99 Fried Soft Shelled 98 Hot 98 On Toast 98 Oyster Crabs 99 Oyster Crabs, Deviled in Shells . . 100 Oyster Crabs on Toast 100 Oyster Crab Pie 100 Sauted in Butter 98 Scalloped 97 Soft Shell a la Maitred' Hotel . . . 99 Stewed 98 38 Crackers 318 Corn Starch 3lg Graham 313 Graham Cream 318 Milk 318 Soda 318 Creams and Charlottes ..... 419 Charlotte Russe , . . 422 Charlotte Russe, Banana 423 Charlotte Russe, Burnt Almond . . 423 Charlotte Russe Cream 422 Charlotte Russe, Hard Times . . . 422 Charlotte Russe Lemon 4l'3 Charlotte Russe, Orange 423 Charlotte Russe, Snow 423 Cream, l>lackberry 421 Cream, Chocolate 421 Cream, Cocoanut 420 Cream, Coffee 420 Cream, Lemon 420 Cream, Orange 420 Cream, Strawberry Chocolate . . . 421 Cream, Whipped 419 Sponge, Lemon 420 Vanilla Snow Eggs 421 Croquettes 261 Baked • ... 263 Canned Salmon 265 Chestnut, Cream 266 Chicken 262 Chicken and Calves' Brains .... 262 Chicken and Oyster 262 Clam 266 Cod-fish 205 Cod's Roe 265 Corned Beef . 264 Egg 268 Fish 265 Green Corn 267 Ham 263 Liver 264 Lobster 266 Macaroni 267 Meat 203 Meat, Sauce for 263 Oyster 265 Parsnip 267 Potato 268 Rice 267 Rice and Meat 266 Rice, with Parmesan Sauce .... 267 Shad Roe 264 Sweet-bread 264 Sweet Potato 26S Veal 264 594 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. Crullers 395 Crullers 395 Cnilleis, Cream 395 Custards 415 Banana 417 Baked 416 Boiled 41G Caramel 410 Coffee, Flavoring 415 Cream 416 Flavoring, Caramel 415 Flavoring, Coffee 415 French 416 j French Tapioca 41G Orange 417 Desserts 424 Airy Nothing 429 Apple Float 430 Apple Trifle 430 Apple Whip 430 Banana Moonshine 431 Banana Tajiioca 431 Banana Trifle . 431 Blackberry Cream 435 Blackberry Mush or Flummery . . 435 Blanc Mange, Almond 425 Cakes, Prstache 427 Cheese Cakes, Potato 428 Cherry Charlotte 439 Clabber 428 : Coffee Cup Custard 425 Coffee Jelly with Sauce ...:.. 42G Cream, Orange 434 ' Currant Snow 435 Custard, Chocolate 424 Custar-d, Pumpkin 426 Dates and Almonds 438 Date Meringue 438 Dates or Figs, Steamed 438 Dessert Dates 438 Dessert, Vermicelli 427 i Fig Custard 439 | Fruit Desserts 429 Fruit Trifle 437 (Gelatine, Strawberry 433 Gxape Trifle 427 I Lemon Fluff 434 . Lemon Honey 427 i Lemon Rice 425 | Meringue 426 Meringii", Apple or Peach .... 430 | Meringue. Banana 432 ^leiingue, Currant 435 j Meringue, Date 438 I Desserts (Continued). Meringue, Peach 431 Moonshine 429 Nut Cream 425 Orange Cream • 434 Orange Float 434 Orange Jelly in Baskets 433 Orange Snowballs 434 Plum Custard 437 Plum Pudding 437 Prune Jelly 438 Prunes, Jellied 437 Pudding, Amber 428 Pudding, Cherry 439 Pudding, Cold Peach 431 Pudding, Cu3*ard 427 Puddings, Fruit Sauce for 435 Pudding Glace, Plum 427 Pudding, " My Own" 428 Pudding, Orange Ambrosia .... 433 Pudding, Pineapple Cream .... 432 Pudding, .Strawberry 432 Pudding, Strawberry Bread .... 432 Pudding, Strawberry Puff 432 Pudding, Tipsy 424 Quince, Snow 437 Raspberry Float 436 Raspberry Meringue 436 Raspberry Trifle 436 Rice with Fig Sauce 425 Rice Meringue 424 Rhubarb Tapioca 436 Rhubarb with Lemon Cream . . . 436 Sponge, Apple 430 Strawberries, Custard 433 Strawberries, Jellied 433 Syllabub 429 Tapioca Fruit 433 Tapioca, Orange 434 Tutti Frutti Apple 429 Doughnuts 395 Coflee 397 Cream 396 Graham 397 Indian Meal 397 Love Knots .... 397 Molasses 397 Raised 396, 397 Without Shortening 396 Ducks 146 Boned • • • 147 Boiled 147 Broiled 147 Canvas-back 159 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 595 Ducks (Continued). Deviled 147 Fricasseed 147 Onion Dressing 147 Onion Sauce 146 Roast 146 Sauce for Ducks or Game .... 146 Sour (German) 147 With Turnips 147 Wild Duck, Roast (Western Style) . 160 Dumplings . 338 Baked Apple 338 Berry 340 Boiled Apple • • 339 Dough 340 Lemon 340 Peach 339 Plain 338 Plum 339 Preserve 340 Puff Balls 340 Rice 340 Rice Apple 340 Strawberry 339 Suet 338 Eggs 218 A la Mode 225 Brine for 218 Boiled in the Shell 219 Baked 220 Boiled with Cream Sauce 221 Baskets 222 Breaded 226 Beauregard 225 Curried 223 Columbus 222 Curry, Soft Egg -224 Cupped 224 Custards, Breakfast 224 Deviled 224 Egg Vermicelli •. . . . 224 Fricasseed 223 Fried 220 Griddled 220 Honeycomb 225 Ham and Eggs Baked 225 In Scallop Shells 221 Minced 225 Nests 223 Omelet, Foam 226 On Rice 225 Omelet, Parsley 226 Omelet, Plain 226 Omelet, Oyster 227 Eggs (Continued). Omelet with Jelly 230 Omelet, Bread 227 Omelet, Cheese 227 Omelet, with Corn 228 Omelet, Asparagus 228 Omelet, Cabbage 228 Omelet, Onion 228 Omelet with Peas 228 Omelet, Spanish 229 Omelet, Apple 229 Omelet, Peach 230 Omelet, Strawberry 230 Omelet, Sweet 230 Omelet, Rice 229 Omelet, Codfish 227 Omelet, Cauliflower 228 Omelet, Tomato 228 Omelet, Potato 228 Packing 218 Poached 219 Pickled 223 Poached, Spanish Style 223 Scalloped 221 Scrambled 221 Scrambled, with Bacon 221 Steamed 220 Smothered 220 Stuffed 222 Salad 222 Spanish Scrambled 223 Sour (German Style) 224 With Gravy, Poached 219 Entrees 349 Cauliflower 351 Cheese 350 Chicken 350 Chicken and Ham 350 Ground Rice 352 Meat 350 Plain 351 Potato 351 Potato Souffle 352 Salmon 349 Soufile-Tin 352 Fish 103 Baked 106 Broiled 104 Baked and Stuffed 106 Bass Breaded 122 Bass, Pike and Pickerel 122 Blue Fish Baked 122 Blue Fish Broiled 122 596 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. Fish (Continued). Brook Trout 125 Chowder, Fish 125 Chowder, Sail Fish 119 Cod a la I'lamande 118 Cod Fish 117 Cod Fish, Baked, Stuffed 117 Cod Fish and Eggs 119 Cod Fish Balls and Bacon .... 120 Cod Fish, Boiled 117 Cod Fish, Creamed 119 Coil Creamed in a Potato Case . . . 118 Cod's Roe 118 Cods Roe Pudding 118 Cod Fish Stew 118 Dainty Baked Fish 107 Eels 126 Eels Baked 126 Eels Broiled 126 Eel Chowder 126 Eels, Fried 126 Eel Stew 126 Fish Balls, Old-Fashioned .... 120 Fish, Breaded 120 Fish Croquettes, with Cream Sauce . 121 Fish Curry 121 Fillets of 107 Fish, Flaked ... 122 Fish, Force-Meat Balls 123 Fish Hash 121 Fish, Potted 125 Fish Puffs 120 Fish Souffle 123 Fish Stew 121 Gravy, Plain 103 Haddock, Fillet of 123 Haddock, Smoked 124 Halibut 110 Halibut, Baked 110 Halibut, Boiled 110 Halibut, Fillet of Ill Halibut Steak, Baked HO Halibut Steak, Cold Ill Halibut Steak, Fried HI Halibut Steak, Stuffed Ill How to Scale 103 Mackerel 109 Mackerel, Baked and Stuffed ... 109 Mackerel, Boiled Fresh 109 Mackerel, Broiled Spanish .... 109 Mackerel, Salt, Baked 110 Mackerel, Salt, Broiled 109 Mackerel, Spiced 110 Pike, Creamed 122 Red Snapper, Baked 108 Fish (Continued). Red Snapper, liaked a la Creole . . 109 Red Snapper, Boiled 108 Salmon 114 Salmon, Baked 115 Salmon, Boiled II4 Salmon, Broiled 116 Salmon, Canned, Plain 117 Salmon, Deviled 117 .Salmon, Fresh Fried 116 Salmon on Toast J K! Salmon, Pickled 11(1 Salmon Pie 11() Salmon Saline 116 Salmon, St. Croix 116 Salmon Trout, Baked ...... 115 Salt Codfish • . 118 Salt Cod, Broiled 119 Sardines, Broiled 125 Sardines, Deviled, on Toast .... 125 Shad 112 Shad, Baked and Stuffed 114 Shad, Boned 112 Shad, Broiled 114 Shad, Planked 113 Shad Roe 112 Sheepshead 122 Shrimps, Creamed 124 Shrimps, Deviled 124 Shrimps on Toast 124 Smelts, Fried 124 Trout, Fried 123 Turbot a la Creme 124 White Fish, Baked 120 White Fish, Planked 120 White Fish, Salt 121 Fritters 26H Apple 274 Apricot 275 Banana 274 Beef 270 Bread 270, 275 Calves' Brains 269 Cauliflower 272 Celery 271 Clam' 269 Coffee 275 Crab 269 Cream 275 Cream Puff 275 Cucumber 271 Currant 272,273 Custard 27 ' Dessert 2'W ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 697 Fritters (Continued). l-ibh Roe 269 Fritter Batter 268 Fruit 272 Graham 270 Green Corn 27 1 Green Pea 271 Ham 270 Hominy 272 Jam 270 Orange 272 Oyster 269 Peach 273 Pear 274 Pineapple 273 Pork 270 Potato 270 Spinach 272 Strawberry 274 Summer Squash 271 Tomato • • 270 Tongue 270 Frog's Legs 155 Fried 155 Fruit Salads 440 Apple 441 Banana 440 French Banana 441 Fruit Gelatine 440 Orange 441 Peach 441 Strawberry 441 Sweet Orange 441 Game 149 Bread Sauce for 150 Dressing for Broiled 151 How to Cook 150 Geese 144 Apple Dressing or Stuffing .... 145 Apple Sauce for Meats 145 Deviled , . . . 145 Force Meat Balls 146 Potato Stuffing 145 Roast 144 Stuffed with Sauerkraut ..'.... 145 Gems 308 Apple ....._. 308 Graham (with Baking Powder) . . 308 Oatmeal 809 Rye 3< 9 Wheat 309 Gingerbreads 401 Cake, Ginger Layer 402 Cakes, Ginger 403 Cream 401 Date 402 Fruit 402 Gems, Ginger 403 Gingerbread Card 402 Ginger Nuts 403 Maple Molasses 401 Old-fashioned 402 Poverty 402 Snaps 404 Snaps, Our 404 Soft 402 Sponge 401 Griddle Cakes 314 A la Celestine 317 Buckwheat 314 Buckwheat, Quick 314 Crushed Wheat 316 Dessert 316 Flannel 315 Flapjacks 315 Graham, Quick 315 Graham, Raised 315 Grandma's 316 Oyster 316 Oyster, a Supper Dish 316 Pancakes, with Sauce 317 Rye 315 Swedish 316 Wheat, Sweet Milk 316 Hare 154 Hare, Stewed 154 Jugged 154 Larded 154 Roast 154 Hashes, Cold Meats, etc 204 Apple Hash 210 Beef Balls 205 Beef Cakes 207 Beef Pie 205 Beef a la Hamburg 206 Beef, Cannelon of 205 Beef, Warmed Over with Potato Border 205 Beef Patties 205 Beef, Frizzled Corned 207 Beef, Hashed 209 Beef, Fricasseed 2O8 Rubblp anH Squeak 208 Beef, Deviled 211 Beefsteak Pie 209 ■)98 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. Hashes, Cold Meats, etc. (Continued). licet" Olives 2U7 Beef, Sliced, or other Meat .... 20G Corned Beef Hash 209 Cottage Pie 208 Chicken, Saline of 217 Chicken Dumplings 217 Chicken, Deviled 215 Fowl, Fricassee of Cold Roast . . . 216 Fish Flakes 216 Hash, with Bread 210 Hash, Creamed 210 Hash, Baked 209 Ham, Jellied 212 Ham and Tomatoes 213 Ham Patties 213 Ham, Deviled 213 Hash with Raw Potatoes 209 Ham on Potatoes 212 Ham, Scalloped 213 Ham and Macaroni 212 Ham, Curried 212 Ham, Mince with Eggs 217 Loaves, Westphalia 212 Lamb Pie 214 Meat, Cold and Tomatoes 207 Mince, Missouri 205 Meat, Hashed on Toast 210 Mutton, Hashed 214 Meat, Deviled Cold 217 Mutton, Haricot of 214 Mutton, Frizzled . 214 Mutton or Lamb, Minced 213 Mutton, Cold Sliced 214 Noodles and Meat Stew 214 Petits I'ains 210 Salad, Luncheon (Boiled Meat) . . 217 Scallop, Western 207 Stew, Irish 208 Tongue, Savory 214 Turbot a la Creme 216 Turkey, Scalloped ....... 215 Veal Pates 210 Veal Cutlets, Cold 212 Veal a la Bombay 211 Veal, Deviled 211 Veal a la Princess . 211 Veal, Ragout of . 212 Veal and Ham Pie 208 Veal, Minced ........ 211 Veal Terrapin 215 Wonders 210 Ices and Ice Cream 507 .Mniond 511 Banana, Irozen 51 G Ices and Ice Cream (Continued). Banana, Glace 516 Blackberry Ice 521 Blueberry 514 Caramel 513 Cherry 512 Cherries, Frozen 510 Cherry Ice 520 Chestnut 512 Chocolate 512 Chocolate Moss 512 Cocoanut 513 Cochineal Coloring 508 Coffee 512 Colors for Ices 507, 508 Currant 514 Currant and Raspberry • 513 Currant Ice 520 Fried 511 Frozen Custard 511 Frozen Fruits . 517 Grape Water Ice 520 Ice Cream Pudding, Strawberry . . 518 Lemon 511 Lemon Ice 520 Moulding 509 Moulds for Creams 509 Orange 515 Oranges, Frozen 516 Orange Granito 517 Orange Ice 520 Packing 508 Peach 515 Peaches and Cream 517 Peaches, Frozen 517 Peach Granito 517 Pineapple 513 Pineapple Ice 520 Pistachio Ice Cream 512 Pudding, Frozen 519 Pudding, Nesselrode 519 Punch Souffle 523 Pudding, Tuscan 518 Raspberry 514 Raspberries, Frozen 519 Rice Pudding, Iced 519 Sherbets 521 Sherbet, Apricot 521 Sherbet, Grape • . 522 Sherbet, Lemon 521 Sherbet, Milk 522 Sherbet, Orange . • • 521 Sherbet, Pineapple 522 Sherbet, Strawberry 521 Snow Cream 511 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 599 Ices and Ice Cream (Continued), borbcts 522 Sorbet, Banana 523 Sorbet de Raisin 523 Sorbet, Wild Cherry and Almond , . 523 Strawberry 515 Strawberries, Frozen 515 Strawberry Ice 520 Tapioca Ice . 521 Tutti-fiutli 515 Tutti frutti Flavoring 510 Vanilla 511 Watermelon, Frozen 516 With Eggs 511 Without Eggs 511 Without Ice 509 Jellies 465 Apple 467 Blackberry 471 Calf's Foot 478 Cider 478 Cherry 474, 476 Coffee 476 Combination 474 Crabapple 470 Cranberry 471 Currant 470 Fancy 475 General Rule for 466 Gooseberry 474 Green Grape 469 Huckleberry 474 Lemon . . 475 Orange 472, 475 Peach 473, 476 Pear 473 Pineapple 476 Plum 472, 473 Quince 468 Quince and Apple 469 Raspberry 471 Ripe Grape 469 Rhubarb 471, 472 Strawberry 473 Tomato 473 Wine 477 Kidneys 184 Baked 184 Slew on Toast ........ 184 Lobsters 86 A la Bordelaise 88 A la Newburg 90 Baked 88 Lobsters (Continued). Boiled gg Broiled gy Canapes of 92 Chops 89 Chowder 99 Curried 91 Cutlets 91 Deviled 92 Farcie 91 Fricassee 39 Luncheon 9Q Mayonnaise 90 Patties 92 Potted 90 Sauce 87 Scalloped gg Stewed 91 To Cook Canned 89 Meats 161 Bacon igg Beef 162 Broiling 171 Glace, How to Use 170 Hints on Cooking 169 Lamb, House 166 Mutton, The Best 164 Pork 166 Roasts 170 Salt 171 Tough 171 Tainted 172 Veal 163 Venison 168 Muffins 309 English 310 Plain 309 Raised 310 Mutton 190 Chops in Paper 193 Imitation Barbecue 195 Leg of Mutton, with Caper Sauce, Boiled 192 Leg of Mutton, Roasted, Stuffed . . 191 Lamb, Braised 193 Love in Disguise 194 Lamb and Green Peas 194 Lamb, Roast . 193 Lamb Pie 194 Lamb, Grilled 193 Mutton Roast -190 Pie 192 With Browned Potatoes 191 ooo ALPHABETICAL INDEX. Mutton (Continued). Steak with Rice 193 With Oysters, Shoulder of 191 With Tomato Pie 192 With Potato Pie 192 Oysters 68 A la Newburg 70 A la Normandie 85 A la Poulette 79 Au Beurre Noir 81 Bisque 70 Baked • . . . 74 Broiled 75 Cocktails 86 Creamed 70 Curled 81 Croustade of 82 Chowder 71 Curried 76 Deviled 83 Egg Stew 70 Fried with Mushrooms 73 Fricassee of 75 Frietl in Butter 73 Fried 71 Griddle Cakes 80 Griddled 77 Grilled 77 Loaf 82 Macaroni and Oysters 75 Mushroom and Oyster Pates .... 78 Mushroom Ragout 80 On the Half-Shell 69 On Crackers 77 On Toast 76 Oyster Pats 79 Oysters and Spaghetti 75 Oyster Vol and Vent 76 Oysters and Rice 76 Pates 78 Pie 80 Potpie 85 Pigs in Blankets, Little 84 Patties 77 Pie, Boston 81 Pies, Little 81 Pickled 83 Panned 74 Pan Roast 74 Quick Fried 73 Rarebit 85 Raw 68 Restaurant, Fried 73 Sausages 86 Smothered ........... 86 Oysters (Continued). Short-cake 86 Stewed with Celery 70 Sauce for Raw 69 Sante 85 Stew 70 Scalloped 71 Stew, Plain 70 Stew, Dry 70 Scalloped with Hard Boiled Eggs . 72 Steamed 74 Stuffed 84 Veal and Oyster Pie 88 Partridges 155 Roast 155 Pickles 492 Apples 503 Apple Vinegar 501 Beet 501, 506 Blackberries 505 Blackberries, Spiced 505 Cabbage ' . . . . 497, 506 Cabbage, Philadelphia Pepper . . . 497 Cauliflower 497 Celery Roots 501 Citron 503 Cherries 506 Cherry 500 Chow-chow, Beet 500 Chow-chow, Mustard 499 Crabapples 504 Cucumber 493, 494 Cucumbers, Brine for 495 Cucumbers, Ripe 504 Cucumbers, Spiced 495 Green Tomato 496 Grapes, Spiced 505 Mangoes 497 Mixed Sw^eet 506 Mushroom 500 Muskmelon 504 Mustard for Pickles 495 Mustard Pickle 499 Onion 498 Peaches and Apricots 501 Peach Mangoes 498, 503 Peaches, Spiced 503 Peaches, Sweet Pickled 502 Pears 503 Plums 505 Piccalilli 499 Pickles, To Keep Firm 493 Pickles, To Keep Green 493 Quinces 505 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 001 Pickles (Continned). Ripe Tomato 496 Spiced Vinegar 496 String Beans 500 Sweet Corn 500 Sweet Pickles 502 Vinegar Celery 502 Vinegar Honey 502 Vinegar Potato 502 Vinegar, Onion 502 Watermelon 504 Pies and Pastry 353 Apple 357 Apple Meringue 358 Apricot, Dried 361 Cheese Cakes 363 Cherry 361 Chocolate 359 Cocoanut Cheese Cakes 363 Cranberry Meringue 359 Cranberry Molasses 360 Custard, Plain 358 Custard Pumpkin 358 Eggless Pumpkin 358 Frosting 356 Gooseberry Tart 360 Green Tomato 361 Harlequin Cream 358 How to Make 355 Lemon and Molasses 357 Lemon Meringue 356 Lemon without Eggs 357 Maids of Honor 363 Meringue for Puddings or Pies . . . 360 Meringue Squash 359 Meringue Strawberry 361 Mincemeat, Extra 355 Mince, Mock 356 Orange 357 Pastry, Glazing 356 Peach 360 Peach Meringue 360 Peach Custard 361 Pie Crust, Plain 355 Plain Pumpkin 359 Pork Apple 358 Ripe Tomato 361 Sliced Lemou 357 Squash 359 Tarts and Cheese Cakes 361 Tarts, Apple 362 Tarts, Berry 362 Tarts, Chocolate 362 Tarts, Cocoanut 362 [ Tarts, Grandmother's Apple . . . 362 Pies and Pastry (Continued). I'anlets, Cranberry 362 Tartlets, Green Gage 363 Tart Paste 362 Tarts, Raisin 363 Tart Shells 361 Tarts, Strawberry 362 Tarts, Whipped Cream 362 Winter Apple 357 Pigeons 156 Bird's Nest 157 Pie 156 Roasted 156 Stewed 156 Poisons and Antidotes 574 Pork 195 Bacon and Beans 200 Brine, to Renew 203 Bologna Sausage 201 Baked Salt I99 Boiled Leg of 196 Bacon and Sweet Potatoes ... . 199 Bacon, Creamed 199 Corned Beef, Ham. Shoulder of Mutton, Brine or Pickle for . . . 202 Cold Roast 196 Ham, Pickling 202 Ham, Boiled 197 Ham, Sugared 197 Ham Cutlets on Toast 198 Ham, Deviled 197 Head Cheese 201 Ham, Potted 200 Liver and Bacon Balls 200 Pork and Apple Pie 199 Pig, Roast 195 Pot-pie Spare -rib 198 Pigs' Feet, Soused 200 Pie 198 Roast Loin with Apple Stuffing . . 196 Roast Leg of 1 95 Sausage, To Keep 201 Salt Pork Stew 199 Spare-rib and Sauerkraut 198 Spare-ribs, Corned 199 Shoulder of, French Fashion, . . . 195 Salt Pork in Batter 199 Spare-rib Pot-pie 198 Sausage 201 Poultry 127 How to Dress 128 Glaze for 129 602 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. Prairie Chicken 159 Broiled 159 Roasted 159 Preserves and Jams 442 Apple Butter 448 Apple and Cranberry 449 Apple Butter, The Best 448 Apple Preserves 448 Apricot 461 Barberry 439 Blackberries, Brandied 458 Blackberry 457 California Grape 450 Citron 449 Citron, Home-made 464 Cherry , 456 Cherries, Brandied 456 Cooking Preserves in Syrup .... 443 Crabapple 449 Cranberry 459 Cucumber 460 Currant 459 Currant and Raisin 460 Egg Plum 455 Elderberry 459 Fig 461 Ginger Apples 448 Gooseberry 458 Gooseberries, Dried 484 Grape 449 Grape Butter 450 Grated Pineapple 453 Green Tomato 451 Huckleberries, Preserved 459 Marmalade, Apple 448 Marmalade, Cherry 456 Marmalade, Grape 449 Marmalade, Lemon 437 Marmalade, Orange 457 Marmalade, Pear 446 Marmalade, Pineapple 453 Marmalade, Plum 455 Marmalade, Quince 447 Marmalade, Rhubarb 454 Marmalade, Tomato 451 Muskmelon 452 Muskmelon Butter 453 Orange 456 Orange Chips 464 Peach Butter 444 Peaches 443 Peaches, Brandied 444 Peaches, Dried 463 Peaches, Figged 463 Preserves and Jams (Continued). Peach Leather 463 Peach Marmalade 441 Pears 445 Pears, Brandied 445 Pears, Ginger 445 Pears, Preserved 445 Persimmon 462 Pineapple 453 Pineapple Chips 464 Plum 454 Plum Butter 455 Plums, Brandied 456 Plums, Dried 463 Plum Tomato 450 Prune 461 Pumpkin . . • 482 Pumpkin, Dried 464 Quinces 446 Quince and Sweet Apple Preserves . 447 Quince Cheese, or Jam 447 (Quince Preserves 446 Raisin . . 460 Raspberry 458 Raspberries in Currant Jelly .... 458 Rhubarb 454 Rhubarb and Fig 454 Rhubarb and Ginger 454 Squash, Preserved 462 Strawberry 458 Sugar, To Clarify 443 Sweet Potato 460 Tomato 450 Tomato Butter 451 Tomato Figs 451, 403 Tutli Frutt'i 460 Walnuts r.nd Prunes, Preserved . . 461 Watermelon 452 Puddings 405 Ancestral English Plum 408 Aunt Mary's 412 Blueberry Batter 411 Boiled Lemon 413 Bread 411 Bread and Fruit 409 Brown Betty 413 Cabinet 414 Chocolate • • 414 Chocolate, Cornstarch 413 Cottage, Baked 411 Cottage, Steamed 411 Danish Tapioca 412 English Plum 409 Five-Minute 414 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 603 Puddings (Continued). Fruit Bread 411 Graham Batter 411 Grandmother's Rice 412 Green Corn 414 Indian, Baked 410 Lemon, Cornstarch 413 Meringue Bread 411 Plain Batter 410 Pudding Sauces 406 Queen's 412 Quick Cracker 412 Roly Poly 410 Rhubarb 414 Sauce, Bee-hive 406 Sauce, Brandy 408 Sauce, Caramel 408 Sauce, Creamy 406 Sauce, Egg 408 Sauce, Foaming 408 Sauce, Gold (Hard) 406 Sauce, Hard 406 Sauce, Lemon 408 Sauce, Plain Cornstarch 408 Sauce, Plain Fruit Pudding .... 401 Sweet Potato 414 Sauce, Silver (Hard) 406 Sauce, Wine 408 Strawberry 410 Thanksgiving 409 Whortleberry 410 Quail 157 On Toast 157 Pie 157 Roast, with Bread Sauce 157 Roast 157 Rabbits 152 Broiled 152 Fried 153 Pie 153 Panned 153 Roasted 152 Stew 153 With Onions 153 Remedial Foods 582 Rolls 303 Bread, Twist 307 Egg 30"^ French, Raised 307 Parker House 306 Parker House, with Baking Powder 305 Vienna 3' 6 Rusks 307 Dried 308 Rusk, Yeast 307 Salads 277 Anchovy 283 Apple 291 Baked Bean 289 Bean 289 Beet 288 Cabbage a la Creme 284 Cabbage, Hot, with Cooked Dressing 285 Canned Tomato 287 Carrot 289 Cauliflower 289 Celery 284 Chestnut 283 Chicken 279 Chicken, en Mayonnaise 280 Chicken, with Cooked Dressing . . 279 Chicken, with Cream Dressing . . . 280 Cold Pork 281 Cold Slaw a la Creme 285 Corned Beef 280 Crab 283 Cream Dressing 293 Cucumber 290 Dandelion 290 Dressing, Mrs. Y's Potato .... 286 Dressings 291, 293 Duck 280 Egg. . . 283 Fish ; 2^3 Ham 281 Hot Beet 288 Hot, Deviled Tomatoes 287 Lamb 281 Lemon Lettuce 2S6 Lettuce 286 Lettuce in Southern Style : Sii Lobster 282 Mayonnaise Sauce 292 Mayonnaise Tomato 287 Mushroom 28lt Onion 290 Orange 291 Oyster and Celery . . 281 Potato 285 Potato with French Dressing . . . 285 Salmon 282 Sardine en Mayonnaise 283 Shrimp , . 283 Slaw, Celery 284 Slaw. Hot 285 Spanish 289 604 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. Salads (Continued). Sweetbread 281 Tomato and Celery 287 Tomato, Cold Dressing 286 Tomato, Cooked Dressmg 286 Tongue 281 Turkey 280 Veal 280 Vegetable 288 Waldorf Celery 284 Walnut 284 Water-Cress 288 Sally Lunn 312 Raised 312 To Serve English Way 312 Sandwiches 320 Breakfast 328 Chicken 328 Cream of Oyster 329 Deviled Ham 327 Dressing 327 Egg and Fish 328 Eggwiches 328 Game 329 Ham and Egg 328 Hot Oyster 329 Hot Roast Beef 329 Hot Sardine 329 Oyster 329 Sandwich Bread 327 Sardme 329 Tongue 328 Sauces and Gravies 319 Browned Flour 319 Glace, To Use 319 Gravy, Brown 321 Gravies, Browning for 319 Gravies, Roux for, etc 319 Oyster Sauce 321 Sauce, Brown Butter 320 Sauce, Caper 321 Sauce, Celery 321 Sauce, Cream 320 Sauce, Drawn Butter 320 Sauce, Egg 321 Sauce, Lobster 321 Sauce, Nasturtium 321 Sauce, White 320 Scallops 100 Fried 100 In Batter 101 In Shells 100 Scientific Hygienic Cooking . . 575 Shortcake 341 Apple 342 Chicago 343 Chicken • • 343 Cobbler, Peach 342 Cream, Strawberry 341 Currant 342 Huckleberry 343 Jelly 342 Lemon 342 Peach 342 Pineapple 342 Quick Strawberry 341 Rhubarb 342 Strawberry 341 Sweet 343 Soups, How Prepared 31 Almond, with Rice 65 Asparagus 61 Asparagus Consomme 61 Beef 37, 38 Bouillon 37 Broth, Scotch Mutton 43 Beef, Gumbo 40 Bean, without Meat 50 Bonne Femme 42 Brown Veal 42 Brown Rabbit . 54 Bean and Tomato 49 Baked Bean 49 Black Bean ... 1 49 Bean, with Croutons 50 Bean and Corn 48 Bean ■ 49 Bouille 67 Bean Porridge 48, 49 Bouquet of Herbs 35 Catsups 35 Cream of Barley 67 Caramel 34 Curry Balls 36 Croutons (or Fried Crusts) .... 36 Cabbage Beef 39 Chicken Corn 44 Curry Powder 35 Chicken 44 Consomme, with Egg Dumplings . 42 Chicken Vegetable 44 Clams, Bisque of, with Profiteroles . 57 Chicken or Turkey 45 Chicken Gumbo 46 Cheese 67 Cream of Turnip 65 Cream of Pea 64 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 605 Soups (Continued). Chestnut 66 Canned Corn • 65 Cream of Corn 64 Celery Vinegar 35 Celery, Puree of 61 Cream of Spinach 66 Cauliflower 66 Cream of Onion 63 Cabbage (Meatless) 62 Cat-fish 58 Clams, Bisque of 56 Cream, Vegetable 63 Celery, Oyster 55 Clam I3ouillon 56 Dried Green Pea 51 Dumplings for Soup Sj Egg Balls (or Quenelles) 36 Egg Dumplings 37 Economical 47 Economical Celery 62 French Beef 39 Family 40 Fish Cream 58 Flounders, Bisque of 58 Frogs' Legs 54 Giblet 45 Gumbo 46 Gumbo, with Crabs 47 Game, Puree of 53 Gumbo Filee 47 Game 51 Green Turtle a la Creole 59 Green Pea 64 Green Pea without Meat 51 Game Soups 53 Green Turtle 58 Herb Spirit 35 Ham Bone 48 Hasty 52 Julienne 47 Lobster 57 Lamb Broth 44 Lobster Bisque 57 Liebig's Rice 65 Liebig Tomato 60 Little Neck Clam 56 Mock Oyster 53 Macaroni (Veal) 52 Macaroni or Vermicelli 50 Meat Balls, Forced 36 Marrow Dumpling 40 Mullagatawny 45 Mutton with Cheese Dumplings . . 43 Mutton Broth 44 Soups (Continued). Meat Vegetable 47 Mutton Turnip 43 Mutton 43 Mock Turtle, Plain 41 Mock Turtle 41 Noodle 39 Noodles 37 Neapolitan 52 Oyster Cream (Rich) 55 Oatmeal, Rolled 35 Oyster (Plain) 55 Ox-Tail 52 Okra 65 Onion or Mock Oyster 63 Oyster 55 Oyster Bouillon 56 Piquant Pea 51 Puree 34 Pea 51 Puree of Turnips a I'Espagnol ... 39 Potato Dumplings 37 Pepper Pot 43 Puree of Cauliflower 48 Pistachio 67 Potato Cream 64 Puree, Green Pea 51 Pa'esline 66 Potato 64 Potage a la Crecy 62 Potato Onion 63 Riple 40 Rice a la Creme 65 Rice Meat 53 Rice Celery • . . 61 Squirrel 54 Soup Hints 33 Soup Stock 32 Soup Stock, Economical 33 Soup Thickening 33 Soup Clarifying 35 Soup and Gravies, Coloring for . . 34 Soup Served Cold 37 Soup, Glace 40 Summer Vegetable 47 Spanish Bean 49 Split Pea 50 Soup, Flavoring for 45 Turkey 45 Tomato Bisque 59 Tapioca Veal 42 Tomato 60 Tomato Meat 61 Tomato Bean 60 Tomato Rice . . . . , 60 606 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. Soups (Continued). Venison 55 Vegetable Chowder 62 Vegetable, Meatless 59 Veal 41 Veal, Plain 42 Vegetable 47 Vermicelli 62 White Rabbit 53 Squirrels 154 Pie 155 Pot-pie 155 Stew 154 Table Drinks 524 Blackberry Brandy 540 Blackberry Wine 540 Cafe a la Delmonico 627 Cafe-au-Lait 526 Champagne Cider 539 Cherry Water 537 Chickory in Coffee 524 Chocolate 530 Chocolate, Vienna 531 Cocoa 531 Cocoa, Iced 531 Coffee, Boiled 626 Coffee, Creamed 527 Coffee, Egg 527 Coffee, Dripped 524 Coffee, How to Pour 524 Coffee, Iced 526 Coffee, Meringued 526 Coffee, Steamed 525 Coffee, Sweet Corn 626 Coffee, Syrup of 527 Cranberry Water 537 Cream, Substitute for 526 Currant Shrub 536 Currant Syrup 537 Fruit Sherbet 536 Fruit Punches (Temperance) . . . 538 Fruit Syrups 536 Gingerade 533 Ginger Beer 533 Gingerette 634 Hop Beer 534 Koumis 534 Lemonade 632, 533 Mead .538 Mead, Sarsaparilla 539 Milk Shake 540 Milk, Sterilizing ... 639 Oatmeal, Harvest Drink 540 Orangeade , . . , , 533 Table Drinks (Continued). Punch, Fruit 538 Punch, Lemon 638 Punch, Orange 638 Punch, Pineapple 538 Raspberry Cordial 635 Raspberry Vinegar 536 Root Beer 534 Soda Water 538 Spruce Beer 534 Strawberry Vinegar 536 Sweet Cider, To Keep 539 Tea 527, 529 Terrapin 101 Diamond Back, Stewed 102 Stewed with Cream 101 Toasts 330 Baked Milk 331 Chicken or Turkey 332 Cream 330 Cream, with Poached Eggs .... 330 Dutch 331 French 331 Mock Cream 332 Parisian 332 Scotch 331 Snowflake 332 Veal 332 Tripe 182 A la Newburg 183 Broiled 182 Fricasseed Tripe 183 Fried in Batter 183 In Cream 183 Lyonnaise Tripe 183 Pickled 183 Roast 183 To Buy 182 Turkey 130 Braised 134 Boned, Roasted 133 Boiled 135 Giblet Gravy 130 Giblet Dressing 131 How to Cook 134 Hash 135 Jellied 134 Moulded 135 Old-fashioned Stuffing for .... 131 Ragout 134 Roast 130 Scalloped 134 Sausage Dressing for Turkey . . . 131 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 607 Turkey (Continued). Stewed with Tomato 138 Turkey Pie loo With Chestnut Stuffing 131 With Oyster Dressing 130 Turtle 102 Baked 102 Soup 102 Veal 184 Baked Fillet of 186 Braised 186 Calf's Head Boiled 188 Calf s Head Fried 188 CalFs Head Cheese 189 Chestnut Stuffing 185 Call's Brains Boiled 189 Calfs Liver, Plain 190 Calf's Liver and Bacon 189 Calfs Liver Fricasseed 189 Cutlets (b-eaded) 187 Cutlets with Mushrooms 187 Calfs Head Stewed 188 Force Meat 185 Ham and Livei 189 Mock Duck 187 Pot Pie Crust 186 Pot Pie 186 Roast Breast of 185 Roast Loin of 186 Stewed Breast of 185 Sweetbreads, Creamed 190 Sweetbreads, To Prepare 190 Sweetbreads in Jelly 190 Stuffing 184 Stew 186 Terrapin, Mock 190 Veal Ilead Cheese 188 Vegetables 231 Apples, Fried 260 Apples, Fried Evaporated 260 Asparagus 247 Asparagus on Toast 248 Asparagus, To Boil . . • .... 247 Beans 244 Beans, Boston Baked 245 Beans, Canned String 244 Beans, Lima 245 Beans, Shelled Green 245 Beans, String 241 Beets a la Creme 258 Beets, Baked 258 Beets, Boiled 257 Beet Greens 260 Beets, Young 257 Vegetables (Continued). Bread Served for a \egeiable, Fried 260 Bruisels Sprouts 259 Cabbage 242 Cabbage, Boiled 242 Carrots 250 CaiTots, Caramel 250 Carrots, Creamed 250 Carrots, Fried 250 Cauliflower, Boiled 2'13 Cauliflower in Cream 243 Cauliflower with Cheese 243 Celery 249 Celery, Creamed 250 Chips, Saratoga 235 Chow Waw, a Chinese Dish .... 255 Com and Tomatoes, Scalloped Green 288 Corn, Baked 237 Com, Baked Canned 237 Corn, Boiled a la Oriental 237 Corn, Boiled Green 237 Com Chowder 239 Com Collo]5s 239 Cora, Dried 240 Corn, Escalloped 237 Corn for Winter • 239 Com, Fried 23/' Corn, Green 237 Com or Hominy, Hulled 240 Corn Oysters 239 Corn, Stewed 238 Cucumbers 251 Cucumbers, Boiled 251 Cucumbers, Fried 252 Cucumbers, Raw 252 Cucumbers, Stewed 251 Cucumber Toast 252 Dandelion Greens, Grandmother's . 259 Egg-plant 252 Egg-plant, Fried 252 Egg-plant, Stewed Creole Method 253 Egg-plant, Stuffed 252 Greens 259 Green Corn Pudding 239 Green Peas, Stewed 243 Green Peas with Bacon 244 Griddle Cakes. Green Corn .... 239 ITominv, Boiled 24U Hubbard Squash, Baked 257 Lettuce . 256 Lettuce a la Creme 256 Lettuce, Boiled 256 Lettuce, Wilted 256 Lima Beans 245 Lima Beans and Com 238 608 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. Vegetables (Continued). Macaroni 253 Macaroni and Cheese 254 Macaroni Hints 251 Miscellaneous Vegetables 258 Mushrooms 250 Mushrooms, Creamed 251 Mushrooms, Escalloped 251 Mushrooms, Stewed 251 Okra 258 Okra, Creamed 258 Okra Gumbo, Creole Style . , . . 258 Onions 248 Onions, Boiled 248 Onions, Creamed 249 Onions, Escalloped 249 Oysters, Corn 239 Parsnips 246 Parsnips, Breaded 246 Parsnips, Browned 246 Parsnips, Creamed 246 Parsnips, Fried 246 Parsnips, in Batter 246 Peas 243 Peas, Boiled 243 Peas, Creamed 244 Peas, Stewed with Lamb 244 Peppers, Stuffed Green 258 Potatoes 233 Potatoes a la Custard 234 Potatoes and Cream, New 235 Potatoes and Peas, New 235 Potatoes, Baked 233 Potatoes, Boiled 234 Potatoes, Browned 234 Potato Cakes, Sweet 237 Potatoes, Custard 236 Potatoes, French Fried 236 Potatoes, Fried New 235 Potato Ribbons 236 Potato Rings 236 Potato Snow 235 Potatoes, Steamed 234 Potatoes, Texas 236 Potatoes, Whipped .... ... 234 Pudding, Green Corn 239 Raw Tomatoes, To Serve 242 Rice 254 Rice and Codfish 255 Rice and Cheese ....•*... 255 Rice, Raked 255 Rice, Boiled 254 Rice, Boiled Syrian Fashion .... 254 Vegetables (Continued). Rice Patties 255 Salsify, Fried 258 Salsify, or Vegetable Oyster .... 258 Saratoga Chips 235 Sauerkraut . . 242 Sauerkraut, Boiled 243 Sauerkraut and Sausage 242 Spinach 255 Spinach a la Creme 256 Spinach on Toast 255 Spinach, Plain 256 Spinach, with Drawn Butter .... 256 Sc[uash 257 Squash a la Creme . . 257 Squash, Baked Winter 257 Squash L' Elegante 257 Succotash . 238 Sweet Potatoes, Boiled or Steamed . 236 Sweet Potatoes, Browned 2o6 Tomatoes 241 Tomatoes, Baked 241 Tomatoes, Canned 241 Tomatoes, Escalloped 241 Tomatoes, To Peel 241 Tomatoes, Stewed 241 Trufiles . . 253 Truffles, Italian Style 253 Turnips 246 Turnips, Boiled Whole 246 Turnips, Browned 247 Turnips, Creamed 247 Turnips, Diced 247 Turnips, in White Sauce 247 Vegetables, Canned 232 Vegetable Turkey 260 Vegetables, Seasoning 231 Water- Cress, Fresh 259 Winter Succotash 239 Water-Cress, Stewed 259 Venison 151 Haunch or Saddle of 151 Larded Haunch of 152 Leg of 152 Waffles 310 Cornmeal 314 Quick 311 Raised 311 Woodcock 158 Boiled 158 On Toast 158 ^ii^cEtt ANEious Riicipti^ MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES MISCEI.I.ANEOUS RECIPES MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES MISCEI.LANEOUS RECIPES MISCKLLANEOUS RECIPES MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES M ISCELLANEOUS RKCIPRS MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES MISCELLANROUS RECIPES MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES MISCRLLANEOtTS RKCIPEv^ MISCELLANEOUS RECIPE'S MISCEI.I.ANEOUS RECIPES MISCEI.I.ANEOUS RECIPES MISCELl^ANEOUS RKCIPiiS .x^^' o\ >i,* >^>,%. -e* ^.^ '? ^of^^ .o> / V-. •p. aV .0- K^^ '^ ..■v- .0 o^ ^^ '-^ /: H -7-, ^^-^ -^^ .x^'' ^^- V. ' .