Class. ])J) &/__ Book .n3io_ COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT By same . ' HISTORY OF RATIONALISM. Embra Jous F. Hi »I. li D. Wltli A ed edition. One vol.. . Price, $3 50. HISTORY OF THE CHURCH Eighteenth and Nineteenth Centuries. Bj K R. 1! ■. .■ (tBA< 11. I» !' John I'. Ill Birr, D.D. J .-. .1 vols , 8vo. F 00 PUSTP Ml'. "V HI OF PRICK LIFE AND LITERATURE IN THE FATHERLAND. 1 By JOHN F. HURST. i NEW YORK : SCRIBNER, ARMSTRONG & COMPANY. 1875. Entei ■ ling to .' SCRIBNLR, ARMSTRONG, & COMPANY, in tl of I In- I i «« COITEN T S. I. THE HOME.— TASTES AND USAGES. Chapter Pagb I. Encottaged in Bremen. — The Faulenstrasse.. 3 IT. A German Year Market 13 IH. Christmas in Shop and at Fireside 18 IV. Out of our First Bremen Winter. — A Dash Parisward 28 V. Across France to Strasbourg 36 VT. Northward by the Rhine 44 VII. Meals and Servants 52 VIII. Other Shades of German Life 58 IX. The Germans and their Gardens 66 II. SCHOOLS— GREAT AND SMALL. I. Legislation on Schools. — Comparative Statistics 75 II. The Kindergarten 82 III. The Frankfort School s 89 IV. Protestant Schools in Austria. — School Reformers... 94 V. The Machinery of the German University 104 VI. Heidelberg University 116 VII. Halle. — Two of its Nestors 125 VIII. The Berlin University. — Leading Professors 134 IX. Munich. — Doellinger and Schelling 143 X. The Universities of Europe. — Doellinger's Survey... . 153 XI. The Universities. — A Word on Attending them 165 III. BOOKS— WRITING, MAKING, AND SELLING. I. Literary Productiveness. — Peculiarities 175 II. Secrets of German Authorship 182 III. The Manufacture of Books 190 vi Y//;.V/.\ Chaptb I v. Usages 01 i he Gi km *n Book Trade V. I in- Paradisi 01 I VI. Thi Brockhaus 1 fSE.— Perthes 217 VII. ii ind Books.- B11 1 iogi vphy VIII. Literary Characters.— ' IX. Oddities 01 the Newspaper, li- -yard... 258 l\. GERMANY IX FIGH1 [NG MOOD. I. \\ • ■ I'.USINESS IN EUROPF. n. German I > in 1 niform.— The Landwehr III. R] vmv; 1 in. mi. 1, I'm : iv. Help for the Soldiers v. The Pulpit and thi I in rHE War VI. A S\l URDAY LMONG THI l'l \. KX ^PSACK AND A I PENST< ICK. I. Toward the Tyroi 11. The Tyrolese and their Mountains iii. meran and the tyrol castle [V. ' »\ 1 r \ Backbone.— Cri V. Fate of a Tyroli ;e Guide VI. Down the Inn Valley.— Innsbruck VII. Thi Hartz.— The Brocken VIII. Tin Wl I • 1 1 1 S' I»\N' ING-l laci [X. Cassel. — A Bit 01 its Romano x. Two 1:1 n >.— < >i \ N " Hi 1 1' \i. Germany's Athens ■'■ • XII. I'm. 1 1 Meccas XIII. M IRBAI 11 : S< HI1 LEI HP1 IC1 »'- XIV. Down thi Neckar in Vintage-timi 422 x\ I. THE HOME-TASTES AND USAGES. Til !•: G ER M A X - i' \TII K R I. \ Where is the Germm • indf - Wii - e \iiu-. where il"«^ U hi ro the pull hkim- Baltic bi Mu>t !«.• the Ucrmai mL therefore, Name, now, at la (bty bind I When German bj gallant brother, take thy si That Is thi l and. Tlmt i* liis land, th<- land <>f When Where valor lights tl Where tore :mver him and a pigmy one beneath him. N were t larrow, and of course had only approach to what I desired w the length, but of only three-quarter width. Ti. man was out, but his wife pr< of her lord. I insisted that the <»ne in qu narrow. • Not at all." .she de< :r make them " Well, then, I wi>h a larger one than " You are mistaken." she rejoined, ' dstead of different size from this \ "Bui I really am not,' I ventured. "I have th measurement here in my hand 1 knew just wi. I in search of, and must have it." •■ Now / know what you want Tins bedstead is just the thing. Why, it bn I in her ui well worthy of h moment ild have deli leur ol throu i ENCOTTAGED IN BREMEN. 7 toward the street door for timely escape. I am satisfied that if I had stood, and shivered, and argued in that cold shop for twenty-four hours, I could not have convinced her of the propriety of my having just what I was searching for. Subsequently, a humble cabinet maker was found, in an obscure street, who consented to run all the risk of losing what little reputation he had by adapting a German bed- stead to an American mattress. Now, in this whole matter I was wrong. The expecta- tion of finding" in Germany just what one is accustomed to at home, is simply an absurdity. The Germans have as much ground for fault-finding when they reach our shores as we have when we visit theirs, except when it comes to the serious matter of open beer-gardens on Sun- days. The attempts of my domestic group to sustain the American style of cooking and general housekeeping in Bremen continued about six weeks, after which time we were ready to submit to all possible gravies ; in fact, to eat any thing, and that five times a day, that our Ham- burgh cook and neighbor Behrens thought proper in civil- ized beings. We had been in Bremen but a few hours before hearing frequent mention made of the Faulenstrasse. We found that this was the place where we were expected to buy nearly every thing we were to consume. My curiosity was excited to see it, and soon the desire was realized, and many times. It seemed to me, after awhile, that my feet gravitated toward it spontaneously, so naturally did they carry me thither for all purchases, from a tack-hammer to a French clock. I soon fell deeply in love with the short, 8 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. quaint street, the petty brisk' [ue market, l-natured shop people, and th up and down the old worn ntatious independ- I why should not the very d( in their country's glory ? Was it not their I ia that had just left Austria bleeding and half dead at Sa I after hearing the story of th n of the Fau- lensti I loved it and its diminutive life with more intensity. It runs thus, as the Grimms and oth< tellers of German myths give it: — Near where that street now .stands there « thick forest. The trees were old, but very large. Just on the edge of the there lived an a couple, who had seven sons. The father was an industri- ous man, cultivated his held with care, attended to his and supported his whole family by his own i Hut it was very different with the seven sons. True, they had long legs, broad lucks very strong arms, and well-fon heads, and were able to do a great amount of work, ami relieve their father from all exertion. But they » drom "Their parents were very kind ami patient I them. The neighbors said of the seven 1 that they had been spoiled By an ly in nen — which in those distant time- small Saxon town— became in a certain w with the sons of the oil mm, and many persons ma them. Even tin- boys in tl hem passed, - I the brothers I " ENCOTTAGED IN BREMEN. 9 The river Weser ran close to the field of the aged father. Often his seven indolent sons would go down to the bank and lie there, under the shade of an elm, and sleep many hours at a time. In the course of a few months the sailors found them out, and when the boats passed you could have heard the tars say, " Look under the tree ; there are the seven lazy boys ! " But the big boys did not like such expressions, and after hearing them a great many times they left the river bank, and found their way into the great forest. They thought nobody would see them now. So they lay down in the thick moss, talked a little while about dif- ferent useless things, and finally went to sleep. They kept up this habit a long time. But when autumn came, the boys and girls went through the forest to gather acorns and chestnuts. When they saw the seven lazy sons — who were almost grown men — they laughed at them, and cried out, " Here are the seven lazy brothers whom every body laughs at. The chestnuts fall right down on them, but they have not energy enough to brush them off, or even hull and eat them." So the brothers came home again. One would have thought that they would be ashamed to let their father do all the work. But they never offered to do a thing ; and when they strolled off to lie on the ground and sleep somewhere, they never came back until their good mother had prepared their meal. One day the eldest of the brothers said to the others, " Just think how every body laughs at us. We cannot go anywhere without even the children coming up behind us and pulling our coats, and crying out, ' What lazy fellows LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. ■ brothc I the evil* the seven la thers li Lei us do any thin er than permit our g father to spend all hi> th for u All the six remaining broth up, rubbed t . and laughed at what tl. raously that they should li in some other part of the country. A1 they told their father wh hed at them, and . '. . 1 feai . le indu really determined I . which ' iiy, I will . and a new suit of i lothes. 1 proof that is. I will give ea< h oik i an ax and the axes on your right sh ;lk through B I must be last in 1 brothc I in fut , I can pul . furthi ENCOTTAGED IN BREMEN. 1 1 to walk through Bremen with axes on their right shoulders and spades in their left hands. The people came out of their houses to look at them, with such implements of work in their possession. Some persons cried out, " The world must be coming to an end ! " Others saftl, " That is the most wonderful sight we ever saw." On Saturday of the following week the old father gave his sons the money and clothes which he had promised them, and then they started off in procession. Their mother said, " They will all be home again to-morrow." Their father replied, " Well, I am not so sure of that. They seem to be determined to do work of some kind. I think they are resolved to mend their lives and set an example of industry." The brothers wandered far from home. They hired themselves out to a manufacturer, and worked with great energy. They were very tired at first, and it seemed to them that they could hardly live ; but they adhered to their resolution, and finally conquered. They gradually rose from a humble to a high position, and acquired much property. From time to time they sent home as much as several thousand dollars to their parents. One bright and beautiful May morning every body in Bremen seemed to be out of doors. The old town clock struck eleven, and just then you might have seen seven men coming into town on foot. They were well dressed, and had the appearance of gentlemen. In one respect they looked like hard-working laborers ; they had axes on their right shoulders and spades in their left hands. The people in the streets said to one another, " Can they be the l 2 LIFE IX THE F. I THERLANi I \ \)\\>\. . hold theii Bui that very old man v. k. Where ha> \ an tell . it the ide in i n, and how father and mother u humble 1 which lasl .SOD!, There is not room to turn Jit to pro> We I plenty of money, and must build A beautiful j Bremen, I ■ there any hi it Bu! I man i the j id, thou ran right in fronl of the I • — lin. VV ■ I And ENCO TTA GED IN BREMEN. 1 3 CHAPTER II. A GERMAN YEAR MARKET. ONE windy day late in November two immense beeves were driven through the streets of the staid old city of Bremen on a raffling excursion. They were dressed off as gayly as if they had just sauntered out of a milliner's shop, or had changed places with the pied Swiss Guard as the Pope's escort on Easter Sunday. Long ribbons of the brightest colors were streaming from their heads, while their natural horns were supplemented by others of brass, which towered above the head, and were so highly polished as to fairly dazzle ordinary eyes. The stately animals, besides having two drivers, were attended by a well-dressed man, who, with pencil and note-book in hand, waited upon the residents along the streets promenaded by the party, and offered them the opportunity of taking thaler chances for the ownership of the beeves. He was the duly accredited agent of a needy orphan asylum, whose funds were getting low, and whose fatted beeves were sent out in attractive style to help the treasury out of its difficulty by being raffled for. There is little doubt that the odd plan for raising charitable funds succeeded ; for in a land where the amusements, if not the traffic, of the week culminate on the Sabbath, it is not likely that the beeves begged in vain for a benefaction. 14 / THE I AT Hi Tl ttery whs the precurs of those i: with mple v the shoj icrs, and rhe Year M in all : hun< t cities. 1 tion, and t 1 nan fai- ns tl f ] ;s in the main ; but the do but attend tl which tl in unl thn I when il ■ • when tl i I ■ ■ A GERMAN YEAR MARKET. I 5 Our Year Market, when I visited it, had been for some days blowing its horns, drinking its beer, singing its songs, crying its wares, and telling its mercantile falsehoods. The prevailing articles seemed at first sight to be toys, gin- gerbread, and music. All the streets and alleys were alive with organ-grinders, and one was scarcely out of reach of their jargon either night or day. No mansion was too imposing for their attentions. I saw them in full possession of Senator Schuhmacher's doorway, and they enjoyed their leisurely stay as composedly as if sole proprietor of the premises. The market-place and public square were filled with booths or stalls, chiefly made of boards, bat in some cases of canvas. The external angles of the old Rathhaus and Cathedral were occupied to their utmost capacity. It was difficult to see where another booth could be thrown in. The outskirts of the market were occupied by the dealers in crockery and wooden ware. The stalls on the squares were arranged in streets, where every art of the shrewd tradesman was resorted to in order to effect a speedy and advantageous sale. Some of these streets were appropri- ated to specialties. There was one section where only cake was sold. Brunswick had sent its quota of bakers, who vied with the Nurembergers in massive piles of honey-cake and gingerbread. No one but a German shopkeeper could devise so many styles of cake ; there was every imaginable shape, size, color, flavor, and corresponding price. What a child would not buy, an older person would ; and so the salesmen were constantly confronted by adult customers, as well as by others who were so small as not to know that 1 6 LIFE IN THE E. 1 EH EEL. IX! >. theii vould nut Inn all the I in many. .\s I walked through the market, there limit to the toys. Here, iremberg :nted The booths much too small to hold evi small portion of the whole sto< k. were strung up, twisted p nd hung in vai " 'tis from one stall to another, around the lam; and every support made firm enough to near the Irregular mounds of I in ever. space, rose as | i the little folks that them, and feasted upon them in bewildermei also adi lepartment, where the J> n Ham- burg were the chief merchants. The \ r fishmi pushed into the background, while in < them were the soap-venders, lamp-nil trad* grocers whom I not allow to occupy the pi The stationers make a v. : and Gillott's pens — I will not say how at little more than half the shop ; 1 he raphers had galleries in convenient | tion, and in the stalls where sale you n. I fail ' rily h \"U had been wish Tin I •: ilese and Swi^s j • 1 . i \ an important ; the ■ ian \ i .: Mai rheii tn that in some of the good it Theii ( hamois-sk with otl A GERMAN YEAR MARKET. 1 7 ten-up Alpine articles, cannot be bought anywhere at bet- ter advantage. The men and women having them for sale are gayly dressed in their peculiar cantonal costume. The Italians, like Mignon in " Wilhelm Meister," drift all the way up from the Mediterranean to the North Sea, with a large assortment of ordinary mosaics but good corals. One part of the market is appropriated to puppet-shows, which are the great centers of attraction to the admiring peasantry, who come in throngs from all the surrounding country to enjoy their annual paradise of cheap amuse- ment. There are shooting-galleries, circuses, zoological collections, pictures, natural curiosities, dwarfs, giants, and magic lanterns. Much attention is shown the children — a part of the population which is never forgotten in any department of German life. Amusements for their special enjoyment may be found, such as circular railways and hobby-horses moved by machinery. There is a band of music constantly plying its art in the open air. One Tuesday, when the clock struck high noon, the balloons collapsed, the booths were knocked to pieces, the unsold stock was repacked, and the dealers hurried to take the first train for another Year Market. We were then relieved of the organ-grinders, though their places were but too well occupied by the screeching toys which the youthful population had in its hands and at its mouth. I dreaded to think of the impending wilder turbulence of a German Christmas, to which the bustle, joy, and excite- ment of many Year Markets combined are only as the dim shadows before the coming events. i UFE IN THE FATHERLAND. CHAPTER III. cm ON K whoh the G Chi ist- > time— of all th( the m failed to under verj The treasures of ! that lie buried in th rman heart in golden through the , are unl< univei ing is I-will toward men. I a different thin. the An ment, which comes suddenl) Ihristmas atmos the twenty-fifth of I>> in ii I landed, some I Santa Klaus 1 i in Bremen more 1 le time. '■ I kno r him." furnitui CHRISTMAS IN SHOP AND AT FIRESIDE. 1 9 advertisements embrace offers of almost every con- ceivable thing which young or old could desire to buy and give to a friend. There is probably no branch of trade which does not receive a new impetus ; every body seems * to buy, and sell, and work, for Christmas. I do not ques- tion that even the sewing-machine agents sell more of their wares during the month of December than during the five preceding ones. I was in a large piano store one day, and almost every piano was labeled " sold." The clock merchants take good care to have an excellent assortment of new gilt clocks from Paris on hand, for they know right well that if they cannot serve their customers for the Christmas season, it will be many a long day before they can recover their lost opportunity. The same may be said of all classes of dealers. Of course, at such a time as this, the booksellers are not oblivious to their golden opportunity. Books consti- tute an important share of the presents given and received, and every effort is made by publisher, binder, and seller, to make them worthy a post of high honor on the happy Christmas eve. The retail dealers, particularly, make enormous profits just at this season. But, however cold the weather, commend me to the outside of a German ■ bookstore about Christmas time, rather than the inside. You may go to almost any bookstore in Frankfort, es- pecially on the Zeil — the Broadway of the city — and may call yourself fortunate if you can make your way through the throng of customers, and still more so if you can get any one to wait on you within ten or fifteen minutes after you have closed the door behind you ; for, be it remem- 2 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. red, that n<.t t< prietorand customers. A I rerman child is taken into the pure air when he is a fortmj I, and bis child- • hood OUt of doors; but ever afterward pure air is at discount with him ; he seems to think he ha of it tor his lite-time, and to maintain tant prejudi tinst it. The best plan is, to know before you enter just what you wish ; have but tew word out as hie, if you have i< r your lun feet, and hat. For pure air, and a re:. lit of o< hooks, in all departments and si binding, a pla OUtside the window, if you ran secure on,-, is : t- ahle. Yes, if you can secure oik-; for often there . such numbers at even the windows, that you must your turn for a statui. The German retail bookseller tab t pride in his window, and you may expect to see in it the V« specimens that his stock As in th ry available inch, from bottom to top, is utilized. i shelves are improvised, which fairly bend their burden of literature. To give variety ami attractive- S to the scene, tine engravings, almost al Sistine Madonna, and sometimes oil-pain; wiched between the books I tutiful quarto juvenile publications are thrown open at the finest Must while a or map peeps out among the mass, i the second-hand, or. as tl in ( rermany, antiquarian their si brii 'hem CHRISTMAS IN SHOP AND AT FIRESIDE. 21 a good supply of new illustrated juvenile books, to present as good a window as their modern neighbors. In the anti- quarian's shop, books are piled up and wedged in, with here and there solitary pyramids, with a compactness far sur- passing what we used to see in Gowan's old store in New York, and attracting greater and more immobile crowds than Nassau-street or Paternoster Row ever dreamed of. The booksellers who make the best gleanings during this universal harvest are those who reduce their prices the lowest, and get the name of selling the cheapest. But how can this be known to the general public ? Only by extensive advertising. Suppose the Tribune, Times, or Herald, should issue two or three supplements every day or two, filled with catalogues of all the principal books on sale at Harper's, Scribner's, Appleton's, or Hurd and Houghton's. Yet that is just what these men do. For several weeks before Christmas, nearly a whole side of the Frankfort Journal, besides a surfeit of supplements, is almost daily occupied by full catalogues of books, rang- ing all the way up from six kreutzer to two or three hun- dred gulden. When any article is bought for a Christmas present in Germany, the utmost secrecy is enjoined. Various sub- terfuges are resorted to in order that it be brought into the house at some hour of the day or night when the one for whom it is intended is either absent or asleep.- And while the buying and selling are going on, there is a very busy plying of needles at home within closed doors. The young are making preparations for the older members ; the latter are not at all less industrious for the former ; UFE IN THE FATHERLAND. the - ts work for their friends, and parents and chil- dren for the servants. Each group I >m, and thebusii rapidly on within the 1 tpartnu A ku days before my first Chi in Bremen I em- ed an opportunity to walk through som< light There were no dark nights th< we were too far north for that. The natural light, with the full glan unity t thing to advantage. The toy shops were the centen attraction to old and young. In the large w i: were trees stationed, with slendi unifyin the outmost and uppermost branches. The many little cheerful jets shone down against the bright fa the happy children, who held their parents' hands and v. looking forward to their own good Christi. iich might then be hidden in some obscure i 'heir home. The trees were hum; with all manner of little gifts, each of which seemed I parents, for your children's Christmas tn maining part of the windows was filled with other 1 advei it. I was struck with surprise, in one inst it the mul- tiplicity of objects which can lu shop.,! onl\ moderate dimensions. 1 have h.i pei i( I the pressure "i 1 in ih- tutc and the A< ademy ol M when the alternative seemed multitv but I do n l>a< k i ■ m tlii- CHRISTMAS IN SHOP AND AT FIRESIDE. 23 not answer the questions of their customers, much less supply them with articles for purchase. When once you were inside of the shop, you might ask your neighbors when you could get out, but the answer would be one in which they would be as painfully interested as yourself. The great mistake was made in going in at all. But the trained skill in storing that shop with articles for Christ- mas use was the great marvel, after all. Every corner that was available for the smallest object, either lying or pendant, was occupied with something or other. How so much could be crowded into so small a space, and how so many people could get into the narrow door, and be served with any thing whatever, seems still very strange to me. I looked from the street toward the upper part of the house, and found it to be one of the old style of three or four centuries ago, with gable ends, curious wood carving, and little peaked windows in front. The rooms were all lighted up, and each window was densely filled with its Christmas variety of toys as far up as the top of the high- est pane of glass. The shop, with its many customers inside, and its many more spectators outside, was only one of a great number of the same class which I passed during a walk of an hour or two in the evening. The streets were busy with wagons passing to and fro, all laden with heavy and light articles which had been bought, and were now passing on to their cheerful mission in many houses. I noticed that many new shops were just now opened, and I have since learned that, when changes are made in business, or a new firm sets up for itself, the month or two before Christmas is regarded as 24 LIFE IN THE FA THERLAND. the most auspicious rime The wind he butcher shoj ireely less attn than th and oth I te little porkers, all the spit, were d in the m< able, h having a whole lemon in its mouth. Why it \\ lemon in ever) and not an orar_ coul«l not tell. of handsomely were hung the window, and even from one sid another of the shop. It was, in a w.»rd, not any more the plain shop which had been furnishing your table with lor inonth>, but tip ilishment in its holiday spleti to which even the slain I were made, by every arti- fice, to contribute their ornamental qu< The great center ttraction I Bremen was .1 store of the better and he which 1 Paris, and Nuremberg had tilled from basement t ,\ ith a sup: iristmas mere! Dittrich's many times before, but it had I my attention. The room which is entered by th< door seemed at first to be all there but on one side there was another door which led in! m, with which then still oth in the rear of the fust there w l bich led to an entii. \ the this the Inch riated I alar put beneath. Each of tl t had it the on the counters, on ind the CHRISTMAS IN SHOP AND AT FIRESIDE. 25 artificial trees, or on the circular tables. The variety of objects for sale appeared endless. One department was fancy carriages, which ranged in size from one which you could easily put into your pocket, to those large enough for practical use. Then there were every conceivable style and variety of each size ; and so of other classes of articles. There was one room for hardware. Nothing which could possibly be desired for a useful or ornamental present in that line needed to be asked for in vain. A very beautiful room was that in which were the morocco dressing-cases, traveling valises, ladies' sewing-cases, writing-desks, and similar articles, which had evidently been selected with great care, and were now arranged with equally good taste. Following a habit which every American who has been in Bremen can appreciate, I did not finish my walk with- out sauntering to the great squares on which the old Cathedral and the City Hall stand. The latter space, especially, is still resplendent with its gray stone, mediae- val glory. The entire square was surrounded by the pro- prietors of different articles for sale. Here were humble venders, who were not rich enough to have a shop, but had sufficient money to lay in a stock of toys or walnuts, and thus to make use of the approaching festive season to en- large their slender resources. Some of these persons had little booths, lighted up with gay lanterns, and decorated with the most attractive articles to the young and old who passed by. A large number of poor men sat on old low chairs, with bags of walnuts and a little measure in each, waiting to sell their stock. To one of the men who sold small tapers for Christmas trees, an old woman — most likely LIFE TN THE FATHERLAND. his companion through the man;. i lowly pil — brought a smoking cupof coffee 1 then h frame The joy with which he received it, and the smile which his smoking torch revealed upon his count thing rebuke to the discontent which n splendid mansions in evei m of the year. Children and parents — the most of whom were in happ. rty — 1 in groups near the little . wondering at the beauty which they saw, but evidently not ei who had the better fortune to be grotes for toys or nul The old Cathedra] was surrounded by the tree mar- There were beautiful trees, all the way up in si/e from the little branch which a small child could play with, to the greal trie which would require an effort to drag thro those wide ( rerraan front doors. The scene hen worthy tin- study of both moralist and .. The sale went on busily; the poor w< ly their small tiers for the gladness of their humble ho: were tin- rich for their more sumptuousman I ruly, the old time-worn figures on the Cathedral in Bremen never looked down upon brighter smiles, happici tmas tries, than they did that ni^ht. W I know that many a ill this about Christmas, and regard i". V great i B nd all :' incut ami <;. n, there i^ a meaning which \ old a •• inseparably with Chri i c mean at Christ came to the should In- happy. I h n no und . not CHRISTMAS IN SHOP AND A T FIRESIDE. 27 * one case of intoxication, nothing which would lead one to conclude that this festivity is at all associated with any form of immorality. On the contrary, as far as appear- ances go, the religious sentiment seems to be unusually active at this very time. I have never seen more people on their way to church than on the Sabbath preceding Christmas ; nor have I ever seen so strictly a religious Sunday-school exhibition as the one I witnessed on Christmas Day, when recitations and songs, full of joy and reverent devotion, were made the prelude to the dis- robing of a tree which measured nineteen feet in height, and shed the brightness of its many lights upon a happy throng of old and young. 2* LIFE IN THE J \ND. HAP T 1. k I Y. A N American who en! ;i wint< ■**■ with the high wind it him, and him about, for weary mont infly appi ,th whi( as Bremen em ring. and heat are i it in ti but tlu-iv are • spell, with in abundai md then you I rain, wind, now and then a rtainty as I pen next. Th the street. The th North and South that in summei 11 as in winter it out of doors without an umbrell then you : ain. Nothing would content th. ourlittl. whirh 1 mpellcd t. that I when that w arrivi 1 that wii the \\ i the A DASH PARIS WARD. 29 crossed the Rhine at Cologne, and were going over the fields of Belgium, that we really felt the coming in of genial weather. There was good prospect of finding every thing on the Champ de Mars, the place where the Exposition was to be held, in a state of utter confusion, so uniformly had the papers outside of France declared that nothing was ready, and that the whole affair gave the promise of a ridiculous failure. But there was little truth in the reports. To be sure, not all of the buildings around the Palace had been completed, neither were all the paintings or the statuary in position ; but the preparations were much further advanced, taking into account their mag- nitude, than could have been expected. The Exposition Palace, which was in the middle of the Champ, was of oval shape, and modeled after one of the rejected de- signs of the Sydenham Crystal Palace in 185 1. The open center around which the building was constructed was a little plot of grass and flowers, furnishing a welcome relief to the eye. The building was divided into circles. Starting from the central open space, we came first to the inmost circle of chambers, which contained the paintings and sculpture of the different nations, each ownership be- ing designated over the doorway. Having completed this circle, we continued outward, and walked around the sec- ond one. This contained the interesting class of articles approaching nearest to the fine arts. Thus, by complet- ing one circle after another, the outmost one was reached, which embraced that portion of the machinery that was not in special buildings in the adjacent grounds. The 30 LIFE IS THE FATHERLAND. machinery was in operation, and might be seen to advan- cing the high platform, which e with the machinery, dividing it into two cir wnd the whole building. The restaurants, though a pari the : . opened only from the outside. Mow, cut these circular suites of rooms into ling straight and broad walls from the open mid- die through the exterior wall of the edii mds outside, and you have the nations. The articles on exhibition were the circles ; the i The American department had, for somen 'her. ■•» unduly thrown into the >und Maximilian - then in Mexico, and 1 N ained n ing by our war. The space to which we were confined was altogether too small, and it v. this attempt to put Brother Jonathan into which he has never been used to, either on produced a dispiriting on him. Hut om no ground to be ashamed of their represents industry in the Exposition. Our ue eml Vl . IA sa i ry diversity of ait ivies, and. on ins] it was clear enough that these were well worthy . placed beside the best fruits of th U of the most advanced European nations I noticed that the main entrance to the room containing our paint; flanked on the right 1>\ a magnificent j , Esq., of New 1 teral Sherman. inch's • I; ,\ Mountains." and on. A DASH PARISWARD. 31 One morning we took advantage of an early hour, when it was raining very hard, to visit the Exposition, and enjoy a comfortable stroll through those parts which, be- cause of the throng, it was impossible to visit late in the day with any comfort. Our luck gave us the opportunity to see the Empress Eugenie, who, on our arrival, was already inspecting the objects of special interest to her. A light rope barrier, stretched across the entrance of one of the largest jewelry-rooms, was the only intimation to persons near by that she was within, looking at the brilliant array of a French artificer, and witnessing the cutting of diamonds. There were no bravoes. She was plainly clad in a black silk dress, the lower part of which had its full share of white Paris mud. Her gloves, of undressed kid, looked as if they might have been worn for months. It was clear, that in personal appearance she had been flattered by none of the portraits in the shop- windows, or in Versailles, or the Luxembourg. Her real age was about forty-two, and yet she would not be con- sidered over thirty, at the furthest. She was of medium height, had blonde hair, and a tolerably full face. If there was any exception to her rare combination of personal charms, it was a slight rotundity of the shoulders. To the gentleman who exhibited his jewelry to her she was very affable, and expressed her admiration freely. As she passed, there was no one who bowed to her whom she did not recognize. She was attended by two maids of honor, who, in state and rich costume, made ample amends for her neglige appearance. No one would suspect that ami- able-looking woman of being a thunderbolt of Spanish LIFE IN THEFATHl . when the n< ruck her, of the man . le the Count) the Ultram ind the ative <»f the broken-down and d< the ; The Empress 1. . nie had just then I of politi plications of France with Pi : her sen. She was probably mere wrel heart than any one who l"..kehe had perception enough to k she saw it. It was not long, h< the violence of the blast. Only th more •■■• led to bring about Met/ and Sedan i within the portals of Wilhelmshohe ; and I v night from her maddened an ital t«> modest English I lasting - J now belongs t<> hi nd fom r in the id of the misfortu Jt) . i by one of her t w ipanions in flight H i from the Emperor and his army, and the in wild in the strcel t for 1 the i : the : would | her with his army \ and a pledj I men ■ A DASH PARISWARD. 33 would have fallen a victim to their rage. Accompanied by this man, another gentleman, and Madam Lebreton, she reached the street, when the two ladies were left alone in order to escape detection. Just as they entered a fiacre, a gamin recognized the Empress, ran after the vehicle, and shook his fist. But he did not betray her. After proceeding some distance the ladies left the fiacre, proceeded down a narrow alley to another street, took a second conveyance, and drove to the only address the Empress remembered — Dr. Thomas W. Evans, the Amer- ican dentist. He immediately ordered his horses and car- riage and drove with the two ladies as far as the horses could go beyond Paris, where other horses and carriages were provided. Only for a short distance the three took a train. The rest of the journey to Deanville, on the coast, was made in wretched carts. At the hotel the fugitive Empress feigned sickness, and a little food was taken to her, while a gentleman went on board Sir John Burgoyne's yacht, which happened to be lying in the harbor, to in- quire if he would give her passage across to England. Both Sir John and lady expressed their willingness, and with great courtesy placed the " Gazelle " at her disposal. The Empress, Dr. Evans, and Madame Lebreton em- barked at midnight ; but, as there was only little water, the yacht could not leave her moorings until morning, and the cries of " Vive la Republique " were constantly heard. Madame Lebreton was greatly troubled, and con- stantly inquired if the yacht would soon be under weigh. Eugenie, however, was very calm, and, though ill, slept soundly. In clue time the boat reached the English coast. LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. Then came a long sus -then a hurried visit to the -ray and silent prisoner in Germany — and then the q if the three exiles, and now of two, at Chiselhi But we must return to the I sition. To many sons the buildings outside the Palace were more inte •ban the Palace itself. Some were ind others near at hand, hut all connected by winding walks, with each intervei: >und covered with -, flowers, fountains, monuments, and statuar. most splendid of | the Imperial Pavilion, which was shaped something like a flat clover-leaf, and adorned with more rich ami ex; furniture I could make the hundred peasant homes happy. There were many model buildings; such as a plan for an im- proved style «>f tenant-house-, a Turkish mosqu< scale, a Turkish school, a Pompeian museum, and a 5 school-hous< ■• building was hibi- tion, by work in relief, of the I district of the Sue/ Canal. There was an Egyptian tem- ple, sixty-three feet wide and ninety-ti rounded by immense columns, red on all ■ . root by hi< entrance guarded by an a\enue of in mite Sphinx. < >ne could imagine himself •>• Tin- Mexi" an temple was one of thi It was a resurrection Oi the temple of th. All the attendants m the Iritish and I ould hi in which it had as yet been print Oil. I A DA SH PARIS WARD. 3 5 was a house where the Scriptures were gratuitously dis- tributed in separate, books in all the principal languages. The German could get Romans at one window ; the Frenchman, John's Gospel at another ; the Spaniard, the Psalms at another ; and the Italian, Hebrews at a fourth. The Religious Tract Society of London had a house for the free distribution of its publications. One of the build- ings contained a miniature Jewish tabernacle, and plans of the architecture of all the Bible lands. This was one of the best-prepared and most valuable objects to be seen at the Exposition. It would have been an ornament to the best theological museum in any country. It was, in fact, a museum of itself. The Evangelical Hall was to me, however, by far the most interesting object of the en- tire Exposition. It occupied a central position, and Prot- estant sendees were held in it, in various languages, during the summer. The dedication was a scene of great inter- est. We heard William Monod, Lord Shaftesbury, the aged Guizot, and other men of note, make addresses. On leaving the hall we made the acquaintance of Emile Cook, who later, in 1873, became one of the delegates from France to the New York session of the Evangelical Alli- ance, and on his return home suffered a double shipwreck on the " Ville du Havre " and the " Loch Earn," and afterward died through his exposure, in Nimes, in South- ern France. The smile he wore when we first saw him lost none of its sweetness by his sufferings and dangers in the Commune, and the sorrows through which he had to pass as a struggling French Protestant. LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. CHAP! Ik \'. M ROSS l k.w l- i" STR kSBOUl T N preparing to leave Paris f< »r the journey home* *■ and workward, the road t id then the Rhine presented the strongest inducements. The winds through the section celebrated f* »r chamj There is no doubt that nearly all the wine which dined lure i- used for admixture; the a high price can ever buy the vei . even in France ami Germany. What shall New York? There are districts in France that naturally produce poor wine, which is caiclnlly in champagne, and is sold as such, after havii through an apparatus which charges it with In this • i-* bottled, label and in ten minutes is ready for the market. Tin attempt made in France t" keep thi it to he ..ne in any part of the world. Tl in 1 id other Frciu h cities, whh the adul elation ! :t. < >!ie o| the most obsCUl of the Meuse whit h the rail The little chu that half hide all humbl It : ;hbnring field that tin- simpl ACROSS FRANCE TO STRASBOURG. 37 a shepherdess until, as she professed, she heard in the gloomy woods near by — the Nemus Canutum of the Ro- mans, and the Bois Chi'nus of the French — the voices of St. Margaret and St. Catharine calling and counseling her to deliver France from the English conqueror, a re- sult which was reached by the coronation of Charles VII. at Rheims. The only favor which she would accept for her services was that her native village, obscure little Domremy, should be exempted from taxation. So, from her time down to the French Revolution, the space oppo- site Domremy, in the registry-book of taxes, was filled by, •' Exempt for the sake of the Maid." In the neighborhood of Nancy, the face of the country becomes more picturesque. The number of old walled towns, in all their mediaeval simplicity, increases. The hill that is not crowned with a village has at least a cas- tellated ruin which may appropriately be compared with not the least along the Rhine. The castles are in hope- less decay in nearly every case, and half overgrown with ivy. Many of the great old archways are still preserved, and may be seen far in the distance. The peasants were plowing their historic fields in a half-asleep way, and used the agricultural implements of the olden time. The plow, which was steadied in part by an old-fashioned pair of wheels, was drawn by two horses. The women worked with the men, as in Germany. There were very few chil- dren in the fields, a fact which may be accounted for by the new stringent educational laws of France. All the men wore blue blouses. Nancy is a very beautiful city. It has a population of LIFE IN THE FATHERLA I is the capita': The inhab- itants arc very proud of their home. Ulty as unsui At .i 3t ai..n near the city Old peasant man. clad in the inevitable blue blou tt next to me in the nd havi inch muff— which he seemed to consider an introduction — commenced conversation about the beauty of N >• people of Paris think their city very hi. the Old man. with an expression of COI « play! his ruddy but they don't know any thin. |y Nan than our Nancy ? Ju how it lies— right in the mid- dle of that rich plain! Where are you from? hope you can stay awhile in Nancy, and place in the world!" The old man went all the Strasbourg, and he proved to be an entertain uninstructive ] ir want of tin. '■ v we w t,. be satisfied with the accounts of t': the old pei-. int. until the oppoituil more the 1. of the country in th< siping old 1 Lit. 1'- worth a long journey. Ha> ' ' I imnu the Ml id then N ACROSS FRANCE TO STRASBOURG. 39 the spire could be seen above the high-peaked houses, un- til reaching the short street in front of the Minster. The effect of the first view is almost overwhelming. The mul- titude of elaborately carved figures over the deeply reced- ing doorways, the infinitely varied and rich open stone- work above these, and the magnificent spire, four hundred and sixty-eight feet high, standing in kingly majesty above all, produce an impression rarely equaled on witnessing a triumph of human skill. A stairway of three hundred and thirty steps leads to the platform, or roof. On this the guide has his house, where he and his family had lived, as he told us, twenty-three years. The last half hour of clear sunlight afforded time enough to enjoy the wide prospect. Strasbourg, with its curious bridges, picturesque old dwellings, neat little squares, gray churches of a far past day, and muddy, winding little 111, lies below. In the east, the Black Forest extends many miles, and finally bounds the horizon. Away off in the west, the Vosges Mountains, standing out like sculpture, forbid a wider view of the Alsace ; while in the south, the Jura range may be distinctly seen. The next morning there was a funeral service in the Minster, at which we were present, and heard the organ. The interior of this marvelous edifice is in keeping with its exterior. The marigold windows of richly-stained glass ; the graceful and luxuriant stone tracery ; the great Gothic columns, supporting their harmonious systems of arches ; the long and unobstructed aisles ; the celebrated astro- nomical clock ; the immense organ, with its hidden world of melody ; and that exquisitely beautiful and lonely pillar, LIFE IN THE FATHERLANi ornamented from base t«i capital with statw among which Sabina, the dai the Minster, and the only one who could complete the in- ipted plan of her father, stands, leaning on h looking intently through the centuries at her mute and motion kmen. .ere, indeed, has been the change in Si the itiful, since that calm and bloody chasm between the tells the whole story, the fearful French losses. It September 2J t 1870, when the white fla the Minster spire, that the people felt that the. Crawl nut «>| their cellars and e.r with ty h>r six weeks. l",,r th;: ' ir<»n hail had hurtled on roof and CO The number of the German official paper pul I in the its surrender contained a ; lling in- ~l, namely, the numb into thi the bombardment, and fori runs were employed by the the Prussian side, 30 long, and 12 Bh lour pound. twent) -five-pound* pound on the Baden side. .\ twent) iund m pound 1: [6 rifled t .•. four-pound* ra From tl >m th. gun ACROSS FRANCE TO STRASBOURG. 41 Strasbourg cost the Germans about two millions of thalers, every shot representing the worth of twelve thalers. The* actual bombardment lasted thirty-one days ; the average number of missiles sent each day into the city and fortress was 6,249; in every hour, 269; in the minute, from 4 to 5. The total number of houses destroyed was 600 ; inhabitants killed, 300 ; wounded, 2,000 ; homeless and breadless citizens, from 10,000 to 12,000. On the 2 1st of August preceding the surrender, public service had been held for the last time in all the churches ; then these were either closed altogether, or only served to shelter the helpless and destitute. But the people showed a disposition for prayer-meetings ; and one was organized on the 4th of September, which continued on week-days until the surrender of the city. On the very first Sunday of the service in St. Thomas's church, a shell struck the chief door a few minutes before the close of the worship, and on the following day one fell directly within the church. Singularly enough, almost the very first shells that fell into the city destroyed the edifices of learning and the rich libraries. On the second night of the bombardment, a bright light overspread the whole city, changing night into day. A thrill of horror pervaded the entire pop- ulation when it was known to proceed from the New Church, formerly the Dominican Church, but since 1868 the chief place of Protestant worship in Strasbourg. This was the scene of Tauler's memorable sermons, of Media's defense of the doctrines of the Reformation, and, later, of the eloquent utterances of Blessig and Redslob. Even 42 I. Ill: IN THE FATHERLAND. the M>lin the night of the . August it was on tire, but, I theless rescued. M Colani was th J Light of the al Seminary, which adjoined the i III. .in. is Church stood, and. in part, wa burned. I had become acquainted in various v. \. but chiefly th' his •• k ma) b of the fust in one of the mil i Ml M ( olani t the h ACROSS FRANCE TO STRASBOURG. 43 " New Theology," as its adherents term it. On the morn- ing when I heard him, he was lecturing on Moral Philoso- phy. His lecture-room might hold seventy-five students, but there were but twenty-five present. Some took full notes, but others only made a stroke of the pen now and then. M. Colani looked as if yet on the sunny side of forty ; he had coal black hair, a fine eye, and a very fine expression. He probably had a brief before him, but did not use it. His voice was not monotonous or harsh. He rather talked than lectured, and looked at the students at his left nearly all the time. M. Colani has exhibited great energy from boyhood. When very young, he hoped to be professor in Strasbourg, and he worked for it. There was strong opposition to him, b.ut at last he carried his point. He is a popular preacher, perhaps the best of all the New Theologians. Poor in boyhood, he has fought his way up to an easier life. As for M. Colani's capacities and pluck, he deserves high praise ; but as to his mistaken theology, the storms of time will serve it no better than they have treated all the other pasteboard houses that his theological ancestry have planned and reared. 44 /-/* CHAF1 ER \'I. r I ^HE northward rail.'. the * ^t hank of the : in lull ■■ and . r] >untains, and sometimes win theii I • half justice to tl at the outskirts of the plain in which and termina it, whei ann u A r royal captiv< nan em pei I .is m held I deposited here, as the secures! the ruin. . stripped, and its marl I Ik- ruin ■ ■ and ■ NORTHWARD BY THE RHINE. 47 west of the city, is still standing. While resting on the seat around its great trunk, one hot and dusty summer aft- ernoon, in the student days of auld lang syne, a plain peas- ant told me the tradition of the tree : that Luther, on his way to the Diet at Worms, was met at that spot by the friends who told him that if he went into the city he would be killed ; and that he replied, " I will go to Worms though there are as many devils within its walls as there are tiles on its houses ! " " The Reformer had a little riding-switch in his hand," continued the peasant, " that he had pulled from a tree in the Thuringian Forest, through which he had passed. He quietly stuck it into the ground, and said, ' As this little switch will become a great tree, so will the Protestant Church in time become very great' ' : We had a couple of hours to take a hasty view of May- ence, which I have since supplemented by several visits. The old Cathedral is one of the most gloomy churches conceivable. It is very large, and its history, dating from the tenth century, is interesting ; but the miniature Virgin Marys and the crucified Saviours in its frequent altars were dressed off in such fanciful baby-clothes, faded paper flowers, and dusty tinselry, that one scarcely knew which was the more disgusting, the heathenish idolatry or the ridicu- lous taste. The floor consists largely of burial slabs, the in- 'scriptions on which are nearly worn off by the roughly-shod soldiers who have been quartered there in war-time, and by many a dead generation of worshipers. The tablets around the church are very legible ; one of these is to the memory of Charlemagne's third wife, Fastrada. Through the " beautiful doorway " we passed into a large court, one 48 UFE IN THE FATHERLAND. .siik- of which was limited by the church, and the other thro Thf annuul the cloist them an Italian appe The broad stone loisters, like that of the church, was nothing but dosely-plai • the dust of hundreds of dead and forgottei An at their day for their devotion I boli- cism or their bravery on the battle-field About dusk We reached Bingen, on the I we left the cars and selected a hoi r the night The moon shone clearly down <>n the ru: and on the little square Mouse Tower, in the nriddli the river, whose legend has been beautifully n Southey in his poem on the "Tradition of I ul of the long journey of the day, and the remaining weariness from a in Paris, we could not leave the banks of the Rhini Bingen until late in the night Th< foamed and hi- they broke nestling along the ri e the I the hot! re put out. and the I tjni. It was a rich U had, the m dit Rhine until far into thi Wh< returned to the hoi of pi l should hour, and pay him H But | : NORTHWARD BY THE RHINE. 49 The next morning we took the first boat down the river. The steamer was not equal to our " Dean Richmonds," " Daniel Drews," or Sound boats. The morning mist half hid for awhile some of the highest terraces along the mountain banks of the river, but it obscured no castle, and soon disappeared before the bright sun. It required a careful look-out in order to single out the castles as we quickly glided by them. Rheinstein is one of the best preserved. It stands on the sharp point of a rock, and has been restored to its original shape. Then came the picturesque, turreted ruin of Sonneck ; the Devil's Ladder, crowned by the Castle of Nollingen ; Stahleck, whose lofty Gothic, pointed windows still retain in a perfect condition the most delicate tracery ; the Pfalz, rising like a water- deity from the middle of the river, where Louis le Debon- naire retired to die, " lulled by the soothing music of the gurgling waters ;" the Castles of Gutenfels, Schonberg, Reichenberg, the Cat, and the Rheinfels ; then Lahneck, and, last before reaching Coblentz, Stolzenfels, (Proud Rock.) Opposite Coblentz stands the German Gibraltar, Ehrenbreitstein, (Honor's Broad Stone.) Below Coblentz are the Castles of Hammerstein, Rheineck, Rolandseck, and the famous Drachenfels, (Dragon's Rock.) Each of these castles, and many of the lesser ones which I have not named, have a very interesting history, which it would require volumes to give in detail. But it is the same old mediaeval story of love, hate, war, plunder, secret murder, and occasional self-sacrifice. There is a philosophy and progressive utility in history, we must all grant ; but the man who can prove how these robber-knights of the 50 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. Rhine have contributed to the fund of human development deserves a prize from the French . my. But •• be utilitarian in the pi Mich rare natural beauty and rich historical Rather, let i. with Planche, the tenderest o£ all Rhenish minstn ich ami i Thy cheerful I Thy rude ravines, thy verdant i . Thy golden hills with gar! Thy giant crags with I " 1 he Rhine ' < • u : • . that fair river's rival run? Where dawn 1 in >uch changeful . Like yon green, glancing, glork-us Khii.t •• Born h here I ih the infant rh 1 And ina! ■ We :• ; • buildings had table l autl •!. VV< I NORTHWARD BY THE RHINE. 51 other books, lives in a plain, modest dwelling in the newer part of the city. I had a special interest in seeing him, for I had long been translating his " Commentary on Romans," and breaking his sesquipedalian periods into many frag- ments. He lives within unpleasant hearing of the railroad whistle, but as he is a man of progressive nature, and knows how to push his way well through the great theological crowd of Germany, he does not despise proximity to the symbol of modern speed. He enjoys the good fortune to have a daughter who knows where every book in his libra- ry belongs, who is the only one permitted to touch the theologian's books and papers, and knows enough of her father's business, studies, and plans to aid him by her taste, industry, and reliable fidelity. We saw in the University the lecture-room where Lange reads. The desks and seats are ink-covered and mutilated to a degree worthy our most successful congressional whittler. Let any one who would form a correct idea of the contentment of the learned men of Germany, walk into this lecture-room and see for himself that the greatest commentator in Europe reads his lectures to an eager auditory from a diminutive desk no larger than the frail stand which supports a chorister's note-book, and sits meanwhile on a narrow, unpainted, three-legged stool, which is so uncomfortably gauged as to make its occupant neither sit nor stand, but do half of both. How Lange, or any man but an acrobat, can keep his equipoise on such a nondescript stool, and read from such an aspen-leaf desk, is more than I can easily imagine. But of his doing it, the well-used and antiquated appearance of both are ample proof. a* 52 1.1: l. IN THE FATHERLAND. N CHAPTER VII. AND 9ERVANT8. O strai I rmany f<>r length of time, and form even a ra int- ance with the citizens, without becoming in the contentment, frugality, and union usually the German doi The family of many a man doing a large busii id moving in s< ibility, often o but on< r n is furnished wit: I simpli sition to occupy the « Just enough room t, and 1 generally much smaller than Amei ire all thai d. A in- • with the thought of getting out of I into • of buj I tion, "D the morearisto on a fashionabl • he indulges in ,n iinin eithci h i MEALS AND SERVANTS. 53 quite above material pleasures — is to store his cellar with wines of the oldest vintages, and to surround himself with an abundance of servants. The breakfast is very simple — indeed, it is never called breakfast, but only coffee. Not an inch will the real Ger- man move from his house, or scarcely in it, until he has had his coffee, which is accompanied by a biscuit or two, without butter. The scholar will not open a book, or take up his pen, until he has had this light repast. At ten o'clock, a lunch of bread and cheese, or something of a similar character, is generally taken. The dinner, inva- riably introduced by soup, consists of substantial and nutritious dishes, and closes with bread and cheese. In the middle of the afternoon coffee is again taken, and a light tea, at about half past six, closes the meals of the day. In summer afternoons many families take their coffee in little arbors in the front garden. The garden may be very small, but, by dint of management, enough of its narrow dimensions are subsidized into space for a little table, surrounded by half a dozen seats, over which rises a vine-covered lattice. Where there is no spare ground, but the veranda reaches the street, even one end of the veranda itself is often divided into a little room, which is half screened from the street by some ingenious device, and supplied with chairs, table, and pictures. These pleasant little nooks are usually occupied a large part of the afternoon by the ladies, in pleasant summer weather, who there converse, sew, sip their coffee, and enter- tain their friends, and, in the evening, are joined by the gentlemen, on their return from their places of business. LIFE IX 77//; FATHERLA ne, in his "Ami Family in Genii the only author 1 k who does jusl rman servant led in . more rly perfect than one of any other nationality. There never w r illusion. Prom the time an Ameri lands on the Continent, the probability is thai lifn- culty in obtaining good servants will be found jusl : there as in An: We have never I domestics than during our German resjd* ! tainly heard as many lamenl r inferi that side of the Atlanl an equal The truth is, that a lai if the I lay by their sa-. r man) and nosooi gather up enough t<» pay their p than t': America. When they read) this country they imm< ately think of independence and matrimoi jewels that we brought home from the i nd with formed intimacies on shipboard with it men had n< nd the re.sult they lived with us but a month after reaching thi Th lit and sudden chang in Am i. an families are not known I :1 to enter ..r leave a p] employment is tin or t! r, but the hirii the and mai lies en six months. r, in a the) ■ thjc< put in prison li you (1 MEALS AND SERVANTS. 55 three months to get a new home, she can make you pay her full wages and board for that length of time. Thus, nothing is gained on either side by the premature sunder- ing of relations, and both parties are compelled, in self- defense, to exercise great forbearance. The wages of a servant doing general house-work in a small family average from three to six thalers a month. This has the appearance of being a small sum, but, if all the perquisites are taken into consideration, there is little dif- ference between the wages there and in New York. I will' mention a few of these perquisites, though it must not be understood that the category is by any means exhausted. Just as soon as you hire a girl for work in your family, you must give her a thaler to bind the bar- gain. Then, as soon as she enters your service, you must pay two thalers to the hospital, which is conducted very well, and whither she is to be taken, free of further charge, in case of sickness. If you are invited out to an enter- tainment, you are expected to leave a thaler in the hand of the domestic who was the first to welcome you at the door, and the last, after finding your hat and coat, to see you from it. When Christmas comes, you are further expected to give a sum ranging from five to twelve or fifteen thalers, accompanied with a present from each member of the family. When the Year Market arrives, any less present than a new dress is not considered respectable. Every time a new " olive-plant " takes its place in your domestic circle, you must give the aforementioned individual a new dress, and, no matter how many servants may be in your employ, each one must receive the same favor. If the servant is the 5 r J LIFE IN THE FA THERLAND. lucky individual to ir child's first tooth, nothing but a dress, or its equivalent, is regarded a worthy remunera- tion for the valuable dis< It" this present is with- held, the child to whom the tooth beloi least by one individual, never t<> prosper. In addition to these things, the servant in mei tees from certain tradesmen. If she the baker for bread every day. she S a percent lor her bringing it - it. When N r's Day comes, the accumulated bills for the who] the past year begin to rain in on you fol nt l! thin-' is bought after that day, and it is not paid for on the Spot, the German tradesman docs not ask for nor docs he seem to want it. until the fol! when tin- bill com< the middle of January, whei I the bills have been brought in.it is not I the ion having to pay them to take them hii them ; s ive your credit, ant. who arranges the whole matter, and bl you i . at the option of the t: in. A bill 5 to the -ill settling his bill at 1< so with the baker, and th It plain, from this arrangement, that tl . arc in. than I Hut. • intrusting the n bu( h hai ttlemenf MEALS AND SERVANTS. . S7 tions. If a servant leaves home without the consent of her employer, she only gets more inextricably involved in a net-work of trouble with every step she takes. She cannot even ride on the cars without a traveling-pass, and this would be impossible to obtain if her record was not perfectly clear where she had been employed. In consequence of the large number of perquisites which the German servants receive, the whole of the wages, and often some of the money received as presents, can be placed in the savings-bank. Many of the German servants never expect to lay out one cent of the money received as wages. The attention of a number of wealthy Germans has been directed to the wants of superannuated and infirm servants, and, in a number of German cities, there is a special fund for their relief. /./. ;.\7>. CHAPTER VIII. SH A Dl APR( '.MI MAT thing that an American in Germany, little insight into the life of the • I : ' . .. time, to the vei dren, than there. They make them with their j I ;lk with tl. i or journ< i will !.. In n I • her tumin He him, him \\i juvcnil -as OTHER SHADES OF GERMAN LIFE. 59 naturally promotes other inquiries and gives stimulus to the mind. One of the causes of the equality between the old and young lies in the fact that the child — at any rate the eldest boy — is expected to follow his father's business, and must early share his plans. The same house, the same employment, and I should not at all wonder if sometimes the same generations of customers, are identified with the same family and name, from century to century, in defiance of changes of governments. If Luther and Melanchthon should rise from the stone floor of the old Castle Church in Wittenberg, and take a shopping stroll together, it would not be unlikely that they could buy books, sta- tionery, clothing, and groceries, and get a large class of wants supplied, at about the same shops that they had patronized three hundred years ago. But there is a far deeper cause — the Germans love chil- dren, and the more they have the greater their joy. This was the case as long ago as the time of Tacitus, when they were in their barbarous period, and has been declared by historians and expressed in legislation at various in- tervals since then.* So soon as another child is added to the number, the father is expected to communicate by let- ter the fact to all his near and remote relatives and friends, and in due time he has every reason to expect congratu- latory letters from them'in return. The act is stated in * Numerum liberorum finire, aut quemquam exagnatis necare, flagitium habetur: plusque ibi boni mores valent, quam alibi bonse leges. — De Mori- bus GermanontHi, cap. xix. Compare the many safeguards provided for the young by the Salic law. Tit. xxviii. De Homicidiis Parvulorum. LIFE IN 11 IND. the papers, and then more '. The 1 rly smothered with hi( h is . iihin a ftcr birth. friends from far and near i brill irae kind, usualh im- tely put oul >und i' the ful benefit <-i the little recipient The 1. the nin- ain, and then (. con 'ii. ( )ne of the beautii v hour at which tl in th< tures begin at six, or tl . and tl annoum • ■ • inn Jnment, 1 ' ■ just before retiring, and '• \\ hat on earth must th tl . ■ i SHADES OF GERMAN LIFE. 6l without beer or wine. Bread is always supplied by the baker, usually twice a day. We did not eat a hot 'biscuit for five years, less because we did not want the article, than because no baker could, or would, supply it. Baking is a flourishing and lucrative business. Once I told an enterprising young baker that he ought to go to America, for he could make his fortune there. " Not I," he answered ; " the business is not respectable enough there ; for the bakers only make cake, and the people bake all their bread at home ! " But little confectionery is used in Germany ; children do not get accustomed to the taste. Fruit cake and pound cake are very seldom seen, and only on festive occasions does even light cake find its way to a German table. In Frankfort all our milk was supplied by little carts, with only a few cans, drawn by donkeys. In some towns it is drawn to customers' doors by dogs. Women gener- ally serve it out. The art of keeping a hotel and conducting a shop is carried to great perfection. A lady from Europe, who was once in New York, told me that it seemed to her, when shopping in our metropolis, that all the clerks were " angry with her." In Europe, and particularly in Ger- many, the customer is treated with the greatest suavity and attention. Every care is taken that your exact want be supplied, so that you come again, and keep coming. If you buy nothing, there is seldom the least change in the shopkeeper's demeanor. The person who has waited on you generally comes from behind the counter, attends you to the door, and closes it after you — and this whether G 2 LIFE IN 1H I: FATHERLAND. you buy <>r not All parcels must be - • home. li \..u buy a quire of paper, the shopkeeper will u ling it to your house. At least, such has been m\ It i-> not considered refined t< all. An umbrella or cane is the most that a gentleman is expected to burden himself with. I was a dull ur in forming to this custom, and often paid the pen carrying home a little package by having children look at me in wonder. Y->u ar< off your hat on entering a shop, and keep it off until leave You are treated with marked disapproval it enter a banking-house. <>r any police ernme: my kind, with undoffed 1. The shops are generally conducted by youi ien. I suppose that nine tenths, at least, of the shopkee] Frankfort are women, and that they do their w one can doubt wh< to buy. The mai the ladies. A in. in is never expected his wife But Americans will never learn tl taking up your residence in a German town i ted i'> ch \ • : • in. ike the first call alv. will get none But that lust i all is ver) only on a formal anil sin. iint- inust th all d< times painfull) puncl mornii 1 1 you mak< must m. ike youi i VOU must -how, b\ a pmmpt ' all. tii SHADES OF GERMAN LIFE. 63 and wish to continue the old relations. The forenoon — say about eleven or twelve o'clock — is the fashionable vis- iting time. New-Year visits are not so common there as in America. It is quite customary, instead of calling per- sonally, to send your card by a special messenger. This means congratulation, and every thing else that is implied in a personal visit. The clergy are a more secluded class in Germany than with us. They dare not, as a rule, touch political ques- tions, unless on the Government side ; for their positions are dependent on the consistories, in most instances, and the consistories are controlled by people in sympathy with the Government, or connected directly with it. The sala- ries are not so high as an American expects, but there are more perquisites. One of the oldest, most popular, and most learned pastors of Frankfort receives a salary equal to only five hundred and sixty dollars, American gold, besides fuel and gas. But he never performs a baptism, attends a funeral, or hardly any pastoral office, without a douceur. There are generally a senior and a junior pastor, who preach alternately, the junior being always expected to step into the senior's place in due time. When pastors become infirm they are "pensioned," and have no more care. Then, like Bushnell, they often go to writing books. The hour of service is nine or ten in the morning, and four or five in the evening. Our popu- lar evening service is not known. The churches close at such an hour that the attendants — sometimes the pastor as well — can go to the theater afterward. A clergyman's presence at a place of social^ entertainment is never con- LIFE IN THE FATHER!. .WD. sidered a requisite I have frequently • I the chasm between the German cl< nd laity, in tlieir entire social life, is very much r than in the United Stal I ..-rv theological candidate must have pre through the University in order to ne. When a clergyman once finds a pulpit, he can l<-nk upon his permanent home, if he be at all ji American thirst f<>r novelty and ch the slightest pretext, has never yet M Literary merit is consider) idvanta didate. When a German writes a book, all ire him. Pulpit e tor must be the only one to look his people in the I 1 1,- always preaches without n ever, betra lerally a »i. n. No r must he apathy with I A leaning toward I distinct 01 man pastor his position, his 1 hand extend* The "law's delu\ rihlc and painful tter n. ouble the sum al it and the pri'. \ 1 without a • the SHADES OF GERMAN LIFE. 65 procure twenty-three different certificates before they could be pronounced "man and wife!" The most of these, of course, had to be paid for. I was fined once for not registering the entrance of a servant-girl into my household within a few specified days after the occurrence, and that when I was from home. I was told that impris- onment, or appeal and a regular lawsuit, would be the only relief. If you find an article — say a watch-key — in the street, you are expected to take it to the police-bureau, and that watch-key is regularly advertised. If no owner claims it, it is returned to you within just two weeks, or if you are so charitable, it is sold for the benefit of the city poor. On going to any public office, you have sometimes to wait hours for admission. I have learned never to go without a book or two in my pocket. Mr. Greeley could have gotten through all the newspapers in the pockets of his three coats during the process. When once you are in, you are treated very politely, as a general rule, and as leisurely as if the very sun was standing still, and nobody waiting to follow you. To an American, all this is very tantalizing ; but the Germans — the storm spare their pa- tient souls ! — never seem to be worried, or to imagine that they are losing in this way big slices out of their life-time. 66 LIFE IN THE I Mill.. CHAPTER IX. THl Till taking l " l l understood in German) toa remarkable sooi bruary furnish an hour <'i- t sunshine and spring-like air, than plain i m wh.» hopes to reali a little patch of ground, 1 in pi \ it for fruitfulness. Indeed, one is reminded, all through the winter, of the garden work <>f the coming sprii thing that pos the sli amounl nutriment i I with the the- ground during the- int< throughout all thi month tion <1" m i" b I, when . whetht But the art with the kind of plants lust suited to tl: the son, that a subsequent injuriously an. that those pro t.. plant. In I than the Cold •' THE GERMANS AND THEIR GARDENS. 67 conclude that every plant is killed. I thought so, for the appearance forbade a different conclusion. But two or three weeks of real spring weather showed that the gar- deners knew just what they were about, and that their plants seemed to be really more vigorous in consequence of their frosty discipline. There is no disposition in Germany to deny any body the privilege of working in the garden who has the power. Just opposite my study-window in Bremen there were sev- eral lots which were owned by different persons, but were cultivated by women as well as men. Generally, the sexes work together; but so far as appearances go, the women know as well how to use the spade and hoe as the men. Indeed, there is no doubt that they are quicker in their movements, and really accomplish more in the field in a day. There is a general disposition on the part of the poor to have a piece of ground, no matter how small, how angular, or how poor it is. Depend upon it, it will soon be dug over, two spade-depths down ; it will be filled with fertilizers ; and its surface will be as smooth and clodless as if raked by the softest fairy hands that Hans Andersen has ever told us about. The gardens are planted with mathematical exactness. You may glance at the largest of them, but not a plant will be found out of place. The divisions between gardens under different proprietors are often only imaginary lines, there being two important objections to fences between them ; first, they cost too much ; and second, they occupy altogether too much valu- able ground. Where a fence would be, the real German gardener can raise a large quantity of vegetables. This LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. cconom. Slirprisi . ,nds in ,trast with the wastefulni land ever, met with in Ameri The care best with even more skill and taste, in the cultival The Germans love flowers. According to th< phers, there never was a time when they did : Tl would submit to any ordinary deni r than be with- out them. 1 believe if Herri: tenrath Blumenliebc were required to pay a tax on every flower that hai. h fuchsia, or hyacinth, «.r n ilk that in the windows of his house, he would submit to the | demand without a murmur, sooner than a 1 the blifi ful ownership. Thi of flowi : l,, the ,, to the wealthy I The wealthy ha their conservatories, N ,n " 1 complete without one. And itisnol tr, where nobody can see it, but at tl: fie of the the m would he lik ■ '-he flowers in ; beautiful, some of them in the thers having rich ornamented with beautiful ■ tly and beautiful : burnt h the lutiful v hum iuch flc THE GERMANS AND THEIR GARDENS. 69 The family that is crowded into a single story of a small house is sure to have each window, however small, occu- pied by flowers. Then every little projection — a rebel- lious brick, or a dissatisfied piece of timber, or a shelf nailed to the original window-sill — is burdened with flowers. They are healthy plants, too, for they seem to be always in blossom, and the leaves are of the freshest ver- dure. I call to mind at this time the flowers in the win- dows of a dilapidated house near our Bremen cottage. This house was probably not less than a century and a half old, and was occupied by a very poor family. I never knew the children to be clean or neatly clad ; but the flowers that bloomed in luxuriant beauty in those old-fash- ioned windows were worthy of the best mansions on Fifth Avenue. Nor is this any exception. In the narrowest streets and obscurest lanes of the city, in town as well as in country, there is a love of flowers, and a skill in train- ing them into thrift and beauty, confined to no class or condition, and exhibited alike by small children and very aged persons. There is no time in the year when flowers are not sala- ble. The flower-stores are judiciously located on street- corners. But a flower-store in Germany is a very .differ- ent thing from those in John-street, or the flower-stalls in Washington Market. There is something else to be seen in them besides monotonous drawers, with labels, of all the plants in botany, or parcels of seeds, or clusters of dried bulbs, or packages of shrubs ready for planting. First of all, there are the living plants, arranged with exquisite taste on terraced stands at each of the large windows, and bloom- ;o LIFE IX THE FATHERLANl ing in tropical splendor and beauty. These windows are mplete .study. Any body w!. and look at them by the hour; and he m. ire that when he returns a day or two later, while he will proh find some new plant added and some fading flower with- drawn, he will observe no diminution in the ene. Tin mere vernal institutions, but ar< rmanent as the bank the Rothschilds, titinuing from Januar again. Yet at the blishmc ^ihle varii lso be obtained. I 'her >r ornamenting a street wind. d, will be asked for in vain. But then tin other flower-stor in humbler kind. There are little I under the shadow of the <>1«1 cathedrals, and women. The lowly saleswomen ma and thi their little ket: J embers and during the very coldest weather of the winter. have ltii'ul bouquets of dried fl which I : fresh ones— thus h iking care of i! from i 'hey have fresh on. m. In cold \\ cr these cannot h . but it women for one, she will tak. mi. timeth 1 without takin l THE GERMANS AND THEIR GARDENS. 71 In addition to the private care and culture of flowers, the municipal authorities bestow all pains upon them in the public parks and gardens. This is not merely the case in one, but in all the German cities. The Wall in Bremen and the Anlage in Frankfort are parks, which ex- tend from one end of the city to the other. They are the peaceful and beautified remains of the old ramparts, and are now the great promenades of the inhabitants. The walks are well laid out, flowers and trees being distributed in such a way as to present a constant change of scene. Some of the flower-plots are very large, and are cultivated with the strictest care. On the Bremen Wall there were, even in spring, long and winding borders, and flower-beds of blooming hyacinths and crocuses, which reminded one rather of Italy than of the fifty-fourth degree of north lat- itude. Then the beds of roses and the endless variety of other flowers daily underwent the treatment of those pains- taking and matchless gardeners. And if they succeeded thus early in the season in bringing their horticultural charges to such a high state of beauty, what must have been their success in the later spring, and in all the sum- mer months ? On all festal occasions there is exhibited a fondness for floral adornments which is equaled nowhere else, with the single exception of Holland, the paradise of tulips, dah- lias, and other bulbs. But there is not the lavish expense in providing rare flowers that is now becoming common in this country. In Germany those used at festivities are such as the season produces, and are supplied at moderate cost' At funerals all friends and acquaintances bring LIFE IN THE FATHL rs in many . hile the pi the ■ • ■ taini the interment has taken \ I ever forgotl for, not only b) I the many to the cemetery, but by the family to whom it i terest Ofl itiful and t. A . il to the inclosurc, and i at frequent itefully flowers, which, when autumn their evergreen fir ubor-vii ar with tt i < That the influ in a ii. Idren 1 <-f them ; I of their ] thai whil< II. SCHOOLS-GREAT AND SMALL. The t ti In « . .lli.l liupol ren higher by Uiolr means. Nil .:. LEGISLATION ON SCHOOLS— STATISTICS. 7$ CHAPTER I. LEGISLATION ON SCHOOLS. COMPARATIVE STATISTICS. r I ^HE increasing attention bestowed lately on the •*- schools by European legislators is a gratifying evi- dence of progress in meeting a great popular want. It was one of the very first questions to which the En- glish Parliament, on the accession of the Gladstone min- istry, addressed itself, and there are few Englishmen or Americans who read the reports of the long discussion in that body, and especially the elaborate speeches of Messrs. Melley and Goschen, who were not astonished at the sta- tistical revelations of popular ignorance in Great Britain. Mr. Bright, in his address at Birmingham, in 1869, after saying, with his usual candor, that the education of the masses is " infinitely below that of Prussia, and, I think, also of Switzerland, and infinitely below that of the cor- responding class — if there be a corresponding class — in the Northern States of the American Union," recalled the memorable words of his lamented friend, Cobden, that the Prussians "were the Yankees of Europe, and from their education would be the most powerful nation in Europe, because they had followed to a very large extent, although not exactly in the same way, the sys- tem of the United States, of endeavoring to give a sound education to their whole people." In no country has there been a greater increase of 4* I.I 11. IN I. AND. lative zeal in the of public education than in I In th declared, at th of the Corps 1 tif, that, within nine months, thanks to the thir- teen thousand new coura I idy had been I for adults. A map, projected by M. Durny, re; ts all the Departments in light Or dark which the state of education may be determined. I irtments show a percent, without any education ; twelve. ; and twenty-six, i The I trict is ne, and, indo In the Department of.Doules, public instruction general than anywhere else in the country. A been made to establish evening-scl thirty thousand teachers have already taken up th ure, and such schools have been established ill parishes. In the .' parish libraries b 1 established in many ilist: and of them embrace many thou The ig the impl) amazing, and ;!. him there which will the utt tional /e.il. In I: a ] ii of twcnl n mill: ul nor 1— the llation of that date. In .t .\G ■ wha while in I LEGISLATION ON SCHOOLS— STATISTICS. 77 lation are without instruction. Only in a few districts — for example, in Turin — is there any special zeal for primary school education. In that city, the school-children con- stitute one eighth of the population. • In Spain, which has a population of seventeen millions, nearly twelve millions are unable either to read or write. A late official report says : " It is very easy to see how public education is conducted, when we are informed that, out of 72,157 municipal councilors, 12,479 can neither read nor write ; besides these, 422 burgomasters, 938 ad- juncts, and 11,119 nagadores of the municipalities, can neither read nor write." Popular education was one of the gravest, but one of the first, problems which the new Provisional Government, after the dethronement of Isa- bella, was called upon to solve. Portugal seems, however, in some respects, to be quite in advance of her Spanish neighbor. Elementary education is gratis and obligatory. Parents and guardians are re- quired to send their children to school, under a penalty of from fifty cents to one dollar. If children reach their eighteenth year without being able to read or write, their parents or guardians lose all political rights for the space of five years. Instruction is secular, the priests not being allowed to interfere with it in any way whatever. In every school, the exercises open every day with prayer from a prayer-book ; besides, every teacher must take his children every Sunday to' mass, and see that they are all provided with the Church prayer-books. He teaches them the fundamental articles of the Christian (Catholic) faith, and prepares them for their first communion. He LH E IN THE 1 Mil. with them, from an r the A\ the principal pa with 1 ie provision made den ami N opula* instruction is highly credital eramej stantly devisinj : :t of the i den and N n that I in the ish thai 0.80 th ula " tion ; of which th 1 tne par: 1,717. The thai eminent e>timat< public instruction for 1 r the I •> >" I .vhi. h ■ ly like tin- I to I, .thaleis. ami I thalcrs. 1 the education l to .1 thalei i. 1 hi ■ ■ thai 1 • . 1 ' : LEGISLA TION ON SCHOOLS— STA TISTICS. 79 National Library, besides 55,000 thalers toward the foun- dation of a new edifice, whose completion is to cost 480,238 thalers, the sum of 27,850 thalers ; for the two Universities, 466,551 thalers; the Government archives, 20,040; the National Museum, 25,550; the Caroline Institute, 75,051. The academies receive as follows: Swedish, 12,000; Scientific, 14,710; the Fine Arts, His- tory, and Antiquities, 16,450; the Liberal Arts, 53,600; Music, 30,300 ; and the National History Museum, 43,950. It may be affirmed with safety that all the great move- ments toward popular instruction in these Continental countries have taken their rise from Germany. The geo- graphical position of the territory has been as important a factor in this respect as, in the sixteenth century, in the diffusion of Protestant sentiments. The German school is the growth of centuries of repeated experiment, patient labor, and careful observation. Pedagogy, long before Pestalozzi's day, was elevated to one of the most respect- able and elaborate sciences, and, as applied in Germany, is nearer perfection than anywhere else in the world. There, more than in any other country, fitness is the condition of the teacher's holding his place ; and in no other land is the relation between teacher and pupil so beautified and sweetened by such a large element of real sympathy and friendship. The teacher does not consider it beneath his dignity to place himself on a level with his scholar, to ascertain his tastes and cultivate them, to ferret out his plans and criticise them as a friend, and not to stand aloof from him in his sorrows. A boy or girl, therefore, placed in a German school of average respectability, is LIFE IN THE FA I'll. ■ friends and I . tiality il Rut no fied with 1. the members «>l tl the Gen P rliament, arc continu In the 1 . ind in l a half | it of the children tton ; in the provii than this ; while in W In the i I 1 sia, where the lanj difficult the | ea It hiltlren uiuihl :). Th ■ ion. The General Convenl hundred of whom w I LEGISLA TION ON SCHOOLS— STA TISTICS. 8 1 a discount. There is, likewise, an effort now making throughout Germany to contract the bounds of religious instruction as closely as possible. At present, only two or three hours are devoted weekly to the subject. The biblical history of the Old Testament is almost totally neglected. In the Kingdom of Saxony, a controversy has broken out on the use of the Bible in the public schools. A Chemnitz teacher, by the name of Stahlknecht, has asserted in a work that a selection from the Bible, a so-called " School Bible," is an unavoidable necessity for Christian training, as many objectionable passages in the Old Testament can only exert a corrupting influence on the children! In 1853 a number of clergymen and teachers, among whom was the highly respected Hauss- child, petitioned the Ministry for the introduction of a selection from the Bible ; and in 1862 the Legislative and State Council at Chemnitz declared for the same. The Pedagogical Union has approved of this petition, and a number of clergymen and teachers have been called into Council to discuss the question, whether one of the existing selections or a new one can be best employed. Whatever these agree upon will be introduced into all the schools. In several of the German countries this question has elicited considerable discussion, and a number of selections of biblical history have been employed, the most of them having the old rationalistic sense. LIFE IN i ATHERLAND. I (II. Ml ER II l 11 I KIND] 'III-; Kindei gartei . an institution I a necessity by th< i mentary and the youn The firsl than forty ) sprung up in •. now Kii - in all the in Gi t Brit and tin- I ■ the sul ■ hers ti. the medium - som the I that ti nan. in tl and in*: I i. THE KINDERGARTEN. $$ revolution in Germany and Switzerland effected by Campe, Pestalozzi, Salzmann, and Rousseau. The founder — Fred- eric Froebel — took Pestalozzi as his model, and was even a teacher in Pestalozzi's institution at Yverdun, from 1808 to 1810. He was born on April 21, 1782. In 1799 he went to Jena University as a student, but, after a short experience in study and nine weeks in prison, he became a farmer. His father died in 1802, when the son became a forest-keeper in the neighborhood of Bamberg. In 1805 he went to Frankfort, in hope of becoming an architect, but neither this nor any other occupation seemed to suit him. He studied in Gottingen in 181 1, and in 1812 went to Berlin University. He then directed his attention to education, and particularly to the education of young chil- dren, and issued publications at frequent intervals in favor of his new views. He commenced his Universal German Educational Institute in Griesheim, which he followed by others in various places. His principle or formula of edu- cation was this : " Do this, and see what results, in this particular respect, from your action, and to what knowl- edge it will lead you." He would unite thinking and doing, perceiving and acting, knowledge and ability, in the most intimate relations. His great themes of instruction were, religion, physical exercise, contemplation and com- prehension of the outward world, and language. Religion — the Christian religion — is the foundation of all knowl- edge, as well as of all the relations from which all our knowledge receives its life and importance, and to which all our knowledge and capacity, and their fruits, return. We find, however, not only the principles of our Christian 84 LIFE IN THE FATHl ': ealed in tl in the individual man, in thai inkind and in the whole sphere of nature. li founded his religious instruction, formally, on the tl. revelation , in and by the II the life of individual man, and the whole Langu unting, drawing, and singing w< jht by him in a peculiar way, so t imparted without the pupil feeling the burden of it. He • ■ ich his pupils piano-musi them exercise on some other object, and, after the I ime skillful, he took them to tl. pupils begin Latin by readii and commenced his instruction in matical rules, hut by making the k the at the very out I llected published in three volumes, in Berlin, in t popular work, and the one which influence in propagating his sentiuu Kii: i many, i Children"— A! Blankenburj mnot be pi ,.! a Km.: A than liptioi. which the principal one in Bremen is • whii h I \nd in . Many of the i bildren ■■ mall that ■ ■ I little | ■ m ol THE KIND ERG A R TEN. 8 5 taken, however, that each child aid in adjusting his own things, and having a fixed place for all. The proprietress — Miss Grabau — was assisted by two other ladies. The school was divided into two classes, either one or the other of which was nearly always in the large hall for exercise, or working in the little gardens out of doors. In the school- room, each scholar was provided with a very neat and comfortable desk and chair, and was taught to regard them as his own property. The employments were worsted-work, knitting, elementary drawing, and every other imaginable thing which is supposed to furnish such young fingers and minds with combined skill and amuse- ment. The children had patterns before them for every thing they were to do, and the teacher personally super- intended them in each little labor, when every pains was taken to impart as much elementary instruction as possi- ble. For example, if a little girl was at work on a book- mark or a lamp-mat, she was taught imitation, combina- tion, perspective, counting, and the alphabet. As soon as a child was tired of one employment, the mind was imme- diately diverted by the teacher to another, to prevent weariness. The room for exercise was very large, and, like the school-room, neatly ornamented with pictures ; and when the children were in it they were under the care of a teacher, who had them go through many gymnastic exer- cises. This was the most interesting feature of the Kin- dergarten. The children, boys and girls promiscuously, were directed to assume a certain position. It might be that of a regiment drawn up in a line of battle. The 86 1.1 IE IX THE FATHERLANl teacher then commem ed ;i then gj, when all after which the battle commenced in right After th won, tl her nai • »ry in verse, which the children had 1>- iously taught, and which they repeated with hei through with all the gymri I by the For instan< e, she told of a urea- out of which the pigeons came, one by 5 me flew slowly, and some more rapidly : others went off and ho] around <>n the ground, while others lighted on the some got tired, and others fell down ; and thi 1 movemei i whole Sented l>v the children. ..ml. the teach- n to tell in prose about an old blacksmith, and by and b) bed the verses descriptivi anvil.! iron, and great hammer, when the children and the wh..K- room wa^ transformed, for a time, iii -nit smithy, and all the little industrious hingly playing blacksmith. Anothi a walk over a heath, wh I heard I into the pond. During this time the enti: a i similar croakei A ins thus, during tl which the chil- dren go thi 11 the i mmon I THE KINDERGARTEN. 87 In all these iraitatory exercises the children preserved strict order, but their risible propensities were not at all restrained. Just as soon as the slightest fatigue or de- crease in interest was observed the exercises were changed, when the class was immediately taken into another room, or else into the garden. About one half the time seemed to be devoted to the gymnastic and horticultural employ- ments, and the other half to the light manual labor at the desks in the school-room proper. There are a great many of these half-poetical and half- prose stories, having somewhat of a theatrical character, taught and performed in the Kindergarten. I have at hand a volume which contains fifty in all, profusely illus- trated. Some of the titles are : " The Mouse and the Cat," "The Ants," "The Stork and the Frog," "The Butterfly," "The Grasshopper and the Worm," and " The Horse-chestnut Tree." Each of these stories requires, perhaps, from ten to fifteen minutes to repeat and perform. The exercises and employments at the Kindergarten are sure to be brought away by the children, and enter largely into their home-life. The two little folks that went out of our doorway every morning to Miss Grabau's school, had not been in attendance more than a few weeks before they were hopping about the premises like frogs, leaping like deer, springing like cats, and, as nearly as they could, flying like swallows, barking like dogs, swim- ming like fish, swinging like tree-tops, sailing like boats, and chattering like magpies. It is difficult to decide whether the Kindergarten is very LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND, superior to the usu hildren. It likely that it is all that . m admii imagine it I ind it is equally : that man] the principles which arc applied in it, with and only by illustration, might be em] advan- ly in connection with attractive and appropi books. A < ertain amount of the Kindergarten inti into our ordinary elementary school would certain! improvement. Too much cannot be said for the | influence of the gymnastic < which, indeed, con- stitute the most beneficial feature of the institution. It is to be tted that, despite i on religion, there is but little <. inity taken in the purely German Kindergarten — tl its 1. aiicn Pestalozzian origin, and I ciation of it to a level with outward nature, and t: lation natural to the human mind. ill the ht the children, there that n. en taught them, so fa: >n< erned, in the palm) in the time of the which Schille: to have ba< k again to the world. THE FRANKFORT SCHOOLS. 89 CHAPTER III. THE FRANKFORT SCHOOLS. '"l^HE schools in Germany, to which any foreign pupil ■*- has access, are very varied in scope and facilities. Those of Frankfort have the name of being the best in the country ; but it is not likely that there is any further foundation for the celebrity than their being simply so frequented by English and Americans as to have become specially adapted to the practical Anglo-Saxon tastes, and more widely known across the Channel and the Atlantic than are the other schools. In Frankfort the two classes of male schools to choose between are, the public schools, supported by the State, and the private or select schools. In the former the teachers are just as competent as in the latter, and the annual tuition is not over seventy gulden, or thereabout. The buildings are commodious, but gen- erally of very defective ventilation, and have a gymnasium and play-ground. Here, too, the American boy has the best opportunity to learn German ; for nearly all his asso- ciates are Germans. But, then, he cannot receive as much attention from his instructors as he would like, and must frequently employ private aid, because in most of these schools there are too many students for the number of teach- ers. Care should be taken, in placing young Americans in German schools, to avoid those where other Americans or English are studying. Neither German nor French can cjo I.I 111 IX THE FATHERLAND. learned to . is the plan of studies in one of the i Frankfort-on-the-Main : — ^1 l Ml S AM> HOI ["HE Ml I'll \| t I 1 1/, .\ It VII. VI. V. IV. III. II. I. Rcli ■ . 3 3 3 - - uction by Intuition \ ii ..m 4 4 4 4 1 I . . 4 4 . 3 1 . -' 2 tl H isloij . j 3 hmetic and 4 4 4 Penmanship 4 4 • ing -• - - 1 1 ing - 1 I ! :■■ In this elementary sch<>.-l tl the number of scholars is three hundred ami t> ine, ami the pupils range from eight l America i-^ certainly not the only land, it where tin- teacher is overworked All tl. '1. the 1" American who simpl) and tin- ordinary ! lucation at hoi the m American college, he si lition I THE FRANKFORT SCHOOLS 91 private instruction on any subject that he may wish. The select, or boarding, schools have every facility for real progress and success — able teachers and plenty of them, chemical apparatus, charts, and what not. The student can board in the institution, or, if he prefer, elsewhere, and attend as a day scholar. The price of board and tui- tion in one such school, near Hanover, whose catalogue I have before me, is, for boys of eight to twelve years, $250 (gold) ; of twelve to fifteen, $300 ; of fifteen to eighteen, $450. There is a reduction of these prices where broth- ers enter together ; but these terms are rather above than below the average. Here the scholars are trained with a view to their proposed vocation, without undergoing what might be called waste studies. In Frankfort there are about ten schools for boys and twenty for girls. In Heidelberg, Stuttgart, Brunswick, and all of the more western German towns and cities, there are excellent schools, I do not mention the names of any of them, for it would be doing injustice to many, equally good, that would be omitted. The schools which advertise the most in England and America do not enjoy the best reputation at home. The finest schools, as a rule, have as many pupils as are desired, without adver- tising. The number of students in a German select school averages, .say, about forty. Some Americans and English, to secure religious over- sight for their children, place them under the care of pastors, in whose families they live, and by whom they are instructed. In some respects this is a good plan, but it has the disadvantages resulting from being educated in UFE IN Th IX IK a very nam 1!(,t always whal body would call iritual A young American, who idying in Frankfort, told me one day that a pastor of his had lately requested him to take the twelve o'clock Sunday ti in order to attend the theater that afternoon in Darm- stadt, where a piece of unusual performed. "But yon preach at eleven o'clock, and you catch the train ?" was the answer. "O! that don't make any diff< I «P my closing prayer, throw off mj in the go directly from church to the d rid thus timi • tch the train !" The American, who, by the way, had had faithful p I Sundi ' borne, in declined the invitation, the importunities of t! loving pastor t«» the contrary notwithstandii | | mans do not like male and female S ether. They pro-, ellent i opposing them, and you seldom hear of 01 I There are. nevertheh- I BCmil where religious instruction is not ntion is paid I ■' • the countrii • ,,um N the usual opposition of the I then whi with th ment THE FRANKFORT SCHOOLS. 93 terms in this institution are, in round figures, $200 (gold), for board and tuition. If parents do not wish their children to pay special attention to the modern languages, they will do as well to keep them in schools at home, where instruction in practical branches and in the elements of the classics is unsurpassed. If they wish their children to go abroad for a length of time — and less than a couple of years is not advisable — they should take special pains to see that they are placed in a boarding school where the proprietor and instructors are of evangelical sentiments, and have at least some respect for the American Sunday, and, the children being placed under them, that their time be occupied in such studies as will be of the most use to them on their return to America. As a rule, education abroad should be deferred until a broad foundation is laid at home. The cases are rare where young ladies should be sent abroad for instruction. Where parents have sons and daughters whom they desire to be educated in Germany or France, their best course is to go abroad themselves, and take their children with them. In Dresden, Berlin, Hanover, Frankfort, and other cities, there are many American families living, the direct object of whose go- ing abroad was that the children might attend German schools. The more one thinks of this plan, the more reason he will find to admire it. Living is as cheap there as in America, but not much cheaper. However, to a wise parent an undivided family circle abroad is much more desirable than unintermitted business enterprises at home. UFE IN THE FATHEl CHAF1 ER IV. ONE of the most important quesl d with the wh<»lc recent reformatory movement in Austi going ■ lily onward c-vcr sir, is that of the sc ho 1 the abrogation of the rdat has the mean- of restoring to the I instruction not enjoyed by them s the There was a time in Austria when in a very flourishing state. As soon as the R< mation broke into the Catholic darkness and p the country, the Bible immediat< pular b and s at once improved in the cities and vill wherever the Reformation had the slightest influenc nobility, who were at firs! i ible to th< which mmenced by Huss and continued by Lutl t0 Germany, and especiall) to Wittenl and the more strength the Rel .rmation gained in them..' th ° a where the people showed a lanism, the schools either went rominent i im ' rrainate, tl and • i PRO TEST ANT SCHOOLS IN A U STRIA. 95 pressed more and more, and those who refused to renounce their faith were required by cruel religious edicts to leave the country, as in the case of the Evangelical Salzburgers. The political history of Austria during the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries reflects very clearly the history of the schools. Austria was a thoroughly Catholic em- pire, and the last vestige of Protestant liberty therein was destroyed in 1629, under the government of Ferdinand II. ; and though a little leniency was shown under his successor, no openly professing Protestants were to be found any longer in Austria, and those who were Prot- estants at heart instructed their children privately in the Bible, and in the old devotional books and sermons left them by their forefathers. In order to prevent the people from ever yielding to Protestant heresy again, the instruc- tion of all the children in the land was placed in the hands of the Catholic clergy ; Catholic priests were placed over small circles or districts, and had charge over all the books, and oversight over all the teachers. The Emperor Joseph II. designed to pursue a better course, but his failure was partly owing to his being in advance of the public senti- ment of his country, and in part to the shortness of his reign. However, the first important step within the' cen- tury was taken by this ruler, who issued the Patent of Toleration, on the 13 th of October, 1781. This served as the official invitation to the Protestants to show their colors. They immediately began to form congregations, called their pastors in part from Hungary and in part from Germany, and immediately established schools on a good foundation. Of course, they were compelled 96 LIFE FN THE FATHERLAND. their - in e> e naturally very much i them. In a short time the very flourishing, and had the name of being the best in the empire. They were distinguished not so much : ition, for tl matter the greater skill in teaching, the fre< the minds of the children, and, above all, for t: tural t: nt' the instruction. Hut after this time new shack! in the Austrian 1': ind it 1: the recent reform comment humiliation in the wa: hat the 1' assured a freedom of instruction which had en so fully enjoyed since the days of tl, A Prol stan! normal school | i in Biel and if we may I • un- der oppi • .i mark for the i\\\ will he very rapid, and its influence will be felt in trian Protestantism Th and plan I ' . ' that the seventeen hundred florins still unj Should he paid out of the • the Opening of the seminary might I with a dil the l Vdolphus Unioi I be men! 1 : PRO PES P. I N T SCHOOL S IN A US PR I A . 97 their future operations. The former school-building is an ornament to the new part of the city of Vienna, and its arrangements for instruction are hardly surpassed in Ger- many. The board of managers consists of four Lutheran and two Reformed persons, and, besides the director and three catechists, there are twenty-two male and female teachers. The present director is Dr. R. A. Jacobi. There are over one thousand scholars in attendance. The charges for attendance are very moderate ; a scholar pay- ing, on entering the primary department, five florins ; (the Austrian florin is equal to about fifty cents in gold) ; on entering any further class, two florins ; and the sub- sequent yearly payment ranging from seven to fifteen florins. The school at Gratz consists of four classes, which are taught by a director and three teachers. The first general session of the Austrian Teachers' Association took place in Vienna, on the 5th of Septem- ber, 1867, and lasted two days. There were in attendance one thousand six hundred and twenty-seven teachers, and the prevailing spirit of the meeting was, that perfect relig- ious liberty is a necessity for the proper instruction of children. As a matter of course, the greater portion of the teachers were Catholics ; but there was no disposition to abridge the liberty of speech of their Protestant asso- ciates, and Catholics as well as Protestants united in claim- ing the absolute separation of the clergy from all interfer- ence with the instruction imparted in the Austrian schools. This teachers' meeting, the first of the kind in Austria, and attended by so great a number of members, had an influence in moving the Government and the Emperor LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. to adopt the reformatory measures which i. ulminal The ultra . the luncil, in adopting th< fallibility, has alienated all the libel itiment from the Church party, and it affilial lially with he Proti ts in fin I e mea be- half ot perfect confessional ami educational lil American Consul in Vienna told me that Austria was the • t country in Europe; and, ..I neither nor heard any thing in conflict with his opinion. The General German l \ :i held ;..n in [870, in Vienna, where the course was taken for completely break the tratlition.il conservatism of Austrian education, and ; ■ ion of educational facilitii 5. 1 he of such a character ittract the attentio Europe, I . that the inst the Ion- bondage wen I vident in a to (ist ,,11 all authority, the Bible : d. The tendency in Austria now ■ pu- lucation throughout the emj . in the direction of the study of natural i held a long sway, but on nature a prcdomina the An the disti •i-n hoi ind ph) om the former Tl M. \\ PRO TESTANT SCHOOLS IN A U STRIA. 99 written a little work in defense of the proposed reform, and states his case very pointedly. He claims, that ac- cording to the present arrangement for natural science, only doctors and apothecaries seem to be kept in sight, and that the great mass of students are constantly drilled in the languages, to the utter neglect of physical studies. He urges, as a principal relief from the evil, that the number of professorships in the various gymnasia be so increased as to throw the whole field of nature open to every student ; and, further, that there should be more uni- versities. His second position, however, is by no means defensible ; for, if the history of the German universities proves any thing, it proves this : that it is not the great number of universities, but the magnitude of the facilities of the few, that develops both teacher and student, and elevates popular instruction. What a different aspect would be presented in Germany to-day, if the wealth and intellect concentrated in the Berlin University were scat- tered into half a dozen puny ones in different parts of the country ! Dr. Fischhof, in his " Oesterreich und die Biirgschaften ihres Bestandes," throws a stronger light on the present state of education in Austria than any other writer with whom I have met. His attempt, throughout his excellent work, is to compare his country, Austria, with other lead- ing nations, and to show wherein she stands in need of im- provement. The low stage of education seems to be the subject which he has made a special study. In Switzer- land, he says, the fifth part of all the government expend- iture is appropriated to education and worship ; twenty 5* ioo LIFE IN THE FATHl L of th< applied to improving the edu sentime pulatioa In a the i trary, only ■ I a quarter meat mditure is appropriated to tion. Still, it must be that all t Europe stand, in thi France applies only four and a hal instruction, while Switzerlan in the youth 11. It tria should make, pi Switzerland ■ H "00,000 gulden, while sh( ;0O,O0O. Swil :, which has a populati ,000, has 7.OOO 1 g) mi diversities in tl the I with hi \ inhal l aid. sh< d indu id 1.} ; 1 uni. I 1 ! I I I PRO TEST ANT SCHOOLS IN A U STRIA. I O I I Agricultural Academy, 82 Theological Schools, 16 Ob- stetrical Schools, 28 Agricultural Schools, 7 Nautical Schools, 5 Mining Schools, 3 Military Academies, 8 Spe- cial Military Schools, 8 School Companies, 9 Military Training Schools, and 4 Cadet Institutes. This author proceeds to show that it is not a mere acci- dent that Switzerland pays the great attention that she does to the subject of education. The main root of the matter is the free spirit of the people. He then attempts to prove this further by the state of education in the Unit- ed States of America, and pays a very high compliment to our system of popular instruction. He gives the most elaborate and reliable statistics of education in our coun- try, and shows by these that education in America is far in- advance of that in any other country in the world. He calls attention to the fact, too, that not only do the chil- dren in the common schools receive their education free, but that even their text-books and writing materials are supplied gratuitously. In reference to schools of a higher grade, and the Uni- versities, Dr. Fischhof claims that Austria remains far in the background, and must make immediate and rapid ad- vances if she would stand on a respectable footing with other important nations. He says, that while the Govern- ment should give all the aid it can to those higher institu- tions of learning, the people should take the matter in hand themselves, and show that they can go along inde- pendently of the Government. He again adduces the United States in support of his position, and defends the voluntary promotion of education by the people in a way 102 LIFE IN THE FATHERLA ily gratifying and complimentary. I le the tin; int when Aim the lead of the European nations in the splendor of her edu- cational achievements. In order that Austria pron the cause of university education, the power of tl ernment over the universities must he diminished, and civ to the man i the universiti 1 mony of history, the growth of the Italian universities, centuries ago, : ttrihutahle to this cause ; and the achievements of the Unix trecht and Leyden, in I lolland, were the dil of the free footing which the} id And the tu Universities irmany prove beyond a doubt that their perity and constant success have been the direct out- growth of tl terorless independence which th enjoyed In Gfeat Britain, rich ami lil the two I ities, l '\: rd ai I I laml i still measurably beneath the yoke of tin- I stal lished l i. I : only university in Engl Uld abreast of the - the times is the London University, which was founded in 1828 b) impany. Our author here falls int r, in omitting just as important ;i one, the M tei 1 ersity, newly end ind now clothed with university functions. Dr. Fischhof, in continuing his comp I that I nteen hut one un tmely, I Tl - ii stitu- don has all the com].' m uni\ I l.in institutioi ftf most th: 1 ind has PROTESTANT SCHOOLS IN AUSTRIA. 103 one university for every 400,000 inhabitants, while in Germany there is one for every 2,000,000, and in Austria only one for every 5,000,000. Dr. Fischhof attributes a large measure of the great achievements and prosperity of higher education in the United States to the fact that instruction is not a subject of legislation by the General Government at all, but that it is left to the individual States ; and he does not pass over Washington's earnest wish that there might be one model university. LIFE IN TH1 < HAPTER V. I HE M M li T J* \ i . l\ \ man A ** i :. /hole tinent. Madai new, even in her litei i many i ■ a this well worth) : — •■ I. ■ 1 and ■ 1 GERMAN UNIVERSITIES. 105 several universities, the improvement of one of these schools neces- sarily occasioned the improvement of the others. No sooner, there- fore, had Gottingen risen to a decided superiority through her system of curatorial patronage, and other subordinate improvements, than the different governments found it necessary to place their seminaries, as far as possible, on an equal footing. The nuisance of professional recommendation, under which the universities had so long pined, was generally abated ; and the few schools in which it has been tol- erated subsist only through their endowments, and stand as warning monuments of its effect. Compare wealthy Greifswalde with poor Halle. The virtual patronage was, in general, found best confided to a small body of curators ; though the peculiar circumstances of the country, and the peculiar organization of its machinery of govern- ment, have recently enabled at least one of the German States to concentrate, without a violation of our principles, its academical pat- ronage in a ministry of public instruction. This, however, we can- not now explain. It is universally admitted, that since their rise through the new system of patronage, the universities of Germany have drawn into their sphere the highest talent of the nation ; that the new era in its intellectual life has been wholly determined by them ; as from them have emanated almost all the most remarkable products of German genius in literature, erudition, philosophy, and science. " * In former times the universities — Leipzig for example — were largely sustained by extensive landed estates. But these, from various causes, have passed out of their pos- session, and the support of the universities now devolves upon the appropriations of the State and the fees of students. The following account of the expenditures and income of the nine universities of Prussia, and of the Academy * " Discussions on Philosophy and Literature.'' Second London edition, p. 33i. LIFE IN THE FATHER* of M iistcr, has the G and may their — 1 . for th< amounts to 1,492,21 1 thai derived from State fun I the remaining the investments of the several institutio is entire sum . ! iha- for institute^, museum univei >ij>; 184,052 thalers . u thalers foi . univ< administration ; 47,534 thalers for incidentals and ( n the- various institutes connected with tl. rent departments of the univi in and ( tingen 1 im ; th< id the latter, 1 Jl in the follou Bonn, 1 - . 1 [alle, 1 27, ;\; thalei 1 lau, 11 ji thai* nly uni which the State, hut mis' . the ineoine fi wn propcrl ,.}.ko • and. tin. ills, the \\ M instt II • ■ in thl . in the law GERMAN UNIVERSITIES. 107 professors in ordinary, and forty-three extraordinary in the medical faculties, 108,192 thalers ; two hundred and nine professors in ordinary, and eighty-six extraordinary in the philosophical faculties, 302,042 thalers. The remainder of the whole sum is applied to lectures, teachers of languages, and instructors in fencing, music, riding, and dancing. The average support of a regular pro- fessor is 1,246! thalers ; the theological professor receiving a little more than any of the rest. The average in all the faculties is as follows : A professor in ordinary in the theological faculty receives 1,262' thalers ; one in the law faculty, 1,258! thalers ; one in the medical faculty, 1,223 J thalers ; one in the philosophical faculty, 1,257! thalers. The highest average salary in any one university is received by a regular professor in Berlin, who gets 1,568 thalers. Then follow Kiel, with an average salary of 1,446 thalers ; Gottingen, 1,445 thalers ; Bonn, 1,349 thalers ; Halle, 1,259 thalers ; Griefswald, 1,252 thalers ; Breslau, 1,134 thalers; Konigsberg, 1,097; Marburg, 1,069 tna_ lers ; and at the Academy of Monster the average salary is only 842 thalers. The salaries of professors extraor- dinary are so varied that an average cannot be arrived at. They range from 200 to 1,200 thalers. Of instructors in the universities who receive no salary whatever, there are five professors in ordinary, (two at Gottingen, two at Breslau, and one at Bonn,) and forty professors extraor- dinary. Of the latter, there are five theologians, four priests, eighteen in the medical faculties, and thirteen in the philosophical faculties. Of the sum applied to institutes and museums, the 1 08 L IFE IN THE 1 '. 1 THERL . I ND. rtion is drawn by the m< departmenl aria alone require almost tion dl the libraries of all the univ< \\ thalers ; the latter. rheGott library receives yearl) 15 \2 ; tl the! »nn libs \ thalers ; the K< the I slau library, thalers; the Halle librar) thalers ; the Marburg librai 1 thalers ; the wald library, 4,335 thalers : the Kiel library. 4,306 thai I university library at Berlin re ■ s— a wry small sum. But it must be remembered thai great royal library of Berlin is open for all univei purposes, and is very richly endowed 1 The division of labor practiced in the German univ< sities is « arried to a marvc I tenl I are allowed much liberty in the choice of them courses of lectun iken th importance be n< Unquestionabl <-i the t causes of the prosperity of the unh the litei tivity of the instruct I the 1 to labor which the student them, lies in tl that men are im :011s with careful regard to the depart n A studs in which they hai and -\' ! ' I the man to hi- I If I \\ to th in I ' lhc . the GERMAN UNIVERSITIES. 109 German university would soon lose its traditional influ- ence. In this respect, as in others, it is essentially a re- public, and has been for many generations, whatever the character of the government holding jurisdiction over it. In order to show how far this division of labor is car- ried, and how much is conceded to the individual taste of teacher and student, as well as to give some notion of the wonderful intellectual machinery in constant operation in the German universities, I present an abstract from the prospectus of five representative theological departments. There are four faculties in all the universities, with but an exception or two : theology, law, medicine, philosophy. Political science, philology, history, and, in fact, all sub- jects not embraced under theology, law, or medicine, are grouped under the last head. From the number of lect- ures, and the specialty of the themes in the theological department, those of the three remaining faculties may be pretty well imagined. BERLIN. — Dorner : Theological Encyclopaedia and Methodology ; Special Christian Doctrine ; Exercises in Systematic Theology. Rodi- ger : Genesis ; Chaldaic Language f and the Book of Daniel ; Intro- duction to Old Testament. Senary: I.Samuel; Psalms; Hebrew Language and other Semitic Dialects. Kleinert : Isaiah; Biblical Theology of the Old Testament ; Significance of the Old Testament for the Church of the Present Time ; Theological Disputation. Die- terici : Minor Prophets. Vatke : Introduction to Old Testament ; Doctrines. Strauss : History of the Old Testament, including Bibli- cal Archaeology ; Catechetics ; Homiletics, and Homiletical Exercises. Messner : Introduction to New Testament ; Christology of New Tes- tament. Bruckner : John's Gospel ; Homiletical Exercises. Twes- ten : Epistle to Hebrews ; Moral Science ; Symbolical Basis of the 1 1 I /.// .- : ■ Hisi : I I : ■ i ■ H A U.K. — A'd GERMAN UNIVERSITIES. Ill TJioluck: Synoptic Gospels; Sermon on the Mount; Exercises in New Testament Exegesis. Beyschlag : Exegesis of Christ's Para- bles ; Epistles to the Romans ; Life of Christ ; Exercises in Homi- letics and Catechetics. Dahne : II. Corinthians; Epistle of James. Guericke : Epistle to the Philippians ; Church History (first period.) Wuttke : History of Deism and Rationalism ; Ethics ; Exercises in Dogmatics and Ethics. Julius Mailer : Introduction to Dogmat- ics ; Dogmatic Theology ; Practical Theology. Kramer : History of Later Pedagogics. Leipzig. — Kahnis: History of Doctrines; Theological Encyclo- paedia; History of the Church in the Middle Ages. Luthardt : Dog- matic Theology ; Epistle to the Hebrews ; Characteristics of New Testament Scriptures ; Doctrinal Exercises. Lechler: History of Christian Missions. Delitzsch : Genesis ; Song of Solomon ; Mat- thew's Gospel. Fricke : Epistle to the Galatians ; Life of Christ ; Christian Ethics ; History of the Bible. Tischendorf : Introduction to the New Testament ; Palestine. Hblemann : Epistles to the Thessalonians ; Scriptural Idea of God. Hoffmann : Symbolics ; Practical Theology ; Catechetical Exercises. Schmidt : Epistles to the Corinthians; Christian Apologetics. Brockhaus : Church His- tory (first period). Mahlau: Book of Job; Hebrew Syntax ; Epistle to the Colossians ; Exegetical History of Old Testament. Kauisch : Isaiah ; History of Israel in Time of the Kings. Schurer : Introduc- tion to New Testament ; Exegetical History of New Testament. Basle (Switzerland). — Hagenbach : Later Church History (from 1555 to the Present Time) ; Theological Encyclopaedia and Method- ology ; Elucidation of the Reformed Confessions ; Exercises in Church History and Homiletics. Stahelin : Introduction to the Pro- phetical and Poetical Books of the Old Testament ; History of the Jews ; Dialectical Exercises. Midler : New Testament Introduction ; Historical Basis for Higher Criticism ; Commentary on Epistles of John, James, Jude ; Elucidation of Works of Philo. Riggenbach : Commentary on the Synoptic Gospels down to the Passion ; Cate- chetics ; Theological Society. Schultz : System of Doctrine ; Proph- ecy of Isaiah ; Exegetical Society. Von der Goltz : Epistle to the i i - 1 /.//■/•: TN THE fa ////:/ mar ; 1 »ides the theological faculties in these five unU there are six Tl in the sity of Berne, land ; fifl and Roman Catholic faculti \ in I i in Erlangen ; eight in Freibui .. i >en ; thirteen in G n : four i nine in Heidelb n in ; seven in K Munich I Roman Catholi Jit in Mfmsl Catholic) ; eight in Prague tock : fourteen in Ti bii Protestant holic fa< ulties) : ten in Vienn nine in Wiirtzbui Zurich (nearly all Ratio: Tl. I in Universit) and the administration of then. cut i the Stal I l ident i nc country, while the man from whom 1 i bclonj it' th< ■ ison, tl ment is pi and tin the • students 1 lV. 1: the unix I : GERMAN UNIVERSITIES. I 1 3 laws have not kept pace with those of the State, and he demands that his whole guild shall be placed on exactly the same footing with other citizens. He hopes in this way to acquire liberty, I imagine, of fighting duels to his heart's content. Heidelberg University has already ab- rogated its court. It is difficult to imagine how any one can have greater freedom than the German student. He can do what he pleases within the bounds of morality, and sometimes outside of them. The professors, as such, have nothing whatever to do with discipline, and their rela- tion is purely that of teachers to pupils. The students may absent themselves from lectures as much as they choose, and if they are disorderly, and wish to play a prank by locking the lecture-room door — though just such soph- omOrical nonsense is never dreamed of in Germany — the humble beadle is the disciplinarian ; and yet, poor wight, he can only report the offenders to the university judge. When will the day come when the whole police system of our American schools will be abolished ? When our young men are trusted, and regarded as gentlemen and equals, a new hour will have come in the development of our educational life. The whole university system of Germany is now under- going serious reconsideration.* The last twenty-four years have wrought such changes in it that the best educators * Among the most recent German works treating the need of imme- diate university reform, are :— (i.) Meyer, " Die Zukmift der denischen Hochschulen!' Breslau : 1874. (2.) Reusch, " Theologische Facultdten oder Seminarien ? " Bonn: 1873. (3.) Holtzendorff, " Die Gegenwart." (Nos. 27, 28,) 1873. (4.) Ravoth, " Zur Revision und Reformirung der Lehr mul Lem-methode an den Universitaten." Berlin: 1874. i 14 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. to the future. The pr< decline in the number of students ling the Berlin University cannot be accounted 1 increased expense of living. The new attention md natural scien< brought int ful working a large class of polytechnical and other ii tutions of popular grade that have made fearful inr upon most of the universities. Their old meth heavy, and the crisis of uncertainty as to what n« to adopt is painfully present. Singularly enough, while Some Americans are slavishly following in the 1 of the Germans, and boasting that they are n the faultless German uni stem, the Germ themselves are proposing to ch American plan. They say their own, as it now and that the lack of unity in theology and general spirit in the German university is proving fatal. Veai >a 0, I'orner lamented the al of the element, and his jeremiad is more in . than when he uttered it. Holtzendorff pro| that the unive building Berlin be removed, ami that dormil built for the accommodation hi hundred stud< hing but this, he claims, can bring individi the university work and life. I; ■ young theologians, five philol . ami t imodati dent -up hi and will lil GERMAN UNIVERSITIES. 115 TABLE OF THE GERMAN UNIVERSITIES: Including the few others, identical in language, and generally- ranked with those of Germany. 1873, 1874. Name and Location. „« 5.5 C 5 oO — a I. Germany. *" °'" 1. Berlin 1809 55 2. Bonn 1818 58 3. Breslau 1506 49 4. Erlangen 1743 34 5. Friburg 1457 38 6. Giessen 1607 34 7. Gottingen 1737 56 8. Greifswald 1456 34 9. H alle 1697 45 10. Heidelberg 1386 40 11. Jena 1558 26 12. Kiel 1665 34 13. Konigsberg 1544 44 14. Leipsig 1409 55 15. Marburg 1527 32 16. Munich 1472 66 17. Rostock 1419 27 18. Strasburg 1566 50 19. Tubingen 1477 4 1 20. Wurtzburg II. German Austria. 1. Gratz i486 42 2. Innspruck 1673 38 3. Prague 1347 51 4. Vienna J 36s 79 III. Switzerland. 1. Bale 1460 30 2. Berne 1834 30 3. Zurich 1832 33 IV. German Russia. 1. Dorpat 1632 38 28 66 756 w ~ *- rj a £ 5 o I30 185 3.05I 45 103 834 5S 107 1,022 21 55 408 13 5i 294 23 57 320 4 s 104 979 20 54 531 47 92 961 68 108 883 38 64 425 24 58 174 30 74 58i 92 147 2,845 32 64 392 45 in 1,128 7 34 126 24 74 405 36 77 896 54 880 30 72 722 20 58 64o 62 "3 1,442 143 222 3-440 30 60 150 32 62 315 42 72 462 Total 1,159 I > J 88 2,398 25,067 6 n6 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. T CHAPTER VI. HE1DE I- ■; 1- '< G U N 1 V I k 5 I IV. Ill', one who -rows weary of Heidd of compassion. My first visit to the lovely Little city, in [857, w;i> for the purpose of immediate matricu- lation in the university. In three days I I to be :xemplary student, hearing and 1 lectures :i day, ami spending not in one hour in the twenty-four in the famous library. Hut it v. lull months before I could get within the lectun enticing was the scenery without. Ami, to be candid, I never matriculated at all in Heidelberg, but heard |< at irregular intervals. In spi I summer, the nades and hill-sides are simply i" rhe walks to the Molkenkur and Wolfsbrunnen, the stiff climb to the Konigstuhl, and a scramble among th ruins of the Castle, with its chaos of ivy. ne, t.. me a reality, hut rather a n spell, wh back was the apprehension that it won'. ken. : I many a time by the whole afternoon, one has a elad slo] ross the N I the d< Strauss, the author of th such 1 violent pan: man tl HEIDELBERG UNIVERSITY. WJ walked to and fro until every pebble and shrub became familiar to him ; and of the dwelling which will be remem- bered and visited for many years as the cheerful home of the sweet-spirited Bunsen. The following account of the Heidelberg professors, and of their brethren elsewhere, is the result of various opportunities to visit the institutions where they labor, to hear them in their lecture-rooms, to enjoy many delight- ful hours at some of their peaceful homes, to accompany some of them on their walks, and, above all, to be aided by many of them in directions for study. So far as Halle is concerned, I had the privilege of a period of uninter- rupted study and daily contact with its great minds. A feeling of sadness comes over any one not in sym- pathy with the prevailing theology in Heidelberg, who remembers what was taught there fifteen years ago, when its principal chairs were occupied by men of evangelical sentiment. The genial, original Hundershagen was there then, but went later to Bonn. His mantle seems to have fallen on Christlieb. Not even Herder himself lived more in the Old Testament period, or clothed it with a fresher life, than the magnificent Umbreit, the most eloquent German professor whom it has ever been my fortune to hear. But he has fallen, and his poetry has long ago become a living reality. The seat of Rothe, who was himself the very personification of his own great ethical system, is occu- pied by another. The places of these men, and of a few more of similar spirit that might be mentioned, are filled by others of laxer — they call it more liberal — theology. The consequence is, that the number of theological stu- n8 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. dents in Heidelberg has so diminished within a few i as to have become a serious question for the Baden « ernment All recent attempts to reinforce the theol cal faculty by the sion of the best theologians I Other universities have tailed, and must as the theology at Heidelberg maintains its present i. tive tone. Hitzig is now climbing up among th< Ger- man learning, for he has well passed his thi His has been a life of real study, all ..f it spent in academic seclusion, and may he taken a- imen of German professorial circulation from unive: to university, in answer to calls to and fro, from north to south. \\ inteen years old he studied theology at Heidell and in the following year went to H. die. and sat at the i ienius. In [828 he became I Ihe- ology at Heidelberg, and four years afterward went /. iri( h in a similar * apacity. IK- returned Heidelberg, in 1861, where he now gives the rij his long study. He lecture-. .n requires, on all branch* iment science, (.attain subje led with the New Testament, and on the 1.. the Semitic stem. Now tli.it Tuch is with Ewald at the lie. id of the < »ld 1 lament 1 criti 1 lermany. 1 le d as an nd his first work, the • illy applied to the < >ld Testanu of a hi. I learning which have ripened in hi nd exposition Ims, P ilomon, Jeremiah, Eceki the M HEIDELBERG UNIVERSITY. 1 19 Prophets, and lesser works of like import. His criticism is bold, and, if very learned, yet betrays far less sympathy with the truths of revelation than patience and thorough- ness of research. Hitzig is tall, angular, and awkward to excess. If the veriest countryman who brings vegetables to the market- floor of Faneuil Hall were placed on the rostrum of any senate, he would not present a more abominable violation of all the maxims of elocutionary taste and ease than this same archaeologist. Hitzig looks for all the world as if he might be some long-lost and forgotten hieroglyphic, sudden- ly fished up from the slimy bank of the Nile or Euphrates. His very clothing appears as if it might have been made for any other gaunt man sooner than for him. His arms are as long as Lincoln's, and, while lecturing, he folds them and swings them about as if practicing some system of gymnastics of which Dio Lewis has never heard. He sits down and rises again at intervals, poking out and twisting his long fingers as if trying to make a knot or braid of them, or to practice upon his auditors some an- cient alphabet for the deaf and dumb. His gloves are hardly at rest on one side of his desk before they have to emigrate to the other. His notes are of immense quarto size, and every time he wishes to turn them over he has to go through the motions similar to those of a man read- ing all sides of a double-sheet newspaper without cutting the leaves. Like nearly all German professors, he wears a ring — some of them indulge in several. Hitzig's ring, having to be an antique, or else not at all to his taste, is set with some immense red stone, whose brilliancy contrasts UFE IN THE FATHERLANi pl< with his thill brown notes, three mil r knife on which would I immens amount of manipulation. Hitzig, in the only lecture I have heard by him, was in his element. 1 [is subje • of travel, and hospitality of the ancien' to have just taken a journej life-tin among, the inhabitants the time of t; Jud lie showed how the other nations in social habits, and he mesticatcd anion- them kh among the nd Romans. The wayfarer did i I . when he h to pay with. A little present :■ much thought of as the payment < : ilL W travelers met I inferi iched the ground with their m rhe 1 1 knew nothing of tl when a in hot: — enlarged upon, and abun but n< Hitzig, with all his antiq ■ \\\ the r tli.it rem.uk i amoi thn He HEIDELBERG UNIVERSITY. 121 sistently enough, used the Bible, as well he might, as his chief authority, though it is too well known that he denies exegetically the authenticity of the very books which he uses as his strongest corroborative evidence. On the topography of Palestine, our American Robinson is his great stay, as he is of all men of learning in the same department throughout Germany and Great Britain. In order that the students might not lose any important term, Hitzig wrote, from time to time, on the blackboard, the original words, in the different Oriental languages con- cerned, and so readily and beautifully as betrayed his per- fect familiarity with the Hebrew and its cognates. Schenkel, also of the Theological Faculty, has great popular power as a speaker, and it is impossible for any one to go to sleep while hearing him, or to forget what he says after leaving his presence. He is forcible, sometimes very eloquent, but brimful of inconsistencies, and some- times contradicts himself more than once in the same hour. He speaks, apparently, with utter self-forgetfulness, and in a short time can work himself into a perspiration, his cravat-bow around to the nape of his neck, and the pens out of the hands of his hearers. A lecture on the temp- tation of Christ, indicates both his style and theological tone. " The temptation of Christ," said he, " is no religious incantation, like Mephistopheles in Faust ; neither was it an historical occurrence, as presented by the New Testa- ment ; much less was it a myth, as Strauss holds. It has simply an historical germ, as with the miracle of changing the water into wine at the marriage at Cana in Galilee, but was not a fact in its particulars. The New Testament 1 22 I. IFE IN THE F. 1 THERJL l XI >. lint of Chi mptation is Oriental, and is a narra- tive framed according to the id what the Church afterward thought Christ to be. Evil is reflected in the teniptatimi. Christ, in order to be ready for his i compelled to resist the principle of evil, and thi the meaning of the Satan described by Matthew. Christ felt that he could save Israel, and in his resistance of the principle of evil he showed his capacity f«»r accomplish his object He felt that his call was to pour balm into the wounds of his times. The first quest rhich Christ had to ask were: 'Am I not the Old Testament M siah?' 'Am 1 n«»t the Son of David?' The tern; tion now came to say: 'You are this very i you can best prove it if you will do what I tell you — namely: restore the -lory of Jerusalem and the splei of Israel.' The temptation to enjoy hims honor from men, to h it il was all an inward feeling. I le that the Messianic kingdom was merely to take the proph- 9 of the Old Testament in their literal si 'ion. Tin- Jews were full of the ( >ld Testament Mi- ami Christ was inwardly tempted to 1 with it. whole triumph over these inward stir: preparatory work for th< mplishmeni II did not proclaim himself the M henkel's lectui iund, j' in thrusts at the prevailing tin- orthodox view ol tural autl I i he bechurche n any man ol Ins i a] \a an i HEIDELBERG UNIVERSITY. 1 23 any subject not kindred to theology. The people hear him and read his writings, because he speaks and writes freshly. As a thorough scholar, a profound theologian, a man entitled to the claims he makes, he commands the respect of no mind in Germany not in harmony with his negative views. He is, confessedly, the most complete theological charlatan of Germany. If his efforts shall have the result of making the orthodox divines throw away their stilts, tread squarely on the ground with the people, and use the language of the hungering masses, they will not be in vain. Already there are gratifying signs that he and his school are unintentionally exerting this very influence. I counted but seventeen students in his lecture-room when I heard him last. According to very late accounts, he has but two. If one should enter the large halls of the evangelical theological professors at Halle or Berlin, he would have to go early to get a good seat. The young men of Germany are on the side of orthodox theology, and this is only one of the proofs. Dr. Gass fills the chair of Systematic Theology, made vacant by the death of the beloved Rothe. One would suppose that history would be more to his taste, in view of his elaborate " History of Protestant Doctrines," on which his reputation chiefly rests. He has his notes beside him, but uses them very little. He is small-sized, and has the air of the cultivated gentleman, and of the lover of society quite as much as of books. Dr. Gass has a pleas- ant voice, but never makes a surprise, like Hitzig in an adjoining room. In a lecture on angelology and demonology, he said : " The idea of angels has never 6* 124 LI 11: IN THE FATHERLAND. ■ the Christian faith. All the prim our religion would be the same without them. Such exist, neverth< human welfare. The) rnment, and constitute an important part of it. In to the question, 'What are the angels?' the New lent gives but little information, and speaks only of thi belief in angels is very important, for it animates the whole realm of 1 lief in den always had a hold on the moral life of man. ity, by refining it, is distinguished in th dualistic and gno intiquity. The script- ural idea of Satan, and of demons in general, is. tl esent general principles. The figui - itan in .simply shows how near the principle 1 could in ( rod's pn I he Ne« 1 I -•anient of Satan and demons bears t: Of heathendom. The whole idea of the and demons in the New Testament is simj th.- conquest of sin over all opposition." After leaving this lecture it was difficult to tell i what ( lass thought of Satan, whether he not. I ked my friend what he understood the learned to hold ,,n this point. sing my own failure I any clear idea of his meaning he. - he m< that the qualit . ual ami verital in t! hut th stand Satan, he must he metapln su all\ 1 was now : r dinnei HALLE.— T WO OF I TS NES TORS. 1 2 5 o CHAPTER VII. HALLE. TWO OF ITS NESTORS. NE does not need to walk over five minutes from the railway station of Halle before being convinced that he is in a really German university town. Excepting some new buildings in the suburbs, the main features of the place must be very nearly what they were centuries ago. An old round tower occupies a prominent position as you enter the long, narrow, cobble-stone alley, which is inclosed on the left by the same rough high wall that was a part of the fortifications in the Middle Ages. On the right are lodging houses for the students, some of whom may be seen leaning over the broad window-sills, half enveloped in clouds of tobacco smoke from their long pipes. By taking a broader but more circuitous street to the University, a bookstore is seen at every few paces. The windows are plentifully supplied with the later works of the Halle professors, the spare interstices being filled with their portraits. I was glad, on one of my later visits, to buy at a shop an excellent carte de visite of Tholuck, representing his bloodless, leathery, wrinkled face, better than any portrait of him I had seen. The bookstores increase in number as you approach the University, until you reach the last one, Herr Petersen's, in which velvet- coated and long-booted students ; books and pamphlets, stretching from Faust's day down to ours ; maps, old, new, i-' i LIFE IN THE FATh andnon in such net nly in an antiquarian b Uli: . n. Julius M uller, the author of the ," and celebrated throughout 1 of led . • I * his " Docti ::... ; ' umcs. Th( n his appe I [e is n on account a thicker and weaker h the play as important - the same pleasant I with ili« i time I whom turer did i. students ; it »■ • tion. M HALLE.— TWO OF ITS NESTORS. \2J religion to social life, of the grounds of real social free- dom, and of the utility and necessity of overcoming indi- vidual peculiarities for the public good. It was just such a lecture as one would expect from M filler — profoundly learned, fortified by the strongest authorities, and, best of all, in perfect harmony with the Scriptures. When the hall-clock struck the hour for the professor to cease, he kept on reading toward the close of his section, amid the general buzz of his auditors, who were evidently deter- mined to hear no more, but busied themselves with cork- ing their inkstands, folding their notes, and finding their way to their hats, canes, and the door. I was surprised to see how well Tholuck looked, com- pared with his delicate and even death-like appearance in former years. His lecture-room was well filled — a test of his undiminished hold on the students. He lectured on the twelfth chapter of the Gospel of John. One of the students had a copy of the last edition of Tholuck's " Commentary on John " before him, endeavoring in this way to follow the lecturer. " But this was impossible. The old body was so vitalized by new blood, that he was com- pelled to close the book frequently, and hear the newest and freshest thoughts of the man who was giving to his audience a better commentary on the Fourth Gospel than he had ever given to the printer. Tholuck was almost blind, and had to bring his notes well nigh into contact with his face in order to decipher them. When he leisurely laid them down, and looked right out upon the students as if he could see the most distant face and into the deepest heart, he always said what took firmest hold, and was lined t.i be I »t in mind I ■ handlui lildren. -luck U compelled to do 1 ftion, and, inde< : one <>r i en the consumptiv< but he is now thn i ten. 1 1< ■ of h tribution of time for literary lal twelve in the mon ks up and down th< . promenade in his ; I re, in this only idle hour at I thc< ■ ■ comi nsult him on ii and |uaintai main miles and years ha> if the i his promen; ■ still ■ dl \\ HALLE.— TWO OF ITS NESTORS. 1 29 to be conveyed to his friends, readers, and co-workers beyond the sea, he looked toward the blue sky, and, a smile playing over his face, replied in a voice full of pathos : "/Tell them I am still working hard here for the higher work of heaven Tj In Germany they celebrate every thing — birthdays, bap- tismal-days, wedding-days, days of induction into office, of receiving degrees and titles, and, indeed, all manner of days around which one can hang a scrap of interest or romance. Any excuse is regarded better than none in order to have a resting spell, an extra dinner, a little con- gratulatory poetry, and all one's friends at the board. You are hardly over one of these scenes before another one is upon you, and life in the Fatherland is one continual cele- bration. Such an event as the completion of a half a century of steady work in the halls of a quiet German university must be numbered among the " white days " of life, and the year 1870 was distinguished by two of these in Halle alone, the former being that of Professor Leo, the well-known historian, and the latter that of the still bet- ter known Tholuck. I remember often passing Professor Leo, years ago, in the dirty old streets of Halle, and little dreamed that the brisk little old man — his white, round head crowned jauntily with a hat that might once have been black, and have had some shape — had then been writing and lecturing history for thirty-six years. But he has survived it all, and has, probably, a half dozen more books slumbering in his busy brain. As to how many new courses of lectures, essays, and political articles he is incubating, who will dare to guess ? I jO LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. first to the third. 1870, th 1 of 1. k 's half century of work in the Univi lalle ited in a manner worthy of hi and the thousands of his grateful disciples. The intin .1 relations which he has cultivated with the stud* from the very day he entered on his duties in the un: sity, ace »unt in a large measure for the from all pai I iermany who were present at the gath- ering. The festivities commenced in th< Prince Hotel, where the dining-hall lied witl Tholuck delivered an address to them, calling them " disciples or admirer-, hut friends in Ch retrospect of his laboi an instructor and an author. told of his conversion, and that he had made i: object not to be a "book pi .' but a "student ; or," and that it had 1 Lid truthfully of him that " he cultivated rather the i, and of Students than candidal. He had b< • Halle to fight the prevailing Rationalism, and l< way to a better tal He urged audi have but "i a — Him. only Him." I a the second morning of tin ity Musical Club serenaded the •• Praise the Lord, the mighty K Th man said, in his acknowlcd \hk h we h thank < sinfulness, and real penil k. in I wlii- All the hall HALLE.— T WO OF ITS NES TORS. 1 3 1 occupied, either by the friends of the doctor or by the mul- titudes of wreaths, bouquets, and garlands that they had brought and piled into pyramids. But the testimonial Kogel brought with him, from the Prussian Ministry of Public Worship — the Star of the Red Eagle of the second class, with oaken branch — was most prominent. This was old Kaiser William's tribute. Court-preacher Hoffmann was the bearer of the salutations of the Ecclesiastical Council, and called Tholuck " one of the outmost guards in the conflict of the Church, a veritable Church Father of the nineteenth century ; " and nobody, not even the Rationalists themselves, will question the merit of the term. The rector of the Halle University acknowledged the services of Tholuck for science, the Church, and the University, and presented to him a special semi-centen- nial production in Latin, by Professor Schlottman, enti- tled " The Union of the Roman and German Nations." In replying to this, the doctor told the process of his dealing with the Halle skeptics in his younger days, and that, notwithstanding, he had never wanted for friends in all the four Faculties. The congratulations of the students were embodied in a neat speech by one of the number ; the Theological Faculty congratulated through its dean ; the various universities throughout Germany were repre- sented personally by their very brightest stars ; and the pas- tors of different cities sent one or more thither, to say that their love and admiration were unabated. An album, containing the portraits of all the amanuenses who had served the doctor through his long life as an author, was /.// \THERLAND. the number, him- iatic — Superintendent M 11< tlphus n and h(>: sionary organiz and I know not how ither ciations — many of which had r< I their very life from his sympathetic pen — sent re; sor Jacobi, the Church historian, touched the chord in host and guests when h< the doctor, written and signed by thi in the German army at that very hour before I feeling of gratitude, undiminished love, and for mat [good work for the old man. the 3 mortally wounded, and hi^ in a trembling hand. A sum of i friends," amounting to four thousand and seven hund thai I holuck fund for tl. of indigent th< .1 stud< nts. 1 h ibu- tions from England, Holland, and . In the afternoon more than thre< down to the dinner. I Thoiu. k ibian by birth, wa •ion and compliment, and a I 1 lourt-preacher II ffi nun, who l since in tl l ntrymen to th< • the l II win. h has the the tl d with th< i HALLE.— T WO OF 1 TS NESTORS. 1 3 3 Bismarck, Dr. Von Moltke, Dr. Von Roon ! The dinner closed by singing the old hymn : " Let all praise God ! " In the evening there was an immense torchlight proces- sion by the students, and far into the night the quiet Halleans heard Luther's hymn, " A strong tower is our God," reverberating through their crooked streets. Tho- luck urged his theological serenaders to compensate for the chasms of war by deeper and truer spiritual life. The guests started for their various homes the next day, happy to have seen once more, and probably for the last time, the old teacher of their youth — himself, perhaps, the youngest of them all ; for, like Schleiermacher, Tholuck seems to have made a bond with youth never to part com- pany. It would have been just like him of the laboring oar to rise as early as usual the morning after the festivi- ties to his honor, more full of literary plans for the future than when, half a century previously, the apparently dying consumptive entered the lists with a learned book on the " Sufism, or the Pantheistic Theosophy of the Persians." The two things that struck me most of all he said dur- ing the celebration were, first, that though he had "always been bent, he had never been broken;" referring to his continual sickness from childhood, and to his unceasing work under it ; and, second, that he was on the most friendly terms with every one of his eighty-four associate professors. Truly, that sun is going down in a cloudless sky. Long may the students still call the man of their love, " The eternal Tholuck ! " LIFE IN Til! HAPTER VIII. MM. BERLIN I * I ttingen i ma in medicine, Munich in i guages, while Halli »r, in tl. but noG tan, and mal irn- to the left at the • the in: •' icrly ti. l William III., in I It s; N !' 1 : the THE BERLIN UNIVERSITY. 1 35 volumes and fourteen thousand MSS. in the library, every- one of which is carefully recorded in its catalogue of eight hundred and eighty-seven folio volumes. The most im- portant works are never permitted to be taken from the library. There is one room in which those who wish to consult books can read and write at leisure. There is nothing imposing in the appearance of the university building ; it is dingy, devoid of all architectural display, and, with the exception of the refreshing little plot of grass in the front court, is uninviting in the extreme. But a day spent under its roof in hearing the lectures of its professors, and seeing its throngs of students, gathered from all parts of the world, gives one an idea of the mag- nitude of the intellectual influence of the university upon the age, which cannot be derived from the most faithful description. . In the quarter-hour interval between the lectures, the halls are thronged with the professors of all the departments, hurrying to and from their lectures, with students of many nationalities, and with visitors anxious to hear, though but once, the men whose books they had been for years feeding on. On the register posted at the entrance of the building I counted, when last in Berlin, the names of one hundred and twenty-six professors and licentiates, many of whom lecture every day in the week, and some oftener, though the most infirm only read once or twice. The aged Ranke was doing good service still ; the elder Nitzsch was like- wise kept at his post. His son, if his dry lecture on Romans which I heard be a fair specimen of his exegetical skill, gives but little evidence of his father's acuteness. LIFE IN THE FATHERLANi who died in i is -till in tl He was ere I in form, quick in movement, rare pictun H rapidly through the hall, and evidently knew well ho .v his way adn.itly through the crowd toward lure-room or pen. Lepsius, the 1 IS if his heart were nearer the pyramids than Berlin. Twesten, short, re therly, m he distinguished in a moment by his picture Piper, one nf the pleasanti es in all the throng, hurried hastily up to the third story, where he could feed upon his rich lit- tle museum of Christian antiquiti sor i N ider and Niedner, gave pi of useful work, lie appeared to be brimful of his th« and seemed conscious of hi- lility in contim the labors of his celebral nly the hell struck the hour for lectures to recomm halls w< I as by magic, the l< wen .aiidn ind could be heard but th . of] I' is now nearly fifl hesitation, i hip in the i Kiel, to take th< in Bci lin. 1 !<• and still stands firmly at his post, lectin of tun. k on I John's G i middle , wcai s the i THE BERLIN UNIVERSITY. 1 37 school ; and has the habit of commencing his lecture be- fore he is fairly in his chair. I saw his lips in motion some time before it was possible to catch a single sen- tence, and sometimes not a word of a sentence. He has his notes before him, but seldom consults them. The lecture I last heard — one of his course on Symbolical Theology — related to the morbid and abnormal phenom- ena of Christian life, in which he spoke of the part which fanaticism had played in the history of the Church. True faith, he said, consists in the harmonious union of nature and the supernatural. Fanaticism becomes superstition when it unites nature and the supernatural improperly. Superstition does not do justice to the natural, and unbe- lief does not do justice to the supernatural. In all that Twesten said there was not the slightest indication of mental imbecility. He has ripened into a sweet old age. His face might well be the study of a Fra Angelico, wish- ing to portray cheerfulness, simplicity, and love, crowning a long, hard-working, Christian life. Hengstenberg had to lecture in a large room. His course on Psalms was so largely attended that, according to his own statement, there was not a single vacant seat. He walked quickly to his chair, said " Gentlemen," and then read such a clear and concise lecture as one would expect from a man who is impressed with the magnitude of his theme, and the part his auditors are to take in the Church of the future. The Scriptures, he said, are in- spired not merely in a general, but in a special respect. Reason does not know how to decide between what may and what, may not be inspired. Inspiration is elevating, 138 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. purifying, and hortatory. A writing n if it belongs t<» the Scriptures. The < >1<1 . only remnant we have <>f the antediluvian ; lation and inspiration belong to each 1 the pomplement <>t" the other. Hengstenberg's peculiar manner of delivery p enough to disturb the sol ne wh< regular attendant upon his lectures. He had a di harsh voice when on a high key, hut his not unpleasant, yet often so low ..ike hi- un- intelligible. Though he would eall I yet turned in his chair ; 1 up : wheeled around on one side ; rested his n the I of his chair; looked out of the window at the fal then sprang up again ; pulled his chair int tion, or out of position, as the down into it again ; wheeled round; t buttoned and unbuttoned it : II the w nad a manuscript which it was a wonder, amid all his twichinj rn into fragments, round him. Thus his lecture went on until th< ke stopped hi rid sent tin out of the room. 1 i his lie might idiblc to many of his stud idle th< out with a lion-like viol some of his edit in th ■ THE BERLIN UNIVERSITY. 139 attached to the Mediation Theology — indeed, is one of its most industrious cultivators. Not one of the elder theologians whom I heard suggested by manner and lan- guage as forcibly as did he that sense of the intensity of life which was the great characteristic and real mag- netic secret of Arnold of Rugby. He is of slight build, has a pleasant face, long, disheveled hair, and a forehead bisected by a bulging, perpendicular vein. Throughout his lecture he moves mechanically back and forth in his chair, introduces his snuff-box at leisure, and gives his watch-guard as thorough a handling as the subject of his lecture. He lectures on dogmatic theology. The stu- dents are deeply attached to him, Semisch and Steinmeyer are in the prime of life, and stand midway between those we have already named and their juniors, who are working up into position. The for- mer professor is second from the sainted Neander in the chair of Church history, but has few of that great man's rare qualities. Semisch lectures to a large audience. I once heard him give a charming picture of the decline of paganism before the enthusiastic devotion and mission- ary spirit of the early Church. At a certain point in his lecture he laid down his notes, arose from his seat, closed his eyes, put his hand to his face as if in extreme pain, and made quite a lengthy and, to me, alarming pause. All the students dropped their pens. My first thought was that he was suddenly taken ill, perhaps had apoplexy. But it proved to be only his usual way of delivering his extempore episodes. He spoke about ten minutes very earnestly, without once looking at his notes, and then sat 1 l to them again, when the imed I tig. 1 illy the best ] le lecture, but it is just tl : the university lectures thai 1. either by profi udent, I down. The students call them < . hich they mean, talking from the heart. teinroeyer i n an ami. ben he published an excellent little volume principal work ntrihutions to the Understandinj the Script i work which has had tin vera! editions. He i for his course "u practical 1 He has the ance "1 a refined, Christian gentleman J thin in person ; do< prepare himself spe< ially for th< II has paid more attention to h Ition tl. his col!. t in her-lik< m He has th ;•■ culiar habit, in the early part of his lecture, of laying th< right hand lengthwise his nose, and ke. until he finishes the point he is tryin I . whether in heaven 01 in tin- : rhe Church is the I n ; it spiin-s directly fl : the Church. 1 I It i in t I them the THE BERLIN UNIVERSITY. 141 Church. The preacher is not responsible to the parish for the faithful discharge of his duty, but rather to God ; for the Church never called him to preach — he was called from heaven. The preacher does not derive his commis- sion from the congregation ; he takes nothing from them, but takes all to them from God. All the duties of the preacher may be summed up in one term — " those who take care of the sheep ; " he is the pastor. Messner's theological stand-point may be imagined from the fact that he is editor of the " New Evangelical Church Gazette," the German organ of the Evangelical Alliance. Fie read a carefully prepared and scholarly lec- ture on Paul's Epistles to the Corinthians. He had but fifteen hearers, but, like all who have become illustrious in the German universities, he must commence at the bot- tom of the heap. The top is as much for him as for any one else, but he is too dry ever to reach it. Kleinert is thought by many to be the most gifted, as he is without doubt one of the most evangelical, of all the younger theologians. The prince of the philosophical faculty, Trendelenburg, died a few months since. He went to Berlin as the suc- cessor of Schelling ; he was a prolific author, the most of his works having clustered around his favorite theme, the Aristotelian Philosophy. His great work, " Logical Investigations," appeared over thirty years ago. In this he laid down the principles of what is the nearest approach to an original system, which he has elaborated in his later works, " Niobe," " The Moral Idea of Right," and the " Cologne Cathedral." He lectured, of course, in one of 142 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. had an immense nun gtude ■ | rson he was tall, neatly attired, and 9 the heavy, hand-broad ci ' cn in I, stiffnecked portraits on the old palace walls many. Hi- manner was dull and sluggish in the. nis , cely mure than a hoarse, rough n quite in contrast with the Ptolemaic "mi. the spheres." whieh he so drowsily descanted upon. It w thin- for any str Even many «.f the students in regular hearing upied their time about equally betw« ippy notes and making ear-tnimpel f their hai H ndel- enburg was a I philosopher, hut his barbarously poor— hardly equaled in its line even in the Bril Parliament MUNICH.— DOELLINGER AND SC HELLING. 1 43 CHAPTER IX. MUNICH. DOELLINGER AND SCHELLING. PHE University of Munich is a Roman Catholic insti- ■*- tution, and is the principal school of learning in Bavaria. It was founded in 1472, first located in Ingold- stadt, afterward removed to Landshut, (1800,) and finally established, in 1826, in Munich. It is situated on the Ludwigstrasse, a very quiet street, yet one of the most splendid in Europe, and, with the opposite Priests' Semi- nary, forms a large quadrangle, which is ornamented by two fountains, copied from those in St. Peter's Place in Rome. For many years Doellinger has been the leading pro- fessor in the Roman Catholic University at Munich. He has long been the acknowledged leader of the liberal wing of the Romanists, and, as a penalty for his independence, has been publicly excommunicated by the Pope from its fold. This last exercise of papal authority against a recal- citrant son came to pass on this wise : The convocation of the Vatican Council in 1870 was the signal for new discontent throughout the length and breadth of the Ro- man Catholic Communion. Pere Hyacinthe, in Paris, was not the only one who saw in the coming Council true cause for alarm, knowing full well that every effort would be made by the Pope to impose additional restrictions upon the whole Catholic body. Every liberal Catholic, however, looked to Germany for the leadership of the advanced 1 44 LIFE IN 'J HE F. I THERL* LVD. • .hi «.f the Church, and th in vain. For a long time Doellinger had been ; the ulna measures of Catholicism, and he neve : demanding that it adapt itself to th nations, and to the growth of intelli I the w.rld. I le did this through no sympathy with ism, but in the interest of Catholicism, f<»r he belii that only in this way could it preserve its life in strength and influem e. Being himself an anient n of the flock, he \\ trous of doing all he could to ■ iid perpetuate its integrity. I' of a piece with his whole life that he should alarm against the probable adoption by the Council of the ma of papal infallibility, hut his protest did not vent the act. When the dogma was adopted he did blindly and tacitly acquiesce, hut wrote an nth unwearied dilif hut proving with the logical skill and I tinguish all the fruits of his busy pen. h in the end, void, would he th sense of every impartial man. Thei threat from Rom. ! last v. adlhcthir immunication, with it-^ »nd- on the ■■ ran thu — in ' 11 MUNICH.— DOELLINGER AND SCHELLING. 145 He cursed him at board, he cursed him in bed ; From the sole of his foot to the crown of his head. He cursed him in sleeping, that every night He should dream of the devil and wake in a fright. He cursed him in eating, he cursed him in drinking, He cursed him in coughing, in sneezing, in winking ; He cursed him in sitting, in standing, in lying ; He cursed him in walking, in riding, in flying ; He cursed him living, he cursed him dying ! Never was heard such a terrible curse ! But what gave rise To no little surprise, Nobody seemed one penny the worse." But we must go back a little, for the whole life of such a man as Dr. Doellinger is a matter of public interest. John Joseph Ignatius Doellinger was born at Bamberg, Bavaria, on the 28th of February, 1799. The family had long been distinguished for remarkable talents, and the father of young Doellinger was, in his day, celebrated throughout Germany as a physiologist, physician, and naturalist. His portrait and bust are frequently to be met with in the scientific cabinets of Bavaria. He was pro- fessor in the University of Bamberg at the close of the last century and the beginning of the present, and was regarded, in consequence of bis discoveries and writings, as a leading authority in various departments of natural science. The son, chiefly through his mother's influence, was destined for the study of theology, and this tendency was given to his early life. In the year 1822 he was con- secrated a priest, and appointed chaplain of Oberschein- feld, a village in Bavaria. His natural desire led him to teaching, and in the following year he received an appoint- ment as teacher in the Lyceum at Aschaffenburg, near 146 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. Frankfort-on-the-Maia In 1826 he was el of Church History and Church Law in the University Munich, where he received immediately various honorary offices, and was nominated and appointed chief librarian of the University library. Doellinger soon ted attention as professor 1« of the thorough and en- chanting style of his lectures. His method was calm, argumentative, and abounding in surpri- Once, during an I. ister ramble, it was my privil be prcent at one of his lectures on Church history, and to note some of the charactei of the man. I to lecture at eleven o'clock in the morning, and a mo crowd of laughing young priests, with shaven < black coats reaching to the ankles, indicated his lec: room. The room was capable of accommodating from three to four hundred auditors, but the more than two thirds tilled. The lecturer entered in the most quiet and deliberate manner le, and. hardly Looking at his hear< Iraly laid his notes upon the I desk before him, and commenced his lectin if talking to a -roup of little children. He was in ment, evidently, when standing before his quiet and:. of theological students, among whom one could easily idly admixture of foreigners. While hi ry low.il was .ils,, as distinct Ludl- bleat the nether end of the great hall. 1 1, Bcemi I to be talking to two or t: On a subject which was uppermost in his mind inch led to think should be the same in the - 1 the wa> in whit h his liberal the MUNICH.— DOELLINGER AND SCHELLING. 1 47 and there, one would judge him to be one of those men with whom you cannot talk ten minutes without seeing the very inmost heart, and without being warmed anew by their sympathy. If he had been lecturing on the Tower of Babel, there is not a doubt that he would have found some moment, some golden opportunity, to let fall a sentence or two in favor of bold and liberal thought, and of- the largest freedom to the conscience. This he did abun- dantly when I listened to him. He was lecturing on modern Church history, and it would have been impossible to select any one of his course in which all the peculiarities of his theological views and methods were more completely combined than in this. His theme was " English Puritanism and its Relation to the Established Church ; " but he did not hesitate to cross the channel repeatedly, and even the intervening centuries, too, in order to weigh Continental Calvinism in the Cath- olic balance, and to strive to show the unfitness of the whole system for the religious demands of the present day. But Calvinism is Protestanism, he continued, in its un- mixed state, while Lutheranism is only a corrupt form of Catholicism. The Anglican Church has never been free from vestiges of Catholicism, and these are now its saving principles. During every period of its history, men have stood up within its fold and called aloud for a return to the faith which it had abandoned. Just here Doellinger embraced his opportunity to laud Pusey and his whole ritualistic crew, yet he did it so calmly and jesuitically, that his mine of secret enthusiasm became hardly percep- tible for a moment. In consequence of the continued LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. sympathy of the Anglican Church ; linger held that i* must be nly temporary and il, and thai \ i must labor I >re the unity. I the reign of James [..the Ang] Church assum< new form. When Arminianisra came in as a the element, it acted as to the Cal for Arminianism was nothing else than a confes Catholic doctrine of justification by faith. I the most remarkable features of English Calvinism is. that it diil not perfectly control all English theol< the Ang-sbui ' ifession has controlled Luthi i. The on is. that the English mind would n<>t submit v brought within such narrow limits, and thu> 1 stands a chance of bein n controlled ' nolic theology. The Romanizing tendencies thei and constantly on the in< The sketch of Archbishop Laud and his influei terity was worthy of Pusey himself. was very fairly. ind there can be no -round omplaint at Doellii stimateof the lations of Anglican t! in ti 1 1 eminent and of French influ 1 1 almost wholly inism, yet he did n 1 of abu .11 las im| and I. Thi antism he times, the playthin but icd Catholicism stand- M UNICH.—DOELLINGER AND SC HELLING. 1 49 all unite to develop it as the times require, it will accom- plish what it used to do — control all the movements and thinking of the civilized world. Doellinger's theology is very attractive to many of the English Catholics and ritualistic Anglicans, who are said to visit him in large numbers. He is known to admire warmly both the En- glish Government and people. Those who know him personally say that he is already a " half-Englishman." Doellinger is slightly above medium height ; he stands while lecturing, contrary to the custom of many of his col- leagues, and does not wear the priest's robe. There is nothing about him that would lead you to think him a priest ; while every student before him had the tonsure, the black stockings, and the long black robe dangling about his feet. When lecturing, his pale, wrinkled, angular face sometimes lights up with an intrusive smile, a tell-tale sprite, that reveals where his real feelings and opinions lie. He now reads from his manuscript, and now speaks ex- temporaneously ; does not hurry ; seems for the most time utterly destitute of passion, and is the very personifica- tion of sincerity and simplicity. Awhile after the lecture I hea:d, I happened to pass him on the street, on the same day, and had a nearer view of him than when listening to his lecture, His thin form was slightly bent ; his face, now not kindled by the presence and light of his students, wore a sad expression, which was deepened by the lines that age had been making, but which I had not noticed before. Some of his features, especially the nose, had an emphatic Jewish cast. There was a blandness in his man- ner which could not fail to impress any one who observed 150 LIFE IN THE FATHERLANl him ; there was probably nota man who walked along the utiful Maximilian-street in Munich th re whom the most diffident school-girl would i. felt less hesitation in stoppin Ic the time A word -Mi l)r. Doellinger's home, the where this Vulcan forges his thunder-bolts. Like all Germ does not occupy a whole house, but only a do as he unquestionably is. His apartment and have the air of quiet comfort, it comfort can be (hie in the home of the celibate Here lyer- ', embroidered by some admiring one, perhaps a nun ; there you see a pot of flow :ii I. 11. S. il it in gilt letters. 1 le lias twelve large rooms, i. I <»f which : upied by his immense library. With the eption of a few Englishmen, it is believed tl [lin- ger has th( 3t private library in Eu'l He has lions of his books marked the countries whence he has derived them. "From Spain" are 1,003 volumes; "from I the number are from thinking and writing Germ 1 [e rails his books his « better half." and he spends nearly all his in-door hours before hi I writing body receh ordial, but not demonstrative just as in other days at the I \ ton. m visit the halls of the I'm. without being reminded of the philo lei tmed there in the meridian of h. I his students thufl tin- Augibui i • A emcinc I fhc Master in his MUNICH.— DOELLINGER AND SCHELLING. 1 5 I Lecture-room, about the year 1840 : " "Students thronged about the doors of the University long before the clock struck eleven, when the lecture was to commence. Old men from all parts of Europe were among them, equally eager to gain admission. There was a beadle at each door, and if any one tried to enter without a ticket of ad- mission he was bidden peremptorily to retire ; whether prince or peasant, there was no exception. " This was Schelling's express order. His fear was, that somebody would publish what he said in his lectures. He cautioned his audience in the strongest language against publishing him, as he wished to give the finishing touches of his system to the world with his own hand, lest the public might be deceived about his opinions. This careful watch- ing of his audience was almost a disease, which grew upon him after somebody once slipped into his lecture-room, and afterward published in a North German literary journal a fragment of one of his lectures on the ' Philosophy of Revelation.' After the unpardonable offense became known to Schelling, he convulsed his audience after the manner of a Jupiter Tonans, by railing in philosophic (?) madness at the indiscretion of the Tantalus, who, by the way, was a Hegelian, and said to be Hegel's own son. In the fifteen minutes that elapsed before the lecturer appeared, many languages could be heard at once. French, English, Modern Greek, Russian, Servian, Hun- garian, and other tongues were spoken in that one lect- ure-room, until the greater one appeared and silenced them all. " When Schelling entered the door there was profound 152 UFE IN THE FATHERLAND. silence. All the people arose from tl. the old man never ated themselve □ when he became seated The little gray-haired, blue ■ 1 philosopher took ;i thorough survey of hi which .saw : it he make the i ion, that in the turv a new and better era dawned upon the German unt- itles. This was the time when the llumai Philologians, first brought tl man literature home to the German mind, ami wh. • ; was in its death-agony. The German universities increased rapidly, though i and then one was COmpelli >wn with tl of a patron prince, or the decline of a I h it had been established ti in. Hut wl the R< mat; lied a firm footing, new ui imple, Marbui . . 1 . 1 lelm- lt, and Altdorf. The Thirt) Yt ira War, which all Germai ! had but little tin- Vet tl line in and it in the uni John Valentine \ ' THE UNIVERSITIES OF EUROPE. 1 57 profane than our religion ; nothing more fatal than our medicine ; nothing more unjust than our justice." As far clown as the end of the seventeenth century- Latin was the only language in which lectures were deliv- ered. Any man who ventured to use the language of the people was regarded vulgar. But men of any good degree of etymological and rhetorical acuteness could see that the German tongue was eminently adapted to the purposes of higher education. Leibnitz had long ago said that " the German was the best language in existence for the purposes of philosophical and scientific technology." Thomasius, of Halle, and Buddaeus, of Jena, made a des- perate effort to introduce the German language into the universities. They offended all the professed advocates of good-breeding and culture by lecturing in German, in spite of opposition. The result was, they carried their point. From their day down to the present, the German student has heard the professor lecture in his own vernacular. From 1690 to 1730 Halle occupied the first rank among the German universities. Each of its faculties possessed men who were representatives of the varied progress of their times. In one respect, however, it was surpassed by Gcittingen — we mean in the study of history. The eighteenth century closed and the nineteenth began amid as violent convulsions as have ever occurred in Europe. At this time of general disruption a number of the uni- versities — some of which had previously enjoyed a good share of favor — ceased to exist. We may reckon among the unfortunate number those of Helmstaedt, Rinteln, Frankfort-on-the-Oder, Duisburg, Wittenberg, Erfurt, LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. Paderborn, lingen, and Sal/Inn-. The foundation of the University of Berlin, in 1810, Prussia's offering t<» the new period of the 1 <>t' humanity in art and science. This institution was the first university established in Germany that did not form- ally embrace in its programme some distinct « confession. For this reason there has alw een the liberty -ranted to the theological pi from the beginning down to the present time. The Univei of Berlin very soon rose to high honor. In 1815 — only five years after its inundation, and when Germany Europe were settling their long i at Waterloo — Berlin had in all fifty-six pr< large a number of students as many of the oldest institu- tions in Europe. In [860 there w < hundi seventy-three prol and subordinate lei' An far back as [835 there were two thousand students attendance. Turning to the university we find I there is no real bond of unity conn< ting there is in Germany. Each facult) ency— or rather, a college working 01; unt, instead of being an organic part of a Ul ■ univei established by Francis I., and in irships. Dr. Docllingcr disclaims for tin I sh univ< well French, any title l 1 1.- holds thai th< their THE UNIVERSITIES OF EUROPE. 1 59 German confreres, "do not place themselves in the mid- . die of a subject," but take their position on one side of it, and lecture in such a way as " to produce a satisfactory effect on a mixed audience." The Scotch universities are of a more liberal cast than those of Cambridge and Oxford. Still, even here, learn- ing has declined of late. Blackie makes the broad asser- tion " that Scotland, at the present moment, is in no sense of the word a learned country ; especially in our universi- ties learning is at the lowest possible ebb." " The Ameri- can universities," says Dr. Doellinger, " are of a low grade, occupying a midway position between the German gymna- sia and the philosophical faculty of a German university." In Spain there is no institution that is worthy of the name of university. For a century her best institutions of learning have been deserted, the buildings have been lying in ruins, and the Spanish young men who desired an education have resorted to Paris or Germany. Russia has seven universities, all after the German model. The Uni- versity of Odessa was founded in 1865. Switzerland, small as she is, boasts three universities — that of Basle being the largest and strongest. Holland has also three universities, though they are not supported as they should be by the Government. Belgium has four universities, which bear the twofold character of the French and Ger- man systems of higher education. Denmark, with its two universities, has lately enjoyed the advantages of more than an ordinary class of scholarly divines. We need only refer to Miinter, Guntvig, and Martensen. The two Swedish universities of Upsala and Lund are not equal i6o LIFE IN THE FA Til: ■ . the Docllinger 1 European univ< of tl rmany, and then Lndi ity of | ciatii ;al hun. ... A- far as t ; .: Htei " may 1 VVc must make iality for his own • that it the achievements of the Germans I sph< ' Hadstonc, tl iu«. ruin- with Ruber's " 1 • ■ ■ k,and far letter than all which the ! had wril lish law, the h II tory. H THE UNIVERSITIES OF EUROPE. l6l This historical sense has crystallized itself in four Ger- mans, whose services to mankind have been, and will hereafter be, of inestimable value. The first of these is Niebuhr, who is the founder of a new mode of historical writing, and of a race for the first time capable of reading history aright. He combined the imagination of a true poet with patient and profound research, and was the first to lift the vail which Livy had drawn over Roman history, and which had been undisturbed from the Roman period clown to Niebuhr's day. The second in the quartet is Alexander von Humboldt, who knew no part of the world except as a member of the great organism — the universal cosmos. His groupings of the results of scientific investi- gation, and his combinations of them with the great truths of universal history, have thrown all similar efforts into the shade. Ritter, the third in this honor-group, was the creator of the science of the earth. Instead of confining his attention to any particular country or geographical characteristic, he combined geography, ethnography, and history into one mighty force, and showed its varied in- fluence on individual man, and on nations and their his- tory. Jacob Grimm completes the number of these rarely- endowed men. He, more than all others, has penetrated the depths of the German language, and has shown its growth through custom, legend, myth, and law. And this unwearied work of love for Grimm's own tongue is but the pioneer of labors that are to be expended upon all the great languages of man. As a peerless example of reduc- ing language to law, and of reading its mysterious philoso- phy, Grimm is scarcely inferior to Niebuhr, Humboldt, or 162 LIFE IN THE FATHERLA Ritter, in the universal ch ntative of the histori< rmany. Taking leave of Doellinger, I derive from the Bndj of the Italian Minister of Public Instruction tl unt of the present state of the universities of that kingdom Italy lias no less than twenty universities, fifteen of which are entirely supported by th< , and thro the remaining five receive a fixed annual subs .. The number of students in attendance at the uni\ that are supported solely by the S Bologna, . igliari, ; G ;o6; ma. 82 ; Modena, N - I ■ bia. I.; Palermo, 17; : Parma sari, 63; Sienna, 91 ; Turin. 1,144. The five free univi are . Camerimo, Ferrara, Macei bino ; and the amount given by the S r their - ether with that given to the fifteen unh above, is. in round numb I 0,000 (j icul- l in the fifteen universiti lusively dependent on the State, and entitled to grant d . numb, which are divided as follows :S I at present suspended); i 5 I .aw ; i 5 Medicine, 13 Mathe- matics and Physics; 10 rure and Philo Al the six university • ' P 1. and Turin, instruction is imparted by all tin fa< ulties . at Bologna, l Pavta, it is given by onlj md in tl universities 1 Model I th »m this sh nng.il the ui THE I 'XI VERS I TIES OE E UROPE. 1 63 ties are dwarfs, and that the nation is suffering seriously from the want of imparting higher instruction in fewer but more favored centers. The number of the -Italian universities is out of all proportion to that in other coun- tries where education is far more general. The kingdom of Italy, for instance, with a population of twenty-four mill- ions, has no less than sixty-one faculties ; while France, which has half again as many inhabitants, has but fifty-three faculties. Austria has thirty-four million in- habitants, and yet has only seven universities. Russia has eight, Prussia ten, and all Germany, with double the population of the kingdom of Italy, twenty-six. Belgium has four universities and Switzerland three ; in Scotland there are four universities, while England furnishes the same number to a population six or seven times greater than Scotland. Spain has ten universities (reduced from thirteen in 1845) ; and Holland, with a population of three and a half millions, has three. The expense to the Italian Government of supporting this undue number of universities is much greater than would be the case if they were reduced. But a still greater evil would be remedied by supplying a few educational centers with an adequate staff of capable professors ; for each university must, of course, provide teachers for every branch included in the lists of faculties. " Men of talent," says the Budget, " naturally prefer a wider sphere of action, and hence throng to the large university towns, leaving the smaller ones to do as well as they can with second-rate professors ; while men of European reputa- tion in the great seats of learning are, by reason of this [4 | LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. ntralization, debarred from exci the i n fl U( mich Legitimately belongs to them, and b to lecture, if not to empty, at least t< utily filk halls." A comparison between the number of matriculated Students in Italy and elsewhere places in a still light the absurdity <>f the present arrangement Durii the mical year of I 1 all th< university presented a total of ;/-<>i students, I 15.00° »" Fn 6,490 in Au ven universitit 1 1 in Spain, 7,500 in Prussia, and about 20,000 f«.r the wh •mprisi: sit:, • Hie live live univ. in Ita". imething over joo students, raising the whole nun, students to nearly s.ooo. The most richly endowed and important univ. t p, 1 Naples, Padua, Palermo, Pa Turin, with 1 rhe eight esl the ^e thos Sienna, ia, Messina, Cagliari, and 5 ot' tin- first Class constitute an annual chi 00, leaving little more than js.wcx remaining five N . with an annual endowi lt the head ..f the list, and S Btudent at th< aW) r, that the numb toe un ATTENDING THE UNIVERSITIES. 1 65 CHAPTER XI. THE UNIVERSITIES. A WORD ON ATTENDING THEM. DURING the last few years there has been a great increase in the attendance of Americans at the Ger- man universities. In many instances men in middle life have gone to Europe for this purpose, -and have spent several semesters at more than one university. Some of those men had families, and had the good sense to take them along, thus giving them all the advantages of foreign residence and travel. It would be difficult to enumerate the various measures adopted by Americans after reaching Germany in order to make their stay at a university ad- vantageous and pleasant. That disappointment has some- times been the result may be occasionally due to misman- agement, but we believe it is more frequently owing to a misconception, before going, of some of the more impor- tant practical features of the case. The most natural questions asked by an American who contemplates a course of study in a German university are these, or similar ones : — What is the expense ? Can one depend on earning sufficient money abroad to help him through a university ? How much German is it necessary to know in order to hear the lectures to advan- tage ? Which is the best university ? How long is it necessary to stay ? Should one go directly to a univer- LIFE IN T) WD. sity, preliminarily, in s ■ 1 for I question is sted by th< nurabci r> Americans have b to D ki and other pla >me month ; afterward proceedinf I As to cxi - • a university, I ition wl outlay of the than from two to three hundred thai* the tures, board, fuel, room-rent : »- cidentals I - »me Ann ending as low a sum, but the this figure. Living in some southern uni —Till en, for instan north. Still, sometimes chea] found in the north, and even in Berlin. In fena well-furnished, with fii ,1 other fees, for thirty th om and a less luxuriant I need be | nteen y .1 furnished "sky pa • 1. five th month 1 1 the ' H imburg ' ■ 1 .i < i ATTENDING THE UNIVERSITIES. 1 67 If he wish to keep up his American luxuriance, he will have to pay for it there as well as at home. For attendance at the lectures the expenses are about the same in all the universities. The prices range from three thalers to ten, according to the frequency of the lec- ture. At Jena, for six lectures a week on chemistry and physics, for the term of five months, the cost is ten thalers. For theology, philosophy, mineralogy, history, and a large class of other studies, one pays five thalers each per term. For the use of the chemical laboratory the expense is thirty thalers the term. No text-books are regarded nec- essary, but it is advisable to have some good one at hand for every course of lectures, to aid in filling out notes at leisure. Can money be made at a university town ? Not much, at least as a rule. The American who proposes to attend a German university had better bring with him enough, or the promise of it, to meet all his expenses. To give English lessons, or any other, would occupy a great amount of valuable time, and bring in return but a meager remuneration at best. Moreover, every town of any size in Germany swarms with people whose business it is to give English lessons, and they will do it for a much less cost than an American could think of accepting. A young American theological student, who spent nearly a year at Halle, obtained, by a mere accident, what seemed at first a very advantageous position as an English teacher to a Polish nobleman, but he gave it up after a while, because, as he said, it took too much of his time, leaving him scarcely any leisure, and only paying moderately. If a [68 ///•"/•: IN THE FA THERJL \ND. young man is ever justified in borrowing money f«»r improvement, it is one who is bent on excelling in his profession. His mind can generally h tly enriched Lttending a German university for a while ; and if i a wealthy man has such a son, nephew, or friend, he shi be thankful for the privilege of placing at his al a .sum sufficient for him to gratify his thirst for truth On arriving in Germany the most if one docs not design to travel, to go directly to the place where he- proposes to attend a university, and !• to hear lectures, even if he do not understand word in tea The discipline is of itself a valuable German n. Private instruction can be taken meanwhile, not only in German, but in Sanscrit. Hebrew, or any other language, dead or modern, one desii study. more than three lectures can be heard a B dl other German univei in the tent of its facilitu - I ibingen is just wd per- haps better, in philology, GSttingen in jurisprudo Halle in theology, Heidelberg in pi '• enna in medicin I nn has some fresh young th< 1 blood. But Berlin unquestionably presents the widest Btudy, and. besides, that city furnishes mi vantages for improvement 1 The American, in selecting a university, h id be ml to jud l not I the department in wh: h he is in! no univ. tntinues uniforml l that m<1 J u ATTENDING THE UNIVERSITIES. 169 never been in Church history what it was in Neander's day, nor Gottingen in law what it was in Sevigny's day, nor will Munich soon find a real successor to Liebig. If one wishes to stay two years abroad, the first one can be well spent in some other university and the last in Berlin. If he has but one year, he will do best to go directly to Berlin ; but if he wish to learn German he should keep clear of Americans and English. Many Americans divide their two years between three universities, spending the latter half of their time in Berlin. And they do not regret this course, for the universities form a sort of republican confederation, and a man can begin in one just where he left off in another. If an American wish to travel and attend a university besides, he will do well to travel after he has finished his studies, when he can have the advantage of a knowledge of the languages he may have studied in the meantime. The German student, when he travels, does not spend an average of more than three thalers a day ; but not many Americans stop there. Still, one American I knew, who was abroad fourteen months, said to me that for his pas- sage from New York and back again, for eight months, at a university, guide-books, clothing, and traveling through Germany, Italy, Switzerland, France, Holland, Belgium, England, and Scotland, he paid eleven hundred dollars in gold. But while one American can get along in this style, twenty spend three times the amount. There is such a thing as "doing" Europe entirely too cheaply. The more German one knows before leaving home the better it is for him, for he will need proportionately less \yo /.//A IN THE FATHERLAND. rime before understanding the lectures rhe student would d<> well to bring with him all his lex; text-books, and but few 1>< >«»ks besid< £ >me knowh of the character of the German universiti< indispensable before coming. The best informal sible t" the American is contained in I>r. i linson's articles on the subject in the " Bibli tory," ( 1 831-1834,) in later numbers of the " Biblioth Sacra;" Schafl 'Germany — its Universities, Tl and Religion;" Matthew Arnold's ** Hij Universities of Germany ;" and I - in the North of Germany." Howitt's "Student Life in many good things. Mayhew's reflections, in bock on Germany, are very one-sided, and not worth; the author of " London Labor ami the 1 The academic year at the uni\ »ut the middle of October, and cl »ut the middle There are 1 i at Chi and Whil The German Prof< : «dly in the extreme, ever ready t" iod ad\ . make the welcome more cordial : introduction. In the institution such letters an ty, but not in Germai true love "t knowledge hides a multitude ..1 sins lately said t.. an American .student, who him ailing with. .ut presenting he w »ne An omc without on : I them an uni. ATTENDING THE UNIVERSITIES. Ijl On arriving at the university town, the first thing to be done is the finding of a proper boarding-place. This will need care, and hence it is well to retain lodgings in a hotel until satisfactory apartments are secured elsewhere. A student usually hires two rooms, a study and a bed- chamber. These are likely to be quite small. They are furnished by the landlord, who requires monthly payment for rent and service. He furnishes his boarders with the morning meal — coffee and biscuit, served in each room, when its occupant pulls his bell. The dinner and tea are usually taken at a restaurant or hotel. But the landlord holds himself ready to furnish both these meals, if ordered by his guests. An early opportunity should be seized to report at the police head-quarters one's presence in a uni- versity town, and the purpose of residence. All German students are expected to bring with them certificates of passage through the gymnasium, and fitness in attainment to attend the university. No examination is made. That is supposed to have occurred, and the sat- isfactory proof to be in the applicant's pocket. The American, however, need not bring any thing in testimony of scholarship. His traditions and usages are so different that the good Germans regard him as a law to himself. On the given day, at the commencement of the semester, he should matriculate. He need not designate his lectur- ers at first, unless he has already determined upon them. The universities vary in expense and usage. Expenses in the south are much lower than in the north. " At Tubingen," so writes Professor C. C. Bragdon, " the ma- triculation fee is $4 ; incidentals, fifty cents. For a lect- 8* i 7 2 LIFE IN THE 1 . 1 THERJL \ND. . oming two or three times per week, the fee is %\ io for the semestk , Ocl ; that five or six tinie> per Week, $2 tO J In the medical department the rates are higher. Clinical . with practice in the hospital and about town, from me time as above Al in progress for one or two weeks, the profi around a paper which the number of lectures week- ly and their price. All sign wh( take the course, and b) D< ember ist the beadle must I You may attend lectui r after . - between the pi and The her enters the room ten minul the bell struck the hour, b a< ^ wnCM the time is up all rise as h< and passes out i will be sin prised at the extensive quotati ors of i - and books bearing upoi This gives an idea of the amount the right stamp must \ given "ii Sundays, not only on theology, but a Other secular scieiuc III. BOOKS-WRITING, MAKING, AND SELLING. Illi- morttll vivnnt : M<- mti'il Itqtinnttir. Still .•>'■ y..r to />..%.• [drntj Our It,' than OUT Infa In Hi" comer of < LITERAR Y PROD UC TI VENESS. 1 7$ CHAPTER I. LITERARY PRODUCTIVENESS. PECULIARITIES. n^HE increase of books in Germany is a permanent -A- marvel to every foreigner. Previously to 1814 the annual issue was only about two thousand volumes, but now it exceeds ten thousand, and each year shows an ad- vance on its predecessor. The stages of growth down to 1834 were as follows : In 18 14 there were published 2529 works; in 1816,3197; in 1822,4288; in 1827, 5108; in 1830,5926; in 1831, 5508; in 1832, 6122; in 1833, 5653; in 1834, 6074, Menzel said, many a year ago, that "in Germany alone, according to a moderate calculation, ten millions of volumes are annually printed. As the cata- logue of every Leipzig half-yearly book contains the names of more than a thousand German authors, we may com- pute that at the present moment there are living in Ger- many about fifty thousand men who have written one or more books. Should that number increase at the same rate that it has hitherto done, the time will soon come when a catalogue of ancient and modern German authors will contain more names than there are living readers." A wonderful combination of qualities is needed for this great annual supply of literature from the German press. Patience ! I have never seen such patience as that of the real German author. While his volume is in hand it be- comes to him his planet, his home. Nothing that can /.///■ IN THE FATHERLAND. enrich it escapes him. H k with all the fondl nal attachment. It is alu the youngest member of his household, and must he tre with nsideration b) 1 man author never lets his r* ty. Hence it is found a rule, that the last pa| .til the provokii and deliberation <»f the first. There is more dii and real point ; hut of impetuosity hi-- I guilty. The way in which he consults I l)i»,iks is a marvel to us unresting A I him go int.. a library immediately after sipping his morning cup ol pend the entir< ining authorities with as much ind qui. the shadow of the sun never changed on the dial. N believe it docs <>n his. Three hundred thousand \ in sight at once never bewilder hi walked a steamer's bridge with m< - he looked out upon the v. waters, or ki to do. than do«.s the German author as he sits an amid the world of 1 ks in the lil Munich. Berlin, or St. Petersburg. II ntent to upturn n k for a single needle. Meander's spei an entire day on top of his hook-case, feasting on tl. Fathers," hut in delightful ignorance ^i any p ! setting his sister II U hen more than ha • his u : of his fellow t ountT) men wl. more til the matter thai ante the dai than an Up) in a whole <■ h. LITERARY PRODUCTIVENESS. 1 77 The more one becomes acquainted with the habits of the German 'author the more decided becomes the convic- tion of his real and imperturbable honesty. He knows his public, and that it will put up with no nonsense from him ; and, what is better, he knows himself, and that he would not be able, for a disturbed conscience, to calmly pull up his smoke through his cherry-stem or face his publisher any day if he had failed to put into his manuscript the best stuff that his brain and the respectable libraries could furnish. No slovenliness here. Where have I not met the German author, pencil in hand, trying to get the whole truth into his pages ? Delving day after day in the oldest and richest libraries of Germany ; sitting on broken columns in the Palace of the Caesars in Rome trying to decipher the inscriptions of the time of Horace ; working at the Cufic letters on the Tayloon Mosque, in Cairo ; luxuriating, at Karnak and Philas, in his study of the plans of the marvelous temples ; counting the steps of Mars' Hill, cut out of solid rock, up which the Areopagites and the great teacher, Paul, ascended; jumping from one housetop to another of Damascus, to note in his own book the celebrated inscription to the triumph of Christianity which even Moslem hate has not dared to erase or deface ; sitting beside Virgil's grave at Naples, testing the verdict of the sw T eet tradition — and all to tell dear Germany some- thing it never knew or never knew so well. But what I admire most in German authors is their un- compromising pluck. Talk about Metz, Strasbourg, and Sedan ! Never did Uhlan brave more than do these quiet workers with the quill — I mean the real goose qtrill ; for 178 LIFE IX THE FATHERLAND. you may as well try 10 make the German book-writer think that smoking is an impediment to authorship*as that any respectable bonk can be, or ought to be, written with pen of steel <>r gold. Of course, there are those who b adopted these innovations; but they are mostly of the younger class, mere parvenus, as yet, in the charmed circle. It I should be allowed to wake up from my resting-place five hundred years from this hot July morning, and over the shoulder of one of the ten Herren I': history in Berlin University, as he prepares his manus on the German Conquest of France, away back in 1 and [871, and writes a letter to his Leipzig publisher, I should likely find him writing with his ink-speckled quill, and, instead of using note-paper and envelope for his letter, employing a great sheet of blue paper, one K which, after the manner ol his am the pui | of an envelope, which must be sealed with the bothersome red wax and .stamped with the old family seaL Ybur German author is never intimidated by the n. nitude of his subject. lie has his idea, and you well tell him that father Rhine OUght t<> 'the French as to say any thing that could tend to diminish his confidence in his project He knows what his th< and he thinks it is nobody's business but his and his family's. 1 >■> nol make any reflection on his t wisli 1 1 . continue on friendly terms brilliant articles, " in the Augsburg •• Al meine Zeitung," on " 1 he Man in the M< doubt the) arealread) matured into a duodecimo I should not be st. u lied to he.u ..( BOmC one writing on tin " \\ .-man LI TERAR Y PROD UC TI V EN ESS. 1 79 in the Moon." But such odd and plucky subjects stare you in the face in any German bookstore. The German will venture on any theme. No Monte Rosa or Matter- horn dispirits him ! He goes diligently to working up a volume on any science, art, people — dead, living, to be, or not to be — arming himself with a very arsenal of authori- ties, sparing neither sweat nor scanty purse, plodding on with the grand certainty of fate toward the elaboration of such a thought as would take two generations of authors with us to summon confidence enough to venture a volume upon. He knows he has to face a world of critics, men of every type of savage nature, who furnish the horns, hoofs, and teeth for the scores of critical serials, and hold them- selves ready to masticate any new comer into the domain of authorship. But do not waste your sympathy on him ; for not a whit does he care — no more than did old Sam. Johnson for the carpers at his dictionary. He does not take the time to read the critiques on him. All he knows is what the frau or his friends have a mind to reveal. He is too busy thinking about his next volume. This sublime indifference to the oracular critics is worthy any body's ad- miration. If it depended on him, the whole set would be hanged as high as Haman — that is, if he could appropriate to those gentry time enough to decide on their destiny. The German author ventures out early, and the deeper his soundings the better. Tholuck's maiden effort was in Latin, and on Sufism — or, as it read in the bibliographies, " Sufismus sive Theosophia Persarum pantheistica quam e MSS. bibliotheca Regise Berolinensis, Persicis, Arabicis, Turcicis, emit et illustravit." And all this from a con- I So LIFE IN THE FATHERLANi sumptive stripling of twenty-two! Th the work nevei i edition. h^-n Tholuck has grown into m lest and simp! a preference for his own tongue When I see tl ipts at authorship in Germany, I am reminded of the f a child to w.ilk. He tumbles down now then, and gets bruises numberless; but is his feet again, and in due time can walk and run with others. The German author tries his 1- for he knows that he must fall about SO often anyhow, whether he b on or late. By and by he wrings his i tion from the critics, and during the n his life CUpies a position of honor in the guild. II worthy member, and is pushing out with confidence his tly octavo every two years, with brochures and duo imos to give variety to the interval his Amei brother has blocked out his first undertaking ' 'her. three hund: published at the : fortnight Tlu-n he keeps at hi^ oar with astonishing pertinacity. I the working with his pen up into th< Humboldt until squarely up to ninety, indicat rule Von Raumer and Boeckh and Rank of the freshnes nd confiden to tl rhey do not their d happen what will. A more beautiful and than . :th wh infirm in nished work I ind, h^ LITERAR Y PROD UCTIVENESS. 1 8 1 Hamilton, who died with a dozen untouched volumes in his head, tell you what book they are next going to begin, what old one they are pledged to enlarge into a new edition, what literary journey they are projecting for the inspection of libraries or the examination of localities. Like Schleiermacher, they declare eternal hostility to old age. And when they die, it is in just the right place, amid plans, some nearly completed, some perhaps just begun. They never commit the mistake of many a sane and capable man with us, no matter about his years, of waiting for death to come. They work, and suffer death to take his own time. And who would question their wisdom ? i.j j j. rx in \xd. CHAP! l.k II. in*. * ^ plicable than the 1 low do th lira wril ment d<> th< their Amei luce but a tith it number ? I . in many w irticulai i then, his but ha n up in truth is, th< I i much don< n the volume ■ done ■ of tl 1 ■ ■ • SECRETS OF GERMAN AUTHORSHIP. 1 83 The German knows, as no one else, how to subsidize others into his service, thereby saving a vast amount of time and purely mechanical labor. Almost invariably he has an amanuensis, and frequently more than one, to whom he dictates, or gives in pretty full outline what he proposes to embalm in print. Bunsen — who, despite his long residence in England and identification with English life, never forgot his German method of authorship — used to have half-a-dozen secretaries at work for him. All he did was to give them the general directions, and they thus multiplied his years. Moreover, he had scholars at work for him who lived in various parts of the country. He told them what points he wanted to fortify, what theses they must elaborate ; and they did it gladly — for, poor, half-starved fellows, they knew that Bunsen could pay them well for their toil. Many of the more solid works in Ger- man literature are produced by the professors in the uni- versities. These men, almost to a unit, have the services of a promising student (or two) of literary taste, who spends his spare hours in searching up authorities, conducting correspondence, getting the master's own hieroglyphics into shape for the printer, and examining libraries far and near for information to pack into the volume in hand. While the real author is responsible for every word that goes out under his own name, and can justly claim the parentage of the whole idea, and plan, and scope of the work, he is spared much of the drudgery incident to all book-making which is not the immediate fruit of imagi- nation. Where history is to be ransacked, facts to be grouped, and matters of pure detail to be gleaned from /.// / THE! :han the until • rhe real writer is | the model, and yet never himself uses th< the but tuk. ular part of th< from exhaustion. 1 plained, that while in sculpture all the m< might he turned over to ot !. the real art: I ':>ut hii: touch his can\ The influei m thes menl I ierman authorship is culation. Tholuck ha cal students workii him ilnrii Hall than his own family. 1 i ti<>n to them ; at other tim< ■ i them I prep all musl hum': C . F. H i aulli SECRETS OF GERMAN AUTHORSHIP. 185 his appointment to a full professorship in Bonn University- was ample proof that he belonged in the front rank of the younger group of evangelical theologians. But that same Held did all that could be done by any other than the real author, on Tholuck's " Akademisches Leben des sie- benzehnten Jahrhunderts." The work was made up largely of facts which could be gathered only from the university records of the period in question, and Held corresponded with all the librarians of the German and extra-German universities, secured copies of protocols, and put the matter in order. The brain that guided him did little more than suggest the drift; and consummate the generalizations. Jacobi, the author of a Church History* and now Professor of Church History in Halle, was trained in the same way by Neander, who, indeed, lived to see the young man well started, and wrote a commendatory intro- duction to his first attempt at authorship. Another of Neander's young helpers was the present highest Ger- man authority on ecclesiastical art — Professor Piper, of Berlin, really the creator of the science of monumental theology. Further, the German author takes care to have social refreshment. Without this he would soon fall amid his gigantic literary plans. He cultivates clubbable qualities, and has his circle of friends, with whom he spends his evenings and the afternoons of festive days. He seldom works with his pen at night, and generally not after din- ner. He crowds his labors into the morning hours, and where he leaves any thing for the afternoon, it is light matter — the trimming up of the grand trunk he had felled LIFE IN THE FATHERLANl omparing authorities, and such i his labor he can do without v. r-dinner smoke But f<»r dictati arnright authorship, he commonly tak- n ; and ur must be your demand if y< mhimthen. He often has a placard on his it this time, all ti on his time n< I nter unless their busi- . important, and they arc willing to 1 lis rule is. to spend all his it li his family <>r literary He grand diner-out; knows how to ) two h table, and four or six hours in di it. lie plays all manner with his child! and what not i«>r then. the ling-room, and drops r the " \ schrif t ; " make ion with his wd child i neighboring village, and wakes up i fifty brand-new through his volume, halt playin and when h< 1 a jounu him ti, it\. nor does he shiver I the nil; ,: high, his brain ful- fill his publi He SECRETS OF GERMAN AUTHORSHIP. 187 his friends as so much lost time. The result was that he lost flesh, spirits, and the indispensable pluck for new undertakings. The German, on the other hand, knows the high science of compressing as much work as possible into his mornings, and as much play as possible into his afternoons and evenings. The German author, moreover, owes a large degree of his productiveness to his simple diet and regular hours for sleep and rising. He rises early, and never touches any work until he has taken a cup of coffee and a biscuit. He never puts his brain and eyes into harness, and under spur and whip, without a little food to start with. At ten he takes a light lunch, such as a sandwich of bread and cheese, and goes to work again, and sticks to it until about one o'clock. Then it is all over for that day. He has performed an immense amount of literary work. Six solid hours, and not one minute lost in painful digestion of ham and eggs, beefsteak, hot rolls, and blankety buck- wheat cakes. As for hot bread, he never saw any, in all probability ; for all the bread comes from the baker's, and is served cold twice a day. If by any oversight he should eat a couple of steaming soda-biscuits, it would cost him a whole day's work ; for he never could bring himself to the belief that he has the capacity to digest hot bread. He would moan and smoke, and declare, in spite of the papers, that the French are marching straight for Berlin. The dinner is plain but plentiful ; the supper is light, with black bread as the staple. With the fiber and strength from one day's food he does the work of the next ; hence digestion gives him no trouble or thought. He no more LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. thinks ol his stomach than of Barl course, he smokes leal; but even this. I b noticed, he pushes off largely int<» the play-hours of the afterna The German author, finally, having his materials at hand for preparii work. I Fatherland is the paradise of great libi The m can have on his desk the Volume which, of all Otl IS in a- -hort a time as it requin Scribner or Westermann \ ler which will require five mortal weeks at least to have tilled. immense librari >wth of centuries, whi can consult at will. Wh librarj another, close at hand. does. An Anieri sometim a compelle jult lil to which the • few blocks from his hou l ili.st m the nr. i from authorship in his favorite fields. Mr. M found, throughout his hi raphy, that he could L with hut little :i t«» him-, awav from the d\kes and vellum-bountl Mi ; tt t.-lls ns that only through I the Spanish Government, and the kin i . is enabled taint) the relations of th man, 1 1 h, and I that tl ; the SECRETS OF GERMAN AUTHORSHIP. 189 What does America not owe to Washington Irving's residence in Spain, Hawthorne's consulate in Liverpool, Mr. Thayer's stay in Vienna and Trieste, and Mr. Per- kins' residence in Florence ? One needs personal con- tact with the very localities that are embraced within the scope of his undertaking. Schiller, it must be confessed, could write his " William Tell " without ever seeing any of the glories of Lake Lucerne ; but then his imagination was unrivaled. Moreover, he had all the advantage, as Mr. Lewes tells us^ of the notes of Goethe, who lazed away many an ambrosial hour within the shadows of the Righi and Mount Pilate. To give an idea of the wealth of literature at the dis- posal of the author in Germany we present a t TABLE OF CHIEF GERMAN LIBRARIES. Volumes. Manuscripts. Royal Library of Munich 800,000 22,000 " " Berlin 600,000 14,000 Imperial Library of Vienna 400,000 16,000 Royal Library of Dresden 300,000 2,800 Stuttgart 300,000 3,600 Ducal Library of Darmstadt 200,000 3,000 Wolfenbuttel 200,000 6,000 Gotha 160,000 2,000 Weimar 143,000 2,000 University Library of Gottingen 350,000 5 ; ooo Breslau 300,000 2,500 Tubingen 200,000 2,000 Leipzig 170,000 1,500 Heidelberg 150,000 847 Erlangen. 120,000 1,000 Bonn 120,000 1,000 190 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND, CHAPTER III. THl ^npHE German publishing business, not less tl -L authorship, differs very materially from that Unil The number of publisl Schulz's Director) I >r the German Book Trade f<-r i contains the names and addn I 4,230 firm whom are publishers. I h to a few large cities, can be found in town throughout the empire. It is not 1 that a book shall hear the imprinl in order to pass into public but tha should be worthy of approval. The- question i Is it a Brockhaus or a Perth k? but, Wl n it? And it is but just to the critical journals that it rare for a work bation because of the house whirl'. it. The I number of publishers in Germany is du to the fai t thai J is no! publish a numbei :na11 d < finds it ly in hi and then in 01 brethren. If he 1 in brii i in ru*s guild 1 mall ex] ol manufai luring THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOKS. 191 is due to three causes. First, the cost of printing mate- rials and compositors' work is low. It is now becoming common for publishers in Great Britain, France, Russia, other parts of Europe, and sometimes of the United States, to avail themselves of the cheap German rates for having such works printed as do not require the author's inspection of proof-sheets. The Leipzig rates of printing are from twenty-five to forty per cent, cheaper than those of Paris or London. But the printing of an English work in any part of Germany is never advisable. I have had two experiments in this matter, and each of the books required the examination of at least five proofs where but one would have been needed if the compositors had been English or American. A friend of mine who had placed a fine work of art in the hands of a Leipzig printer, had more than one season of shedding tears as he found that the compositors had made fearful havoc with his copy, and had then printed all the blunders in a whole edition of the rich paper that had been manufactured especially for his work. Second, the books are not bound, but simply folded and stitched, with paper covers. The custom of issuing books unbound is common to all the continental countries, and is really a great popular advantage ; for many persons are able to buy an unbound book who, otherwise, could not have the work at all, and all other purchasers can consult their own taste as to style. The binding of books not being done by the publisher, it has become an independent and important branch of business. The buyer of books has his own binder as much as his own bookseller. The LI II- IN THE FATHERLAND. if •>' '-"" „ Km. re- united State '7" ,,„,,,. a „d Matthews, the Turn, ,„,,,. Tbehabu "> „„ lvll , II ks.andtop.Uth 2 Lhing, and stiff pape, bound costs ■ half Turkey costs a, tfortycents. l^ehadd" m08 bound beantifuUy by Geffken. .n p«*» gold. Chans' t , in Frankfort, thirty bound voluro, , their shelves, but njon *ke than otherwise 1 Likes to buy one with ft enjoyment in taking his he wants it preps rhim.and, ho« i. progr, »y how '"■ One result of the binding of b publisher is the I * m Hbrariea I not! they. pi »*"* boundiuH.orsoche.plj inahund, 7 THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOKS. 1 93 of the binding, the book itself is, if it has to pay the author a copyright, dearer in Germany than in America. Schaff's "Church History" is dearer in Leipzig than as Scribner offers it, binding taken into consideration. I believe that the average German prices on all copyright books are, at the lowest calculation, thirty per cent, higher than in America. The publisher unquestionably gets a higher percentage, for the cost of manufacturing a book in Ger- many is not over two thirds what it is in New York or Boston. But then the sales are smaller, and the Ameri- can publisher makes more in the long run. His risks, however, are greater. The German publisher treads carefully. Still, no country can equal Germany in the low price of all books on which no copyright is paid. For instance, you can buy Schiller complete now for a thaler, and Goethe for three. I have a superior edition of Goethe in six large octavo volumes, with steel plates and half morocco bind- ing, that cost only twelve florins, or $4 80 gold. Since the copyright of these two German classics has expired, a number of publishers have devised plans for getting the run of the trade. But J. G. Cotta, of Stuttgart — the house which held the exclusive right, and the publisher of the Augsburg " Allgemeine Zeitung" — appears to have un- derbidden all his rivals, and his several editions of these authors are both the cheapest and best. The following are the rates, in gold, at which some of the principal litterateurs are sold, noted down during occa- sional loiterings, or gleaned from the profuse advertise- ments : Schiller's complete works, in one volume, with por- LIFE IS trait steel M 80 ; unbound, for l nvolum ^ 0i his 1 1 dram thirl j, in muslin, %\ - ■ : THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOKS. 195 The ideal first edition, except in fiction, is only a good in- tention. Every book, to be permanently valuable, should be a growth ; and if the first edition has not vitality to survive its birth, the book deserves to die. But if a thousand copies are sold, it merits again the author's revision, and a re-ap- pearance before the public with all the improvement derived from new studies and the judgment of the critics. It has been to me a matter of interest to place the first edition of a valuable German work beside the last and mark the wonderful development. It is like contrasting the grown man with his little self in baby-frocks. I have beside me a little work — now very rare — Hagenbach's " Uebersicht der Dogmengeschichte," published when its author was a young professor in Basle. But who would recognize, in the present two ponderous volumes, the work of the same hand, the manhood of that of which the thin brocliure was the infancy ? Had stereotyping been the rule, that work, like hundreds of others possessing great value, would never have ripened into its present golden maturity. Stereotyping precludes the expression of a change of view, embalms errors, frustrates the purposes of criticism by excluding its suggestions, destroys an author's permanent interest in his work, and renders null his new researches in the same department. ■ This can be clone if the plates are canceled ; but how many publishers are willing to issue improved editions at the expense of a new set of plates ? The absence of stereotyping in all the European coun- tries limits each contract between publisher and author to the single edition. For a second edition a new contract is made, and so with each in future. 9* LIFE IN \ND. CIIAI'l ER IV. ' | "N 1 K manm 1 i meth tmmuni their . and their all to make the public bu publisher to undcrral any way th ■ in th fills his the I the ■ \Y tin inn; USAGES OF THE GERMAN BOOK-TRADE. 1 97 brought to the knowledge of the buying public. This result is reached, in great measure, by the following pe- culiar means. Your bookseller, knowing well your taste, sends you by a messenger every few days, generally Sat- urdays, one or more books, which you are expected to examine briefly. If you choose to buy one or more of them you simply retain them, but otherwise you cause no offense by returning them. They are not expected to be retained for inspection more than a fortnight. There are two large booksellers in Bremen, Messrs. Mtiller and Kuhtmann, who supplied me every week with valuable new theological books, which I returned in two weeks by the same messengers who had delivered them. Of course, I kept one now and then, checking these on the bills which always came with the books, and which I always sent back. In Frankfort similar kindness was shown by the dealers. This was no special favor to me, but a usage with the booksellers. The clerks always kept a register of all the books thus sent out. Many a time I lost track of a book, thinking I had sent it home. But after a long time the presentation of the bill by the same mes- senger who brought the books set me to seeking, and finding, and paying. The leaves must not be cut, for this would require you to retain the book. A bookseller has a large circle of customers whom he thus supplies at reg- ular intervals with the latest issues from the press. If a customer wishes to examine any work in print, and on sale by its publisher, he need only inquire for it at his bookseller's, and, if not on hand, a copy will be ordered "for inspection." In such cases it is generally assumed /.// \THEK that th it if the return * It ■ * h:m the one H :rit-i»« 1, k m intru- sion tu be consult* Id. When th< le by the retailers to I the k1 settlenx ■ the .vr and th< ■ Id. At the 1 the int to him. 1 ommunicate with the publi comi but sends li — ." the l USAGES OF THE GERMAN BOOK-TRADE. 1 99 directions ; and by the time its work is done it is covered with all possible records, illegible to any but such experts as are known only to the counting-room of a German book- store. I once ordered through a Frankfort dealer a copy of Low's "Annual Catalogue" for a certain year. Of course, the order was not sent to England directly, but first to Leipzig, to the commissioner. It came back in about five weeks, marked, " Can't be fished up." " These little slips," says Mr. F. Leypoldt, our best American bibliographer, " be they many or few, are sent by mail to the commission house by all its constituents, and are by it deposited in the Booksellers' Exchange post- office, where they are sorted and re-delivered to the com- mission houses, four times daily. On lively days, from fifty to sixty thousand slips, letters, circulars, or other written or printed communications, pass through this department of the Booksellers' Exchange, and the annual delivery exceeds ten millions of documents. This im- mense service is done with wonderful accuracy, and abso- lutely without charge, the expense being borne by the Exchange Association for the benefit of the whole trade. . . . The relation of the commission house to its constitu- ents, in the capacity of banker, is exactly like that of any banker. Interest is allowed or charged on daily balances, as the case may be, the charge being generally one per cent, per annum more than the allowance. A small bank- er's commission is also charged, and the extent of credit, if any is allowed, is purely a matter of personal agreement. As a forwarder, the commission house receives an annual (very moderate) fixed salary, gauged by the probable Li ■ ■ ind. It t: I tl r, mail at tl the I tion deli\ l mm, USAGES OF THE GERM AX BOOK-TRADE. 201 The relations between the German publisher and his authors are most cordial. London and New York have the advantage over Leipzig in this respect, for while the last city absorbs a large share of the publishing interests of Germany, the authors are scattered all over the coun- try, and often the author and his publisher never meet. The authors' circles cannot be so great, accordingly, as those of London in our day, or even of the time when Byron, in his mock epistle to Dr. Palidori, makes Murray say :: — " The room's so full of wits and bards, Crabbes, Campbells, Crokers, Freres, and Wards, And others, neither bards nor wits ; My humble tenement admits, All persons in the dress of gent, From Mr. Hammond to Dog Dent. A party dines with me to-day, All clever men who make their way ; Crabbe, Malcolm, Hamilton, and Chantry, Are all partakers of my pantry. My room's so full — we've Gifford here, Reading MS. with Hookham Frere, Pronouncing on the nouns and particles Of some of our forthcoming articles." Of the beautiful friendships existing between German publishers and their authors ample witness is borne by the accounts of the evenings passed at the delightful home of the elder Perthes, to whose wife, the daughter of "The Wandsbeck Messenger," the meetings owed much of their wealth of taste, gentleness, and cheerful- ness. No publishers exceed those of Germany in the lib- erality of their terms, and the pains they take to cultivate intimate social relations with their authors. I have never 1.1! I. IX THE FATHERLAND. ■ l bout, who, I up the rily made another, which 1 when the n , c thick not of the guild to i anydifl storm may have its lulls now and then, but they he! tie il in barely ; • them, while fairly blinded by the flaky cloud. P st.. re wind •k or two, if not an armfi nines. And what pas measured by the Amei hical longevity. We call l i, j s really six monl new book in German) must veal you eat in the Con tin but a : rl by the last train. Its ink and its paper is hardly drier than \ THE PARADISE OF BOOKS. 203 CHAPTER V. THE PARADISE OF BOOKS. LEIPZIG is the center of the world's book trade. All 4 its streets give evidence of the reign of books. It was an easy thing to specify and compliment the book- stores of classic days, but it would require poets of more wisdom and patience than Martial to individualize those of Leipzig as that author could easily deal with those of old Rome : " You see a shop with titled posts, And read whate'er Parnassus boasts. Thence summon me, nor ask the dweller : Honest Actretus is the seller. From out the first or second nest He'll hand me, rais'd in purple vest. Five humble tenpences the price, A bard so noted and so nice." Some streets are almost entirely devoted to the business, which is so interwoven with the very life of all the people that to take out of the city all the inhabitants connected in some way with the manufacture of books would amount to a depopulation. But a stranger is disappointed at the comparative absence of books in a city where he expects to see them on every hand. The habit there, as every- where in Germany, is to do business largely by corre- spondence, and but little stress is laid upon the exhibition of books. I was amazed, when taking a letter of intro- duction to a publishing firm, to find the business con- ducted in a quiet little counting-room, where the members :n the few There : the • ■ and the requisite in G The ■ time I mak ■ iwn th ■ 2,1 IJ THE PARADISE OF BOOKS. 205 9,095 issues in Germany, 1,582 appeared in Leipzig and 1,299 m Berlin. Attempts are now being made to increase the facilities of the book-trade in Berlin, where the book- sellers' combination of that city are proposing to establish an exchange, which shall answer all the financial and social wants of the trade. It will contain, for the various gatherings, a large hall, which may from time to time be used as a place of exhibition for books and works of art ; a library, and a restaurant, which will be adapted to the wants of clerks as well as masters ; and apartments for the diversified branches of the book business. It is not likely, however, this relation will ever be changed. The predominance of Leipzig in the book-trade dates from 1765, when, through the exertions of Nicolai, Reich, and others, the publishers transferred thither from Frankfort-on-the-Main their central operations. In that place the trade was carried on in the most primitive method imaginable, for the publishers simply met and ex- changed their publications, and returned to their homes with their new wares, looking for their profits to their success in selling the same. On the removal of the center to Leipzig the German Booksellers' Association was organ- ized, and though it had to contend with much opposition, it strengthened with time, and became the basis, in 1825, of the present Exchange Union of German Booksellers. At first the number of members was one hundred and twenty-five, but it now exceeds one thousand. The Union erected, in 1836, a magnificent building for business purposes — The German Booksellers' Exchange. It is the center of the world's literature. To show the 2o6 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. m by which the Germ .duct their trad ive the followu nstitutii the ex( hange, from the pen of Mr. Leypoldt : nstitution of the Booksellei vides for the common debate on subje J in- st, and for a common metl Membership is acquired b ular li> < business in any branch of the trade ; by the payment an initiation tec and annual dues ; by dep the cir- cular of the firm, personally signed by the members tl. of; and by a written pledge to conform to the rul t<» submit to the judgment of the Committer titration ises of dispute with any member of the ation <»r fraternity. The government isvestedin a I orsand standing committees, from whom appeal lies to the Genera] Meeting held each spring. The i hears the report of the president, el© mittees, passes upon the bud§ the next fina and adopts rul< n the action of the fraternity in their intercourse with one another. The executb immitted to the Hoard of l committees, whose members are jointly responsi unconstitutional act of such board or commit rid indi- vidually responsible for their j . acts in of the constitution or rules of the General Me. I - Btanding committees are : On Finance and on Building ; on 1 tion. 1 members going out annually. The tun. first i oinmitte lire no n. THE PARADISE OF BOOKS. 207 " The Committee on Arbitration acts as a commercial tribunal between members, who are pledged to obey its subpoena, the object being to obviate litigation before courts of law between members. Notice of differences is sent to the chairman in writing, specifying briefly, yet lucidly, the points at issue. The chairman notifies the party accused, orders a meeting of the committee, and cites both parties to appear. The case is then argued, and every member of the committee has the right to propose methods of compromise. Minutes are kept by the secretary, but on demand of either litigant they must be kept by a sworn notary public. The results of the arguments on compromise are kept in " Compromise Minutes," signed by the chairman and secretary, or notary, if one has been employed. Certified copies of the "' Compromise Minutes" may be demanded by either party. No charge is made for the services of this committee, except for actual dis- bursements. The work of this committee has been of great benefit to the fraternity in keeping their quarrels in the family, in deciding all questions by the common-sense views of experts, and in gradually establishing a code of fair dealing which has given a high tone to the morality of the trade, besides saving court costs. " The official organ of the association is the Borsen- blatt, or Exchange Paper, which is published under the superintendence of the Board of Directors, who appoint a managing editor, furnish all official matter for publication, determine the rates to be charged for advertising, and exercise a general control of the financial and editorial management. The Borsenblatt is the recognized Trade 208 / in-: ix THE /'. i Tin. /:/.. \nd. ' h which the ti J not « in pi u iably u ill men the fraternity in seeking <>r furn * • »rial bibliographical pai dium <t books in preparation <»r in the j • Ik: illy recorded publicat until I in sen nahled to pi in- formation as to title. \t ; ami the result is a th in merit tl and exercising a highly 1>< education of the b liographical pi »n. • The "i the a building and Inventory, tl hand Its in on i : aihn THE PARADISE OF BOOKS. 209 deposited all documents concerning the actions of the gen- eral meetings of the directors and committees, and the signed circulars and pledges of members, together with every thing connected with the history of the fraternity."* In connection with the Exchange, and really forming a part of it, are two special institutions. One of them is the school for booksellers' apprentices, where young men pro- pose to pass through a scientific curriculum in preparation for the book business. The three men who have done the greatest service for the school, and whose influence will be felt through it upon the literature of Germany for all time to come, are Friedrich Fleischer, Paul Mobius, and Dr. Brautigam. The other feature of the Exchange is the Order Insti- tution, through which all orders to and for the publishers must pass. Every Leipzig publisher commits a certain routine portion of his correspondence to this institution, and receives from it three or four times every day the business papers designed for him. The number of orders passing daily through this institution is about seventy-five thousand. " The immense parcel business," says Mr. Ley- poldt, " is done by porters of the commission houses, who deliver and receive several millions of parcels annually, with such accuracy that the loss of a parcel in Leipzig is almost an unheard-of thing. In the event of such an oc- currence, the whole machinery of the Exchange Associa- tion is set in motion to find the lost article, and it is sure to be found in a very few days. It has generally been de- monstrated that the delivery had been correctly made, but * "Weekly Trade Circular," February, 1872. 2IO I. in: IX THE FATHER!. AS: that the of his tituenl ■ tually li This i intclli. md extreme faithfulne har- 1 >:- . sixteen millions of pai through the Lei] ind in quantity \\ :ly incn The Excfa vhere the I rmany h<»lil their annual tion, dui It formerly th I in of the 1 met at the fair, I dif- - ; but these matl by the commis do than ex fnr th> ent three hundred an sellers from various \ made through their commissionei a half millions <>f thalers I ■ • . elude their annual in. inent, where, they are qu Rhenish \\ with the litei 1 the groat i I instituti THE PARADISE OF BOOKS. 211 of Germany appear there. There are about thirty-five music stores and publishing houses, at the head of which stands the celebrated firm of Breitkopf and Hartel. This house has been in existence one hundred and sixty years. It issues twelve thousand productions in its musical depart- ment alone, and employs three hundred men. The music engraving establishment of Roder produces annually, by its one hundred and forty artisans, twenty-four thousand plates of notes, uses thirty-nine thousand pounds of metal, and prints four million sheets of music. Leipzig being the heart of the book-trade, book-bind- ing likewise forms an important branch of business. It was formerly the habit of the booksellers there to send their books to Berlin for stitching and binding, but so great ha& been the improvement in the Leipzig binders of late, that the books are now folded and prepared for the retailer before leaving the city. The habit also now is for publishers, in whatever part of Germany they print, to send their entire editions to Leipzig for folding and stitching. In the year 1830 there were in the city thirty- two master binders, and seventy journeymen. In 1867 there were one hundred and twenty-five masters, four hun- dred journeymen, one hundred and forty-five apprentices, eighty-six women, and forty-seven messengers ; and these numbers are constantly multiplying. Publishers, where- ever they live, prefer Leipzig as the place for printing their works. The presses are numerous. In the city and surburban towns there are forty-seven book-printing estab- lishments, where three hundred and sixteen presses are at work, conducted by seventeen hundred and fifty men and 10 212 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. women. Many of the journals and reviews of Germany which bear the imprint of various cities are actually printed in Leipzig. '1 he " Bazar" is ostensibly 1 in Berlin, but has the Leipzig imprint. PUBLISHED IN Gl ^73- i Litcratui ... 321 Theology Law, I 1 Medicine and Veterinary Practice Natural Sciences. Chemistry, and Pharma J Phi! Pcdaj.; : Juvei :cal and Oriental works; Archaeology and Myth- 690 I 339 Militai nt of Horses Archil Hunting, Cull ilture and Horti ulture.... 3'° 998 Fine Art-,, Painting, Mil hy Popular Pamphlets, 300 ; XI - for [874 show an incn O.OOO publication '1 in < ierman) Froi the average number per annum v I the numbei •he hi: ; twcni> THE PARADISE OF BOOKS. 2 1 3 8,326,1111851; 1870 produced 10,108; 1871,10,669; 1872, 11,127. Jt must not be imagined from these statistics, however, that all works occupying a place in the German bibliographical announcements are so many respectable volumes. The custom is — and it is really the only reliable way of keeping a complete literary record — to announce together all works that are thrown into the market. The pamphlet may stand side by side with the encyclopaedia, cover as much space with its little body, and have its price and publishers printed in as large type as Tischendorf s Sinaitic Codex, Sepp's Palestine, or Dora's Bible. So in the classified catalogues, a work that occupied the best five years of its author's life is just as prominent as the .brochure that he threw off at a sitting. Down to 1862, Dr. Lange had published forty-one different works — and he has been going on at the same rate ever since, for that matter — and, out of that number, eleven cost less than twenty-five cents each, eight less than eighteen cents, and three but eight cents. The man who worked up a concord- ance of Tennyson may yet live to produce a Bibliographia Langica. The late Dr. F. W. Krummacher published, down to the same year, sixty-eight works, but the most of them are single sermons, each costing about ten cents. However, among his works and those of Lange there are a good number of octavos, and in some instances several volumes to a single work. The wisdom with which the Germans conduct the book- trade, and the extent to which they have carried it, will appear all the greater when compared with two neighbor- ing people — the Russians on the east, and the Scandina- 214 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. vians on the north. "The I ling critical aul edi- tion. I ' mutual the mon I then the liah- . tie publish* He will deliver three, five, <»r six twenty-five must I are never sent to the tra<: sian on< ent of intellectual life. R ; iblishing tradi .. and it is an 'event' when lished in Kiew. Charkov, i from Rus ,000 silver rubles, and the im| 500.000 ruble I • the ii hed th« rubles. < >i this sum I .1 .000 rul of importation decn hundred and thirteen mseque book-trade, and the inactivitj entific life, i> the bibliography. 1 • in thi . but tl ; . i K urn THE PARADISE OF BOOKS. 21 5 tant Russian lending library, which also included scientific works, and in which nearly all the most important Rus- sian literature is registered. Then came a long pause until i860. From this date till 1S67 the "Bibliographical Messenger" {Kuischui Westnik) appeared semi-monthly, edited first by Senkowsky, and later by Rostowzew, in St. Petersburg. It met the most pressing needs of the Rus- sian book-trade, and in a certain degree gave accurate information about new literature. This publication, nev- ertheless, was discontinued from lack of support in 1867, having only an edition of five hundred copies." * The international copyright movement has been, and still is, resisted by Russia. The " Moscow Gazette," in an article on the subject, gives the following official statis- tics of the import and export of books for the last five years, and concludes from them that the interests of Rus- sia would not be promoted by an international copyright law. In 1866, books, maps, and music were exported to the value of 104,097 rubles ; imports amounted to 465,153 rubles; 1867, exports, 168,813 rubles, imports, 464,765 rubles ; 1868, exports, 128,649, imports, 1,103,380 rubles ; 1869, exports, 106,462, imports, 990,400 rubles ; 1870, ex- ports, 83,714, imports, 1,153,082 rubles. PUBLISHING STATISTICS OF SCANDINAVIA. Country. Area in Inhabitants. Cities. Book-print- Book- Square Miles, ing Houses. Stores. Denmark 14,000 1,700,000 75 119 623 Norway 120,000 1,750,000 46 60 124 Sweden 170.000 4,160,000 82 114 162 * " Magazin des Auslandes." Translated by J. P. Jackson. Zt6 1.1 IE IN Th D. I • Christiana. 1 im- i publishti ind ihe other in t! the 'tier li 1 here in the thn — la. I .... . . — .... l i \> '11 houses, < h < i twelve, and S;<>. kholm thn l>v three unions, all of wh THE BROCK HA US P UB LI SUING HO USE. 2 1 7 CHAPTER VI. THE BROCKHAUS PUBLISHING HOUSE. PERTHES. THE celebrated Brockhaus publishing establishment in Leipzig, Germany, was commenced in 1805 by- Frederick Arnold Brockhaus. At present it is in posses- sion of Henry Brockhaus and his two sons, Henry Ed- ward and Henry Rudolph. The branches of publishing business conducted by it are so varied, and the energy, system, and foresight exercised in its difficult management from the outset have been so marked, that its reputation is now European, or rather, world-wide. One morning in the latter part of July, 1868, I made a visit to the Brockhaus establishment. All the accounts which I had heard of the magnitude of its operations and of the management of the business, were far below the real results of personal inspection. The plain sign of " F. A. Brockhaus, 29 Queer-strasse," was all that indicated its locality. Entering through the street doorway, I found that the high and broad buildings were constructed around three large quadrangular courts, each court con- taining the refreshing contrast of a thick and beautiful growth of flowers and fruit-trees. Each building is de- voted to a general branch of the business, while the different floors arid sections are used for the respective subdivisions. Every department has its own counting- house, its allotted managers, and its bibliographical head ; 2l8 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. while there mple room in which the wh eral m 1. Thi the I to which all returns arc fii From the most distant work apprentii e. [t is the heart, which igth to the whole establishment I made men 11 h department — of the number of h i much of the machinery used. The various branches • »t hi. in the tablishment ai — r. A 1 rtaining tment of Gem and foreign works that arc in part issued h 1 in part arc only on commission. There an ral imm • ms in which I 1 its proper pi . I forthcoming •i <>rdcr from any ; • : !. [t is im- mpute the nui they ami unit to hundn ; . • book-store stricth under this xtensive and unique a chai I will s[K-ak i r. The blank paper de| thousand bales of paper re These contain thi: lightning pi driven I m, and I This section is und 1 of I in some of tlv ■ I ' all in THE BROCKHA US P UBLISHING HO USE. 2 1 9 Brockhaus building. He seemed greatly surprised to hear that such machinery was in existence, and was very much interested in a rough explanation of its operation. 3. A type-foundery. There are six foundery-furnaces, each re- quiring four men for its management. There are twelve machines for casting type. 4. A stereotype-foundery. The stereotyping is conducted according to the systems of Stanhope and Danle. Stereotyping by use of paper is also practiced, and extensively applied. 5. A galvano- plastic establishment. 6. An engraving and letter-carv- ing department. 7. A geographical and artistic estab- lishment for printing on stone and copper. There are thirteen copper and five lithographic presses. The stone is brought hither in its rough state, and prepared for print- ing by workmen here. The only stone in Germany fit for this purpose is transported from an obscure little village in Bavaria. The Brockhaus maps are celebrated throughout the world, and they, too, are produced here. Maps are prepared in any language, according to the order. A magnificent map, ordered by the Chinese government, and containing only Chinese characters, was nearly ready at the time of my visit. 8. A xylographical establish- ment. 9. A mechanical work-shop. 10. A book-bindery. 11. The antiquarian book-store. I was on the point of leaving the establishment when an opportune remark of my attendant called attention to this most interesting and attractive department. It is im- possible for even the proprietors to tell how many second- hand books they have on sale without consulting their records, for the number is constantly changing in conse- 10* 220 LIFE IX THE FATHERLAND. quence of new orders and purchases. One hundred thou- i is a very low estimate <>f the present number on the shelves. These works are gathered from all p • 1 combine all branch nee. The; • ten thousand theological works in store now. Some- times whole libraries are bought at once. Then. man whose sole business is to travel all over Europe, and make purchases of books that may be for either privat public sale. He had just returned from Venice, whither he h tnciani' library, bringing with him the three hundred and sixty-seven which held from fifty to sixty thousand volumes. < me contains the folios and rare works aloni •: I -hem are in excellent condition, and the illuminated mis have been selected with the most critical judgment have never seen an antiquarian book-Store in which the books are in such excellent condition as are those in the khaus establishment. In the antiquarian department there is a magnificent collection of both English and American authoi every valuable book issued in the United States for many years may be found here ; I must say. too, that there .. not worth the price of their transportation 5 the Atlantic. Hut there is no perfect antiquarian coll< tli-- Brockhaus is, perhaps, as near it as we tbly expect The young man bavin-- the m I this branch of the business is thorough! .vith all its details. His name is PinCUS, and he adds to lus | bibliographical attaim mplishmenl tlcman. II up all the Brockhaus antiqu THE BROCKHA US P U BUSHING HO USE. 2 2 1 1 »gues, which may be taken as models by all catalogue- makers. The Bibliotheca Historica (1866) is a completely classified register, with minute index at the close, of 8,663 historical works offered for sale by this one house. The catalogue of rare works on America alone, published from 1508 to 1700, occupies seventy-two pages of a closely- printed octavo volume. Herr Pincus has commenced the issue of completely classified catalogues of all the second- hand works now on hand. He had just given to the printer copy for the Theological Catalogue, which will constitute the first of the series. Italian literature will be the second, jurisprudence the third, and philosophy the fourth ; and so on, until the entire circle is completed. From this enumeration it will be seen that in this one establishment there are many subordinate ones combined. Every thing which a publisher needs, with perhaps the two exceptions of paper and the heaviest machinery, is manufactured around those three quadrangles, and under the personal inspection of those most interested in its use. If the Messrs. Brockhaus continue to supply their own wants in the future as rapidly as they have in the past, it need not occasion any surprise to see their advertisement for rags, and to learn that they are conducting their own paper-mill. There is the same diversity in the publications issued with their imprint as in their antiquarian collection and in the chemical department. They publish many theological books in the course of the year, but far more on other branches. They are as apt to publish a love- story as a commentary on Romans, and a skeptical as an orthodox book. There is no specialty, and apparently no LIFE IX THE FATHERLAND. theological prel Their aim is to publish what has merit, no matter what it be. In thi have le many a miscalculation ; but their sufficient evidence that Ihey have hit the mark more frequently than they have missed it. To a coraplish this much in Germany, where there is, if possible, much iter rivalry among publishers than in any other coun- try, is sufficient evidei the intelligence and judgment controlling the establishment. In proof of the general good cl reat di. sity oi the publications issued during the si.\tv-t\\ ;' the firm, some of the representative works may be enumerated. The Com the m<»st widely circulated work of encyi ture in Europe. It is a popular cycl after the style of the British Penny Cycl< mure iis.t'ul and complete. It was completed in i ■ Three hundred thousand have air* sold A monthly magazine, (Jnsere Zeit, has alrea high favor; several volumes of the new - peared. A smaller Conversations-Lexikon, for n practical use, has reached the second edition. Von 1 and Karl Welcli ts-Lexikon is now 01 third edition; while the Illustrirte HauS-und-Famili Lexikon, a work designed to meet the imm« ' life, has met with great favor. The fii <»t Wander's Deutsche Sprichv* • tire work. < M woiks of art. the S< lull. he THE BROCK HA US P U BUSHING HO USE. 223 Gallerie, with designs by Pecht and von Ramberg, stand deservedly high. The first half of the Lessing Gallerie is not behind its predecessors of the same class. In addi- tion to these engravings on steel there are many others on copper, stone, and wood. The Illustrirter Handatlas, and the Geographischer Handatlas Tiber alle Theile der Erde, together with many works of travel and adventure, abound- ing in wood-cuts, are also issued here. One series of German Classics of the Middle Ages, and another of Ger- man Poets of the Sixteenth Century, have been already commenced. There are also many works published in the English, Italian, Spanish, Portuguese, Polish, and Russian languages, embracing the most of the representative works in the belles-lettres sphere of the respective nations. There have also been published scientific works in Persian, Turkish, Sanscrit, Syriac, Tamul, Calmuck, ancient Greek, Ethiopic, and Hebrew. In addition to all these publica- tions a daily paper is issued, the Deutsche Allgemeine Zeitung. There is a bindery in which all the books manufac- tured by the Messrs. Brockhaus are bound, while they manufacture their own plates for stamping and ornament- ing the covers. They take orders from other publishers for printing books. I saw a large English work, an order from a London house, which was passing through their press. At the beginning of the year 1867 there were five hundred and sixty-two persons in their employ ; they now have six hundred and fifty. There is one respect in which the Tauchnitz house has far surpassed that of 224 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. khaus. I mean in the number of rej American \\ her pu done a lithe of what Tauchnitz >h literature on tbi foin. inslatii . idi- nitz " imprint, served up in p en it to American n The ! to be studied in all the German intelligent Germans t let with on the h travel can speak English raon nitz ntributed largely toward this the in the 1 ■ in which it h :i. Thi B lishmenl man publishing 1 rally, the German publisher 1 and would as little think of divei fort hanker would go in quest <>t tl ( >ne hoi onfined to th< books, another to the I another to the ( ierman ( and another to agriculture I who limits his issu and his 1 lis name, J ( hi . .hi. h Perthc the publi I i < H THE BROCK HA US P UBLISHL\ 'G HO USE. 22$ years in Leipzig were bitter enough, and no little booksell- er's boy was treated worse than " Fritz." But he fought his way up, became a bookseller in a small way himself, then a publisher, and, after the overthrow of the Napole- onic supremacy, the representative of the German pub- lishers on all important occasions, and the reorganizer of their business in its relations to the German government. His wife seems to have had no less foresight than her hus- band. The whole story of their checkered life, crowned at last with abundant success, is told in a number of books, but best of all in a translation from the German, entitled " Memoirs of Frederick Perthes." The son has been for a long time endeavoring to gather about him the best geographers of Germany, and secure the very best fruit of their pens. And he has not been unsuccessful. Both the Berghauses, Petermann, Spruner, Stieler, Sydow, Barth, Van de Velde, Menke, and many other geographers and cartographers, appear on his cata- logue, and seem to publish solely through him. In the special department of map-publishing he has no rival. Booksellers and others — for example, Meyer of Hilburg- hausen — publish maps on a large scale ; but those which are prepared by the artists of Justus Perthes are the most carefully and scientifically gotten up, and are the recog- nized standards in Europe. They are always accepted by the governments as authority. Petermann's Geographical Communications, Van de Velde's Map of Palestine, Menke's Bible Atlas, Spruner's Atlas of the Ancient World and Historical Atlas, Curtius' Maps of Athens, Kiepert's Maps, and many others, are among its issues. 226 LIFE IX THE FATHERLAND. CHAPTER VII. -I l OND-HAND RAPHV. N' O country can equal <■ in the multitude old books. The vei I heir wi paper from among the unstitched and ui ■ lias and classics. An old fruit woman in q tingen gave me a quart <»t cherries in a cornu< made of the unfolded l< k 11 ij Thirty the antiquarian I I nearly monopolized by one housi -I O. VVeigel the business has developed there are twenty-five important antiquarian i city. The six largest (»i this number 1. million of volumes on hand, money amounts to 140,000 thalers. Th< mfined to five hou 1 these held in 1 auctions, when fifty-four thousand amounting to t\\" hundred thousand volumes. 1 from reali. >o thai The CUStom • the li': men alter then metiim more common in 1 than with us. and in t iermany than in I Ian I I a tin up and sent I tionecr, to keep ti SECOND-HAND BOOKS.— BIBLIOGRAPHY. 227 The magnitude of some of these individual libraries is astounding ; and when the catalogue is made up and dis- tributed, the number of works proves to be so great, and the books themselves often of such value, that orders are made from all parts of Europe and America. The books of a distinguished man, however, do not sell because of their ownership, but solely because of their intrinsic worth. The average German book-buyer does not care a groat for the hands that once handled a book, or for the rare auto- graph on the fly-leaf. His only concern is, the book's necessity for him. The library of the late Prussian court preacher, Frederick William Krummacher, was caught up by a Potsdam antiquarian, who issued a catalogue on very poor paper, and sent it around among the trade. The books were priced, and offered at private sale. They were declared on the title-page to have belonged, every one of them, to Krummacher. But the prices at which they were offered were exceptionally low, even below the average. No advantage was taken, and none would have been ex- pected, of the great man who had once possessed them. I bought a number of works from this collection, some ot which proved that even in Germany a presentation copy is not always read by the recipient. The leaves of a copy of Lange's "Vermischte Schriften," bearing the author's affectionate autograph, were not even cut ; while a presen- tation copy of Van Oosterzee's " Christ among the Candle- sticks " had only been read a little here and there, and a paragraph or two marked by an unsteady pencil. In the early part of 1869 the library of the late Maximilian, of Mexico, was offered for sale in Leipzig by List and Francke. 228 /./. rare worth, for Maximilian Lted lit' thor, but spared no pains or mi Hate all iting to M i and the western hemisphere but, even in m ".heir tiiui with an unfortui The luxury <»t' personal attend: not known in Germany made I rs to 1 I in eral attempts toattend an auction, i: of the u but found that, n«.t bcinf Uer, my lesirable. It is no n a private purchaser attend than that he attend the semi-annua vitt's, in New York. The like th( lently, wh< the salesroom the i had im- mediately, but must be brought from ti. The storehouse is illy in an rents are * heap, and ofl immi M '■ magazin," was on fort. 1 Ic kind: through labyrinthian alle show ids imi I nitilull, the - SECOND-HAND BOOKS.— BIBLIOGRAPHY. 229 without an immediate answer being given whether or not it was on sale. I am convinced that the German method of conducting the antiquarian trade is the wisest. In the case of auctions, the catalogues are distributed by the venders to the retail booksellers at home and abroad, who distribute them to those who are in the habit of giving orders. Then in the regular antiquarian trade there are com- plete catalogues of the works on hand, so that no time need be lost in delving in a mass of unclassified books, in uncertainty as to whether the desired one can be had. The German dealer can tell you in a moment if he has the book you wish. You can tell yourself, for he will hand you his catalogues. No respectable dealer is without a catalogue of his collection, and, to adapt it to the changes of his assortment, he issues new editions constantly. Un- like our American catalogue makers, he enriches his cat- alogue but sparingly with enlightening notes, from the Dibdins and Homes and Lowndes of the Fatherland, on the rare excellence of the particular works ; for he is well aware that those who wish the works know quite as much about them as he does himself, and that praise begets doubt. Nowhere as in Germany is cataloguing reduced to a complete science. The whole land abounds in Sabins and Ezra Abbots. Some of the catalogues of second- hand book houses are of marvelous size. Lempertz of Cologne issues annually a stout duodecimo, with supple- ments at frequent intervals. The one for 1868, the sixty-ninth in number, contains 13,710 lots. Brockhaus 230 /JFK IX THE FATHERLAND. and B in addil an alphabetical monthly list, wh nJ bro •her in solid shap< ederick Mull< ly man on the continent \vl ts up gue equal to B . with specimen frontis] atalogi imphlel ither ami h .•ies, in ire 3,000 I Mailer's noted thi paper, is one of the best ever issued. It is n be 1ki<1 at any pri< e. Some of 1 have little cuts on the cover — i with characteristic motto. 1 the tl eal l I 'A A Bnil with th. . Nordlin :in quiescent, with t: Arbeit Friede ; " t a broad-frilled and skull-cap] mund Feyerabend ; ami thai I •• 1 I ibenl sua lata libelli." Tin- < lermans the rmliim I hand d tin- L*xacl I SECOND-HAND BOOKS.— BIBLIOGRAPHY. 231 graphica," is the prince of living bibliographers now that Brunet is gone. He publishes a bibliographical monthly, and nothing escapes him. Hinrichs, of Leipzig, pub- lishes a semi-annual alphabetical catalogue of all the pub- lications of Germany. He also issues an excellent quar- terly catalogue, classified both alphabetically and topically. The last number of the semi-annual is a closely printed duodecimo, in 366 pages, comprising twenty-two rubrics. While these publications, not to mention the many special bibliographies constantly appearing, are intended for the general public as well as for the trade, the booksellers have a class of directories and helps of various kinds which are limited to themselves, and designed to simplify and enlarge their intricate business. The excellent " Direc- tory of Booksellers," by Mr. J. H. Dingman, of New York, may be regarded as an American specimen in the same important line. LIFE IN TH HERLAND. A CHAM ER VIII. AKV CHA] 5. — AU1 N a< count of two <>r three of th Germany may not inaj of the publishing im I must j that, to the honor of th for its language and literature theincn There was a time, and that i when I man mind was .skeptical of its own ; This wing largely to the influen I lerick the who, him French than German, was never so much al surrounded by Baron d'Holba h, Y ll i the destructive I and gold could enl m. The mam. and literary model nee were held that any attempt to banish them from the court an . of the nobility, and the 1 with severe censure on the part of ti. (C m- selves. The outside world and dull th in tin in litei in tl fhich p " ' ■ nun wl LITERARY CHARACTERS. 233 because of their grotesque and clumsy greatness, not be- cause of any many-sided affinities with the great thinking world. What she found at Weimar was a surprise to her ; and what she wrote was the first revelation to Eu- rope of the original creative power of the modern Ger- man mind. Lessing was the first recent writer to appeal to his countrymen in defense of their own language and letters. He pleaded for total independence from foreign masters. Klopstock and Korner, who were brought into the national struggle for deliverance from the domination of Napoleon, followed in the same strain. Goethe and Schiller were proofs of what the German intellect was capa- ble of producing, and their greatest service lay, not in what they immediately accomplished, but in the confidence and self-poise with which they endowed the national mind. Waterloo proved that the French military power could be broken. The Prusso-Austrian war of 1866, by its happy issue for Prussia, separated the Germans as never before from the Slavic element, and taught them the possi- bility of taking the initiative with tolerable safety. The Franco-Prussian war of 1870-71 achieved the unity of Germany — far less in politics, however, than in literature ; and now, for the first time, the Germans are pursuing a course totally independent of French models. French is still taught in their schools, and always will be, but is re- ceiving no more attention than the English. Throughout the non-German portions of the continent — save in France itself — German is found to be as convenient to travel with as the French, while in Scandinavia and the Orient the English is getting to be more available than either. 234 LIFE JN THE FATHERLAND. I. Bl Kl HOI D An RBACH. The little village of Nordstetten Lies high up in the mountains of the Schwarzwald, or Bla k Forest The people of that region, separated from the .stir and bustle of the world, maintain themselv* and the rearing of cattle, alter the custom of their ai They are the real Black Foresters, who, scorning all the storms of the times, have remained unchai ntu- The genera] pi of culture has not been able disturb their traditional custom high-r and rail: irmed the means of communication 1 the plains and the inhabitants of the mountains, few ' elers found their way thither; but now, since the rai been brought to the town of /orb, within an hour's journey of Nordstetten, the romantic beauty of this ; of the Schwarzwald has become known, ami no through that primitive region i visit the vill ol Nordstetten. Thousands annually make their pilgrim- thither from far and near; for the littl unknown to the outer world, ha renown. It is the birth] f one who is Germany's foremost living literar) celebrity in fiction, and almost in For the I I the preseni account of him 1 indebted to an essay, in the German, by Emil 1 Berthold Auerbachwas bom of parentage on the 28th oi February, 1812. I [< in the village school of his nat . but lai the Jewish School which i. LITERARY CHARACTERS. 235 worthy teacher, Bernhard Frankfurter, whom Auerbach honors to this day, put a just estimate on the talents of his scholar, and exercised an important influence on the development of the subsequent master in fiction. As his parents, by the advice of his teacher, intended to devote him to the study of Jewish theology, he studied the Talmud at an early age, and, when thirteen, entered the Talmud School at Hechingen, where he remained two years, and then went to the Jewish Theological School at Carlsruhe, for development as a rabbi. There, among other studies, he undertook that of the Latin language, which he had commenced in Nordstetten. He also spent some hours every day at the gymnasium of that place. He has since given expression to the impressions of this period in his " Ivo, der Hajrle." In the spring of 1830 here- turned to his native Wr.rtemberg, and, after a short period of private instruction, entered the gymnasium at Stutt- gart. Two years afterward, in 1832, we find him a student of jurisprudence in the University of Tubingen ; but he soon turned from this study to become a pupil of David Frederick Strauss, that ardent disciple of the extreme Hegelian wing, who was soon to launch upon the world his destructive " Life of Jesus." The fame of Schelling attracted young Auerbach the following year to Munich, in order to continue his philosophical studies. The youth of Germany, were at that time full of schemes of progress and free government. The rulers were sus- picious of the " young, bold seed," and Auerbach became complicated in some disturbance of students, and was arrested at Munich. He accordingly spent three months 1 1 236 LIFE I. X THE FATHERLAND. in the prison of Hohenasperg, in Wfirtemberg, which the place where the hris- tian Schubart had spent ten years' imprisonment, from 1777 to ' 7 "T- When again at liberty, Auerbach went to lelberg, where he completed his studies during the years [834 and 1835. He b • ipie of the celebrated historians Schlosserand Gervinus. I the scholars manifested espe< ial partiality for the young and laborious student ; and then was laid the foundation of that intimate friendship which, at a later period, exi between the three. During his re Heidel Auerbach made his first appearani . writer by the publication of a large historical work under the pseudonym h Ch r, the 1 : 3 from which enabled him to carry on his studii The first work under his own name — " Tin and the Latest Literal — appeared in the strife of that time in which Wol Men/el, like Rich- ard Wagner of to-day, railed at all end* >r impr ment coming from the and stam Laube, Mundt, Winparg, and othen the lie legislation. This first experiment wa in the year 1837, by the romance of "Spinoza;" an short time later, during his residence at Fl the Main, by that oi " Dichter and Kaufman n, 1 1 Tradesman, In the year 1840, we find h in 1 in a translation of the comp the Latin, which a] in five volumes in 1841. I this period dates that intimal hment with tl LITERARY CHARACTERS. 237 Freiligrath, (who at that time lived at Unkel, on the Rhine,) of which Auerbach, in his speech on his friend, delivered on the 7th of September, 1867, gave an elo- quent procf. During his residence in Bonn the plan of the " Dorfgeschichten " (Village Stories) was projected. Auerbach himself says concerning it : " When I received the news of the death of my father, (in the summer of 1840,) I wandered for several days alone through the Siebengebirge. Deeply moved by a longing for home, I wrote out the plan of the first twelve 'Village Stories' under the great beeches near Plittersdorf. 1 went to Freiligrath. I must have related to him very obscurely the plans that were in my head, for they were not dis- tinct in my own mind." Two years afterward, Freiligrath greeted, from St. Goar, the beautiful edition of these " Village Stories " — which had already appeared in numbers — with a charm- ing poem, of which the following strophes are a specimen : — " This is a book ! I can indeed not tell How it has seized right deep my inmost soul ; How by this leaf this heart of mine was struck, And how by that one I was nigh o'eFwhelmed ; How I, at that, was forced to bite my lips, And how, again, I was obliged to smile ! All these things have in you alone succeeded, Because in life you let your labor ripen. What freshly hath sprung forth from out of life, Will, even as life itself, seize hold of us ; And right and left, with pleasure and with pain Will take by storm the generous human heart." Auerbach's village stories disclosed to German narrative poetry a new sphere of national material, and made an epoch 238 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. by its form as well as its matter ; for it appeared just when, in consequent e of the continued suppression of public life in Germany, literature had come to a complete si lassitude, so that even the most prominent poets of the time considered their gift a misfortune. But "what freshly hath sprung forth from out of life will, 1 life itself, seize hold of us." The>c verified them- selves. The volume had a complete success, and, in a short time, made the author the popular favorite. It in- troduced the people once more to themselves, and them what had been lost in the preceding | I by the romantic endeavors of •• y,. mg Germarty." A h is, in the molding ami description of his forms, m< ive than objective; but forms, like fad able of distinct meaning, and stand under his treatment themselves, alone in all their freshness and h ,e is surprised at their great simplicity and artistic finis: well as at their profundity ami spiritual apprehens The thoughts and representations are joined to a work of art in which we see the mind of a poet who ha the world in its depths and grandeur. The importance of Auerbach docs n fact that he has created in his " Y new- kind of poetry, for in this he had been anticipat in tin- objects which In- h 'ed. for in the of the people of the provinces and in the Style he is even outdone by others; hut •1 the kind and m.i: 1 many years he was the onlj held that the first prim iple of ai t is to submei LITERARY CHARACTERS. 239 a merit all the more striking, since the very opposite idea had, for a long time, held sway. Many have tried to imitate Auerbach, but without suc- cess. His " Village Stories " are not only translated into almost all living languages, and have thus become the common wealth of all people, but have furnished material for other forms of literature. We may mention here the dramatizing of one of the most beautiful of these poems, the " Frau Professorin," (the Lady Professor,) by Charlotte Birch-Pfeiffer, under the title of " Dorf and Stadt," (Village and Town.) The poet gave utterance to his feelings at this in the " Europa," when he said that the putting of this piece on the stage gave him as much pain as it must give a father to see his favorite child among mountebanks. From 1840 Auerbach lived a wandering life. We see him in 1842 in Mayence ; in 1843, in Carlsruhe and Ba- den; in 1844 and 1845, in Leipsig, Berlin, or Dresden; and after the winter of 1 846-1 847, in Breslau. In the latter place he married Auguste Schreiber, daughter of the banker Schreiber. He then settled in Heidelberg. There Auerbach spent many happy days, his affectionate wife sympathizing with the character and retiring ways of her husband. But he was not destined to* be so fortunate in his domestic life as in his literary productions, for his wife died in less than a year. Then Auerbach again com- menced his wandering life. He first went back to Breslau, and from there, in the autumn of 1848, to Vienna. To his residence in the latter city we owe his " Tagebuch aus Wien," (Journal from Vienna,) which appeared in 1849, and the tragedy, "Andreas Hofer," in 1850. While there 240 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. he married Nina Landesmann, daughter of the decea hanker Landesmann, and sister of the novelist of the Vienna " Presse," who writes under the pseudonym of 1 1 ieronymus Lorm. Auerbach then settled in Dresden, which lie made his permanent residence, and gave himself up entirely to lit- ei Lry labors. There fallowed in quirk succession, " Neues Leben," (New Life,) in [851 : two other volumes of "\'il- lage Stories" in 1852; and, in separate editions, the quisitely beautiful " Barfussle," the pearl of the - 1 Stories," in 1 s 5 5 . "Deutsche Abende," (German Even- ings,) first series, was issued in [858, " Edelweiss" in I and"Joseph ira Schr [oseph in the : in i860. From the years 1S45 to 1S4.S there had appeared, bes "Schrift und Volk," (Writing and People series of people's almanacs, under the title, "D< l mn." whose contents were particularly designed for the country iple, and had much influence. As the port had, in his •• \ ili ige Storiesr," found the right way to make the hi. classes acquainted with the humbler rank he had now discovered a way ^i influencing the people in a stricter sense I luring the four years of its appearance, the " ( ievatleismann " became the household ry rural hearth in Middle and South Germany. The I later period, collected ami issued ma plete form, under the name ^i " Schat/kastleii: mannes," (Treasui I of the 1 ! -.ist in a Separate edition, and then in the author's com; which appealed in Stuttgart in \ ( ,lumes. In iS.j.K theiea; a countei I the LITERARY CHARACTERS. 241 " Gevattersmann," with the title of " Berthold Auerbach's Volkskalender," under the co-operative management of the first scholars and artists of Germany ; but it only- reached a second issue. If the " Village Stories " gave a representation of the life of the people in an artistic form, for the educated, the " Volkskalender " gave a representation, not of the life of the people, but of the entire movement of the time. It was a noteworthy sign of progress that a talented writer like Auerbach should so far depart from the literary traditions of Germany as to stake his name in producing a book for the people, and not teach to-day what had been acquired with difficulty, and only superficially, the day before, but to instruct, to strengthen, the popular heart, to teach in- dependence of mind, and to excite thankfulness for daily blessings. Since the year i860 Auerbach has resided in Berlin. During the summer months, however, he generally migrates to his native South Germany. Among his latest publica- tions are "Auf die Hohe," (On the Heights,) new "Deut- sche Abende," (German Evenings,) and " Landhsus am Rhein," (Country House on the Rhine.) What qualifies Auerbach for his high position as the most popular Ger- man writer of the present time is, his love and esteem for the people, but more especially his honest manner of ex- pressing his opinions and feelings, without prejudice or re- straint. It can truly be said of him that he is a poet, a deep thinker, and a well-wishing, true-hearted man, who seeks by his writings to have a good and lasting influence on the people. He belongs to the few writers, the aim of 242 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. whose lives is the culture and material elevation of the people. Most popular authors strive, fi I imuse their readers — few to teach them. In ord< autlv.r must not stand on the height of contemplat only, but he must also have the power to ; what he thinks. The German who would he the i: i his countrymen must have closely observed the period just ;ed as well as the present, and comprehend the sibilities of his land and people, and the 1. de- velopment. And this height has been reached by Auer- bach, who, in prose fiction and in poetry, has already taken his place in the German literary Walhalla as " teacher of the people." 11. At' l'l I i KM \\N. THE real author of all the great German expedit discovery for the last twenty years is Dr. Augustus 1'. maun. Without himself being a practical explorer, he has traversed in thought the unknown ■ ached out the real traveler, inspired him with his own love of re- search, furnished him with assistants, apparatu money, and after sending him off on the rk of exploration, has seen that he was not forgotten when <>k him. has kept the public informed movements, and has aided him, on his return, in the : preparation of Ins reports for the readii He born on the [8th of Apr;! . in the viK ch- erode, situated in the Golden Meadow, l.i. hsfeld and the II - ' Q Jj LITERARY CHARACTERS. 243 father, who was an actuary in the place, was so slender as barely to enable him to send the boy to school. Yet the mother, secretly entertaining a desire that her son should become a theologian, did every thing in her power to give him an education. After he had gone through the highest school at Bleicherode, he was sent, when fourteen years of age, to the gymnasium at Nordhausen. Here he soon distinguished himself by his cartographical labors. In the lowest classes it was customary, and still is in such institutions in German)', to assign this employment to the scholars for their labor at home, and Petermann's work in that department soon attracted the attention of all his instructors. But even later, when he reached the high- est classes, he exhibited a preference for geographical studies. In 1839 Professor Henry Berghaus, the celebrated geographer, established an institution in Potsdam for the education of geographers and cartographers. He called this new institution, with the special advice of Alexander von Humboldt, a School of Geographic Art. Through some agency, young Petermann's mother was persuaded to renounce her preference for his becoming a theologian, and though the father's means were still meager, we yet find the son, on the 1st of August, 1839, an inmate of Berghaus' school. Two of his associates were Henry Lange and Otto Goecke, the former of whom is now in the employ of the Statistical Bureau at Berlin, and the latter died a few years ago. Through the skillful manage- ment of the director of the school, all the young men became enthusiastic in geodetical, hydrographical, oro- 11* 244 LIFE IX THE FATHERLAND. graphical, and hical studies ; and a numbei them were colaborers in the preparation of cel- ebrated "Physical Atlas." This work indirectly ted both Lange and Petermann to I id, for it had created such attention in Great Britain that A. Keith Johns) Edinburgh, having resolved to prepare lish edition, found it necessary to mans to work on it; and, in 1S44, Petermann and Lange were in his employment in Scotland. In some parts they labored together, and in other parts alone, on Johnston's "Physical which, >.> far as both the maps aiul the text are concerned, is not simply a translation of Berghaus' work, hut in mon than one is new ami independent. I luring their stay in Edinburgh the two German friends made many excursions to the Highlai with them all the necessary apparatus ientific in tions. In 1847 Lange returned Petermann a while longer in Scotland. Six 1 rmann went to London, where, though without em- inent, he continued hi raphical labors in a quiet way. lie was full of faith that he w placed in easy circumstances, when he could pui chosen studies untrammeled. 1 le soon became with Baron Bunsen, at that time the Prus dor to the Court of St. James. Bunsen re him witli a. ninth, and during the whole ] 1 man n's stay in London was his firm friend Petermann also became tinted with ti. phers, Sir R t Mui hison, ■ LITERARY CHARACTERS. 245 who had already become aware of the share which he had taken in the preparation of Johnston's "Atlas," and who were well pleased with his enthusiasm for geograph- ical studies. Their praise of him was very ardent after the appearance of his two magnificent maps of the British Isles, one of them describing the hydrographical relations, river-plan, and net-work of canals, with all the climatic information bearing on the country, and the other being a representation of all the English statistics. In 1850 he published, in connection with the Rev. Thomas Milner, an " Atlas of Physical Geography," with explanatory text. He established in London a Geographical Institute, and was appointed geographer to the Queen. He now began to work in that department which has since done more than any thing else to raise him to the very front rank of geographers, namely, the organization of expeditions for research and discovery in the unknown portions of Africa. In 1849 ne was tne means of setting on foot the plan by which the English Government sent out an expedition, accompanied by German scientific men, to Central Africa. He owed the success of his ideas in this affair to his friend Baron Bunsen, who represented the matter to Lord Palmerston. Palmerston likewise ap- proved of it, and gave orders, with the Queen's consent, for the fitting out of the expedition. But the great diffi- culty was to select the proper German geographers to accompany it, and this part of the undertaking was left to Petermann. He corresponded immediately with his friend Lange, who was at that time in Berlin, and requested him to consult with Carl Ritter, of Berlin, on the subject, 2+G LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. and proposed to him to be one of the expedition. Bui as Ritter was at that time absent from the city, Lange made the same proposition to Dr. Henry Barth, who had already distinguished himself by his journey to Syria, and by his bold tours along the north coast of Africa, but was now settled as a private tutor in the Berlin University, and could not think of going upon such a long and dangerous expedition. Petcrmann, fearing that either no Germans, or none sufficiently scientific, would join the enterpri.se, hastened to Berlin, and had a conversation with Barth and n the subject. Barth, whose enthusiasm by this time fully awakened, no more felt easy in his quiet tutor's chair, and promised to be one of the number to join the expedition. < >verweg united with him. The expedition set sail on the 5th of October, 1 - and its celebrated career is well known. Richardson and rweg died in Africa, and Barth was left alone to pur- sue the wmk of research. It was now ne< assistance to the solitary traveler, and Petcrmann. who was well aware of the absolute barrenness of astronomical observations in Africa, resolved to supply Barth with an astronomer. IK- at once bethought him of Dr. 1 Vogel, who was at that time an assistant in Bisho servatory in Regent's Park, and who, he knew, would be ctly willing to go. Through Bunsen's intervention, supported by Admiral Smith, Colonel Sabine, and Sir \Y. ]•'. Hooker, Peterraann gained the consent of the Mini of Foreign Affairs, Lord John Russell, who tO Barth's assistance. The sad fate which Vogel met had a depressing influence upon Petermann, but it was only LITERARY CHARACTERS. 247 for a moment, and was really the beginning of that brill- iant series of German exploring expeditions which were conceived and organized by Petermann. He did not con- fine himself to Africa, but was the first who created, by his lectures before the Geographical Society and his numerous treatises and newspaper articles, the popular sentiment in favor of expeditions in search of Sir John Franklin, which have become an integral part of the his- tory of modern discovery. The year 1854 was the turning-point in Petermann's life. His influential friend, Baron Bunsen, retired from political life, and left London, and Petermann acceded to the repeated call of young Bernhard Perthes, the proprie- tor of the Perthes Publishing House of Gotha, to settle in Gotha, and take charge of a Geographical Institute, which should prove a center of geographical knowledge for Ger- many and the world. Perthes believed that Petermann was the proper man for the great undertaking, and there- fore secured his consent. But Perthes died in 1857; this, however, did not seem to deflect Petermann in the least from his purpose. In 1855 he had started a new journal, which has long since outstripped its com- petitors in every language. It is styled, " Mittheilungen," — " Communications," from Justus Perthes' Geographical Institute, on New and Important Researches in the En- tire Department of Geography. But he did not give up one of his favorite branches of geographical labor — the organizing of expeditions of discovery. In i860, he man- aged to get up one for throwing light upon the fate of the unfortunate Edward Vogel. He worked long in doubt, -4* s LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. but succeeded in securing the assistance of his friends, and others who were interested in geographical undertake i, for the organization of the first purely German expe- dition, and Theodore von Heuglin, Steudner, Munzii Kinzelbach, Hansal, and Schubart composed it I three of these found their graves in Africa; and though the specific object of the expedition was not reached, the fruits which were reaped by it have been of incalculable service. Petermann, by dint of shrewd management, sent out another African expedition under Moritz von Beur- mann, with the design of crossing the desert from the north to WadaL This expedition, too, notwithstanding its unfortunate termination, has thrown a world of light upon the district traveled by Beurmann, and lias already been made use of by subsequent explorers. The brill- iant results of the expeditions of Gerhard Rolfs and of Mauch, the former of whom reached the hitherto inac- cessible regions of the Sahara, and the latter the almost unknown border lands of the Republic of Transvaal, likewise owe their origin to Peterraann. II.- also organ- ized the German North Pole Expedition of 1868. At present he is in the very midst of great plans ami new e n ( i III. K \i i VoGT. K \ki. Vogt, the early friend and colaborer oi has attracted more popular attention than any other I man scientist of the last three de He h popular talents as a public lecturer, ami nevei tails to draw LITERARY CHARACTERS. 249 large audiences. He is a strong advocate of the Darwin- ian theory of development ; opposition to the Mosaic ac- count of the creation is with him almost a monomania. His influence is of immense weight in strengthening and clothing with scientific garb the materialistic tendencies now, unfortunately, rapidly spreading through Germany. He was born July 5th, 18 17, in Giessen, where his father was professor of medicine in the university, and where young Vogt afterward attended the gymnasium and uni- versity, with the design of becoming a physician. On the removal of the family to Berne, Switzerland, in conse- quence of the father's call thither as professor, the son became enchanted with the study of zoology, and, after his promotion to the doctorate, entered into hearty scien- tific co-operation with Agassiz and Desor. In company with these men he undertook the celebrated expedition of exploration in the higher Alps. He became joint au- thor with Agassiz of the " Natural History of Fresh- Water Fishes, Fossil Fishes, and Studies on Glaciers." In addition to these associated literary labors, he published, while yet young, several independent works, among which are, "In the Mountains and On the Glaciers," (1843,) " Text-Book of Geology and Petrifactions,". (2 vols. 1846,) and "Physiological Letters," (1845.) These works have passed into several new editions. From 1844 to 1846 Vogt lived in Paris, where he continued his scientific studies with great energy, and united with a number of his fellow-countrymen in establishing the Society of Ger- man Physicians of Paris. This association is still in existence, and has been of much service in aiding young 250 LIFE l.x THE FATHERLAND. deal students from Germany in the successful p cution of their studies. From Paris, Vogt went to Italy, but receiving a calJ to the University of Giessen, he re- paired thither in 1N47. Just then the political revolution was preparing to break over Kurope, and he united heart and soul with the revolutionists, even accepting an official command of troops in their interest. In due time he appeared as a member of the Imperial Parliament in Frankfort-on-the-Main, where he distinguished himself more for his fearless utterances in behalf of political free- dom than for practical political skill. He wen 4 ly in 1. and while there wrote one work, and laid the foun- dation for several which have since been published. In 1852 he went to Geneva, in obedience to a call to a pro- ' sorship of g . and, in [861, took charge of a very successful scientific expedition to the Norwegian < and Iceland. It ha- been during this last period of Vogt's life, em- ing his residence in Geneva, that he has occupied most public attention by his strongly pronounced materi- alism, and by his untiring eft. .its in giving it currency among the masses. In his celebrated controversy with Professor Wagner, of Bonn University, on the relation of the soul to the body, and on the relation of faith to knowl- edge, he appeared at tin- head of the young materialistic school with Moleschott, Buchner, and others. In his " Implicit Faith in Science," he saj s ; ■■ 1 [ e w ho is a friend ot Science cannot :/ C the truth of those d relation which enter into conflict with science; nat- ural si ience should In- totally liberated from the in flue LITERAR V CHARACTERS. 25 I of religion and faith." This one sentence is the whole of his barren creed, and, indeed, of the whole school which he represents. No stronger expression was needed to convince every one of Vogt's contempt of revelation ; but his individual views, though carefully elaborated, have been already successfully met by his own countrymen with arguments on the evangelical side. Vogt, having become greatly embittered by the recep- tion that he has met from his theological opponents, has spared no pains to gain a foothold for his opinions in the public mind. The following is the substance of his views on man's origin, as expressed in the concluding lecture of a course in Leipzig. The extract may be taken as a specimen of the general tenor of the lectures delivered by him to large audiences nearly every winter in the German cities : — Man, in his pre-historic period, had to defend his ex- istence against other species, but he is the only species that has been brought to civilization and culture by his own labors. With the progress of civilization, the human form has been developed in the symmetry and harmony of its members, but especially in the development of the brain. The skull belonging to an earlier period shows a great similarity to that of the brute, and, as the ages advance, it indicates a higher development, until, at the present day, it is found in the highest state which the world has ever known. In comparing man with the monkey, there is a great difference perceptible in the development of the brain. The young ape and the human child resemble each other in the formation of the skull and brain only 252 UFE IN THE FATHERLAND. relatively, and the older they grow the more unlike they me. With these differences in the formation of the ape and man, there are still gradations: the lower grades extend, as by individual branches, up to the higher, and these again connect with the lower. The gorilla, which is physically most like man, r< before the or outang when compared with the skull and teeth. The result of Vogt*s whole argument is: The present man derives his origin, not from similarly-formed fore- fathers, but equally as little from the present ape. The ape and the man originate from the same stork. Hence, the ape and man, when young, approximal Other in form. Moth are derived from a rel whose form of brain stands upon a lower scale than that of the present ape. From this uniform stock the ape and man have proceeded in their widely separated paths. This theory of progression, from the imperfect to the per- . by individual men and generations, through peculiar power and by the continuous exercise of the intellectual faculties, Yogt holds, is much more feasible than the idea of a degradation of humanity from an ideal ami m feet state to a more imperfect St Vogt claims that bit ween faith and knowledge there a world-wide and irreconcilable difference on the hist the creation, and that only science can rectify the of orthodox theology. He and his tinually decrying the doctrine of a fall, and hold up their hands ientific horror at the mention of man ner, whi< h, the} human dignit) ime men declare that man ami the brute have the LITERARY CHARACTERS. 253 same common origin in nature. The strongest word that Augustine, Calvin, or Wesley ever said on human deprav- ity is not so degrading to the dignity of our race as the fundamental tenet in the materialistic school — the common source of man and brute. The renewed attention lately directed to Vogt, in consequence of his lectures, has sub- jected him and his school to the wit of the caricaturists. As a result the German comic papers abound in illustra- tions of his views. In one, for instance, he is represented as being seated in his study, hard at work, when the door is suddenly opened, and Mr. Gorilla walks in, dressed like a man, holding his hat in hand, and making a low bow to his honored friend, thanking him for having given him and the rest of his race their true position in science and before the world. In another caricature a man is repre- sented as going through a menagerie, when a little monkey suddenly sees him, recognizes him as an old friend, and stretches out his paw through the bars of the cage to give him a characteristic welcome. Vogt cannot complain of any injustice being dealt him, for he and his school are of the same thinking as a certain Berlin materialist, who, in closing a lecture a few years ago, said to his students : " Gentlemen, my next lecture will be devoted to proving to you, beyond a doubt, that monkeys are our first-cousins ! " 254 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. IV. Adalbert Sid i i k. Although Austria is no longer regarded, since the war of 1 866, ;^ a part of Germany, the German tongue is spoken by the great controlling body of her people. The empire is not productive of strong literary characters, and only here and there one appears above the surface. The Austrian wliu lias taken the best position in poetry during the cen- tury, and the nearest approach that any part of Germany furnished to the sweet and quaint Jean Paul, is the late Adalbert Stifter. He was the son of a linen-weaving peasant, and was born in Bohemia on the 23d of Oct 1806, just at the time when Austria, and indeed all Eu- rope, was reechoing with the triumphal songs of v After entering the University of Vienna as a student, he gave up first one and then another department, without having heart for any in particular. In this way he drifted, in turn, from jurisprudence to political economy, philoso- phy, history, mathematics, and natural science. When he left the university he was, of < . profi- cient in nothing. He became a tutor in the famib. Prince Metternich, meanwhile contributing poems to the Vienna " Zeitung." I >n the appearance of his poetical works his name became at once known to all Germany. The critical journals abounded in his ] , :u i be the subji ition in all literal;. -. Hut his sudden greatness was as much a surprise to himsc could have been to any one else. II LITERARY CHARACTERS. 255 moment to think there could be merit in his achievements or worth in himself. Stifter was not at all adapted to society. Heavy, clum- sy, and grotesque in form, he was still more unattractive in company. He would never take part in conversation if he could avoid it, and it was indescribably painful to him to be thrown into the society of ladies. He always cut a sorry figure in the parlor. For example, at the time when he was tutor in Prince Metternich's family, and when his praise was in every body's mouth, some ladies who were calling on the princess eulogized his poems in the warmest terms, and expressed a desire to see him. The princess replied to them, that she would give them the opportunity of seeing a poet ; and on the appointed evening her drawing-room was merry enough with their lively conversation. They were all expectation, and scarcely knew how they should conduct themselves best in the presence of the great man whose overpowering presence they were expecting every moment. The door opened, and a tall, heavy, and slowly- moving figure entered. He stood a moment, bowed con- fusedly right and left, not knowing whether it was to the ladies or to the chairs and statues that he was paying his compliments. He dropped heavily into a convenient chair, and was as silent as the tomb of the Hapsburgs. The ladies took courage and talked to him, but only " yes " and " no " escaped his lips. The princess used every art to make the interview pleasant, but all to no avail. The ladies blushed, looked at each other, started new subjects, talked together, as if to relieve the stranger, and yet could do nothing to make him feel at ease, or engage him in con- 256 LIFE IX THE FATHERLAND. atioa Suddenly the door opened again, and the if endowed with new life, sprang from his chair, darted out of the room with the velocity and vigor 01 a 5l of prey, and was seen no more by the laughing eyes that had long looked in vain for a poet " Do y<»u call him a poet?" said the ladi •• \ iid Princess Metternich, " that is the ; whom you have praised so highly, and you now see how differently a man looks from his books. I hope you are cured of your fancy to see a poet, and ihat you will never desire again to see or have one in your society." The first edition of Suiter's works appeared in volumes, under the title of " Studien " — Studies, '1' IS 15-51,) which was followed by his " Hunte Sleine " — C ^ed Stories, (2 vols., Pesth, and subsequently l>v his "Nach dem Summer" — After Summer, (P< 1S57.1 Both his poems and tales attracted universal at- tention, even in the exciting revolutionary yea and [849. He is admitted to be by far the best writer of fiction in Austria. His descriptions of natural scenerj the great charm of his works, and in his poems he fre- quently reminds the English reader 1. His main defect is his bringing inanimate nature too much into his characters, making his men sometimes more like a forest than human sociel In [849 h' 1 was appointed a School Counselor in Upper Austria He resided in the charming the Danube. If- s< I lom saw either teach* and only held his office h> name, and by the slend. LITERARY CHARACTERS. 257 it yielded. It was his great joy to sit at his cottage win- dow, overlooking an angle of the river, and spend his hours between watching the picturesque scene before him and recording his thoughts on paper or his pictures on canvas. Stifter had a profound contempt for his own material existence ; his heart was in the world around, and his own lips and pen would have been the last to re- peat whatever shade of romance may now and then have colored his life. He died at Linz in January, 1868, and his body, covered with flowers and evergreens by kind hands, was followed to his grave overlooking his own be- loved and beautiful Danube. 258 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. CHAPTER IX. ODDITIES OF THE NEWSPAPER, HOME, AND GRAYE-YARD. WII EN the American in Germany becomes sufficient- ly conversant with the language to read the jour- nals, he is constantly surprised at the curious announce- ments. At first one is apt to regard them as ridicul J hit after a time, when the simplicity and beauty of the home life, and especially the strength of domestic attach- ments, are fully comprehended, they assume a more seri- ous character, and the appearance of provincial oddity is found to be due to the primitive habits and traditions the rural classes. These peculiarities, however, are rapidly passing away ; even during my residence in Germai marked decline was perceptible, and in a lew years many of these peculiarities will disappear entirely. The following may be regarded lair specimens of some of the oddities of the present newspaper, and the h and grave-yard of the olden tin,. The announcements of birth, marriage, and death are made often in large type, .1! 1 onsiderable length, an.! by the appropriate persons. The editor seems to regard it proper to insert the notices just as present! 1 ' M rehill 11.I .111 article in tin- N - hv ili.it I- • <«n ihc quainl in. in life, John I | I tin " \: .:: 1 1 l NEWSPAPER, HOME, AND GRAVE-YARD. 259 The following is from the " Riesengebirge Bote : " — " After an illness extending over many years, it has pleased God to take up my dearly beloved youngest daugh- ter, Anna, into his heavenly kingdom, where we shall inter her soulless corpse on Thursday next, at 9 o'clock. " Master carpenter J. Sch ." A Leipzig paper contained this singular obituary : — " To-day death tore away from us for the third time our only child. L. A. V. and Frau." The " Chemnitz Anzeiger " had the following notice : — " Last night at half-past three God took to himself, dur- ing a visit to the grandparents, our only little daughter Antonie, of teething. School-teacher S. and Frau." Matrimonial solicitations are not a purely American in- stitution, as will be seen from this proposition in the Vienna " Presse : " " A soldier, forty years old, sound and strong, is tired of living alone, and would like to marry. He wishes a wife, twenty-five years old, affectionate, talented, and finely educated. Since he possesses nothing but his position, a fortune is perfectly necessary. But since he is thoroughly opposed to making love for money, he takes this way of making his wants known." Such a topic, however, cannot be expected to submit always to the dull method of prose, as these lines from a Danzig paper show : — Four men, in the best of years, (not aged,) With gold and land, and never yet engaged, Who've never fished for any maiden fair, And whose acquaintance here has been too rare, 12 26o LIFE IX THE FATHERLAND. Who long to put them :ath love's soft swi seek in this — a very well known way — Here perfect strangers in this little brave, an ; ijirls, and j>reity, •tie wives to carry home from here ; Therefore we beg our readei :ear, But send ad >ft the ca With portrait, to this paper's printing-] lace ; Fortune with them we And hereby vow to act with strict discretion. But such overtures arc not confined to o . it' we may judge from this confessed expression in the Berlin " Intelligenz Blatt," of March, A young la ; . i exterior and pleasant appearance wishes to marry a ntleman of just the same way of thinkit. The festivities of the peasantry on matrimonial and funeral occasions generally involve considerable i The following statement relates to inhabitants of the l< put of the Valley of the Inn, in the Tyrolese Al: •• A peasanl left a clear fortune of three thousand four hundred florins, and the funeral and the death -feast four hundred ami thirty florins ; another left three thous florins, and \\v before and for interment amounted to three hundred and four florins : another left four thou- sand one hundred florins, the funeral and feast cost four hundred and twenty-four florins : a fourth left one thou- sand and thirty-six florins, and th I amounted hundred and twenty-five florins. It pai itively, with those who have to earn their daily 1)1 vant inherited ne hun and twenty \\\r florins, and tin- I tin- funci in memory of the departed friend amount. ne hun- NEWSPAPER, HOME, AND GRAVE-YARD. 26 1 dred and eleven florins, leaving but fourteen florins for himself." The " Rheinische Zeitung" furnished, in 1869, this testimony to the qualifications of an executioner of the eighteenth century : — " I hereby certify that the executioner of Tecklen- burg, Joest Heinrich Stolheust, brother of the executioner Jligermann, some time ago beheaded with skill and to my especial pleasure Heinrich Schuerkamp, who was impris- oned in the Hellenborg ; and immediately after, during the time my brother was syndicus, skillfully hanged a per- son named Rotter, above the masses ; also, that in simi- lar duties people will be well served by him. Signed the ninth day of June, 1709." The following scale of fees given to mediaeval execu- tioners of Darmstadt and Bessungen has appeared in a number of the German papers : — fl. kr. To boil a malefactor in oil 24 00 To quarter a living person 15 00 To execute a person with the sword 15 30 To lay the body on the wheel 5 60 To stick the head of the same on a pole. 5 00 To rend a man into four parts 18 00 To hang a man or any delinquent 10 OO To bury the body 1 00 To burn a man alive 14 00 To wait upon a torture, if so called 2 00 To place in a Spanish boot 2 00 To place a delinquent in the rack 5 00 To put a person in the iron collar 1 oo To scourge one with rods 3 30 To brand the gallows upon the back or upon the forehead or cheeks. 5 00 To cut off a person's nose or ears . . . 5 00 To lead a person out of the country I 30 262 LIFE TN THE FATHERLAND. In addition to these cb; the executioner was gra- tuitously boarded, and usually received some douceurs besides. The Black Forest, Hart/ Mountains, and Ty: Ups are the chief districts where the doorways of the houses are superscribed with quaint mottoes. These are g erally in a pious vein. Here is one : — The Lord this dwellii it, And bless all who go in and out. Here is another, imploring Mary's help : — Mother of God, with g i inn Protect our beasts an a harm. This would suit any place as well as a house: — The love of God 's the fairest thing, The loveliest, this world can bri where, in vain 1 1. uli lived ; n.>r may to h kin. Anil this also : — The help of man is small, alL 1 [ere is a common one in northern Tyrol : — We build us b 'I'll. 'Ugh here we may not long abide ; But for tin- | Lake do thought to build a i This is in the same sail strain : — I iic Ir.-m 11 — NEWSPAPER, HOME, AND GRAVE-YARD. 263 The following is worthy any optimist : — The old folks to me they say The times grow worse from day to day. But I say no ! I put it so : The times are just the times we've always had, It is the people who have grown so bad ! This is less hopeful : — To please all men's a vain endeavor, And so it must remain for ever. The reason true I'll tell to you : The heads are far too many, The brains are far two few. The following, in two languages, is pithy. One pater- familias betrays a classic taste : — Qui sedificaturus est On the highway Debet stultum dicere Let as he may, Optat mihi omnis What he will, I don't care, Opto ei Just the same to a hair. The following has a pardonable smack of egotism : — Zura Stainer this house we call ; He who built it, roof and wall, Is Hans Stoffner by name, Full-handed, and of worthy fame. It is difficult to tell whether piety or pelf predom- inates in this : — I love the Lord, and trust his promise true ; I make new hats, and dye the old ones too. 264 LIFE IN Till-. FATHERLAND. I the inn mottoes runs thus : — Come within, and sit the* down : II cash ?. be off full soon ! le within, dear guest, I pray, If thou hast wherewithal to pay. An old inscription in Upper Silesia runs thus : — 1 have builded as I pleased. Let the envious man enter. If he dislike my style of building, no matter — my house is all the better for what it has cost me. Another gives a landlord's taste : — The kind of guest that I i Will have a friendly talk ; Will eat and drink and pay his score . then away will walk ! This from Lower Saxony has a touch of selfishness: — If your purse is filled with gold mr entrance hi ed be your going out It you pay your win, and beer. Inscriptions, however, are not confined to private dwell- ings or humble inns, but are met with over fountains and other public places. In my daily walk around the Anl at Frankfort, I used to pass a large pump, surmounted by a huge bust of a laughing Bacchus that bent beneath his burden of grapes, which bore this selfish couplet :— I d to US may mir drinking I The water to you, the wine to me. The quaint and simple methods of recording on the graves the manner iii which the departed had died. ver) familiar objects to pedestrian through the 1 retired pai is ol the I F01 instance, n< M NEWSPAPER, HOME, AND GRAVE-YARDS. 265 celebrated center of the Tyrolese grape cure, this epitaph is inscribed on a tablet which bears the picture of a man's head peeping out from under an avalanche, and a little Tyrolese scampering off to the left : — Here died Martin Kausch: The avalanche came and rolled Upon his body, and made him cold Also, J6rg under it was bound, But to-day is lively and sound ! Near by is another grave, over which is a tablet repre- senting the death of a woman by being run over by a heavily-laden wagon, with the words : — Here died Marie Wiegl, who Was mother and seamstress of children two. The following is found in the heart of the mountains. A picture, painted in glowing colors on the smooth face of a rock, represents a furious ox running his horns into a man, with this result : — By the thrust of ox's horn Came I into heaven's bourne ; All so quickly did I die, Wife and children leave must I ; But in eternity rest I now, All through thee, thou wild beast, thou ! Among the newer inscriptions in Austria is the follow- ing epitaph over the grave of the common goods-carrier between St. Gilgen and Salzburg. He went by the name of the " St. Gilgen Bote," and died in 1869: — Here rests in God, The dead St, Gilgen Bote ; To him be gracious, Lord, As he would be If he were Thou, And Thou St. Gilgen Bote ! 266 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. The posting of lampoons in public places is alwa-. very hazardous business in monarchical countries. If the perpetrator is discovered, the least punishment is impris- onment. The following example will be of interest to some future Austrian Macaulay. During the reign of the reforming Emperor Joseph II. the following was found on a wall : — A friend of arms, A foe to prii A hypocrite Our Kaiser is ! The Emperor, to catch the author, caused it to be torn down, and this to be put in its place : — The first is true. The second plain ; Of need the third , And to the author fifty du< :ue. But the trap failed, as is shown by this answer, which appeared on the following day : — l iur are we — Ten, ink, paper, and I ; I li other we shall not betray, So the Kaiser his ducats may \ IV. GERMANY IN FIGHTING MOOD. 12* A »pai f near two hundred and ten yean — so Ions ha> I -tood at bay with Borne! Not the 8amnlte, nor the repu - . :ior Gaul, >. Parmlan, has given such frequent lessons to the Boaun people. Thepowercifl - i formidable as Oerman liberty. Tl at their triumphs over Oaibo, Cassias, Bcaaras A-arellus, BervUlus < Kaolins — all . taken prisoners. With them the repnblio lost Sve consular armies; and siuw that time, In .a of Augustus, Varus perished with his Utreo legions. Caius Marius, it is tr feated the Germans In Italy; Julius Ceasar made thera retreal from • berios, and German leas overpowered them In i!i'.-ir own country; but how *1 did those victories cost us I The mighty pre riod an interval of pea ami the civil wars that followed, they stormed ••ur legions in their winter-quartet planned the conqui We did, indeed, force thorn I it from that time » hat baa been om- advantage 1 We hat e triumphed— bat 1 1 T \. : . Bfl brausst iin Bill rliall, - nwerdtgekllrr and WogenpraU, Zuui Bhetn, ram Bhetn, mm deataehan Bbain; Wer « ill dc - Lteb Vaterland magat ruhi_- - • aterland magat rohlg - i • steht and trm die w.i.ir. d Jteht und ireu die \\ '.. WAR A BUSINESS IN EUROPE. 269 CHAPTER I. WAR A BUSINESS IN EUROPE. WAR is the normal state of the continental nations. The total ordinary expenditure of the German empire is about ninety million dollars, and the army gets seventy-two million dollars of this ! Germany, Russia, Austria, and France live as if fighting were their only mission. Look, for instance, at the quick, but strictly- professional way in which those two mighty peoples, the Germans and French, went to searching for each other's throats in 1870. As I read the papers, I had continually before me the image of two great bears, which threw themselves on their haunches in a trice, and went to hug- ging each other to death. At the outbreak of hostilities, both countries were as well supplied with all the material of war, requisites for wounded and sick included, as we were after we had been fighting the South two years. As to men, they must have begun pretty much where we left off. There was no feeling the popular pulse, as with Lin- coln ; no evidence that either monarch depended alone on the sympathy of the masses for his success. France expected every thing of her historical army, and Prussia looked to hers and those of her noble sister States, to fight and win as surely as she herself had done at Konig- gratz. On both sides the soldiers had been trained in peace for their work ; the numerous arsenals had not 270 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAXD. known what it was to have a hammer idle, <>r a fire extin- guished ; ami, - the tOCSin sounded wai of railway-cars were thrown into an almost unbroken train to bring these disciplined f< e \>> fa< s the Rhine. Notwithstanding the constant j immei • it' troops there, and the coloring that standing armies give to every branch of business, and to all forms of social life, I never knew before what sort of a th : ■ standing army really is. In whatever country you find it, it is as one great and thoroughly trained soldier, fully supplied with every necessity at the nation's cost ; for whom harvests bend and mills grind, without his taking his hand from his smooth musket; obliged t<> ignore the rights of household and the high joy of his natural tastes, standing with weapon ready to level at another man in exactly his condition, with only different uniform or language, each drawing about eighteen cents for his daily wages, and both representing n ing all the while the most exquisite civil.: splendor each other's courts, decorating each other's citi- zens with all manner of titles of nobility, and each - in the other a giant, and warily waiting to take ad\ o! the bruise in the heel, or the unhelmeted spot in the ,iead. The army stands, but the natioi . with which the Prussian army is mobili is marvelous. To-night you leepinj mor- row you .ue <|t;.u tered with t: In is<><> the whole regular army, and the i the militia, v i the march to Austria in less than WAR A BUSINESS IN EUROPE. 271 weeks, and in the late war with France the German troops were on the Rhine in twelve days. Any fortnight Prus- sia can have seven hundred thousand troops on the Rhine, the Vistula, or the Adige. The method of mobilizing is thus described by Archibald Forbes : — The mobilization machine grinds its grinding in this wise. The whole country is divided into districts, in the central city of each of which are the head-quarters of the army corps recruited from that district. Thence is sent forth the edict for mobilization to the towns, the villages, and the quiet country parishes. The authorities there make out individual summonses, appointing day and place for the gathering, and these are left at the "respective places of abode" of the reserve men. Max has married, and children have begun to tod- dle around his modest table. He is in the midst of his harvest. Carl is to be married next week ; he has bought his humble plenishing, and the priest or the minister has been spoken to. Hans is just entering into partnership ; he has built new premises, and his presence may be essential to make the spoon— his absence will spoil the horn. Heinrich is on the eve of emigrating. His traps are bought, and his ticket is paid for. But the burgomaster's clerk, or the orderly corporal, comes round one pleasant summer evening, and serves on one and all a cer- tain bit of paper. Max, when he reads it, growls "Donner wetter," and actually lets his pipe out in the dismal pause that follows its peru- sal. Carl walks off with it to his sweetheart, and there is a blubber- ing match. But when the appointed day arrives, Max and all the rest come to the front — genuine children of the Fatherland. Max leaves the harvest in statu quo, kisses his Gretchen, and wishes her well in all her troubles, slobbers the bairns, and strides off to the mus- ter — the wallet on his shoulder, into which Gretchen has crammed a couple of shirts, a lump of schwarz brod, a few slices of schinken, and a coil of fearfully and wonderfully made sausages — a little unac- customed water in his eye, and a queer lump in his bare brown throat. Carl puts off his wedding indefinitely, and war becomes his mistress, vice the other fraulein, superseded for the time being. Heinrich LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. atriation, perhaps to enrich the soil of France wit tain phosphat product of the d< Hans n business and partner (an "exempt " let one ho; take their course; he for the lime has other fish I The con- tinent of the village, duly called over and found complel off toward head-quarters. By the way it meets other continj finally, as the rendezvous is reached, the several ,ts make quilt- a procession in traversing the si nized what a pure den ian army. In the same file walk the laboring man and . son, the fanmr's buy and the banker's clerk. And if you follow them till they their uniform, it is likely enough that you will find the labor- ing man, who already has his medals on his br Stripes round his throat, and the petty centuri his quo: superior, to whom i. 'Do this, and he doeth it.'* I m the rapid transition from peace to war I had an unpleasant experience. When the duel i i broke out, my domestic group were at 11 watering place on the Belgian i oast, whither we had -one I a while before making the up-country English tour. It was only a week .since we had left Frankfort, and barely a wh: of war was heard. Al Brussels, which is only a little Pi the people were in feverish excitement over an utter : elty — the candidacy of Prince Leopold for the Spanish throne. Finally, the news came that the candidacy had been withdrawn, and that France had the -Mat diplomatic vii I With the popular ieemed to think the raal led From Brussels we went ent and Bi , and then to chat mini; little II J ' After a I ♦ " M \ I IV A R A BUSINESS IN EUROPE. 273 of real war, and we hastened homeward, though forewarned of long detentions and all possible inconveniences. What passed under our observation, on the journey to Frankfort, was in direct contrast with the ordinarily quiet and unobstructed traveling on the continent, and with the peaceful life we had so lately witnessed by all the way- sides, and conclusive withal as to the healthy and universal enthusiasm of Germany in her hour of trial. Every Bel- gian I talked with, with one exception, sympathized with France. " If you withdraw from your neutrality," I said to one living near the Luxemburg frontier, "what side will you take ? " " Perhaps France, but never Prussia," was his answer. And it was one that expressed the result of about all my conversations with Belgians, both on the coast and inland. But what wonder ? Belgium is really a mere colony of France, speaks the same language, worships the same " Holy Virgin," and has the same traditions. The cars from Brussels to Cologne were crowded to suffocation. They were filled with Germans hurrying home from Belgium, France, and Great Britain, to take their place in the army as true sons of the Fatherland. They were at first quite reticent, but as we neared the Prussian frontier they became voluble, denounced Napo- leon's pretensions, and lauded old Germany to the third heavens. There was not the slightest difficulty in cross- ing the frontier into Prussia. Not a word was said about a passport, and a custom-house officer told me that I need not unlock my satchel. After reaching Cologne, our heavier luggage was dispatched almost as speedily. At 274 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. Aix-la-Chapelle, whore that old warrior-king Charlemagne sleeps in the historical and venerable cathedral, far beyond the reach of the strife and din of warfare, the self-foi ting and exultant patriotism of the people called to mind similar scenes I had frequently witnessed in New Jersey and New York during our late war. One lady in our car regarded it an honor that nine soldiers had been quartered in her house the night before. She expressed herself ready for every sacrifice, and rejoiced that King William was calling on all classes to unite in repelling the French invaders. The soldiers exhibited by every word a healthy confidence in the triumph of Germany. They spoke intel- ligently of the points at issue, and felt that if the war did nothing else, it would unite Germany — as, indeed, it did in greater measure than ever before. A good proportion of the private soldiers were highly intelligent and cultivated. No wonder. Every class was called out, up to forty years of age. No money COllld buy a substitute ; you would not know where to find one. The substitutes had to go themselves. The learned circles win broken up ; all educational institutions were for the moment forgotten. The professors vied with the students in hurrying under the fla We reached Cologne, after many delays, late at night At first there seemed no prospect of finding a hotel that could accommodate us, SO utterly filled was the city with soldiers and officers. I think it was. at tile fourth 01. which we applied that we first gained admittance. A short sol. i was all the bed 1 had in the third-rate inn. but h.r. adjusted myself t.> it as well as possible, I comforted my- WAR A BUSINESS IN EUROPE. 275 self with the hope that I would have better accommoda- tions the next night. A sweet delusion ! The next night I was destined to find in Mayence only the floor for my bed ! A few nights in that style would have accustomed me to the campaign and all, without standing on the muster-roll or firing a needle-gun. Of course, we could not leave Co- logne without visiting the Cathedral again. I had never seen so many worshipers in it before. Soldiers of all grades, the relatives and friends accompanying them, and little school-children, with their book-knapsacks on their backs, were drawn thither in the early morning by the sad part- ings — yes, the numberless possible sacrifices of the war. The following day I witnessed similar scenes in the May- ence Cathedral, whither I had wandered before breakfast. As all regular steamboat travel on the Rhine was broken up, we took the only train of cars running from Cologne to Mayence. The time should have been four or five hours, but the delays lengthened these out to ten or eleven. The whole way was literally through a mass of soldiers hurrying to the front. We could not run over a few miles before reaching trains carrying soldiers, guns, and all the requisites for a campaign. Then our train, while it was switching off, or backing, in order to pass them, would be overtaken by other military trains. At one time we became entangled in a perfect network of cars, and it was very clear for some time that nobody knew how to get our train out again. Here and there we passed great piles of broken cars — the wrecks of collisions — and learned that several deaths of soldiers and railway workmen had occurred within a few days, owing to the irregularity of 276 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. the trains, and the extraordinary draught made upon every body and thing connected with the road. This road — and the same may be said of all the German roads running tlic direction of the scene of war, all being government property — was in a moment turned into a great military artery for conveying the country's very life-blood to the needy extremity. We reached Frankfort the next day, but had to con- clude our journey by carriage, as the cars stopped long distance from the city. The citizens had become thoroughly Prussian within a short time ; for until the war, nothing had been able to obliterate their gru linst Prussia for absorbing their " Hanse city" during the Prusso-Austrian war of 1866. I found every department of life transformed. I'n tainty and motion were the new laws. My bills, which should not have come in for settlement before Jan 1 87 1 , were presented by breakfast time, by special mes- sengers. My coal merchant asked me. on my orderil winter supply of coal, if I would pay cash on delivery? It was something so new that 1 looked at him in snip not knowing at first what he meant, when a tinge mounted to his face, and he bun-led out, hesitatil ' first for something to say : " You know — in these war times — one doesn't know what — you know — things arc so uncertain." "O! yes, 1 understand. You are quite right" 11«- felt easj again alter .1 time, but his asking an old customer if the cash would be forthcoming, fairly made the ] tion i"ll from him. It was to him . it an undei ing as foi old \ r on Moltke to figure out the placin [ WAR A BUSINESS IN EUROPE. 277 enough Germans to chew up a French division. Every thing; was in motion. People talked faster than I could have believed possible. The blood fairly boiled in the German Michael's veins. People walked twice as quickly on the Zeil as they had done before the Spaniards had blistered their throats trying to pronounce Hohenzollern. Our file of street-sweepers, who so generally threatened to fall asleep over their work, now plied their brush be- soms as nervously as if they were sweeping an army of Turcos and Spahis into Lethe. At the Biirgerverein, our city reading-room, where I dropped in at five every afternoon, the people read the papers with at least double their usual speed. I always expected to find about a dozen familiar corpulent dozers here and there in the easy-chairs, with spectacles and pa- pers dropped beside them on the floor ; but I did not see one taking a siesta, to the best of my knowledge, after the fatal words that opened the brazen throats. Those ven- erable and usually torpid burghers were now galvanized, and flew from one journal to the other, devouring and digesting all as rapidly as a New York merchant will finish his morning paper. Indeed, the whole land seemed to have aroused as from a dream. There was bustle, life, quick perception, just as with us during the first three months of our war. All Germany was now living more, thinking more, doing more in one day than usually in two. The mighty energy that pervaded her victorious army passed into all the people it left behind to watch its steps, mourn its losses and rejoice over its triumphs. 278 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. CHAPTER II. (I! RMAN LITTERATEURS IN UNIFORM. — THE LANDWEHK WHENEVER war breaks out in Germany there is as much strain made upon the literary class as on any other. Many a busy pen must give way to swi.nl and needle-gun. German military law knows little dis- tinction or class of persons ; and the peasant fights by the side of the tradesman, author, and prince. Every man in the land must serve in the regular army from his twentieth to his twenty-eighth year, and no substitute is allowed. After having served out in the regular army, he is enlisted in the Landwehr for five years longer, where he is subject to call at any moment. When his time is out in the Landwehr, he is enrolled in the Landsturm until fifty. Here he is called out only in case of invasion. The slightest disability exempts from duty — fur Germany is economical as well as military, and wants not a expensive incubus in her army. In the late war, how- ever, few questions were asked, for it was a time 1 Enlistments came in freely from those whom the ex iminers had declared unfit for duty, and they were cepted. None were more eager and patriotic than the literary men — just as had 1 een the case in the War of Liberation, as told with peculiar interest by Steffens in his "Story of my Car er. M The universities wen- uni- illy ablaze with patriot itement The doors were GERMAN LITTERATEURS IN UNIFORM. 279 closed, and such students as were not allowed to enter upon military duty, associated themselves, with their professors, to go upon the battle fields to serve under the Red Cross banner of the Sanitary Corps. A professor in the University of Breslau attached the following notice to the door of his auditorium just after the war broke out : " Since the gentleman students have something bet- ter to do than to run to lectures, I hereby declare my lectures closed ! " Of the pleasant relations of professor and student in warfare, the following account of a correspondent in the army gives pleasing witness : " It gave me great pleasure one evening to meet an old student friend, Dr. Meier, now Professor of Law in the University of Halle, upon the suspension bridge between Corney and Noveant. The Doctor could not bear to see all his students going away, and he joined them as a recruit. He now marches with the reserves of an Erfurt regiment toward Paris, and not long ago arrived in Corney, in advance of his regiment, in order to procure quarters for it. Along with him was a tall young lieutenant, who had exercised him in drill. These two shared their room with me. But how happy they were ! It was charming ! The best of the whole story was the good relationship existing between the young officer and the old recruit. • No, my dear Profes- sor, now I must carry your cow-foot (needle-gun) a bit for you ? You can't carry it any longer ! ' ' Excuse me, dear Lieutenant, that would be against all the rules of subor- dination.' Notwithstanding this, however, the young officer persisted in carrying the Professor's needle-gun, 280 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. and listened intently to the legal wisdom that flowed from his old friend's lips. On the following morning Pr<»f< and Lieutenant helped each other in dressing and buck- ling on knapsacks and accouterments. They called every article by its classic name, and quoted with great gusto the very appropriate lines from " Wallenstein's Camp : " " Mit Tornister und Wehrgehang Schlieszt er sich an eine wui lige Meng." A few names will convey an idea of the authors who fell during the war. In Dr. Pabst, who was killed at Metz, Germany lost one of her most promising historians. He was still young, but had already accomplished much. While he was yet a student in the universities of Bonn. Berlin, and Gottingen, he wrote a "History of the Loi bardian Kingdom," which met with the most decided approval of the critics. He won his doctorate at Berlin, having written the treatise "De Ariberto II. Mediolanes primisque medii devi motibus popularibus." While th< he undertook at the same time the editing of Hirsch's "Jahrbiicher Heinrich's [V., M essentially supplementing the work by Ids own labors. After completing his university studies he devoted his principal labors to the " Monument* Germania Histori ." and much was expected from him for this work. He had a keen historical penetration, ami a thorough philological education. He undertook tlv animation of Italian historical sources, and was in b for the purpose of collecting material for lives of the Topes, when the war w.is declared by France lb- had already visited the Vatican, the principal libi GERMAN LITTERATEURS IN UNIFORM. 28 1 Naples and Florence, and the cloister and city libraries of many other cities in Italy ; fortunately, a part of these labors is preserved, in the author's manuscript, in the Ber- lin Library. He lost no time in returning to Germany to join his regiment, where he was universally respected for his soldierly bearing and courage. lie left Berlin, it is said, with a heavy heart, having forebodings that he would never return. On the same battle field fell Dr. Julius Brakelmann, formerly a student at Berlin, twenty-six years of age, and a valued writer on French literature and art in the col- umns of the Augsburg "Allgemeine Zeitung." He went through the Bohemian campaign of 1866, and after that had resided in Paris until the war. A son of the cele- brated Oldenburg poet, Julius Mosen, fell in the same engagement. He was a spirited young man, and had entered the army as a volunteer. He left his mother in great distress ; she will be remembered by many for her almost superhuman devotion to her husband during the last painful years of his life. The battle at Resonville took away a promising young poet of Berlin, Paul Herth, known to many readers by his translation of Longfellow's " Evangeline " into German. His short career gave every promise that he would have become renowned in Germany. He was born in June, 1842, at Golssen, and early devoted himself to the postal service. In his spare hours he engaged in the study of the modern languages, and with such zeal that in his twenty- second year he was master of nearly all the European lan- guages. He studied Sanscrit at the University of Breslau. LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. II I his chief attention to Spanish, Italian, S dinavian, and English literature, and became a contributor to the " Magazin fur 'lie Literatur d< lands," particularly on Swedish and Spanish literature. lie made the Danish campaign in [864, and the Bohemian in [866, returning from the field of I. an officer. lie belonged, in the German and French war, to the third Regiment of the Guards, in whose ranks he was struck b) two bullets, through the head and breast. He wrote numerous war songs, some of which have been published, while others are still in manuscript. His latest, entitled "Roses on the Battle Field," was published shortly bel his death. A well-known Saxon poet, Captain Adolph von Ber- lepsch, a member of the Dresden Literal. was also killed. The Trim ass Salm, whose heroic husl was likewise killed in the war, conveyed the b lepsch, her nephew, to the hereditary es iraily near Wesel. Berlepsch was a direct descendant of the knights who captured Luther, and conveyed him to the Wartburg Castle, where he translated tin- New L -lament, and passed by the name o| " Squin l An accomplished author on various Lieutenant Hoffman, also fell in tin- ranks, lie was one of the most venturesome and successful of the German litei imb- •f tin- T) rolese Alps. These feu cases will prove the high social ami inteil* ual standing of the German army. And I ".her proof, ti om a li\ ing lm^.n ofl I the b.uii edan, written in Sanscrit, with < the GERMAN LITTERATEURS IN UNIFORM. 283 Rigveda. It is a curiosity. It reads as follows, and is dated Sedan, the 2d of September, 1870: — " Hxo mahayud abhavat. Catravah sarve nirjitah, sarva tesham sena maharaja ca soayam, baddhah. Tvashtar no vajram soaryan tataksha ; ahauma 'him soarvilau gicri- yanam (Rigveda, I, 32.) Aham sukucalo 'smi, yuddhe na mahad bhayam gato 'ham, yad etasmin kshetre suparvate padataya eva yoddhum caknuvanti, turanginas 'tu na. 'rhanti. Mahatyam seoayam bhavatah cishyah." The following is the translation : " Yesterday was a great battle. The enemy were totally defeated ; their whole army, and the Grand King (Emperor) himself, taken prisoners. Tvashtar (Vulcan) forged for us the flaming thunderbolt. We beat the Ahi, (Python,) who crept away into his hole, (Rigv. 1, 32.) I am well ; in the battle I did not come into great danger, because in this very mountainous neighborhood only the foot soldiers are able to get well into the fight, not the riders." Von Thielemann, the author of this remarkable dispatch, is a doctor of laws, and in time of peace is judge in the Berlin Court of Appeals. He is a graduate of Leipzig, and, while there, was engaged in the study of the literature and lan- guage of the ancient Hindus. He made the campaign of 1866. His interesting Sanscrit report, above given, was published in the " Spener Zeitung," of Berlin, and naturally created considerable interest. Besides Dr. Von Thielemann there were at least five other excellent Sanscrit authors in the Prussian army, namely : Drs. Thibaret, Goldschmidt, Goeke, Pischel, and Richard Kiepert. 13 284 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. The most of the literary men fought in the Landwehr. The Landwehr was made up largely of heads of families. The French soldier is bred to the business, and never thinks of a home. The German soldier has a home and a group about his table. Some have said that the school- house marked all the difference between the Germans and the French in the late war. I believe this to be a mis- take, and that domesticity, and not education, underlay the great issue. Archibald Forbes says : — We have an impression among us — and I confess I shared it — that he makes the best soldier who is the most of an enfant / Cut your soldier off from all civil associations — no matter if from all associations of civilization as well ; make the army his trade, the bar- rack-room his home, and alternate the canteen with the low public- house as his chosen haunt. JLet ev< ry douce civilian 1> >dy wag his head in a half-kindly, half-chiding way over the soldier, regard him as more or less God-forgotten, yet still a tine fellow in his way, and capital food for powder. Let the soldier accept this view of himself, drink his pay, wax his mustache, and swagger about the world in p ac ii ne — and in war? Oi course your reckless scapegrace, with- out a tie in the world, who carries his life in his hand, is just the mm to make a dashing charge, to cover himself with glory, to start the bells a-ringing and the park guns a-firing, and— to drink himself to death with the multitudinous p"ts which a temporarily proud and grateful 1 ivilian population pr< ss upon his acceptance. Why? Wherefore should a man fight any better because he disreputable scapegrace? YOU talk of a stake in the country basing a tendency to stimulate patriotism in civil life. Why should the - not have the same effect in military? Whether do the " tears fall and blind " the soldier most, when the band strikes up " Th I leave behind me," if she be an honest woman, a true wife, and the mother of his children, or some dirty garrison trull hardly troubling him off in her anxiety 10 make the acquaintance i'( his sue- GERMAN LITTERATEURS IN UNIFORM. 285 cessor? In most of the printsellers' windows in London is an en- graving- representing a farewell between an officer and his wife, as he quits for foreign service. I often appreciated the true sentiment of Miliais' picture, yet nevermore so than during those early days when the mobilization mill was grinding. The husband, leaning from a car- riage window, stretches forth his hand, which the wife clasps in both of hers, gazing into his face in a speechless, yearning agony of part- ing. I witnessed the scene, with variations, dozens of times in town and country, in Rhineland. Now it was a sun-burnt woman with tanned cheeks, and deeper tanned hands, grim, thin-cheeked, and angular-featured, who gripped the hand of a slightly greasy, equally brown man in a blue slop, and boots slightly suggestive of small boats. But the look out of the eyes was the same as in the picture ; and the hussar officer had no fuller heart as the bell rang and the train started, than had the greasy landmann as he turned away with the broken muttered " Gott behiite dich," and pulled his cap over his eyes for a spell before he re-lit his pipe. Did the landmann fight any the worse, think you, because he had left behind him in the village the sunburnt frau and their young ones, than would your dashing devil-may-care, who goes jauntily away to the war with a laugh and a jeer ? I venture, for my part, to think not. * Early in the war the Prussian Government took meas- ures for the temporary support of the families and widows of the Landwehr; and the Crown Prince of Prussia issued a call for the founding of a fund for the support of the families of the killed and wounded soldiers. To show what "encumbrances" are attached to the Landwehr, we may add, that the second Prussian Regiment of the Guard, which was before Strasburg, left no less than seven thousand and three children at home ! In the early weeks of the war it was no unusual thing to see the Land- * " My Experiences of the War between France and Germany," vol. i, pages 18, 19. 286 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. wehr men carrying and fondling their children through the streets to the front ; though now the Government has prohibited these scenes to be enacted in the rank There is a poem by Ferdinand Roch, which was set to music, and was very much sung in German}- during the war, which gives a true picture of the German Land well r- man's taking leave of home. It is entitled "The Land- wehrman's Departure :" — " And now, dear wife, 'lis time to part ; I hear the bugler's blast outside ; Do not despair; be strong of heart ; Hi 11 guard you well in evil tide ! " Give me once more the youngster here ; My darling boy, one farewell kiss ! But eight days did — the blow's severe That makes me go from thee like th "The little rogue, he's smiling, see ! I'll take that as an omen 1 night ; No matter where, his face shall be re me in the thickest tight ! " The blast again ! — well, take him now; Protect my wife and child, < > 1 ,ord ! The hit is hard — but here I vow, ( in France shall fall my vengeance-sword ! " And if, my child, 1 come do m Thy mother thee will often tell, Among thai noble host I bore A soldier's part lor home — and fell ! "O! when will Cod bring on the day I li.it we shall lay our Standards down? Ala ' we hasten to the fray, But Vict'ry will our banners crown REVIVING THE OLD THEFTS. 287 CHAPTER III. REVIVING THE OLD THEFTS. — GERMANS UNDER VICTORY. A PECULIAR feature of the war was the reviving of the old grudges of Prussia against France. One careful German went to calculating the expense to which the first Napoleon put Germany during his supremacy east of the Rhine, the levies he made on the towns through which he passed, and what not, and claimed that these, with compound interest, should be reclaimed by Prussia from France. Another move in the same direc- tion was of a more literary character. German librarians busily employed themselves in ascertaining what literary and art treasures of value, that formerly belonged to Ger- many and were taken to France during the various cam- paigns, should be claimed back at the conclusion of peace. The Augsburg "Allgemeine Zeitung" called attention to a very remarkable work, dating from the twelfth to the fourteenth centuries, containing the poetical productions of one hundred and forty poets of that period, — kings, counts, knights, and singers without rank, — all known under the name of Minnesingers. The work is a clearly written parchment manuscript, with decorations and min- iature paintings, some scenes being of great beauty and vividness of color, and includes the most of the poems of the Minnesingers, among whom are mentioned the Em- peror Henry XII., King Conrad the younger, (Conradina,) 288 LIFE IN TJI1-: F. I THERLAND. King Wenzel of Bohemia, the Margrave of Meissen, Wal- ter von der Vorclweide, Wolfram von Eschenbach, the Tanhuser, Meister Gotfrit of Strasburg, Meister Conrad of Wurzburg, Heinrich von Osterdingen, and many others. The work is said to have been written by a certain R diger Manesse, ''whilom of the Council of Zurich." It surpasses in extent and beauty all similar works trans- mitted to Germany from its forefathers, and forms a testi- mony of the ancient German intellect than which, outside of the cathedrals, the land has nothing greater. The history of the famous work is given as follows : It first of all went into possession of the Swiss poet-family Sax, of St. Gall. A certain Johann Philipp von Sax was, in 1580, Doctor and Privy Councilor, as well as General of the Elector of the Palatinate, and from his widow the work reached the Elector's Library at Heidelberg. In 1623 Tilly took away the whole library, the manuscript in question along with it ; the collection first went to Rome, and later, Napoleon I. took it to Paris. In 18 15 a greater part of the library was returned to Heidelberg. But this portion was retained. It was again brought to light by the Swiss scholar, Bodmer, in 1748; a copy of parts was then taken; in 1758 a prettj pomplete copy was made, and the work printed. Subsequently, Frederick Henry von der Hagen had correcl copies, with many of the pictures, printed, in four large quarto volumes. Hagen spent many years of his lite upon the work. In the year [823, and SU quently, till 1838, he spent several months in Paris, in getting up a fac-simile of the manuscript, and having the pictures faithfully copied. REVIVING THE OLD THEFTS. 289 At the peace settlement between Germany and France, in 1 8 1 5, King Frederick William III. of Prussia, who took great interest in the work, endeavored to get possession of the manuscript for Germany ; but he was only able to get permission for German scholars to have access to it at all times. The city of Breslau, which claims one of the Minnesingers whose songs are contained in the manu- script in question, (those of Duke Henry of Pressela,) offered to exchange old French works for it ; but this was refused. It has remained in France to this day, and an Augsburg journal thinks it a favorable time now to claim it back again. "The work is for us," it says, "invaluable : for it is the reflection of the German spirit at the time of its greatest development of power. It is to the German nation what the old family Bible and ancestral paintings are. to the family." Not every one will see the force of this argument. If all the European nations were to give up the literary treasures which they have taken from each other by force, there would be no end to reclamations. How much would the Royal Library in every European capital have to part with, no one knows. Nothing during the war surprised me more than the calm and temperate spirit in which success was received. The first 'victory or two created no joy whatever, but rather a subdued cheerfulness, with a confidence in the further good behavior of leaders and army. We were com- ma: home from church when the official news of the vie- tory at Woerth had gotten well spread. The satisfaction, suppressed for ten days, was now finding expression, for even the German cannot conceal his gladness when under 290 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. more than three successive victories, and particularly such as those over France and a Napoleon! Whole families were out together; even multitudes of little children, clad in their christening robes and borne in their nurses' arms, had been brought forth to join in the jubilee. The black and white flag of Prussia, and the flag of the North German Confederation, were streaming from all the public buildings and theclumsv market-boats along the quays of the Main. Little knots of young men were devouring King William's last grateful and prayerful dis- patch to Queen Augusta. Did men, true children of I barossa, had crept out of their easy-chairs and down the crooked stairways, and rested on theii • every and then to drink of the overflowing gladness. There were no deafening vociferations, not a sound loud or harsh enough to grate upon a child's ear. There was no evi- dence that beer or a stronger beverage had a hand in the joy. It was just the most quiet, but not less hearty, way of treating victory I had ever seen. Hut, of course, the battles terminating with the surren- der at Sedan of eighty thousand <>f the enemy, with army material and commanders to match, brought out the peo- ple again. This time the holiday lasted about tv. culminating on tin- evening of the second. A placard, without signature, stood on all the street-corners on the ond day: "All patriotic citizens are ex illu- minate this evening." And the illumination came — n every house, but ^\ about even third one 1 Id's house was well ablaze, and people naturally thought of it. ami looU-d at it the longer, !■ \ insid REVIVING THE OLD THEFTS. 231 reflections going the rounds of the German papers in rela- tion to his patriotism. He was absent from his place at the extra session of the German Parliament to provide means for carrying on the war ; but afterward he and his family paid special attention to the wounded. His daugh- ter provided for a whole hospital. The monuments of Goethe and Schiller, and of the first printers, were cen- ters of rejoicing and pyrotechnics. The fireworks were not of the noisy kind, nothing louder than the smart whiz of a rocket. German ears will not endure any thing like firecrackers, except on the battle field, and then a pande- monium on earth is their very element. Processions of juvenile King Williams and Bismarcks, carrying Chinese lanterns, filed up and down the streets. It was indeed a general jubilee, perhaps unequaled since Waterloo, or even the last of the imperial coronations in Frankfort, so beau- tifully pictured by Goethe in his "Aus meinem Leben." What would naturally strike an American most favor- ably, was the perfect good taste and quiet of the celebra- tion. There was no intoxication or roystering. A New York gentleman, overlooking the busiest square that night, said to me : " Why, if this were Paris, the people would be standing on their heads from sheer delirium of joy." There was really less excitement, but no less real re- joicing, than in an American village on Independence Day. So one can wish his friends of weak nerves no better fortune than to be in Frankfort, or some other German city, the next time the world gets glad over the capture of a live emperor and his whole army. 18* 292 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. CHAPTER IV. HELP FOR THE SOLDIERS. N our war the Christian and Sanitary Coramiss : ons took shape wry slowly. But all Germany, as the late war was declare 1, fell into tv. the fighters and their helpers. The professional nun institutions immediately assumed a military form, and the voluntary enlistments from both 1 from day to day. Even boys of fourteen joined the Sanitar) lint-picking became the fashion in the thatched and the most luxuriant drawing-room. The rece] the wounded at the stations was always an ovation. The densi of enthusiastic spectators interfered often with the regular work of the corps, and the bravos fairly deafened one. German and French received alike friend- ly treatment here. The railway stations had supplies bandage-linen, drinks, f 1. beds— every thin--, indee wounded man needed— and ) as the train an with the suffering, you saw physicians and ni f all hurrying to do all that could he done for their relief. Every one engaged in the of the sick and woun was distinguished by a little white ban with a cross in the middle- of it. around tl. the e, bow. Volunteers were received for a loi time - '" opportunity. In the battle oi Wo some noble German women w< HELP FOR THE SOLDIERS. 293 the thick of the fight, and drag the wounded into the rear, where death might be retarded or prevented by their, timely aid. The voluntary contributions for the sick and wounded did not amount, in individual cases, to as large sums as occurred in our war, but the number of smaller offerings was much larger. A thaler or half thaler, or even less, was the rule. All names and contributions were published in the journals, and given the widest publicity. The poor gave as much as they could, and showed where their sympathies lay. All were touched by gifts from abroad, though not one of them went quite so far into their hearts as the mill- ion dollars from their countrymen in St. Louis. But all tokens of American sympathy touched them profoundly. The German looks upon the American as his brother, and the future of America as in a great sense his own. In the German army there is no such an organized and powerful measure for the spiritual care of the troops as corresponded with the Christian Commission in our late war. If the war had lasted as long, or even a fourth as long, as ours did, something of that kind might have been expected ; but much opposition would have had to be overcome before making the whole army accessible to practical Christian literature by a great agency of this character. A considerable part of the public press would have opposed it ; the prevalent theology was, and is, in conflict with such measures ; the mass of the clergy would have stood aloof with indifference, if not with opposition. One of the German papers, a real molder of German opin- 294 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. ion, the " Weser Zeitung " of Bremen, contained these words, against tract distribution to the .soldiers: - We saw tracts in the hands of some; these had been slipped into their hands on the way. They contain thoughts on death. Now, this is certainly very foolish, since it is all-important that just these people should be kept alive, and, unqu tionably, more cheerful reading would have a much better effect than such sermons to people who have already faced death." This effusion found, however, a speedy antidote in the columns of another Bremen paper, the " Courier." Much was done in an individual way for the spiritual interests of the German soldiers. Religious societi within the State Churches accomplishe i what their means allowed The influence of the various denominations out- side the Slate Churches was most salutary. The most gigantic religious agency, however, in behalf "I the German army, was the British and Foreign Bible Society. No barriers were placed in its way, for does n I every German ruler know that his country owes every thin g >" ,1k ' Bible ? X.. sooner had the war broken out than the British .md Foreign Bible Society gaveord itsagent in Paris, M. de Pressense, to put a fon j. porteursin the field, and supply the French army with Testaments. Similar instructions were given to tin- S ciel ent in Germany, the Rev. G. P. Dai divided his time between Frankfort and Berlin, and these twocities, with Colo of operation. It was • undertaking to supplj arm ) "' nearly two millions ,,f men already, or soon t.. in-. HELP FOR THE SOLDIERS. 295 under marching orders. But the Bible distributers went to work in good earnest, distributing to the troops on their passage through the cities toward the front. Here are some of the experiences of the colporteurs, in their own words : — " On Sunday, the Sixty-first Regiment of the line passed through Berlin, and halted for a few hours. With longing hearts they inquired for the Bible-colporteurs, but found none. Just as they were about to leave, one soldier took out a worn, yellow printed leaf from his pocket, and, holding it up high, said to his friends and relatives from whom he was taking leave : ' Look, this is a leaf of an old Bible ; no one has come to give us God's word, and this is the only portion of it with which we march into battle, and perhaps to decth.' Since the in- cident occurred, we have trebled the number of our men, and now, if we can help it, no company of any regiment passing through shall march to battle, perhaps to death, with only a torn leaf of the Bible as their only consolation in the thick of danger. " The work takes place under the most unfavorable cir- cumstances that can possibly be imagined. The troops have often not a quarter of an hour to stay, and then there is a rush for the meat and drink which they receive for nothing ; and it is in the midst of this hurry and scuffle that we have to ask them to buy God's word ; and yet in one single day, among regiments which I could only ad- dress in this way, I sold more than three hundred copies. The principal difficulty is to catch the attention of a few men to begin with ; when this is done, they show the LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. book l " !i id the good news abroad, and then the difficulty is, on my part, to supply their wants. I do not mean to say that I am never rebuffed, but such is my general experience. One ni| clock, I was walking not far from the Potsdam Railway Station, and observed a gathering of troops. ' It would be a ni li)iil - I said to myself, 'to supply these people with I i >d's word.' No sooner was it thought than it was I hurriedly fetched m) books, which r had left for such surprises in a neighboring house. 1 was in time to catch some of them before they had got into the can Although they were burdened with heavy knapsacks, and it had become so dark that they could not see what they were buying, I kept selling even alter the train u in motion. [ heard that other trains were I pass, [hur- ried to the depot at ten o'clock at ni 1 1 and remained at work till midnight On this evening I sold two hundred and fifty copi 1 he plan found to work best in distributin I 1 troops was to sell to the soldiers in the held, and the prisoners and wounded. There were at one time in Germany about one hundred and twenty thousan I ch prisoners, and measures were adopted to supply them all with the Scriptures. The French wounded in Gerraai were nol forgotten. The Turcos were general])' -lad 1 read the Gospel, and it was the first time they had ever had the opportunity of doing it. The numl I . I estaments, and pari ributcd during the months of tie- war, was between l . K '| and two hundred and fifty thousand. I HELP FOR THE SOLDIERS. 297 furnish five thousand copies a day. The agents of the Society kept right in the rear of the armies. Nancy, Saarbri':cken, and Sedan, were the centers on French ter- ritory. The universal testimony of the colporteurs was, that the soldiers were glad to get the Bible. Mr. Davies said at the time : " We are not forcing the books on the men ; they urgently beg for them. Last Sunday, the first thing I saw, on entering a hospital in Frankfort, was a Turco deeply absorbed in his Arabic New Testament, which we had given him a week or more before. Germans, French, and Arabs, are alike in the joy with which they receive God's Holy Word. ... It may give you an idea of what war brings with it for the agents of the Society, when I tell you that in the last two months I have spent twenty-three nights in railway carriages, or sleeping, cov- ered by my railway wrapper, on loose straw." The British and Foreign Bible Society also provided for the distribution of the Scriptures throughout the armies of Holland and Belgium, which, although not engaged in the war, were placed on a war footing, and were on the frontiers, guarding their neutrality. The agents at Brus- sels and Amsterdam were instructed to this effect, and distributed the Bible to the Belgian and Dutch soldiers. 298 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. CHAPTER V. THE PULPIT AND THE PRESS IN THE WAR. T~^ UROPEAN Governments hold a tight rein on all -*— ' the forces entering into warfare. War is decided by cabinets, not by the people. Sometimes the two pull apart, as when the Prussians protested in every possible way against the war of 1866. But the Government has always weighed its case well before the public ear hears a suspicious whisper, and, war being decided on, the next point is to use every available agency to make it a succ This thing of bringing man, brute and block, into play is one of the most perfect pieces of European machinery. " If we are to fight," it seems to be said, "in all the land there must be nothing that shall not shoulder a musket " The first Sunday after war is declared the pulpit eel. the Government order, and continues to do so until Gov- ernment says: "Stop! You've said enough; the war is over!" But it is easy to see, as you listen to the sermons, whether the hearts of the clergy are with the war — wheth- er their patriotism has been touched. Of course, in the late war thru- was no doubt on that point The German clergy woke up one Sunday morning and found a French army threatening to cross the Rhine, and their lov< Fatherland gave them unwonted eloquence A young man said to me : " The minister we have is .1 | reacher ■ — that is. In- preaches good war sermons." Accordin PULPIT AND PRESS IN THE WAR. 299 all accounts, on the clay of fasting and prayer throughout Prussia, at the outset of the war, there were greater dis- plays of real eloquence, the hearts of the congregation were more deeply moved, than at any time since Water- loo. In Frankfort the churches were crowded — a strange sight ; and the people wept like children — a still stranger sight. The state of things was very threatening, and the clergy saw it, told the people so, and all felt and wept together. And so every sermon was on the war. The bereaved had to be comforted, and the popular spirit kept in righting trim. Sometimes a plain text was made to do odd service. I heard a Reformed minister apply the words, " Hold that fast which thou hast, that no man take thy crown," to the necessity of continued German heroism to prevent the French from invading and destroying Germa- ny. The sermon was excellent, came from a sympathetic heart, and suited the people. Dr. Goldschmidt, a Jewish pastor of Leipzig, enlightened his flock and supplemented Plutarch by a parallel between Balak and Napoleon III. There was no Schleiermacher in Germany, however, and no sermons gained a national reputation ; but the congre- gations in various localities were so pleased with what they heard that printed sermons soon occupied a promi- nent place in the bookstore windows. The press of Germany did noble service in the war. The old differences that had divided the leading organs disappeared at once, and the Main no longer served as a landmark. The editorial department lacked the dash, elaborateness, originality, and freedom of the American press in our war, but the tone was fearless and chaste. A 300 LIFE IN THE l\ i THERE. IND. few large papers, such as the Cologne "Zeitung," the Augsburg "Zeitung," and a couple cf Berlin journals, supplied points for the world of smaller fry. But even the best journals were poorly served with correspondence from the seat of war. Nearly all the details came through the English papers. As to full and satisfactory descrip- tions of battles, and that by telegraph, the thing was not known. Neither did they come by post. In fact, they were not written ; or, if they were, they were reserved for printing in quieter times. The best thing I found in a German paper was an account of the battle of Saar- brucken by a soldier who took part in it. The New York papers alone had more news going to them from the seat of war than was written for all the German papers put together. But the Government took pains to let the p< pie get the general news as soon as possible. What trans- pired under -'Our Fritz," and "my own direction,- and King William's prayer for "God's further merciful help," were printed on buff paper and posted on bulletin boards, erected in the most public thoroughfares and crossings. The newspaper "extras" had up-hill work against this official measure, but still found a sale— at one kreut/er. or two thirds ofa cent. It is bm justice to the official bulle- tins to say, that they never failed to give the French I The communication of information by non-official per- sons took quite another shape. A number of new ill trated periodicals on the war were started, and these sold wdl - Ma P s of ;i11 sizes of the seal of war were a princi- P al source "' revenue to the booksellers at this tfm These, with a whole army oi books on tactics, care of t. PULPIT AND PRESS IN THE WAR. 30 1 wounded, fortifications, gunnery, military history, King William, the Crown Prince, Bismarck, Von Moltke, good Queen Louisa, and others ; volumes great and small of songs that suited the conflict ; new editions of Arndt, Klopstock, Korner, Uhland, and. Freiligrath ; music of all degrees of merit, with battle-scenes for frontispieces ; portraits of all the leading personages of Germany in any wise connected with the war — these, and similar produc- tions of the hot conflict, were the staple that the book- sellers relied on for profit. The dry goods merchants covered up the beautiful dress-patterns in their great bow- window's by dazzling displays of black, blue, and gold bunting. The boys wore uniform, and whipped McMa- hon, Bazaine, and the rest through the narrowest alleys. The German lampoons and caricatures multiplied, and in every case I saw they were directed against the Imperial family, and not against France generally. The Emperor was always represented as in some state of perplexity and suffering. In one colored caricature he was wrapped in swaddling-clothes, and helpless in the hands of Satan, who looked down in admiration upon his favorite child. In another, the whole family were going around, exhibiting a panorama of the war, the Empress serving as lecturer, and the Emperor as agent. In another, Napoleon was sawing wood for his bread. In another, a Prussian, with spiked helmet, was wheelbarrowing him into the Rhine. And so on ad infinitum. These caricatures, with all man- ner of squibs, found a good sale. The Turcos almost always played some part in the picture, as cannibals or little less. LIFE IN THE FA THERLAND. CHAP! ER VI. A SATURDAY AMONG THE FRENCH PRISON] D V a ride of less than an hour by rail from Frankfurt, -*-* I reached Mayence one Saturday, for the purpose of spending an hour or two among the French prisoners in that place. Mayence being one of the great fortifica- tions of Germany, and not far from the French frontier withal, it was one of the most important bases of opera- tions, centers of supplies and reinforcements, and depots for tlie wounded and prisoners, during the whole war. In crossing the Alain, there was time for only the most hasty glimpse at the beautiful statue of Charlemagne that stands in the middle of the oldest bridge over the river, and stretches out its grasping hand Franceward, as if pro- phetic ol [870. We were soon enveloped in a foi in autumn tints. On emerging, the whole Taunus range, with its complement of mediaeval towers, lay off at the right, while in front the valley widened until the yellow Main lost its murky waters in the clear, blue, and ever- cheerful Rhine; and Ear in the distance, in front, stood the northernmost outlying spurs oi the now anew his- torical Vosges. The busy peasantry were going over their fields for the last time before their winter rest, and were aided by a good number of French prisoners, who still won- their red trousers and caps, and seemed perfectly at heme on their new soil. p.. a government regulation, AMONG THE FRENCH PRISONERS. 303 the French prisoners were required to till the fields, or engage in any occupation which suited them best, and the hire for them went into the State treasury — a most eco- nomical arrangement for Prussia, and one that the French seemed generally glad to submit to. When our train began to thread its way through the labyrinth of earthworks and all manner of fortifications, and crossed the cropped knoll near Castel, where the old Roman fortifications still stand, it was clear that we were nearing the Rhine. Soon we were over the river, try- ing to find our path through a world of soldiers, officers, travelers, and artisans, into the winding streets of old Mayence. The first sight that, at this time, would naturally strike one at all acquainted with the demure aspect of Mayence in time of peace, was the unwonted life that war imparted to it. One would think the whole German army was less than a dozen miles away. French prisoners walked up and down the streets, and loitered on the squares, as if they had been born and brought up in the city. Only when large bodies were together was there any guard over them, and even then there seemed little or no restraint. I stopped and talked with them at will, and they seemed glad to have the opportunity to answer a question or two, and tell the history of their disastrous campaigns. The prisoners were generally engaged in some kind of work for the citizens, and their briskness and mobile faces would have revealed their nationality even if they had not been clad in red cloth. They seemed contented, and some even cheerful, and regarded their military misfortunes as the Hi 304 LIFE IN THE F. I THERL. WD. joint work of poor generalship and treachery. Few were so poor as to do Louis Napoleon reverence. While I was standing for a moment at the corner of one of the broadest and straightest streets, an immense body of new prisoners, fresh from defeat and capture, was marched on one side of the street in one direction, while the other side was as well packed with a moving- mass of their brethren, who had suffered the chagrin of captivity a little longer, and were probably on their way for some place farther east. Outside of Mayencc, in one of the suburbs, there was the prisoners' camp. It was on a hill, and overlooked the city and the Rhine and Main valleys. On the day of my visit there were in this camp and other parts of Mayen thirty-two thousand prisoners, or thereabout, as I learned from German officers. No one but the authorities placed over the prisoners was permitted to enter the camp ; but on one side of it the railing was down, preparatory to putting up new, and any one who happened to pass at the time could see the camp, and even talk at leisure with the prisoners, without interruption by the guards. The ap- parent absence of all pressure, the care which seemed to I-' taken by the authorities that no undue restriction bo placed over the prisoners to remind them of their captiv- ity, scorned to pervade the very air. I witnessed several familiar conversations between prisoners and the officers in charge of them, and scarcely a word was uttered that could suggesl the difference between prisoner and captor. I should have thought the whole community a lamih of Overgrown h-.\ l, 1 lad in blue and red. The camp consisted chiefly <>\ linen tents, but th< AMONG THE FREXCH PRISONERS. 305 were now giving way to strong board ones, with roofing of cement cloth. There were many Turcos of all shades, from white to black. I saw some as black as my hat — tall, graceful, respectful, and of the most intelligent cast of face. They courted the sunshine, and, like our South- ern Sam in winter, had evidently the full supply of their wardrobe on their backs. Some of the Turcos were of less elevated type, but their average was as favorable as that of their fellows of fairer face. That the prisoners conducted themselves well, was the universal testimony. The prisoners from the newly-capitulated fortress of Schlettstadt had just arrived at the Elizabeth Fortress, and their reception was naturally a matter of considerable excitement. I was attracted by an immense crowd of prisoners in the middle of the court formed by the tem- porary barracks, and found, on approaching it, that a great wagon, laden with soup, was the center of interest. The soup was in big barrels, and it was distributed in great wooden pails ; but it was most welcome to the weary and half-famished prisoners, many of whom betrayed, by their features and general bearing, that they had been used to more delicate fare and richer service. The higher officers were very silent, and only conversed with the German officers when spoken to. They were clearly most unwilling guests, and one could discover a lurking, profound con- tempt for the country to which they had been brought, and for those who had arrested their opposition to Germany. The German soldiers were very tired of the war. Not one I saw seemed to wish it continued ; all shook their heads when reference was made to Paris and a winter 306 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. campaign. One fine-looking Prussian, who had charge of a section of the prisoners' camp, told me that he had a brother in " Brukeleen," (Brooklyn,) and that if he had been in Germany, he would have had to fight, too, in the ranks. When I told him of the service the Germans had rendered in our war, and how many of them had fought in our army, and how the sympathy of almost all Americans was with German}- in her war, he had no language for his joy. I have often thought, from repeated conversations, that about every other young German man or woman of the lower classes is fully expecting to come to Amer- ica some day, and is saving money for that purpose. Fully nine out of ten have friends here, and a letter from one of them often circulates for months from village to village, until the complete circle of relatives anil acquaint- ances have read it. Some of these missives I have seen, so soiled and worn as to be almost illegible. They all tell the same tale of American freedom, and do their quiet work ol turning other eyes toward the great land beyond the sea. When the late German and French war was over, there was a new rush from Germany for our shores. Public security was regarded afresh in Europe as too capricious and uncertain a thing tor any one of slender means who can find a country where war and peace Ao no1 depend upon an individual, but on the judgment of the nation's representatives. But, alas! how many a brave fellow now sleeps beneath tin- daisies ..i" France who never lived to realize his fondest aspirations- the enjoyment of a home in the land three thousand miles westward ! V. KNAPSACK AND ALPENSTOCK. 14 . Wcr reisen will, Der sehwoigc siill: Geir slctcn stritt : Ni-hlll" lliilit virl Illit - Sn hraucht er iiicht zu surgvn — (Jnd geb ■ r *hl fr ill am Morten. PHILANDER VON SlTTBWALO. Mi German jaunts have been n period, the most healthy and active, thi- must Intel and anxious, and all nf thein the most joyous of my journeying days. In all parts and from every class, I rnel with honc&ly almost throughout, with tlie homeliest courtesy vcrj ami with friendship far warmer, 1 blush i" say, than an unknown wandering German have irol in Britain. I could not help bidding farewell to the hospitable Bhores and kindly inhabitant* i>f Ger- many, north and south, easl nud west, with a multitude of grateful feelings to God an ami with many reminiscences, i» which sincere and affectionate regret were apparent for Uie lime. And, even now. I make it my last sentence, as I trust it is my abiding sentiment, thai I inn fond of Germany and the Germans; and may health and happiness plenty . ever I"- « itli them all ! The Pedestrian, " Etoin v7krks t - - Germaht^ Icfort-nm-Maln, I THE TYROLESE ALPS. 309 CHAPTER I. TOWARD THE TYROL. LEFT Zurich, in eastern Switzerland, one mid-July ■*■ for the purpose of making a pedestrian tour in west- ern Switzerland and the Tyrol, and was favored with the company of the Rev. Mr. Wortman, of the Reformed Church, Schenectady. We had provided ourselves with the necessary outfit. It consisted of as few articles as possible — nearly all of which, even the stockings, were woolen — packed in knapsacks, and ready to be strapped on the shoulders. Alpenstocks of strong ash, about seven feet long, and pointed with good iron spikes ; broad- brimmed hats ; high laced-shoes, trebly-soled and gen- erously peppered with hob- nails, completed our prepara- tion for a long foot-journey, and gave us a completely Alpine appearance. With our scanty supply of baggage we designed to ascend the most interesting glaciers of the Tyrol, and go southward as far as Lake Como, Italy, and eastward as far as the great highway from Innsbruck to Verona. Our knapsacks became very heavy many times, and often, in ascending a mountain, or following a long and tortuous path to a glacier or a waterfall, we were very willing to intrust them to the most thievish-looking mountaineer to carry them a mile for us. But we seldom had any relief in this respect, and became accustomed to our knapsacks, just as a man gets used to his heavy winter 310 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. overcoat. There were short sections of the tour i ■which it was better to ride than to walk, for, by this means, much time could be saved, and no object of interest lost. The road from Zurich to Ragatz presented a varied scene of land and lake, and a very watchful eye was requisite in order to use the prospects to advantage. Ragatz is chiefly remarkable because of the baths of Pfeffers, which are about an hour's walk up a valley back of the town. The Tamina river runs down the valley, and this is such a beautiful stream that the pedestrian, in admiring its bank, is apt to forget the curious gorge where it takes its origin. Finally, the large building where the baths are situated is reached. There you must take a ticket in order to be led to the gorge and the hot spring. Having gained the board walk, which was well guarded by a strong balustrade, we passed along the contracting Tamina until it was nearly hedged in, ami rendered all invisible in man}- places, by the t wering mountain sides that almost meet above, and <>nlv permit a few ra J even the noonday sun to reach down to the troubled sur- of the imprisoned river. The passage becomes nar- rower at almost every step, and one is irresistibly reminded of some of the dark passages which Haute describes in his " Inferno." Wherever there is a little soil on a rocky shelf, a tree o| the deepest green has taken root and ots up its slender form to meet the light. Flowers here and there find room to grow ; but they seem I somber products oi some other world than this. Then times when one wishes to have nothing to say to his guide, no matter how worth} he may be, and this was one of THE TY ROLES E ALPS. 31 1 them in my case. He talked very volubly, but observing our silence, after many efforts at conversation, he came closely up to me, and put his arms around me. It was an unexpected evidence of affection ; yet it was also an excel- lent opportunity for one to pitch the other into the stream, and how did I know but this total stranger had been over- taken by a sudden attack of insanity ? After I had got- ten rid of his embraces he said : — " I am a good man ; I am not like common guides ; trust me, and I will tell you all about this wonderful thing." " Talk on," I replied ; and he did talk with a velocity equal to that of the mad Tamina, on whose dangerous margin we were walking. I suppose he meant well enough, but, like many of his fellow-beings, he had a very queer way of showing it. From Ragatz we went to Coire, and from there, as far up the Splugen Pass as the Via Mala, which is the Alpine gorge whence the Rhine takes its departure. At the en- trance of this most appropriately named defile there rises abruptly a high mountain, crowned with the ruins of a very old castle. But the mountains on either side rise higher as the valley is ascended, and their precipitous sides ap- proach more closely. All vehicles and pedestrians must, in one place, pass through a tunnel. The most interest- ing part of the Via Mala commences at the first bridge, which crosses the young Rhine so far above its surface that the bridge seems as if poised in the air. Passing over the unfrequented Schyn Pass, through which the Albula hastens to join the Rhine, we reached Tiefenkasten. Before arr ving at this place, however, we 312 LIFE IX THE FATHERLAND. were compelled to stop at a most forbidding inn. It was not easy to tell how long the smoke of bad tobacco had been lurking in its dining-room, and when the hostess had made her toilet. The best thing she could think of to offer us was garlicky sausage ; but we suggested boiled eggs, always the best resort when there are any doubts of cleanliness. So, on black bread, a little honey, the execra- ble sausage, and the eggs, we feasted. Worn out with fatigue, we had scarcely finished our meal before we had fallen asleep on the old clothes amid the trumpery that lay scattered on the rough benches of the miserable room. But there never was sweeter sleep in a palace. How rap- idly one's fastidious notions disappear in travel ! We were soon prepared to sleep almost anywhere, and cat food that would be intolerable at home, and not provided for in the cookery-books of any of the Blots in Christendom. We went through the long valley of the Oberrhcinsthal, where we spent the night in an hotel on the bank of a very beautiful waterfall. The next morning we crossed the Julier Pass. Here we fust came in contact with snow, and were compelled to wrap our shawls closely about us when- ever we rested. ( >n descending, the Engadine Valley, with its deep blue lakes, picturesque villages, and fringe of glaciers, suddenly burst upon us. We .spent the Sab- bath in the town of Saniaden, ami the following day on tin- tup of the Bernina Pass, whence we descended into Italy its tar as the vile town of Tirano. Turning north- iin we reached the Stelvio Pass, and there came in i mil. nt with huge snow-drifts. We won- in the Tyrol. THE TYROLESE.— FIRST VIEW. 313 CHAPTER II. THE TYROLESE AND THEIR MOUNTAINS. ~*HE Tyrol, which is the great Alpine province or -*- crownland of Austria, is one of the most interesting portions of Europe, whether we regard its history, natural scenery, or the customs of the people. This " great natural rock fortress, approached only by narrow defiles or passes," was settled by Etruscans and Rhastians. Afterward it fell into the hands of Rome, and continued under its suprem- acy four centuries. Subsequently it was for a long time independent, being controlled by its own princes. Mar- garet Maultasch — "Pouting Meg" — was its last native ruler, and, dying childless in 1363, she bequeathed her country to the Duke of Austria, Rudolph IV., of Haps- burg. Singularly enough, the people quietly submitted to this arrangement, and have ever since exhibited a love of their monarchical government quite in contrast with their Swiss neighbors west of them. More than once the Ba- varians and French have invaded the Tyrol, and occasion- ally it has been for a considerable length of time under foreign rule. In 1805 Austria was compelled to cede it to Bavaria ; but the Congress of Vienna, which attempted to make Europe what it was before Napoleon I. appeared, returned it to Austria. The Tyrolese still retain the peculiar customs of their forefathers. They are clad in the same odd costumes of 314 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND the past centuries, and to all appearance will do so for many a year to come. The women wear broad-brimmed, high-crowned, black fur hats. In some instances the hats are of heavy felt, but generally they are of long, shining fur. These are worn alike in the markets, the vineyards, and the hay-fields. With the exception of the odd hat, there is generally nothing peculiar in the dress of the women. But the dress of the men is fantastic through- out. There is, first, the high, cone-shaped, black felt hat, ornamented with a very broad band and a little bunch of natural or artificial flowers, or a feather of a chicken or turkey. You seldom see a man without the flowers or feather, or both together, in his hat. The coat is adorned with an abundant supply of broad binding ami bright but- tons, designed to be as much in contrast as possible with the color of the cloth. The pantaloons, usually of black buckskin, are surmounted by the greatest of all the orna- ments — a very wide leather girdle, covered with stitched figures, which must have taxed the time ami ingenuity of the manufacturer to devise. Then the long, closely fitting stockings reach to the knees, while the shoes arc low, and usually fastened by a buckle. This is the chief dres the Tyrolese when engaged in labor through the week; but on the Sabbath, or festal days, they wear a dress of the same general peculiarities, though of much finer material, ami of even more brilliant colors and strange contrasts. Tin' Tyrolese are ardently devoted to music and danc- ing, and whenever a holiday occurs whole towns and'vil- . quit laboi and engage in the sports, which have suf- THE TYROLESE. 315 fered as little change as the costume through the lapse of time. Rifle-shooting and gymnastic exercises are the universal sport of the men — an exercise which the Gov- ernment takes good care to encourage and surround with as many charms as possible, as it is of great influence in making strong-bodied soldiers. The people are as rigid and blind Catholics as can be found in the Papal States. You are scarcely ever out of sight of a crucifix ; it is easy to see a dozen at once peering above the vines and hay. They occur at intervals of only a few rods on the sides of all the roads, in the streets and dwellings of all the villages and towns, flanking the narrowest mountain paths, and crowning the glacier summits of the highest passes. The crucifix is always adorned with a bountiful supply of red paint, which, from its peculiar hue, never failed to remind me of the pokeberry juice of juvenile days. This, of course, is designed to represent the blood profusely flow- ing from the brow, the hands, the feet, and the side of the Crucified. Little chapels are frequently met with, and generally stand on the hill-top. We found the glaciers lying around in friendly juxtaposi- tion, like great sleeping polar beasts. The sky was unusu- ally clear. Leaving our knapsacks near the road to take care of themselves for awhile, after my traveling companion and I had passed Ferdinandshohe — the highest permanent human habitation in Europe — we climbed the high peak to the left. The reward was well worthy of the half-hour of difficult ascent. The really immense glaciers near at hand now appeared to be only a small fragment of the whole glacier system bounding the entire horizon. To the west 14* 3i6 LIFE IX THE FATHERLAND and south-west were the ranges we had been wandering over fur mure than a week, while to the north lay others that we hoped tu climb in the weeks to come. Eighteen hundred peaks stood out in marble-like relief before us. It certainly gave us a very small idea of the work we had accomplished, or hoped to accomplish, to see the scene of several weeks' labor brought, to all appearance, almost within gunshot of where we were standing. This could be accounted for in a measure by the rarity of the atmos- phere ; but this was not the first time that, after perform- ing a task, however difficult it may have seemed at the time, it appeared very small on looking down upon it long afterward from a higher point than where the brain or hands had wrought. The great white Ortler peak rose directly opposite where we were standing. It is nearly ten thousand feet above the sea, and nine hundred feet above the line of perpetual snow. It stands as a patriarch in the midst of a large dependent group, all the intervening gaps bearing their burden of glaciers, whose depth and story no man can tell. Until lately the Ortler was regarded as the highest mountain oi the Tyrol; but the recent measurements of the Swiss engineer, Dcn/lcr, have proved that there are several others between tour and five hundred feet higher. Its peculiar conformation makes its ascent very difficult and dangerous. Until [804 it was thought inaccessible, when, owing to the large reward offered by Archduke John, m| Austria, to the first man who would scale it, Joseph Pichler, a bold Alpine hunter, gained the Coveted prize. Since then it has been ascended a number of THE TYROLESE. 317 times, and careful surveys have been made of the Ortler and its snow-clad family. The winding road by which we had ascended on the Italian side could be seen here and there like an unwound gray thread in the deep distance. Just around a rocky angle was the long, low custom-house, connected with which was the inn of Santa Maria, where we had been treated to an unsavory dinner a couple of hours before, and where the Austrian publicans muttered gruffly through their great beards the first tidings we had of the death of Maxi- milian in Mexico. Beginning the descent where an obelisk marks the frontier line between Italy and Austria, the steep road, numbering fifty zig-zags, came into full view. New and different scenes were presented every few min- utes ; in fact, the succession of them was so rapid that our whole walk from the top of the Bormio Pass to the little inn where we rested at night seemed more like a dream, or some description that I had read, than a living experience. We spent the night in the little village of Trafui, a cor- ruption of Tres Fontes, which takes its name from the three icy streams that flow out of the precipitous side of a huge rock further up the valley. The forests, which extend as high up toward the Pass as vegetation can exist, abound in wild deer, while there is a certain plateau near by that goes by the name of the " Bears' Play- ground." The mountain shepherds have had many unpleasant experiences with the bears, which come down on their favorite " play-ground," and make sad havoc of the flocks that dare to intrude upon it. An hour's 3 1 8 LIFE IN THE FA THERLAND. walk from Trafui brought us to a humble shed cover- in- statues of the Saviour, the Virgin Mary, and Saint John ; from the breast of each a stream of clear, fresh, "holy water" is made to flow. Close at hand is the little chapel containing a picture of the Madonna. This is supposed to possess miraculous powers. It is visited yearly by multitudes of Tyrolese pilgrims, and, for all the confidence they would place in your words, you might as well tell them that they are citizens of Pat- agonia as that that execrable daub can never cure their diseases. We started about five o'clock the following morning to complete the journey down the valley, and then to take the highway through the Vintschgau to Meran. The air was very refreshing, but it would be hours before the sun could penetrate the valley. The shepherds were leading their herds out to pasture. The milk-women were return- ing to their huts with their well-laden pails, and now and then a frightened bird would start up before us, and dart off to its home in the fir-forest. The road very frequently crossed the now wide and constantly enlarging stream ; so on every bridge we dropped our knapsacks and alpenstocks for a leisurely gaze into the mad torrent below, and then far up and down the valley sides, where quiet cottages nestled, like little cages, under some kindly rocky shell'. Villages multiplied as the valley grew broader; but the}- were so filthy and unromantic when we reached them that we tripped through them as rapidly as possible, preferring to rest by the roadside, where the unartistic peasantry had riol yet disturbed the THE TYROL ESE. 319 lovely work of nature. In clue time the road suddenly emerged into the broad historical Vintschgau ; castles of rare beauty crowned every rocky height within view ; the bells from the chapels of the thickly scattered villages held high carnival as the clock had just struck ten ; the hay-fields near and far were alive with groups of gayly- dressed men and women, who were gathering their har- vest by the aid of primitive little sickles ; and the deep- green carpet of numberless vineyards lay unrolled all along the hill-sides, and bounded the horizon at each end of the enchanted valley. The Vintschgau, so called from its ancient inhabitants, the Vennotes, is the broad valley watered by the Adige. The stage-coach traverses its entire length, an arrange- ment which proved very convenient to us about the middle of the afternoon. Picturesque castles increased on either side, some of them being no longer tenable because of their ruined state, while others are occupied a part of the year by their titled owners. Almost every village has its reigning saint, and chapels line the way-side throughout the valley. In some instances we observed tufts of barley and Indian corn hanging over the crucifix, half-hiding the crown of thorns. On asking a peasant what it meant, he said, as nearly as I can now recall, " That means that we owe all our blessings to Him who died for us." A beautiful reply, and worthy of a less sensuous system of worship than that of the peasant and his countrymen. Of the castles on the way, Juval is one of the most extensive and picturesque. Before the invention of gun- 320 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. powder it was considered impregnable. In the year 1546 its owner, Linkmoser, surrounded it with a large outer building, a fact commemorated by a tablet over the gate- way. Its halls are ornamented with frescoes of biblical scenes — all made in the sixteenth century — and its door- posts are of the finest marble. From its windows, through which many generations have looked out upon the beau- tiful valley, there is a very fine distant view of the mount- ain range bounded oa the west by the Ortler. The Castelbello is another very large ruin. It was occupied until 1842, when its wooden work was destroyed by fire. It stands upon one solid rock, and is again surrounded by a dense growth of ivy. MERAN AND THE TYROL CASTLE. 321 CHAPTER III. MERAN AND THE TYROL CASTLE. A LL the different attractions of the Aclige Valley ■*■ *- combine as you draw near to Meran. The castles increase in number ; the vineyards assume even a tropical luxuriance ; the chapels multiply ; and waterfalls come in to help the splendor of the scene. Meran is not the en- throned queen of all, but lies low in the valley, as a rustic divinity asleep amid her favorite groves and fountains. A sudden halt before the broad doorway of an hotel was our signal for rest, and we were once more back again to real life. A huge crucifix stood at the end of the hall where we were assigned rooms ; but I fear the symbol had but little influence over the management of the hotel. The proprietor's boast was, that kings and princes had been his guests ; but of all the hotels where we stopped in the Tyrol, this was the only one where the waiters were impudent ; where, so far as I know, a direct and systematic attempt was made to cheat ; where we were compelled to sit at the table next to a man who seemed to be' an angry cross between intoxication and insanity ; and where we were treated at breakfast to loaves of bread which had lost their crust, and suffered huge excavations by hungry mice on their nocturnal peregrinations. We would not eat the bread, but had to make out a long and crooked case before getting better. 322 LIFE IX THE FATHERLAND. Meran, a town of about three thousand inhabitants, first appears in history A.D. 857, and owes its origin to the destruction of the neighboring Roman town of Maja, in 800, by the fall of a mountain. Fragments of buried houses, Roman coins from Drusus to Justinian, and human bones, are still turned up in the fields and vineyards. Meran lies just at the junction of three valleys; it was the ancient capital of the country, and its castle of Tyrol was the residence of the rulers. In the Middle Ages it enjoyed great prosperity and power as a commercial center, but numerous wars and the conflicts between the princes and their vassals prostrated it, and it now owes nearly all its thrift to health-seekers, who visit it in large numbers every summer and autumn. It abounds in boarding-houses and fine promenades for their accommo- dation. The stores are mostly under low, gloom}' arcades, which are almost blocked up much of the time by loung- ing peasantry. The castle of Tyrol, about an hour's ascending walk from the town, has given its name to the country. It is, in part, a ruin, the massive watch-tower being the principal portion now remaining perfect. The doorway of the little chapel is interesting, because of its very old symbolic sculptures. The)' evidently date from the early art-period of the Christian era, probably not a whit later than the eleventh century. The authorities have created a little literature of disputation concerning their origin, and to this day there is no certainty arrived at. chic authority states that tlicv arc taken from the "Heroes' Book" oi the exploits of Emperor Ornit ami Wolfdietrich, in slaying MERAN AND THE TYROL CASTLE. 323 the dragon's brood on the mountains of Trent, a fable emblematic of the victory of Christianity over paganism. Baron von Hammer has explained them to be Gnostic symbols ; this is probably the nearest approach to the truth yet reached. The castle of Tyrol contains an interesting collection of parchment manuscripts, and some vases and armor from the Middle Ages. It would be easy enough to get lost amid its winding halls, dark stairways, and subter- ranean passages. Its largest room is ornamented with portraits of the later members of the Hapsburg dynasty, all being distinguished by the unusually heavy under-lip characteristic of the family. From the windows of this room you enjoy the richest luxury which the great old castle, with all its history of cruel power and thrilling romance, can give, — a view of brother-castles that may be counted by the dozen ; of villages so close together as almost to form a continuous city ; of streams running in all directions, as if engaged in some musical, hide-and- go-seek game of their own ; of vineyards whose divisions and ownership seem obliterated by their luxuriant over- growth ; of avenues of chestnut, mulberry, and plum-trees winding with the roads ; of glaciers that lie high up on the bleak hills, and look down with the same cold eye as in the long-gone centuries ; and of the bold mountains of porphyry and dolomite that bound the eastward view toward Botzen, and tell of the Brenner Pass, over which the Roman legions often went to make conquests in the barbarian north, and of the disturbance of whose hardy people by the victorious Drusus, Horace thus sung : — 324 LIFE IN THE FA THERLAND. " Videre Rhaeti bella sub Alpibus Drusum gerentem. Drusus, Cermanos implacidum genus Brennosque veloces, et arccs Alpibus im posit as tremendis Dejecit acer plus vice simplici." Plucking a few ivy-leaves that hung in wasteful plenty over the outer wall of the castle, and emerging through the gateway where the portcullis used to hang, we reached the main road leading" through villages and vineyards back to Meran. The street corners were occupied by smoking, lounging peasants, who, in accordance with their social custom on seeing strangers, whom the} - regard no nearer nobility than themselves, gave a homely but hearty greeting as we passed. The shop-keepers were half asleep at their stalls under the arcades, and the prom- enades were alive with slowly-sauntering invalids from Northern Europe. The setting sun cast long shadows across the market-place in front of the Archduke John Hotel, where we lodged — there, now, I have divulged its aristocratic name in spite of a benevolent design to the contrary — and thus closed another of Meran's loveliest days. Early the next morning we started on our six hours' walk for Botzen. The road was attractive beyond all the descriptions of the guide-books, and I bad no regrets at seeing the stage pass by and leave us to enjoy the scenery at our leisure. This section was a favorite home of the southern nobility in the Middle Ages, who displayed great taste iii the selection of sites for residence, for their castles occupy all the points where good prospects are MERAN AND THE TYROL CASTLE. 325 presented. There is one bridge on which we stood and counted twenty castles within clear view. The Lowen- burg contains sixty chambers, and is surrounded by ter- races and sloping vineyards. The Schonna has more the appearance of a fortress, and the guide can still show its gates, armory, drawbridge, and dungeons. The Frags- burg — the Roman Trifagium — stands on a high cliff and looks down on the Katzenstein and Neuberg at its feet. It is occupied, and still retains its grim mediaeval glory and solidity. On the almost perpendicular cliff rising at the left of the roadside there stands one of the most interesting ruins in the Tyrol. It is the Maultasch Cas- tle, so called because it was a favorite home of the last Tyrolese ruler, Margaret Maultasch, or " Pouting Meg." There are many strange stories connected with its his- tory, and in many of the legends of the Tyrol the Maul- tasch plays a very romantic part. My companion having taken advantage of a rickety old chaise that was bound for Botzen, I was left alone for a while. So I clambered up the hill to see the Maultasch ruin more closely, and enjoy the fine prospect from its crumbling walls. The desolation was complete. Some of the heavy arches had lost their keystones ; others had entirely fallen ; while still others were so threateningly awry that I hastened from beneath them. Lazy lizards lay sleeping on the shapeless stone fragments, whose almost effaced images had occupied years of artistic labor far back in some unknown mediaeval century. The ivy- vines had aided the work of decay by softly penetrating every crevice, and thus gently uplifting and overturning 326 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. the huge stones that war and time had mercifully spared. Fig-trees grew wild in the courts where once the prince- ly halls had stood. But from those old windows, which are now only misshapen rents, you enjoy a scene of nature which never grows old. It was as beautiful when I saw it as when Pouting Meg looked upon it. I then found what I had not perceived before, that the Mault- asch stands just on the rocky angle commanding a view of two immense valleys. But the ruin was lonely be- yond description, and I was glad enough when I could feel satisfied with the enjoyment of the prospect suffi- ciently to leave it, and all its stories, to themselves. In order to save time I took a nearer way down ; but it was a sore experience, for I lost my way. Half-running and half-falling, meanwhile waking up innumerable lizards that lay as dead on the mossy rocks, I finally reached the hill- side of a vineyard. The heat was intense, and it was nearly an hour before I was fit to leave the shade of a convenient chestnut-tree for the last part of the tramp to Meran. The Sigmundskrone is the most extensive ruin for many miles around. It rests on the rocky base where the Ro- man castle of Formicaria had stood, and may be seen in all directions. The view from it must be very fine, but my Maultasch experience took away all the spare time for that purpose. In 1475 the Sigmundskrone became the prop- ert) of Archduke Sigismund, who had it restored to a condition of great beauty. At present it is the property of Count Sarntheim, and its vaults are used as a powder magazine for the local troops. MERAN AND THE TYROL CASTLE. 327 Botzen is the great commercial center of the Tyrol. Its population numbers ten thousand, who, in physique, lan- guage, and customs, bear a strong resemblance to their Italian neighbors. It lies in the center of a magnificent amphitheater formed by the dolomite and porphyry mount- ains east and north, and by the castellated hills south and west. It was settled originally by the East Goths. The houses have a decidedly Italian appearance, and the prin- cipal business is conducted , under dingy arcades, as in Padua. From the early period of the history of Botzen the arcade on one side of the market-place has gone by the name of the Italian, while the opposite one has been called the German, because of the respective nationality of the venders. The parish church was finished in the year 1400, and has lately undergone extensive restorations and improvements. The gardens abound in many rare floral varieties, and are justly regarded as one of the prin- cipal attractions of the town. As this was the market- day, I had a good opportunity of seeing the costumes of the peasantry, and the various productions of the country. Oranges, lemons, figs, apricots, and mammoth plums were offered in large masses by as unkempt a set of fruit dames as I have ever seen handle dirty coppers and stained pint- measures. As a pleasant offset to their appearance, all the streets were musical with the refreshing mountain streams that are made to flow through them, and the market-places and street corners are ornamented with ever-flowing grotesque fountains. 328 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. CHAPTER IV. OVER A BACKBONE. — CROSSING A GLACIER. TV /T Y companion preferred to take the stage line of the * * -*- Brenner Pass, while I struck to the left, to cross one of the -Teat Tyrolese backbones. We were to meet in five days, and resume our journey. The proper point for crossing the range of mountains separating the Vintsch- gau Valley on the south from that of the Inn on the north, is the filthy little village of Staben. You can lake the stage, and in two and a half full days get around into the Inn Valley at a point opposite Staben ; but if you wish a five days' walk over one of the wildest parts of the Alps, and then descend into the charming valley of the Oetzt, so as to traverse every mile of its course, let the stage attend to its own legitimate business. You have a richer feast be- fore you than that enjoyed by its sleep)', dusty occupanl It will take you more time than the}- will need, but you will gain many advantages for which they dare not hope. I he road from Staben leads precipitously through vine- yards, and in iluc time the narrow valley of the Schnals is entered. I had hardly lost sight of Staben before I was overtaken by a Tyrolese pedestrian, who had a friendly, open countenance, and told me that he was going to Unser Frau — Our Lady — the ver) cluster of houses upon the Pass where I hoped to spend the night. The path w.is not very easj to discover at some places, and Christian — OVER A BACKBONE.— CROSSING A GLACIER. 329 for that was his name — served the purpose of a trusty guide. The valley became narrow and very deep, and the foot-path wound along the left side. Every step had to be taken with care, but there was no danger to any one who is not subject to giddiness. Hour after hour passed by, and still the valley did not terminate. There were lit- tle patches of stunted hay below us ; and streams of clear water ran down the sides of the mountain, and were care- fully directed into courses most advantageous for irrigating the land. No cart or vehicle of any kind can traverse the Schnals Valley ; all the burdens must be carried on the backs of the peasantry or the donkeys. The post-boy ascends it only once a week, but he might almost as well abandon his craft, for his work is commensurate with the profound ignorance and superstition of the peasantry. We soon came to a point, whence, far below, we saw a small cluster of houses, the parish chapel standing on a mount- ain above them: On asking Christian if the people of the village worshiped in that chapel, which could only be reached by a difficult ascent, he replied, " O yes ; they all go to Church at the appointed times. They don't mind climbing a mountain." I immediately thought of the many pretexts I had heard in the United States in justi- fication of absence from the house of worship, by people who save all their diseases of the week until Sabbath morning, and whom a little shower, or snow-squall, or a walk of a good healthy distance, never keeps from the place of business from Monday until Sunday. It is diffi- cult to tell what sort of an exclamation such folks would make if they were to see the little chapel of St. Catharine, 330 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. which has stood ever since the year of grace 1502, high above the dwellings of its prompt congregation. But per- haps if they had to undergo the same difficult ascent for a time, they would manufacture a convenient windlass or a comfortable elevator to hoist them up to their devotions. About the middle of the afternoon we reached the buildings of the old Carthusian Monastery, which bears the imposing name of " Mountain of all the Angels." The monastery was founded A. D. 1326 by King Henry, who was at the time only Prince of Tyrol, but bore the royal title as Pretender to the Bohemian crown. The institution was abolished in 1782, and the cells are occu- pied by a squalid population of poor and ignorant persons. There are some old paintings in the St. Anna Church by an unknown hand. Knitting stockings and raising cattle are the principal occupation of the people now occupying the monastery and the lowly huts grouped around it. This is a convenient center for many interesting excursions. It was near sunset when we arrived at " Unser I-'rau," the last village of the valley of the Schnals, which is lure over five thousand feet above the level of the sea. Christian lay clown to sleep on the velvety grass beside the door of the inn, and the homely hostess made liberal promises of a good dinner. Meantime I engaged a -aide for the following day's journey over the Pass, and had a pleasant chat with the young priest, who was the junior curate of the village Church, lie spoke oi an intimate priestly friend of his in Cincinnati, hut he no sooner Learned that I was an American than a very significant expression clouded his hue, as much as to say, "Ah, well; OVER A BACKBONE.— CROSSING A GLACIER. 33 1 poor land, your people are only Protestants, and they don't know any better." He told the history of his little chapel, and offered snuff, as if to draw me into sympathy with his story. The original chapel was built in the year 1303, but it went into decay afterward, and was restored to its present state in 1746. In the chapel there is a "Mercy Picture," which is highly revered through a large extent of country, and is the object of many pilgrimages. There is also a beautiful picture representing St. Bruno. It is supposed to be by Helfenrieder. There is an exquisite wooden crucifix in the sacristy. The dinner was not equal to that of an American hotel, but hunger sweetens the poorest fare. Each room was presided over by one or more pendent crucifixes, some of which reached almost from the ceiling to the floor. Ar- rangements had to be made for food next day, as I was to eat high up on the Pass, far from any inn whatever. The hostess showed me a long chest, which was partitioned off, and contained sundry uninviting bits of dried fat pork, mutton, and beef. They were savory with garlic, and finely coated with cobwebs. I declined all her propositions for dried meat, and finally determined on hard-boiled eggs. The upper hall, on which my bedroom was situated, was first covered by accumulated dirt, and afterward by many loaves of bread, which seemed to be spread there in order to undergo some further hardening process. How many I trod on while passing up and down stairs I will not en- gage to say ; but it is just as likely that previous guests had trampled well over the hard, thin, blackbread loaves that helped to satisfy my hunger. The bedroom was 15 332 LIFE IX THE FATHERLAND. the best iii the house. I had ample accommodations for Catholic worship, even it I had been thus occupied all night. There were several chief crucifixes looking down upon me from the corners of the room, to say nothing of the ornaments wrought into miniature crucifixes. On searching for matches I found a little object, which was surmounted by a crucifix, hanging high at the door. This appeared more like a match-safe than any thing else, but on feeling for matches there was only ice-cold water. Thus I had the benefit of "holy water" to give such pleasant dreams as may be expected of an American when he sleeps on a worn-out and hill)- straw mattress, in keeping with the rocky country around him. Just at half-past four o'clock the next morning I had the satisfaction of seeing my guide, Joseph Rafeiner, trip off with my knapsack on his back. This was to be the most adventurous da)' of my Tyrolese journey, and Joseph said that the peaks were in clearer view than usual. In about three hours we took a lunch, before crossing the mountain, in the last human habitation — the only ^\w I was to see before evening. Though I had been gradually ascending- all the day before, and also ever since Joseph and I had started that morning, it was only now that we came to the direct and precipitous ascent of the Hoch Joch Ferner. Friendly sheep followed cl se behind us, and a drove ^i horses seemed to enjoy our companionship. The air was very cold, and ever) time I stopped there was immediate need oi m\ heavy shawl. About noon we reached the neighborhood oi the Hoch Joch Ferner, when we nestled I'losel) Lindei a rock to spend a hall hour over our hard OVER A BACKBONE,— CROSSING A GLACIER, m eggs and harder bread. Cold chills ran through me all the time, and I was glad enough to be in motion again. It had snowed a good deal the day before — which was the 8th of July — and there was no path to be seen over either the great patches of snow that stretched down on the sides of the mountain or over the glacier itself. Jo- seph went ahead, and made tracks for me as well as he could ; but he needed a hatchet, which he had neglected to bring along. The snow had here frozen to ice dur- ing the night, and it was almost impossible to gain footholds. With the exception of a slight fall, that did no further harm than a half hour's excited nerves and a soon-forgotten bruise, no accident occurred. But Joseph afterward took me by the hand, and held me with the iron grasp of an Alpine athlete. Having reached the glacier proper, we gradually ascended it untill we stood upon its highest point, which is indicated by a rough wooden cross. The view was not as distant as I had anticipated ; I could see almost nothing but snow-clad mountains on all sides. It ap- peared as if that was all there was of the earth. Between the mountains, glaciers many miles in length trailed down like white serpents, and converged into one, the Hoch Joch, on which we were shivering in the cold. The scene reminded me of a colossal, uplifted human hand, the outstretched fingers representing the separate gla- ciers, and the wrist the magnificent central one formed by their convergence. The air was as clear as ether itself ; the Similan, though twenty miles off, seemed within an hour's walk. The horizon was of a pale green, but the 334 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. higher we looked toward the zenith the bluer the sky grew, until] it became intensely blue just above us. We had to protect our faces from the powerful reflection from the ice by means of goggles and green vails ; but I relieved myself of mine whenever it became necessary to take advantage of a new view. We passed occasionally a rough wooden cross, which did not mark out the path, but only indicated the spot where some ill-fated hunter or traveler had suffered the penalty of his rashness. Having begun the descent of the glacier, the valley of the Oetzt broke upon us in all its wild grandeur. We found some chasms that the July sun had already begun to make and widen, and when our feet once mure struck the solid ground, or rather rock, a feeling of indescribable relief came over me. Joseph and 1 took our last lunch together just after finishing our five miles' walk over the glacier. Then we parted, he back to his humble home at " Unser Frau," and I for a fortnight of calmer and less adventurous travel far down below the glaciers and their chill air. The path was now plain enough for the most of the way, but there were some fearful gorges which it threaded high above the stream, and more than once I wished for Joseph's strong hand again. In a few hours i reached stunted vegetation Once more, and herds of sheep, w: shepherds were nowhere to be seen, came up like old acquaintances and rubbed their n< ainst my I tered hands, as if to kiss me welcome after the completion "i tin- hardest day's work of m\ life. FATE OF A TYROLF.SE GUIDE. 335 CHAPTER V. FATE OF A TYROLESE GUIDE. ^HAT night I found good lodgings in the village of ■*- Fend, with the parish priest, Father Franz Senn, for mine host. Fend lies six thousand feet above the sea, and the air is no doubt chilly throughout the summer. I called it " cold " that night, but the priest said, with a smile, as he walked the plateau in front of his house and read his breviary, " O no, it is only fresh." If any member of Father Senn's profession surpasses him in the frigidity of his parish, he is certainly deserving of hearty commis- eration, for a good part of it consists of such dangerous glaciers as have defied all efforts to scale and cross them, or have ingulfed, in their unknown depths, many rash intruders upon their slippery and deceptive surface. Many travelers, coming in from all quarters, stop and spend the night with Father Senn. This proprietor has collected a valuable little library relating to the Tyrolese Mountains, and has been one of the best explorers, and even cartographers, of that intensely interesting section. He has spent his spare days and weeks in scaling hitherto untrodden peaks, making observations, and discovering new paths through the valleys ; and his services in Alpine surveys have been duly recognized by many of the writers in this department. All travelers who have been enter- tained under his roof will remember with pleasure his 33 5 LIFE IX THE FATHERLAND. pleasant manners, highly intelligent face, and more than ordinary acquirements. What Mr. Serin has been in a friendly and scientific way to travelers in the Tyrol, Cyprian Graubichler was in a practical way, as a bold and adventurous guide. He was living when I was in the Tyrol and slept at Fend, but since then he has fallen a victim to his dangerous calling. I cannot refrain from giving an account of his last adven- ture, which closed with his life. His fate will illustrate that of many a Tyrolese climber. He was endowed by nature with an ardent love of his native mountains, and soon rose head and shoulders above the craft of guides, by the daring character of his undertakings. No boy born on the sea-shore was ever more fearless on the waves con- stantly within his hearing, or more ardently longed for the opportunity of sailing over all seas and of enjoy- ing all their wild humors, than did this plain Tyrolese peasant hope to traverse untrodden glaciers, look down from giddy precipices, chop out stairways in the unraelting ice to fearful acclivities, and to be the first to plant the crucifix on many of those snow-clad peaks. Mr. Senn, the Catholic priest, and Cyprian Graubichler, usually called " Cyper," the peasant guide, were fit companions for hazardous enterprise, and no wonder that, drawn together by a peculiar sympathy, their name-; will be forever as ciated in the story of Tyrolese adventure, aye, and of tragedy too. But they have made their last wearisome tramp together. The priest still reals his breviary counts his beads as he walks up an 1 ! iwn the greensward before his quiet inn al Fend, while poor Cyper, who. FATE OF A TYROLESE GUIDE. 337 though young in years, had achieved the reputation of being one of the most successful of all the guides in the Tyrolese Alps, sleeps amid the towering glaciers that he traversed with staff, and pick, and rope. Cyper was born at Solden, in the valley of the Oetzt, in March, 1835. When twenty years of age he was required to present himself for military service in the Austrian army, but was declared by the surgeons unfit for duty be- cause of flat feet. He was very glad to be released, of course, and thereupon learned the carpenter's trade, a work in which he ever afterward engaged when not em- ployed in traversing the mountains. He commenced guiding travelers over the Tyrolese Alps in the year 1861, and, after four years of minor undertakings, began to scale hitherto unascended peaks, and to attract attention by the daring character of his journeys. Mr. Senn, the Catholic priest, found in him a congenial spirit, and chose him for his companion on his most hazardous undertak- ings. The last dangerous tour which Cyper made before the fatal one to be recounted presently, was with the Grand Duke Ferdinand Rainer, of Austria, over the Kreutz Joch and Wildspitze and many intervening glaciers. The travelers' registers found in the inns throughout the Tyrol abound in praises of Cyper ; and the celebrated mountain- climber, Johann Stuedl, of Prague, says of him, in a late volume of the Annals of the Austrian Alpine Union, the following : " In all his excursions, particularly the dan- gerous ones, he preserved the greatest composure and foresight, and revealed a remarkable endurance, knowledge, and acuteness of vision." 338 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. The account of the final adventure of Mr. Senn and Cy- per together, which led to the death of the latter, must be given, to do justice to the truth, substantially as found in " Aus clem Leben Eines Gletcherfuhrers," (Munich, 1869,) in the language of the former : — " I was in Meran with Cyper from the 26th of October, 1 868, to the 5th of November, my object being to restore my broken health, and the aim of us both to recuper- ate from the extraordinary labors which we had passed through during the summer. We had a most delightful time during our stay in Meran. On Friday, the 6th of November, it was high time for us to leave Meran, in order to reach Unser Frau, in the valley of the Schnals, on the same day. On Sunday I had official duties at home, and, the 7th of November being Saturday, there was "only one day left to cross the Hoch Joch. The previous beautiful weather gave us no ground for appre- hension of danger ; besides, a man who had just come from Fend, Gregory Klotz, assured us that the glaeier was quite free from new snow. We were, therefore, very hopeful when, on Saturday morning, after a walk of two hours, we had reached Kurzras, the last stopping-place in the valley of the Schnals, and had found fresh snow only two indies deep. We thought that this snow, as ex- perience often teaches, did not reach as tar up as the glaeier. Leaving Kurzras at about half-past eleven, we proceeded confidently on our way to the Hoch Joch. About half-past one o'clock, in the afternoon, we reached the south-west end of the Hoch Joch glacier, without having mel with an) special difficulties ; we observed. FATE OF A TYROLESE GUIDE. 339 however, that, as we ascended, the snow gradually became deeper, and we at last found it about half a foot deep. Still, this fact, together with the additional one that it still continued snowing, and that the whole atmosphere was filled with very fine snow-flakes, gave us no real ground for alarm ; we comforted ourselves, on the other hand, with the thought that we would make good way over the glacier, and then proceed comfortably on our journey to Fend. We were both thoroughly acquainted with the way, and, if it had been summer, we could have gone the whole distance blindfold. But, unfortunately, we were soon to experience a bitter disappointment. "After tarrying a quarter of an hour at the so-called Boedele, the usual stopping-place of tourists, we both par- took of our fat pork, beef, bread, and wine, and about a quarter before two o'clock stepped on the glacier, whose length we hoped to traverse in the course of two hours. Just as soon as our feet touched the glacier, we sank up to our knees in freshly fallen snow. Still, we did not despair, but hoped it would be better. We went on in this way about an hour and a half, sinking all the time in deep snow, and had not reached the so-called Latsch- buechel ; therefore had not passed a third of the glacier. Cyper then said to me, ' I think we should return ! ' I answered him, ' It is Saturday, and consequently my duty to be in Fend ; and since the west wind is blowing, every trace of our way back to Kurzras has probably disappeared ; besides, we have passed over one-half of our way from Unser Frau, and will soon find less snow.' Cyper, with- out making any reply, immediately went on, merely 15* 340 LIFE IN THE FA THERLAND. complaining occasionally that he found his light summer clothing altogether too cold for him. As I remarked that ' I wished we had taken a man with us from the valley of the Schnals,' he replied, ' Nobody would have gone with ns.' We did not reach the Latschbuechel until twilight, both of us being quite tired, the high wind increasing in violence, and the snow growing deeper all the time. ' O, I wish we had returned,' said I, ' but it is too late — there- fore, ever onward ! ' Yes, ' Onward ' was easy enough to say, but very hard to carry out. The wind grew to a per- fect hurricane, and the snow came down in heavy masses, and soon the dark night was upon us. I said, ' O, I do wish we were on the other side of the glacier!' But this was not to take place very soon. Sinking at every step to our thighs in the snow, the darkness of the night over- took us but a short distance beyond the Latschbuechel, therefore about in the middle of the glacier ; and as we wished to take the direction of the path used by travelers in the summer, we wished to go to the right. Scarcely had ten minutes passed by before I said, ' Cyper, it seems to me that we are on the way back to the valley of the Schnals, for the wind is now dead ahead of us ! ' He also was convinced that this was the case, and advised our turning round. We now resolved to bear constantly to the left, to the so-called Hoherberg, and by this means to reach the Steinerne Treppe. This way, it is true, is somewhat further, but it is the one usually traveled, and, by taking it, we were sure of guarding against the dan- ger of getting very far out of the way, for we had the glacier at our right and the Hoherberg at our left. We FATE OF A TY ROLES E GUIDE. 341 plodded constantly forward, no change taking place in the weather or in the depth of the snow, and finally reached the Steinerne Treppe about ten o'clock at night. " We had long been anticipating the joy of reaching this point, hoping there to find pleasanter weather and less snow. But what a delusion ! Instead of finding the west wind there which had previously prevailed, we were confronted by a violent hurricane from the north, and the great snow-flakes shut out the little light which we should otherwise have had, and made every step oiieof the great- est danger. It was almost impossible for us to cross the glacier diagonally to the Kreuzberg and the Neuweg, be- cause of the total darkness and the chasms in the glacier. We had no rope to tie around us, and were therefore compelled to make the dangerous and difficult passage downward to the Erzboedele. We now had to clamber with hands and feet — for neither of us had any longer a stick with us — an effort which first wheeled us to the right and then to the left, so that I now wonder how, under such circumstances, we could ever have reached the neighborhood of the Erzboedele. Scarcely had we gotten a good footing, and gained a few steps, before we were overtaken by a new, and almost greater, difficulty. Cyper regarded it impossible to find either the Hintereis or the Rofenberg shepherd's cottage, and I doubted whether it would be possible to reach the left side of the Hintereis glacier, and, by going along the Rofenberg, and then oVer the Vernagt glacier, to reach the Neuweg. We therefore resolved to go straight across into the Rofenthal, know- ing that there are no chasms in the glacier there, and 342 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. that the Neuweg was just on the other side of the Kreuzberg. " We found that the steep smooth ice was covered deep with fresh snow, and it was therefore impossible to obtain a good footing. As we, however, found the Kreuzberg near before us, we did not observe, until too late, an almost perpendicular wall of ice to our right, which was almost perfectly free from snow. Cyper stepped upon it, glided down, and in a moment was lost from my sight. 'How are you?' I exclaimed. 'Too good,' was his response from below. 'Are you injured?' 'No.' 'Then can I slide down to where you are ? ' ' For God's sake no ; for there is an awful mountain chasm, and I have been thrown across it ! Go higher up ! ' So I did as he said, sounding the snow at every step I took. Sometimes I crept along on my knees and hands, and, finally, after con- siderable circuitous creeping, came down to where Cyper was. My first exclamation was, ' God be praised, now that we have the glacier behind us !' Away down in the depth where we were there was no wind, and I could thcref light a match. I did so, and found it was half-past twelve o'clock at night. "The glacier was now behind us. and it had taken us eleven hours to cross it, though in summer it is a work easily accomplished in only two. We hail lone aeo given up almost all hope of reaching the end of it alive, I therefore said, as we had thus far been successful, ' Now we will come out all right.' • ( >. my God!' was Cyper's response, in a tremblin ; v lice. ■ [s any thing the mat; with you ?' '1 have been too much frightened by my fall,' FATE OF A TYROLESE GUIDE. 343 said he. I then noticed, as I came close up to him, that his whole body was in a fearful tremor — and this never left him afterward. Even a few swallows of wine, which he here took, did not help him in the least. I had already repeatedly told him to take a swallow of wine occasionally, but he would not do it. He always said, ' The wine is too cold for me.' We rested here only a few moments, saying, ' We dare not stand here ; we must keep in mo- tion.' For we well knew that, after we had rested awhile, if we should fall asleep, we should never wake up. " The howling of the night wind was awful, and immense masses of snow kept falling all the time. Still, we kept moving forward, sometimes turning to the right, and sometimes to the left. We now found out that we were too high upon the mountain side, and must, therefore, find some way lower down. Now there seemed to be no ground of hope, and our endeavors to progress through the deep snow were utterly fruitless. Still, we often said, ' We must do our best to save our life — therefore, let us go slowly and keep in motion.' Our last drop of wine was exhausted between three and four o'clock in the morn- ing, and we were too weak to chew the bread and frozen fat meat which we had in our pockets. We were expect- ing death at any moment, and, as soon as the day began to dawn, we found that we were still too high, and that it was almost an indescribably dangerous task to get lower down. Still, our courage was somewhat increased by the daylight, and I said, ' Now come on, we can easily go to Fend.' It was about six o'clock in the morning, and, therefore, 344 LIFE IN THE FA THERLAND. only a distance, in summer weather, of half an hour's walk to Rofenberg. ' About ten o'clock,' I said, ' we can be in Fend.' What a mistake ! Scarcely had we gone a few steps before we were overwhelmed by an avalanche of freshly fallen snow. I was behind Cyper, and suddenly drawing back, was hid from him by the avalanche. He had prostrated himself in a moment, and, after the ava- lanche had passed over us, rose uninjured. Immediately there came other avalanches, without any interruption. Five different ones swept over us, though without carrying us away with them, for we cast ourselves in the freshly fallen snow, and fixed our hands and feet as deeply in it as we could, to prevent being hurled by them far down into the abyss to the left. Not a single instant were we safe from avalanches, and we had to be continually look- ing to the side of the mountain to watch their approach. "About nine we reached the small, old shepherd's cot- tage, and, as our strength was now almost totally exhausted, we entered it to rest for a while, in order to gain strength for the remainder of our journey. We there found some wood, with which we made a fire. This hovel was more m fit for beasts than for men, and we found that it" we would reach home we must hurry up as rapidly as possible. Cyper did not become warm by the fire, but trembled the whole time we were by it. At last he said, 'It is more prudent to go. It will help us nothing to stay here. Hut.' he added, ' I shall never get to Fend.' About two o'clock in the afternoon, when we were not far from Rofenberg, Cyper stood still, and, supporting himself by the snow, said, ' I can go no further.' It was only about a hundred FATE OF A TYROLESE GUIDE. 345 and fifty steps to the so-called Rothbach, after crossing which I had good ground for hoping the way would be better. I went on ahead of Cyper now, and tried every way to get him to follow me. He did the best he could, but could not go further. 'Arouse!' I exclaimed. 'Help me, O my God, and give me strength to save his life ! ' " He could not move a foot, and I determined to £-0 on to Rofen as soon as possible, hoping, should I find any body there, to send him after Cyper. It was almost impossible for me to advance a single step in the snow. With my feet, hands, knees, and arms thoroughly buried in the snow, I had to roll and twist myself in order to make any sort of a track by which to get my body along. After I had gone a little way Cyper called after me, ' Must I die here alone ? ' I answered, ' I will go quickly to Rofen, and send people to your help.' I now believed that we should be saved. " Things now turned out more prosperously. With the exception of a space of about five steps, I could go on my way without hinderance. In the middle of a forest through which I passed, I noticed a man near a bridge. I cried to him with all my might. But he did not see or hear me, and therefore I had to go nearer to him and repeat my cry. He now heard me, and I found that it was that good man Ferdinand Klotz, who was astonished beyond measure to see me under such circumstances. I said to him, ' Cyper is within the Rothbach, and can come no further ! Go quickly for him, help him, and let him have no rest, or else he will fall asleep. I will go to Rofen and call more help.' Thus we separated, and Cyper was therefore not more than half an hour's distance from me. 3-yi LIFE IX THE FATHERLAND. " I cannot tell how happy I now was. I said to myself, ' I shall now get to Rofen easily, and Cyper, too, will be saved.' When I reached Rofen I found it was impossible to go further. It was three o'clock in the afternoon. The only man to be found was Xicodemus Klotz, whom I im- mediately sent to Cyper. After I had taken some warm milk, and given full directions for the treatment of Cyp- er, I continued on my way to Fend, which I reached at about four o'clock in the afternoon, after a walk, attended with indescribable dangers, that had lasted thirty hours continuously. My hands and feet were frozen, and I had a peasant man immediately subject them to treatment, for he had a secret remedy for my difficulty. I sent on some more men for Cyper, so that, if alive, he could not be with- out abundance of aid. Poor Cyper, however, stayed where I had left him, hoping all the time for help. As soon as he saw the first man coming to him, he said, ' Ferdinand, have you no brandy?' After the man had reached him, and given him a little of the contents of his flask, Cyper said, ' I have now drank too much.' Ferdinand Klotz admonished him to come along, and encouraged him by saying that the way was now short. But Cyper now fell into a delirium, and could not stir a foot. He gave two sighs, and there died in the snow. His dead body was borne by the peasants to my house. Heart-rending, in- deed, was to me the sight of the stiff, pale form of him who had risked his life for me, and whose spirit was now in another world. May every mountain-climber be blessed with a guide like him ! " DOWN THE INN VALLEY.— INNSBRUCK. 347 CHAPTER VI. DOWN THE INN VALLEY. INNSBRUCK. [ T required two more days for me to descend the valley ■*- of the Oetzt and reach the great Inn Valley, which is the main thoroughfare of Northern Tyrol. The Oetzt stream gathers strength by frequent tributaries, and after a few hours' walking along its bank it is found to have assumed the dimensions of a little river. The scenery is ever changing, but never dull and unattractive. Some- times the river almost disappears in a dark gorge, over- hung by half-uprooted fir-trees ; then it spreads out like a cheerful mountain lake. The mountains sometimes seem like two immense confronting harps, so numerous and musical are the high, silvery, thread-like cascades. Occa- sionally one of the cliffs overhangs the road, which often proves to be a narrow footpath, grooved out by hard labor in the past centuries. No vehicles traverse any part of the upper course of the valley. At Solden the road commences, and when I once more saw wagon-ruts, it appeared to me that I had been some days on another planet. On the east of Umhausen rises the precipice of Angel's Wall, so called from the tradition of "the only child of the lord of the castle of Hirschberg having been carried off in sight of his parents by an enor- mous vulture, and, while they were wringing their hands in despair, having been rescued from its talons by an 14& LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. angel." There is a multitude of such legends in the mouths of the peasantry in the Oetzt Valley. Every prominent mountain, water-fall, and gorge has its cluster of them, and the humble people who relate them think you wickedly incredulous if you do not swallow them as willingly as they have done. The priests take good care to foster their superstitious habits, for they thus strength- en their own hold upon the popular mind. On reaching the stage-road of the broad and beautiful Inn Valley I engaged passage for Landeck, which lies at the eastern end. The scenery, during every minute of the three hours' ride, was less grand than that which I had enjoyed for two or three days previously, but it was much more beautiful and tranquilizing. At Brennbuchl dinner was served in the hotel where King Frederic Augustus of Saxony died, on the gth of August, 1S54. lie had been making the tour of Switzerland and the Tyrol, and was riding through the last valley of his route. 1' sudden turn of the vehicle he fell out, and was mortally injured by the horses' hoofs. On being taken to the nearest inn, he died. The blood-stained pillow, the un- disturbed bed on which he died, the flowers and beautiful wreath which he had twined, his little bell, and a number of other objects oi interest, are still to W- seen. The room and furniture remain just as they were twenty years when its loyal occupant breathed his last. The parish church of Landeck was built in the teenth century, though the same site hail been occupied one erected in 1270 Hie 1 istle ■: Landeck is the most conspicuous object to be seen, and a magnificent ■DOWN THE INN VALLEY.— INNSBRUCK. 349 view may be enjoyed from its windows. It was once the home of the founder of the celebrated Schroffenstein dynasty, but is now a deserted and gloomy ruin. Many Roman coins are still found here. I took a second stage from Landeck, late in the afternoon, in order to ascend as far as practicable before dark the upper Inn Valley toward the Finstermunz Pass. The Pontlaz Bridge, over which the road leads, is a very interesting object, on account of the important part it has played in Tyrolese history. The people have often been compelled to defend it against foreign invaders, and they have never failed to manifest a heroism worthy of a bet- ter cause than the support of the Austrian Government. The bridge crosses the Inn just before reaching the vil- lage of Prutz, situated on a low, marshy plain at the entrance of the Kaunser Valley. This valley — a side- piece to the upper Inn Valley, and running off at right angles to it — stretches up to the vast Gebatsch Glacier, which is estimated at sixty miles long and thirty miles broad. One of the most memorable exploits of the Tyr- olese, during the eventful campaign of 1809, took place near the second bridge. I give the account in Sir Walter Scott's words : " The fate of a division of ten thousand men belonging to the French and Bavarian army, which entered the upper Innthal, or valley of the Inn, will ex- plain in part the means by which the victories of the Tyrolese were obtained. The invading troops advanced in a long column up a road bordered on the one side by the river Inn, then a deep and rapid torrent, where cliffs of immense height overhang both road and river. The 350 LIFE IX THE FATHER LAXD. vanguard was permitted to advance unopposed as far as Prutz, the object of their expedition. The rest of the army were, therefore, induced to trust themselves still deeper in this tremendous pass, where the precipices, be- coming more and more narrow as they advanced, seemed about to close over their heads. Xo sound but of the screaming of the eagles, disturbed from their eyries, and the roar of the river, reached the ears of the soldier, and on the precipices, partly enveloped in a hazy mist, no human forms showed themselves. At length the voice of a man was heard calling across the ravine, ' Shall we begin ? ' ' No ! ' was returned in an authoritative voice bv one who, like the first speaker, seemed the inhabitant of some upper region. The Bavarian detachment halted, sent to the general for orders, when presently was heard the terrible signal, 'In the name of the Holy Trinity cut all loose ! ' Huge rocks and trunks of trees, long • pared and laid in heaps for the purpose, began now to descend rapidly in every direction, while the deadly fire of the Tyrolese, who never throw away a shot, opened from every bush, crag, or corner of rock, which could afford the shooter cover. As this dreadful attack was made on the whole line at once, two-thirds of the enemy were instantly destroyed ; while the Tyrolese, rushing from their shelter, with swords, spears, axes, scythes, clubs, and other rustic instruments which could be converted into weapons, beat down and routed the sh.it- 1 remainder. As the vanguard, which had reached Prutz, was obliged to surrender, very tew .>t" the ten thou- sand invaders extricated themselves from the fatal pa DOWN THE INN VALLEY.— INNSBRUCK. 35 I I reached the town of Riecl about dusk, and there spent the night. Welcome letters from home — the first for nearly three weeks — accompanied with an abundance of American news, were sufficient to obliterate all sense of weariness, and almost to render me indifferent to the superb panoramic view of glaciers which a hill-top near the hotel affords. Above the town of Stuben the pass of Finstermunz begins. There is a fine carriage road chipped out of the left side of the mountain, and from this the pedestrian can enjoy at his leisure the remarkable scenery which this pass, only inferior in its kind to the Via Mala in Switzerland, presents from base to summit. The rocky eminences overhanging the road are ornamented with life-like images of the wild chamois. I thought one of them living, and the illusion was not dissipated until I found it impossible to frighten him from his cliff. Cas- cades fall in graceful beauty from the precipitous side of the mountain rising just across the abyss. The infant Inn — whose bed in past ages was hundreds of feet higher right where the broad, smooth hollows in the rocks are yet clearly visible — is fed and strengthened by many a cheerful tributary ; but, without waiting to give thanks for the help it gets, it hastens on to mingle its strain with the harsher notes of the Danube, and afterward to tell its mountain story to the far-off Black Sea. About ten o'clock in the morning I reached the summit of the pass, and looked far down on the web-like bridge crossing the Inn. The little castle of Sigmundseck, built long ago by Duke Sigmund, cleaves to the rock like a 33? LIFE IX THE FATHERLAND. great, beautiful muscle. There is an inn near by, which has a deserted appearance, in perfect harmony with the castle itself. The angle where the two stand forms the boundary between Switzerland and Austria, and off to the right begins the Engadine Valley, which had fairly wearied me with its charms two weeks before. On going a little beyond the Finstermunz, I noticed the dusty volume created by the coming stage ; and from its top could see the waving handkerchief of my genial traveling compan- ion, from whom I had been separated since the first of the week. Unfortunately for me, he had received news which required him to shorten his stay abroad, and I was thus compelled to complete the Tyrolese tour alone. The traveler who has the good fortune to reach Inns- bruck at the close of a bright summer day, when the sun gilds the near cliffs of Martinswand and the distant peaks where the glaciers never melt, receives an impression at once peculiar and permanent — and permanent because of its peculiarity. I had ridden all day, and the most of it on the top of a stage, through the Inn Valley, having started in the early morning at Landeck. The whole road abounds in most picturesque scenery, and uo lover pf nature can trust himself to sleep a half-hour, lest, when he wakes up, his guide-book tells him that he has lost some hoary, ivied, castellated ruin, or a view of some valley branching off at right-angles to the greater one of the Inn. The whole of the long road to Innsbruck has a most interesting known history, not to mention that which has long since passed into the realm of the legendary. \ \o pen can ever narrate the full stor) of those lovely DO WN THE INN VALLE Y.—INNSBR UCK. 353 vales, cheerful streams, and scores of castles and rugged mountains. The castle of Kronburg keeps long in sight, and commands an excellent view both up and down the valley. The Petersberg was the birthplace of Margaret Maultasch, who often held her court here, and made her palace-castle celebrated for beauty, wit, and statesman- ship. Her cradle, long preserved as a relic, has now dis- appeared. The castle proper is a desolate fragment, and, though the most of the dismal ruins of this once proud home of princes, with its donjon-keeps, dungeons, and oubliettes, has passed into a shelter for bats, there are other parts which are still habitable, being occupied by the present owner, Count von Wolkenstein. The village of Stams is remarkable as the seat of a great Cistercian convent. I counted hundreds of win- dows as the stage passed by, and caught glimpses of the beautiful, quiet avenues formed by the old trees in the convent garden. The convent was founded in 1271 by the mother of Conradin, the last scion of the house of Hohen- staufen, who perished on the scaffold in Naples. His mother determined to found an institution where prayer might be offered for the soul of her murdered son ; and it is said that she even went to Naples and brought his body to this place for interment. Had she sought all Europe over, she could not have found a more fitting site for the location of the institution, for the place was at that time in the very midst of an immense oak forest, scarcely ever entered by a whisper from the outside world. The church and convent were finished in 1284 by Count Mein- hard, the second husband of Conradin's mother, who 354 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. died in 1273, only one year after the commencement of the enterprise. Her dust reposes here, as also that of the four children who died before her. Twelve scions of the proud house of Hohenstaufen, who were originally burled in the castle of Tyrol, have been removed hither. In- deed, this is the last resting-place of much royal dust. Mein- hard himself lies here, and also Frederick of the Empty Pocket, his two wives, son, and daughter ; Duke Sigismund the Rich, who died in 1495 ; Maria Bianca, second wife of the Emperor Maximilian I. ; his son and daughter ; Duke Severin of Saxony, Rudolph, Prince of Anhalt, and many others. They all lie in a crypt beneath the church. It was in the convent that the Emperor Maximilian I. first received, in 1497, "the Turkish embassador of the Sultan Bajazet, who sent to demand the hand of Maximilian's sister, Kunigunde, in marriage, promising to become a convert to Christianity." The last most remarkable object in the valley of the Inn before reaching Innsbruck is the celebrated Martins- wand, or Martin's Wall, whose legends can be counted by the score. Many of them are firmly believed, and as fondly remembered, by the Tyrolese peasants. The face of the rock, or rather mountain, fronts the road, and is an abrupt precipice of one thousand eight hundred and thirty- five feet. It has played an important part in Tyn history, the forces occupying its heights almost invariably proving masters of the situation. In the war of 1 Count Arco, the Bavarian general, was shot at its foot by .1 Tyrolese rifleman, who hail placed himself in ambush to Kill the Electoi ol Bavaria as he passed along the road, DO WN THE INN VALLE Y.—INNSBR UCK. 3 5 5 but, misled by the greater splendor of the Count's dress, as he rode beside his master, hit him instead. The known history of the Martinswand is very dry and dull compai-ed with the celebrated adventure of the Em- peror Maximilian — a circumstance which may be half fable and half history — to which it owes its celebrity : — " That enthusiastic sportsman, led away on one occasion in pur- suit of a chamois among the rocks above, by ill-luck missed his footing, and, rolling headlong to the verge of the preci- pice, was just able to arrest himself when on the brink of destruction, by clinging, with his head downward, to a ledge of the rock, in a spot where he could neither move up nor down, and where, to all appearance, no one could approach him. He was perceived from below in this perilous position, and, as his death was deemed inevitable, prayers were offered up at the foot of the rock by the Abbot of Wilten, as though for a person in articulo mortis. The emperor, finding his strength failing him, had given himself up for lost, when a loud halloo near at hand arrested his attention. A bold and intrepid hunter named Zips, who had been driven to the mountains to avoid im- prisonment for poaching, had, without knowing what had happened, also been drawn to the spot while clambering after a chamois. Surprised to find a human being thus sus- pended between earth and sky, he uttered the cry which attracted Maximilian's attention. Finding the perilous nature of the case, he was in a few minutes at the emper- or's side, and, binding on his feet his own crampons, and extending to him his sinewy arm, he succeeded with diffi- culty in guiding him up the face of the precipice along 16 356 LIFE IX THE FATHER LA XD. ledges where, to appearance, even the chamois could not have found footing, and thus rescued him from a situation of such hopeless peril that the common people even now attribute his escape to the miraculous interposition of an angel. The spot where this occurred, now hollowed out into a cave in the face of the rock, is marked by a crucifix, which, though eighteen feet high, is so far above the post- road that it is barely visible from thence. It is now ren- dered accessible by a steep and rather difficult path, and may be reached in about half an hour's walk from Zirl. The cave is seven hundred and seven feet above the river, and the precipice is nearly vertical from the high-road be- low. It is traditionally stated that Maximilian rewarded the huntsman with the title of Count Hollauer von Ho- henfelsen, in token of his gratitude, and in reference to the exclamation uttered by him — which had sounded so welcome to the emperor's ears — announcing that relief was at hand. From the emperor's pension-list, still in existence, it appears that a sum of sixteen florins was annually paid to one Zips of Zirl." On reaching Innsbruck I went to the Star Hotel, which stands on the left bank of the Inn, commanding a fine view of the k rger portion of the charming city on the other side. Innsbruck has a population oi over fourteen thousand. Though it lies really in a valley, it is about two thousand feet above the level of the sea. The mount- ains, which are several miles distant, rise to a height ot six or eight thousand feet above the city, and hence he saying, that "the wolves prowling among the mountain tops look down into the streets." When the Au-t'ian DOWN Till: 1 XX VALLEY.— INNSBRUCK. 357 emperor visited Innsbruck in 1838, the people spelled his name in bonfires upon the side of the mountains, extend- ing over a space of four or five miles. Innsbruck first appears in history in 1027, and in 1234 we find it a walled town, attractive to the traveler because of its natural beauty, and to the marauding princes be- cause of the flourishing trade which had sprung up there. The most imposing building in the city is the Franciscan or Court Church, in which I attended service on Sunday morning. It was a festal occasion, and the large edifice could not contain the multitudes of people who thronged to it. The music was very fine, and was performed by an immense military brass band ; but the mummery of the priests and the peculiar devotion of the people were more like the gesticulations of the dancing dervishes than the worship of people in a Christian land. The greatest ob- ject of interest in the church is the tomb of the emperor Maximilian I., who ordered by will that a church should be erected here, which should be a sepulcher for himself. It was commenced in 1553, and finished ten years later; but, oddly enough, the emperor does not lie here at all, but at Wiener-Neustadt, in the beautiful Gothic chapel of St. George, with his faithful friend and counselor, Die- trichstein, at his feet. The remarkable sarcophagus in the Court Church of Innsbruck, is thus described in Murray's " Handbook for Southern Germany " : " The emperor is rep- resented in a kneeling posture, with his face turned toward the altar, while on each side of the aisles stands a row of tall bronze figures, twenty-eight in number, represent- ing some of the ' worthies ' of Europe, but principally the 35 8 LIFE IX THE FATHERLAND. most distinguished personages, male and female, of the House of Austria. There is something imposing in the first sight of these metal effigies of the great of former days ; they are of colossal size, skillfully executed ; and the elaborate workmanship of the armor and dresses gives them an additional interest, as careful types of the cos- tume of the sixteenth century. They were modeled and cast between the years 1510 and 1561, the work, during this period, being frequently interrupted. The principal artists employed were Gregory Loftier and his two sons, Stephen and Melcbior, Godl, and Hans Lendenstrauch. . . . The sarcophagus itself is inclosed with an iron rail- ing ; its sides are ornamented with twenty -four bas-reliefs, or, rather, pictures in relief, carved in Carrara marble with a beauty and minuteness of workmanship not surpassed by that of an ancient cameo. They are probably unique of their kind. . . . An ascent of a few steps, on the right as you enter the church, leads to the Silver Chapel, so called from the image of the Virgin, and an altar-piece in bas-relief— both of solid silver — which it contains. It was built by Ferdinand II., Archduke of Austria and Count of Tyrol, as a mausoleum for himself and his wife, the famed Philippina Welser — the most beautiful woman of her time — with whom he lived happily for thirty years. Philippina was the daughter ol Franz Welser, one of the wealthy Augsburg patricians. She was born in M Ferdinand first saw her ;t the Diet held at Augsburg in 15.(7, and the toll,, wing year made her his wife. The alli- ance was regarded by the Emperor Ferdinand, the arch- duke's father, as degrading, and it was not until twelve DO WN THE INN VALLE Y.—INNSBR UCK. 359 years after her marriage that she succeeded in procuring access to her father-in-law, when, throwing herself on her knees, she so moved him by her tears and beauty that he acknowledged her as his daughter, and made her two sons margraves. The armor of the archduke is placed aloft on a bracket, while his effigy, in white marble, reclines upon the tomb ; at the back of which are four marble bas-reliefs, masterly productions of art, representing re- markable events in which Ferdinand was present : — i. The capture of the Elector of Saxony by Charles V. at the battle of Miihlberg. 2. Ferdinand appointed Stadtholder of Bohemia. 3. Besieging Szigeth, 1556. 4. Leading the cavalry against the Turkish forces of the Sultan Soli- man. Philippina, who died in 1580, has a separate monu- ment, an altar-tomb bearing a recumbent figure in marble, and decorated with allegorical bas-reliefs, said to be by Colin, but probably the work of his son or one of his scholars, representing works of charity and mercy, with Innsbruck in the background. In a recess against the wall, between these two tombs, are arranged twenty-three small bronze statues of saints, all of royal or noble lineage, chiefly allied to the Hapsburg family. These statues pro- perly belong to the tomb of Maximilian ; they were executed by Elias and Hans Loffler, and are fine works of art. Under the steps leading to the chapel is the tomb of Philippina's aunt, Katharina von Loxau, who is said to have been almost as beautiful as Philippina herself." It is astonishing what stories the Tyrolese tell of the beauty of Philippina Welser ; but if her beauties and vir- tues increase as they have done in the last few centuries, 360 LIFE IN THE FA THERL. IX D. and the Tyrol keeps as thoroughly Popish as ever, she probably will yet become a saint. One of the Tyrolese guides in Innsbruck told me that she was so beautiful, and her skin so thin and transparent, that the veins of her neck told the color of the wine as she swallowed it. In the same church there are monuments to the Tyrolese private soldiers and officers who distinguished themselves by their bravery in opposing the Emperor Napoleon I. The most splendid of these monuments is of white Tyrolese marble, being a statue of Andreas Hofer, who sealed his love to his country by his blood. Hofer was a simple peasant, who gained important vic- tories fur Austria, but was afterward hunted by orci. Napoleon, betrayed by a peasant, and shot in iSio at Mantua. He is represented in the fantastic garb of a Tyrolese peasant, holding an Austrian flag in his hand. The inscription is, " For God, Emperor, and Fatherland." The inscription on the great sarcophagus, erected to the memory of the Tyrolese soldiers who died in the same cause with Hofer, is in Latin, "Death is swallowed up in victory." During my brief stay in Innsbruck I also visited the Parish Church, the Museum, the beautiful promenades along the Inn, and the antiquarian bookstores. Such a mass of Romish trumpery as was to lie seen in those book with a large admixture of Romish pictures, crucifixes, rosaries, and what not. I never care to see again. Unless John Foster had a stronger Catholic tinge in his bibliomania than Ryland attributes to him. he lamb would have been innocent of his CUStomar) "temp- DO WN THE INN VALLE Y.—INNSBR UCK. 3 6 1 tation to buy books," if he had ever had the ill-fortune to wander into the antiquarian depositories of Innsbruck. After an hour's walk from Innsbruck through the Princes' Way, in full view of the great snow-clad mount- ains to the south, I reached the castle of Ambras, having procured a ticket which guaranteed admission to all the objects of curiosity to be seen there. The Tummelplatz is the place where jousts and tilting-matches were held by the knights in former times. I delayed long in the old halls, and wearied the great tinseled guard out of all patience by lingering in the balconies and looking down on Innsbruck, the beautiful Inn, the bleak Martinswand, and a multitude of objects which arrested the eye and chained me to the spot. Soon evening came on. I wan- dered back to the city by a path leading through fields of ripe grain, and spent my last twilight in the Tyrol looking down, from the quaint bridge into the restless river Inn, and fanned by breezes that brought with them a chill, though in midsummer, from those mountain-tops which had become familiar by weeks that I had spent within view of some of them, and by hours, and even clays, passed in the slow but enchanting ascent of others. Who can bid adieu without regret to the charming valley of the Inn ? 362 LIFE IN THE FA THERLAND. CHAPTER VII. THE J I A R T Z . T H E IiROCKEN. T EAVING Bremen by a night train, in the summer ■* — ' of 1S70, we found ourselves in company with a num- ber of German Americans who had just returned to the fatherland, and had caught the spirit of their adopted country, a fact which they exhibited in more ways than one, but especially by their hearty singing of " Old John Brown," and "Tramp." It was bringing back the old clays to hear the familiar notes. After catching as many snatches of sleep as we could in the stations and in the cars, we reached the picturesque town of Wolfen battel, which had once been the residence of the Brunswick dukes, but is now in a state of com- mercial stagnation. Its old and spacious palace is given over to small tradesmen, and its pillars rise from the mud and green slime of all that is left of its firmer moat. To us the only interest of a halt lay in its celebrated library, which contains two hundred thousand volumes and six thousand manuscripts. The librarian .showed us many mementos of Luther, — his leaden inkstand, one o\ his omnipresent beer-glasses, his notes on the Psalms, in his own exquisitely neat handwriting, and his revision of his translation of the Bible. It is significant that nearly all his corrections are confined to the prophecies ol Isaiah and Ezekiel. The gentlemanly librarian showed us other THE HARTZ. — THE BROCK EX. 363 literary curiosities, among which were manuscript letters of many of the most celebrated German litterateurs, and the first edition of Lessing's complete works. It was when Lessing was librarian at Wolfenbiittel that he pub- lished his celebrated " Fragments," which produced the rationalistic conflict in Germany that has not yet ter- minated. The present librarian, Dr. Von Weimann, who has distinguished himself by his contributions to German history, led us through his house and grounds adjoining the library, once the home of his celebrated predecessor. We saw the room in which Lessing wrote his " Nathan," and, across the broad hall, the one where his idolized wife died, and out in the garden the fruit-trees planted by his own hand. I plucked a few leaves from them as memen- tos of the visit. Fortunately, we had a copy of Miss Frothingham's translation of " Nathan " with us, and we enjoyed our spare time by communing with the trees, with the old Jew, Saladin, the Templar, Recha, and the other characters of one of the greatest, but not least one- sided, of Lessing's productions. But Wolfenbiittel is only in sight of the Hartz, and a good many up-hill miles lie between it and famous old Brocken. We spent an afternoon at Harzburg, the hill above which is crowned with the ruins of a temple, said to have been dedicated to the worship of Wustan, or Donnar, and destroyed by Charlemagne, who erected a Christian church in its stead. On the same hill is a stately castle, built by the ill-starred Henry IV., and made the repository of his treasures. We then pushed on to Goslar, the most northern fortified residence 16* 364 LIFE IX THE FA THERLAND. of the old German emperors, and by far the most inter- esting city in the Hartz Mountains. The ancient char- acter of Goslar is still well preserved. One finds himself in the Middle Ages. The walls are standing, for the most part, and nearly all the towers preserve their origi- nal shape. One of them forms a portion of the hotel in which we lodged, and from its summit we had an excel- lent view of the city and of the country for many miles around. My own bed leaned squarely against the old town wall, and, thanks to the weariness of foot travel ! I had no disturbed dreams of tramping invaders and de- structive sieges. The romance of my room, however, flew to the winds when I found out that the intense heat of its atmosphere, inexplicable at first, was produced by the cooking for the whole hotel, as the kitchen lay directly under it. I was, therefore, compelled to spend nearly ail my in-door day time for the two days that we were in Goslar with my traveling companions, the Rev. Dr. A. Stevens and the Rev. C. S. Eby, who were favored with cooler, but less romantic, quarters. Every body who goes to Goslar is expected to visit the mines of Rammelsburg, about a mile from the city. It is said that they owe their discovery t>> the following circum- stance : — When the Emperor Otho I., the son oi Henry the Fowler, founder of the city, was on the throne, one ol his horsemen named Ramm was riding over the hill, and a piece of silver ore was knocked out o\ the ground by his horse's hoof. It was picked up by Ramm and car- ried to the emperor. The emperor rewarded him with a gold chain and one thousand pieces of gold, and. sending THE HARTZ.— THE BROCKEN. 365 for Frankish miners, had the mines worked energetically, and with great success. They were called Rammelsburg, in honor of the discoverer. After being dressed in as dir- ty a mining costume as one would wish to see — a Mam- moth Cave suit is not to be compared to it, — it would have required a familiar eye to detect the identity of any of us, so completely was the propria personse of each of us concealed by the outlandish and subterranean blouses, patched trowsers, and dilapidated pieces of felt in which the venerable old dame arrayed us. We entered by the old shaft, down which the miners had passed for nearly nine centuries, and in due time wound our way through various descents, on slippery ladders, to the place where the ore is now extracted. Gold, silver, copper, lead, zinc, sul- phur, vitriol, and alum are taken from almost contiguous veins. The water is pumped out and the ore brought to the surface by the aid of immense wheels, hundreds of feet below ground. But the whole mining process is utterly antiquated, and it is not surprising that the mines do not pay expenses. The ancient cathedral of Goslar was torn down in 1820, owing to the weakness of its walls. It was built in the year 916 by the Emperor Conrad II., and, according to all accounts, was very magnificent. Only the side ves- tibule is still standing, and bears the inscription : " Propy- lseum aed. Cathedr. tuendis antiq. Germ, monum. instatur. A. D. 1824." It is now the depository of many articles of interest which formerly stood in the original cathedral. Among them is the celebrated " Crodo altar," supposed to have been used for the worship of the Saxon god Crodo. 3 r /> LIFE FN Till'. FATHERLASD It is made of brass, and was once elaborately studded with gems of rare value, but they were taken out by the French, who carried the altar to Paris during the Na- poleonic supremacy. There are some curious antiqui- ties in the Town Hall, the most noticeable of which is the " Biting Cat," a cage in which quarrelsome women were imprisoned in by-gone times, before their sex had laid aside the infirmity of using their tongues to bad ad- vantage. The ancient Guildhall of Goslar is now the chief hotel, and its facade is ornamented with statues of eight of the more celebrated German emperors. As for their mechanical execution, perhaps Heinrich Heine was not far astray when he said that the}' reminded him of •'so many fried university beadles." From Goslar we went to the village of Ocker, and be- gan the passage through the pleasing valley of the same name. Here we were suddenly overtaken by a thunder- storm, and were compelled to shelter under some projecting rocks, until a change in the wind brought the rain square- ly into our faces, and made us search for better protection. This we found, after getting pretty thoroughly wet, in a shed made of fir-bark. We there built a fire, and after resting and getting dry again, spent the remainder of the day in walking to Zellerfeld and Clausthal. The real ascent ol the Brocken from the south-western side, where we made it, begins at I Mcr Teich. There is a tine car- riage-mad on the northern side, but we were compelled to find our way as besl we could through only pathways, and that, too, with a threatening storm above Our heads. From sheer weariness, we could say many a time, with THE HARTZ.— THE BROCKEN. Z C 7 Goethe's grotesque company, who went much faster than we : — " Is our wizard journey ended? Is the Brocken yet ascended ? Round us every thing seems wheeling. Trees are whirling, rocks are reeling — All in rapid circles spinning, With motion dizzying and dinning.' However, we reached the Brocken without undue be- wilderment and the feared drenching', and enjoyed the rare fortune of an excellent view. We were not very high above the sea, only three thousand five hundred and eight feet, yet in the very center of the old German legendary world. More witches, and giants, and dwarfs are said to have lived here than in any other one place in Europe. There is not a German boy or girl who has not heard many stories of the haunted height, and the German juvenile literature of to-day is as abundant as ever in creating new and reproducing old. At the right are the " Hexen- altar," (Witches' altar,) and the " Teufelskanzel," (Devil's pulpit,) on the former of which, as the story goes, human sacrifices used to be made to Woden, and the witches still come to it to celebrate their May-day eve. There are a great many immense boulders near the top of the Brocken, and nearly all of them have their names and clusters of legends. The view is far more extensive than the elevation would lead one to expect, and is really very beautiful. It is by far the finest prospect in Northern Germany. The whole Hartz range stretches right and left, and far off in front lie cities and towns in abundance. Hoary old castles peer 36S life ix THE FA THERLAND. up above the towns, which bask in the sunshine at their feet like disarmed and sleeping guardsmen. Fields care- fully tilled and undivided by fences, extend northward, like unrolled, bright-colored ribbons. Over all this charming landscape were the spent clouds we had been hastening to avoid. Both ends of as perfect a rainbow as I ever saw stood far down in the valley, while the arch rose high in front of us, above all the lesser Hartz peaks and the supreme Brocken. By the aid of a glass we could descry our route for the morrow. It lay to the right, over a rough path which every body declared would require a guide. The most dis- tant mountain visible was the " I Iexentanzplatz," (Witches' Dancing Place,) lying across the chasm through which the sinuous Bode works its way. It is confronted by the Rosstrappe, a spot second only to the Brocken in legend- ary interest, and a very appropriate point for terminating the Hartz tour. Our descent from the Brocken was over the same winding way through which Goethe leads Faust. Mephistopheles, and the Meteor. But, alas! slow and knapsacked pedestrians can hope for no such easy and swift traveling as they experienced : — "Woods— how swift they vanish from us! Trees on trees — how fast they fly us! And tlu- cliffs, with antic greeting, Bending forward ami retreating, Hov they mock the midnight meeting! Ghastly rocks grin, glaring on us, Panting, blowing, as they shun us!" THE WITCHES' DANCING PLACE. 369 CHAPTER VIII. THE WITCHES' DANCING-PLACE. ~"*HE Hartz Mountains are naturally divided into -*~ upper and lower, the upper Hartz being that part lying west of the Brocken, and the lower the portion to the east. Having descended from the Brocken, our road lay eastward, at first amid immense forests abounding in deer. We finally reached an open country, where we passed through the squalid villages of Schierke and Elend, (misery.) The latter was no misnomer, for the poverty and miserable appearance of the inhabitants, who were nearly all charcoal-burners, were quite un-German, and, except the begging, worthy of Italy itself. But as the country improved in fertility the appearance of the people improved with it, and by noon, when we reached Elbinge- rode, we found a thrifty class of people, and comfortable, cosey dwellings. There was nothing that took us to Elbingerode save its convenience as a stopping-place. Its inhabitants are chiefly miners, if such a term can be applied to people who work in- ore that abounds in such large masses as to be quarried in the open air. There is not enough of the old castle now remaining to enable one to identify its origi- nal shape. After a brisk morning's walk of a couple of hours we reached a narrow and romantic valley, in which are the Baumannshoehle and Bielshoehle caves — the for- 370 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. mer of which is noted as the place where bones of the Great Cave bear, now extinct, have been found, while the latter is remarkable for its fine white stalactite.-. An American, however, who has groped and crawled for over half a day in any of the remarkable caves of his own country, need not throw away his time in visiting those of Europe. Still, that of the celebrated Adelsberg, in Austria, is a notable exception, and no traveler from Vienna to Trieste should lose the opportunity of exploring it. After ascend- ing from the valley we came to a frightful plateau, where we had an excellent view of the Upper and Lower Hart/., and an opportunity of hearing some of the simple Hanoverian peasantry describe their hatred of Prussia and the increase of their taxes, with other burdens, since they had been summarily Prussianized. In due time we reached YVilhelmsblick, where some ingenious man had drilled a passage, at right angles from the road, about a hundred feet through the solid rock the opposite side of which he had made a neat upward path, relieved by little ingeniously devised resting-pla to the very top of the mountain. We had a view, on the right, of a magnificent amphitheater of almost artificial perfection, amid wild, romantic scenery; while on the left, we saw the exquisitely winding and cheerful valley of the Bode. At Treseburg, which lies in a delightful mountain i k, our party were compelled to separate, and I con- tinued the tramp alone. It was a walk, or rather a difficult climb, o( two hours to tin- Hexentanzplatz, or Witches' Dancing-place But I had not -one over twenty minutes before regretting ray THE WITCHES' DANCING-PLACE. 37 1 disregard of the advice of travelers and the guide-books by taking no guide, for the forest became very thick and dark. The beaten path had divided into many lesser ones, the most of which were covered with grass and moss, and in some places it was difficult to detect any path at all. It was then after four o'clock in the afternoon, and my ob- ject was to reach the Witches' Dancing-place in time for its sunset view ; but there was now every prospect of being compelled to return to Treseburg. The maps which I had gave but little comfort in the extremity. In fact, I must say, that, for at least that one section of the Hartz tour, there is no reliable map. I do not speak of the large gov- ernment maps, that cover the whole walls of the police- offices. In my perplexity I saw a little rough seat, on which was sitting a solitary, middle-aged German traveler, with knapsack and staff. " Where are you going ? " he said. "To the Witches' Dancing-place, if I can find it," I answered. " You may as well give it up ; here are all the maps and guide-books, and a compass to boot, and yet I have become exhausted in trying to discover the right path. Now I am going to find my way down as I came up, if I can, to Treseburg again." This, to make the best of it, was not a very comforting testimony. After some deliberation, however, we conclu- ded to put our heads together, and make a desperate trial, though my new acquaintance was evidently very weary. We had not gone twenty rods before every thing failed us, and even my companion's pocket-compass seemed very 372 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. untrusty at times ; for when we ought to be going up the mountain, as we thought, it would incline us down again. By his taking one course and myself another, always keep- ing within safe hearing, and sometimes meeting again, we at last found traces of an old, and now unused, forest-road. This was, perhaps, after an hour's uncertain walking. But we forgot the toil, for it gave us a gleam of hope ; and when we saw a fine bronze statue of a deceased forester, mounted on a chaste pedestal of highly polished marble, and then caught a glimpse of one of the present foresters' little huts, where we enjoyed some milk and black bread, and found that we were on the right road after all, and that, too, without much unnecessary walking, we enjoyed our adventure with exquisite delight ; and now that it is all over, but with my companion's pleasant face still like a picture before me, I would not exchange the memory of it for any other experience during the tour. The forester's direction brought us safely to the Witches' Dancing-place, where we found the best-appointed hotel I had seen since entering the mountains. " Shall we not be friends as long as we stay in the Iiartz?" said my companion. " Most gladly," I replied, "so long as Miir tour remains the same." "Suppose we take a room together for the night ?" "Certainly," said 1 ; and 1 doubt if either ofus ever had slept more sweetly than that night, when we occupied the same room, each oi us, like the law, assuming the other to be honest. Before sunsel we had ample opportunity for enjoying THE WITCHES' DANCING-PLACE. 373 the excellent view, by far the most varied, taking all things together, in the Hartz, not even excepting that from the Brocken. The narrow Bode, apparently more beautiful at the outlet than at its rise, had been working its way through the rocks, leaving the smoothly-worn traces of its current upon the higher ones, and now glis- tening and murmuring at the foot of a precipice of eight hundred and forty feet, at the top of which we stood. At our left were the mountains, combining beauty and gran- deur in such rare harmony as can seldom be seen in a single picture ; while directly at our right the mountains terminate, and beginning with the village of Thale, the railroad terminus, you command a view of Halberstadt, Wernigerode, Quendlinburg, Blankenburg, (where Louis XVIII. lived, from 1796 to 1798, under the name of Count de Lille, in perpetual fear of assassination by the French Republicans,) and I know not how many other towns and villages. Directly across the gorge, and rising nearly as high as the Witches' Dancing-place, where we stood, was the Rosstrappe, or Horse's Foot-Print, which takes its name from the tradition of Princess Brunhilde, who, "being pursued by a giant, leaped her horse, which had previously been endowed with supernatural strength, across the gorge to the opposite cliff, where the charger, as he alighted, left the dint of his foot." The next morning, after parting from my new friend, who desired to visit the Brocken, I went on to Victors- hoehe. This point commands a very extensive view of the Lower Hartz and Alexisbad, — a quiet and retired spot, whose neat hotels owe their patronage to the excellent 374 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAXD. mineral water that flows from the rocks near by. I pushed on as far as Harzgerode, in company with a middle- aged peasant man. The Hartz peasants have many expres- sions which, though the persons using them be strangers, are frequently heard on the highways. As we met a boy taking bread out to some harvesters, the man with whom I was walking addressed him with these words : — " A cheerful heart and lively blood." The boy replied : — " A full heart and good courage." The peasant assured me that he had never met the boy before. This calls to mind one of the songs which the watchmen in some of the Hartz towns sing at night. For instance, the night I spent at Zellerfeld the watchman blew a horn at ten o'clock under the hotel window, and sane: these words : — ■& " Now hear me say, all ye good men, The city clock has just struck ten ; Take care of fire, put out your light, Lest you some danger should invite. Praise the Lord, all ye good men ! " At four o'clock in the morning either he or one of his associates returned, and, after blowing his horn, sang : — "The day makes gloomy night our town forsake; Come, people dear, be jolly and awake ! Praise the Lord ! " In the afternoon I took the stage to Nordhausen, a city noted, in a literary way, as the birthplace of Justus Jonas, Luther's friend, and of Gesenius, the Oriental scholar, and, in a spirituous way, for its brandy, In this place, "I" THE WITCHES' DANCING-PLACE. 375 eighteen thousand five hundred inhabitants, the principal branch of industry is the manufacture of brandy. It dis- tills yearly from forty-two thousand to forty-six thousand casks' of brandy, one hundred and eighty quarts being in each cask. This quantity is increased, by the addition of alcohol, to about eighty thousand casks. There are sixty distilleries altogether, and, in 1864, the taxes paid to the Government by their owners amounted to one hundred and sixty-seven thousand three hundred and ninety-one thalers. 376 LIFE IX THE FATHERLAND. CHAPTER IX. CASSEL. — A BIT OF ITS ROMANl E. HMIK most important place lying between the Hartz *- range and Frankfort is the city of Cassel. It was here that the Elector, Frederic II., hired, or rather sold, his subjects to George III. of England, to help him con- quer his revolting American colonies — a traffic which cost twelve thousand Hessian lives, and brought twenty-two million of blood-stained dollars into the ignoble Frederic's treasury. The ruins of an unfinished palace lie in the valley below the city, and near them a magnificent bath- house, now unused, adorned with allegorical sculptures from pagan mythology. From the streets of the city one can see the celebrated Wilhelmshohe Forest, where Na- poleon III. was a prisoner in the same palace in which his uncle Jerome had lived and reveled as king of W phalia. The highest elevation in the forest, lying back n\ the palace, is surmounted by a large edifice This is crowned by a colossal statue of Hercules. The club which he holds will contain nine men. No one conversant with one of the most touching books of recent German literature, William von Humboldt's '• Letters to a Female Friend," can walk the quainl of Cassel without calling to mind the pathetic s< history of thai work. I will give it here, though with re- gret at being unable now to recall the name of my chief ( hi man authority. CASSEL.--A BIT OF ITS ROMANCE. 377 On the 1 6th of July, 1846, a lonely old woman died in a wretched house in the Wilhelmshohe Alley, at Cassel. She was seventy-five years old, and had gained her sub- sistence by her own hands, at work, indeed, which was only suitable for young persons of her sex. Her aged and trembling fingers had also made delicate artificial flowers, and from the workshop of this lonely, sorrowing old wom- an went out the most elegant floral adornments for the gay society of the city. Many tears and sighs of recollec- tion may have accompanied this toilsome labor. For the poor creature who was compelled to plait bouquets and wreaths for her daily bread had once been a young girl of perhaps even greater beauty than the wearers of her work. She had also been happy. The name of the poor old bouquet woman was Charlotte Hildebrand. Her father had been a Hanoverian clergy- man in good circumstances, and she had received a care- ful training and an almost scholarly education. With her nineteenth year she became enthusiastic for " the true, the beautiful, and the good ;" read philosophical writings, composed poetry, and longed for some ideal friendship. Her home was in a lovely part of the mountains rising along the Weser, and the romantic ravines, the green meadows, the towering oaks, and the thatched peasant houses were the familiar, picturesque objects she saw on her excursions. She often wandered to the little hunting seat of Baum, belonging to the Baron of Buckeburg,' which lay in calm solitude in the green wilderness. Here Herder had lived. He was the favorite of the general and phi- losopher William von Schaumburg Lippe, and the friend of 37§ LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. the latter's amiable lady — a princely pair whom the older Mendelssohn honored, and has described in his writings. A monument was erected over the united graves of this couple, who were bound together in a remarkably happy marriage, and this was a place of pilgrimage in those times for prominent poetical and enthusiastic natures. The minister's lovely daughter, too, fed her youthful imagination with dreams of an ideal marriage, but had not the least presentiment that they would never be realized. The memories connected with the hunting castle of Baum, near Buckeburg, proved to be the pleasantest pictures her lonely old age. Other beautiful parts of the mount- ains fringing the Weser were also visited by the young girl when she was accompanied by her parents, who. in accordance with the custom of the times, paid an annual visit to some of the watering places. It was thus that Charlotte Hildebrand became acquainted with the neigh- boring Rehburg; with its incomparable fir-forests and meadows ; with the lovely Eilsen, which, in the deep ravine, with its red-tile roofs, looked like the exterior of .1 fresh apple amid green leaves ; and, finally, with Pyrmont, then the most fashionable watering-place. Under the linden archway of the Pyrmont avenue once sat with her father upon a bench near the cool fountain, when a youth approached and seated himself be ide them, lie hail a threadbare coat, hut gave evi- dence ol good manners; he was homely, but he had an intellectual look. People in Germany easily becam< quainted with one another in these days at the watering- pla< os ; they were not so distrustful ol each other as they CASSEL.—A BIT OF ITS ROMANCE. 379 are now, and in a few minutes the beautiful young girl had led her neighbor into a deeply philosophical conversa- tion. She listened to his words as if they came from a better and previously undreamed-of world, and he was pleased with the lovely being who could listen so intelli- gently and speak so suggestively. The clergyman, who was likewise charmed by the youth, whom he took for a student from Gottingen, invited him to dinner, and they all entered the dining-hall together. It was there discov- ered that the enthusiastic speaker was in reality a Gottin- gen student, but a very eminent one, none other than William von Humboldt, of Berlin, the brother of Alex- ander von Humboldt. It is well known that at that time, and later, William von Humboldt possessed a very plain-looking exterior ; in his best coat he was still gray, small, and thin ; and how must he have appeared in his dusty and worn traveling suit? But his young friend had quickly recognized his mental beauty, and even after the lapse of half a century spoke of the clear repose of his nature, of the salutary effect of his entertaining conversation, of her deep and in- effaceable impressions, and of the sublime emotions that he then awakened in her. During three happy days of a free, unemployed life at a watering-place, the young girl was frequently thrown into Humboldt's society, and when he took his departure he wrote, according to the custom then prevalent, a pathetic sentiment, in her album, but did not utter a word express- ive of the real feelings of his heart. She herself felt infi- nitely enriched, mentally, by his conversation, yet she was 17 380 LIFE IN THE FA THERLAND. too modest, too true and feminine, to cherish a hope of a nearer relation with the prominent and intellectually im- portant youth, in whom she already recognized the future celebrity. This meeting took place on the 16th of June, 1788. Humboldt had expressed his intention of visiting the parsonage in the following August ; but he never went, having remained longer than he had expected with Jacobi in Pempelfort, which was then the gathering place of many of the great intellects of the day. Many a time did she stand at the gate of the small manse door-yard, over- grown with rose-trees and shrubs, and look out for Hum- boldt's visit. She has described somewhere her parental home, and its exquisite situation amid the beauties nature ; a little brook rippled close by the garden hedge, and a shaky stile led into a meadow surrounded by bushes. It was here that she loved to direct her steps when she wished to be alone with her dreams. The autumn mist would undulate like a vail in the moonlight, and call up Ossianic pictures before the eyes of the dreamer. In the quiet of her own chamber she would read her treasured album leaf : — "A sense tor the true, the beautiful, and the good, en- nobles the soul and makes the heart happy; but what is even tli is feeling without a sympathetic soul with whom we can share it? WlLLIAM VON HUMBOLDT. •• Pyrmon r, 178 lint the "sympathetic soul" never came. Instead ol thai there came .1 Doctor Diede, and he sued urgentl) CASSEL.—A BIT OF ITS ROMANCE. 381 Charlotte Hildebrand's hand. She would fain have given him a refusal, but her parents found no fault with him, and desired, nay, almost commanded, that she should accept him. It was the mode in earlier days in Germany, and is even now, to marry off the daughters very early. Charlotte Hildebrand entered into the union without any inclination on her part ; and when she was scarcely twenty years of age she removed to Cassel with her husband, and henceforward lived as Madame Diede. The marriage proved an unfortunate one, and, after five years, the two were divorced. She herself narrates this event with sad- ness : " I was married in the spring of 1789, lived but five years in this childless union, and never married again." Three years after her own marriage, in 1792, William von Humboldt married a rich heiress, Miss von Dachroden, who charmed many men by her intellectual acquirements. The. marriage was perfectly happy and harmonious. They had three sons and three daughters. William von Hum- boldt always spoke of his wife in terms of the highest esteem and love, and his testimony suffices to refute the slanders, now whispered and now outspoken, which have been made against her. By her divorce Madame Diede lost her secure position as wife ; and in the troublous years under the Napoleonic supremacy she lost her whole fortune. She then lived some time in Brunswick, where the good-hearted duke promised her compensation for her losses ; but he fell at Waterloo, and could not fulfill his good intentions. To- tally without means of support, no longer young, but sickly and forsaken, Madame Diede was nearly driven to despair, LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. and did not sec the slightest prospect of securing aid. One day she read in the newspapers an article eulogizing William von Humboldt, who was then engaged as pleni- potentiary of the King of Prussia at the Congress of ma. The precious recollection of the three happy days in Pyrmont gave her courage, in her great need, to apply to the now celebrated and powerful man. She began, with many misgivings and tears, the following letter :— " Not to your Excellency, not to the Royal Prussian Minister — no, I write to the still unforgotten and unfor- gettable friend of ray youth, whose image I have cher- ished in my mind for many, many years ; who never heard again from the young girl whom he once met. with whom he spent three happy days, the memory of which still elevates me and makes me happy. The name upon which the world looks with such great expectations, the position in which you, through your intellectual capacity, have been placed, made it not difficult for me to hear of you frequently, and to accompany you with my thoughts. I have preserved the dear little album-leaf more carefully than any of the little hoi}- relics of youth, as the only joy ..I life which fate awarded me. This leaf, which I big of you to return, will call up to your Excellency an acquaintance which the great pictures and events ^( your lite will long ago have erased. In feminine natures such impressions are deeper and less mutable than they can ever be with others, the more so when they — what si ruples could withhold me, after twenty-six years, from giving you this proof of veneration? — were the firsl un- CASSEL.—A BIT OF ITS ROMANCE. 383 recognized emotions of awakening intellectual love. For the youth of a woman and the development of her charac- ter, the object to which the earliest feelings are attached is of the highest importance. Feelings change with time, but the cherished image once deeply engraved within us never fades away. On this loved image, which appeared my ideal of manliness and greatness, I rested. Here I reposed when I was well-nigh sinking under the weight of my hard life ; here my courage rose when my faith in humanity was shaken. Believe me, ever dear friend, I have ripened amid great tribulation — not dishonored, nor profaned by unworthy feelings." Thus did the poor soul admit the veneration and love which had made her once happy in beautiful Pyrmont, and which she had concealed for a quarter of a century. The Prussian Minister replied to her letter on the same day upon which he received it. He was deeply touched and surprised by this recollection of youth,, and a certain regret might have passed for a moment through his soul, that the once lovely creature had withered unknown and unthought of by him. He felt at the same time the duty of aiding the unfortunate being who trusted in him so implicitly. He wrote to her a letter full of most heart- felt sympathy and the noblest delicacy ; he persuaded her to rely solely on his care ; and really compelled her to accept a sum of money to alleviate her most pressing necessity. Her pride, however, allowed her this only so long as her sickness continued. At Humboldt's express wish she went to G.-ttingen, having been previously in Cassel. She followed his advice to take care of her own 3 §4 LIFE IX THE FATHERLAXD. health, but when she recovered her strength she returned to Cassel, and began her toilsome labor in making bou- quets and wreaths. It was only when Humboldt pleaded urgently that she concluded to accept a small pension from him, which, being paid regularly, greatly assisted in obtaining her daily bread. But there was another gift of her friend Humboldt which furnished her real comfort and imperishable food for her mind — the letters which he began to write, and continued uninterruptedly for twenty years. These have since become the property of the educated world, and serve as a book of consolation for mam - isolated hearts. Who does not know William von Humboldt's " Letters to a Female Friend?" The aged minister wrote with the noblest tenderness of feeling and affecting gallantry, comforting her, inciting her to intel- lectual activity, and communicating to her all that came within the scope of his feeling and observation. The neg- ative spirit of the times has often tried to ridicule the noble letter-writer on account of attentions to a poor old woman. The motive is easily explained, when we remember that nothing attaches a man so firmly to another as the con- sciousness of making a soul happy. This consciousness Humboldt could have, in the fullest measure, in regard to his friend ; his intellectual relation to her constituted the only ray of light of her otherwise dark life. Humboldt saw his aged friend twice again in lite. The two hearts enjoyed in sadness together the faded recol- ions of their youth; and after this their correspond- ence was even ol a more cordial character than before. Nobody ever thought, until the publication of the •• 1 . CASSEL.—A BIT OF ITS ROMANCE. 385 ters," that Humboldt had ever sought out the lonely, miserable dwelling of the poor, forgotten, and once de- spised Madame Diede ; and even the few friends whom she possessed in Cassel never heard about the occurrence. She retained the treasured correspondence most sacredly ; and it was not until after Humboldt died that she made it known, believing it to be her duty then to surrender the rich intellectual treasure for the benefit of her contem- poraries and posterity, and not selfishly keep all to herself. She entered with zeal into the publication of Humboldt's letters, first overlooking them, almost too anxiously, for fear that a possible indiscretion in judgment should es- cape. A young literary person of that period, Theresa von Bacharacht, assisted her in this work, and received the letters in return for support she had earlier given to the poor old creature. Theresa von Bacharacht had made the acquaintance of Madame Diede as teacher, and had become enthusiastic for the intellectual and uncomplaining sufferer, who, in her joy at her young admirer, sent Humboldt a very flatter- ing description of her. Madame Diede lived more than ten years longer than her friend and benefactor, but she had afterward the needed comfort in her old age of receiving from Alexander von Humboldt the pension secured to her by his brother William, and which was punctually paid to the day of her death. Few literary friendships, it must be confessed, have had so romantic a beginning, so faithful a continuance, and so happy a close. 386 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. CHAPTER X. TWO RESTS. OLDENBURG AND HELIGOLAND. \y\7"I'- passed a brief Whitsuntide rest during one of * * our Bremen years in old Oldenburg, the capital of the grand duchy of the same name. It lies north-west of Bremen, and is separated from Holland by a narrow Prus- sian strip. A ride of an hour and a half by rail, through a level tract of turf country, brought us to the quiet, easy- going city. It has all the characteristics, soldiers in- cluded, of an oldtime German capital. The present grand duke, Peter Frederic Augustus, who is very much beloved by his people, does not occupy the palace proper, but a smaller and newer building, which, in point of style and size, is surpassed by many of our better .American homes. For generations the fatality of short life and sudden death seems to have attended all the duchesses and their chil- dren occupying the real palace, and for this reason the present grand duchess will on no account live in it. It is consequently given over to distinguished visitors and state occasions, the ducal family inhabiting the less pretentious building elsewhere. The old palaee is very large, and many of its rooms are tiol inferior to those of more celebrated royal residences in the great capitals. When we went through it a I suite was in process of refitting for the widow ofOtho, the ex-king oi Greece, fhe Augusteum is a neat building, OLDENBURG AND HELIGOLAND. 387 containing" the few masterpieces of painting which the present grand duke has had the good taste and liberality to collect. One of the most celebrated and interesting objects in Oldenburg, however, is the remarkable linden- tree in the cemetery. Its branches have all the general appearance of roots, being gnarled and inclined down- ward. It is from eight hundred to a thousand years old, and stands on an elevation just inside the cemetery. The legend of this tree is, that a beautiful and good young girl was unjustly accused of crime by a young nobleman who could not win her affections, and, to avenge himself, se- cured her condemnation to death by false testimony. On the spot of her execution she broke off a switch from a tree, and, inverting it, stuck it into the ground, and said that, as it would finally become a tree, and its roots would grow above ground, so would it be a constant witness to her innocence. Her last words were, " I know that my Redeemer liveth," which are now inscribed in large gilt letters on one side of the gateway of the cemetery. The nobleman, after her death, repented his crime, declared her innocence, and died of remorse. His last words were, "O, eternity is long!" which are inscribed in similar char- acters on the other side of the gateway. The two inscrip- tions are very prominent, and meet the eye of every one who enters the cemetery. During the summer the grand-ducal family occupy a plain and small cottage in Rastede, a little town lying about twenty minutes' ride by rail west of Oldenburg. Though there is a palace of no inconsiderable size at Rastede, the grand duke does not occupy it, but leaves it to his visitors, 17* 388 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. friends, and state occasions. The grounds lying around the palace are very large, and abound in game. The sta- bles contain sixty-nine horses, each one having its own harness, with name attached. The ex-queen of Greece, like her brother, the grand duke, is very fond of horses, and, when she makes a visit to Oldenburg, has the repu- tation of signalizing it by killing several of- her brother's horses by fast riding ; and no wonder, for she is said some- times to keep pace on horseback with a passenger train of cars. On the Saturday morning that we strolled through Rastede the two young princes took a ride at eleven o'clock, when six horses were led up to the front door, and, just as the clock struck, the eldest made his appearance, clad in a suit of light blue. He bowed pleas- antly to the few bystanders, and was soon off at a quick pace, leading his five attendants. His younger brother, who is quite delicate, did not ride that morning, but amused himself by boyishly peeping in at the windows and doors as we were guided through his father's humble summer residence. This place is a model of simplicity. The ioom of the grand duchess abounded simply in fa- miliar books and the photographs of her friends, anil neither in her room nor in any oilier was there the slight- est evidence of luxury. Even the grand duke's study had no more books than I have often seen on an American sophomore's bookshelf, and his old quill-pens had been as economically pared as if his land were not celebrated for the best geese in Christendom. The entire section of flat land around the city of Olden- burg is singularly devoid ^\ interesting ruins. Tin- Hude OLDENBURG AND HELIGOLAND. 389 Cloister, which is reached by a half hour's walk from a little station between Bremen and Oldenburg bearing the same name, is a notable exception. It is not unlike Ken- ihvorth Castle, and is not less remarkable for historical associations. The chief part of the ruin consists of an immense brick wall, containing many fine windows and graceful archways, the whole perforated here and there by trees, and crowned by ivy of great age and almost fabu- lous size. The Cistercian Cloister of Hude, according to the most reliable accounts, was founded in the year 1236. Because of its possessing a picture of alleged miraculous power, it became a place of frequent pilgrimage in the Middle Ages. It received many valuable gifts, and in time grew very rich. In the fourteenth century it was greatly enlarged, and had three hundred cells, besides chapel, refectory, dormitory, and many adjoining buildings. About the middle of the fifteenth century the decline of the cloister began. It was finally destroyed by Francis, the proud bishop of M "nster, whose love of fine horses led him to demand of the proprietors of the cloister two excellent ones, and who, on his demand being refused, led an army against the great edifice, and destroyed it, the monks escaping only by a subterranean passage. The ruins lie adjacent to the beautiful grounds of Herr von Witzleben, a nobleman of fine taste. The only place where I happened to see the American sweet-smelling calycanthus floridus on the continent was on these grounds, where there was a number of large bushes. By walking two hours beyond the ruins, we reached a German primeval forest. While some of the oaks are of 390 LIFE IX THE FATHERLAND. late growth, others arc of unknown age and extraordinary dimensions. 1 here is one which goes by the name of the " Big Oak." It is not very high, but measures thirty- two German feet in girth. It is a place of frequent re- sort in fine weather, and the inclosed grounds around it are seldom free from excursion parties from Bremen, Ol- denburg, and other places. A plain repast of eggs and black bread, in a peasant's thatched cottage, was a wel- come termination to an interesting and laborious Whit- suntide day, and furnished an occasion for learning more of the household and agricultural life of the North- German peasant than could have been gained by a great many books of travel, even including the excellent sketches of Dr. Kohl himself. I do not recall any excursion we made, during our resi- dence in Germany, of more peculiar interest than the one to Heligoland. It is a little island in the North Sea. reached from Bremerhafen or Hamburg by steamer, after a sail of five hours. It is a triangular chunk of red clay, rising perpendicularly two hundred feet above the water, with its sides hollowed out into fantastic archways and grottoes by the intruding sea. It cannot be measured by miles, but by feet. Its greatest length is six thousand feet, and its greatest breadth is two thousand. I walked around the whole island in twenty minutes. On the southern side a piece <<\ low land makes out into the water, and only here a landing can be effected. The Lowland overed by a village of one hundred houses, chiefly hotels and lodging houses. The few shops contain mostly ' OLDENBURG AND HELIGOLAND. 391 marine curiosities, plain groceries, and articles for bathing. You ascend, by a flight of one hundred and ninety steps, to the Upperland, where the prospect is very fine. We lodged in the " City of London," which stands on the very brink of the precipice. The village on the Upperland con- tains the church, the governor's residence, the light-house, and an old tower. The governor is generally a retired officer, and England has a plenty of such easy positions for those who have done her good service. The present governor is a genial gentleman, and one of the few out of the " six hundred " who returned from the charge of the Light Brigade at Balaklava. There are five hundred houses on the Upperland, nearly all of which have flowers in the windows and little door-yards. On the whole island there is not a single horse or donkey. Every body can walk in the middle of the narrow streets with impunity, and the only sound that you hear is either the occasional salute on the arrival of a steamer, or the town-bell, which rings at three o'clock every afternoon for every body to eat his dinner. There are about five hundred sheep and but two cows on the island. The trees are few and stunted ; but ample compensation for the absence of shade is made by the constant sea breeze which often amounts to a gale. More than once it required more strength than lay in my two arms to open and close our front door, so high was the wind during the ten days we were there. This little speck upon the map has a most interesting history, though down to the fifteenth century much of it is only legendary. Peter Saxe, a historian of North-Fries- land, holds that Heligoland is the "wonderful island" of 392 LIFE IN THE FA THERLAND. Virgil's " ALneid," and that it is mentioned bv Tacitus under the name of Hertha. Helgo, after many a love ad- venture, is said to have given his name to it. According to one legend, St. Ursula came to Heligoland with eleven thousand virgins, but she and her attendants were perse- cuted, and even killed, by the idolatrous people. As a punishment, the greater part of the island was sunk into the sea. The ancestors of the present inhabitants were unquestionably of Frisian origin, and, like all the Normans, pirates. The castle in which Radbod, one of their great- est chiefs, lived, stands on the old maps as a cloister bear- ing the name of Radbodsburg. A "later prince, Eilbert, was baptized, and afterward established a cloister. Like all the Frisian islands, Heligoland belonged to the Duchy of Schleswig, and passed with the latter into the hands of Denmark in 1/ 14. It remained Danish until the great European disruption caused by Napoleon I., when it was taken from Denmark by England, in 1807. Ever since then it has been an English possession. The principal occupation of the humble folk is fishi and their chief markets are Hamburg and Bremen. Wreck- ing is likewise a very important source of revenue. I have the authority of a German writer for saying, that, down to the present century the Heligoland pastor implored the Lord every Sunday morning to send his people a new supply of shipwrecks. The Heligolanders are of very different physiognomy from the Germans. The women are of graceful carriage, line form, clear complexion. pleas- anl and cheerful expression, and regular features. All t lie early and later writers speak of them as remarkable for OLDENBURG AND HELIGOLAND. 393 beauty. The men are tall and stalwart. For seafaring people, they are the most upright I ever met with. We had a great many conversations with different persons, and found them all intelligent and good-principled. Their good morals are attested by all the writers on the island. If further proof were needed, it is found in the fact that the total police force for the two thousand five hundred inhabitants is only six English marines. During the late American war a number of the people went to the United States, and entered the naval service on the side of the Government. At least one Heligolander was in the army, and had the rank of major. He fell at his post in North Carolina. I noticed a fishing boat which bore the name of " Washington." During the early part of the present century, there ex- tended from the southern end of the island a long tongue of land, the extremity of which was a high sand-bank. But the sea broke over this strip, and the bank, which is now greatly reduced in size, constitutes an island of itself, and is a mile distant from Heligoland. It is on this little beach, or dunne, that all the sea-bathing takes place, ex- cept in very bad weather. The bathers are rowed over in boats every day from Heligoland. The hours for bathing are from eight until two in the afternoon. The American who happens to be there, and witnesses the decorum, and absence of all ostentation and dissipation, will be forced to draw a comparison very unfavorable to his own country- men between the manner in which the German visitors to a watering-place conduct themselves, and such scenes as we often witness in America. I never saw, for exam- 394 LIFE IN THE F. I THERLAND. pic, the first instance of intoxication on the part of either visitor or native. The contrast in expense is even more marked. The cost of a comfortable bed-room and sitting-room, with breakfast, is ten thalers a week. We dined and took tea in the hotel, or at the fine restaurant down at the landing, or anywhere else we pleased ; but, in either case, dinner cost about half a thaler, and tea a quarter of a thaler. The bath, including the sail to and from it, cost another half-thaler. The daily expense of each person might be safely reckoned at less than three Prussian thalers, or about two dollars in American gold. Each house is surrounded by a lane or alley, thus con- stituting a block of itself. The brick church has immense- ly thick walls, and is of rude architecture. The pulpit is halfway up to the ceiling, and the ceiling itself so painted that it resembles gaudy furniture-calico. The long collec- tion-bag, made of velvet, is one hundred and three years old, and has a noisy little bell attached to it. We could see no other purpose for the bell than to wake people up when the bag with which it is connected is handed around for contributions. Whenever any one dropped his offering into the bag the collector bowed his head, as much as to say, "Thank you." At the service we attended, the pastor read the announcement of the engagement of two worthy young Heligolanders, and elaborately ex- horted the congregation to pray for them, in view of the important relation into which they had. entered. Think of the engagemenl of young Mr. S . of Forty- ninth-street, to Miss T — , of Fifth Avenue, which had OLDENBURG AND HELIGOLAND. 395 been concluded only two days before, announced by their respective pastors to a large congregation on Sabbath morning. I heard a sermon by the celebrated Rev. Dr. Gerok, the chief preacher of Southern Germany, and author of the homiletical portion of one of the volumes of Lange's " Bible Work," and of those exquisite poetical works, " Palm Leaves " and " Pilgrim Bread," now re-published in London. The grave-yard about the church has some very interesting tomb-stones. The names on them are chiefly Danish and Frisian. One poor-box serves for the whole island. It is stationed in a conspicuous place, with this inscription, from the son of Sirach : " Extend your hand to the poor, that you may be richly blessed." 39^ LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. CHAPTER XI. GERMANY'S ATHENS. 1^1 1 E first time I visited the Thuringian Forest, a re- ■*■ gion rich in literary and historical associations, was in the autumn of 1857, in company with the Rev. Dr. William A. Bartlett, of Chicago. We were then students at Halle, and lodged under the roof of good Erau Midler, with Poles, Hungarians, Germans, and Americans as neighbors. Our home was a Babel only in sound, not in heart. Having agreed on our excursion, we spent a few hours in supplying ourselves with every requisite for a week's tramp. Our knapsacks were faultless, and not only then, but many a day afterward, they did us excellent service. Since then the years have passed by — kindly to both of us — and though I have visited the chinning Forest several times since, nothing has removed the lightful recollection of the companionship and enjoyment of the first. Every reader of " L'Allemagne" will recall the enthu- siasm with which Madame de Stael speaks of charming little Weimar, the first important point in the Thurinj tour. She could well say, " Weimar, more than any other ( ierman principality, makes one feel." It stood alone, then, as the literary center of the continent. Herder had just died ; but Schiller, Goethe, and Wieland were living, and formed the ornament and pride of the little capital .i'.u\ GERMANY'S ATHENS. 397 court of Saxe- Weimar. The Grand Duke Charles Augustus had gathered around him the greatest men in Germany ; and his kindness toward his distinguished countrymen is one of the most striking instances of the special honor given by a ruler to the nobility of mind since the days of the Emperor Augustus, of a greater capital. As Horace and a large group of literary celebrities were favorites of the Augustus who lived beside the Tiber, so did Goethe and Schiller receive the attentions of the humbler Augus- tus, who held his quiet court in the Thuringian Forest. It was no wonder whatever that Weimar was the place from which the young author first expected a criticism on his maiden production. It was at once the study, the studio, and the sanctum of the German land. Madame de Stael held that the prevailing taste of the place was liter- ary, and, as a proof, said, " The women are devoted dis- ciples of the gifted men, and are constantly employed in literary labors, considering these the most important pub- lic interests." But little Weimar is different now from what it was in the closing years of the last century. The sun shines as brightly on the neighboring hill-tops, and the many mountain streams are coursing as cheerfully as ever toward the ocean ; but of the great men who once lived there we can only visit their old homes, stand beside their last resting-places, and pluck from their graves a sprig of myrtle or ivy for the sake of the dead. The very appear- ance of the people is different from that of the citizens of most German towns. The more intelligent still hold in memory the humble greatness of their home, and the most casual observer can see in their very faces that they 398 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. are proud of their little city, and of the part it has played in the history of literature. The true Weimarian expects visitors, and is glad to see them. The traveler, then, should visit the place with the spirit of a welcome guest — as much so as if he were going to sit by a friend's fireside. He should not walk about the quiet streets as if he had but two hours to devote to the little city, and must then be off for another place. On the contrary, he must find a lodging- place, set his pilgrim-staff in the corner, take his knapsack from his shoulders, and prepare himself for a friendly visit. Around Weimar are many beautiful hills and vales. For the purpose of enjoying them we took a iandom walk, and left the city to our left. After passing through a forest of well-trimmed linden-trees the path grew winding, and led through a passage or stairway cut in the solid rock. A narrow foot-bridge spanned a deep-blue, hasty stream, and then the path divided into two or three more. We were now at the edge of a beautiful meadow- vale. The grass was green and fresh, save in little patches where the morning sun had not yet dried the frost We knew not which of the paths to choose, for they all seemed to be equally well trodden. A hou.se stood on the opposite hill. The November morning was cool, but no smoke a from either one of the two little thatched chimneys. There was no quiet farmer walking about the yard and smoking his pipe, as one would see at almost ever)- Country resi- dence in that part of Germany. In tact, there was no appearance ol life and happiness. The house was exceed- ingly plain, ami the coarse gravel used in rough-casting it gave a very irregular surface to the exterior of the walls. GERMANY'S ATHENS. 399 There was a rustic lattice-work attached to the house, completely surrounding it, and extending from ground to roof. There were many dead vines hanging to the lattice, but in the midst of them was one which was living, although neglected. A narrow window was obstructed by cobwebs, and the door, hung with long, old-fashioned hinges, was held by a very heavy, rusty lock. This was Goethe's country home. Here he spent his summers in the evening of his life. The first front gate by which we tried to enter the yard was locked, but the other was open, and we went in and explored the grounds. The inclosure to the garden, or rather grove, is a hawthorn hedge. But it is not what the Englishman would call a hedge, and is by no means a fair specimen of the German heckc, which is always neatly trimmed. Once this Goethean hedge had been well cared for ; but the branches were after- ward permitted to grow in all their wild waywardness. The few acres embraced in the hedge present as many varieties of scenery and appearance as can conceivably be embraced in such a small extent of land. From one end of the house stretches out a little level piece of land, which is used, perhaps, by some neighboring family for a flower garden. Low shelves extend along the inside of the hedge, where, when we visited the premises, many varieties of the chrysanthemum were spread out to dry. At the end of a little bed of flowers is a square block of stone, which serves for the support of a huge stone ball. There is no commemorative inscription on either, but they were placed there to mark one of Goethe's tavorite spots. There are several other places in the grove, however, which 400 LIFE IN THE FA THERLAND. claim the same honor ; and none can mistake their mean- ing, so plainly and unmistakably are they marked. A few rods distant is a beautiful arbor, where the trees which encircle a round space are laden with long-neglected vines. In this rustic nook is a stone table. There is a seat by the side of it ; and here, too, is another spot where the great man used to study. By taking a little meandering grass-grown walk, you come to another table ; but this is oblong, and a long seat stands beside it. It is half en- circled by a stone wall, and in the middle of the semi- circular space is a beautiful block of marble, on which are engraved some familiar lines from " Faust," composed on the spot. This is the place where the great poet con- cluded his " Faust." He did not begin it here, however, for it must not be forgotten that forty hard-working and not very happy years lay between the beginning and the end of the composition of that work. The tables in these secluded places have undergone changes, too, with every thing else about the poet's home. They are beginning to gather moss upon their surface, and are already leaning awry. As we saw them, they were covered by newly- fallen leaves, and the frost-nipped flowers in the half- tilled garden formed a fit accompaniment to the over- grown hedges and the desolate house. While we were examining the grounds, some one came running down the hill, through the thick shrubbery, and wished to know what was the matter. We told him our errand, and asked permission to be shown the house. He informed us thai it was not allowed under any circum- stances, but he fina K changed his mind, and showed us, GERMANY'S ATHENS. 40 1 I believe, every room in the cottage. It was in much the same condition as when Goethe occupied it, and was as fully abandoned inside as were the yard and the garden surrounding it. There are in the house a great many articles of ordinary furniture which had belonged to the poet. There was his little folding iron bedstead in the corner, which seemed scarcely large enough for a school- boy, and was not a whit larger than Napoleon's camp bedstead in the museum at Moscow. On a nail hung the basket in which Goethe used to carry his lunch when go- ing on those charming excursions to Jena, and elsewhere, of which Mr. Lewes has told us in beautiful style and spirit. Later, on our return to the city, we made diligent search for the poet's house in the heart of the place. It was a long time before we found any one who could show us where it was. A peasant, for example, of whom we inquired, did not seem to know that such a man had ever existed. Just think of it ! This Weimar was the place in which the great Goethe had spent the chief part of his working life, had contributed more than any ten grand- dukes together to give it a national reputation, and had, before and after death, attracted thousands to those peace- ful, grave-like streets, and yet a couple of strangers found it difficult at first to learn, from casual passers-by in the street, where the wonderful Titan had lived ! But this is a common European experience. I once spent nearly an entire afternoon in searching for Swedenborg's house in Stockholm, people living in the same street not knowing even the name of their seer. Goethe's town home stands in a dull market-place, 402 LIFE IN THE FA THERLAND. where we saw several wagon loads of hay — in charge of peasant drivers clad in very odd costumes — waiting for purchasers. But all efforts to see the interior of the house were unavailing, " for," said the steward, " the two sons of Herr Von Goethe are at home, and will never, on any account, allow any one to enter and inspect the house." This was only a confirmation of what some per- sons had positively stated ; indeed, in making a search in the first instance we had but little hope of seeing more than the exterior of the dwelling. Murray says that vis- itors may enter on Fridays, but even this was stoutly denied at the door. Schiller did not have as many of life's comforts as the serene, majestic Goethe. Before going to Weimar he had to work hard for his bread, and the world doled out its comforts with a niggardly hand. The grand duke could not make him rich, for he too was poor, and had to part with man)' an ancestral jewel to maintain the literary splendor of his court. Schiller's humble house is in town. It is a plain, small, quaint two-story building, with a diminutive garden or yard in the rear. Over the front doer are the simple winds, " 1 lier wohnte Schiller " — 1 [ere lived Schiller. The three historical rooms are up stairs — the parlor, the bed- chamber, and a small room now used for the sale of liter- ary mementos oi the place. One ^( the first thing strike the eye is ;i good portrait oi President Lincoln. And what more appropriate picture could adorn thehoii.se of the grand German minstrel of freedom ? Schiller and Lincoln! Let them grow together in human 1 GERMANY'S ATHENS. 403 Though an ocean and a century separated them, they both spoke the same sweet language of liberty, had the same sense of man's brotherhood, and entertained the same firm faith in the final triumph of the right. Schiller's bedroom is smaller than I ever slept in at college, and the couch on which he died is simply a little trundle-bed. Here are the wreaths woven and deposited at the poet's funeral. The walls are covered with a poor green wash, and a faded picture of Macbeth hangs beside a window. There is the same porcelain stove that Schil- ler used, and also the plain deal table on which he was accustomed to write. The sight of the drawer in this table called to mind Goethe's story to Eckermann. Goethe related that he once went to visit Schiller, and, finding him out, sat for awhile at his table waiting for him. All at once he became faint, and it was some time before he dis- covered that the odor from decayed apples in his friend's drawer had caused the trouble. Schiller's wife then told him that her husband always kept spoiled apples near him, for they were necessary to his enjoyment and successful composition. I recalled the story to the present proprie- tor of the premises, as we stood before the writing-table, but he absolutely denied that there was any truth in Schil- ler's fondness for apples of that character. A number of fragments of Schiller's manuscripts are to be seen, and a little tuft of his hair and Goethe's at different times of life. On a broad piece of paper is his first draught of the dramatis personce of " Wilhelm Tell." There are scattered here and there, in different parts of the room, a good many objects which Schiller had himself used, such 18 404 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. as his quaint, plain inkstand, a candlestick, his seal, little cups and saucers, and letters. The largest of the three rooms is covered with a carpet, embroidered by the Wei- mar ladies, and presented, as a token of love for the poet, to his home. A Schiller Society has the premises under its care, and in a bookcase one finds the rapidly multiply- ing works on the poet and his writings. It is a complete Schillerian bibliography. It seemed hardly possible that we were standing in a house where was idolized, and sa- credly preserved, each little memento of the man who, in early life, had stood in the middle of the old Frankfort bridge and looked despairingly down into the muddy, rapid Main, only restraining himself by violence from put- ting an immediate end to his stormy and desperate life. There is a little yard in the rear of the house. It is half filled with shrubbery, and the sun has little play upon it. At one corner, where the vines are densest, there is the chair in which Schiller used to sit and study when he grew tired of his room. In another is a fine, large bust of him. The only relief we saw to the miniature autumn scene was a single green stalk of Indian corn, which, in Northern Germany, is regarded tropical, and frequently occupies an honored place among the plants of the elegant home. There is a fine bronze statue of Herder in front o( the city church. The inscription upon the base is plain, but more touching on account of its simplicity: — JollN GOTT F R [ED II E K D E R, Born .u Morungen, August 25, 1744. I >ied .u Weimar, Man h [8, t8 ERECTED 1. \ mm GERMANS Of I \ I K \ LAND. GERM AX ] ' 'S A THENS. 405 The grand duke's big heart had room enough for Herder too, and he had a slab placed over his grave inscribed, " Licht, Liebe, Leben " — Light, Love, Life. The dust of the theologian, philosopher, poet, and historian lies be- neath the slab. Wieland, at his own request, was buried in Osmanstadt, in the same grave with his wife. His old home in Weimar is still preserved with scrupulous care. Schiller and Goethe lie in the grand-ducal mausoleum, in the city cemetery, which is very beautifully situated on a gentle hill-side, and abounds in tasteful monuments. It is well-cared for, and a great many of the graves are beautified with fresh wreaths and bouquets. The grand duke, keeping up until th'e end his affection for the two great poets, provided that after death they should be buried beside him — one at his right, and the other at his left. But royal etiquette has since banished them to a plebeian distance, though not without the thick walls of the mausoleum. Among other celebrated men interred in the' cemetery are Hummel, the composer, and John Falk, the children's friend, whose life has been touchingly portrayed by Stevenson in his " Praying and Working." In the cemetery of the city church is the tomb of Lucas Cranach. The mason who carved his epitaph, inscribed, Pictor celenimits, instead of celeberrimus — not so much of a mistake, after all. 4"''< LIFE IX THE FATHERLAND. CHAPTER XII. T H R E E M E C C A S . WITTENBERG is not within the Thuringian Forest, but is a place generally visited at the same time with the latter because of its historical associations. Some time before one reaches the city its extensive grass- covered fortifications, still kept in excellent condition, are clearly seen. A pleasant walk skirts a grove, and leads past the " Luther Tree" to the chief city gate. This oak tree is very large, and is strong and thriving. It is care- fully inclosed, and protected by police regulations against all damage, — and all because it is the immediate successor of the very one under which Luther burned the Pope's Bull, in the presence of the students and others, on De- cember 10, 1520. After passing through the city you find yourself in a town where one street — and that paved with cobble-stones, and sadly in want of a street commissioner — almost monopolizes the trade. The house in which Luther lived is on the left, and is soon reached. It is part of the old building connected with the university. When I last walked through the streets I found that the Crown Prince and Princess of Prussia had just paid a visit to the city, to attend an industrial exhibi- tion. Luther's house was literally 1 with festoons and wreaths of oak and ivy, in acknowledgment o( the royal honor. All the halls and stairways were a ma THREE MECCAS. 407 wreaths. The principal room in the house still contains some of the furniture used by Luther. The great por- celain stove, designed according to his own direction, is covered on all four sides by reliefs illustrating events in sacred history. There are several old books, and in some of them annotations in the neat and clear chirography of Luther himself. The windows are of little, round, thick panes, and these none the clearest. In one of the rooms is a plain pine^ chair, or, rather, a short bench, in which Luther and his wife used to sit together in the evening, and enjoy the iresh air and busy street scenes. Among other objects of interest are the table on which the Re- former wrote, a drinking-jug, his chair, Cranach's portrait of him, a cast of his face taken after death, and Peter the Great's chalk autograph over the door. Not far distant is Melanchthon's house. A teacher lives in it now, but, as he was not in, his servant showed us the premises. There is but little furniture in the large room on the second floor, where Melanchthon used to spend the most of his time. This room has, clearly, under- gone almost no change since the death of its great occu- pant. But its neglect and destitution, and the entire ab- sence of all effort to make it attractive, give it a peculiar charm. The garden is overgrown with shrubbery. On one side is a thick, time-worn stone table, now quite out of its horizontal, and almost obscured by overhanging trees. This was Melanchthon's table, on which he wrote whenever the weather permitted. On going further along the main street, the same old woman who had conducted me over the place fourteen years before, and who, with her hus- 408 LIFE IX THE FATHERLAXD. band, has been taking strangers to Luther's house and the Castle Church these thirty years, pointed out the iden- tical house, with gable-ends fronting the public square, in which Hamlet used to live. Shakspeare has told us that he studied in Wittenberg, but the old woman's story of his exact residence was a little too much for my credulity, though this might not have been the case if I had nut been trudging along in a drenching rain, in the middle of a very muddy street. The Castle Church, where Luther nailed the ninety-five theses to the door, is at the further end of the town. It is very large, but is not attractive, if we except its impor- tant connection with the Reformation. In the floor are the graves of Luther and Melanchthon. There is no elaborate inscription over them, and their dust is covered by two simple, heavy bronze plates, which are protected by a wooden trap-door. During the celebrated triumphal visit of the Emperor Charles V. to this church, as he at these graves the cruel Alva advised him to take out the dust and burn it publicly. " No," replied Charles Y.. "we make war on the living, nut on the dead!" In the same edifice are the tombs of Frederic the Wise and John the Steadfast, Electors of Saxony, and Luther's stanch friends. Frederic's monument i-> by Peter Vischer. In visiting Erfurt we fell in with a party, all intent upon tin- same object — a visit to Luther's cell. After i rooms we hurried off in search of the cloister whei Re- former had hem a monk. Several persons whom we met in the streets could give no satisfactory answ nir in- quiries as to the locality. One would suppose that Luther THREE MECCA S. 409 had never lived. " Don't know any thing about it," was the actual response we had from as many as four or five people. At last we seemed to be on the right track, and finally passed under the archway of what proved to be a large court, surrounded by a cloistered building. On being told where the place of admission was, we went to it, rang the bell, and soon heard hasty footsteps along the hall. The door was opened by a nun, clad in black, with the usual broad linen collar and black gown. We were as deferential as we knew how to be, in asking to see the cell where Luther had been a monk. The " sister " gave a very porcine grunt as the only answer, and then slammed the heavy door in our faces and bolted it, and left us no wiser than we were before. We were knocking at the wrong door, for it was the entrance to a Roman Catholic nunnery, where Luther's memory was not very tenderly treasured. It took us a good quarter of an hour to find the Protestant Martinsstift, or Orphan House, lying in another part of the city, where Luther's cell really is. We were here received in a friend- ly manner, and ample time given to inspect the stiff old portraits adorning the walls the entire length of the build- ing. The cell is very small, probably not larger than eight feet by ten. Several old missals, which Luther used, are still shown the visitor ; and there are a number of books containing elaborate notes in his own handwriting. The walls are adorned with passages derived, in part, from his works, and in part descriptive of his life. Our guide was not impatient, but allowed us all the time we wished, in spite of the twilight, to examine every little object of inter- 4IO LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. est as leisurely as one could desire. Besides, she had the excellence, so rare in her craft, of not bewildering and dis- gusting you, in the midst of your reflections, by some monotonous set speech on the glories of the spot. It was enough for us to be told that we were where Luther found the light ; the rest belongs to history. The road from Erfurt to Eisenach is very beautiful. We kept to the fine old country roads, and though we were often inclined to throw aside our knapsacks and take the cars, we nevertheless adhered to the pedestrian part of our tour. We ascended one of the Drei Gleichen, — three great castellated ruins covering lofty eminences, — and could overlook a great part of the Thuringian Forest. We spent a night in beautiful, peaceful Gotha. On our wax- up the Wartburg, at Eisenach, we passed the new and stately mansion of the celebrated Low German poet and novelist, Fritz Reuter. In less than an hour afterward we were in the small, plain room where Luther worked with prodigious energy from May 4, 152 1, to March 6, 1522, on his translation of the Bible. The guides have bec<>me ashamed of inking over the place where he threw the ink- stand at the devil's head. Indeed, it would now consume a good sized bottle of ink to carry out the practice, for the spot has grown into an immense patch, covering a I; section of one of the walls. The relic-hunters have not been idleoi late years, for, shortly before our visit, the plas- ter had been pulled from a spot about a foot square ! The low bedstead has suffered some additional kniving, hut the Reformer's table is so heavily bound in iron that its pro- portions will probably suffer but little diminution in future. THR EE . 1 TEC 'CA S. 411 On the table there is a good supply of photographic views and of pocket Testaments — Luther's translation ; and after making a selection from them, and viewing Cranach's pic- ture of the Reformer's parents, we left the memorable little room. Other interesting parts of the castle — if there is any thing interesting after seeing Luther's room — are the hall where the Minnesingers met in 1207 for a trial of their skill, the curious armor, and the tasteful chapel, of interest alike to Catholic and Protestant. To the latter it is interesting because Luther used to preach in it ; and to the former, because of its association with Saint Eliza- beth, the apostle to Thuringia. The Grand Duke of Eisenach has lately subjected the entire castle to a thorough renovation. The breaches that time had made in its storm-beaten walls had been widening for centuries, and now every room in the majes- tic pile, save only Luther's, has been so restored and beau- tified that any visitor who saw it a few years ago would hardly recognize any thing more than the usual out- line of the great structure, and the magnificent hill on which it stands. On leaving the castle our guide took us to an outer corner of a bastion, remarking that, as we were no doubt glad to meet a fellow- American at any time, he would introduce us to one. He thereupon pulled a little chain, when out walked a little black bear, wagging his tail and smelling about our feet in the most amiable manner possible. He had lately been presented to some one connected with the Wartburg, and made the jour- ney all the way from his home in the Rocky Mountains. 18* 412 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. CHAPTER XIII. MARBACH : SCHILLER'S BIRTHPLACE. r I ^HP^ quaint Suabian village of Marbach is the birth- ■*- place of Schiller. It is far in the south, in liberty- loving Wiirtemburg. I left the cars at Stuttgart, where, indeed, one begins to see very decided reminders of the great poet. The powers in that capital once rejected and hunted him as a revolutionist and wild-pate, because of his triumphant "Robbers ;" but the present occupants of the great palace look out from their windows upon Thor- waldsen's statue of him in the square in front. The man whom Wiirtemberg would have been glad to hang three quarters of a century ago. is now the one she looks upon as her greatest son ; to whose button-hole, if he were living, she would tie all her ribbons of nobility, and for whose slender form and pale face she would rear palaces from her richest quarries and her choicest forests. I visited the court chapel in the old palace, the Stifts- kirche, the second-hand bookstores, the Royal Park, and some of the most picturesque of the oldest streets oi~ the Suabian city. At the railway station I had the oppor- tunity of seeing how a royal visitor, who, in this case, was the Queen of Holland, was received. There were some three or lour hundred towns-people gathered, through curiosity, in front of the depot, while as many as a half- dozen Special drivers ami lackeys ill livery were waiting MA RBA CH : SCHILL ER'S BIR THPLA CE. 4 1 3 for the guest. All the court carriages were highly pol- ished, and were designated by the crown, with the nation- al escutcheon painted on each side. One carriage, how- ever, was drawn by white horses, and I soon saw that this was the one intended for the queen. At a given signal there was a general flutter, the carriages fell into line, and the white horses were made to feel the presence of the whip, with an air which seemed to say, " Now, know that royal blood is near, and that you are to be on your best behavior." The queen — who, with a lady at each side, now came quickly from the rear of the station to the front, seemed intent on communicating as much as possible to her at- tendants in a short time — graciously inclined her head to the uncovered bystanders, stepped quickly into the car- riage, and was driven off at a rapid pace. Her attendants took the other carriages, and soon there was no other person in her train to be seen except a sergeant, who, in his Dutch bewilderment, could hardly tell where to be- gin to get his royal mistress's baggage in order. The queen was pale, apparently about forty-five years of age, had light hair, a thin, but ruddy face, and high cheek- bones. She wore a black cloth dress and mantle, em- broidered sparingly with silk of various colors. There was not a cheer to welcome her to the Suabian Court — but these are not always given nowadays in the presence of royalty. I have never yet heard a dozen, though I have been present on several occasions when the people and royalty have come within greeting sight of each other. I was much less favorably impressed with her appearance 4H LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. on this occasion than at a later time, when I had a much better opportunity to see her while visiting her House in the Wood — her country home in the grand park at the Hague. Proceeding to Ludwigsburg, one of Schiller's several Suabian homes, I found that, in order to reach Marbach the same evening, I had to take a post-coach. It proved to be one of the olden time. The driver, Gottfried, (God's peace,) seemed to be a general pet, but no amount of trinkgelds appeared to expedite his movements. I won- dered why he was not more industrious, why he did not make use of his big whip ; but was told that it was through no fault of his that he did not make his horses start. And I soon saw for myself that Gottfried was as innocent as the stars of what had seemed to be an endeavor to make us keep late hours, whether or not. He, poor fellow, could not move an inch without the orders of the officer in charge of the post-office, who, when he was re came tumbling out, and in as authoritative a manner as if Barbarossa himself had spoken, gave Gottfried the follow- ing orders, in the hearing of us all : " See that you depart and arrive in due time at your destination ! " Surely the Neckar never reflected the moonlight more beautifully than on that clear October evening. The road lay along the elevated bank of the river, ami much of the way under branches of trees. Like the Suabian roads in general, this, too, was fringed on both sides by fruit-trees ; but the wayfarer is not allowed t'> pluck the fruit from them. I know the ease .if a child whose father wa compelled to pay a gulden because a single apple MA REACH: SCHILLER 'S BLR TH PLACE. 4 1 5 was plucked on the roadside, near Heidelberg', by the little offender. Along the road that Gottfried was taking us there had often passed armies, from the Roman times almost down to our own ; but especially in the age of the Hohenstaufens — the glory of Suabia, and one of the great- est royal race ever given to Germany's imperial throne. To me, however, it was of as much interest because of its connection with Schiller's name as for an\ other reason. Many a time, when a boy, he had wandered along this pleasing section of the Neckar, and as he lingered bv the water's edge and gathered flowers, and played his un- gainly harp beneath the overhanging trees, he dreamed of his future, wondering what sort of fate was going to be meted out to him. Many a time, after the family had re- moved to Ludwigsburg, he went along the road with his mother to visit his aged grandparents in Marbach. Chris- tophine, Schiller's sister, has prepared for us a sweet little record of one of these juvenile journeys, though this one was not along the Neckar, but by the mountain road. " Once," says she, " when we children were accompanying our mother to our dear grandparents, we took the road from Ludwigsburg to Marbach over the mountain. It was a beautiful Easter Monday, and in the way our mother related to us the history of the two disciples whom Jesus walked with on the way to Emmaus. Her narrative be- came more earnest the further we went, and, as we came to the top of the mountain, we were all so affected that we kneeled clown there and prayed. This mountain was our Tabor." I reached Marbach about nine o'clock at night, and was 416 LIFE IX THE FATHERLAND. directed to my lodgings by several kind villagers, to whom the arrival of the stage was the principal event of the day, and who crowded around every traveler, as if anxious to bid him welcome. As by the aid of lanterns, borne by these friendly hands, I picked my way along the filthy streets of the town, then through the old gateway of the grim, gray tower, then past an old church ruin, how could I forget the history which lies back of all this unassuming, prostrate, but contented present ? Tt is the old story of war and pestilence. As long ago as the Roman supremacy in German}-, Marbach was a thriving town. Ruins, still in existence, prove it to have been an important Roman colony, which served as a meet- ing-point for several important country roads. In the year 978 it appears in history as a part of the Rhenish Franconian diocese of Speyer, and in the possession of the bishop resident there. After the end of the thir- teenth century it was the property of the Count of Wiir- temberg. It was plundered by the Spanish troop Charles V. in the Smalkaldian War, and the French allies of the Germans, under Turenne and Bernard of Weimar, were quartered there in the Thirty Years' War, from 1 to 1646. Notwithstanding all the drawbacks, however, the little city managed to live. In the fifteenth century it had grown so much, on one side, that the Alexander Church was built to satisfy the increased religious wants of the com- munity. But the third war of conquest, under Louis XIV., brought destruction to the town, and in July, [693, the inhabitants oi Marbach were driven out by the French, the city was set on fire, and in a few hours it was a mass MA REACH : SCHILLER 'S BIR THPLA CE. 4 1 7 of ruins. It had taken seven hundred years for the little town to grow to the height of its prosperity, and now it fell in as many hours. In the eighteenth century it began to be rebuilt ; but it had many difficulties to contend with, and was compelled, amid the convulsions of the former half of that century, to quarter the troops of the French, Russian, and Austrian armies. The connection of Marbach with the Schiller family dates from the 14th of March, 1749, when a young man, in military costume, rode along the Neckar to this little town. He came directly from the Netherlands, the win- ter quarters of his regiment, and had taken this oppor- tunity to pay a visit to his native country. His birthplace was Bittenfeld, near Waiblingen. His father had been dead sixteen years, his mother had wandered to the vil- lage of Marbach, and his brothers and sisters had become scattered to Ludwigsburg, Bittenfeld, Neckerems, and Marbach. The soldier came to Marbach because it was now the home of the sister, whom he was especially anx- ious to see. The young officer went to the hotel of the place, the " Golden Lion," which belonged to George Frederic Bodweis, who was a baker, and who passed for a man in good circumstances. This man had a daugh- ter who was seventeen years of age, Elizabeth Dorothea, and in five months from the time when the officer first put foot on the door-step of the Golden Lion, he and the pro- prietor's daughter were man and wife. They became the father and mother of the poet Schiller, and Marbach was henceforth their permanent home. Early the next morning after my arrival in Marbach I 41 3 LIFE IX THE FATHERLAXD. went in search of the house where Schiller was born. It is small, one story and a half high, and, like the most of the houses in the town, and throughout Suabia, is so built as to render all the timbers constituting its frame- work visible. There is no door-yard whatever. You step directly into the house from the unswept street. The house bears the following inscription : " The birth- place of Schiller, who was born November the I ith, 1759, and died May the 9th, 1805." In the middle of the plate containing the inscription there is a medallion bust of the poet. Over the door there is a metallic plate, showing that the house is insured in the Phoenix German Insurance Society. An old-fashioned bell-knob hangs at the door. A young man bade me enter. The room in which Schil- ler was born is at the left, and is not more than eight feet wide and twelve feet long. There, in one corner, is his mother's old spinning-wheel ; some of its smoothness, no doubt, dates back to the boyhood of little Fritz. The wheel is worm-eaten, but the principal parts are still there, and I had no difficulty in making it revolve as much as I pleased. The chief articles of furniture in the room are a secretary, in perfect preservation, and a stove of the olden time. There is a letter, framed, which Schiller's mother wrote to a friend about a servant she was trying to along with. Every line betrayed the fact that- good house- wives had trouble with their domestics over a century and in what we regard the paradise of good servants, the Fatherland. The pictures of the poet's father and mother are well preserved. MARBACH : ^CHILLER'S BIRTHPLACE. 419 The stairway is very narrow, dark, and angular. The front upper room, the largest in the house, is a museum of relics of the poet and tributes to his memory. In a glass case there is an old leathern hat, ten times more ro- mantic than the old broken felt hat of Napoleon, at the Louvre, which he wore at St. Helena. One of the pict- ures is a pencil sketch of Schiller when a young man, clad in peasant costume, and sitting sidewise on a sleepy old donkey, and smoking a long pipe. The picture was sketched by a friend, and taken from life, as Schiller ap- peared one day at Wildbad. There is in another frame something that looks like a little cheap bow-knot of various colors. This, on close inspection, proves to be hair, and the knot is really the hair of Schiller and his family, his own being the red threads. In the table are magnificent copies of illustrations to Schiller's works, presented by authors and publishers. The list of strangers shows many arrivals every day. One large book contains selec- tions from the principal printed testimonials to the poet's greatness, on the occasion, in Marbach, of the hundredth anniversary of his birth. Among them are many of En- glish authorship, Carlyle's figuring prominently. There is a large book-case containing copies of Schiller's works, which are for sale to visitors. There are also pictures of the house ; some large portraits ; crayons of various rooms ; and famous illustrations to scenes in his works. There is in one corner an exact copy of Dannecker's bust of the poet, the best in existence. It is crowned with a laurel wreath. Every year, on the 1 ith of November, the old wreath is 420 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. taken away and replaced by a new one. As it was in October when I happened to visit the house, and the old wreath was soon to give way to a new one, the man in charge gave me a number of the laurel leaves, which I found much more fragrant than the faded roses. To me one of the most interesting objects was a copy of the first play- bill announcing in Mannheim the performance of Schil- ler's "Robbers." In it there is not only the enumeration of the dramatis personal, but also an account, by the poet himself, of the principal points of the play. The public are invited to come early, as the play is long, and cannot be concluded until quite late in the evening. I con- cluded my visit by purchasing some little mementos of the place. The greatest season of rejoicing Marbach has ever had was on the 9th, 10th, and nth of November, 1 at the time of the centennial celebration of Schiller's birth, already referred to. Strangers from all quarters streamed into the town. Presents from all parts of Eu- rope came day after rlay. The far-off city of Moscow, for instance, testified to its love of Schiller by sending an immense bell, which now hangs in the desolate Alexander Church. On one side of it there is a medallion head of Schiller, in relief. Over it is the wool "Concordia;" be- neath it the words, "Gather the loving congregation for worship, for hearty union." Around the bell there : garland of oak and laurel. On the side opposite the bust nl Schiller you read in an open book the words. ■■ I call ,1 " living, and I lament the dea I ; " and under \\ w °rds, further, " bo the home of Schiller from his b> MA REACH: SCHILLER'S BIRTHPLACE. 421 in Moscow, November 10th, 1859." The tribute, with its inscription, will naturally call to the reader's mind Schiller's celebrated " Song of the Bell," which suggested the gift. Schiller's house belongs to the town of Marbach, and the association having charge of it are endeavoring to beautify it, and place it on a good financial foundation. The most elevated point in the neighborhood of Marbach is called the Schiller Height. It affords a fine view of the country for miles around, and the Schiller Association, when it can collect funds enough, proposes to erect there a suitable monument to the memory of little Marbach's greatest son. 422 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. CHAPTER XIV. DOWN THE NECKAR IN VINTAGE-TIME. T N order to go down the Neckar in vintage-time, I left -*- Marbach in the early morning. The picture presented at the quaint old post-house was one of the olden time — just such as might have been seen about a hundred and fifteen years before, when, in all likelihood, that very post- house, and the inn near by, served the same purpose as on the crisp October morning of 1869, when I threw my knapsack on top of the old coach that was to draw me down through the grape region of Wiirtemberg. How did I know but that Schiller's mother, unquestionably a belle of the place, had often looked through the identical panes of glass, in the second story of the inn, through which a couple of boys were now peeping, with laughing eyes, at the stranger below, half hidden in an old Ameri- can shawl ? Our coach was as much one of the olden time as you could well find in the imperial collection oi carriages in St. Petersburg, or in the immense can house in Windsor Castle. As for the horses and the gen- eral outfit of the post-coach, they would have been as much at home in the fifteenth century as in the present. This contact with the remote past, which one experiences every- where in S labia, always gave me a singular pleasure, and has taken a place among my most delightful recollections. The villagers collected around us as we took our pi.. DOWN THE NECKAR IN VINTAGE-TIME. 423 in the stage, and the postmaster came out at last and de- livered elaborate orders to the driver. A band of musi- cians, that had been doing hornpipe service at a village wedding in the small hours of the night before, took possession of a supplementary coach, and we were all soon clattering away over the rough cobble-stones of honest, simple, memorable Marbach. As we passed the house where Schiller was born, the man having charge of it put his head out of a side window — how often had boy Schiller done the same thing ! — to watch the departing stage, and, recoo-nizins: me as one of his visitors and a customer of o o his little memorials, bowed until we turned a corner. We saw him and his shrine no more. It was only after leaving Marbach that I could form an idea of its former importance, and fully realize its actual history. The place had once been surrounded by im- mense walls, and these, now extending far beyond the present dimensions, are more than half-covered with ivy and grape vines. It is the old warrior grown too thin and lean for the neat armor of his strong manhood. You see broad gashes here and there in the massive fortifications, as if some quavers from a South American earthquake had reached them ; and, by the aid of a little fancy, you can detect the scars from balls hurled during the war of the Austrian succession. The walls are still high, but have long ago forgotten their perpendicular, and the vines are doing their best, in their slow but efficacious way, to complete the task of their demolition. The road lay through continuous vineyards all the way to Heilbronn. Not long after leaving Marbach we left 4?4 LIFE IN THE FAT HER LA XI). also the Neckar, and when I had sight of it again, it was as if grasping the hand of a friend. I had the comfort, on the following clay, to see it again at Heilbronn, when it was no longer the little babbling brook, but the vigorous young river, boasting broader hillsides for its vineyards, prouder knolls for grander castles, dashing furiously against the Heilbronn piers, and even claiming a place with the great family of navigable streams. The vineyards through which we passed had no in- closure whatever, and yet the rich clusters hanging by the road side were fully ripe — a testimonial to the proverbial honesty of the Suabian peasants ; or shall I call it a respect for law? The villagers along the road were alive with vintage glee. The coopers were actually at work in the street, getting ready wooden vessels of all sizes for the new wine. In some of the vineyards there were throngs of gleaners, and people were passing to and from these with tubs of grapes, which were deposited in receptacles by the road side. The very air was filled with the per- fume of the vintage, and man and beast seemed to rejoice together that now the reaping-time had come, after a •year of tender and ceaseless nurture of the vines. At Beilstein I ascended a high hill to an old castle, celebrated for its still unscathed tower and the strong walls inclosing it. It bears the name of " Der Lange Hans"— Long Jack — and is so prominently situated that you can see from its top a vast landscape ^\ quiet but exquisite beauty. The upward road lay through vineyards. The depression surrounding the massive outer wall marks the exact outline of the ancient moat, and the bridge crossing it DOWN THE NECK A R IN VINTAGE -TIME. 425 and leading into the castle is so out of its original position, and such a prey to wild-flowers, vines, and weeds, as to make it a perfect gem for the landscapist's pencil. A part of the structure within the inclosure betrays Roman work- manship. The whole ruin is a rare treasure. On our return to the village we stopped to take a look at the now dilapidated church of the knights of Beilstein, the former lords of the whole district. The old stone pulpit is still standing, and the tombstones of the Beil- steins, notwithstanding the numerous fractures and losses, are still distinguishable, but only by the aid of the stone escutcheons of the family. The coat of arms was three bat- tle-axes, in the form of a triangle. Hence the name of the Beilstein knights — Beil meaning ax, and stein, stone. At Heilbronn I found the Suabian vintage in its grand climax. It was no more the quiet thing I had been view- ing for twenty miles, but the real hilarious and crowning glory of the year. The streets and roads were thronged with people, going to and from the vineyards. All classes, both sexes, and horse, donkey, and dog, were willing followers in the train of Bacchus. Those who were not taking any part as laborers in the vineyard came as guests or overseers. I found it, or so it seemed, the grand time for renewing acquaintances and settling differences. The very road sides were thronged with people merely looking at the gleaners. Horses and donkeys drew small carts, and carried the must, or impressed grapes, to the different places of ownership. Peasant women bore on their shoul- ders long wooden tubs, filled with grapes, to the press, or tj the donkey-wagon at the road-side. Press, did I say? 426 LIFE IN THE FA THERLAXD. Yes, in some cases, but not in all. The press was a little machine, something like a fan, and turned by a crank. But this was not the real Suabian way of getting at the juice of the grape. The principal press was the human feet > with jack boots on. The grape-treaders were, in every case I saw, young men, who were tramping in terrible earnest, as if determined to take vengeance on the grapes fur all the labor they had caused. " What sort of boots are those you have on ? " I asked one of the treaders of the grapes when on my way to a tower called the Wartburg. " O, they are old," replied the fellow, good-humoredly. " I suppose you cleaned them well before you got into this tub of grapes ? " " Of course." " But your feet cannot be comfortable, as the grape- juice is certainly quite cold." "They are cold enough, and wet too." If my temperance principles had not been pretty strong already, this would have had some effect in strengthening them. What would the American devotee to imported wines think, as he empties his overflowing decanters, if he could for a moment see these unkempt rustic peasants treading out grapes with their dirty feet ? Heilbronn, or Health Fountain, takes its name from a spring near St. Kalian's Church, ^( alleged healing prop- erty, and flowing out of seven pipes. This fountain is the source of a host of old legends ; but only the most impor- tant one, because connected with the introduction of Chris- tianity into that region, I will here give. DOWN THE NECKAR IN VINTAGE-TIME. 427 Far back in the early period of the Christian era, when a vast wilderness overspread nearly all Germany, the apostles of peace entered this dense forest from a far-off country, in order to extend the doctrines of Christianity. Among the number was the pious Kilian, whose holy calling led him to the inhospitable regions of the Main and the Neckar. Here, where Heilbronn now stands, but where no friendly dwellings were then found, he gradually collected his followers beside the fresh fountain. He preached with great zeal the word of life, and extended to his hearers the boon of Christian baptism. It was not long before he fell, a martyr to his faith, at the hands of the barbarians ; and, although one of his disciples con- tinued the good work, the pure light was nevertheless overcome by the prevailing darkness, and the consecrated fountain was visited less and less by eager seekers of the truth. Many years passed by, and the Lord sent one of his greatest servants, Charlemagne, the strong pillar of Christianity in his times, to this neighborhood. One day the mighty ruler was hunting deer and wild boar in the primeval Scheuerberg Forest. In the middle of the day he and his attendants became very thirsty, and gathered about the beautiful little fountain, or brook, which they fortunately discovered. This was the fountain of the de- voted Kilian, and the crystal water slaked the thirst of the weary hunters. By and by the hunting-horns sounded again for the chase, and the emperor was about to start, when a preacher, whose look betrayed deep sorrow, made his appearance from amid a dark thicket. He was at first overcome by the grand appearance of the hunters ; yet the 19 4^8 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. emperor encouraged him to speak, and tell the secret of his grief. The old man then related the story of the pious Kilian, and added these words : " Great ruler, only a few come here now to receive holy baptism, for the men of this wild country have grown worse in time, and are so set against the pure doctrine of Christianity, that I and my spiritual brethren can gain only a few followers." Charlemagne replied : " Be of good courage ! I give you my imperial word that, as I and my followers have found refreshment at this fountain, so shall it become a fountain of heavenly blessing again to others." Soon after this the emperor sent a great number of ministers to this region, and had a church built over the fountain. Then, in proc- ess of time, the vast forests were felled, and beautiful fields and a peaceful population took their place. Charle- magne called the fountain the "Healing Fountain," and in a little while he had one oi his imperial residences built very near it. The example of the ruler worked | erfully on the inhabitants of the country. The doctrines of the Gospel again reached many hearts, and around the palace and church there gathered a multitude of believers. The historical foundation for this touching legend was found in a German manuscript, which was taken to Rome dining the Thirty Years' War; then found its way to Paris in [796, and in [816 was restored to Germain', and placed in the ducal library of Heidelberg. The old parts of the city of Heilbronn present all the interesting features that characterize the Suabian archi- tecture. The projecting gable fronts, the quaint bay- windows, the stone carvings, the winding stairs, And the DOWN THE NECKAR IN VINTAGE-TIME. 429 enormous and almost unwieldy old pumps, tell of a very old past. The present St. Kilian's Church is a renais- sance treasure from the thirteenth century, though the foundation was laid in 1037. The great bell, cast by Bernhard Bachmann, the father of the famous theologian who won Heilbronn over to Protestantism, is tolled every day at noon. The most interesting object in Heilbronn, to an anti- quarian, is Goetz's Tower, so called because it is the alleged scene of the imprisonment of Goetz von Berlich- ingen. This Goetz of the Iron Hand, an odd fellow withal, was one of the best knights of his time, and, with Ulrich von Hutten and Franz von Sickingen, was the last repre- sentative of the real knighthood of the Middle Ages. His whole spirit was full of honorable strife ; and no sooner did war break out anywhere in Germany, than he offered his broadsword to one or another of the contending par- ties, and was always to be relied upon at the risk of life and every human interest. In 1522, while aiding Ulrich of Wiirtemberg to crush the Suabian Confederation, he was betrayed, captured, and imprisoned in Heilbronn. He was also a participant in the " Peasants' War," and suffered imprisonment in consequence. He left behind one of the most entertaining autobiographies of the period, as it contains a faithful and minute picture of the social and moral state of his times. Goethe made much use of it in his maiden drama, "Goetz von Berlichingen ;" but so far deviated from it as to make Goetz die in the tall red tower in Heilbronn, by the Neckar bank ; while the Knight of the Iron Hand really spent only one night in it, and 430 LIFE IN THE FA THERLAND. survived that night thirty-seven years, dying in peace and freedom in his own castle of Hornberg, lower down the Neckar, when over eighty years of age. He lost his right- hand in one of the battles, but succeeded in having an iron one so skillfully made that he was able to use the sword with it, and to box the ears of any knight of less sincerity and valor than himself who ventured into his presence. From the top of the tower I enjoyed a charming view of Heilbronn and the surrounding country. The premises are poorly kept, and I felt like employing a force of scrub- bers and sweepers to put them in presentable condition. There is one little room containing the rickety chair in which Goetz is said to have sat when a prisoner. On the stair-way there is a full coat-of-mail, standing as a knight prepared for war, representing him of the Iron Hand. The last sounds I heard that night were those of labor- ers returning from distant vineyards, or some place of amusement ; and early in the morning I was awakened by the not unwelcome salutations of the same joyous notes of young men and women going out to glean. The next day I went down the river as tar as Heidel- berg. The whole journey was one of enchanting interest. Old castles fringe the river banks, and in some places there are immense beech-forests. These latter form the dark green meeting-place of the Odenwald ami the Scharzwald. The most picturesque eastles are Mittelberg, Xwingen! Hornberg, and Ehrenberg, eaeli redolent oi tales o\ love and hate, troubled and eventful life, and hasty death. Who shall tell the history of those gray stones? The kindly ivy is ever laboring to prevent your fancy from DOWN THE NECK A R IX VINTAGE -TIME. 43 I delving into the hoary and bloody past, as much as to say, " Judge the past as I do, and cover the misdeeds of your fellows as charitably as I cover these rough gray stones." The chief town is Wimpfen, one-half of which lies in the valley and the other on the hill. Wimpfen on the hill stands on the site of the Roman Cornelia, named after the wife of Julius Caesar. Attila, at the head of his unspar- ing Huns, sacked and destroyed the castle. The whole Neckar region felt the full blast of the Thirty Years' War, and near Wimpfen the imperial army, under Tilly, defeated the Margrave George Frederick, of Baden, in 1622. Near the village of Bottingen is a chapel of unknown age, celebrated for the following: legend: — When all this region was still pagan, a bold and strong young man became betrothed to a beautiful girl. They loved each other devotedly ; but she was a Christian and he still a heathen. He adhered tenaciously to his idols ; and when the girl strove in vain to direct him to the pure Gospel, her sorrow at his course drove her from her peace- ful home into the thick forest, where she secluded herself in a rocky chasm, and prayed day and night for the salva- tion of her lover. Even the wild animals took compassion on the sorrowing one, and daily carried nourishment to her. After some years, she was released from the bonds of her sorrowful earthly life, and the angel of death bore her spirit to the realms of the blessed. Often, after she had gone, did her lover wander through the forest in search of her, but all in vain. One day, as he was hunting, a deer sprang out before him, and remained a moment standing in his presence, and looking at him with a supernatural 432 LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. sadness. The animal seemed to beckon him to follow, and the man followed it to a rocky cell, which he immedi- ately knew had been that of his loved one, for there was an inscription at its entrance, made by the girl herself; besides, the occupants of the valley confirmed his belief. He threw himself down beside the cell, and wept bitter tears of sorrow. Just then the image of the departed one came, as an angel from heaven, into his presence. The soft, sweet spirit of Christianity settled upon him. He resolved to be a Christian ; and immediately afterward went to the city of Worms, where he was baptized by the bishop. Having returned to his native place he built a cottage near the former secluded home of his departed loved one, and lived a hermit, in the retirement of his holy thoughts. He taught the doctrines of Christianity to all who surrounded him, refreshed the weary traveler with food and drink, and showed him the right way through the forest. The fame of his good deeds soon spread far and wide, and pilgrims came from distant places to his lonely cell, and sought from him comfort and strength for the sorrows of their life. Finally, after man}- long years had passed In', and the pious hermit had reached a hoary old age, he one night heard a rap at the door, while a fearful storm was raging without. He immediately arose and opened his door, and stood face to face with a beautiful form and sweet visage. This wanderer was clad in snow- white garments, ami in his eyes there glowed a heavenly peace. The hermit Immediately kindled a fire for him to warm himself by, and placedfood before him ; then kneel- ing, he offered his evening prayer with trembling voice. DOWN THE NECKAR IN VINTAGE- TIME. 433 Arising from his knees, and looking at his guest, he found that the head of the stranger was surrounded with a halo of unearthly splendor. It was the angel of death, who said to him : " God has heard your prayer ; go, now, to your rest, and inherit eternal joy!" Then the stranger kissed the old hermit softly on the forehead, and he sank back — his soul was in the better world. The next morn- ing the old man was found as if in sweet sleep, and he was buried amid the lamentations of the multitude. The vis- itor in the white robe was the archangel Michael. A church was built by the people, and dedicated to St. Michael. Such is the explanation given for the name of the St. Michael's Church in Bottingen, and the height on which it stands is called Michaelsberg, or St. Michael's Mountain. At Neckarsteinach I found myself on familiar ground again. Fourteen years before, I had wandered up there, when a student at Heidelberg, in company with some other young Americans, and had spent the night in the neigh- borhood near the old castle. The next day we threaded the dense forest and visited the four old castles, now in ruins, which belonged to the family that went by the name of the " Landeschaden," or Land's Bane. From the highest one of them we enjoyed a magnificent view of the Neckar Valley for many miles. After resting under some trees of immense size and great age, and getting a humble repast of black bread and poor butter, we took raft for Heidelberg in the afternoon. Our sail, or rather float, was exciting, and the only injury we suffered was to get wet feet, and, before reaching port, an appetite that our friendly peasant raftsman had no means to satiate. 434 LIFE IN THE FA THERLAND. CHAPTER XV. CASTLE WEIBERTREUE. WOMAN'S FIDELITY. /^V\E of my most interesting excursions was to Weins- ^-^ berg, in Wiirtemberg. It lies at the base of the Castle of Weibertreue, or Woman's Fidelity. The i on entering a tunnel, slackened pace very perceptibly. I saw that the tunnel was lighted in some places, and that its arching was supported by an immense number of beams and pillars. On asking why this was, I was told, in the most complacent manner, that the tunnel had been looked upon for some time with great suspicion, and that a caving-in would not be a surprise at any time. On emerging from it into daylight again, we entered upon a valley of rare beauty. The town of Weinsberg was at our left, and rising above it in queenly glory w magnificent vine-clad hill, which is crowned with the still wall-girt ruins of the Weibertreue Castle. We were re- ceived at the station by a good Suabian of the town, who was expecting us. We threaded street after street of the curious place, and finally reached his home in a quaint old dwelling. Soon a lunch was spread tor us, and a-- w and regaled ourselves, our host entertained us with the story of the historical town and of its still more historical eastle. 1 have since found his narrative substantially confirmed by the most reliable authorities on Suabian histoi \ . CASTLE WEIBERTREUE. 435 The history of the castle is really that of the town itself, for in the former lived the ruler (or his representative) of the latter, and his fate, of course, decided that of the men, women, and children in the humble dwellings below his castle. The town was originally a Roman colony, and there is evidence, though doubted by some, that it dates from the Roman Emperor Probus, A. D. 282. It is said that after the Allemanni, whose land had been incorpo- rated with that of the Franks, were conquered by the French king Chlodwig, near the end of the fifth century — the year 496 — much land in private hands was declared imperial property, and was given away by the Frank kings to Frankish or Allemannish grandees. From this time forth the Christian religion made great headway, and the more progress it made the more did the inhabitants ac- quire security of home. The castle on the Weinsberg was built either during the Frankish occupancy, from 536 to 748, or soon afterward, under the dominion of the Carlo- vingians, from 748 to 917. It must have been in the pos- session of a baronial family, judging from the Book of Privileges of the city of Weinsberg of the year 1468. Ac- cording to other sources, the city of Weinsberg is said to have become a part of the see of the Bishop of Wiirtz- burg, and was the head of the chapter in the ninth century. From the year 945 the Knights of Weinsberg took an important part in the German and Swedish wars, and in the great continental tournaments. They were prominent figures for several centuries. On the fields around Weins- berg, now clad With vineyards, occurred that great conflict 19* A"fi LIFE IN THE FATHERLAND. between Count Guelph of Altorf — the guardian of Henry the Lion of Brunswick — and Conrad III., of Hohenstau- fen. The prize at stake was the possession of the estate of Weinsbcrg, and the Hohenstaufen was successful. The contest was bitter, hand-to-hand, and hung long in ths balance. All at once the shouts burst forth from the con- tending forces, "Strike for the Guelphs!" "Strike for the Ghibellines !" — two war-cries which resounded through all Italy and Germany, and were heard for full four hundred years, until the two great parties, self-exhausted, disap- peared before a current of greater interest. The whole of Europe was drawn into the vortex, and divided into friends and foes, the question of partisanship with one or the other often changing the fate of nations. Rienzi, of Rome, around whose strange life Bulwer weaves one of his best romances, was a stout warrior of the Guelphs, and did much to revive their prestige. Every-where the Guelphs represented public liberty, while the Ghibellines were the exponents of personal power. In German} - the Guelphs were the advocates of the rights of the minor princes ami knights against the despotism of the emperors, who were upheld by the Ghibellines. George IV., the late King of Hanover, whose kingdom was absorbed by Prussia in the war of 1866, is a Guelph, and boasts proudly of his ; gree. Queen Victoria, of England, through her con lion with the House of Brunswick, traces her ancestry !'! k to Queen Kunegunde, a Guelphic prince After a heart}- lunch at our Suabian host's ard, we started lor the ruined castle overlooking the town ^i Weinsberg and the broad and charming vale. On our CASTLE WEIBERTREUE. 437 way we came to a beautiful house with back-lying grounds, and, across the street from it, a monumental bust of its former proprietor, Andreas Justinus Kerner, the cele- brated Suabian poet and prose writer. To him, more than any one else, the castle on the hill, at whose foot he lived and wrote, owes the great labor that has of late years been taken to beautify the grounds, and endear it and its story to all Germans. Kerner wrote several ex- cellent poetical works, was a friend and fellow-laborer with Uhland, and, by his earnest songs and hymns, touched many a chord in the German heart. His taste and edu- cation as a physician led him to studv closely the human organism, while his strongly poetical temperament induced him to give a fanciful interpretation to many of its dis- tinctive features. He was a firm believer in demonology in our days, as is plainly proved by his " History of two Somnambulists," :< History of the Possession of Devils in Modern Times," and especially his masterpiece, " The Prophetess of Prevorst." I can find in no sketch of his life a confirmation of the account given by his fellow- townsman, our host and friend in Weinsberg, that he professed to have communion with spirits, a la Stveden- borg, and that the picturesque old tower in the rear of his house was the scene of his preternatural conferences. By a narrow way, with a Norman hedge on either side, we ascended the hill on which the Weibertreue Castle stands. Passing through the portal we saw another way at our right, leading downward. This was the original road to the castle ; and, as we stood beside it and looked down the vista into the town below, we listened to the 43 ic: Leipzig Conservator)-, 210. NANCY : its picturesque; Natural sciences: enthusiasm for their study in Austria, 98. Neander: his literary assistants, 185. Newspaper oddities, - -; ~. New Near visits, n>>t common, 63. Niebuhr, 161. Nordhausen : its brandy manufact- ure, 374. Normal school (Protestant! in Bie- lit.-. Austria, OLDENBURG, 386; ancient linden- tree, and it- legend, 387. ( (rtler peak, 316. PABST, Dr., his literary career and death on the battle-field, - Paris Exposition, 28. Perthes, Christopher Friedrich, 224, Perthes, Justus, 224 : his maps ac- cepted as Government authori ; famous publications, . 1\ u 1m.m11. Augustus : early y< INDEX. 447 242 ; his friendship for Lange, 243 ; life in London, 244 ; he plans an English expedition to Central Africa, 245 : sends Over- weg to the assistance of Barth, 246 ; other exploration schemes, 247, 248. Pincus, Herr, the bibliographer, 220. Piper, Professor, 185. Planche's verses on the Rhine, 50. Pontlaz Bridge, its tragedy, 349. Portugal : educational statistics, 77. Prague University, 155. Printing cheaply done in Germany, 191 ; printing establishments in Leipzig, 211. Professors : Colani, 42 ; Lange, 51 ; salaries, 107 ; selected with care, 10S ; distribution of theological professors in Germany, 112 ; Hit- zig, 118 ; Schenkel, 121 ; Gass, 123 ; Miiller, 126 ; Tholuck, 127, 179, 184 ; Leo, 129 ; Twesten, 136 ; Hengstenberg, 137 ; Dorner, 138 ; Semisch, 139 ; Steinmeyer, 140 ; Trendelenburg, 141 ; Kleinert, 141 ; Messner, 141 ; Doellinger, 144 ; Schelling, 151 ; Niebuhr, 161 ; Hit- ter, 161 ; professors easy of access, 170 ; Piper, 185 ; Neander, 185 ; Jacobi, 185 ; Petermann, 242 ; Vogt, 248 ; Meier, 279 ; professors turn soldiers, 279 ; Pabst, 280 ; Brakelmann, 281. Pulpit and press during the Franco- Prussian war, 298. Rammelsburg Mines, 364. Reformation : in Austria, 94 ; its ef- fect on education, 156. Rhine : its beauty, 44 ; verses by Planche, 50. Ritter, the geographer, 161. Roch, P'erdinand, his poem, " The Landwehrman's Departure," 286. Russian book-trade, 214. Salaries, of German clergymen, 63 ; of university professors. 107. Sanscrit report of the battle of Se- dan, by Von Thielmann, 283. Schelling, his lecture-room, 151. Schenkel : his popular power as a speaker, 121 ; his rationalism, 122; he lacks students, 123. Schiller : his home and tomb, 402 ; his birth-place, 418 ; centennial celebration of his birth, 420. Schnalls, Valley of the, 330. School reformers, 98-103. Schools : controversy on Bible in- struction, 81 ; a lack of Christian instruction in elementary schools, 88 ; plan of studies, 90 ; cost of tuition in Frankfort, 91 ; the sexes educated separately, 92 ; Protest- ant schools in Austria, 94. Scotch universities, their decline, 159. Sedan, reception of the news in Ger- many, 290. Semisch, Prof., of Berlin, 139. Semi, Father Franz, 335 ; his ac- count of the death of " Cyper," 338. Servants, German : wages, perquisites, and fees, 55, 56 ; arrangements for the relief of superannuated serv- ants, 57 ; legal requirements of servants and employers, 54, 57. Sexes, work together in the field, 67 ; educated separately, 92. Sigmundseck Castle, 351. Sigmundskrone, 326. Society, one can choose his own, 62 ; social ceremoniousness, 63. Spain, its educational statistics, 77 ; fewness of universities, 159. Staben, 32S. Stams, its great Cistercian convent, 353 ; a royal burying place, 354. Statistics : {Educational:) of France, 76 ; of Italy, 76 ; of Spain and Portugal, 77 ; of Sweden and Nor- way, 78 ; of Germany, 78-8 T ; of Austria, compared with Switzer- land, 100 ; of Prussian universi- ties, io6 ; of German universities, (tabulated,) 115 ; of Italian uni- versities, 162-164. {Literary :) of book-publishing, 175 ; table of chief German libraries, 189 ; list of prices of works of principal lit- terateurs, 193 ; table of books published in Germany in 1S72- 1873, 212 ; publishing statistics of Russia,. 215 ; of Scandinavia, 215. i Steinmeyer, Professor, of Berlin, 140. 448 INDEX. Stereotyping : increases costliness of book manufacture, 194 ; fatal to interests of authorship, 195. Stifter, Adalbert : the Austrian poet, 254 ; his awkward modesty, 255. Strasbourg: its Minster, 39; bom- bardment of the city by the Ger- man army, 40 ; M. Colani, the theologian, 42. Sweden and Norway : provision for popular instruction, 78. Switzerland : education statistics, 100. T amina River: its curious gorge, 310. Tauchnitz, the publisher, 224. Teachers' Association: of Austria, 97 ; of Germany, 98. Theological departments in German universities, 109. Theology : distribution of professors throughout Germany, 112 ; the young men of Germany on the side of orthodoxy, 123. Tholuck : his intellectual wealth in old age, 127 ; the regularity of his habits, 12S ; celebration of his half-century of work in Halle Uni- versity, 130 ; his first literary ven- ture, 179 ; he employs promising students as literary assistants, 1S4. Trafui, 317. Trendelenburg, Prof., of Berlin, 141. Trifels, Cattle of, 45. Twesten, Professor, of Berlin, 136. Tyrol, The : a journey thither, 309 ; its history, 313; Tyrol Castle, 322 ; delightful scenery, 323. Tyrolese, their fantastic costume-, 313 ; their Catholicism, 315. Universities in ( Germany : Bonn, 50, no; their worth, 1114; compara- tive view of the nine in Prussia, 105 ; their libraries, ro8 ; causes of their prosperity, 108 ; theolog- ic al departments, cog ; Berlin, i" 1 : [35, 1 58 ; I I. die, I lo, 1 25, 1 :- . Leipzig, 111; Basle, 111 ; a reform needed, 1 1 4 ; tabulated statist ics, 115; Munich, 143 ; Prague, 155 ; their \ ici isitudes, 1 50, [57 ; ( i< »i 1- ingen, 157; expenses ol students, 166, 169 ; comparative excellences of universitii losed on out- break of Franco-Prussian war, 2 Universities in EuroDe : the earliest of importance, 153 ; surveillance of Italian schools by the Popes, 154 ; Paris universities, 155 ; the first of England and Germany, 155 ; their decline in Scotland, 159 ; fewness in Spain, 159 ; Ital- ian university statistics, 162. VlNTSCHGAU, 319. Vogt, Karl : the early friend of Agassiz, 24S ; his literary labors, 249 ; his contempt for revelation, 250 ; his views on man's origin, 25 1 . War : normal state of continental nations, 269 ; sympathy of Bel- gium with France, 273 ; enthusi- asm of the Germans on the out- break of hostilities, 274. 270 ; au- thors who fell on the Geld, - war lyric by F. Roch, 286 ; old grudge-- revived, 2.^7 ; calmness with which news of success was received, 289; sympathy and help for wounded soldiers. 292 ; services of the press, 300; Government bul- letins, 300 ; meager correspond- ence of the press, 300 ; Caricatures of the royal family, 301. Wartburg, 41". Weimar in its palmy days, 396 ; Goethe's residences, 399, 4>>i ; house and relics of Schiller, 402; Herder's statue, 404 ; Wieland's tomb, 405 Weinsberg, and its story of woman's fidelity,' 435. Winter in ( lennam Witches' 1 toncing-place, Wittenberg : Luther's house. 406 . Melanchthon's home, 407 ; Ca Church, i"s. Woerth, heroic conduct "\ German w omen in the battle, 293. Wolfenbuttel, it- library, Wretcehks, lien M.. hi- work educational reform. 98. \ 1 \u Market, A Germ \s. 15 17. An Important Historical Series. EPOCHS OF HISTORY. EDITED BY EDWARD E. MORRIS, M.A., Of Lincoln College, Oxford. Head Master of the Hedfordshire Middle-Class Public School, &c. 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