V* I LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. ChapAlllJ Copyright No. UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. f SEP s i»y» '^M-u KEr.Ni; VAl.l LV. THE ADIRONDACK SERIES VRITTEN AND II.I.USTRATKD KATIIIiRlNE H1,I/.ABI-.TH M.CLHLl.AN JOHN BROIVN, or A Hero's Grave in llic Adirondarhs— iSgb KEENE GALLEY— i8g8 SARANAC LAKE {In preparation) LAKE PLACID {In preparalion) COI'YRlLjIir 1S9S KATHKIUNK Hl.I/.AHKTH McCI.F.l.I.AN KEENE VALLEY "/// till Hi\nt of the MoiiiitJiii> BY KATHF.RINE ELIZABETH McCLELLAN PUBI.ISHHD BY THE AUTHOR SARANAC LAKE, N. V. KEENE VALLEY. 1:i(ir>l KHHNH VAl.l.HY I The very name calLs up memories of the most delightful drives along the river road; up and oNcr tlie hills where new vistas of mountain peak and valley meadow are constantly revealed; of trips In' boat through the loveliest of Adirondack waters : of climbs, following trails to the tops of the giants which encircle the valley ; of spins along the picturesque bicycle path : of the pleasures of trout lishing in •■John's Brook." and of a wild chase over Marcy for deer. Such memories and myriads of others may be yours, gentle reader, if this little book proves helptul to you, who are not familiar with the^Valley, by suggesting its many opportunities and varied resources: and to you, who know it well, by recalling faithful pictures of what you yourself have enjoyed. Keene Valley has long been known as tne home of the artist and the haunt of the philosopher, for here nature gives with a lavish hand such a combination of wilderness and peaceful habitation as can be found nowhere else in the Adirondacks. Many men noted in art, science and philosophy come here, year after year, for inspiration and strength. The lofty peaks stand shoulder to shoulder in a long procession, stern, forbidding, rugged, and at their feet the dark Au Sable gurgles and ripples over its pebbly bed as it winds and curves, and is bordered on either side by broad and fertile meadows, with here and there a thrifty looking farm or cottage, all the picture of quiet, rural life. At the head of the Valley, and visible from almost every part of it, stands Noon Mark, so named because at noon the sun stands directly over its peculiarly shaped peak, making it a giant sun-dial, so that all the Valley folk never need miss their nooning. To the south and west, are the irregular peaks of Dix, Camels Hump, Colvin, Resagonia, Wolfs Jaws, Gothics. Skylight, Nipple Top, Haystack and Marcy. To the east the Giant, Hopkins, Baxter and Hurricane. To the north the Cascade range, and beyond it the solitary sentinel, Whiteface, with its seared peak gleaming in the sun. Thus in every direction the mountains loom up. e.ich with some peculiaritv of form or peak, from which it usually derives its name: a ()\\i;r at SABi : few, however. h:ive been nnmed for individuals, nnd occasionally one retains its Indian name, sucii as Marcy. which is so much more suggestive as Tahawus, the Cleaver of the Clouds. The very nearness to all these giants is awe inspiring, sublime and restful. Each mountain, as you see it daily from your piazza, or get to know it more intimately by climbing its rugged sides, while always the same in form, yet ever presents new phases in its varied colorings of foliage, of shifting clouds, of glorious sunset glows. The i-vuil:isting hills! They heiige me roi And hold me safe within the narrow va From all the world's gre.at turmoil not a f Doth penetrate these silences profound. Ah! Life is a paradise in this fair vale. At niorniiij; all the east grows vivid red, And all the hills venect the rosy light; At sunset, warm and mellow rays are she. Adown the valley, while the mountain he; St:uuls t"(ir a moment bathed in yinry hi THE HILLS id Then like a heiiig pure and fa The full moon rises grandly And mounting zenithward sen. iihe pours a flood of light on And views her lace in myri: ,ir as snow, o'er the hills ;ne and slow, all lu-low, id mountain Ah! This is peace; to live at natuie's side. To walk with her at morn and noon and To wander free, with nature for a guide, To drift and dream upon life's gre.it tide, To tlnd from worldly cares a sweet reprie\ The Valley proper has an elevation of a thousand feet, is aboLit a half a mile wide and six miles long. all tourists and traffic pa.ss through it, i>n their wav to their different destinations, while those who can. linger as long as possible in this lo\eI\' spdt. with its numerous attractions. Keene Valley, with its church, post ol'fice, school-house and several well-kept stores, is a loc-;il centre. There is also a pretty little library, where an excellent variety of summer literature can be found, which was a gift to the town in 1897, and has been much appreciated, both by the townspeople and the visitors. Here are large hotels, numerous boarding hou.scs and a numbc-r of pretty cottages to rent, besides the many summer homes, nestling along the river banks, or perched high up on the hillsides. No more beautiful spot can be found with such varied opportunities for drives, walks or climbs. A summer day can be whiled away in rest and quiet beside a mossy bank. 01 in a shady nook, with all the wealth nl xalley and mountain scenery spread out in panoramic display. '[•R Ai: SABI.K lAKK. AC SABl.l-: KIVUK IN Till; VAI I IV. All points can be reached from the Valley, making one's headquarters at the Adirondack House, which is centrally and delightfully situated and offers every advantage for a summer home; the principal drives can be made as half, or whole day trips, while many places are within easy walking distance. Some of those which will more than repay a visit are Mossy Cascade, Watch Rock, Sunset Rock. Phelps' Falls. Ox Bow. Washbond's Flume, Back Pasture. Young's Plateau. Hull's Falls, and Hull's Flume. Through the whole length of the Valley runs the east branch of the Au Sable River, which has its head waters way up on the side of Marcy. and comes tumbling down through deep and narrow gorges, over steep and rocky precipices, and here and there over shallow rapids until it reaches the Valley. There it bends and curves on its winding way to Au Sable Forks, a little town some twenty miles below where it is joined by the west branch, and together they reach Lake Champlain through that wonderful chasm. The Au Sable, which is one of the natural features of Essex Countv. The main road through the Valley follows the river, and is an e.xceedinglv picturesque and beautiful drive, the more so. that it is kept in excellent condition; it is also the stage route. Stages enter the Valley from three directions; with transportation and mail to and from Westport. via Elizabethtown, twice daily; with transportation and mail to and from Au Sable Forks, once a day; also to and from Lake Placid once a day. Tourists for the Valley arrive at Westport. Au Sable Forks or Lake Placid, and enter either by the stage or by private conveyances sent out by the various hotels and boarding houses. Thus, while in the very heart of the mountains, ample opportunities and mail facilities are open for those who wish to keep in touch with the outside world. The unique sight of a guide on a bicycle interests and delights the visitors who stay here. Nowhere else have the guides adopted the wheel, and the members of the Keene Valley Guides' Association are pioneers in this direction. One turns a second time to look at the novel picture, but the convenience and ease with which the pack and paraphernalia can be carried, prove the practical value of the adoption of the innovation. The old-time visitor to the Adirondacks linds many changes to-dav. but none more startling than his Keene V.illey guide on a wheel, — sure evidence of his spirit of progress. ^.f^S: Bg^g^ ^■|*"^ -^.v-.^'-P^^". ^r- \f' m^v.- '^ ' -n-r.': -^ti* -J"' mtitfi"- J %■■ *! &^%^'^"' Mi'l i^^^":"^'- ^^ •• L ''■ ''■^ .•!■. ■^r^Jl/^^^^ iK^'-'^- " .^. ^^ KEENE VALLEY BICYCLE ASSOCIATION was lumu-d in i8q7. and by its enterprise and public spirit a ciiarming and picturesque patii lias been made throuoh tiie Valley, following the river road in the main ; it is now possible to enjoy a spin of several miles, and no doubt the path will be improved and extended from time to time. For those who like to tramp this is a perfect paiadise. well marked trails make it possible to climb nearly all the celebrated peaks, but it will always be advisable to take a guide, unless one is thoroughly familiar with the locality. A new association, known as "The Adirondack Trail Improvement Association." was formed in 1897. with the ostensible object of improving the old, and cutting new trails to peaks at present inaccessible and between various points of inteiest. About forty members have already been enrolled, and many new members will doubtless be added during the present season. These gentlemen are all public-spirited and enthusiastic trampers, and are anxious to add to the attraction of their summer homes, both for their own pleasure and the benefit of the many visitors who come year after year and want new worlds to conquer. At the he, id of the Valley, and some two hundred and seventy-live feet above it. is an CAtended plateau known as Keene Heights. Here are St. Hubert's Inn and cottages and the cottages of the Adirondack Mountain Reserve, besides a number of private summer homes scattered here and there on the various knolls and points of vantage, each commanding some special view of mountain height and valley meadow. This is a charming spot, and fortunate is he who can spend his outing at St. Hubert's. The park known as the Adirondack Mountain Reserve joins the hotel propeity. It is a private preserve of about forty square miles, and includes within its contines some of the loftiest mountain peaks, the beautiful Au Sable Lakes, and the waters of the Au Sable River and Gill Brook, with innumerable gorges, chasms. Humes and waterfalls. The Adirondack Mountain Reserve has built, at great expense, a beautiful drive-way from the lodge at the entiance to the Lower Au Sable Lake, a distance of three miles. A toll is charged for carriages, and the amoLint thus obtained is expended each year by the Association in keeping the road in condition and repair. Game and fish are also protected, but permits to fish in its waters can be had from the Superintendent, and many exciting "catches" are made each season. For it is the policy of the Association to keep its waters well stocked with trout, and to this end fry is added from year to year; no less than ten ADIRONDACK HOl'SK. thousand having been put in in 1897. Game has been fully protected since the organization of the Adirondack Mountain Reserve in 1886, and no permits have as yet been granted to hunt within its limits. During the open season in the Valley the Reserve is a veiv haven ; the hounded deer seem to know where they are safe, many run in and secure protection because of the ever watchful and tireless vigilance of the Game Warden, and it is a common occurrence when rov the lakes to see several deer feeding on the lily pads at their favorite haunts. In all other respects the Reserve is perfectly free to the public so long as their regulations in regard to the destruction of trees, etc.. are observed. The Adirondack Mountain Reserve has never put up a special club house, but owns a number of cottages, each originally built by a member, and occupied by him. At the expiration of a given number of years and for a stipulated sum, the cottage becomes the property of the Association. Thus, while a number of the cottages are still occupied by the original owners, others have reverted to the Association and can be rented for the season. All cottages are furnished and cared for by the Association, and cooking in them is not allowed: members and guests alike taking their meals at St. Huberts Inn. This cottage-hotel life has many charms, and solves the problem of a summer home without responsibility. Nevv cottages are added from year to year to meet the growing demand. The delightful walks within easy reach of St. Huberts Inn aiv too man\- t Au Sable Flume, Roaring Brook Falls. Artist's Falls. Gill Brook Flume and the Rive which should not be missed. Near to St. Hubert's Inn, on a sloping hillside, i^ the Reverend Doctor holds regular services during tl from St. Hubert's and the neighboring cottages. A little library, known as Keene Heights Library, is also on the hotel grounds; besides well-lilled shelves ot the latest books, a large assortment of the daily papers and magazines are found in the reading- room. All literature pertaining to St. Hubert and the historical pictures of him are carefully preserved in the'ir archives. 1 he beautikil legend reads somewhat as follows: Hubert, son of Bertrande, a duke of Guienne. was a lamous hunter, he w.is an unerring marksman, and the number and rapacity of his hunts made him thi. pilV, immi -ha pel Dr. 1)1 riir „A Ml. W.VUDIN. n; nu , bu t R i.ssell Falls. Tl lil are ' ''^ w of those ibo Fels •nh eim. where 11 V th ■ong ■d \'ith guests KHHNi; HHIGHTS MliRAKV. NOON MARK I'KOM THH \A1 ll.V. k;-1-M-. \ am 1 > fe ired as vv'c 11 , admi cd. Lau wild h unl ill th • 1 >rcst if A ticnn a milk whiti. St It, with a s hinin If • kiu It in h iini li V. w: S CO UL-rti. •L-l Ic-SS. ai id Ci ilaii c 0( ix bctv '11 =5^^ with never a tli(ni-ht for Mother Church, he was on a id Fridav. Suddenly in a thicket close at hand appeared his horns, and a warning voice spoke to him of his sins, .•came the Patron Saint of the Chase. He is said to have lived a zealous, earnest life, performing manv miracles before his death, which occurred in 727. Ills body was placed in the Benedictine Convent of Ardain. in the Ardennes, and received the name of St. Hubert, of Ardennes. Of the many delightful trips to be taken, it will only be possible to designate a lew and indicate the others in a table of distances. Perhaps the most pleasing of all is a trip up through the Au Sable Lakes, starting from the Adirondack House, either bv private conveyance or stage.— St. iges mil twice daily,— past St. Hubert's Inn and thro.igh the beautiful Reserve road, with glimpses of Gill Brook on the one side with its falls and Humes, and the river on the other side with its cascades and gorges. Suddenly, making a sharp turn in the road, vou get a vista through the overhanging trees of the Dark Cup, as the Lower Lake is sometimes called, dark with the reflections of the lofty peaks which hem it in on either side. The beauty of these lakes beggars description: they have been vari- ouslv called the •■Gems of the North Woods." and the --Eyes of the Adirondacks." but it is only when seen that theii' beauty can be appreciated. GIl.L HKOOK. ST. Hl'BERTS INN. The Low'ci' L:iki.'. loi\ii'. naiidw nnJ wiiuiiiiii, has walls of piccipitous locks dii cither sale which mount up and up a thousand feet from the hike, so steep and rugged that no man has ventured to cHmb them. Oilvin is on the left, and that wonderful Indian Head, which stands like a sombre sentinel, at the eiitiance to the Like, and frowns down on the dark waters below. Resagonin is on the right, with its seiiated peaks, between which the Rifle Notch Pass can plainly be seen, and just to the right the Gothics appear. Leaving your horses to be cared for, and entering the boat of your guide, — all guides own their own boats, — you make the trip the length of the lake, amid the most picturesque and Swiss- like scenery; at its head you follow a trail of an easy mile along the river banks to the Upper Au Sable, a broad and placid looking lake, in striking contrast to the lower one, with sloping shores dotted here and there with rustic open camps. These camps are built and owned by the authorized guides, and each attests the ingenuity of its builder and the artistic po.ssibilities of bark and twig. Landing at your guide's camp, you have an hour or two for pleasurable discovery, or to watch for the expected deer, while your guide hies him to his wood-pile and kitchen. In a trice the most savory of dinners is rea are excellent cooks. How appetizing it is and how delicious to eat in the open balsam and pine overhead, is proved by the surprising appetite that you have. HAYSTACK AN air. with But all ill the guides the fragrant too soon the AC.LS 0|- Till-: ADIKdNHACK Mdl NTAlN KlSIKVl sh:idows boiiin to li-HLitlirn. and vou rcliictanllv pack Lip tor the return trip. Marcv. Haystack. Skylijiht. the Gothics and Resayonia are all mii'roied in these placid wateis, and if peichance there be a moon, von will have such a trip as you have never enjoyed before: the mountains seem twice their size as the black masses loom up against the moonlit sky, and the grandeur of the scene is surpassingly beautiful. If however, yoLi stay several days in camp, you will be well repaid by the novel experience of such a lite. For here you can row up the river to the Inlet, and by taking a short tramp on the Hlk Lake trail, reach a pmrnontory overlooking the whole Marcy range: you can climb Mt. Marcy from here bv the shoitest and best trail with comparative ease in a single day. Lake trout are also qLiite abundant in the Upper Au .Sable, so that a few days in camp ofl'er many opportunities for sport. The East Hill drive, while rather a hard climb, is one of the trips not to be omitted. An ascent of something over a thousand feet, bv a winding road, brings one to a projecting plateau: here, a little to the left and commanding a magniliceiit outlook, is " Summer Brook," Miss Mann's beautiful summer home, consisting of log cabin, chalet and out-buildings. ••Summer Brook " is a social communitv. which has e.xcited the interest of many thoughtRil visitors, anil presents to the casual observer at least, a ch.irming and helpful phase of community life. Further up the mountain side can be seen "Glenmore." Prof Davidson's Summer School of Fhilosnphv, consisting ol lecture hall, cottages and refectory: niany enthiisiasts assemble heri' anuLiallv to take the vaiioLis coLirses of lectures on philosophy and kindred isms. Making an abrupt turn here, around a ravine a moiiu-nt later the Willev House .appears. From this height the open view that one has to the south and west pieseiits the whole vallev and mount, lin ranges beyond in panoramic succession. Besides the magnificent view an e.xcellent dinner can be had heie. and after a rest the descent is made by another route, where new views appear, with mountain pe.iks hidden behind banks of fleecy clouds which usually gather in the late alternoon and retlecl the gk)iious color ol the setting sun. You reach vour hotel in time tor supper, and the Fast Hill trip remains .is one ol the exeiits ol the season. For a rough, but wildly romantic drive, take the Chapel Pond Road as far as F.uba Mills, going up past the great Slide and Eagle Cliffs, the Giant's Leap, or Roaring Brook Falls, the Fern Caves, and Chapel i'ond itself. The i^ond is a deep bowl bounded on two sides by precipitous walls of rock, weird and wild-looking. The smoke from the opposite shore gives signs of life and habitation, and here indeed is the most novel of picturesque camps, built on the shelving rocks and narrow ledge of land between the towering masses of rock EAGLE Cl.lKKS, CHAI'kl. I'OND ROAD. ;it the b;ick nnd the lake shore. Several times during the season, charming fetes or " Cnmp Fires " are given by the hospitable hostess, and fortunate is he who receives an invitation to these weird and beautiful sights. Beyond Chapel Pond the road is rough and narrow, with high hills and projecting rocks on the one side and deep precipices on the other, but it is wild and beautiful. The return trip can be made from Euba Mills. (ir one can push on to Elizabethtown and return that night or the following day by the direct route, which is also a delightful drive, and the regular stage route between Westport and the Valley. A delightful day excursion can be made to the Cascade Lakes. These lakes are about eleven miles from Keene Valley: taking the river road it is live miles to the foot of the big hill, here begins a steady climb of some si.x miles to an elevation of at least eleven hundred feel above the valley. The lakes are long and narrow, and lie in a deep ravine between Long Pond Mountain. — one of the Cascade range — and Pitch-Off. Long Pond Mountain rises abruptly from the lake shore, and there is only the width of a roadway between the lakes and Pitch-Off on the other side. It is wild and beautiful scenery, not unlike the Lower Au Sable. The lakes are very deep and black-looking, and contain quantities of brook trout : they are the private property of the owner of the Cascade Lake House, and free to lish in. to the gLiests of the house, vv'hile fishing permits are granted to transients. The geologist will find a wealth of specimens of various rare stones and gems on the mountain side near the cascade, which is a little brook that comes tumbling over Long Pond Mountain, with a fall of over eight hundred feet to the lakes below, and from which the lakes and hotel derive their name. ■An excellent trout dinner can be had at the "Cascade." and the return made in the afternoon. If. however, you care to make a two-dav trip, after dinner diive to Lake Placid, nine miles, over a very good road, on the highest plateau in the Adirondacks : to the east are Marcv, Colden and Mclntvre. and straight ahead Whiteface in solitary grandeur. Spending the night at the Ruisseaumont, Stevens House, Grand View or Lake Placid House, the return can be made the following day, with a visit to John Brown's Grave, at North Elba, as a side trip of two miles finm the main road, just after you leave Lake Placid, to return to Keene Valley. This is the veritable grave and home of John Brown, of Ossawatomie fame and Harper's Ferrv maitvrdom. In 1896 this historic farm was given to the state of New York, and made a pari of the National Park of the Adirondacks. Full details of Juhn Bnivvii and his home in the mdiintains, are given in •■ A Hero's Grave in the Adirondacks." i^,^Eri| rm PJ#rX., '"• 'i 5k 1^ ■1 .' ' fti '-^HB ^Kfeir.- - ^■\'f^ m^.^wM iS^"' ■■■r.-^./ S^^ m k ^^^ \ 1 . E-ag, Khl-Ni; \AIJ.1-V FROM h-AS|- HII evergreen, making HEN visiting Phelps' Falls on Prospect Hill, see Old Mountain Phelps him- O'^jfi'^i^/jl ^*^^^- '• possible. You will be interested to have a chat with the oldest ^a/. \^/ ' guide in Keene Valley, who is also something of a philosopher and natural- ist: he can appreciate the beauties of nature, especially the vii-w Ironi Mt. Marcv, Lip whose rugged sides he is said to have cut the lirsl trail. While the summer months ofter so many attractions, yet September and October are the most beautiful of all. This is appreciated here, for the cottagers remain late and the hotels are lengthening their seasons, n the fall the mountains, which are thicklv wooded, present the most glorious masses of brilliant colniinu, with here and there clumps of sombre setting to further enhance the yellow and red. On a frosty morning, when the crackling and snapping of the great logs in the open fire-place you look out and see the early snows on the Giant, then, of health and the buoyancy of renewed life. By ten o'clock and winev. and you are ready to enjoy a game of golf or rListling under foot; then Miss Louise Imogen Qiiincy's lines When pricks the wiiiey air: lis you with warmth all times of the year, do you the sun is warm and mellow tennis, or a brisk walk with eem fitted to the scene : Then we knights of weather, and comfort, and feel the tingle of ind the air 'spicy the fallino leaves When o'er the orchards clamber Cloud masonries of amber: When brooks are silver clear: When conquering colors dare The hills and craggy places And hold with braggart graces High wassail of the year: M;inv guests who have spent the si the wav of Keene Valley, HIizabethtown oh: Since all the birds are quiet, Come forth with pomp and riot, With trumpeting and song; And shout for King October! The blooded, bronzed October! The Saracen October To whom our swords belong. :m:ics or in the L.:ike Placid region. ■ These places are especially beautiful immer :it the .Sa ind Westpoit. of year; there are so many drives about HIizabethtown that it is said, that if one stayed a month, a new drive could be taken each day. The hotels. The Windsor, The Mansion House and Maplewood Inn, all remain open for a very late season. At Westport, a beautiful, rolling country, on the shores of Lake Champlain, one lingers at the Westport inn as long as possible, reluctant to leave and take up once :ig;iin the conventionalities and social routine of metropolitan life. ■fti'lV' ■ :af#' ^ f IV ON THi; TKAl MOUNTAINS DISTANCI-S FROM KEENE VALLEY A list of the inramt:iins in tlie vicinity of Kcene Valk-y. with their elevations, taken from the latest U. S. Geological Survey. There are trails to the tops of nearly all of these, and registers on a number of them, put up by the Appalachian Society. For details in regard to trails and facilities for making these trips, information will be furnished by any of the authorized guides of the Valley or by applying to Mr. W. Scott Brown, Superintendent of the Adiron- dack Mountain Reserve. In regard to the work conteiiiplalL-d In- the Adirondack Trail Improvement Association, intornKitinn can bo had by applying to Mr. William A. White, the President, or to Mr. S. Burns Weston, the Secretary; post-oflice address. Beedes', Keene Heights, N. Y. Hi; Namrs Hkl.his Namps Basin - - - - - 4.f<^^ teet Marcy- - - Ba.xter - - - - - 2,400 " Noon Mark - Colvin - - - Dial - - - - - 4.074 ■• - - 4.'>=-. '• Nipple-top - I'orter - - - Dix - - - Ciant - - - - - 4,«i'4 " - - 4,0== " Resagonia Rooster's Comb Gothics - - - - 4.7v^ " Saddleback - Haystack - - Hopkins - - Hurricane - Indian Head - - - 4,oi,S " - - ->,i',o " - - 2,;oO ■■ Skyliglit - - Slide - - - Wolfs laws - Au Sable Lakes - St. Hubert'- ilnn- Ea: >t Hill - Ch apel l>,.n. J- - Ro arint; Br, 00k 1- Ku ba Mills Hi; ,'h Falls (Bouq Riverside - - - Style's Falls - - Underwood - - Westport Station Westport l.andin; Upper Jay - - NA.MhS Distances Jay VilLige - - - 1; miles Au Sable Chasm - '4 Au Sable Forks - - 20 Schroon Lake - - -,: Lake George - - - =.0 Cascade Lakes - - II Cliffords Falls - - .S Adirondack Lodge - 20 John Brown's Grave 10 Lake Placid - - - 20 Ray Brook - - - 20 Saranac Lake Vill^e -,o " Saranac Lake - - -,i Upper Saranac Lake ■,o Paul Smith's- - - 47 " Loon Lake - - - 00 Rainbow Lake - - 4" Wilmingt.in N,.tch - LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 114 429 7 ^