11 1 Lob
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. XOA I.l.S"
Book oi Si itcmks.
1 'IxMCK. KIl'^'l^EEN CM':ni^
1-. I\(;.\r-LS, PI'HLISIIKK.
Lvnii, Ma»i«
Ladies' Fancy Work!
Have you got INGALLS' SSJJVYf
And Special ^Vliolesale Price List
of 81LK, Fki.t and I.inex Sxa>mi'j:d (iooDs. Kan< ^
WOHK Matkriai.s, Stamping 01 ti-its, Hkii;«;s"
TkANSFEK I'ATTKKXS. FAN( Y WoUK l'>OOK.S. l-tV.
Price 10 <'eiits. It is Ftiiefi/ Illustrated, contains
lots of XcAV -
/^ m\ ■''"''^^■4 f^'olors. for lt>c. t|."» skeins Imported
r^y.J Floss, assorted colors, for 17c. 35 slc. A i)ackajie of PIn.sh and Vel-
vet Pieces for I'razy Patchwork, for JSOc. A package
of Rihhon Keninants for 30c. A packaue of Satin
and Silk Pieces, assoited colors, with Sprai/s of Flotrers
and Outline Desiqns stamped on them, for 40c.
Address J. F. IA'<>AL.r..S, Lynn, Mass.
INOALr^S'
BOOK OF STITCHES
1887 EDITION.
TERMS USED IX KNITTING.
To Cast On. — The first interlacement of the cotton on the neec'le.
To Cast Off. — To knit 2. stitches, and to pass over the second, and so
on to the last stitch, which is to be sfcuroil bv ilrawin^' the thread
through.
To Cast Over. — To bring the cotton forward round tlie needle.
To Narroiv. — To lessen by bringing two stitches together.
To Seam. — To knit a stitch with the cotton before the needle.
To Widen. — To increase by making a stitch, bringing the cotton
round the needle, and knitting the same when it occurs.
A Plain Roxv. — That composed of simple knitting.
To Purl. — To knit with the cotton before the needle.
To Rib. — To work alternate rows of plain and purl knitting.
A Loop Stitch. — Made by bringing the cotton before the needle,
which in knitting the succeeding stitch will again take its own place.
To Slip or Puss (I Sfitc/i. — To change it from one needle to the other
without knitting it.
When it is requisite to cast olT, and continue a row on a separate
needle, run a coarse thread through the cast ofT stitches, as they are
easily taken up when retpiired. — Household.
TERMS USED IN CROCHET.
Chain Stitch. — Chain stitch begins all work, and continues to draw
the thread through until the chain is long enough.
Short Stitch. — Keep one loop on the needle, put the needle into the
stitch and draw the thread through it and the loop at the same time.
Single Crochet. — Put the needle into the stitch, and draw the thread
through it, and then put the thread over and draw through both loops
together.
Long Crochet. — Put the thread over needle before you put it into the
work, draw the thread through work, then thread over and through
two loops, and again thread over and through two loops.
Open Crochet. — Make one long crochet, then one chain stitch, and
omit orJpass over one stitch of the work, make one long crochet into
next stitch.
CRAZY PILLOW.
A crazy or autograph pillow is a piece of common cotton canvas,
the size you want your pillow, which you pass around among your
friends, letting each one work something on it. Each one contrib-
utes her mite, anything and anywhere she chooses, and when all have
worked, the owner fills it in, and finishes it the same as any other sofa
pillow. Some nice patterns for crazy pillows will be found in our
book of loo Worsted Cross-Stitch Patterns; price, 25 cents, by mail.
itt-^U.S luR A PIANO COVER OR TAUl.K Ll.ulH.
DESIGN FOR A PIANO COVER OR TABLE
CLOTH.
This engraving reprCvSents a very handsome design for
a table spread, piano cover or stand cloth. The model
from which this illustration was copied is made on garnet
wool canvas, with a rich, gold-colored floss, and is prob-
ably as effective a combination as can be suggested.
However, personal taste, and the prevailing tint in a room
where the article embroidered is to be used, must direct
combinations. It is not necessary to use canvas, as cloth,
felt or Canton flannel maj' be preferred; but the meshes
of the canvas will be found of great assistance in following
the pattern with regularity of stitch. The work is all
don^ in a long back-stitch, or sort of Kensington stitch,
and is extremelv effective.
Stitches and Foundation Fabrics.
A. LIST and explanation of the fobrics and working ma-
terials used in embroidering fancy articles, hangings,
coverings, tidies, etc. Also, directions for and illus-
trations of various stitches. With the exception of
two or three, the stitches are all variations of the
cross-stitch, and are generally familiar, although
there are many to whom they yet remain an unsolved
mystery. The Alpha of all stitches is probably the
"Gobelin," or " tapestry" stitch, but it is one which
should not be taken up first by the beginner, for
various reasons. We will proceed to describe the
ordinary stitches.
f
SOlTIi KKNSIN(iT(»N SI ITCH.
At South Kensington. Eng-
lanfl, some ladies of the no-
bilitv have established an art
school, in which all stvles of
needle-work, antique and
modern, are taught. One or
two of these stitches have
taken quite a hoLl upon the
affectioTis of the embroidery-
loving woman, and for the
want of a better name each
is called "South Kensing-
ton Stitch." It will thus be
seen that the article "a" is
the appropriate one to use,
and not " the," since there is more than one stitch belonging to the
South Kensington School. The stitch, however, which has gone abroad
in printers' ink as the South Kensington, is clearly illustrated by
the engraving. It will be seen that it is nothing more than a back-
stitch, the stitches being made to fit in between each other with no
special regularity, except to produce perfect shading. The outline of
the design is stamped, and must be perfectly even w hen worked ; but
the interior of the petal or leaf is to be filled in according to the shape,
and shaded to the taste, or the pattern if there be one to copy. Eng-
lish crewel is the proper working worsted for this stitch. Another
stitch, known in the school n\entioned as the " Stem Stitch," is herx;
called th^ " Outline."
-«-
'^•^*-
SDUJH KENSlN(iTON OUT-
I.INK STITCH
It cunnot be clearly ex-
plained ill words, but
mav be comprehended at
once by inspection of the
engraving. It forms an
unbroken outline, which
appears like a finely
twisted silk cord. It is
ve ry ■ effective on satin,
and is used for such de-
signs as statuary with
flowing draperies, Cupid,
game, etc., looking when
finished, like a fine pen and ink drawing. One panel done on old gold
satin, with dark olive embroidery silk, is exquisite. There is no filling
in or Shading; it is simply the outline that is followed; and also the
strokes which would be made Avith a pen to represent drapery, or any
of the other details of an unshaded sketch. It is very effective in fo-
liage, butterflies, animals, etc., and may be made on almost any article
of fancy work, as well as used for marking linen.
SATIN STITCH
Is done in all sorts of flosses, embroidery silks, zephyrs and crewels,
and upon silk, satin, velvet, cloth and canvas. The pattern must be
stamped and then " run"' along all the lines with silk or worsted, and
SATIN STITCH.
DKRIGNS rOR FF.ATHKR STITCH.
nch leaf and petal, if of
^'ood si/c, must be crossed
ami reerossed with the
same, all before the real
< 'nliroidery bef,Mn.s. There
11 list be HO break in the
' liufe of a leaf or petal, and
' iiiise(]uently each stitch
iiist be carefully and even-
ly set. In leaves, such as
the one shown in the illus-
tration, tlie center is defined
by the meeting of the Ktitchc«,
which must be exactly even.
^ Satin stitch is simply an
_j over-and-over stitch, and
vjenerally both sides of the
,^ work look almost equally
: well.
DKSKJNS FOR FF.ATHP.R
STlTell.
These two designs are
very pretty for fastening the
edges of ribbons or strips
of contrasting fabric to posi-
tion, or for outlining bor-
ders, hemming flannels and
embellishing fancy work
generally. It is done by the
chain stitch movement, and
is verv simple.
CROS.S-STITCH.
This is the first to be learned in doing
canvas work. It is made hy a back-
stitch movement, with the needle always
pointing to the left, as will be observed in
the illustration, except sometimes in
CROSS-STiTCii. changing tlie direction of the design.
Of Java or ordinary canvas two threads each waj is the limit for the
stitch, one-half of which crosses diagonally from left to right and the
other half in just the opposite direction. Each stitch is completed
before the next is commenced, although in some instances a line of
half-stitches may be made from left to right and the other halves fin-
ished in the opposite direction. The result is the same, but the effect
is not so smooth, and conseauentl^- not so accurate.
PERSIAN CROSS-STITCH.
PERSIAN CROSS-STITCH.
It is suid that in the irregularity of this
stitch, and the Oriental colors selected
for it, consists its beauty when it covers a
design. By varying the length of the
stitch, almost any design may be copied.
The silk or worsted is carried across two
threads of the ground for the first half of the stitch, and is then
brought up between the two threads and the cross is made over the
upper half of the long stitch. The illustration will clearly explain
the method and eti'ect.
TENT STITCH.
Tliis is simply a short stitch made over
a single crossing of the can\us threads
and all slanting from right to left, four
tent stitches occupying the space of an
ordinary cross-stitch. It produces a very
TENT STITCH. fine grounding, and must be carefully
and evenly done. The movement is the same as in the tapestry stitch,
as will be seen by referring to the engraving, which illustrates " tent"
stitch perfectly.-.
It is in this siitih that the old hangings
unci pictures, now so valued from their
antiquity, were made. Although very
simple, only those having some knowl-
edge of the art of painting should at-
tempt anything in this stitch, as the shad-
ing must depend upon the eye and not
upon a counting of the stitches. Many
TAPESTRY STITCH. of the old designs were painted upon the
foundation canvas, which was of great assistance to the worker; and
we presume that some of the decorative art societies who are making
a revival of Gobelin tapestry a specialty, would be able to furnish the
same style of design. An artist in tapestry work can copy accurately
from an oil-painted picture, with only the eye directing the coloring
and shading. As we have before mentioned, four threads of canvas —
two each way — mark out the space of one ordinary cross-stitch, and
in this space two tapestry stitches are made. They are worked from
left to right, crossing four threads in height and one in width, with a
back-stitch movement, bringing the needle out toward the worker at
the bottom of the line upon which she is working. The picture illus-
trates clearly the etfect and the method of making tapestry stitch.
l^T^
TCTJ^iraQ]
I
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Bmrrwr
31fl5T^ *tJy
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STAR .STITCM.
There are four varieties of
this stitch, which is seldom
used to delineate a design, un-
less upon coarse net or rail-
STAR STITCH. road canvas, for which the or-
dinary cross-stitch is not heavy enough. The illustrations delineate it
very plainly, making it unnecessary to give a special description of it.
IRISH STITCH.
This is a " filling in" or " grounding" stitch,
and is made with alternate long and short back
stitches, the short stitches of one row commenc-
ing at the ends of the long ones on the row
above. It is generally done with zephvr, which
is not too thick, as every perpendicular thread
of the canvas is not over-worked — only the
IRISH STITCH. spaces between. The engraving will give you
the proper idea of the effect and the manner of working. The Ger-
man stitch is done in precisely the same way as the Irish, except that
the stitch crosses the canvas diagonally. By exercising a little judg-
ment and ingenuity, it will be seen that the worsted need only cover
the surface. In doing it the regular way, the under side, as well as
the upper, is covered with the zephyr, a method which many condemn.
HEM STITCHING.
HKM STITCHING.
For handkerchiefs, linen-lawn col-
lars and cuffs, the ends of neckties,
scarfs, etc., hem stitching is much
used. A. few threads are drawn out
of the article to be finished, where the 4
hem is to be felled; and the felling is
then done. After this, the ravelled or drawn space is separated into
little spaces by knotting a few of the threads together at regular inter-
vals with fine floss or cotton, and then the side next the felling is sep-
arated into extra spaces by dividing -with a sort of back-stitch taken
through the knot, each cluster being first knotted together. A close
inspection of the picture and a little ingenuity will enable one to easily
hem-stitch any article desired, better than any Avritten instructions
can direct.
i««llfl
/l;l I
W f'l M) Si I icir.
No. I. [am.na Stit(. II
Nor. 3 & 4. KvoT Stitchkj
Nos. 5, 6 & 7. Chain Stitches.
Border No. 9.
li)*ii^aiiiiMiiii,^;,jia,iillil,,l,i,;liil|||ijJli!l|;ll|ll,il||ij|llJij|i
No. 8. Embossed Bi.tton-Hole or Tongur Stitch.
Nos. 9, 10, Ti 51: T2. T"Inui)i:us. IX Ordinary HrTTrv TToTr Stitcit.
l!|li!l|['i|!!'fiit[ii!l'!i'"^
t-It'ijFlUrl
Nos. i;* ^^ 14. Orxamental Stitches for
Flannkl ok Canvas.
1
JiXQD
illliiJllllliiillllllliKiiiliiliililiillauiiJiiliiK
No. 17. Oi'EN-\^'oRK Embroidery.
No. I. Janina Stitch.
This stitch is worked wholly on the suriace. except where the short
back-stitch occurs along the outline, in making the stitches. A back-
stitch is taken at each side, inserting the point at the next to the last
thread and pushing it through to the outside again below the last
thread. An examination of the picture will make this clear to the read-
er, as the needle is set for one of the back-stitches described. The em-
broidery is suitable for toilet articles, small mats. -and stand or table
covers, and, in fact, for any purpose for which satin or any other sur-
face stitch is used. Silk floss or English crewel is usedin this em-
broidery.
No. 2. Wound Stitch.
This is a pretty stitch for embroidering grain, small leaves, or flow-
ers having small petals. The accompanying design shows the method
by which the cord is formed. After the needle is wound, the thumb of
the left hand is held firmly over it until the needle is pulled through
and the coil is firmly drawn in place. Two stitches only are necessary
to form each kernel. The tiny stitches seen at thr? ends of the kernels
may be lengthened to represent the barbs on real grain, if desired.
No. 3. Co\'ERKn Knot Stitch.
Knot stitches are mucli used iii enibroidcrint^ upon linen and cambric,
and are usually done in linen and Moravian tlosscs. The pmrravinj^ of
figure No. 3 represents one style of knot stitch made by takini; an ordi-
nary back stitch, winding? the floss twice about the needle and then
drawing the latter throuijh, with the left thumb held closely over the
coil. Ihe needle point is then thrust to the other side, almost exactly
where it came to the surface, so as to locate another knot. This stitch
itt frequently adopted in making initials, handkerchief corners, etc.
No. 4. Wound Knot Stitch.
This is made as follows : The needle is set, wound, and drawn through,
the same as in the first stitch, and is then thrust through the outride at
the place indicateil by tiie dot above the needle. This draws the wound
thread into the knot illustrated, which is just as pretty as its predecessor.
No. 5. Plain Ch.mn Stitch.
The engraving represents the old-fashioned, plain chain stitch, which
is still used for many purposes, such as fastening the edges of appiiqnt'
work, embroidering slippers, mats, stand-covers, etc. Each stitch is
made in the same way as the one for which the needle is set.
No. 6. Twisted Chain Stitch.
This stitch is made on the same principle as the plain stitch, except
that the needle, instead of being set back into the preceding stitch, is
set at the left side of it. It is used along edges as headings to fringe, and
sometimes to outline a design in Grecian or scroll work. Hems and
tucks in flannel skirts may be stitched in this way in preference to ma-
chine or plain hand sewing.
No. 7. Vine Chain Stitch.
This stitch is often used upon hems, as are both the other styles, and
sometimes above bindings of ribbon. It is often used to complete plain
blankets, flannel petticoats, little under-shirts, or any article for which
it seems a suitable flnish. The stitches are made to the right and left
alternately, and are longer and more open than the other varieties.
No. 8. Embossed Button-Hole or Tongue Stitch.
This style of stitch is much used in making borders on canvas or
other materials, when fringe is to be the completion for the edge, and
also in embroidering monograms and initials. Two rows of running
stitches are made wherever the border is to be located, and over these
the button-hole stitch is made.
Nos. 9, lo. II AND 12. Borders in Ordinary Button-Hole Stitch.
These four samples sliow as manv ditTercnt methods of settinj^ button-
hole stitehes alont^ the edi^e of flannel, canvas, linen, or whatever fabric
or article requires a border of this style. The elTects are produced hy
chaiiLjini^ the direction of the needle when making the stitches. In
doing fancy work, or bortlering any useful article that needs to be gay,
shaded silk will be very effective in the leaf style illustrated.
No. 13. IIerring-Bone Stitch.
This is a scitch used for joining the seams of flannel in a flat manner,
instead of by the usual wav. thus doing away with the ridge a fell
makes. Being ornamental as well as useful, it is also used for decora-
tive purposes, and is seen upon tidies, towels, and bands of applied rib-
bons or fabrics. While the work is done from left to right, the needle
is set in the usual way in a sort of back stitch.
No. 14. Stitch for Flannel, or for Ornamental Use on Canvas.
Although this stitch is illustrated upon canvas, where it is sometimes
used in a decorative manner, it is especially adapted to flannels which
require a neat finish and will not permit of an elaborate one. It can be
done in white silk floss or in colored worsteds, as preferred.
No. 15. Filling for Embroidered Scollops.
The method illustrated for "filling in "scollops before the embroi-
dery is done, is very successful in giving a rounded effect to the work
when finished. The outlines are run, and then an under-filling, form-
ed of chain stitching, is made in two rows between the outlining
stitches. After this, the usual button-hole stitch is emplojcd to cover
the filling and complete the embroidery.
No. 16. Stem-Stitch.
This engraving shows a style of stitch largely used in making over-
wrought vines. The design is first run with floss, and then the work
is done with a regular over-and-over stitch, which is clearly explained
by the engraving. It is suitable for either white or colored embroidery,
and is useful in vine patterns.
No. 17. Open-Work Embroidery.
This engraving is intended to illustrate the plan followed in making
open embroidery, etc., and the stitch employed. The design is first
marked or stamped, and then run with floss. Each leaf or petal is then
slashed with a sharp scissors, and the material drawn back to the run-
ing with an over-and-over stitch done with coarse linen floss.
SPECIAL WHOJ.1.SALE PKICE LIST
FANCY WORK MATERIALS
Any person receiving this Special Price List can order
goods at these wholesale prices. Cash must be sent with
THE Orders.
liest Silk Kensington Ariasene, per skein .... 3 cts., 12 skeins for 30 cts.
Wool Arrasen^ — v\\m^c, 'i shailes o^ redin each bunchy 20 cts. perbuncl:.
Briggs' Shaded Enibroidery Silk, 10-yd, skeins 3 cts.. 30 cts, per doz. skeins.
Briggs' Imported IHoss, t)-yd. skeins Sets., 30 cts. per doz. skeins.
Briggs' hnpfd limbroidery Silk, 10-yd. skeins, Sets., 30 cts. per doz. skeins.
Briggs' hnported Etching Silk, per skein . . 3 cts.. 30 cts. per doz. skeins.
Briggs' Knitting Silk, per ball 30 cts., 4 balls for $1.00
Briggs' Shade Cards, showing 300 shades and colors, 15ct^.
Florence Embnjidery Silk, per skein 1 ct., 10 cts. per doz. skeins
25 skeins any one shade, 17 cts.
Florence Embroidery Silk, 10-yd. spools, per spool 5 cts., 50 cts. per do?.
Florence Embroidery Floss, per skein . . . . 3 Cts.,35 cts.-pcr doz. skeins.
Florence Etching Silk, per spool 5 cts., 50 cts. per do?.
Florence Knitting Silk, per ball ."Jo cts.. 3 balls lor $1.<'0
Florence .*-^hade Cards 15 ct-.
Corticelli Purse Twist, *4 oz. spools, per spool 30 ct-.
Corticelli Wash Silk, (3i>-j(/. spools,) per spool . 6 cts., 12 spools for 60 cl> .
Order s/iadcs 'ivantcd froxt Florence Shade Cards.
Utopia Linen Floss, /7//t77/('/w, per skein . . . . 3 cts., 12 skeins for 35 cts.
Braidine, per skein 3 cts., 12 skeins for 30 cts.
(icrmantown Vani, all colors, per skein 17 cts.
Best .Saxony Yarn, per skein 17 cts.
Zephyr Worsted, Single. Doitble. or Split, all colors, . . . . 10 cts per lap.
(A lap is the same qiiantity,that used to be called an oimce.)
Single Zephyr, by the knot let, per knot.
7
r
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
Florence .S7/<7^ yard wide, per yard 35 cts.
iLLI 1 yard wkV, per yard , ORDERS TO
J. F. INCALLS, Lynn, Mass.
\
IMPORTED SILK PONGEE.