Class 
 
 Book. 
 
 GojjyrightN . 
 
 COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 
 
MV TRIP 
 
 TO EUROPE. 
 
 r.v 
 
 ANNA M. VOEGELIN. 
 
 CENTRAL PUBLISHING HOUSE, 
 
 1134—1138 PKAltL 8TKKKT, CLEVELAND, OHIO. 
 
6 
 
 LIBRARY ot CONGRESS 
 Two Copies Received 
 
 NOV 18 1905 
 
 . Copyright Entry 
 
 CLASS a XXc, No, 
 
 COPY B. 
 
 Copyrighted 1905. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 IT was my good fortune in the summer of 1903 to be in 
 position to take a trip to Europe. On my return 
 some of my friends asked me to draw up an account of 
 my travels, which I tried doing in the form of the following 
 little sketch. I have not even tried going into details 
 over every stopping place and have avoided as much as 
 possible stating dry facts, but have rather sifted my notes 
 and taken out what I thought would interest you most. 
 
 I am not fit to make this an educational study, but 
 have only made a somewhat clumsy attempt to give back 
 my own personal impressions, sometimes weaving in very 
 unimportant occurrences, which to me however, seemed 
 amusing, and I sincerely hope will appeal to you in the 
 same sense. 
 
 Let me just add that I travelled with a touring party 
 (Cook's) having a conductor whose duty it was to escort 
 us from place to place, attend to our baggage, pay all our 
 bills, even the tips given to waiters etc., and attend to our 
 general comfort. It was a decidedly convenient way to 
 travel and saved us much annoyance. At each city we 
 were also given a local guide who showed us the principal 
 
points of interest connected with the place and gave us 
 such information as we desired concerning it. 
 
 I need not assure you that I had a most interesting as 
 well as instructive trip, and desired, if even for myself, 
 to condense it into some form for future reference. I 
 had not the remotest idea, when I began my account to 
 put it into print, but was gradually encouraged to do so 
 by my friends and if I succeed, even in a small way to 
 arouse your interest I shall feel amply repaid. Perhaps 
 the fact, that this is not an imaginary happening, but an 
 actual occurrence, will add to its interest. As far as my 
 own personal experience goes every word is true, and the 
 remaining facts I give back as I received them. 
 
 Anna M. Voegelin. 
 Germantown, Philadelphia, March, 1905. 
 
CHAPTER I. 
 DEPARTURE AND ARRIVAL. ENGLAND. 
 
 n a beautiful evening in the early part of 
 June our trip to Europe began. Sitting 
 in one of the luxurious parlor cars of a 
 New York express, we at last enjoyed a few quiet 
 moments after the preceding days of bustle and ex- 
 citement. When the porter, after busying around, 
 even placed a velvet cushion under my feet I was 
 wishing that travel on the other side was as con- 
 venient, but I knew it was not. No place like 
 America for travelling. The sun took a last peek- 
 a-boo look at us from the distant hill tops when we 
 neared New York. Philadelphia is considered slow 
 in comparison with New York but one of the first 
 things we saw on arriving, was a horse-car plough- 
 ing along the street. 
 
 We at last reached the steamer which we were 
 allowed to board the night before and spend a 
 farewell hour on its deck, feeling the seriousness of 
 parting. Next morning early everyone was astir. 
 We had not been on deck very long, before we saw 
 the familiar form of the remaining member of our 
 
MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 family on shore, who waved to us. It seemed as 
 if there would be no end of people boarding the 
 ship. At last the gangways were put up and slowly 
 the gigantic ship began to move while hundreds of 
 people on shore shouted farewells and about as 
 many American flags were waved. Two schooners 
 accompanied us for some distance with the people 
 cheering and waving and now and then, boom ! went 
 a cannon. On shore a man who had climbed above 
 the crowd was still waving his hat and throwing 
 kisses to two passengers at the railing who were 
 trying hard to control their feelings. 
 
 The first day on the Ocean was lovely, in fact 
 the sea was calm and smooth throughout the week, 
 sometimes without even a ripple. It was nearly 
 noon when we had breakfast, but strange to say 
 not everyone was hungry. Quite a number were 
 up on the deck looking into the waves with a very 
 melancholy expression on their faces and sometimes 
 they would lean over the railing a little further and 
 — well, can you guess the rest? Others ate lemons 
 or drank something stronger than ice water to keep 
 their stomachs down. Walking must have been 
 considered good by some who hurried along at a 
 frantic pace, when suddenly they would swerve 
 around and quickly disappear in the door-way, 
 ashamed to let others know they were getting sick. 
 I did not feel a bit queer myself, but by evening all 
 
DEPARTURE AND ARRIVAL. ENGLAND. J 
 
 three ladies in my state-room were sick, and I had 
 my hands full ringing the bell and summoning aid. 
 
 The next day was Sunday. There was a 
 service in the morning, which consisted of the 
 speaker reading from some form of worship while 
 the audience responded, but it did not seem a bit 
 like Sunday until the evening, when some of us 
 started to sing hymns out on the deck. A steamer 
 passed in the early part of the evening and both 
 ships lowered their flags in greeting. 
 
 The third day on the water began with a drizz- 
 ling rain but this did not continue all day. It was 
 rather cold and we needed our steamer rugs and 
 furs for the first time on the voyage. We tried 
 walking to keep warm, but this is not so easily 
 accomplished as on land. One minute you seem 
 to be laboring up a hill, and the next you find your- 
 self suddenly running down one, and this with a 
 smooth sea. The only place it foamed was in the 
 back of the ship by the screw which lashed the 
 water into a beautiful pale blue spray. There were 
 still many sick, some to the end of the voyage. One 
 evening when I went in to supper I found myself 
 the only female representative at the table, while 
 out of eighteen only three gentlemen were present, 
 and the waiter smilingly remarked that I "still 
 looked as fine as silk". I continued to report pres- 
 
8 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 ent for the remainder of the trip, which came to an 
 end the following Saturday. 
 
 We sighted land on Friday and passed the 
 Kinsale Light-house. The sea-gulls began to make 
 their appearance and soon hundreds of them were 
 flying after our ship and looked very pretty against 
 the sky. After being between heaven and the water 
 for a number of days it is with a thrill of pleasure 
 that one watches the first signs of land appearing. 
 
 As we neared the Emerald Isle we could dis- 
 tinguish beautiful green fields on the slope. These 
 gave color to the water and formed a pretty con- 
 trast to the purplish hills beyond. In the after- 
 noon the passengers for Queenstown left in a tug, 
 after which the machinery again went at full speed. 
 
 Saturday morning all was bustle and excite- 
 ment. Everyone was anxious to get on land, es- 
 pecially the sea-sick passengers, who appeared in 
 full force and looking very happy. 
 
 At Liverpool the first thing to do was to make 
 for our baggage, which had to be examined. After 
 this was done I started out to look for the party I 
 was to join. At last I found a Cook's man who 
 piloted me around to where "Tour 26" was forming. 
 I was shown to the conductor, a tall broad should- 
 ered fellow, who looked as if he could take care of 
 a few more beside himself. 
 
DEPARTURE AND ARRIVAL. ENGLAND. 
 
 After he had "clucked" us all together he 
 started off and we followed in his footsteps. Our 
 baggage was being collected and here it was found 
 that my trunk and Aunt's by some mistake had 
 already been put on the first train and were steam- 
 ing off to the wrong station. This was annoying, 
 but we were told they would easily be found. We 
 still had time before our train left, so we started to 
 see a little of Liverpool, walking around in this, for 
 us a new world with strange people and strange 
 customs. 
 
 We left for London by special train. It was a 
 lovely ride past green hills and valleys where cows, 
 and many sheep were grazing. Once we passed 
 a most picturesque church on the side of a slope 
 and when I looked to the opposite side a little later, 
 I saw, guess what — a sign in the fields which read 
 "Heintz's Baked Beans With Tomato Sauce" and 
 further on "Heintz's 57 Varieties", "Quaker Oats" 
 and several other American looking signs. 
 
 On arriving at London the guide immediately 
 hailed a "cabby", gave him instructions, put me in 
 the hansom and sent me afloat in the great city of 
 London on a hunt for my trunk, which I found 
 without any difficulty at the Euston Station. He 
 in the mean time was taking his flock to the hotel, 
 where I arrived somewhat later, and rather tired. 
 I was directly shown to my room, with which I 
 
IO MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 was indeed pleased, it having the cosiest looking fire- 
 place, and every imaginable convenience. 
 
 After supper my Aunt and I again stepped 
 into a hansom for Liverpool St. Station, from 
 which place she was to start on her journey for 
 Schaffhausen, Switzerland. It was a little hard to 
 part, she travelling alone, and I left back with 
 strangers, but we tried to brave it as best we could. 
 
 At last the train pulled out and with a heavy 
 heart I turned to go back. I summoned a hansom 
 and after telling the driver "St. Ermines", drove 
 along the Thames through London now brilliant 
 with lights. I could not help enjoying my ride 
 despite my misgivings. These London hansoms 
 are a pleasant means of conveyance, rubber tired, 
 seats ever so comfortable, and with nothing to ob- 
 struct the view, the driver being in back of the 
 vehicle. 
 
 After arriving at the hotel I went straight to 
 rest notwithstanding the fact that the orchestra 
 downstairs was rendering some delightful music. 
 
 The bells were pealing for church next morn- 
 ing when I awoke, but I must confess I did not get 
 to any service. When I walked out on the piazza 
 after breakfast the guide met me, and said, that 
 although there was no programme for the day and 
 he was free, he had just suggested taking a few of 
 
DEPARTURE AND ARRIVAL. ENGLAND. II 
 
 the party for a walk to Hyde Park and if I cared 
 to go along to get ready. 
 
 I had really wanted to go to church and when 
 I mentioned it, one of the gentlemen said "I am 
 afraid we have left church in the United States, 
 for although I am a church member and go regu- 
 larly when at home, my chief aim now is to see all 
 I can of the place I am in, especially as the time 
 in each stay is so short". And so it was, although 
 I went through numerous churches and cathedrals, 
 I attended few services. 
 
 We started for the Park passing the Bucking- 
 ham Palace, the Duke of Wellington's House, and 
 crossed the famous Piccadilly Street on our way. 
 
 Hyde Park was beautiful with flowers, and 
 alive with people, some were of London's most 
 fashionable set. We were shown the Rotten Row 
 which begins at Hyde Park Corner and where the 
 Royalty go horse-back riding. After an enjoyable 
 walk we strolled homeward, keeping a watchful 
 eye on the guide ahead. If he swerved to the 
 right, or left, we immediately did the same, and if 
 he preferred walking in the street, we unconscious- 
 ly followed suit. After we left London we saw 
 much of this walking in the street, but it was not 
 surprising, for in some places the pavements were 
 so narrow that a person with unusually broad feet 
 
12 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 could not very comfortably place one beside the 
 other. 
 
 On the evening of this day I attempted a little 
 walk by myself taking good care to note the corners 
 I turned, and passed in full view of Westminster 
 Abbey, arriving at the hotel unmolested. I had 
 already lost some of the fear I had of this great 
 place, for every one seemed very courteous and 
 the policemen gave information cheertully on all 
 points. I was amused at the hats these guards 
 of the peace wore, which had a strap coming under 
 their mouth and made me wonder how they could 
 yawn without displacing their head gear. 
 
 We were told to be ready next morning at 
 nine o'clock for the day's programme. At the 
 appointed hour we drove off with an English guide 
 who knew London as his pocket, but he was a very 
 decided old gentleman, and if any were talking 
 while he explained he would stop short and only 
 continue when all were listening. 
 
 Some of the places we saw that day were 
 Newgate Prison where William Penn and others 
 were confined, the historical Bow Church, St. Paul's 
 Cathedral which has a whispering gallery. If one 
 whispers in that gallery a loud voice is heard op- 
 posite. 
 
 Some of the streets have odd names, such as 
 
DEPARTURE AND ARRIVAL. ENGLAND. 1 3 
 
 Threadneedle St., Bird Cage Walk, Cheapside 
 which is a very busy street, and from which runs 
 Bread St., where Milton was born, and Milk St., 
 where Sir Thomas Moore was born. Pall Mall 
 is a splendid street, which our guide as an English- 
 man called something like "Pell Mell". 
 
 We passed along the Victoria Embankment, 
 and over London Bridge which by the way, is not 
 "falling down," although the traffic is so heavy 
 that they are building a new bridge to relieve this 
 one. We also passed over the beautiful Tower 
 Bridge to the Tower, which is historically the most 
 interesting spot in England. It is really a series of 
 towers, weird looking structures and was the scene 
 of many a gruesome incident. 
 
 Before entering we had to check all parcels, 
 umbrellas, even to the purse bags we carried in our 
 hands, which the man declared were safest with 
 him. I do not know whether they were afraid of 
 Anarchists, or whether this was done to prevent 
 people from robbing each other, for we passed up 
 more than one dark, dismal stairway where we 
 could not see who was before or after us and had 
 to grope along with a rope in our hands to guide 
 us. 
 
 In the recess of a dark stone steps was shown 
 to us the very spot where the children of Edward 
 
14 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 VI. were found dead. They had been strangled 
 by their own uncle, and their lifeless bodies thrown 
 down from the top of the stairs. This was called 
 the Bloody Tower. Near the Brick Tower is a 
 stone which marks the place where Lady Jane Grey 
 was executed. The White Tower has turreted 
 walls twelve feet thick. I remember standing in 
 one of the cells near a little window with the day- 
 light twelve feet away from me and only dimly 
 lighting the compartment. 
 
 In the Queen Elizabeth Armory the walls and 
 ceiling are decorated with the weapons of that age, 
 and arranged beautifully in figures and flowers. 
 One that especially impressed me was an exquisitely 
 shaped sun flower made from swords, the blades 
 forming the petals. 
 
 In the Jewel House were the jewels valued at 
 15,000,000. Among these were the crowns, and a 
 wonderful saphire and ruby, the royal sceptre, etc. 
 
 We also visited the National gallery where 
 some of the most famous pictures in the world are 
 exhibited. Among countless other things, we 
 viewed the famous Portland Vase, which was taken 
 from Rome. One day a madman came in and 
 shattered this vase to pieces, but it has been put to- 
 gether again so skilfully that no one would think 
 
DEPARTURE AND ARRIVAL.— ENGLAND. 1 5 
 
 it had ever been broken. The English are proud of 
 this and would not part with the vase. 
 
 The Parliament buildings are beautiful and so 
 is the Abbey, despite the fact that everything has 
 a sooty appearance, but which only seems to add to 
 its dignity. The frequent heavy fogs, which are 
 the cause of this are something we entirely missed. 
 We had been in London almost a week and never 
 witnessed a fog, for although cool at first, we had 
 fine clear weather every day. 
 
 The Abbey, world renowned as England's Tem- 
 ple of Fame, is crowded with monuments of kings, 
 heroes and scholars. The Poets' corner contains 
 many inscriptions. Longfellow seems to be a fav- 
 orite, as his bust was always decorated with flowers. 
 
 Lady Nightingale's monument is really to her 
 husband, and is the last work of a noted sculptor. 
 It consists of the skeleton figure of death, who has 
 burst open the door of the sepulcher and is aiming 
 his dart at Lady Nightingale, while she shrinks 
 back into the arms of her horror-stricken husband, 
 who is vainly trying to defend her. It looks 
 strangely real, and it is said that a robber coming 
 into the Abbey by moonlight was so startled by the 
 figure of death as to have fled in dismay, leaving 
 his crowbar on the pavement. 
 
 We also viewed the Coronation Chair which is 
 
1 6 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 quite old looking, but is covered with a cloth of 
 gold at coronations. In it is enclosed the famous 
 Prophetic Stone. The legend of the stone relates 
 that it was the pillow on which Jacob slept at 
 Bethel, but I cannot vouch for the truth of this 
 statement. One visit to the Abbey is not satis- 
 factory. I went several times, also attending a 
 service. The choir consisted of young boys gowned 
 in white robes, and when their wonderfully sweet 
 voices re-echoed through the Abbey and blended 
 with the magnificent organ above, even the marble 
 statues around would seem to watch and listen. 
 
 We had been provided on two days with a 
 local guide, and on the second afternoon wound up 
 our sight-seeing with a visit to Lincoln's Inn and 
 the Old Curiosity Shop immortalized by Dickens. 
 We all alighted and crowded into the little place 
 which was hardly large enough to hold the twenty, 
 of which our party consisted, and the gentlemen 
 kept stepping on the ladies' trains and we walked 
 over each others toes in our endeavors to look at 
 the display of little trinkets and souvenirs of all 
 kinds. At last our guide beckoned and the tangled 
 snarl of Cook's party began to unwind and thread 
 its way out of the door. 
 
 This ended our regular programme and we 
 were left to use the rest of our time as we pleased, 
 
DEPARTURE AND ARRIVAL. ENGLAND. 1 7 
 
 but by this time we had been given a fair insight 
 and began to look about for ourselves. 
 
 We took regretful leave of the nice old man 
 who had been our guide around London and whom 
 I met unexpectedly almost three months later at the 
 end of my journey. 
 
 On the evening of this day some half dozen of 
 us went to Whitechapel, which is the slum district 
 of London, and reputed to be a favorite haunt for 
 thieves and murderers, but we did not find it as bad 
 as we expected. 
 
 One of the ladies of our party was interested in 
 Charity work, and asked me to go along, and we 
 were not afraid, as the rest of our number consisted 
 of gentlemen protectors. It may be that we did 
 not probe deep enough, or that Whitechapel is liv- 
 ing on past reputation. At any rate we encount- 
 ered nothing unusual and in the dark street into 
 which we did go, we saw peaceful looking houses, 
 some of them cheerfully lighted. I was quite satis- 
 fied not to have seen the worst of this place, and we 
 soon wended our steps toward the main street. 
 
 I had enjoyed the ride out very much on the 
 top of the bus. These busses are the main trans- 
 port of London besides railway, elevated and under- 
 ground. They are two-story affairs, the roof is 
 preferable, for you can view London from a high 
 
MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 standpoint and out of all the bustling crowd. They 
 are just crammed with advertisements inside and 
 out, and when you try to look for the sign-board 
 you find yourself reading "Sapolio", "Nestles Food", 
 'Tears Soap", etc., until at last way down almost 
 out of sight you find what you are looking for in 
 small letters. 
 
 They have very short stops and the girls think- 
 nothing of jumping on while the bus is goins:. I 
 learned to do it myself, and to climb the narrow 
 winding steps to the top of the swaying vehicle 
 without much trouble. 
 
 That night when we went home we were 
 obliged to take the inside of the bus as the top was 
 full. A rather wicked looking man stepped in 
 with us and I could not help watching him, as he 
 seemed to have something in his hand which he kept 
 out of sight. I had visions of revolvers and stilet- 
 toes in my mind and when he alighted — I saw him 
 put a cigar to his lips. 
 
 Next morning almost everybody went out 
 shopping. In the afternoon five of our party went 
 to the South Kensington Museum. We went by 
 underground railway and were laughing and talk- 
 ing when it dawned on us where to get off, after the 
 train had already halted some time. A stranger 
 overhearing us said "This is the Station". All 
 
DEPARTURE AND ARRIVAL. ENGLA ND. 1 9 
 
 sprang up and one of the gentlemen rushed for the 
 door, but it would not give way and we pushed 
 after. He then frantically waved his unbrella at a 
 conductor outside and when the door opened five 
 flew out almost at once, the first man with a leap 
 that sent his coat-tails flying, and scarcely had my 
 heels left the stepping board when the train moved 
 on. The whole affair had been so ludicrous, that 
 we all sat down on a bench and gave vent to our 
 mirth. 
 
 We found the Museum without further diffi- 
 culties and saw more beautiful paintings, statues, 
 wood-carving, fine laces, china, etc. We went 
 home by bus and stopped off for a stroll in Hyde 
 Park, which was crowded with people in carriages 
 and on foot. 
 
 We inquired for the cause of such great crowds 
 and were told that the people were watching for the 
 Queen, who was probably out driving. We con- 
 cluded to wait also, and after some time the guard 
 told us where to stand, when the carriage was al- 
 ready sighted in the distance. 
 
 We were agreeably surprised to see the King 
 as well as the Queen, and the Duchess of Teck. 
 We had a near and good view of them and went 
 home feeling rather proud of our afternoon's ex- 
 perience. 
 
20 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 At the table we excited the envy of the rest 
 by the news, and the following day they went there 
 also, but with unsatisfactory results. 
 
 On the evening of this day we went to see 
 Madam Tussand's wax figures, which were very 
 interesting and stood around in life-like attitudes, 
 We saw representations of McKinley, Roosevelt, 
 Queen Victoria, King Edward, and many others. 
 
 There were two young women in white aprons 
 and caps sitting at tables selling catalogues; one 
 was alive, the other a wax figure. A gentleman 
 from our party walked up to the wax figure and 
 demanded a catalogue. She did not stir, and look- 
 ing around we saw our conductor who had come 
 with us laughing and soon we all knew the joke. 
 
 A little later one of the wax figures in uniform 
 attracted my attention. I placed myself in front of 
 it exclaiming "This fellow is especially good and 
 lifelike." The others stepped nearer and all gave 
 their opinion, one man saying jokingly to the figure, 
 "How would you like to speak to us." When we 
 turned to go I could not help glancing back — but 
 what was my surprise to see the figure move, and 
 smile a very satisfied smile at me. I called in sur- 
 prise, which immediately brought back the others, 
 and we could not but congratulate the man on his 
 good acting. He proved to be very accommodating 
 and went along with us explaining all the figures. 
 
DEPARTURE AND ARRIVAL. — ENGLAND. 21 
 
 Going home we took the underground railway, 
 and were not going to be as slow as in the after- 
 noon, almost tumbling into the train in our hurry, 
 when the conductor came along and said "wrong 
 train, must get out". At last we were seated in the 
 right one, but only went a short distance when some 
 thought it time to alight. We of the afternoon 
 party had become cautious, or perhaps nervous from 
 our experience, and when we were preparing to 
 get out, our guide rushed at us from another com- 
 partment, saying, "Back in, four stations more", 
 at which we dropped back laughing. 
 
 The next day was an ideal one. We were to 
 leave London for Antwerp, but not until night, and 
 we spent the day in various ways. We left about 
 half past eight P. M., arriving at Harwich at ten 
 o'clock, from whence we were to cross the English 
 Channel. 
 
 As there are sometimes great crowds we were 
 a little uneasy as to our accommodations, but fortun- 
 ately there was no rush that day, and instead of 
 sharing a stateroom with several others as I had 
 anticipated, I had one room-mate of my own choice. 
 
 The night was lovely and my companion per- 
 suaded me to accompany her on deck for a while. 
 There was a rumor that our trunks had not arrived 
 in time to go on board, so we immediately went to 
 
22 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 the guide, who was already surrounded, and being- 
 plied with questions, "Mr. F. is my trunk here" 
 was being asked for about the twentieth time. At 
 last he raised his arm and pointed toward the fore- 
 part of the boat, saying, "You will find all your 
 trunks over there." 
 
 We immediately formed in line and all went 
 over, leaving him behind laughing. No won- 
 der, for when we reached the place everything was 
 covered with heavy canvas, and nothing remained 
 but to hope that our trunks were under its covering. 
 It was getting late, however, and we went down to 
 rest. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 BELGIUM, HOLLAND, AND GERMANY. 
 
 I he next morning most of us wore on deck 
 early. The sun had arisen and was shining 
 over a sheet of water almost without a 
 ripple. The air was fresh and exhilarating and we 
 thoroughly enjoyed strolling around the ship. Grad- 
 ually the land on either side became more and more 
 distinct, looking very green and pretty, and when we 
 arrived at the mouth of the Scheldt River there 
 were numberless ships ahead of us. 
 
 After our baggage was examined we landed 
 and proceeded to the hotel. On our way we passed 
 the flower market, which was in a square opposite 
 the Cathedral. It just happened to be flower-day 
 and the market was crowded with blossoms of every 
 color and description and the bells of the Cathedral 
 were ringing in honor of the celebration. 
 
 We visited the Museum which is the best in 
 Belgium; and also the cathedral previously men- 
 tioned, which is very large and has some rare 
 windows. The organ is the fifth largest in the 
 world. 
 
24 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 We left by the three o'clock train for Brussels, 
 which is one hour distant, and again saw celebrated 
 masterpieces in the Cathedral there. 
 
 Brussels is an interesting place, clean and full 
 of life. Until late at night bands and parades 
 would pass the hotel playing military airs, and it 
 seemed as if the people never went to sleep. 
 
 While there, we visited the Town Hall and the 
 Palace of Justice. The lawyers walked around in 
 long gowns, with white tipped scarfs. In this 
 building were also beautiful tapestries, and from 
 one of the balconies which commanded a view of 
 Brussels and the surrounding country, we feasted 
 our eyes on the pretty scene. 
 
 After stopping at the cathedral we went on to 
 Wiertz's Museum, in which we saw many noted 
 paintings. When we alighted from our carriages 
 a delicious odor of pine trees greeted us from the 
 pretty garden on one side of the building. 
 
 From here we drove to the factory where 
 Brussels lace is made. We saw the girls at work 
 and the meshes of exquisite net forming under their 
 skillful fingers. 
 
 The rest of the afternoon was spent driving in 
 the most beautiful park of that delightful city, and 
 to me this was the finest treat so far. 
 
 The weather was perfect, and there was such 
 
BELGIUM, HO LLAND AND GERMANY. 2j> 
 
 a variety of beautiful trees, with the silvery sheen 
 of a lake glistening between them, and visions of 
 boats with their rowers now and then appearing. 
 When we came to an open place of green another 
 pretty sight met our eyes. About a hundred white 
 sheep were grazing, the shepherd to one side leaning 
 on his staff, while the shepherd's dog made his 
 rounds about the group in a business like manner, 
 which formed a strikingly pretty picture. 
 
 At a romantic place in the park was shown to 
 us the spot where Princess Chimay met her Gypsy 
 lover. There is a restaurant near and we sat down 
 among the trees to have some refreshments and to 
 listen to the band which played on the same pavilion 
 from which a dark eyed gypsy charmed a princess 
 with the strains of his violin. From this place we 
 had a delightful drive home. 
 
 The stores or shops as they say here, are open 
 Sunday mornings, and I am afraid if the matter of 
 shopping on Sunday were investigated, many 
 Americans would be found guilty. 
 
 In America dogs are kept as pets, here they 
 are seen harnessed to small milk carts, the women 
 peddling the milk. 
 
 Women also carry the "News"; (they are fond 
 of this it is said), and can frequently be heard at 
 the street corners, calling in a loud voice the names 
 of their various papers. 
 
26 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 Monday morning we started for the Hague, 
 passing through lowlands picturesquely dotted with 
 cattle and wind-mills, and after crossing the Zuyder 
 Zee we began to look for our stopping place. This 
 is a quaint but charming city. Some of the women 
 wear an odd head dress, which must be anything 
 but comfortable. It consists generally of metal 
 plates, sometimes gold, worn over the back of the 
 head and covered with lace caps, and an ornament 
 in front of the ears which projects forward. We 
 could not help but watch these wooden shoed in- 
 habitants, and they in turn stared at us in wonder. 
 
 We arrived at the Hotel a half hour before 
 dinner and were shown to our rooms. I was de- 
 lighted with mine, which was a typical Dutch room, 
 red prevailing, and its windows faced the Park or 
 Woods opposite, where deer were grazing on the 
 green, and streams trailed among the lovely trees. 
 
 We visited the Museum here, and among other 
 paintings saw Paul Potter's famous Bull, and Rem- 
 brandt's School of Anatomy, which gave us the 
 shivers, for it keeps one in constant mind of the 
 operating table. 
 
 Queen Wilhelmina's palace was also visited, 
 and was well worth it, although when we first 
 stepped into the hall downstairs we thought it rather 
 bleak looking, but soon changed our minds when 
 we stepped into her apartments. We were told that 
 
BELGIUM, HOLLAND AND GERMANY. 27 
 
 it had not been built for a palace, but had originally 
 been used as a state house, and then we understood 
 why the hall did not look palatial. 
 
 We lived in extremes on this day, for, from the 
 palace we went to what had once been a Spanish 
 prison, where in dark weird cells terrible instru- 
 ments of torture had been used in days gone by. 
 In one of the cells, called "John the Beggar's", who 
 was a priest, we viewd by a faint flickering light, 
 figures he had traced on the walls with his own 
 life's blood. In another cell was shown to us a 
 rack, on which a woman had been tortured, and here 
 we again shuddering viewed the opposite wall, 
 where her tormentors had marked the event with 
 bloody ink. In the starving chamber, the prisoners 
 could see from their window, the kitchen opposite, 
 where savory things were cooked, the odors of 
 which came up to them, dying of hunger. 
 
 When we emerged from those dungeons into 
 the cheerful daylight once more, we felt thankful 
 that we were living in a more civilized age, which 
 has discarded such terrors. 
 
 From here we took a trip to Scheveningen — 
 Yes — I know it is a "jaw breaker". This is a 
 fashionable Dutch sea-shore resort, where the 
 Queen herself stays at times. 
 
 Down on the beach the sand was thickly cov- 
 ered with chairs, which looked like so many huge 
 
28 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 sunbonnets. It is a pretty place and full of life. 
 We met some women with wooden yokes upon their 
 shoulders, from which dangled baskets of delicious 
 fruit, for which they charged enormous prices to us 
 "Americanas". 
 
 After listening to the music we strolled toward 
 the meeting place, and two of us sat on some chairs 
 along the board-walk. Presently a shabby old fel- 
 low came up and demanded money which we re- 
 fused to give, thinking him a beggar, But we soon 
 understood we were to pay for the seats which had 
 been used about a minute. We again refused, upon 
 which he became very ugly so that some of our 
 party standing near were attracted by his excited 
 manner and came toward us. One young man was 
 about to punish the fellow with a heavy cane which 
 he carried, when the others interfered. I told the 
 man I would see our guide about it before paying 
 but when his tall form appeared in the distance, our 
 would-be collector suddenly disappeared and troub- 
 led us no more, and we returned to the Hague with- 
 out further trouble. 
 
 Next morning we started for Amsterdam, 
 which is called the Venice of the North, as it is 
 intersected by numerous canals. Most every street 
 is a water-way, although there is room for horses 
 and people on the side. 
 
 Again we went through a museum, and an- 
 
BELGIUM, HOLLAND AND GERMANY. 29 
 
 other of the Queen's palaces, which was very pretty 
 and in which we saw her throne. 
 
 The Zoo was also visited and I remember best 
 the Avenue where many poll-parrots were caged 
 on either side under the trees, and which made ear- 
 splitting noises. 
 
 We also saw how diamonds are cut and were 
 shown through the different phases of this work, 
 which is very tedious. 
 
 We left Amsterdam in the morning, arriving at 
 Cologne at three. We only stayed at the hotel 
 long enough to see our rooms and our baggage, 
 and away we all started for the Cathedral, which 
 is a grand Gothic building with interesting interior, 
 but I am afraid I did not hear all the details of our 
 interpreter's explanation, for my thoughts had wan- 
 dered and I was dreaming of that pretty little rom- 
 ance, "The First Violin", by Jesse Fothergill, and 
 which began, so to speak, in this wonderful "Dom" 
 under the strains of the Messiah. 
 
 This church was begun in the twelfth century, 
 but it took many years to complete it, as the work 
 was not continuous, and at one time the French 
 troops used it for a hay magazine. There are some 
 ancient stained windows here, as well as modern 
 frescoes, and seven wonderful chapels. I was told 
 it took twelve men with clasped hands to span one 
 of the vast columns inside this Cathedral. 
 
30 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 The Church of St. Ursula was next visited in 
 which is the tomb of that unhappy princess, who 
 with her 11,000 virgin companions was massacred 
 at Cologne, on her return from Rome, and whose 
 bones can be seen encased in the walls of the church. 
 Everywhere we looked skulls grinned at us, and it 
 seemed as though the inner walls of the church 
 consisted of human remains. 
 
 The evening of this day was spent in the usual 
 way when there was no special arrangement, name- 
 ly, in trying to see as much of the town and shops 
 as we could, and if our footsteps could have been 
 traced they would have formed a series of festoons, 
 for, when leaving the hotel, we would begin with 
 the first shop window, viewing its contents and ex- 
 changing our opinions, then in a little semi-circle 
 proceed to the next, and so on, conscientiously care- 
 ful not to miss a shop, stopping occasionally to treat 
 the inner side of a store likewise. If the proprie- 
 tor spoke our language we usually secured what we 
 wanted, but if not, we resorted to gesticulations, 
 which habit we soon learned from the natives, es- 
 pecially in Italy, and after going through a series 
 of gymnastics we sometimes managed to throw 
 light on the subject, often to the amusement of all 
 parties concerned. 
 
 Next morning we left Cologne but not until 
 
BELGIUM, HOLLAND AND GERMANY. 31 
 
 most of us had secured at least one sample of the 
 celebrated Farina Eau de Cologne. 
 
 We left by steamer to go up the Rhine as far 
 as Biebrich. The day was perfect. Indeed we 
 could not have wished for lovlier weather. The 
 Rhine abounds in legends, and to one who is ac- 
 quainted with them all, it adds to the romance of the 
 place, but the scenery alone is never to be forgotten. 
 
 In some places the banks were high and rocky, 
 in others they formed in vine clad slopes, but every- 
 where could be seen picturesque castles, both mod- 
 ern and in ruins, celebrated in history, legend and 
 song. 
 
 A few of the places we passed were the Drach- 
 enfels, which is very high ; the ruined castle of 
 Rolandseck ; the Island of Nonnenwerth, where 
 stands an old convent in which the beautiful Hilde- 
 gard is said to have taken the veil when she heard 
 that Roland had perished. 
 
 Ehrenbreitstein is a vast fortress which at one 
 time was supplied with food, clothing, etc. for 
 10,000 men for a space of five years, which was a 
 great undertaking considering the height of the 
 rock. 
 
 Stolzenfels Castle belongs to the Emperor of 
 Germany, and commands a magnificent view. Marx- 
 burg is another imposing castle and dates back to 
 1400, but is still uninjured and inhabited. 
 
32 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 We also passed the Blucher Statue, which 
 marks the place where he crossed the Rhine. 
 
 What interested me most, however, and what 
 I had been watching for with great pleasure was the 
 Lorely Rock, the legend of which I had learned in 
 my early childhood. It is a very high precipice 
 rising over whirlpools in the deepest and narrow- 
 est part of the Rhine, and the fabled seat of the 
 beautiful Lorely, who with her enchanting songs, 
 lures sailors on to death. It is a beautiful but 
 dangerous part of the Rhine and our ship was 
 obliged to have two pilots and slow her pace to pass 
 through this place with double caution. This 
 seemed to make the legend of the Lorely quite real 
 and we almost imagined we could hear her singing. 
 
 Farther up we passed the Mouse Tower, where, 
 according to legend, a cruel Bishop was devoured 
 alive by mice after he had caused a number of fam- 
 ine stricken peasants to be burned to death. 
 
 Not very far from here is Bingen nestling amid 
 charming scenery and makes one think of that lit- 
 tle song "Bingen on the Rhine". 
 
 We saw all these places in their fullest beauty, 
 because of the perfect weather and everyone seemed 
 to feel in good spirits, (perhaps some of the cele- 
 brated Rhine wine which flowed at the table helped 
 to induce this,) at any rate the bluest of blues took 
 wings in this day. 
 
BELGIUM, HOLLAND AND GERMANY. 33 
 
 We landed at Biebrich at nine in the evening 
 and proceeded by railway to Wiesbaden where we 
 stopped for the night, but not before we had taken 
 a walk around the town, knowing we would leave 
 early in the morning. 
 
 We started for Berlin next day travelling most 
 of the time past beautiful scenery and arrived in 
 the evening at five o'clock. The day had been warm 
 and the soot and dust came in through the open 
 windows that by night we all looked like a band of 
 miners, especially the men who had been in the 
 smoker all day, and whom we greeted with shouts 
 of laughter. 
 
 Berlin is often called the city of palaces and 
 indeed it is rightly named. Not only are the palac- 
 es beautiful which line the magnificent avenue 
 "Unter den Linden", but the buildings in general 
 abound in artistic work and statuary. Almost 
 everywhere beautiful groups, monuments and col- 
 umns greet the eye, indeed in my opinion Berlin is 
 far more attractive than Paris. 
 
 Our hotel was not far from the "Branden- 
 burger Thor", which is beautiful, crowned by a 
 fine statue of Victory with horses. 
 
 The Emperor's Palace was first visited, which 
 is an enormous structure, containing six hundred 
 rooms, but we were only shown a few of them. 
 What we saw, however, was magnificent. We 
 
 3 
 
34 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 went through the Ballroom, the chandeliers of which 
 attracted my attention, and in one room was a sort 
 of dome in the ceiling and our guide called for at- 
 tention as he stationed himself in a certain place 
 under the dome, telling us to listen. He called, 
 "Ho" and immediately an echo above responded and 
 repeated itself thirty-three times, until we uncon- 
 sciously all raised our heads in wonder. Several 
 times he awakened that wonderful echo, and we 
 tried doing the same, but failed until he led us to 
 the spot where he was standing. Naturally every- 
 one would like to have tried it, but time forbid, and 
 we regretfully left this interesting spot. 
 
 The Picture Gallery contained some rare paint- 
 ings and the Royal Chapel was splendidly frescoed. 
 
 We next entered the White Saloon, which is 
 an apartment entirely furnished in marble, at an 
 enormous cost. At the doorway was a box filled 
 to the top with large felt slippers, the German kind, 
 with just the sole and forepart minus the heel. Into 
 these we were asked to step and slide along to pre- 
 vent our shoes from injuring the costly floor. T 
 went to the man and asked for a small size and he 
 handed me a pair which looked about a foot and .a 
 half long. At first we tried to walk in them but 
 stepped right out and found that by sliding we 
 could keep them under our feet. What fun we had 
 in this room. I stepped in back of them all to get 
 
BELGIUM, HOLLAND AND GERMANY. 35 
 
 the full benefit of the scene. To see our whole 
 party silently sliding along, each with a pair of canal 
 boats for a foundation, and trying to see all there 
 was, and to keep their feet properly shod, was in- 
 deed an amusing sight. One of the gentlemen be- 
 came absorbed looking at an object and in thought 
 stepped out of his slippers, when a few called out, 
 and with a frantic jump he returned to them. This 
 happened to several and one other, a very studious 
 man, lost one and went sliding along on the one 
 foot and walking with the other, until we awoke 
 his attention to the fact, when he quickly secured the 
 other. This was on the memorial Fourth-of-July, 
 which we celebrated as best we could, of course 
 not with fireworks. Our carriages were adorned 
 with a German flag on one side and an American on 
 the other, and as we rode through Berlin quite a 
 number of people, who must have been Americans, 
 catching sight of the Stars and Stripes, stopped and 
 waved to us, or raised their hats and hailed us upon 
 which we responded in due form. 
 
 In the evening the hotel people had prepared 
 a pretty surprise for us. Our table was decorated 
 with American flags and red, white and blue flowers 
 and every lady was presented with a beautiful bunch 
 of roses and maiden hair fern. When, at the end 
 of the meal some one went to the piano and played 
 Yankee Doodle, every one sprang up, handkerchiefs 
 
36 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 were waved amid cheers and hurrahs, and we all 
 standing joined in singing My Country, Tis of Thee. 
 The others looked on in amusement, and the Ameri- 
 can guests came and greeted us like old friends. 
 
 There was no official programme for the next 
 day, but a few of us had arranged to go out to Pots- 
 dam to see the Palace and Gardens of Sanssouci and 
 at the appointed hour our Berlin guide called for us 
 at the hotel. He was an original, with a face on 
 which good nature and cunning kept playing hide- 
 and-seek, large round blue eyes and red cheeks, 
 His short figure was adorned with a long swallow- 
 tail coat and the band around his hat was a very 
 bright red, while a tie of the same color encircled 
 his neck. This, together with some of his English 
 which to call funny would be putting it mild, helped 
 us to enjoy his jokes all the more. Hardly had we 
 been seated in a coupe of the train when a conductor 
 came and in a gruff voice told the men to depart, as 
 the place was exclusively for ladies. We told the 
 conductor that we did not at all object to the gentle- 
 men, and they in turn declared to stay by us, but 
 our guide whispered "shust vait a leedle", and going 
 out we all followed. The next ladies' coupe was 
 also empty and after waiting some time our guide 
 suddenly beckoned to us, telling us to hurry into 
 coupe and just as he followed after and slammed 
 the door the train set in motion. He said he knew 
 
BELGIUM, HOLLAN D AND GERMANY. 37 
 
 the conductor would not be around until Potsdam, 
 where we were to get out and so all was right, and 
 we had the coupe to ourselves. We enjoyed his 
 little trick and the men threw up their hats and we 
 all gave three cheers for Charlie, as he called him- 
 self, and so it was all day, everywhere we had our 
 way, or rather Charlie, who seemed to be an all 
 around favorite and could work wonders with his 
 hand shake and a few whispered words. 
 
 We were told there would be crowds out there 
 but he was able to get us in ahead of them all 
 through the keeper, who was his friend, and it was 
 so arranged that when we were going through a 
 room the party outside had to wait until we had 
 gone to the next. We thoroughly enjoyed sight- 
 seeing on that day. 
 
 First we went through the Town Palace, which 
 contains many relics of Frederick the Great. One 
 of the many was his working desk, which showed 
 signs of using, as well as the sofa in back, from 
 which he could, by glancing into a large mirror at 
 the side, see what was going on in the street. The 
 celebrated Petition Elm is opposite this room and 
 when any felt themselves wronged and could not 
 obtain the desired redress, a last resort was, to take 
 the petition to the tree, holding it high in the air and 
 Frederick seeing it, would look to the case himself. 
 If the request was just he received satisfaction, but 
 
38 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 if on the other hand a flaw was discovered, — woe to 
 the complainant. 
 
 In a room in this palace we saw the bed where 
 Napoleon slept, and also the room where Queen 
 Wilhelmina slumbered when on a visit. 
 
 Queen Louise's rooms were very interesting" 
 and contained work done by her, which was ex- 
 quisite. The bed was also shown to us where this 
 noble woman breathed her last. It is impossible to 
 explain the details of Sanssouci, and I am only not- 
 ing a few things. 
 
 The Crown Prince's Palace is also out there 
 and as we passed we saw the flag waving from the 
 top announcing his presence in the Palace. 
 
 Our next visit was to the Garrison Church and 
 although it was late we stole in and sat on the 
 last bench hearing a little of the service. After 
 church we stationed ourselves at the side-door, from 
 which the soldiers made their exit, and formed into 
 regiments before leaving the place. This was inter- 
 esting to witness and many a fine specimen of man- 
 hood was among them. 
 
 At the Mausoleum we saw the tomb of Fred- 
 erick and his father, but its interior is not as im- 
 pressive as at Charlottenburg which is much larger, 
 and where a soft purplish light falls down on the 
 marble figures beneath, making them look strangely 
 real. One is only allowed to speak in a whisper 
 
BELGIUM, HOLLAND AND GERMANY. 39 
 
 in this place, which, I forgot to mention, we had 
 visited the day before. 
 
 At lunch, which we took in a Cafe garden near 
 by, our guide again made his influence felt. It was 
 against the rules to put two tables together, and he 
 was just in the act of doing this, when a waiter 
 came rushing up, forbidding it. "Nur ruhig" he 
 replied, and kept on, while the waiter angrily went 
 away without taking our order. Charlie, however, 
 unabashed at this went off and returned with the 
 head waiter, who laughingly took our order. He 
 was another of Charlie's friends. 
 
 Returning to the palace we saw more interest- 
 ing things among which were Voltaire's room and 
 several of Madam Pompadour's clocks, which were 
 beautiful and costly. When Frederick the Great 
 began to tire of Voltaire he planned this room dur- 
 ing his absence. Voltaire was a vain man, hence 
 he had a complete outfit of toilet accessories made, 
 but all, shaving cup, brush, etc. in minature form. 
 And the walls were decorated with strutting pea- 
 cocks. Voltaire was a very homely man despite his 
 extreme vanity and Frederick personated him 
 through monkeys, in fact the whole room repre- 
 sented his character, which was anything but praise- 
 worthy, and when he returned and saw this room 
 he felt that he had fallen from grace and departed. 
 The Spider Room was another interesting 
 
40 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 feature. It contains a spider's web and spider 
 painted on the ceiling in the middle of the room. 
 The story connected with this runs as follows : 
 Frederick the Great was fond of his cup of chocolate 
 in the morning, and had sent for it as usual. Now, 
 there had been a conspiracy against his life and it 
 was arranged that the cook should mix a strong 
 and deadly poison in his cup. When it was brought 
 to him and he was about to put the cup to his lips, 
 a spider from above dropped down into it. Dis- 
 gusted he poured the chocolate into a saucer for 
 his favorite dog, of which he was very fond, and 
 sent for a second cup. The dog licked the chocolate 
 and without a moan lay dead. Frederick, how- 
 ever, thought him asleep and impatiently paced the 
 floor. Meanwhile a servant had appeared in the 
 kitchen demanding a second cup. "What !" cried 
 the cook, "if Frederick drank the first, he will never 
 need the second," but when assured that he was alive 
 and waiting, the cook hurriedly took his flight. 
 While this was taking place Frederick was bending 
 over what he thought was his sleeping dog, but 
 soon saw that life was extinct. Going to the empty 
 cup he now saw a peculiar substance in it. He 
 immediately surmised all, realizing in what danger 
 his life had been, and in memory of this had the 
 room painted in the manner before mentioned. 
 
 The private dining-room was also interesting. 
 
BELGIUM, HOLLAND AND GERMANY. 41 
 
 It was here that, when he wished no servants around 
 him, or when he held important secret meetings 
 concerning the affairs of state, the table was set and 
 all the necessities were sent up from the kitchen on a 
 dumb-waiter. 
 
 This peculiar man died in a chair by a window 
 with one of his favorite dogs on either side, and 
 these his last moments are immortalized in marble, 
 a wonderful piece of work. It gives one a strange 
 feeling to look at this face bending forward and 
 staring ahead with death agony written on the feat- 
 ures, and his dogs looking up at him uneasily. 
 
 From this we went to the New Palace which 
 is magnificent. I will only note the Shell Room, 
 as it is called, which must be seen to be appreciated. 
 The walls and ceilings are made up of beautiful 
 shells forming all kinds of figures, and between 
 these is a countless number of precious stones. The 
 whole room reminded me of an enchanted chamber 
 in a fairy-tale. Of the two hundred rooms of this 
 palace the Shell Room alone is worth the visit. 
 
 After going through the palaces we proceeded 
 to the Garden and Orangery, which is adorned with 
 statuary. In this were the trophies which the 
 Germans captured from the Chinese. The garden 
 with the famous Sanssouci Fountains aroused our 
 enthusiasm and we regretted very much not being 
 able to spend more time in it. 
 
42 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 The historical Old Mill, which is just outside 
 the garden, is very picturesque, and marks another 
 event in the life of Frederick. 
 
 He was quite musical and among other in- 
 struments played the flute. The room in which he 
 was wont to play was on the side nearest the mill 
 and its rattle and noise disturbed him very much, 
 and he ordered the mill closed. The miller, how- 
 ever, a very determined man, took no heed to this, 
 and when he was called before Frederick, who 
 threatened to take the mill away from him, he re- 
 plied, "Your Majesty has no right to do this and if 
 it happens I shall summon your own law to my aid." 
 
 This answer both surprised and pleased Fred- 
 erick, who admired bravery, and the miller was 
 rewarded accordingly and to this day, descendants 
 of the miller's family are living in it and as long as 
 the generation exists it is not to go out of their 
 hands. 
 
 After this most interesting day we returned to 
 Berlin thoroughly satisfied with our trip, and hardly 
 tired, but found time to take an evening walk in the 
 beautiful Thiergarten, which is a park two miles long 
 with many ponds and groves of large trees. 
 
 Next day after lunch we started for Dresden 
 three hours distant. This is a pretty place and the 
 favorite abode of Americans. While here we went 
 through the Museum and the celebrated Green 
 
BELGIUM, HOLLAND AND GERMANY. 43 
 
 Vault, in which are many precious diamonds and 
 stones of enormous wealth. The Royal Palace was 
 also visited. 
 
 The picture gallery, supposed to be the finest 
 in Germany contains the Sistine Madonna and other 
 celebrated works. In one room we saw the "Choco- 
 late Lady" as our guide called it, which represents 
 the Quaker Lady so widely advertised on Baker's 
 cocoa and chocolate. 
 
 The following day we left Dresden for Vienna 
 and after a beautiful ride arrived there by night. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 VIENNA AND ITALY. 
 
 It was here that we encountered our first day of 
 rain, since the beginning of the tour from 
 Liverpool, for when we arose next day it was 
 to a leaden sky and the incessant thud of rain drops 
 which continued all that day and the next as if to 
 make up for all the lovely days before. 
 
 We persevered in our sight-seeing however, 
 but did not see this beautiful city to advantage, as 
 the weather threw a damper on us. Our means of 
 conveyance was a German tallyho, with the lower 
 seats protected, the top ones very preferable in nice 
 weather. Even in the rain some of the girls climbed 
 up and everywhere we appeared the people stared 
 at us open mouthed, and a little old woman was 
 almost run over, she seemed so petrified with aston- 
 ishment. 
 
 We stopped at the Imperial Vault, where lie the 
 coffins of Maria Theresia, Maria Louise, Maximilian 
 of Mexico, and proceeded through the palace in 
 which we saw the apartments of Maria Theresia. 
 
 The riding school and the Royal Stables were 
 
VIENNA AND ITALY. 45 
 
 interesting. In these stables are six hundred and 
 sixteen horses and over three hundred and twenty 
 carriages. 
 
 I could understand the men's enthusiasm over 
 the horses, for I, myself, derived much pleasure 
 from looking at the beautiful animals, some of which 
 were of the purest white. 
 
 A pussy had made itself a bed on a mound of 
 hay thrown before one of the horses and was blink- 
 ing at us from under his very nose, which he did 
 not seem to mind, however. 
 
 From here we rode to Schonbrunn, a splendid 
 Imperial residence, the summer abode of the Em- 
 peror. It is here that Napoleon had his head- 
 quarters, and where his son died. 
 
 Beautiful gardens, fountains, statuary and 
 flowers adorn the place. The tall trees had been 
 cut straight down on the side facing the avenue, 
 while the other side of the same trees were left in 
 natural growth. This formed a singular effect and 
 gave the appearance of an immense green wall. 
 
 The prettiest places, however, looked dull on 
 this day, for it was still raining furiously, and as 
 no carriages were allowed we viewed the garden on 
 foot, but the umbrellas over us and the necessary 
 attention to the puddles at our feet kept our eyes 
 from the pretty things. 
 
46 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 We parted that night with the hope for more 
 agreeable weather next day, but the morning dawned 
 and still the same monotonous patter continued 
 against the windows. The others went out but I 
 stayed back to meet my cousin who arrived at the 
 hotel at the appointed time and we spent the day 
 together as best we could, even braving the rain. 
 When he left me in the evening I felt that my visit 
 to Vienna had not altogether gone "zu Wasser", as 
 the German expresses a failure. 
 
 Next day (O, tantalizing fate) was the most 
 beautiful of days. We were leaving Vienna to 
 travel all day in the train, where rain is sometimes 
 quite useful to keep down the soot, but on this oc- 
 casion the scenery was so grand that we were glad 
 of the favorable weather. In our enthusiasm, we 
 could not remain seated, but lined up along the win- 
 dows calling and exclaiming. 
 
 When, after passing picturesque bridges, we 
 would reach the top of a mountain and look at the 
 immeasurable depth below, with the bridges we had 
 passed and the valleys beneath, we could hardly find 
 words to express the grandeur of it all. 
 
 In the evening we changed cars at the frontier 
 and had our baggage examined, passing through 
 what we at first thought a rigid examination of the 
 Customs. They ordered us out of the train with 
 all our baggage, and when we at last staggered into 
 
VIENNA AND ITALY. 47 
 
 the examination room, which was closely guarded, 
 we were surrounded by officers, who kept shouting 
 as if in a terrible rage and made us think that our 
 very souls would be searched, when suddenly we 
 received a chalk mark on our belongings, some with- 
 out even having opened their baggage, and were 
 dismissed without further ceremony. We came to 
 enjoy these inspections, especially as we, being a 
 party, usually pulled through admirably. Our guide 
 always told us to fall back and let him ahead, and 
 he would then produce his satchel, which was inno- 
 cent of souvenirs or other smuggled goods, and his 
 trunk also which he tried to have on top of ours, 
 and, when mentioning us, as his party, we were al- 
 ways allowed to go without further examination. 
 
 After this we boarded our train and passed into 
 Italy, when the scenery changed somewhat but was 
 still beautiful, and later on the moon rose red and 
 large. 
 
 Oh, it was a most beautiful night when we ar- 
 rived at Venice at eleven o'clock. As usual we were 
 tormenting our guide with eager questions, especial- 
 ly about the gondolas, and he assured us very earn- 
 estly that the bus would be at the station to convey 
 us to the hotel in the usual manner and amused him- 
 self immensely at my especially disappointed face, 
 but when we went through the station to the other 
 side — there ! we saw Venice aflame with light, and 
 
48 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 a half dozen gondolas in waiting, with their steers- 
 men all talking at once and in an excited manner. 
 
 It was Queen Marguerite's birthday and our 
 guide had prepared a pleasant surprise, for we were 
 to see the illumination before we turned in at the 
 hotel. We were charmed with the brilliancy of it. 
 The music issued mainly from a pavilion, a verit- 
 able bower of light on the water, and as the strains 
 of Tannhauser came to us we thought they were 
 never so impressive before. As our hotel was not 
 far distant the music even afterward lulled us to 
 sleep. 
 
 Next morning our chief aim was to see what 
 we could of Venice without the aid of a gondola, 
 which we did starting from the back of our hotel, 
 (the front was a water way,) walking along the 
 pavements and crossing bridges, until we reached 
 St. Mark's Square, which is surrounded by palaces 
 suggesting past grandeur, and St. Mark's Church. 
 
 It is a picturesque center of Venetian life, es- 
 pecially at evening when the bands play and people 
 crowd there by the thousands. During the day the 
 pigeons reign. These have been fed here daily for 
 seven hundred years. They are so tame that one 
 is in danger of stepping on them, and if you buy 
 corn for a few centimes and display it, they fly on 
 your shoulders, head and hands in their endeavor to 
 secure it. 
 
VIENNA AND ITALY. 49 
 
 In the afternoon we had a delightful ride in a 
 little yacht to Lido and Torcello, which has a won- 
 derful seventh century cathedral that looks from the 
 outside like an old ruin, but is famous for the 
 mosaics it contains. 
 
 Lido is a pretty sea shore resort and we amused 
 ourselves watching the bathers. 
 
 In the evening everyone went gondola riding. 
 Oh, never to be forgotten night ! The moon rose 
 full over the dome of the beautiful church Maria de 
 la Salute and its reflection on the water mingled 
 with the surrounding lights. This, together with 
 the delightful music and singing which prevailed 
 everywhere, made the night most enchanting, but it 
 came to an end at last and the next morning dawned 
 as fair as the foregoing. 
 
 Our first visiting place on this day was the 
 beautiful Doge's Palace, in which we saw the Gold- 
 en Staircase, also the Giant Staircase where the 
 Doges were crowned. It was here that we saw the 
 secret room of the police with its door leading to 
 the Bridge of Sighs which connects the palace with 
 the chief prison in Venice and over which the pris- 
 oners were brought. It has a double passage and it 
 is said, that when prisoners were brought through 
 this passage they never returned but knew their 
 doom and consequently its silent grim walls heard 
 many a sigh and groan. This is also in close con- 
 
 4 
 
50 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 nection with the room where prisoners were tor- 
 tured. 
 
 The Hall of the Council of Ten is the largest 
 room in the palace with the portraits of the Doges 
 and a number of old historical pictures and Tintor- 
 etto's Paradise. If I have not noted wrongly there 
 are two-thousand heads in this picture, and it took 
 eleven months to finish it. 
 
 From this room we stepped out on the balcony 
 to enjoy a view of Venice, and were shown a place 
 between the arches where a Doge was crowned and 
 a short while after beheaded in the same place. 
 From here we also saw before us the sight of the 
 Campanile. 
 
 Next we visited the dark prisons and saw the 
 cell occupied by Lord Byron twenty-four hours. 
 There were low dungeons where the prisoners were 
 deprived even of light and where the executions 
 took place. Sometimes they were starved, or left 
 to be drowned by the tide which rises and falls 
 about Venice and their bodies given to the gondo- 
 liers through a hole in the wall. 
 
 The Church of St. Mark near by was next visit- 
 ed, which is a magnificent piece of Venetian archi- 
 tecture built in the form of a Greek cross. Our at- 
 tention was attracted to the floor, which is quite 
 uneven and sunken here and there caused by the 
 tide which has twice flooded the place. 
 
VIENNA AND ITALY. 5 1 
 
 The Altar behind the Tomb of St. Mark the 
 Apostle has four alabaster columns, two of which 
 are said to have belonged to Solomon's Temple. 
 They are beautiful and transparent, and we all 
 stepped up to see the light through them. 
 
 The next church we entered was the Maria de 
 la Salute, which is often conspicuous in pictures of 
 Venice, and has many statues and paintings, ad- 
 joining Patriarchal Seminary with rich library and 
 pictures. 
 
 From here we jumped into our gondolas once 
 more and made for the hotel passing under the Rialto 
 Bridge. By this time it was evening, but after par- 
 taking of our meal none seemed tired enough to stay 
 in, but soon all the "Cookies" (as we had named 
 ourselves) did not stay in the pantry, but could all 
 be found afloat again in the watery streets of Venice. 
 
 We did not forget to festoon the stores either 
 before leaving and did it so thoroughly on this occa- 
 sion that we almost knew the contents of certain 
 windows Dy heart and in each doorway was "a 
 spider glibly inviting us flies to enter" and charging 
 great prices for their ware. 
 
 The last beautiful morning dawned on Venice 
 and we had our farewell gondola ride to the station. 
 On our way we met huckstering gondolas, grocery 
 wagons, I meant to say grocery gondolas, laden with 
 provisions and at one house they were moving, and 
 
52 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 all kinds of household furnishings were being carried 
 down into one. 
 
 The well-to-do families of Venice have their 
 own private equipments and mostly two gondoliers 
 becomingly arrayed in white suits and broad- 
 brimmed hats with blue or red bands and a sash of 
 the same color around their waist and tied at the 
 side. Some of these fellows looked decidedly grace- 
 ful and very clean, which is a rather unusual feat- 
 ure with Italians. 
 
 After successfully avoiding two collisions in 
 in which the gondoliers exchanged a few pet names 
 and engaged in a heated argument as to who turned 
 in the wrong direction, we finally arrived at the 
 station and climbed the broad stairs with a last long- 
 look over our shoulder. 
 
 The day became quite warm and at Bologna we 
 changed cars and arrived at Florence at half past 
 six o'clock in the evening. Our hotel was on the 
 Arno River and my window afforded full view of 
 the stream. It was at one time a palace of a Medici, 
 which explained the arrangement of some of the 
 rooms and the presence of antechambers. 
 
 Next morning after breakfast found us all col- 
 lected in the hall ready for our days work. The 
 first place on the list was the Palace, a tall massive 
 building. The court-yard contains some dainty work 
 including: a fountain in the center with the figure of 
 
VIENNA AND ITALY. 53 
 
 a boy and a vase which is much admired. The Uffizi 
 and Pitti Galleries, part of the palace contain vast art 
 collections and which I won't begin to describe. 
 
 We proceeded to the Church of the Holy Cross 
 an imposing basilica, in which are the tombs of 
 Galileo, Michael Angelo and other great men. The 
 walls had been whitewashed for four centuries, but 
 by a peculiar process have been uncovered and dis- 
 play some valuable paintings beneath. 
 
 The Cathedral Maria del Fiori is one of the 
 grandest Gothic churches in Europe. The dome is 
 higher than that of St. Peter's, and may be ascended. 
 The interior contains much of art. The Bell Tower 
 is another marvelous piece of work,and in the chapel 
 is a tomb of Countess Moltke, a niece of the great 
 General. At the Baptistery we saw the celebrated 
 bronze doors, after which we went through the 
 chapel of St. Lorenzo, belonging to the Medici 
 family, and in the Sacristy, which is new, are An- 
 gelo's "Twilight", "Dawn", "Day" and "Night" 
 over the tombs of the Medici. 
 
 In the afternoon we went driving in the park 
 and stopped at the Marble Works to watch the 
 artists in their occupation and viewed the most ex- 
 quisite stone productions heretofore seen. 
 
 We left next day for Rome arriving at two 
 P. M. Here we visited the Vatican. Our attention 
 was first attracted to the singular uniform of the 
 
54 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 Swiss Guards. We ascended the splendid staircase 
 which on festive occasions is often decorated and 
 entered the Sistine Chapel viewing the magnificent 
 ceiling frescoed by Michael Angelo. 
 
 In the picture gallery we viewed more wonderful 
 paintings. From a window we saw the Alban Hills 
 and the walls of the Vatican. These grounds cover 
 an area of three miles. We also saw Hadrian's 
 Castle of St. Angelo. Last of all we viewed the 
 gardens of the Vatican, where the Pope used to 
 promenade. 
 
 In the afternoon we visited St. John's Lateran, 
 the Pope's Church. In close connection with it is a 
 monastery court of the Thirteenth Century which is 
 very beautiful and starts one to dreaming of the times 
 ages ago when sombre looking monks might have 
 been seen walking in the garden chanting their 
 prayers. 
 
 Not far from here we viewed an Egyptian 
 obelisk which is so old, our guide told us, that Moses 
 might have looked upon it as a boy. In the church 
 was shown to us a white marble sarcophagus with 
 a black lion, the place where the Pope would be 
 buried, should he die. At the time we were in 
 Rome, he was lingering between life and death, and 
 died before we left. 
 
 The Church of St. Croce stands among lonely 
 fields and dates from the Fourth Century. In this 
 
VIENNA AND ITALY. 55 
 
 is the Holy Staircase which Luther ascended on his 
 knees. It is said to be much worn, and is now 
 covered. A man, woman, and child were crawling 
 up step by step engaged in devotion, but could not 
 refrain from casting backward glances of curiosity 
 at us. 
 
 From here we proceeded to the Baths of Cara- 
 calla, driving along the celebrated Appian Way, 
 from which place we had a fine view of the aque- 
 ducts, and the Alban Mountains. These Baths still 
 show remains of their ancient vastness and mag- 
 nificence. They accommodated sixteen hundred 
 bathers. The walls of the rooms were said to have 
 been porphyry and alabaster. Parts of the mosaic 
 floors still exist. As we stood around our learned 
 guide, listening to his tale of bygone splendour which 
 once reigned in the vast ruins, some one remarked, 
 that in those days the Romans believed in washing 
 themselves, which is more than they do now. 
 
 We picked beautiful wild flowers and maiden 
 hair fern among the ruins and scared up an owl 
 which had made its abode in a dark corner of the 
 wall. Before the roof fell in, a hermit had dwelled 
 at this silent spot. 
 
 From here we again entered our carriages and 
 after a delightful drive passed through the beautiful 
 Arch of Constantine, and alighted in fair view of 
 the Colosseum. It is a magnificent ruin, — one-third 
 
56 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 of it still standing, — and of the portion taken away 
 many palaces have been built. It was the scene of 
 terrible bloodshed. Ten thousand men and five 
 thousand beasts were slain at its inauguration, and 
 it is here that countless fights of gladiators took 
 place, and the Christians were thrown to the lions. 
 
 Our excellent guide made the scene so graphic 
 that we almost imagined we could see the gladiators 
 and lions emerging from their apartments under- 
 neath the stage. To view these gigantic ruins by 
 moonlight makes the place become alive with past 
 memories. 
 
 After this pleasing day followed a second. We 
 visited the Forum. What an interesting morning 
 we spent among these ruins, many thousands of 
 years old. It is impossible for me to describe this 
 place, so I will just mention a few interesting facts. 
 
 We were shown the place where Julius Caesar 
 spoke to the people and the foundation of the temple 
 of Caesar, where Mark Anthony delivered his 
 funeral oration. 
 
 From a high elevation we looked down on the 
 Arch of Titus and the remains of the House of the 
 Vestal Virgins, an abode of nuns, and also the 
 House of Cicero. 
 
 We saw the place where Caligula was mur- 
 dered and also where Julius Caesar's life was taken. 
 
 Further on was the house of Germanicus, and 
 
VIENNA AND ITALY. 57 
 
 the Temple of Victory iooo B. C, and the palace 
 where Agrippina received her guests, and Nero 
 played as a child. 
 
 Some of the terra cotta pipes which run along 
 its walls are said to have been made by women. On 
 the walls are still faint remains of exquisite paint- 
 ings. 
 
 In the afternoon we visited St. Peters, which 
 is built on the site of Nero's Circus, where the Chris- 
 tians were persecuted, and St. Peter was martyred. 
 An obelisk marks the place. 
 
 St. Peter's Church is six hundred and ninety-six 
 feet long and one hundred and fifty-three feet high. 
 Imagine such dimensions. When one enters the 
 front, the people at the extreme other end look very 
 small. Everything is so colossal in this church, but 
 it does not appear so at a distance, as the vast ex- 
 panse is in keeping with the surroundings. 
 
 The high altar over the tomb of St. Peter is 
 approached by marble stairs, and surrounded by 
 one hundred and twelve ever burning lamps, which, 
 from the entrance look like tiny candle lights. The 
 effect is very beautiful. 
 
 The Pope's temporary resting place was shown 
 to us, where his body would first be taken. 
 
 The famous bronze statue of St. Peter was also 
 viewed. The toe of this statue has been so fre- 
 
58 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 quently kissed that it has entirely disappeared, and a 
 silver cap now covers the place. 
 
 From here we drove to the Pantheon. The 
 circular interior is very impressive. It receives its 
 light from an opening in the dome, which is twenty- 
 eight feet in diameter, and open to all kinds of 
 weather. To the observer this opening appears to 
 be not more than a few feet in diameter, but the 
 great height at which it is placed is deceiving. 
 
 Raphael is buried here, and we also saw the 
 temporary resting place of King Humbert, and the 
 tomb where King Victor Emmanuel of Italy will lie. 
 
 What I have told you of Rome is very little, for 
 it contains so much of interest, and may well be 
 called the Eternal City. 
 
 Four of the party, myself included, had planned 
 a side trip to Naples and Pompeii and started out 
 next day. It was very warm, and after resting at 
 the hotel we went to view the excavations. After 
 looking at casts of bodies which were shown in just 
 the position they had been found, we went up to 
 Pompeii, and spent a few very interesting hours 
 among its ruins. 
 
 The walls are one and a half miles around, with 
 eight gates. The streets are paved with lava blocks, 
 and have stepping stones and foundations at the 
 corners. The concrete lower stories of the houses 
 are still preserved, but the other stories were burned. 
 
VIENNA AND I TALY. 59 
 
 We viewed the vast amphitheatre, which seated 
 20,000, in fact we saw all there was to see, but which 
 I could not describe in detail. 
 
 Perhaps many of you have looked through the 
 Pompeian Room at Centennial Hall, Fairmount 
 Park. The pictures of the excavations on the right 
 hand side are exactly as I saw them, and trod over 
 those very stones, and in and out of those ruins. 
 
 It was a very hot day, and little Italian boys 
 with buckets of fresh spring water followed and we 
 frequently quenched our burning thirst. 
 
 From this place we had a good view of Mt. 
 Vesuvius near by, which every now and then emit- 
 ted little puffs of smoke. Next day a slight erup- 
 tion took place in which sufficient lava flowed out to 
 destroy the little watch house on the mountain, but 
 without doing further damage. We were sorry that 
 it did not happen when we were there, as it must 
 have been intensely interesting, of course only as 
 long at there was no danger. 
 
 For about the first time, that night after we re- 
 turned to Naples, we did not go out, but spent the 
 evening on little piazzas which led out from each 
 window, and enjoyed an interesting view of the city. 
 
 This place abounds in beggars. At every turn 
 they accost you, even following the carriages in 
 numbers, until becoming disgusted, you throw a 
 
60 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 handful of centimes at them, when they fall back, 
 and there is a wild scramble. 
 
 On the evening of this day there were bills 
 posted everywhere, before which the people stood 
 talking excitedly, and those who knew a little Ital- 
 ian, thought it looked like the death notice of Pope 
 Leo XIII, which was verified later at the hotel. 
 
 There was no unusual excitement, however, and 
 we were not prevented from our sightseeing. We 
 visited the Museum of Naples next day, and saw 
 much of interest, especially of Pompeii. We then 
 took our carriages and drove up the hill to the Castle 
 of St. Elmo, which is a vast fortress, now used as a 
 military prison. Close by is the Monastery of San 
 Martino of the 13th Century, in which is a part of 
 the National Museum. 
 
 The Cloisters are beautiful. They are sur- 
 rounded by white marble columns, and adorned with 
 statuary, and the magnificent church is lined with 
 choice marbles and mosaics, and contains famous 
 paintings. 
 
 As interesting as the morning was, the best was 
 yet to come. From a balcony of the Monastery we 
 enjoyed an exquisite view of the beautiful bay of 
 Naples and surroundings. This alone was worth 
 the coming. We were quite lost in admiration. 
 Our guide had to pull us away, as it was 
 getting late and our train was scheduled to leave 
 
VIENNA AND ITALY. 6l 
 
 right after luncheon for Rome, where we arrived at 
 eight o'clock in the evening. 
 
 At noon next day we left for Pisa, and saw the 
 Leaning Tower, climbing to the very top, from 
 which point we again enjoyed a magnificent view. 
 
 Near by is the Baptistery, which has a handsome 
 font. A baby was just being christened, which 
 ceremony we were privileged to witness. 
 
 Afterwards we listened to the wonderful echo 
 in the dome, aroused by a man singing, and which 
 formed chords like those of a church organ. 
 
 We left Pisa in the afternoon, for Genoa. This 
 is a most tantalizing ride. When the first blue 
 streak of the beautiful Mediterranean began to ap- 
 pear, some cheered loudly, threw up their hats, and 
 gave way to their enthusiasm in various ways. Alas, 
 we were only to get short glimpses of it, for when 
 we came alongside, we rushed out of one tunnel into 
 another. Our "Ohs" and "Ahs" had not died from 
 our lips before we were again submerged into dark- 
 ness. As soon as daylight appeared everyone leaped 
 to the windows to make the most of their time. At 
 last one of the ladies became disgusted, and winding 
 a black silk handkerchief around her head to keep 
 out the soot, leaned back, in a corner, and said 
 "disturb me no more." 
 
 Dear friends, on that afternoon we passed 
 through one hundred and eight tunnels, and when 
 
62 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 we as last arrived at Genoa, we appeared to belong 
 to the Caucasian race no more. Alas, for the ladies 
 who had donned their white waists. We were 
 getting hardened, however, by this time, and after 
 supper we had some music and a cake walk in the 
 parlor of the hotel, and felt as chipper as ever. 
 
 Next morning our drive was through the town 
 to the cathedral. On the way there one of the 
 horses attached to our carriage became unruly; the 
 driver fell from his seat, and his feet became en- 
 tangled in the reigns, and we jumped from the car- 
 riage just as one of the horses tumbled and fell 
 breaking the shaft. I was the last of the four to 
 jump, and it was very fortunate for the driver and 
 me that the horse fell, which prevented a mad runa- 
 way, as the other horse had also become frightened. 
 
 After a short delay we entered another carriage 
 and reached the cathedral without further excite- 
 ment. From here we drove out to the bay and up a 
 hill where we viewed Genoa and the beautiful waters 
 of the Mediterranean Sea, and arrived at the Campo 
 Santo where in long corridors statue upon statue is 
 grouped in tribute to the dead. 
 
 We left Genoa in the afternoon, going through 
 only ten tunels and arriving at Milan at 7 105 in the 
 evening. Our hotel was in full view of the cathe- 
 dral second to St. Peter's in size and which we 
 visited the following morning. Of this structure 
 
VIENNA AND ITALY. 63 
 
 the wonderful marble roof alone has two thousand 
 life sized statues and when one climbs the five 
 hundred steps which lead to the summit and looks 
 over these figures amid numerous turrets, steeples 
 and buttresses the effect is almost indescribable. 
 
 We too ascended them but long before we had 
 reached the last step to the top, a number had fallen 
 back declaring they could go no further, but a few 
 persevered and we were repaid when we reached 
 the top and enjoyed the view before described. The 
 city beneath was a toy affair, the people looking like 
 penny dolls, and in the distance the snow-clad Alps, 
 the Apennines, the Jungfrau and other mountains 
 fringed the horizon. We became so interested that 
 we forgot all about the others who had already gone 
 down, and in our hurry entered a different stairway 
 and reached the bottom at the extreme other end of 
 the meeting-place. The others had waited, then 
 left, thinking we preferred staying up there. They 
 had gone on to view the remains of Leonardo da 
 Vinci's picture of the Last Supper. The picture is 
 in a very old church and has been whitewashed, then 
 scraped, and the monks, (stupid fellows,) cut the 
 picture to put a door in the wall. The picture is 
 crumbling and becoming faint, but still thousands 
 come to view it. 
 
 In the evening we went promenading in the 
 Victor Emmanuel Gallery, the finest arcade in the 
 
64 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 world and surrounded by handsome shops, and 
 stopped to hear some music well rendered by a ladies 
 orchestra. 
 
 We left Milan quite satisfied with it and started 
 for Como. There we took a steamer and after a 
 most beautiful ride on Lake Como, arrived at Men- 
 aggio, our next stopping place, with which we were 
 all delighted. Our hotel was only a few feet away 
 from the water and we found we had all received a 
 room facing the lake. 
 
 I am sure I was never in a more picturesque 
 spot. The grand mountains on all sides, dotted here 
 and there with villages nestling amid vineyards and 
 forests, formed a becoming frame to this charming 
 little lake of which the poets delight to sing. 
 
 In the evening tiny fires could be seen burning 
 on the mountains opposite in celebration of the day, 
 (we were told,) the significance of which I regret 
 not to know. 
 
 After a few delightful hours rowing on the lake 
 and sitting in the garden, we at last sought rest, 
 but not before I had stood long at my window 
 charmed with the night. The sky was brilliant with 
 stars which seemed also to be in the lake at my feet. 
 The base of the big black mountains opposite were 
 being lit up every now and then by a search-light 
 which went the entire round of the lake, and this 
 was done all night. I do not know why, perhaps 
 
VIENNA AND ITALY. 65 
 
 to watch the lake and shore for anything suspicious, 
 at any rate, I awoke once during the night to find 
 the mysterious light just flitting across my bed, 
 from where I could look over the lake. 
 
 Next morning was Sabbath and a peaceful quiet 
 seemed to prevail everywhere, interrupted only by 
 the bells which burst forth in melodious peal. 
 There was no clamor of city noises or excitement, 
 for beside a few pretty hotels, there was only a small 
 village and that one quarter of an hour distant, and 
 Oh, goodness be praised ! no museums to go through, 
 or picture galleries or cathedrals to be visited, for 
 we had already seen so many that we felt quite 
 crammed and dangerously near a moral dyspepsia. 
 Nothing to do but to study nature sitting in the 
 garden under the beautiful magnolia trees, in which 
 the birds made music, or to row out on the lake and 
 watch the shores reflected on its bosom. 
 
 While staying here, an amusing incident oc- 
 curred to me. First I would like to note that the 
 elevators of Europe are sometimes curious arrange- 
 ments and become ridiculous when compared with 
 those of America. Often it occurred that those 
 going up the stairs reached the top before the ele- 
 vators so exceeding slow did some of them work. 
 Rarely more than four were allowed in one and 
 these were sometimes sent up without an attendant. 
 
66 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 Quite frequently they became out of order and re- 
 fused to work at all. 
 
 On this particular morning- at Menaggio I was 
 just about to ascend the stairs when the porter 
 beckoned to the little elevator near by. It was 
 about comfortably large enough for one person but 
 there was also a large one on the place. I stepped 
 into the elevator, which was one of the self -going 
 kind, while the porter stayed back to watch its 
 progress. Halfway between two floors it suddenly 
 stopped, refusing to work either way. I heard the 
 man fumbling with the ropes and a few minutes 
 after saw him rushing to the story above, endeavor- 
 ing to start it. There I was, like a caged bird 
 and unable to escape my prison, while the porter 
 made frequent flying trips from the bottom of the 
 stairs to the top muttering and shaking his head. 
 At last the naughty little cage began to move up- 
 wards and with a sigh of relief I stepped out and 
 called to the worried man below that all was right. 
 
 Somehow after that I became fond of the exer- 
 cise of stair-climbing rather than be made prisoner 
 a second time. 
 
 The weather was still perfect the morning we 
 left by electric cars for Lugano, where we changed 
 for the train bound for Lucerne. 
 
 The ride from Menaggio was very pretty with 
 the lake on one side and the mountains on the other, 
 
VIENNA AND ITALY. 67 
 
 but after we left Lugano and travelled by way of 
 St. Gotthard the scenery became overwhelming. 
 
 Beautiful cascades varied with roaring torrents 
 crowned by snowy peaks of inaccessible heights fol- 
 lowed by gorges and deep fertile valleys, with pic- 
 turesque villages nestling among the shadow of 
 rugged mountains and these again tamed down to 
 slopes where herds of cattle grazed amid the bright 
 green. 
 
 As usual we had our reserved car and were en- 
 joying ourselves. The guide was explaining the 
 surroundings and whenever he called we all sprang 
 up. 
 
 "To this side", he exclaimed, and everybody 
 scrambled, and a minute later he would call "now 
 quick to the other", at which we leaped in the oppo- 
 site direction, for we did not want to miss the least 
 of our beautiful surrounding. 
 
 When he turned to us and earnestly remarked, 
 "now comes something great, everybody to the right 
 and watch", we obeyed full of expectation. 
 
 A minute later we were in a deep black tunnel, 
 and our guide sat back laughing, his little trick had 
 worked. We had an ample share of tunnels on that 
 day, one of which was very long and took over 
 fifteen minutes to pass through. 
 
 We arrived at Lucerne in the evening and again 
 our hotel was in view of the lake. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 SWITZERLAND. 
 
 Iucerne is beautifully situated at the outlet of the 
 most lovely lake in Switzerland between the 
 ■ "" Pilatus and Rigi and facing the Alps. 
 Its shops are very attractive, the streets pretty and 
 clean, and at night especially along the lake delight- 
 ful music greets the ear and the numerous boats on 
 the water are lit up with many colored lights. 
 
 One of the principal things to see is Thor- 
 waldsen's Lion of Lucerne which represents a dying 
 lion cut in the face of a cliff and commemorating 
 eight hundred soldiers of the Swiss Guards who 
 died in defence of the Tuileries. It is a wonderful 
 piece of work and especially impressive at night 
 when there is illumination. 
 
 The Glacial Gardens are also interesting and 
 show that Lucerne must have been a glacier at one 
 time. The huge stones, once twirled around by the 
 water, have worn deep holes in the top of a rocky 
 glacier. There are also stones there with the im- 
 pression of palm leaves and other tropical plants, 
 which show that at one time the temperature must 
 have been also tropical. 
 
SWITZERLAND. 69 
 
 After this the "Cookies" all went in a mirror 
 maze and found themselves bumping into the glass 
 at every turn. The elevator, in which six people, 
 by means of looking-glass walls, give back the re- 
 flection of a countlesss number, was also tried. In 
 the evening some of us went to hear Tyrolean sing- 
 ing which was excellent. 
 
 Next day an excursion to the Rigi was made. 
 It was a beautiful morning and crowds flocked to 
 the boats. We rode across the lake to Vitznau, 
 where we took the cars for the top. The scenery 
 was beautiful and mountain flowers of every de- 
 scription lined the way. 
 
 On arriving at the summit we lunched at the 
 hotel after which we hurried out. 
 
 What a sight met our eyes ! We looked down 
 into a new world. On all sides were mountains, 
 snow-capped and otherwise, until far back, the lakes, 
 immovable sheets of deep blue and green, with the 
 ships on them looking like water-bugs, the houses 
 as if you could hold a couple in your hands, and the 
 distant villages only a succession of tiny dots. 
 
 We saw the land-slide where in 1806 a hundred 
 houses were swept into the sea. 
 
 We were not long to enjoy the view however, 
 a heavy cloud settled below enveloping all. It also 
 began to rain and we fled to the hotel, but it soon 
 passed over. As the time for leaving came we 
 
JO MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 sauntered to the waiting platform where a little ex- 
 citement occurred. When the car came along, a 
 man ran to meet it and jumped on which was against 
 the rules. Immediately a sturdy conductor caught 
 hold of him ordering him off. He angrily refused 
 to do so and a tussle ensued. By this time the car 
 had stopped but the fellow was promptly arrested 
 and had to pay a heavy fine. It is not likely that 
 the remembrance of the Rigi will awaken any sweet 
 feelings in his bosom. 
 
 Going down we had a beautiful view after we 
 emerged from the cloud and arrived at the hotel 
 feeling very satisfied with our day's outing. 
 
 It was raining quite hard the morning we left 
 Lucerne but when we arrived at the Brunig Pass 
 the weather had favorably changed and we saw 
 more charming scenery. 
 
 The trees and blossoms were almost within a 
 hand's grasp at times and some tried snatching the 
 latter from the open window. At one of the sta- 
 tions, before ascending the pass, there was a few 
 minutes stop and quite a number hurried out. 
 There was another Cook's Party on the train much 
 larger than ours and many of these had also stepped 
 down, when suddenly and without warning the train 
 started off. 
 
 Several dozen people rushed forward, then 
 stopped and looked at the receding train with wild 
 
SWITZERLAND. 71 
 
 fright in their eyes, but it was only switching and 
 soon returned, thereby rolling an avalanche from the 
 hearts of those left back who soon boarded the train 
 with happy faces. After reaching the top of the 
 mountain we descended towards Meiringen, a beauti- 
 ful village encompassed by high snow-capped 
 mountains abounding in romantic waterfalls and 
 cascades. 
 
 From there we proceeded by railway to Brienz 
 and then by steamer to Interlaken passing the Gies- 
 bach Waterfall. 
 
 Interlaken is another fascinating place, beauti- 
 fully situated in a glen between two lakes and a most 
 fashionable and popular resort. The promenade 
 lined with trees affords pleasant walking and a 
 beautiful view of the mountains, especially the 
 Jungfrau glistening in perpetual whiteness. 
 
 We enjoyed some excellent music at the Kur- 
 saal, then stepped back into the miniature Monte 
 Carlo to watch the people gamble during inter- 
 mission. 
 
 Among the fashionable people crowding around 
 the tables was a little wrinkled old woman, who with 
 trembling hand was taking some money from her 
 hand-bag and with eager eyes sought a place to 
 gamble. 
 
 An excursion was planned for the following 
 day to Grindelwald and at the appointed time the 
 
7 2 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 "Cookies" could be seen with warm wraps, rain 
 coats and umbrellas, anxiously studying the sky 
 which looked rather heavy. 
 
 First we passed along an even road through 
 tiny villages, with the neatest little Swiss chalets 
 whose window ledges were mostly filled with flower- 
 ing plants. At one station little girls were dis- 
 playing delicious looking wild strawberries, some of 
 which wandered in through the window. 
 
 On we sped past very green meadows tinted 
 with wild flowers, and crossed streams in which the 
 water seemed to be aboil, fairly bubbling and foam- 
 ing over the many stones. 
 
 Soon the road became steeper and the scenery 
 round about grew wild-looking and strangely fas- 
 cinating. 
 
 The little Swiss houses clinging to the sides of 
 immense steep mountains looked very picturesque 
 and made one wonder how it could be possible to 
 reach them. 
 
 At last we reached Grindelwald and the snow- 
 capped mountains began to look very near. We 
 had a beautiful drive up the mountain, passing a boy 
 with an alp-horn so large that it rested on a founda- 
 tion and for a little tip he blew it awakening a 
 musical echo to which we listened until the last tone 
 died far away among the mountains. 
 
 Presently we approached the celebrated glacier 
 

 The Grindelwald Glacier 
 
SWITZERLAND. 73 
 
 and after climbing some steps in the ice entered the 
 grotto which is cut out of the glacier and is over 
 two hundred feet in length and wonderfully beauti- 
 ful. A silvery blue light casts a peculiar radiance 
 on all around and although there was a lively patter 
 of drops overhead, (it being July,) our umbrellas 
 came down in a hurry and as we viewed the beauti- 
 ful blue around and above us, the little drops seemed 
 to take aim and jumped down right into our up- 
 turned eyes and wonder-opened mouths. At the end 
 of the passage was a flickering candle light, or else 
 we might have walked into the wall becoming so 
 absorbed in looking. 
 
 After emerging from the cave we looked at the 
 mountain of perpetual ice above it, while our con- 
 ductor was telling us of a tale the villagers tell each 
 other, how a young man once climbed the glacier 
 and never returned. They say it takes twenty 
 years for a glacier to reach the bottom of a mountain 
 and the young man's sweetheart waited all these 
 years until one day she, old with years and grief, 
 beheld his body, still as young and handsome as the 
 day he perished, which was due to the fact that it 
 had been imbedded in the ice and preserved by the 
 intense cold. 
 
 This tale did not sound at all improbable to us 
 on that day, for was it not July and were we not 
 standing amid snow and ice while not so many yards 
 
74 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 away the trees were green and wild flowers grew 
 around in profusion ? 
 
 After having satisfied our eyes we turned back, 
 lingering on our way to gather flowers and to watch 
 the noisy waters of a mountain stream, as it rushed 
 beneath rustic bridges. 
 
 Our carriages were waiting and soon we were 
 going down the mountain still enjoying a view of 
 the glacier and at Grindelwald scattered for a short 
 walk and might have been seen in most every store 
 on the main street on the hunt for souvenirs and post 
 cards. 
 
 We returned to Interlaken about six in the 
 evening full of interest over what we had seen and 
 regretted to think that the morrow would be our 
 parting day. 
 
 It was a clear fresh morning when we left and 
 the Jungfrau was glistening and shimmering in the 
 sun-light so that even after we had boarded the train, 
 a few could not refrain from stepping off to take 
 still another look. 
 
 Our next stopping place was Berne, the 
 capital of Switzerland, which we reached after a 
 beautiful ride but where, however, we were to spend 
 only a few hours. We visited the Bear Pit and 
 watched the funny lazy bears, the Kindlifresser 
 Fountain, with which the mothers of Berne fright- 
 
SWITZERLAND. 75 
 
 en their children into obedience, then hastened 
 on to see the Clock Tower proclaim the hour. 
 
 This was my last lunch with the tour party as 
 I was leaving them for a three weeks' stay with 
 relatives in another part of Switzerland after which 
 I was booked to join another Cook's Tour for Gen- 
 eva and Paris and as the next chapter will treat 
 exclusively of my individual experience you will 
 pardon me if I refer to myself in the third person. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 THE JOYS AND SORROWS OF A DE- 
 TACHED COOKIE. 
 
 rather down-hearted member of Cook's 
 Party she was and the first to break the 
 ranks. Somehow lunch passed un- 
 usually quiet that day, some one remarking that the 
 parting "Cookie" was forcefully reminding them of 
 the near and final disbandment of Tour 26, which 
 had become like one large family. 
 
 After a last look at the magnificent panorama 
 of snowy Alps from the garden of the hotel she 
 followed the guide or conductor for the last time 
 who was arranging for her leaving and hurried her 
 into a hotel bus. 
 
 The other "Cookies" had collected in a little 
 party in front of the hotel and were waving their 
 hands and handkerchiefs at the receding bus, where 
 a lonely Cookie was responding with a sad smile. 
 
 She was to reach her destination, Schaffhausen, 
 by evening. Towards the end of the journey, only 
 a loving couple remained in the non-smoking com- 
 partment with the Cookie, but they were billing and 
 
JOYS AND SORROWS OF A DETACHED COOKIE. JJ 
 
 cooing as if they alone existed and thought that 
 "Die Fremde", opposite them did not understand 
 their language. She however understood it all and 
 the remarks made about her hotel-checkered suit- 
 case and about herself, but turned her smiles outside 
 in and seemed to be lost in the view outside. 
 
 At last Schaffhausen was reached and with an 
 eager heart the Cookie alighted. She was about 
 to descend the steps for the other side when a young 
 man came running up and caught hold of her saying 
 "This must be cousin Anna." 
 
 She assented and together they went to the 
 opposite side where an affectionate greeting took 
 place between her and her aunt from whom she had 
 been parted for two months. 
 
 Soon they were on their way to the village, an 
 hour's drive distant. The road was part way along 
 the Rhine and there was a beautiful sunset which 
 died while the moon was rising. 
 
 Another aunt and two more cousins were in the 
 door-way of the little Swiss chalet when the carriage 
 stopped. They were full of expectation but had 
 been troubled now and then, wondering whether 
 their American relative would be proud, or scorn the 
 idea of living in their plain little home. She, how- 
 ever ran up and gave them all a kiss and a hug 
 after which they felt much better. 
 
 The whole happy party then entered. The 
 
78 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 first doorway was framed in green and the woods 
 near by had been stripped of ivy and ever-green to 
 adorn the place. 
 
 Over the middle of the entrance hung a wreath 
 encircling the word "Willkommen" and inside on 
 every picture and window were branches of fir. 
 
 Upstairs was a veritable little woods of green 
 and on a small table in a room which was to be the 
 Cookie's, was a bunch of wild flowers of such dainty 
 prettiness that made her remark they were fit to 
 paint. 
 
 The whole house was scented with such a 
 delicious Christmas smell and the Cookie was happy 
 and so was everybody else. 
 
 After refreshing herself somewhat, she joined 
 the others and all sat down to supper. The room 
 with the snowy-curtained windows and the flower- 
 ledge outside filled with blooming plants, awakened 
 memories in her of days gone by when she had stood 
 in that same room rather a small girl on her first 
 visit from America. 
 
 It was a novel experience for her to live a 
 peasant life for three weeks and she thoroughly 
 enjoyed it which made the others happy and rolled 
 a stone from their hearts. 
 
 The next day was Sunday. It was a lovely 
 fresh morning and the Cookie was preparing to go 
 to the little village church where her good kind 
 
JOYS AND SORROWS OF A DETACHED COOKIE. 79 
 
 father had been christened and confirmed and she 
 entered the building with mingled feelings, while 
 the three bells overhead were ringing. 
 
 One of the bells was new and being rung for 
 the first time and dedication services were held that 
 morning. 
 
 In the afternoon an open air festival took place 
 in which an account of the history of the church 
 was read from a window of the school-house to the 
 listeners below. 
 
 The Cookie was suddenly surprised to hear her 
 father's name mentioned. He had made the church 
 a considerable present some time before his death 
 and this was here recorded together with a eulogy 
 of him which the speaker ended by saying "We 
 all in our thoughts lay a wreath on his grave." 
 She was both touched and pleased at this, that she 
 should have arrived for a day which seemed al- 
 most prepared for her and yet her presence only 
 became known afterward when everyone crowded 
 around to shake hands with a daughter of the man 
 who lived in their memories. 
 
 A few days later she was raking hay in the 
 meadows to the astonishment of the surrounding 
 people who thought "Die Amerikanerin" too fine 
 for such work. She also had a hand in forming 
 sheaves of wheat to be bound, but the best of it all 
 was the ride home on top of the wagon, watching 
 
80 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 a beautiful sunset, or the large August moon hang- 
 ing low in the sky. 
 
 There was one fear however, that could mar 
 her pleasure and that was of cows. When these 
 appeared, she fled in terror quite often clinging to 
 the coat-tails of her farmer cousin, screaming, while 
 he held his sides with laughter. 
 
 In the evening, when at a certain hour, the 
 cattle were led to the well, and came along running 
 and jumping at a lively rate, the Cookie would sit 
 behind closed doors and could not be persuaded 
 into her evening walk until every bouncing cow 
 had vanished from the horizon. 
 
 Enjoyable drives were also taken and a 
 mountain was visited on foot and the interesting 
 ruins were viewed, from the dungeons, which were 
 reached by descending a long ladder, to the watch 
 tower from where an extensive view was enjoyed. 
 Sometimes the people seemed little more than mov- 
 ing dots and the trains scurrying through the valley 
 beneath, a despatch from midget land. 
 
 The Rheinfalls, not far from Schaffhausen, 
 were also visited and the illumination enjoyed from 
 the very best point of view, a little castle opposite 
 the picturesque falls. The lovely moonlight walks 
 home added to the charm of the evening. 
 
 What fun it was, too, to go bathing in the 
 Rhine. There was one particular spot from where 
 
JOYS AND SORROWS OF A DETACHED COOKIE. Ol 
 
 the woods opposite gave back prolonged echoes. 
 Whole sentences came back over the water and one 
 did not tire of calling. Laughter especially rang 
 loud and clear, until it seemed as if a living being 
 were in that woods responding in mockery. 
 
 The second week, a trip to Zurich, a pretty 
 city was taken and a never to be forgotten evening 
 spent rowing on the beautiful lake. 
 
 The Cookie and her aunt left Zurich for Glarus 
 and Ennenda, a most romantic region. Never be- 
 fore had the mountains seemed so high and only 
 the sky directly overhead was perceptible. 
 
 It was a clear starry night and they sat at the 
 open window looking up to the indescribable high 
 wall of mountains on one side and to the other 
 where shone the quiet waters of a beautiful lake. 
 
 The host and his wife were at the station and 
 escorted them to their neat little home where, al- 
 though they protested and the hour was rather late, 
 they were made to partake of a little repast. The 
 milk, eggs and butter were deliciously fresh and the 
 rich pure honey was from the wild flowers of the 
 mountains. 
 
 At last they retired and soon the dead quiet of 
 the night had lulled them to peaceful slumber. 
 
 A melodious ringing of bells awoke the Cookie 
 next morning and going to the window she saw a 
 large number of mountain goats passing by beneath, 
 
 6 
 
82 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 each with a bell around its neck. This window also 
 afforded a magnificent view of the mountains within 
 close range, which later in the day, to the disap- 
 pointment of all, were enveloped in a mist. 
 
 The morning was spent in an interesting walk, 
 but by noon, alas, it rained and still continued when 
 the Cookie and her aunt took leave of the good people. 
 Had the ride been a continuous one, the rain would 
 not have troubled them, but they were obliged to 
 change at four different stations to make connec- 
 tions and each time the rain beat down without 
 mercy but they did not lose heart and consoled them- 
 selves with the old German adage "Kein Reisen 
 ohne Ungemach." 
 
 While stopping at one of the stations their at- 
 tention was attracted by the curious calls outside. 
 Almost everyone seemed to be exclaiming "ou ou" 
 and looking out to see who did the pinching they 
 were amused to see the name of the station which 
 consisted of but two letters, Au. 
 
 It was rather late when Schaffhausen was 
 reached and it was decided to go on to the station 
 nearest to the village and there go to the hotel in- 
 stead of hiring a carriage to ride out. In fact they 
 they could not secure any as they were told it was 
 a dangerous road for horses by night. Then too, 
 there was a dark woods to pass and farther on 
 across the Rhine was an old convent now used as 
 
JOYS AND SORROWS OF A DETACHED COO KIE. 83 
 
 an insane asylum and in the dead of the night un- 
 earthly cries and shrieks of its mad inmates could 
 be heard from over the water. 
 
 Under these circumstances they were quite 
 satisfied to stay where they were and start for home 
 next morning. 
 
 When they awoke the sun was shining brightly 
 and hastily arising they prepared to depart. It was 
 Sunday and just as they were descending the steps 
 toward the Rhine every bell in the town began to 
 ring with a meldious mingling of tones which were 
 wonderfully effective. 
 
 How different it was to return on this beauti- 
 ful Sabbath morn instead of by night. The birds 
 were warbling and everything looked fresh and 
 green from the preceding rain. 
 
 The woods were passed which consisted of fir 
 trees and not even the bright sun could penetrate 
 enough to dispel the darkness within. 
 
 The bells of the town had stopped ringing and 
 still there seemed to be an echo of them somewhere 
 ahead first faint and hesitating then louder and 
 clearer. As they stopped to listen they perceived on 
 the other side below the convent a number of cows 
 grazing on the green. It was from here where the 
 music issued, for as the cows moved about the 
 sounds started afresh and the water lent them a pe- 
 culiar charm. 
 
84 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 Each cow had around its neck a large bell which 
 responded with every movement and sounded like 
 the bells of a little chapel. 
 
 At last home was reached and there it was 
 learned that a cousin had been at the preceding 
 trains the day before and finding no one, imagined 
 his relatives had decided to prolong their stay. 
 
 Two weeks had now been passed and there was 
 only one more left. 
 
 The Cookie and the school-master's daughter, 
 a very attractive girl, had arranged a little farewell 
 concert at her father's home which was in the school- 
 building. The daughter played unusually well and 
 the duets were first tried with the piano. 
 
 Suddenly it occurred to her that downstairs 
 in the school-room of the assistant teacher was one 
 of those sweet-toned harmoniums belonging to him. 
 
 "Wait a moment" she said "I will take a peep 
 to see if he is gone and then we will go down and 
 play "Traumerei" which sounds beautiful on that 
 little organ." After a few moments she came back 
 smiling and said "the way is clear, he is gone for 
 today and will never know the difference." 
 
 The Cookie shouldered her gun, or rather her 
 violin and together they descended the stairs. 
 
 They were disappointed to find the harmonium 
 locked but the young girl remembered that she had 
 
JOYS AND SORROWS OF A DETACHED COOKIE. 85 
 
 seen him put the key in the cabinet. This was found 
 unlocked and a moment later she was triumphantly 
 swinging the key saying, "he need not think he can 
 hide anything from me." There was even a violin 
 stand near by which the Cookie pulled out and ar- 
 ranged her music on it after both had agreed it was 
 strong enough to hold iron. 
 
 Everything ready, the music began. The 
 sweet tones of the harmonium mingled with the 
 strains of the school-master's old violin so well, 
 that when the piece was finished the young girl's 
 pretty face was beaming with pleasure and clapping 
 her hands she exclaimed, "Oh, let us play it again !" 
 The Cookie was willing and once more "Traumerei" 
 floated on the air. 
 
 About in the middle of the piece the Cookie 
 was dimly aware of some one entering the room 
 and suddenly stopping. It flashed through her 
 mind whether it might be the teacher, but not daring 
 to look aside played bravely on, although the notes 
 began jumping around and chasing each other. 
 
 When the piece was finished she looked up 
 and met the eyes of a young man who was smiling 
 down on two culprits. The other girl, her face 
 suffused with blushes, began to explain and beg 
 pardon but he interrupted. "On the contrary", he 
 said, "I wish to apologize for disturbing and beg 
 your permission to remain and listen to more music 
 
86 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 while I do some copying." Both graciously gave 
 their consent and the young man evidently enjoyed 
 the rehearsal for he listened more than he copied. 
 
 The little concert in the evening came off 
 smoothly and the Cookie regretfully wended her 
 steps homeward with a farewell look at the old 
 church and the school-house. Of course there were 
 no electric lights or street lamps to light them home 
 but they had a lantern and under cousin Fred's 
 guidance, who was also carefully carrying a pot of 
 honey of the schoolmaster's bees, they reached home 
 safely and the Cookie could not refrain from a 
 sigh of relief when they passed the well, to think 
 that every cow was in bed. 
 
 At last the farewell day came and soon they 
 were steaming away towards Vevey to visit another 
 relative before joining a Cook's Party at Geneva. 
 
 Up to this time they had been very much at 
 home in the language but already after noon the 
 passengers coming in spoke in a strange tongue, 
 and they began to feel uneasy among all their 
 French surroundings. 
 
 Towards evening the scenery became moun- 
 tainous and the beautiful Lake of Geneva appeared, 
 its blue waters dotted with a number of white 
 specks which afterwards proved to be swans and 
 water-birds. 
 
JOYS AND SORROWS OF A DETACHED COOKIE. 87 
 
 At the station they were at first rather puzzled 
 as aunt had not seen her brother for a number of 
 years and was not sure of recognizing him. 
 
 She went to the upper end of the platform in 
 search when the Cookie espied a gentleman with 
 two young girls eyeing her curiously, and she al- 
 most felt that it must be her uncle but she started 
 for her aunt who was just returning when the man, 
 seeing her too, uttered an exclamation of joy and 
 folding her in his arms kissed her and also greeted 
 his newly found niece. 
 
 All proceeded to the home which was but a 
 few steps from the lake. At the door they were 
 met by a woman who also kissed them affectionately 
 but began speaking in French. 
 
 "Does your wife speak German" inquired the 
 Cookie of her uncle, but he shook his head and when 
 she asked "non parlevous francaise?" they also 
 shook their heads at which she threw up her hands 
 in consternation. 
 
 It appeared that the girls had only learned 
 their mother-tongue which was something entirely 
 unexpected, but what was to be done. All sat down 
 to supper laughing in spite of their disappointment. 
 It was a learned table at which, German, English, 
 French and Italian were spoken, which now and 
 then were understood. 
 
88 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 Next day it was worse for when uncle had gone 
 to work, there was no one to interpret, but even with 
 him around there was sometimes a hopeless tangle, 
 for to answer women's queries in two different 
 languages was no easy task and he quite often be- 
 came confused and answered his wife in German, 
 while to his German relatives he would earnestly 
 explain in French and would not become aware of 
 his mistake until everyone was laughing heartily. 
 
 As before mentioned, when he was gone there 
 would be other difficulties. The Cookie, going to 
 her French aunt would begin, "ma chere tante" then 
 go on in German, repeat in English and still un- 
 successful call for her other aunt to interpret in 
 Italian which sometimes threw a gleam of intelli- 
 gence when Auntie French would go away laughing 
 and return with the desired article. Before going 
 away they were getting along much better and each 
 had learned a little of the other's language. 
 
 On the evening of the first day a stroll was 
 taken along the lake and a wonderful exhibition of 
 tight-rope walking witnessed the like of which they 
 had never seen before. 
 
 Among other difficult things done such as 
 rope-dancing etc., was walking on a rope suspended 
 high in the air, one end of which was fastened to 
 the roof of one of the large hotels opposite, and 
 the other end almost as high. 
 
JOYS AND SORROWS OF A DETACHED COOKIE. 89 
 
 Everyone held his breath looking, when quick 
 as a flash, the man's feet came down and a cry of 
 horror went up from the thousands watching below 
 but he was only sitting on the rope and had done 
 this purposely but it had the desired effect, for on 
 the first instant it looked as if he had made a mis- 
 step. 
 
 With indescribable surety he raised himself to 
 go on accompanied by a storm of applause. 
 
 The weather, while at Vevey, was all that could 
 be desired and little excursions were taken on the 
 lake and vicinity. 
 
 Montreux and the interesting Castle of Chil- 
 lon, whose dungeons and their illustrious prisoner 
 have been immortalized by Byron, were visited, and 
 on another day a trip up a mountain among the 
 wildest and most romantic scenery. 
 
 There was one member of the family the Cookie 
 was yet to see and that was her cousin Ernst. He 
 was staying in another city but was coming to see 
 his relatives. 
 
 On an afternoon, coming in from a walk, she 
 saw a fair-haired young man advance toward her in 
 the hall. She took one of his outstretched hands 
 inquiring, "Cousin Ernst?" 
 
 He nodded and her next query was "Sprichst 
 du Deutsch?" He shook his head, "Italiano?" an- 
 other shake, then becoming alarmed, "but you sure- 
 
90 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 ly speak English?" The answer was again in the 
 negative, and she turned away in despair while the 
 young man's face was full of regret. 
 
 They were sitting in a room looking at each oth- 
 er helplessly, when an idea struck the Cookie. Going 
 out she returned with a book of the tour and pic- 
 tures of the places she had visited and beckoned 
 to him. 
 
 He took a seat beside her and she went on to 
 mention the places corresponding with the pictures. 
 He became quite interested and when his father 
 entered, remarked with shining eyes that his cousin 
 had had a grand trip. 
 
 In the evening a walk was arranged, of course 
 to the lake and the Cookie saw a sunset of inde- 
 scribable beauty. The heavens were tinged a lovely 
 pink which imparted their shade to the water, while 
 the other half, on turning around, was a beautiful 
 blue, and the mountains opposite were of a purplish 
 hue. She could only exclaim "how beautiful," 
 while her cousin echoed the same in French. 
 
 Later on the moon arose and sitting in a garden 
 by the lake she thoroughly enjoyed the evening and 
 the walk home. 
 
 Next morning she had a row on the lake whose 
 waters looked prettier than ever. She was trying 
 to impress on her mind that the strange young man 
 opposite was really her cousin and her father's 
 
JOYS AND SORROWS OF A DETACHED COOKIE. Cjl 
 
 brother's child, yet their only vocabulary consisted 
 of little more than a dozen French words she had 
 gathered and about as many German words at his 
 command. Still they spent an enjoyable morning 
 and filled the pauses in conversation by splashing 
 water at each other. 
 
 The day was now coming when the Cookie 
 again had to take leave to join the party. Her 
 aunt was to meet her in Paris ten days later, in the 
 meantime staying at Vevey. 
 
 She left this delightful place in company with 
 her cousin Ernst and Alice, who accompanied her to 
 Lausanne, where she was to take the train for Gen- 
 eva. After a walk through the town she was taken 
 to the station and kissing her pretty French cousin 
 Alice goodbye, followed Ernst into the train, where 
 she was made comfortable, then taking her face in 
 both hands he looked at her long, then kissed her 
 saying "bon voyage, ma chere cousine" and dis- 
 appeared looking rather sad. 
 
 She was not feeling very cheerful herself, leav- 
 ing the only people she knew in that part of Switzer- 
 land and going to meet entire strangers. 
 
 Towards evening Geneva was reached and 
 gathering up her belongings she alighted and fol- 
 lowed the crowd. 
 
 When she came to where the hotel busses stood 
 in waiting she made a careful scrutiny of them and 
 
92 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 discovered at the end of the line her man, with the 
 name of the hotel to which she was going, on his 
 cap. 
 
 With a sigh of relief she gave him her baggage 
 and climbed in and soon they were in their way to 
 the hotel. Here she was shown to her room from 
 which she could see Lake Geneva. 
 
 When she afterward went down to dinner it 
 was with a little uneasiness as to how she would 
 find the people she was to join. 
 
 A waiter directed her to where they were din- 
 ing and as she advanced with rather hesitating step, 
 she was agreeably surprised in recognizing in the 
 conductor, the local guide who had directed their 
 sight-seeing in London and from whom they had 
 parted regretfully at the time. 
 
 In her joy she hastened to him and taking his 
 hand told him how glad she was to see him. He 
 then remembered her and introduced her to the 
 company who gave her a cordial welcome. 
 
 By this time the Cookie's heart was as light as 
 a feather and when after the meal she went out with 
 some to look at the stores which were very attract- 
 ive she felt as if she had been with them longer. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 TOUR THIRTY-FOUR IN GENEVA AND 
 PARIS. 
 
 unday morning dawned beautifully in Gen- 
 eva and some of us went to the English 
 Church which was crowded with tourists. 
 On the way out we met the guide, who had also 
 been there, and who pointed out a few things of 
 interest to us, among others the very spot where 
 Empress Elizabeth was assassinated, after stepping 
 from the hotel opposite. 
 
 We were to have two days in Geneva but it had 
 been decided all agreeing to leave next day so as to 
 have one more day in Paris. 
 
 In the afternoon we had a most enjoyable car- 
 riage drive through the place visiting the Cathedral 
 which is Protestant and in which Calvin preached. 
 His chair was shown to us and we all took turns 
 sitting in the stiff-backed chair of that worthy 
 man. We also saw his grave in the cemetery. 
 
 Next we stopped at the Russian Church, an odd 
 structure and looking very new, with some exquisite 
 paintings. There was not even a chair or bench, 
 
94 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 the congregation kneeling during the service. Near 
 here is the prison cell of the assassinator of the 
 Empress before mentioned. 
 
 It has no windows and not a ray of light pene- 
 trates to this wretch of whom it is said he has be- 
 come insane. We could not repress a shudder as 
 we viewed the gloomy wall. 
 
 Geneva is a very pretty city and has some 
 handsome buildings facing the river and the lake. 
 The Rhone River whose water is very blue and 
 swift divides Geneva in two parts. We saw the 
 meeting of the waters, where this river and another, 
 the water of which is a muddy looking color unite, 
 but it was interesting to note that for some distance 
 ahead the colors would not mix but flowed side by 
 side a river of blue and gray. 
 
 Later on we had a beautiful view of the mag- 
 nificent Mt. Blanc, with its perpetual snow and ice. 
 
 In the evening we took a walk listening to the 
 music which prevailed everywhere and wound up 
 by stopping in the pretty garden bordering on the 
 lake and opposite our hotel, where there was un- 
 usually good music, which was still playing after 
 we had retired and lulled us into pleasant dreams. 
 
 Next morning there was but one thought occu- 
 pying all minds, — going to Paris ! 
 
 Full of expectation we looked forward to ar- 
 
TOUR THIRTY-FOUR IN GENEVA AND PARIS. 95 
 
 rival there, but a whole day's journey was yet before 
 us. 
 
 At first we had reserved compartments and 
 agreeably whiled our time away playing games and 
 holding comb concerts to which our guide laugh- 
 ingly shook his head. 
 
 Later on French people began crowding in 
 regardless of our comfort and our rights and this 
 became even worse after we had changed at Dijon. 
 
 There was a perfect rush for the train which 
 became overcrowded and as our guide could not 
 secure a compartment for us we were scattered 
 among the others. 
 
 Most of the passengers were French and our 
 conductor had trouble in securing seats for us, as 
 they did not seem a bit accommodating, which can 
 be said of French travel in general. 
 
 Our guide was just returning and taking up my 
 suit-case he hurried off telling me to follow. Every 
 compartment was practically overcrowded. At last 
 we came to one where there seemed a vacant seat. 
 
 Seven Frenchmen occupied the others and with 
 these our guide began to parley in French for the 
 remaining one. They declared it occupied and 
 when he seemed to doubt, the seven began talking 
 at once and gesticulating wildly at our guide who 
 remained composed. I was standing in the midst 
 of them, but taking up my suit-case which was de- 
 
g6 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 cidedly heavy, I dropped it, (seemingly accidental) 
 on the toes of one of the Frenchmen who quickly 
 pulled them toward him. Having thus cleared my 
 way I walked out telling the guide not to exhort 
 with them further as I would not sit with such ex- 
 citable fellows. 
 
 Just then a man of our tour came along and 
 said "leave this girl to me, I have a seat for her". 
 
 With a sigh of relief I followed him to a com- 
 partment where the people willingly made room for 
 us and we soon forgot our troubles in interested 
 conversation. 
 
 At last supper was served but there were such 
 great crowds that ours was not served until nine 
 o'clock and when all the tables were occupied the 
 doors were locked to keep the others back. 
 
 We were quite glad when we reached Paris, 
 but at the station there was more excitement and 
 crowding and my companion and I were separated 
 from the party which was nowhere to be seen. 
 They had been pushed along to the other end of the 
 station where they discovered we were missing. 
 
 My benefactor at last put down our baggage 
 asking me to stand by it while he went on the hunt. 
 He had hardly gone when the Doctor of our party 
 came hurriedly along and when I called to him 
 seemed relieved. "Where is Mr. K." he asked. 
 "Looking for the rest of you", I answered. There 
 
TOUR THIRTY-FOUR IN GENEVA AND PARIS. 97 
 
 was nothing left to do but go for him and as I 
 noted the direction we soon came across him, as the 
 station was by this time well cleared. 
 
 When at last we reached the meeting-place all 
 were there but the guide who was still looking, but 
 he too, was soon found and we filed into the bus 
 laughing over the incident. 
 
 It was half past eleven when we arrived at the 
 hotel quite tired. There was so much noise and 
 bustle in the streets as if in midday and this seemed 
 to continue all night, some of us even being forced 
 to change our rooms in order to get some sleep. 
 
 What shall I say about Paris? I must confess 
 I am not enthusiastic over it and am afraid my de- 
 scription will fall flat. 'Tis true, Paris is beautiful 
 in a way, the streets for instance and the squares. 
 
 Place de la Concorde marks the spot where 
 Marie Antoinette and Louis XVI were beheaded. 
 
 The place which marks the Palace of the 
 Tuileries is now a beautiful flower garden and a 
 delightful promenade in summer. 
 
 Paris seemed at its best to me when viewed 
 from my high seat in our tally-ho sort of conveyance 
 which picked us up at the hotel every morning. 
 It was decidedly enjoyable to view Paris from a 
 safe place out of all that terrible tangle of vehicles, 
 busses, automobiles, electric cars etc., for broad as 
 
 7 
 
0,8 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 the streets were, they were always crowded with the 
 aforesaid things. 
 
 There is so much to see in Paris that it bewil- 
 ders one and a week is hardly enough to gain a fair 
 insight into all that might be interesting, but the 
 main things satisfied us. 
 
 Some few of us had allowed ourselves a visit 
 to the Opera, which was well worth it, if only for 
 the interior. We admired the magnificent stair- 
 case of white marble and the promenade around the 
 top where the people spend the time between the 
 acts walking or looking at Paris from the balconies. 
 
 Paris has a number of triumphal arches, the 
 main one being the noble Arch of Triumph. 
 
 Of course we visited Napoleon's tomb and saw 
 the inscription from his last will and did not fail to 
 visit Notre Dame and the Madeleine, the most 
 beautiful edifice in Paris. 
 
 Right behind the Notre Dame is the Morgue in 
 which we viewed the bodies of two men resting 
 behind a glass partition. They had been found in 
 the Seine River which runs through Paris, but did 
 not look gruesome as some of us had thought, for 
 they were remarkably well preserved. 
 
 Of cemeteries we visited the Pere-la-Chaise and 
 viewed the tomb of President Faure and of Heloise 
 and Abelard, the monk and nun who broke their 
 
TOUR THIRTY-FOUR IN GENEVA AND PARIS. 99 
 
 vows for the love of each other. On the day of 
 our visit there were flowers in nosegays and wreaths 
 fastened on the fence surrounding the place or ly- 
 ing inside, and it was told us that it was the custom 
 of people suffering from unrequited love to visit 
 this place secretly, putting the flowers there. 
 
 In a Jewish cemetery we saw the tombs of 
 Rachel and the Rothschilds. 
 
 On a lovely morning we took an excursion to 
 Versailles. It was a most delightful drive especially 
 through the woods and park of Versailles. 
 
 We went through the palace built by Louis 
 XIV and the decorated gardens. The palace con- 
 tained much of interest and gave one an idea of 
 Louis XIV elaborate notions. 
 
 From the steps in front of the palace one has a 
 fine view of the Grand Canal and the Basin of 
 Apollo. It was here that Louis XIV gave his 
 Venetian festivals, famous in history. 
 
 It is a grand sight to see the fountains play, 
 which happens once a month and on Sunday after- 
 noons. 
 
 Our excursion took us a whole day and we 
 arrived at the hotel in the evening tired but happy. 
 
 The regular programme being over, the gentler 
 sex of our party went shopping. The two main 
 stores seem to be the Bon Marche and the Louvre 
 
IOO MY TRIP RO EUROPE. 
 
 Bazaar. The latter was opposite our hotel. The 
 celebrated Louvre Picture Gallery which we had 
 also gone through was within a square of our abode. 
 
 The stores proved rather a disappointment to 
 us, as did various things in Paris. We had ex- 
 pected to wander in a perfect wonderland of beauty, 
 but at the end of the first evening the girls all agreed 
 that the stores were "shoppy looking". We did 
 see pretty things at reasonable prices but they were 
 not displayed to any advantage. Very few of the 
 salespeople understood us which made our shopping 
 rather difficult. In no other place in Europe did 
 we have such trouble in making ourselves under- 
 stood as in Paris. At the hotel the manager, the 
 elevator boy and a waiter or two seemed to be the 
 only ones who spoke English. 
 
 As for the servants, they were practically use- 
 less and would bring the wrong thing every time, 
 unless one went to the office and had his wants 
 written in French to give to them. 
 
 Our week in Paris was coming to an end. 
 
 During the whole week we had the most perfect 
 weather and Sunday morning dawned cheerful 
 enough, but in the afternoon the sky became gloomy 
 and overcast. Still no one thought it would amount 
 to much and a few started out for Versailles to see 
 the fountains play. It was not until we had arrived 
 
TOUR THIRTY-FOUR IN GENEVA AND PARIS. IOI 
 
 out there that it began to rain and kept steadily in- 
 creasing until we were obliged to seek shelter. 
 
 There were immense crowds there patiently 
 waiting in the rain, which, however, increased to 
 such fury that umbrellas were no protection and 
 large numbers began to flee for the station. 
 
 We felt as if the fountains were on top of us, 
 so heavy was the downpour. The streets looked 
 like small rivers while the water from the awnings 
 came down in sheets. 
 
 The people in the houses and under shelter 
 scoffed and laughed at those given to the mercy of 
 the element. Some indeed presented an odd sight 
 and many a fluffy airy dress and milliner's dream 
 had its last day on this occasion. 
 
 When at last we arrived at the hotel, we were 
 drenched entirely and looked as if we had been 
 pulled out of the Seine River. 
 
 The remainder of our party were quite uneasy 
 about us and felt sincerely sorry for our misfortune 
 but once in dry clothes we felt better. 
 
 Next day we left Paris, everyone satisfied to go. 
 We travelled via Dieppe and New Haven to London 
 and stayed at the same hotel in which we had spent 
 our first week on arrival there. 
 
 We enjoyed coming back to it and received de- 
 lightful rooms. 
 
J02 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 The following day we left for Oxford, visiting 
 the University buildings, and proceeded by later 
 train to Warwick and Stratford on Avon. There 
 we went through Shakespeare's house and visited 
 his tomb and memorial. Returning to Warwick, 
 we took the train for Chester arriving that night. 
 
 Our parly had by this time dwindled down 
 somewhat, a few dropping off at Paris and London 
 and we only needed one compartment and had it 
 all to ourselves. We again indulged in comb con- 
 certs and games and enjoyed ourselves especially 
 well the day we travelled towards Chester. 
 
 While playing games I ventured the question 
 (trying to appear earnest,) "have any of you ever 
 tried starting electricity by holding hands?" "Why 
 no, can you?" they all exclaimed interested. 
 
 "I have done it," I replied. "Now all take 
 hands and those sitting by the window put one hand 
 on the glass." They all complied very unsuspect- 
 ingly, all firmly believing in my electrical power. 
 
 Hardly able to look serious any longer I turned 
 to the two sitting opposite each other with their 
 hands on the window and asked "do you feel the 
 pain? (pane). The result was a storm of merri- 
 ment. No one had even suspected a joke and de- 
 clared it a successful one. 
 
 Towards evening the train became deserted 
 looking- and as there was a side hall in our car con- 
 
I NEVA AND PARIS. 103 
 
 necting the different compartments, we began to 
 spread out a little. 
 
 One compartment was transformed into a 
 smoker, a second for resting but, alas, both proved a 
 failure. Our conductor had hardly settled down 
 with his cigar and book and a neat little cap on his 
 head, when the tease of our party, a young girl who 
 could let no one alone, but whom everybody liked. 
 entered and immediately began asking numb 
 questions about what she already knew and seemed 
 thoroughly delighted when she saw him gr< 
 impatient and irritated. 
 
 ie three of us had made ourselves comfort- 
 able in the adjoining compartment, with our h 
 back against the cushions and our ej es cl< >sed when 
 one of the men crouching the floor suddenly 
 
 pounced in our door-way with a regular war-whoop 
 and of course we all jumped. 
 
 This called for r< and we followed him 
 
 into the tirsi tment where a boxing match 
 
 took place in which nearly everybody took part. 
 
 When we arriv* hester that nighl 
 
 were quite satisfied with the wind-up of our trip, 
 for the followi we were to board the steamer 
 
 for America. 
 
 At the hotel we I an excellent supper 
 
 and a good I est and left by morning train 
 
104 MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 for Liverpool where we embarked on the steamer 
 for Philadelphia. 
 
 There were only five of the tour going back 
 and when the ship began to move, we waved our 
 handkerchiefs vigorously at our conductor and one 
 of the gentlemen who was returning by a later. 
 steamer and was alternately throwing kisses and 
 demonstrating his sorrow at parting by wiping his 
 eyes and wringing out his handkerchief. 
 
 The voyage was rather a rough one. Already 
 the second day the waves dashed over the deck and 
 the Ocean was one seething boiling ma; 
 
 Xo one could be on deck, but those few who 
 still felt good enough to enjoy most anything, had 
 collected at the door-way in the hall to watch the 
 Ocean which was strangely fascinating. 
 
 Suddenly and unexpected a large wave thun- 
 dered over the deck and part of it in the door on the 
 little observant crowd. There was an immediate 
 scramble but row number one was completely 
 drenched and there was nothing left to do but to 
 change apparel. Then this door, the only one that 
 had been left open, was also closed and we had to be 
 satisfied looking through the port-holes. 
 
 Sometimes the ship rocked frightfully. Then 
 the dishes would jump and upset, despite the fact 
 that they were "fenced in" and people would sud- 
 
' THIRTY- FOUR IN GENEVA AND PARIS. IO5 
 
 denly come running along at a frantic pace, demure 
 young maidens rush into strange men's arms, unable 
 to hold themselves, and people at the top of the 
 stairs would come to the bottom in a great hurry. 
 
 The people on deck, if their chairs were not 
 securely tied, would start on a sliding expedition 
 and get tangled with those pacing the deck, and the 
 old ship, regardless of it all would keep on bobbing. 
 
 It became an acrobatic -feat for those occupying 
 an upper berth to reach their cradles at night and 
 descend in safety in the morning, and until one was 
 dressed ! With every roll of the boat a forced trip 
 had to be taken across the room and those weakened 
 by sea-sickness were simply thrown in a heap. 
 
 The humorous side of all this appealed very 
 much to those well and feeling good but there were 
 a great many the other way who dreaded each in- 
 crease of the breeze. 
 
 We also had frequent heavy fogs and the horn 
 would sound especially dismal at night with the 
 wind howling in the rigging and flapping the canvas, 
 while the sleepers were thrown from side to side 
 in their berths and the whole ship creaked. 
 
 But there came a fine day and we had a few of 
 them, too, when dear old Philadelphia loomed into 
 view and welcomed the home-comers with great 
 joy, only Uncle Sam came along with a puckered 
 
IOb MY TRIP TO EUROPE. 
 
 brow saying "Howdye, what have you brought from 
 over the pond ? Open up and let's have some of the 
 percentage," but those who had not overstepped the 
 bounds he graciously dismissed. 
 
 And now, dear reader, I have but little more 
 to say. If I have tired you with this wandering 
 account, I crave your pardon, if on the other hand 
 you have derived even a little pleasure from it I 
 feel repaid for my work and as a parting word for 
 the land which stands out above all other lands and 
 is the best and only place to come back to, I bid you 
 farewell with a wave of the flag and 
 
 THREE CHEERS 
 
 FOR 
 
 AMERICA ! ! ! 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Chapter I. 
 
 Departure and Arrival. England 5 
 
 Chapter II. 
 
 Belgium, Holland, and Germany 23 
 
 Chapter III. 
 
 Vienna and Italy 44 
 
 Chapter IV. 
 
 Switzerland 68 
 
 Chapter V. 
 
 The Joys and Sorrows of a Detached Cookie 76 
 
 ' I \PTER VI. 
 
 Thirty-four in Geneva and Paris 93 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 Westminster Abbey, London 13 
 
 The Historic Mill, Potsdam 43 
 
 The Rialto, Venice 50 
 
 Grand Hotel, Menaggio 65 
 
 The Grindelwald Glacier 72 
 
 The Promenade, Vevey 87 
 
I 
 
IMnSSLSF CONGRESS! 
 
 020 715 049" 6