TT985 H^^ '^ '^O. ■■V ^ .^^ ' - - ' . > ^. o » » " .0 v-'^ - . . > V ' ^^ 'oK "^0^ v^^'*° ^^'^'"V^ %;■•.-. ■ ^^v ^^_^ -:v7J=:v' < * * aN <-, ,'^ , . - --^- ' (X> Vv^. '^^, V V^ ^yi^'^ ^^ -^f^ .vO' . V :^ ^ ' . . '• < > ^- ^-n^ ^ A V ' " O AT ;^ -bv^ ^ . 'K<. ^^ /^V/k^ >. .c,'?:" *^ i". "-^„.^** :'^- %.^^ :'Mm^ "-^„.^^* /Jfe'v %.s .V -3^"o o .H q^ > 'Z'' 4U^jiAud *rice Fifty Cents ll - ''Tou and Your J^ndry " by Mrs. Christine Frederick II Household Efficiency Expert; Author "The New Housekeeping", "Household Engineering"; Director Applecroft Experiment Station Greenlawn, Long Island i: 1 i 1 1 I 1 ^ Written and Designed Expressly for THE HURLEY MACHINE CO. NEW YORK CHICAGO TORONTO CopyriKht. \')22. by Hurley Machine Co. t .. — ■ ■ .. 1 Thor 32— The last word in clolhes'ivashing efficiency. ^r CHAPTER I Why Friction and Washboard Methods Are Out of Date f HE first cleaning of clothing by a wet or washing method was done in the running water of a river. The women of primitive peoples carried their soiled garments to the edge of a stream, and either held or fastened them down with a rock while they allowed the action of the water to wash out the dirt. Then the women gradually discovered that laying the clothing on a smooth stone, and pounding with another rock or flat stick seemed to remove the dirt more easily. The next step was to build out into the river a sloping, narrow platform, and rub the wash on this wooden surface. Soon they made grooves or ridges in these platforms, and thus was evolved the modern popular "wash- board" — which to-day is as much of a discarded antique as tallow dips and warming pans ! All of these early and traditional methods were based on the idea of friction, either by rubbing the pieces on a board or pounding them with some form of paddle. This rub-a-dub-dub method persisted for centuries, not because it was the best way to remove soil from clothing, but because no one, until recent times, studied to find some new and more efficient washing principles. Just as for thousands of years people cooked their food by hold- ing it on a stick over a bed of hot coals, because more advanced methods of using an iron range or an electric grill had not been dis- covered, so too, women ever^'where have followed the old drudgery washboard- friction habit of washing because the wonderful, labor- saving methods of machine washing were not yet perfected. There were several steps in the development of successful machine washing, such as is now made possible by the THOR cylinder washer. The first was the discovery that water itself has solvent power, and that by adding to it certain substances, this power, especially over dirt and grease, is still more effective. Primitive housekeepers added wood ashes to the wash water, but found that while this lye "cut" the dirt, it was too hard on the clothes. To lessen such bad effects, they combined lye with fat — and thus originated modern soap. The second step was a clearer understanding of textiles and of the way in which dirt and grease are absorbed and retained by the various fibres of which textiles are made. Under the microscope cotton and linen appear like strings or ribbons of cells, while wool shows as overlapping fish-scales, which are found to expand when [3] wet and which if rubbed while wet or subjected to hot water, at once interlock, thus shortening the fibre and resulting in what we call "shrinkage." Now what we call "soil" in clothing is insoluble particles of dirt laid suspended ann)nii these fibres by the waste oil given off constantly by the human skin. This oil, or grease, must be ''cut" or attacked so that the dirt particles may be set free from the fibres and carried away in the wash water. In other words, it is necessary to be convinced that to success- fully cleanse clothing we must use those methods which will most effec- tively dissolve grease, and thus permit the dirt to fall away from between the fibres of the clothing. Modern science has proved to us that such methods are purely chemical reactions —and that grease is best removed, not by rubbing, but by treating it with those substances which have been found to literally dissolve it and change it into other forms. All grease is combinations of fatty acids — and we must use the opposing chemical elements, or alkalis (such as washing soda, ammonia, borax, etc., or variations of them as found in soap), in the wash water in order to break up the grease and permit the real dirt to detach itself from the clothing. How You Can Get Rid of Hand Rubbing Every worker must understand this modern principle of the attacking of grease by chemical substances in solution, in order to see why machine washing is so effective. If she grasps this newer idea clearly, she will surely also see how futile, how useless, and wrong was the old-fashioned habit of rubbing by hand, using a wash- board, or even a machine based on pounding or friction. Would all the hand rubbing in the world remove an inkspot from a table-cover? No! But just add a few drops of the proper neutralizing agent and watch the stain instantly disappear, leaving the cloth spotless! Thus just as a few drops of the right chemical will remove a dis- figuring stain, so the judicious use of grease solvents like soap, borax, etc., when added to wash water in solution of the proper strength will accomplish a cleansing of the clothes which could not be equalled by hours of hand rubbing. Remember this illustration of the inkspot every time you or any person is led to remark that they "don't see how a machine will wash clothes without rubbing." Even when you did rub the clothes with a bar of soap on a washboard it was not the rubbing, but the alkali or other chemical agent released from the soap which really cleaned, and not the rub. When you used a cake of soap on the washboard you were obtaining only about 10 per cent, of the value of the soap as a cleanser; when you dissolve that soap and use it in a solution, or use a solution prepared with other chemical agents which attack grease, you secure their full 100 per cent, value in ''cut- ting" body soil and setting the dirt particles loose in the wash water. Further, remove from your mind any misconception as to the injurious effect of such solutions upon clothing when properly used, [4] \ or any idea that clothes washed in such a machine as the THOR after methods to be hereafter described, could possibly harm the most delicate articles. Can you not see that washing solutions, rightly made, which affect and break down grease in a few moments, are far less dangerous than the long continued rub-a-dub-rubhing of a washboard method? Such solutions attack the grease between the fibres; the washboard wears out the fibres themselves. Which do you prefer? A "cake of soap" does not enter into modern machine washing — all soap must be shaved, powdered, and dissolved with other agents in the wash water. But the last, and probably the most important step to success- ful machine washing is the principle of the cleansing power of water when applied with force, as brought to such mechanical perfection in the THOR cylinder machine. For a long time I myself could not understand how, even with a proper soap solution, the clothes could be washed clean. I saw the motor turning, I watched the cylinder revolve, I observed it reverse after each eight times around in one direction — but still I did not grasp this new principle of machine washing. Do you, too, still wonder how a washing machine drives out dirt? Imagine for a moment a dirty city pavement or street. Think of a street cleaner appearing with his hose, and see him attach it to a water supply. Watch him turn on the hose. Notice how, LUMINOID CYLINDER The double turned edges of tlie holes in Ihe Luminoid Cylinder are beaded, which absolutely prevents clothes from catching or tearing. [5] instantly, the grease and litter of the pavement flies before the onrush of the water stream as he plays it before him, leaving the pavement startlingly clean. But suppose that the water were shut up in a tight metal box or tub, and that instead of being thrown in only one direction, it was forced now forward, now down, now up again, in an endless change of position as it struck the sides of the tub. And that further, the tub was fitted with a perforated cylinder containing soiled clothes, and that, as the cylinder revolved within the tub, the water was forced through those countless holes, out, and back, and over. If you looked in the cylinder you would also see that at intervals along its sides were narrow bars or "lifters", and that as the cylinder went around, these bars caught up and "lifted" the clothes to the top, there to drop them back into the water of their own weight and with much force — but instantly "lifting" the next batch up and dropping it — over and again, as long as the cylinder revolved. And all the time, the warm and sudsy water is pouring in and over and through the clothes, impelled by the continuous, steady force exerted by the motor. Perhaps now you can see how clothes are washed clean in a THOR washer! Letting the Force of Water Clean Your Clothes The man with the hose played the water only a few moments on one spot — the wash water in a THOR machine strikes continu- ously back and forth and between the fibres of the clothes for the whole 10 to 15 minutes of the washing period; the street water was cold — in the washer it is warm and strong with the proper solutions; but most important, the THOR machine is so constructed as to give this wonderful and forceful "drop" — this cleansing power to the water as it "drops" the load from top to bottom of the cylinder at each revolution. The clothes are constantly in motion and the dirt is being forced from the fibres, yet there is no pounding device, no harmful "dolly", no "suction cups", to press or damage the finest lace. The THOR is the perfection of the new, modern principles of machine washing. If you can understand why a hose playing a moment on the street will remove grime and dirt, you will cer- tainly grasp the understanding of machine washing — how the con- tinuous, ever-revolving cylinder, reversing in its tub of agitated suds and with the power of each "drop" of the load, will wash soil out of textile fibres far more effectively and with less wear to the clothing than any hand rubbing or pounding device you could employ. Surely every modern woman must throw the old rub-a-dub practices out of her mind, just as she will throw the drudgery wash- [6] board out of her laundry ! No housekeeper today persists in roast- ing her Sunday dinner over a spit when she can buy an insulated oven, or in using a dirt-scattering corn broom when she can procure a dust-absorbing vacuum cleaner. So too, where is the housekeeper of this progressive year who will refuse to understand the new, slightly different, but still very simple principles which make machine washing a success? No. 32 THOR— Family Size. (Exhibition Machine with glass end to show action of clothes in cylinder.) [7] CHAPTER II How to Prepare and Use Soap Solutions for Machine Washing '^W.Sf' ^ WAS pointed out thai one of the most important steps in successful machine washing was the use of the right cleansing solutions. The worker operating a machine must lay aside the idea of using soap in cake or solid form, and realize that to get the maximum efficiency from soap it must be cut up and dissolved so that every particle blends with the wash water. All bar soap should be shaved or cut line, added to cold water, and brought slowly to boil until the liquid is clear and of an amber shade. Or powdered soap ground into minute particles may be pur- chased, which owing to its form, will save the labor of hand cutting and dissolve evenly and quickly. Possibly such powdered soap is the best of all for washing machine use; but it must not be confused with the common "washing powders" which contain not only soap, but varying amounts of other materials, resin, sand, etc. It is wisest and much more economical and safe not to buy these "powders", but to use the best grade of pure soap, and add at home the desired borax, soda or other grease-cutting substances. In this way the exact amount of such cleansers as required can be "built-in" to the soap solution, and the housewife be assured of purity, and more definite solutions for each different class of washing. If I were asked the one besetting sin of American housekeepers in the past, I believe I should say that it was the reckless and harm- ful misuse of washing soda! How often have we carelessly added a "handful of soda" to every tub or pail of water! Washing soda is the strongest alkali, and while it is excellent to soften very hard water, and to "cut" grease, it is injurious to wools, silks and colors, and should never be thrown into the wash water, but carefully measured and added when necessary to the dissolved soap solution, and the heating continued until all the soda crystals are also dis- solved. If the water is soft, there are other cleansers such as borax and ammonia, kerosene, etc., which are safer and which can be used on colored as well as white clothes. Borax and ammonia are also alkalis cutting grease and having mild bleaching properties. Borax is the safest, and Jj cup may be added to the rinse water of flannels to whiten them. If ammonia is used it should not be "household" ammonia, but the concentrated kind, purchased of a druggist, which may then be diluted with two or four parts of water as- needed. Turpentine, kerosene and paraffin are excellent when very, greasy colored clothes are washed, since they "cut" the grease without harming colors. For all flannels and colored goods only the purest white soap (containing no resin or free alkali) should be employed. A washing for a family of five requires 2 to 3 cakes of white soap. If you have hard water, soften it by adding borax only — a tablespoonful to each cylinder of clothes. Dissolve borax in water before adding to washing. 1 — Washing solution for General Washing (soft water) 1 cup powdered soap or 1 bar best white laundry soap 2 tablespoons borax 2 quarts water Dissolve shaved soap in hot water heated slowly, cool, and add borax. If powdered soap is used, mix to a thick cream with cold water, then add hot and dissolve perfectly. Use in proportion of one cup of solution to each load of clothes. This may be used safely on common flannels and on coarse colored goods, as kitchen aprons, men's shirts, etc. 2 — Washing Solution for Fine Flannels or Colored Goods 1 large bar best white soap 2 tablespoons borax 4 quarts water Dissolve soap in heated water, cool and add borax. Use in proportion of one cup of solution to each load of lightweight flannels, or double this strength for heavy blankets. (If purity of powdered soap is certain, make as in solution). 3 — Soap Bark Solution for Very Delicate Colors or Black Fabrics 4 cups "soap bark" (bought at druggist) 1 gallon of water Boil slowly twenty minutes, strain and use this emulsion in place of soap solution, rinsing well. 4 — Washing Solution for Very Greasy Colored Clothes Yi bar white laundry soap or about 3 ounces soap powder Yi cup turpentine 1 gallon lukewarm water Dissolve soap and add turpentine. Use in proportion of about yi cup of solution to each washing load as of greasy overalls, shirts, or colored fabrics affected with grease, paint, vaseline or varnish, washing in lukewarm water only. ^ 19] Hurley Soap Some years ago it was impossible to ol^lain granulated or pow- dered soap that could be relied upon. The Hurley Machine Com- pany has succeeded in bringing out a powdered soap which they unreservedly guarantee. The soap is composed of in- gredients, in just the right proportion, to obtain the maximum cleansing effi- ciency, and nothing that can in any way injure the fabric; linens, blankets, finest laces, are washed perfectly. Using the soap according to direc- tions enables you to obtain a uniform suds each washday, bringing your clothes always to the same degree of white- ness. _ Hurley Soap is ready for ^^^^^^^, -^ ^.^.^^ .,^ ^ ;^_ ^^^^^^ 25 lb. pails immediate use. No cutting - and 250 lb. barrels. up and boiling is necessary. Sprinkle in a few ounces on the revolving cylinder- that is all. In a very few minutes you have just the right suds. It saves you time and work. Hurley Soap is economical to use. There is no waste — because every particle contains lOO^o cleansing efficiency. Six ounces of Hurley Soap will do the work of three 9-ounce bars of laundry soap, or 18 ounces ordinary soap powder. CHAPTER m How to Remove Stains and Set Colors iiO MATTER whether clothing be washed by hand or machine, it is necessary to know how to remove stains and to prevent colored goods from fading or becoming disfigured. Stains on fabrics or garments should always be re- moved as soon as possible. The older a stain is the harder it "sets". A stain not only disfigures but is also likely to eat away the fibre of the cloth. Always treat stains before washing as the washwater is likely to "set" them so they are very difficult or impossible to remove. In removing stains, remember that acids injure vegetable fibres and alkalis injure animal fibres. Wherever possible, use water either hot or cold, and sometimes steam (from a tea-kettle spout). When an acid is used on cotton or linen goods, finish by rublDing with a weak solution of sodium acetate (or other mild alkali) to neutralize the acid and protect the fabric. Water spong- ing is not safe as it merely dilutes the acid. Stains are removed by three different types of action — depend- 101 ing upon the nature of the fabric and of the stain itself. These three ways are : 1 — Absorbing. 2 — Dissolving. 3 — Bleaching. An efficient housewife should have a complete collection of stain removers, carefully labeled, at hand, for prompt use. A glass medicine dropper is very con- venient for use in treating stains. Any druggist can be of help in making up a collection of stain removers. 1— TO USE ABSORBENTS Cover grease spots with powdered absorbents, such as talcum, fuller's earth, French chalk, starch or bolted meal and let stand for several hours. Brush carefully and repeat if needed. For dry blood or ink stains, starch paste is an excellent absorbent. Cover freshly spilled liquids with any of above powders or pieces of blotting paper to prevent the liquid from spreading and soaking into the fabric. Another method of absorbing stains is to lay the stained fabric on white blotting paper (or soft unglazed white paper) cover with absorbent powder or more paper, and apply a warm iron. Repeat, using fresh paper or powder until the stain is entirely removed. 2— TO USE SOLVENTS Water — Soak washable goods in cold water and wash with cold or tepid water and white soap. Use hot water in the same way or by stretching the stained goods over a bowl and pouring boiling water from a height. Note — Hot water sets some stains, such as blood, meat juice, milk and egg. Place non-washable materials over a pad of white cloth or absorbent paper — sponge, using very little water at a time. Change the pad as it becomes soiled or wet. Rub gently till dry. Caution — water spots some materials; experiment with a sample. Other solvents, such as alcohol, benzine, carbon tetra-chloride, chloroform, ether, gasoline and turpentine, can be used on materials that water will spot. Place the stained goods over a pad of cloth, apply the solvent, and work from the edge of the stain to the center. Change the under pad frequently. 3— TO USE BLEACHING AGENTS A number of short applications of dilute bleaches are safer than long applica- tions of strong bleaches. Always remember a bleach is likely to remove dye from colored fabrics. Sunlight, lemon juice, sour milk, borax, sulphur, oxalic acid, hy- drogen peroxide, potassium permanganate or Javelle water are commonly used bleaches. Place the stain, such as fruit, ink, iron, etc., over a bowl of hot water and apply the bleaching agent a drop at a time. When the stain changes color, dip into the water. Rinse with ammonia and then clear water. Caution — Use Javelle w-ater only on white cotton and linen. If the potassium permanganate leaves a pink stain, remove it with dilute oxalic acid. Never add Javelle water carelessly to wash water — use it as a bleach only. DIRECTIONS FOR PREPARING STAIN REMOVERS Javelle Water — One-half pound chloride of lime dissolved in two quarts cold water. Dissolve one pound of washing soda in one quart of boiling water. Pour 111] the clear liquid from the chloride of lime into a bottle and mix with the solution of washing soda. Cork and keep in a dark place. Oxalic Acid — POISON. Dissolve one ounce of the acid crystals in three- quarters of a cup of warm water. Potassium Permanganate — Dissolve one teaspoon crystals in one pint water. Hydrogen Peroxide — Add a few drops of ammonia just before using to make it work more quickly. REMOVAL OF STAINS NOTE: — After removing a stain you will sometimes find the color of the fabric has faded. Colors may often be revived by sponging lightly with pure acetic acid or the proper dye color dissolved in benzine. Blood and Meat Juice — 1 — Never put into hot water as that "sets" the stain. Soak at once in cold or lukewarm water, rub with soap and wash. 2 — A paste of raw starch mixed with cold water will remove these stains on flannel, blankets, and heavy goods. Repeat until stain disappears. Bluing — Boil the stained material twenty minutes. Add vinegar, if a bleach is necessary. Chocolate, Cocoa, Tea and Coffee — 1 — If Cream has been added to Coffee, first apply a grease solvent. Wet spot with cold water, cover with borax paste and wash with cold water. 2 — Pour on boiling water from a height. If necessary, bleach with potassium permanganate or Javelle water. (White goods only.) Egg — Wash in cold water, then warm water and soap. Fruit and Fruit Juices — Treat same as Coffee stains. Grass Stains — 1 — Wash at once with cold water and soap. 2 — Wet the spot, add dry cream of tartar (and an equal amount of salt, if goods are colored), keeping spot over a basin of steaming water (or teakettle spout). 3 — For colored materials, dissolve spot by sponging with alcohol or ether or apply molasses or a paste of soap and cooking soda and let stand over night. Grease, Oil, Cream — 1 — For wash goods, use warm water and soap. 2 — If material would be spotted by water, use an absorbent, such as alcohol, benzine, carbon tetra-chloride, chloroform, ether, gasoline or turpentine — as directed under "Solvents" above. 3 — Use dry absorbents, such as fuller's earth. Indelible Pencil — 1 — Soak in alcohol and wash with water and soap. 2 — Wash with soap and water and apply potassium permanganate as a last resort. Ink— 1 — Moisten with salt and lemon juice and lay in bright sunlight. Repeat. 2 — Soak fresh stains in sour milk or buttermilk. 3 — Use an absorbent with a warm iron. 4 — Soak stain with weak solution of oxalic acid, rinse in water to which a few drops of ammonia have been added. 5 — Apply a few drops of oxalic acid, then a few drops of Javelle water and rinse at once in clear, boiling water. Iodine — 1 — Soak or sponge with ammonia. 2 — Prepare starch as for laundry purposes, immerse stained material and boil. 3 — Wash with alcohol. Iron Rust — 1 — Use salt, lemon juice and sunlight. 2 — Boil stain in cream of tartar (4 teaspoons cream of tartar to one pint of water). 3 — Place spot over a bowl of boiling water and treat with or dilute by hydro- [12] chloric acid and dip instantly into hot water. Borax or a few drops of ammonia in the water are desirable. Kerosene — Use soap and warm water. Machine Oil — 1 — Use soap and cold water. 2 — Sponge with turpentine. Medicine — Soak in alcohol, dilute oxalic acid or boiling water. Mildew — (If mildew has grown into fabric, it cannot be removed.) 1 — If stain is fresh, wash with cold water and soap. 2 — Soak in sour milk, lay in sun without rinsing. 3 — Cover with paste of fuller's earth, or powdered chalk and salt. 4- — If stain is old, bleach with Javelle water or potassium permanganate, wash in hot water and place in sun. Milk — Wash at once in cold water and then soap and water. Mucus — 1 — Soak in cold salt water (two tablespoons salt to one quart of water). 2 — If very soiled, boil in salt water, using an enameled pan. Paint, Varnish, Vaseline — 1 — If fresh, use cold water and soap. 2 — Sponge with turpentine. 3 — Boil white cottons and linens in a solution of washing soda (3 teaspoons to a gallon of water). 4 — Sponge delicate goods with carbon tetra-chloride. 5 — Soften old stains with kerosene, then wash with turpentine, applying with a soft brush. (Vaseline stains which have been boiled cannot be removed.) Perspiration — 1^ — Use warm water, ammonia and soap; bleach. 2 — Soak stain in cold water, wash with borax and expose to sunshine. Remove odor with chloroform. Pitch, Rosin — 1 — Rub with fat or lard and wash. 2 — Sponge with benzine, gasoline or carbon tetra-chloride. Scorch — Wet and bleach in sunshine. Shoe Polish— Black — Rub with grease, wash in thick suds. Use turpentine on wool and silks. Brown — Soap and water; sponge wool with alcohol, then wash in soap and water. Soot — Brush lightly, then use an absorbent powder, such as fuller's earth. Stove Polish— 1 — Use cold water and soap. 2 — Soak in gasoline or chloroform. Tobacco — 1 — Water and soap, followed by lemon juice bleach. 2 — Use Javelle water on white cottons and linens. 3 — Sponge wool with alcohol. Water — Dampen entire garment, press while damp. Shake in steam and press. Wax or Paraffin — Treat same as grease, using absorbents. Bleach if necessary. Today with the high price of all textiles, it becomes a matter not only of choice but of necessity to keep colored goods from fading. A few moments' care will pre- vent expensive goods from "bleeding" or fading. If garments are made at home, it is always best to both shrink and set the colors before making up. Colors set with salt must be re-treated each time, but alum is good for all colors and gives more permanent results. Use cold water allow to stand overnight, then let the article dry before washing. To Set Pink, Brown, Black, or Black and White — Use 2 cups salt to 1 gallon water. To Set Blue, Green or Mauve — Use ]/2 cup strong vinegar or 1 tablespoon alum to 1 gallon cold water. To Set Lavender — Use 1 tablespoon sugar of lead to 1 gallon cold water. [13] i-=^=i^-*L:ir-Tf^J F^ '^W f ^^-m' U \^^^ CHAPTER IV The Right Way to Do Machine Washing O YOU soak the clothes when you use a machine?" "Is it necessary to boil them after washing?" "How long do you let the washer operate?" These are only a few of the many questions which women ask me about washing clothes the machine- way. Or every once in a while I still find a housekeeper saying: "I don't believe in washers, I just know they won't work, and the old way is good enough for me." Or perhaps again, "If you have to wash the flannels and colored things by hand, I don't think a machine is worth buying just for the white clothes." All of these remarks prove that the women asking them are not fully informed as to the right way to machine-wash, and that they do not see the wonderful results guaranteed by such a cylinder washer as the THOR. But before answering all such questions and giving the clear, plain rules for successful machine washing in every case, I wish to "tackle" this point of the woman who is convinced that such and such a device or labor-saver "won't work." Whenever I hear this negative comment so forcibly expressed, I am reminded of a friend who once bought a fireless cooker. She knew I had used a fireless successfully for many years, so she told me she was going to buy that identical make. I did not see her until several months later, when naturally I asked her how she liked the cooker she had purchased. To my amazement she replied that she had returned it to the manufacturer. "What was the matter with it?" I questioned. "Oh, it was defective," she assured me; "I put the cereal in at night and when I took the pot out in the morning it was cold and the oatmeal still raw. No one can make me believe you can cook in that cold box ! So I sent it right back to the manufacturer in three days. ' ' Now my friend thought (and probably still thinks) that she bought a "defective" cooker, but I know that she had not learned to use that cooker right. And so whenever I hear a woman say that a certain well-tested device "won't work," I am certain that the device will work if the woman only understands and operates it intelligently. Over and over again I have found that all such "come- backs" about equipment arise because the worker buying it has xhe Control Buttons •141 Starts and Stops Instantly at Your Touch not studied the mechanism, tested it, used a little patience and followed well-worked-out rules for its operation. I am quite sure that when somebody told your grandmother that finer, and more even, and perfect stitches could be taken in cloth with a needle set in a strange machine operated by a wheel and belt, than she could make by hand, that 5//^ too, said that this new sewing machine ''wont work" — and it probably took some time for her to be convinced. But you to-day know the perfection of sewing machine work, and [15] even if you cannot obtain the smoothest results the first time you place your foot on the treadle, will you foolishly condemn so wonder- ful a labor-saver as a sewing machine and say that it "won't work?" Yet why do you repeat similar doubts about a washing machine, especially when you may not have used it the right way? Before you pass judgment on the THOR washer or exclaim that you "don't believe it will wash clean," or "can't see how it will wash without rubbing," etc., I have just one advice — give the THOR a fair trial, and operate it after well- tested directions. If thousands and thousands of other women have proved that the THOR gives perfect, satisfactory results over years of service, will the THOR not also wash your family's clothes successfully? In the past years during which I have been a professional Household Efficiency Engineer, I have studied hundreds of tasks both in the factory and the home. From these experiments I have come to believe that there is always one best, one shortest, one easiest way to follow for any given piece of work. I like to call such a one best, shortest, easiest method a "standard practice." This means the set of directions, or practice of doing a task which is so good or perfect that it may really form a standard, and be followed over and over with the same perfect results. Just as we must follow a cooking recipe with its exact amounts, way of beating, tempera- ture and time in the oven to bake a perfect cake, so too, we must follow the exact instructions as to amount of soap solution, tem- perature of water, and time of operation of the washer, to secure perfect washing results. What a recipe is in cooking, a ''standard practice" is in the handling of a tuachine, or process of work. What, then, is this "standard practice," or right way to machine- wash clothes with a THOR washer? Standard Practice for THOR Washer (THOR Washer, Two Wash Tubs, One Basket) 1 — Lx)ok over clothing and remove spots and stains, sort and put to soak. (If the clothes are soaked over night, have the water as hot as you wish, but if the clothes are not soaked over night, do not have the water any hotter than you can bear your hand in. It is advisable to at least soak the clothes a few minutes before putting them in the machine.) 2 — Water can be heated in an ordi- nary wash boiler, if you have no hot water plant. 3 — Prepare soap solution to be used. 4 — Wring pieces for first load (table linen, etc.), from soak tub, putting into the machine only enough pieces to come to the level of the lifters (C-D) in the cylinder. Do not pack the clothes in tight. If the cvlinder is full, there will not be enough of a "drop." Put in hot water to just come below the two lifters (C-D). • v^^ D [161 m All Yotc Have to Do Is to Guide the Clothes Thru the Wringer Water must not come above "water line." Fasten both catches on the cyUnder cover securely. Start the machine. Pour in soap solution as cylinder revolves. This will start the suds immediately. Close the cover of the machine in order to maintain heat of the water. This first cylinderful of clothes should run about 15 minutes. 5 — While the machine is washing the first load, wring the rest of the soaking clothes into a basket or to the top of the machine. 6 — Drain stationary tubs and fill with clean, fresh, warm water for rinsing. The rinsing of the clothes is very important, as all soap must be removed from the clothes. 7 — Prepare blue water (no directions can be given for preparing blue water, as bluing comes in so many degrees of strength). Use care that bluing is thoroughly mixed with water to prevent streaking of clothes. 8 — Wring the washed clothes from the machine directly into boiler, if you are going to boil them; otherwise into the rinse tub. In wringing, always spread the [17] clothes out so that the wear on the rolls will be uniform. Don't have rolls too tight. When usinp a power wringer, the tendency is to keep the rolls too tight, particularly in wringing linens. This should not be done as extreme pressure might injure the fabric and make it diHicult for ironing. For large extra pieces, such as bed-spreads, blankets, etc., the tension on the rolls should always be greatly lightened. 9 — Put in the second lot of clothes and add enough soap solution to equal J^ cake or one tablespoon Hurley Soap. 10 — Prepare starch and put up lines. 1 1 — Proceed with second and third load same as first. (In the average family three loads will take care of the white clothes.) 12 — After the third cylinderful has been washed and wrung, draw out about one-fourth of the water, thus removing the sediment that has accumulated in the bottom of the machine. Add enough hot water to replace that drawn out and sufificient soap solution to make a good suds. 13 — The flannel load follows the last white load Water should be lukewarm, not too hot, or it is apt to shrink woolens. Wring loosely. Rinse in water of same temperature as wash water. Re-wring, pull into shape and dry in warm temperature, never cold or freezing. 14 — Colored load follows the flannel load and may be washed in the same water. Wring from washer into clear, clean water. Wring back to top of machine or into well-strained starch. Colored garments should be shaken out well, so that colors will not be likely to run into one another. 15 — If there are many black stockings, they may form a separate load. Always use clear, fresh, soapy water. Do not wash stockings in water from a white load, otherwise the lint from the white pieces will make stockings gray. Turn all stockings inside out before washing. Brown pairs, which often "bleed", or colored socks should be done by themselves. In washing white stockings, be careful that water is not hot. Hot water yellows white silk. Rinse all stockings particularly well, and hang up by the feet. How to Arrange Your Washing Load 1 (White) — ^Tablecloths, napkins, doilies, dresser scarfs, aprons. Load 2 (White) — Sheets, cases, face towels, shirt waists, brassieres, cambric night or underwear, children's dresses, white petticoats, handkerchiefs. Load 3 (White) — Cotton or mixed underwear, bath towels, kitchen towels, bed- spreads, covers, night wear, cotton crepes, all coarse meshed goods. Load 4 (Flannel) — Night garments or underwear of flannel or outing flannel, petti- coats, shirts, small quilts, children's woolen articles, blankets, all flannel finish or partly wool goods. Load 5 (Colored) — Housedresses, men's shirts, rompers, children's dresses, aprons, all colored or partly colored goods of gingham, chambray, linen, etc. I wish every woman to know also how successful is the THOR machine-way of washing those many articles which are included in our home furnishings, but which cannot be classed as ordinary washing. For instance, I had for years been in the habit of sending my bath mats and the small rugs used so commonly in sum- mer, to the commercial laundry. The charge at first was about 25 cents each, but gradually it mounted until it was a heavy item of expense. Also, the rugs were faded badly. The laundress refused to handle them, because the lifting and work were so heavy. But when I bought my THOR washer, I tried to wash one of the small rag rugs just for experiment. What was my surprise to see it go thru the wringer as pretty and clean as the day it was new ! Ever since I have included the washing of all mats, cottoii rugs, etc., with no extra effort at all. How to Wash Bath Mats, Rag Rugs, etc. Use lJ-2 cups of white-soap solution to each load and luke-warm water. Rinse in luke-warm water, fold mat lengthwise in half and run thru wringer. (Do not have wringer too tight.) Another article of wear which used to be a bugaboo to wash was our heavy 181 winter bathrobes. Sometimes 1 sent them to the dry cleaner who charged about $2.00 a apiece. Or I paid the laundress extra, because they were so heavy. Now, we simply follow the directions for all wool washing: How to Wash Bathrobes, Small Quilts, Wool Baby Coats, etc. Use 2 cups of white-soap solution and luke-warm water. Rinse in two luke- warm waters. Run most carefully thru wringer, beginning with portion of hem and loosen wringer over sleeves, collar, etc. If quilts, fold and wring; if white wools, use 2 tablespoons of borax in rinse water. Every housekeeper, expecially in soft-coal-using sections, knows how dirty lace or window curtains become. For fear of harming the lace, I used to allow my curtains to hang until they were too soiled. Now, I have found that the right way is to take them down and launder them often, as follows: How to Wash Lace Curtains, Scrim, Net, etc. Shake curtains free of loose dust. Soak overnight in cold water. Wring loosely from water into machine. (Curtains must not come above the two lifters.) (C-D.) Add hot water and soapy solution sufficient to make good suds. Operate machine about 12 minutes. Wring loosely into rinse water, blue rinse with thin starch water, if white curtains are wanted or prepare strained coffee infusion, if curtains are wanted in ecru tone. Wring loosely and stretch or pin on frames. No mother need fear that a THOR will harm even the most dainty baby garments. These may be treated with white-soap solution; operated from 5 to 10 minutes, and rinsed carefully in warm water. To cleanse diapers, brush off, then soak in pail of cold water and 1 tablespoon of ammonia. Wash in pure white-soap solution, wring into boiler, rinse and hang at once in sun. How to Wash Overalls and Work Clothing On the farm, or where some of the family use special work clothing, the THOR will be found of greatest value, since it will machine-wash clean, garments from which hand rubbing cannot adequately remove the soil and grease. If very greasy or with paint spots, cover spots with kerosene and let stand. Put garments in machine; cover with hot water and turpentine solution; operate 15 to 20 minutes; wring; rinse in hot water and wring again. Hang overalls up while wet, pull in shape and they will need no ironing. How to Wash Clothes or Garments of Corduroy Many articles of corduroy, such as leggins, carriage robes, coats, etc., which are most difficult to wash by hand are very quickly cleai-^^ed the machine-way. Follow the usual steps for washing woolens, using white-soap ^" But suppose that I did send my clothing to the laundry, both for washing and ironing, and say it averaged $5 a week (which is far too low an estimate), do vou realize that $5 weekly, or $20 a month, is the interest on $4,000 at 6 per cent.? Or put in another way, $20 is 20 per cent, of one-fifth of a salary of $100 a month; or 2(5 10 per cent, or one-tenth of a salary of $200 a month; or almost 7 per cent, of a salary of $300 a month? Now which of us has the right to spend even an un- necessary 7 per cent, of our salary on washing clothes, when there are so many lasting and more profitable ways of spending money on books, music, or travel, or in paying for a home of our own? I need hardly try and prove that the average fam- ily (even the family of four persons on an income of $300 to $400 a month) can- not afford to have its clothes washed at a commercial laundry. And the more children, or the greater the number of persons, the higher the ratio and more unbearable laundry costs become. I travel and lecture in all parts of the country, and I seem to hear nothing else but "high cost" of this or that. But do those women who become so excited at compare the money their total incomes? p. O. Box 302 Phone 624 Huntington Laundry Co. New York Ave., below Main Street A. M. WILLETS, Manager J \n^ ^ ROUGH DRY L(2o-.ct:;>) prised at their wonderful efficiency and quality. For Jr u Quality is the watchword of the entire Hurley Machine Company. Every part is subjected to the most rigid inspection before it leaves the factory; the work of each employee is checked and counterchecked, so that there can be no error, no flaw on any machine. The Hurley Machine Company is a Fifteen Million Dollar corporation, with a reputation for sixteen years of fair, square dealing. It has the largest area in the world devoted to the manu- facturing of electric equipment for reducing home drudgcr>^ This could be possible only through satisfied customers which the THOR has created in the past, and it is interesting to know that there are today 750,000 THOR washers in use. The Hurley Machine Company stands not only for efficiency in the home, but for the highest type of factory efficiency and satisfied, happy workers. No effort is spared to protect, watch, and give a square deal to the thousands of workers who produce the THOR machines to help you in your housekeeping. [36] List of ELECTRIC LABOR-SAVERS Electric Washing Machines No. 25 — Capacity 6 sheets or equivalent Galvanized steel body, wood cylinder, stationary wringer. Copper body, wood cylinder, stationary wringer. Galvanized steel body, wood or MetalO cylinder, swinging wringer. Copper body, wood or MetalO cylinder, swinging wringer. No. 28 — Capacity 12 sheets or equivalent Galvanized steel body, special copper cylinder, stationary wringer. Copper body, special copper cylinder, stationary wringer. No. 32 — Family Size — All Metal — Capacity 8 sheets or equivalent Galvanized steel body, Luminoid cylinder, swinging wringer. Copper body, Luminoid cylinder, swinging wringer. Electric Ironing Machines No. 75 Automatic — 44-Inch Roll Gas heated, Gasoline heated. Electric heated. No. 90 Automatic — 50-Inch Roll Gas heated, Gasoline heated. Any THOR washer or ironer may be equipped with a 32- volt motor, for use with a farm-Hghting plant. Or, if desired, machines can be furnished without motor to be operated from gas engines. Electric Vacuum Cleaners No. 77 Electric (with Floating Brush) Hurley Powdered Soap 5-lb. packages 25-lb. pails 250-lb. barrels '^7] WK UKKsar CKjmf^rotiiji,.. Tiior .!25. Site- : (.4/»l.r,V». 007263 XckJiMuM rr. J.. P. Brovm ,. . awt/oitmd up to amr standard aftfieirafy, and h a^telntffy/nfjr^m imfrrietlioHt in rualfrial and uarJtmai WK /ta/iH/S f ajctre fa nptaa^ irtt aj thartit^ any part, or parti prtrring dtjttth-r ritker in matrria. nKinsiip t,n(cidtnt and mijnnr txtepud) witkin a prriad e/ ant roar from tliis data. WE FLRTItEK GVAKA.VTEB itat lia ra,t t/ ttrrlntily far afaratme'*' •' txutd Z emit ptr kanr. TTH^-TFn a! runr,, lUi: HURLEf MACHIHC COMPAUr The Hurley Guarantee Every purchaser of a THOR washing machine, THOR ironing machine, or a THOR vacuum cleaner, receives a Warrant, Guar- antee and Security Bond. This engraved certificate is your abso- lute protection. It is your complete assurance that the particular machine you buy has been thoroughly tested at the factory and passed as perfect by a skilled inspector before it is shipped. There can be no "come-back" with any THOR labor-saver manufactured by the Hurley Machine Co. The name "Hurley Machine Co." stands back of every machine you buy bearing the THOR label. This guarantee further states that the Hurley Machine Co. will supply, free of charge, any part or parts which are defective, within a full year's period. It also guarantees the cost of current used in operation — that even on any current rate, the charge for running the THOR No. 25 or the No. 32 machines will not exceed two cents per hour, and that even for operating the largest sizes the cost will not be more than three cents per hour. There is no possible chance of buying a device which will break your pocketbook to pay for its operation. You are not buying a "pig in a poke" when you purchase any one of the THOR labor-savers. You know that it is perfect mechanically, that it will give service, and above all, what it will cost to run it. The HURLEY GUARANTEE protects your interests fully. [38] EASY PAYMENTS 'jOUR Electric light Company or ANY THOR dealer will deliver to your home any or all of the THOR labor-savers for a small cash sum down, $10.00 brings the washer or ironer, $5.00 brings the cleaner, balance to be paid in twelve small monthly installments. This liberal selling policy puts the benefits of the THOR home efficiency devices within the reach oj all purses. It permits you to secure the help and serv- ices of these wonderful machines as yoii pay jor them. You don't have to wait until you pay the full amount — you can begin to use them at once. In this way the THOR products pay for themselves, because the moment you begin to use them you can stop paying for other costly hand labor. You can do with less hired service by the month or day, or entirely replace the usually wasteful, ex- pensive human worker if you use either a THOR washer, a THOR ironer, or the THOR vacuum cleaner. Put your home on the modern, up-to-date business basis which makes it possible for every housekeeper to have a "margin of leisure," solve the servant problem, and reduce the H. C. of L. Visit the THOR dealer in your city or town to- day. Ask to have a free demonstration. Operate the devices yourself, see how safe and easy they are, and how quickly you get results. Then talk to the dealer and he will tell you all about this unusual, helpful, "easy payment plan." [39] 'HERE arc THOR dealers in 6,000 cities and towns throughout the country who sell and service THORS. All of the THOR machines may be featured and sold through the local electric light or power company. In still other cases, the THOR has as agent a prominent electrical dealer, in whose windows you will see these devices exhibited. The THOR is always demonstrated and attracts large crowds at the best electrical and household efficiency shows and exhibits. In addition to the 6,000 dealers, there are exclusive THOR Electric Shops, for sales and service, in the following Cities: California Los Angeles 306 West Seventh Street San Francisco 124 Post Street Illinois Chicago 24 E. Jackson Boulevard Indiana Fort Wayne 1204 Calhoun Street Iowa Des Moines 908 Walnut Street Massachusetts Boston 209 Tremont Street Michigan Grand Rapids 130 Pearl Street Minnesota Minneapolis 830 Marquette Avenue Missouri Kansas City 817 Walnut Street St. Louis 1006 Locust Street Ohio Akron (Rogers-Thor Electric Shop; 18 East Market Street Canton (Rogers-Thor Electric Shop) 138 Fifth Street, N.W. Cincinnati 140 East Sixth Street Cleveland (Rogers-Thor Electric Shop) 31-33 Colonial Arcade Toledo 219 Superior Street Pennsylvania Philadelphia 42 South 17th Street Utah Salt Lake City 157 Regent Street Wisconsin Milwaukee 114 Grand Avenue See if the THOR is carried by your electrical dealer, by the electric light company, by a hardware, a furniture, or a department store; or, if there is a special branch store in your particular city or town. If you cannot locate such dealer, or if you wish to ask further questions or order direct, you can write to — THE HURLEY MACHINE CO. General Offices and Works, West 22nd Street and 54th Avenue, CHICAGO HranchesK Toronto ( London- New York— 147 West 12nd Street -66 Temperance Street N. W. 1-8 Pancras Rd., Kin<'s Cross [40] ^"^^IMa.u .^ % , 1 .^ u ^-5 N. J. • • ^ 4 VJ / ^\ ^>€^^^'^'^.'^^^iP^^ ^_^.^^^r^* ■^^ ^ ^^ ^^^^ "^^ c*-^^^^-^^'^^ ^^^' ^^^^"''^ "-^-^ ,0 o o <^^ , o - = , 'O -b V ■^■z- /.-:: ^- 0' '='- -"^ '^0^ .^q. V ■;>. .^' S^' M./ .•■,:■. 'j^ * .\^"' _ t... '^^ ' ^-i."^' , o- o, "'^ 0^ : <■ ^ O 'o . , • J ^"•^^- !-£/f r .^ V !;.|:|;ili:|li|;|i| ::j/';$:'h''<^^^^^^ '';':''m'. ' ' ':■:'' • : ;;!li!.