1 1 8 Hi 1 1 1' fl lit fill lilt II IIIIHiIIhIII II ((Kill lill IJIIilJIll till II tilt If II (III III! I'll! ill! 'illlll '1' -llll' ■III 111 llliH 111! Ill llll II! Ill 1 ill ! Pll HlWfflI»M CTVSjSTHrB AND SHOP MANAGEMENT Oe SECTIONAL SYSTEM Ml! n uu IIIIIKI I IIIUIUUHI NHfflfl lU Uu IiIIhII turn I lill 11 pen r 11 WH1H RAffl mis HuBBI 118811 DEINER lllilll HI IHIIIIIIIi II II1J IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII! Class Book Copyright N?_ COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2011 with funding from The Library of Congress http://www.archive.org/details/completehandbookOOdein FRAXZ F. DEIXER A Complete Handbook of Tailoring and Shop Management on the Sectional or Group System 3* FRANZ F. DEINER F. F. DEINER & COMPANY No. 1 EAST 42nd STREET NEW YORK Copyright 1923, Franz F. Deintr s. q>° ^ gj-I^J^ ©GI.A597130 AUG 23 1920 Preface The purpose of this book is to put before the cutter and tailor in concise and simple form, the indispensable rules for turning out the highest class of garments, as well as for the proper management of a shop conducted ac- cording to the Sectional or Group System of Tailoring here described. The rules of operation which are given here, have been thoroughly tried out in the experience of a life- time in the tailoring business. It is firmly believed that this book will serve the purpose for which it is intended — namely, as a help and a guide to the merchant-tailor and to the tailor craftsman. The author is convinced that his fel- low workers, after carefully studying and trying out his group system as here described, will appreciate the effici- ency secured by this system through simplicity of opera- tion, increased output, and every material advantage. Introduction The principle of the ''division of labor'' is one on which the manufacturer has depended to speed up produc- tion ever since the invention of machinery. Continual practice in a single operation begets speed and skill, and hence a better and more valuable product. It requires a dozen or more processes or operations to make so simple a thing as a needle or a writing pen. and as the object in- creases in complexity and number of parts the division of labor thereon becomes more and more minute. The old objection urged against the minute division of labor was that it narrowed the vision of the worker and blunted his ambition — made a mere machine of him. But that was in the days when men worked twelve and sixteen hours a day. With the eight-hour day and the present scale of wages, there is plenty of time left to the worker for re- laxation of muscles and refreshment of mind. He may, if he is ambitious use some of his surplus time in fitting himself for performing more highly skilled and more highly paid labor. And to give him an opportunity for making such advancement is a part of the plan of manage- ment for the Sectional Shop. The Group feature of the sectional shop also makes it possible and desirable for the worker to become familiar with several of the operations in order to fit him for "doubling up" when the slack sea- INTRODUCTION son comes and the output is not large enough to work the full number of sections. In short, there does not exist today a single valid objection' to the sectional system as developed in Mr. Deiner's book, but on the contrary, there is a multitude of arguments in its favor. It is indeed practically indispensable in some form if the merchant- tailor is to make his shop pay a profit. He must use every known device for rapid and economical manufacture, and he must turn out the very highest class of work. xAil these requirements are fully met by this system. Every detail is carefully worked out in this book, and the language is so simple and the directions so explicit that any apprentice can understand and follow the instructions given for each of the 74 processes or operations employed in producing the completed garment. It provides every incentive to the employee to do his best and pays him accordingly. It is the system that pays the workman the highest attainable wage, and secures for the employer the most highly skilled and most highly pro- ductive labor. It brings out the very best that is in every man and converts it into higher wages and greater profit. It is true that the Sectional System must have the most careful supervision to secure the best results. The foreman must know every employee and the exact measure of his efficiency from week to week, and he must make his recommendations for promotion accordingly. The fore- man must know how to help men as well as how to handle them. He must create the morale of the shop and give to it a high industrial tone — that is, the main thing thought of in the shop must be the work of the shop. The organ- 8 INTRODUCTION ization of a school -is strongly recommended for the train- ing of the low-salaried part of the men. The younger part of the force must be especially looked after and in- spired with the ambition of attaining the highest standard of efficiency and skill. Every employee should be made acquainted with work of all the sections, for he might have unusual taste or ability to fill some position other than the one in which he may happen to be at any time. Every workman must be made to feel that he is respon- sible for the reputation of the shop. If his work is not well done it injures the character of the entire product of the concern. A wise merchant-tailor seconded by an able foreman and assistants can work wonders by following out the Sec- tional System in what it does and in what it suggests. H. B. Niver. New York City June 30, 1920 Sketch of the Author The present volume differs from many books on the tailoring art in one important respect — it is the work of a practical tailor — one who has worked his way from the lowest rung of the ladder to the highest. There is NO THEORY — the tailor is instructed how to accomplish each step in the building of a coat in the simplest and most efficient manner. The author knows how to do it BE- CAUSE HE HAS HIMSELF WORKED OUT EVERY PROCESS. Not only this, but he has trained large bodies of men to work together in the production of a large out- put. He is not only a tailor, but also an accomplished manager and organizer. Perhaps the best way to make clear Mr. Deiner's special qualifications for producing a practical book on Sectional Tailoring and Shop Manage- ment will be to quote from a recent address of Mr. C. F. Wetzel to his employees, on the occasion of the presenta- tion of a testimonial to Mr. Deiner for his efficient admin- iztration of the Wetzel shops: "Twenty-five years ago Mr. Deiner came to this country, not conversant with the English language; without a knowledge of American customs and business methods ; equipped only with a thorough knowledge of his trade and an unswerving ambition to progress. 11 HANDBOOK OF TAILORING "After working for several houses, traveling through the East, becoming more familiar with our language and American business requirements, he came to work for me some eighteen' years ag'o. For a period of eight years he proved his value to us. His efficient workmanship won him advancement in various ways — one in particular resulting in our establishing a special department, with him at the head, to train our men in the details of working our garments, to produce the style, which we have felt has characterized our house from the beginning. "The particular points of shoulder expression, shaping and draping, were taught to our employes by Mr. Deiner. At the end of that time, he expressed a desire to perfect a tailoring sys- tem, by gaining a certain experience in the general clothing trade and so, for several years, his efforts were devoted to this one end. That he has — and how well he has succeeded — is best evidenced by the manner in which he has developed his excep- tional work with us, which represents the highest grade of fine tailoring. "If you will but consider how much he has accomplished, you will realize that his success has required more than mere ambition and his knowledge of good workmanship. These two things have, of course, been big factors in his success, but the third, and perhaps the greatest, has been his ability to instil in his men the desire to do their very best. "Having been a workman himself, he knows how much it means to work under the best conditions — good light, good air, clean workshops and pleasant quarters. It is my pleasure to know that you men take a personal pride in maintaining these conditions, which is at once reflected in a man's desire to keep up his own personal appearance. "Assembled here are men of varied nationalities and relig- ion; this because Mr. Deiner has made it a point to let nothing of this nature interfere with the greater object to be attained, viz.: EFFICIENCY. 12 SKETCH OF THE AUTHOR "I only wish to say these few words to bring home forcibly to your minds what a really unusual and happy privilege is ours, to be working together in the pleasantest relationship — all striv- ing to make our work better, and our clothes the best that can be produced, for it is these results that make a business house grow as our house has been constantly growing, and as it be- comes larger each year, bigger opportunities and better positions are opened to each man. It is these united efforts which spell SUCCESS for each of us." 13 HANDBOOK OF TAILORING TABLE OF CONTENTS PREFACE .... INTRODUCTION . SKETCH OF THE AUTHOR Page 5 7 11 PART I. — Organization and Management of the Sectional Shop. The Organization and Management of the Sectional Shop . . 17 The Sectional Shop Ticket ....... 17 Timing the Sectional Operations ....... 17 Value of Sectional System in Small Shop '. . . 18 Improved Conditions of Labor ....... 19 General Rules .......... 19 The Work of Absentees 20 Basis of Wages . . . . ... . . 20 Effect of Materials and Styles ....... 21 Time Economies ......... 21 Grouping in Small Plant ........ 22 The Lunch Room ......... 22 Educational Aids .......... 22 Helpful Results 23 Shop Lay-Out 23 PART II.— Shop Lay-Outs and Time Schedules. The Group System — Groups One and Two Groups Three, Four and Five Groups Six, Seven and Eight . Groups Nine, Ten, and Try-On . Notes on the Time Schedules . Shop Lay-Out, Plan A. Provisions for Increased Output Diagram for Plan A. . Plan B. — Medium-Sized Shop . Diagram for Plan B. . Diagram for Plan C — Large Shop Plan C. — A Large Shop Plan C. Adapted to Factory Methods PART III.— The Sections in Detail Sec. 1. Sec. 1. Sec. 1. Sec. 2. Sec. 3. Sec. 4. Cutting Canvas Cutting Stripes and Plaids How to Fit Linings Marking Stitches Baster — First Operation Overcasting Seams 25 . 26 27 . 28 29 . 30 31 . 32 35 . 36-7 40-41 . 42 46 49 49 49 53 55 57 14 CONTENTS TABLE OF CONTENTS— Continued Sec. 5. Machinist — First Operation . Sec. 6. Underpresser — First Operation . Sec. 7. Baster — Second Operation, Pockets Sec. 8. Machinist — Second Operation, Stitching Pockets Sec. 9. Basting Haircloth on Canvas Sec. 10. Padding Stitches Sec. 11. Basting Seams for Try-On . Sec. 12. Padding Collar .... Sec. 13. Underpresser — Second Operation Sec. 14. Basting Fronts on Canvas Sec. 15. Special Baster for Try-On Sec. 16. Basting Shoulders and Collars for Try-On Sec. 17. Basting in Sleeves for Try-On Sec. 18. Pressing Coat for Try-On . Sec. 19-20. Various Extras Sec. 21-22. Sleeve-Making Sec. 23. Ripping and Pressing After Try-On Sec. 24. Re-Marking After Try-On Sec. 25. Marking Stitches After Try-On Sec. 26. Basting on Pockets and Seams After Try-O Sec. 27. Machinist — Re-Stitching Sec. 28. Making Vents in Back Sec. 29. Underpresser — Third Operation Sec. 30. Basting Fronts on Canvas After Try-0 Sec. 31. Padding Lapels Sec. 32. Underpresser — Fourth Operation Sec. 33. Shaping Coat Sec. 34. Machinist — Fourth Operation . Sec. 35. Basting on Tape . Sec. 36. Felling Tape .... Sec. 37. Underpresser — Fifth Operation Special Instructions for Hollow Lapels Sec. 38. Facing Baster Sec. 39. Machinist — Fifth Operation Sec. 40. Underpresser — Sixth Operation Sec. 41. Edge Baster .... Sec. 42. Basting Lining Sec. 43. Basting Shoulder Seams . Sec. 44. Seaming Shoulder Sec. 45. Underpresser — Seventh Operation Sec. 46. Collar-Baster Sec. 47. Working in Armhole Sec. 48. Underpresser — Eighth Operation Sec. 49. Sleeve-Baster .... Sec. 50. Sewing in Sleeves . Sec. 51. Underpresser — Ninth Operation Sec. 52. Collar-Shaper Sec. 53. Basting Top Collar . Sec. 54. Felling Collar Sec. 55. Basting Armholes Sec. 56. Machinist — Sixth Operation . Page 57 57 58 60 60 62 62 62 64 64 65 66 67 68 69 69 71 72 72 73 73 74 74 75 75 76 76 78 78 78 79 80 83 84 85 85 87 89 89 89 90 90 91 92 94 94 95 95 96 15 HANDBOOK OF TAILORING TABLE OF CONTENTS— Continued Sec. 57. Cutting Buttonholes . Sec. 58. Buttonhole-Making Sec. 59. Felling Coat .... Sec. 60. Pulling out Bastings Sec. 61. Pressing Edges and Buttonholes Sec. 62. Pressing off Coat . Pressing Body Coats Sec. 63. Examiner — First Operation . Sec. 64. Button-Sewer Sec. 65. Re-Presser . . . Sec. 66. Examiner — Second Operation Sec. 67. Basting on Silk Facing . Sec. 68. Making Silk Collar . Sec. 69. Felling Silk Facing Sec. 70. Basting on Flat Braid Sec. 71. Felling Braid Sec. 72. Cording Edges . Sec. 73. Piping Edges Sec. 74. Putting on Velvet Collar . Frock Coats ..... Page 96 97 99 99 99 100 103 104 104 104 105 105 107 107 108 109 109 109 111 112 PART IV.— Alterations. 9. 10. 11. 12. How to Try on and Mark for Alterations . Break in Forepart in Front of Arm Break in Back of Arm ...... Low Shoulder ....... Wrinkle below Collar ... ... Wrinkles below Collar, Back of Arm . Erect Figure — Heavy Neck and High Shoulder To Give Ease Over Hip and Reduce Surplus in Front When a Coat is Too Large Over the Upper Button Being Finished ........ To Reduce Width of Forepart over the Upper Button Too Short a Back ....... To Fit a Square-Shouldered Figure To Alter for Stooping Figure ..... After 117 119 123 123 125 127 129 131 136 136 139 139 139 PART V.— Shop Ticket and Records. The Deiner Sectional Shop-Ticket and Ledger Records The Sectional Shop Ticket ..... The Checking Ledger ....... The Cost-Accounting Ledger ..... Caring for Trimmings and Buttons .... Table for Computing Wages ..... 145 147 148 149 150 152 16 . PART I. The Organization and Manage- ment of the Sectional Shop The Sectional Shop Ticket. — There are seventy-four sections in the "Group" or "Sectional" System ticket, including the blanks for extras. Workers must have coupons to show for work done, and the nature of extras, if any, must be specified on these coupons. Where busi- ness is conducted on a large scale, each worker should be given a special section to work on, and a standard number of pieces should be assigned to him as a day's work. This "standard" number is determined by the length of time required by an average worker to complete a single opera- tion in any given section. When business is conducted on a smaller scale, a number of sections are grouped together so that the work in each section may be completed in the same length of time. Such a grouping is shown in the various shop layouts. Timing the Sectional Operations. — The Time Schedules given on the following pages have been care- fully made out by recording the exact time required by different workmen for performing the work in each of the sectional operations. A foreman should carry a stop watch in order to find out to the minute how long it takes each of the workmen to do his part on a single coat. There is no other way of watching and improving the efficiency of the shop, and of keeping an accurate record of the costs. 17 HANDBOOK OF TAILORING It is of the highest importance also to have standards both as to time and quality of work, and every workman must understand these standards, so that he may know just what is expected of him. If he accomplishes more than the average, he should be paid accordingly; and if he does less than the standard requirements, he must not expect to receive the same wages as his more proficient fellow-worker. The time schedules here given indicate that 24 hours are required to make a sack coat. This time is sufficient to carry out the most exacting specifications for building a coat. If there should be many extra requirements, the time may exceed 24 hours ; and, on the other hand, if the work is not so particular, it may easily be possible to make a coat in much less time than is here set down. Work timed on this plan will enable an employer with an output of about twelve suits a week, to run his shop with a group of seven workers. If the shop turns out twenty-four suits a week, it can be run with a group of twelve workers, with an extra man, and a foreman may be employed. Value of the Sectional System in the Small Shop. — The merchant-tailor with a small business, who uses the Sectional System, can, with the help of an assistant, man- age a small body of workmen without any other help in the way of superintendence. Through daily intercourse with his workers, he can maintain a high morale, and thus be enabled to turn out work which will give satisfaction to his customers, and at a reasonable cost satisfactory to himself. As business increases a foreman will become a ne- cessity. It will, however be to the manager's advantage to keep up the same personal relations with his workers as when doing business on a small scale. He should by no 18 SHOP-MAN A GEMENT means tolerate evil' practices, such, for example, as graft, either direct or indirect. Foremen will frequently take it upon themselves to discharge efficient help in order to give work to personal friends, who may be inferior work- men. Thus it may happen that an able worker will find himself discharged, perhaps because he had refused some special favor to the foreman or because the foreman wished to replace him with a personal friend. It is a good rule for the proprietor to hire or dis- charge help himself, and to use the utmost circumspection in so doing. Above all things, he must not show any par- tiality whatever nor make any distinction as to nationality race, or creed. He should not have workers of the same nationality grouped at one table, and thus perhaps arouse jealousy among the workers. They should, instead, be seated according to sections without regard to nationality. In this way should one worker improve in his work, his neighbor is bound to notice it, and will emulate his ex- ample. Improved Conditions of Labor.— Happily, the dis- charging of workers without good reason, the exacting of long hours, low wages, and brutal threats for the slightest misdemeanor, are now things of the past. The time has come when workers must be treated as equals. Their training must be conducted logically and kindly, and regu- lar hours must be assigned. Fair wages must be forth- coming in order to develop the artistic traits of the work- ers and inspire them with ambition to bring about the best results for the benefit of both employer and employee. General Rides. — Vulgar language should not be per- mitted. The men workers should be separated from the women workers with a view to avoid talk which does not concern the work. The manager should look into all com- 19 HANDBOOK OF TAILORING plaints himself, and never, in any case, take action until due investigation has been made. It must be borne in mind that the one who carries rumors is usually the one who spreads them. Should a foreman or an assistant bring in a complaint against any particular worker, and ask for his discharge, the manager should ascertain whether the complaint has been made on account of poor work, or other causes which might affect the efficiency of the organization, or because said worker had refused some special favor to the fore- man or assistant. The manager should try to adjust mat- ters and not discharge workers if he can possibly avoid doing so, as the placing of new hands is an expense as well as a loss of time. The manager should take as much in- terest in the worker who works for him as he takes in the firm for which he works. There should be a medicine chest at hand, in case of need, and the plant should be visited by a doctor at least once a month. The Work of Absentees. — Should an employee be unable, on account of illness, to continue work, and there are no other workers to fill his place, his work should be divided among others competent at that kind of work. In this way there would be no stoppage in certain sections, which might prevent all other sections from getting ahead. All questions arising in connection with work must be decided by the manager himself ; his decision must be en- forced with courtesy, and he must direct his assistants to act in the same way. Gifts or other special favors from workers should not be accepted by the manager or by his assistants. Basis of Wages. — The manager should observe the different workers and note the time it takes each to do the 20 SHOP-MAN A GEMENT work of his or her respective sections. For instance, if a man has been working- at a certain section for a length of time, and as a consequence has acquired proficiency therein, the output of such a worker will naturally be larger than that of a slow worker or a beginner. Such a worker should in justice be proportionately compensated for his work. On the other hand, there will be workers whose work, while equally as good in quality, is not equal in quantity or output. These men should be given every opportunity to hold their positions, for the business is not losing any- thing by keeping slow workers, so long as they are paid ac- cording to their output. Effect of Materials and Styles. — The time required for the completion of articles in the different sections should be calculated according to the output of the me- dium worker. The different kinds of material used and the styles followed should also be taken into considera- tion; the cuff on a sleeve from hard material takes more time to make than one from soft material. The same principle applies to every part of a garment. These con- siderations should be taken account of by the manager to enable him to make allowances which promote friendly relations between the management and the employees, as mentioned above. Every possible expedient should be tried to encourage the workers to acquire skill in artistic production as well as in mere volume of work, so that they may feel that they are working for their own advance- ment as well as for the interests of their employer. Time Economies. — The Manager should know the number of minutes actually consumed in the work of each section. To this end he must observe each worker and see that none lose time. In all plants a timekeeper is indis- 21 HANDBOOK OF TAILORING pensable. The manager should give instructions as to the proper handling of the work of each section on the entire garment, and these instructions should be typewrit- ten or printed on tickets. This plan will save time, as the workers need not wait for the foreman to come to them, nor to look him up to get the necessary explanations. Grouping in Small Plant. — In a small plant the sec- tions should be apportioned among the workers in such a manner that each group will perform its work in about the same time as each of the other groups. In each group there should be a man of experience who understands all the operations handled by the group. In a large plant, as- sign to each section as many workers as are necessary to do the work. In any shop where all, the sections, or a large number of them are working separately, a sufficient num- ber of assistants to the manager should be provided. The Lunch Room. — If the plant is large there should be a special place set apart for a lunch room, and it should be made as cheerful as possible. It should be artistically decorated with appropriate pictures, and a book table should be at hand provided with the latest fashion maga- zines and other periodicals and books dealing with the tail- oring craft. Educational Aids. — Lectures should be given on cur- rent styles and fabrics, and on other subjects relating to the tailoring business. An evening school may be conducted with classes for teaching the English language to workers of foreign birth, as well as classes for teaching efficiency in the daily work of the shop. A knowledge of the English language will enable the workers to carry out orders with greater readiness and intelligence, and the efficiency classes will contribute toward speeding up and perfecting the out- put of the shop. The teachers for these classes might be 22 SHOP-MAN A CEMENT found among the workers themselves, choosing such as are exceptionally well educated in the language of the country. Should the instruction of such teachers not be adequate it would pay big returns to hire suitable teachers to give in- struction to the workers, and fit them to teach their fellow- workmen. Helpful Results. — A spirit of mutual helpfulness and friendliness will naturally spring up in these classes, which will produce harmony among the workers themselves, be- tween employer and employees, and a helpful spirit of co- operation in the work of building garments. The workers should be taught that they must give a fair and just equiva- lent in labor, measured in time and output, for the wages that they receive. Only on this high ideal of justice, can a healthy organization be created and maintained. Shop Lay-Out . — Good light, sanitary conditions, and ample space are important factors toward enabling the workers to turn out perfect work without loss of time. The machinists should have the best corner in the loft, with the light coming from both sides. On the side of the machinist there should be a table for the fitter, the seam and pocket-baster, and the stitch- marker, who is generally a girl or boy apprentice. If there is room near the table of the fitter, the girls who do the padding, tape-felling, etc., should be seated there. On the other side of the machinist is a table for the under-presser. Next comes a table for basting cloth on canvas, sleeve-making, shaping, and facing-basting. An iron should be near at hand for the shaper to rectify mis- takes. In small plants where the edge-basting and lining- basting is done by the same worker, he should be provided with a stool about two feet high, as he must sit part of the 23 HANDBOOK OF TAILORING time. In this case the tables are assumed to be three feet high. The tables for the pressers and underpressers should be about 26 inches in height. The tape-baster, sleeve-baster, collar-baster, armhole- baster, and edge-baster should sit at a finishing table, and the sleeve-baster should have an iron convenient. It is a good plan to have finishers, such as buttonhole-makers, button-sewers, and basting-puller seated near the pressing table. A table for the pressers, an edge-pressing machine, and a wringer for press cloths will complete the necessary- shop equipment. (See diagram for shop layout.) A time clock should be installed with blue and red. Red indicates late. Each worker is his own time-keeper. The following Diagrams and the accompanying ex- planations give in full the details of laying out Sectional Shops of different capacities and the position of every worker. 24 PART II. Shop Lay-Outs and Time Schedules MANAGEMENT Foreman $75.00 per week Office Assistant 15.00 per week THE GROUP SYSTEM FIRST GROUP— One Tailor Sections $45.00 per week 1. Fitting 45 Minutes 3, 11. Basting- Seams 20 Minutes 7, 26, 28. Basting and Tacking Breast Pocket 30 Minutes 9. Basting Haircloth and Padding on Canvas... 25 Minutes Total 120 Minutes SECOND GROUP— One Machinist $50.00 per week Sections 5. Stitching Canvas 5 Minutes 8. Stitching Underarm Seams and Pockets 25 Minutes 27. Stitching Sleeves and Other Seams 10 Minutes 34. Making Linings 20 Minutes 39. Sewing around Edges 5 Minutes 56. Stitching Edges 5 Minutes Total 70 Minute* 25 HANDBOOK OF TAILORING THIRD GROUP— One Under presser $45.00 per week Sections 6. Pressing Seams and Foreparts 25 Minutes 13. Pressing Canvas and Collar 20 Minutes 29. Pressing and Shaping before Basting on Canvas 15 Minutes 32. Pressing Lapels, Chest and Pockets 15 Minutes 37. Pressing Tape and Linings 15 Minutes 40. Pressing Edges open 5 Minutes 45. Pressing Shoulder Seams 5 Minutes 48. Pressing in Armhole 10 Minutes 51. Pressing Sleeves and Collar for Shaping 25 Minutes Total 135 Minutes FOURTH GROUP— Three Women $75.00 per week Sections 2, 25. Marking-Stitches 25 Minutes 4. Overcasting Seams 5 Minutes 10. Padding Canvas 20 Minutes 12. Padding Collar 25 and up 31. Padding Lapels and Putting Bartacks on Pockets 60 Minutes 36. Felling Tape 30 Minutes 54, 59. Felling Coat and Collar, and Putting on Hanger and Label 120 Minutes 58. Making Buttonholes 35 Minutes 60. Pulling Bastings and Cleaning 25 Minutes 64. Sewing on Buttons 15 Minutes Total , 360 Minutes FIFTH GROUP— One Tailor $50.00 per week Sections 23, 24. Ripping, Pressing and Re-marking after Try-on Extra time 14, 30. Basting Fronts on Canvas 25 Minutes 26 LAY-OUTS AND SCHEDULES 33, 52. Shaping Coa-t and Collar, Cutting around Canvas, Fitting Lining and Marking inside Pockets 40 Minutes 35. Basting Tape 30 Minutes 38. Basting Facing 25 Minutes Total 120 Minutes SIXTH GROUP— One Tailor $40.00 per week Sections 21. Marking Sleeves, Making Vent and Bottom, and Basting Back Seam . . , 60 Minutes 22. Pressing Seams, Operating and Putting in Lining 60 Minutes Total 120 Minutes SEVENTH GROUP— One Tailor $45.00 per week Sections 41. Edge-Basting 40 Minutes 42. Lining-Basting 55 Minutes 43. Shoulder-Basting 10 Minutes 44. Seaming: Shoulders 15 Minutes Total 120 Minutes EIGHTH GROUP— One Tailor $45.00 per week Sections 46. Basting in Collar and Finishing on the inside. 25 Minutes 47. Working in Armholes 20 Minutes 49. Basting Sleeves 60 Minutes 50. Sewing in Sleeves by Hand 20 Minutes Total 125 Minutes 27 HANDBOOK OF TAILORING NINTH GROUP— One Tailor $45.00 per week Sections 53. Basting in Top Collar 40 Minutes 55. Basting Armholes and Putting in Wadding. . 60 Minutes 57. Cutting Buttonholes 5 Minutes 63, 66. Marking Position for Buttons and Examin- ing Coat 30 Minutes Total 135 Minutes TENTH GROUP— One Presser $50.00 per week Sections 61, 62, 65. Pressing Coat 120 Minutes GRAND TOTAL— Time of Making One Coat. . . 24 Hours EXTRA GROUP FOR TRY-ONS— One Tailor $40.00 per week Sections 15. Turning in Edges, Basting Facings, and Fore- part Linings for Try-on 40 Minutes 16. Basting Shoulders, Collar and the Seams and Bottoms of Sleeves 25 Minutes 17. Working in Armholes, Pressing them and Basting in Sleeves 40 Minutes 18. Pressing Try-on 30 Minutes 19, 20, 67, 76. Various Extras Extra Time Total 135 Minutes Total Number of Employees 15 Total Salaries $620.00 Total Production per week 24 Coats Average Cost per Coat $25.80 28 . LAY-OUTS AND SCHEDULES The Machinist and Underpresser. — It will be noted that according to the above time schedules, these two workers are not fully employed when the output is four coats a day. Any spare time that they have may ( be used in helping in any of the other sections where their services can be profitably employed. NOTES ON TIME SCHEDULES Comments on Extras. — In this time schedule it is assumed that there will be no try-ons. If there should be a try-on, sections 15, 16 and 17 must be given to an extra man. Sections 19 and 20 also are for extra work prepar- atory for try-ons, and will also be given to an extra man. Try-ons with Pockets. — Section 7 refers to try-ons with pockets. If the work of this section is done, section 26 will be omitted. If, on the other hand, the try-on is a full-baste, Section 7 will be omitted. The work of section 14 also applies to try-ons with pock- ets, and if this work is done, section 30 is omitted; but if the garment is a full-baste, both sections are required. Vents. — Section 28 makes provision for vents. This work is given to the seam-baster, who must be allowed extra time for doing it. Marking-Stitches. — Section 25 provides for marking- stitches in the case of garments which are re-cut after try-on. Other Extras. — Sections 67-76 provide for all sorts of extras, for which extra time must be allowed. Time Schedules Provide for Standard Coat. — The time schedules here given — not including the extras — pro- 29 HANDBOOK OF TAILORING o 3 Oh O Oh O 42 B < I MENS fc)±f )rovisions for increased output. The numbers correspond with peration in coat-making is carried on. It will be noted that in tie same worker. For full explanation see the accompanying No. Men 1 1 1 SECOND GROUP— Three Machinists Sections 8, 56 5, 34 27, 39 Time — One Coat 28 Minutes 25 Minutes 15 Minutes Total 68 Minutes Salary $50.00 45.00 40.00 $135.00 THIRD GROUP- No. Men Sections 1 6, 13 1 29, 32, 37 1 40, 45, 48 1 51 Totals -Three Underpressers Time — One Coat Salary 39 Minutes $40.00 30 Minutes 45.00 20 Minutes 45.00 25 Minutes 45.00 114 Minutes 37 $175.00 HANDBOOK OF TAILORING FOURTH GROUP— Twelve Girls No. Girl: > Sections Time — One Coat Salary 2 2, 4, 25, 60 55 Minutes $30.00 3 10, 12, 31 90 Minutes 60.00 1 36 30 Minutes 20.00 4 54, 59 120 Minutes 100.00 1 58 30 Minutes 30.00 1 64 Totals 15 Minutes 20.00 . . . 320 Minutes $260.00 FIFTH GROUP— Four Tailors No. Men Sections Time — One Coat Salary 1 14 or 30 25 Minutes $40.00 1 33, 52 40 Minutes 50.00 1 35 30 Minutes 40.00 1 38 25 Minutes 40.00 . . . 120 Minutes $170.00 Sections 23, 24 and 26 are attended to by the cutting depart- ment or by the foreman, when try-ons are full baste without pocket. Tailor No. 4 will have time left to help shaper. SIXTH GROUP— Three Tailors No. Men Sections Time — One Coat Salary 2 21 60 Minutes $80.00 1 22 30 Minutes 40.00 Totals 90 Minutes $120.00 SEVENTH GROUP— Four Tailors No. Men Sections Time — One Coat Salary 1 41 30 Minutes $45.00 1 42 55 Minutes 45.00 1 41,42 helps Nos. land 2 40.00 1 43, 44 25 Minutes 40.00 Totals 120 Minutes $175.00 38 LAY-OUTS AND SCHEDULES EIGHTH GROUP— Three Tailors, One Girl No. Men Sections Time — One Coat Salary 1 46, 47 40 Minutes $45.00 2 49 60 Minutes 90.00 1 Girl 50 20 Minutes 20.00 Totals 130 Minutes $155.00 NINTH GROUP— Tzvo Tailors and One Girl No. Men Sections Time — One Coat Salary 2 55 60 Minutes $90.00 2 53 40 Minutes 80.00 Totals 80 Minutes $170.00 I TENTH GROUP— Four Pressers No. Men Sections Time — One Coat Salary 3 61, 62, 65 90 Minutes $150.00 1-Try-on 18 30 Minutes 40.00 Totals 120 Minutes $190.00 The Try-on Presser will have time to press one coat, and to assist in pressing edges. EXTRA GROUP— Eight Men Salary Foreman $75.00 Assistant 60.00 One Examiner — Sections 57, 63, 66 45.00 Four Tailors for Try-ons — Sections 15, 16, 17 160.00 One All-round Man 45.00 Total Salaries $385.00 Total Number of Workers 53 Total Salaries $2,290.00 Total Coats per week 96 Average Cost per coat 23.85 39 HANDBOOK OF TAILORING CO 1 50 9) ■V,] 1 PS co 1 1 ■% I t* 1 ^J- I ** 1 • 1 <0 8 CM 3 fl 3 11 37 *0 21 21 21 22 is is / sections is done by the same person. While this is not it saves delay in moving the garments from one point to 41 HANDBOOK OF TAILORING PLAN C— A LARGE SHOP This plan gives the lay-out of a large custom-tailoring shop, 100 x 50 feet, equipped for turning out a minimum of 50 coats per day. Like Plan B it provides for increased production and additional workers when circumstances require. The diagram and accompanying explanations show the location of all workers and the apparatus used. By referring to these it will be a simple matter to lay out and equip a shop corresponding to the diagram. The Working Force. — In Plan A we had 14 workers and an output of 4 coats a day. In this larger shop we have \2y 2 times the output of the small shop, or 50 coats a day; but we do not require \2y 2 times as many workers, which would be, all told, 175. Instead, our force comprises only 132 people, 38 of whom are women. The average salary is about $30.00 a week. The salaries set down opposite the workers are those prevailing in New York City. In other parts of the country they may be consider- ably less. Salaries vary also according to prevailing economic conditions, and according to the quality of help employed. Every manager must make out his own salary list, and compute his own costs. Division of Work and Time Schedules. — In this shop we have the complete development of the Sectional Sys- tem, one or more workers being assigned to each section except where it is more economical to combine two or more sections and assign them to a group of workers as a matter of convenience and to save time. The time allowance re- mains the same on some sections as in the other plans, but in the majority of cases it is considerably less. Some oper- ations require the same time, whether the worker handles one coat or many, while in other operations much time is saved by always having a supply of garments at hand, so 42 LAY-OUTS AND SCHEDULES that no worker loses time in waiting for somebody to pass the work to him. Time is saved also through the added skill acquired by the worker in doing the same kind of work continuously and not shifting from one job to another. Saving on Labor Costs. — It will be noted that the average cost per coat is reduced in this plan to $18.16, even at the high wages taken as a basis, which is about $6.00 less than in Plan B, and which in turn was about $2.00 less than in Plan A. This is a perfectly logical out- come of the system, for the reason that all the low grade work is done by low-priced labor, and the distribution of work is such as to eliminate all loss of time. The following schedule gives in full the time allowed for each of the sectional operations on a single garment, the number of workers required in each of the sectional groups, and their estimated weekly salaries. GROUP ONE— Eleven Tailors Sections Time — One Coat No. Men Salaries 1 39 Minutes 4 $160.00 3, 11 20 Minutes 2 90.00 9 20 Minutes 2 80.00 7, 28 29 Minutes 3 135.00 GROUP TWO— Seven Machinists 5 5 Minutes 1 40.00 8 19 Minutes 2 100.00 27 9 Minutes 1 40.00 34 19 Minutes 2 90.00 39, 56 9 Minutes 1 50.00 GROUP THREE — Eleven Under pressers 6 20 Minutes 2 90.00 .'13 19 Minutes 2 80.00 43 HANDBOOK OF TAILORING 29 10 Minutes 32 9 Minutes 37 15 Minutes 40, 45 9 Minutes 48 9 Minutes 51 25 Minutes 2 45.00 40.00 45.00 40.00 40.00 90.00 GROUP FOUR—Thirty- six Women 2, 4, 25 25 Minutes 10 19 Minutes 12 25 Minutes 31 55 Minutes 36 25 Minutes 54, 59 120 Minutes 58 29 Minutes 60 25 Minutes 64 13 Minutes 3 2 3 6 3 12 3 2 2 45.00 40.00 60.00 120.00 60.00 300.00 90.00 30.00 40.00 GROUP FIVE- — Ten Tailors 14, 30 20 Minutes 33, 52 29 Minutes 35 29 Minutes 38 19 Minutes 2 3 3 2 80.00 140.00 120.00 80.00 GROUP SIX— Nine Tailors 21 58 Minutes 22 29 Minutes 6 3 270.00 120.00 GROUP SEVEN— Eight Men; One Woman 41 30 Minutes 3 135.00 42 46 Minutes 4 180.00 43 9 Minutes 1 40.00 44 10 Minutes 1 woman 20.00 GROUP EIGHT— Thirteen Tailors 46 25 Minutes 2 90.00 47 15 Minutes 1 40.00 49 58 Minutes 6 270.00 50 19 Minutes 2 women 40.00 44 LAY-OUTS AND SCHEDULES GROUP NINE— Nine Men; Two Women 53 39 Minutes 4 160.00 55 - 58 Minutes 6 men 270.00. 57 5 and up all-round man 45.00 63, 66 19 Minutes 2 men 90.00 GROUP TEN— Eight Pressers 61 10 Minutes 1 40.00 62, 65 85 Minutes 7 350.00 EXTRA GROUP— Fourteen Try-on Makers 15 40 Minutes 4 160.00 16 25 Minutes 3 120.00 17 40 Minutes 4 160.00 18 25 Minutes 3 pressers 120.00 Manager and Assistants Manager $100.00 Two Assistants 120.00 All-round Man 45.00 Office Assistant 25.00 Total Number of Workers 142 Total Salaries $5,450.00 Total Production 300 Coats Average Cost per Coat $18.16 In this shop it will be the duty of one of the assistant foremen to inspect the work of the machinists and basters as far as and including the lining-basters. The second assistant will manage the work from this point until the completiotn of the garment. The resulting average cost shows clearly the great advantage of running a full-sized shop with a full com- plement of workers. The time allowances provide for the very highest grade of custom work. But if it is desired to introduce certain modifications properly belonging to- factory methods, costs may be still further reduced. 45 HANDBOOK OF TAILORING PLAN C— ADAPTED TO FACTORY METHODS If it is desired to produce a lower-priced grade of coats than has been provided for in the previous plan, many of the sectional operations there given may be omit- ted altogether, and the time for performing certain others materially reduced. Garments will be cut in sizes and quantities, as well as the canvases, fittings, etc. Basting will be largely omitted, and machine-stitching will take place of hand work. A greater number of skilled machin- ists will be employed, who can do the machine work with- out basting. More machines will be used for under- pressing. In this way a large proportion of the female help can be dispensed with. The following is a complete schedule for the operation of a shop on this plan. The daily production will be placed at 50 coats a day in order to facilitate compafsion with the previous plan. GROUP ONE— One Tailor Sections Time Workers Salaries 1 5 1 $45.00 3, 7, 9, 28 (omitted) Under this plan one fitter can handle 100 coats a day. All basting is omitted. The breast pockets are made by machine. Canvases are furnished ready-made. GROUP TWO— Five Machinists Sections Time Workers Salaries 5 (omitted) 8 19 2 $150.00 27 9 1 40.00 34 19 1 45.00 39, 56 9 1 50.00 46 LAY-OUTS AND SCHEDULES Section 5 is omitted as canvases are ready-made. One or more additional operators will be needed for sewing in sleeves; his salary is estimated at $50.00 a week. GROUP THREE — Three Underpressers 6, 13, 29, 32, 40, 45, 48, 51. As the work of these sec- tions is almost entirely done with machines, only three men will be required. Total salary $135.00. GROUP FOUR — Thirteen Women; One Machinist Sections Time Workers Salaries 2 9 1 $20.00 54, 59 60 7 175.00 58 29 2 60.00 60 15 1 15.00 64 15 2 40.00 The remaining sections of this group, 4, 10, 12, 25, 31 and 36, are done by one skilled machinist — $60.00. GROUP FIVE— Three Tailors Sections Time Workers Salaries 14,30 9 1 $40.00 33,52 9 1 50.00 38 9 1 40.00 Worker in section 38 will have time to help in section 42 of Group Six. GROUP SIX— One Tailor Sections Time Workers Salaries 21, 22 9 1 $40.00 47 HANDBOOK OF TAILORING GROUP SEVEN— Three Tailors 41 20 2 90.00 42 15 1 45.00 43 (omitted) 44 (done by machinist who works in 39, 56) GROUP EIGHT— Four Tailors 46 19 1 45.00 47, 49 (done by machinist) 53 19 2 90.00 GROUP NINE— Three Tailors 50 (done by machinist) 55 19 2 90.00 57 (done by all-around man) 63,66 9 1 45.00 t. GROUP TEN— Eight Pressers 18 (omitted) 61 9 1 40.00 62 55 6 330.00 65 9 1 55.00 Manager and Assistants Manager $100.00 Two Assistants 120.00 One All-around Man 45.00 One Office Assistant 25.00 Total Number of Employees 50 Total Salaries $2,125.00 Total Production per week 300 Coats Average Cost per Coat $7.00 48 PART III. The Sections in Detail SECTION I Cutting Canvas. — Cut canvas as illustrated in Dia- gram 1, placing the straight weave of the' canvas upon the crease of the lapel. This method will make the canvas over the body bias. The shoulder-piece should also be cut bias according to the weave as shown in Diagram 1. Fitting Facings on Stripes and Plaids. — On striped materials the facings should be cut so that the stripes run straight with the edges of the lapels. The distance of the stripe from the edge of the lapel should be the same on both sides. If the material is plaided, the distance of the plaids from the edge of the lapel must be the same on both sides from the top down, as in the case of stripes. It is very offensive to see stripes or plaids out of symmetry. These details should be strictly attended to by the cutter, but the tailor who does the fitting should also attend to this matter. How to Fit Linings. — In fitting the linings, do not fit them flat on the table, except as provided in Section 33, for if you do this there will be too much lining in front of armhole, after it is basted in. Many tailors today make this mistake. The correct method is to fit the lining after 49 HANDBOOK OF TAILORING Diagram 1 — Cutting Canvas and Haircloth. 50 THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL Diagram 2. Cutting Canvas and Haircloth. This diagram shows patterns laid on the canvas and haircloth in the proper position for cutting. The canvas pattern, on the right of the diagram, is intended for a very chesty and corpulent figure where a reducer is worn. The hair- cloth pattern, on the left, will serve for any figure. The slanting white line crossing the diagram shows where the canvas is to be cut. One piece is then reversed and laid over the other so that both foreparts may be cut at the same time. The separate shoulder-piece at the top is laid on the canvas so that the rounded side will come out bias. The canvas should be notched, as indicated on the pattern so that it may easily be matched to the shoulder. The collar pattern is shown in the upper right-hand corner. The front of the collar is laid along the selvage of the canvas in order to have the canvas bias, and so keep the front gorge from stretching. The figures 1, 2, 3, and 4 indicate oval wedges to be taken out, the length and width of the wedges to be proportionate to the size of the body. The dotted lines indicate where the haircloth is to go. The dotted line indicated by 5 shows how far the haircloth is to go for a stationary front. The pattern for this front is shown in numbers 9 to 10 in the lower left-hand corner, where it is placed on the haircloth in the proper position for cutting. The notches are given for matching the shoulder-piece to the shoulder. The six slits show how the haircloth is to be cut into with the weave and not across the hair. CAUTION : If the shoulder-piece should be cut as shown at number 8 (which is often done), it would be WRONG, as the rounded edge would be straight where it should be bias. The dotted line at 6 shows how far the haircloth should come on a soft roll. This pattern is shown at 7 placed on the haircloth in the proper position for cutting out. The shoulder-piece also is shown, the white notches indicating where it is to be matched to the shoulder. The size of this pattern is shown between the 51 HANDBOOK OF TAILORING Diagram 2 — Cutting canvas. The shoulder-piece is shown at the top. The rounded side should be cut bias. The "fish" to be taken out of the shoulder is located by measuring 1 inch down from the gorge, and from 3 to 3j4 inches down from top of arm. 52 THE SECTIONS IN DETAIE dotted lines where the shoulder-piece is placed on the canvas in the upper part of the diagram. the forepart has been basted on canvas and pressed into shape. Sew the underarm seam in lining, and then place this seam accurately on top of the underarm seam of the cloth, taking care to provide for sufficient length over the chest. Turn the lining at the top of the shoulder toward the front of arm. If the lapel has a curve at the edge, press the facing back so as to have the stripes run in line with the edges. In silk linings that have a diagonal weave, if the bias strips are cut double, one of the strips will wrinkle and will look as if it had been put on too long, thus pro- ducing a corkscrew effect. To avoid this defect the strips should be cut from a single layer of silk straight across the diagonal stripe. If the silk is not diagonal, it is necessary, to make sure that the binding will not wrinkle, to give a sample to the operator to try out. Linings for try-ons should be cut large enough to be refitted afterward by the same fitter or shaper. SECTION II MARKING-STITCHES The marking-stitches of side seams, and also of the edges should be ^4 of an inch in length, but on shoulders, and on all other curves and hollows, they should be y% of an inch long with a loop. It is necessary to use scissors without points to split the marking-stitches. In this oper- ation, lift one side of the cloth, opening up no more than the necessary length to cut through with the scissors, thus leaving on both sides the necessary length of marking thread. 53 HANDBOOK OF TAILORING Diagram 3— Showing the Method of Putting in Marking- Stitches as described in Section II. 54 THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL This work can easily be done by a girl or boy appren- tice, who should be cautioned not to cut the material. SECTION III BASTER FIRST OPERATION In basting underarm or side-body seams from the pocket up to the hollow of the waist, where a notch is very Diagram A — Basting Underarm Seam from Pocket up to Hollow of Waist as Described in Section III 55 HANDBOOK OF TAILORING necessary, both sides should be exactly equal in length. The length of both sides should also be equal from the said notch up to within three inches below the armhole. At this point another notch is necessary. From this second notch up to the armhole, the side body should be from }i to 34 of an i nc h shorter than the forepart for this reason. In front of the arms is a muscular prominence, and back of the arm is the shoulder blade, while between the two is Diagram 5 — Basting Underarm Seam from "Second Notch" up to the Armhole, as described in Section III. 56 THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL a hollow. Therefore putting in the side body short gives a clean fit under the arm. Pressing the surplus in and forward gives room over the muscular prominence and shoulder blade. Linings on flaps and welts should be basted, and then passed over to the operator. SECTION IV OVERCASTING SEAMS The seams in materials that ravel easily, should be overcast, either with silk of the same color or with white basting cotton. Care should be taken not to make stitches too deep, and thus interfere with, or show at the seam. SECTION V MACHINIST STITCHING CANVAS In sewing seams, 15 stitches to the inch is the required number; while in stitching edges, about 18 stitches to the inch are allowed. Some materials may require even 20 stitches. If stitches are too short on certain fine worsteds, serged or broadcloths, they are likely to cut the cloth, especially in re-sewing after alterations. SECTION VI UNDERPRESSER FIRST OPERATION In pressing all kinds of seams, the presser should be careful to place the middle of the iron exactly over the seam, so that equal length, or fullness, will be produced on both sides of the iron, and prevent either side from swing- ing in the wrong direction. This fullness must be pressed short in order to produce any line desired, and to have the drape in its proper place. Press foreparts in shape, according to the way they were cut, whether for a chesty or corpulent figure. 57 HANDBOOK OF TAILORING SECTION VII BASTER ON POCKETS SECOND OPERATION Basting on Pocket-Stay.— The stay should not be wider than \y 2 inches and, for a skeleton coat, should be of the same material as the pocket. If the garment is to be made up in skeleton form, the stay must be 2 inches in width, so that it can be sufficiently turned in and felled to the bellows pocket, instead of to the forepart. Thus the coat will look as if it were fully lined. A hanging pocket covered with silk may be made on the same principle. Basting for Sewing. — The baster who bastes on flaps and pocket-facings makes the welt and breast pocket also, and bastes them for the machine-stitching. When ma- chine sewing is done, the baster should baste the pockets and tack the breast-pocket. On second class work the operator sews on flaps, breast-pockets, and facing without basting. He does the stitching also without basting. Great care should be taken in stitching pockets, particu- larly the right one, as the machine is liable to push the cloth forward below the flap of the pocket, causing wrin- kle in front of flap, especially where a front fish has been taken out in the forepart. To avoid this break, have the pocket stay basted a trifle shorter in the front part of right pocket, while on the left pocket the stay should be kept a trifle shorter in the.backpart of pocket. If this precaution is taken, any fullness at the back of pocket near the flap will be avoided, and the forepart in front of the pocket will be smooth without any break or wrinkle. 58 THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL Diagram 3 — Pressing Seams. This cut illustrates the correct method of pressing seams as described in Section VI. 59 HANDBOOK OF TAILORING SECTION VIII MACHINIST SECOND OPERATION Stitching Pockets. — Before stitching- around pockets, particularly on the right forepart, pull the part of the pocket under the flap toward the back. The upper part of pocket with flap must be pulled forward as this also helps to prevent a break in front of flap, as explained in the previous Section. This mentioned defect often occurs at the back of the left side pocket. Great care must be taken to have pockets adjusted so that the stripes run straight, before sewing pockets together. SECTION IX BASTING HAIRCLOTH ON CANVAS Cutting Haircloth. — For stationary front, place the haircloth on top of canvas, keeping it full over the chest, with the edge of the haircloth about Yi inch away from the crease of lapel; baste through the center of haircloth on to canvas. Cut into the haircloth about two inches on each side, making three cuts in front of chest, and two cuts, or more if ncessary, at the armhole. Do not cut into the haircloth on the bias, but straight between the run of the hair, allowing one side to lap over the other as far as necessary, and then tack it to the canvas. If there is a V in the canvas, then a V should be cut in the haircloth; but if the canvas is cut with a shoulder- piece, as shown in Diagram ??, do not insert a V in the haircloth. Cut the top piece of the haircloth to correspond with the top piece of the canvas. Piece it out in the same way as you do the canvas. To secure the best results put a little strip of linen under the place where the seam will 60 THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL come and, keeping both parts, together, stitch them with zigzag stitches. Lay the shoulder forward in such a manner that the haircloth fits over the canvas. Put an extra piece of canvas over the haircloth, but not so wide as to spoil the hollow of shoulder. Cover the haircloth with felt or any other pad- ding desired. Felt is not always desirable as it makes canvas too stiff; wadding is preferable for this purpose. The wadding should be laid over in so thin a layer as merely to protect the lining from being worn out by fric- tion of the haircloth. Cover the wadding with cheese cloth on the bias; particularly over chest. Never apply cheese cloth cut on the straight, as the straight threads would hold back the chest of canvas, as if it were wired, and would prevent the shaping of chest. If flannel is used for covering the haircloth, it also must be cut on the bias. All strips that are necessary to cover edges of hair- cloth should be applied on the bias, except at crease of lapel, where it should be applied on the straight and al- lowed to run as far as crease of lapel, so that it may be padded together with lapels and thus prevent a break be- tween the crease of lapel and haircloth. For soft roll, do not carry the haircloth as far as to the middle of the canvas, as this would cause a break be- tween lapel and haircloth. A piece of haircloth about three inches in width and four inches in length is sufficient for a soft-roll at the front of armhole, where sleeve is creased, to prevent a break. However, the haircloth may run over the shoulder if desired. 61 HANDBOOK OF TAILORING To get the best result on canvas when the top piece is cut separate, sew the pieces of canvas together, cut the haircloth to correspond in the bias, sew this together and manage to have the seam of haircloth close to the seam of canvas, lay it forward and see that one piece is not short and the other one long, then baste through the center the way I described in basting on haircloth. SECTION X PADDING STITCHES The stitches should be J / 2 inch in length. Around the armhole they should run in the same direction as the line of the armhole, so that in case the armhole is cut out the stitches will not be disturbed. Pad shoulder part sepa- rately, and hold canvas in such position that shoulders will roll, and the canvas underneath will be smooth when padded. SECTION XI BASTING SEAMS FOR TRY J ON For try-on, seams may be basted and lapped over and basted again on the outside. However, it is a preferable and a cleaner method to baste seams with stitches no longer than 14 of an inch in length, press them open, and shape them in the same way as seams are treated when finishing the garment after try-on. (See Section 6.) SECTION XII PADDING COLLAR The stitches may be % of an inch in length, and should not be too far apart. The lines of padding should run straight with the crease of the collar. On the corners 62 THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL the canvas should go in full enough so as to allow the cor- ners of the collar to roll inward. On the collar stand the stitches may also run straight with the crease, but if the stand of collar is cut exactly as high as it is to remain, the stitches may run perpendicularly with the collar stand. The collar stand may also be stitched with a machine, and this method makes a firm stand. Diagram 7 — Padding Stitches. This cut illustrates the correct method of putting in padding stitches as described in Section X. 63 HANDBOOK OF TAILORING SECTION XIII UNDERPRESSER SECOND OPERATION Pressing Canvas and Seams. — Press shoulders for- ward on canvas, and shape the canvas according to the way it was cut, whether for a chesty or a corpulent figure. On the forepart about an inch and one-half down from the shoulder-point at the neck, the cloth should be stretched a Diagram 8 — Showing the method of putting padding stitches in collar running parallel with crease, as described in Section XII. trifle straight up with the weave of the cloth or the stripe. This will swing the shoulder forward without disturbing the direction of the stripes. But the designer must esti- mate the amount of stretching properly so that the strap does not become too long and the armhole too deep. SECTION XIV BASTING FRONTS ON CANVAS Right Forepart. — Baste down the center as far as the pockets, and fasten breast and bottom pockets to canvas; then shove material a little backward, so that if the goods is striped, the stripes will run backward, but shove it only 64 THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL enough so they will straighten out after tape is basted on. Put left canvas on right forepart ; notch it at the shoulder point, at notch Of lapel, and finally, at the last buttonhole, so that the left forepart will be in same position on the canvas as the right one. Great attention must be given to having the stripes run straight on the canvas no matter how full-chested the figure may be. In right forepart, in front of pocket, a defect is often created by the pocket- Diagram 9 — Showing padding of the collar stand, giving different view. maker; the pocket causing a break, especially in coats where a front fish has been taken out. This must be seen to by the canvas baster, who should not baste the forepart until such defect has been rectified. SECTION XV SPECIAL BASTERS FOR TRY-ONS One or more special basters must be employed for try- ons, according to the size of the business. After the fronts are basted on the canvas, these special basters take the whole coat, turn in the edges and baste the facings and linings. In basting linings, care must be taken to place them below the hollow part of the shoulder, turning in the 65 HANDBOOK OF TAILORING Diagram 10 — Showing method of pressing shoulder as described in Section XIII. The top of the picture shows the fullness which is to be laid forward. surplus at the bottom, so that they can be raised again after try-on. This method provides for suficient length and width over the shoulder. SECTION XVI BASTING SHOULDERS AND COLLAR FOR TRY-ON Most of the fullness of shoulder seams should be near the collar. Put in sufficient cloth from the back over the 66 THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL shoulder so that the shoulder seams will fall well forward, and give ease over the shoulder bone. Put the hand in after the shoulder is basted, and pull it apart. If it draws any wrinkles from the side of the forepart on the shoulder, it is a sign that more back is required. In basting in the collar, begin to put in fullness at the back an inch from the shoulder seam and continue about an inch toward the forepart. Diagram 1 1 — Showing how collar is to be pressed. SECTION XVII BASTING IN SLEEVES FOR TRY-ON Baste in the sleeve first with a long stitch, and note whether it hangs parallel with the front edge of the coat. The fullness should be divided according to the width of the shoulder. A narrow shoulder requires the fullness at the top; but in a broad shoulder it should be placed some- what lower toward the front notch. The under sleeve should be put in full, so that it may roll over the back and permit the fullness to drape in straight lines. But if the fullness should drape in bias lines, it is a sign that the sleeve is not set in correctly. To 67 HANDBOOK OF TAILORING remedy this defect, turn the armhole and the upper sleeve inside out, and put a long basting stitch where the wrin- kles run bias; rip out the first basting, and adjust the wrinkles to run straight with the fullness evenly divided. In the under sleeve near the front seam some fullness should be placed to give ease over the muscle of the arm. This fullness should be pressed all around the armhole. SECTION XVIII PRESSING COAT FOR TRY-ON Begin at the right forepart, and press first the under- arm seam Next, press the side seams taking care not to destroy the length that was created for the shoulder-blade. Great care must be taken to press the left side exactly like the right side. Press the right shoulder seam first. Lay it at the point of the press-board, and have the shoulders go for- ward, keeping stripes straight over the back. In pressing the left shoulder, begin at the collar and lay it forward. Press the upper part of the sleeve from the front of the straight part of the armhole as far as the notch in the back. Crease the armhole, and then press the crease together so hard that the under-sleeve will roll over without show- ing any length or wrinkle at the back of the arms. Press right forepart first. At the front of the arm press it a trifle short and forward to the middle of the chest. Press the front all the way down in such a way that the stripes shall run straight, and so as not to destroy the shape of the waist line. 68 THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL Press the left forepart in the same manner as the right, but do not crease the edges at the bottom too hard, in case it should afterward be necessary to take out the marks of pressing. Roll the bottom corners toward the inside. Press the collar on the left side first, and handle the shoulder so that it will go forward. The middle of the collar at the center seam should be kept straight. On the sides below the shoulder seam, the collar should be kept somewhat hollow in order to have a good line, with- out a scoop or a hunch, in front of the collar seam. Press the outside of the lapels gently so as not to crease the edges too hard and thus make it more difficult to take out the creases after try-on. SECTIONS XIX, XX These sections provide for extras which may be re- quired for try-ons, such as a full lining, or a cover basted over delicate fabrics like white flannel or silk. SECTIONS XXI, XXII SLEEVE-MAKING If there are no notches in front seam of sleeves, notch about 3 inches down from top, also about 3 inches up from bottom, and allow about Y% of an inch more of undersleeve to go in between the two notches than of top sleeve. Notch the sleeve at the back in the same manner, and give the top sleeve a fullness of 54 mc ^ between the two notches. Sew the front seam of sleeve from the top sleeve, so that the fullness of the under sleeve will be equally dis- 69 HANDBOOK OF TAILORING tributed between the top and bottom notches. In pressing the front seam of sleeves, the under sleeve should be laid flat on the board the way it was cut, and care should be taken not to destroy the hollow shape of the sleeve. Press the seam open, and do not go with the iron into the top sleeve farther than one and one-half inches. This will preserve the hollow of the front of the top sleeve. Press the other part of the sleeve smooth, removing the wrinkles created by pressing the front seam. Mark the vent according to the instructions on ticket, and mark the bottom for turn-in. Baste in wiggin at bot- tom, allowing at least a half inch to turn in with the cloth, in order to provide for lengthening the sleeve without piecing out the wiggin. The wiggin must be fastened to inside of turn-in with padding stitches. An extra piece of lining, cut on the straight, should be put in the top sleeve at the vent in order to keep the edge of the vent firm and straight. If the corner of the vent is to be rounded, the inside lining and wiggin should be cut out at the point so that the corner will not be too thick. Press vent and bottom flat from the inside. Baste the back seam and allow a scant quarter of an inch from the top sleeve to go in between the two notches. Stitch the back seam of sleeve, and stitch the sleeve-lining, fulling in a little at the front seam of the under-sleeve ; in like manner, when stitching the back seam, full in the top sleeve a trifle. In the fulling in at a seam, place the long part underneath. By this means the feed of the ma- chine will take up the fullness uniformly. It is of course understood that we cannot put as much fullness in the lining as in the cloth. 70 THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL Press back seam of sleeve as far as the vent. Do not cut into the outlet of the under sleeve, but turn it back from five to six inches and press it flat. The cutting should be avoided in order that the sleeve may be let out at the bottom if needed. The seams of the lining may be pressed to one side and not open. Press so that the top sleeve laps over the under sleeve. Baste in the lining leaving a fullness between the notches dividing it equally on front and back seam alike. Allow enough lining at bottom sleeve to provide for lengthening. Invert the sleeve and baste around at the top about four inches down deep enough so as not to inter- fere when basting in the sleeves. In cutting off the sleeve-lining at the top, allow three- eighths of an inch, gradually increasing the allowance to three-fourths of an inch at the front seam, and also under the arm, and decreasing gradually to meet at the top sleeve. This length is necessary to avoid shortness when the arm- hole is closed and creased. The felling of the sleeve-lining at the bottom should be done by girls at the time that the coat is felled, and the buttonholes should be done by the girls who do this work. SECTION XXIII RIPPING AND PRESSING AFTER TRY-ON In ripping and pressing parts flat after try-on, in the case of a coat fully basted and without pockets, it is diffi- cult in some materials to remove the creases by merely wetting and pressing. In such cases turn the iron on the side and cover it with a wet cloth. Place the material so that the crease is over the cloth and iron, and let the steam come through the cloth until it softens the goods at the 71 HANDBOOK OF TAILORING crease. Hammer the crease with a brush and stretch the goods apart until the crease disappears. Then remove the goods from the iron and press on the wrong side until dry. SECTION XXIV RE-MARKING AFTER TRY-ON Re-marking after try-on, on a full baste, is to be done by the cutter. If the pockets are in, and the canvas re- mains in the fore-part after try on, the edges should be pressed smooth and re-marked by the foreman or by the man who is assigned to handle the garment after return- ing from try-on. The stripes at the front edges between the buttonholes should in most cases run straight; if, however, the garment is for a very corpulent figure it is preferable for the stripes to run a little toward the top button, as this tends to disguise the appearance of corpu- lency. SECTION XXV MARKING-STITCHES AFTER TRY-ON The instructions for making marking-stitches are the same as already given in Section 2. For the sake of con- venience they are repeated here. Marking stitches for side seams, as well as on edges, should be }i of an inch in length, whereas on shoulders and all other curves and hollows, stitches are to be y% of an inch in length with a loop. It is necessary to use scis- sors without a point to split the marking stitches. To split stitches lift one side of cloth, opening up no more than the necessary length to cut through with scissors, thus leaving on either side the necessary length of marking thread. 72 THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL This part of the work is generally done by a girl or ? boy apprentice who should be cautioned not to cut material. SECTION XXVI BASTER ON POCKETS The stay should not be wider than \y 2 inches, and should be of linen. If, however, the garment is of the skeleton type, the stay must be of the same material as the pocket, and two inches wide, so that it can be turned in and felled to the bellows pocket instead of to the forepart. Thus the coat will look as if it were fully lined. A hanging pocket of silk may be made on the same principle. The baster who bastes on flaps and pocket facing should also make the welt and breast pocket, and baste for machine-stitching. When machine-sewing is used the baster should baste the pockets and tack the breast-pocket. On second class work the operator sews on flaps, breast-pockets, and facing, without basting. He also does the stitching without basting. Great care should be taken in stitching pockets, especially the right one, as the machine is liable to push the cloth below the flap of pocket forward, causing a break in front of flap, espe- cially where a front fish has been taken out in the fore- part. To avoid this break, have the pocket-stay basted a trifle shorter in the front part of right pocket, while on the left pocket the stay should be kept a trifle shorter in the back part of pocket. SECTION XXVII MACHINIST THIRD OPERATION The full directions for stitching pockets have been given in Section VIII, and they apply in every particular to this Section. The work called for in this Section is only performed when garments are fully basted for try-ons 73 HANDBOOK OF TAILORING without pockets. For convenience we repeat Section VIII as follows: Before stitching around pockets, particularly on the right forepart, pull the part of the pocket under the flap toward the back. The upper part of the pocket with flap must be pulled forward, as this also helps to prevent a break in front of flap, as explained in Section VII. This defect often occurs at the back of the left side pocket, great care must be taken to have the pockets adjusted so that the stripes run straight before sewing the pockets together. SECTION XXVIII MAKING VENTS IN BACK If there are two vents, the outlet of side seams on the foreparts should not be cut in, but seams should be pressed open down to the opening of the vent; then, instead of cutting into the cloth, lap outlet over in a bias direction so as not to destroy the seam where it has been pressed open. Where there is a center vent only, the cloth may be cut 4into on the right side, and the stay-tape should be con- tinued from 3 to 4 inches above the opening of the vent ; otherwise the vent would spread open. The stay-tape should also be applied to side vents, but should be con- tinued 2 inches instead of 4 above opening of the same. SECTION XXIX THE UNDERPRESSER Before shaping it must be observed whether the figure is a corpulent, stout, or a high chest. The description on the ticket must describe the kind of figure so that the un- derpresser can work according to instruction. 74 THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL SECTION XXX BASTING FRONTS ON CANVAS AFTER TRY-ON Take right forepart first, baste down the centre as far as the pockets and fasten breast and bottom pockets to canvas, then shove the material a little backward so that if the cloth is striped, the stripes will run backward, but only enough so that they will straighten out after the tape is basted on. Put left canvas on right forepart; notch it at shoulder point, at notch of lapel, and at the last button- hole, so that the left forepart is in same position on canvas as the right. Great attention must be given to having the stripes run straight on the canvas no matter how full- chested the figure may be. In right forepart, in front of pocket, a defect is created in most cases by the pocket- maker; the pocket causing a break, especially in coats where a front fish has been taken out. This must be seen to by the canvas baster. He should not baste the forepart until the defect is rectified. The work described in this Section will not be neces- sary unless the coat is made without pockets before try-on. SECTION XXXI PADDING LAPELS In padding lapels, the stitches should not be more than % of an inch in length, and the cloth should be caught with every stitch; but stitches should not go all the way through and show on the right side of the cloth, nor should they be pulled too tight. 75 HANDBOOK OF TAILORING SECTION XXXII UNDERPRESSER FOURTH OPERATION Press lapels. Press chest into shape keeping the stripes straight. In every operation care must be taken to have shoulders pressed forward and not to stretch the gorge. SECTION XXXIII SHAPING COAT Duties of Shaper. — The shaper must have a thor- ough knowledge of tailoring, and also have good taste. It is his business to rectify the mistakes of the canvas-baster. Rules for Shaping. — To shape coat apply the lapel shaper, and if necessary, the forepart pattern. Mark crease of lapel; cut around canvas, crease lapels before basting on the tape to make sure that edges of lapels are not too short. Creases of lapels should be allowed to remain during the progress of work on the garment whether a stationary front or a soft roll. On soft roll the creases must be removed by presser when garment is fin- ished. If these instructions are followed the lapel will not pull, but fall into the place where it should go. The reason for creasing a soft-roll and afterward re- moving it is to prevent one lapel rolling down farther than the other. By creasing both lapels equally the canvas takes a partial break that will not come out, and the lapels will always fall as far as that break and no farther. The crease in the cloth, however, will come out in the pressing. In fitting the linings for very fine work, the instruc- tions given in Section I should be followed, "not to fit them flat on the table," etc., and the fitting should be done 76 THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL by the shaper, after he receives the garment from the underpresser for shaping lapels. He should prepare facings, mark the inside breast pocket, and hand it to the foreman or operator directly, so that the pockets may be put in by the time the tape- baster and felling-hands have completed their work. In garments where the facing is bound, it should not be stitched to the lining. The main reason for binding the facing is that it may be opened up whenever required, for the purpose of making some little alteration, such as re- ducing surplus in haircloth or canvas, or adding a piece of padding or to secure greater fullness in the lining, for which a surplus has been left under the facing. In moderate-priced work, the fitter fits the linings at the outset, and these precautions may be omitted and the lining fitted flat of the table. All this work of fitting linings may be done by the regular fitter, if patterns have been prepared for him from linings fitted out according to the instructions which have been given above for the shaper. Patterns of this sort can be cut from garments made up in any style, and graded in sizes. Position of Breast Pocket. — One can fit lining in bet- ter when the inside breast pocket is made to go as far as the facing. If the pocket must go into the facing, baste facing over that part so that breast-pocket can be put in. Wherever forepart is broad enough, arrange to have breast pocket go as far as the facing only. 77 HANDBOOK OF TAILORING SECTION XXXIV MACHINIST FOURTH OPERATION If facing is bound, put in the breast pocket and do not stitch facing on to lining. If the facing is not bound, seam facing on to the lining, taking care to have sufficient length over chest. Put in breast pocket. SECTION XXXV BASTING ON TAPE Baste tape first at crease of lapel, as far down as edge ; at the neck let the tape extend an inch longer above seams, so that it may be fastened to the collar when collar is sewed in. For the edges, start tape about one inch above crease of lapel. Keep tape loose at the points and over round of lapels, so that the edges of lapels do not get too short. Where lapel turns over (at the first buttonhole) the tape should be held loose. From first buttonhole to the last it should be held even, and below the last buttonhole, toward the bottom, it should be held tight enough to straighten the stripes which have been basted backward for that purpose. At the round of corner, hold tape some- what loose, and from the point where the round of the corner ends, as far as the line where the pocket starts, it should be kept a trifle tight, so that the corners will roll toward the inside; toward the back keep the tape even. SECTION XXXVI FELLING TAPE Do not let the needle go through the cloth, the stitches must be taken in the cloth, and should not be pulled so tight that they make holes in the edges when finished. 78 THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL SECTION XXXVII UNDERPRESSER FIFTH OPERATION In pressing tape, begin at the buttonhole and work down. Put lapel on press block, and press in such a way that the tape does not get short on edges with the pressing. If an oval effect at crease of lapel is desired, it can be obtained by holding the tape tight at edge of lapel and pressing short. On the other hand, if a straight or some- what hollow effect is desired, the tape must be held loose on the edges, and the presser must be careful not to press tape short to secure an oval or hollow effect. It often happens that in cases where the customer desires to have the crease either straight or somewhat hollow, this result is not secured for the reason that the tape is basted short at the edges by the tape-baster, pressed short by the Diagram 12 — Pressing tape on half-moon block as described in Section XXXV. 79 HANDBOOK OF TAILORING presser, and as a consequence, the facing is basted on short by the facing-baster. SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR HOLLOW LAPELS If an extremely hollow effect is desired, a fish is to be taken out of the canvas, its width will depend upon the degree of hollow. The curve of the hollow must extend from the collar seam to the buttonhole. The cloth also must be treated to produce a hollow effect. The following method has been found to give satisfactory results : Assuming that the crease of the lapel is straight, let us mark, midway between the gorge and the first button, the amount of hollow wanted. Then draw a curved line along Diagram 13 — Showing how the lapel is placed for creasing. 80 THE SECTIONS IN DETAIL *' r\ V CJ *-* • .-* o o nj TJ J3 v_, CI J •— ' (/> cu (" J CD ■(-J rt Uh c; n! CJ ^^ _ri u en s