■K7? A LEW SYSTEM FOR INSTRUCTION IN THE AET AUB SCIEHCE «f GARMEMT CHTTIfflG, VOli ALJ. 11 IK \' ' I \mn mum ^^ *'^"^ 'mimH m i > v . -4^ BY A^TJC^USTUS KOCtl. ILLUSTI^A^ED BY K 1 F 1' I-; ]'•, N PL/VTES OF FrXKLY R.VflK,AVI^]f) DIAdHA^IS A?^l) P[(IIIRF.S, WITH Fl'LI. INSTRU(rrU)N8 KOH I)KAFTIN(V THE VARIOiyS STYLES OF COATS. VESTS ANT> PANTTS. POUdUKKFA'sl E. y. \ 1 8 8 ;i . mtim 111 aiiE t) fi^l^i^^ FOR INSTRUCTION IN THE AET MB SCraCE o^ UMIWEIT CUTTIIG. FOR ALL Tlie Yarious Foni]s of tl^e ^umar] Body. BY ^XJGMJSTXJS KOCH. IliLUSTI^ATED BY FIFTEEN ■6 ioiict' /) PLATES OF FINELY ENGIUYED DIA(}KAMS AND EIGUEES, WITH FULL INSTRUCTIONS FOR DRAFTING THE VARIOUS STYLES OF COATS, VESTS AND PANTS. POUGIIKEEPSIE, N. Y. : 18 8 3. Entered accordinn- to Act of Congress in the year 1883, by AUGUSTUS KOCH, In the office of the LilMarum of Congress at Washington, D. C. '1 Ji- ^'^^^ This impoved volume, which is introduced by these few lines, is in reality the Second Edition of the Author" s celebrated System pulished in 1876, then entitled " The Cutters' Centennial Guide,'' which is so extensively and successfully used in almost every State of the Union. This Volume, therefore, is intended to unfold the NEW DiscovEKiE'^ and imi'kovkmexts since then made, in as tinely illustrated fashion as the subject will permit or the Author can present it. That a new departure and radical changes are disseminated in the professional Art of Cutting, need not be argued at this time, for the present work will bear the scrutinizing eye of the candid artist, who will find unfolded to his untiring vision THE MOST SCIENTIFIC PiioiJLEM Bver devel- oped by any author of systems of Garment Cut- ting. In this Volume will be found the grand com- bination of the two great principles upon which true Garment Cutting is founded, which are Simplification and Accuracy ; and the ground PLAN underlying these principles comprises Ac- tual Measurement and Direct Application of the measures to the Draft as taken from the Body. The wonderful invention by the Author of the ONE GRAND NEW MEASURE called " Shoiilder Regulator," and its direct application to the draft as taken from the Body — in connection with tJiree other measures (Front, Back and Waist Balance,) which are all taken from one jjoint, — never fail, if correctly taken, to produce a well-fitting garment, and accomplish the good result for all the various forms of the human body. Tlie Work is original in all the general details introduced, both in the Description given, and in the accompanying fifteen Plates of Illustration. The TWO Figures show the different points and application of the tape-measure ; the Dia- grams the drafting ; and the Description ex- plains the whole in a clear and thorougli man- ner, so that any Cutter of ordinary talent can use the System at once, and with full success. And, furthermore, the Y'OUNG man who does not understand Cutting at all, can learn it easily from the instruction given in the book, without a personal instructor or teacher. The Author claims that he has brought out and developed, in condensed form, a true and re- liable WORK ON Garment Cutting, — as only STUDY' and experience can offer and produce. In conclusion, the Author advises all those who intend to study and practice these new principles to lay aside all prejudice and follow out the instruction as herein given ; and if you thus do, COMPLETE SUCCESS will follow, and you will become a hearty indorser of this valualile Work. G^XfJTION. To all whom it may concern : Notice is hereby given to all persons in whose handw a copy of this work may be placed, that the publisher is the sole proprietor and vender, according to the laws of the United States of America ; and any person or persons who attempt to publish, or have it published, in whole or in part, or teach others from the illustrations and instructions herein contained, will hold themselves liable to heavy penalties. And, further, it is understood that this work is not transferable to a third party without a written consent from the publisher, which consent will be attached to the work so transferred ; |and for any violation thereof, proceed- ings will be commenced at once against all such offenders. THE GUTTER AND GUIDE. F^P^f^aa^iCll^Ex FliMT^S IX K]:(iAED TO Measurement and Position of the Customer. JT[HE Measukement of Gakments is a subject -JL which brings before us an extensive sphere of important matters on which a large volume might be written ; but it is not my intention to do so. The only desii'e that I have is, to impress the important subject, which is so worthy of study and consideration, on the mind of the Cut- ter who may use this System. I do not mean by this (or even attempt to do so,) to instruct the skilful Artist wlio has had many years of practi- cal experience in the profession of Cutting, — he knows all this. It is, therefore, not this class of men which I try to instruct, but it is the young, inexperienced Cutter for whom the subject is in- tended. We tind many things in regard to measure- taking, which the Cutter may look upon as very trifling matters, — but nothing in relation to mea- surement is so trifling and insignificant as not to need full explanation. We will now begin, and show some of these trifling things, l)ut which are sufficient to produce misflts and alterations whereby hundreds of dol- lars may be lost evei-y year. The flrst one which we will mention is, talk- ing TO the customer while you are TAKIN(J HIS measures. Let it be understood between jou and your em- ployer, or whosoever takes down the measures, not to talk to the customer (if it can be avoided) while you are taking his measures. Nothing is more annoying to the Cutter and injurious to his work than this trifling matter. Now, should you want my reason for this, I will simply state : — when, talking is going on, the customer will twist and move about, and consequently will get out of his natural j^osition. The second hint is : that every Cutter, no mat- ter what system he may have, ox use, should have his regular fixed points on the body, from which the tape measure has to be applied ; and so long as these points are correct once, and hold good in all cases and forms of the body, and the measures from those points will produce the cor- rect draft, he should stick close to them, and not jump from one experiment to auotlier. AVe find many Cutters who are like grasshoppers, jumj)- ing from one point to another — experimenting in a different measurement for every coat — and are never successful in cutting. The third practical hint is : We should take all the i^riucipal measures which are necessary to produce a correct di'aft for the form of body — but beyond this, all the proof or check mea- sures should be avoided. Those measures will do more harm than good to the Cutter. Fourth : All the necessary measures should be taken without instrument, and with tajie only. It is a well known fact, that there are systems of garment cutting wherein an almost endless a- mount of measures have to betaken, and to pro- duce them the Cutter must use a measuring sqi^are or measuring machine in which the cus- tomer is placed, like a horse in harness. Now, this is not alone the most disagreeable thing for customer and Cutter, but it is also the worst thing ever invented, because more Idunders are made with this class of instruments than we can imagine. The fifth practical hint is: That all these measures which may l)e necessary for any one system should be taken correctly and with utmost care, so that they will give the actual amount which the body calls for ; and in not doing so, we find the cause why some cutters will get in trouble more or less, and then discard their Sys- tem and fly to a new one. Now this is a great mistake : — failure and trouble must occur with the best System, if a careless measurement is taken. It stands to reason that, should we make an error in the measurement, it is certain that the same error will be made in the draft. And, again, if we can expect a good fitting garment at all, it necessarily is because we have tli e correct mea- sure by which the good fitting garment is pro- duced. This is appliable to any one System which the Cutter may use. Sixth. To accomplish the good result, and to secure a correct measiirement, — The only safe and sure plan is, that all the measures should be taken over the Vest. No doubt some Cutters will say, ' this is a very difficult matter to do.' Now every Cutter of experience must confess, that when the measures have to be taken over a bad-fitting Coat, it is the most difficult work that a cutter can un- dertake. If this is true, why, then,, should the measures taken over the Vest be more difficult than otherwise? It is certainly as easy, if not more so, as any other plan in existence. THE GUTTER AND GUIDE. The measurement over the Vest lias certain ad- vaiita.nes. Take, for instance, the Coat which is more or less wadded, yes, some, we must say, are stuffed out with wadding, — now, then, is it possi- ble for any one to ascertain the real amount which the Body actually calls for i while, on the other hand, by taking the measures over the Vest, nothing will interfere, and we will have just so much — no more, no less. Again : Supposing the customer is one-sided, one shouldei' lower than the other — it will not Ik- noticed when the coat is on, because the shoulder is raised iip with wadding so that it will appear level with the other. Now, if the customer does not caution the Cutter, he will discover the eiToi' when the garment is finished, and by the altera- tions whiidi must follow ; while, by taking the measures over the A'est, we have the whole fVn'm before us, and notliing will hide its defects from notice. These few remarks we deem sufficient to show the advantages of measui-ing without SQCARKand Coat. But there is another very imjiortant 2)oint that we must imi)ress upon the mind of every Cutter, which is of like imxiortance as the measurement itself, if not more so, — and this is: Before we can expect a correct measurement at all. if is ali- solutely necessary that the customer must stand in his NATURAL POSITION. We can say from ex2)erience, that in a majority of cases, where customers come to the Cutter to have their measures taken, we will tind very few stooping or disproportioned men ; e\ en tlie most stoojiing forms will stand straight, or nearly so. Now, should we establish our points and apply the tape measure to the foi'm in such an unnatu- ral positicm, it is impossible that the gaiment woulil lit when tlu-y stand in their natural shape. The cpiestion may ai-ise, how do we know if the custcmier is in his natural position; andif so, how can we avoid \t{ My answer to this cpiestion is, Take a ''quiet survey" of your customer as he enters your cutting room, and as he is looking at the fashion ]»late, oi' in any other way opportu- nity may off in- ; and by doing so, you can judge very nearly of the ligure you may have to clothe. Now, should he present himself to you in any other foi-m A\heu you ai'e ready to establish the points and take the measure, then talk to him and attract his attention to some other things, and you will soon find that he has come to terms — will sluiw, perhaps, his round slioulders, and stand in his usmil position. Supposing, now, that this be the case, we then goon and mark our Points, as illustrated by Fio- T'UE 1 and FKiiuK "2. D ATE Illustration of Points and Measurement. IpN' THIS System we have only oiu' point that ,jt; requires the iilumb line, and this }>oint we liud by Eye measure. But as we desire that the h)catiou of this jjoint shall be fully understood by all wlio nuiy use this System, we will explain it witli a ruler to tiie new beginner : Bring the Vest smoothly down to the body at the waist, and fasten it to the pants with a pin so it will stay in its jjlace. Now take a short ruler, place it against the right front arm, let it run down in a plumb line, and draw a chalk mark at D, or waist, on the same side of ruler that rests on arm. Having this line, then draw a chalk mark crossways above the hip-bone, in the most hollow part of the body, so that these two marks will show thus -}-. and we have point D, Fig- ure 2. Now make a mark lengthways in centre of back, at neck, as at A, Fig. 1. Then make a mark crossways, at a point where the top of back Fjgura 1 and Figure 2. shall join the collar, (say one inch below the top or crease of collar,) so that these marks will sliow thus +, and we have point A, Figure f. Then make a chalk mark lengthways in centre of back, as at K, thence crossing at a point al)ont one-third of top and bottom of arm, from bottom of arm up, and we have the point K, Fig. 1. It is a good plan, when the waist length is taken from A to B, to note the exact amount from A to K. Next, make a mark in centre of liack at waist, and we have poin'J' E, Figure 1. These four Ptiuts which we have now estab- lished will produce the Balance of the Coat, and therefore the Cutter should locate them with the greatest care. Having located those Points, we tlien so on to show THE MEASIIRE.^EIVT. Bring the tape on -j- A, Fig. 1; measure to K, (say PLATE, I 1^.1 Ti^ ^. \i,iV'^ -^^r D M THE GUTTER AND GUIDE. 6i inches); let it run down to B, for full length of waist, (say ISf inches), thence to C, full length of coat (say 38 inches). These three measures may be taken before your customer lias laid off his coat ; and those not experienced in measuring over the vest may adopt that plan at the begin- ning, and thus make a gradual change if they deem it advisable to do so. Xow place the tape measure on -|-) ^v^Fig. 1, and measure from tluit point, as follows : From iV, down in back in a direct line to + 1), Fig. 2, as line F, Fig. 1 indicates, (say 19i inches), and we have the Back Balance measure. Bring the tape over the front shoulder, and measure from A, down in front of arm to +l),Fig.2,(say %)\ inches), and we have the Front Balance. Extend the tape measure to I, or hand, for full lengtli of sleeve, (say 31i inches). Note : The measure for sleeve length may be taken in another form, as follows : Raise the arm in horizontal line with the body, have the elbow slightly bent. Then measure from centre of back to elbow, (say 20 inches), then to tlie hand, full length of sleeve, (say 32^ inches'). AVe leave this for the Cutter to decide whicli measure he will adopt. Having the tape measure yet in fiont of arm as before stated, then measure from A, down in front of the arm, bring the tape around under the arm in a close-titting manner, (close, but not tight), then up to the starting point A, as indicated by line Ct, Figures 1 and 2, (say 26i inches), and we have the Arm-dejitli measure. ISTow, let the tape measure rest in that position in front and under the arm, and bring the tape down on back to point K, as shown by Figure 1, (say 23i inches), and we have the Shoulder mea- sure. The Cutter will see by this, that all the above measures are taken from Point A, top of back, where the end of the tape is held witli the left hand, and witli the riglit hand we apj)ly the tape to the different points. Now bring the tape measure down on -|- D, Fig, 2, and measure to E, centre of back, as shown on Fig. 1, (say 7-| inches), and we have the Back Waist measure. Let the tape measure rest on -f T), Fig. 2, l)ring the tape up in back of arm to top of shoulder, as shown by line H, Fig. 1 and 2, and then across the acromian process, or, in other Avords, one inch from the extreme end of shoulder point, in a smooth-fitting man- ner, then down in front of arm to the starting point + D, (say 31 inches), and we have the grand new measure called THE NHOILDER RECil LATOR. Note : Before taking this measure, see that your customer's shoulder is down in natural po- sition, not raised or drawn back. Again, draw your measure close, but not tight, and sliould correspond in closeness to Front and Back Bal- ance. Next apply the tape for Breast Measure, as shown by L, Figures 1 and 2. Bring the tape measure close up under the arms, then across the shoulder lilades, and back again to the starting point, (say 36 inches). This measure should be taken quite snug, so that we may have the actual size of Breast. The next and last measure we now take is the Waist Measure, as shown by line M, Fig. 2. Bring the tape around the waist where the body is the smallest, and note the amount, (say 32 inches). This comj)letes the measurement, summed up as follows : %\ inches Point of shoulder measure. ISf " Full length of waist measui'e. 38 " Full length of coat. 19^ " Back balance measure. 20i " Front balance " 31i '• Sleeve length " 26i " Ann depth " 23i " Shoulder " 7i " Back waist " 31 36 " Breast measure. 32 " Waist Shoulder Kegulator measure. TUB V UTTER AND K. THE COAT SYSTEM. Dt ATE Diagram A. Ihowing the Sraft of a ®ouble-Sreasted Irock £oat. Draw a liii^ in centre of Imck ;is from to 0. yqiiare out ;it I'i.ulit nii.iile fi'oni A to Y. ]')oth of tliese lines are the construction lines from wliich we :ipply the measure to comi>]ete the draft. The next"i)oint which we must now establisli is line B, or front of arm scye, and this we do by the shoulder iik it.siin', whicli calls for 2;H inches in tlie measurement. Take tliis measure, divide it in two equal parts, and apply one-half, (llf inches), from A to B, and the correct point for the front of arm scye is established. (This i)oint will be more fully ex- plained below.) Xow, sqiiai'e u]) fi'om B to D, — which we will call line B. Next in order is the Front Balance nii^asure, whi(di calls for 2(U inches. Take the amount and apply it from V> to I). Squai'e out to K, and the front leiig'th (.>f the coat is established. Then apply the Back\Yaist measure, 7i inches, from A to E, and make a mark. Ilavinu' this, then draw a .short line from B to F, which is in the dii-ection to top of back. Now locate poiirt F. Measure the distance from E to B, (4^ inches), divide this in six equal parts, and apply one i)art (t inches) from B toF. Thiscme- sixth may be readily found as follows : if you have a divisicm square, then measure tlie distance from E to B, with the division of 4ths, and what- ever the nund>er may be in this (No. 17 in this case), take the same number in the division of 24ths, and vou will have the one-sixth from 15 to F. Next in order is the Back Balance measure. Take this measure lOi inches, add one seam, and apply the amount from F t(j 11, and we have the correct length of back. S(piare out from 11 to T. Having this, then locate point K. Take the amount from A to B, divide it in four parts, and apply one-fourth, (2^ inche.s), from D to K, and make a mark. Now ])roceed to locate line L, or bottom of arm scye. Take the arm depth measure 26| inches, and apply one-half of this measure (13^ inche.s') from K to ;>, and make a sweep line with your left tlnnnb-nail. Then apply the same amount (11!:^ inches) from II to 3, arid make a sweep line aLso, as shown in Diagram. Now place the square on O line ; let long ai'm of square rest on crossing of sweej) lines at 3, and in that posi- tion di'aw a line from L, through sweep to Y, in front, and we have the Ixittom of arm scye. Having this, then we establish point J, and by this we find line C. Take one-third of A and B, (3^ inches), and bring this from line B to J. Having this point, then apply | inch in all cases and sizes from J to 0, and square line (_' up to S Now take one-half of"B and C, (2^ inches), add one seam, and bi'ing the amount from H to I — also from I) to (f. Square o:it from G to U. Next in order is line P, or point of back sle?ve seam — place the I'uler on crossing of B and L lines, let it rest on H, top of back, and make a mark on line C, as at N. Now place the square on centre of back, and square out from P through N to M. Then mark width of l)ack as at 1 and 2, (say f inch on each side of line P,) or any width ac- cording to fancy or fashion, and draw line 1 and 2— mark out from 2, for pitch of back, say | inch more or less, according to the fashion of the day. Next ajiply the measure for length of waist from H to ^V, ISf inches. Square out from W to X. Mark up from I, f inch for .sjiring of back. Having all these points, we are now prepared to finish the Back. Shai)e tlie centre line of back from L to AY. Mark width of back as from A to 4. Then commtMice and shajx' the back: draw a line from H to mark above 1, fioni I to 2, from 2 to ], and from i down through 4 to bottom, ac- cording to fancy or fashion, and as shown in Di- agram A. Now locate point (,). Divide the distance from L to P in four equal i)art.s, and bring one part from line L up to Q, which gives us the point for front of sleeve yearn. Next place the tape on point of side l)ody as at 1, and make a sweep line PLATE II See Diiidr G Plate VII PLATE, III THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 9 from bottom of inside seam of baok out to 6, which line will give the length of side bod}'. Place the ruler on point K and M, and draw a a line. Now locate point R. Measure the dis- tance from line B to C, (4^ inches), divide this in' three equal parts, and apply one-third, (If inch- es), from B to E, and we have the correct point from which we apply the grand new measure called " The Shoulder Kesnlsiion'." This we hnd calls for 81 inclies in the measure- ment. Now take the tape, place it on R, let it run up in a direct line to top of back shoulder seam at line C, (say 14| inches,) bring the amount, whatever it may be, on R, and apply full length of measure, 81 inclies, in a direct line up to S, and make a sweep line out from this point, as shown in Diagram, and we have the cor- rect ]ioint bj' which ^ve draw our line fftr front slioulder seam. Now I must draw your attention to the i-emark whicli I liavemade when points 1 and "J were loca- ted, as follows: "Mark width of back (say f inch) on eacli side of line P, or any widtli accord- ing to fancy or fashion." No doubt to tlie practi- cal Cutter this point is now clear why we have given the lil)erty of drawing the liack shoulder seam higher, or lowei', than f inch. Supposing we Avould mark line 2, one inch furtlier up than in Diagram and as above stated, then draw our back shoulder seam by this line : Now apply your Shoulder Regulator measure from R, to top of shoulder at line C, and we have Just the same amount more which we have marked up for line 2. Now place the amount on R, ]nark off 31 inches, up to S, and we find tliis jioint is just the same amount lower down ; and so vice versa. Therefore we say to the Cutter, suit yourself in regard to the shoidder drop of back, and have this point according to your taste or fancy, and the Shoulder Regulator measure will establish point S, ac(^ordingly. Having made this statement, we are ready to cut out the Back, and by doing so proceed and take up — D ATE Diagram B. Ill which we find the neces.sary instriu'tion to finish the Draft. First, proceed and finish the front Slioulder. Take the back, bring it on top of front shoulder, let H rest on K and fasten the back at this point with a i^in. Having done so, then shove the back in so that top of back will rest on K M line, and point 2, pitch of back, will be f inch above sweep line S ; and in that position draw a line by back shoulder seam from K M line to * centre of shoulder. Now phice thepin at '■ and shove the back down so it will rest on sweep line S. Draw a line from ■■ to pitch of back. Having this, let the back remain in that position and shape the upper arm scye by l>ack pit<-h down to (^ to 3. Now take the back off and shape the shoulder of front part, from ai'in scye to * and from that point out to K M line, as shown in Diagram A. Next proceed and finish the side body and waist. Bring the back to point of side body, let line 1, front and back meet, and fasten the back at this point with a pin. Having done so, then the next thing must be to find the correct round- ing of side body from 1 to line L, which will be in harmony with the form of body for which the draft is made. Now to acccmiplish this to our en- tire satisfaction, we must apply the shoulder measure, which is the oidv true guide in this im- portant matter. Make a mark in centre of back Q\ inches below H, for point of shoulder measure. (See measurement.) Then take the Shoulder measure, which calls for 23^ inches, add | inch for seams in all cases, and apply the full amount, (24^ inches in this draft), as follows : — From K to Q, then around the front arm scye, in a smootli-fitting manner, to 3, and from 3 in a direct line to centre seam of back and mark made by 0^ inches ; shove the back in at bottom until this measure will rest on or meet this point ; and wlien so, then draw a line from 1 to line L, alongside of the back, and we have the correct rounding for the foiTu of the bod,y. Now let the back remain in that position, and shape the arm scye frt)m 1 to 3, as shown in Dia- gram. Having this, then place the pin close to the edge of inside line of l)ack at L, and shove the back in below. Now take the Back Waist mea- sure, add 1^ inch in all cases to the measure, and bring the amount (S| inches in this case) from B to A, or centre of back, as shoAvn in Diagram ; and in that po-iition, draw a line from L to bottom of back, as shown by dotted line. Having this, then finish the side body by these lines : give a little more rounding at top, from 1 to L, and 1)9- low L, hollow the side body a trifie to A line, 10 THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. aucT from there give the necessary spring to 6, whatever the form may need, as shown in Dia- grams B and A. Next, finish the Waist \rAvt. Draw a line for Avidtli of side body, according to fancy or fasliion, as from line L, to 7, to 9. Now we have given 1^ inch more than back waisl measure from B to A, — J inch of whicli is necessary for seams ; the other half inch we tak(Mmt between side body and front part, as from 7 to 8. Having this, then draw a corresponding line from L, tlirongh 8, to bottom. Next establish the bottom line of side body. Bring tlie angle of square on (i, Diag. A ; let long arm of S(puire rest on II, top of back, \ and draw a liue from (5 to 9, and by tliis shape the l)Ottom line of side body. The next thing must be to ai)])ly tlie Breast measure. Close the l)ack to side liody, as in Dia- gram B. Measure out from L to T, one-half breast nieasure,18 inches— froui T to \, i?|- inches in all sizes. Square up fi'om T to I'. From U, draw a line to Y. Fiom I' to Z, mark ^ inch more tlian one-sixtli of breast, '.\^y inches— from G to Z 2, (Diagram A K onedmlf the amount, If inches— and draw a line l>y these points, for depth of neck. Now place the liack on to]) of shoulder jioint, as in Diagi am B, and finish the neck gorge as in Diagram. Next to this we apply tlie Waist Meas- ure. You will remember tluit we have applied the back waist measure from B to A. Nowlu'ing the auiount 7i inclu-s on line B, mark out to ' front, one-half waist. Id inches, and allow one- ; half inch, or even one inch more for nuiking up, ! and we have point Y. Note :— The allowance at this point depends entirely (m the material, and also on the ease which the customer wishes. Now commence and hnish the iVont. Draw a i line from neck point to ^^ from A' thi'ougli Y to bottom. Then draw the bottom line ; commence one seam below the side body at 9, and strike X in front, and as shown in Diani'am. Next finish the lapel. Draw a line from X to top — extend A and L line out. Mark width at top (say 2\ inches), or fashion — at line L, (say 2| inches) at A line, (say 2^ inches) — at bottom, (say 2 inches), finish the top according to the fashion of the day. Now proceed and draw the front line from top to bottom, and finish all the rest, as shown in Diagram A and B, and the draft for a double In-easted coat is finished. But here I will say, In case the Cutter should be in doubt tluit he may not have applied the Shoulder Measure for the rounding of side body as it ought to be, and according to the explana- tion herein given, then he may prove its correct- ness by the Back Balance measure, as follows : Mark up from B, to * at F, (Diagram B), the same amount as we have taken out from 7 to 8, or h incdi ; and from this aj^ply the Back Balance, 19^ inches, up to H, and make a sweep line, as shown in Diagram B. Now, if the top of back will rest on this sweep line when brought in a joining position Avith side body, as in Diagram, then the application of the Shoulder Measure is correct. Now, as we have finished the draft, and are ready to cut the pattern out, let us take the fol- lowing measures from the draft while it is whole, and therefore it is more convenient to do so. First: Close the back and front shoulder at 'line S, as in Diagram B. Now, measure from N, or P line, around the upper arm scye to Q in front, in a close-fitting manner, and we will find 9 inches in this draft. Note the amount down. Next ; ]\Ieasui-e from Q around the lower arm scye up tf) N, in back, (say 7f inches). Note the amount down. Then bring the tai)e on K, and measure to Q, (say llf inches). Note this down also. These three measures we will need when the draft of Sleeve is made, which we find in Plate ^'I. Diagrams E and F. Having these three measures, then cut the pat- tern out. f HE Mraft of a Iingle Ireasted Ioat I deem it necessary to state to tlie young, inex- perienced Cutter, that the Single Breasted Coat is drafted in the same manner as the Double Breasted, without any change whatever, except the front, Avdiere a certain amount has to be brought out from \ and \', Now, in regard to the amount which is needed, no fixed qnantity can be given, and must be made according to the style of fi-ont. We will there- fore give a guide only, Avhich may l)e FOLLOWED nr THE CUTTEU : For a coat which shall roll down to the 2d but- ton at waist, and which is intended to l)utton up below, — We mark (nit from V (say 1^ inches) and at Y (say 1 inch) more f)r less, according to the ease wanted l)y the customer. A coat with a short roll, and intended to but- ton np very high, — One inch is sufficient from V out ; and below this point the style and fashion will reii'ulate it. THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 11 Mcsunrks on the aboY e Draft. The Draft of Diagrams A and B is now finish- ed and thoroughly explained. Therefore, I deem it my duty to state, that by this single draft the Cutter has (with only one exception, my whole Sj'stem of tlie Coat Body. No mat- ter wliat shape or form he may have to deal with, or for which he may be called upon to pro- vide a covering, the principal part of drafting is for all alike. This one exception is, as we have alluded to in the commencement of the draft, by applying one-half of shoulder measure from A to B, or front of arm scye line, and Avill be fully explain- ed on this page, bearing title ''The Shoulder Measure in connection with Front and Back Bal- ance." ©HE ShOULDEI^ fflEASUr^E, IN CONEECTION AYITH FRONT AND BACK BALANCE. This is a simple but highly important point, and all those who intend to study and practice this New System should follow the instruction as herein given : The Cutter will see at once that the Front and Back Balances measures will bring the length of coat, in front and liack ; and, according to the length of the Back Balance, the sweep lines at 8 will change more to the front or to the back. (See Diagrams A, C and D.) And just in the same manner the Shoulder measure must change also, otherwise it will not be in harmony with Front and Back Balance measures. Now this we do in a very easy and simple way, without any complication whatever. In the regular proportioned size of coat, (no matter what the size of breast may be), the back balance is always one inch less than the front balance. (See measurement. Diagram A). But as long as the back balance does not run balow this one inch, and also not above the front bal- ance, we call it a proportioned size, and apply one-half of the shoulder measure from A to B, for front of arm scye line, as shown in Diagram A. But as soon as the back ])alance is more than the front l)alance (as the case will be in stooping forms,) then whatever the amount may be which the back balance is more than front, we add the amount to one-half of shoulder measure, and apply it from A to B, for front of arm scye line. This is fully illustrated in Diagram C. Then we take the reverse side, where the back balance runs more than one inch below the front balance (as the case will be in erect forms). In all such cases we deduct the amount which is less than one inch, from the one-half shoulder measure, and whatever is left of the one-half shoulder we apply from A to B, and draw the front of arm scye line by this point. To show this more plainly, we suppose the front balance will call for 20^ inches — the back balance 19 inches. Here we luive i inch which we must deduct from the slunilder measure. Supposing now the shoulder measure calls for 23 inches, one-half of which would be 11^ inches. Now deduct the ^ inch from this, and we have 11 inches, which we apply from A to B. This is also illustrated in Diagram D, (see measurement) — front balance 23| inches — back balance 22 inches. Here we have | inch which we must deduct from the shoulder measure. Now take one-half shoulder measure, 14^ inches ; de- duct I inch from this and we have IS^- inches, Avhich we api^ly frojn A to B, as shown in the draft of Diagram D. This includes all cases, no matter what the dif- ference may be between front and back balance, and which may exist in one way or the other, and by doing so, the front of arm scye line will be established according to the form of the body which we have measured and drafted for ; and the shoulder measure will be brought in harmony with front and back balance. Now, should any Cutter wish to know the rea- son for so doing, I will state it to him. In the first case above mentioned, (stoox^ing), the dis- tance from D to bottom of arm scye is less than the proportioned size, and consequently the dif- ference of shoulder measure is made up from L to B, or front of arm scye. In the second case, (erect), the distance from D to bottom of arm scye is more than the jiropor- tioned size, and L to B must be just so much less. This point B, or front of arm scye line, is of great importance in coat cutting, and therefore we show its ett'ect more fully in the next article. 12 THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. ANT) THE EFFECT WHICH IS HAS IF NOT PROPERLY LOCATED. The prox»er and deiiiiite location of B line, or front of arm scye, is one of the most imx^oi'tant points in coat enttinii', and therefore well worthy of stndy and consideration. We can say with safety, and witliout liesita- tion, that in nine cases ont of ten which the Cut- ter must call misfits, the foundation to these was laid (and can lie traced back to this point) V)y misplacing B, or front of arm scye line. To prove this, we take the proportioned size of a 30 inch breast, — and in this Ave have the follow- ing measures : From centre of back to front of arm scye llf inches, and from this point to cen- tre of l)reast 9 inches. Now, take for instance the so called erect fonii with the same breast measure, 'M inches : — and. when measuied, we hnd the distance from centre of 1)ack to front of arm scye, or B line, (say lOf inches), and from tliis i^oint to centre of breast 10 inches. Now what do these measures say, or indicate? It is simply this : Bring B line one inch more towards the back than in the projwr- tioned size, and we have this line according to the form of the body, and also the actual amount of bi'east from B to A', or centre of lireast, wjiich the form does need. 'I'his is now one side by which we ha\"e shown our point. Then take tlie sfoojiiiiei fdnn, Avith the same breast measure, 86 inches, — and when measured we lind the distance from centre of back to front of arm scye (say 12| inches,) and from this point to centre of breast (say 8 inches.) (See Diagram C.) Now this shows tlie reverse side from the so-called erect form ; and shall we meet the reqinrements of the form, B line must be drawn one inch further out from the regular proportioned size, and by so doing we have the correct width from centre of back to fi'ont of arm scye, and also the correct width of breast. Siqiposing now, the Cutter uses the so-called Division or Breast Measure System, which places I of breast, from centre of back to front of arm scye, no matter what form the customer may have, erect or stooping, it gives the amount for each one alike. And what will be the result ; In the first case al)0ve stated, (erect form, ) the coat will be too full in the back and under the arm, while it will be too narrow in front of breast, ))ecause the fullness in back, or extra amount of cloth, which ))rings the fullness, is needed in front of lireast. In the second case, (stoojiing form), the coat will lie too tight in back to front of arm scye, and too full in front of breast, — liecause the full- ness in front of breast is needed in back. But in this case the Cuttei' will tind moi-e than lieino- tight in liack. He hnds a big wriidvle from centre of liaclv below the shoulder blades, extending across the side luidy to front of arm scye, thence up to fr(mt shoulder point. The arm scye is too small. Every movement the customer makes shows only too plainly that it is a spoiled gar- ment, which can never be made to give entire sat- isfaction to the customer, nor to the Cutter. For him it is an eyesore, which he will try to get rid of if possible ; and therefore, the next thing he will do is, he goes to work to cut the front of arm scye out and give more room to the wearei'. But when the coat is finished and tried on, he will hnd a worse tit than before. Tile tpiestion may arise, why should this be so; and we ansAver : because, Avhen the front of ami scye was cut, all the jxiints on top of front shoul- der were changed also and consequently the whole coat is thrown out of lialance. It will make the coat scmiewhat easier by the operation, but it will draw more wrinkles up in front. Then conies wadding in jtlay, and all these points where the Avrinkles are will be stuffed out, and l)y the time the job is conqileted a hard day's work is done and gone, and the pay for all this trouble and labor is — a ba B, 4| inches ; divide this in six equal parts, and liring one-part, f inch, from B to F. Now api)ly back lialance, 20^ inches, fiom F to H, and make a short sweep out to top of l)ack — then mark onedialf of the amount, which the back balance is more tlian front balance, (or \ inch ill tliis case) from centre line out to H, by which we form the top of back, as in Diagram. Bring the square on H, and draw a line through sweep and mai'k made liy \ inch out to I — mark one-fourth of A and B frcnii D to K, 3^ inches. Apply one-half of arm depth, 13^ inches, from K to 3, make a sweep — then the same amount from H, top of back, to 3, and make a sweep also. Bring square on centre line as at L, let long arm rest on crossing of sweep lines at 3, and down a line from L, through sweep, to V. Mark one- third of A and B, 4| inches, from line B to J — from J to C, I inch — square up from C to S. Bring ruler on crossing of B and L lines, let it rest on top of ba(ds: at H, and mark for N. Scpiare out from P through N to M— draw a line from M to K — mark width of back pitch as at 1 and 2 — mark from H to I, one-half of B and C, 2^ inclies — the same amount from D to G, and square out to U. Mark Q one fourth of L and M. Next apply length of waist measure from H to W — square out to X — mark in from A, (say \ inch), and shape the back line from H, through mark, to bottom, as shown in Diagram. Mark width of back, from A to 4 — mark | inch a))ove I for spring of back. Having all these points, then shape the back from II to I — from I to 2 — from 2 to 1, and from 1 through 4, to liottom of back — sweep by 1, from bottom of inside line of back, out to 6. Now l)ring one-third of B and C, or If inches, from B to R. Having this point, then apply THE SHOILDER RE«l LATOR. Measure from R to top of back shoulder seam at line C (^say 14| inches). Bring the amount on R, and measure to S, full length of measure, 3()|- inclies, and make a sweep out from S, as shown in Diagram A. Now cut the back out, and finish the front shoulder, as shown in Diagram B. Also shape the upper arm scye to Q, to 3. Next, place the back to point of side body- fasten it with a pin. Apply the shoulder mea- sure from K to Q, then around the front arm scye to 3, then to centre of back (7 inches below H), full measure, 24 inches, and allow J inch more for seams. Now draw a line along side of back from 1 to line L — l)ring the pin down to L. Apply back waist measure, and 1^ inch more, from B to A — draw a line from L to bottom of inside seam of back, and then shape the side body bj' these lines, as shown in Diagram B. Next draw bot- toni line of side body, as before shown — draw a 14 THE GUTTER AND GUIDE. line under the ann for width of side body as at 7 — from 7 to 8, marlv ^ inch, which we liave allow- ed, from B to A, and sliape the front part throngh 8, as sliown in Diagram. Apply the breast mea- sure from L to T (as Diagram B)— from T to V, 2i inches. Square ui) from T to U — from U to Z, one-sixth of breast and h inch more — CI to Z2, one-lialf tlie amount — draw a line l)y tliese points — also from U to Y. Shape the neck gorge. Next apply tlie waist measure — biing tlie back waist measure, 8^ inches, on B, and mark out one-half waist, 17 inches, and allow ^ inch for making up. Having this, then sliape tlie front line for a Double Breasted Coat. Also draw bot- tom line of front part, and iinish all the rest as shown in Diagram. Measure upper arm scye from N to Q — then from Q, around the lower arm scye to N — also from K, to Q, and note the aiiioiint foi' draft of sleeve. The Diagram also shows the Single Breasted Cutaway Coat, to button up high. Measure oiit from y one inch — at top 1^^ inches — and shape the front down by these points. The explanation of Skirt will be found on Plate YII,— Diagram H. PLATE V. Diagram D. SHOWING THE DRAFT FOR A CORPULENT FIGURE. The reason for giving this large size of Diagram is, first, to show how easy it is to draft a pattern for this class of men by this System ; and, sec- ond, to show the application of the Shoulder Measure in reverse to Diagram C. The measurement will show, that we have the so-called "erect" form of the human liody be- fore us — and when the draft is finished it will show that t he length of back, from L to H, is 1 f inch less than the regular size of breast measure — from centre of back to front of arm scye If inch less than the regular size of breast, or, in other words, for a breast measure of 41 inches — and consequently the distance from front of arm scye to A^ is just the .same amount more. - The measure we suppose as follows : 7f inches Point of shouldei' measiu-e. 21 " Waist length 22 '• Back balance 23f " Front balance 36 " Sleeve length " 33 " Arm depth 28i " Shoulder 9 " Back waist " 34^ " Shoulder regulaor " 46 " Breast 50 " Waist " THE DRAFT. Draw line to 0. Square out from A to Y. Take one-half of shoulder measure, 14^ inches. Now notice front and back balance : Here we find the back balance If inch less than front balance, and consequently we have | inch, which we must deduct from one-half shoulder measure — deduct tliis, and it gives us 13.} inches, which we apply from A to B, and the front of arm scye 13oint is established. Now square up from B — mark B to I), front l)alance, 23f inches — square out to K — A to E, back waist, 9 inches — divide the distance from E to B in six parts, and bring one-sixth, | inch, from B to F — F to H, back balance, 22 inches, add one seam. Square out to I. Bring one-i'ourtii of A and B from D to K, 3f inches. Now apply one-half of arm depth measure, 16.]- inches, from K to 3, and make a sweep line — then the same amount from II to 3, and make a sweep also. Place the square on centre of back and draw a line from L, through sweep at 3, to \, ill front. Now bring one-third of A and B, from B line to J, 4| inches — from J to C J inch, and square up to S. Bring the ruler on crossing of B L lines ; let it rest on H, and mark N — square out from P, through N to ]\I — draw a line from M to K — H to I one-half of B and C^ the same amount from D to G— square out to U — mark width of back as 1 and 2. Then apply waist length from H to W — square out to X. Finish the centre line of back from H to W — ■ mark widtli from A to 4 — give f inch above I, for spring of back. Now commence and shape the l)ack from H to I — from I to 2—2 to 1, and from 1 down through 4, to bottom. Bring the tape on 1, and s^^■eep out to 6. Take one-third of B and C, If inches, and, bring this from B to R — apply THK SHOl liDER RECJl I.ATOR, From R to top of back shoulder seam at line C, (say 15i inches), bring the amount, whatever it may be, on R, and then full measure, 34^ inches, PLATE, V PLATE, VI THE CUTTER AKD GUIDE. 15 up to S, and make a sweep, as shown in Diagram. Now cnt the back out. Next, finish the front shoulder as in Diagram B. Also draw iippsraEm scye to Q, to 3. Then bring the back on side bodj^ ; let line 1 meet ; place a pin at this point. Now apply the shoulder mea- sure from K to Q, then around the front arm scye to 3, and then to centre line of back, (7f inches below H), full measure, 28^ inches, and allowed f inch more for seams. Then draw a line from 1 to L ; place the pin at L, shove the back in on bot- tom — mark in from B, 1\- inch more than back waist measure, 10^ inches, to A, and draw a line from L to bottom of back. Now finish the side body as shown in Diagram B — draw bottom line from 6 to 9, — also side body line through 7 — from 7 to 8, ^ inch, and draw a line from L, through 8 to bottom. Next apply the breast measure from L, (as in Diagram B) to T — from T to V, 2| inches — square up from T to U — from U to * the difi'er- ence between breast and waist measure, 2 inches, and from this point draw a line to V — U to Z, one-sixth of breast and ^ inch moi'e — G to Z 2, one-half of the amount, and draw line out by these marks. Next apply the waist measure bring back waist, 9 inches, on B, and mark out to Y, one-half waist, 25 inches. Now commence and shape the neck gorge — then draw a line from neck point down to V to Y, to X, as shown in Diagram. Then from bottom of side body out to front, for bottom line of front part, and all the rest as shown in Diagram A. and B, and the draft is finished. (Draft of Collar, see Explanation, page 18). the sleeve system. Plate VL Before we show the draft of Sleeve, I must re- ' mind the Cutter of these three measures which we have taken from the pattern of Diagram B. The first one is the Upper Arm Scye, as from N to Q, 9 inches — the second one is the Lower Arm Scye, as from Q to N, 7f inches — the third one is from K to Q, 11 1 inches. Now, as these measures are directly applied to the draft of Sleeve, it is therefore very important that they should be taken with utmost care, and as nearly as possible correct. Draw a line from A to 0, — square out to II. Now take the back of Diagram A and mark the distance of L and P lines (3^^ inches) from- A to B. Square out from B to D. Now take the up- per arm scye measure, 9 inches, and bring the amount in a direct line from A to D, and make a mark. Place the angle of square on D, let arm of square rest on B, and draw a line down to L, and we have the width of upi)er sleeve. Now take the pattern of Diagram A, measure the distance in front of arm scye from line L to Q, (f inch) and bring this from B to C — draw a line from C to D. Divide the upper arm scye measure in three equal parts, and apply one-third, (3 inches) from B to E. Place angle of square on E, let arm of square rest on C, and drawn lineup to F, and we have now the correct point which will bring the right length of sleeve head. Now place the tape on F, make this ijoint a pivot, let crayon rest on A, and make a sweep line from A to CI. Having this, then shape the front sleeve head from centre of A and B lines to D, striking front line one seam above B line as shown in Diagram. Next apply the measure for sleeve length, which we find in Diagram A, 31-|- inches. Now the measure we have taken from K to Q is llf inches. Bring the amount on line B, in front of sleeve, and mark ofl' \ inch more than full mea- ';ure to L, 31f inches. The Cutter will find that the allowance which we have made for seams is ^ inch — \ inch above line B, and ^ inch at L. Now mark I in centre of B and D — bring angle of square on L, let long arm of square rest on I, and in that position draw a line from L to M. Mark width of sleeve from L to M, according to fashion, (say 6 inches), — mark K in centre of D and L — square out to N — draw front line of sleeve according to fashion. Mark width of sleeve from front line to N, (say 9 inches, more or less.) Having this, then draw the back line of sleeve from A through N to M, as shown in Diagram E. THE IM5KR SIDE OF SLEEVE. Take the measure as alcove given for lower arm 16 THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. scye, 7f inches — bring tlie amount from D to H. Malve a niavk — and ^\-e Avill tind a space between H and A, of IJ inch — take one-half, or ^ inch, and mark this in from D to G, wliich we make the point for front line of under side — now apply the measure, 7J inches, again from CI to H, and draw front and back line for undersleeve by these points — take the distance from B to C, de- duct one seam, and bring the amount in front be- low B line, and sqpare across for bottom line of under side. Having this, then shape from H to I. to bottom line, tt) G, makingB line the length of under side, as shown in Diagram E. DIAGRAM F. Tills Diagram shows liow to change the Front seam of Slee^'e. The drafting is in the same manner as in Dia- gram E, and when di'afted, then mark out fi-om D, the amount whicli you decide upon the sleeve seam shall come behjw Q on front part, (say li inch), bring the same amount out from L, and draw a line down by these marks, as shown in Diagram F. Now, wliatever the amount may be which we have marked out from D and L, bring the same amount in from Gand L, and draAvyour line for underside by these points. But when the seam is placed outside of D and L, be careful and have the goods stretched, on the outside of D L, so that it will lay over smoothly on upper sleeve. I^^^The Cutter will remenil)er, tliat we have given two measurements, in the Explanation of Measurement, by which we may oljtain the sleeve length. The first measure is as we have applied in the draft of Diagram E. The second measure, as we have stated in the measurement of sleeve, is from C3ntre of back to el])ow, and then to the liand, or full length of sleeve. Now, those who wish to adopt this x)lan apply the measure as follows : Measure the width of back, from P to N, or (J line — bring the amount on A, top of sleeve; and from A, extend the tape to N, to M, full length of measure, and allow -J- inch more for sea,ms. All the rest is as shown in Diagrams E and F. J few ^en]arks oi] Sleeve 6uttii]i^\ No doubt the majority of Cutters will agree on one 'point when we say, that a good-tittiug sleeve is the ornament to a well-fitting coat. Yes, more than this, we may say without hesitation, it is the finishing toui;]i cjf beauty and elegance to the garment ; while, on the other hand, a well-fitting coat body containing a bad-fitting sleeve is an eye-sore to the intelligent Cutter. But while the majority of Cutters agree on this very imptu'tant point, it is nevertheless a, Avell known fact that the sleeve does not receive the attention of many Cutters which it ought to have and should have. Now some may say, AVhy should this be so, and what reason have you for this ; We answer, because it is simply for this reason : that some Cutters look upon the sleeve as a matter of trifle and insignificance. Yes, some have formed an idea that almost anytliing in the shape of a sleeve will do, so long as it has the right lengtii, and width of arm scye. But this is the greatest error any Cutter can ever make — and no doubt some of this class of Cutters have already paid very dearly for it. It is a well known fact, that Cutters in general make the coat body their principal study, espe- cially if they have the misfortune of using a sys- tem whicli gives too much cloth in one place, or wrinkling to another —in all such cases tliev will try very hai'd to remedy the evil and avoid the bad consequences. But very few of them will give their study and attention to the sleeve, or even let the thought enter their mind that the sleeve might have something to do with the full- ness and wrinkling of the coat body. Neverthe- less, it is true tJiat in the majority of cases where the cutter iinds this troul,ile, the .sleeve is the very thing tliat produces it. Now, to prove our p(»int and argument, we take for instance, the cutter who has taken up the fashion of trying on the garment before it is finished, (which we must pronounce a very poor policy). lie fits on the coat without the sleeve, then according to his theory the sleeve will fit, if only the coat body will. \Vc suppose now that he is so fortunate as to find the coat body all right, it fits neatly around the arm scye, side body, and waist — shoulders are nice and square — and it is pronounced perfect fitting. The coat is then finished, and when tried on again, lo! what a change there is in the coat whicli the ar- tist has ])ronounced perfect fitting. The should- ers, which w(n'e so nice and square before, hang down now fiat as a leaf — the side body which were nice and smooth before, has now a surplus amount of lotise cloth extending across the back. The arm scye in front, whicli was smooth before, he liuds now a bin' wrinkle. Now then, Mr. Ar- PLATE, VII THE CUTTER AI^D GUIDE. 17 tist, what is tli3 causa of all these, changes ? And the answer will be, it is spoiled by the journey- man tailor. Now, we admit that the journeyman may have done his share, in not sewing in the' sleeve as it ought to be — but still, there must be some other cause that has brought all these changes — and this cause, we say is the sleeve, which does not fit in the arm scye. The sleeve head is too short, and drags the shoulder down and produces the fullness and wrinkling under the arm. And if the Cutter has any doubt that this be the case when caught in this dilemma, just rip out the top sleeve, from back to front seam, and this will show you that the shoulder will raise up in the same position as they were when fitted on first, and by this, all the loose cloth will be taken away — ^and furthermore, it will show you the amount which the sleeve head has to be lengthened to fit in the arm scye — and by so doing it will prove that the coat body is all right, but the sleeve is not. Now I claiia iliat my Sleeve System which is herein given and explained will produce a well fitting sleeve every time, providing the measures are taken correct, and the drafting is made ac- cording to the instruction therein given. It will fit the arm scye without dragging on the shoul- der. It will produce the sleeve according to the form or hang of arm. And furthermore, I claim that it is the most simple and time saving sys- tem on sleeve cutting in existence; any cutter of common talent can draft out a good fitting sleeve in less than one minute. THE SKIRT SYSTEM, PLATE VII. The Skirt is also a very important jtart of the coat, which, when in good shape and in good hanging position, will add beauty and elegance to the garment. It is therefore more worthy of study than it generally receives. My Skirt System has the most reliable points by which, if located according to the jilan as herein shown, will give in all cases, the correct spring in back of plait. It is simple in the way of drafting, and reliable in all its various points — because the most of these points are taken from the body and applied to the draft. Diagram G. SHOWING THE SKIRT FOR A DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK COAT. Draw a line in front, as from A to B — A to C 9 inches in all cases. Square in from C to D. Now to locate point D : we must say, this i^oint is governed by the fashion, and should be made accordingly, if the Skirts are worn very full, the amoiant must be more, and so vice versa. For a medium full skirt, we mark in from C to D, one inch in all sizes. Bring angle of square on A, let short arm rest on D, and draw a line on top, as from A to E. Now measure the bottom of front, side body and lapel, add 1 inch more for fullness, and bring the amount from A to F. Having this, then shape the top of skirt as shown by dark line, and as near as possible to the form of front part, as shown in Diagram A. Next measure the width of side body at bottom, bring the amount from F to G — square down to H. Now to find * H, we must jJace the squai'e on side body, as shown in Diagram A, as follows : bring angle of square on lower point of side body as to fi, let arm rest on edge of side seam at A line, as at 5, and in tliat position draw a line from 6 to 10; then, whatever the space may be between 9 and 10, (say 1^ inch in this case,) bring the a- mount from dark line (or actual waist line of skirt) from G to H, and make a * ; and we have the point which will give the correct spring in back of skirt. Bring the angle of square on point F, let ann rest on * H, and draw a line from F to K. Mark down from F to I, one-half breast, 18 inches in this case. Now place the side body in a joining position with top of skirt, as from F to G, and draw a curved line in harmony with side body from F through I to K, — also draw a corresponding line for the plait. Having this, tlien finish the l)ottoni line — meas- ure from F to K, length of back skirt, and allow ^ inch more — in centre of skirt mark f inch more than back skirt, and in front as from A to B, length of back skirt, and finish the bottom by these points as shown in Diagram G. 18 THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. Diagram H. SHOWING THE DRAFT OF SKIRT FOR A CUTAWAY FROCK COAT. let arm rest on * F, and draw a line from C to D — • bring the side body on top of skirt as before stated, and draw a curved line from C down — also draw a eorrespondinn- line for the plait. Mark length of back skirt from C to D — also in front. Now bring the front p:irt in a joining position with top of skirt, and shape the front of skirt down t ) U. Next draw the bottom line from D to Ct, and finish the whole as shown in Diagram H, and according to fancy or fashion. Diagram I. THE DRAFT OF A DRESS COAT SKIRT. Draw line from A to B— bring the width of front and side body at waist seam, from A to C — next draw top line as shown in Diagr.or to fancy. ]\Iark width of side body from C to E— square by A B line from E to F, and extend the line up to top of waist line. Now Ining the square on side body as before stated, and as shown in Diagram A. Measure from 9 to 10, (say 1^ inches in this case) and apply this from top line of skirt to * F. Having this, then place the angle of square on C, SHOWING The Dress Coat Skirt is drafted in the same manner as shown in Diagram II, with only one exception, and this is, draw top line in front one- half inch below A, as shown in Diagram; all the rest is as before stated. Now when we have all tliese points, then. meas- ure out from C! to H, f of lireast, (more or less), accoi'ding to fashion. Also from D to I, ^ of breast, or fashion. Next nuirk width of straps or belts, at H, (say If inche.s) at A, (say 1^ inch) — Then draw a line from H to I. Having this, then commence and linish the skirt liy these points as shown in Diagram, and according to the fashion of the day. The Draft of Bat-k Skirt. The Back Skirt Ave draft direct to the clotli. I»raw a line on edge of the cloth, full length of coat — mark off length of waist — from that point mark If inches to W, (Diagr. A). Now place the back on the cloth, let H rest on edge, and W on If inches. Then extend l)ottom line of waist to the cloth — let the back remain in its position, and apply the measure for length of coat (say 38 inches — sqiiare out — measure out on waist line, from edii'e of cloth to inside seam of liack, and whatever the amount may be, bring this out on bottom of skirt. Having this point, then draw a gentle curved line from inside line of back to mark made at bottom — also for plait of skirt — and finish the rest according to fashion or fancy. The Draft of Collar. The Collar, as shown in Diagram D, is drafted as follows : Bring the ruler on front shoulder point ; let it rest on point to which the coat shall roll in front, and draw a line from O down, as shown by dotted lines — then bring the width of back from shoulder jioint to 3. From line mark down to 3, (say finch), and draw a line from this mark to tlie shoulder point for crease of col- lar — l)y this line square iip to 2, and also to 1. Mark standing collar, as from 3 tol, 1^ inches — from 3 to 2, (say li inches), or fashion, and shape the rest as shown in Diagram, and according to the fashion of the day. Collars which are intended for n sliort roll, as in the single breasted coat. Diagram C, — the point from to 3 may be made one inch, and draw line for crease of collar })y it, But if so, then have top and bottom stretched from centre seam to front of crease so it will lay over smoothly. The Draft of Body Sack. PLATE VIII. Sack Coats are drafted on the same i)lan as frock coats. I'he measurement is the same, and all the construction lines also. The only change which we must make in Sack Coats is in the di- vision of the amount from E to B. In Frock Coats we measure from E to B, and divide the anioimt m six equal jiarts and applj' one part from B to F. In Sack Coats, however, we must divide the distance, EfoB, in four equal l)arts, and apply one part (or ^th) from B to F. The reason for doing so is simply this : Sack Coats need a longer back on top, and the one- fourth i^irovides fm- this ; otherwise it is the same as shown in Frock Coats— and if the drafting is carried out according to the instructions as here- in given, a neat-fitting garment will be produced, which will give satisfaction to both customer and Cutter. PLATE, VIII vK iD THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 19 The Measiiireiiieiit. The measures which we use in the explanation of this draft are the same as in Diagram A, with the exception of length of coat, as follows : 6i inches Point of shoulder measure. 30 " Lengtli of coat. 19i " Back balance. 20i " Front balance. 31i " Sleeve length. 26i " Arm depth. 23i ' ' Shoulder measure. 7i " Back waist. 31 " Shoulder Regulator. 36 " Breast measure. 32 " Waist measure. DIAGRAM J. Draw a line from O to W. Square out from A to Y. (Notice front and back balance same as in frock.) A to B, one-half of shoulder measiire, llf inches — square up from B — B to D, front balance — square oiit from D to K — A to E — back waist measure. Then measure from E to B ; divide this in four parts, and bring one part (or one-fourth) from B to F — F to H, back balance 19^ inches, — square out from H to I — D to K, one-fourth of A and B, 21 inches ; from K to 3, one-half of arm depth 13^ inches, make a sweep ; then the same amount from H to 3, and make a sweep also. Square out from L through sweep lines to front at V. Next bring one-third of A and B, from B line to J — J to C, f inche in all cases. Square up from C to S — take one-half of B and C, add one seam, and bring this from H to I, 2f inches ; then the same amount from D to G — square out to U — place the ruler on crossing of B, L, H, and mark for N — square out from P through N, to M; draw aline from ]\I to K. The next point we now establish is the width of back, or shoulder seam, as at 2. Now here I must say, this is a matter of fancy, where most of Cutters follow their own taste, and which the fashion will change also. Therefore I will give a guide only, which I find in general practice, brings this point about right. Measure the dis- tance from L to P lines, and apply one-half from N or P line, to 2, and square out. Mark out on this line pitch of back, (say f inch, more or less). Having this, then apply the measure for length of coat, from H to W ; square out from W to front. Next decide onjioint 1, or in other words, where you wish to locate the side line of back ; make a mark. Also mark width of back at bottom, as from W to X, to fancy, (say 6 inches) ; having these points, then draw a line from 1 to X, for side seam of back, according to fancy or fashion. Mark in from A to -1, hollow of back, (say f inch, more or less), and draw centre of back from P, through 4 to bottom. Now shape the back from H to I, from I to 2, from 2 to 1, as shown in Diagram, and according to fancy or fashion. Having this, then take one-third of B and C, and mark this out from B to R, and apply The Shoulder Resi'iilator. Measure from 11, to top of shoulder seam of back at line C, bring the amoixnt on R, and mark off full measure, 31 inches, to S, in the same manner as in diagram A. Sweep out from S by R. Having this, then cut the back out. Bring the Ijack on top of front shoulder, and finish the shoulder on front part, and upper arm scye as shown in Diagram B. Next, bring the back on side seam as at 1, fasten it with a pin. Now a|iply the shoulder measure from K to Q, then around the front arm scye to centre of back, 6i inches below H, and allow f inch for seams, as shown in Diagram B. Then draw a line from 1 to L, — mark from 5 to 6 the amount which you intend to take out between l)ack and front. Now this as the prac- tical Cutter does know, depends entii'ely on the shape which we like to produce. If the coat shall fit close in l)ack the amount must be more, and if it shall be more in "a sti'aight form the amount must be less. For a medium close fitting body Sack, take one-fourth of E to B, in this case one inch. Having this, then shape the lower arm scye by the back, from 1 to 3, and draw side line of front from 1 through 6 to X as shown in Diagram. But here we must caution the Cutter: do not bring the point of side body below line 1, or point of side line on back, otherwise the back will be shortened on top. Always leave space for one seam between arm scye and side line at thisjioint. Now as we have finished all these x'oints, then apply the Breast Measure, as in Diagram B, from L to T — square up to U — from T to \' 2i inches, make a mark. Next bring the Back Waist measure 7i inches, on B, and mark out one-half of waist measure, 10 inches to Y. Next place the ruler on U and Y and draw a line to Z, which we make the point for collar. Then mark from U to Z one-sixth of breast and J inch more — bring one-half of the amount from G to Z 2 and draw a line out. Mark out from V. (say 1 inch, more or less, ) according to the style of front — then shape the neck, and draw a line down in front according to fancy or fashion, and finish all the rest as shown in Diagram. Next mark Q, one-fourth of L and M — measure upper and lower arm scye ; also from K to Q, as shown in frock coat, and draft the sleeve by these measures as in Diagr. E, and the draft is finished. 20 THE GUTTER AND GUIDE. f^ ^_ |OUBLE AND |lNGLE-§REASTED |aCK ^VER l^OATS. PL.ATE IX. M}e Sack Overcoat. 8;ick OverC'oats, as sluiwii in this Diagram, are dral'ted in tlie same manner as Vxjcly sacks, and as shown in Diagram J, with only one exception. By looking over the Diagram we find all the points and letters as in Body Sack. I]nt after all, there is one jioint to which your attention must be drawn, and this is fi'om X to 7. In Body Sacks we draw tlic side line of front part to X, or l^ack. The Over Coat, howevei', needs more fullness at bottom, and therefore we must change this point according to the length of coat, and also according to the fullness which the fashion may call for. In regard to the measureirient of Sack and Frock Over Coats : The measures should beta- ken over the under or body coat, in the same manner as we have explained in the measurement over the vest. By taking the measurement over the undercoat we will have the exact amount to diaft from, without making any allowances what- ever, except in those places where v,*e allow for seams and making up. Hind this the easiest and surest way of measuring and drafting the Over Coats. The Mesjsuri'saaegii, We suppose, as follows : 6f inches Point of shoulder measure. 42 ■' Length of Coat. 20 " Back balance. 21 " Front balance. 32 " Sleeve length. 28 " Arm depth. 24f " Shoulder measure. 8 " Back Avaist measure. 32 " Shoulder liegulator measure. 38 " Breast measure. 33i " Waist DIAGRAM K. Draw a line from to AV — stpiare out from A to Y. (Notice front and back balance.) Now bring one-half of shoulder measure, 12f inches, from A t(j B — square up from B — B to D, front balance — A to E, back waist — B to F, one-fourth of E and B — F to H, back balance — D to K, one- fourth of A and B — K to 3, one-half arm depth, make a sweep — H to 3, same amount nmke a sweep also. Square out from L, tlirough sweep to front — B line to J, one third of A and B— J to C, J inch. Square up from C to S ; mark N by H, and L B line — square out from P, through NtoM — draw a line from K to M — N to 2, (say one-half of L and P), more or less — H to I, one-half of B and C, and one seam — D to G, same amount — square out to U — H to W, length of coat — square out to front — A to 4, (say | inch,) — AV to X, width of back, (say 6i inches, more or less) — line 1, to fashion or fancy. Now finish the back, from H to I, from I to 2 — from 2 to 1, and from i through 5 to X — then finish the centre of back as shown in Diagram, and according to fashion. Bring one-third of B and C, from B to R. Tlien apply The Hhoiihler Re£;uhtto9*. Measure from R to top of Back Shoulder at line C, Iji'ing the amount on R, and mai'k up to S full length of measure, 32 inches, and make a sweep from S oirt, same as in Diagram A. Now cut the ])ack out. Bring the back on top of front shoulder and finish the same as in Diagram B, — draw a line for upper arm scye to Q to 3. Then bring the back to side seam let line 1, meet, fasten the back with a pin — apjily the shoulder measure from K to Q, then around the arm scye to 3, then to centre seam of back 6f inch below H, and allow f inch for seams — draw a line from 1, to line L, mark from 5 to 0, (say one-fourth of E and B, more or less). Now mark spring at ])ottom, as from X to 7 — (say 2^ inches). Then draw the side seam of front from 1 to L through 6 to 7 as shown in Diagram — shape the lower arm scye as in Diagram J. Next apply the ))reast measure, from L to T, as before shown. Square up from T to U — T to V, 2i inches — mark from U to Z, one-sixth of breast, and ^ inch more — one-half the amount from G to Z 2, and draw line out. Next, apply the waist measure. Bring back waist on B, and mark out waist measure, and 1 inch more to Y. Bring the ruler on U and Y. and draw a line to Z, which we make the point for collar. Now mark oxrt from V, for a Single- Breasted Coat (say IJ inches), the same amount from Y. Having this, then shape the neck to Z from Z, shape the lai)el according to the fashion of the day, and from this point draw the front line through mark at V, and Y, to bottom. Also shai:)e the bottom line, and all the rest as shown in Dia- gram K. . This Diagram also shows the Double-Breasted PLATE, IX PLATE, X THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 21 Coat. Mark out fi'oni V, to front, (say 3 inches, more or less), the same amount from Y. to front, and draw the front line by these marks. Then measure in from V', ?r inch less than we^iave marked outside, also the same amount from Y, in, and di'aw a line for tlie Buttons. Tl]e Brock Overcoat. This stvle of coits is drafted in the sanr> minner as shown in Diagrams A, and B, without any change whatever, except tlie measurement, Avhich should be taken over the body coat. The one-fourth of Y,, and B, whicli we have ap- plied in Diagram K, from B, to F, is in Sack Coats only. Bear this in mind, and no alteration will be needed. PLATE X. SHOWING THE DRAFT OF THE INVERIVESS CAPE, WITH OR WIT HOLT SLEEVES AXD ALSO HOW TO PRODUCE THE THREE-QUARTJER C1R€L,E OR CAPE. This style of Over Coats, known as the Inverness •"iape, have been in demand for quite a number of years, and although the fashion has drawn the garment out of style, it is still worn by some, and will be so for some time to come, because it is the most comfortable garment for traveling purposes ever gotten iip. Now this style of Over Coats are generally drafted by graduated scales, and the result, no dottbt, some have experienced. AYe find that all patterns drafted by scales will be above 38 breast, a number of sizes too large for the breast for which they are intended. The only way to overcome the difficulty is to draft out the pattern by actual measurement, and in the same manner as we do in Fkock and Sack Coats. The Measurement. This is the same as in frock and sack coats, and shotild be taken over the under coat, except breast and waist, whicli should be taken over the vest in this style of coats. We suppose now that the measures are as fol- lows : 4-i 20 21 32 31 28 24 18" 36 33 Inches Length of Coat. " Back balance. Front " Sleeve length. " Cape " Arm depth measure. " Shoulder " " Shoulder Regulator measure. " Neck measure. Breast Waist The Ornt't of Diagrani E. Draw a line in centre of back as from O to "W — square out from O to Y — from O to A, front bal- ance, 21 inches — square out from A to front line — now from A to C, one-half of shoulder measure, 12 inches, square C, line up to top — from C to B, one-half of A and C, six inches — square B line up to D. The distance which we now have from A, to B, is 18 inches. Now take one-fourth of A and C, or 3 inchc^ and apply this, from to I — then from D to J — also from D to K. Square these lines as shown in Diagi'am. Then mark from J to G, one-sixth of breast, which is the same amount, in this case, as from D to J, 3 inches — square out to Z. Having this, then mark F, in centre of O and D — square F line down — then E, in centre of D and F, and make a mark. Now bring the tape measure on B, and mark the back balance, 20 inches, up to * 1 at F line. Next apply the Arm-depth Measure — take one- half of the measure, 14 inches, and aj^ply this from K, down to centre of B and C lines, and make a sweep — then apply the same amount from * 1 at F line to centre of B and C, and make a sweep also, as shown in Frock Coat Diagram A. Now bring the sqtiare on centre line of back and draw a line out from L, through sweep lines to front — mark M, one-fourth of breast (or 4^ inches in this case) from line L, and square in to 2. Having this, then measure the space between C and F lines and mark * in centre at A line, (1^ inches from C,) — place the tape on this * and mark up back balance, 20 inches, to H, and we have the correct length of Back. Now sqiiare out from H, to I — from this line mark up on I, | inch, for spring- of back — place the ruler on mark made liy f inch, and draw a line down to N — then apply the measure for full length of coat — bring the tape on H, let it run down on centre line and mark oft" 44 inches — from this mark up to W, one inch, and square out to X. Having this, then bring the ruler on E, let it rest on the crossing of C M lines, 'and draw a line down to bottom of coat, as at 5. Now bring the ruler on 2, let it rest on crossing of A, and E^ lines, as at 3, and draw a line from 2, to 4. Then shape the back from H to I, from I to 2, as shown in Diagram — place the tape on I, at top line, let it run to bottom of back, and make a sweep fromW, 22 THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. to 4. Next bring the tape on D, and make a sweep from 5 to X, for bottom of front. Mark in from Q to P, 1^ inch, make a mark — now measnre from B to C, and bring one-third of the amount, tAvo inches, from B to R, and apply The Shoulder Re^nlntor. Bring tlie tape on R, let it run up to P, in a straight line, bring the amount on R again, and measnre np to S, at E line, full measure, 31| inches — square S line out by line B — from S to S 2, mark the same amount as from Q to P, 1^ inches, and square this line in. Mark up from line M to Q, \ inch, and draw a line to P. Having this, then finish the front part — measui'e out from O on top line, one-half of breast, 18 inches — from this i^oint, mark out to T, one-fourth of breast, 9 inches, and square this line down to bottom. Now mark from T to V, li inch— T to X, at bottom 2 inches in all cases and sizes — place the ruler on V and X, and draw a line from top to bottom. Next we commence and shape the front — from S 2 at E line we draw a gentle curved line for top of front shoulder to K line, as shown in Diagram — from crossing of J and K, draw a line for neck gorge out to Z. Then shape the arm scye, from S, at E line to M, to L, and up to P. Having this, then mark in from front line f inch to Z, and also the same amount in from T, which we make the point for collar. Now shape the front by Z, and all the rest as shown in Diagram L, and cut the pattern out — -but be careful, and notch front and back at A line as at 3, which point miist meet when the coat is joined. Now this completes the coat with sleeves. Diagram L Showing the same Draft, without Sleeves. Draft the pattei'n as before shown with sleeves, and when drafted, then mark down from L line to 6, one-sixth of breast, 3 inches — mark centre of B and E line, at shoulder seam, and draw a line down to 6, as shown by + lines in Diagram. All the rest is as before stated. Diagram M. Showing How to Draft the Cape for the Iiiver- ness Cape Coat. Place the front part of coat on the pattern paper, and draw neck and front by the coat. Bring the ruler on crossing of J, K, lines, let it rest in centre of S, S 2, at C line, and draw a line to Y. Next, bring the tape on K, measure down to U, full length of Cape, 31 inches — ^now j^lace the tape measure on J, make this point a pivot, and sweep from U to Y, and draw a corresponding line from U, to front, by a curved ruler, and finish all the rest as shown in Diagram. Diagram N, Showing the Draft of the so-called ''Three- Quarter Circle or Cape. This style of garments is worn by military men, and also by others, over Frock and Sack Coats. . The Draft. Draw a line from D to B — square out from D, to K, — mark from D to K, one- sixth of breast, 3 inches, and draw line down; now take the pattern of the coat, for which the Cape is intended, place the back on top line, as at K — then bring the front part to back, so that shoulder seam of coat will rest in a closing posi- tion, front shoulder point resting on K line, back at top line — B,D, line of coat running parallel with B, D, line of cape, and in that position draw a line in centre of back by the j)attern, as from K to Y 2. Shape the neck by the pattern as from K, to Z — and also from Z, down in front. Having this, then take the pattern off — mark down from D to J, 3 inches in all cases, and make this point a pivot. Next mark length of cape from K, to U, (say 31 inches). Bring the tape on point J, or pivot, and sweep from U, to Y 2, or centre of back, as shown in Diagram. Now draw a corresponding line from U to front, as in Inverness Cape, and cut the pat- tern out. Diagram 0. Showing the Draft of Collar. Draw a line from 1, to 3, — square uj) fi'om 1, to 2, — mark i;p from 1, to O, 1^ inches, and from 0, to 2, (say 2 inches). Now measure the neck of coat, 9 inches — bring 9 inches fi'om 1, to 3, — mark width of Collar fj-om 3, to 4, (say 2f inches) more or less — mark up in centre of 1, and 3 (say 1 inch) — ^then commence and shape the Collar from 1, to mark by 1 inch, to 3 — from 0, to 3 — and from 2 to 4, as shown in Diagram. Drafting the Sleeve. IMeasure the arm scye — bring f inch inore than \ of arm scye measure from S, E, line down below M, and make this the point for front sleeve seam, (as at Q, Diagram A). Also measure from K, to this mark, same as in frock or sack — note the measures down, and draft the Sleeve in the same manner as in frock or sack coats, as shown in Dia- gram E, with only one exception, and this is : — Measure the disfcince from M, to point of front Sleeve seam, on front part, and whatever the amount may be, apply this in the draft of Sleeve, as from A, to B, Diagram E. THE GUTTER AND GUIDE. 23 THE PATTERN SYSTEM. The System, ;is herein laid down, will be found the most simple and reliable method of drafting Ijatterns for the Ready-made Trade ever gotten up and presented to the trade. The difhculty gene- rally exjierienced by the Breast Measure System, whereby all sizes above 38 breast will be too large, and below 35 too small for the intended breast, is herein overcome. The principle on which the pattern system is based as laid down in the Actual Measurement, and the drafting is also ilhistrated by the saine Diagrams as therein given and explained. In the annexed "Cutting- Table of Proiiortioiis" will be found tlie principal measures for each size of breast, which we have to apply for the various points of Diagrams. The arrangement of figures in this Table are very simple, so that any Cutter can use it at once. The first line of figures give the breast from 24 to 48 ; the second line of figures the distance from A to B ; the third line the dis- tance from B to D ; the fourth line of figures the distance from D to L, or bottom of arm scye ; the fifth and sixth lines, the length of sleeve for each size of breast ; and will be fully illustrated in the next draft. Diagram A. SHOWING DRAFT OF A 36 SIZE FROCK PATTERN. Draw line from to — square from A to Y. Now apply the measures as given in the Cutting Table, opposite figure 18, or Breast measure, as follows : From A to B, 12 inches, square up to D — B to D, %)\ inches, and square out to K — D to L (or bottom of arm scye), 12^ inches — square from L, through mark to V, in front, and we have the principal lines for the pattern. Now mark from D to K, one-fourth of A and B, 3 inches — measure from B to K, 2()f inches, and bring this from B to H, for length of Back. Mai'k from B line to J, one-third of A and B, 4 inches — J to C, f inch in all sizes — square up from C to g — apply one-half of B and C (2f inches), from H to I, also from D to G, and square out to U — place the ruler on crossing of L and B lines, let it rest on H, and mark for N. Square out fi'om P, through N to M — draw a line from M to K — mark width of back as from 1 and 2— from A to W, one-eighth of A and H (more or less, according to fashion) — square out from W t > X — mark width of back from A to 4 — bring | inch above I, for spring of back. Now shape the l^ack, from H to I, from I to 2, from 2 to 1, and from 1 through 4, to bottom, according to fashion or fancy. Having this, then mark up from L on C line, one-fourth of breast (4^ inches), and from that point one-eighth of breast to S — bring the tape on ]M, and sweei^ out from S. Now, here I must say, that whenever the shoul- der seam of back is drawn higher up than ^th of breast at line(\ then deduct the amount from | of breast, and bring point S so much farther down — and so mee versa. Next bring the tape on point 1, and sweep from bottom line of back out to 6— apply i inch less than one fourth of A and B, (2| inches), from 4 to 5— mark | inch in all sizes between back and side body, at line L. Having this, then cut the back out and finish the side body by these points, 5 and f inches, in the same manner as shown in actual measurement. Diagram B. Then draw a line for width of side body, as from line L, to 7 to 9,— mark ^ inch in all sizes from 7 to 8, and shape side line of front, through 8 to bottom. Now finish the bottom line of side body as shown in actual measurement, — also the front shoulder and arm scye, as before shown in Diagram B. Mark Q one-fourth of L and P, from line L, up— apply the breast measure from L to T— square up to U— T to V, 2^ inches in all sizes — square down from V to bottom — mark ^ inch out fi-om this line to Y— U to Z, one- sixth of breast and ^ inch more— G to Z 2 one-half the amount. Having this, then finish the whole as shown in actual measurement in Diagrams A and B. Then measure upper and lower arm scye as before shown, and draft the sleeve by these mea- sures as in Diagrs. E andF. Apply the measures as given in the "Cutting Table," from centre of back to elbow, 20 inches, to O, or full length of sleeve, 32i inches— allow i inch for seams ; and square by L and T foi" bottom. 24 THE GUTTER AND GUIDE. Diagram J. SHOWING THE DRAFT OF In giving the necessary instruction for the draft of sack coats, we will take the 4()-inch breast, and by so doing we show the working of the Cutting Table more fully. The Orart. Draw line from O to AV— square out from A to Y— from A to B, 13^ inches— square up to D— from B to D, 21| inches— from D to L, 13^ inches- square out from L, through mark to V in fronts D to K, one-foui-th of A and B, 3^ inclies. Now measure from B to K, (22 inches), add | inch in -ill sizes of Sack coats, and bring the full amount (22f inches in this case), from B to H— square out to I— from B to J, one-third of A and B,(4| inches). J to C, f incli- square up from C to 8. Then take one-half of B and 0(2^^ inclies), add one seam and apply this from H to I, also from D to G, and square out to U. Now mark N, by H and cross- ing of L and B— square out from P, through N to M— draw a line from M to K. Next mark width of back or slioiilder drop. (See explanation of actual measurement). Take one-half of L and P, (more or less), fn^m N t > 2-:u.irk out fi'om 2, for SACK-COAT FATTERNS. - pitch of back (say | incli) — also mark | inch for spriiag of liack alcove I. Now shaj)e the back, from H to I, from I to 2, from 2 to 1. Next mark full length of coat from H to W, (say 32 inches), square out from W to front— mark width of l)ack from W to X, (say G| inches). Having this, then shape the side seam of back, from 1 to X, to fancy or fashion. Next bring one-fourth of breast (5 inches) from L up on line C — from this point one-eighth of breast (2|^ inches), to S. Now, whatever the shoulder seam of back may be above the mark of \ the lu'east, deduct the amount from S, and bring this point so much lower down. Sweep out from S, by M. Ajiply the breast measure from L to T, square up to U — T to V, 24- inches — square from \ to Y — draw a line by U and Y, to Z — U to Z one-sixth of breast and \ inch more — G to Z 2, one-half the amount. Now finish the front shoulder, arm scye, and neck, as shown in actual measurement — then shape the front to fashion or fancy. Next mark from 5 to 6 (say \\ inch), (see actual measurement), and shape the side of front part from 1 tlirough 6, to X, and all tlie rest as before shown in Diagram J. Diagram K. THE DRAFT OF OVER-COATS. The Drafting in thisDiagram is the same as in Diagram J, or body sack, and does not need any further explanation. The only insti-uctions which are needed we find in the following jioints : First: The Over Coat does need a longer back on top, as from L to H, than the Body Sack. The extra allowance which we nuike in under sack is f inch ; in over sack we make tlie allowauce, above B and K, $ incli. Second: The Over Coat needs more fullness on bottom, therefore we must make the allowance as shown in actual measurement, from X to 7. Tliird : By drafting an Over Coat liy the same breast as in Diagram J, 40 inches, we will have a pattern which will fit a man of 38 breast. This shows that the Over Coat does need two inches more in width than the undercoat, to tit the same person. All the rest of drafting is as shown in Diagram J, and as exj)lained in actual measurement. Diagram L- THE DRAFT OF IN\'ERNESS CAPE OVERCOAT. Draw a line from O to \V— square out from O to V— now mark (for a 36 breast) from O to A, 20i inches. Square out from A to front— A to C, 12 inches, square up to top line— C to B, one-half of A and C, 6 inches, square up to D— D to L, | inch more in all sizes than the amount given in the ' ' Cutting Table, "13 inches. Now take one-fourth of A and C (3 inches), and '>i-lng this from to I, also from D to J, and fn^m J to G, also from I) to K— square all these lines— mark F, in centre of O and D— E, in]centre of F and D— D to T, one-half breast ('!) inches) -T to A', I J inch in all sizes - mark M, one-fourth of l)reast from L — square in to 2. Now mark one-third of C and B, (2 inches) from C, otit, and make a mark — from this point measure up to K, (21i inches), and bring the amount from mark to H, length of back — square out, mark | inch above this line for spring of back — from G to S 2, one-third of G, and D. Having all these points, tlien finish the draft by these points, as shown in actual measurement. The Cape is di'afted in the same manner as be- fore shown, also the Sleeve and Collar, and do(^s not need further explanation. THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 25 piT ^' t|UTTING |ABLE OF f ROPORTIONS FOR Drafling Coat and Vest Patterns FOR THE READY-MADE TRADE. m CS to i 5 o -< s i Q> 1 •f-t p P o -^ a o QJ O C3 X! ft h4 o p o -/) P Length of Sleeve from centre of Back to El- bow. Full length of Sleeve from centre of Back to (),' Diagram E. * 1—! in P INCHES. INCHES. INCHES. INCHES. INCHES. INCHES. 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 8i 9i 9| lOi 101 Hi 12 12f 13i 13f 14i 14f 14 15i 16i 17f 18t IQi 20^ 21i 21f 22i 22i 23f 24 8f 9i Hi lit m 12f 13i 13f Hi 14f 1-H . 14 15 151 IGi 171 19i 20 20f m 21f 221 22f 23 21i 23i 25 26f 29 311 m 33i 34i 351 35f 3Gi PLATE XI THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 27 H J The System as liereiu given, is on the same plan as the Coat System, and will provide for all the various forms of tJie human hody which the Cuttei'may be called on to measure and draft for. The Measurement is the same as explained in the measurement of Coats — except that we must add length of Collar, full length of Vest in front, and also full length at hip — which will be fully shown in the measurement below, and also in the draft of Diagram P. Now, with these few lines of introduction and explanation of measurement, the Author advises all those who intend to study and practice the new principles, to follow out the instructions as herein given, and if you thus do, a trial Avill be sufficient to show that the System will do all which we have al)Ove stated, and you will become a hearty indorser of this valuable System. PLATE XI, The Meaiiiiireiiieiit. The measures, as we have before stated, are taken in the same manner as in Coats, and sujj- pose that they are as follows for a single-breasted Vest : 19l inches Back Balance. •20i " Front Balance. 26| " Armdeptli. 23^ " Shoulder measure. 7^ " Back AVaist measure. 31" " Shoulder Regulator. 14 " Length of Collar. ■26* " Fulllengthof Vest. 23* " Full length at hip. 36 " Breast. 31 " Waist. DIAGRAM P. The Draft of a Single-Breasted Vest. Draw line O, to O — square out from A, to Y — now notice front and back lialance, same as in Coat. (See Explanation of Shoulder Measure, page 11 ). Now take one-half of shoulder measure (Hi inches) and bring this from A, to B — from B, to C, one inch in all sizes — square Tip from C to D — apply front balance from C, to D (20* inches), and square out to U. Now apply back waist measure from A to E — then measure from E to B, divide this in four parts, and bring one part from A to F, (one inch). Now apply back waist measure again from F to G, and make a mark. Bring the tape measure on G, and apply back balance 19* inches, with \ inch added for seams, from G to H — square out to I. Having this, then take the distance from A to B, divide the amount in four equal jiarts, and apply one part, (2t inches, ) from H to I — then from D to J — also from D to K. Now apply the arm depth measure, take one-half (13i inches) and bring this from K to P, make a sweep line — then from II to P, and make a sweep line also. Bring the squar,^ on centre line of back, and draw a line from L tlirougli sweep at P, to V, in the same manner as Coat Diagram A. Having this line, then mark \\i) from line L to N, one-fourth of A and B— mark f inch up from I, for spring of back — place the ruler on this mark, and point N, and draw shoulder line of back. Tlie next line we must find is line M : Take one-half of A and B, (.H inches), and api)ly this from line C, to M, and square up — diaw a line from L and C to K. Now, having established all these points, we go on and apply "The Shoulder Regulator." Place the tape on G, let it run up in a direct line to R, top of back shoulder seam — bring the a- mount on B, and then up in a direct line to S, full length of measure, 31 inches, and make a mark— place the rule on S, let it rest on crossing of J K lines, and draw a line out. Having all these points and lines, we then com- mence and tinish the Back. Draw a line from H to L, through F, to bottom, for centre of back — then from H to I, or mark for spring of back — tinish the shoulder seam to R— then from R, fin- ish the arm scye to P, or side line of back and front, wliich line may be drawn to fancy (say centre of Mand C)— mark out from G, 1\ inch for seams and ease. Now commence, and draw side line from P, through mark at waist, to Z, at bottom— as shown in Diagram. Next hnish the Front : Bring one-half of In-east measure from L to T— from T to V, 2 inclies in all cases— square up from T to U, from Udraw a line to V, by which line we form the front line cf vests which shall button up very high. Having this, then apply the waist measure — ^^liring the Ikk'Iv waist measure on B, mark out to Y, one-half of waist, 15* inches, and allow for one .seam in front. Then apply the measure for length of vest :— take the tape, measure from D to J— place the amount on front shoulder point, and measui'e to A', length of collar, 14 inches— then to W, full length'of vest, 20* inches, and allow for steams- then to X, length'of hip, 23* inches, and allow for seams also. Having all these points, then shape the front— draw a line from \, through Y, to bottom, also a corresponding line for lap of button side- shape the point for collar, and draw a line for neck, from K line to V. Next draw a a line from P, through B, to X— also from X to AV— then shape bottom line of back, and cut the back out. Bring the back on top of front shoul- der ; let point I'rest on K J line, and in that po- sition, finish the front ann • scye, by the back— then shape the front shoulder from ami scve to K line.— and all the rest as shown in Dia- liiam P. and according to the fashion of the day. 28 THE GUTTER AND OUIDE. PLATE XII. DIAGRAM Q. Nhowiii^ the different i^tyleisi of Vest. In this Diagram we show the draft of tlie dif- ferent styles of Vests,— the Single Breasted, to button close iip to the neck, — the Double Breast- ed to button way up, — and also the Double Breasted with long rolling collar. Diagram Q is drafted in the same manner as shown in Diagram P ; and whatever the style may be, which the Cutter may wish to draft, the change must be in front, as from V, Y and W. We will show these changes by three Diagrams: DIAGRAM E. Single Breasted Yc-sf, fo button close i/jj to necTi. We suppose now, that we haA'e made the draft as in Diagram P, with the exception that the front line, from V to W, has to be drawn. Now commence and juark, from D to Q, one- third of breast, 6 inches — square out to Z. Hav- ing this, then shape the neck to front line at Z — from this i^oint draw front line to V, to Y, to W and we have the side for tlie button holes ; then draw a line outside for the button side, or lap, as in Diagi'am P. j\Iark in from front line at Z, to point of collar (say I inch) and the draft is fin- ished. DIAGRAM S. Sltoiciiiij (lie Drujt of iltc Double Breasted Vest, to button close tip to the neck. This style of A'est is drafted as shown in Dia- gram K. Draw front line, from Z to AY. Now draft the Lapel. Mark on toj), (say 2 inches), — at V line (say 2^ inches) — at Y line (say 2 inches, more or less) — and shape the Lapel, as shown in Diagram, according to fashion or fancy. DIAGRAM T. Showiiif/ the Draft of the Double Breasted Vest, with lour/ roUiiiff Collar. Mark length of Collar to measure or fancy — mark out from Y (say '2i inches) — at bottom (say 1| inch, more or less) — and draw a line by these marks — then draw a line down for neck — finish the bottom to fashion. Next draw a line for Buttcms, tV inch less than we have marked outside of Y and W, and hnish the rest as shown in Diagram. The Pattern System, DIAGRAM P. SHOWING THE DRAFT OF A 36-SIZE VEST PATTERN. Draw line to O — square out from A to Y. (See Cutting [Table of Proportions, page 25). Mark from A to B 12 inches — B to C, one inch in all sizes — square up to D — from B to D 20^ inches — square out to U — D to L, 12^ inches — square out from L, through mark to V — apply one-half of A and B, from line C, to M — square up from M. Now mark at waist, from A to F, i inch — from F. to G, or side line of Back, one-half breast, 9 inches. From C, measure up to D, (20i inches), and bring the amount from G to H, allow one seam above H, and square out to I- Then take one-fourth of A and B. 'S inches, and ajiply this from H to I — from D to K — I) to J — also from line L, to N. Mark up from I. f inches for spring of back — 'place the ruler on this mark, and N, and draw line for shoulder seam of back. Now take one-half of line L, and D, (6^ inches), add J inch in all cases to this ^, and bi'ing it from M to S — phice the ruler on L and K, and draw a line up, also from S to K, J, line. Now apply the breast measure from L to T — from T to V, 2 inches. Square up from T to U — from U draw a line to V. Mark length of front. This of course is regulated by fashion, and must be made accordingly. For a guide, we will say. bring ^d of breast (6 inches), i'rom Y to AN' — and one-sixth, oi' :? inches, from B to X, and draw the bottom line by these points — mark out from B, -J- inch less than one-half breast, (8-J inches). Having now ail these points, then commence and finish tlie di-ift Siiape centre of back from H to L, through F to bottom. Then from R to P — from P, through G, to Z. Now cut the back out and bring it on top of front shoulder, and finish as Vtefore stated in actual measurement. Draw arm scye to P — from P, finish side line to B, to X. Then draw line for liottom of back as shown in the Diagram. Next finish the neck, from J K lines to point of collar, then from V, through Y, to \V — and all the rest as shown in actual measurement. In regard to the draft of the different styles of Vests, as in Diagiams Q, 11. S and T, this is done in the same manner as before stated, and does not need further explanation. Having shown this draft of a 36 size, we will say that, providing the Cutter will use " T7/e Cutting Table of Proportions,''^ and follow the instruction as heivin given, he will jn'oduce a set of Patterns which are equal to any that he may order from pattern establishments. And bv this the Vest Svstem is ended. PLATE, XII Dia^Ji: Q. THE SELF-BALANCING PANTALOON SYSTEM. In the present improved Pantaloon System, which is introduced by these lines, the Anthor claims that he has brought out and developed in a condensed form the most Complete, Correct, and Simplified, Self-Eegulatixg Pantaloon System ever gotten up. In it the Cutter will lind the whole ground plan upon wliich true Pantaloon Cutting is based, and the only correct principles by which a correct Dra^t will l)e produced for all the various forms of the human body for which the Cutter may be called upon to provide a covering. The system provides for all the so-called slim bodied, straight-legged, bow-legged, knock-kneed, and pot-belly forms, and is fully illustrated by three Plates of Diagr ams, with full instruction how to draft. The Aiithor advises all to follow out the instruction as herein laid down in each lesson, if so, the System cannot fail, to give entii-e satisfaction to all who may use it. and FIGURE 3. ILLUSTRATION OF POINTS AND MEASUREMENT. The first important step toward successful Pan- taloon Cutting is, that we must have a correct measui'ement. We must know the exact length and dimensions of the form for which we are called upon to jorovide a covering. We must bear in mind, that unless the mea- sures are correct, the garment cut according to them cannot be correct. Therefore we say, too much care cannot be ta- ken when the tape measure is applied to the body. But before we apply the tape measure we should make it our rule and ascertain the follow- ing points : First: See that the pantaloons the customer wears are close up in fork, so they will not inter- fere with the tape, when applied from these points. Second: Ascertain the style in which your customer j)refers them ; then we find that most gentlemen have their own style and likings, in regard to height of waist and to the amount of material they prefer at difl'erent parts. Having done so, then we commence and mark our points as shown in Figure 3. First, make a mark on top of side seam, or, rather, where the waistband shall join the top of side seam, as at A. Having this point, then bring the arm of square flat against this mark ; let the other arm of square rest in front, as at D. Now, as the square reats in that position, being in a horizontal line with the body, or, in other words, level with the floor, then make a mark in front for top of fly line, as at D. Having these points, then we go on and show THE ]«EASUREME\T. Let A be the starting point — measiire from A to B, full length of side seam, say 41i, inches. Then from D, down in front of fly to bottom of inside seam as at C, say 41 inches. Next, place the tape measure close up in fork, let it run down to C, and take full length of Leg, say 31|^ inches. Then apply the tape around the bottom, as shown by E, and measure according to fancy or fashion, say 17 inches. Next measure the Knee, as shown by F, line, also according to fancy or fashion, say 17 inches. Tlie next measure is the Thigh, as shown by G. Now here we must sax, as that measure is intended to prove the Fork i^oints, we advise all Cutters to use the ut- most care, and have the measure correct, other- wise it would be best not to take it at all. Bring the tape between the legs, then close up in fork, and then around the non-dress side of leg in a straight line with fork in a close-fitting manner, so it will show the actual size of leg, say 21 inches. Next take the Seat measure, as shown by S. This measure should be taken over the most prominent part, and furthermore, moderate- ly tiglit, very much in the same way as you would take the Breast measure for a Coat — bring the tape around the body and note the amount, say 36 inches — next take the Hip measure as shown by H, line— and this should be taken around the most prominent part of Hip, say 34 inches — next take the Waist measure as shown by K, say 30 inches. The next and last measure is the Balance Mea- sure. Bring the tape between the legs, pull it up close in fork, let one end of the tape rest on A, 33 THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. and then bring the other end of the tape to the same point, as sliown by L lines, say 32 inches. NoTK : This nieasiire shonld be taken in a close-litting manner, and Avitli care. This concludes the nieasnienient, snninicd np as follows : \\\ inches Side length. 41 Front L h 3U Leo- U 17 Bottom measure 17 Knee 21 Thigh 3(i Seat 34 Hip 30 Waist u 32 Balance '• We have now taken tlie measurement. We will next turn our attention to the System, and to the figure which we have to cover My object in doing so is to show the fundamental princij^les nijon which the System is based and that it con- tains the different points and lines as most readi- ly foimd on the form, and also to show you these principles as distinguished from the jnlnciples of other systems. Cutters who give their attention and study to Pantaloon Cutting are in general very much divided in opinion as to which is the proper location for the base or construction line. N(.)w some cutters will say, 'draw your side line of front (as from O, to 0, Diagr U) and by this square out from l)ottom, fork, and top line, and finish the draft V)y those lines.' But this we find is entirely wrong and does not meet with the form of leg and body — it will shorten the bottom of inside seam f inch (as at J, Diagr U) bring the fork line 1 inch up, and lengthen the top of fly 1\ incli and therefore give openness to the legs, of 8 inches, which amount they will sjjread apart at 1)ottom when made up. Then again, some Cutters will say : mark out at fork line from side of front, \ of seat, and at bottom one-sixth of seat, then draAv your base line (as at K, F, line) and from this square lines at right angle. Now we must confess that this class of Cutters come very near to the point, Init it is true also, that this line must change from \ of seat, and does not hold good in all cases. Again, some Cutters claim that by applying \ of seat, from side line out to centre of fork, and at bot- tom \ of seat ont to centre of leg (as at line I and X) that this would be the only safe rule to follow and work ont the draft. Now here we must say. This will hold good in some cases, but not in all. But we admit now, that either of these lines could lie'made the base line, and by adopting certain modifications in one of them, the same re- sidt might be produced as in Diagram U. But if we take a glance at the figure, or form of body, (whicli is the main subject of our lesson), we will find that a line d.rawn from top of liy to the in- side of leg, (as at C, Figure 3), will be the most reliable and certain base line which we can either adopt or find — and this line we have in the draft of Diagram U. AVe will therefore set up the following points which we intend to prove in the first draft : 1st, We jtrove that L D is the most i»roper and relial)le base line. 2d, That this base line will bring the bottom of panfs at right angle or level" with the fioor. 3d, Tills l)ase line will show how far the side line has to be drawn in at liottom from the plumb line so that it will meet the form of leg. 4th, We prove the value of the front length measiire. 5th, We also prove the value of the thigh measure, if correctly taken and apjilied. PLATE XIII. SHOWING THE FUNDAMENTAL PRINCIPLES OF THE SYSTEM. Now liefore we show these principles I want it understood that this is not the System which I am to lay before you for daily' practice ; this we do in Diagram Y. Tlierefore, any Cutter who should not feel in- clined to investigate this matter may turn direct to Diagram V, where he will find the actual Sys- tem for daily practice. Dingrnin I'. Draw a perpendicular line on side as shown by dark line — square out to L. Tlien mark off side length from top to bottom 41^ inches — square out at bottom to X — mark out to D, one-half of seat measure 9 inches — also the same amount out on top to L. Now place a long ruler on L and D, and draw a line down, and we have our base line, which w ill meet with the form, as from D to C, Figure 3 — and this will prove our 1st point which we have set up. Then mark from D to G, leg- measure 31i inches— G to C, one-fourth of seat, A.\ inches — square in from C to B — mark from D to O one-third of bottom measure, 5f inches. Now bring ruler on O and B and draw a line as from O to and we have the actual side line of front part— and by this we prove our 3d point, showing that the side line is drawn 3f inches from the plumb line at bottom— and furthermore, PLATE, XIII Rf^^s o Bf Y T D IT :e tT^- THE CUTTER AXD GUIDE. 33 sliould we square oiir bottom and top by this line it would shorten the inside seam at D ^ inch and lengthen the top at L 1^ inch. Having sliown these points we go on and mark in from C to E one-fourth of waist 3f inches — mark F iii centi'e of O and I), then bring rulei' on these l^oints and draw a line from K through E to F and we have the line, wliich, when the pants are made up, will fall directly over the knee and rest upon the instep. Now as we have drawn this line it will i^rove at once that it does not meet with \ of set at fork line as above stated by some Cutters, and only does when the waist is the same amount as seat measure. Having shown this, then mark one-fourtli of bottom measure 4^ inch- es from F to J. Then measure from O to J and bring \ inch more than one-half out from O to U — next mark centre of U and D as shown by * — bring the tape on * and sweep out from G to S, and also into T. Having this then mark the fork points, bring one-eighth of seat 2^ inches, from Ct to H, and mark N in centre — from N, mark out one-eight of Seat to S, which we make the point for underside or back. Now mark centre of Hand S as shown liy word ^^Cc/ifre,''' and draw a plumb line down to X, wliich is now the actual centre point of Fork between front and back — from this centre point mark in one-third of seat, G inches, to T. and we are prepared to prove those points by the Thigh measure, which we find calls for 21 inches. Take one-third of this measure, 7 inches, and apply it as follows : Measure from T to H, oj inches, bring the amount, o^ inches, on N, and extend the tape out to S, and we will find the whole amount which we now liave is li inches, or ^ inch more than one-third Thigh, and being allowance for seams. Tliis will show* that the points as already estab- lished l)y seat measure does correspond with the Thigh measure. But here I must say, that, whenever a dispro-' portion should exist between the Thigh and Seat measure, then divide the difference and take tlie centre between them. For instance, if these points T, H, N, S, as established by Seat, should be as above li inches, and the Thigh measure should call for 24 inches, one- third of which would be with i incli allowance for seams, 8i inches — here we would have one inch more Thigh than Seat for those points, whicli we would apply as follows : "We would take i inch and add J inch to II, and i inch to S, which points we bring that amount furtlier out, and draw our fork lines by those points. This includes also cases in re- veise where the Thigh is less than Seat; mark one- half tlie ditfereuce in from H and S, and draw the fork lines by these points. ISTow this will prove our 5th point, the Value of the Thigh measure. But this measure will show more than this, as above stated. If we would apply the remaining two-thirds of Thigh from those points where we have applied the one-third for fork points, say one-third or 7 inches from N to 2 — then from 2 to side line of front and back again to T, we ^^•ill have the two-thirds and If inches more, or in all 15| inches. Now add one-third and 4- inch of fork points to this and we have the full Tliigli measure and 2^ inches more for seams and ease for the wearer. This, of course, is not necessary that we must apply the full Thigh. The princi- pal point is at fork, where the points established by Seat should correspond with the one-third Thigh. Having explained this more in length tlian we intended to do we go on and finish the draft. Draw aline from T to U, — also from J to ^ inch inside of H. Then find the Knee line, apply one- half of leg measure 15f inches from D up, and make a mark ; from this mark bring 2^ inches in all cases up to Knee line, and square across. Now apply one-fourth of Knee measure 4^ inches from '■• at T, U, line out to V, and make a mark — from this mark V apply one-lialf Knee measure into AV, and allow i iilch for seams at this point, and make a mark. Having the.se points, then apply one-fourtli of waist measure, 3f inches, from K to M and make a mark — then from K to L, and allow one seam at that point. Next finish tlie top line — We have drawn a square line from O to L, but this is not what we call the top line of front ; this we must now find. Apply the front length measure, 41 inches in the measurement, from D to L, and make a mark. Having this, then place the ruler on M, top of side lengtli, let it rest on L, and draw top line out — and by this we prove our 4th point, the value of front length measure. Now, as we have all these points, we go on and finish the front — shape the fly line for nou-dress side from L to H — then from H, draw a gentle curved line to Y, or mark made liy Knee measure, then to J at bottom — mark out one inch from II to I — then shape the fly line of dress side from L to I, and from I draw a gentle curved line down, as shown in Diagram. Next finish tlie side line from M to B, to A, through W, to bot- tom at O — also shape the bottom according to fancy or fashion, and the whole as shown in Diagram U — and our first Draft is finished. In regard to the .shaping of side line below A. this is not absolutely necessary, and may be 34 THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. left straight from A to O. This is only a matter of taste, and the Cutter may choose for himself ■\vhicli plan he will adopt. But in the tio-ht-titting pants, I])refer the shap- ing of the side line to the lorni of the leg. Now, as we have shown the ground plan of the System, and the working of tlie different mea- sures in the draft, and also have proved our points as set up in the introduction of Diagram U, we are ready to take up our next diagram and show how to draft direct to the material, and lay before you the System for daily practice. PL.ATE XIV. Diagram V. Draw a line along the edge of the material, as rej)resented by O O line — but, if possible, then draw tins line one inch from the edge at bottom so that the inside seam of leg will not be too much on the bias. By this line square out to M — and we now proceed by tlip same measures as given in Diagram U. Measure from top or M line down to O, side length, and allow one seam for toj), {41| inches) — from to A, length of leg, and one seam ( 31 J inches) — A to B, one-fourth of seat measure, [\\ inches ) — bring the square on side line, angle resting on B, and make a mark at C — B to C, one-half seat, and i inch in all cases. (9^ inches). Then mark out at bottom, O to D, one-third of bottom measure, 5f inches. (Now here I must say, whenever the bottom is more than one-half seat, as will lie the case in large spring bottoms, then in all such ca- ses take one-third of seat fiom O to D). Having tliose points, then bring tlic ruler onDandO, and draw a line from L, through C. to D, which is now the construction line, by whicli we square all the horizontal lines across — i)lace the square on this line, let arm rest on mark made by side length at O, and transfer the liottom line through D, to J — then place the square on construction line at C, let arm rest on B, and draw a line from B to C. Now mark from C to E, one-l'ourtli of waist, Hf inches — mark F in centre of ( ) and D — bring ruler on F and E. and diaw a line from K through E to F. Then apjily onc-loiirth of bot- tom measure from F to .1, and make a maik. Next measure from () t(i .1, take one-half of the amount, add \ inch in all cases, and In'ing this from to U — mark centre of U and D and make a mark as shown by *. Then ap])]y the tape measure from D, mark up one-half leg measure and make a mark — then to G, length of leg, and allo\v \ inch for seam — then to L, front length measure, and allow one seam, (41^ inches). Then mark one-fourth of waist, BJ inches, from K to M — the same amount from K to L, and allow one seam at that point. Now i)lace the luler on to^i of side seam, as at M, let it rest on L, and draw top line frtim L, through ]\I, to (_) — next place the ta])e cm * in centre of U and D, and sweep from (t to S and T. Having this line then mark the fork point — from G to H, one-eighth of Seat 2^ inches, and mark N in centre — then apply one- eighth of Seat, from N to S, and mark I in cen- tre — from centre at I mark in to T, one-third of Seat, 6 inches, and make a mark. Then prove these points by the Thigh measure — take one- third of Thigh, 7 inches, measure from T to H — bring the amount on N and measure to S, and allow i inch for seams, 7i inches — (See Diagram r.) Now draw a line from T to U, which line we make the centre of leg. Next draw a line \ inch inside of H down to J. Di aw knee line 2^ inches above maikmade l)y one-half leg measure. INIark out from * at T U line to V, one-fourth of knee measure, 4^ inches — from V mark in to AA", one- half of knee, and allow half inch for seams, 9 inches. Having all these points, then com- mence and hnish the front — draw tly line frcm mark at waist to centi'e of C and G, then curve out to H — fi'om H draw a gentle curved line through \ to bottom. Now mark out from H to I, one inch, and by this we form the Hy and leg seam for dress side — draw a corresponding line f rom L to I, (or one inch) and then down, as shown in Diagram. Then finish the side line from ;M through B to A, through W to bottom- also finish the bottom as shown in Diagram, and tlie whole according to fancy or fashion. Now (Jut the front out, and this brings us to The Dral'l oC I iiints. The first tiling which is necessary : Have the underside stretched from V to S, so they will cor- respond with the lengtli of front part. Now whatever the amount may be which we have to stretch on the inside seam between these points, the same amount must be stretched also on the outside seam from W, to sweep line at A. Then below the knee (say 5 inches below knee line) the underside should lie shrunk in, equal on both sides. Next, have the front stretched from bottom to 36 THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. Avithin 5 inches of knee line, of an equal amount on botli sides (say f inches more or less.) IS^ow -wiien joined, and the seams pressed out, then liave tlie legs folded so that K, F, line will form Uie crease in front, ;ind lune tliem pressed to the form of the leg. The back should lie sliiunk in from the knee np to fork line — below the knee they should form the calf of leg, and below this point the front should be brought out so it will form the necessary spring ou bottom of whatever amount the fashion may call for. The Cutter will tind that 1)y so doing all the loose clotli ill those places are taken away, and a nice sniooth-titting pants will be produced. We there- fore say once more, too much care cannot be taken l\v the tailor, to have the pants properly joined and pressed, because tlie graceful appear- ance of the pants when on the customer will de- pend in a great measure on the making up. Diagram W. SHOWING now TO PRODUCE A PAIR OF PANTS FOR A CORPULENT IMAN. This Diagram will show the whole working of the System. The changes wliich we find at point D and E are nuide according to the requirement of the form — otherwise the drafting is the same as in Diagram V. The piincipal part is here as in all othci- -cases — a corrcrf iiicasnri'iiwiif ; and if so, a good fitting- pants will be produced, which will giv-e satisfac- titm to both Customer and Cutter. The measures are taken in the same manner as show n in Figure 3, and as ])efore explained. We suppose now the figure will give tlu^ follow- ing nu.^asure : 43 iuclies side length. 44Jr " front '' 31 " leg 19 " bottom measure. 20 " knee 27 " thiuh 44 " seat 40 " hip 46 4()i waist l)alance Tlae Miaft, Di'aw a line on edge of materi;d — make a mark f inch below the top end of cloth and let this lie the starting point. Pring the tajie on this mark, and mark oft' side length, and \ inch more, to 0, 43^ inches — from 0, to A, leg measure and one seam, 31i inches — A, to B, one-fourth seat — B, to C, one-half seat and \ inch, llj inches — from 0, to D, one-third of bottom measure — mark F, in cen- tre of O, and D — F, to J, one-fourth bottom. Ha\ing these points, then we must draw the con- struction line as from L to D — but before we can do so, we must consider that this class of men will need more openness of legs, than the so-called slim form, or in other words his feet Avheii in natural standing position will Ije more apart. It is therefore necessary that the amount is noticed when the measures are taken. AVe supjiose now that this figure will require l^ inches — take one- half t)f the amoinit, or f inches, and mark it out from D to D D, and we have the correct point by which we must draw our construction line — place the ruler on C and D 1), and draw a line from L through C, to l)ottom — transfer the side length, by placing the square on construction line, from O to J, same as in Diagram Y — also square out from C to B.. Next we must find point E. Now here we must make a change fr.jm the slim form — you will remember, that we have applied i Avaist from C to E, in Diagram \ — which is correct in all cases where the waist is less than seat. But here we have 2 inches more waist than seat, and there- fore we ax)ply one-fourth of waist, 5| inches, from B to E, and this point is established according to the ff)rm of body. We jiiust now say, that these two points are the only changes in the wliole draft from Diagram \, except the measures which l)ring the form. Place the ruler on E and F, anil draw a line from K, down. Next ajiply the leg and front measure — bring the ta}»e on D D, mark up 2i inches more than one-lialf leg to knee line, then to G, length of legs and one seam — then to L, length of front, and one seam, 44f inches, and make a mark — measure width of bottom as from O to J, take one-half and \ inch more, and bring this from O to U — mark centre of U and D D — bring the tape on this point, and sweep from G to S, and T. Mark out from G to II, one-eight of seat, and mark N in centre — then one-eight seat, from N to S, mark I, in centre — from I toT, one-third of seat. Now prove these points by thigh ineasuie, as before stated in Diagrams U and Y— draw a line from T to U — also from H to J — mark out from * to Y, one-fourth knee measure — then from A', one-half of knee and .V inch more for seams, to AY. Next apply oiie-fourrh of waist from K to M — also the same amount from K to L, and allow one seam — draw top line, from side length to mark made by front length, as from M to L. Having all these jioints, then ap]ily the hip THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 37 measure, Avliich we iind is 1 iucli more than seat, and which shows that the belly is so much furth- er out at that jjoint of measure than at seat line. Now take this 1 inch and mark it out from con- struction line to fly as from '* to*, and we are pre- pared to finish the front — draw the fly line from L, through *, to H, from II, through V, to J — also a corresponding line for dress side as before shown. Then draw side line from M, through B, to A, through "\V, to bottom, as shown in Diagram \ , and cut the front out. TJie Kraft ©r I iMlorside. Place tlie fronts on the cloth in a position as economical as possible, and then extend the lines from front part as before stated in Diagram Y. Sweep out from j\I to R, by 0, at bottom. Hav- ing this, then ai)i>ly the bottom measure from U to J, bring the amount on U, and mark out to X, one-half bottom, ^\ inches ; then measure the full front, J to 0, bring this on X. and measure in to Y, full V)Ottom, and allow 1 inch more for seam. Then apply the knee measure from * at U T line to Y, in the same manner as bottom. Always bring the allowance for seams on the out- side line of leg. iSText mark out on sweep line at fork, from N to S, one-eighth of seat— bring an- gle of square on E, let arm rest on N, and draw a line up to P, which point is one-fourth of waist from E. Now draw a line from N, through P to Q. Mark out from to R, one-sixth of waist, or 3| inches — bring the tape on N, and make a sweep from O to Q, — draw a straight line from R to Q, and shape the top of underside. Now the next thing must I)e to prove point R l)j' the balance measure, which is 40^ inches — apply the tape from H to M, then from S to R, full measure, and 1^ inches allowance for seams as before explained in Diagram \ . Next apply the hip measure from fly line in centre of C and L to side line of front, bring the amount on P, and then across to side line of under side as be- fore stated, and allow 2 inches more than one- half hip, 24f inches. Next apply the seat meas- ure from C to Z, in the same manner, and allow 2 inches for seams and ease. Having this, then finish the under side, as in Di- agram Y, from centre of C and G, out to S — from S to Y, down to X, then from R, through mark of hip and seat to AY, and down to Y. Also iin- isli the bottom by \ inch below bottom line at X and Y. Sweep from A, by * at knee line, out to side seam of under side. Then apply the waist measure, L to M, then from Q to R, which we And is \\ inches more thaji one-half of waist and is the allowance needed for seams. This shows that the Y, which we have taken out in back of Dia- gram Y, is not needed in this draft. Now, as we have flnished our underside, cut it out and notch all these jioints Y, W, and A as before stated, and the draft of Diagram W is finished. PLATE Diagram XV. X. SHOWING THE DRAFT OF THE SO-CALLED BOW-LEGGED FORM. This class of men, when in natural j)osition will stand with heels close together, but from there the legs will si:)read apart, so that a space along the inside of legs will be seen, which is of more or less extent — but whatever it may be, we iind the largest amount between the knees. To meet the requirement of the form, and to provide a covering which will give full satisfaction to cut- ter and customer, it is necessary that certain changes have to be made in the draft, from the regular straight form of leg ; and these changes we intend to show in this Diagram. The mea- surement is the same as Figure 3. But as we in- tend to explain the whole, and by so doing make sure work, we must therefore add one more mea- sure, by which we ascertain the real amount which we have to apply in the draft. This mea- sure is very simple, but sure. Let the customer stand in natural position, with heels close to each other, then measure between the legs from knee to knee, (say 4 inches), and we have the true guide to draft by. We therefore say, that any other plan which the cutter may have, or that he may adopt with- out this measure, is only guesswork and un- certain. The measures we suppose are as follows : 41 inches side length. 41 '• front " 31 leg 17 bottom measure. IS knee 21 thigh " 86 seat " 33i hip " 31 waist ' ' 32 balance "' 4 .spread of knees. The Draft. Draw a line one inch from the edge of nuiterial which represents line, and square out to M, 38 THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. from tliis line to O, side lenu'tli and one seam — O to A, leg and one seam — A to B, one- fourth seat — B to 0, onedialf seat, and one seam — O to I), one-tliird bottom — F in centre of O and D — draA\' line from L, tlirongh C! to D — square out by this line from I) to O, and then draw line to J — also square from C to 13 — mark up from D, \ leg and 2i incli to knee line — then to G, length of leg and one seam — then to L, front length, and one seam — C to E, one-fourth waist — draw line from K, thiough E to P — F to J, one- fourtli bottom — measure from O to J. take one- half and \ inch more and bring it from O to U, — mark centre of U and D — bring tape on this mark, and sweej) out from G to S. and in to T — G to II, one-eight of seat, N in centre — from N to S, one- eight^of seat, I in centie — from I to T, one-third of seat — prove these points liy thigh measure as before stated — draw line from T to U — also draw knee line — mark one-fourth of waist from K to M — then from K to L, and allow one seam .at that point — then draw top line from L to M, to 0. Having all these points and lines; then comes the changes which we must make to meet the form of leg. The spread of knees is 4 Inches, which gives 2 inches for each side of leg. ■ Kow take these 2 inches, and a[)ply one-half or] inch, from T U line to 1, at knee, and make a mark — also the s.inie amount fi'om K F line in to 2, and make a mark. Having these points, then place the ruler on T, and 1, and draw a line to knee, then from 1 at knee to F, as shown by dark line. Next draw a line from K to 2, then from 2 to F. and we have these lines in harmony with the form of leg. Next apply the knee measure, take one- fourth, (4^ inches) and bring this out from 1 to V — from \ , mark in one-half of knee, and \ inch more for seams to W. Now, here we must say to the inexperienced Cutter, that by apply- ing one-half of the amount of spread to the front, the other ludf will be taken off by the under side or back. Having estalilished these points, we are ready to tiuLsh the front. Draw tly line from L to H, also from L to I — then from H, through V to X, as shown in Diagram. Next draAv side line from M, tlirough B, through "\^" to O. Also finish the l)ottom and the whole as .shown in Diagram, and cut the front out. The Mraft of I'lulep wade. Place the front on toj) of matei'ial — make a sweep by O, at bottom, from O, at top, to R — extend the lines at fork, knee and bottom — apply the liottom measure as shown in Diagram Y, and W. Also the knee measure, from ] to V, Ining the amount on 1 — and mark off one-half of knee to \ — then from V to AV, of front, bring the anumnt on V, and mark out full measure and one inch more for seains to AV — next place the angle of square on E, at dark line, let arm rest on N, and mark u]) to P, one-fourth of waist — bring ruler on N and P, and draw back line of under- side — sweep by N, from () to Q, — mark out from O to P, one-sixth of waist, and finish the top of back — then prove point R, by balance mea- sure, as before explained — apply hip and seat measure as before stated, and allow 2 inches more for seams and ease. Having all these points, then finish the draft by drawing a line out to S, from S to A", to X — then from R, through liip, and seat, to AV, and tlown to Y — mark \ inch be- low X and Y, and finish the bottom. Next apply the waist measure from L to M, then from Q ro R, allow li inches for seams, and the bal- ance take out bv a A' in back. Diagram Y. SHOWING THE DRAFT OF THE SO-CLVLLED KNOCK-KNEE STRFCTURES. This is a class of men whose legs will touch closely all along the thighs to the knee, but then (■((Uimence and spread gradually apart down to the feet, at which place we may find a space of 4 to (■) inches, and in some cases even more. This shows to us that some certain (dianges from the regular straight-legged forms must be made ; but how these changes have to be made so that they will meet the requirement of the they need exactly the same shape of body and leg down to tlie knee, as (he straight form, but from the knee down they diflVr from each other — which proves that whatever change the form may need, it must be between knee and feet. It is now a clear fact, that a certain amount must be bi'oughtin from J, U, Fand O, at bottom. But the question may arise, what is the certain amount which will hold good in all cases. AVe form and prove satisfactory, is a question which answer, take a measure that will show you the we should not be too hasty to decide, and, es- disproportion of the feet, and then I will tell ])ecially, not before we have fully investigated you the certain amount. Tlierefore, let the cus- the form. tomer stand in natural position with knees close Now, when we investigate the form, we find together, and when so, then measure from heel to PLATE, XV 2 )/^ THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 39 heel, (say 4 inches)— and tlie certain amonnt whicli we must apply at these points is 1 inch. The measurement is as shown on Figure 3, say: 42 inches side length. 4U front '^ 32 leg " 17 Ixjttom measure. 17 knee 22 thigh 38 seat " 34 hip 32 waist •' 32f balance '' 4 spread of heels. The Draft. All tlie main points are exactly the same as in Diagram \ — scpiare out to j\I — from this line to O, side length — to A, leg measure — A to B, one-fourth of seat — B to C, one-half seat and I inch added— to D, one-third bottom, F in centre — F to J, one-fourth of bottom — draw line by D, and C to L — square bottom by this line out to O — also out to B — measure 2\ in- ches more than one-half leg to V — full length of leg and \ inch to G — full front length to L — C to E, one-fourth of waist, and draw a line by F E, to K— one-half bottom and \ inch from O to U — - in centre of D and U — bring tape on * and s^v'eep out from G to S — mai-k fork points as before stated, G to II, one-eiglit seat, N in centre, from jV to S, one-eight, and mark cen- tre i)oint of fork — from this point mark one- third of seat to T — prove fcjrk points by thigh measure as befoi'e stated — from K to M, one- fourth waist, also one-fourth to L, and allow for one seam — draw top line from Lto M, to O — then from T to U — also from H to J. Having all these points, then we are prepa- red to cliange the bottom lines so they will meet with tlie form of leg. The measure we have talven is 4 inches, which gives 2 inches for each leg. Of these 2 inches, we apply one-half to the front, and by so doing, the other half is taken off from the Inick or underside. Nov.- take the one inch, mark it in from J to J 2, also to U 2, F 2, and O 2, and we have the points wliich correspond witli the form — then draw lines fi-om knee down to these X)oints, as shown by dark lines, by wliicli we finish the l)ot- tom of front i)art. Having this, tlipu measure out from T V line, one-fourth of kn<:'e to V, and from this point one-half of knee to W, and idlow for seams — and we are ready to finish the front. Draw the lly line from L to H, and from H, shape inside line of leg through \, to J 2 — then from L to I, and down to V. Tlien from M, through B to A, through W to bottom at 2, as shown in Dia- gram. Also linisli bottom, and cut the front out. Draff I ncler shlc. Place the front on the cloth, sweep by O 2, from O to R, also extend the other lines from front across. Next apply the bottom measure- measure from U 2, to J 2, or inside line of front, bring the amount on U 2, and mark out to X, one-half of bottom, then apply the tape from J 2, to O 2, bring the amount on X, and measure to Y, full bottom, and alloAv 1 inch for seams. Next apply the knee measure, from T U line to V, bring the amount on this point again, and mark out to Y, one-half of knee measure— then from Y to side line of front, bring the amount on Y of underside, and mark out to W, full knee, and allow for seams. Now place the angle of square on E, let arm rest on N, and mark up to P, one-fourth of waist— draw back line from N, through P to Q— sweep by N, from O, to Q— mark out from O to R, one-sixth of waist. Then prove this point by balance measure, as before stated— apply the hip and seat measure, and al- low for seams and ease, as in Diagram Y. Having all these points, then shape the back down to S, from S to A', to bottom of X— also from R, through hip and seat to W, down to Y, in the manner as before shown. Now mark I inch below X and Y, and finish the bottom of underside, and all the rest as ex- plained in Diagram Y. The Cutter will find that we have drawn our l)ottcmi out on side line of leg just 2 inches, which the measure calls for. Now as the draft is hnished, then cut the back out, and notch all the points as before stated. Diagram Z. The Shape of Waisiband. It is not absolutely necessary tlmt the waist- band must be drafted as herein given— but we must sav, tliat if this plan is adopted, the Cutter will be i)leased with the result. Then by draw- inu- a curved line on bottom the top part will sin'ead more from the body, and therefore give more ease and comfort to the wearer. We therefore give a guide to the student, by wddch he may produce it. Draw a line from O to A— mark from A to B, waist measure, and allow one seam— mark down from B, one inch— then draw a curved line from A to B. Now mark up from A to C (say 2 inch- es)— then from D to E, same amount— then in back (say U inches)— and draw top line by these points. Now cut the waistband out, liave the parts made up as before stated, and the work is ENDED. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS iiiiiiiiniiiiiiii:iiiiiiiiiiiliiliili'lli||||| Ml nil llllllillllll III: 014 082 746 Hollinger Corp. pH 8.5